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N  I  C  H  O  L  S  f )  N  ’  S 

i- 

CAMBRIAN 

T  R  A  V  E  L  L  E  R’  S  GUIDE, 

IN  EVERY  DIRECTION; 


CONTAINING 

REMARKS  MADE  DURING  MANY  EXCURSIONS 


IN  THE 

of  CBaltss, 


AUGMENTED  BY 


EXTRACTS  FROM  THE  BEST  WRITERS. 


THIRD  EDITION, 

REVISED  AND  CORRECTED  BY  HIS  SON, 

THE  REV.  EMILIES  NICHOLSON, 

INCUMBENT  OF  MINSTERLEY,  SALOP. 


LONDON : 

PRINTED  FOR 

LONGMAN,  ORME,  BROWN,  GREEN,  &  LONGMANS, 


PATERNOSTER-ROW. 

1840. 


London  : 

Printed  by  A.  Spottiswoode, 
New-  Street-  Square. 


THE  EDITOR’S  PREFACE. 


In  addition  to  the  accompanying  explanatory  observations  by  the  Author, 
it  is  expedient  to  state,  that  subsequently  to  bis  lamented  decease,  the 

Cambrian  Traveller’s  Guide”  remained  out  of  print  upwards  of  ten 
years.  During  this  period  considerable  improvements  had  occurred,  and 
a  revision  of  the  copy  prepared  by  the  author  for  the  third  edition  became 
requisite.  This  his  son  has  with  diffidence  undertaken,  anxious  to  realize 
the  wish  of  his  departed  parent,  that  the  work  should  reappear,  with  his 
own  emendations,  in  a  form  more  condensed.  With  a  view  to  com¬ 
pression,  the  heavy  articles  relative  to  the  bordering  towns  have  been 
omitted,  there  being  now  Guides  of  accuracy  and  merit  descriptive  of 
Chester,  Shrewsbury,  Ludlow,  Worcester,  Hereford,  Gloucester,  Chel¬ 
tenham,  and  Bristol.  By  this  omission,  which  alone  interferes  with  the 
Author’s  arrangement,  an  opportunity  is  gained  of  enlarging  the  articles 
strictly  AV’elsh,  recommending  as  auxiliaries,  according  to  the  route  selected, 
those  local  guides,  as  the  case  may  require.  During  a  recent  tour  in  Wales, 
the  editor  embodied  in  these  pages  considerable  local  information,  and  much 
is  inserted  of  later  date  than  is  contained  in  any  topographical  work.  The 
three  Indexes  of  the  second  edition  he  has  included  in  one,  in  which  is 
contained  a  great  accession  of  references  relative  to  proprietors,  residents, 
and  other  subjects.  With  regard  to  the  alterations  in  the  orthography  of 
proper  names,  general  style,  and  other  points  of  mere  taste,  the  reader  may 
judge  of  their  respective  merits  by  comparing  this  with  former  editions. 
Various  notices  are  thrown  into  most  of  the  leading  articles,  which  to  the 
friend  of  the  angle  will  doubtless  prove  acceptable.  As  far  as  his  nu¬ 
merous  professional  avocations  would  permit,  to  the  utmost  in  his  power 
he  has  endeavoured  to  render  this  work  worthy  of  the  public  approval. 
Should  he  fail  in  doing  so,  he  will  have  at  least  the  pleasing  reflection  of 
having  attempted  to  fulfil  the  express  desire  of  the  lamented  Author.  As 
others  have  availed  themselves  freely  of  this  work,  the  Editor  has  occa¬ 
sionally  taken  advantage  of  theirs.  The  task  of  conveying  the  same  ideas 
in  other  words  when  already  happily  expressed,  is  hut  an  unprofitable 
employment:  many  passages  from  recent  writers  are  therefore  quoted 
which  it  would  have  been  tedious  to  acknowledge. 

To  the  contemplative  intelligent  tourist  Wales  affords  ample  subjects  of 
interest,  whether  he  considers  its  picturesque,  geological,  or  botanical  pecu¬ 
liarities.  The  scenery  of  AVales  is  eminently  attractive,  affording  every 
variety  from  the  lowly  valley  adorned  by  the  serpentine  mazes  of  the  silver 
stream,  to  the  alpine  range  which  mingles  its  hoary  summit  with  the  clouds 
and  associates  the  mind  with  the  regions  of  that  pure  ethereal  where  reigns 

A  2 


IV 


THE  EDITOR’S  PREFACE. 


the  great  Artificer  whose  is  this  wondrous  frame  !  himself  how  wondrous 
then  \  ”  The  geology  of  this  principality  also  forms  a  field  of  observation 
not  less  attractive  to  the  mind  which  delights^  with  a  Murchison,  to  specu¬ 
late  on  the  origin  and  direction  of  those  amazing  forces  which  have  left  their 
traces  on  the  surface  of  the  globe,  to  the  admirable  economy  of  which  we  are 
indebted  for  those  ever-changing  varieties  of  the  subhme  and  beautiful  de¬ 
scribed  in  the  following  pages.  The  Flora  of  Cambria  likewise  presents  to 
the  botanist  powerful  attractions,  especially  in  the  elevated  wilds  of  Snow¬ 
donia,  and  the  island  of  Anglesea,  the  latter  of  which  is  said  to  yield  a 
greater  variety  of  plants  than  some  counties  in  Britain  of  much  larger  ex¬ 
tent.  The  lover  of  mechanical  and  architectural  ingenuity  wdll  be  agreeably 
surprised  to  behold  works  of  stupendous  magnitude,  and  mansions  of 
the  most  elegant  structure  by  artists  of  first-rate  talent  and  taste.  Nor 
will  the  antiquarian  tread  those  mighty  footsteps,  the  caerau,  carneddau,  and 
castellated  fortresses  of  Roman,  Saxon,  or  Norman  invaders,  without  a  sens¬ 
ation  of  awe,  while  contemplating  the  scattered  fragments  of  olden  time,  or 
calling  to  remembrance  those  despotic  powers  who  once  deluged  the  fastnesses 
of  Cambria  with  the  blood  of  her  brave  patriotic  sons.  Equally  wall  the  accu¬ 
rate  observer  of  national  character  be  struck  with  the  native  simplicity,  agree¬ 
able  rusticity,  and  habitual  caution,  arising  from  painful  reminiscences,  of  the 
peasantry;  while  the  nobility  and  gentry  are  remarkable  for  their  refinement, 
hospitality,  and  patriotism.  The  moralist  will  notice  with  a  glow  of  satis¬ 
faction,  the  marked  difference  which  subsists  between  the  dissolute  habits 
of  the  English  and  the  temperate  socialities  of  Wales.  To  the  philologist 
a  wide  field  of  investigation  is  opened  in  the  analysis  of  the  Welsh 
language,  which  in  its  structure  and  affinities  bears  evidences  of  the  most 
remote  antiquity.  W e  have  only  to  attend  some  of  the  Eisteddvodau 
or  Cymreigyddion  anniversaries,  to  witness  the  spirit-stirring  awen  or 
poetical  genius  of  the  Welsh,  exemplified  in  their  extemporaneous  flights, 
after  the  manner  of  the  Italian  improvisatore.  During  these  bardic  in¬ 
spirations  their  language  becomes,  even  to  a  perfect  stranger,  exqui¬ 
sitely  soft  or  startlingly  sonorous,  as  the  subject  may  require.  The  ear 
that  is  capable  of  being  charmed  with  the  concord  of  sweet  sounds, 
cannot  but  be  delighted  to  hear  the  Cambrian  sweep  his  native  harp  with  a 
touch  as  inspiring  as  it  is  national.  When  at  Bangor,”  says  Kelly  in  his 
Reminiscences,”  Madame  Catalani  heard  that  instrument  for  the  first 
time.  The  old  blind  barper  of  the  house  was  in  the  kitchen  ;  thither  she 
went  and  seemed  delighted  with  the  wild  and  plaintive  music  which  he 
played.  But  when  he  struck  up  a  Welsh  jig,  she  started  up  before  all 
the  servants,  and  danced  as  if  she  were  wild  ;  I  thought  she  never  would 
have  ceased.  At  length,  however,  she  finished,  and  on  quitting  the  kitchen, 
gave  the  harper  two  guineas.”  The  traveller  who,  like  Johnson,  looks 
much  to  facility  and  speed  of  transit,  will  find  the  macadamising  principle 
penetrating  far  into  those  secluded  recesses  of  North  Wales,  which  geo¬ 
graphically  appear  almost  inaccessible.  Yet  here,  such  is  the  triumph  of 
art,  amidst  the  sublimest  elevations  the  mind  can  conceive,  that  passes  once 
dangerous  as  they  are  awful,  are  traversed  with  the  greatest  security ;  nor 
will  the  enterprising  spirit  of  Cambria  rest  until  these  advantages  are  aided 
by  the  railroad  system  already  in  progress  between  Merthyr  and  Cardiff. 
In  1 803  there  was  only  one  public  carriage  in  Radnorshire,  a  post-chaise  at 
Rhaiadyr,  and  one  or  two  at  Aberystwith ;  but  none  at  Cardigan,  though  the 
county  town,  where  the  assizes  were  held.  Now,  good  roads  and  steam  have 
almost  annihilated  time  and  space,  and  London  can  be  reached  from  Aber- 
ystwith  in  twenty-four  hours,  when  formerly  it  required  that  time  to 


THE  AUTHOR’S  PREPVVCE. 


V 


accomplish  the  distance  from  Aherystwith  to  Shrewsbury.  'I'hough  late 
in  improvements^  ^Tales  has  the  advantage  of  recency  in  her  adaptations^ 
and  has  realized  in  a  few  years  results  which  time  has  taken  thou¬ 
sands  to  mature.  Her  sons  are  pursuing  with  ardour  the  developments 
of  science,  and  scientific  institutions  are  maturing,  which  are  likely  to  vie 
wnth  those  of  the  sister  kingdom.  The  interests  of  agriculture  are  em¬ 
braced  hy  various  societies  under  the  highest  patronage,  and  conducted  on 
the  gradual  inductions  of  practical  experiment.  Swords  have  been  turned 
into  ploughshares,  and  spears  into  pruning  hooks,”  the  felicitous  result 
of  bland  Christianity  in  its  unsophisticated  and  hallowed  bearings  on  so¬ 
ciety.  In  the  wilds  of  Cambria  the  Gospel  of  Christ,  from  the  remotest 
years  of  its  propagation,  found  an  asylum.  Here  the  sacred  historian  traces 
the  rudiments  of  a  primitive  church,  in  the  long  line  of  primitive  saints 
wdiose  names  still  attach  to  the  most  ancient  sacred  edifices,  who  founded 
an  establishment  which  for  centuries  was  independent,  and  enjoyed  a  po¬ 
lity,  and  exercised  a  discipline  perfectly  distinct  from  that  into  which  it 
subsequently  merged.  AV^hen,  however,  she  reverted  to  her  first  principles, 
Wales  gradually  threw  off  that  feudal  oppression  which  had  long  inured  to 
scenes  of  slaughter.  From  that  eventful  crisis  may  be  dated  her  gradual 
rise  in  the  scale  of  civilisation,  at  length  attaining  to  that  Christian  standard 
and  moral  elevation  which,  comparatively,  have  caused  ‘‘the  wilderness  to 
blossom  as  the  rose,”  attracted  the  notice  of  a  foreign  court,  and  endeared 
her  to  that  monarchy  in  which  she  forms  so  bright  a  gem.  Long  may  the 
ruthless  spirit  of  disunion  and  the  demon  of  political  agitation  leave  un¬ 
sullied  by  their  withering  touch,  the  hallowed  principles  and  the  peaceable 
temperament  which  invest  with  lively  interest  those  British  sons  and 
daughters  whose  native  home  and  dearest  associations  are  connected  with 
the  wild  and  splendid  bosom  of  Cambria  ! 

The  Editor,  in  conclusion,  begs  to  acknowledge  the  obliging  contribu¬ 
tions  of  several  friends,  and  respectfully  solicits  the  kind  correction  of  the 
literary  and  scientific  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  Principality. 

Parsonage,  Minsterley, 

January,  1840. 


THE  AUTHOR’S  PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


The  present  work  originated  in  an  itinerary  made  for  my  own  use,  and 
which  I  enlarged  by  way  of  amusement.  At  that  time  every  tourist 
in  'W'ales  found  either  the  inconvenience  of  conveying  and  referring  to 
many  volumes,  or  the  want  of  a  guide  in  every  direction  from  a  single 
book.  My  fellow-travellers,  perceiving  the  advantages  of  my  manuscript 
guide,  urged  me  to  publish  it.  To  supply  such  desideratum  has  therefore 
been  attempted  in  the  present  work.  I  have  carefully  traced  the  steps  of 
all  the  most  popular  tourists,  and  availed  myself  of  their  labours  ;  nor 
have  I  rested  here,  but  corrected  my  former  stock  of  matter,  and  made 
considerable  additions  from  actual  surveys.  Yet,  notwithstanding  the 
journeys  which  I  have  made  in  numerous  directions,  and  the  ]iains 

A  3 


VI 


THE  AUTHOR’S  PREFACE 


which  I  have  taken,  more  imperfections  than  I  am  aware  of  may  pro¬ 
bably  be  found.  I  have  endeavoured  to  comprise  a  larger  portion  of  in¬ 
formation  in  a  small  compass  than  has  hitherto  appeared,  and  avoided 
throughout  to  make  use  of  the  productions  of  others  without  acknow¬ 
ledgment.  I  am  thankful  for  the  liberal  encouragement  which  the  public 
have  vouchsafed  so  as  to  have  enabled  me  to  produce  a  second  edition.  1 
have  made  several  recent  journeys  in  various  directions,  and  have  received 
many  friendly  communications  and  corrections.  Nor  let  me  ever  be  re¬ 
gardless  of  the  kindness  of  W.  Withering,  Esq.  of  Birmingham,  who  took 
the  first  edition  in  his  hand,  through  an  extensive  tour  in  North  Wales, 
and  favoured  me  with  numerous  corrections  and  additions.  I  shall  con¬ 
tinue  to  attend  to  the  improvement  of  this  work ;  and  therefore  should 
consider  myself  much  obliged  by  further  communications.  At  the  head 
of  each  division,  in  the  following  pages,  are  references  to  the  places  whence 
the  different  tourists,  whose  productions  have  been  consulted,  came ;  and 
at  the  end  of  each  division  are  noted  the  places  to  which  they  passed.  The 
distances,  in  miles,  have  been  given,  and  a  map  is  added.  From  the 
present  arrangement,  the  tourist  may  perceive  the  routes  that  have  been 
pursued,  from  which  he  may  either  be  directed  into  the  path  most  con¬ 
genial  to  his  pursuits,  or  may  discover  others,  perchance,  more  curious  and 
inviting.  It  is  observable  that  the  present  edition  is  rendered  more 
portable  by  a  reduction  of  the  size.  This  has  been  effected  chiefly  by 
rendering  the  work  more  strictly  Welsh,  in  condensing  the  long  notices 
which  were  given  in  the  former  edition  of  the  bordering  English  towns. 
Various  unessential  matter  is  reduced  to  prominent  outlines,  in  order  to 
make  room  for  a  more  topographical  description  of  "what  is  likely  to  interest 
a  tourist.  The  enlarged  historical  details  of  Caradoc  of  Llancarfon,  by 
Wynne,  Enderbie,  Lhuyd,  Warrington,  and  others,  may  be  consulted  from 
our  libraries.  The  biography  has  been  confined  chiefly  to  anecdote,  for 
the  sake  of  breaking  the  monotony  of  names  and  admeasurements.  For 
the  ROADS,  it  will  be  necessary  to  refer  both  to  the  place  we  are  quitting 
and  that  to  which  we  are  going :  for  instance,  being  at  Dolgelly  and 
wishing  to  proceed  to  Towyn  ;  under  the  former  place  a  very  brief  account 
of  the  road  is  given,  but  by  turning  to  Towyn,  an  enlarged  description 
may  be  found.  Attention  has  been  principally  paid  to  whatever  is  singular 
or  uncommon  in  the  scenery,  and  to  natural  and  artificial  curiosities  of  the 
Principality,  comprehending  histories  and  descriptions  of  the  cities,  towns, 
villages,  castles,  palaces,  mansions,  abbeys,  churches,  mountains,  rocks, 
waterfalls,  ferries,  bridges,  valleys,  passes,  Nc.,  arranged  in  alphabetical 
order.  Also,  descriptions  of  what  is  remarkable  in  the  intermediate  places, 
as  inns,  solitary  houses,  forts,  encampments,  W'^alls,  ancient  roads,  caverns, 
rivers,  aqueducts,  lakes,  forests,  woods,  fields  of  battle,  islets,  cromlechs, 
carnedds,  tumuli,  pillars,  Druidic  circles,  works  of  iron,  tin,  copper,  &c. 
The  roads  are  described,  the  distances  given,  and  the  distinct  routes  of 
Aikin,  Barber,  Bingley,  Coxe,  Donovan,  Evans,  Fenton,  Gilpin,  Hutton, 
Lipscomb,  Malkin,  Manby,  Pennant,  Skrine,  M'arner,  IVyndham,  and 
Pugh,  are  preserved.  Tbe  whole  is  interspersed  with  natural  history, 
botany,  mineralogy,  and  remarks  on  the  manners  and  customs,  manu¬ 
factories,  and  agriculture  of  the  inhabitants. 

MODES  OF  TRAVELLING. 

The  [dan  wdiich  Mr.  Alalkin  adopted  was  that  of  walking  ;  but  he  says, 

I  took  a  servant  on  horseback,  for  the  conveyance  of  books  as  well  as 


TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


vn 


necessaries,  without  which  convenience,  almost  every  advantage  of  a  pe¬ 
destrian  is  lost  except  economy,  and  that  is  completely  frustrated  by  so 
expensive  an  addition.”  Mr.  Warner  made  his  tours  entirely  on  foot,  and 
carried  his  own  necessaries.  He  appears  to  have  often  walked  30  m.  each 
day.  Walking  can  only  be  pleasing  to  those  who  have  been  accustomed  to 
that  exercise,  and  when  not  limited  to  time.  He  who  takes  a  horse  and 
saddle-bags,  has  certainly  much  the  advantage  of  a  pedestrian  in  most 
situations  :  he  passes  over  uninteresting  tracts  with  celerity,  and  surveys,  at 
ease,  the  attractions  of  both  near  and  distant  objects.  The  latter,  though 
he  be  at  liberty  to  scramble  up  a  mountain  or  a  rock,  has  to  suffer  more 
from  that  addition  to  his  common  fatigue.  It  is  true  that  he  can  step 
aside  to  botanise  and  examine  the  beauties  of  nature  and  art,  in  situations 
where  a  horse  would  be  an  incumbrance  ;  walking  can  also  be  engaged  in 
whenever  a  person  is  ready  to  start,  and  is  the  most  independent  mode  of 
passing  on  ;  but  when  he  arrives  wet  and  weary,  at  an  inn,  at  ten  at  night, 
he  has  sometimes  to  suffer  the  mortification  of  being  received  with  coldness, 
treated  with  subordinate  accommodations,  if  not  refused  admittance  ;  ob¬ 
liged,  perhaps,  to  accept  the  necessaries  of  a  mere  public-house,  or  proceed 
further.  Dr.  Mavor  observes  that  the  most  independent  way  of  tra¬ 
velling  is  certainly  on  foot ;  but  as  few  have  health  and  strength  for  an 
undertaking  of  this  kind,  the  most  pleasant  and  satisfactory  w^ay  of  making 
a  tour,  is  undoubtedly  upon  a  safe  and  quiet  horse  adapted  to  the  country 
through  which  we  are  to  pass.  I  would  therefore  advise  persons  who 
intend  traversing  Wales,  to  perform  that  part  of  the  journey  which  lies 
through  England  in  regular  stages,  and  to  purchase  a  sure-footed  M^elsh 
pony,  as  soon  as  they  enter  the  country.  They  may  thus  gain  time  for 
their  researches  in  the  Principality,  and  be  exempted  from  the  delays  and 
fatigues  incident  to  any  other  plan  of  journeying.”  man  on  a  pony,” 

says  Sir  Richard  Colt  Hoare,  ‘^Mias  a  far  better  chance  of  minutely  noticing 
aTi  object  than  a  w^earied  pedestrian,  wdiose  thoughts,  nature  in  exhaustion, 
must  unavoidably  direct  to  his  dinner  and  his  bed.”  (S.  Wales,  1838,  p.  51.) 

I  have  hitherto  travelled  on  foot,  a  mode  possessing  many  advantages. 
The  principal  objection  which  I  can  make  is  that  of  conveying  luggage. 
A\"hen  a  guide  is  employed,  he  will  relieve  you  from  such  incumbrance. 
I  never  dine  in  my  excursions,  but  generally  rising  at  six,  w^alk  a  few  miles, 
and  make  a  substantial  breakfast  of  coffee  with  a  boiled  egg.  After  the 
toil  of  the  day,  a  good  supper  is  a  welcome  repast.  Intermediately,  I  take 
tea,  and  often  a  crust  and  a  draught  of  w^ater,  than  wdiich,  in  the  heat  of 
summer,  nothing  can  be  more  refreshing.  A  cloak  made  of  oiled  silk  is 
preferable  to  an  umbrella,  since  you  can  fold  it  up  and  put  it  in  your 
pocket.  The  stuff’  called  jean  is  proper  for  a  w^alking  dress,  being  light 
ami  strong,  and  a  straw  hat  is  desirable.  A  case  made  of  calf-skin  by  a 
saddler  is  the  most  convenient  deposit  for  your  change  of  linen  and  other 
necessaries,  ail  of  which  may  be  limited  in  weight  to  4  or  5  Ihs.  I  once 
met  in  Cwm-(jlds  a  party  of  four  gentlemen  on  foot,  whom  a  little  hoy 
followed  upon  a  small  pony,  with  the  joint  conveniences  of  each  in  a 
large  wallet ;  but  then  how^  rarely  can  twm  persons  be  found,  whose  pur¬ 
suits  are  similar,  and  whose  desires  are  alike  !  The  chance  of  four  being  so 
agreed  is  proportionably  more  uncertain.  ITalking  becomes  exceedingly 
painful  when  blisters  upon  the  feet  result  from  this  exercise.  But  this  in¬ 
convenience  may  be  prevented  by  wearing  strong,  pliant,  and  easy  shoes, 
or  those  wdiich  are  made  from  two  lasts  to  the  shape  of  the  feet,  as  de¬ 
scribed  hy  Camper;  by  wearing  fine  soft  flannel  or  woollen  socks  next  to 
the  skin,  and  by  washing  the  feet  with  water  before  going  to  bed.  If,  for 


THE  AUTHOR’S  PREFACE. 


% « * 

Vlll 

want  of  such  precautions,  blisters  should  arise_,  let  out  the  serum  with  a 
needle  without  breaking  the  skin,  bathe  the  part  with  equal  quantities  of 
vinegar  and  luke-warm  water,  and  apply  a  thin  liniment  of  wax  and  oil, 
with  a  little  sugar  of  lead  ;  some  apply  a  compress  of  brandy,  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  vinegar  of  lead,  and  anoint  with  oil.  Mr.  Hawker,  in  his  In¬ 
structions  to  Sportsmen,”  says,  “  If  your  heel  should  become  galled,  apply 
a  piece  of  goldbeater’s  skin,  and  over  that  a  little  court  plaster,  in  order  to 
defend  the  part  doubly.  But  there  is  a  right  and  a  wrong  way  of  going 
to  work.  Instead  of  cutting  with  scissors  and  merely  wetting  the  plaster, 
let  it  be  slightly  heated  by  the  fire  as  well  as  wetted,  being  previously 
stamped  with  a  wadding  punch,  by  which  means,  from  having  no  angles 
or  corners,  it  will  stick  as  fast  as  your  skin,  provided  that  when  on  and 
dry,  you  put  over  it  a  little  cold  cream,  to  repel  the  damp  in  hot  weather. 
A  little  fuller’s  earth,  mixed  with  water  to  the  consistence  of  an  ointment, 
and  applied  to  the  feet  on  going  to  bed,  is  also  recommended,  from  experience, 
to  such  persons  as  by  walking  are  liable  to  have  their  feet  painfully 
blistered. 

Mr.  Hutton,  at  the  age  of  78,  walked  600  m.  to  explore  a  shattered 
Roman  wall,  which  crosses  the  island  of  Britain  from  the  German  Ocean  to 
the  Irish  Sea  ;  the  wonderful  work  of  Agricola,  Hadrian,  and  Severus  in 
succession.  I  procured  for  myself,”  says  he,  the  exclusive  privilege  of 
walking,  which  of  all  modes  of  travelling  I  prefer.  I  had  a  budget  of 
cloth,  much  like  a  dragoon’s  cartouche-box  or  postman’s  letter-pouch,  in 
which  were  deposited  maps,  &c.  To  this  pocket  I  fastened  with  a  strap 
an  umbrella  in  a  case,  and  slung  the  whole  over  the  shoulder  that  was 
least  tired.” 

Mr.  Edward  Pugh,  of  Ruthin,  author  of  that  valuable  work  called  Cam¬ 
bria  Depicta,”  says,  p.  l6.,  Various  are  the  modes  of  travelling  through 
Wales.  They  who  are  pent  up  in  coaches  lose  many  of  its  beauties,  and 
they  who  ride,  fare  little  better.  To  the  pedestrian  neither  difficulty  nor 
danger  is  presented.  I  travel  with  a  light  knapsack  upon  my  back,  con¬ 
taining  barely  necessaries,  an  umbrella  in  my  right  hand,  and  under  my 
left  arm  a  small  portfolio  suspended  to  my  right  shoulder  by  a  piece  of 
broad  tape.” 

To  make  shoes  water-proof: — Take  drying  linseed  oil  half  a  pint,  bees’- 
wax  1  oz.,  turpentine  1  oz.,  burgundy  pitch  ^  oz.  Melt  these  over  a  slow 
fire,  and  add  a  few  drachms  of  essential  oil  of  lavender  or  thyme.  '\Vith 
this  rub  your  boots  or  shoes  with  a  brush,  either  in  the  sun  or  at  some 
distance  from  the  fire.  The  application  must  be  repeated  till  the  leather  be 
fully  saturated.  (See  also  advice  to  those  who  ascend  mountains,  p,  l60.) 

Consider  in  the  morning  where  you  are  to  sleep  at  night,  and  dispose  of 
your  time  accordingly. 

Avoid  bathing  in  mountain  lakes,  unless  you  be  a  good  swimmer.  They 
are  generally  inverted  cones. 

Wash  your  pencil  sketches  with  thin  starch  ;  it  does  not  shine. 


OF  THE  SOUNDS  OF  WELSH  LETTERS. 


A  is  pronounced  like  that  of  the  English 
short  or  open  a,  as  in  man,  bar,  glass  •- 
and  when  circumflexed,  as  a  in  dame, 
pale  ;  so  that  the  words  car,  dar,  are 
pronounced  like  care,  dare  ;  never  soft, 
as  in  able,  stable. 

B,  as  b  English  ;  mutable  into  f  and  m, 
as  bara,  bread ;  ei  fara,  his  bread  ;  fy 
mara,  my  bread. 

C  is  always  like  k  in  English  ;  or  as  C 
in  can,  come  ;  never  as  in  fity,  ^ istern. 
It  is  mutable,  as  car,  a  friend  ;  ei  char, 
her  friend;  ei  gar,  his  friend;  fynghar, 
my  friend. 

Ch  is  like  the  x  of  the  Spanish,  the  ch  of 
the  Germans,  the  %  of  the  Greek.  It 
is  pronounced  by  the  contact  of  the 
tongue  and  the  palate,  about  the  eighth 
of  an  inch  farther  back  than  when  k  is 
expressed. 

D  is  English  ;  but  mutable  into  dd  and 
n,  as  l)uw,  God;  ie  Dduw,  his  God; 
fy  Nuw,  my  God. 

Dd  as  soft  th,  as  in  thus,  this,  that,  nei¬ 
ther. 

E  as  the  English  short  e  in  men,  ten, 
bed ;  e  as  in  dame,  came,  ale  ;  thus, 
ced,  advantage,  is  pronounced  as  if 
written  kade  :  Eu,  diphthong,  as  ei 
English  ;  as  bendy,  a  cowhouse,  pro¬ 
nounced  as  beidy. 

F  as  V  Plnglish  ;  as,  gbf,  a  smith  ;  pro¬ 
nounced  as  gov. 

Ef  as  f  English  in  fetch. 

G  as  g  English  in  go,  give,  leg,  peg; 
never  soft,  as  in  gem.  In  composi¬ 
tion  it  is  dropj)ed,  as  gwr,  a  man,  yr 
hen  wr,  the  old  man  ;  glan,  the  bank 
of  a  river,  ar  y  Ian.  upon  the  hank  ; 
glan,  clean,  dillad  Ian,  clean  clothes ; 
garth,  a  hill,  ar  arth,  upon  a  hill,  pen 
yr  arth,  the  top  of  the  hill.  It  is  mu¬ 
table  into  ng  and  w  ;  as  gwas,  a  ser¬ 
vant,  fy  ngwas,  my  servant,  ei  was, 
his  servant. 

II  as  in  English,  an  aspiration  or  breath- 
in. 

I  as  the  English  ee  in  bee,  tree ;  or  i  in 
rich,  ring  ;  cil,  a  retreat,  is  pronounced 
keel :  never  as  in  bind,  kind. 


J  is  not  a  Welsh  letter;  it  is  supplied  by 
si  or  i. 

K  is  not  a  Welsh  letter ;  it  is  supplied 
by  c  or  ch. 

L  as  in  law,  love,  low. 

LI  is  1  aspirated,  a  sound  peculiar  to  the 
Welsh  language,  like  the  English  Ih. 
It  is  pronounced  by  placing  the  tip 
of  the  tongue  a  little  farther  back 
against  the  roof  of  the  mouth  than  for 
1,  and  breathing  through  the  jaw  teeth 
on  both  sides.  Llangollen  is  pro¬ 
nounced  Khlangothlin.  The  English 
1  in  let,  when  forcibly  spoken,  is  near 
to  it.  In  composition  the  11  is  ex¬ 
pressed  by  the  single  1,  a  Haw,  a  hand, 
ei  law,  his  hand. 

M  as  m  English ;  mutable  into  f,  as 
mam,  a  mother,  ei  fam,  his  mother, 
pronounced  as  if  written  vam  ;  maen, 
a  rock,  ei  faen,  his  rock. 

N  as  n  English. 

O  as  o  in  go,  no,  lot  ;  when  circum¬ 
flexed  b  as  o  in  bone  and  note ;  thus 
mbdd,  a  mode  or  form,  is  pronounced 
mooth. 

P  as  p  English. 

Ph  as  ph  English,  as  in  philosophy, 
physic,  &c.  The  true  difference  be¬ 
twixt  ff  and  ph  is,  that  we  write  with 
ff  either  such  words  as  are  purely  Bri- 
tish,  as  ffbn,  a  staff';  ffau,  a  den  ;  ffordd, 
a  way  ;  ff'elaig,  a  chieftain,  a  prince  : 
or  such  words  as  are  derived  from 
Latin  words  written  with  f,  as  ffydd, 
faith  ;  ffynnon,  a  fountain ;  ff'urf,  a 
form  ;  Ifenestr,  a  window  ;  perff'aith, 
perfect ;  but  we  write  with  ph  either 
such  British  words  as  have  the  radi¬ 
cal  p  changed  into  the  aspirate  ph,  as 
tri-phen,  three  heads ;  from  pen,  a 
head.  It  is  mutable  into  b,  mh,  and 
ph,  as  pen,  a  head  ;  ei  ben,  his  head  ; 
fy  mhen,  my  head  ;  ei  phen,  her 
head. 

Q  not  a  Welsh  letter.  In  words  taken 
from  the  English,  it  is  expressed  by 
cw,  as  ewestiwn,  from  question. 

R  in  the  middle  or  end  of  words,  as  r 
English  ;  but  rh  in  all  cases  is  the 


X 


OF  THE  SOUNDS  OF  WELSH  LETTERS. 


radical ;  mutable  into  r ;  as  rhad, 
grace,  dy  rad,  thy  grace 

S  as  in  English. 

T  as  in  English  ;  but  mutable  into  d, 
nh,  and  th  ;  as  tM,  a  father,  ei  dad, 
his  father,  fy  nhad,  my  father,  ei  thad, 
her  father. 

Th,  which  is  a  mutation  of  t,  as  in  the 
English  words  thank,  both,  nothing, 
never  as  in  them. 

U  as  English,  in  busy,  and  of  i  in  the 
words  sin,  skin,  thin,  bliss ;  if  circum- 
flexed,  as  ee  in  queen,  green ;  thus, 
du,  black,  is  pronounced  as  if  written 
dee ;  sul,  the  sun,  as  seal ;  sur,  sour, 
as  seer.  The  word  un,  one,  is  pro¬ 
nounced  een. 

V  not  a  Welsh  letter,  but  f  has  the  same 
sound. 

W  as  o  in  the  words  bone,  sore ;  if  cir- 
cumflexed,  as  oo  in  hook,  food,  boot ; 
thus,  cwd,  a  bag,  pronounced  kood ; 
mwg,  smoke,  as  moog. 

X  not  a  Welsh  letter  ;  in  writing  foreign 
words  ecs  is  used,  as  Ecsodus,  i.  e. 
Exodus. 

Y  in  any  syllable,  except  the  last,  is  pro¬ 
nounced  as  u  in  run,  churn,  hunt ;  in 
the  last  syllable  of  a  word,  as  i  in  din, 
fin,  sin ;  also  in  monosyllables,  except 
the  following,  y,  ydd,  yn,  fy,  dy,  myn, 
which  have  the  sound  of  u  in  run. 
When  y  is  circumflexed  it  has  the 
same  sound  as  fi,  thus  byd,  the  world, 
is  pronounced  beed.  These  two  sounds 
are  exemplified  in  the  word  sundry. 

Z  is  not  a  Welsh  letter  ;  it  is  supplied 
by  s. 


The  accent  is,  in  all  Welsh  words, 
either  on  the  penultimate,  or  last  syllable 
but  one ;  never  on  the  antepenultimate, 
or  last  but  two  ;  but  it  is  much  more 
frequently  on  the  former  ;  and  when 
on  the  last,  it  is  a  circumflex. 

The  variation  of  the  initial  letters  is 
always  regular,  and  constantly  between 
letters  of  the  same  organ  of  pronuncia¬ 
tion  :  for  a  labial  letter  is  never  changed 
to  a  dental,  nor  a  dental  to  a  labial,  &c. 
Adverbs  being  formed  of  adjectives, 
become  such,  by  prefixing  yn  to  the 
adjectives,  which  change  their  mutable 
initial  consonants  into  their  soft ;  as 
da  (adjective),  good  ;  yn  dda  (adverb), 
well;  mwyn  (adj.),  kind;  yn  fwyn 
(adv. ),  kindly.  Initial  vowels  are  also 
capable  of  occasional  changes.  Some  of 
changing  one  vowel  into  another ;  as 
aberth,  a  sacrifice,  pi.  ebyrth ;  attal,  to 
stop,  ettyl,  he  will  stop,  &c.  And  all,  of 
taking  the  aspirate  h  before  them  after 
the  pronoun  sing.  Ei,  when  of  the  fe¬ 
minine  gender  ;  and  the  pi.  pronouns  eu, 
their ;  and  ein,  our ;  and  the  affix ’m  ; 
as  oedran,  age ;  ei  hodran,  her  age ; 
amser,  time  ;  eu  hamser,  their  time  ; 
anadl,  breath ;  ein  hanadl,  our  breath  ; 
Arglwydd,  Lord ;  i’m  Harglwydd, 
to  my  Lord,  &c.,  to  which  rule  dip- 
thongs  are  also  subject ;  as  eiddo, 
one’s  own  ;  ei  heiddo,  her  own,  &c.  In 
seeking  for  words  in  a  dictionary,  the 
reader  should  always  turn  to  them  in 
their  primary  or  radical  initials.  — 
Richards's  Welsh  Grammar. 


GLOSSARY 


OF  WORDS  WHICH  MOST  FREQUENTLY  OCCUR  IN  THE  CONSTRUCTION  OF 

WELSH  NAMES  OF  PLACES. 


Aber,  the  fall  of  a  lesser  water  into  a 
greater. 

Afon,  a  river. 

Al,  power  ;  very  ;  most. 

Allt,  the  side  of  a  hill ;  a  woody  cliff. 

Ar,  upon  ;  bordering. 

Aren,  a  high  place  ;  an  alp. 

Bach,  little  ;  small. 

Ban,  high  ;  lofty  ;  tall. 

Banaii,  eminences. 

Bedd,  a  grave  ;  a  sepulchre. 

Bettws,  a  station ;  a  place  between  hill 
and  vale  ;  a  chapel  of  ease. 

Blaen,  the  end  or  extremity. 

B6d,  an  abode  ;  a  dwelling 
Bon,  the  base. 

Braich,  an  arm. 

Bron,  a  breast ;  a  swell. 

Bryn,  a  mount  or  hill. 

Bu,  an  ox. 

Bwlch,  a  hollow  ;  a  break.  I 

Bychan,  little  ;  fern.  Bechan  ;  if  folloiu- 
ing  a  vowel,  Fechan. 

Cad,  defending. 

Cader,  a  fortress  or  stronghold  ;  a  chair. 
Cae,  a  hedge  ;  a  field.  j 

Caer,  a  wall  or  mound  for  defence ;  a 
fort ;  a  city. 

Cantref,  a  division  of  a  county. 

Capel,  applied  principally  to  chapels  of 
ease  and  decayed  oratories. 

Cam,  a  prominence  ;  a  heap. 

Carnedd,  a  heap  of  stones. 

Careg,  a  stone. 

Castell,  a  castle  ;  a  fortress.  j 

Ceryg,  stones.  | 

Cevyn  or  Cefn,  the  back ;  the  upper  , 

side  ;  a  ridge.  I 

Cil,  a  retreat ;  a  back  ;  a  recess.  | 

Ciliau,  recesses.  i 

Clawdd,  a  dike ;  ditch  ;  or  trench. 
Clogwen,  a  precipice. 

Coch,  red. 

Coed,  a  wood.  ! 

Cors,  a  bog.  I 


Craig,  a  rock. 

Creigiau,  rocks. 

Croes,  a  cross. 

Crug,  a  mound  or  hillock. 

Cwm,  a  valley  ;  a  dingle. 

Cymmer,  a  confluence. 

Dau,  two. 

De,  the  south. 

Din,  or  Dinas,  a  city  ;  a  fortified  hill ; 
it  forms  the  names  of  places  inhabited 
by  the  Cymri.  Hence  the  dunum, 
dinum,  or  dinium  of  the  Romans; 
also  the  term  don,  ton,  and  town  of  the 
English. 

Dbl,  a  holme  ;  a  meadow. 

Drws,  a  door ;  a  pass. 

Du,  black. 

Dwr,  fluid  ;  water. 

Dyffryn,  a  valley  or  plain. 

Eglwys,  a  church. 

Erw,  a  slang  of  arable  land  ;  an  acre. 
Esgair,  a  long  ridge. 

Fordd,  a  passage,  road,  or  way. 

Fynnon,  a  well  or  spring. 

Gaer,  see  Caer. 

Gaith,  a  mountain,  or  hill  that  bends. 
Galt,  a  woody  cliff. 

Gelli,  the  grove. 

Gian,  a  brink  ;  a  side  or  shore. 

Glas,  blue  ;  grey  ;  green  ;  verdant. 
Glyn,  glen  ;  a  deep  vale. 

Gwaelod,  a  bottom. 

Gwern,  a  watery  meadow. 

Gwydd,  wood ;  woody  or  wild. 

Gwyn,  white  ;  fair  ;  clear. 

Havod,  a  summer  dwelling. 

Hen,  old. 

Hendref,  the  old  residence. 

Hir,  long. 

Is,  lower ;  inferior. 

Isav,  lowest. 


Xll 


GLOSSARY. 


Le,  a  place. 

Llan,  a  church  ;  an  enclosure  ;  at  first 
applied  to  churches  and  chapels  in¬ 
discriminately. 

Llech,  a  flat  stone  or  flag ;  a  smooth  cliff. 
Llwyd,  grey  ;  hoary  ;  brown. 

Llwyn,  a  wood  or  grove. 

Llyn,  a  lake  ;  a  pool. 

Llyr,  the  sea  ;  water. 

Llys,  a  palace,  hall,  or  court. 

Mach,  a  place  of  security. 

Maen,  a  stone. 

Maenor,  a  manor. 

Maes,  a  field. 

Mall,  bad ;  rotten. 

Mawr,  great ;  large. 

Melin,  a  mill. 

Moel,  fair  ;  naked  ;  a  conical  hill. 
Monad,  an  isolated  situation. 

Morfa,  a  sea  marsh. 

Mynach,  a  monk. 

Mynydd,  a  mountain. 

Nant,  a  brook  ;  river  ;  ravine  ;  glen. 
Newydd,  new ;  fresh. 

Or,  border  ;  the  edge. 

Pant,  a  hollow. 

Pen,  a  head  ;  top  ;  or  end. 

Penmaen,  the  stone  end. 

Pentref,  a  village  ;  a  suburb. 

Pil,  that  goes  round. 

Pistyll,  a  spout  or  cataract. 

Plas,  a  hall. 

Pont,  a  bridge. 


Porth,  a  gate. 

Pwll,  a  ditch  ;  a  pit. 

Rhaiadyr,  a  cataract. 

Rhiw,  an  ascent. 

Rhbs,  a  moist  plain  or  meadow. 
Rhudd,  red. 

Rhyd,  a  ford. 

Sarn,  a  causeway. 

Tavarn,  a  tavern. 

Tal,  s.  the  head ;  the  front. 

Tal,  a.  towering. 

Tan,  spreading. 

Tir,  the  earth  ;  land. 

Tomen,  a  mound. 

Traeth,  a  sand. 

Tref  or  Tre,  a  house  ;  a  home. 

Tri,  three. 

Troed,  a  foot. 

Trwyn,  a  point. 

Twr,  a  tower. 

Ty,  a  house. 

Tyddyn,  a  farm. 

Tyn,  a  stretch. 

Tywyn,  a  strand. 

Uchav,  highest. 

Uwch,  upper ;  higher. 

Y,  of ;  on  the. 

Ym,  in  or  by. 

Yn,  in ;  at. 

Ynys,  an  island. 

Ystrad,  a  flat  or  vale  formed  by  the 
course  of  a  river. 


ERRATA. 

Page  62,  5th  line  from  bottom,  for  “  Bangor-ferry  ”  read  “  Menai  Bridge.” 
- 311.  line  2,  dele  “or.” 

-  515.  line  27.  for  “was  called  Warden,"  read  “called  Warden,  was.” 


THE 


CAMBRIAN  TRAVELLER’S  GUIDE. 


The  names  of  places  occurring  in  the  text,  distinguished  by  small  capitals,  may  be  found  with 
more  enlarged  description  in  the  general  alphabetic  arrangement ;  ihose  in  italics,  of  inferior 
note,  are  referred  to  from  the  index. 

ABBREVIATIONS. 

m.  miles,  f.  furlongs.  n.  north,  s.  south,  e.  east.  w.  west, 

r.  and  1.  right  and  left  of  the  road.  Also  northern,  northwards,  &c. 


ABER. 


From  Port  Pcnrhyn,  3^  miles,  Aikin  ;  Evans.  From  Penniaenmawr,  3  miles.  Skrine. 
Llanvair  Vechan,  2  miles.  Bingley.  Llandegai,  3^  miles.  Pennant. 

Conway,  9 miles.  Hutton;  Skrine;  Pugh; 

Bingley ;  Gilpin. 


AbER,  or  Abergwyngregyn^  so  called  from  the  cockles  found  in  the  vicinity, 
is  a  pleasing  woody  recess,  in  the  hundred  of  Llechwedd  Uchav,  county  of 
Carnarvon,  nearly  equidistant  from  Aherffraw  and  Maesmynnan,  where 
the  Welsh  princes  had  temporary  residences.  The  church  is  dedicated 
to  St.  Bodfan  ;  the  living  is  a  rectory  ;  patron  Sir  R.  B.  W.  Bulkeley,  Bart. 
It  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel  of  equal  length,  flere,  also,  are  places  of 
worship  for  Independents  and  Wesleyan  Methodists.  The  Bull’s  Head  inn 
supplies  both  post-chaises  and  cars.  Aber  is  a  most  convenient  station 
whence  to  ascend  the  summit  of  Penmaenmawr,  and  is  one  of  the 
ferries  to  Anglesea.  When  the  tide  is  out,  the  Lavan  sands  are  dry  four 
miles  in  extent,  over  which  the  passenger  may  walk  to  the  channel, 
where  the  ferry-boat  plies.  As  the  sand  frequently  shifts,  this  walk  is 
dangerous ;  yet  many  were  formerly  under  the  necessity  of  adventuring. 
The  large  bell  of  Aber  is  still  rung  during  foggy  weather,  to  direct  the 
traveller  from  the  island  by  its  sound.  Since  the  erection  of  the  Menai 
Bridge,  this  route  is  nearly  superseded.  From  this  village,  a  deep  and 
romantic  glen,  in  length  nearly  three  miles,  forms  the  avenue  to  lihaiadyr 
]\[awr,  a  celebrated  cataract. 

On  ther.  side,  the  glen  is  bounded  by  Frith-dii  ;  the  1.  is  flanked  by  the 
magnificent  rock,  Maes-y-yaer,  and  a  bridge  of  one  arch.  This  ravine  is 
terminated  by  a  mountain,  presenting  a  concave  front,  through  a  chasm 
of  which  the  torrent  precipitates  its  waters  over  two  immense  ledges  of 
rock,  d'he  upper  fall  is  broken  into  three,  and  sometimes  four,  divisions, 
by  the  rugged  face  of  the  impending  cliff.  The  lower  cataract,  upwards 
of  ()0  feet  in  height,  forms  a  broad  white  sheet ;  and,  from  the  snow-like 
dew  of  the  spray,  has  been  compared  to  that  of  Slaubhach,  in  Switzerland. 
Every  lover  of  the  picturesque  will  not  fail  to  enjoy  this  delightful  scene  ; 
but,  if  he  would  behold  such  objects  on  a  grander  scale,  he  should  visit  the 
falls  of  the  Ilepsey,  Conway,  Cynfael,  and  the  Black  Cataract,  near  the  vale 
of  Festiniog.  And  yet  even  these  are  diminutive  compared  with  the  falls 

B 


2 


ABER. 


of  the  Rhine^  the  Nile^  the  Zava^  Velino^  or  those  at  Powerscourt, 
Albany^  Tallulah,  and  Niagara.  No  trade  is  carried  on  at  Aber. 

Plants.  —  Festuca  rubra,  and  CEnanthe  pimpinelloides,  on  the  salt-marsh 
near.  Saxifraga  stellaris,  among  rocks  near  the  foot  of  the  waterfall. 
Sedum  reflexum,  on  walls  and  roofs  of  cottages  near  the  village.  Aspidium 
spinulocum.  Upon  an  artificial  mount,  near  the  village  called  the  Mwd, 
once  stood  a  castle,  the  palace  of  Llywelyn  ap  Gryffydd,  Prince  of  Wales. 
The  vestiges  of  the  moat  and  its  feeder  from  the  river  yet  remain.  At 
the  siege  of  Montgomery,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  III.,  Llywelyn  was  so 
successful  as  to  take  William  de  Breos,  or  Bruce,  lord  of  Builth,  prisoner, 
whom  he  conducted  to  his  castle  at  Aber.  In  this  situation,  a  friendship 
took  place  between  the  captive  (who  is  said  to  have  been  accomplished 
and  beautiful)  and  his  victor.  It  unfortunately  happened,  however,  that 
the  Princess  of  Wales  commiserated  the  situation  of  De  Breos,  and  was  so 
much  won  by  his  manners  and  address  that  a  clandestine  intimacy  took 
place  between  them.  At  length,  a  ransom  liberated  the  knight  from  his 
captivity.  Soon  after,  facts  of  inconstancy  and  intrigue  on  the  part  of  the 
princess,  and  deceit  on  the  part  of  the  captive  friend,  being  discovered, 
Llywelyn  solicited  from  the  knight  the  favour  of  a  visit,  to  which  he  un¬ 
suspectingly  acceded.  He  was  once  more  in  the  power  of  Llywelyn,  who 
cast  off  the  character  of  friend,  and  assumed  that  of  the  fiend.  By 
Llywelyn’s  orders,  the  knight  was  cast  into  a  dungeon,  and  a  gallows 
erected  on  a  small  eminence  in  the  dell,  about  100  yards  below  the  castle, 
on  which  De  Breos  suffered  death —  the  victim  of  treachery  and  love.  Yet 
did  not  the  barbarity  of  Llywelyn  end  here:  the  ultimatum  remained,  with 
which  he  intended  to  glut  his  revenge.  While  the  knight  hung,  Llywelyn 
took  the  Princess  to  a  window,  from  which  was  a  full  view  of  the  gallows. 
Approaching,  he  sarcastically  smiled,  and  asked  what  she  Avould  give  for  a 
sight  of  her  lover.  At  the  neighbouring  cottages,  near  the  foot  of  this 
mount,  tradition  retains  Llywelyn’s  question  and  the  lady’s  answer  in 
Welsh.  In  English,  thus  :  — 

“  Lovely  princess,”  said  Llywelyn, 

“  What  will  you  give  to  see  your  Willim?” 

“  Wales,  and  England,  and  Llywelyn, 

I’d  freely  give  to  see  my  Willim.” 

This  melancholy  occurrence  happened  in  1229.  The  frail  princess  was 
Joan  Plantagenet,  daughter  of  King  John.  She  survived  this  catastrophe 
eight  years,  and  Avas  interred,  agreeably  to  her  OAvn  request,  in  the  mo¬ 
nastery  of  the  Dominican  friars,  at  Llanfaes,  near  Beaumaris.  Upon  a 
mountain,  four  miles  south  of  Llywelyn’s  castle,  in  a  field  called  Car-- 
Gwillim-Ddu,  is  an  artificial  cave,  where  William  de  Breos  Avas  interred. 
No  spot  could  have  been  selected  more  abounding  in  admirable  accom¬ 
paniments  than  that  upon  which  stood  this  small  priory.  It  commands  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  n.  end  of  the  Snowdonian  chain,  and  an  admir¬ 
able  prospect  of  the  Bay  of  Beaumaris. 

Llywelyn  erected  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  Joan,  and  died  in  the 
year  1240.  His  son  after Avards  married  the  daughter  of  De  Breos.  The 
remains  of  the  lady  of  Llywelyn  were  sufferred  to  repose  in  peace  293  years, 
till  Henry  VI IL,  who  may  justly  be  charged  Avith  murdering  the  living 
and  selling  the  dead,”  disposed  of  the  monastery  to  one  of  his  courtiers. 
The  church  was  then  converted  into  a  barn,  in  which  state  it  still  remains. 
The  ferocity  of  the  times  ejected  Joan  from  her  little  tenement.  Her 
coffin  of  stone  was  placed  in  a  small  brook,  and  for  250  years  Avas  used  as 
a  watering-trough.  The  late  Lord  Bulkeley  rescued  it  from  its  degraded 


ABEll. 


S 


station,  and  placed  it  under  a  temple  erected  in  the  park,  in  honour  of  her 
memory.  The  sides,  ends,  and  bottom  are  about  four  inches  thick.  From 
the  cavity  within,  the  Princess  appears  to  have  been  five  feet  six  or  seven 
inches  high ;  nine  inches  over  the  shoulders,  and  nine  inches  deep  in  the 
chest. 

On  the  way  to  Penmaenmawr  occurs  the  small  village  and  church  of 
Llanvair-vechan,  beyond  w^hich  that  vast  promontory,  rising  abruptly,  like 
the  rock  of  Gibraltar,  from  the  ocean,  is  presented  in  tremendous  majesty. 

To  Beaumaris.  Take  the  sands  at  ebb-tide,  four  m.,  keeping  in  view 
the  white  house  opposite ;  then  cross  by  a  ferry  from  a  projecting  gravelly 
bank  to  Beaumaris,  called  Osmund’s  Air.  Since  the  erection  of  the 
suspension  bridge  near  Bangor,  few  carriages  are  conveyed  this  way. 

To  Conway.  From  the  comfortable  inn  at  Aber,  several  travellers  have 
ascended  the  summit  of  Penmaenmawr,  returning,  for  the  sake  of  passing 
over  a  romantic  terrace  road  to  Conway. 

The  s.  side  is  the  least  precipitous,  but  steep.  This  green  slope  forms  a 
broad  basement,  out  of  which  projects  a  stupendous  mass  of  rock.  The 
summit  is  515  yards  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Upon  this  second  stage  of 
the  mountain  are  the  remains  of  an  early  British  fortification,  called 
Braich-y-Dinas,  the  arm  of  the  city.  After  a  resolute  tug,”  says  Mr. 
Ay  ton,  (^Voyage,  \i.  4:1.'),  which  advanced  me  to  a  great  elevation,  I 
turned  round,  and  was  gratified  with  a  prospect  which  would  have  amply 
repaid  the  labour  of  a  much  more  difficult  expedition.  To  the  r.  was 
a  blue  expanse  of  boundless  sea,  and  in  front  the  yellow  sands,  bor¬ 
dered  by  a  lovely  plain.  More  directly  under  me  lay  a  village  with 
a  church,  seated  at  the  entrance  of  a  pretty  valley.  The  mountains 
enclosing  the  glen  of  Aber  appeared  drawn  circularly,  with  the  shivered 
summit  of  Llwt-mawr  soaring  above  them  all.  The  white  foam  of  the 
waterfall  was  also  visible.  Continuing  my  ascent,  I  soon  arrived  at  the 
verge  of  Braich-y~ Dinas.  The  summit  shoots  up  in  two  protuberances  : 
upon  the  lower  there  is  a  circular  inclosure,  about  12  feet  in  diameter,  with 
a  wall  4  feet  high,  and  3  feet  thick.  Around  this  are  several  smaller 
circles,  the  walls  overthrown.  Near  these  remains  is  a  small  well  in  the 
rock.  Upon  the  higher  peak  is  an  immense  heap  of  stones.  My  view  was 
of  great  extent,  beauty,  and  variety.  The  whole  of  Anglesea  verged  to 
the  w.  with  a  sublime  expanse  of  sea.  To  the  e.,  over  a  rich  hollow, 
appeared  the  crags  of  Sychnant,  the  river  Conway,  and  the  hills  of  Denbigh¬ 
shire.  The  s.  mountains  were  covered  with  mist.  My  guide  led  me  to 
a  little  hut,  not  far  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  in  which  I  found  a 
barley-loaf.” 

Penmaenmawr  abounds  with  the  Cratsegus  Aria,  Veronica  spicata,  and 
some  say,  the  nondescript  plant,  Afaleur  pren,  the  fruit  of  which  resembles 
a  lemon.  Among  loose  stones,  near  inaccessible  rocks,  Sedum  rupestre,  and, 
in  thickets,  Hypericum  montanum. 

Mr.  Pennant  descended  from  the  summit  of  Penmaenmawr  into  a  hollow, 
between  an  adjacent  mountain  called  Penmaen,  and  proceeded  towards 
Conway,  over  a  sheep-walk.  On  his  way  he  observed,  above  Gwdhwglas, 
in  the  parish  of  Dwygyfylchi,  a  long  series  of  antiquities,  consisting  of 
stone  circles,  various  in  diameter,  great  Carneddau,  and  upright  stones, 
lie  afterwards  entered  the  turnpike  road  above  Sychnant.  (.)n  the  1.  is  a 
lofty  hill  impending  over  Conway  Marsh.  On  its  summit  is  Castell-caer- 
Lleion,  a  British  post,  surrounded  by  ditches  and  strong  ramparts  of  stone. 
Part  of  Conway,  and  a  large  bend  of  the  river,  with  its  wooded  banks,  are 
seen  from  this  descent  to  great  advantage. 

B  2 


4 


ABER. 


Between  Penmaenmawr,  and  the  second  range  of  mountains  to  the  s., 
is  the  noted  hollow^  Bwlch-y-Daufain.  It  forms  a  pass  over  the  mountains^ 
E,  of  the  country,  called  Llecwez  Isaf.  Here  are  two  large  un wrought 
upright  stone  pillars,  about  100  yards  asunder ;  erected,  probably,  as 
memorials  of  chiefs  who  fell  in  battle ;  and  near  them  is  a  great  accumula¬ 
tion  of  loose  stones,  resembling  a  carnedd  :  the  flat  one,  which  crowned  the 
apex,  is  removed.  The  traditional  account  is,  that  these  remains  were  raised 
by  a  giant  and  his  mistress. 

Formerly,  the  immense  promontory  of  Penmaenmawr  afforded  only  a 
narrow  path,  along  a  shelf  on  its  side,  for  the  terrified  traveller  to  pass.  In 
1772  application  was  made  to  parliament,  and  liberal  assistance  granted, 
for  improving  and  securing  this  part  of  the  road  to  Holyhead.  Dublin 
bore  a  distinguished  part  in  affording  aid,  by  joining  in  a  voluntary  sub¬ 
scription.  Under  the  judicious  superintendence  of  Mr.  John  Sylvester, 
civil  engineer,  what  had  been  deemed  impracticable  was  accomplished,  and 
a  road  formed  on  the  most  sublime  terrace  in  the  British  isles,  which  will 
be  the  admiration  of  future  ages. 

The  road  is  well  guarded  towards  the  sea  by  a  strong  wall,  5  feet  high, 
and  supported  in  many  parts  by  deep  walls  below.  On  this  ledge  the 
traveller  winds  round  the  mountain.  The  vast  impending  rocks  above,  the 
roaring  of  the  waves  below,  and  howling  of  the  wind,  unite  to  impress  the 
mind  with  solemnity  and  awe.  Before  the  wall  was  built,  accidents  con¬ 
tinually  happened  down  the  precipices  ;  but  since  it  has  been  perfectly  safe. 
At  some  distance,  this  route  appears  like  a  white  line  along  the  vast 
declivity,  which  is  in  many  places  so  nearly  perpendicular,  that  a  stone 
may  be  thrown  into  the  sea  below.  The  elevation  of  this  mountain  is  1540 
feet  above  the  beach  at  low  water.  This  pass,  were  it  not  for  the  wall, 
would  be  terrific ;  and,  even  now,  to  the  timid,  who  form  imaginary  terrors, 
the  amazingly  abrupt  precipice,  variegated  with  fragments  and  ruins, 
presents  a  scene  of  horror.  In  some  places,  rocks  of  vast  magnitude, 
which  have  probably  fallen  from  the  summit,  lodge  on  projecting  ledges, 
and  appear  in  the  act  of  taking  another  bound.  Several  masses  of  this 
description  are  secured  by  masonry  from  proceeding  further.  The  protect¬ 
ing  wall  is  nearly  upright,  whereas  it  should  have  been  built  as  an  abutment, 
very  wide  at  the  base,  and  inclining  inwards,  following  the  line  of  descent. 

After  having  surmounted  Penmaenmawr,  the  road  is  continued  by  a 
slow  descent  into  a  rich  plain,  checkered  with  cornfields  and  meadow'^s, 

.  which  continue  along  the  margin  of  the  sea,  till  interrupted  by  the  rugged 
promontory  of  Penmaenbach.  This  little  plain,  called  Dwyg-y-fylchi,  is 
situated  in  a  recess  of  the  mountain  :  screened  from  every  harsh  wind 
and  open  to  the  w.  sun,  it  is  characterised  by  a  most  luxuriant  fertility. 
One  year,  in  particular,  its  crop  of  barley  was  reaped,  and  some  portion  of 
it  ground,  on  the  10th  of  July.  A  striking  contrast  to  this  occurs  on  some 
parts  of  the  Hiraethog  Hills,  Denbighshire,  where  no  grain  is  sown  except 
the  hardy  oat,  of  which  many  fields  are  as  green  as  a  leek  in  the  month  of 
October.  Entering  a  singular  chasm,  called  Syclinant,  at  low  water,  the 
tourist  may  avoid  all  further  elevations  by  advancing  along  the  sands,  and 
rounding  the  w.  point  of  Penmaenbach,  over  a  flat  marsh,  to  Conway. 
At  high  tide,  however,  this  outlet  is  closed.  In  this  case,  the  laborious 
ascent  from  Syclinant  must  be  made.  This  deep  and  lonely  hollow  is 
darkened  by  a  wild  thicket,  through  which  runs  a  shallow  stream.  The 
ascent  begins  soon  after  crossing  the  bridge.  At  the  highest  elevation  of 
this  hill  the  road  is  cut  very  deep.  A  continued  descent  of  nearly  two  m. 


ABERAERON. 


5 


leads  hence  to  Conway^  which  is  entered  through  a  grand  gateway^  guarded 
by  a  double  tower.  See  Conway. 

From  the  hamlet  or  priory  of  Penmaen  is  a  near  and  pleasant  route  to 
Beaumaris,  over  the  Lavan  Sands,  which  extend  5  m,  Poles  are  set  up 
as  marks  whereby  to  avoid  quicksands.  Approaching  the  middle  of  this 
vast  area,  it  assumes  a  circular  form  ;  and  the  country  which  skirts  it  affords 
a  fine  piece  of  scenery.  The  objects  which  compose  this  grand  panorama, 
taken  consecutively,  are,  first,  the  promontory  of  Ormshead  ;  on  the  r.  of 
which  extend  the  mountains  Penmaenmawr  and  Penmaenbach.  From 
these  runs  a  picturesque  skirting,  formed  into  a  recess  by  mountains.  One 
of  these,  delving  into  an  abyss,  is  called  the  Devil’s  Caldron.  To  this 
country  succeeds,  opposite  the  sea,  another  rich  scene.  At  one  point  lies 
Bangor,  screened  by  a  woody  space  running  out  behind  it.  Thence  the  Isle 
of  Anglesea  appears  still  farther  distant,  winding  round,  like  a  long  low 
bank,  towards  the  sea.  Separated  by  a  narrow  channel  from  Anglesea  rises 
Ynys-Seiviol,  or  Priestholme,  which  another  small  channel  divides  from 
Ormshead.  A  ferry  over  the  Menai  lands  on  a  pebble  beach  close  to 
Beaumaris.  It  is  commonly  believed  in  these  parts,  that  the  whole  track 
of  the  Lavan  Sands  formed  once  a  beautiful  valley. 


To  Bangor,  6  miles.  Hutton  j  Skrine  ;  Bingley  j 
Warner. 

Llanvair-vechan,  2  miles.  Pennant, 


To  Beaumaris,  across  the  Lavan  Sands  and  Ferry, 
4  miles.  Pugh. 

Conway,  9  miles.  Pennant  •,  Aikin  ;  J.  Evans. 


ABERAERON. 

From  Kilgerran,  23  miles.  Barber;  Skrine.  From  Cardigan,  22i  miles.  Wyndham. 

Aberystwith,  16  miles.  Warner.  Llanbadarnfawr,  11  miles.  Lipscomb. 

ABERAERON,  in  Cardiganshire,  is  a  neat  flourishing  little  seaport, 
pleasingly  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Aeron,  a  stream  celebrated  for 
its  trout  and  salmon.  The  scenery  of  this  vale  is  particularly  beautiful. 
This,  added  to  a  marine  atmosphere,  retired  situation,  and  improving  con¬ 
dition,  may  render  Aberaeron,  at  no  distant  period,  a  place  of  considerable 
resort  during  summer.  This  place  is  indebted  to  the  late  Rev.  Alban 
Thomas  Jones  Gwynne,  who,  in  1807,  obtained  an  act  of  parliament,  by 
which  he  built  two  piers,  with  wharfs,  &c.,  for  about  6000/.  Colonel 
Gwynne  is  now  the  chief  proprietor  of  the  district,  under  whose  auspices 
it  is  rising  rapidly  in  importance.  Here  are  a  general  post-office,  and 
excellent  posting-house  and  hotel.  Near  the  entrance  into  the  harbour  is 
a  bar,  which  is  dry  at  low  water.  Here  are  also  places  of  worship  for 
Independents  and  Calvinistic  Methodists.  A  school  on  Dr.  Bell’s  plan  is 
supported  partly  by  subscription.  From  this  place  the  road,  bordering  the 
sea  shore,  becomes  more  level,  and  soon  introduces  the  fragments  of  Castell- 
Cadwgan,  so  called  from  the  king  of  that  name,  who  erected  it  in  1148. 
The  bar  of  the  entrance  of  the  harbour  is  dry  at  low  water.  The  greater 
part  of  this  castle  appears  to  have  been  washed  away  by  the  action  of  the 
sea.  This  fort  was  probably  erected  by  the  Normans  to  cover  their 
landing  or  retreat,  when,  in  the  reign  of  William  Rufus,  they  fitted  out  a 
fleet,  and,  descending  on  the  coast  of  Cardiganshire,  conquered  or  ravaged 
the  maritime  country  to  a  considerable  extent. 

The  situation  of  the  inn  is  delightful. 

The  road  to  Aberystwith  takes  the  direction  of  the  coast,  and  generally 

B  3 


6 


ABERAERON. 


forms  a  bold  outline  variegated  with  occasional  promontories  and  bays. 
In  ascending  a  long  hilb  coasting  vessels  may  frequently  be  seen  to  the  1. 
From  this  point  too,  the  mountains  in  North  Wales  show  their  gigantic 
heads.  Cader  Idris  and,  nearer,  Plinlimmon  are  often  visible.  The  former 
may  easily  be  distinguished  by  its  long  ridge,  somewhat  resembling  the 
back  of  a  horse,  the  latter  by  its  two  conical  points.  The  road,  inclining 
from  the  sea,  intersects  a  region  destitute  of  wood,  but  producing  good 
barley,  oats,  and  some  wheat.  The  soil  is  loamy,  with  a  substratum  of 
slate.  Seaweed  forms  the  prevailing  manure.  The  highest  elevation  of 
this  road  commands  a  view  over  the  whole  bay  of  Cardigan.  The  natives 
record  a  well  inhabited  country,  which  here  extended,  they  say,  far  into  the 
Irish  channel,  but  has  been  swept  away  by  gradual  encroachments  of  the  sea. 
They  also  tell  of  its  100  towns,  of  which  a  few  poor  villages  only  remain. 
Returning  to  the  cross-road  from  Cardigan,  pursue  it  to  the  1.  crossing 
the  river  Aeron.  The  inn  is  on  the  opposite  side.  At  a  mile  distance 
pass  the  farm  Cilgwgan  ;  soon  after,  cross  a  brook  at  another  farm,  called 
Cilgwgan-fawr.  On  the  r.  is  Llandewi-aher-arth,  a  village  on  the  banks 
of  the  Arth^  where  it  falls  into  the  sea.  The  chapel  is  a  good  building, 
subordinate  to  Henfynyw,  consisting  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  lofty  tower : 
it  is  dedicated  to  St.  David,  and  contains  some  monuments  to  the  memory 
of  the  Joneses  of  Tyglyn.  At  Aher-arth  cross  the  river.  Half  a  mile 
farther,  a  road  on  the  r.  leads  to  Llanhadarn-Trefeglwys,  called  also 
Llanbadarn-vach,  in  contradistinction  to  Llanbadern-vawr.  The  church  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Padarn,  and  the  living  is  a  vicarage,  presented  by  the 
Bishop  of  St.  David's.  This  consists  simply  of  a  nave  and  chancel,  and 
contains  a  monument  to  Hugh  Lloyde.  About  the  2^  m.  lies  Pen-y-craig- 
ddu.  A  mile  further  on  the  1.  is  Borthin,  stationed  at  the  mouth  of  a 
stream ;  and  the  road  passes  through  the  hamlet  of  Llannon,  1  m.,  where 
are  the  remains  of  its  ancient  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Non.  At  the 
6th  m.  is  Llansanffraid,  delightfully  situated  on  the  sea-side.  The  church 
is  dedicated  to  St.  Ffraid,  or  Bride,  daughter  of  Cadwrthai  of  Ireland.  It 
is  built  in  the  pointed  style.  In  the  interior  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
screen  :  the  font  is  similar  to  that  at  Henfynyw.  The  living  is  a  vicarage, 
in  the  gift  of  the  Bishop  of  St.  David’s.  Leland  says,  There  is  a  chirch 
caullid  Lansanfride,  vii  miles  from  Aberustwith,  upper  to  Cardigan  on  the 
se  side,  and  ther  hath  been  great  building.”  Tanner  says  there  was  an 
abbey  and  nunnery  at  Llansanffraid,  in  Cardiganshire.  At  the  7th  m.  is 
LlanrJiystudy  so  called  from  St.  Rhystud,  to  whom  the  church  is  dedicated. 
He  was  sometime  bishop  of  Caerleon  on  Usk.  This  village  is  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  Wyrai.  Both  Leland  and  Tanner  mention  a  nun¬ 
nery,  but  the  least  traces  of  such  a  building  are  not  visible.  This  place 
was  destroyed  in  988  by  the  Danes,  who  committed  great  havoc  in  South 
Wales.  Castell-Rhos  stands  on  the  estate  of  J.  Lloyd,  Esq.  of  Mabus,  In 
this  parish  is  a  dreary  morass,  called  Rhos-haminiog.  The  church  is  an 
ancient  building,  consisting  of  a  decayed  tower,  a  nave,  chancel,  and 
porch,  with  some  remains  of  an  ornamented  screen.  Half  a  m.  further  is 
Moel-Ivor,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  ancient  families  of  Gwynne  and 
Philips.  It  descended  by  marriage  to  the  Saunderses  of  Pentre,  in  Pem¬ 
brokeshire.  David  Davies,  M.  D.  of  Caermarthen,  married  the  surviving 
heiress  of  this  house,  the  great-granddaughter  of  the  last  Gwynne  of  Moel- 
Ivor.  It  is  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  hill,  and  hence  named  Moel-y-vawr, 
and  is  supposed  by  some  to  be  the  same  as  Llanrhystud  Castle,  mentioned 
by  Powel,  which  stood  opposite  the  present  house,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
valley.  It  was  rebuilt,  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  by  Jenkiii  Gwynne. 


ABERAERON. 


7 


This  structure  having  been  neglected,  owing  to  the  family  residence  being 
chiefly  on  the  Caermar  then  shire  estate,  it  was  taken  down,  about  the 
year  1787?  and  the  existing  farmhouse  erected.  One  mile  beyond  is  Bryn- 
Fosydd ;  and,  a  little  further,  a  road  to  the  r.  leads  to  the  village  of  Llan- 
ddeiniol,  or  Carrog,  where  is  a  good  angling  stream.  The  church,  dedicated 
to  St.  Deiniol,  stands  upon  the  brow  of  a  hill :  a  small  ancient  building, 
consisting  simply  of  a  nave,  and  separated,  so  as  to  form  a  chancel,  by  a 
double  screen.  The  arches,  of  the  pointed  style,  are  flattened.  The  screen 
had  a  gallery  over  it.  Next  occurs  Spite,  ni.  a  public-house.  At 
the  Hi  is  Tan-y-fordd  and  Y-gaer-fawr.  At  the  18th  m.  is  Chancery  ; 
and  on  the  1.,  close  to  the  sea,  is  Morfa,  formerly  called  Morfa-bychan, 
the  residence  of  Miss  Hughes.  At  the  13i  m.  on  the  r.  upon  a  little 
stream  which  falls  into  the  Ystwith,  is  an  estate  long  possessed  by  the 
Lloyds,  called  Aherllolwyn,  In  a  bog,  called  Gors-y.rhudd,  was  discovered 
a  very  curious  ancient  shield.  It  is  circular,  2  feet  in  diameter,  formed  of 
brass,  and  ornamented  with  concentric  circles.  Cross  the  Ystwith  at 
Fentre  r-hont.  The  seat  of  Captain  William  Edward  Powel,  at  Nanteos, 
lies  2  m.  up  a  tributary  stream  which  falls  into  the  Ystwith,  beyond  a  mill, 
at  the  15th  m.  The  mansion  is  a  handsome  structure,  beautifully  em¬ 
bosomed  in  a  fine  wood.  In  the  dining-room  and  gallery  are  many  family 
portraits,  and  three  or  four  excellent  Flemish  paintings.  Within  a  mile  of 
Aberystwith,  on  the  1.,  are  the  remains  of  a  British  camp,  called  Pen~dinas, 
On  the  summit  two  encampments  are  discernible,  one  square,  the  other 
circular. 

Advancing  upon  a  gentle  eminence,  in  a  field  to  the  1.  of  the  road, 
appear  several  rough-hewn  stones,  patched  with  moss.  Two  of  these 
remain  upright,  which  are  massive  parallelepipeds,  from  8  to  10  ft.  high, 
standing  within  a  yard  or  two  one  from  the  other.  They  are  conjectured 
to  be  either  the  remains  of  a  Druidic  temple,  or  the  tomb  of  some  departed 
warrior.  The  road  now  descends  through  the  abrupt  rale  of  Ystwith, 
crossing  a  picturesque  bridge,  venerably  mantled  with  ivy.  Continuing 
the  route  over  the  high  ridgy  hills,  which  divide  the  parallel  vales  of 
Ystwith  and  Rheidol,  the  latter  presents  an  agreeable  contrast  to  the 
dreary  country  within  a  few  miles  of  Haverfordwest.  Here,  among 
extensive  meadows  of  the  richest  verdure,  the  meandering  Rheidol  wantons 
in  fantastic  courses.  On  a  gentle  eminence  near  its  banks,  in  the  midst  of 
the  valley,  appears  the  embowered  town  of  Llandbadarn-fawr,  a  pic¬ 
turesque  though  deserted  spot ;  yet  once  a  Roman  city,  and  afterwards 
the  seat  of  an  episcopacy  and  monastery,  established  by  St.  Padarn  or 
Paternus  in  the  beginning  of  the  sixth  century.  The  church  is  yet  a 
handsome  building.  Between  this  town  and  the  sea-coast  is  a  small  ancient 
fortification,  consisting  of  a  separate  area,  surrounded  by  a  wall,  with  a 
tower  at  one  of  the  angles.  A  range  of  wild  hills,  backed  by  the  stu¬ 
pendous  Peinlimmon,  forms  the  opposite  boundary  of  this  valley ;  and,  at 
its  termination  on  the  sea-coast,  the  town  of  Aberystwith  appears  on  the 
brink  of  the  sea,  with  its  ruined  castle,  on  a  gentle  rise,  to  the  1.,  the 
Rheidol  flowing  on  the  r. :  this  approach  is  very  striking. 

After  quitting  Aberaeron,  Mr.  Warner’s  leading  object  was  Kiloerran 
Castle.  A  dull  unvaried  country  led  him  for  l6  miles  to  the  village  of 
Blaenporth,  where  he  quitted  the  Cardigan  road  and  turned  to  the  1., 
through  a  broad  vale  watered  by  the  Teifi.  The  little  village  of  Lluryd 
was  before  him,  containing  an  immense  manufacture  of  tin  plates,  the 
property  of  Sir  Benjamin  Hammet,  whose  house,  called  Castell  Malkwyi, 
is  contiguous. 

B  4 


8 


ABERAERON. 


After  passing  a  high  hill  on  the  road  to  Cardigan,  a  pleasing  prospect 
of  the  sea  is  presented,  with  a  retrospect  along  the  coast  of  Cardigan-bay, 
as  far  as  Aberystwith.  From  another  eminence  is  a  second  view  of  the 
bay,  till  the  inn  of  Llangronog,  half  way  from  Aberaeron  to  Cardigan,  is 
attained.  This  district  is  generally  cultivated  and  enclosed.  Two  miles 
further  is  the  British  encampment,  c^eACastell-  n  dolig ,  the  embankments  of 
which  are  broken  up  in  several  places,  and  the  area  intersected  by  turf  enclo¬ 
sures.  The  turnpike-road  passes  along  one  side.  Another  smaller  encamp¬ 
ment,  Crug-coe,  occurs  close  to  the  road,  whence  is  a  view  of  the  sea.  Near 
Cardigan  a  pleasing  prospect  is  presented  of  the  fertile  vale  of  the  Teifi. 
At  the  entrance  to  the  town  is  the  county  gaol. — Lipscomb. 

Mr.  Malkin,  Mr.  Cumberland,  and  other  writers,  are  of  opinion  that  the 
banks  of  rivers  afford  the  most  picturesque  scenery,  and  the  most  fertile 
ground.  On  this  plan  of  perambulation  continue  with  the  river  on  the 
1.  for  2^  m.;  reach  the  tributary  Mydyr  ;  cross  to  Llanwchaiaron  church,  a 
modern  structure  delightfully  situated,  and  erected  at  the  joint  expense  of 
the  parishioners  and  Col.  Lewis.  It  consists  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  tower, 
stuccoed  on  the  outside.  In  the  parish  of  Llanwch-aeron  is  a  farm  called 
Castell  Cevndu  (the  back  of  the  black  castle). 

About  a  -1-  m.  further,  in  a  well- wooded  district,  is  Llan  Aeron,  the  elegant 
seat  of  Col.  Lewis,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Parrys.  A  subsequent 
proprietor,  descended  from  Cadwgan  Grach,  of  Carog,  was  remarkable  for 
his  affability  and  liberality.  Pass  on  the  borders  of  Ciliau-Park.  Just 
across  the  river,  at  the  confluence  of  a  brook,  is  Ty-glyn,  or  Tyglyn-isav, 
(to  distinguish  it  from  Tyglyn-uchav,)  an  ancient  seat  of  the  family  of  the 
Joneses,  the  last  of  whom,  Henry,  left  a  daughter  and  heiress,  Susanna, 
who  married  Alban  Thomas,  Esq.,  of  Newcastle  Emlyn.  After  passing 
the  park,  Ciliau-aeron  lies  on  the  r.  The  living  is  a  rectory.  A  road 
2  m.  s.w.  leads  to  the  village  of  Dihewydy  or  Llanwydalus,  sometimes 
called  Dichwood.  4  ^  m.  from  Aberaeron  is  a  cross  road  over  Pont-newydd 
to  Tymawr  and  Cilcennyn,  1^  m.  to  the  1.  Walking  down  from  the  top 
of  Tri-crug-aeron  in  this  parish  to  Talsarn,  a  Cardiganshire  poet  penned 
the  following  felicitous  lines  : — 


“  Sweet  Aeron’s  vale,  unknown  in  song, 
Demands  the  warbling  lyre  : 

Shall  silver  Aeron  glide  along, 

And  not  a  bard  inspire  ? 

What  bard  that  Aeron  sees  can  fail 

To  sing  the  charms  of  Aeron  vale  ? 

“  There  golden  treasures  swell  the  plains, 
And  herds  and  flocks  are  there  ; 

And  there  the  god  of  plenty  reigns 
Triumphant  all  the  year  ; 

The  nymphs  are  gay,  the  swains  are  hale : 

Such  blessings  dwell  in  Aeron’s  vale. 

“  While  every  toast  through  Albion  vies, 

In  dubious  competition  ; 

And  female  charms  contend  the  prize 
Of  beauty’s  high  ambition  ; 

Sweet  Aeron’s  beauties  must  prevail. 

For  angels  dwell  in  Aeron’s  vale.” 


Tri-cvug  is  so  named  from  the  three  tumuli  upon  its  summit.  Besides 
commanding  a  charming  view  of  the  vale,  this  eminence  affords  great 
extent  of  vision.  Plds-Cilcennyn  was  formerly  the  residence  of  Harry 


ABERAERON. 


9 

Vaughan^  Esq.,  sheriff  for  the  county  during  the  reign  of  Cromwell.  5^-m. 
on  the  1.  is  Green  Grove,  in  a  well- wooded  situation^  once  the  property  of 
the  Lloyds,  now  of  the  Vaughans  of  Ty-llwyd.  One  m.  further  pass 
through  Llanfihangel  Ystrad,  the  principal  village  in  a  large  parish  ex¬ 
tending  from  the  vale  of  Aeron  almost  to  the  Teifi.  In  the  s.  part  of  it  is 
an  ancient  intrenchment,  near  Cryhyn.  At  Maes-y-mynach  near  a  valley 
called  Cwm-mynach,  is  an  old  stone  covered  with  knots  and  circles.  The 
church  of  Ystrad  is  an  ancient  building,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  n.  aisle, 
separated  by  five  square  pillars,  supporting  four  pointed  arches.  There  are 
some  black  stone  monuments,  which  memorialise  the  names  of  Jane  Evans, 
John  Richard,  and  the  Hon.  Lady  Dorothy,  dowager  viscountess  Lishurne. 
Ystrad  House  is  neat.  For  nearly  the  2  last  m.  we  have  left  the  Aeron 
on  the  1.;  but  in  order  to  return  to  it  pass  -1  m.  onwards  to  Llwyd-siac,  or  jack, 
thence  to  Llanllyr.  Perhaps  this  cannot  be  effected  till  the  tourist,  having 
crossed  a  brook  at  the  former  place,  turns  to  the  1.  over  a  circuitous  road 
by  the  King’s-head,  near  Velindre.  Llwyd-siac  was  formerly  the  residence 
of  the  Lloyds,  as  its  name  indicates,  but  is  now  almost  in  ruins.  The 
estate  devolved  to  counsellor  Touchett.  Llanllear  is  a  venerably  se¬ 
cluded  spot,  shaded  by  lofty  ash  trees,  and  watered  by  a  streamlet  which 
falls  into  the  Aeron.  It  was  once  a  Cistercian  nunnery,  a  cell  to  Strata- 
Florida- Abbey.  From  this  place  cross  the  river  to  the  village  of  Talsarn 
or  Tal-y-sarn,  (the  end  of  the  causeway).  Take  a  road  to  the  r.  which 
continues  not  far  distant  from  the  river.  The  village  of  Trejilan  lies 
nearly  1  m.  to  the  n.  on  the  road  from  Lampeter  to  Aberystwith.  The 
old  church  dedicated  to  St.  Hilary,  and  formed  upon  the  model  of  those 
built  about  the  time  of  King  Stephen,  was  taken  down  in  May  1806,  on 
the  site  of  which  a  small  structure  was  erected.  Continue  on  the  banks  of 
the  Aeron  for  2  m.,  leaving  Nantgwnlle,  or  Nantgunllo,  to  the  1.  Near 
Havod  is  an  old  intrenchment,  called  Pen-y-gaer.  1^  m.  further  is  a  house 
called  Cilpyll,  where  a  brook  is  crossed  which  rises  near  Pencraig,  and  falls 
near  this  place  into  the  Aeron.  Proceed  2  m.  to  Llangeitho,  the  head 
quarters  of  the  Methodists  of  this  district,  and  beautifully  situated.  The 
village  is  sheltered  nearly  on  all  sides  by  hills  clothed  with  wood,  or 
ornamented  with  the  richest  verdure,  except  where  the  eye  is  refreshed  by 
the  enchanting  vale  of  Aeron.  The  church,  dedicated  to  Ceitho,  Rev. 
Dr.  Edwards,  vicar,  stands  upon  a  delightful  rural  spot,  detached  from  the 
town  by  the  Aeron.  It  appears  to  have  been  once  a  place  of  some  conse¬ 
quence,  but  has  of  late  gone  much  to  decay.  The  living  is  a  rectory  in  the 
gift  of  the  freeholders  of  the  parish.  A  double  screen  separates  the 
chancel  from  the  body  of  the  church,  exhibiting  a  curious  specimen  of 
laborious  but  elegant  gothic  workmanship.  Each  division  consists  of  three 
ornamental  arches,  in  the  spandrils  of  which  birds  and  beasts  are  gro¬ 
tesquely  introduced.  On  the  n.  side  of  the  chancel  is  a  flat  mural  slab  to 
the  memory  of  Daniel  Rowland,  father  of  the  Rev.  Daniel  Rowland,  who  was 
rector  of  this  place  and  a  popular  preacher.  He  was  considered  a  Calvinistic 
Methodist,  but  taught  particular  tenets,  and  founded  a  distinct  sect,  de¬ 
nominated  Rowlandists,  after  his  name.  The  bishop,  in  consequence  of 
this  conduct,  censured  him,  and  he  was  suspended  from  his  office.  He 
then  collected  his  adherents,  and  they  agreed  to  build  a  very  large  meeting¬ 
house  in  the  centre  of  the  village.  His  sister  retained  her  church  opinions. 
He  was  author  of  a  volume  of  sermons,  and  translated  some  publications 
into  the  Welsh  language,  for  the  use  of  his  congregation.  He  died  October 
10th,  1790,  aged  77^  and  was  interred  in  the  churchyard.  Continue 
along  the  e.  bank  of  the  Aeron,  to  Rhyd-y-pandy,  leaving  Llanbadarn 


10 


ABERGAVENNY. 


Odwyn  on  the  r.  This  church  is  situated  upon  a  very  high_,  cold,  and 
bleak  eminence,  commanding  a  fine  prospect  of  the  fertile  vale  of  Aeron. 
The  name  indicates  its  patron  saint  to  be  St.  Padarn  or  Patrick.  Odwynne, 
(very  white)  seems  to  be  descriptively  applied,  as  it  may  be  seen  for 
some  miles  on  every  side.  Higher  than  these  places  there  appears  no  beaten 
track.  This  river  takes  its  rise  in  Llyn-aeddwen.  This  lake  contains 
abundance  of  eels,  and  a  trout  called  Ingoch,  or  red-hellied.*’  The 
Aeron,  between  6  and  7  ni.  in  extent,  forms,  during  the  whole  of  its 
course,  nearly  the  arc  of  a  circle.  Between  the  rivers  Aeron  and  Teifi  are 
eighteen  brooks  and  rivulets,  all  communicating  with  the  salt  water,  and 
like  them  abounding  with  salmon,  salmon-trout,  sewin,  &c.  Fish  up  the 
stream  of  Aeron.  The  common  road  deviates  to  the  e.  falling  into  another 
which  passes  from  the  s.  to  the  n. 

To  Aberystwith,  18  miles.  Barber  j  Wyndham  j  To  Cardigan,  22  miles.  Warner;  Wyndham’s 
Skrine.  2d  tour  ;  Lipscomb. 


ABERGAVENNY. 


From  Monmouth,  19  miles.  Barber;  Skrine. 
Ragland,  9  miles.  Coxe. 

Brecon,  20  miles.  J.  Evans.  , 


From  Usk,  11  miles.  Warner. 

Llanthony  Abbey,  11  miles.  Wyndham. 
Crickhowel,  6  miles.  Wyndham. 


ABERGAVENNY,  anciently  Burgevenny,  Monmouthshire  (the  Goba- 
nium  of  the  Romans)  is  a  town  of  considerable  extent,  delightfully  situated 
upon  rising  ground,  between  the  confiux  of  the  Gavenny  and  the  Usk,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Derri,  one  of  the  confederated  hills  sustaining  the  towering 
cone  of  the  Sugar-Loaf.  This  town  and  its  environs  have  strong  claims  on 
the  traveller’s  attention.  The  castle  and  delightful  terrace,  overlooking  the 
rich  vale  of  Usk;  a  church  abounding  in  costly  sculptured  tombs;  towering 
and  variegated  mountains,  studded  with  beautiful  villas,  the  bases  surrounded 
with  lofty  oaks  and  elms,  all  conspire  to  render  this  place  eminently  attractive. 
The  lofty  summit  of  the  Sugar-Loaf,  the  rugged  eminence  of  the  Skyrrid- 
fawr  and  the  Blorenge,  should  none  of  them  be  unvisited.  In  1801  this 
town  contained  2573  inhabitants;  1831,  3940.  Tuesday  is  the  market- 
day;  and,  owing  to  its  contiguity  with  the  iron  works  of  Blaenavon,  Gam- 
dyris,  and  Llanelly,  it  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  in  provisions,  and  such 
articles  as  are  of  general  use,  not  exceeded  by  any  inland  town  in  the  prin¬ 
cipality.  This  town  lies  on  the  direct  road  from  Monmouth  to  Brecon. 
The  mail  arrives  at  five  in  the  evening,  and  returns  at  eight  in  the  morning. 

Inns.  The  Greyhound,  Angel,  George,  and  Golden  Lion. 

Upon  an  eminence,  near  the  s.  extremity  of  the  town,  is  the  site  of 
the  ancient  castle,  which  has  been  converted  into  a  modern  dwelling,  with 
turrets  at  each  angle.  Its  terrace,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view  over 
the  vale  of  the  Usk,  is  permitted  to  be  a  public  promenade.  The  walks 
have  been  considerably  improved,  and  many  plantations  of  trees  and  shrubs 
added. 

The  town  was  once  fortified ;  and  not  many  years  since  many  portions 
of  the  works  remained,  particularly  Tudor’s  Gate  the  w.  entrance  :  remark¬ 
able  on  account  of  the  beautifully  variegated  landscape  which  formerly 
was  seen  through  it.  At  present  no  traces  of  the  gateway  remain. 

The  style  of  building  which  characterises  the  remains  of  this  fortress 
indicates  its  origin  to  have  been  subsequent  to  the  Norman  epoch.  It 
was  founded  by  Hameline  Baiun,  or  Baladun,  son  of  Dm  of  Baiun,  a 


ABERGAVENNY. 


11 


Norman  adventurer,  who  came  with  William  I.,  and  let  loose  the  demon  of 
war  upon  the  unoffending  Welsh.  Having  subdued  the  entire  district  of 
Overwent,  he  died,  without  issue,  in  IO9O,  bequeathing  the  castle  to  his 
nephew,  Brian  de  Wallingford,  or  De  Tlsle.  It  was  afterwards  possessed 
by  Walter  de  Gloucester,  by  Milo  his  son,  then  by  his  three  daughters,  by 
Philip  de  Broase,  and  by  his  son  William.  It  was  subsequently  taken  by 
the  Welsh,  under  Sytsylt  ap  Dyfnwald,  when  the  garrison  were  made 
prisoners.  William  received  it,  however,  again  in  exchange,  and,  inviting 
several  Welsh  chieftains  to  the  castle,  he  treacherously  caused  them  to  be 
murdered.  From  the  Braoses  it  descended  to  the  Cantelupes,  the  Hastings, 
Valences,  Herberts,  Greys,  Beauchamps,  and  Nevilles.  George  Neville, 
the  fifteenth  baron,  was  created  Viscount  Neville  and  Earl  of  Abergavenny 
in  1784  :  dying  in  1785,  he  was  succeeded  in  honours  and  estates  by 
Henry  Neville,  the  present  earl.  The  church  is  a  large  Gothic  structure, 
and  appears  to  have  been  built  in  the  form  of  a  Roman  cross,  but  has  been 
curtailed  of  its  transepts  ;  at  the  juncture  of  one  of  which  a  circular  arch, 
now  filled  up,  bears  a  Norman  character,  and  seems  to  have  been  part  of 
the  original  building.  Three  arches,  curiously  dissimilar,  separate  the  aisle 
from  the  nave.  The  choir  remains  in  its  antique  state,  with  stalls  formed 
of  oak,  and  rudely  carved.  The  aisles  on  either  side  are  furnished  with 
the  monuments  of  the  Herbert  and  other  families.  That  which  records  the 
name  of  Sir  Richard  Herbert  of  Ewias,  son  of  William,  the  first  Earl  of 
Pembroke,  is  the  most  striking.  In  a  recess  of  the  s.  wall  is  a  recumbent 
figure,  with  uplifted  hands,  the  head  resting  upon  a  helmet ;  at  the  feet  a 
lion,  and  behind  are  some  small  figures  in  alabaster ;  beneath  is  an  alabaster 
monument,  containing  two  recumbent  figures.  Under  an  arch,  between 
the  chapel  and  choir,  are  the  remains  of  Sir  Richard  Herbert,  of  Coldbrook, 
and  his  wife.  He  was  distinguished  for  his  valour  at  the  battle  of  Ban¬ 
bury,  1469.  In  the  centre  of  the  chapel  is  another  of  alabaster,  rich  with 
carving,  to  the  memory  of  Sir  William  ap  Thomas  and  Gladys,  his  wife, 
the  parents  of  William  Herbert,  first  Earl  of  Pembroke.  Sir  William  was 
the  son  of  the  famous  Thomas  ap  Gwillim  ;  and  his  wife  was  daughter  to 
Sir  David  Gam,  and  widow  of  Sir  Roger  Vaughan,  who  fell  at  Agincourt 
by  the  side  of  Henry  V.  On  the  s.  side  is  an  in-arched  mural  monument, 
surmounted  by  tabernacle  work,  bearing  a  recumbent  stone  figure,  cross- 
legged,  supposed  to  represent  a  knight.  Other  altar-tombs  commemorate 
some  of  the  families  of  Beauchamp  and  Neville.  In  the  n.  e.  corner  are 
two  stone  effigies,  representative  of  Sir  Andrew  and  Lady  Powel,  a  collateral 
branch  of  the  Herbert  family.  At  the  n.  end  of  the  choir  are  two  female 
recumbent  figures,  rude  and  dilapidated,  said  to  have  been  co-heiresses  of 
Braose,  Lord  of  Abergavenny.  In  the  n.  aisle  of  the  choir  is  a  small 
enclosure,  called  the  Lewis  Chapel,  wherein  is  a  monument  formed  of  one 
piece  of  stone,  to  the  memory  of  Dr.  David  Lewis.  He  died  a.d.  1584. 
A  colossal  statue  in  the  window  of  the  n.  aisle  represents  St.  Christopher. 
The  body  of  the  church  has  been  elegantly  modernised.  Before  the  disso¬ 
lution  of  religious  houses  this  structure  belonged  to  a  priory  of  Benedictine 
monks,  which  was  founded  by  Hameline  de  Baladun,  one  of  the  Norman 
adventurers,  who  acquired  Abergavenny  by  conquest.  The  Priory-House 
adjoins  the  nave  of  the  church. 

A  free  grammar-school  was  founded  here  by  Henry  VIII.,  and  amply 
endowed  with  the  revenues  of  forfeited  monasteries,  &c.  At  about  2  m. 
distance  n. e.  is  Werndu,  once  a  mansion  of  considerable  magnificence; 
now  only  interesting  as  the  spot  where  the  prolific  Herbert  race  first  settled 
in  Britain. 


12 


ABERGAVENNY. 


In  the  vicinity  of  Abergavenny  there  are  several  elegant  villas  which 
arrest  the  traveller’s  attention,  particularly  Llanfoist  (W.  Peter,  Esq.),  situ¬ 
ated  at  the  base  of  the  Blorenge  mountain,  near  the  canal  which  winds  along 
the  side  of  the  range  leading  to  Pont-y-pool.  This  mansion  appears  to 
advantage  on  entering  the  town  from  Usk,  or  from  the  e.  end  of  Tudor 
street,  where  the  town  gate  formerly  stood. 

Moving  towards  the  bridge,  and  looking  towards  the  mountains,  across 
the  Usk,  the  Blorenge  strikes  our  attention,  down  the  concave  side  of  which 
may  be  heard  the  rattling  of  the  tram- waggons,  conveyed  upon  inclined 
planes,  bringing  with  them  coals,  iron,  and  limestones  to  the  canal,  lime¬ 
kilns,  and  coal- yard  near  its  base.  Passing  the  old  bridge,  of  thirteen 
arches,  over  the  Usk,  we  ascend  the  Blorenge,  which  rises  to  the  height  of 
1720  feet.  Close  to  the  old  bridge  is  another  of  five  arches,  of  consider¬ 
able  height,  erected  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  the  level  of  the  tramroad, 
or  railway,  for  conveying  coals  and  lime  to  Monmouth^Cap,  on  the  confines 
of  Herefordshire,  distant  14  m.  The  Blorenge  is  one  of  the  chain  of 
mountains  which  extends  from  Brecon  to  Trostmont,  below  Pont-y-pool. 
The  summit  is  covered  with  a  russet- coloured  herbage,  forming  a  contrast 
to  the  underwood,  the  pastures  upon  the  sides,  and  the  forest  trees  which 
skirt  its  base.  An  immense  tunnel  passes  from  the  opposite  side,  near 
Blaenavon,  and  emerges  upon  the  side  of  this  mountain,  a  distance  of  at 
least  2  m.  in  a  direct  line.  The  coal,  iron,  &c.  are  conveyed  down  to  the 
canal  in  trams,  by  two  inclined  planes,  of  500  yards  each.  Goods  of  various 
kinds  are  conveyed  up  the  mountain,  also  in  trams,  which  being  connected 
with  the  heavier  descending  trams,  by  a  chain  that  twists  round  a  revolving 
barrel  at  the  opening  of  the  tunnel,  they  are  drawn  up,  where  they  are  un¬ 
loaded,  and  return  with  heavy  articles,  to  bring  up  the  opposite  tram,  and 
so  on,  alternately.  From  the  canal  to  the  level  near  the  bridge  is  another 
inclined  plane.  The  lime  is  in  much  demand  as  manure,  and  the  coal  will 
probably,  ere  long,  be  carried  to  Hereford,  since  an  extended  railway  already 
reaches  half  the  distance.  This  extraordinary  work  was  originally  under¬ 
taken  to  convey  the  produce  of  the  Blaenavon  furnaces  into  the  Breconshire 
canal,  but  it  has  been  found  to  answer  other  valuable  purposes. 

At  the  works  of  the  Blaenavon  Iron  Co.  five  furnaces  are  all  in  blast, 
blown  with  cold  air,  and  six  others  erecting.  This  mineral  property  is  one 
of  the  best  and  most  valuable  in  the  county  of  Monmouth,  and  these  works 
have  been  long  distinguished  for  the  superior  strength  and  general  excel¬ 
lence  of  their  iron.  These  five  furnaces  produce  about  400  tons  of  cast  iron 
per  week,  about  one  half  of  which  is  refined,  and  part  of  it  made  into  cable 
iron,  and  the  remainder  is  sold  for  tin  plates  and  foundery  work.  This 
company  is  erecting  extensive  forges  and  rolling  mills. 

The  mountainous  territory  containing  these  mineral  treasures,  was  de¬ 
mised  by  the  crown  to  the  Earl  of  Abergavenny,  and  is  held  under  lease 
by  Messrs.  Hill  and  Son,  who  reside  at  Blaenavon,  3  m.  s.  from  the 
summit  of  the  Blorenge,  situated  at  the  n.  w.  boundary  of  Afon-llwyd, 
a  valley  so  called  from  the  rivulet  which  runs  through  it.  The  steam-en¬ 
gine  employed  here,  in  supplying  the  blast  of  the  furnaces,  is  one  of  the 
largest  in  use  in  operations  of  this  kind.  Two  thousand  persons  are  em¬ 
ployed  in  the  various  departments  of  these  works.  This  unfrequented 
district,  formerly  called  the  Wilds  of  Monmouthshire,  now  contains  a  po¬ 
pulation  equal,  perhaps,  to  any  district  in  the  county.  The  church  at 
Blaenavon  has  been  handsomely  rebuilt,  and  near  it  a  school  is  erected,  with 
dwellings  at  each  end  for  the  teachers  of  the  children  of  both  sexes,  belong¬ 
ing  to  the  labourers.  This  school  and  dwellings  were  built  and  are  supported 


ABERGAVENNY. 


13 


by  the  benevolence  of  Miss  Hopkins,  sister  of  the  late  Mr.  Hopkins,  who 
was  the  partner  in  trade  of  Messrs.  Hill  and  Son.  The  W esleyan  Methodists, 
and  some  dissenters,  have  chapels  in  the  vicinity.  A  benefit  society  is  sup¬ 
ported,  who  form  among  themselves  an  excellent  band  of  music.  Thomas 
Hill  and  Sons,  Esqs.,  being  proprietors  of  this  district,  have  wisely  allowed 
only  one  public-house.  They  are  partners  in  the  firm  of  Abergavenny  Old 
Bank,  and  are  generally  beloved  by  those  whom  they  employ. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Abergavenny  there  is  a  very  elegant  small  villa,  belong¬ 
ing  to  lady  Harrington,  the  entrance  to  which  is  tastefully  laid  out ;  and 
about  4  m.  n.  w.  of  the  town  are  the  handsome  family  mansion  and  plea« 
sure  grounds  of  Cwrt~y -gotten. 

Passing  the  fine  old  bridge,  of  thirteen  arches,  over  the  Usk,  the  Blorenge 
Mountain  rises  to  the  height  of  1720  feet.  This  is  one  of  the  elevations 
which  form  the  chain  extending  from  the  confines  of  Brecknock  to  Panteg, 
below  Pont-y-pool.  The  summit  is  covered  with  a  russet-coloured  herbage, 
forming  a  contrast  to  the  underwoods  and  pastures  upon  its  sides,  and  the 
large  timber  trees  which  skirt  its  base.  This  lengthened  mountain  forms  the 
N.  E.  boundary  of  the  valley  called  Avon  Llwyd,  from  the  rivulet  which  runs 
through  it. 

A  principal  excursion  from  Abergavenny  is  that  which  leads  toLuANTHONv 
Abbey,  a  majestic  ruin,  seated  in  a  deep  recess  of  the  black  mountains,  at 
the  very  extremity  of  Monmouthshire.  The  first  part  of  the  route  lies  through 
a  romantic  pass,  between  the  Skyrrid  and  Sugar-Loaf  Mountains,  upon  the 
Hereford  road.  Proceeding  about  2  m.,  the  church  of  Llandeilo  Bertholeu 
appears  on  the  r.,  and  not  far  from  it  an  antique  mansion  called  the  White 
House,  formerly  a  residence  of  the  Floyers,  afterwards  occupied  by  the  Rev. 
C.  Powell,  rector  of  Llanfoist.  Another  ancient  house,  at  the  village  of  Llan- 
fihangel-crugcorneu,  seen  through  groves  of  firs,  was  a  seat  of  the  Arnolds, 
but  now  belongs  to  the  Hon.  W,  Rodney.  From  this  place  to  Cwm  Yoy  a 
footpath  turns  to  the  1.  among  the  mountains,  through  tangled  forests  and 
upon  precipices  impendent  over  the  brawling  torrent  of  Honddu,\v\\\c\\\\eYQ 
and  there  opens  to  scenes  of  the  most  romantic  description.  Immediately 
to  the  1.  of  the  road  rises  the  Gaer,  a  huge  rocky  hill  crowned  with  an  an¬ 
cient  encampment.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  stands  the  village 
of  Cwm  Yoy,  upon  a  steep  cliff  under  a  frowning  hill.  Cross  the  Honddu 
river  and  proceed  4  m.  to  Oldcastle,  leaving  on  the  1.  a  house  called  Trewyn, 
a  noble  mansion,  occupying  a  commanding  situation.  On  the  r.  is  another, 
called  Allt-yr-ynys,  in  a  singularly  picturesque  situation  beneath  the  junction 
of  the  Honddu  and  the  Mynow,  a  seat  of  the  Cecils.  Oldcastle  is  a  small 
village,  delightfully  situated  upon  the  e.  slope  of  the  black  mountains  which 
skirt  the  vale  of  Ewias.  It  is  supposed,  by  Gale  and  Stukely,  to  have  been 
the  ancient  Blestium  of  Antoninus,  an  opinion,  however,  founded  merely  on 
the  discovery  of  a  few  Roman  coins.  Several  encampments  near  the  spot 
wear  a  Roman  character.  This  place,  to  the  sincere  protestant,  is  peculiarly 
interesting,  from  the  circumstance  of  having  been  once  the  residence  of  Sir 
John  Oldcastle,  Lord  Cobham,  the  companion  of  Henry  V.,  afterwards  chief 
of  the  Lollards,  the  first  martyr  of  our  nobility.  He  was  burnt  in  141 7* 
This  castle  has  been  taken  down,  and  a  farmhouse  constructed  with  the  ma¬ 
terials.  Proceed  by  the  Hatteral  hill,  on  the  1.,  3m.  to  Longtown,  a  town¬ 
ship  and  chapelry  in  the  parish  of  Cledock,  near  Golden  Vale,  containing 
ll6  houses  and  7^8  inhabitants.  Cledock  is  said  to  be  the  burial-place  of 
the  Welsh  martyr,  Cledog.  Michael  Church,  Escley,  lies  Sg  m.  distant ; 
a  thinly  populated  place,  about  9  from  Hay. 


14 


ABERGAVENNY. 


AN  EXCURSION  FROM  ABERGAVENNY. 

CMefly  from  Archdeacon  Coxe. 

Having  received  repeated  accounts  of  the  different  and  contrasted  views 
from  the  tops  of  the  Sugar-Loaf  and  Skyrrid,  I  determined  to  visit  them 
both  on  the  same  day,  I  departed  therefore  at  seven  in  the  morning  from 
Abergavenny,  rode  about  1  m.  along  the  Hereford  road,  mounted  the  e.  side 
of  the  Derri,  a  name  given  to  a  small  mountain  at  the  base  of  the  Sugar- 
loaf,  which,  from  the  summit,  appears  like  a  cone,  and  is  called  Mynydd 
Fen-y-fal.  The  sides  of  the  mountain  were  covered  with  heath,  whortle¬ 
berries,  and  moss,  to  the  height  of  a  foot,  which  renders  the  ascent  so  ex¬ 
tremely  easy,  that  a  light  carriage  might  be  driven  to  the  base  of  the  cone, 
nor  more  than  100  paces  from  the  summit.*  I  dismounted  near  a  rock 
which  emerges  from  the  side  of  the  ridge,  forming  a  natural  wall,  and  reached 
the  top  without  the  least  difficulty.  This  elevated  point,  which  crowns  the 
summit  of  4  hills,  is  an  undulated  ridge  about  ^  m.  in  length,  and  200  yards 
in  breadth,  with  broken  crags  starting  up  amid  the  moss  and  heath  with 
which  it  is  covered.  The  view  from  this  point  is  magnificent,  extensive, 
and  diversified.  It  commands  the  counties  of  Radnor,  Salop,  Brecknock, 
Monmouth,  Hereford,  Worcester,  Gloucester,  Somerset,  and  Wilts.  To  the 
N.  w.  stretches  the  long  and  beautiful  vale  of  the  Usk,  winding  in  its  course 
until  lost  in  the  recesses  of  the  mountains  behind  the  Bwlch,  4  m.  beyond 
Crickhowel.  On  the  s.  it  extends  to  the  base  of  Pen~ca-mawr,  below  the 
town  of  Usk.  It  is  bounded  on  the  n.  by  the  Clytha  Hill,  and  on  the  s.  by 
the  magnificent  Blorenge,  and  a  range  of  hills  leading  to  Pont-y-pool.  To 
the  N.,  a  bleak,  dreary,  sublime  mass  of  mountains,  extends  in  a  circular 
range  from  the  extremity  of  the  black  mountains,  above  Lanthony,  to  the 
Table-Rock,  near  Crickhowel;  the  commencement  of  the  great  chain  which 
extends  from  these  confines  of  Monmouthshire  across  N.  W ales  to  the  Irish 
sea.  To  the  e.  I  looked  down  on  the  broken  crags  of  the  great  Skyrrid, 
which  starts  up  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  and  cultivated  region.  Above,  and 
on  the  side  of  Brecknockshire,  all  was  clear  and  bright ;  but  below,  and  to 
the  s.,  there  was  much  vapour  and  mist,  which  obscured  the  prospect,  and 
prevented  my  seeing  the  distant  Severn,  and  the  hills  in  Somersetshire  and 
Gloucestershire.  This  elevated  point  is  seen  from  Bitcomb-hill,  near  Long- 
leat,  Wilts ;  also  from  the  the  Stiper-stones,  in  Shropshire,  near  the  borders 
of  Montgomeryshire. 

During  my  continuance  upon  the  summit,  I  felt  that  extreme  satisfaction 
which  I  always  experience  when  elevated  on  the  highest  point  of  the  circum¬ 
jacent  country.  ‘‘  The  air  is  more  pure,  the  body  more  active,  and  the  mind 
more  serene.  Lifted  up  above  the  dwellings  of  man,  we  discard  all  grovelling 
and  earthly  passions :  the  thoughts  assume  a  character  of  sublimity  propor¬ 
tionate  to  the  grandeur  of  the  surrounding  objects ;  and,  as  the  body  ap¬ 
proaches  nearer  to  the  ethereal  regions,  the  soul  imbibes  a  portion  of  their 
unalterable  purity.’'  Reluctantly  quitting  the  summit,  I  walked  down  the  side 
of  the  Derri,  facing  the  precipitous  crags  of  the  dark  Skyrrid,  and  in  an  hour 
entered  the  Hereford  road,  2  m.  from  Abergavenny,  where  I  arrived  at  half 
past  11.  I  would  recommend  travellers  who  visit  the  top  of  the  Sugar- 
Loaf  to  ascend  the  Derrifach  from  the  Hereford  road,  and  to  descend  the 
side  of  the  Rholben.  The  ridge  of  the  Skyrrid  seemed  to  be  about  a  m.  in 

*  From  an  admeasurement  by  the  late  General  Roy,  this  eminence  was  found  to  be  not  less  than 
1852  f.  above  the  mouth  of  the  Gavenny,  at  low  water. 


ABERGAVENNY. 


15 


lengthy  extremely  narrow,  generally  not  more  than  30  or  40  feet  broad,  and 
in  some  places  only  10  or  12.  Its  craggy  surface  is  partly  covered  with 
scant  and  russet  herbage,  exhibiting  only  a  stunted  thorn,  which  heightens 
the  dreariness  of  its  aspect. 

I  passed  3^  m.  along  the  Ross  road  as  far  as  Llanddewi  Skyrrid,  where 
there  is  an  old  Gothic  mansion,  now  a  farmhouse.  It  formerly  belonged  to 
the  family  of  Greville,  was  sold  by  the  late  Earl  of  Warwick  to  Henry 
Wilmot,  Esq.  secretary  to  the  lord  chancellor,  and  became  the  possession 
of  his  son.  From  this  place  I  followed  a  narrow  stony  bridle-way  till  I 
reached  the  extremity  of  the  Skyrrid-fawr,  and  walked  up  a  grassy  path. 
I  attained  the  summit  without  making  any  violent  exertions,  or  expe¬ 
riencing  much  fatigue.  I  ascended  to  the  highest  point  of  the  mountain, 
at  its  N.  E.  extremity,  where  a  small  circular  cavity  is  formed  near  the 
verge  of  the  precipice.  It  is  supposed  to  be  the  site  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Michael,  from  which  the  Skyrrid  has  derived  one  of 
its  appellations,  St.  Michael’s  Mount.  I  could  observe  no  traces  either 
of  walls  or  foundations.  The  entrance,  which  is  to  the  s.  w.,  is  marked 
by  two  upright  stones,  2  feet  in  height :  upon  one  of  them  are  several  letters 
rudely  carved,  among  which  I  could  only  distinguish  ‘‘Turner,  I67I.”  I 
seated  myself  on  the  brow  of  the  cliff,  overhanging  the  rich  groves  of 
Llanvihangel-crugcorneu,  and  surveyed  at  my  leisure  the  diversified  ex¬ 
panse  of  country  which  stretched  beneath  and  around.  Although  the  sum¬ 
mit  of  the  Skyrrid  is  less  elevated  than  that  of  the  Sugar-Loaf,  yet  its 
insulated  situation,  abrupt  declivity,  and  craggy  fissures,  produce  an  effect 
more  sublime  and  striking  than  the  smooth  and  undulating  surface  of  the 
Sugar-Loaf  and  Derri-fach.  On  the  n.  e  and  e.  an  extensive  and  fertile 
region  stretches  from  the  centre  of  Herefordshire  to  the  vale  of  the  Usk, 
which,  though  a  succession  of  hill  and  dale,  yet  appears  a  vast  plain, 
broken  by  a  few  solitary  eminences,  and  bounded  by  distant  hills,  gradually 
losing  themselves  in  the  horizon.  The  spires  of  Hereford  Cathedral 
gleamed  in  the  distant  prospect ;  the  remains  of  Grosmont  Castle  were  faintly 
distinguished  under  the  Graig  and  Gar  way;  and  the  majestic  ruins  of  White 
Castle  tower  above  the  church  of  Llanddewi  Skyrrid.  To  the  s.  the  gentle 
swell  of  the  Skyrrid-fach  rose  like  a  hillock  with  the  hills  of  Clytha,  tufted 
with  the  Coed-y-Bunedd,  and  backed  with  the  Pencamawr  ;  beyond  which 
appears  the  estuary  of  the  Severn,  under  the  cultivated  eminences  of  Glou¬ 
cestershire  and  Somersetshire.  To  the  s.  w.,  the  eye  caught  a  glimpse  of 
the  Usk,  pursuing  through  copses  and  meads  its  serpentine  course,  under  a 
continued  chain  of  wooded  acclivities.  To  the  w.  and  n.  w.  I  looked  down 
on  a  grand  dreary  mass  of  mountains,  extending  from  Abergavenny  beyond 
the  frontiers  of  Herefordshire,  and  domineered  by  the  elegant  cone  of  the 
Sugar-Loaf.  The  black  mountains  form  the  northern  extremity  of  this 
chain,  and  are  intersected  by  the  sequestered  valley  of  the  Honddu.  Be¬ 
neath  yawned  the  abyss  of  the  stupendous  fissure,  which  appears  to  have 
been  caused  by  some  violent  convulsion  of  nature ;  and,  according  to  the 
legends  of  superstition,  was  rent  asunder  by  the  earthquake  at  the  cruci¬ 
fixion  of  our  Saviour:  hence  it  is  also  denominated  the  Holy  Mountain, 
by  which  name  it  is  chiefly  distinguished  among  the  natives.  After  con¬ 
templating  the  chasm  above,  I  endeavoured  to  enter  it  down  the  w.  side  of 
the  mountain  ;  but,  finding  the  declivity  too  precipitous,  remounted  the 
ridge,  and  descended  the  gentler  slope  to  the  e.  Proceeding  along  its  base, 
I  turned  round  its  n.  e.  extremity,  which  terminates  in  an  abrupt  and  tre¬ 
mendous  precipice,  and,  passing  over  fragments  of  rock,  entered  the  fissure 
on  the  N.  w.  side  of  the  mountain.  This  chasm  is  not  less  than  300  feet 


16 


ABERGAVENNY. 


in  breadth  :  the  rugged  side  of  the  Skyrrid  rises  perpendicular  as  a  wallj  to 
an  amazing  height.  The  opposite  crag  is  equally  abrupt,  though  far 
less  elevated.  At  some  distance  it  appears  like  an  enormous  fragment^ 
separated  from  the  mountain.  Its  shape,  and  the  strata  of  the  rock,  re¬ 
semble  that  part  of  the  Skirrid  from  which  it  seems  to  have  been  detached  ; 
but  a  nearer  view  convinced  me  that  it  never  could  have  fallen  from  the 
summit.  Many  similar  fissures  I  observed  in  the  Alps,  and  they  are  com¬ 
mon  in  mountainous  regions.  The  frequent  springs,  oozing  through  the 
interstices  of  the  rocks,  undermine  the  foundation ;  and  the  vast  masses, 
thus  deprived  of  support,  either  sink,  or  are  separated  one  from  the  other, 
till,  by  degrees,  great  chasms  are  formed,  and  the  mountain  then  seems  to 
have  been  rent  asunder.  The  w.  side  of  the  smaller  crag  which  bounds 
the  fissure  is  wholly  overhung  with  underwood,  and  forms  a  singular  con¬ 
trast  with  the  bare  and  rugged  precipice  of  the  present  mountain. 

Among  other  delightful  situations  in  the  neighbourhod  of  Abergavenny 
is  Tydu,  the  seat  of  William  Dinwoody,  Esq.  ,*  a  spot  which  exhibits  the 
striking  characteristics  of  a  Monmouthshire  view,  where  the  extremes  of 
wildness  and  fertility  are  blended  like  the  colours  of  a  picture. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  four  hills  which  form  the  base 
of  the  Sugar-Loaf.  These  eminences  are  the  Derry,  Rolhen,  Crag  Llan- 
wenarth,  and  Llanwenarth-Mll.  They  are  separated  by  dingles,  mantled 
with  thickets  of  oaks,  and  watered  by  torrents,  which  heighten  the  eftect  of 
this  romantic  scenery  by  their  incessant  roar  and  glistening  foam.  They 
abound  with  picturesque  beauties,  and  command  extensive  prospects.  The 
traveller  is  at  one  time  enveloped  in  wood;  at  another,  views,  equally 
grand,  extensive,  and  diversified,  break  upon  the  sight. 

Skyrrid-fach  is  a  beautiful  swelling  hill,  rising  to  the  height  of  760  feet, 
richly  luxuriant  in  wood  and  pasturage,  commanding  the  most  delightful 
and  elegant  prospect  in  Monmouthshire.  Coldhrook-liouse  is  delightfully 
situated  at  the  foot  of  this  hill,  amid  grounds  beautifully  diversified  and 
richly  clothed  with  oak,  beech,  and  elm.  It  has  been  the  distinguished 
residence  of  two  persons,  equally  memorable  in  their  time,  —  Sir  Richard 
Herbert,  the  intrepid  soldier  and  flower  of  chivalry,  and  Sir  Charles  Han- 
hury  Williams,  the  polished  courtier,  and  the  votary  of  wit  and  pleasure. 
The  house  was  originally  an  irregular  edifice,  with  a  tower  at  each  angle : 
the  N.  front,  with  an  elegant  Doric  portico,  was  constructed  by  Sir  Charles 
Hanbury  Williams.  It  contains  some  family  and  other  portraits.  (See  an 
account  of  Sir  Charles,  in  Coxes  Monmouthshire,  p.  270.)  Beneath  this 
attractive  eminence,  the  vale  extends  from  Crickhowel  to  the  Clytha  hills, 
watered  by  the  Usk,  which,  meandering  through  rich  tracts  of  corn,  pasture, 
and  wood,  is  occasionally  lost  in  the  midst  of  thickets,  again  bursting  into 
view.  Above  the  right  bank  of  this  beautiful  river  extends  the  chain  of 
wooded  eminences,  from  the  extremity  of  the  Blorenge  to  the  rich  groves 
of  Pont-y-pool  Park,  Capel  Hanbury  Leigh,  Esq.  The  mansion  is  a  sub¬ 
stantial  edifice  beautifully  situated  on  a  rising  lawn  :  from  the  1.  sweeps 
the  fertile  district  in  which  the  mansions  of  Clydach,  Llanarth,  and 
Llansanffraid  are  situated.  To  the  w.  of  the  Skyrrid  rises  an  enormous 
mass  of  mountain,  among  which  are  most  conspicuous  the  towering  point 
of  the  Sugar-Loaf  and  the  magnificent  swell  of  the  Blorenge.  The  town  of 
Abergavenny  lies  below,  and  is  seen  to  great  advantage.  The  views  from 
the  Great  Skyrrid,  and  other  mountains  in  Monmouthshire,  are  more  exten¬ 
sive,  but  none  so  delightful  as  from  this. 

The  road  to  Brecon  lies  on  the  n.  side  of  the  clear  and  lively  Usk,  in  a 
romantic  valley,  accompanied  by  agreeable  scenery,  rich  groves,  and  smiling 


ABERGAVENNY. 


17 


lawns.  This  continues  the  greatest  part  of  the  road,  varied  on  the  1.  by 
the  fires  and  smoke  of  iron-works.  These,  amid  the  falling  shades  of  eve, 
impart  an  impressive  grandeur  to  the  scene.  At  a  short  distance  on  the  r. 
is  the  Hill  House,  W.  Hill,  Esq,,  surrounded  with  beautiful  oak  and  elm 
trees.  Upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  Llanfoist  House,  the  seat  of 
W.  Petre,  Esq.,  appears  to  great  advantage.  Pentre,  J.  Millar,  Esq.,  1^  m., 
above  which  stands  an  elegant  mansion  and  gardens.  At  the  distance  of 
2^  m.  stands  a  stone  to  mark  the  division  of  Monmouthshire  from  Breck¬ 
nock.  The  first  house  in  the  principality  from  this  approach  is  called 
Sunny-hank,  J.  Williams,  Esq.  Cross  the  Grwyne-fawr,  a  contributary  to 
the  Usk.  A  little  further,  in  the  middle  of  a  field,  stands  a  rude  pillar  of 
stone,  Maen-hir,  apparently  not  less  than  10  feet  high,  probably  of  Druidic 
origin.  About  2  m.  further  occurs  CRiCKHOWEii,  so  called  from  its  vicinity 
to  an  ancient  eminence,  Crug-hywel.  It  is  an  old,  meanly  built  town  ;  but, 
hanging  on  the  steep  declivities  of  a  fine  hill,  and  dignified  with  the  pictu¬ 
resque  ruin  of  a  castle,  it  forms  an  interesting  object  in  the  approach.  The 
extent  of  this  fragment  of  antiquity  is  by  no  means  considerable.  A  nar¬ 
row  Gothic  bridge  here  crosses  the  Usk  to  the  pleasing  village  of  Llangattoc, 
or  Llangattwg  Crug-hywel,  the  church  of  which  is  dedicated  to  the  British 
saint,  Cattwg.  This  neighbourhood  is  enlivened  by  several  handsome  seats. 
The  smiling  lawns  of  Dan-y-Park  are  conspicuous,  swelling  above  a  fertile 
vale,  and  backed  by  a  range  of  wild  mountains.  It  is  the  seat  of  E.  Ken¬ 
dall,  Esq.,  distant  from  Crickhowel  I  m.  This  was  formerly  the  residence 
of  the  ingenious  tourist,  Mr.  Skrine ;  but  since  his  death  it  has  undergone 
various  changes.  It  was  a  place  much  endeared  to  him.  With  respect  to 
excellence  of  position  and  singularity  of  design,  the  most  remarkable  is  the 
newly-erected  residence  of  Admiral  Gell.  Gwern  Vale,  the  seat  of  J.  Gwyn, 
Esq.  Opposite  is  the  residence  of  the  Rev.  Wm.  Somerset,  rector  of  Llan¬ 
gattoc.  In  the  vicinity  of  Llangattoc,  in  the  vale  of  Usk,  stands  Pen-y- 
miarth,  an  eminence  nearly  insulated  by  distant  surrounding  mountains 
much  higher  than  itself.  Its  apex  is  an  extensive  flat,  and  forms  an  ancient 
fortification,  commanding  most  interesting  views.  The  road  continues  scenic 
and  entertaining  to  the  small  village  of  Tretower,  remarkable  only  for  a  few 
picturesque  fragments  of  its  castle,  once  the  residence  of  Mynarch,  Lord  of 
Brecon.  Then,  winding  round  a  conic  eminence,  the  road  ascends  a  mighty 
hill,  called  the  Bwlch  ;  during  which  ascent,  a  farewell  view  of  the  Vale  of 
Usk  and  its  appendages  is  truly  interesting  and  grand.  But  from  these 
wide  ranging  views  and  external  scenery,  the  tourist  becomes  shut  up,  on 
entering  the  bwlch  or  pass  of  the  mountains  (a  sterile  hollow),  from  which 
he  emerges  on  a  subject  of  an  entirely  opposite  and  very  singular  descrip¬ 
tion.  Surrounded  by  dark  mountains,  melancholy  and  waste,  appears  an 
extensive  lake,  called  Llyn  Safaddau,  or  Langors  Pool,  upwards  of  6  m.  in 
circumference.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  lake,  s.  and  near  the  head  of 
Afon  Llyvni,  which  empties  itself  into  the  pool,  is  Blaen  Llyvni  Castle,  It 
was  fortified  by  Peter  Fitzherbert,  who  was  a  descendant  of  Bernard  de  New- 
march.  Lord  of  Brecon.  The  road  soon  leads  to  the  fine  Vale  of  Brecon, 
grandly  accompanied  by  a  semicircular  range  of  mountains ;  where  the  Van 
proudly  rears  its  furrowed  and  cloven  summit  high  above  the  clouds.  Ad¬ 
vancing,  cultivation  takes  a  more  extensive  sweep,  and  picturesque  disposi¬ 
tion  becomes  frequent.  The  Usk,  flowing  round  the  foot  of  the  Mynydd 
Buckland,  clothed  with  the  extensive  plantations  of  Thynne  Howe  Gwynne, 
Esq.,  Buckland  House,  salutes  the  beholder  with  renewed  attractions  ;  and, 
farther  up  the  vale,  the  charming  woody  eminence  of  Peterstone  Court, 
Rev.  Thomas  Powell,  is  laved  by  its  sinuous  career.  On  the  1.  of  the  road, 

0 


18 


ABERGAVENNY. 


about  5  m.  from  Brecon,  is  'a  stone  pillar,  6  feet  in  height  and  nearly 
cylindrical,  on  which  is  an  inscription,  which  Camden  read,  N.  —  Filius  Vic¬ 
torina,  but  which  is  now  almost  obliterated.  In  the  parish  of  Llan  Hamma- 
leah,  standing  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  near  the  church,  (which  is  to  the  1.  of 
the  road,  a  little  beyond  the  former  monument,)  is  Maenllltyd,  or  St.  Illtyd’s 
Hermitage,  composed  of  four  large  flat  stones,  three  of  which,  standing  up¬ 
right,  are  surmounted  by  a  fourth,  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  hut,  8  feet 
long  by  4  wide,  and  nearly  4  in  height.  This  kind  of  monument  is 
called  Cist-tmen,  a  variety  of  the  cromlech,  and  supposed  to  have  been  applied 
to  the  same  purposes.  —  J.  T.  Barber. 

Independently  of  the  churches  he  founded,  the  memory  of  Illtyd  is 
honoured  on  account  of  his  having  introduced  among  them  an  improved 
m'ethod  of  ploughing.  Before  his  time,  the  Welsh  were  accustomed  to 
cultivate  their  grounds  with  the  mattock  and  over-treading  plough  (aradr 
arsang),  implements  which  were  still  used  by  the  Irish.  He  flourished  in 
the  sixth  century. 

To  THE  NORTH  OF  Abergavenny  stretches  a  mountainous  district,  con¬ 
taining  very  romantic  features.  IJanfihangel-crugcorneu,  situated  at  the 
extremity  of  the  pass  between  the  Skyrrid  and  the  Black  Mountains,  5  m. 
from  Abergavenny,  might  be  the  centre  of  several  excursions. 

Two  miles  from  Llanfihangel,  close  to  the  Hereford  road,  is  Great  Camp- 
ston  (where  Charles  I.,  is  said  to  have  passed  a  night),  formerly  the  seat  of 
the  Arnolds,  one  of  whom  sold  it  to  Auditor  Harley,  and  it  is  at  present 
the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Oxford,  and  occupied  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Powell. 
The  house  contains  only  some  ancient  furniture  and  family  pictures ;  but 
the  surrounding  groves  of  oaks,  Spanish  chesnuts,  and  Scotch  firs,  uncom¬ 
monly  large  and  fine,  are  well  worth  attention.  The  isolated  mountain  of 
Skyrrid-mawr  is  at  a  short  distance  from  the  house.  Seen  from  one  point 
it  appears  a  large  barrow,  from  another  of  a  globular  form ;  from  others  a 
truncated  cone.  The  height  of  the  loftiest  part,  according  to  General  Roy, 
is  1498  feet.  Upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  turnpike-road  is  an  ancient 
encampment,  called  Campston  Hill,  probably  Roman,  for  antiquaries  are  not 
agreed  upon  any  criteria  whereby  sueh  places  of  defence  may  be  distin¬ 
guished.  They  are  described  as  British,  Roman,  Saxon,  Danish,  or  Nor¬ 
man,  according  to  the  bias  of  the  writer.  The  circumstance  of  Roman 
coins  being  found  at  or  near  them  is  certainly  not  a  criterion.  Long  after 
the  departure  of  the  Romans  from  this  country  their  currency  continued  to 
circulate  among  the  Britons,  and  during  the  ensuing  commotions  much  was 
secreted.  From  this  eminence  may  be  seen  the  recesses  of  the  Black  Moun¬ 
tains,  and  the  range  of  hills  which  extend  from  Abergavenny  beyond  the 
frontiers  of  Brecknockshire  and  Herefordshire.  Four  m.  from  Campston, 
on  the  ROAD  from  Abergavenny  to  Hereford,  is  Llangua,  the  site  of  a 
priory  of  black  monks ;  but  not  a  vestige  remains.  The  tourist  should  not 
omit  to  traverse  the  road  from  Llangua  to  Campston,  which  commands  a 
delightful  view  of  the  mountains  in  the  n.  part  of  the  country.  Several 
Roman  coins  have  been  dug  up  here  ;  hence  Harris  would  infer,  with  great 
uncertainty,  that  it  had  been  formed  by  the  Romans. 

The  summit  of  Gaer  furnishes  an  example  of  a  Roman  camp.  The 
Romans  made  their  camps  frequently  rectangular,  sometimes  square,  some¬ 
times  oblong,  with  the  corners  generally  rounded ;  a  peculiarity  which  that 
people  adopted  in  their  stone  walls  as  well  as  earthen  enclosures.  Roman 
stations  must  never  be  looked  for  on  high  mountains,  but  upon  gentle  emi¬ 
nences,  whence  they  were  able  to  see  the  Britons  at  a  distance. 

Two  high  roads  lead  from  Abergavenny  to  Monmouth  ;  one  by  Cold- 


ABERGAVENNY. 


19 


■brook  House  through  Bryngwyn,  Tregaer,  and  Dynastow ;  and  the  other, 
shorter  but  more  hilly,  through  Llanvapley,  Llandeilo  Cresseney,  and  Rock- 
Jield.  Llandeilo  Cresseney,  midway  between  Abergavenny  and  Monmouth, 

is  the  seat  of  - -  Taddy,  Esq.,  standing  in  a  fertile,  enclosed,  and  richly 

wooded  country,  commanding  extensive  views  of  the  distant  hills  and  moun¬ 
tains.  It  was  the  seat  of  the  younger  branch  of  the  Powels.  On  the  ex¬ 
tinction  of  the  male  line,  it  came  by  marriage  into  the  family  of  Lewis, 
Among  the  portraits  here  preserved  is  that  of  the  eccentric  James  Howell, 
author  of  the  Familiar  Letters.” 

In  a  field  adjoining  Llandeilo  House,  is  the  site  of  Old  Court,  the  resi¬ 

dence  of  the  celebrated  David  Gam,  or  Squinting  David.  He  was  the  fourth 
in  descent  from  Einion  Sais,  who  served  in  the  proud  battles  of  Cressy  and 
Poictiers.  His  life  was  disgraced  by  violence  and  rapine,  and,  above  all,  by 
his  attempt  to  assassinate  the  brave  Owen  Glyndwr.  [See  Machynllaeth.] 
He  was  knighted  for  his  services  at  the  battle  of  Agincourt,  by  King 
Henry  V.,  on  the  field  of  death.  To  the  s.  of  the  high  road  are  the  se¬ 
questered  ruins  of  the  Abbey  of  Grace  Dieu,  founded  in  122Q  by  John  of 
Monmouth.  On  the  road  to  Monmouth  visit  Ragland  Castle.  Leav¬ 
ing  Abergavenny,  keep  by  the  side  of  the  ground  belonging  to  the  park  of 
Sir  Hanbury  Williams,  where  the  hand  of  art  has  been  successfully  busy. 
Behind,  the  little  Skyrrid  rears  its  variegated  head.  From  this  place  the 
vale  becomes  more  expanded,  by  the  fantastic  Usk.  At  the  5th  milestone 
on  the  r.  is  the  seat  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Hooper,  interestingly  embellished.  On 

the  1.  is  the  neat  cottage  of - Green,  Esq.  Beyond  is  a  plantation  of  firs  by 

the  road  side,  bespeaking  the  approach  to  Clytha,  the  seat  of  W.  Jones,  Esq. 
The  entrance  is  through  a  light  Gothic  arch.  The  pleasure-ground  is  laid 
out  with  much  taste  and  judgment.  The  mansion  is  also  Gothic,  placed 
upon  a  summit,  commanding  views  exquisitely  beautiful.  The  residence 
of  Dr.  Hooper  is  hence  peculiarly  attractive,  and  the  grounds  behind  are 
tastefully  improved.  Upon  an  eminence  opposite  to  Clytha  is  a  castellated 
building,  erected,  as  a  monument  of  domestic  affection,  to  a  woman  of  un¬ 
common  excellence,  the  heiress  of  the  house  of  Tredegar,  who,  with  her 
hand,  bestowed  on  the  present  proprietor  a  very  splendid  fortune.  To  the 
1.  is  Llanarth.  [See  Monmouth.]  On  reaching  the  summit  of  the  hill 
may  be  seen  an  extensive  view  of  the  Usk,  gliding  behind  a  fertilised  hill. 
Leaving  the  direct  road  to  Monmouth  to  the  1.,  keep  to  the  r.  to  Ragland. 
Proceeding  3  m.,  Dynastow  Court  occurs  on  the  r.  In  early  times,  an  en¬ 
raged  party,  after  storming  Abergavenny,  came  hither  and  made  a  general 
carnage.  Ranulph,  the  governor,  and  other  active  defenders  fell,  the  victims. 
Though  often  mentioned  as  a  castle,  this  edifice  seems  to  have  been  little 
more  than  a  manor-house.  It  was  included  among  the  possessions  of  the 
Earl  of  Pembroke  who  was  decapitated  in  1469*  It  came  afterwards  into 
the  family  of  Jones,  was  purchased  by  Mr.  Duberly,  and  is  now  the  resi¬ 
dence  of  Samuel  Bosanquet,  Esq. 

To  the  Hay,  about  2  m.  from  Abergavenny,  occurs  Llandeilo  Bertholeu, 
in  which  parish  Rood  is  situate.  The  church  is  an  ancient  structure,  in 
the  early  style  of  Gothic  architecture,  standing  upon  the  e.  bank  of  the, 
Gavenny.  A  curious  deed  is  preserved  here,  containing  a  grant  of  pasturage 
and  other  liberties  in  the  forest  of  Moyle  from  Jasper,  Duke  of  Bedford,  as 
Lord  of  Abergavenny,  to  the  parishioners.  At  a  short  distance  is  the  White 
House,  the  residence  of  the  Floyers.  Three  m.  further  is  the  village  of 
Llanfihangel-crugcorneu.  Cross  the  Honddu  river,  and  proceed  4  m.  to 
Oldcastle,  leaving  on  the  1.  a  house  called  Trewyn,  and  on  the  r.  another, 

c  2 


20 


ABERGAVENNY. 


called  Allt’rynys,  in  a  singularly  picturesque  situation^  beneath  the  junction 
of  the  Honddu  and  the  My  now,  a  seat  of  the  Cecil  family. 

From  Abergavenny,  the  Gentleman  Tourist  in  Monmouthshire,”  in 
directing  his  course  to  Pont-y-Pool  forded  the  river,  in  order  to  avoid  going 
1  m.  round  to  the  bridge.  After  remarking  that  the  Blorenge  is  a  grand 
object  from  the  main  street  of  Abergavenny,  he  observes  that,  besides 
the  infinite  variety  -of  picturesque  scenery  which  attaches  to  this  mountain, 
the  prospects  from  the  ascent  are  extensive  and  infinitely  luxuriant.  The 
highest  summit  is  only  accessible  on  one  side,  as  its  barren  top  towers  very 
high  above  the  woods  and  fields  which  adorn  the  base.  Blaenavon  is  a  large 
village,  situated  in  a  bleak  and  mountainous  country,  constantly  involved  in 
smoke,  emitted  in  thick  clouds  from  the  contiguous  iron-works.  The  church 
is,  however,  remarkably  neat.  Hence,”  says  our  Tourist,  “we  followed,” — 
for  he  had  that  most  desirable  and  charming  of  accompaniments  on  a  journey, 
a  congenial  companion — we  followed  no  beaten  track,  but  explored  the 
dreariness  of  a  heath,  where  no  tracks  had  been  impressed,  except  by  the 
mountain  sheep.  Persisting  in  this  rugged  course,  and  regardless  of  every 
obstacle,  we  walked  forward,  and  soon  found  ourselves  on  the  brow  of  a 
mountain.  We  saw  the  Severn  at  a  great  distance,  admixed  with  vapour, 
and  by  the  assistance  of  a  pocket  telescope  discovered  the  town  of  Pont-y- 
Pool.  The  features  of  the  country  being  clear,  we  hastily  descended,  and 
followed  a  footpath  leading  through  a  romantic  tract  of  hollow  dells  and 
yawning  precipices  overhung  with  wood.  The  tramroad  was  now  the  best 
way  to  Pont-y-Pool.” 

Turnpike-road  to  Crtokhowel.  At  a  short  distance  on  r.  Hill  House y 
unoccupied ;  Bricket  House,  T.  Morgan,  Esq, ;  and  on  the  1.  Llanfoist 
House,  R.  Wheeley,  Esq.  To  Pentre  1^  m.  Llangrwyne.  Inn,  The 
Bell,  m.  (Near,  on  the  r.,  Sunny-hank,  J.  D.  Thomson  ;  on  1.  Han-y- 
graig,  J.  Wood,  Esq.)  At  a  short  distance  cross  the  Grwyne  river,  which 
runs  on  the  1.  to  the  Usk.  Crickhowel,  1  m.  7  f-j  amounting  to  6  m.  If. 

To  Merthyr  TYDFit.  Passing  over  the  Usk,  at  the  w.  end  of  the  town, 
we  turn  to  the  r.  by  the  chapel  of  Llo.nfoist,  amidst  a  busy  scene,  occasioned 
by  the  descent  of  the  trams,  upon  inclined  planes,  down  the  Blorenge. 
Leaving  Llanfoist  House  and  lawn  on  the  1 ,  we  reach  the  village  of  Waun 
Govilon.  1  m.  further  occurs  the  Beaufort  Arms  inn.  Another  mile  brings 
the  traveller  to  Llanelly.  The  canal  at  the  Beaufort  Arms  crosses  the 
valley  by  means  of  an  aqueduct.  On  the  r.  is  a  road  leading  to  Crickhowel. 
Proceeding  hence  up  the  valley,  our  attention  is  arrested  by  immense 
volumes  of  flame  and  smoke  issuing  from  the  forge  and  blast  furnaces  of 
Llanelly  works,  the  property  of  E.  Frese,  Esq.  The  pass  between  the  hills 
is  here  contracted,  the  road  being  formed  out  of  the  side  of  the  mountain. 
Five  m.  from  Llanelly  is  Rhyd-y-hlew.  Here  a  good  road  and  railway  turn 
on  the  1.  to  Nant-y-glo,  where  extensive  iron- works  are  carried  on  by  J.  and  C. 
Bailey,  Esqrs.  Returning  to  the  road,  proceed  2  m.  further,  over  an  open 
and  barren  heath,  to  other  iron-works,  called  Beaufort  Furnace,  belonging 
to  Messrs.  J,  and  C.  Bailey.  One  m.  below,  in  the  same  vale,  are  the  works 
of  Messrs.  Harford  and  Co.,  called  Ebhw  Vale  Furnace,  from  the  river  which 
passes  down  here,  and  at  length  unites  with  the  Sirpowy.  On  new-year’s 
day,  1839:,  t^ie  large  engine  for  blowing  the  blast  furnaces  of  the  Victoria 
iron-works  was  started  for  the  first  time.  It  has  been  constructed  at  Neath 
Abbey,  and  a  beautiful  piece  of  machinery  and  display  of  science  we  under¬ 
stand  it  is.  The  blowing  cylinder  is  the  largest  in  Monmouthshire,  and 
equal  to  the  largest  in  Glamorganshire,  being  122  inches  in  diameter.  The 
make”  of  iron  by  this  company  has  not  yet  been  very  great,  as  it  appears 


ABERGELE. 


21 


to  have  been  their  design^  during  the  short  time  the  furnaces  have  been  in 
operation,  rather  to  arrive  at  superiority  of  quality ;  and  in  this  we  learn 
that  they  have  been  eminently  successful.  It  is  expected  that  they  will 
soon  get  another  furnace  in  blast,  owing  to  the  great  auxiliary  which  the 
company  now  have,  and  the  considerable  increase  of  mine  and  coal  which 
their  workings”  daily  afford  them.  The  road  over  another  hill  leads  to 
Sirhowy  and  Tredegar  iron-works,  which  leave  on  the  1.,  if  desirable,  to  pro¬ 
ceed  the  direct  way  to  Merthyr-TydfiL  Sirhowy  works  are  now  become 
the  property  of  the  Harfords,  proprietors  of  Ebbw  Vale.  They  were  estab¬ 
lished  long  before  Tredegar  had  a  name.  Tredegar  is  now  become  a  market 
town,  but,  being  6  m.  from  its  parish  church,  a  chapel  of  ease  is  erected.  There 
are  two  good  inns  at  Tredegar,  but  neither  of  them  supply  post-horses.  The 
iron  is  eonveyed  by  a  railway  to  Newport,  distant  23  m.,,  where  it  is  shipped 
for  different  parts  of  the  kingdom.  At  Risca  is  a  bridge  of  thirty-four 
arches,  to  preserve  the  level  across  the  valley.  The  works  of  Tredegar  are 
held  under  a  lease  from  Sir  C.  Morgan,  Bart.,  by  Messrs.  Homfray  and  Co. 
The  land  of  this  district,  though  unproductive  above,  contains  immense  trea¬ 
sures  below.  The  refuse  of  the  mines  produces  great  inequalities,  and  exhibits 
the  immense  labour  by  which  these  subterranean  operations  are  effected. 
Large  standing  pools,  of  several  acres  in  extent,  occur  on  this  road,  which 
form  reservoirs  for  supplying  steam-engines  with  water.  Proceeding  from 
Tredegar  by  Sirhowy,  join  the  turnpike-road  leading  to  Merthyr,  distant 
7  m.,  over  an  open,  bleak,  and  mountainous  district.  At  3  j  miles  cross  the 
Rumney,  which  divides  the  counties  of  Monmouth  and  Glamorgan.  Before 
we  reach  the  bridge  is  a  public-house,  and  below  are  the  Rumney  upper  and 
lower  furnaces,  wrought  by  a  joint-stock  company.  Proceeding  over  the  hill, 
pass  some  large  reservoirs  of  water,  and,  descending,  reach  Dowlais,  the 
property  of  Sir  J.  Guest,  M.  P.,  whose  highly  accomplished  lady  is  rescuing 
from  oblivion  the  Mabinogion,  those  bardic  and  historical  remains  which 
throw  so  much  light  upon  the  manners  and  history  of  Wales  and  England. 
The  first  part  of  her  splendid  work  contains  a  translation  of  an  Arthurian 
tale,  preserved  in  Jesus  College,  Cambridge.  Pass  by  Pen-y-darren  iron¬ 
works,  and  enter  Merthyr-Tydfil,  where  are  two  good  inns.  Fishing  sta¬ 
tion,  Llanelly,  4  m.  Angle  upwards,  towards  Crickhowel. 

To  Brecon,  20  miles.  Barber.  To  Crickhowel,  6  miles.  Warner. 

Monmouth,  16|  miles.  Coxe;  Manby.  Llanthony  Abbey,  11  miles.  Skrine, 

•  Ragland  Castle,  Smiles.  J. Evans  ;  Wyndham. 


ABERGELE. 


From  St.  Asaph,  7  miles.  Bingley  ;  Skrine. 
Llandudno,  14  miles.  Aikin. 
Rhyddlan,  5  miles.  Warner  j  Pugh. 


From  Conway,  12  miles.  Wyndham ;  Pennant. 
Dyserth,  8  miles. 

Llandulas,  2^  miles. 


ABERGELE  is  a  market-town  of  Denbighshire,  of  considerable  resort 
on  account  of  its  large  cattle-fairs.  It  it  much  frequented  in  the  bathing 
season,  there  being  excellent  sands  :  the  neighbourhood  abounds  with  much 
beautiful  scenery.  Three  points  of  excellence  combine  to  render  this  a 
most  desirable  retreat  for  the  invalid ;  the  salubrity  of  the  air,  the  amenity 
of  its  locality,  and  the  convenience  of  the  shore  for  sea  bathing.  Nothing 
would  tend  more  to  promote  the  prosperity  of  this  favourite  resort  than  the 
erection  of  villas  and  good  lodging  houses  on  the  shore.  By  this  arrange¬ 
ment  much  inconvenience  would  be  avoided,  and  the  place  rendered  even 

c  3 


22 


ABERGELE. 


more  attractive  than  it  is«  Situated  upon  the  edge  of  Khuddlan  Marsh,  it 
consists  of  only  one  street.  The  Bee  and  Union  Hotel  are  superior  inns, 
affording  unusual  comforts;  but  lodgings  may  be  had  at  private  houses.  In 
18. SI  the  population  amounted  to  2506, 

Having  passed  this  village,  on  the  road  to  Llandulas,  the  sea  is  beheld 
on  the  r.  and  a  range  of  low  rocks  on  the  1.  from  the  foot  of  which  meadows 
and  arable  fields  extend  nearly  to  the  water. 

In  the  neighbouring  parish  of  Cegidog,  or  Saint  George,  on  the  road  to 
St.  Asaph,  upon  the  summit  of  Pen-y-Parc,  is  a  very  strong  fortress,  said 
to  have  been  occupied  by  Owain  Gwynedd,  after  his  fine  retreat  before 
Henry  II.  Kinmel  House  (after  a  design  by  Mr.  Samuel  M^yatt)  and 
park,  Colonel  Hughes,  are  upon  a  declivity  on  the  1.  A  more  splendid 
mansion  stationed  at  a  short  distance  from  the  former,  was  completed  in 
1810.  The  park  is  finely  wooded,  and  well  stocked  with  deer.  The  gate¬ 
way  from  Abergele  is  very  highly  finished  :  Egyptian  lions  are  upon  the 
pediments,  and  goats’  heads  support  the  cornices,  &c.  In  a  wet  situation 
beneath  is  Faenol,  one  of  the  best  old  houses  in  the  county  of  Flint ;  built, 
in  1595,  by  Mr.  John  Lloyd.  In  this  neighbourhood  are  Bodelwiddan,  (a 
seat  of  Sir  J.  Williams,  Bart.,  who  has  for  some  years  distributed  premiums 
among  the  most  deserving  of  his  tenants,)  also  Pengwern,  a  new  house  erected 
upon  the  site  of  an  old  one  by  Sir  Edward  Lloyd,  Bart.  Mr.  Pennant  passed 
hence,  through  Ruddland  and  Newmarket,  to  the  comforts  of  his  fire-side., 
A  huge  calcareous  rock,  at  the  termination  of  1  m.,  called  Cefn~yr-Ogo,  or 
the  Back  of  the  Cavern,  particularly  struck  the  attention  of  Mr.  Warner, 
in  which  he  observed  many  natural  caverns  penetrating  the  side  of  the 
mountain.  To  one,  called  Ogo,  he  ascended.  Its  aperture  resembles  the 
arched  entrance  of  a  Gothic  cathedral.  A  tall  columnar  rock,  like  a  rudely 
sculptured  massive  pillar,  divides  this  subterranean  wonder  into  two  apart¬ 
ments.  That  which  turns  to  the  right  becomes  a  spacious  chamber,  30 
feet  high,  and  extends  to  an  unknown  depth  into  the  interior  of  the  moun¬ 
tain.  The  sides  and  roof  of  this  remarkable  cavern  are  adorned  with  bril¬ 
liant  stalactites  ranged  on  each  side  like  the  pipes  of  an  organ.  The  floor 
is  covered  with  ponderous  masses  of  deep  orange- coloured  stalagmite,  pro¬ 
ducing  the  most  grotesque  and  beautiful  forms.  This  cavernous  region 
is  also  called  Cave  Hill.  At  the  distance  of  m.  from  Abergele,  is  a 
spot  almost  unknown,  except  to  the  rude  inhabitants  of  the  neighbour¬ 
hood.  It  derives  its  name  from  contiguous  immense  caverns,  said  to  be  of 
unfathomable  extent.  This  eminence  closely  overlooks  the  expanded 
ocean,  commanding  one  of  the  most  varied  and  delightful  prospects.  To 
the  E.  is  an  uninterrupted  view  of  St.  Asaph,  the  beautiful  Vale  of 
Clywd,  and  the  Flintshire  mountains,  along  the  coast  is  presented  con¬ 
siderable  part  of  the  counties  of  Cheshire  and  Lancashire,  with  the  fine 
commercial  town  of  Liverpool :  sweeping  the  horizon,  you  obtain  also  a 
distant  view  of  the  Isle  of  Man,  and,  more  westerly,  that  of  Anglesea  :  the 
circle  closes  with  the  lofty  mountains  of  Caernarvonshire.  The  credulity 
of  the  honest  sons  of  Cadwallader  in  this  district  is  so  strongly  mixed  with 
superstitious  fancies  as  to  cause  them  implicitly  to  believe  that  these 
caverns  are  haunted.  The  old  women  show  the  entrances  with  counte¬ 
nances  full  of  gravity,  assuring  the  stranger  that  the  passage  of  one  leads 
directly  under  London-bridge,  and  tbe  other  to  Chester.  The  woodbine- 
covered  cot,  and  grass-green  plat,”  of  Lieut.  Benjamin  Smith,  of  the  royal 
navy,  is  situated  upon  Cave  Hill,  who  commands  a  post  station  there  for  the 
purpose  of  guarding  the  coast  from  the  attempts  of  an  enemy.  — European 
Mag.  vol.  lii.  p,  210. 


ABERYSTWITH. 


S3 


To  Conway,  1  m.  beyond,  on  the  r.,  is  Gwyrch  Castle,  the  property  and 
residence  of  Henry  Lloyd  Bamford  Hesketh,  Esq.  It  is  situated  upon  a 
rocky  eminence.  The  front  extends  nearly  500  yards.  On  each  side  there 
is  a  noble  terrace,  420  yards  in  length.  The  west  entrance  is  through 
a  lofty  arch,  flanked  by  two  embattled  towers :  of  these,  the  principal, 
called  Hesketh  Tower,  is  Q3  feet  high.  The  site  of  this  splendid  mansion 
affords  a  most  interesting  view  of  the  ocean  and  its  concomitants.  More 
than  200  sail  in  a  tide,  beside  steam-vessels  are  sometimes  seen  gliding  in 
various  directions  over  the  bosom  of  the  mighty  deep. 

'  To  the  w.  of  Abergele  the  country  becomes  more^  elevated,  rising  into 
limestone  hills,  in  which  lead  ore  has  frequently  been  found.  Upon  one  of 
these,  called  Cappa-yr-Wylfa,  or  the  Mount  of  the  Watch-tower,  are  the 
remains  of  a  strong  British  post.  The  accessible  parts  were  strongly 
defended. 

Turn  towards  Llandrillo,  near  Little  Orme’s  Head,  to  see  the  ruins  of 
one  of  Ednyfed  Fychan’s  houses,  called  Bryn-Euryn.  Its  situation  is  fine. 
Resuming  the  road  towards  Conway  Ferry,  the  country  is  beautiful  and 
woody.  The  valley  soon  opens  discovering  one  of  the  finest  pictures  in 
nature. 


To  Llandulas,  2i  miles.  Bingley  ;  Warner’s  2d 
Walk. 

St.  Asaph,  7  miles.  Atkin  j  Wyndham.;^ 


Conway,  12 miles.  Warner;  Pugh. 

End  of  Mr.  Pennant’s  Journey  to  Snowdon. 
To  Ruddlan,  5  miles.  Skrine. 


ABERYSTWITH. 


From  Machynlleth,  18  miles.  Aikin, 

Aberaeron,  16  miles.  Barber  ;  .Skrine. 
Aberaeron  (through  Llanrhystyd)  16  miles. 
Wyndham. 

Pont-y-Mynach,  11 A  miles._Malkin  ;  War^ 
ner  ;  Lipscomb. 


From  Newcastle  in  Emlyn.  Evans. 

Towyn,  12  miles.  Warner. 
Llan'badarn-fawr,  Wyndham’s 

2d  tour.^ 


ABERYSTWITH,  a  sea-port,  borough,  market-town,  and  chapelry,  in 
the  parish  of  Llanbadarn  Vawr,  Cardiganshire,  is  a  delightful  summer  re¬ 
treat,  situated  on  the  conflux  of  the  rivers  Ystwith  and  Rheidol.  Of  late, 
this  watering-place  has  greatly  improved,  both  in  extent,  convenience,  and 
importance,  forming  at  present  the  largest  town  in  the  county  ;  and  the 
roads  leading  to  it  are  equal  to  the  best  in  England.  The  gentle  inclina¬ 
tion  of  the  beach,  situated  in  a  noble  bay,  the  clearness  of  the  water,  salu¬ 
brity  of  the  air  and  the  neighbouring  springs,  have  established  its  reputation 
as  an  excellent  resort  for  invalids,  who  can  here  enjoy  every  luxury  con¬ 
nected  with  sea-bathing.  The  houses  are  in  general  well  built,  many  large 
and  handsome,  and  the  streets  regular,  well-paved,  and  macadamised. 
Aberystwith  is  a  borough  by  prescription.  The  government  is  vested  in  a 
mayor,  recorder,  chamberlain,  and  common  burgesses,  assisted  by  a  town- 
clerk  and  subordinate  officers.  It  is  one  of  the  contributary  boroughs  of 
Cardiganshire  who  return  one  member  to  parliament.  The  right  of  elec¬ 
tion  is  now  in  the  resident  burgesses,  and  all  persons  occupying  a  house  or 
other  premises  of  the  clear  annual  value  of  ten  pounds.  The  mayor  of 
Cardigan  is  the  returning  officer.  Aberystwith  was  once  fortified  with 
walls,  a  portion  of  which,  stripped  of  its  facings,  still  remains  on  the  shore. 
The  Castle,  situated  west  of  the  town,  on  a  bold  eminence  projecting  into 
the  sea,  was  founded  in  1109^  by  Gilbert  de  Strongbow,  son  of  Richard  de 
Clare,  who,  having  obtained  permission  of  Henry  I.  to  dispossess  Cadwgan 
ab  Bleddyn  of  all  the  lands  he  could  wrest  from  him  by  superior  force, 

c  4 


24 


ABERYSTWITH. 


invaded  Cardiganshire^  subdued  it  without  much  difficulty,  and  erected  a 
number  of  fortresses.  About  the  year  1113,  prince  Gruffydd  ah  Rhys, 
having  attacked  with  success  the  castles  of  several  of  the  Norman  lords, 
and  devastated  their  estates,  failed  in  his  attempt  on  the  castle  of  Aber- 
ystwith.  Llywelyn  ah  Jorwerth,  the  reigning  prince  of  N.  Wales  in  1208, 
marched  an  army  against  Maelgwyn  ah  Rhys,  who,  not  being  able  to  resist 
him,  destroyed  his  castles,  and  withdrew.  Llywelyn  rebuilt  the  castle.  In 
1212  it  fell  into  the  possession  of  the  English,  but  was  soon  afterwards 
seized  and  dismantled  by  Maelgwyn,  and  Rhys  Vychan.  In  1277  it  was 
rebuilt  by  Edward  I.  This  was  a  fortress  of  great  strength,  and  once  the 
residence  of  Cadwalladr,  It  was  used  as  a  mint  by  Charles  I.,  and  held 
some  time  after  his  decease  by  the  royal  troops,  but  afterwards  it  sustained 
an  assault  from  Cromwell,  who  effected  its  demolition  from  Pendinas  Hill,  a 
neighbouring  eminence.  On  the  n.  w.  is  a  tower  about  40  feet  high,  in 
which  an  arched  doorway  still  remains.  This  ruin  is  now  the  property  of 
the  Duke  of  Newcastle.  The  late  proprietor,  Mr.  Jones,  of  Havod,  granted 
a  lease  of  it  to  Mr.  Prohert,  an  agent  of  Earl  Powis,  when  an  excellent 
promenade  was  formed,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  whole  of  Car¬ 
digan  Bay.  This  vast  curve  is  formed  by  the  projecting  counties  of 
Caernarvon  to  the  north  and  Pembroke  to  the  south;  the  coasts  of  Merioneth 
and  Cardigan  occupy  the  centre.  No  situation  south  of  Caernarvon  affords 
so  advantageous  a  prospect  of  the  Welsh  Alps  as  this  and  the  adjacent 
cliffs.  The  lofty  hills  which  confine  the  estuary  of  the  Dyfi,  and  elevate 
their  broad  ridges  far  above  the  Cardigan  rocks  are  surmounted  by  Cader 
Idris  and  its  subordinate  eminences.  These  are  overtopped  by  the  gigantic 
mountains  of  Caernarvonshire,  among  which,  in  clear'^weather,  the  sharp 
peak  of  Snowdon  may  be  discerned,  in  sublime  pre-eminence,  towering  above 
the  adjacent  crags.  The  boundary  line  becomes  more  uniform  to  the  south. 
This  magnificent  bay  is  also  agreeably  diversified  by  the  transit  of  numerous 
vessels  in  every  direction.  North  of  the  castle  is  a  level  beach,  to  which 
succeeds  a  long  range  of  lofty  slate  rocks,  rendered  cavernous  by  the  action 
of  the  waves.  At  the  base  of  these  cliffs  extends  a  reef  of  subordinate 
rocks,  adorned  with  numerous  beautiful  corallines,  fuci,  and  a  variety 
of  marine  productions,  valuable  pebbles,  agates,  conglomerates,  jaspers, 
moccos,  trapstonos,  &c.  These  are  set  and  mounted  in  gold,  into  brooches, 
bracelets,  seals,  &c.,  by  working  jewellers. 

The  Church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Michael,  and  detached  from  the  castle 
ruins  by  a  stone  wall.  It  was  erected  in  1786,  but,  being  found  too  small 
for  the  convenience  of  a  rapidly  increasing  population,  it  has  been  lately 
taken  down,  and  superseded  by  a  handsome  new  structure,  in  the  modern 
Gothic  style,  after  a  plan  by  Mr.  Haycock,  at  an  expense  of  3500/.,  afford¬ 
ing  accommodation  for  1100  persons.  The  present  incumbent  is  the  Rev. 
John  Hughes,  a  minister  eminent  for  his  talent,  piety,  and  apostolical  zeal. 
There  are  two  full  English  services  and  one  lYelsh  performed  every  sab¬ 
bath,  besides  one  in  each  language  during  the  week.  Mr.  Hughes  is 
assisted  in  these  arduous  duties  by  a  curate.  It  is  in  contemplation  to 
build  a  new  church  here  immediately,  expressly  for  the  elsh  service.  A 
fine  toned  organ,  by  Robson,  has  recently  been  added  to  the  church,  at  an 
expense  of  350/.,  defrayed  by  voluntary  subscription  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  new  church  now  in  progress  at  Llangorwen,  in  this  vicinity,  promises 
to  be  the  best  specimen  of  ecclesiastical  architecture  within  that  district. 

The  Harbour,  notwithstanding  considerable  improvements,  is  still  in  so 
bad  a  state  as  to  form  a  serious  drawback  to  the  commercial  interests  of  the 
town.  A  new  act  of  parliament  was,  however,  obtained,  enabling  the  trus- 


ABERYSTWITH. 


25 


tees  to  borrow,  on  the  credit  of  the  dues,  a  larger  sum  of  money  than  the 
old  act  empowered,  in  order  to  carry  into  effect  the  works  recommended  by 
the  late  Mr.  Nimmo,  and  the  present  engineer,  Mr.  Bush.  These  works 
are  now  in  progress,  and  are  estimated  to  cost  14,000/.  Part  of  these 
improvements,  consisting  of  a  substantial  pier,  has  already  been  carried  out 
to  a  considerable  extent  on  the  south  side  of  the  bar,  and,  when  the  whole 
shall  be  completed,  an  important  increase  in  the  trade  of  this  port  is  con¬ 
fidently  anticipated.  A  bridge,  forming  part  of  the  harbour  works  has 
been  thrown  over  the  river  Ystwith,  which  the  visiters  in  the  season  avail 
themselves  of  to  make  excursions  to  the  beach,  rocks  and  heights  on  the 
south  side  of  the  town,  abounding  in  attractions,  but  hitherto  entirely 
inaccessible. 

The  Custom-house,  erected  in  1773,  has  been  superseded  by  a  new  one, 
built  conveniently  for  the  shipping,  and  overlooking  the  harbour.  A  gate¬ 
way  at  the  south  end  of  the  terrace  forms  the  entrance  to  the  Castle-house, 
erected  by  the  late  Sir  Uvedale  Price,  Bart.,  of  Foxley,  after  designs  by 
Mr.  Nash.  It  is  a  singular  structure,  in  the  Gothic  style  and  castellated 
form,  consisting  of  three  octagonal  towers  connected  by  ranges  of  apart¬ 
ments,  having  a  light  and  elegant  balcony  facing  the  sea.  It  is  now  occasion¬ 
ally  occupied  by  its  present  proprietor.  Sir  Robert  Price. 

The  Assembly  Rooms  were  erected  in  1820,  from  designs  by  Mr.  Repton, 
and  comprise  a  ball  and  promenade  room,  which  is  used  as  a  reading  room, 
a  card  room,  and  billiard  room.  The  season  commences  in  July  and  ends 
in  October,  but  many  families  come  as  early  as  April,  at  which  period 
lodgings  can  be  obtained  remarkably  cheap.  From  the  great  increase  of 
buildings  here  of  late  years,  lodgings  have  come  down  very  much  in  price; 
entire  twelve-room  houses,  furnished  in  the  best  manner,  supplied  with 
water-closets,  and  replete  with  every  accommodation,  can  readily  be  had, 
from  October  to  May  as  low  as  from  206^.  to  40^.  per  week.  Owing  to 
this,  and  the  well-known  mildness  of  the  winter  months  here,  the  'number 
of  permanent  residents  has  been  steadily  on  the  increase.  Tire  recent 
introduction  of  a  purer  description  of  water,  and  the  many  other  im¬ 
provements  lately  effected  and  now  in  progress,  have  added  considerably 
to  its  attractions  as  a  place  of  winter  residence.  Concerts  are  frequently 
given  during  the  season. 

The  Marine  Parade,  an  elegant  crescent,  is  situated  on  the  margin  of 
the  sea.  At  the  north  end,  is  Craiglais,  or  Constitution  Hill,  and  on  the 
south  are  the  castle  ruins,  both  of  which  contain  excellent  walks.  The 
Marine  Terrace,  which  forms  the  east  side  of  the  parade,  is  a  handsome 
range  of  modern  buildings,  affording  every  accommodation  for  private 
families.  Most  of  these  erections  are  let  for  lodgings  during  the  summer. 
They  command  a  fine  marine  view,  including  the  sea  and  beach,  from  which 
pleasure-boats  are  constantly  starting. 

The  Market-place  was  erected  in  1824,  in  the  street  leading  to  the 
castle,  by  a  tontine  subscription.  The  markets  are  held  on  Monday  and 
Saturday,  and  are  now  entirely  confined  to  butchers’  meat.  Another  general 
mart,  upon  a  handsome  plan,  has  been  raised  upon  the  site  of  the  old 
Talbot  inn,  where  an  entire  new  street  has  arisen i, 

This  attractive  watering-place  also  contains  a  Town-hall  and  Theatre, 
The  two  Dispensaries  have  merged  into  one  Infirmary,  or  general  hospital, 
which  is  open  to  all  the  kingdom.  Here  are  likewise  a  Grammar  and  a 
National  School.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  Baptists,,  Independents 
and  Wesleyan  and  Calvinistic  Methodists.  In  1834,  an  act  of  parliament 
was  obtained  for  the  general  improvement  of  the  town,  under  the  authority 


26 


ABERYSTWITH. 


of  which  several  important  improvements  have  been  carried  into  effect, 
whilst  others  are  in  progress.  Among  the  most  prominent  advantages 
derived  may  be  mentioned  a  supply  from  springs  in  the  neighbouring 
hills  of  the  purest  water,  brought  by  means  of  pipes  into  every  dwelling- 
house  in  the  town.  The  works  are  constructed  according  to  the  plans  of 
George  Bush,  Esq.,  civil  engineer,  at  a  cost  of  upwards  of  QOOOl.  In 
September,  1838,  the  town  was  lighted  with  gas  by  a  company  formed 
among  the  inhabitants.  The  gas-works  were  erected  by  the  Messrs.  Stears, 
of  Stroud.  The  gas  is  of  a  very  pure  quality,  and  generally  taken  into  the 
shops  and  dwelling-houses.  The  public  lights  are  upwards  of  100,  and  the 
lamp-posts,  raised  by  public  subscription,  are  after  a  most  elegant  design. 

Aberystwith  has  for  some  time  possessed  the  advantage  of  a  daily  mail 
from  London  via  Cheltenham,  which  arrives  at  half-past  eight  in  the 
evening  ;  and,  since  the  Birmingham  Railway  has  been  opened,  an  addi¬ 
tional  mail  is  about  to  be  established  via  Shrewsbury,  which  will  arrive 
some  hours  earlier. 

Since  the  passing  of  the  municipal  reform  act,  there  has  been  intro¬ 
duced  a  part  of  the  London  police  force,  which,  under  an  active  and 
efficient  magistracy,  preserves  the  town  in  the  utmost  good  order. 

The  Bathing  is  well  conducted  :  hot  sea-water  baths  are  provided,  with 
every  requisite  accommodation,  and  bathing-machines  are  in  attendance. 
From  the  convenient  sloping  of  the  beach,  a  facility  of  bathing  is  afforded 
at  almost  any  state  of  the  tide,  within  a  very  short  distance  from  the 
shore.  The  beach  being  of  pebbles,  the  water  is  always  clear,  and  there  is 
a  good  sandy  bottom  at  all  hours  of  the  tide.  The  Marine  Baths  are  at  the 
north  end  of  the  Marine  Parade,  on  an  eminence  projecting  into  the  sea. 
Besides  cold  baths,  there  are  a  cold  plunging-bath,  a  shower  and  vapour 
bath,  with  bedrooms  for  invalids.  Near  the  centre  of  the  terrace  there 
is  another  warm  bath,  and  others  in  different  parts  of  the  town.  In 
addition  to  these  advantages,  Aberystwith  possesses  a  chalybeate  spring. 
It  has  lately  been  put  in  thorough  repair,  being  supplied  with  a  pump  and 
other  conveniences.  It  is  situated  a  few  hundred  yards  east  of  the  town, 
almost  at  the  commencement  of  a  pleasant  walk,  leading  by  Pldc-crug 
to  Llanbadern.  It  is  not  unlike  the  Tunbridge  waters.  It  contains  va¬ 
luable  medicinal  properties,  but  should  not  be  used  without  medical  advice. 
It  is  simply  chalybeate,  neither  acidulous  nor  saline  to  the  taste,  except 
when  it  has  been  mingled  with  the  sea-water  at  high  tides.  It  is  generally 
taken  at  eight  in  the  morning,  and  again  between  breakfast  and  dinner, 
gradually  increasing  the  dose  according  to  age  and  habit. 

'v  The  Races  held  here  occur  about  August,  in  a  field  near  Gogerddan, 
3  miles  distant,  and  usually  last  two  days.  Archery  and  cricket  clubs  have 
been  also  established  and  conducted  with  spirit.  As  an  angling  station, 
the  vicinity  of  Aberystwith  presents  to  the  votaries  of  that  pursuit  many 
attractions.  The  autumnal  fishing  for  salmon  and  sewin  is  excellent,  and 
within  a  day’s  excursion  there  is  good  sport  on  the  lakes.  A  Fly-fishing 
Cluh  has  lately  been  established  here  ;  and,  owing  to  their  praiseworthy 
exertions  in  preserving  the  river  from  poachers,  the  angling  has  become 
greatly  improved.  Fly-fishing  in  the  sea  for  bass  is  also  much  practised, 
as  many  as  from  four  to  six  fish  of  from  3  to  .51b.  each,  being  frequently 
taken  in  a  morning  in  fine  bright  weather.  (See  the  neighbouring  stations 
enumerated  at  the  close  of  this  article.) 

In  order  to  avoid  the  steep  ascent  of  the  Cwmtoyddwr  Hills,  a  new  road 
has  been  opened  from  Rhaiadyr  to  Aberystwith,  which,  joining  the 
Llanidloes  road  to  Llangurig,  winds  round  the  base  of  Plinlimmon  to  Pont 


ABERYSTWITH. 


27 

Erwyd,  thence  to  Llanbadarn  and  Aberystwith.  This  route  introduces  the 
traveller  to  scenery  of  great  beauty  on  the  Wye  ;  and,  though  a  mile  longer 
in  extent  than  the  former  road,  it  is  far  more  safe  and  easy. 

The  following  nobility  and  gentlemen  reside  in  the  immediate  neighbour¬ 
hood: —  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  Hafod  ;  the  Earl  of  Lisburne,  Crosswood  ; 
Colonel  Powell,  M.P.  and  Lord  Lieutenant  of  the  county,  Nanteos ; 
Pryse  Pryse,  Esq.,  M.P.  for  the  borough,  Gogerddan.  The  two  last- 
named  seats  are  but  3  miles  distant.  Mr.  Pryse  keeps  a  splendid  pack  of 
fox-hounds,  which  are  regularly  hunted  throughout  the  season,  as  well  as  a 
pack  of  excellent  harriers,  and  the  characteristic  urbanity  of  this  worthy 
member  is  never  more  conspicuously  displayed  than  towards  those  who 
share  with  him  in  the  noble  diversion  of  hunting.  An  Aberystwith  hunt 
is  about  to  be  established. 

There  are  several  lead-mines  in  this  vicinity,  so  rich  in  silver  that  the 
district  is  called  by  the  Welsh  Potosi.  Esgairvraith  copper-mine  lies 
3  miles  to  the  east ;  Coginan  lead-mine  4  miles  south ;  and  in  the  more 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  town  are  Cluernog  and  Cwmswmlog.  Perhaps 
the  most  remarkable  instance  of  the  occurrence  of  silver  in  Great  Britain 
is  that  afforded  by  the  Gogerddan  mines,  near  Aberystwith,  which,  although 
at  the  present  time  unworked  and  little  known,  were  immensely  productive 
two  or  three  centuries  ago.  From  the  argentiferous  galena  of  these  mines 
Sir  Hugh  Myddleton  is  said  to  have  made  a  profit  of  about  25,0001.  a 
year,  and  chiefly  to  have  accumulated  the  wealth  expended  in  his  great 
undertaking  of  bringing  the  New  River  to  London.  We  are  not  aware 
what  the  produce  was  in  these  ores,  or  what  proportion  of  the  profit  was 
derived  from  this  metal.  It  appears,  however,  to  have  been  very  con¬ 
siderable,  both  from  old  accounts  of  the  mines,  and  from  the  circumstance 
of  a  mint  having  been  established  for  its  coinage  in  the  ancient  castle  of 
Aberystwith.  Some  of  the  silver  pieces  coined  here  are  still  in  existence, 
having  on  one  side  the  impression  of  an  ostrich  feather,  probably  derived 
from  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  the  nominal  sovereign 
of  the  Principality.  Prior  to  the  time  of  Sir  Hugh  Myddleton,  these 
mines  afforded  large  profits  to  a  company  of  German  miners  by  whom 
they  were  worked  ;  and  for  a  long  time  after  his  death,  were  wrought 
with  equal  success  by  Mr.  Bushell,  who  was  remarkable  for  his  loyalty  to 
Charles  I.,  in  whose  cause  he  appears  to  have  sacrificed  much  of  the 
wealth  he  thus  acquired ;  having,  it  is  stated,  on  one  occasion,  advanced  a 
loan,  or  rather  gift,  of  40,000/.,  besides  other  equally  important  assistance 
in  men  and  arms.  A  considerable  quantity  of  lead  is  refined  for  silver, 
at  the  present  time,  at  some  of  the  mines  of  North  Wales  ;  but  the  ores 
do  not  generally  contain  any  very  large  proportion  of  the  precious  metal, 
although  the  aggregate  produce  is  considerable,  having  been  estimated  at 
nearly  40,000  ounces  per  annum. —  Welshman. 

Mr.  Page,  the  eminent  mineral  engineer,  has  discovered  lead  ore  and 
spar  in  the  vicinity  of  Alltwen  Rock,  on  the  estate  of  Matthew  Davis,  Esq., 
of  Tanybwlch,  within  one  mile  of  this  town. 

Among  the  plants  found  in  this  neighbourhood  are  Scilla  verna,  Trig- 
lochin  rnaritimum,  Statice  Armeria,  Plantago  maritima,  P.  Coronopus,  Cucu« 
balus  Otites,  Glaucium  luteum,  Cochlearia  officinalis,  Anthyllis  Vulneraria, 
Convolvulus  Soldanella,  Elymus  arenarius,  Nymph  sea  alba.  Euphorbia 
Peplis,  Pulmonaria  maritima. 

The  turnpike  road  to  the  Devil’s  Bridge,  or  Pont-y-Mynach,  lies 
chiefly  over  uncultivated  hills,  on  the  s.  w.  side  of  the  vale  of  Rheidol, 
12  m.  from  Aberystwith,  and  presents  on  its  line  some  striking  scenery. 


28 


ABERYSTWITH. 


This  vale  gradually  contracts  into  a  deep  glen  :  its  rocky  banks  are  clothed 
with  plantations ;  and  at  the  bottom  flows  a  rapid  current.  Mr.  Evans 
entered  the  Vale  of  Rheidol  at  the  village  of  Llanbadarn  Fawb^  sup¬ 
posed  to  be  the  Mauritania,  (from  Mawr,  great,  to  distinguish  this  church 
from  others  of  less  note),  where,  in  the  6th  century,  St.  Padarn  founded 
a  monastery  and  an  episcopal  see,  which  was  subsequently  united  to  that 
of  St.  David’s.  The  vale  here  becomes  enclosed  by  lofty  mountains, 
adorned  with  verdure,  and  interspersed  with  bare  cliffs  and  frowning  crags. 
At  the  feet  of  these  the  river  struggles  through  the  vast  fragments  of  rock 
which,  in  angry  and  tumultuous  roar,  obstruct  its  course.  At  Pont-pren- 
Pltweea,  or  Melincwm  Rheidol,  within  1^  m.  of  the  Hafod  Arms,  is  a 
striking  scene.  On  one  side  of  the  river  dark  rocks  rise  to  nearly  400  ft. 
in  elevation  ;  these  are  opposed  on  the  other,  by  inferior  cliffs.  Through  an 
intervening  chasm  issues  a  mountain  stream  which  forms  a  delightful 
cascade.  In  this  sequestered  spot  is  a  mill,  the  access  to  which  is  over  a 
bridge  formed  of  the  trunk  of  a  tree.  This  turnpike  road  from  Aberyst- 
with  forms  a  long  but  gradual  ascent,  affording  a  favourable  view  of  the 
vale  of  the  Rheidol.  From  two  or  three  points  of  the  ridge  over  which 
the  road  passes  may  be  seen  both  the  Rheidol  and  Ystwith.  Skirting  the 
hills  which  bound  the  former,  the  attentive  traveller  will  not  fail  to  observe 
the  sinuosity  of  the  vale,  and  the  different  features  it  assumes  as  the  bases 
of  the  hills  project  or  retire.  The  lowest  ground  is  fertile,  and  the  slopes 
are  enclosed  and  cultivated  to  a  considerable  height.  Advancing,  hills  are 
seen  in  front,  and  on  the  l.  appear,  like  a  succession  of  mighty  waves, 
extending  to  the  base  of  Plinlimmon.  The  new  road  commands  a  greater 
variety  of  scenery  than  the  old  one,  having  the  Rheidol  constantly  in  view. 
After  passing  the  9th  milestone  the  vale  contracts,  and  the  banks  become 
more  woody  and  abrupt.  At  length  the  road,  winding  round  the  back  of 
a  craggy  hill,  discloses  the  falls  of  the  Rheidol,  near  Pont-y-Mynach. 

On  the  road  to  Tregaron,  Nanteos,  the  delightful  mansion  of 
W.  E.  Powell,  Esq.,  M.P.  and  lord  lieutenant  of  the  county,  first  occurs 
on  the  L.  The  situation  is  very  agreeably  enclosed  by  moderate  hills,  and 
opens  towards  the  sea.  The  structure  is  large,  substantial,  and  elegant. 
Trawscoed  or  Crosswood  Park,  the  Earl  of  Lisburne,  is  very  ancient,  yet 
presents  infinite  attractions  to  lovers  of  the  rural  and  picturesque  :  the 
mansion  is  situated  in  a  park,  and  the  scenery  is  various  and  delightful. 
At  the  village  of  Llanafan  and  Llanwnws,  composed  of  a  few  scattered 
houses,  enter  upon  a  high  and  dreary  common,  the  ascent  to  which  is  long 
and  fatiguing.  This  is  the  s.  w.  extremity  of  a  ridge  which  terminates 
with  Eglwys-Newydd  on  the  n.  e.  Descending  the  hill  on  the  s.  e.,  the 
first  indication  of  any  thing  agreeable  is  the  village  and  neighbourhood  of 
Ystrad  Meyric.  There  is,  on  the  side  of  the  declivity,  a  woody  shelter, 
which  derives  a  double  charm  from  contrast,  and  imparts  a  picturesque 
effect  to  some  gigantic  masses  of  rock.  This  mountainous  retreat  contains, 
besides  a  mouldered  castle,  a  school  endowed  by  the  late  Mr.  Edward 
Richard.  He  was  self-taught,  a  native  of  this  place,  and  many  years 
himself  master  of  the  establishment.  The  descent  continues  to  the  plain, 
through  which  flows  the  Mirk.  The  river  should  be  crossed  before  the 
tourist  reaches  Pont-Rhydfendigaid,  a  hamlet  on  the  banks  of  the  Teifi, 
but  in  which  there  is  the  accommodation  of  a  bed.  Mynachlogfawr,  or 
Strata  Florida,  with  its  ruined  abbey,  a  house  of  great  repute  in 
monastic  annals,  was  founded  by  Rhys-ap-GryfFydd  in  ll64.  He  was 
son  of  GryfFydd  ap  Rhys  ap  Theodor,  and  died  of  a  pestilential  disorder 
in  1137.  The  ancient  writers  have  been  very  profuse  in  his  praise.  In 


ABERYSTWITH. 


29 

Higden’s  Polychronicon  we  find  the  following  inflated  delineation  of  the 
character  of  Rhys:  —  O  blysse  of  batayle  !  chylde  of  chyvalry  !  defence 
of  countree  !  worshypp  of  armes  !  arme  of  strength  !  hande  of  largenesse  ! 
eye  of  reson  !  hrygtnesse  of  honeste  !  berynge  in  breste  Hectour’s  prowesse, 
Achilles’s  sharpnesse,  Nestour’s  sohernesse^  Tydeus’  hardynesse,  Sampson’s 
strengthe,  Hectour’s  worthynesse,  Eurialus’  swyftness_,  Ulyxe’s  fare  speche, 
Solomon’s  wysdome,  Ajax’s  hardynesse !  O  clothynge  of  naked !  the  hungryes 
mete  !  fulfyllynge  all  menes  bone  that  him  wolde  ought  bydde  !  O  fayre 
in  speche  !  felowe  in  servyce  !  honeste  of  dede^  and  sobre  in  worde  !  Gladde 
of  semblaunt,  and  love  in  face  ;  goodly  to  every  man,  and  rightful  to  all ! 
The  noble  dyademe  of  fayrnesse  of  Wales  is  now  fallen.  That  is,  Rees  is 
deed !  All  Wales  gronyth,  Rees  is  deed  !  the  name  is  not  loste,  but  blysse 
passyth,  the  blysse  of  Wales  passyth,  Rees  is  deed  !  worshypp  of  the 
worlde  gooth  awaye.  The  enemy  is  here,  for  Rees  is  not  here.  Now 
Wales  helpith  not  itself.  Rees  is  deed,  and  take  awaye.  But  his  noble 
soul  is  not  deed,  for  it  is  alway  new  in  the  worlde  wyde.  This  place 
holdyth  grete  worshypp  yf  the  byrth  is  beholde.  Of  men  axe  what  is  the 
ende.  It  is  ashes  and  powder.  Here  he  is  hydde,  but  he  is  unhylled,  for 
name  duryth  evermore,  and  sufFryth  not  the  noble  duke  to  be  hydde  of 
speche.  His  prowesse  passed  his  maners.  His  wytte  passed  bis  prowesse. 
His  fayre  speche  passed  his  wytte.  His  good  thewes  passed  his  fayre 
speche!”  Some  part  of  the  cloister  and  infirmatory  may  be  traced.  A 
guide  should  be  procured  to  visit  Llyn  Teifi,  full  of  red  trout,  on  a 
mountain  2  m.  n.  e.  of  Strata  Florida.  Upon  the  top  of  this  mountain  are 
five  lakes,  of  which  Teifi  is  the  principal.  Its  circumference  may  probably 
be  about  m.  It  is  encompassed  by  a  high  and  perpendicular  ridge, 
which  both  feeds  and  confines  its  everlasting  waters.  It  has  been  thought 
by  some  to  be  a  crater,  but  the  stones  on  the  margins  bear  no  volcanic 
appearance.  Leland  says,  Of  all  the  pooles  none  stondeth  in  so  rokky 
and  stony  soile  as  Tyve  doth,  that  hath  withyn  hym  many  stonis.  The 
ground  al  about  Tyve,  and  a  great  mile  towards  Stratfler,  is  horrible  with 
the  sighte  of  bare  stones,  as  Cregeryri  mountains  be.  Llin  Tyve  is  in 
cumpare  a  iii  quarters  of  a  m.,  being  ii  m.  be  e.  from  Strateflere.  It  is 
fedde  fro  hyer  places  with  a  little  broket,  and  issueth  out  again  by  a 
smaulle  gut.  Ther  is  in  it  veri  good  trouttes  and  elys,  and  no  other  fisch. 
Tyve  (river)  reunith  from  the  hedde  stil  almost  plane  w.  antille  he  touchith 
within  a  vi  m.  of  Cuirmardin,  and  these  turneth  towards  the  n.”  —  The 
disintegrated  rock  with  which  the  soil  is  encumbered  renders  the  whole 
aspect  of  the  mountain  uncouth  and  repulsive.  This  cheerless  appearance, 
however,  is  amply  compensated  to  the  angler  by  the  excellent  sport  the 
pools  afford.  On  leaving  Llyn  Teifi,  a  walk  of  a  few  minutes  will  bring 
him  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  and  at  once  in  view  of  four  more 
lakes,  each  within  a  few  yards  of  the  other.  The  largest,  Llyn  Egnaut, 
cannot  be  less  in  circumference  than  Llyn  Teifi,  and  is  much  less  formal 
in  its  shape,  being  narrower  in  the  middle.  The  smallest,  Llyn^gron, 
occupying  the  highest  ground,  is  circular,  and  in  appearance  resembles  a 
volcanic  crater.  It  is  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  size.  These,  ac¬ 
cording  to  the  peasantry,  have  never  been  fathomed.  Their  effect  is 
considerably  heightened  by  the  strong  degree  of  agitation  to  which  they  are 
subjected  by  their  exposure ;  and  the  scene,  though  totally  desolate,  is  not 
deficient  in  grandeur.  Llyn  Frydan  facli  and  Llyn  Fry  dan  fawr  occur 
about  2  m.  n.  Southward  is  Llyn  Gynon.  Llyn  hir,  about  300  yards 
from  Llyn  Teifi,  contains  the  finest  fish.  The  peasantry  destroy  great 
numbers  by  night-lines.”  —  Hansard. 


30 


ABERYSTWITH. 


To  return  from  the  lakes  to  the  Teifi,  tracing  its  sinuosities  through 
the  vale^  is  a  tedious  reach,  without  sufficiently  corresponding  interest  to 
repay  the  attendant  fatigue.  The  guides  conduct  the  traveller  across  hills 
TO  Tregaron,  the  chain  of  which  runs,  without  a  single  break,  from 
Lampeter  to  Bishop’s  Castle,  in  Shropshire,  a  space  of  about  60  m.  It 
might  be  traversed  on  horseback  without  the  interruption  of  a  single  gate 
or  fence. 

On  the  road  to  Cardigan,  the  vale  of  Ystwith,  with  its  romantic 
bridge,  venerably  clothed  with  ivy,  near  Llan  y  chaiarn  Castle,  2  m.  3  f. 
is  the  first  interesting  point.  Immediately  afterwards,  at  Chancery,  1-|  m., 
the  hills,  rising  abruptly,  shut  out  the  county  on  the  1.,  and  leave  a  very 
fine  marine  view.  About  Garengyr,  the  country  is  pleasing.  Tafarn  Spite, 

3  m.,  is  one  of  the  hospitia  of  latter  times,  open  to  all  travellers,  on  con¬ 
dition  of  paying  for  their  accommodations.  Near  Jkfoel  Ifor,  1^  m.  on  the 
r.  hand  of  the  road,  are  two  Druidical  remains.  Llanrhystyd  stands  on 
the  banks  of  the  little  river  Wirrai,  near  its  confluence  with  the  sea.  Red 
Lion,  -|m.  1.  To  Lampeter,  on  the  1.,  18^  m.  There  are  some  traces  of  a 
monastic  institution  at  this  village.  Llansanffraid,  on  the  r.,  has  an  ancient 
church.  The  Perris  falls  into  the  sea  near  Llannon,  2^m.  The  village 
of  Morfa-mawr,  1  m.,  stands  on  another  brook  :  its  church  is  near  the  coast. 
Beyond  is  a  very  steep  hill.  The  road,  winding  to  the  r.,  turns  over  the 
cliflP,  and  leads  unexpectedly  to  the  pleasing  and  interesting  village  of 

Llanddewi  Aherarth.  2  m.  on  the  1.  is  Mynachty, - Gwynn,  Esq.  Aber- 

AERON,  another  pleasing  village,  1  m.  5  f.  A  bridge  over  the  Aeron  is 
highly  picturesque :  beyond  which  ascend  a  hill.  ui.  on  the  1.  is 
Noyadd,  J,  Brooks,  Esq.  On  the  coast  between  Aberaeron  and  Llanarth, 

4  m.  1  f.,  are  the  fragments  of  a  small  castle.  Rhydfechan,  Ty- 

newydd,  |  m.  Llandyssilio-  Gogo  lies  out  of  the  road  near  the  shore.  Fy7i~ 
non-Ddewi,  1  m.  Up  the  hill  of  Fynnon-Ddewi,  where  the  Bidder  is 
crossed,  there  is  a  very  fine  view  of  Cardigan  Bay.  A  tedious  journey 
over  this  rocky  tract  disposes  the  traveller  to  be  pleased  with  the  sheltered 
situation  of  the  New  Inn,  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill.  In  advancing  to 
this  place  is  Werfill-hrook,  Lewis  Turner  Clark,  Esq.,  1  m.  distant.  PwlU 
glds,  5^m.,  is  in  the  parish  of  Penbryn,  the  church  of  which  is  on  the 
r.  hand,  near  the  sea-shore.  Temple-bar,  -i  m.  on  the  r.,  is  near  Castell- 
’ndolig;  this  is  a  British  encampment,  very  large,  and  double-trenched. 
2  m.  further,  at  Blaenporth,  occurs  another  fortification  not  so  large.  The 
descent  to  Newcastle  in  Emlyn  is  considerable,  but  the  prospect  improves 
momentarily  as  you  approach  the  vale  of  Teifi.  The  bridge  over  Kerry 
affords  a  pleasing  view  of  that  river  near  its  junction  with  the  Teifi. 
Tremain,  1  m.  7  f- ;  Warren,  2.  m.  ;  Cardigan,  2  m. 

On  the  road  to  Machynlleth,  at  the  1st  m.  on  the  1.,  is  Penglais,  built 
by  Roderic  Richards,  who  bequeathed  it  to  William,  his  son,  father  of  the 
present  proprietor.  It  stands  in  a  commanding  and  delightful  situation. 
To  the  1.  Cwm  Cynfelin,  J.  Lloyd  Williams,  Esq.  At  the  2d  m.  a  road 
deviates  to  the  r.  to  Fronfraith,  once  the  seat  of  Sir  Thomas  Bonsai,  Knt., 
formerly  the  property  of  Lloyd  of  Tan-y-Castell.  At  the  3d  m.  pass  Rhyd- 
Mr-uchaf;  on  the  r.  Gogerddan,  the  elegant  mansion  of  Pryse  Pryse,  Esq. 
This  spot  is  celebrated  as  the  birthplace  of  Rhydderch  ab  Jevan  Llwyd,  a 
poet  of  the  first  rank,  who  lived  in  the  next  age  after  Dafydd  ab  Gwilym  : 
he  was  owner  of  this  estate,  and  brought  up  at  Oxford.  1  m.  to  the  r.  of 
Bow-street  is  V  Hen  Gaer,  an  ancient  fortification  of  singular  construction. 
In  1759,  as  some  labourers  were  digging  for  turf  in  Gors-fochno,  they  turned 
up  a  tanned  leathern  quarter-boot.  It  was  presented  to  John  Pugh  Pryse, 


ABERYSTWITH. 


31 


Esq.j  who  took  it  out  of  the  country.  At  the  5th  m.  pass  Pen-y-garn^ 
Capel.  4  ^  further  a  road  deviates  to  the  1.  to  Llanfihangel-genexC r- 
glyn,  called  also  Llanjihangel  Castell  Gwallter.  The  fortress  was  built  by 
Walter  Espec,  or  Especke,  to  protect  his  territories.  It  was  destroyed  in 
3135  by  Cadwalladr  and  Owain  Gwynedd^  sons  of  Gryfydd  ah  Cynan. 
The  Church  stands  upon  the  brow  of  the  hill  below  the  castle,  built  in  the 
form  of  a  cross,  and  neatly  fitted  up.  It  is  a  vicarage,  dedicated  to  St. 
Michael,  in  the  gift  of  the  Bishop  of  St.  David’s.  The  font  is  an  ancient 
hexagonal  bason.  Upon  Cwmswmlog  Hill  are  the  remains  of  a  chapel 
erected  by  Sir  Hugh  Myddleton,  in  the  reign  of  James  I.,  for  the  use  of 
his  miners.  In  this  parish  are  several  Druidical  structures.  The  most  re¬ 
markable  is  that  called  Bedd-Taliesin  or  Taliesins  Grave,  situated  upon 
Pen-y-sarn,  between  the  Ceulan  and  Clettwr.  Taliesin  ben  beirdd 
flourished  about  540 ;  but,  as  he  was  a  pious  Christian,  Mr.  Meyrick  is  of 
opinion  that  the  emblem  of  a  cross  would  have  been  attached  to  his  tomb, 
and  therefore  infers  that  this  is  not  the  grave  of  Taliesin,  who  spent  the 
latter  part  of  his  life  in  N.  Wales,  and  was  probably  buried  there.  A  large 
heap  of  earth  is  surrounded  by  two  circles  of  stones,  the  innermost  of  which 
is  27  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  outer  about  31  feet.  In  the  centre  is  the 
gwely,  or  couch,  composed  of  6  stones,  5  making  an  oblong  chest ;  another 
forms  a  cover,  now  thrown  on  one  side.  Many  years  ago  a  human  skull 
was  found  in  this  sarcophagus ;  but  whether  that  of  a  sacrificed  victim,  or 
the  remnant  of  an  arch  Druid,  affords  subject  of  conjecture.  In  a  field 
called  Letty-’ngharad-bach,  belonging  to  the  farm  of  Yuerglawdd,  are  two 
singular  stones ;  one  is  of  a  prismatic  form,  contains  several  circular  lateral 
excavations,  and  was  used  doubtless  by  the  Druids  in  their  sacrificial 
offerings.  Upon  the  summit  of  Pembryn-pellau  is  a  cistvaen,  also  upon 
Banc-y-Winllan,  and  on  Moel-Llyn  is  a  carnedd.  At  Llwyn-Glds,  belong¬ 
ing  to  Mr.  John  Hughes,  was  preserved  a  knife,  called  Cyllell-hirion.  It 
is  14  inches  long,  including  the  handle,  which  is  of  horn,  and  ornamented 
with  brass ;  the  blade  is  inlaid  with  gold.  This  kind  of  dagger  was  used 
by  the  Saxons  in  the  time  of  Gwrtheyrn,  or  Vortigern,  King  of  Britain.  A 
remarkable  incident  is  connected  with  the  use  of  these  instruments.  Gwrtheyrn 
after  the  death  of  Gwrthewyr,  was  elected  king,  though  he  had  before  been 
deposed  for  bad  conduct.  Rowena,  knowing  his  pusillanimity,  sent  messengers 
to  Germany  to  inform  her  father  of  this  event.  Hengist  immediately  raised 
30,000  armed  men,  and  sailed  for  Britain,  but  the  natives  prevented  them 
from  landing.  On  this  Hengist  had  recourse  to  stratagem  and  perfidy.  He 
pretended  to  have  come  in  order  to  assist  Gwrtheyrn  in  the  recovery  of  his 
crown,  who  on  this  statement  permitted  the  Saxons  to  land.  Hengist  ap¬ 
pointed  the  1st  of  May  following  for  a  conference,  and  both  parties  were 
to  meet  on  Salisbury  Plain,  unarmed.  Hengist,  however,  privately  directed 
his  nobles  and  knights  to  bring  each  a  cyllell-hirion  concealed  in  his  sleeve, 
and  that,  on  his  pronouncing  the  words,  Nemet  cour  Saxes,”  or,  take  your 
knives,  each  should  kill  the  Briton  next  to  him.  Thus  were  300  noble¬ 
men  massacred.  Of  the  British  princes  none  escaped  except  Eidiol,  Earl 
of  Gloucester,  who,  perceiving  a  pole,  seized  it,  with  which  he  slew  seventy 
of  the  Saxons. 

From  Llanfihangel  a  path  leads  by  the  Globe  inn  to  the  Machynlleth 
road.  Glan-fred  occurs  on  the  1.,  s.  e.  This  place  was  noted  as  the  birth¬ 
place  of  that  eminent  naturalist  and  antiquary,  Edward  Lloyd,  of  whose 
life  there  is  in  manuscript  a  memoir  in  the  Ashmolean  Museum.  It  was 
published  by  the  Rev.  N.  Owen,  with  other  papers,  under  the  title  of 
British  Remains.”  In  a  manuscript  account  of  benefactors,  at  this 


32 


ABERYSTWITH.* 


museum,  is  a  drawing  of  Edward  Lloyd.  On  regaining  the  road,  Afaes 
Newydd  on  the  r.  proceeds  1  m.,  with  the  river  Lery  on  the  1.,  to  Tal- 
y-hont,  at  the  7th  m.  Proceeding  |  a  m.  to  Penton-las,  on  the  1.  is  Pen~ 
y-hont-pren,  on  the  Ceulan,  formerly  the  property  of  Herbert  Lloyd,  attorney- 
at-law,  of  Caermarthen,  by  purchase  of  Charles  Griffiths,  whose  family 
resided  here  for  many  generations.  At  the  8th  m.  is  Nant-y-Ueian 
and  Ergloddy  where  a  mine  produces  lead  ore  and  quartz,  i  a  m.  further 
pass  Troed-rhiw-fedwen  and  Tafarn-fach,  On  the  1.  lies  the  immense 
tract  of  Cors  Fochno,  bounded  on  the  n.  by  the  river  Dyfi.  Near  the  shore, 
called  Bird'' s-point,  is  a  tumulus  called  Moel-ynys,  or  Tommen-llds.  A 
sand  near  it  is  called  Traeth  Maelgwn.  Beyond  the  9th  m.  cross  the 
Clettwry  1  m.  To  the  1.  is  Llancynfelin,  stationed  upon  high  ground, 
and  considered  to  be  the  birthplace  of  Deio  ab  levan  Du,  who  flourished 
about  the  year  1480.  The  church,  dedicated  to  Cynfelyn  (son  of  Bleidyd 
ab  Meirion),  who  founded  a  church  at  Welsh  Pool,  consists  simply  of  a 
nave,  having  a  porch  and  an  ancient-  pointed  arch.  In  the  interior  are  some 
remains  of  an  ancient  carved  screen.  This  ediflce  is  delightfully  situated, 
overlooking  the  vast  plain  of  Cors  Fochno.  The  living  is  a  perpetual 
curacy,  in  the  gift  of  the  Chichester  family.  Near  the  10th  m.  pass  the 
park  gate.  On  the  1.  is  Park  Lodge,  originally  Bod-frigau,  belonging 
to  Pryse  Pryse,  Esq.,  of  Gogerddan,  member  for  the  borough.  ^  a  m. 
further  pass  a  brook  at  Melin  Lodge.  On  the  1.  is  Tyn  Cornel.  At  the 
11th  m.  is  Cae-mawr.  Cross  the  Einon  at  Dyfi  Furnace,  vrhere  formerly 
iron  ore  was  smelted.  It  was  erected  in  1775  by  Vernon,  Kendal,  and  Co. 
Just  beyond,  at  the  12th  m.  is  Eglwys- Each,  called  also  Llanfihangel-capel- 
Edwin,  erected  by  John  Lloyd,  of  Ynys-Hir,  a.d.  1623.  This  church  is 
a  neat  small  structure.  The  entrance  to  the  cemetery  is  through  an  antique¬ 
looking  gateway.  Over  the  s.  window  of  the  chancel  is  the  following 
inscription: — hec  ec’c  ere’c  per  iohe  lloyd  an^o  di’n,  1623.  Cross 
a  tributary  to  the  Einon,  near  Cwm-ereu  on  the  r.  and  Melyn  dwr  to  the 
1.  The  scenery  at  the  latter  place  is  extremely  beautiful.  At  Pont-y-pren 
the  dark  rocks  rise  on  one  side  nearly  400  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river. 
At  the  13th  m.  is  the  trading  village  of  Garreg.  The  road  for  the  remain¬ 
der  of  the  route  lies  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Dyfl,  leaving  Gogarth  and 
Penmaen  at  some  distance  on  the  w.  side.  Plinlimmon  appears  7  or  8  m. 
to  the  s.  E. 

Pont-y-Mynach,  or  Devil’s  Bridge,  and  Havod,  are  objects  of 
general  attraction  to  the  visitants  at  Aberystwith.  The  former  is  generally 
taken  in  the  way  to  the  latter.  The"  n.  side  of  the  Rheidol  contains  a 
greater  variety  of  objects  ;  but  the  high  road  is  preferable  for  carriages. 
Instead  of  crossing  that  river  along  the  turnpike  road  to  the  s.,  pass  east¬ 
ward,  through  Northgate,  to  Llanbadarn-Fawr,  a  parish  which  contains 
several  manors,  and  is  described  in  its  alphabetic  place.  Thence,  along 
the  banks  of  the  river,  leaving  a  mill,  Felin-person,  on  the  r.  gain  the 
river  side  of  Nanteirio.  On  the  1.  is  Eronfraith,  once  the  seat  of  Sir 
T.  Bronsall.  Next  enter  Cwm  Rheidol,  passing  along  the  banks  of  that 
river  8  m.  further,  before  you  reach  Devil’s  Bridge,  Pont-y-Mynach, 
which  see.  The  return  from  Havod  might  be  made  along  the  Ystwith, 
by  way  of  Yspy tty- Ystwith,  the  hospitium  of  the  Ystwith.”  This 
church  stands  upon  a  rock  commanding  a  delightful  prospect  of  Maen 
Arthur  wood,  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Lisburne.  On  the  summit  is 
Grogwynion,  the  residence  of  the  incumbent  of  Llanavan,  from  which 
descends  a  fine  sheet  of  water.  Cross  the  river  at  Blaen-y-dol :  proceed 
nearly  2  m.  to  Llanafan,  situated  at  a  very  picturesque  bend  of  the 


ABERYSTWITH. 


SB 


Ystwith.  The  Church_,  dedicated  to  St.  Afan  Buallt  (son  of  Cedig  ab 
Ceredig,  probably  a  bishop  of  Llanbadarn),  consists  of  a  nave  and  south  tran¬ 
sept^  the  latter  of  which  contains  the  pews  and  vault  of  the  Crosswood 
family.  An  avenue  of  yew-trees  leads  to  this  transept  from  the  entrance 
of  the  churchyard.  Part  of  an  ancient  screen  yet  remains.  There  is  a 
curious  silver  dish  used  for  the  patten  at  the  sacrament_,  presented  by  one 
of  the  earls  of  Lisburne.  Pass  Capel,  back  to  Crosswood  or  Traws  Coed, 
the  noble  mansion  of  the  right  honourable  the  Earl  of  Lisburne,  and  the 
residence  of  John  Jones,  Esq.  The  house  is  large,  the  park  handsome, 
and  the  farm  in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation.  A  road  on  the  r.  of  the 
park  leads  to  Cwm-mwydion,  crossing  the  little  river  Aher-Magwyr.  1  m. 
beyond  is  Abertrmant  a  seat  formerly  belonging  to  a  family  named 
Lloyd.  The  house  has  been  suffered  to  decay,  and  is  now  occupied  by 
a  farmer.  At  a  short  distance  is  Llanfihangel-y-creuddin.  Sarn-Helen^ 
from  Llania  to  Machynlleth,  crosses  this  parish,  in  a  farm  called  Brenan. 
At  a  small  house  called  Lletty- Synod,  in  ancient  times,  the  synods  of  the 
monks  were  often  held.  The  church  is  cruciform,  with  an  immense  high 
square  tower  in  the  centre,  supported  by  four  pointed  arches.  Upon  a  hill, 
about  2  m.  e.  of  the  church,  called  Careg-Fihangel,  are  three  tumuli.  At  the 
distance  of  2  m.  leave  Pen-y-wern  on  the  1.  Nothing  remarkable  occupies 
the  remainder  of  the  7  ni.  from  Llanfihangel,  except  Nant  Eos,  on  the  r. 
of  Pen-y-bont,  W.  E.  Powell,  Esq.  This  mansion  is  a  substantial  build¬ 
ing,  containing  some  family  portraits  and  Flemish  paintings. 

It  is  in  contemplation  to  form  a  carriage  road  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Rheidol  up  the  entire  vale  to  the  Devil’s  Bridge,  the  beauty  of  which  vale 
is  entirely  lost  to  view,  after  the  first  six  miles  from  Aberystwith,  where 
the  road  diverges  to  the  left.  When  accomplished,  this  line,  from  the  ro¬ 
mantic  character  of  the  scenery,  will  form  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
drives  in  the  kingdom,  there  being  not  less  than  three  fine  cascades  of  con¬ 
siderable  height  on  the  river. 

Dr.  Mavor  made  an  Excursion  round  the  environs  of  Aberystwith.  He 
visited  first  Plas-crug,  a  fortified  mansion  on  the  banks  of  the  Rheidol, 
which  tradition  distinguishes  as  the  residence  of  several  Welsh  princes. 
It  is  situated  upon  an  estate  belonging  to  W.  E.  Powell,  Esq.,  of  Nant  Eos, 
near  Aberystwith.  The  remains  are  very  considerable,  and  pleasingly  si¬ 
tuated  in  a  valley  which  terminates  at  that  seaport.  Of  this  mansion  a 
square  embattled  tower  is  still  very  entire.  A  narrow  passage  leads  into 
a  quadrangular  division,  apparently  once  a  kitchen,  of  which  the  outer 
walls  are  in  good  preservation.  The  apartments  have  been  very  spacious 
and  numerous,  but  the  area  is  completely  filled  with  fallen  fragments. 
That  this  place  has  been  a  residence  of  Silurian  princes  is  certain,  being 
particularly  noticed  by  Eineon  ap  Gwgan,  who  flourished  in  1244.  Of 
Llywelyn  the  Great  he  says, 

“  His  spear  flashes  in  hands  accustomed  to  mortal  deeds ; 

It  kills,  and  puts  its  enemies  to  flight,  by  the  palace  of  the  Rheidol.” 

It  was  afterwards  a  residence  of  Owen  Glyndwr.  (^Cambrian  Itin. — 
Pennant's  Life  of  Glyndwr.^  He  then  visited  Llanbadarn  Fawr,  making 
a  digression  to  Gogerddan,  one  of  the  residences  of  Pryse  Pryse,  Esq.,  M.P. 
for  the  borough,  and  distant  from  Aberystwith  about  1  m.  This  mansion  is 
situated  upon  a  lawn,  between  two  very  lofty  mountains  :  one  is  clothed 
with  various  kinds  of  pines  and  evergreens,  the  other  with  oak.  A  small 
river  flows  through  the  lawn  near  the  house.  A  broad  winding  path, 
through  a  wood  from  the  r.  of  the  road  to  Machynlleth,  conducted  Dr. 

D 


34 


AMLWCH. 


Mavor  to  Lodge  Park,  also  belonging  to  Pryse  Pryse^  Esq.  The  mansion 
is  erected  on  a  bold  eminence^  and  commands  some  exquisitely  fine  views. 
In  this  park  are  some  valuable  mines,  particularly  one  of  silver,  which  has 
produced  a  considerable  quantity.  The  ore,  however,  is  not  sufficiently  rich 
to  yield  any  great  profit  to  the  proprietor.  He  next  directed  his  course  to 
Moel-ynis,  the  barren  isle,’'  which  produces  scarcely  any  thing  but  rabbits, 
and  foxes  to  prey  upon  them.  It  is  wholly  surrounded  by  the  sea,  and  the 
rivers  Dyfi  and  Lerry,  with  only  one  entrance  by  a  stone  bridge.  Our 
tourist  next  rode  along  the  sands  to  Borth,  once  a  Roman  station,  but 
now  a  fishing  cottage.  To  this  place  the  company  from  Aberystwith 
make  excursions  for  the  sake  of  inhaling  the  sea-breeze. 

The  road  to  Towyn  lies  on  the  sea-shore.  Penglas,  on  the  r.,  1.  m.  Bow- 
Street.  Capel  Cynfelyn,  where  occurs  a  causeway  named  Sarn  Cynfelyn, 
which  extends  7  no.  into  the  sea,  from  Gwallawg.  At  the  termination  of 
this  causeway  is  Caer-Wydd7io,  supposed  to  have  been  a  royal  residence. 
At  Borth  enter  upon  a  region  presenting  a  grand  display  of  scenery,  and 
cross  the  estuary  of  the  Dyfi  to  the  small  seaport  of  Aberdovey,  in  the 
parish  of  Towyn,  rapidly  rising  in  estimation  as  a  watering-place,  con¬ 
sisting  of  seven  respectable  houses  and  a  hotel,  ranged  along  the  shore ; 
near  which  is  the  pleasing  villa  of  Trefide,  the  property  of  F.  Griffiths, 
Esq.,  of  Bishop’s  Castle.  Here  a  few  vessels  import  coals  and  limestone, 
exporting  bark  and  other  productions  of  the  valley.  To  the  n.  the  coast 
extends  over  a  long  flat  sand,  bounded  by  a  stripe  of  swampy  ground.  A 
view  of  the  Merionethshire  mountains,  extending  in  a  n.n.e.  direction, 
now  opens,  bounded  by  the  towering  Cader-Idris.  In  front  appears  the 
Caernarvon  range,  which  gradually  ascends  from  its  s.  w.  extremity,  till  it 
reaches  the  pointed  summit  at  Snowdon.  After  a  walk  of  4  m.  reach  a  border 
of  peat  moss,  which  extends  far  into  the  sea.  Towyn,  1  m. 

Fishing  Stations. — Gwmws-Isaf,  10  m. ;  Clarach,  3  m.;  Llanddeiniol, 
on  the  Gwyj'i,  7  no.,  a  good  stream;  Flavian,  8  m.,  on  the  Ystwith; 
Maesmawr,  8  m.;  Ysbutty  Ystrad  Meyric,  13m.;  an  excellent  station, 
surrounded  by  other  fine  streams. 


To  Pont-y-Mynach,  or  Devil’s  Bridge,  12  miles. 
Barber  ;  Evans  ;  Skrine. 

Pont-y-Mynach  and  back.  Aikin, 

Towyn,  12  miles.  Aikin. 

Tregaron,  18  miles.  Malkin. 

Machynlleth,  18  miles,  Wyndhamj  Warner, 


To  Aberaeron,  15  miles.  Warner’s  2d  Walk. 
Plinlimmon,  about  16  miles. 
Llanbadarn-fawr,  li  mile.  Lipscomb, 
Rhaiadyr,  by  new  road,  32  miles. 
Llanidloes,  by  new  road,  about  28  miles. 


AMLWCH. 


from  Holyhead,  20  miles.  Bingley.  From  Llanelian,  li  mile.  Pennant. 

Llanerch  y  medd,  6  miles.  Aikin.  Menai  Bridge,  24^  miles. 

Beaumaris,  23  miles.  Warner  ;  Pugh. 


AMLWCH,  so  called,  probably,  from  the  name  of  a  contiguous 
lake,  am  about,  and  Ilwch,  a  sandy  beach,  is  situated  on  the  n.  coast  of 
Anglesea,  and  was  in  I766  a  village  or  hamlet,  consisting  of  only  six 
houses;  but,  as  the  works  of  the  high  table  land  of  Trysclw’yn,  or 
Parys  Mountain,  increased,  this  place  augmented  to  the  size  of  a  market- 
town.  The  return  made  to  government  in  1831  stated  the  population 
amounted  to  6285.  In  1352  it  consisted  of  only  eight  domiciles. 


AMLWCH. 


35 


Amlwch  is  a  borough  in  conjunction  with  Holyhead  and  Llangefni, 
contributary  to  Beaumaris,  and  sharing  in  the  return  of  one  member  of 
parliament. 

The  Church,  to  which  Llanwenllwyfo  is  subordinate,  is  dedicated 
to  St.  Elaeth,  surnamed  cannaicl,  the  Bright,”  and  is  a  spacious  and 
handsome  structure,  erected  by  the  Parys  Mine  Company,  at  the  expense 
of  4000/.  Except  the  great  promontory  of  Holyhead,  this,  which  per¬ 
petuates  the  name  of  Elian,  is  the  highest  point  of  land  upon  the  coast 
of  Anglesea. 

There  are  three  places  of  worship  each  for  Calvinistic  and  M^esleyan  Me¬ 
thodists,  and  one  each  for  Baptists  and  Independents.  In  1821  National 
School  was  established,  adapted  to  the  reception  of  300  children,  where 
240  receive  gratuitous  instruction.  The  building  was  erected  at  an  expense 
uf  1,200/.  defrayed  by  subscription,  to  the  support  of  which  the  interest 
of  Mr.  Kynmer’s  donation  of  311/.  has  since  been  appropriated.  The 
charitable  donations  distributed  annually  by  the  minister  and  churchwardens 
amount  to  44/.  The  principal  inn  is  Ty-mawr. 

Trysclwyn  has  become  important  from  the  celebrated  Parys  Mountain 
(probably  from  a  Robert  Parys,  chamberlain  of  North  Wales,  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  IV.).  The  aspect  of  the  hill,  rising  into  enormous  rocks  of 
coarse  aluminous  shale  and  whitish  quartz,  is  very  rugged.  It  is 
generally  believed  that  the  Romans  obtained  copper  ore  from  this  mountain, 
for  vestiges  are  yet  left  of  what  was  taken  for  their  operations ;  and  some 
very  ancient  stone  utensils  have,  at  different  times,  been  turned  up.  A 
round  cake  was  found  at  Llanvaethlu,  a  few  miles  distant,  weighing  50  lb. 
stamped  with  a  mark  resembling  an  L.  From  the  time  of  the  Romans  to 
the  year  1761,  these  three  mines  seem  to  have  been  entirely  neglected. 
Many  and  repeated  attempts  were  made  from  the  year  1757  to  1762  by 
Sir  Nicholas  Bayley,  without  success,  when,  at  the  suggestion  of  Frazer,  a 
Scotch  miner,  Messrs.  Roe  and  Co.  of  Macclesfield  took  a  lease  of  the  mine 
of  Penrhyn-du  with  part  of  the  Parys  Mountain,  from  Sir  Nicholas  Bayley, 
father  of  Lord  Uxbridge,  which  expired  about  1792.  Considerable  sums 
of  money  had  been  expended  by  the  company  in  making  levels  to  drain  off 
the  water  from  the  latter  mine,  without  any  hope  of  success  :  they  had, 
indeed,  nearly  given  up  all  farther  attempts.  Their  agent  was,  however, 
determined  to  make  a  final  experiment  in  another  part  of  the  mountain. 
This  fortunately  succeeded ;  for,  in  less  than  two  days,  ore  of  almost  pure 
copper  was  found;  within  two  yards  of  the  surface,  which  proved  to  be  that 
vast  bed  since  wrought  to  infinite  advantage.  The  day  of  this  discovery 
was  the  2d  of  March,  1768,  the  anniversary  of  which  has  ever  since  been 
ol  served  as  a  festival,  St.  Chad  being  considered  the  patron  saint.  The 
Pv-ev.  Edward  Hughes,  a  proprietor  of  another  part  of  this  mountainous 
ridge,  proved  equally  successful.  The  bed  of  ore  was  in  some  places  more 
than  sixty  feet  in  thickness ;  and  the  proprietors  are  said  at  one  period  to 
have  shipped  30,000  tons  annually. 

The  Parys  and  Mona  mines  are  both  situated  in  the  same  vein,  which 
exceeds,  in  some  places,  100  yards,  descending  to  an  unknown  depth.  The 
principal  vein  contains  ore  in  what  the  workmen  term  bellies,’’  and  these 
afterwards  constitute  what  they  call  “  stock-works,” 

At  the  summit  of  Trysclwyn  we  stand  on  the  verge  of  a  vast  and  ter¬ 
rific  hollow,  the  sides  of  which  are  mostly  perpendicular.  Along 
the  edges  are  the  stages  with  the  whimsies  by  which  the  buckets  are 
lowered  ;  from  which  the  men  descend  to  their  stations  upon  the  sides. 
Here  suspended,  the  workman  picks,  with  an  iron  instrument,  a  place  for  a 

D  2 


36 


AMLWCH, 


footing,  whence  he  cuts  out  the  ore,  and  tumbles  it  to  the  bottom.  After 
working  the  place  into  a  cavern  he  removes  to  a  new  station.  In  the  Parys 
mountain  are  two  mines.  Of  these,  that  upon  the  e.  side,  called  the  Mona 
Mine,  was  the  entire  property  of  the  Marquess  of  Anglesea.  The  Parys 
Mine,  the  joint  property  of  the  Marquess  of  Anglesea  and  Lord  Dinorben  ; 
but  the  earl’s  interest  in  both  was  disposed  of  to  a  Cornwall  company. 
After  the  ore  is  obtained  it  is  broken  into  small  pieces,  and  piled  in  a  kiln 
resembling  those  used  for  lime,  with  a  contrivance  to  take  out  at  the  bottom 
the  roasted  ore,  and  thus  keep  up  a  perpetual  fire.  From  the  neck  of  the 
kiln  branches  off  a  single  flue,  which  conveys  the  sulphur  into  a  receiving 
chamber,  built  so  as  to  he  on  a  level  with  the  neck  of  the  kiln,  i.  e.  above 
the  ore.  The  two  smelting  houses,  of  which  one  belongs  to  each  company, 
contain  a  vast  number  of  reverberatory  furnaces  :  the  chimneys  are  41  feet 
high.  They  are  charged  every  five  hours  with  12  cwt.  of  ore,  which  yields 
^  cwt.  of  rough  copper,  containing  50  per  cent,  of  pure  nietal.  The  coals 
are  procured  from  Swansea  and  Liverpool,  a  great  portion  of  which  is 
Wigan  Slack, 

The  sulphate  of  copper,  however,  is  the  richest  ore  which  the  mine 
yields,  containing  about  50  per  cent,  of  pure  metal.  This  is  found  in  so¬ 
lution  at  the  bottom  of  the  mine,  whence  it  is  pumped  up  into  cisterns,  like 
tanners’  pits,  about  two  feet  deep.  Of  these  there  are  many  ranges,  each 
communicating  with  a  shallow  pool  of  considerable  extent,  into  which  are 
put  cast-iron  plates,  and  other  damaged  iron  vessels ;  when  the  sulphuric 
acid  enters  into  combination  with  the  iron,  depositing  the  copper  in  the 
form  of  a  very  slightly  oxidated  residuum.  The  cisterns  are  cleared  once 
in  a  quarter  of  a  year ;  when  the  sulphate  of  iron  in  solution  is  let  off  into 
a  shallow  pool,  the  copper  taken  to  a  kiln,  dried  well,  and  is  then  ready  for 
exportation.  The  sulphate  of  iron  remaining  in  the  pool  partly  decomposes 
by  spontaneous  evaporation,  and  yields  an  ochreous  deposition,  which  is  dried, 
and  shipped  to  Liverpool  and  London.  One  ton  of  iron,  thus  immersed, 
produces  about  two  tons  of  copper-mud,  each  of  which,  when  smelted, 
will  average  l6  cwt.  of  copper ;  but  the  precipitate  depends  much  on 
the  quality  of  iron  used.  If  wrought  iron  he  immersed  in  mineral  water,  and 
left  undisturbed  till  dissolved,  the  result  will  be  nearly  its  own  weight  of  pure 
copper  which,  from  the  superior  quality,  sells  at  a  much  higher  price  in  the 
market  than  that  obtained  from  the  smelted  ore.  This  mode  of  pre¬ 
cipitating  copper  from  its  solvent,  by  the  decomposing  power  of  another 
metal,  is  not  a  recent  discovery.  It  was  known  more  than  a  century  ago 
to  the  workmen  in  the  mines  of  Hungary,  where  it  was  termed  ziment 
copper ;  it  was  also  practised  in  the  Wicklow  mines  in  Ireland,  anterior 
to  the  adoption  of  the  process  here.  The  number  of  men  employed  in  the 
underground  workings  of  the  Mona  Mine,  in  1806,  were  227;  the  con¬ 
sumption  of  gunpowder  17,0361b.  and  of  candles  26,2831b.  In  1807 
237  were  employed:  the  consumption  of  gunpowder  was  25,3451b.  and  of 
candles  23,321  lb.  In  1808,  122  men  were  employed:  6300  lb.  of  gun¬ 
powder  and  9200  lb.  of  candles  w^ere  consumed.  Subsequent  to  these 
periods  the  energy  in  working  considerably  relaxed.  The  sulphur  produced 
by  roasting  the  poorer  kind  of  ores,  after  being  melted  and  refined,  is  cast 
into  rolls  and  sent  to  London.  The  cones  are  chiefly  used  for  manu¬ 
facturing  gunpowder  and  sulphuric  acid.  An  alum  work  and  green  vitriol 
manufactory  are  conducted  here  upon  a  very  admirable  plan.  This 
mountain  also  produces  an  ore  of  which  in  a  similar  manner  is 

exposed  to  the  roasting  kilns,  and  becomes  amalgamated  with  sulphuric 
particles.  It  is  then  dissolved  in  water,  and,  after  the  process  of  evaporation 
and  crystallisation,  sent  to  the  London  market.  Nature  has  been  profuse 


AMLWCH. 


37 


in  bestowing  her  mineral  favours  on  this  spot ;  for  above  the  copper  ore, 
and  not  more  than  three  quarters  of  a  yard  beneath  the  common  soil,  is  a  bed 
of  yellowish  saponaceous  clay,  from  one  to  four  yards  thick,  containing  lead 
ore,  and  yielding  from  600  to  1000  lbs.  weight  from  one  ton.  One  ton  of 
metal  yields  not  less  than  57  ounces  of  silver.  Mixed  with  the  earth  are 
frequently  certain  parts  of  the  colour  of  cinnabar.  From  this  mountain 
arises  a  mineral  water,  without  any  signs  of  chalybeate.  To  enumerate 
the  minerals  found  in  this  vicinity,  from  time  to  time,  would  prove  tedious. 
The  following  are  the  principal  and  most  useful : — yellow  sulphurated 
copper-ore  ;  native  copper,  in  small  quantities ;  sulphate  of  copper,  both 
crystallised  and  in  solution  ;  sulphate  of  lead,  containing  a  small  portion  of 
silver ;  black  ore,  containing  copper  with  galena,  calamine,  and  some 
silver  ;  native  sulphur.  In  order  to  view  these  mines  most  advantageously 
a  guide  should  be  employed ;  the  traveller  may  then  with  safety  trace 
Mr.  Bingley’s  steps,  who  thus  describes  his  visit :  —  Having  ascended 
to  the  top  of  the  celebrated  Parys  Mountain,  I  found  myself  standing 
upon  the  verge  of  a  vast  and  tremendous  chasm.  I  stepped  on  one 
of  the  stages  suspended  over  the  edge  of  the  steep,  and  the  prospect  was 
dreadful.  The  number  of  caverns  at  different  heights  along  the  sides  ; 
the  broken  and  irregular  masses  of  rock,  which  every  where  presented 
themselves ;  the  multitudes  of  men  at  work  in  different  parts,  and  ap¬ 
parently  in  the  most  perilous  situations  ;  the  motions  of  the  whimsies,  and 
the  raising  and  lowering  of  the  buckets  to  draw  out  the  ore  and  rubbish  ; 
the  noise  of  picking  the  ore  from  the  rock,  and  of  hammering  the  wadding 
when  it  was  about  to  be  blasted  ;  wdth,  at  intervals,  the  roar  of  the  blasts  in 
distant  parts  of  the  mine,  altogether  excited  the  most  sublime  ideas,  inter¬ 
mixed,  however,  with  sensations  of  terror.  I  left  this  situation  and  followed 
the  road  that  leads  into  the  mine;  and  the  moment  I  entered,  my  astonish¬ 
ment  was  again  excited.  The  shagged  arches  and  overhanging  rocks, 
which  seemed  to  threaten  annihilation  to  any  one  daring  enough  to  approach 
them,  fixed  me  almost  motionless  to  the  spot.  The  roofs  of  the  work, 
having  in  many  places  fallen  in,  have  left  some  of  the  rudest  scenes  that 
the  imagination  can  paint :  these,  with  the  sulphurous  fumes  from  the 
kilns  in  which  the  ore  is  roasted,  gave  it  to  me  a  perfect  counterpart  to 
Virgil’s  entrance  into  Tartarus.  To  look  up  from  hence,  and  observe  the 
people  on  the  stages  a  hundred  feet  above  one’s  head  ;  to  see  the  immense 
number  of  ropes  and  buckets,  most  of  them  in  motion,  and  to  reflect  that 
a  single  stone,  casually  thrown  from  above,  or  falling  from  a  bucket,  might 
in  a  moment  destroy  a  fellow-creature,  a  man  must  have  a  strong  mind, 
not  to  feel  impressed  with  most  unpleasant  sensations. 

There  has  lately  been  discovered  on  the  property  of  Lord  Hinorben,  in 
the  parish  of  Llanwenllwyfo,  Anglesea,  and  in  the  immediate  neighbour¬ 
hood  of  the  Parys  and  Mona  mines,  a  very  rich  vein  of  copper  almost  in  a 
pure  state,  much  purer  than  the  copper  used  in  the  coinage  of  1799* 
Hence  arises  a  question  whether  the  stratum  in  which  it  is  embedded 
may  not  have  been  fused  by  subterranean  heat,  so  powerfully  as  to  disen¬ 
gage  the  ore  from  its  matrix,  and  run  it  into  the  form  in  which  it  is  now 
discovered.  The  mines  are  still  prolific  in  their  production  of  copper,  and 
afford  a  considerable  revenue  to  their  respective  proprietors.  This  dis¬ 
covery  is  indeed  seasonable  to  the  population  of  Amlwch,  as  the  mines 
were  apparently  nearly  exhausted. 

Not  far  from  Parys  Mountain  is  the  port  whence  the  ore  brought  from 
the  mines  is  transported  to  Liverpool  and  Swansea.  It  is  a  chasm  between 
two  rocks,  large  enough  to  receive  thirty  vessels,  each  200  tons.  The 

D  3 


38 


AMLWCH. 


proprietor  of  the  mines  formerly  employed  fifteen  brigs_,  from  100  to  150 
tons  burden_,  besides  many  smaller  vessels. 

As  there  exists  no  direct  road  of  communication  between  Beaumaris, 
Menai  Bridge,  and  Amlwch,  a  committee  is  formed  to  inspect  and  survey 
that  line,  with  a  view  to  the  probable  expense  of  its  completion. 

Though  much  improved  by  the  copper  companies,  this  port  is  so  exposed 
to  the  swell  of  the  ocean  as  to  make  it  difficult  and  dangerous  of  access 
during  the  prevalence  of  high  northerly  winds.  Near  Amlwch  are  the 
remains  of  a  British  fortress  called  Dinas  ;  also  the  ancient  well,  Fynnon 
Elaeth.  The  whole  of  this  coast  consists  of  recesses  of  various  forms 
and  dimensions,  with  lofty  projecting  promontories.  At  Camlyn  Bay,  about 
8  m.  from  Amlwch,  are  quarries  of  marble. 

To  Carnarvon  advance  to  Plds-Gwyn,  once  the  residence  of  Paul 
Panton,  Esq.,  a  character  distinguished  for  his  acquaintance  with  the  history 
and  antiquities  of  Wales,  who  left  a  valuable  collection  of  Welsh  MSS.  In 
addition  to  his  own  collection  of  papers,  he  became  possessed  of  the  bool  a 
which  belonged  to  the  Rev.  Evan  Evans,  author  of  Welsh  poems  with 
Latin  translations,  prefaced  by  a  learned  Dissertatio  de  Bardis,”  and 
other  works.  This  valuable  collection  Mr.  Pan  ton  obtained,  in  consequence 
of  having  settled  20/.  a  year,  towards  the  close  of  his  life,  on  that 
victim  of  misfortune. 

Cemmaes,  5  m.,  is  a  small  village,  which  stands  on  a  little  creek,  opening 
into  a  most  beautiful  bay,  about  a  mile  across,  on  the  northern  side  of  the 
Isle  of  Anglesea.  It  affords  a  shipping  place  for  the  exportation  of  the 
serpentine  or  Mona  marble,  called  by  statuaries  verd-antique,”  quarried 
in  the  adjacent  parish  of  Llanvechell.  Its  entrance  into  the  main  sea  is 
guarded  on  each  side  by  a  craggy  promontory,  the  one  of  grey  the  other 
of  snow-white  marble,  smooth  as  the  surface  of  a  mirror ;  and,  when 
illuminated  by  the  sun,  its  sparkling  transparency  baffles  description.  In 
the  interior  recesses  of  the  bay,  a  bank  of  black  shale  finely  contrasts  with 
a  lofty  irregular  projecting  arch  of  white  marble,  perforated  by  the 
constant  action  of  the  waves. 

To  Beaumaris,  from  Llan  Elian,  the  road  continues  at  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  from  the  sea  till  we  enter  the  cultivated  glen  of  Dulas,  shaded  with 
ash  and  lime  trees.  A  respectable  house  here  is  called  Llys  Dulas.  We 
may  cross  the  sands  at  Dulas  Bay,  where  is  a  harbour  for  small  vessels. 
Near  its  n.  point  is  a  small  island  called  Ynis-Gadarn,  and  2  m.  e.  is 
Dulas  Islet,  a  reef  of  rocks  1  m.  in  length.  Skirt  another  sandy  bay  to 
the  s.  of  Moelfra  Point.  At  the  last  place,  the  green  slate  rock  is  inter¬ 
rupted  by  limestone,  which  continues  to  bound  the  island  along  the  remainder 
of  the  E.  coast  to  the  entrance  of  Beaumaris  Bay.  Traeth-Coch,  or  lied 
Wharf,  is  2  m.  from  a  public-house  near  Moelfra  point.  From  an  emi¬ 
nence  near,  Traeth-Coch  presents  a  grand  panoramic  view.  The  w.  horn 
of  the  bay,  called  Castell-Mawr,  or  the  Mount,  is  supposed,  from  some 
coins  and  other  remains  which  have  been  discovered,  to  have  formed  the 
site  of  a  Roman  fortification.  On  the  n.  side  there  are  some  valuable 
quarries  of  black  marble,  with  which  the  new  pier  at  Holyhead  was  prin¬ 
cipally  built.  Upon  the  w.  side  of  the  bay  an  abundance  of  limestone  is 
obtained.  Passing  over  the  sands  to  the  e.  side,  we  may  take  the  direct 
road,  as  there  is  nothing  interesting  by  the  circuitous  route  along  the  coast. 
From  the  high  land  which  rises  from  the  bay,  the  Caernarvonshire  moun¬ 
tains  open  most  grandly.  The  country  continues  rough  and  dreary  till  we 
gain  the  precincts  of  Baron  Hill,  the  seat  of  Sir  R.  B.  Williams,  Bart. 
Arriving  at  the  brink  of  a  long  elevation  descend  through  a  beautiful  avenue 


AMLWCH. 


39 

of  trees,  catching  glimpses  through  the  foliage  to  the  r.  of  the  Menai  and 
the  mountains,  with  highly  adorned  grounds  upon  the  1.  The  huge  Pen- 
maen-mawr  closes  the  vista.  At  the  bottom  of  this  hill,  on  a  flat  border¬ 
ing  the  Menai,  stands  Beaumaris.  Proceed  to  the  mansion  of  Plds  Newydd, 
through  the  park,  an  enclosure  which  gently  slopes  to  the  Menai,  and  is 
covered  with  venerable  oak  and  ash.  This  is  a  magniflcent  castellated 
structure ;  it  was  altered  and  enlarged  by  the  Marquis  of  Anglesea,  at 
an  immense  expense,  and  it  commands  a  view  of  the  picturesque  strait  on 
the  banks  of  which  it  stands.  In  front  appears  the  Snowdonian  chain. 
There  is  a  path  through  the  Park,  to  a  ferry  of  the  same  name.  In  the 
midst  of  this  sylvan  scene  stand  two  relics  of  Druidic  superstition  or 
infamy,  called  cromlechs. 

In  passing  to  Holyhead  occurs  Birwan^  I  m.  (On  the  x.  Bull  Bay, 
Trwyn-melin  Point  and  Eastej'ly  Mouse  Islet.')  Llanbadrig,  3  m.  The 
small  port  of  Cemmaes.  The  village  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  narrow 
sheltered  creek,  which  opens  into  a  sandy  bay,  bounded  on  each  side  by  a 
low  promontory  of  limestone.  The  creek  is  visited  by  a  few  sloops,  which 
bring  coal  and  culm,  and  carry  out  corn.  The  marble  called  serpentine,’^ 
from  the  quarries  of  Messrs.  G.  Bullock  and  Co.,  is  shipped  here  for 
London.  About  I  m.  out  of  the  public  road  is  a  cromlech,  and  ^  m.  from  the 
former  is  another,  the  coping  stone  of  which  has  been  taken  away.  I  m.  on 
the  1.  of  Cemmaes  is  Llanfechell,  in  which  parish  is  a  prostrate  cromlech, 
and  some  quarries  of  very  curious  and  beautiful  marble.  In  one  it  is  of  a 
simple  unmixed  colour,  exactly  resembling  porphyry  ;  in  another,  at  the  dis¬ 
tance  of  not  more  than  50  yards,  it  is  variegated.  Some  contain  crystalline 
limestone  in  small  patches,  with  spots  and  veins  of  quartz  and  asbestos. 
This  district,  to  the  n.  w.  of  Amlwch,  consists  principally  of  an  extensive 
sandy  plain,  which,  from  a  few  instances  of  its  effects  of  cultivation,  exhibits 
marks  of  great  fertility.  The  coast  is  intersected  by  several  creeks  and 
bays.  At  short  distances  from  the  shore  are  3  islets,  called  the  East 
Mouse,  Middle  Mouse,  and  West  Mouse.  The  middle  one  is  usually 
named  Ynys-Badrig,  from  a  circumstance  recorded  in  the  legendary  life 
of  the  great  Irish  evangelist  St. Patrick  ;  and  upon  the  opposite  point  stands 
a  church  denominated  after  him  Llanbadrig.  At  a  short  distance  is  Cam- 
lyn  Bay,  which  receives  the  river  Gwygir.  About  3  m.  beyond  Com- 
maes  rs,  Llanrbwydrys,  near  which  is  the  West  Mouse  Island,  or  Maen- 
higel ;  and  in  front  of  the  village,  about  half  a  league  from  the  shore,  lies 
Ynys-y-Moel-Bhoniaid,  or  Isle  of  Seals,  commonly  called  the  Skerries.  Two 
men  with  their  wives  live  upon  the  island,  and  have  each  a  cottage.  It 
contains  about  a  dozen  poor  sheep,  and  a  few  rabbits,  and  is  seldom  visited 
except  in  the  season  of  puffins.  The  surface  of  the  island  is  composed 
principally  of  bare  or  half  covered  rocks.  Upon  its  highest  elevation  a 
lighthouse,  was  erected  about  the  year  1730,  for  the  convenience  of  ships 
navigating  between  Ireland  and  the  ports  of  Liverpool  and  Chester.  The 
lantern  is  120  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  building  cost  3000/. 
The  expense  of  lighting  it  with  oil,  and  other  charges,  is  about  1000/.  annu¬ 
ally;  but  it  is  said  to  have  produced  4000/.  yearly  to  M.  Jones,  Esq.,  of 
Cardigan,  the  proprietor,  raised  by  an  impost  on  vessels  passing  that  way  to 
Liverpool  and  Chester. 

The  fishery  on  this  coast  belongs  to  the  church  of  Bangor.  About  the 
cliffs  of  this  island  were  abundance  of  coal-fish,  cod,  whiting,  and  what  the 
Welsh  call  gwiniad,  the  Labrus  tinea  of  Linnseus ;  but,  about  the  year 
1805,  a  vessel  laden  with  copper  was  wrecked  on  the  s.  w.  point  of  the 
islet,  and  since  that  time  none  have  been  caught.  The  sea  fowl  which 

D  4 


40 


AMLWCH. 


frequent  this  place  are  chiefly  terns,  or  sea- swallows.  They  appear  in 
summer  and  depart  the  latter  end  of  August.  There  are  but  few  puffins. 
1  m.  from  Llanrhwydrys  is  a  house  called  the  Lodge,  and  Mynachtu, 
anciently  the  site  of  a  religious  edifice,  where  are  yet  the  remains  of  a 
chapel.  On  the  1.  is  a  road  to  Llanfairynghornwy ;  1 1  m.  midway  is  Caeriau. 
About  1  m.  from  this  village  is  one  of  those  ancient  monuments  called 
meini  hirion,  consisting  of  three  large  upright  stones,  standing  at  the  distance 
of  about  500  yards  one  from  the  other.  In  the  vicinity  of  these  are  two  circular 
encampments,  with  a  single  foss  and  vallum,  called  Castell-Crwn  j  and  not 
far  distant,  in  the  parish  of  Llanflewyn,  were  dug  up,  some  years  ago,  three 
golden  bracelets,  and  a  bulla  of  the  same  metal,  in  excellent  preservation. 
These  were  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Pennant.  This  well-known  ornament 
of  the  Roman  boys  was  worn  as  an  amulet.  Leave  Camel’s  Point  on  the  r., 

and  proceed  2  m.  to  Llanrhuddlad,  where  resides - Williams,  Esq. 

Mr.  Pugh,  though  unknown,  introduced  himself  as  a  tourist  and  artist,  and 
speaks  very  highly  of  the  attentions  of  this  family.  Mr.  Williams’s  sons 
explored  the  coast  with  him.  He  speaks  of  the  sea  breaking  into  sight 
with  grandeur  ;  of  the  incrusted  rock  called  the  Bishop  s  Throne;  and  of  the 
fine  scenery  about  Camel’s  Point  as  far  as  Llanrwydrys.  The  Skerries 
lighthouse,  and  ridge  of  rocks  called  the  Cardinals,  are  seen  to  great 
advantage  from  this  shore.  1  m.  further  is  Carey  Llwyd,  a  good  mansion, 
with  fine  plantations,  the  residence  of  the  benevolent  Holland  Griffith,  Esq., 
by  whose  spirited  and  patriotic  example  and  encouragement  the  agricul¬ 
ture  of  this  district  has  been  much  improved.  Llanfaethlu,  ^  m.  (2  m. 
further  on  the  r.  is  Plds-y-OlynnS)  Llanfwrog,  2|  m.  Passing  through 
Llanfachraith,  f  m.,  enter  the  London  road  at  Llanenghenel,  and  cross  a 
common  called  Towyn-y-Capel.  Near  the  road  is  an  artificial  mount,  and 
upon  its  summit  the  poor  remains  of  Capel  Sanffraid.  Over  the  sands,  which 
are  fordable  at  very  low  water,  to  Penrhos,  2  m.,  where  is  Penrhds  Hall, 
a  handsome  modern  mansion,  the  residence  of  Sir  Thomas  Stanley,  Bart. 

Upon  Penrhyn  above  Penrhos,  which  is  a  cliff  projecting  into  the  sea, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  e.  of  the  mansion,  is  a  spot  which  has  been  for 
many  centuries  the  residence  of  the  family  of  Owen,  descended  from  one 
of  the  five  sons  of  Hwva  ap  Cynddelw,  lord  of  Llivon,  represented  by  Lady 
Stanley.  Hwva  was  cotemporary  with  Owen  Gwynedd,  Prince  of  N. 
Wales.  His  great  chamberlain  founded  one  of  the  15  tribes,  and  gene¬ 
rally  resided  at  Presaddfed.  His  five  sons  inherited  his  princely  property, 
extending  from  Aberfraw  to  Holyhead,  and  including  a  great  part  of  the 
interior  of  Anglesea :  the  whole  island  being  at  that  period  divided 
between  this  chieftain,  Llywarch  ap  Bran,  lord  of  Menai,  Carwed,  lord  of 
Twrcelyn,  Cadrod  Hardd,  lord  of  Talybolion,  and  the  representative  of 
Gweirydd  ap  Rhys  goch,  one  of  the  15  tribes  who  dwelt  at  Cardegog,  in 
the  hundred  of  Talybolion. 

During  the  tremendous  gales  from  this  point,  in  January  and  February, 
1802,  the  Die  Liebe,  a  Dutch  galiot,  bound  from  Rotterdam  to  Ireland, 
and  The  Brothers,  of  Liverpool,  were  wrecked  near  Penrhos  (the  first  at 
midnight,)  where  the  unfortunate  sufferers  found  all  the  comfort  and  atten¬ 
tion  which  beneficence  united  to  affluence  can  happily  bestow. 

Holyhead,  2  m.  This  detached  portion  of  Anglesea,  once  used  as  a 
place  of  interment,  and  hence  called  Holy  Island,  was  regarded  as  pecu¬ 
liarly  sacred.  The  foundations  of  Capel-y- Gorlles  are  still  traceable. 

To  Llanelian,  lA  mile.  Bingley.  To  Caernarvon,  31  miles.  Warner. 

The  village  of  Cemmaes,  5  m.  Back  to  Am-  Holy  head,  20  miles.  Pennant;  Pugh. 

Iwch,  thence  through  Llanerchymecld  to 

Bangor  Ferry,  23  miles.  Aikin. 


ANGLESEA. 


41 


ANGLESEA. 

ANGLESEA.  This  island  forms  one  of  the  six  counties  of  North  Wales. 
It  is  situated  to  the  n.  w.  of  Carnarvonshire,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
a  narrow  arm  of  the  sea,  called  the  straits  of  Menai,  and  contains  upwards 
of  270  square  miles.  The  ancient  Britons  distinguished  this  district  by 
different  names:  as  Ynys-Dywell,  or  Shady  Island ;  Ynys-y-Cedeirn,  from 
its  heroes  or  powerful  Druids  ;  and  Ynys-Fon,  or  Mon,  latinised  into  Mona  ; 
and,  for  the  sake  of  distinguishing  it  from  Mon-Aw,Le.the  Mon  of  the  Water, 
or  Isle  of  Man,  it  is  called  Mon-Vynyz.  The  Saxons  called  it  Angles-Ey, 
or  the  Englishmen’s  Isle.  It  is  probable  that  this  insulated  tract  once  joined 
the  main  land,  as  traces  of  an  isthmus  are  visible  near  Porthaethwy.  There 
a  line  of  rock  jets  out  nearly  across  the  channel,  in  the  broken  interstices  of 
which  the  sea,  at  the  commencement  of  the  flood  tide,  fluctuates  and  foams. 
This  island  was  chosen  by  the  Druids,  or  British  priests,  during  the  perse¬ 
cution  of  the  Romans,  as  an  asylum  ;  but  Roman  ambition  knew  no  bounds. 
Suetonius  Paulinus  having  overcome  the  Ordovices,  who  inhabited  the  ad¬ 
jacent  country,  resolved  to  pass  over  into  Mona.  He  found  no  difficulty  in 
overcoming  a  race  of  unarmed  people  ;  but  his  attention  was  arrested  by  an 
attack  from  the  countries  in  his  rear.  An  army  headed  by  Boadicea 
diverted  the  Roman  army  from  the  remnant  of  the  Druids.  Fifteen  years 
afterwards  the  island  was  again  attacked  and  totally  reduced  by  Julius 
Agricola ;  the  Druids  and  remainder  of  the  inhabitants  falling  a  lamentable 
sacrifice  to  the  most  extreme  outrage  and  cruelty.  The  history  of  those  in¬ 
teresting  events  has  been  given  by  Tacitus,  the  most  accurate  of  the  Roman 
historians.  After  this  conquest,  this  island  formed  a  residence  for  the 
Romans.  They  afterwards,  however,  abandoned  the  country;  and  the 
natives  resumed  the  mode  of  government  under  which  they  formerly  had 
lived,  dividing  the  island  into  petty  sovereignties.  A.  D.  443,  Caswallan 
Law-Jiir  was  deemed  the  superior  lord,  to  whom  the  other  Cambrian  sove¬ 
reigns  paid  homage  and  obedience.  Maelgwyn,  his  son,  succeeded,  from 
whom  sprang,  in  a  direct  line,  Cadwaladr ,  the  last  king  of  the  Romans. 
From  this  period,  the  island  of  Mona  formed  part  of  the  principality  or 
kingdom  of  Gwynedd,  the  kings  of  which  made  Aherfraw  their  chief  place 
of  residence.  Egbert,  who  united  the  Saxon  heptarchy  into  one  govern¬ 
ment,  under  the  name  of  England,  (to  retaliate  the  injuries  committed  upon 
his  subjects  by  the  Welsh,  who  had  formed  an  offensive  alliance  with  the 
Danes,)  invaded  West  Wales,  and  desolated  the  country  as  far  as  Snowdon. 
He  then  advanced  to  Mona ;  and,  after  having  fought  a  most  sanguinary 
battle  with  the  Welsh  forces  at  Llanfaes  near  Beaumaris,  he  took  posses¬ 
sion  of  the  island ;  but  it  was  shortly  recovered  under  the  power  of  the 
Welsh  prince  Mervyn.  During  the  reign  of  William  Rufus,  the  Welsh 
having  committed  various  depredations  on  the  borders,  a  powerful  English 
army  entered  Wales,  and  invaded  this  island,  pouring  a  full  measure  of  vin¬ 
dictive  retaliation  upon  the  inhabitants.  In  the  12th  century  it  suffered  by 
the  contests  between  Cadwaladr  and  his  nephew  Hywel,  who  had  usurped 
the  throne  of  North  Wales.  Shortly  after,  it  was  ravaged  in  a  similar 
contest  between  Prince  David  and  his  brother  Roderig. 

In  1245  the  Irish  landed  in  Anglesea,  and,  fora  time,  carried  desolation 
before  them;  but,  unsupported  by  the  English,  the  infuriated  inhabitants 
drove  them  back  to  their  ships  with  great  slaughter.  Edward  I.  became 


42  ANGLESEA. 

the  deadly  foe  of  these  islanders;  for,  passing  the  straits  of  the  Menai  by  a 
bridge  of  boats,  at  a  place  called  Moel-y-don,  he  attacked  the  Welsh  army 
under  Llywelyn  ap  Gruffydd,  which  made  a  brave  resistance.  Notwith¬ 
standing  this  repulse,  the  English  afterwards  gained  complete  possession  of 
the  island.  Anglesea  is  surrounded  by  the  Irish  sea,  except  on  the  side  of 
the  Menai  Straits.  On  this  strait  were  established  four  ferries ;  %.  e.  Aber- 
menai,  the  most  s. ;  3  m.  to  the  n.  of  which  is  that  of  Tal-y-Foel,  near 
Carnarvon  ;  4  m.  further,  Moel-y-don  ;  (3  m.  beyond  which  is  that  stu¬ 
pendous  monument  of  human  ingenuity,  the  Menai  Bridge,  over  the  nar¬ 
rowest  part  of  the  straits,  the  breadth  there  not  exceeding  half  a  mile  ;)  and 
the  fourth  and  longest  at  high  water  is  between  the  village  of  Aber,  and 
the  town  of  Beaumaris.  [See  Bangor.]  The  form  of  the  island  is  irregu¬ 
lar,  being  indented  with  numerous  small  bays  and  creeks.  The  average 
length  from  n.w.  to  s.e.  is  about  20  m. ;  the  breadth,  from  n.e.  to  s.w. 
about  l6;  and  the  circumference  76;  comprising  about  173,000  acres  of 
land.  The  commons  or  waste  lands  amount  to  between  12,000  and  13,000 
acres,  of  which  about  9000  are  level  and  highly  improveable.  At  present 
they  yield  very  little  profit,  having  their  surface  continually  pared  by  the 
poor  for  fuel.  The  Anglesea  Agricultural  Society  is  conducted  with  great 
spirit  under  the  patronage  of  T.  Williams,  Esq.,  of  Beaumaris,  and  T.  P. 
Williams,  of  Craig-y-Don,  M.P.  A  Shipwreck  Society  extends  its  bene¬ 
ficent  aid  throughout  the  island.  It  contains  four  market  towns;  i.  e.  New- 
BOROUGH,  Beaumaris,  Llanerchymedd,  and  Holyhead.  By  returns 
made  under  the  population  act,  in  1801,  the  island  contained  6680  houses 
and  33,806  inhabitants.  In  1811  the  returns  were  7185  inhabited  houses; 
72  were  building  ;  5376  families  were  chiefly  employed  in  agriculture,  and 
1413  in  trade ;  17,444  were  males,  and  19,601  females. 

Anglesea  is  in  the  diocese  ef  Bangor  and  province  of  Canterbury;  and 
sends  one  knight  to  parliament  for  the  shire  and  one  representative  for  the 
boroughs.  Assizes  and  sessions  are  held  at  Beaumaris,  where  there  are  a 
county  gaol  and  house  of  correction.  The  climate  is  mild  and  more  temperate 
than  the  adjoining  counties  of  North  Wales,  arising  from  the  sea  breezes  ; 
but,  owing  to  the  same  circumstance,  is  incommoded  with  frequent  mists  in 
the  autumn,  which  occasion  a  damp  atmosphere,  subjecting  the  inhabitants 
to  intermittents.  The  face  of  the  country  produces  no  lofty  mountains  nor 
deep  valleys,  neither  is  it  greatly  diversified  with  hills  and  dales.  The  in¬ 
terior  parts  being  devoid  of  wood,  the  greater  part  of  the  land  is  uninclosed, 
and,  having  few  hedges,  the  country  assumes  a  very  dreary  aspect,  suggest¬ 
ing  the  idea  of  sterility  ;  yet  this  is  not  the  real  state  of  the  case,  for  the 
SOIL  is  in  general  very  good,  and,  under  proper  management,  highly  pro¬ 
ductive.  It  is  generally  a  fine  loamy  sand.  The  substance  used  as  manure  is 
lime  or  marine  sand.  Corn  and  cattle  constitutes  the  chief  products.  In  favour¬ 
able  seasons  large  quantities  of  barley  and  oats  are  exported  either  to  Liver¬ 
pool  or  across  the  Menai;  and  many  thousand  cattle,  besides  sheep  and  hogs  . 
pass  over  the  ferries  for  the  English  markets.  The  island  possesses  great 
capabilities ;  for  a  considerable  portion  of  land  remains  in  a  swampy  state 
for  want  of  draining  ;  many  of  the  flat  lands  near  the  sea  are  covered 
with  sand,  which  might  easily  be  converted  into  grazing  land  or  other  pur¬ 
poses.  Anglesea  possesses  no  inland  navigation.  It  is  well  watered  by 
twelve  rivulets  ;  the  principal  of  which  are  the  Cevenny,  Alann,  Fraw,  and 
Dulas.  From  Harrison’s  ‘^‘^Description  of  Britain,”  b.  i.  c.  10.,  Anglesea 
appears  to  have  been  a  place  of  great  trade,  and  the  names  of  ports  and 
havens  yet  remaining  confirm  the  account.  These  harbours  are  numerous, 
and  capable  of  great  improvement  and  benefit.  Beaumaris  is  still  a  good 


ANGLESEA. 


4S 

harbour,  and  with  its  two  creeks  may  be  considered  a  member  of  the  port  of 
Chester.  To  the  n.  is  Red  Wharf  Bay  ;  Dnlas  Bay  ;  Almwch  Port ; 
Cemlyn,  or  Crooked-Pool  Bay ;  Holyhead ;  Aberfraw :  Maltreath,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Cevenny,  might  be  greatly  improved.  Dinas  Lwyd 
and  Bodorgan  are  places  mentioned  as  excellent  situations  for  erecting  piers. 
(  See  Observations  on  the  Sea-coasts  and  Harbours  of  W ales,”  by  Lewis  Morris, 
Esq.)  Anglesea  was  formerly  well  wooded;  but  an  exterminating  system 
has  left  it  so  naked  that,  in  the  interior,  the  few  trees  which  have  been 
planted  have  shrunk  under  the  force  of  the  s.w.  winds.  Even  fences  are 
difficult  to  raise.  The  general  scenery  of  this  district  is  uninteresting  to 
the  traveller  ;  yet,  when  he  has  advanced  a  few  miles  in  a  n.w.  direction, 
splendid  views  may  be  obtained  of  the  immense  alpine  chain  of  Carnar¬ 
vonshire  mountains,  extending  across  that  county  from  Penmaen  to  Traeth- 
mawr  in  one  continued  line.  The  contour  is  varied,  at  irregular  intervals, 
by  the  numerous  diversified  peaks  towering  above  the  rest,  till  they  gradu¬ 
ally  advance  to  the  summit  of  Snowdon ;  and  then,  uniformly  declining, 
they  terminate  in  the  n.  horn  of  Cardigan  Bay.  As  the  traveller  recedes 
from  the  position  he  first  took,  the  connecting  links  of  this  noble  chain  are 
lost  to  the  sight,  the  insulated  summits  appearing  like  so  many  pyramids  in 
the  distant  horizon.  Anglesea  has  frequently  been  represented  as  raising 
great  quantities  of  corn.  Mon  Mam-gymru,  i.  e.  Mona,  the  Mother  of 
Wales,”  is  an  epithet  anciently  applied  to  the  island  by  some  of  her  own 
fond  sons ;  and  Giraldus  Cambrensis,  in  the  12th  century,  gave  this  term 
the  interpretation  of  The  Nursery  of  Wales,”  or,  according  to  others. 

The  Nursing  Mother  of  Wales,”  because  it  supplied  the  other  Welsh 
counties  with  grain  in  times  of  scarcity.  There  may  be  more  imagi¬ 
nation  than  truth  in  Giraldus’s  interpretation,  for  Mr,  Rowlands  did  not 
think  his  native  island  worthy  of  the  appellation  in  the  17th  century. 
(See  his  Idese  Agriculture,”  p.  189*)  Anglesea  is  said  to  have  formerly 
supplied  the  King  of  Man  with  timber.  (See  Sir  John  Price’s  Description 
of  Wales.”)  At  present  the  oaks  are  confined  to  a  narrow  slip  of  land  along 
the  Menai,  extending  from  Baron  Hill  to  Llannidan.  Reduced  as  this  island 
is  nearly  to  nakedness,  plantations  on  a  small  scale  do  not  thrive.  Most  of 
the  exposed  trees  bend  from  the  w.  and  s.w.  winds.  Those  exposed  fully 
to  the  N.  sea  air  bend  to  meet  it,  shunning  the  s.w.  Instances  of  the  last 
assertion  may  be  seen  near  Dulas  Bay.  At  Bodafon  near  Penrhos,  the 
Rev.  Richard  Williams  had  a  plantation  of  about  forty  years’  growth,  con¬ 
sisting  chiefly  of  Scotch  pines,  some  elm,  ash,  and  sycamore.  Some  of  the 
firs  were  feet  in  circumference,  all  of  them  bending,  even  to  an  angle,  to  the 
N.E.  At  Trefterworth  are  some  plantations  well  protected  and  flourishing. 
Were  plantations,  says  the  rector  of  Manafon,  conducted  upon  a  large  scale 
upon  the  w.  coasts  of  Anglesea,  quickset  fences  would  soon  flourish  under 
their  protection  ;  and  both  would  administer  their  joint  benign  influence  to 
the  sheltered  fields  of  corn  and  pasture.  The  island  would  then  surpass  in 
beauty  even  Tempe  :  it  would  become  the  most  delightful  spot  in  Britain. 
The  most  proper  shapes  for  plantations  would  be  parallelograms,  with  their 
shorter  sides  to  the  w.  The  plane,  black  and  abele  poplar,  sycamore,  larch, 
and  hop-willow,  owing  to  the  rapidity  of  their  growth ;  mountain-ash  and 
birch,  from  being  thriving  natives  of  exposed  situations ;  and  most  ever¬ 
greens,  seem  to  be  the  hardiest,  and,  consequently,  best  calculated  to  protect 
the  interior  of  plantations.  (^Bev.  Walter  Davies  s  View  of  North  Wales  f 
p.  232.  472.) 

The  remains  of  antiquity  are  numerous  and  of  great  interest.  Mr,  Row¬ 
land  laboured  to  prove  that  Anglesea  was  the  metropolitan  seat  of  Druidism, 


44 


ANGLESEA. 


which  Mr.  W.  Owen  disputed  with  apparent  success :  he  placed  it  at  Ave- 
bury,  in  Wiltshire.  A  rural  pipe_,  used  by  the  shepherds  for  their  amuse- 
mentj  called  thePibgorn,  in  some  measure  resembling  a  hautboy,  is  said  to  he 
almost  peculiar  to  the  Isle  of  Anglesea.  This  name  is  given  to  it  from 
having  its  extremities  tipped  with  horn.  It  has  seven  holes  besides  the 
aperture  in  which  a  reed  is  concealed.  Its  tone  is  between  the  flute  and 
clarionet.  From  this  instrument  the  obsolete  dance,  called  hornpipe, ori¬ 
ginated. 

The  natural  productions  of  Anglesea  are  multifarious.  Among  the  sub¬ 
terraneous  productions  are  found  various  kinds  of  ochre,  potter’s  clay, 
fuller’s  earth,  breccia  for  millstones,  grey  and  white  marble ;  the  asbestine 
marble  was  found  in  Llanfair-in-hornwy  parish  ;  lead  and  copper  in  Parys’ 
mountain.  The  sea  produces  seaweed  for  kelp  ;  herring,  cod,  whiting, 
turbot,  sole,  plaice,  crabs,  lobsters,  oysters  (those  found  near  Penmaen  are 
highly  esteemed.)  Leland  says,  ‘‘  There  is  a  good  commodity  for  fishing 
about  all  Tir  Mon ;  but  there  lacketh  cunning  and  diligence.”  This  island 
is  celebrated  for  the  variety  of  its  Shell  Fish.  The  following  is  a  list  of 
the  principal  of  these  productions,  from  Bingley  :  — 


Actinia  sulcata,  sulcated  actinia. 
Aphrodita  minuta,  little  aphrodita. 
Aplysia  depilans,  depilatory  aplysia. 
Asterias  oculata,  dotted  star-fish. 

A.  hispida,  hispid  star-fish. 

A.  lacertosa,  lizard  star-fish. 

A.  sphagrulata,  bearded  star-fish. 
Cancer  pisum,  pea  crab. 

C.  longicornis,  long-horned  crab. 

C.  velutinus,  velvet  crab. 

C.  platycheles,  great  clawed  crab. 

C.  Phalangium,  slender  legged  crab. 
C.  Pagurus,  black- clawed  crab. 

C.  Moenas,  common  blue  crab. 

C.  Gammarus,  common  lobster. 

C.  strigosus,  plated  lobster. 

Cardium  echinatum,  echinated  cockle. 
C.  laevigatum,  smooth  cockle. 

C.  edule,  common  cockle. 


Doris  electrina,  amber  doris. 

Echinus  esculentus,  sea  hedgehog. 
Murex  costatus,  ribbed  whilk. 

Mytilus  incurvatus,  crooked  muscle. 
M.  pelucidus,  pellucid  muscle. 

M.  umbilicatus,  umbilicated  muscle. 
Patella  intorta,  inclining  limpit. 
Pecten  leevis,  smooth  scallop. 

P.  glaber,  furrowed  scallop. 

Sabella  alveolata,  honey- comb  sabella. 
Solen  vagina,  scimetar  razor- shell. 

S.  pelucidus,  pellucid  razor-shell. 

S.  legumen,  sub-oval  razor-shell. 
Turbo  la  vis,  smooth  wreath. 

T.  terebra,  auger  wreath. 

T.  fasciatus,  fasciated  wreath. 

Trochus  cinereus,  cinereous  top. 

T.  majus,  tuberculated  top. 

Voluta  tornatilis,  oval  volute. 


The  following  is  a  list  of  the  Plants  of  Anglesea  not  referable  to  par* 
ticular  places :  — 


Agrostis  minima;  sandy  pastures,  s.w. 
coast. 

Apium  graveolens  ;  sides  of  ditches. 

Atriplex  portulacoides  ;  rocks  above  the 
sea,  and  upon  the  s.w.  coast. 

A.  laciniata;  upon  the  s.w.  coast. 

A.  litoralis ;  upon  the  s.w.  coast. 

Artemisia  maritima ;  upon  the  s.w.  coast. 

Beta  maritima ;  muddy  places,  on  the 
s.w.  coast. 

Bunias  Cakile ;  coast  near  Abermenai 
ferry. 

Butomus  umbellatus  ;  in  several  rivulets. 

Cheiranthus  sinuatus;  banks  of  the  Menai. 

Cochlearia  danica;  shore  near  Llanbad- 
ric  church,  on  the  n.  coast. 

Convolvulus  Soldanella ;  on  the  s.  w. 

Comarum  palustre ;  muddy  putrid 
marshes. 

Crithmum  maritimum  ;  on  the  coast. 


Epipactis  palustris  ;  marshy  meadows. 

Euphorbia  portlandica  ;  s.w.  parts. 

Gentiana  Pneumonanthe ;  moist  grounds, 
scarce. 

Hippuris  vulgaris  ;  in  ditches. 

Hydrocotyle  inundatum;  In  rivulets, 
common. 

Hypericum  elodes  ;  swampy  places. 

Lavatera  arborea  ;  on  the  coast. 

Ligustrum  vulgare  ;  in  hedges  in  vari¬ 
ous  parts. 

Lysimachia  vulgaris  ;  about  the  sides  of 
ponds. 

Neottia  spiralis  ;  old  pastures. 

Nymphsea  lutea  ;  in  slow  rivers,  frequent. 

Ophioglossum  vulgatum ;  moist  places 
in  Maes-y-porth  wood. 

Orobanche  major  ;  cliffs  on  the  side  of 
the  Menai. 

Osmunda  Lunaria  ;  old  pastures. 


ANGLESEA. 


45 


O.  regalis ;  pond  sides.  Slum  angustifolium  ;  in  rivulets. 

Phleum  pratense;  with  viviparous  florets.  Utricularia  vulgaris;  in  ditches  and 
Santolina  maritima  ;  on  the  sandy  shore  standing  waters. 

near  Abermenai  ferry.  Veronica  vulgaris;  in  marshy  ground. 

Sisymbrium  monense  ;  in  sandy  soil  near  ^annichellia  palustris ;  in  the  rivers. 

Abermenai  ferry. 

Anglesea  Horticultural  Society  affords  to  the  votaries  of  Flora  and  Po¬ 
mona  an  annual  display  of  its  most  cultivated  productions.  This  institu¬ 
tion  has  given  a  great  stimulus  to  cottage-husbandry  in  this  neighbourhood. 
There  are  no  manufactures  carried  on  in  this  island  of  any  considerable 
importance.  The  few  linen  and  woollen  cloths  made  may  be  considered  as 
specimens  rather  of  private  industry  than  sources  of  public  emolument. 
The  roads  are  generally  goodj  direction-posts  frequent^  and  the  cultivation 
of  the  land  much  more  attended  to  than  formerly.  The  obtaining  of  coals 
at  a  moderate  price  is  a  great  desideratum  in  Anglesea.  Even  while  the 
exuberant  mines  in  the  mountainous  ridge  of  Trysclwyn  were  in  full  work, 
by  far  the  greatest  part  of  the  ore  was  shipped  to  other  places  productive  of 
coal.  The  enormous  high  price  of  coals  in  the  island  operates  as  a  prohi¬ 
bition  of  their  use,  among  the  low  classes  of  the  inhabitants.  Much  time 
must  necessarily  be  employed  in  seeking  fuel.  Peat  and  turf  must  be  dug, 
dried,  carried  home,  and  stacked  or  housed.  Many  cannot  obtain  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  this  firing  ;  hard  necessity  urges  them,  therefore,  to  collect 
sticks,  wood,  gorse,  fern,  &c. ;  thus  the  hedges  are  destroyed  and  the  land 
left  open  and  unprotected.  From  want  of  industry,  and  the  depredations 
of  poverty,  a  district  consisting  of  a  natural  richness  of  soil,  and  other 
advantages,  capable  of  rendering  it  a  luxuriant  paradise,  wears  in  many 
places  the  appearance  of  sterility  and  desertion.  Coals  at  Liverpool  sell 
for  12s.  or  13^.  per  ton.  The  expense  of  freight,  land-carriage,  and  im¬ 
port-duty,  enhance  the  price  to  40^.  The  line  of  depression  between  the 
limestone  boundaries  of  Malldraeth  and  Traeth-coch,  indicates  the  existence 
of  coal;  and  on  this  line  coals  have  been  raised,  under  the  patronage  of  the 
Marquis  of  Anglesea,  Mr.  Meyrick,  and  others.  The  works  are  at  Pentre 
Berew,  near  Llanfihangel.  The  geology  of  this  island  has  received  but 
little  illustration.  The  prevailing  rock  is  clay  slate,  and  granite  occurs  near 
its  centre.  Apparently  isolated  masses  of  the  latter  are  discovered  in  several 
places  among  the  cliffs  of  Anglesea.  This  appearance,  however,  is  usually 
deceptive,  arising  from  the  intersection,  in  a  vertical  precipice,  of  tortuous 
veins  of  granite.  (Camb.  Trans,  vol.  i.)  On  the  s.  e.  and  n.  e.  there  is 
much  limestone  and  gritstone,  accompanied  in  some  places  by  a  few  thin 
and  poor  strata  of  coal. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  examples  of  alteration  in  the  proximity  of 
a  volcanic  dike  occurs  near  Plas  Newydd,  described  by  Professor  Henslow. 
The  dike  is  134  feet  wide,  and  consists  of  basalt  (dolerite  of  some  authors), 
a  compound  of  felspar  and  augite.  Strata  of  shale  and  argillaceous  lime¬ 
stone,  through  which  it  cuts  perpendicularly,  are  altered  to  a  distance  of  30, 
or  even,  in  some  places,  to  35  feet  from  the  edge  of  the  dike.  The  shale, 
as  it  approaches  the  basalt,  becomes  gradually  more  compact,  and  is  most 
indurated  where  nearest  the  junction.  Plere  it  loses  part  of  its  schistose 
structure,  but  the  separation  into  parallel  layers  is  still  discernible.  In 
several  places  the  shale  is  converted  into  hard  porcellanous  jasper.  In  the 
most  hardened  part  of  the  mass,  the  fossil  shells,  principally  Product®,  are 
nearly  obliterated;  yet  even  here  their  impressions  may  frequently  be  traced. 
The  argillaceous  limestone  undergoes  analogous  mutations,  losing  its  earthly 
texture  as  it  approaches  the  dike,  and  becoming  granular  and  crystalline. 


46 


BALA. 


But  the  most  extraordinary  phenomenon  is  the  appearance  in  the  shale  of 
numerous  crystals  of  analcime  and  garnet^  which  are  distinctly  confined  to 
those  portions  of  the  rock  affected  by  the  dike.  Garnets  have  been  observed, 
under  very  analogous  circumstances,  in  High  Teesdale,  by  Professor  Sedg¬ 
wick,  where  they  also  occur  in  shale  and  limestone,  altered  by  a  basaltic 
dike.  This  discovery  is  most  interesting,  because  garnets  often  abound  in 
mica'schist ;  and  we  see,  in  the  instance  above  cited,  that  they  did  not  pre¬ 
viously  exist  in  the  shale  and  limestone,  but  have  evidently  been  produced 
by  heat  or  heated  gases,  in  rocks  in  which  the  marks  of  stratification  have 
not  been  effaced.’’  {JLyelVs  Geology,  iv.  S'Ji.  382.  1835.) 

The  same  writer  observes  that,  after  fully  reflecting  upon  the  various 
causes  of  change  in  the  composition  and  structure  of  rocks,  we  may  be 
prepared  to  conjecture  that  gneiss  and  mica-schist  may  be  nothing  more 
than  altered  micaceous  and  argillaceous  sandstones,  and  that  granular 
quartz  may  be  derived  from  siliceous  sandstone,  and  compact  quartz  from  the 
same  materials.  Clay-slate  may  be  altered  shale,  and  shale  appears  to  be 
clay  which  has  been  subjected  to  great  pressure.  Granular  marble  has 
probably  originated  in  the  form  of  ordinary  limestone,  having  in  many 
instances  been  replete  with  shells  and  coral  now  obliterated,  while  calcareous 
sands  and  marls  have  been  changed  into  impure  crystalline  limestones. 

In  AN  Excursion  round  the  Isle  of  Anglesea,  from  Bangor,  an 
object  of  considerable  attraction  is  immediately  presented  in  the  town  of 
Beaumaris,  and  its  concomitants  (which  see).  Bingley,  Pugh,  and  others 
have  made  this  circuit,  finding  no  difficulty,  and  no  extra  attention  requisite, 
except  at  low  water,  when  passing  over  sands,  which  will  sometimes  prove  a 
hindrance.  The  stages  are  as  follow:  —  From  Beaumaris  over  the  Red- 
Wharf  sands  to  Amlwch,  l6  m.,  Holyhead  22  m.;  a  fine  road  all  the 
way;  Aber-Ffraw  12  m.  Inquire  the  state  of  the  tide,  in  order  to  cross 
the  sands  at  Rhos  Colyn.  To  Beaumaris  19  m.  These  stages  allow  ample 
time  to  the  diligent  traveller  to  examine  what  is  interesting  on  the  route. 
See  Beaumaris  ;  Amlwch  ;  Holyhead  ;  Caernarvon  ;  Bangor. 


BALA. 


From  Corwen,  12  miles.  Pennant  ;  Bingley  ; 
Wyndham. 

Llangynnog,  11  miles.  Aikin. 
Pont-y-Glyn,  7miles.  Hutton. 


From  Mallwyd,  23  miles.  J.  Evans. 

Dinas  Mowddwy,  18  miles.  Warner, 
Dolgelly,  17  miles,  Skrine. 


BALA  (the  outlet  of  the  lake)  is  a  clean  and  populous  market- town,  in 
the  hundred  of  Pen  Llyn,  Merionethshire,  consisting  of  one  wide  principal 
street,  the  others  crossing  it  at  right  angles.  The  houses  are  in  general 
very  low.  In  1831  the  population  amounted  to  2359* 

Bala  was  formerly  dependent  on  the  castle  of  Harlech.  Finian  de 
Stanedon,  being  constable  of  that  castle  in  the  time  of  Edward  II.,  this 
place  was  committed  to  his  care.  Edward  III.  rewarded  his  general, 
Walter  de  Mannie,  with  the  fee-farm  of  Bala  and  Harlech ;  and,  further, 
made  him  sheriff  of  the  county  for  life.  (^Dugdale,  Baron,  ii.  149.)  Bala 
is  in  the  parish  of  Llan-y-cil,  Church  of  the  Recess,”  about  1  m.  dis¬ 
tant.  A  chapel  of  ease  was  erected  here  in  1811  :  it  is  a  plain  edifice, 
with  a  low  tower  terminating  in  a  spire.  At  this  place  is  carried  on  a 
great  trade  in  woollen  gloves  and  stockings.  It  is  the  principal  market  in 
North  Wales  for  knit  stockings  and  socks,  and  the  centre  of  the  circuit  in 
which  they  are  made ;  its  boundary  extending  from  Corwen  to  Bettws, 


BALA. 


4<7 


Ysbytty,  LlanrwsL  Penmachno.  The  assizes  are  held  here  and  at  Dolgelly 
alternately.  There  are  two  inns,  the  Bull’s  Head,  and  White  Lion,  both 
of  which  afford  comfortable  accommodations.  Bala  was  the  scene  of  the 
ministerial  labours  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Charles,  A.B.,  the  son  of  a  respect¬ 
able  farmer,  in  the  parish  of  Llanfihangel,  South  Wales,  was  born  October 
14th,  1755.  On  leaving  Oxford,  he  was  engaged  to  a  curacy  in  Somerset¬ 
shire,  which  he  gave  up  in  1783,  and  removed  to  Wales,  after  a  ministry 
of  five  years.  After  Mr.  Charles  returned  to  Wales,  he  was  engaged  suc¬ 
cessively  to  serve  several  churches  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bala  (where  he 
then  resided),  at  each  of  which,  his  evangelical  preaching  giving  great 
offence  to  the  inhabitants,  his  services  were  declined.  Mr.  Charles,  having 
been  so  many  times  deprived  of  the  opportunity  of  exercising  his  ministry, 
felt  no  small  perplexity  of  mind.  His  active  disposition  would  not  allow 
him  to  remain  wholly  unoccupied.  The  ignorance  which  prevailed  among 
the  people  at  Bala  excited  his  sympathy :  he  invited  them  to  his  house  to 
give  them  religious  instruction.  He  was  offered  the  use  of  the  chapel  by 
the  Calvinistic  Methodists,  who  were  then,  and  for  some  time  after,  con¬ 
nected  with  the  established  church.  This  offer  he  accepted,  and  there  he 
instructed  and  catechised  the  numerous  children  who  attended.  In  the 
year  1785  Mr.  Charles  commenced  preaching  among  the  Methodists,  from 
which  period  to  the  time  of  his  death  his  ministerial  labours  were  very 
great ;  the  effects  of  which  are  still  to  be  seen,  and  will  probably  continue 
to  appear  for  ages  to  come.  Shortly  after  Mr.  Charles  left  the  church  he 
began  establishing  circulating  schools ;  they  succeeded  wonderfully,  the 
whole  country  being  filled  with  them.  The  fruits  of  these  were  numerous 
Sunday  schools  throughout  the  principality.  Mr.  Charles  prepared  two 
editions  of  the  Welsh  Bible ;  one  in  12mo,  published  in  1806,  and 
another  in  8vo,  completed  just  before  his  death.  But  his  greatest  effort 
as  an  author  was  a  ‘^Scriptural  Dictionary,”  4  vols.  8vo.  Mr.  Charles  was 
the  principal  instrument  in  originating  the  Bible  Society.  The  exciting  or 
moving  cause  of  this  noble  institution  was  the  great  want  of  Bibles,  espe¬ 
cially  in  North  Wales.  He  died  October  5th,  1814,  in  the  59th  year  of 
his  age. 

There  are  places  of  worship  for  Independents  and  Calvinistic  Methodists, 
with  Sunday  Schools  attached.  A  Grammar  school  founded  by  Dr.  E. 
Meyrick,  in  1712,  clothes  and  ^educates  30  boys  for  the  term  of  four  years. 

Just  before  entering  the  town  on  the  n.  e.  is  an  artificial  mount,  Tom- 
men-y-Bala,  supposed  to  be  of  Roman  origin,  and  placed  here,  with  a  small 
castle,  to  secure  the  pass  towards  the  sea.  From  this  eminence  is  an  exceed¬ 
ingly  grand  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  On  the  n.  w.  the  2  Arenigs, 
beyond  the  lofty  Arrans,  and  in  the  distance  Cader  Idris,  with  its  cloud- 
encircled  summit.  One  mile  n.  w.  of  the  town  is  Rhiwlas,  the  seat  of 
Richard  Watkin  Price,  Esq.,  situated  upon  the  elevated  banks  of  the 
Troweryn,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  country  around.  On  the 
E.  bank  of  the  Dee  is  another  mount,  not  far  distant,  called  Castell  Gronw 
Befyr  0  Benllyn,  “  the  Castle  of  Gronw  the  Fair,  of  Penllyn,”  a  chieftain 
who  lived  in  the  time  of  Maelgwn  Gwynedd.  Bala  Lake,  Llyn  Tegid, 
or  Pimhle-mere,  is  ^  m.  s.  of  the  town.  The  latter  name  is  a  corruption 
from  Pymplwy,  “  the  Five  Parishes,”  adjoining  the  lake, — Llandderfel,  Llan- 
fawr,  Llanycil,  Llanuwchllyn,  and  Llangower.  This  is  the  largest  lake  in 
Wales,  being  about  4  m.  long,  and  in  some  places  near  1  m.  in  breadth. 
At  Bryn-Goleu  its  depth  is  46  yards,  with  3  yards  of  mud.  The  scenery 
around  is  mountainous.  The  overflowings  of  this  water  are  sometimes 
dreadful ;  but  this  only  happens  when  the  winds  rush  from  the  mountain  at 


48 


BALA. 


the  upper  end.  In  stormy  weather_,  when  swelled  by  torrents,  the  water  is 
driven  to  the  height  of  8  or  9  feet,  covering  great  part  of  the  vale  of  Eder- 
nion,  and  almost  threatening  the  town  with  destruction.  In  calm  settled 
weather,  it  has  been  so  smooth  as  to  be  completely  frozen  over.  The  Dee 
rises  from  under  Arran  ben  Llyn,  a  high  mountain  at  the  head  of  the 
lake;  and,  according  to  Giraldus  Cambrensis,  Drayton,  and  others,  flows 
through  this  immense  body  of  water,  without  deigning  to  intermix  its 
waters,  as  the  Rhone  is  fabled  to  pass  through  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  and 
the  classic  Alpheus  through  the  Adriatic.  Hence  it  has  been  asserted  that 
salmon  are  never  found  in  the  lake,  nor  the  gwyniaid  in  the  river.  This 
may  generally  be  the  case ;  but  the  gwyniaid  has  been  known  to  stray  as 
far  as  Llandrillo,  6  m.  down  the  river,  and  salmon  occasionally  found 
trespassing  in  the  lake.  From  the  bottom  or  n.  e.  end,  the  view  to  the  s.  w. 
is  exceedingly  fine ;  a  line  of  rich  cornfields  and  verdant  meadows  bounds 
its  waters  on  the  r.,  and  on  the  1.  the  bridge,  through  which  issues  out  the 
river  Dee.  The  boundaries  of  this  lake  are  very  grand.  A  large  rocky  hill, 
well  clothed  with  wood,  rises  over  it  in  picturesque  beauty.  A  range  of 
crags  thence  leads  the  eye  to  the  lofty  Arrans,  with  their  summits,  Penllyn 
and  Fowddy.  On  the  n.  w.  are  the  cloudy  tops  of  Arenigs  vawr  and 
fach ;  and  in  the  distant  horizon  the  triple  crown  of  the  towering  Cader 
Idris.  Bala  lake  abounds  with  a  variety  of  excellent  fish  ;  viz.  pike,  trout, 
perch,  eels,  and  that  peculiar  to  alpine  districts,  called  gwyniaid,  resem¬ 
bling  whitings  in  flavour  ;  the  salmo  laveretus  of  Linnaeus,  and  the  fera  of 
the  Lake  of  Geneva.  The  fishery  in  the  13th  century  belonged  to  the 
Abbey  of  Basingwerk  :  the  whole  property  is  now  vested  in  Sir  W.  W. 
Wynn.  As  a  particular  favour,  the  fishermen  belonging  to  that  Baronet 
may  be  engaged  occasionally  to  attend  fishing  parties  with  a  boat.  With¬ 
out  such  permission  no  person  is  allowed  the  use  of  nets,  but  angling  is 
freely  granted ;  and  numbers  visit  this  place  entirely  for  the  sake  of  indulg¬ 
ing  in  this  amusement.  An  establishment  for  the  purpose  of  fishing  is 
advantageously  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  tlie  lake  near  the  town,  sheltered 
by  a  hill.  Flourishing  plantations  of  young  trees  have,  during  the  last  30 
years, ’been  formed  at  Cyrty,'^Caerlleoii,  and  Tal-y-Bont,  by  Dr.  Thackeray. 
Several  farms  appear  on  the  same  side  at  intervals,  but  there  is  a  great 
want  of  variety  in  the  scenery,  occasioned  chiefly  by  the  disappearance  of 
the  woods  which  once  adorned  the  banks.  Near  the  exit  of  the  river  Dee, 
from  the  pool  adjoining  the  bridge,  there  are  vestiges  of  a  raised  earth- work, 
which  seem  to  have  been  intersected  by  the  road.  Here  the  Roman  cause¬ 
way  leading  from  Mediolanum,  in  Montgomeryshire,  to  Heriri-Mons,  or 
Tommen-y-Mur,  in  Merionethshire,  traversed  the  valley,  and  continued  its 
course,  either  through  or  very  near  the  present  town  of  Bala,  to  the 
Milltyr-Cerig,  or,  Stony  Mile,’^  and  thence  through  Bwlch-y-buarth,  to 
T  ommen-y-Mur. 

Plants. — Alisma  natans,  grows  at  the  s.  end ;  Fumaria  claviculata,  in  a 
hedge  in  the  lane,  at  the  n.  end ;  Senecio  viscosus,  upon  the  shore ;  Litto- 
rella  lacustris,  upon  the  bank  at  the  s.  extremity  of  the  lake. 

Excursio7is  round  this  water  are  frequently  made.  Mr.  Bingley  took 
a  guide,  and  commenced  his  route  up  the  s.  e.  bank.  Crossing 
the  hxiAge,  Pont-Mwnwgl-y-llyn,’"  says  he,  ‘"and  proceeding  along  the  e.  edge 
of  the  lake,  from  near  the  hamlet  of  Llangowei',  4  m.,  a  pleasing  vale  opens 
on  the  opposite  side,  bounded  by  mountains,  and  closed  in  at  the  end  by  one 
of  the  Arrenigs.  Passing  the  end  of  the  lake  about  J  m.,  and  leaving 
the  road  down  a  narrow  lane  to  Llanuwclillyn  ‘^‘^the  Church  above  the  Lake'’ 
the  vale  of  Twrch  is  entered,  where  Aran  Benllyn  presents  one  of  its 


BALA. 


49 

native  craggy  and  prominent  cliffs,  its  poor  vegetation  hanging  in  a  few 
tufts  from  its  broken  sides.  The  limestone  here  is  supposed  to  be  identical 
with  that  at  Coniston  W ater  Head.  This,  with  the  neighbouring  argil¬ 
laceous  beds,  yields  zoophyta,  orbicula,  leptaena,  and  other  brachiopoda. 
These,  with  the  Plinlimmon  and  Snowdonian  rocks,  constitute  the  upper  or 
Cambrian  slate  system  of  modern  geologists.  The  scene  is  altogether  that 
of  nature  in  her  roughest  attire,  where  rocks,  heath,  moss,  and  a  few 
grasses  seem  almost  the  only  component  parts  of  the  picture.  Crossing  the 
river  Twrch  (  the  burrower)  2^  m.,  my  guide  pointed  out  a  piece  of  land 
of  considerable  extent,  near  Llaniiwchllyn,  which  w^as  nearly  covered  with 
innumerable  masses  of  broken  rocks  which  had  been  carried  there  by  what 
the  W elsh  call  Daeardor,  a  breaking  of  the  earth.  This  is  a  dislodgment 
of  a  vast  quantity  of  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and,  as  appears  to  have  been 
the  case  in  the  present  instance,  sometime  of  a  considerable  tumulus  from 
the  higher  mountains,  which  seems  to  have  been  occasioned  by  the  burst¬ 
ing  of  a  waterspout,  the  vast  contents  of  which  being  lodged  in  the  hollows, 
penetrated  into  the  earth ;  this  loosening  the  whole  mass,  it  was  swept 
down  with  the  torrent,  and  lodged  in  the  vale  below. 

An  extraordinary  accident  happened  in  this  neighbourhood,  on  the  20th 
of  June,  1781,  the  river  Twrch  overflowing  its  banks  in  such  a  dread¬ 
ful  torrent  as  to  sweep  away  every  thing  before  it,  17  houses,  5  bridges, 
&c.  &c.  On  the  summit  of  a  high  and  craggy  rock,  at  a  mile  distance 
from  the  road,  about  1  m.  beyond  Llanuwchllyn,  ~  m.  are  the  remains  of 
an  ancient  British  fort,  called  Castell  Corndochon.  Returning  upon  an 
eminence  on  the  1.,  near  the  head  of  the  pool  Caer  Gai,  ^  m.  was  formerly  a 
fort  belonging  to  Cai  Hir  ap  Cynyr,  or,  as  Spencer  has  called  him,  Timon, 
the  foster  father  of  King  Arthur,  who  was  educated  here.  Pass  Llany- 
cil,  3  m.  more ;  1  m,  distant  from  Bala. 

Mr.  Pugh  and  others  have  commenced  their  circuit  from  Bala  upon  the 
N.  w.  side  of  the  lake.  The  first  object  is  Llanycil.  Upon  a  tablet  in 
the  interior  is  the  following  epitaph  to  the  memory  of  Evan  Lloyd,  M.  A., 
who  resided  at  Fron,  seen  upon  the  side  of  a  hill  between  this  church  and 
Bala:  it  was  written  by  the  celebrated  John  Wilkes,  Esq. 

“  Oh,  pleasing  poet !  friend  for  ever  dear, 

Thy  memory  claims  the  tribute  of  a  tear  ; 

In  thee  were  join’d  whate’er  mankind  admire, 

Keen  wit,  strong  sense,  the  poet’s,  patriot’s  fire, 

Temper’d  with  gentleness  ;  such  gifts  were  thine,  — 

Such  gifts,  with  heartfelt  anguish,  we  resign.” 

Mr.  Lloyd  was  author  of  The  Powers  of  the  Pen,”  1 765  ;  Curate, 
a  Poem,”  1766;  Conversation,  a  Poem,”  1767;  ‘^Epistle  to  David 
Garrick,”  177S  ;  An  Ode  on  opening  the  Exhibition  Room  of  Artists 

A  System  of  Geography,”  1798.  Glan-y-Llyn  is  a  fishing-box 
belonging  to  Sir  Watkin  Williams  Wynn,  Bart.,  who  keeps  upon  this 
water  a  lugger-rigged  boat.  Caer  Gai,  now  a  farm-house,  was  once  a 
splendid  residence,  contiguous  to  the  remains  of  a  Roman  station.  Coins 
of  the  Emperor  Domitian  have  been  found  here.  Mr.  Jtowland  Vaughan,  of 
this  place,  translated  Bp.  Baily’s  ‘‘  Practice  of  Piety,’’  and  other  works  into 
W elsh.  2  m.  hence  is  an  angle  formed  by  the  hills,  where,  upon  a  very 
high  rock,  are  the  ruins  of  Castell  Co7'ndochon,  of  which  no  part  is  entire. 
50  yards  from  the  summit  are  immense  stones :  the  largest  is  called  Carey 
diddos,  “  the  stone  giving  shelter.”  Its  form  is  two  sides  of  a  square,  and 
it  rests  upon  its  angle.  Mr.  Pugh  has  given  a  sketch  of  it  (^Cambria 
Depic,  282.).  Across  the  centre  it  measures  I6  feet,  and  its  thickness  is 

E 


50 


BALA. 


3  feet.  Upon  the  river^  w.  of  the  Castell,  is  a  waterfall,  called  Rhaiadyr-y- 
Mowy,  Cross  some  fine  meadows  to  LlangoweVy  which  stands  pleasantly 
on  the  N.  E.  banks  of  the  lake.  .A  little  further  on  the  1.,  in  a  field  belong¬ 
ing  to  Pant-yr-Onnen,  or  Ash- vale  farm,”  is  a  large  stone,  placed  verti¬ 
cally  in  the  ground,  and  is  the  remaining  supporter  of  a  cromlech.  Fach- 
ddeilog  is  a  neat  summer-box,  once  the  property  of  Sir  Richard  Colt  Hoare 
and  Sir  John  Leicester.  Quitting  this  house  many  striking  objects  occur 
at  every  turning.  This  would  prove  a  pleasing  equestrian  excursion,  reach¬ 
ing  to  Llanuwchllyn,  where  may  be  examined  the  devastation  at  Pont-y- 
Pandu,  and  where  may  be  had  a  guide  up  Arran  BenllyUy  one  of  the 
highest  of  the  Welsh  mountains. 

On  the  Dolgelly  road,  by  the  side  of  the  lake,  occurs  Sir  W.  W. 
Wynn’s  beautiful  cottage,  built  upon  an  eminence  near  the  extremity  of 
the  lake.  Tn  this  walk  may  be  observed  the  whole  contour  of  the  lake 
and  of  its  banks.  Llanycil,  1  m.  One  m.  further  pass  Cefn  Bodig,  to 
the  r.  with  Bryn-y-moel,  and  Crigllwydion,  to  Pont  la  far,  3  m.  from 
Bala.  On  the  1.  Glan-y-Uyn.  On  the  r.  Caergai,  1  m.  Near  Llanuwchllyn 
cross  the  Llew,  which  falls  into  the  Du  at  a  short  distance,  1  m.  Lwrnudon, 
2m.  Arran  Benllyn,  on  the  1.  Drws-y-Nant  uchaf.  3  m.  Yronwith  and 
Drws-y-Nant  isaf,  with  the  Mawddach  on  the  1.  1  m.  Rhyd-y-maen 
and  Hengwrt  uchaf,  Hugh  Jones,  Esq.  2  m.  On  the  1.  Maes-y-camhren. 
Pontnewydd,  2  m.  Dolygamedd  to  the  1.  One  mile  further  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream  is  Dolysereu,  J.  Edwards,  Esq.  One  mile  further 
approaching  to  Dolgelly,  on  the  1.  are  the  residences  Gartmaelen,  and 
Llwyn, 

On  the  road  to  Llanrhaiadyb,  about  1-|  m.  from  Bala,  is  the  bridge 
called  Pont  Cynwyd,  below  which  the  turbulent  little  stream  is  crowded 
with  huge  masses  of  rock,  deeply  excavated  into  circular  hollows,  by  the 
furious  eddying  of  the  water  which  rages  from  above.  About  1  m.  beyond, 
stands  Rhiwedog  (the  abrupt  ascent),  an  ancient  family  seat,  near  which, 
in  a  vale,  where  there  is  stagnant  water  in  winter,  called  Pwl-y-Gelanedd 
(the  pool  of  the  slain),  was  fought  a  most  severe  battle  between  the  Britons 
and  Saxons,  in  which  the  aged  Llywarch  lost  his  only  surviving  son. 
From  the  side  of  a  steep,  just  after  entering  the  moors,  appears  a  distant 
view  of  the  vale  of  Edeirneon.  The  road  then  leads  over  Trum-y-Sarn 
(the  causeway  of  the  ridge).  At  a  little  distance  on  the  r.  runs  one  of  the 
immense  ridges  extending  15  or  l6  m.  in  length,  called  the  Berwyn 
Mountains.  Two  of  the  most  elevated  points  are  Cader  Ferwyn  and  Cader 
Forwyn.  Soon  afterwards,  occurs  a  noted  bwlch  or  pass,  which  divides  the 
counties  of  Merioneth  and  Montgomery,  called  Milltir  Gerig  (the  stony 
mile),  3  m.  Hence  is  a  prospect  into  the  romantic  vale  of  Llangynog, 
3^  m.  completely  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  mountains.  The  bottom  is 
interspersed  with  small  farm  houses,  Llanrhaiadyr,  4^  m. 

On  the  road  to  Dinas-y-Mowddwy,  on  the  n.m^  side  of  the  lake,  the  vil¬ 
lages  of  Llanycil  and  Llanuwchllyn,  4  m.,  occur,  beyond  which  the  mountains 
assume  a  bold  style.  Here  commences  the  craggy  ascent  of  Aran-hen~Llyn, 
which  continues  for  nearly  two  m. :  beyond  is  the  rough  glen,  through 
which  the  boisterous  Twrch  rushes  in  continued  cascades.  The  cottages 
in  this  district  are  most  rudely  formed,  and  their  outward  appearance  cor¬ 
responds  to  the  wretchedness  within.  Continuing  his  journey  up  the 
stream,  the  traveller  at  length  arrives  at  the  entrance  of  the  military  pass  of 
Bwlch-y-groes,  3  m.  (the  pass  of  the  cross),  so  called  from  a  crucifix  which  was 
anciently  erected  at  the  summit  of  this  ascent.  Before  entering  the  pass, 
turn  aside  a  little  on  the  r.  to  admire  a  very  striking  cascade  of  the  Twrch. 
About  J  m.  above  the  fall,  is  a  craggy  perpendicular  cliff,  bending  over  the 


BALA. 


51 


water^  whence,  no  doubt,  these  surprising  ruins  were  detached  by  the  force 
of  frost,  or  the  irresistible  rushing  of  the  torrent,  swelled  unusually  by 
heavy  rain.  Returning  into  the  road  from  this  romantic  spot,  we  ascend 
the  steep  mountain  of  Bwlch-y-groes,  by  a  rugged  road  of  loose  slates. 
Gain  the  summit,  and  descend  by  a  noble  broad  terrace-road,  down  the 
opposite  side  of  the  mountain,  crossing  several  small  rivulets  which, 
uniting,  form  the  source  of  the  river  Dovey,  a  large  stream  which  gives  its 
name  to  the  valley.  (This  river  rises  near  Craig-Llyn-Dyfi,  in  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood  of  Bala,  shapes  its  course  by  the  two  towns  of  Dinas  Mowddwy 
and  Machynlleth,  and  at  the  distance  of  10  m.  falls  into  the  mouth  of 
Cardigan  bay.)  Llan-y ^mowddwy ,  3  m.  Dinas  Mowddwy,  5  m.  Passing 
on  our  r.  is  a  most  beautiful  cascade  formed  by  the  river  Cowarch,  which 
hastens  to  mingle  its  waters  with  the  Dovey.  Dinas  Mowddwy,  Mallwyd, 
^  m. 

The  distances  on  the  great  road  from  Bala  to  Dinas- Mowddwy,  are  as 
follow.  Pass  Tynytioll  to  Llangower,  3]^m.  Pass  Pontregwyn,  and  Llany- 
wechlyn,  to  Afonfachen,  2  m.  7  ft.  Pass  Rhydyhont,  Tynant-brook,  Proriy 
Bwlch-y-groes,  to  Tan-y-hwlch,  S^m.  (Near  this  place  rises  Afon  Pinion  ; 
on  its  approach  to  Bala  Lake  it  is  called  the  Twrch  river,  which  runs  on 
the  r.  all  the  way  from  the  lake.)  Begin  to  take  the  infant  Dovey  on  the  1., 
passing  Castleford  to  Tyndol,  3  m.  Llan-y- Mowddwy,  1  m. ;  Tinfreeth  turn¬ 
pike,  7  f.  Tynant,  1  m.  1  f. ;  Llantnewd,  1  m.  (Cross  the  Cowarch  river.) 
Dinas-Mowddwy,  1  m. 

On  the  road  to  Corwen  take  a  retrospective  view  of  the  peaks  of  Cader 
Idris,  distant  eighteen  miles,  rising  behind  a  succession  of  mountains. 
Following  the  road  with  the  Dee  upon  the  r.,  pursue  a  charming  vale  amid 
hedgerows,  corn,  grass,  and  trees  of  luxuriant  growth :  neat  houses, 
farms,  and  cottages  enliven  the  scene.  Three  miles  from  Bala,  turn  to 
the  r.,  and  cross  the  Dee  by  a  handsome  stone  bridge.  Continuing  with 
the  river  on  the  1.,  the  same  kind  of  scenery  continues  to  the  I.  In  this 
route  pass  through  the  pleasing  villages  of  Llanfawr  and  Llandrillo ; 
near  the  latter  stands  Maesmawr,  the  residence  of  Bell  Lloyd,  Esq. 
Passing  through  Llangar,  arrive  at  Corwen. 

The  church  at  Llanfawr,  1  m.  is  placed  upon  an  acclivity,  whence  are 
seen  Bala  Lake,  Arran  Benllyn,  with  the  rocks  beyond  Pantgwin  and 
Cader  Idris.  Advancing  to  more  elevated  grounds,  the  scenery  improves. 
A  few  yards  above  the  church,  is  a  tumulus.  By  the  side  of  the  river, 
the  pictures  are  numerous  and  luxuriant.  Bodweni,  the  residence  of 
Mr.  Evans,  is  the  happiest  situation  that  can  be  conceived.  The  heights 
above  Llanderfel,  3  m.  afford  extraordinary  prospects.  The  neat  church 
contains  a  small  dark  room  in  which  is  a  rude  wooden  figure,  somewhat 
resembling  a  lion.  St.  Dorfel  Gadarn,  a  son  of  Hywel  ap  Emyr  Llydaw, 
was  a  saint  of  the  sixth  century.  A  great  wooden  image  of  him  was  taken 
hence  to  London,  and  burnt  in  1538,  in  the  fire  which  consumed  Friar 
Forest  to  ashes.  (Hall's  Chron.  ccxxxiii.)  In  the  yard  is  an  inscription 
to  the  memory  of  Gayner  Hughes,  who  died  in  1786,  aged  35.  She  lived 
eight  years  without  any  other  sustenance  than  a  spoonful  of  water  per  day. 
She  kept  her  bed  during  this  time.  On  the  s.  side  of  the  river  is  Crogen,  or 
the  Gill,  the  seat  of  Bell  Lloyd,  Esq.  surrounded  by  the  most  striking 
scenery.  Cross  a  handsome  bridge,  and  observe  the  fine  situation  of  Tyyi-y^ 
Wern  at  some  distance.  From  the  elevated  grounds  above  Llandrillo,  3-^  m., 
we  looked  down  upon  the  rich  and  beautiful  vale  of  Edeirnion,  which  con¬ 
tinues  its  splendour  to  Llangar,  distant  4  or  5  m.  Pass  on  the  1.  the  old 
nouse  of  Hendwr,  1  m.  the  occasional  residence  of - Passingham,  Esq. 

E  2 


52 


BANGOR. 


Cynwyd,  2  m.  seated  upon  the  tributary  Trwstiog,  is  a  pretty  little  hamlet. 
Half  a  mile  up  the  dingle  is  a  waterfall  of  40  or  50  ft.  It  is  situated  at 
the  top  of  an  amphitheatric  glen.  An  old  mill  is  of  much  consequence  to 
a  painter.  We  may  return  to  Cynwyd,  and  proceed  upon  the  public  road_, 
leaving  Gwerdas,  a  good  house^  on  the  1.  Llangar  churchyard,  1  m« 
contains  a  vast  assemblage  of  elegant  gravestones.  Its  site,  upon  the 
verge  of  a  hill,  at  the  junction  of  the  Alwen  with  the  Dee,  befits  the 
solemnity  of  the  place.  Corwen,  1  m. 

Llanfawr  (the  great  village).  This  is  the  supposed  place  of  interment 
of  Llywarch  Hen,  the  Cambrian  prince,  a  celebrated  British  bard  and 
warrior,  who  flourished  in  the  seventh  century  ;  and  after  a  life  of  vicis¬ 
situdes  and  misfortunes,  died  about  the  year  670,  at  the  great  age  of 
150  years.  Pahell  Llywarch  Hen,  lies  not  far  distant  from  this  place. 
1^  m.  Bala. 

Angling  stations.  —  Llangower,  S  m.  LlanuwchUyyi,  5  m. ;  fine  fishing, 
amidst  the  most  sublime  scenery.  Havodfadog,  4  m. ;  good  trout.  Llanycil, 
a  good  sporting  residence.  Maes-yr-Futten,  4  m. ,  fine  trout,  Llyn  Tre- 
weryn,  9  na.  Llyn-Conglog,  11m. 

A  fine  dish  of  trout  was  caught  in  Bala  Lake  on  New  Years’  day,  by  a 
person  resident  in  Bala,  which  is  accounted  a  very  extraordinary  occur¬ 
rence,  as  trout  seldom  take  the  fly  in  that  noble  piece  of  water  until  May. 


To  Llangynog,  11  miles.  Bingley  ;  Wyndham. 
Mallwydd,  17  miles.  Aikin. 

Festiniog,  18  miles.  Hutton. 

?  Dinas. Mowddwy,  18m.  J. Evans;  Pennant. 
Corwen,  12  miles.  Skrine.  Pugh, 

Ruthin,  21  miles.  Warner. 


To  Dolgelly,  18  miles. 
Llanrhayader,  15  miles. 
Aberystwith,  47  miles. 
Shrewsbury,  42  miles. 
Llanfyllin,  18  miles. 


BANGOR. 


From  Plas  Newydd,  5  miles,  Wyndham.  e.n.e. 
Aber,  4^  miles.  Bingley.  N.E. 

Amlwch,  23  miles.  Aikin.  s.s.E. 

Aber,  Smiles.  Hutton;  Skrine.  w.s.w. 
Caernarvon,  9  miles.  Evans  ;  Warner ; 
Gilpin.  N.E. 

Conway,  15  miles.  Warner’s  2d  walk, 
w.s.w. 


From  Gwyndy,  16  miles.  Pennant,  e.s.e. 

Capel  Curig,  14  miles,  n.w. 

Holyhead,  by  way  of  Aberfraw  and  New- 
borough.  Pugh. 

Second  Visit  to  Beaumaris,  after  his  Tour 
round  Anglesea,  miles.  Pugh. 


BANGOR,  (from  Ban  chor,  the  high  choir,)  in  Caernarvonshire,  is  a 
bishop’s  see.  Though  now  very  inconsiderable,  it  appears  to  have  been,  in 
ancient  times,  so  large  as  to  be  called  Bangor  fawr  (the  great  Bangor),  pro¬ 
bably  to  distinguish  it  from  Bangor-Iscoed,  in  Flintshire.  This  city 
appears  to  be  very  ancient.  Leland  says  that  Condage,  a  British  prince, 
erected  here  a  temple,  and  dedicated  it  to  Minerva.  Though  no  notice  of 
Bangor  appears  in  the  itineraries,  yet  a  stone  three  feet  three  inches  long, 
was  discovered  at  Tycoch,  2  m.  distant. 

N— V  M.N.C— 

IMP.  CAESAR— M. 

AVREL— ANTONINUS 
PIUS  P  IX— A UC— ARAB. 


The  historian  Cressy  says,  that  Malgo  Conan  built  a  city ;  which, 
for  the  beauty  of  its  situation,  he  called  Bancor.”  It  is  seated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Menai,  near  its  opening  to  the  Lacan  sands,  in  a  nar¬ 
row  valley,  between  two  low  ridges  of  slate  rock,  opening  to  the  s.  to¬ 
wards  Snowdon,  and  terminating  northwards  about  ^  m.  from  the  cathedral 
into  the  beautiful  bay  of  Beaumaris  ;  the  low  towers  of  its  castle  are 
visible  from  the  beach.  Sir  R.  B.  W.  Bulkeley’s  mansion  at  Baron  Hill, 
appearing  behind.  At  a  distance.  Puffin’s  Island,  and  the  promontory 
of  Ormeshead,  abounding  in  copper  ore,  are  seen  to  guard  the  entrance 
of  the  harbour ;  the  vast  Penmaenmawr,  and  a  line  of  villages,  with 


BANGOR. 


53 


cultivated  fields,  lie  stretched  along  the  shore.  From  the  churchyard 
is  an  extensive  and  charming  prospect  of  part  of  Anglesea,  with  the  town 
and  bay  of  Beaumaris.  On  a  rocky  eminence,  about  m.  e.  of  Bangor, 
formerly  stood  a  Castle,  built  by  Hugh  Lupus,  Earl  of  Chester,  sometime 
during  the  reign  of  William  II.  The  date  of  its  demolition  is  unknown. 
The  site  is  still  visible  on  a  precipitous  hill  about  -i  m.  e.  of  the  city.  There 
is  an  excavation,  surrounded  by  a  mound,  in  which  is  a  great  quantity  of 
stone.  Two  m.  from  the  site  of  the  castle  is  a  moss-covered  mill  stationed 
in  Perfeddgoed  Wood,  the  scenery  around  which  has  been  frequently  ad¬ 
mired.  The  Cathedral  is  a  low  plain  building,  dedicated  to  St.  Deiniol  to 
whom  it  owed  its  origin,  about  the  year  525,  and  he  was  elected  the  first 
bishop  in  550.  Deiniol  was  son  of  Dunawd  Fyr,  whom  he  assisted  in  the 
establishment  of  a  monastery  here.  Soon  after  it  was  raised  by  Maelgwyn 
Gwynedd  to  the  rank  of  an  episcopal  see,  of  which  Deiniol  was  the  first 
bishop  ;  according  to  Usher  before  the  close  of  522.  This  Maelgwyn  was 
abbot  of  Bangor  Iscoed,  under  the  auspices  of  Maelgwyn  Gwynedd,  king 
of  Wales,  founder  of  Penmon,  patron  of  Taliesin,  and  the  most  liberal 
prince  of  his  time.  This  Cathedral  was  destroyed  by  an  English  army  in 
1071,  and  afterwards  rebuilt  by  King  John  in  1211.  It  sustained  consider¬ 
able  injury,  with  the  cathedral  of  St.  Asaph,  about  1247,  in  the  wars  be¬ 
twixt  Henry  III.  and  the  Welsh.  In  1402  it  was  burnt  down  during  the 
ravages  of  Owain  Glyndwr ;  and  remained  in  ruins  upwards  of  QO  years, 
when  the  choir  was  rebuilt  by  Bishop  Henry  Dermis,  or  Denni,  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  VIE,  but  the  tower  and  nave  were,  according  to  an  inscrip¬ 
tion  over  the  w.  door,  built  at  the  expense  of  Bishop  Skeffington  in  1532. 
The  building  is  composed  of  a  choir,  nave,  transept,  2  aisles,  and  a  qua¬ 
drangular  tower.  The  choir,  transept,  and  tower,  have  an  embattled  para¬ 
pet,  and  the  latter  is  surmounted  by  a  crocketted  pinnacle  at  each  angle. 
The  structure  has  a  neat  regular  appearance,  but  it  has  been  marred  by  the 
addition  of  rooms  upon  the  n.  side,  for  the  purposes  of  a  consistorial  court, 
chapter-house,  and  library.  Its  length,  from  e.  to  w.  is  214  feet;  breadth 
of  the  body  and  side  aisles,  60  feet.  There  is  some  painted  glass,  among 
which  appear  the  arms  of  the  Gruffydds  of  Penrhyn,  and  Dean  Kyfhn, 
who  founded  a  chantry  in  the  s.  cross  aisle.  The  nave  is  separated  from  the 
aisles  by  6  flat-pointed  arches,  resting  upon  octangular  fluted  columns, 
having  plain  annular  capitals,  and  broad  square  plinths.  GryfRdds  ap 
Cynan  is  said  to  have  been  interred  here,  but  no  vestige  of  the  tomb  re¬ 
mains.  Beneath  an  arch  in  the  s.  end  of  the  transept  upon  a  sarcophagus, 
ornamented  with  a  cross  fleury,  is  the  effigy  in  stone  of  Owain  Gwynedd, 
king  of  N.  Wales,  who  died  anno  11 69.  Two  half-length  effigies,  with  an 
inscription  in  Latin,  commemorating  Bishops  Vaughan,  and  Rowlands. 
These  busts  were  decapitated  by  the  fanatics  during  the  rebellion.  The 
heart  of  Bishop  Skeffington  is  deposited  here ;  his  body  was  interred  at 
Beaulieu,  in  1530,  of  which  monastery  he  had  been  abbot.  The  choir  was 
fitted  up  in  a  style  of  neat  and  simple  elegance,  by  the  late  prelate  Dr. 
Warren,  and  ornamented  with  a  good  organ,  the  gift  of  Dr.  Thomas  Lloyd, 
1779-  A  Diocesan  Church  Building  Society  is  organising,  under  the  pre¬ 
sidency  of  the  Right  Rev.  Prelate.  Upon  the  s,  side  of  the  choir  is  a 
large  handsome  monument  of  white  marble,  surmounted  by  an  urn,  to  the 
memory  of  Bishop  Morgan,  and  his  daughter,  1673.  1682.  A  stone,  with 
an  inscription,  bears  the  name  of  Wm.  Wynne,  anno  1704,  aged  34,  who 
edited  Caradoc  Llancarfen’s  History  of  Wales.  In  the  Library  is  a  curious 
MS.,  called  Liber  Pontificalis  Domini.  Anniani  Bangor  Episcopi.”  This 
pontifical  is  a  moderate  sized  folio.  It  contains  a  missal,  including,  besides 


E  3 


54 


BANGOR. 


the  rubric,  32  offices,  with  anthems,  set  to  music,  drawn  up  by  Bishop 
Anian,  and  consented  to  by  the  clergy  at  a  synod  held  in  1291*  The 
chapter  consits  of  12  dignitaries;  1,  the  dean;  2,  the  bishop,  as  arch¬ 
bishop  of  Bangor  ;  3,  the  bishop,  as  archdeacon  of  Anglesea  ;  4,  the  arch¬ 
deacon  of  Merioneth  ;  5,  the  prebendary  of  Llanfair  ;  6,  the  prebendary 
of  Penmynydd  ;  7,  the  treasurer;  8,  the  chancellor;  9?  the  precentor; 
10,  canonicus  primus  ;  11,  canonicus  secundus  ;  12,  canonicus  tertius.  The 
last  five  are  unendowed.  There  are  besides,  2  vicars  choral ;  4  lay  singing 
men  ;  4  choristers;  and  10  children,  who  wear  surplices,  and  assist  in  chant¬ 
ing.  The  arches  of  the  nave  are  very  slightly  pointed,,  without  mouldings 
or  any  kind  of  decorations,  and  spring  from  octangular  columns  of  great 
size.  The  arches  leading  into  the  transepts  and  the  choir  are  more  pointed 
and  elegant. 

The  situation  of  the  Cathedral  is  remarkable,  being  enclosed  upon  the  s. 
by  a  steep  mountain,  and  upon  the  n.  by  rising  ground,  so  as  wholly  to  dis¬ 
appear  on  quitting  the  place.  Upon  one  side  is  an  avenue  of  trees,  forming 
a  pleasant  promenade.  The  Bishop  s  Palace  is  situated  upon  low  ground 
below  the  cathedral.  It  was  almost  entirely  rebuilt  by  Bishop  Skeffington, 
who  died  in  the  year  1533  ;  was  improved  by  the  late  Right  Rev.  John 
W arren,  and  considerable  additions  were  made  by  his  successor  doctor 
Majendie.  Mr.  Warner  and  his  companion  spoke  in  raptures  of  this 
place.  The  beauty,  retirement,  and  repose  of  the  whole  pleased  them 
exceedingly.  The  latter  observed,  that,  if  he  were  bishop  of  Bangor, 
the  only  translation  he  should  covet  would  be  thence  to  heaven.’^  The 
vicinity  of  Bangor  is  well  cultivated,  and  some  elegant  villas  are  scattered 
round  it.  The  Palace  is  immediately  below  the  cathedral.  Here  was 
anciently  a  parish  church,  built  in  975  by  king  Edgar,  situated  about  400 
yards  n.  e.  of  the  cathedral,  and  called  Llanfair  garth  Branail.  Bishop 
Skeffington,  in  the  time  of  Henry  VII.  took  it  down,  and  repaired  the 
present  church  with  the  materials.  There  are  morning  and  evening  ser¬ 
mons  in  the  English  church,  and  the  same  in  the  Welsh  church.  These, 
in  addition  to  that  of  the  chapel  of  ease,  make  five  entire  services,  in¬ 
cluding  a  sermon  at  each  for  the  parish.  This  arrangement  reflects  great 
credit  on  the'clergy  of  Bangor.  The  safety  of  the  church  of  England 
depends  much  more  upon  the  zealous  labours  of  her  ministers  than  her 
revenues  ;  the  latter  may  procure  the  comforts  of  life,  but  the  former  alone 
secure  the  affections  of  the  people,  and  these  constitute  the  real  bulwarks 
of  the  establishment.  Tudor  ap  Gronwy,  of  Penmynydd,  and  Tre’r  castell 
in  Anglesea,  founded  here,  upon  the  sea-shore,  a  house  of  Black  Friars, 
I29.9»  and  was  himself  there  interred  in  1311.  Upon  the  site  of  this 
friary,  Jeffery  Glynn,  LL.D.,  afterwards  founded  a  free-school,  for  the  edu¬ 
cation  of  “poor  men’s  children,”  as  is  expressed  by  his  will,  dated  July  8. 
1557;  it  was  long  in  high  repute  as  a  training  seminary  for  Oxford,  and 
Trinity  College,  Dublin.  A  handsome  school-house  has  been  erected,  near 
the  E.  end  of  the  churchyard  ;  the  income  amounts  to  233/.  13^.  4c/.  per 
annum. 

An  Hospital,  or  Almshouse,  was  established  by  Henry  Rowland,  bishop  of 
this  see  in  l6l6.  A  Public  Dispensa7'y  was  instituted  in  1809,  on  the  day 
when  King  George  III.  attained  his  50th  year.  The  building  is  a  small 
neat  structure,  upon  the  side  of  the  turnpike  road.  At  this  place  the  poor 
have  advice  and  medicine  gratis.  Not  far  from  the  town  is  the  Caernar¬ 
vonshire  and  Anglesea  Dispensary,  instituted  in  1809,  iri  commemoration 
of  the  50th  anniversary  of  the  accession  of  George  III.  The  whole  ex¬ 
pense  of  this  humane  establishment  is  defrayed  by  the  neighbouring  gentry. 
Extensive  premises  have  been  recently  opened  as  a  Market-place,  in  Dean- 


BANGOR. 


55 


street^  well  adapted  for  a  Corn-njarket ;  they  contain  warehouse  room^  afford¬ 
ing  great  advantage  to  farmers.  A  Coast-railway  is  in  contemplation  from 
Chester  to  Holyhead,  embracing  the  districts  of  Flint,  Holywell,  Abergele, 
Ormeshead,  Conway,  Bangor,  &c.  A  company  of  English  capitalists  is 
willing  to  undertake  the  line,  and  a  survey  for  an  outer  harbour  is  now 
making  by  direction  of  the  Admiralty.  In  this  parish  are  also  S  national 
schools,  and  one  for  infants.  From  the  beach  at  Bangor  the  low  towers  of 
the  castle  of  Beaumaris  are  distinctly  visible.  This  city  affords  several 
inns,  as  the  Eagles,  George  and  Dragon,  Crown  and  Anchor,  &c.  In  1801, 
the  population  of  Bangor  amounted  to  1770  inhabitants;  in  1831,  to 
4,751,  a  proof  of  its  rising  importance. 

Two  m.  from  Bangor  is  Aher-Cegid,  a  small  creek,  through  which  the 
Ogwyn  is  emptied  into  the  Menai ;  on  the  shore  a  new  port,  formed  at  the 
expense  of  Lord  Penrhyn,  and  called  after  his  name,  is  the  grand  deposi¬ 
tory  of  the  slates,  which  are  brought  from  Lord  Penrhyn’s  quarries  at 
Dolowen  near  Llyn  Merig,  in  the  mountains  of  Ogwyn, 

Several  inns  here  afford  the  best  accommodations,  post-chaises  and  other 
conveyances.  The  Penrhyn  Arms  is  on  so  large  a  scale  as  to  make  up  100 
beds  at  one  time.  Having  become  a  fashionable  bathing-place,  from  the 
good  roads  and  natural  curiosities  in  the  vicinity,  the  number  of  visitors  in 
the  summer  season  is  now  very  great.  A  traveller  may  spend  a  month  at 
this  place,  each  day  of  which  will  present  an  interesting  object  of  pursuit. 
In  summer  a  steam  packet  plies  daily  from  Bangor  to  Liverpool,  and  in 
winter  every  week.  The  London,  Chester,  and  Liverpool  mails  pass  every 
day.  Two  coaches  run  daily  to  London,  one  to  Chester  and  Liverpool,  two 
to  Caernarvon,  and  mail  to  Pwllheli. 

Plants  in  this  vicinity:  —  Aspidium  aculeatum,  A.Thelypteris,  Asplenium 
marianus. 

From  Bangor  Mr.  Pennant  made  an  Excursion,  which  terminated  at 
Aber.  Crossing  the  wooden  bridge  over  the  furious  torrent  Ogwyn,  which, 
a  little  lower,  discharges  itself  into  the  sea  at  Aber,  he  quitted  the  great 
road  to  visit  Carnedd  Llewelyn  and  Carnedd  Dafydd.  The  first  is  consi¬ 
dered  the  second  in  Wales  as  to  altitude.  The  altitude  of  Snowdon  above 
the  level  of  the  sea  is  3568  feet ;  that  of  Carnedd  Llywelyn,  3520  feet, 
upon  which  grows  the  Ajuga  Alpina ;  upon  the  summit  of  this  mountain, 
it  is  supposed  that  Llywelyn  ap  lorwerth  was  encamped,  at  that  desperate 
crisis  when  King  John,  with  a  great  army,  was  in  the  plains  below,  and 
Bangor  blazing,  and  whence  he  sent  his  princess  (Joan)  to  her  father,  to 
make  peace.  (J2.  LloydC)  From  the  summits  of  Carneddau  Dafydd  and 
Llewelyn  may  be  seen  a  long  chain  of  mountains,  stretching  from  the  n.  to 
the  s.,  from  Penmaenmawr  to  Cader  Idris,  Snowdon  rising  in  the  centre, 
his  head  towering  into  the  clouds.  On  Carnedd  Dafydd  is  found  Lycopo¬ 
dium  Alpinum.  Cwm  Cowlwyd  lies  deeply  immured  and  encompassed  by 
stupendous  cliffs  and  craggy  rocks,  upon  the  e.  side  of  Carnedd  Llywelyn, 
in  the  parish  of  Llanrhochwyn,  being  the  farm  forming  part  of  Cowlwyd, 
probably  from  Caw,  a  man’s  name,  and  Iwyd,  meaning  grey  or  ancient. 
This  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  solitary  and  romantic  retreats  that  can  be 
imagined.  The  noble  mountain  of  Carnedd  Llywelyn  was  measured  by 
Sir  Joseph  Banks,  from  high  water  mark  and  found  to  be  3330  feet  in 
height.  Upon  the  summit  is  a  large  heap  of  loose  stones,  which  may  be 
supposed  to  have  been  placed  here  by  order  of  some  chieftain  of  the  name 
of  Llywelyn,  but  who  he  was  is  uncertain.  In  the  vicinity  of  Penrhyn,  upon 
the  stream  of  the  Ogwen,  is  a  curious  mill  for  the  purpose  of  grinding 
chert,  quartz,  and  flints,  for  the  use  of  the  porcelain  and  delph-ware  potte- 

E  4 


56 


BANGOR. 


ries.  The  chert  and  quartz  are  obtained  from  the  base  of  Carnedd  Llyw- 
elyn,  in  the  parish  of  Llan  Llechid ;  and  the  flints  are  brought;,  as  ballast;, 
in  the  ships  which  take  slates  to  Ireland.  An  ore  of  Manganese  is  also 
here  prepared  for  bleaching;,  and  an  ore  of  zinc,  as  a  substitute  for  white 
lead.  Upon  the  n.  side  of  this  mountain  is  attached  a  peaked  hill  called 
Yr  Elen  or  Elain,  i.  e.  a  young  fawn.  In  the  bosom  of  this  Elen,  close  to 
the  pool  at  the  head  of  the  Caseg  River,  there  is  a  vast  body  of  sulphur. 
The  mountain  of  Carnedd  Dafydd  lies  at  a  short  distance  s.  from  Carnedd 
Llewelyn,  and  is  thought  to  be  nearly  as  high.  There  is  a  heap  of  stones 
upon  the  summit,  apparently  the  ruins  of  a  gwylfa,  i.  e.  a  watch-place,  made 
choice  of  probably  by  some  chieftain  named  David,  but  which  of  the 
Davids  cannot  be  ascertained.  This  hill  commands  an  extensive  prospect 
into  the  vales.  On  the  s.  e.  side  of  Carnedd  Llywelyn  is  the  lake  Ffynnon 
Ligwy,  or  the  fountain  of  the  Gwy,  containing  plenty  of  trout.  This  re¬ 
servoir  and  not  what  is  called  Llyn  Conwy,  is  considered  by  many  as  the 
source  of  the  Conwy  river.  Y  Benglog,  i.  e.  the  skull,  may  be  so  named 
from  being  the  head  or  extremity  of  the  range  of  hills  to  Conwy.  Tradi¬ 
tion  says  it  was  formerly  called  Hysfa,  a  word  used  and  understood  only  in 
the  mountains,  meaning  a  green  plat  fit  for  pasture.  It  appears  almost 
incredible  that  there  was  once  a  horse  road  to  the  summit,  yet  some  parts 
are  still  visible,  beginning  at  Ty-Gwyn,  in  Nant  Frangon,  which  ascends 
gradually  to  a  considerable  height.  Veins  of  spar,  intermixed  in  some 
places  with  copper  ore,  may  be  seen  in  these  rocks.  (  Williams’s  ObsS)  The 
Menai,  Anglesea,  and  the  river  Conwy  afford  in  this  route  distinct  and  fine 
objects.  The  home  views  consist  of  dreary  bottoms  or  moory  hills,  with 
no  waters  of  any  consequence,  except  Llyn  Llyphaint.  Carnedd  Dafydd 
is  connected  to  Carnedd  Llywelyn,  by  a  semilunar  isthmus,  which,  on  the 
side  over  Cwm  Penllafar,  is  called  Ysgollion  duon,  forming  the  most  horrid 
precipice  that  thought  can  conceive.  You  may  descend  through  Cwm 
Penllafar,  and  drop  into  Nant  Frangon,  by  way  of  Coed  mawr. 

Excursions  foom  Bangor  are  frequently  made  to  Lord  Penrhyn’s  Slate 
Quarries,  by  way  of  Nant  Frangon  ;  waterfalls  of  Benglog;  Llyn 
Ogvven  ;  Llyn  Idwel,  in  the  whole  28  m.  The  greatest  part  may  be  per¬ 
formed  in  carriages  or  on  horseback.  But  these  curiosities  are  generally 
visited  on  the  way  to  Capel  Curig,  which  see. 

The  road  to  Ab^b  lies  through  a  highly  cultivated  country.  The  Menai 
begins  to  expand  itself  from  the  harbours  of  Beaumaris  and  Conwy,  into 
the  Irish  Sea,  beyond  the  jetting  promontories  of  the  great  and  little  Ormes- 
head.  The'^lofty  Ogwyn  is  seen  stretching  e.  The  sullen  Penmaenmawr 
is  in  front ;  and  variety  of  shipping  bound  to  and  from  Liverpool  may  be 
seen  in  the  distant  offing. 

Immediately  on  quitting  Bangor  pass  Pood  Penodiyn^  formerly  called 
Aher  Cegyn,  whence  the  slates  from  Lord  Penrhyn’s  quarry  in  Nant 
Frangon,  are  exported.  Near  this  port  is  Lime-go'ove,  the  residence  of 
Mr.  Wyatt.  An  elegant  gateway  leads  into  the  grounds  of  Castel 
Penrhyn. 

To  Capel  Curig.  A  few  hundred  yards  from  Bangor  is  an  elegant  inn, 
bearing  the  insignia  of  Lord  Penrhyn.  The  elegant  reading-room  was 
built  at  the  expense  of  Lady  Penrhyn,  and  presented  to  the  institution  of 
a  permanent  library.  A  richer  prospect  than  this  spot  affords  can  scarcely 
be  conceived.  On  the  s.  e.  see  the  entrance  into  Nant  Frangon ;  to  the  b. 
the  mountains  terminating  with  Penmaenmawr ;  northwards,  Beaumaris, 
its  bay  and  Anglesea  ;  w.  is  the  town,  and  the  surrounding  eminences.  Pass 
Port  Penrhyn,  formerly  called  Aher  Ccgid.  (See  55.)  Along  the  quay  of 
this  small  port  very  large  brigs  and  snows  lie  with  sufficient  depth  of 


BANGOR. 


57 


water.  Vessels  from  300  tons  to  400  tons  here  take  their  cargo^  which 
consist  of  extremely  fine  slates  of  a  large  size^  and  slabs  of  slate  rock. 
Almost  close  to  the  port  is  a  small  house_,  called  Lime  Grove,  built  by 
Wyatt,  inhabited  by  the  agent,  in  a  pleasing  style  of  architecture,  and 
sheltered  by  a  flourishing  plantation,  disposed  with  great  taste.  Near  the 
port  is  a  large  manufactory  of  ciphering  slates,  inkstands,  and  other  fancy 
articles.  At  a  short  distance,  an  elegant  gateway  leads  to  Penrhyn  Castle. 
This  mansion,  the  magnificent  seat  of  George  Hay  Dawkins  Pennant,  Esq., 
who  succeeded  to  this  princely  domain,  on  the  death  of  the  late  Lord  and 
Lady  Penrhyn,  is  supposed  to  stand  upon  the  site  of  a  palace,  which  in  the 
eighth  century  belonged  to  Roderic  Mwynog,  the  son  of  Edwal  Iwrch,  son 
of  Cadwaladr,  the  last  king  of  the  Britons.  The  House  was  rebuilt  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  VI.  by  Gwillim  ap  GryfFydd,  and  exhibited  a  fair  specimen 
of  the  domestic  architecture  prevalent  at  that  period.  These  alterations 
were  made  from  designs  by  Wyatt.  The  whole  structure  is  now  rebuild¬ 
ing,  on  an  extensive  scale,  and  will  probably  be  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
castellated  baronial  residences  in  the  kingdom.  It  is  in  the  ancient  style  of 
architecture,  of  Mona  marble,  crowned  with  towers.  The  internal  decora¬ 
tions  correspond  with  the  splendour  of  the  exterior.  The  Chapel  was  re¬ 
moved  to  a  grove  a  few  yards  distant.  The  modernised  porch  forms  an 
heterogeneous  vestibule,  but  the  interior  is  neatly  fitted  up  ;  the  chancel  is 
elegant ;  the  pulpit,  composed  of  cedar,  exhibits  specimens  in  basso-relievo, 
perhaps  never  surpassed.  The  e.  pointed  window  is  of  painted  glass  by 
the  late  Mr.  Eggington  of  Birmingham.  There  are  several  lodges,  all 
elegant  and  lofty.  The  principal  one,  near  the  junction  of  the  London 
and  Chester  roads,  is  a  fine  display  of  the  prevailing  style  of  the  whole. 
The  Baths  are  at  the  distance  of  1  m.  upon  the  beach,  near  Port  Pen¬ 
rhyn,  in  the  way  to  which  is  the  cottage  of  Mr.  Lloyd,  the  under-steward. 
This  station  commands  an  uncommonly  fine  view.  The  objects  which 
form  it  are  the  sea,  Ormeshead  rock,  Penmaenmawr,  Carnedd  Llywelyn, 
and  Carnedd  Dafydd,  the  island  of  Anglesea,  from  Beaumaris  n.  to  Pen- 
moii,  and  Priestholme,  with  the  woods  of  Baron-hill.  Out  upon  the  sands, 
is  an  extensive  weir  and  fishery.  At  the  castle  is  still  preserved  an  elegant 
specimen  of  the  Hirlas,  or  ancient  drinking  horn,  similar  to  the  wassail 
howl,  in  use  among  the  Saxons,  Another  is  in  the  possession  of  Lord 
Cawdor. 

This  large  bugle  of  an  ox  is  inchased  with  silver,  and  suspended  by  a 
chain  of  the  same  metal.  At  the  end  are  engraved  the  initials  of  Piers 
Gryffydd  and  family.  Reach  the  horn  for  the  sake  of  conviviality,”  says 
Cyveiliawg,  impatiently  longing  for  the  liquor  of  the  ninth  wave,  “  Hirlas 
its  appellation,  its  cover  gold.”  Employing  an  ample  fortune  with  taste 
and  judgment.  Lord  Penrhyn  gave  a  new  aspect  to  this  neighbourhood,  and 
while  he  enriched  himself  promoted  the  interests  of  a  numerous  class  of 
men.  The  professional  skill  of  Mr.  Benjamin  Wyatt,  his  lordship’s  agent, 
brother  to  the  celebrated  architect,  and  who  possesses  no  small  share  of 
kindred  genius,  was  called  into  action,  to  adorn  a  tract  of  several  miles 
round  Penrhyn  Castle. 

On  the  21st  of  January,  1808,  the  public  sustained  the  loss  of  Richard 
Pennant,  Baron  Penrhyn,  who  died  at  his  seat  in  Cheshire.  His  remains 
were  conveyed  to  Capel  Curig,  and  afterwards  to  Penrhyn  Castle,  where 
they  were  interred  in  the  family  vault.  He  served  during  several  parlia¬ 
ments  as  member  for  Liverpool.  His  habits  of  application,  thorough 
acquaintance  with  business,  and  complete  knowledge  of  trade  and  of  com¬ 
mercial  concerns  were  very  considerable.  But  in  no  respect  was  his  lord- 
ship  distinguished  more  honourably  to  himself  and  more  serviceably  to  his 


58 


BANGOR. 


country,  than  by  the  magnificent  improvements  which  he  introduced  into 
the  county  of  Caernarvon.  Judicious  in  his  arrangements,  and  spirited  in 
the  execution  of  his  plans,  he  entered  on  no  measure,  which  either  in  itself, 
or  as  an  example,  was  not  beneficial  to  all  around  him.  In  the  course  of  a 
few  years  tlie  agriculture  of  his  own  large  possessions  and  of  the  neigh¬ 
bouring  country,  made  greater  advances  in  improvement  than  it  had  done 
for  several  preceding  centuries,  and  by  the  creation  of  an  active  and  exten¬ 
sive  traffic,  the  materials  drawn  from  his  own  estate,  gave  employment  and 
food  to  thousands.  Thus,  by  his  countenance  and  assistance,  the  example 
was  set  of  making  that  country  accessible  to  itself  and  to  the  world,  by  the 
opening  of  roads  throughout  almost  every  pass  among  its  mountains.  In 
1765  his  lordship,  then  Mr.  Pennant,  married  Ann  Susannah,  only  child 
and  heiress  of  General  Hugh  Warburton,  of  Winnington,  in  Cheshire, 
He  was  son  of  Richard  Pennant,.  Esq.  of  Penrhyn,  created  a  baron,  Sep¬ 
tember  26th,  1783. 

Bangor  Ferry,  called  in  Welsh  Porthaethwy  (the  ferry  of  the  confined 
waters),  is  at  the  distance  of  1^  m.  from  the  town  of  Bangor,  upon  the  e. 
bank  of  the  straits  of  the  Menai.  This  ferry  was  more  frequented  than 
any  of  the  other  established  on  the  Menai.  The  passing  and  repassing  of 
horses,  carriages,  people,  and  cattle  is  exceedingly  numerous.  For  the 
last,  unfortunately  there  was  no  accommodation,  and  they  were  compelled 
by  their  drivers  to  swim  across.  Their  dreadful  bellowings  struck  the 
humane  spectator  with  horror.  Persons  in  boats  attended  up  on  each  side 
to  keep  them  in  a  direct  line.  When  arrived  on  the  opposite  side  the 
scene  was  wretched.  Some  were  so  much  exhausted  as  to  be  incapable  of 
standing,  those  which  were  restive  were  beaten  afresh,  the  rest  appeared 
disordered  and  furious,  forming  together  a  group  at  which  humanity 
shrinks.  In  order  to  obviate  these  inconveniences,  the  foundation  of  a 
bridge  over  the  Menai  strait,  was  laid  August  lOth,  1819:,  ^7  Mr.  Telford, 
engineer.  The  first  great  iron  plate  for  forming  the  fastening  of  Menai 
bridge,  was  laid  in  its  proper  position  in  the  bottom  of  one  of  the  caverns 
which  had  been  formed  out  of  the  solid  rock  on  the  Anglesea  shore,  on 
Easter  Monday,  1823.  Sir  Henry  Parnell  and  Mr.  Telford  attended  on  the 
occasion,  and  did  not  leave  the  place  till  all  the  necessary  arrangements 
were  adopted  for  proceeding  immediately  with  putting  up  the  large  quan¬ 
tities  of  iron-work  which  had  arrived  from  Mr.  Hayledine’s  forges  in  Shrop¬ 
shire,  for  forming  the  suspending  cables.  {Brande’ s  Journal,  July,  1823.) 

The  height  of  the  road- way  above  the  surface  of  high  water  is  100  ft. 
The  main  opening  580  ft.  between  the  points  of  suspension,  or  538 1  at 
the  level  of  high  water.  From  the  principal  piers  to  the  shore,  the  road 
is  carried  over  stone  arches  of  50  ft.  span  each,  resting  upon  slender  piers. 
On  the  Caernarvonshire  side  there  are  three  arches,  and  on  the  Anglesea 
side  four  arches.  The  breadth  of  the  road  is  28  ft.  divided  into  3  ;  the 
middle  is  a  footpath  4  ft.  wide,  and  each  side  a  carriage  way  of  12  ft. 

The  main  opening  Of  the  bridge  substituted  for  the  inconvenient  ferry, 
is  560  ft.  between  the  points  of  suspension ;  the  road-way  is  30  ft.  in 
breadth,  and  100  ft.  above  the  level  of  high-water  at  spring  tides. 

Light  as  those  delicate  fairy  threads  we  see,  — 

That  silver  web  of  most  consummate  skill, 

Which,  in  the  summer  air,  scarce  visible. 

Flings  arches  exquisite  from  tree  to  tree,  — 

Art  thou,  most  wondrous  Bridge  !  thy  majesty 
Is  as  some  beauteous  dream-like  miracle  ! 

Terror,  and  doubt,  and  exultation’s  thrill. 

Into  one  breathless  joy  are  blent  by  thee, 


BANGOR. 


59 


And  thy  dread  sky-borne  pathway  o’er  the  blue, 

And  soundless  sea,  and  dwindled  ships  that  glide 
Mutely  the  bright  enchanted  region  through  ; 

While  thou  dost  sit  as  empress  o’er  the  tide  ; 

E’en  like  that  nation  high,  whose  power  and  pride 

Could  lift  thee  as  her  symbol  to  our  view.  Eliza  M.  Hamilton. 

Wonderful  as  this  structure  undoubtedly  is  the  chain  bridge  at  Fribourg 
in  Switzerland^  far  surpasses  it,  the  span  of  which  from  pier  to  pier  is 
870  ft.  and  its  point  of  suspension  at  the  height  of  I67  ft.  above  the  river. 

There  is  steam  communication  during  the  summer  months,  between 
Menai  Bridge,  Bangor,  Beaumaris,  and  Liverpool,  every  Monday,  Wed¬ 
nesday,  and  Friday  mornings  at  nine  o’clock,  returning  from  Liverpool  on 
the  alternate  days  at  eleven  in  the  forenoon.  Cabin  fare  including 
steward’s  fees  7-^-  Deck  ditto  Ss.  6d. 

From  Menai  Bridge  an  entirely  new  road  has  been  made  through  the 
island  of  Anglesea,  crossing  the  main  ridge  at  I60  ft.  below  the  level  of  the 
old  road ;  in  the  whole  distance  it  passes^  over  a  gently  waving  surface, 
without  one  inconvenient  ascent  or  descent ;  it  is  broad,  smooth,  and  well 
protected,  and  by  crossing  the  Stanley  sands,  the  circuity  by  the  4  ra. 
bridge  is  avoided,  and  the  line  to  Holyhead  rendered  very  direct.  The 
Menai  bridge  hotel  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Menai,  where 
Mrs.  Hughes  affords  ample  and  very  superior  accommodations,  combining 
the  retired  comforts  of  a  private  house  with  the  convenience  of  an  inn. 

Upon  an  eminence  above  the  bridge  is  a  handsome  newly-erected  man¬ 
sion,  called  Trehorth  or  Gorphwysfa  (resting-place),  commanding  delightful 
views,  built  by  Lord  Lucan,  the  residence  of  Thomas  Parry  Jones,  Esq.; 
and  at  a  short  distance  Plasynllanfair ,  Col.  Peacock.  The  British  copper 
coin  of  Carron  (Corausius)  and  of  Alectus,  who  both  reigned  in  the  third 
century,  were  found  in  this  neighbourhood  a  few  years  ago,  in  fine  pre¬ 
servation.  (^Lloyd's  Beaumaris  Bay,  1799-) 

The  islet  of  Llan  Tysilio,  which  lies  at  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred 
yards,  may  easily  be  visited  during  the  absence  of  the  tide.  The  walls  of 
the  churchyard  are  washed  by  the  sea. 

Upon  the  shore  grows  abundance  of  Cochlearia  officinalis,  C.  danica, 
Papaver  cambricum.  Lichen  fuscus,  L.  lanatus,  L.  cserulescens,  Bryum 
verticillatum  ;  and  on  the  rising  ground,  between  the  city  and  the  ferry, 
the  Hypericum  angustifolium,  and  Galeopsis  villosa. 

The  munificient  Lord  Bulkeley  has  supplied,  at  a  vast  expense,  an  ex¬ 
cellent  carriage  road  from  Porthaethwy  to  Beaumaris  along  the  shelving 
side  of  the  hill,  a  considerable  height  above  high  water  mark.  The  former 
road  was  not  only  circuitous,  but  inconveniently  narrow  and  uneven.  In 
advancing  upon  the  new  road,  in  extent  4  m.,  the  charming  bay  gradually 
opens,  presenting  a  succession  of  unrivalled  picturesque  and  sublime 
scenery.  1  m.  distant  from  Menai  bridge  is  Plas  Codreant,  J.  Price,  Esq. 
From  the  ferry-house,  upon  the  e.  banks  of  the  Menai,  about  2  m.  distant, 
come  to  the  pretty  cottage  of  the  Rev.  - —  Owen,  commanding  in  front  the 
Carnarvonshire  mountains  ;  the  fine  projecting  grounds  of  Faenol,  the  seat  of 
Ashton  Smith,  Esq.,  1  m.,  and  Bryntirion,  the  residence  of  Mr.  Jones,  1  m.  ; 
1  m.  further  is  Moel-y-don  Ferry,  which  might  be  crossed  for  the  sake  of 
visiting  Bids  Newydd,  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Anglesea,  and  return  upon 
the  w.  side  of  the  strait  to  Bangor  ferry,  by  way  of  Llanfair  and  Llandysilio. 

To  Gwindy.  An  Inn,  called  the  Three  Tuns,  is  stationed  upon  the 
Anglesea  side.  Brant  turnpike-gate,  2  m.  If.  (On  the  r.  to  Beaumaris 
through  Llandegfan  Rev.  Dr.  Howard,  4km.)  After  having  advanced 


60 


BANGOR. 


4  m.  on  the  road  to  Gwindy  from  the  landing-place  at  Bangor-ferry. 
Penmynydd  (the  summit  of  the  hill)  lies  ^  m.  to  the  r.  The  church  is 
situated  upon  an  eminence,  and  supposed  to  have  been  built  about  the 
year  630,  dedicated  to  St.  Gredifael.  This  was  once  the  lordship  of  the 
ancestors  of  Owain  ah  JMeredydd  ah  Tudyr^  commonly  called  Owen  Tudor, 
second  husband  to  Catherine  of  France,  queen  dowager  of  Henry  V.,  from 
whom  descended  the  royal  family  of  Tudor.  The  remains  of  the 
residence  of  the  Tudors  are  the  door  of  the  gateway  ;  part  of  the  house, 
and  the  great  chimney-piece  of  the  hall  may  be  seen  in  the  present  farm¬ 
house.  Some  coats  of  arms  and  dates  of  the  building,  or  time  of  repairs, 
are  visible,  with  the  initial  letters  of  the  names  of  the  owners.  In  the 
church  of  Penmynydd  is  a  most  magnificent  monument  of  v;hite  alabaster, 
removed  at  the  dissolution  from  the  abbey  of  Llanfaes  to  this  place ;  pro¬ 
bably  erected  in  memory  of  one  of  the  house  of  Tudor,  who  had  been 
interred  there.  Upon  it  is  the  figure  of  a  man  in  complete  armour,  a  conic 
helm,  and  mail-guard  down  to  his  breast.  His  lady  is  in  a  thick  angular 
hood.  Their  feet  rest  on  lions  their  heads  are  supported  by  angels.’’ 
(^Pennant.'')  In  visiting  this  place,  Mr,  Hutton^walked  33  m.  to  examine  it, 
though  at  the  age  of  77;  and  spent  two  days  in  making  inquiries.  His 
remarks  are  as  follow:  —  ‘‘‘The  chief  that  is  said  of  Owen  in  history,  is 
that  he  was  accomplished,  and  a  handsome  Welsh  gentleman.”  And  is 
this  all  the  man  merits  who  furnished  England  with  a  numerous  race  of 
kings  ?  Shall  he  be  consigned  to  oblivion  whom  history  has  not  charged 
with  error,?  Let  him  live  then  in  my  page,  since  he  has  not  found  another. 
His  private  estate  was  not  quite  400  acres,  worth,  in  the  present  day, 
7^.  6d.  an  acre,  150/.  per  annum.  As  money,  378  years  ago,  was  10 
times  the  value  it  is  now,  his  estate  must  then  have  been  about  15/.  a  year. 
He  occupied  it  himself.  The  land  forms  the  side  of  a  hill,  and  declines 
to  the  w.  The  house  is  stone  unhewn,  the  walls  of  which  are  3  f.  thick, 
and  stands  in  the  grounds,  about  200  yards  from  the  road,  but  fronting 
the  N.,  and  consists  of  only  2  stories,  4  rooms  on  a  floor,  all  low  and  little. 
Tradition  says,  It  has  been  rebuilt  since  Owen’s  time  and  Mr.  Pennant 
states,  There  is  a  gateway  and  a  chimney-piece  yet  standing.”  But  tra¬ 
dition  may  mistake  reparation  for  building ;  and  Mr.  Pennant’s  gateway  is 
certainly  only  a  house-door,  without  a  porch,  3  ft.  wide,  in  the  form  of  a 
Gothic  arch.  The  thick  wall  being  ciphered  off,  and  fluted  in  the  Gothic 
style,  gives  it  a  grander  air.  To  this  you  rise  by  a  semicircular  flight  of 
4  steps.  The  chimney-piece  is  ample,  formed  of  hewn  stone,  having  an 
elliptic  arch,  and  in  tolerable  preservation.  It  is  contracted  within,  perhaps 
owing  to  smoke.  The  room  has  been  designated  by  Mr.  Pennant  The 
great  hall.”  It  would  better  bear  the  name  of  kitchen,  for  I  think  it  is 
not  15  ft.  square.  If  the  door  and  chimney-piece  be  allowed  to  be  Owen’s, 
we  must  allow  the  whole,  except  a  modern  addition  or  two,  which  seem  to 
have  been  made  to  the  back  part  of  the  house,  facing  the  turnpike  road. 
Over  the  house-door  is  a  device  cut  in  stone,  too  much  weather-beaten  to 
be  understood.  Over  the  stable-door  are  the  family  arms.  In  the  wall  of 
the  brew-house,  are  flve  stones  with  inscriptions.  On  one  Eslopus,”  on 
another  ‘"‘'ausdod”  (the  first  letter  wanting)  ;  on  a  third,  Vivela  Vibas.” 
A  fourth  contains  eight  or  ten  words  much  defaced  by  time.  On  the  fifth 

Q  ^  1650.  These  are  perhaps  the  initials  of  two  brothers  who 

repaired  the  building.  Upon  a  summer,  within  the  brew-house,  15  ft.  long, 
is  a  line  of  words,  the  whole  length  of  the  beam,  in  an  ancient  style,  which 
I  could  not  understand.  Henry  V.  died  in  1422,  leaving  his  son  Henry  VI., 


BANGOR. 


61 


§  months  old.  Catherine  of  France,  his  widow,  married  Owen  in  1428, 
and  from  what  can  be  collected  from  history  they  lived  agreeably  together. 
She  never  acted  on  the  political  stage,  and  he  was  kept  totally  behind  the 
curtain,  not  having  conferred  on  him  the  honour  of  knighthood,  till  about 
SO  years  after,  by  his  son  the  Earl  of  Pembroke.  The  king’s  uncle  assumed 
the  reins  of  government,  to  whom  this  match  was  disagreeable.  The  queen 
lived  9  years  after  her  marriage,  and  died  Jan.  3.  1437,  in  Bermondsey. 
She  was  buried,  but  when  Henry  VII.,  her  grandson,  built  his  chapel,  she 
was  taken  up,  and  never  interred  after,  but  lay  neglected  in  a  shabby  coffin, 
near  her  husband’s  monument  in  Westminster  Abbey.  During  the  next 
22  years,  Owen  appears  to  have  sunk  in  his  style  of  living,  and  in  his 
resources,  which,  perhaps,  were  reduced  to  the  issues  of  his  estate.  The 
queen  seems  to  have  been  his  protector,  for  on  her  death,  Humphrey,  Duke 
of  Gloucester,  caused  him  to  be  apprehended  and  committed  to  the  Tower, 
because,  contrary  to  the  statute  made  in  the  sixth  of  this  king’s  reign  (after 
the  fault  was  committed),  he  had  married  the  queen  without  the  king’s 
consent.  He  escaped  out  of  prison,  but  was  again  apprehended,  and  com¬ 
mitted  to  Wallingford  Castle,  under  the  Earl  of  Suffolk  ;  out  of  which,  by 
the  assistance  of  a  priest,  he  made  a  second  escape,  but  was  again  taken  by 
Lord  Beaumont  and  committed  to  Newgate.  Polychronicon  says,  that 
Owen  was  an  esquire,  of  low  birth,  and  as  low  a  degree yet  it  is  well 
known  that  Henry  VII.,  his  grandson,  traced  him  up  to  the  famous  Cad- 
walader,  and  from  him  to  Arthur,  prince  of  Wales.  By  Catherine,  Owen 
had  three  sons,  Edmund,  Jasper,  and  Owen,  he  had  also  a  daughter,  who 
died  young.  Though  the  court  took  no  notice  of  the  father,  except  to 
punish  him,  they  attended  to  the  children.  Edmund  was  created  Earl  of 
Richmond,  and  married  the  heiress  of  the  house  of  Beaufort,  pretenders  to 
the  crown,  after  the  reigning  family.  He  died  in  1456,  at  about  the  age 
of  27j  leaving  his  son,  afterwards  Henry  VII.,  15  weeks  old.  Jasper  was 
Earl  of  Pembroke.  Owen  took  a  religious  order.  [Hume  mentions  only 
two  sons.]  In  1459?  Henry  VI.,  granted  to  Sir  Owen  Tudor  100/.  a 
year  out  of  his  manors  of  Falkston,  Walton,  and  Bensted  in  Kent ;  and 
the  next  year  some  emoluments  out  of  the  lordship  of  Denbigh.  But  he 
enjoyed  these  only  one  year,  for  in  146l,  he  was  taken  prisoner  by 
Edward  IV.,  at  the  battle  of  Mortimer’s  cross,  in  fighting  for  the  house  of 
Lancaster,  as  an  officer  under  his  son  the  Earl  of  Pembroke,  was  carried 
to  Hereford,  suffered  decapitation  without  trial,  and  lies  buried  in  the 
Gray  Friars’  Church.  Whether  Tudor  was  a  gainer  or  loser  by  his  ele¬ 
vation,  the  reader  will  determine.  His  private  fortune  would  have  supplied 
every  necessary  of  life,  and  something  more ;  all  beyond  is  pride.” 
(^Remarks  on  North  Wales.) 

From  this  place  to  the  1.  Im.  leads  to  Llanfihangel  (Rev.  W.  Pool  incum¬ 
bent),  at  a  short  distance  from  which  village  a  bed  of  coal  has  been  discovered. 
On  the  1.  of  the  road  to  Llangefni  is  Hirdrefaig ;  i  m.  further  on  the  1. 
Tregarned.  This  house,  which  is  roofed  with  copper,  derives  its  name  from 
an  immense  Carnedd,  or  piled  heap  of  stones,  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  up¬ 
right  ones  in  an  adjacent  field.  Beneath  are  numerous  hollow  passages, 
formed  by  flat  flag  stones  laid  upon  others  placed  edgewise.  At  a  short 
distance  behind  this  house  is  the  ancient  residence  of  that  valiant  and  dis¬ 
tinguished  chieftain,  Ednyved  Vychan,  the  able  counsellor  and  minister  of 
Llywelyn  the  Great  in  the  13th  century.  He  was  successful  in  his  advance 
against  a  powerful  English  army,  which  invaded  the  frontier,  slaying  with 
his  own  hand  three  of  the  principal  leaders,  carrying  their  heads  to  his 
royal  master.  From  this  personage  was  descended,  in  a  direct  line,  the  fa- 


62 


BANGOR. 


mous  Owen  Tudor,  the  ancestor  of  Henry  VII.,  Henry  VIII.,  Edward 
VI.,  and  every  heir  to  the  British  throne  since  that  period.  At  this  place 
was  born  the  ill-fated  Sir  GryfFydd  Llwyd,  grandson  of  Ednyved  Vychan  just 
mentioned.  He  assented  to  acknowledge,  as  potentate,  any  person  nominated 
by  Edward  I.,  but  feeling  uneasy  under  the  yoke  of  subordination,  perceiv¬ 
ing  the  wrongs  and  oppressions  of  his  duped  and  suffering  countrymen,  and 
indignant  at  an  affront  offered  to  him,  he  meditated  a  revolt.  For  this  pur¬ 
pose  he  endeavoured,  about  the  year  1317^  to  form  an  alliance  with  Edward 
Bruce,  then  king  of  Ireland,  but  without  effect.  In  1322  he  took  up  arms, 
and  was  aided  by  the  diversions  from  other  insurrections  under  Madoc  and 
Owen  Glyndwr,  but  suffering  a  defeat  by  the  English  troops,  he  retreated 
into  Anglesea  to  his  house  of  Tregarnedd,  which  was  fortified  with  a  foss 
and  ramparts.  He  garrisoned  with  his  followers  a  strong  hold  called 
Cefniy  situated  in  a  morassy  part  of  the  Malltraeth  sands,  about  three  m. 
distant,  which  he  insulated  by  bringing  round  it  the  waters  of  the  river  Cefni. 
The  foss  still  remains  nearly  perfect,  being  eight  yards  wide  and  four  deep. 
Here,  however,  after  a  desperate  struggle  he  was  taken  prisoner,  confined 
some  time  in  Rhyddlan  castle,  and  at  length  executed.  Llangefni  (Rev.  Evan 
Williams  rector),  2  m.  If.  This  village  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  vale.  A 
few  years  since  it  consisted  of  a  single  house,  which  stood  near  the  bridge 
over  the  Cefni.  In  1801  it  contained  97  houses  and  539  inhabitants. 
Besides  the  church  there  are  2  dissenting  chapels,  2  good  inns,  shops  of 
every  description,  and  a  weekly  market.  On  the  r.  is  a  road  to  Tregaian, 
distant  2^  m.  noticed  as  the  birth-place  and  residence  of  William  ap  Howel 
ap  Jorwerth,  called  the  Welsh  patriarch,  who  lived  about  the  latter  end  of 
the  l6th  century,  and  died  at  the  age  of  105.  His  first  wife  brought  him 
22  children;  the  second,  10;  the  third,  4;  and  two  concubines  bore  him 
7,  making  in  the  whole  43.  In  the  year  1581,  when  his  youngest  son  was 
only  2^  years  old,  his  eldest  was  84.  Between  this  place  and  Llanerchy- 
medd  is  Maes  Rhos  Rliyfel  where  a  most  decisive  battle  was  fought  between 
the  forces  of  Owain  Gwynedd,  prince  of  North  Wales,  and  an  invading 
army  of  Erse,  Manks,  and  Normans.  In  repulsing  the  various  attempts  of 
Henry  II.  he  acquired  considerable  glory.  To  the  e.  of  this  common  is 
Castell^  where  Roman  coins  of  several  emperors  have  been  found,  but  no 
vestiges  discovered  of  any  station.  One  m.  beyond  Llangefni,  on  the  L,  is 
a  road  to  Llangristiolus ,  distant  about  2  m.,  the  birthplace  of  Dr.  Henry 
Maurice.  His  father  was  curate  of  the  parish,  and  having  received  a 
scholastic  education  at  Beaumaris,  in  1(564,  he  was  admitted  servitor  of 
Jesus  College,  Oxford.  He  afterwards  attended  Sir  Leoline  Jenkins,  who 
was  sent  ambassador  to  Cologne.  On  his  return  he  was  patronised  by  Dr. 
Lloyd,  successively  bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  Lichfield,  and  Worcester,  and  be¬ 
came  chaplain  to  Archbishop  Sandcroft.  As  a  polemic  he  refuted  David 
Clarkson’s  treatise  entitled,  No  Evidence  for  Diocesan  Episcopacy  in  the 
Primitive  Times.”  In  I69I  Dr.  Maurice,  having  been  preferred  to  the 
rectory  of  Newington,  was  elected  Margaret  Professor  of  Divinity  in  Oxford, 
and  soon  after  taking  possession  of  the  annexed  prebend  in  Worcester  cathe¬ 
dral,  he  fell  a  martyr  to  disease.  Returning  to  the  road  1  m.  beyond,  on 
the  1.  is  Hen  eglwys,  “  the  old  church,”  dedicated  to  Llwydian.  On  the  r. 
at  some  distance,  lie  Tregaian  and  Llangwyllog.  Gwyndy,  5  m. 

The  road  from  Bangor-ferry  to  Caernarvon  has  nothing  extraordinary 
to  arrest  attention,  till  the  fourth  milestone  has  been  passed ;  then,  on  a 
sudden  turn  of  the  road,  the  straits  of  the  Menai,  the  wooded  isle  of  Anglesea, 
and  beyond  these  the  distant  Rivel  mountains  on  one  side,  open  into  a  placid 
scene;  the  black  precipices  and  shagged  sides  of  the  rocks  of  Caernarvonshire 


BANGOR  ISCOED. 


63 


on  the  other,  forming  a  most  delightful  contrast.  Proceeding,  the  town  and 
castle  of  Caernarvon,  after  some  time,  complete  the  scene,  and  realise  one  of 
the  most  exquisite  landscapes  the  eye  ever  beheld.  {Bingley.') 

There  is  an  excellent  road  to  Beaumaris,  made  at  the  expense  of  the 
late  Lord  Bulkeley  among  the  cliffs  which  form  the  Anglesea  shores  of  the 
Menai,  and  secured  by  a  strong  stone  wall,  5  ft.  high.  This  effort  of  a 
noble  public  spirited  character  most  agreeably  curtails  a  very  circuitous  road 
from  Bangor-ferry  to  Beaumaris.  This  road  has  been  compared  to  that 
between  Barmouth  and  Dolgelly,  probably  by  mistake,  since  the  resem¬ 
blance  is  far  from  striking.  The  objects  from  it  are,  however,  very  inter¬ 
esting;  these  are  the  Snowdonian  range,  the  town  of  Beaumaris,  and  bay  ; 
Priestholme  island,  Ormeshead,  and  Penmaenmawr. 

Angling  Station, —  Capel-Curig,  14|-  m. 


To  Beaumaris  and  back  ;  hence  to  Capel  Curig. 
Pugh. 

The  Menai  Bridge,  2^  ;  thence  to  Beaumaris 
Similes.  Wyndham. 

Caernarvon,  9  miles.  Bingley  ;  Hutton. 
Conway,  14i  miles.  Hutton  ;  Gilpin. 

Conway ,through  Port  Penrhyn  and  Penmaen¬ 
mawr,  15  miles.  Warner. 


To  Beaumaris,  6i  miles.  Warner’s  2d  Walk  j 
Skrine. 

Back  to  Conway,  15  miles.  Gilpin. 
Capel-Curig,  14i  miles. 

Gwindy,  14i  miles. 

Aber,  4^  miles.  Pennant,  after  an  excursion 
to  Nant-Frangon.  Aikin. 


BANGOR  ISCOED. 


From  Holt,  7  miles.  Pennant. 

Ruaban,  10  miles.  Bingley. 


From  Wrexham,  5  miles. 


BANGOR  ISCOED,  or  Bangor  in  Maelor,  is  situated  in  a  detached 
part  of  Flintshire,  3  m.  n. e.  of  Overton,  on  the  banks  of  the  Dee,  which 
here  passes  under  a  bridge  of  five  arches.  It  contains  1389  inhabitants. 
The  living  is  a  rectory,  |the  church  dedicated  to  St.  Dunawd,  principal  of 
the  monastery  when  Augustine  arrived.  The  fort  is  very  ancient.  A  pa¬ 
rochial  free  school  was  founded  here  in  1728  by  Lady  Dorothy  J.  Grey, 
widow  of  the  chief  justice  of  that  name.  From  a  few  hundred  yards  below 
the  bridge,  a  beautiful  landscape  is  presented,  including  the  river,  bridge, 
and  the  tower  of  the  church,  rising  above  a  clump  of  trees.  This  place  is 
famed  on  account  of  having  been  the  site  of  the  most  ancient  monastery  in 
the  kingdom,  founded  by  Lucius,  or  Lies  ah  Coel,  first  Christian  king  of 
Britain,  sometime  previous  to  the  year  180.  From  this  establishment  it 
obtained  its  British  name  Ban-Cor,  superior  choir.  This  celebrated  college 
was  remarkable  for  its  valuable  library,  and  its  number  of  manuscripts  and 
learned  men.  Gildas  Nennius,  a  disciple  of  Elvod,  who  lived  in  the  7th 
century,  and  wrote  in  Latin  an  incorrect  history  of  Britain,  yet  extant,  was 
one  of  the  abbots.  According  to  Speed,  the  monastery  of  Bangor,  in  the 
year  5Q6^  contained  not  less  than  2400  monks,  100  of  which  passed  in  their 
turns  one  hour  of  devotion.  Leland  asserts  that  bones  of  the  monks  and 
fragments  of  their  clothes  have  been  ploughed  up.  This  place  appears  also 
to  have  been  the  site  of  Banchorium  of  Richard  of  Cirencester,  and  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  Bovium  of  Antonine.  Roman  pavements  are 
occasionally  found,  but  there  are  no  remains  either  of  the  monastery  or  city. 
The  scenery  is  in  many  places  beautiful  and  richly  picturesque ;  the  noble 
sweeps  of  the  Dee  are  frequently  overshadowed  by  thick  hanging  woods, 
which  fringe  its  elevated  banks. 

Inn. — George  and  Dragon. 

To  Overton,  Smiles  ;  thence  to  Ruabon,  7  miles.  Pennant;  Bingley. 

BARDSEY-ISLE,  see  BEDDGELART. 


64 


BARMOUTH. 


BARMOUTH. 

From  Llaniltyd,  10  miles.  Pennant.  |  From  Dolgelly,  10  miles.  J.  Evans. 

Harlech,  10  miles.  Bingley  ;  Warner.  J  Towyn,  11  miles,  through  Llangelynin, 

I  Pennant. 

BARMOUTH^  or  Aber-Maw,  a  small  sea-port  and  market  town  in  tlie 
hundred  of  Ardudwy^  Merionethshire,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  n.  side 
of  the  river  Mawddach.  This  stream  divides  into  two  channels,  between 
which  is  an  islet  named  Ynys-y-Brawd,  the  Friar’s  Island,”  This  sec¬ 
tion  of  the  river,  with  a  gravel  bench  to  the  s.,  forms  the  harbour,  which 
formerly  afforded  pasturage,  but  the  greater  portion  is  now  laid  under  water. 
The  houses  are  disposed,  either  on  the  sands  in  a  low  situation,  or  are  reared 
at  different  heights  on  the  side  of  a  vast  rock,  like  those  of  Dartmouth ;  the 
streets  are  piled  like  some  in  Edinburgh ;  this  place  has  often  been  com¬ 
pared  to  the  town  of  Gibraltar.  These  houses  form  eight  tiers,  one  ranging 
above  another,  to  which  there  is  no  approach  but  by  steps  cut  in  the  rock. 
The  market  occurs  on  Friday,  and  fairs  are  holden  on  Whit-Monday, 
7th  of  October,  and  21st  of  November.  The  petty  sessions  are  held  here. 
Scurvy  grass  abounds  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  This,  with  the  benefit  of 
sea-bathing,  is  supposed  to  have  formed  an  attraction  to  invalids.  The 
purity  of  the  air,  beautiful  scenery,  fine  beach,  and  interesting  excursions 
in  the  vicinity,  have  rendered  Barmouth  a  fashionable  watering  place.  Here 
are  two  excellent  inns  ;  the  boarding  and  lodging  houses  are  rarely  surpassed 
in  comfort.  The  spirited  proprietor  of  the  Cors-y-gedol  Arms,  Mrs.  Bar¬ 
nett,  has  constructed  warm  and  cold  sea- water  baths.  There  is  also  a  bil¬ 
liard-room  ;  and  assemblies  are  held  during  the  season  at  the  hotel.  Guides 
to  the  lakes  and  waterfalls  are  easily  procured. 

In  this  vicinity  are  found  Asplenium  lanceolatum. 

The  population  is  estimated  at  2000.  Many  prefer  this  seclusion  to 
Bath  and  Brighton.  The  wide  river  Mawddach,  called  here  the  Avon, 
winds  delightfully  among  the  mountains,  having  many  lofty  and  elegant 
promontories  upon  its  margin  ;  some  are  ornamented  with  thick  woods,  and 
others  present  rocks,  partially  covered  with  heath.  In  the  background, 
towering  above  the  inferior  mountains,  is  seen  the  bifurcated  Cader- Idris. 
Upon  the  summit  of  Binas-Gortin  was  formerly  a  military  trench. 

Bryn-tirion,  the  property  of  Charles  Henry  Harford,  Esq.,  is,  among 
others,  a  very  beautiful  residence. 

When  the  promontory  of  Llyn  is  viewed  from  Barmouth,  from  the  hills 
above  Aberdyfi,  or  from  Aberystwith,  it  presents  the  appearance  of  an 
interrupted  range  of  conic  mountains,  which  decrease  in  height  and  increase 
in  distance  one  from  the  other,  as  the  traveller  proceeds  in  an  e.  direction. 

Near  Ceil-warth  is  a  stone  serving  as  a  foot  bridge,  on  which  is  this 
inscription,  —  Hie  jacet  Calixtus  monedo  Regi.”  There  is  no  tradition 
of  the  place  whence  it  was  removed. 

At  Tan-yr-Allt,  in  Llangelynin,  across  the  ferry,  lived  Mary  Boherts, 
an  extraordinary  woman,  who  at  the  age  of  fifteen  was  attacked  with  a 
species  of  dyspepsia.  Mr.  Pennant  saw  her  in  1770,  and  Mr.  Pugh 
visited  her  in  1810.  She  was  then  eighty- six  years  of  age.  Her  food  was 
bread  and  milk,  of  which  she  ate  but  a  few  pennyweights  once  a  clay.  She 
is  since  dead. 

To  Dolgelly  proceed  along  the  banks  of  the  Mawddach,  commonly 


BARMOUTH. 


'65 


called  Afon-vawr.  The  first  2  m.  lies  on  what  the  inhabitants  of  Barmouth 
call  the  Beach;,  forming  a  most  interesting  route.  In  the  composition  of  the 
views  scarcely  any  thing  appears  deficient.  Every  requisite  of  mountain  and 
vale^  wood^  water,,  meadows,  and  rocks,  is  arranged  in  beautiful  order. 
Beyond  the  beach  a  road  has  been  made  at  a  vast  expense,  forming  a  shelf 
along  the  side  of  an  impending  mountain,  which  winds  at  a  little  distance 
from  the  river,  among  low  eminences,  from  which  are  views  of  the  river, 
partly  hidden  by  intervening  mountains. 

Pont-du,  a  stone  bridge  of  one  arch,  5  m.,  bestrides  a  furious  torrent, 
rushing  from  a  dark  wooded  glen,  in  a  beautiful  cascade  just  above.  One 
m,  further,  the  mountains  in  front  recede  from  the  river,  and  rich  meadows 
make  a  pleasing  variety.  From  the  bridge  at  Llanelltyd  the  vale  is  seen 
to  great  advantage. 

Kymmer  Abbey  lies  at  the  distance  of  ^  m.  from  this  village.  A  finer 
combination  of  interesting  and  magnificent  scenery  than  that  which  is  pre¬ 
sented  to  the  eye  of  the  traveller  on  this  route  is  not  perhaps,  in  an  equal 
space,  to  be  found  in  any  country.  Geese,  gulls,  black  and  white  sea-crows, 
penguins,  puffins,  ring  ouzles,  cormorants,  wheat-ears,  and  many  smaller 
birds  frequent  this  coast.  On  the  sands  grow  Glaux  maritima.  Antirrhinum 
Orontium,  Euphorbia  Peplis,  Cineraria  palustris,  Arenaria  maritima,  A. 
peploides,  A.  rubra  var.  /3,  and  Cheiranthus  sinuatus.  On  rocks,  Plantago 
maritima,  Crithmum  maritimum,  Salicornia  herbacea.  In  shady  places,  on 
the  1.  of  the  road  to  Dolgelly,  Melampyrum  sylvaticum.  On  the  shores, 
Cochlearia  officinalis;  and  on  a  rock  behind  the  town,  Fumaria  lutea.  A  rock 
near  the  harbour  abounds  with  the  Armeria  Statice.  Many  prefer  making 
a  trip  from  Barmouth  to  Dolgelly  by  water.  The  river,  however,  is  dimi¬ 
nished  so  much  in  width  and  depth  within  the  last  mile,  as  not  to  admit 
even  of  a  pleasure-boat  within  m.  of  the  town.  The  tourist  should  choose 
the  time  of  high  water,  when  the  whole  bed  of  the  Mawddach  being  filled, 
the  landscapes  become  extremely  picturesque.  This  beach  affords  a  beautiful 
drive  of  six  miles. 

Proceeding  to  Haulech,  the  road  lies  along  the  undulating  shore  of 
Cardigan  Bay.  On  the  r.  is  the  wmstern  termination  of  the  upper  Merio¬ 
nethshire  chain,  ending  in  abrupt  crags  and  rude  precipices,  down  to  the 
strand.  On  the  1.  the  ocean,  dashing  over  irregular  sands,  and  foaming 
against  the  rocky  shores  of  Penmorfa,  which  lie  in  beautiful  perspective, 
and  form  the  northern  horn  of  Cardigan  Bay.  At'  Llandduwe,  4^  m., 
the  road,  deviating  from  the  shore,  favours  an  ascent  to  Cors-y-Gedol,  an 
ancient  seat  of  the  Vaughans,  1  m.  to  the  r.,  now  of  the  Hon.  E.  M.  L.  Mos- 
tyn,  and  occupied  by  Bell  Lloyd,  Esq.  Midway  on  this  road  lies  Sarn- 
Badrig.  Mr.  Bingley’s  guide  pointed  this  out  as  part  of  a  long  stone  w’^all, 
which  runs  into  the  sea  in  a  w.s.w.  direction  for  nearly  20  m.,  twenty-four 
feet  in  thickness.  Sarn-y-Bwch  is  supposed  to  meet  the  end  of  it;  but 
Mr.  Ayton,  on  exploring  it  in  a  boat,  says,  I  saw  it  nearly  at  low  water, 
and  it  appeared  evidently  a  bank  of  pebbles,  several  hundred  yards  in  width. 
Sarn-y-Bwch  is  full  9  m.  distant  from  any  part  of  it.”  {Voyage,  i.  157.)  The 
woods  abound  with  large  timber,  but  are  so  affected  by  western  winds  that 
they  have  the  appearance  of  being  shorn,  like  the  wood  of  Margam,  in  Gla¬ 
morganshire.  This  vicinity  abounds  in  British  antiquities;  Cra\g-y-I)mas 
is  a  conical  hill,  the  summit  of  which  is  surrounded  by  a  vast  pile  of  rough 
stones,  used  as  ramparts,  and  supposed  to  have  been  a  British  post.  It  has 
an  oblique  entrance  with  stone  facings,  and  near  it  are  two  other  ramparts 
of  stone.  N.w.  of  this,  on  the  summit  of  another  eminence,  is  Castell-dinas- 
Cortin,  entrenched  with  an  advanced  work  in  front ;  at  a  small  distance  in 

F 


66 


BARMOUTH. 


the  plain,  between  these  posts,  are  a  variety  of  druidical  remains ;  crom- 
lechau,  carneddau,  stone  circles,  maenhirion,  and  cistveini. 

Carneddau-Hengwm  are  of  stupendous  size.  The  largest  is  55  feet  long, 
12  feet  high.  At  the  e.  end  is  a  great  cromlech  altar  formed  of  two  sloping 
stones,  one  placed  over  the  edge  of  the  other,  upon  five  flat  upright  stones, 
7  feet  high  in  one  part  and  4  feet  10  inches  in  the  lowest.  Castell  Craig-y- 
Dinas  and  Castell  Dinas-Cortin  were  evidently  formed  as  defences  to  the 
sacred  ground  before  mentioned.  Two  other  carneddau  are  near  this  place; 
one  is  named  Bryn- Corny n-Jau,  the  hill  of  the  horns  of  Jove.”  Con¬ 
tiguous  are  the  small  lakes  of  Llyn-Bodlyn  and  Llyn-dulyn;  the  former 
famous  for  its  char,  and  the  latter  for  a  deformed  species  of  trout,  men¬ 
tioned  by  Giraldus. 

Llyn-Cwm-Hwel  is  another  lake,  2  m.  n.,  remarkable  for  a  race  of  trouts 
with  deformed  heads,  thick,  flatted,  and  toad-shaped. 

Near  this  place  is  Maes-y-Garnedd,  the  birthplace  of  the  regicide  Col. 
Jones.  Hence,  2^  m.,  is  the  pass  of  Bwlch  drws  Ardudwy ;  but  Mr.  Evans 
says  it  is  so  arduous,  that  he  preferred  returning  to  the  road.  At  a  short 
distance  before  we  reach  Harlech  we  may  turn  to  the  r,,  and  after  passing 
over  a  high  and  dreary  moor,  we  descend  the  side  of  a  mountain,  and  enter 
a  charming  woody  glen.  About  S  m.  from  the  point  where  the  Harlech 
road  is  quitted,  pass  Maes-y-Nenedd,  ‘^‘^the  house  of  Mr.  Nanny,”  near  the 
foot  of  a  mountain.  Behind  this  mansion  are  corn-fields  and  woods,  and  in 
front  steep  lawns.  From  a  lake  upon  the  summit  of  the  mountain  issues  a 
rivulet,  which  cascades  near  the  house.  Below  occurs  the  road  from  Bar¬ 
mouth  to  Tan-y-Bwlch,  Festiniog,  &c.  for  the  accommodation  of  those  who 
do  not  choose  to  ford  the  sands.  Pass  Llyn-Tegwin-isaf,  and  the  village 
of  Llantegwin,  scattered  over  a  verdant  hill  in  front.  Near  the  summit 
is  the  church,  and  a  meeting-house.  After  some  descent  reach  Llyn- 
Tegwn-uchaf,  more  than  a  mile  in  circumference,  deeply  embosomed  in 
lofty  naked  mountains.  The  road  leads  to  the  summit  of  a  steep  hill  over¬ 
looking  the  vale  of  Festiniog  and  Tan-y-Bwlch.  From  this  station  fertile 
meadows,  a  winding  stream,  a  bridge,  two  inns,  with  rocks  and  woods,  in 
one  of  which  rises  a  noble  mansion,  embellish  the  scene.  These  objects  are 
encircled  by  stupendous  mountains,  including  Snowdon.  A  waterfall  occurs 
about  half  way  down  the  hill.  If  on  horseback,  the  visitor  must  retrace  his 
way  to  the  spot  where  he  quitted  the  Harlech  road,  or  back  to  Barmouth. 

To  Towyn,  Mr.  Pugh  advises  the  artist  to  pass  through  Llyn-y-Gader 
to  Dolgelly,  and  thence  by  Tal~y~Llyn,  a  road  little  inferior  to  that  of 
Nant-Nanhwynen.  Peniarth  is  a  noble  looking  mansion,  commanding  the 
scenery  just  described ;  below  is  Llanegryn,  a  mean  and  miserable  little 
village.  Pass  the  grounds  of  Ynys-y-maen-gwyn,  the  seat  of  A.  Corbet, 
Esq.,  a  noble  mansion,  the  grounds  of  which  command  much  beautiful 
scenery,  and  contain  flourishing  plantations,  among  which  an  evergreen 
oak  is  considered  to  be  the  finest  specimen  in  the  kingdom.  The  garden 
is  very  extensive,  containing  many  very  rare  trees  and  plants. 

Angling  station.  —  Capel  Artliog,  3  m.  Not  less  than  eleven  streams 
now  into  the  estuary  of  Barmouth  Harbour,  all  of  which  abound  with 
salmon,  sewin,  trout,  eels,  and  mullet. 

Some  coasting  vessels  belong  to  the  port  of  Barmouth.  The  imports  are 
coal,  grocerie,s,  and  other  articles  in  common  use.  The  exports  are  some 
woollen  goods.  For  the  particulars  of  the  state  of  manufactures  in  Wales, 
see  Aikin’s  Tour,”  p.  69. 

To  D61gelly,  10  miles.  Bingley  ;  Warner.  To  Maentwrog,  17^  miles. 

Harlech,  10  miles.  J.  Evans  ;  Pennant.  Towyn,  11  miles.  Pugh. 

Dtigelly  and  Falls,  to  Tan-y-Bwlch,  28  miles. 


BEAUMARIS. 


67 


BEACHLEY. 

BEACH  LEY,  in  Gloucestershire,  is  the  passage-house  for  crossing  the 
Severn  to  Bristol.  Opposite,  upon  the  Bristol  side,  is  Aust  Passage - 
House,  or  Old  Passage. 

At  Tudenliam,  near  this  place,  commences  the  famous  foss  called  Clwyd 
Offa.  It  may  be  clearly  traced  crossing  the  road  at  Buttington  Tump. 
Tudenham  parish  is  bounded  by  the  Wye  and  Severn,  and  in  it  is  half  of 
Chepstow  bridge.  At  the  point  where  the  two  rivers  divide  may  be  seen 
upon  a  rock  at  low  water,  the  ruins  of  St.  Teclas  Chapel,  who  is  said  to 
have  been  martyred,  anno  47* 

To  Monmouth,  through  St.  Briavels,  4|  m.,  Clearwell,  2  m.  New- 
land,  1|  m.,  m.  on  the  r.,  is  High  Meadow  House,  Lord  Gage.  (Near 
Redbrook,  on  the  r.,  to  Mitchel  Dean,  12  m.)  Redhrook,  1  m.  Cross  the 
Wye  to  Monmouth,  2|  m. 

To  Chepstow,  2i  miles.  I  To  Newnham,  15  miles. 


BEAUMARIS. 


From  Llanelian,  14  miles.  Bingley. 

Bangor,  6^  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Warner; 
Skrine. 

Bangor  Ferry,  6  miles.  Pugh. 


From  Plas  Newydd,  6  miles.  Pennant. 
Penmaenmawr,  6  miles.  Gilpin. 
Aber,  4  miles.  Pugh. 


BEAUMARIS,  a  sea-port,  borough,  market-town,  and  chapelry,  in 
the  parish  of  Llandegfan,  is  the  capital  of  Anglesea,  finely  situated  on  a 
low  s.-E.  shore,  called  Beaumaris  Bay.  The  present  town  appears  to  have 
originated  from  the  circumstance  of  a  castle  having  been  erected  here  about 
the  close  of  the  thirteenth  century,  by  Edward  I.,  upon  the  site  of  a  small 
oratory,  denominated  Capel  Meugan.  About  that  period,  the  name  was 
changed  from  Bornover  to  Beaumaris,  the  beautiful  marsh,”  from  the 
French  beau  and  marais.  The  English,  for  some  time  after  the  Conquest, 
affected  to  call  both  persons  and  places  by  French  names,  as  Beau  clerk,  De 
la  Mere,  &c.  The  remains  of  the  Castle  are  now  included  within  the 
domains  of  Sir  R.  W.  Bulkeley  ;  they  lie  close  to  the  town,  covering  a  large 
space  of  ground,  in  a  low  situation.  Its  erection  was  subsequent  to  its 
proud  rivals,  Conway  and  Caernarvon.  It  appears  to  have  been  the  last 
of  the  three  great  fortresses  erected  by  Edward.  On  the  conquest  of 
Wales,  in  1295,  he  fixed  upon  this  spot  with  a  view  of  surrounding  it  with 
a  fosse,  for  the  double  purpose  of  defence,  and  the  introduction  of  small 
craft  to  unload  under  its  walls,  by  a  canal ;  part  of  this,  named  Llyn-y- 
Green,  was  lately  remaining.  From  the  period  of  its  erection  to  the  time 
of  Charles  I.,  Beaumaris  does  not  appear  conspicuous  in  the  page  of  history. 
On  the  accession  of  Charles*  II.,  Lord  Bulkeley  was  constable  of  the  castle, 
which  at  present  is  the  property  of  Sir  R.  B.  Williams  Bulkeley,  Bart.,  who 
has  laid  out  walks,  ornamented  with  plantations  and  shrubberies,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  public.  The  residence  of  this  patriotic  and  distin¬ 
guished  individual  is  justly  deemed  a  common  blessing  to  the  neighbour¬ 
hood.  The  style  of  architecture  displayed  in  Beaumaris  Castle  resembles 
Edward’s  other  fortresses,  partaking  more  of  the  eastern  than  the  western 
miode  of  building.  The  lowness  of  the  site,  the  expansive  diameter  of  its 

F  2 


68 


BEAUMARIS. 


circular  towers  arid  bastions^  together  with  the  dilapidated  state  of  its  walls, 
deprives  this  structure,  though  exceedingly  ponderous,  of  that  prominent 
character,  and  imposing  effect,  so  strikingly  apparent  in  the  prouder  piles 
of  Caernarvon  and  Conway.  The  shape  approaches  to  a  parallelogram, 
bounded  by  a  case,  which  encircles  the  castle.  This  outer  ballium  consists 
of  low  massive  embattled  walls,  flanked  by  ten  circular  bastion  towers  ;  one 
at  each  angle  is  very  large  ;  three  are  of  lesser  dimensions  in  the  interme¬ 
diate  spaces,  on  the  n.  and  s.  sides.  •  There  are  two  entrance  gateways  ;  one 
to  the  w.  contains  a  large  pointed  arch  between  two  strong  square  towers, 
defended  by  two  other  collateral  ones  of  dissimilar  shape.  This  was  fitted 
up  with  portcullises,  and  evidently  formed  the  sallying  postern.  The  other 
entrance,  facing  the  sea,  is  formed  by  two  circular  bastion  towers,  between 
which  a  pointed  arched  way  was  fortified  with  four  portcullises  ;  on  the  1. 
rises  a  large  square  tower,  and  on  the  r.  is  a  curtain,  or  long  narrow 
advanced  work,  embattled  and  machicolated,  perhaps  intended  for  the 
defence  of  those  employed  on  the  canal,  when  supplying  the  garrison. 
Under  an  arch  in  this  work,  passes  the  surrounding  moat ;  a  communication, 
through  an  aperture  in  the  upper  part  of  the  arch,  was  probably  formed  to 
receive  supplies.  Rings  for  mooring  chains  still  remain  in  the  walls  of  a 
projection,  called  the  Gunner’s  W alk.  The  interior  consists  of  an  area 
190  ft.  square,  having  obtuse  corners.  The  centre  of  the  n.-w.  side  con¬ 
sisted  of  a  magnificent  hall,  in  length  70  ft.,  breadth  23,  and  proportionate 
in  height,  with  a  range  of  five  large  painted  windows,  constituting  a  hand¬ 
some  front  to  the  inner  quadrangle.  On  the  e.  side  of  the  area,  are  the 
remains  of  a  chapel,  in  form  of  a  small  theatre,  the  sides  of  which  are  orna¬ 
mented  with  receding  pointed  arches  ;  an  elegant  groined  roof  is  supported 
by  ribs,  springing  from  pilasters,  between  which  are  three  lancet-shaped 
windows,  A  communication  was  made  between  various  parts  of  the  inner 
court,  by  means  of  a  circular  gallery,  about  6  ft.  wide ;  a  considerable  portion 
is  yet  entire.  Within  recesses  in  the  sides  of  the  gallery,  are  several  square 
apertures,  apparently  once  furnished  with  trap-doors,  which  opened  into 
rooms  beneath  ;  but  their  use  has  not  been  ascertained.  Mr.  Grose  thinks  they 
may  have  been  appropriated  to  purposes  of  imprisonment.  A  considerable 
portion  of  the  side  towards  the  sea  was  taken  down  in  1831,  to  furnish 
materials  for  the  erection  of  a  new  Hotel,  and  the  completion  of  other  im¬ 
provements.  A  tennis,  fives-court,  and  bowling-green  have  been  formed 
within  the  interior.  In  front  of  the  castle,  there  is  a  delightful  walk,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Menai,  which  here  expands  into  a  fine  bay,  bounded  upon 
the  opposite  shore  by  mountains,  and  opening  into  the  main  sea.  The  en¬ 
trance  of  this  bay  is  defended  on  the  e.  by  the  promontory  of  Ormeshead. 
The  Conway  falls  into  the  bay  through  a  wide  opening.  On  the  s.  side 
appear  the  bleached  cliffs  of  Penmaen-Bach,  and  more  distant  the  gigantic 
Penmaenmawr.  The  town  of  Beaumaris  was  surrounded  with  walls,  in 
someplaces  still  entire, some  for  its  defence, and  placed  under  the  government 
of  a  corporation,  endowed  with  various  privileges  and  lands.  Mr.  Lloyd 
supposes,  from  local  tokens  being  circulated  by  opulent  tradesmen,  about 
the  year  l650,  of  which  he  had  several  in  his  possession,  that  it  was  a 
place  of  considerable  traffic.  The  present  clean  and  beautifully  situated 
town  consists  of  several  streets,  of  which  one  terminated  by  the  castle  is 
very  handsome,  and  the  houses  are  generally  well  built.  According  to  the 
census  of  1801,  its  population  amounted  to  1576;  in  1831,  to  2497*  Us 
markets,  which  are  on  M’^ednesdays  and  Saturdays,  are  well  supplied  with 
provisions.  This  fashionable  resort  is  much  frequented  during  the  summer 
months  by  numerous  genteel  families,  attracted  by  the  pleasantness  of  this 


BEAUMARIS. 


69 

part  of  the  island^  and  the  benefit  of  sea-bathing.  '  The*  sands  are  fine^, 
along  which  are  ranged  bathing  machines.  Beaumaris  has  of  late  been 
greatly  improved  by  the  widening  and  paving  of  several  principal  streets,  and 
the  erection  of  numerous  handsome  buildings.  Alterations  are  in  progress, 
on  the  completion  of  which  it  will  form  one  of  the  most  elegant  towns  in 
Wales.  Warm  and  cold  baths  have  been  erected.  The  site  of  St.  Meu~ 
gans  is  still  shown,  in  a  field,  near  the  new  battery.  This  was  a  chapel 
of  ease  to  Llandegvan.  The  chapel  of  St.  Mary’s,  a  perpetual  curacy,  and 
subordinate  to  the  parochial  church  of  Beaumaris,  is  a  spacious  and  elegant 
structure,  consisting  of  a  chancel,  nave,  and  two  aisles,  with  a  large  square 
embattled  tower.  To  the  left  of  the  altar  is  a  monument  of  white  marble, 
executed  by  Westmacott,  in  memory  of  Lord  Bulkeley,  who  died  in  1822. 
On  a  half-pillar,  is  a  bust  of  his  lordship,  with  an  inscription.  His 
widow  is  represented  standing  at  the  foot  of  the  pillar  in  a  dejected  atti¬ 
tude.  A  figure  of  Faith  leans  over  her,  and  points  at  the  same  time  to¬ 
wards  her  husband  and  heaven.  Upon  an  elegant  altar- tomb  in  the  chancel 
lie  two  recumbent  figures,  well  sculptured  in  alabaster ;  one  of  them  is  a 
knight  in  armour,  his  head  resting  upon  a  helmet,  with  a  lion  couchant  at 
his  feet.  A  female  figure  is  by  his  side,  habited  in  a  long  robe.  Various 
diminutive  figures,  in  the  costume  of  monks  and  knights,  decorate  the  sar¬ 
cophagus  of  this  singular  monument,  said  to  have  been  removed  from 
Llanvaes,  at  the  dissolution  of  that  religious  house  ;  but  to  whose  memory 
it  was  erected,  cannot  be  ascertained.  Upon  the  s.  side  of  the  altar,  a  large 
mural  oblong  tablet  bears  several  devices  and  inscriptions.  In  the  vestry 
adjoining,  were  deposited  the  remains  of  Lady  Beatrice  Herbert,  daughter 
of  the  celebrated  mirror  of  chivalry,  Lord  Herbert  of  Cherbury.  Near 
this,  lies  interred  the  Rev.  Gronwy  Davies,  with  an  inscription,  concluding 
as  follows :  — 

“  Here  lies  learning,  friendship,  love  ; 

And  innocency  of  the  dove. 

Within  this  grave,  and  in  the  dust, 

H  is  ever  courteous  body  must 
Until  the  resurrection  lie  ; 

Then  he  shall  live  and  death  shall  die.” 

The  Free  Grammar  School  was  erected,  and  liberally  endowed,  by  David 
Hughes,  Esq.,  in  the  year  I6O9,  who,  ten  years  afterwards,  founded  also  an 
almshouse  for  eight  poor  persons,  to  whom  he  granted  small  annuities. 
Present  income  6OOZ.  per  annum.  The  apartments  are  situated  about  I  m. 
out  of  the  town,  near  the  lodge-gate  to  Baron-hill  Park,  the  proprietor  of 
which  has  added  four.  Mr.  Hughes  was  born  about  the  middle  of  the  six¬ 
teenth  century,  in  a  cottage  now  in  ruins,  upon  the  farm  of  Glan-y-groes, 
in  the  parish  of  Llantrissant,  Anglesea.  He  left  the  island  early  in  life, 
in  a  very  humble  station,  but,  by  prudence  and  propriety  of  conduct,  he 
realised  a  decent  fortune. 

“  ’T  is  here  the  active  worth  of  Hughes  appears, 

A  blest  Asylum  for  the  wreck  of  years  ; 

If  there  his  views  the  opening  mind  engage ; 

Here  he  supports  the  trembling  limbs  of  age  ; 

His  breast  embraced  within  his  godlike  plan, 

At  once  the  morn  and  evening  hours  of  man  ! 

And  ye  who  here  his  lasting  bounty  share, 

Whose  tranquil  days  decline  without  a  care  ! 

If  still,  as  night  shall  close,  day  greet  your  eyes, 

No  grateful  aspirations  reach  the  skies. 

Indignant  heaven  beholds  you  with  a  frown, 

Nor  gives  the  ingrate.  Life’s  immortal  crown.”  —  Lloyd. 

F  3 


70 


BEAUMARIS. 


A  National  School  was  founded  in  1816.  The  Old  Town  Hall,  built 
in  1563;,  has  been  taken  down,  and,  under  the  patronage  of  the  late  Lord 
Bulkeley,  another  more  elegant  was  erected  upon  its  site.  The  basement 
story  includes  a  prison,  and  excellent  shambles,  secured  with  iron  gates 
and  railing.  Above  is  a  large  room,  and  other  apartments  for  the  transac¬ 
tion  of  municipal  business ;  the  former  is  the  finest  ball-room  in  the  prin¬ 
cipality.  The  town,  re-incorporated  in  the  4th  year  of  Elizabeth,  is 
governed  by  a  mayor,  recorder,  two  bailiffs,  twenty-four  burgesses,  two 
Serjeants  at  mace,  a  town  clerk,  gaoler,  four  constables,  and  a  water  baihff. 
It  sends  one  member  to  parliament,  in  conjunction  with  Amlwch,  Holyhead, 
and  Llangefni.  The  mayor  is  the  returning  officer,  and  Lord  Bulkeley  is 
considered  the  patron.  The  County  Hall,  erected  in  1614,  is  a  small  low 
building,  neither  conveniently  formed  nor  ornamental  in  its  appearance, 
though  of  late  much  improved.  The  Custom  House  stands  upon  the  Green 
near  the  edge  of  the  water.  The  Common  Gaol  and  House  of  Correction 
form  a  large  and  commodious  edifice.  The  Bulkeley  Arms  Hotel  is  equal 
to  any  establishment  in  the  kingdom.  The  Commercial  Inn  and  Liverpool 
Arms  afford  also  the  best  accommodations. 

The  modern  Druids  of  Anglesea,  in  priority  of  agricultural  societies,  take 
the  lead  ;  they  surpass  those  of  the  ancient  fraternity  in  their  attempts  to 
improve  the  cultivation  of  their  once  famed  Mona.  Instead  of  assembling 
in  the  sacred  groves  of  the  Menai,  around  massive  cromlechs,  reeking  with 
the  blood  of  victims,  in  imitation  of  their  ancestors ;  they  now  meet  in  a 
place  more  congenial  with  the  tenets  of  modern  Druidism,  where  the  arch- 
Druid  and  his  conclave  decide  the  claims  of  competitors  for  prizes  proposed 
to  them  the  preceding  year  ;  such  as  the  greatest  number  of  roods  of  quick¬ 
sets,  planted  in  three  rows  ;  for  the  best  crop  of  turnips  ;  for  the  greatest 
number  of  acres  of  moory  or  boggy  land  drained,  and  other  improvements. 
A  premium  is  also  offered  for  saving  persons  shipwrecked  upon  the  coast 
of  Anglesea.  During  the  last  thirty  years,  not  less  than  2000/.  have  been 
expended  by  this  humane  fraternity. 

Lleiniog  Castle  lies  n.  of  Beaumaris,  enveloped  in  brushwood.  This 
small  castle  was  erected  in  IO98,  by  Hugh  Lupus,  Earl  of  Chester,  and 
Hugh  de  Montgomery,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury.  This  fort  held  out  in  the 
civil  wars  under  Sir  Thomas  Cheadle,  but  in  l645  it  surrendered  to  Col. 
Robertson.  Returning,  pass  Fryers,  the  seat  of  Sir  Robert  Williams, 
Bart. ;  close  to  the  road  and  house  are  the  remains  of  the  monastery  of 
Llanfaes.  See  Aber. 

According  to  the  history  of  the  Gwydir  family,  in  Daines  Barring¬ 
ton’s  Miscellanies,  the  three  towns  established  in  Wales  by  Edward  I.,  i.  e. 
Caernarvon,  Beaumaris,  and  Conv^ay,  were  of  a  superior  class,  and  con¬ 
tinued,  long  after  the  time  of  their  foundation,  to  be  the  principal  seats  of 
education,  commerce,  and  politeness.  Caernarvon  was  the  great  seminary 
of  learning,  Beaumaris  the  seat  of  commerce,  and  Conway  the  court  where 
they  learnt  to  turn  out  their  toes,  and  make  a  bow.  Each  town  had  then 
its  distinctive  mark,  and  it  was  usual  to  talk  of  the  lawyers  of  Caernarvon, 
the  merchants  of  Beaumaris,  and  the  gentlemen  of  Conway.  Alas  !  and 
what  are  they  now  ?  Caernarvon  is  devoted  to  the  exportation  of  slates, 
little  more  ;  Beaumaris  has  no  trade  ;  and  Conway  has  sunk  into  poverty, 
having  lost  both  its  polish  and  its  pride. 

Beaumaris  Bay  consists  of  an  expansive  opening  in  front  of  the  town, 
so  sheltered  by  the  island  of  Priestholme  and  great  Ormeshead,  as  to  allow 
vessels  of  considerable  burden  to  ride  in  safety,  during  the  most  stormy 
weather.  The  depth  of  water  near  the  town,  at  ebb-tide,  is  from  six  to 


BEAUMARIS. 


71 


seven  fathoms ;  but  the  channel  scarcely  exceeds  m.  in  breadth.  The 
greater  part  of  the  bay  is  left  dry  for  several  miles  when  the  tide  is  out, 
and  is  called  The  Lavan  Sands.  These  once  formed  a  habitable  hundred, 
belonging  to  the  territory  of  Arvon.  They  were  formerly  called  Wylsvaen, 
or  the  place  of  weeping,”  from  the  shrieks  and  lamentations  of  the  in¬ 
habitants,  at  the  time  when  the  land  was  suddenly  overwhelmed  by  the  sea, 
in  the  days  of  Helig  Voel  ap  Clunog,  or  Glanog,  in  the  sixth  century.  Lavan 
is  a  corruption  of  Traeth-Talaven,  the  fermented  heap,”  allusive  to  the 
boiling  up  of  water  in  the  quicksands.  This  is  not  the  only  instance  of 
the  encroachment  of  the  sea  upon  this  coast.  In  the  churchyard  of 
Abergwellt,  in  Denbighshire,  near  Rhuddlan  Marsh,  there  is  a  dateless 
epitaph,  mentioned  by  Pennant,  evidencing  that  a  vast  tract  of  in¬ 
habited  country  extended  at  least  2  m,  n.  of  that  place.  The  inscription 
runs  thus  :  —  Yma  mae’n  gorwedd  yn  monwent  Mihangel,  gwr  oedd  ai 
annedd  dair  i’r  milltir  gogledd.”  In  this  churchyard  lies  a  man  who 
lived  three  miles  to  the  n.  of  the  tract  in  question.  But  as  a  better  proof,’' 
(continues  Mr.  Pennant,)  I  have  observed,  at  low  water,  far  from  the 
clayey  banks,  a  long  tract  of  hard  loam,  filled  with  the  bodies  of  oak  trees 
tolerably  entire,  but  so  soft  as  to  cut  with  a  knife  as  easily  as  wax,”  {Tour, 
iii.  155.  8 VO,  edit.)  A  manuscript,  quoted  in  Lloyd’s  Beaumaris  Bay,” 
written  in  the  time  of  James  I.,  contains  a  terrier  and  description  of  various 
parcels  of  lands  situated  in  this  vicinity,  with  their  valuation.  The  Ferry, 
was  granted  by  charter  to  the  corporation,  in  the  4th  year  of  Elizabeth. 
It  lies  near  the  town.  The  place  of  embarking  or  landing  is  the  point 
anciently  known  under  the  appellation  of  Penrhyn-Savnes ;  afterwards  it 
was  called  Osmund's  Air,  from  a  malefactor,  who,  on  his  way  to  execution, 
being  asked  where  he  was  going,  answered,  To  take  the  air.”  The  walk 
over  the  sands,  at  low  water,  is  firm  and  good  ;  they  should  be  passed  three 
hours  after  high  water,  and  will  be  safe  for  four  hours,  or,  in  other  words, 
two  hours  before  low  water,  and  two  after.  The  following  table  will  prove 
an  accurate  guide ;  — 


Lavan  Sands. 


Moon’s  Age. 

High  Water. 

Low  Water. 

Moon’s  Age. 

High  Water. 

Low  Water. 

H. 

M. 

H. 

M. 

H. 

M. 

H. 

M. 

1 

or 

16 

11 

18 

5 

6 

9 

or 

24 

5 

42 

11 

30 

2 

or 

17 

12 

6 

5 

54 

10 

or 

25 

6 

30 

12 

18 

3 

or 

18 

12 

54 

6 

42 

11 

or 

26 

7 

18 

1 

6 

4 

or 

19 

1 

42 

7 

30 

12 

or 

27 

8 

6 

1 

54 

5 

or 

20 

2 

30 

8 

18 

13 

or 

28 

8 

54 

2 

42 

6 

or 

21 

3 

18 

9 

6 

14 

or 

29 

9 

42 

3 

30 

7 

or 

22 

4 

6 

9 

54 

15 

or 

30 

10 

30 

4 

18 

8 

or 

23 

4 

54 

10 

42 

Explanation.  —  When  the  moon  Is  1  or  16  days  . old,  it  is  high  water  at  Beaumaris 
at  1 8  minutes  past  1 1  o’clock.  The  time  of  low  water  on  the  same  days  is  6 
minutes  past  5. 

These  precautions  are  essentially  necessary  to  be  taken,  for  at  high  water 
they  frequently  shift,  and  in  many  places  prove  both  dangerous  and  fatal. 
This  way  is  equally  perilous  in  foggy  weather,  but  as  some  persons  are 
necessitated  to  pass  in  every  season,  the  large  bell  at  Aber  is  rung,  to  direct 
them  towards  the  sound.  At  ebb-tide  the  channel  between  the  sands  and 
the  town  are  a  \  m.  wide  and  6  or  7  ft.  deep.  The  Bay  has  good  anchorage 
for  ships,  being  7  fathoms  deep  at  the  lowest  ebb.  Yet  with  these  advantages 

F  4 


72 


BEAUMARIS. 


the  place  has  very  little  trade^  and  is  supported  chiefly  by  the  wants  of  the 
men  belonging  to  the  numerous  vessels  which  lie  waiting  for  winds,  or  that 
shelter  during  heavy  gales  to  find  security. 

Baron  Hill,  the  seat  of  Sir.  R.  B.  Williams  Bulkeley,  Bart.,  is  beautifully 
situated  upon  an  eminence  above  Beaumaris,  at  the  head  of  an  extended  lawn 
sloping  to  the  town  and  castle,  and  finely  screened  with  umbrageous  woods. 
The  original  mansion  of  this  family  was  Court-mawr,  in  Castle  Street, 
Beaumaris.  They  afterwards  built  Old  Place,  where  they  resided  till  the 
reign  of  James  I.  Sir  Richard  Bulkeley,  being  in  great  favour  with  Prince 
Henry,  eldest  son  of  that  monarch,  erected  Baron  Hill  for  his  reception 
when  on  his  way  to  Ireland,  where  the  king,  his  father,  intended  to  send 
him  as  viceroy  ;  but  the  untimely  death  of  the  young  Prince  so  affected 
Sir  Richard,  that  he  gave  up  his  original  and  magnificent  plan,  and  con¬ 
tented  himself  with  what  was  then  completed,  as  his  family  seat.  The 
house  was  subsequently  greatly  enlarged  and  improved  by  its  late  noble 
proprietor,  under  the  direction  of  the  celebrated  Samuel  W yatt. 

The  grounds  surrounding  this  charming  residence  are  richly  diversified 
by  nature,  and  variegated  by  art ;  the  lawns,  groves,  and  bridges,  with 
other  ornamental  buildings,  are  finely  disposed  ;  and  the  numerous  walks 
and  rides  judiciously  laid  out.  The  view  from  Baron  Hill  is  justly  the 
boast  of  the  island.  At  a  short  distance  hence  is  a  semicircular  bastion 
mounted  with  four  pounders  ;  from  this  part  of  the  elevation,  the  prospect 
is  enchantingly  gratifying.  The  sea  to  the  n.  forms  a  most  magnificent 
bay,  between  the  coast  of  Lancashire  and  the  Isle  of  Man;  the  Menai 
opens  into  it,  between  Ormeshead  and  Priestholme,  with  all  the  grandeur 
of  an  American  river.  The  limits  of  the  water  in  front  expand  into  a  vast 
amphitheatre,  formed  by  a  semicircular  range  of  mountains,  forming 
three  regular  gradations  to  the  chief  of  the  Snowdonian  range,  the  alpine 
ridge  which  flanks  the  e.  side  of  Nant  Frangon ;  the  protrusive  promon¬ 
tory  of  Penmaenmawr,  with  its  attendant  Penmaen-bach,  and  the  enormous 
mass  of  Llan-Dudno,  rising  like  an  island  out  of  the  sea,  are  rude  but  striking 
features  in  the  prospect.  These  contrast  charmingly  with  the  milder 
features  of  this  vicinity,  and  combine  to  produce  a  variegated  richness  on 
which  the  eye  delights  to  dwell.  In  this  neighbourhood  are  Red  Hill, 
W.  W.  Sparrow,  Esq.  Henll^s,  J.  H.  H.  Lewis,  Esq.,  anciently  the 
abode  of  Gweivydd  ab  Rhys  Goch  ;  the  Friary,  Lady  Williams  ;  Llangoed, 
Mrs.  Hughes  ;  and  Cadnant,  J.  Price,  Esq. 

Southward  of  Beaumaris  is  a  lesser  Snowdon,  formed  of  a  rock  called 
Craig-y-parc,  whence  is  a  jDanoramic  view,  various,  extensive,  and  beautiful. 

Lord  Bulkeley  liberally  caused  a  fine  coach-road  to  be  made  at  his  own 
expense  on  the  sea-coast  from  Beaumaris  to  the  Anglesea  side  of  Bangor 
ferry,  extending  4  m. 

Proceeding  from  Beaumaris  tow’^ards  Bangor,  the  mouth  and  harbour  of 
Conway  first  appear ;  then  the  rock  of  Penmaen-hach,  forming  an  abrupt 
shore,  which  continues  as  far  as  the  soaring  cliffs  of  Pen3iaenmawr, 
which  overhang  the  sea.  Approaching  Bangor,  the  mountains  recede, 
sloping  gently  to  the  water,  their  lower  parts  peopled  by  almost  a  con¬ 
tinued  line  of  villages. 

To  Gwindy  on  the  way  to  Holyhead,  proceed  past  Llansadwrn  to 
Plds.Gwyn,  the  white  mansion,  5  }  m.,  the  seat  of  Henry  Rowlands,  Esq. 
Though  this  mansion  cannot  rank  among  the  first  in  the  island,  it  contains 
a  well-selected  library,  and  an  invaluable  treasure  of  Welsh  MSS. 

Near  Plas-Gwyn  is  PencA'aig,o\\  the  1.  Hirdrefraig  and  Tregarnedd.  1-|  m. 
from  Plas-gwyn  occurs  Tyfry,  William  Williams,  Esq. ;  Llangefni,  4|  m. 


BEAUMARIS.  73 

See  a  description  of  the  remainder  of  the  route  to  Gwindy^  under  the 
article  Barmouth. 

To  Amlwch  pass^  Llanfaes  Priory  ;  it  is  now  called  the  Friars,  and  was 
a  monastery,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Llywelyn  ap  Jorwerth,  about 
1237j  over  the  spot  where  his  princess  was  interred.  Lord  Clifford,  and 
numerous  barons  and  knights,  who  fell  in  defending  their  country,  were 
buried  here.  Gryffyd  Grygg,  a  poet  of  Mona,  was  interred  here  about  the 
year  1370.  This  monastery  was  consecrated  by  Howel,  Bishop  of  Bangor, 
and  dedicated  to  St.  Francis.  Pennant  says,  ‘‘  I  am  informed,  that  on  the 
farm  of  Cremlyn  Monach,  once  the  property  of  the  Friary,  is  cut  on  a 
great  stone  the  effigies  of  its  patron  St.  Francis  ;  and  that  his  head  is  also 
cut  on  the  stone  of  a  wall  in  the  street  of  Beaumaris,  to  which  all  passengers 
were  to  pay  their  respects,  under  pain  of  a  forfeit.”  Henry  IV.,  in  opposing 
the  revolt  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  put  several  of  the  friars  to  the  sword,  took  the 
rest  prisoners,  and  plundered  the  convent.  His  son  Henry  V.  somewhat 
reinstated  the  establishment.  At  the  dissolution,  Henry  VIII.  disposed  of 
this  convent  and  its  possessions  to  one  of  his  courtiers.  The  ferocity  of  en¬ 
suing  times  converted  this  sacred  building  into  a  barn,  and  ejected  the  body 
of  Princess  Joan  from  her  narrow  tenement.  [See  page  3.]  A  family  of 
Whyte,  now  extinct,  possessed  the  estate,  and  built  on  the  site  of  the  Friary 
a  respectable  house,  which  has  since  been  enlarged.  At  present  it  is  a  seat 
belonging  to  Sir  R.  B.  W.  Bulkeley,  Bart.  The  chapel  of  this  monastery 
constitutes  the  only  remains.  Over  a  gateway,  in  an  inner  court,  is  a 
shield  with  the  arms  of  Collwyn  ap  Tagno,  lord  of  Efionydd  and  Ardudwy, 
founder  of  one  of  the  15  tribes  of  N.  Wales,  and  ancestor  of  the  late  re¬ 
sident  family.  It  is  dated  1623,  probably  the  period  when  the  priory  was 
converted  into  a  family  residence. 

Tre-yr~Castell.  —  At  a  short  distance  is  an  old  castellated  mansion,  once 
the  residence  of  the  descendants  of  Marchudd,  lord  of  Uwch  Dulas,  in 
Denbighshire,  but  now  occupied  as  a  farm  house.  Here,  in  the  13th  cen¬ 
tury,  also  lived  Sir  Tudur  ap  Gronwy.  This  knight  was  one  of  the  great 
landed  proprietors,  who  held  their  estates  in  capite  of  the  crown.  Edward  I., 
hearing  that  Sir  Tudur  had  assumed  the  honour  of  knighthood  Avithout  his 
permission,  called  him  to  account.  Sir  Tudur  replied,  that  by  the  laws  of 
the  Round  Table  he  had  claimed  that  right,  possessing  the  three  required 
qualities:  1.  he  was  a  gentleman;  2.  he  had  an  ample  fortune;  and  3. 
he  was  ready  to  fight  any  man  who  had  the  hardiness  to  dispute  it.  The 
king,  struck  with  the  dignity  of  his  deportment,  confirmed  the  title  he  had 
assumed.  {Powell.')  The  cellar  of  Tre-yr-Castell  was  famed  for  a  large 
stock  of  excellent  Metheglin.  Queen  Elizabeth,  who  was  descended  from 
this  house,  had  a  large  quantity  of  this  article  annually  imported  from  Wales, 
for  her  own  use.  The  following  receipt  for  making  this  liquor  is  from  an 
ancient  Welsh  manuscript :  —  Gather  a  bushel  of  sweet  briar  leaves,  and  a 
bushel  of  thyme,  a  bushel  of  rosemary,  and  a  peck  of  bay  leaves :  these 
being  well  washed,  seethe  them  in  a  furnace  of  fair  water ;  let  them  boil  the 
space  of  i  an  hour,  and  then  pour  out  all  the  herbs  and  water  into  a  vat, 
and  let  it  stand  till  it  be  but  milk-warm,  and  strain  the  water  from  the  herbs  ; 
and  to  every  six  gallons  of  this  water  put  one  gallon  of  fine  honey,  and  put  into 
the  boom  (that  is,  the  wort,  or  boiled  liquor)  and  labour  together  half  an 
hour ;  then  let  it  stand  five  days,  stirring  it  twice  or  thrice  a  day;  then  take 
the  liquor  and  boil  it  anew,  and  when  it  doth  seethe,  scum  it  as  long  as  any 
scum  remaineth  ;  when  it  is  clear,  put  it  into  the  vat,  as  before,  and  there 
let  it  be  cooled.  You  must  have  in  readiness  a  kind  of  new  ale  or  beer, 
which,  as  soon  as  you  have  emptied,  suddenly  whelm  it  upside  down,  and 


BEAUMARIS. 


74 

set  it  up  again_,  and  presently  put  in  the  Metheglin^  (n.  b.  this  in  room  of 
yeast)  and  let  it  stand  3  days  a  working,  and  then  turn  it  up  in  barrels, 
tying  at  every  tup-hole,  (by  a  packthread)  a  little  bag  of  beaten  cloves  and 
mace,  to  the  value  of  half  an  ounce.  It  must  then  stand  half  a  year  before 
drank.”  At  a  little  distance  is  Castell  Aher  Llienawg,  where  are  the  ves¬ 
tiges  of  a  small  ancient  fort,  behind^a  neat  farm-house,  near  the  beach.  It 
appears  to  have  been  fortified  by  a  circular  tower  at  each  angle,  with  a 
square  keep  in  the  centre.  The  whole  was  surrounded  by  a  deep  foss,  and 
a  hollow,  probably  once  a  covered  way,  extends  to  the  shore,  terminated  by 
large  artificial  mound,  upon  which  was  a  redoubt.  This  fortress  was 
founded  by  Hugh  Lupus,  Earl  of  Chester,  and  Hugh,  the  red-headed  Earl 
of  Shrewsbury,  in  IO98,  when  they  combined  against  the  Welsh,  attacked 
Anglesea,  overran  the  island,  and  committed  on  the  poor  inhabitants  the 
most  ferocious  barbarities.  Penmon  Priory,  1  m.  n.e.  of  the  former,  near 
the  sea,  was  founded  by  Mael  gwyn  Gwynedd,  in  the  6th  century,  who  was 
king  of  Wales.  He  left  legacies  to  many  religious  houses.  Previous  to 
the  year  1221  Llywelyn  ap  Jorwerth  subjected  it  to  new  regulations.  In 
the  6'th  of  Elizabeth  it  was  granted  to  Mr.  John  More.  {JDugdale^ s  Monast.. 
ii.  338.)  Under  the  refectory,  appears  to  have  been  cells,  and  over  it  a 
dormitory  ;  the  conventual  church  is  used  for  parochial  service,  which  with 
the  present  mansion-house,  and  ruinous  refectory,  constituted  one  connected 
building,  forming  three  sides  of  a  square  court,  open  to  the  e.  The  walls  are 
in  some  places  6  feet  thick.  The  interior  of  the  church  exhibits  a  rich 
fund  for  antiquarian  conjecture.  The  shape  appears  to  have  been  cruci¬ 
form,  but  the  N.  transept  is  in  ruins.  The  square  tower  in  the  centre  rests 
upon  4  circular  arches,  having  treble  zigzag  and  billeted  mouldings,  sup¬ 
ported  by  small  round  columns,  with  plain  plinths,  and  simple  capitals. 
Some  parts  of  this  structure  exhibit  the  character  of  the  7th  century,  and 
others  the  style  attributed  to  the  Saxons.  The  monuments  bear  the  names 
of  Hugh  Hughes,  of  Lleininog,  who  died  Feb.  I9.  1765  ;  Sir  Thomas 
Wilsford,  of  Ildinge,  Kent,  knight,  who  died  Jan.  25.  1645  ;  and  was 
father  to  the  lady  who  married  Sir  Richard  Bulkeley.  In  the  lower  part 
of  the  church  is  a  curious  benetier,  now  used  as  a  font. 

Near  this  place  is  a  Fynnon-vair,  or  holy  well,  surrounded  by  a  wall,  and 
stone  seats,  having  two  entrances.  Penmon  Park,  originally  belonged  to 
this  monastery,  but  is  now  the  property  of  Sir  R.  B.  W.  Bulkeley ;  it  is 
surrounded  by  a  lofty  stone  wall,  and  is  well  stocked  with  red  deer.  From 
a  lofty  limestone  ridge,  on  the  n.  side,  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Irish  sea,  and 
when  the  atmosphere  is  clear,  the  Isle  of  Man  is  visible.  At  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  to  the  s.  of  this  eminence,  in  the  centre  of  the  park,  stands  an  ancient 
curious  British  cross,  ornamented  with  numerous  tracings  in  relief.  Dis¬ 
tant  ^  m.  from  the  shore  is  Fnys  Seiriol  or  Puffin  Island,  now  called 
Priestholme,  from  being  formerly  visited  by  the  priests  of  Penmon  ;  holm  is 
the  Norse  for  island  ;  it  is  of  an  oval  shape,  about  1  m.  in  length,  and  A 
in  breadth.  The  land  consists  of  fine  turf.  Seiriol,  son  of  Owen  Danwyn 
ap  Einon  ab  Cunedda,  a  holy  recluse,  in  the  beginning  of  the  6th  century, 
here  erected  his  cell,  no  part  of  which  remains.  He  established  a  school 
at  Penmaen.  Near  the  centre  of  this  isle  is  an  old  square  tower,  supposed 
to  be  the  fragment  of  a  religious  house,  subordinate  to  the  priory  of  Pen¬ 
mon.  Prince  Owen  Gwynnedd,  the  founder  of  the  monastery,  and  those 
of  Penmon,  Holyhead,  and  Bangor,  a  contemporary  of  King  Arthur,  lies 
here.  The  island  is  the  property  of  Sir  R.  B.  W.  Bulkeley,  Bart.  There 
are  on  this  spot  a  few  sheep  and  a  numerous  colony  of  rabbits.  During 
the  summer,  it  swarms  with  various  birds  of  passage,  peregrine  falcons, 


BEAUMARIS* 


75 

cormorants_,  razor-bills,  guillemots,  oyster-catchers,  stormy  peterils,  divers, 
terns,  curlews,  gulls,  &c.  From  the  beginning  of  April  to  the  beginning 
of  August,  it  is  inhabited  by  an  immense  number  of  the  Alcae  Arcticse,  or 
puffin-auk.  If  a  boat  be  engaged  at  Beaumaris  to  visit  Priestholme,  on 
quitting  the  island,  the  place  is  pointed  out  where  it  is  said  Helig  Voel  ah 
Glanog,  a  chieftain  of  the  6th  century,  had  great  possessions,  which  were 
suddenly  overwhelmed  by  the  sea.  At  low  ebbs  ruins  are  yet  to  be  traced, 
and  a  causeway  pointing  from  Priestholme  to  Penmaenmawr  is  very  discern- 
able.  It  seems  about  9  feet  wide,  well  constructed  of  large  massive  stones. 

Mr.  Pugh  visited  Gorslwyd,  in  the  parish  of  Llandonna,  to  see  Jane 
Williams,  alias  Slane  Bwt.  Her  height  was  44  inches,  and  her  age,  when 
he  visited  her,  was  40.  Mr.  Pugh  has  given  in  his  “  Cambria  Depicta,"’ 
a  full  length  portrait  of  poor  Jane.  Her  father,  who  had  been  dead  some 
years,  was  of  less  stature  than  the  daughter ;  and  it  is  said,  that  when 
bringing  home  a  load  of  fuel  from  the  common,  strangers  were  often 
puzzled  to  make  out  so  strange  a  sight  as  a  moving  stack  of  fern,  without 
the  appearance  of  any  living  creature  to  convey  it.  The  cot  stands  exactly 
on  the  lower  road  from  Beaumaris  to  Amlwch  over  the  Red  Wharf  sands. 
The  limestone  quarry  upon  the  shore,  is  very  extensive ;  its  side  resembles 
a  wall  of  great  elevation.  Crossing  another  small  bay,  reach  a  public- 
house  at  Penllech. 

Near  Llan-Dudno  is  a  precipitous  isolated  hill,  called  Bwrdd  Arthur,  or 
Arthur’s  Round  Table,  on  which  are  the  vestiges  of  an  ancient  fortification, 
Dinas  Sylwi,  “  the  exploratory  fort.”  It  is  encompassed  by  a  deep  foss, 
between  two  lofty  valla,  formed  of  rude  stone,  and  in  the  area  are  the 
foundations  of  oval  buildings.  This  eminence  is  well  worth  the  trouble  of 
ascending.  The  prospect  consists,  according  to  Mr.  Pennant,  of  an  in¬ 
termixture  of  sea,  rock,  and  alps,  most  savagely  great.”  The  Menai,  appear¬ 
ing  encircled  by  the  two  shores,  assumes  the  form  of  a  magnificent  lake, 
with  the  town  of  Beaumaris  upon  its  margin.  On  the  r.  appear  the  un¬ 
broken  undulations  of  Anglesea,  and  on  the  1.  Snowdon  and  attendant  moun¬ 
tains  ;  the  reverse  is  occupied  by  the  ocean. 

In  a  deep  gully,  leading  from  Llanddona  church  to  the  sea,  near  the  shore, 
are  two  circular  mounts,  conjectured  to  have  been  raised  by  the  Hanes,  to 
protect  their  shipping  in  Red  Wharf  Bay.  In  this  vicinity  i^Nant-y-dienyz, 

the  chasm  of  destruction;”  generally  considered  the  British  Tarpeian 
rock.  Near  this  place  is  Llanjihangel  Din  Sylwi;  and  2  m.  further  IJan- 
iestyn,  a  church  dedicated  to  a  saint  of  the  fifth  century,  son  of  Geraint  ab 
Erbin,  who  was  slain  by  the  Saxons  at  the  siege  of  London.  This  sacred 
edifice  contains  a  tomb  of  curious  workmanship,  supposed  to  be  that  of 
lestyn,  its  tutelar  saint.  Some  antiquarians  think  the  letters  which  appear 
upon  a  scroll  were  inscribed  long  subsequent  to  his  decease.  The  inscrip¬ 
tion,  as  copied  by  the  Hon.  Haines  Barrington,  and  quoted  by  Mr.  Pennant, 
is,  Hie  jacet  santtus  Yestiinus  cui  Gwenllian,  filia  Madoc  et  GryfFyt  ap 
Gwilym  optulit  in  oblactem  istam  imaginem  p.  salute  animarumo.”  Yet  the 
editor  of  Rowland’s  Mona  Antiqua”  says  that  no  such  memorial  can  now 
be  found  upon  the  stone.  The  inscription  being  almost  illegible,  it  is  not 
in  the  power  of  ordinary  observers  to  determine  such  a  grave  dispute. 

Traeth-coch,  or  Red  Wharf,  distant  2  m.,  is  a  large  bay,  running  into 
the  land,  and  receiving  the  waters  of  the  small  river  Torryd.  It  is  pass¬ 
able  at  low  water,  being  covered  with  firm  sand.  A  large  portion  of  small 
shells  are  gathered  upon  the  w.  side,  and  used  for  manuring  the  land  in 
many  parts  of  the  island.  The  w.  horn  of  the  bay  forms  a  small  cape,  or 
promontory,  called  Castell-in-Awr.  This,  and  adjacent  cliffs,  are  composed 


BEAUMARIS. 


76 


of  calcareous  strata,  and  numerous  vessels  on  the  coast  are  employed  to 
carry  limestone  into  the  different  parts  of  Wales.  There  is  here  an  old  and 
new  quay. 

Pentraeth  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  head  of  the  sands.  Its  church  is 
small,  but  neat.  It  was  completely  repaired  in  1821,  and  is  surrounded  by 
ash  and  sycamore  trees.  The  Pantons  have  here  their  place  of  interment. 

Plds-Gwyn,  the  seat  of  the  late  Paul  Pan  ton.  Esq.,  lies  at  a  short  distance. 
In  the  valuable  library  of  this  mansion  are  ninety-one  volumes  of  MSS., 
chiefly  Welsh.  From  this  gentleman  the  intelhgent  traveller  always  met 
with  a  communicative  obligingness.  Lloyd  says,  to  the  lovers  of  British 
literature  the  name  of  Panton  will  ever  be  dear.” 

The  coast  between  Traeth-coch  and  Moelvra  Point  produces  several  kinds 
of  excellent  black,  grey,  and  mottled  brown  marbles ;  these  are  manufactured 
into  monuments,  and  ornaments  for  architectural  decoration. 

Llanvair-Mathavarn-eithav,  celebrated  for  its  black,  grey,  and  variegated 
marbles,  gave  birth,  in  1722,  to  that  brilliant  star  in  the  Cambrian  hemi¬ 
sphere,  Goronw  Owen.  His  father  was  a  husbandman,  attentive  to  the 
mere  wants  of  nature,  and  unmindful  of  giving  his  children  any  education. 
Goronw,  however,  imbibed  a  spirit  of  inquiry,  and  an  ardour  of  research, 
which  could  not  be  suppressed.  He  went  to  school,  first  by  stealth,  and 
was  continued  there  by  the  influence  of  his  mother.  At  the  age  of  fifteen 
he  became  qualified  as  an  assistant  in  a  grammar-school  at  Pwllheli. 
Through  the  munificence  of  Mr.  Edward  Wynne  of  Bod  Ewryd,  he  thence 
removed  to  Oxford.  After  graduating  there,  he  took  orders,  and  was  ap¬ 
pointed  by  the  Bishop  of  Bangor  to  his  curacy  of  Llanvair.  Stationed  at 
his  native  place,  his  happiness  was  complete ;  but  it  was  of  short  duration ; 
the  bishop  removed  him  to  make  way  for  a  particular  friend.  Necessity 
compelled  Goronw  to  accept  the  curacy  of  Oswestry  in  Shropshire.  He 
married,  and  his  stipend  proved  inadequate  to  the  support  of  a  family.  He 
removed  to  Donnington,  where  he  assisted  in  a  school,  and  served  an  ad¬ 
jacent  church  for  26/.  per  annum.  After  an  endurance  of  five  years’  genteel 
wretchedness,  he  somewhat  ameliorated  his  condition  by  accepting  the 
curacy  of  Walton  in  Cheshire.  Indigence,  however,  still  harassed  his 
mind,  and  he  then  removed  to  London,  but  was  unable  to  meet  with  any 
support  superior  to  that  produced  by  the  curacy  of  North-holt,  in  Middlesex. 
Worn  out  with  unavailing  hopes  of  obtaining  some  preferment,  he  emi¬ 
grated  to  Williamsburg,  in  Virginia,  where  he  probably  died.  To  a  perfect 
acquaintance  with  Latin  and  Greek,  Goronw  added  a  knowledge  of  the 
Oriental  languages ;  he  was  also  a  good  antiquarian,  and  a  favorite  child  of 
Apollo.  His  works  were  comprised  in  “  Diddanwch  Teuluaidd,”  now 
become  scarce.  His  Search  after  Happiness”  and  Day  of  Judgment” 
are  said  to  be  unrivalled.  A  subscription  was  recently  formed  to  honour 
his  memory  by  a  monument.  How  painful  the  reflection,  that  the  same 
liberality,  in  the  last  generation,  was  not  elicited  before  his  death  !  In  the 
churchyard  is  a  modern  carnedd.  Beneath  the  heap  of  stones  is  a  hollow 
cavern,  the  entrance  guarded,  according  to  the  ancient  British  and  Jewish 
customs,  by  a  large  stone.  The  sepulchre  was  erected  by  a  Mr.  Wynne. 

Pass  Llaneigrad  on  the  1.  and  Llanallgo  on  the  r.  1  m.  further  on  the 
1.  Penrhos-Dulas.  On  the  r.  Plds-Dulas,  1  m. 

Reach  Bodavon  Mountain^  in  the  summit  of  which  is  a  cavity  resembling 
that  of  Parys  Mountain.  Upon  the  high  peak  next  the  sea  is  a  beacon, 
with  a  stationary  guard.  At  the  village  of  Bodavon,  the  Rev.  Richard 
Williams  was  in  possession  of  an  ancient  bed  of  the  Tudors,  beautifully 
carved.  .  Llanelian,  2  m.  Amlwch,  1-^-  m. 


BEAUMARIS. 


77 

To  Bangor.  A  delightful  walk  conducts  us  to  that  ancient  city.  A 
new  line  of  road  to  Bangor  Ferry  was  constructed_,  in  1805,  by  Lord 
Bulkeley,  passing  through  the  woods  and  plantations  of  Baron  Hill,  at  a 
considerable  elevation  above  the  shores  of  the  Menai ;  it  continues  for 
nearly  5  m.,  and  forms  one  of  the  most  picturesque  drives  in  the  Princi¬ 
pality.  This  line  has  been  extended  to  the  Menai  Bridge  at  one  extremity, 
and  connected  at  the  other  with  a  new  entrance  into  Beaumaris. 

While  at  Beaumaris,  travellers  frequently  make  excursions  to  Penmorif 
and  to  Priestholme.  The  former  is  situated  near  the  entrance  of  the  bay, 
near  the  shore,  in  a  pretty  sequestered  spot,  where  a  venerable  church,  and 
a  ruin  behind  a  cluster  of  trees,  claim  attention.  A  monastery  was  founded 
here  by  St.  Seiriol,  in  the  sixth  century,  in  conjunction  with  St.  Cadfan, 
under  the  auspices  of  Maelgwyn  Gwynedd.  The  remains  of  Penmon  con¬ 
sist  of  the  church  and  refectory.  The  latter  has  been  divided  into  three 
stories ;  the  walls  are  six  feet  in  thickness.  The  church  was  originally  in 
the  form  of  a  cross,  but  the  n.  transept  has  been  destroyed,  and  there  are 
now  three  wings,  of  unequal  height,  attached  to  a  tower,  the  largest  of 
which  is  a  farm-house.  The  choir  is  still  in  use,  and  all  its  antiquity  has 
been  smoothed  over  by  modern  alterations.  The  other  divisons  of  the  build¬ 
ing  have  not  suffered  in  this  way.  Those  parts  which  are  entire  consist  of 
good  specimens  of  unmixed  Saxon  architecture.  The  tower  rests  upon  four 
semicircular  arches,  three  of  which  are  much  defaced  and  mutilated.  The 
remaining  columns  are  small  and  irregular ;  one  is  round  and  plain,  another 
round  and  fluted,  and  one  quadrangular,  with  simple  bases  and  capitals. 
The  faces  of  all  the  arches  have  zigzag  mouldings.  The  nave  has  no  side 
aisles,  and  is  reduced  to  a  mere  shell.  The  windows  are  blocked  up  except 
two,  which  are  round-headed,  widen  inward,  and  admit  light  only  by  a  nar¬ 
row  slip.  The  remaining  transept  is  a  very  small  square  building,  its  walls 
ornamented  on  all  sides  by  ranges  of  small  round  arches,  springing  from 
plain  and  fluted  pilasters.  Adjoining  is  a  holy  well.  A  small  temple  is 
raised  over  it.  A  square  space,  inclosed  by  a  wall,  paved  and  seated  all 
round,  forms  a  vestibule. 

A  society,  supported  by  subscription,  has  been  established  in  this  county, 
for  providing  the  best  boats,  and  other  means  of  saving  life,  and  for  re¬ 
warding  those  who  signalise  themselves  in  saving  their  fellow-creatures. 
It  first  came  into  operation  in  1829?  s^nd  up  to  the  present  time  there  have 
been  saved,  on  the  shores  of  this  county  alone,  by  the  boats  or  other  means 
of  the  Institution,  148  human  beings  from  the  terrors  of  instant  death  by 
shipwreck.  The  Penmon  life-boat  was  placed  on  that  station  in  1831, 
which  has  been  instrumental  in  saving  42  lives  ;  and  of  these,  Owen 
Roberts  had  been  concerned  in  rescuing  26.  Sir  Richard  Bulkeley  lately 
presented  to  this  skilful,  cool,  and  intrepid  individual  a  beautiful  silver 
medal,  awarded  by  the  Institution  for  the  Preservation  of  Life  from 
Shipwreck,”  for  his  gallant  services  on  many  occasions  in  the  Penmon 
life-boat ;  but  more  particularly  in  saving  the  crew  and  passenger  of  a 
sloop  on  her  beam  ends,  5  m.  n.  e.  of  Puffin  Island,  on  which  occasion 
the  life-boat  was  eight  hours  before  it  reached  the  shore,  buffeting  the  bil¬ 
lows  of  a  dreadful  night  in  total  darkness.  While  others  are  proud  of 
their  medals  bestowed  for  destroying  the  lives  of  human  beings,  well  may 
Owen  Roberts  be  proud  of  this  honourable  reward  for  saving  his  fellow- 
creatures  ! 

Priestholme,  now  a  telegraphic  station,  lies  4  m.  n.  e.  of  the  Beaumaris. 
A  dangerous  shoal,  called  the  Causeway,  occupies  the  greater  part  of  the 
Sound,  but  there  is  a  narrow  channel  through  it,  8  fathoms  deep,  forming 


78 


BEDDGELART. 


the  only  entrance  from  the  n.^  for  large  vessels^  into  Beaumaris  Bay.  There 
is  another  passage  between  the  outer  coast  of  the  island  and  the  edge  of 
the  Lavan  Sands^  but  navigable  only  for  very  small  vessels.  Priestholme  is 
about  1  m.  in  length  and  ^  m.  broad,  bounded  on  three  sides  by  inac¬ 
cessible  precipices,  and  on  the  fourth  by  a  steep  bank.  It  is  composed 
entirely  of  limestone.  The  only  erection  upon  it  is  an  old  square  tower 
crowned  with  a  low  spire,  with  heaps  of  stones  and  rubbish.  Human 
bones  are  scattered  in  various  parts. 

About  3  m.  s.  of  Beaumaris,  is  Garth  Ferry.  The  road  is  continued  to 
Porth-aethwy  ;  but  s.  of  Garth  Ferry  the  cliff  is  bare,  and  an  uninterrupted 
view  of  all  the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  bay  is  presented.  This  is  one  of 
the  finest  terraces  in  the  world.  The  road  was  cut  at  the  expense  of  Lord 
Bulkeley.  The  Menai  at  Garth  Ferry  becomes  suddenly  contracted  to 
\  m.  in  breadth.  Crossing  here,  a  walk  of  \  m.  from  the  landing-place 
leads  us  to  the  small  but  attractive  city  of  Bangor. 


Across  the  sands  to  Aber,  4  miles. 

To  Llaneliaii,  16  miles.  Pennant. 

Back  to  Caernarvon,  30  miles.  Bingley. 

To  Amlwch,  17  miles.  Warner  ;  Pugh. 

Back  to  Bangor  Ferry-house  Qsee  Bangor],  thence 


to  Conway,  over  Penmaenmawr,  14  miles. 
Wyndham. 

To  Caernarvon,  14  miles.  Skrine. 

Snowdon,  12  miles.  Gilpin. 

Back  to  Bangor  Ferry-house,  thence  to  Bangor, 
li  mile.  Pugh. 


BEDDGELART. 


From  Caernarvon,  by  way  of  Nant  Mill,  Llyn 
Avellyn,  Llyn-y-Dwarchen,  Llyn-y- 
Gader,  Llanfihangel,  Llan  Llyfni,  Cly- 
nog,  Nevyn,  Llanbadrig,  Pwllheli,  Cric- 
caeth,  Pont  Aberglaslyn.  Pugh. 


From  Caernarvon,  13  miles.  Bingle}'. 

Snowdon,  6 miles.  Pennant;  Aikin. 
Tan-y-Bwlch,  9  m.  Wyndham  ;  Evans  ; 
Warner. 

Maentwrog,  miles. 


BEDDGELART  is  a  very  extensive  parish  of  Caernarvonshire;  the  village 
is  situated  in  a  beautiful  tract  of  meadows,  at  the  junction  of  three  vales, 
near  the  conflux  of  the  Glas-llyn,  or  Nan t-hwy nant,  and  the  Colwyn, 
flowing  through  a  vale  which  leads  to  Caernarvon,  called  Llan-y-bor,  and 
contains  777  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  an  extensive  moun¬ 
tainous  district.  Its  scenery  is  romantic,  grand,  and  magnificent,  richly 
diversified  with  lofty  mountains  of  various  elevation  and  character,  luxuriant 
vales,  expansive  lakes,  woods,  groves,  and  plantations  of  richest  verdure. 

The  Church  was  anciently  spacious,  and  is  the  loftiest  in  Snowdonia.  The 
east  window  is  lancet-shaped,  and  consists  of  three  narrow  lights.  The  roof  is 
neat ;  and  there  yet  remains  some  fretwork.  A  side-chapel  is  supported  by 
two  pillars  and  Gothic  arches.  This  church  has  been  conventual,  belonging 
to  a  priory  of  Augustines.  They  were  probably  of  the  class  called  Gilbertines, 
consisting  of  both  men  and  women,  living  under  the  same  roof,  but 
divided  by  a  wall,  as  a  piece  of  ground  near  the  church  is  called  D61-y- 
Llein  (the  meadow  of  the  nun).  No  remnant  of  the  priory,  however, 
exists.  The  ground  on  the  s.  side  of  the  church,  seems  to  be  the  site  of 
the  buildings  formerly  inhabited  by  the  monks.  There  are  two  or  three 
arched  doors  on  that  side  the  edifice,  through  which  probably  the  religious 
entered.  The  ancient  mansion  near  the  church  may  have  been  the 
residence  of  the  prior.  In  this  house  is  shown  an  old  pewter  mug,  holding 
upwards  of  two  quarts.  Any  person  able  to  grasp  it  with  one  hand,  while 
full  of  ale,  and  to  drink  it  off  at  one  draught,  is  entitled  to  the  liquor  gratis, 
and  the  tenant  charges  it  to  the  lord  of  the  manor  as  part  of  payment  of 
his  rent.  n.  e.  from  the  village  runs  Nant-Gwynedd.  Tradition  says, 
that  Llywelyn  ap  Jorwerth  came  to  reside  at  Beddgelart  during  the  hunting 


BEDDGELART. 


79 

season  with,  his  wife  and  children,  and  that  one  day,  the  family  being 
absent,  a  wolf  entered  the  house.  On  returning,  his  greyhound,  delighted 
to  meet  his  master,  met  him,  but  covered  with  blood.  The  prince,  alarmed, 
ran  into  the  nursery,  found  the  cradle  in  which  his  infant  had  lain  over¬ 
turned,  and  the  ground  covered  with  blood.  Imagining  the  greyhound  had 
committed  the  fatal  deed,  in  a  transport  of  rage  he  immediately  drew  his 
sword  and  plunged  it  into  the  body  of  his  favourite,  but  on  turning  up  the 
cradle,  he  found  under  it  the  child  alive,  and  by  his  side  a  monstrous  dead 
wolf.  This  so  affected  the  prince,  that  he  erected  a  tomb  over  the  faithful 
Ciliart’s  grave ;  the  parish  church  was  built  on  the  spot,  and  called  from  this 
distressing  circumstance  Bedd-Cilihart,  or  the  grave  of  Cilihart.  On  the 
borders  of  a  principal  lake  in  this  neighbourhood,  are  the  ruins  of  Nant- 
Hwynen  Chapel.  ^  m.  on  the  road  to  Capel  Curig,  behind  the  old  public- 
house  opposite,  is  an  interesting  view,  consisting  of  a  solemn  dell,  rugged 
with  rock  and  rude  excrescences.  The  eye,  surveying  this  scene,  is  relieved 
occasionally  by  spots  of  verdure,  patches  of  heath,  thinly  scattered  sheep, 
and  the  beautiful  curvature  of  the  mountain.  In  the  Welsh  annals  this 
region  is  styled  the  forest  of  Snowdon.  It  is  a  subject  of  great  regret  to 
most  tourists,  that  many  of  the  rocks  which  surround  Beddgelart,  though 
once  covered  with  oaks,  are  now  naked.  Snowdonia,  though  formerly  a 
forest,  contains  now  scarcely  a  tree.  One  proprietor,  however,  has  raised 
new  plantations  upon  his  estate. 

Besides  the  old  inn,  there  is  the  comfortable  Beddgelart  Hotel.  It  is 
distinguished  by  the  emblem  of  the  Goat,  with  the  following  appropriate 
motto  :  Patria  mea  petra,”  my  country  is  a  rock.  The  guide  to  the 

mountains  was  Richard  Edwards,  a  resident  in  the  village.  The  new 
inn,”  says  Pugh,  ‘^is  the  most  fashionable,  but  I  preferred  the  old  one, 
that  I  might  enjoy  a  quiet  undisturbed  hour,  which  an  artist  knows  how 
to  appreciate.  The  accommodations  were  good,  with  civil  attention,”  A 
mail  coach  runs  daily  through  this  place  and  Capel-Curig.  William  Lloyd, 
the  schoolmaster  of  this  place,  was  long  noted  as  an  intelligent  conductor 
to  Snowdon,  Moel-Hebog,  Dinas-Emrys,  Llanberis  Pass,  the  lakes,  water¬ 
falls,  &c. ;  he  was  also  a  collector  of  crystals,  fossils,  and  natural  curiosities. 
Grace  Lloyd  continued  to  sell  the  mineral  productions  of  Snowdonia. 

Opposite  to  the  village  of  Beddgelart  is  Moel-Hehog,  the  hill  of  flight, 
which  Lord  Lyttelton  ascended.  [See  Festiniog.]  In  a  bog  near  that 
mountain  was  found,  in  1784,  a  most  curious  brass  shield  ;  it  was  deposited 
with  Mr.  Williams  of  Llannidan,  and  its  diameter  was  2  ft.  2  in.,  the 
weight  4  lb.  In  the  centre  was  a  plain  umbo  projecting  above  2  in.  ;  the 
surface  was  marked  with  27  smooth  concentric  circles  in  relievo  ;  and 
between  each  a  depressed  space  of  the  same  breadth  as  the  elevated  parts, 
marked  by  a  single  row  of  smooth  studs.  The  whole  shield  was  flat  and 
very  flexible.  This  was  probably  Roman,  for  the  Welsh  despised  every 
species  of  defensive  armour. 

Mr.  Assheton  Smith  had  about  2000  oak  trees  growing  in  a  very  high 
situation  at  Talmignedd,  near  Beddgelart,  intermixed  with  birch. 

Plants. —  Ruppia  maritima,  in  ditches  between  Traeth-mawr  and  Pont- 
Aberglaslyn.  Fumaria  claviculata,  under  the  walls,  near  a  farm-house  in 
Gwynant,  at  the  entrance  of  Cwm-llan.  Lathyrus  palustris,  moist  pastures. 
This  neighbourhood  produces  beautiful  quartz  crystals  of  a  clear  diamond¬ 
like  transparency,  in  the  form  of  a  regular  hexagonal  prism. 

To  THE  SUMMIT  OF  Snowdon,  Mr.  Pennant  passed  from  Beddgelart 
through  Nant  Gwynant,  by  far  the  most  beautiful  of  the  vales  among  these 
mountains.  It  is  about  6  m.  long,  affording  a  great  variety  of  wood,  lakes. 


80 


BEDDGELART. 


and  meadows.  That  of  Llanberis  is  the  only  one  which  may  be  said  to 
rival  it ;  but  their  characters  are  so  difFerent_,  that  they  cannot  with  pro¬ 
priety  be  compared.  On  the  r.^  about  1-|-  m.  up  the  valley,  is  a  lofty,  iso¬ 
lated,  wood-clad  rock,  called  Dinas-Emrys,  the  fort  of  Amhrosius,  or 
Merlin  Emrys,  a  magician  who  was  summoned  to  this  place  from  Caer- 
Merddin,  i.e.  Carmarthen,  by  Vortigern,  king  of  Britain.  On  its  summit 
is  a  level  with  the  remains  of  a  square  fort ;  and  on  the  w.,  facing 
Beddgelart,  there  are  traces  of  a  long  wall.  It  stands  detached  from  other 
rocks,  appearing  at  a  distance  in  the  form  of  a  man’s  hat.  Adjoining 
to  Dinas-Emrys  is  a  stony  tract  called  Celli-  r-Eewinion  (the  cells  or 
groves  of  the  magicians).  In  the  next  field,  a  number  of  large  stones,  called 
Beddau-  r-Dewinion  (the  tombs  of  the  magicians).  It  was  to  this  inte¬ 
resting  spot  that  Vortigern,  in  the  agony  of  his  sad  soul,  retired,  when  he 
found  himself  despised  by  his  subjects,  and  unable  to  contend  longer  with 
the  treacherous  Saxons,  whom  he  had  introduced  into  his  kingdom.  This 
insular  rock  afforded  him  a  temporary  residence  till  he  removed  to  his 
final  retreat  in  Nant-Gwrtheyrn^  or  Vortigern  s  Valley,  not  far  from 
Nefyn,  in  the  Promontory  of  Llyn. 

In  a  charming  situation  is  a  pool  called  Llyn-y-Dinas,  the  pool  of  the 
fort.  Near  the  middle  of  this  valley,  close  to  the  south  side  of  Llyn- 
Gwynedd,  within  a  walled  yard,  are  the  ruins  of  Capel-nant-gwynedd.  There 
is  a  tradition,  that  Madog,  the  son  of  Prince  Ow^en  Gwynedd,  resided  in 
this  vale  for  some  time  before  he  left  his  country  for  Armorica.  The 
entrance  into  this  valley  from  Beddgelart  is  but  the  breadth  of  a  narrow 
rugged  road,  close  by  the  river’s  side,  in  which  there  is  nothing  inviting, 
hut  passing  on,  the  tourist  advances  upon  enchanted  ground.  There  he 
finds  extensive  meadows,  expanding  at  every  turn  of  rock,  smooth  as  a 
bowling-green ;  beautiful  lakes  and  meandering  rivers,  abounding  in  fish  ; 
mountains  towering  one  above  the  other  in  succession,  while  to  the  r. 
Snowdon  o’ertops  them  all,  appearing,  like  another  Atlas,  to  support  the 

spacious  firmament  on  high  !  ” 

Snowdon  consists  of  four  buttresses  ;  between  each  is  a  noble  cwm,  in 
three  of  which  are  one  or  more  lakes.  The  cymyz,  upon  the  e.  side  fronting 
Capel  Curig,  are  Cwm-Llyn-Glds  and  Cwm-Llyn-Llydaw. 

An  Excursion  to  the  Summit  of  Snowdon  from  Beddgelart  was  made 
by  the  ingenious  and  accomplished  Bingley,  who  says,  The  distance  to 
the  summit  of  Snowdon  hence  being  reckoned  not  less  than  6  m.,  and  a 
lady  being  one  of  the  party,  it  was  thought  best  for  her  to  ride  as  far  as 
she  could  without  danger,  and  for  the  rest  to  walk.  In  this  manner,  there¬ 
fore,  we  set  out,  beginning  our  mountain  journey  by  turning  to  the  r.  from 
the  Caernarvon  road,  at  the  distance  of  about  2^  m.  from  Beddgelart.  We 
left  the  horses  at  a  cottage  about  half  way  up,  whence  taking  a  bottle  of 
milk  to  mix  with  some  rum  we  had  brought  with  us,  we  continued  our 
route  over  a  series  of  pointed  and  craggy  rocks.  Stojiping  at  different 
times  to  rest,  we  enjoyed  to  the  utmost  the  prospects  which  by  degrees 
were  opening  around  us.  Caernarvon  and  the  Isle  of  Anglesea,  aided  by 
the  brightness  of  the  morning,  were  seen  to  great  advantage  ;  and  Llyn- 
Cwellyn  below  us,  shaded  by  the  vast  Mynydd-Mawr,  with  Castell  Cidwm 
at  its  foot,  appeared  extremely  beautiful.  On  ascending,  the  mountains, 
which  from  below  seemed  of  an  immense  height,  began  now  to  appear 
beneath  us  ;  the  lakes  and  valleys  became  more  exposed,  and  the  little  rills 
and  mountain  streams  by  degrees  were  all  visible  to  us,  like  silver  lines  inter¬ 
secting  the  hollows  around.  AVe  now  approached  a  most  tremendous  ridge, 
over  w'hich  we  had  to  pass,  called  Clawd  Coch,  the  red  ridge  or  rampart.” 


BEDDGELART. 


81 


This  narrow  pass,  not  more  than  10  or  12  feet  across,  and  200  or  300  yards 
in  length,  was  so  steep  that  the  eye  reached  on  each  side  down  the  whole 
extent  of  the  mountain.  And  I  am  firmly  persuaded  that,  in  some  parts 
of  it,  if  a  person  held  a  large  stone  in  each  hand,  and  let  them  both  fall  at 
once,  each  would  roll  above  a  ^  m.,  and  thus,  when  they  stopped,  be  more 
than  ^  m.  asunder.  The  lady  who  was  with  us  passed  this  ridge  without 
the  smallest  signs  of  fear  or  trepidation  !  In  the  hollow  on  the  1.  are  four 
small  pools  called  Llyn-Coch,  “  the  Red  Pool,”  in  which  are  some  prodigious 
trout,  upwards  of  5  lbs  weight;  Llyn-y-Nadroeddj  the  Adder’s  Pool;” 
Llyn-Gwds,  the  Blue  Pool;”  and  Llyn-Fynnon-y-Gwds,  the  Servant’s 
Pool.”  Soon  after  we  had  passed  Clawdd-Coch,  we  became  immersed  in  light 
clouds,  till  we  arrived  at  the  summit,  when  a  single  gleam  of  sunshine, 
which  lasted  but  for  a  moment,  presented  the  majestic  scenery  on  the  w. 
It,  however,  only  served  to  tantalise  us,  for  a  smart  gust  of  wind  obscured 
us  again  in  clouds.  We  now  sheltered  ourselves  from  the  cold  under  some 
of  the  projecting  rocks  near  the  top,  and  ate  our  dinners,  watching  with 
anxiety  the  dark  shades  in  the  clouds,  in  hopes  that  a  separation  might  take 
place,  and  we  might  again  be  delighted  with  a  sight  of  the  grandeur 
around  us.  We  did  not  wait  in  vain,  for  the  clouds  by  degrees  cleared 
away,  and  left  us  at  full  liberty  to  admire  the  numerous  beauties  in  this 
vast  expansive  scene.  The  steep  rock  of  Clogwyn-y-Garnedd,  the  dreadful 
precipices  of  which  are,  some  of  them  above  200  yards  in  perpendicular 
height,  and  the  whole  a  series  of  precipices,  was  an  object  which  first 
struck  my  companions  with  terror.  We  now  stood  on  a  point  which  com¬ 
manded  the  whole  dome  of  the  sky.  The  prospects  below,  each  of  which 
we  had  before  considered  separately  as  a  great  scene,  were  now  only  minia¬ 
ture  parts  of  the  immense  landscape.  We  had  around  us  such  a  numerous 
variety  of  mountains,  valleys,  lakes  and  streams,  each  receding  behind  the 
other,  and  bounded  only  by  the  far  distant  horizon,  that  the  eye  almost 
strained  itself  with  looking  upon  them.  These  majestic  prospects  were 
soon  shut  from  our  sight  by  the  gathering  clouds,  which  now  began  to 
close  in  much  heavier  than  they  had  done  before,  and  it  was  in  vain  that 
we  waited  nearly  an  hour  for  another  opening  ;  we  were,  therefore,  at 
length  obliged  to  descend,  despairing  of  being  gratified  any  more  with  these 
sublime  views.  Other  travellers  have  been  more  fortunate,  seeing  the  high 
mountains  in  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  to  the  n.  ;  Cader- Idris  to  the  s. ;  St. 
George’s  Channel  and  Ireland  to  the  w.  ;  Anglesey,  n.  w.  The  Isle  of 
Man  is  often  visible,  and  to  the  r.  the  shores  of  the  n.  of  England  and 
Scotland.  The  proximate  objects  which  arrest  attention  are  the  two 
Glyders,  Moel-Siabod,  and  beyond,  the  rocky  heights  above  Llanrwst,  with 
the  mountains  of  Merionethshire ;  to  the  s.  e.,  Moel-PIebog,  the  lakes  of 
Llanllyfni,  Ewelling,  and  the  summits  which  include  the  pass  of  Bettws-> 
Garmon  on  the  w.  We  again  pass  Clawdd-Coch,  and  soon  afterwards, 
turn  to  the  1.  descending  into  the  mountain  vale,  called  Cwm-Llan.  This 
vale  extends  towards  Snowdon,  the  summit  of  which  is  finely  visible  be¬ 
tween  intervening  mountains.  Trees  issuing  out  of  rocky  cliffs  relieve  the 
eye  from  dull  monotony,  and  a  neat  modern  mansion,  embosomed  in  woods, 
with  a  small  lawn  in  front,  forms  a  fine  terminus  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
lake.  The  mountains  here  converge,  but  soon  recede,  and,  by  following 
hence  the  course  of  a  stream,  we  are  introduced  to  another  lake,  called  Llyn 
Gwynant,  which  affords  sport  for  the  angler,  though  much  injured  by 
being  netted.  This  little  rivulet,  in  its  descent,  is  frequently  thrown  over 
low  rocks,  forming  small  but  sometimes  elegant  cascades.  After  a  two  houi  si’ 

Q 


82  BEDDGELART. 

walk  reach  the  pleasing  vale  of  NanUGwynant,  passing  Dinas  Emrys, 
where 

“  Mountains  huge  appear 
Emergent,  and  their  broad  bare  backs  upheave 
Into  the  clouds  ;  their  tops  ascend  the  sky.” 

The  road  to  Dolwyddelan  lies  under  the  skirts  of  Snowdon_,  along  a  valley 
to  the  N.  E.^  attending  the  course  of  the  same  river,  which  is  crossed  at 
Pont-Aberglaslyn.  A  little  way  from  Beddgelart  is  a  rude  alpine  bridge 
thrown  across  the  current  of  a  water-mill ;  this  and  a  neat  chapel  situated 
about  I  m.  lower  down  the  stream,  form  a  very  pleasing  view.  Proceeding 
2  m.  on  the  road,  an  immense  cataract  appears  on  the  1.  ;  bursting  out 
of  the  cloudy  side  of  a  steep  mountain,  and  precipitated  from  rock  to  rock, 
with  one  bound  it  falls  into  a  deep  gulf.  Further,  the  road  passes  by  the 
side  of  Llyn-y-dmas,  a  considerable  lake,  enclosed  by  huge  mountains, 
and  an  excellent  station  for  angling.  Boats  are  kept  here  for  those 
who  are  fond  of  that  sport.  At  the  distance  of  2  m.  another  lake  of 
somewhat  larger  dimensions  than  the  former  occurs,  the  shores  of  which 
are  well  wooded.  The  road  here  crosses  the  valley,  and  from  the  beginning 
of  its  ascent  for  above  1  m.,  it  consists  of  a  continued  series  of  rude  broken 
steps ;  they  are  very  narrow  and  winding,  ascending  the  steep  face  of  a 
craggy  mountain  which  overlooks  the  lake,  without  the  slightest  barrier, 
even  in  places  where  the  descent  is  exceedingly  abrupt;  yet  these  moun¬ 
tainous  stairs  are  ascended  and  descended  by  Welsh  horses  !  A  tract  of 
boggy  mountains,  bare  and  desolate,  is  next  to  be  passed ;  the  majestic 
forms  of  the  Snowdonian  mountains  are  all  which  can  render  this  dreary 
part  of  the  country  interesting.  6  m.  from  the  last  lake,  the  traveller 
will  undoubtedly  descry,  with  lively  emotions,  the  ruins  of  Dolwyddelan 
castle. 

Ascending  3  m.  on  the  road  from  Beddgelart  to  Caernarvon,  before  lake 
Cwellyn  is  approached,  upon  a  craggy  piece  of  rock  near  the  summit  of 
Snowdon,  on  the  r.,  below  a  narrow  ridge  opposite  the  side  near  w^hich  is  a 
lake,  are  cubic  pyritse,  found  under  the  feet  of  pillar-shaped  parts  of  the 
rock. 

A  road  from  the  lake  Cwellyn  has  heen  formed  for  the  transit  of  copper 
ore  on  sledges  ;  these  drawn  by  two  horses,  will  carry  6  cwt.  The  giant 
sons  of  Snowdon,  Moel-Elion  and  Castell  Cedwm,  arise  on  the  r.,  while 
the  waters  of  the  beautiful  Llyn-Cwelyn,  3  m.  in  length,  are  expanded  on 
the  1.;  it  was  anciently  called  Llyn-Tarddenni.  The  road  lies  close  to  its 
margin  on  the  e.  side.  This  lake,”  says  Mr.  Evans,  is  noted  for  a 
species  of  char,  Salmo  alpinus,  Linn.,  called  Torgoch,  or  Red-belly,  found 
formerly  in  Llyn- Peris,  and  in  some  of  the  lakes  of  Switzerland.  They 
seldom  wander  beyond  the  limits  of  the  lake.  In  the  frosts  and  rigours  of 
December,  they  sport  near  the  margin  of  the  pools  w^here  they  are  taken, 
but  in  the  heats  of  summer  confine  themselves  to  the  deep.  Whoever  has 
travelled  through  the  Grisons,  would,  from  the  great  similarity  of  the 
scenery,  conceive  he  had  been  wafted  by  magic  to  that  alpine  country. 
The  road  just  described  is  not  unlike  that  from  Grenoble  to  Susan.”  At 
the  upper  end  of  this  beautiful  lake,  stood  the  house  of  Cae-uwch-y-Llyn, 

the  Field  above  the  Lake,”  which,  by  contraction,  forms  Cwellyn.  This 
house  was  once  the  residence  of  the  Quellyns,  a  family  now  extinct,  wdio 
took  their  name  from  the  place.  At  the  s.  end  of  the  pool,  that  part  of 
Mynydd-mawr,  called  Castell  Cedwm,  the  wolf’s  castle,”  forms  a  bold 
and  very  striking  feature,  seeming  to  overhang  its  base.  The  ascent  from 
this  lake,  though  most  frequented,  is  in  some  places  very  boggy  and  wet. 


BEDDGELART.  83 

and  in  others  extremely  rocky  and  stony.  The  distance  is  the  same  as 
from  Dolbadern  castle. 

Another  ascent  begins  about  3  m.  on  the  Caernarvon  side  of  the 
Beddgelart  road^  but  is  extremely  steep^  and  the  ridge  Clawdd-Coch,  along 
which  you  must  ascend,  is  not  above  2  yards  wide  for  a  considerable  way. 
Upon  the  banks  of  Llyn-Cwellyn,  the  largest  of  the  lakes  on  the  road  from 
Beddgelart  to  Caernarvon,  is  a  small  public-house  kept  by  Mrs.  Morton, 
who  engages  to  supply  Guides  to  Snowdon.  Her  expectations  run  as  high 
as  '7s.  for  attending  a  single  person,  and  from  a  party  5s.  each.  The  guides 
from  Beddgelart  are  less  exorbitant.  She  has  the  command  of  three  small 
ponies,  for  which  she  conscientiously  charges  5s.  each.  Her  customary 
complement  is  half  a  guinea  more,  besides  the  expense  of  a  person  to  hold 
the  ponies,  when  the  steepness  renders  it  impossible  to  ride  any  farther, 
which  is  within  i  m.  of  the  top  of  the  mountain.  Having  never  ascended 
Snowdon  from  this  point,  I  have  not  had  occasion  to  put  Mrs.  Morton’s 
disposition  to  the  test;  but  I  have  derived  some  information  from  my  worthy 
friend  Mr.  Benjamin  Stokes  of  Worcester,  who,  in  the  year  1812,  in  com¬ 
pany  with  Mrs.  Stokes  and  three  gentlemen,  took  ponies  at  Caernarvon,  and, 
on  arriving  here,  engaged  the  guide.  No  corn  for  the  ponies  was  to  be  had 
nor  hay.  A  few  handfulls  of  grass  were,  however,  cut  for  them.  The  tra¬ 
vellers  were  accommodated  with  a  few  rashers  of  bacon,  bread,  and  some 
milk  and  water,  for  which,  besides  10^.  to  the  guide,  155.  were  rigorously 
demanded.  We  first  pass  along  some  meadows  which  extend  up  the  side 
of  Snowdon  for  about  ^  m.  Leaving  these  after  some  time,  reach  Bwlch- 
Cwm-Brwynog,  a  kind  of  fissure  betwixt  two  mountains,  which  overlook 
that  vale.  This  hollow  is  reckoned  half  way  to  the  summit,  and  equestrians 
usually  ride  thus  far,  leaving  their  horses  till  they  return.  Pass  Llyn- 
fynnon-y-Gwds,  the  Servant’s  Pool,”  so  named  from  the  servant  of  a 
farmer  who  was  drowned  there  as  he  was  washing  some  sheep.  The  Avon 
flows  into  this  lake.  The  road  then  lies  along  a  steep  ridge.  This  ascent 
is  much  more  rocky  and  tiresome  than  that  from  Dolbadarn.  The  route 
for  nearly  1  m.  extends  over  immense  masses  of  rock,  but  the  railway  to 
the  copper  mine  has  removed  this  obstacle.  Between  Llyn-y_Gader  and 
Llyn-Cwellyn,  the  traveller  may  deviate  to  the  1.  out  of  the  great  road,  to 
y'v&ii  Llyn-y-dywarchen^ox  ‘^Hhe  Lake  of  the  Sod,”  near  a  farm  called  Drws- 
y-Coed,  celebrated  by  the  romantic  Giraldus  Cambriensis,  for  its  Insula 
erratica,  or  wandering  island,  of  an  irregular  shape,  and  about  9  yards  long. 
It  was  a  piece  of  the  turbery,  undermined  by  the  water,  and  detached  from 
the  shore,  yet  rendered  compact  by  the  entangling  roots  which  form  that 
species  of  soil.  It  is  frequently  set  in  motion  by  the  wind,  and  again  joins 
its  native  banks.  Sheep  have  frequently  been  surprised  upon  it,  and  by  a 
contrary  gale,  carried  a  short  voyage  from  the  shore.”  There  are  two  islets 
of  this  description  in  Llyn-Mignan,  in  Merionethshire.  The  char  is 
found  in  Llyn-y-dywarchen  only  for  a  few  days  annually,  about  the  end  of 
December ;  trout,  however,  are  in  these  lakes  generally  abundant.  From 
Llyniau-Nantlle,  between  Llyn-y-dywarchen,  and  Llanllyfni,  Mr.  Wilson 
sketched  his  beautiful  view  of  Snowdon.  In  the  summer  of  the  year  1284, 
Edward  I.  resided  here  for  some  days,  at  Bala-den-lyn.  Proceeding  to  Caer¬ 
narvon  along  the  banks  of  Llyn-y-C welly n  is  a  fine  cascade  formed  by  the 
Fai  or  Gwyrfai-isav,  running  from  the  lake  into  a  valley  which  expands 
into  fine  meadows.  In  this  vale,  distant  from  Beddgelart  5^  m.  is  the 
picturesque  spot  of  Nant  Mill.  Various  are  the  descriptions  which  travel¬ 
lers  have  given  of  this  spot,  and  some  have  passed  it  as  almost  beneath  no¬ 
tice.  I  avail  myself,  however,  of  the  enthusiasm  of  Bucke,  and  let  those 

G  2 


84 


BEDDGELART. 


censure  it  who  have  the  inclination.  If  you  would  behold  one  of  those 
waterfalls  which  combine  sublimity  with  beauty,”  says  he,  visit  the  ad¬ 
mirable  instance  at  Nant  Mill.  Exercise  that  fascinating  art  of  which 
nature  and  practice  have  made  you  such  a  master ;  make  a  faithful  repre¬ 
sentation  of  it,  clothe  it  in  all  its  sublimity,  in  ail  its  grace  of  beauty,  and 
let  the  finest  imagination  in  the  world,  of  painting  or  of  poetry  tell  me,  if,  in 
all  the  fairy  visions  which  the  finest  fancy  has  created,  a  scene  more  perfect 
can  be  formed.  The  far-famed  cataract  in  the  Vale  of  Tempe  hasmothing  to 
compare  with  it.  In  surveying  this  scene  our  sensations^cannot  fail  to  resem¬ 
ble  those  of  the  celebrated  Bruce,  when  he  beheld  the  third  cataract  of  the 
Nile ;  a  sight,”  says  he,  so  magnificent,  that  ages,  added  to  the  greatest 
length  of  life,  could  never  eradicate  it  from  my  memory.” — Beauties,  S^c. 
of  Nature,  i.  58. 

On  the  r.  is  Plds-yn-y-Nant,  one  of  the  seats  of  Sir  Robert  Williams, 
Bart.,  seated  at  the  foot  of  Moel-Eiler,  or  Ael-y-Ia,  near  the  outlet  of  Llyn 
C welly n,  and  fronted  by  a  beetling  and  shaggy  rock  of  a  peculiar  character. 
The  accompaniments  are  the  mill  and  cascade  before  mentioned,  and  though 
the  latter  has  received  some  touches  from  art,  yet  they  appear  perfectly 
natural,  1^  m.  further  is  the  small  village  of  Bettws- Garmon.  The 
country  over  which  the  road  now  lies  is  a  succession  of  eminences  and  dips, 
undulating  in  a  happy  style ;  the  soil  is  rocky,  but  not  unproductive.  On 
the  1.  rises  a  very  picturesque  mountain,  at  some  distance,  near  the  sea- 
coast  ;  but  in  front  the  country  is  champaign  and  open  for  many  miles. 
The  high  grounds  in  Anglesea  begin  to  appear,  and  from  one  of  the  emi¬ 
nences  on  the  road  the  whole  island  lies  like  a  map,  while  the  elegant  towers 
of  Caernarvon  castle  sometimes  emerge,  and  sometimes  are  obscured  from 
the  sight.  Within  2  m.  of  Caernarvon,  on  the  r.,  is  Glangwnna,  Thomas 
Lloyd,  Esq.  About  1  m.  distant  from  Caernarvon  the  Bhythell  is  crossed, 
here  assuming  the  name  of  Seiont,  over  a  stone  bridge,  built  by  Harry 
Parry.  At  a  short  distance  stands  Llan  heblig. 

To  Maentwrog,  we  proceed  past  the  old  house  of  Hafodgarregog,  once 
the  residence  of  Rhys  goch  Eryri,  Rhys-ab-Dafydd,  bard  to  Owain  Glyawr, 
who  died  1420,  aged  120  years,  and  was  buried  at  Beddgelart.  A  stupend¬ 
ous  pass,  rival  to  that  near  Llanberis,  introduces  Pont-Abergldslyn.  On 
the  new  road,  upon  the  banks  of  the  river,  nothing  remarkable  occurs  till 
we  reach  a  precipice  called  Careg-Hill-Drem.  The  old  mountain  road, 
through  the  romantic  village  of  Llanfrothen,  is  uniformly  preferred  by 
artists,  which  affords  many  pleasing  vistas  of  the  sea,  &c.  A  precipitous 
wood-covered  road  leads  to  Tan-y-Bwlch,  where  is  an  excellent  hotel. 

Upon  THE  DIRECT  ROAD  to  Carnarvon  a  pleasing  vale  is  entered,  expand¬ 
ing  as  you  advance,  and  watered  by  the  river  Colwyn,  which  flows  from  a 
lake  called  Llyn-Cadair-yr-aur-frycMn.  Cadair  means  a  chair,  and  Aur- 
Frychin  a  wild  beast,  perhaps  a  buffalo.  The  tradition  is,  that  it  was 
hunted  up  the  hollow  from  Llanllyfni,  and  killed  near  this  pool.  On  the 
r.,  nearly  opposite  this  lake,  is  the  usual  ascent  from  Beddgelart  to  the 
summit  of  Snowdon,  4  m. 

Travellers  frequently  make  excursions  from  Beddgelart,  to  explore 
the  long  neck  of  land  which  forms  the  extreme  point  of  its  county,  and 
constitutes  one  horn  of  the  great  bay  of  Cardigan,  called  the  Promontory 
OF  Lleyn,  which  comprehends  all  that  flat  part  of  Caernarvonshire  extend¬ 
ing  from  Penmorva  n.  to  Llanllyfni,  and  stretching  thence  between  20  and 
80  m.  S.W.,  towards  Bardsey  Island.  It  is  generally  very  flat,  but  inter¬ 
spersed  with  most  characteristic  rocks  ;  none  of  which  are  so  conspicuous  as 
Carn~Madryn  and  Carn-Bodfan.  The  district  extending  from  these  hills 


BEDDGELAllT. 


85 


to  the  confines  of  Caernarvon,  formed,  in  the  ninth  century,  the  territories 
of  Cilmyn  droed  du,  nephew  to  Merfyn  Frych,  who  defeated  the  Saxons  at 
Llanfaes,  founder  of  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes.  Glynllifon,  his  seat,  con¬ 
tinued  to  be  that  of  his  descendants  till  of  late  years,  when  Frances,  daughter 
and  heiress  of  John  Glynn,  Esq.,  bestowed  it,  with  her  person,  on  Thomas 
Wynn,  Esq,,  of  Bodfuan,  ancestor  to  Lord  Newborough.  From  Cilmyn  is 
descended  Sir  Stephen  Glynn,  of  Hawarden,  Bart.,  the  Glynns  of  London 
and  Nanlle,  the  Lloyds  of  Maes-y-porth,  and  the  Hugheses  of  Bodrwyn. 
Mr.  Pugh  ascended  the  mountains  w.  of  the  village,  following  a  rough  foot¬ 
path,  whence  the  craggy  base  of  Snowdon  and  the  much  admired  pass  of 
Nant  Nanhwynen  are  seen  to  great  advantage.  From  the  summit  of  these 
hills  he  descended  into  a  dreary  valley,  and  passed  along  the  side  of  Llyn- 
cwm-strathlyn,  1  m,  in  length.  A  dull  walk  over  marshy  ground,  8  m, 
further,  introduces  Llanfihangel-y-Pennant,  a  little  village,  pent  up  in  an 
angle  formed  by  bold  cliffs,  and  remarkable  as  the  birthplace  of  the  erudite 
and  amiable  W.  Owen  Pughe,  D.C.L.  A  strong  current  rushes  from  the 
mountains  over  a  very  rough  bed.  The  savage  appearance  of  the  precipices 
and  the  massive  stones  near  the  river,  an  old  bridge,  a  small  church,  a  scat¬ 
tered  wood  and  a  few  rusticated  houses,  furnish  a  pleasing  and  varied 
scene.  This  village  affords  not  to  the  wanderer  any  home  in  the  form  of 
an  inn,  but  the  surrender  of  a  few  pence  at  a  farm-house  will  generally  pro¬ 
duce  an  ample  display  of  homely  fare.  Dolbenmaen,  1^-  m.,  is  a  neat 
hamlet,  where  the  clergyman’s  cottage,  contiguous  to  the  churchyard,  en¬ 
livens  this  wilderness. 

Llanllyfni,  6  m.  Several  artists  have  been  interrupted  at  this  village  on 
the  suspicion  of  being  spies,  which  generally  arises  from  an  ignorance  of 
the  Welsh  language.  The  lakes  near  this  village,  the  towering  rocks  on 
each  side,  with  Snowdon  in  the  background,  form  one  of  the  finest  objects 
in  the  country.  The  late  R.  Wilson,  R.A.,  chose  this  scene  for  the  subject 
of  one  of  the  finest  of  his  pictures.  Yr-Eifl,  a  tripartite  mountain  upon  the 
w.  shore,  sometimes  called  Rivals,  is  generally  a  leading  object  in  this 
excursion.  We  proceed  therefore  to  Clynnog,  4  m.,  frequently  looking  at 
Snowdon,  which  appears  majestically  towering  above  the  lakes  of  Nantlle. 
Some  exquisitely  fine  compositions  may  be  caught  upon  this  road. 

Clynnog  fawr  is  a  beautiful  village,  guarded  by  mountains  on  three 
sides,  and  the  sea  on  the  fourth  ;  shaded  by  trees,  and  situated  on  an 
excellent  turnpike-road,  midway  to  Pwlheli  from  Caernarvon.  It  was  once 
celebrated  as  the  residence  of  St.  Beuno,  who  was  descended  from  an  ancient 
family  in  Montgomeryshire,  but  assuming  a  monastic  habit  retired  to  this 
place,  where,  in  dl6,  he  built  a  church  and  monastery.  Of  the  abbey, 
some  of  the  foundations  only  remain.  The  conventual  Church  is  the  most 
magnificent  ecclesiastical  structure  in  N.  Wales,  built  in  the  cruciform  shape, 
and  pointed  style.  The  length  from  e.  to  w.  138  feet,  from  n.  to  s.  70. 
It  consists  of  a  chancel,  nave,  aisles,  and  transept,  with  a  handsome  square 
tower.  Near  the  altar  are  three  stalls  with  pointed  arches,  supported  by 
slender  columns.  An  altar  tomb  supports  two  recumbent  figures,  in  memory 
of  William  Glynne  de  Lleiar,  his  wife,  and  children.  Another  commemo¬ 
rates  his  son-in-law,  and  successor  to  the  demesne  of  Lleiar,  George 
Twisleton,  Esq.,  who  defeated  and  took  prisoner  in  the  civil  wars  that 
zealous  loyalist.  Sir  John  Owen,  in  l648.  In  the  s.e.  corner  of  the  church 
stands  an  old  oaken  chest,  belted  with  iron,  and  fixed  down  to  the  floor, 
called  EyfF-Beuno,”  Beuno’s  chest.  An  elongated  aperture  in  the  lid  is 
for  the  purpose  of  receiving  offerings.  These  alms  and  oblations  have 
ceased,  and  there  is  no  fund  to  preserve  this  venerable  pile  from  falling  into 

G  3 


86 


BEDDGELART. 


ruins.  Adjoining  the  church  is  a  mausoleum,  called  Eglwys  Beuno,  sup¬ 
posed  to  have  been  part  of  the  original  church ;  but  being  in  the  pointed 
style,  is  evidently  of  a  subsequent  date.  The  passage  leading  from  the 
grand  structure  to  this  is  a  narrow  vault,  covered  with  large  flat  stones, 
probably  the  only  remaining  part  of  the  original  building.  St.  Beuno  was 
buried  in  his  own  chapel,  and  an  altar-tomb,  lately  removed,  is  said  to  have 
been  his  place  of  interment.  He  is  the  reputed  uncle  of  St.  Winifred, 
whose  mutilated  effigy  still  remains  here.  One  hundred  yards  from  the  church, 
adjoining  the  turnpike-road,  is  St.  Beuno  s  well,  8  feet  square,  enclosed  by 
a  wall  8  feet  high.  The  place  is  now  exposed  to  ruin  and  the  vilest  filth. 
The  spring  has  been  suffered  to  grow  up,  so  that  it  now  contains  little 
water.  After  St.  Beuno’s  death  this  well  was  much  famed  for  healing  the 
sick,  and  particularly  for  curing  the  rickets  in  children.  The  inns  here  are 
comfortable,  and  the  charges  very  moderate.  The  fragments  of  the  tomb 
lie  a  confused  heap  upon  the  floor.  About  ^  m.  distant  is  an  unusually 
large  Cromlech^  in  a  field  near  the  sea,  belonging  to  a  tenement  called 
Bach  wen.  The  inclination  of  the  table-stone  dips  towards  the  w.  and  con¬ 
tains  upon  its  surface  several  hollow  holes ;  30  yards  distant  stands  a  single 
stone  pillar. 

Proceed  along  the  sea-shore  on  the  r.  for  5  m.  to  the  small  village  of 
Llanaethaiarn  dedicated  to  St.  Aethaiarn.  Its  whitewashed  church,  stationed 
upon  an  elevated  site,  becomes  a  useful  landmark  to  the  distant  mariner, 
and  the  Rhifel  or  Yr-Eifl  rocks,  with  forked  summits,  form  a  grand 
and  contrasting  background.  Near  the  church  is  a  fine  well,  once  much 
frequented  for  its  reputed  sanctity.  The  festival  is  held  on  the  1st  of  No¬ 
vember.  Upon  this  mountainous  ridge,  is  what  Mr.  Pennant  describes  as 
the  most  perfect  and  magnificent,  as  well  as  the  most  artfully  constructed 
British  post  he  ever  beheld.  It  is  called  Tre-yr-Caerau,  the  town  of 
fortresses.’’  Descended  from  this  mount  and  ascended  Moel-garn-guwch, 
a  conical  hill,  upon  the  summit  of  which  is  a  prodigious  heap  of  stones,  once 
a  large  tower,  called  by  the  country  people  Arffeddoged~y-Gowres,  or  the 
apron  full  of  stones,”  flung  down  by  the  giantess.  Mr.  Pennant  saw  from 
the  Eifl  several  other  lesser  eminences  fortified  in  a  similar  manner.  He 
mentions  also  Carn-Madyrn,  the  hill  of  Boduan,  above  Nefyn,  covered 
with  similar  cells  ;  Moel-hen-Tw7'cli,  between  Tre’r  Caeri,  and  Penmorfa  ; 
Castell-Gwgan,  remarkable  for  a  small  circular  in trenchment ;  Pen-y-Gaei', 
on  the  other  side  of  the  pass  which  leads  from  Arfon  to  Llyn  ;  all  these 
antiquities  make  it  probable  that  this  country  was  the  retreat  of  multitudes 
of  Britons,  to  escape  the  first  fury  of  the  Saxonso  Descended  to  the 
village  and  church  of  Llan-Aethaiarn  or  Llanhaiarn.  Near  it  is  a  fine 
well,  once  reputed  for  its  sanctity.  Continued  descending  :  on  the  right 
are  the  high  conical  hills  of  Gern-goch  and  Gern-ddu,  the  extremity  of  the 
long  chain  which  extends  obliquely  from  Snowdon,  beginning  at  Talmignedd. 
Ascend  the  bwlch  or  hollow,  which  separates  two  sugar-loaf  points  of  the 
mountains,  dividing  the  hundred  of  Llyn  from  Arfon,  across  which  extends 
an  immense  rampart  of  loose  stones,  the  ruins  of  a  wall,  once  forming  the 
defences  of  this  important  pass.  The  descent  is  into  the  flat  called  Nant- 
y-Gw7dheryrn,  or  Vortigerns  Valley.  It  was  to  this  spot  that  that  un¬ 
fortunate  monarch  fled  from  the  rage  of  his  insulted  and  injured  subjects. 
Imagination  could  not  form  a  more  secluded  retreat.  Embosomed  in  a 
lofty  mountain,  and  bounded  by  rocky  declivities,  it  has  only  one  opening, 
which  is  towards  the  sea.  A  verdant  mount  in  this  valley  is  said  to  have 
been  the  site  of  his  residence  ;  and  a  tumulus  covered  with  turf  is  de¬ 
nominated  Bedd-GwrtJieryrn/'  the  tomb  of  Vortigeni.  'NYhile  the  Rev. 


BEDDGELART. 


87 


Hugh  Roberts  was  minister  of  this  parish^  this  earn  was  dug  open  and  a 
stone  coffin  containing  the  bones  of  a  tall  man  was  found.  Quitting  the 
mountain,  and  passing  a  good  road  for  6  m.,  reach 

Nefyn,  a  small  town  in  the  hundred  of  Dinllaen,  containing  1726’ 
inhabitants.  Here  is  a  harbour  for  about  fifty  vessels  of  from  40  to  60 
tons,  employed  principally  in  carrying  slates  from  Caernarvon,  &c.  to  Liver¬ 
pool  and  other  places.  At  the  distance  of  1  m.  is  Ty-mawr,  and  adjoining  a 
stone  pillar  with  monastic  carving  upon  it.  Two  m.  above  the  town  is  a  house 
called  Pistyll,  near  which  are  some  grand  cliffs,  upon  the  sea-side,  containing 
considerable  caverns,  of  a  wild  and  savage  appearance.  Adjoining  the  town  is 
Mount- Pleasant,  where  the  inhabitants  assemble  to  view  the  sea  and  other 
objects.  This  mount  is  evidently  a  tumulus.  About  1^  m.  s.  from  Nefyn,  upon 
the  shore,  is  Porth-Dynllaen,  situated  near  a  fine  sandy  bay,  and  defended 
from  the  strong  w.  winds  by  a  narrow  headland,  with  its  promontory 
jutting  far  out  to  sea.  This  port  is  conjectured  to  have  been  frequented 
by  the  Romans  :  there  are  vestiges  of  strong  entrenchments  still  visible  in 
the  vicinity.  Some  time  since  a  scheme  was  formed  of  improving  this 
unfrequented  portion  of  the  country,  by  bringing  part  of  the  great  road 
from  London  to  Ireland,  through  it,  by  a  new  line,  from  Merionethshire 
'across  the  Traeth  mawr,  and  forming  this  port  the  rendezvous  for  the 
packet  vessels,  instead  of  Holyhead.  For  this  purpose  an  act  was  passed 
in  the  year  1806,  to  erect  a  pier  and  other  necessary  works,  and  incor¬ 
porating  a  company  for  raising  money,  collecting  rates,  &c. ;  but  on  a  sub¬ 
sequent  application  to  parliament  for  pecuniary  assistance,  a  denial  was 
given,  and  the  work,  in  consequence,  has  not  been  performed. 

A  proposition  has  been  recently  made  by  the  directors  of  the  Shrewsbury 
and  Wolverhampton  railway  to  connect  that  line  with  one  from  Porth 
Dynllaen  through  Tremadoc,  Barmouth,  and  Bala.  Hence  to  Barmouth, 
according  to  Mr.  Vignoles,  a  distance  of  37  m.,  will  require  only  an 
ordinary  railway  operation  being  for  the  most  part  over  favourable  ground. 
With  the  exceptions  of  a  short  tunnel  and  some  cutting  at  Barmouth,  and  the 
viaduct  near  Dolgelly,  the  railway  line  runs  for  nearly  18  m.  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground  to  Bala.  From  Bala  to  the  vicinity  of  Llangollen  the 
favourable  nature  of  the  line  is  admitted,  even  by  those  most  opposed,  to  be 
favourable.  This  brings  the  railway  nearly  80  m.  from  Porth  Dynllaen, 
of  which  distance  73  m.  presents  a  very  favourable  line,  and  for  70  m. 
the  levels  are  unobjectionable.  To  obtain  such  results,  a  few  great  works 
may  be  encountered  on  the  other  5  m.  of  the  road.  At  Llangollen  a 
canal  commences  which  proceeds  into  tbe  vales  of  Shropshire,  following  the 
course  of  the  streams  of  the  country  ;  therefore  no  difficulty  can  arise  in 
projecting  a  railway  through  the  same  district.  With  respect  to  the 
difference  of  4  m.  which  Porth  Dynllaen  is  further  from  Dublin  than 
Holyhead,  Captain  Beaufort,  R.N.  proves  that  owing  to  the  difference  of 
the  courses  between  the  two  parts  across  the  channel  to  Kingstown,  the 
most  prevalent  wind  (s.e.)  would  be  a  side  wind  both  ways  between  Porth 
Dynllaen  and  Dublin.  He  states  this  is  a  very  advantageous  circumstance, 
which  indeed  no  one  can  doubt,  and  the  value  of  which  in  such  gales  as 
we  have  recently  had,  can  be  well  appreciated.  An  influential  meeting  of 
landholders  and  other  gentlemen  in  furtherance  of  this  project,  was  held 
lately  at  Shrewsbury.  The  resolutions  were  moved  by  Lord  Clive,  Sir 
R.  Hill,  Bart.,  Rev.  R.  N.  Pemberton,  Col.  Wingfield,  &c.  (See  page  91.) 

A  new  road  leads  from  Pont  Aberglaslyn,  through  Penmorfa  and  Cruc- 
caith,  to  this  harbour.  There  are  no  public  accommodations  whatever  in 
this  remote  part  of  the  promontory.  It  is  therefore  necessary,  in  proceeding 

G  4 


88 


BEBDGELART. 


to  Bardsey  Isle^,  and  to  secure  some  retreats  in  gentlemen’s  houses.  To 
Edern,  1|-  m.  Proceeding  2  m.  on  the  r.  is  Bryn-Odol,  the  seat  of  J. 
WatkinSj  Esq,,  situated  upon  an  eminence,  commanding  a  most  extensive 
view  of  a  flat  woodless  tract  of  country,  hounded  on  one  side  by  a  range 
of  mountains.  Among  these,  Boduan  and  Carn-Madryn  rise  nobly  in  the 
foreground  ;  and,  beyond,  the  whole  Snowdonian  chain  ranges  in  majestic 
grandeur.  1  m.  s.  of  this  place  lies  Cefn-Amlwch,  an  ancient  seat,  the 
residence  of  C.  W.  G.  Wynne,  Esq.,  where  is  a  large  cromlech,  called 
Coeden- Arthur.  In  the  contiguous  parish  of  Llaniestin,  various  Roman 
urns,  at  different  times,  have  been  discovered.  JDydweiliog,  J  m.  Penllech, 
1^  m.  Llangwynodl,  1  m.  on  the  r.,  dedicated  to  Gwynodl  ab  Seithenyn. 
The  church  is  very  ancient ;  upon  a  column  is  the  following  inscription  :  — - 

J.  GWEN  HOEDL  JACET  HIC  '^50^ 

Upon  another  column, — 

nMG  iEDES  iEDIFICATA  EST,  A.  D.  M. 

The  churches  are  very  numerous  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Aberaeron,  5  m.  a  poor  village,  at  the  extremity  of  the  promontory  of 
Lleyn,  seated  upon  a  sandy  bay.  The  mouth  is  guarded  by  two  little 
islands,  called  Ynys-Gwylan  ;  these  form  a  secure  retreat  for  the  small 
craft  of  the  fishermen.  G.  C.  Wynne,  Esq.,  of  Cefn-Amlwch,  has  pre¬ 
sented  to  the  parishioners  ground  for  the  site  of  a  new  churchyard,  with  a 
promise  of  a  handsome  subscription.  The  small  rivulet  Daron  empties 
itself  here.  The  dilapidated  church,  some  miles  distant,  was  formerly 
much  resorted  to  by  pilgrims,  and  is  dedicated  to  Hywyn.  The  aisles  are 
separated  from  the  nave  by  handsome  lofty  columns.  Near  this  spot  is  a 
small  circular  encampment,  about  50  yds.  in  diameter,  defended  by  a 
double  foss  and  vallum.  This  creek  is  the  principal  place  of  embarkation 
to  the  Island  of  Bardsey.  The  passage  is  always  difficult,  lying  through 
a  rapid  current  which  sets  in  between  the  island  and  the  promontory  of 
Braich-y-Pwll.  The  latter  is  a  lofty,  rocky,  insulated  hiU,  noted  for 
having  been  a  strong  hold  of  the  sons  of  Owen  Gwynedd,  Roderick  and 
Malgwyn,  to  whom  this  part  of  the  country  belonged.  The  bottom,  sides, 
and  top,  are  filled  with  cells,  oblong,  oval,  or  circular,  once  thatched  or 
covered  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather.  The  summit  was  surrounded 
with  a  wall,  still  visible  in  many  places.  From  this  mount  is  an  extensive 
view  of  the  country,  with  the  bay  of  Caernarvon  on  one  side,  and  that  of 
Cardigan  on  the  other.  Sarn  Padrig  is  seen  extending  from  Merionethshire 
its  dangerous  length  ;  more  distant  is  seen  South  Wales  and  Ireland;  in 
front,  the  whole  tract ’of  Snowdonia.  At  the  foot  of  this  hill  is  Madryn, 
formerly  the  seat  of  the  Bodvels. 

From  Brynodol,  visit  the  neighbouring  shore,  which  is  low  and  rocky, 
opening  into  frequent  little  creeks.  Among  these  are  Porth  Towyn,  Porth 
Colman,  Porth  Gwylan,  and  Porth  Usgadan.  Near  the  last,  about  the 
year  1750,  a  rock,  which  towered  a  great  height  out  of  the  sea,  was  missed, 
after  a  horrible  night  of  thunder  and  lightning.  In  the  fields  about  Porth 
Gwylan  grows  samphire  in  abundance,  on  which  cattle  feed.  Near  Aber¬ 
aeron  grows  Brassica  oleracea.  From  this  port,  Mr,  Pennant  took  a  boat 
for  Bardsey  Island,  3  leagues  to  the  west.  After  doubling  a  headland, 
the  island  appears  full  in  view ;  passed  under  the  lofty  mountain  which 
forms  one  side,  and  doubling  the  farther  end,  put  into  a  little  sandy  creek, 
bounded  by  low  rocks. 


BEDDGELART. 


89 

Barbsey  Island,  in  Welsh,  Ynys-Enlli,  the  island  in  the  current,” 
is  the  property  of  Lord  Newborough.  It  is  of  a  moderate  elevation, 
somewhat  more  than  2  m.  long,  and  one  broad,  containing  about  370  acres 
of  land,  whereof  nearly  one  third  is  occupied  by  a  high  mountain,  affording 
sustenance  only  to  a  few  sheep  and  rabbits.  Its  distance  from  the  main 
land,  is  about  a  league.  On  the  s.  e.  side,  only  accessible  to  the  mariner, 
there  is  a  small  well-sheltered  harbour,  capable  of  admitting  vessels  of 
30  or  40  tons  burden.  The  soil  is  clayey,  and  produces  excellent  barley 
and  wheat.  No  reptile  is  ever  seen  on  this  island  except  the  common 
water-lizard.  It  contains  but  eight  houses,  yet  the  number  of  inhabitants 
is  upwards  of  70.  Few  of  the  present  inhabitants  are  natives  of  the  island. 
Their  chief  employment,  besides  managing  their  land,  is  fishing.  A  light¬ 
house  was  erected  here  in  1821.  The  tower  is  square,  supporting  a  lantern 
10  ft.  high.  The  abbot’s  house  is  a  large  stone  building,  inhabited  by 
several  of  the  natives  ;  not  far  from  it,  is  a  singular  chapel  or  oratory, 
being  a  long  arched  edifice,  with  an  insulated  stone  altar  near  the  e.  end. 
Dubricius,  archbishop  of  Caerleon,  almost  overpowered  by  years,  resigned 
his  see  to  St.  David,  retired  here,  and  died  a.d.  6l2.  He  was  interred 
upon  the  spot,  but  such  was  the  veneration  paid  to  his  memory  in  after 
ages,  that  about  the  year  1 1 07,  his  remains  were  removed  by  Urban,  then 
bishop  of  LlandafF,  and  deposited  in  that  cathedral,  of  which  Dubricius  was 
the  first  bishop.  St.  Dubricius  was  a  man  of  singular  eminence  for 
learning  and  piety,  whom  Bayle  calls  Dubricius  Gwaynianus,  a  solo  apud 
Deraetas  sic  dictus,”  which  place  is  in  the  parish  of  Fishguard.  [Cam. 
Regis,  1795,  p.  242.]  He  was  archbishop  of  Caerleon,  and  metropolitan 
of  all  Wales,  in  the  time  of  Aurelius  Ambrosius.  Prior  to  his  elevation, 
he  taught  a  school  on  the  banks  of  his  native  river,  which  was  much 
resorted  to  from  all  countries.  He  was  a  strenuous  opposer  of  the  Pelagian 
heresy,  and  assisted  at  the  memorable  synod  held  at  Llandewi-Brefi,  in 
Cardiganshire,  for  confuting  that  doctrine. 

Return  through  the  rapid  Bardsey  Sound,  between  the  island  and  the 
great  promontory  of  B7'aic-y-PwU,  the  canganum  promontorium  of  Pto¬ 
lemy  ;  part  is  called  Maen-Melyn ;  the  remaining  portion  is  a  vast 
precipice,  gloomy  and  tremendous.  Landing  at  Aberaeron,  visit  its  summit, 
and  inspect  the  ruins  of  Capel  Fair,  St.  Mary’s.  Not  far  hence,  pass  by 
the  ruins  of  Capel-anlielog ,  the  chapel  without  endowment.  Passing  a 
fertile  bottom,  ascend  a  lofty  mountain,  impending  over  the  sea,  called 
Uwch-mynydd,  on  which  are  several  circular  hollows.  Descend  by  Beth¬ 
lehem,  a  large  antique  mansion.  Not  far  hence,  about  ^  m.  from  the  shore, 
rises  a  high  rock,  called  Maen-y-mellt,  the  stone  of  lightning, 

Llanfaelrhys,  2  m.  The  views  here  embrace  an  extensive  prospect  of 
the  adjacent  country,  which  is  finely  diversified.  The  channel  produces  a 
fine  effect.  Manganese  is  found  here,  but  no  mines  are  opened.  A  cir¬ 
culating  school  visits  this  place  every  fourth  year.  To  such  remote  regions, 
the  design  is  admirably  adapted.  Charity  thus,  like  her  Divine  Master, 
becomes  itinerant,  and  ‘^‘^goes  about”  diffusing  its  blessings  even  among  the 
bye- ways  and  hedges  of  a  fallen  world. 

Rhiw,  1|  m.  Near  this  place  is  a  bay  called  HelV s-Mouth,  dreaded  by 
mariners,  being  the  Scylla  to  the  Charybdis  of  Sarn-Badrig,  the  extremity 
of  which  lies  nearly  opposite. 

To  Pwllheli  continue  near  the  shore  on  TudwaFs  Road,  sheltered  by  two 
islands  of  that  name. 

The  village  of  Llanbedrog  is  placed  in  a  romantic  creek,  upon  the  s.  e. 
side  of  Llyn.  The  church  and  parsonage  lie  in  this  bottom,  on  the  verge 


BEDDGELART. 


90 

of  the  sea,  sheltered  on  one  side  by  a  declivity  of  fruitful  corn  land,  and 
upon  the  other  by  a  high  black  rock,  forming  a  promontory.  Colonel 
Wardle  has  a  handsome  house  in  this  secluded  corner,  commanding  views 
of  Cardigan  Bay,  Harlech  Castle,  Cader  Idris,  &c.  &c.  Walking  over  the 
sands  at  a  proper  time,  and  crossing  the  water  at  a  ferry,  arrive  at  Pwllheli, 
or  Eglwys-Dyne’ios,  a  small  fashionable,  well-built,  market-town  and  sea-port, 
situated  on  the  s.  side  of  the  promontory  of  Llyen,  in  the  hundred  of  Guff- 
logion,  in  Caernarvonshire,  parish  of  Dyneio.  Three  or  four  streams  fall 
into  its  traeth.  The  church,  built  in  1834,  is  in  a  chaste  style,  substantial, 
and  plain  ;  it  accommodates  a  large  congregation,  cost  15001.,  and  is  erected 
upon  land  given  by  Lord  Newborough.  The  entrance  into  the  port  is  by 
a  round-shaped  rock,  denominated  Craig-yr-Imhell,  or  Gimblat.  It  is 
governed  by  a  mayor,  a  recorder,  and  two  bailiffs.  The  town-haU,  erected 
in  1818,  is  a  neat  structure,  of  which  a  part  is  appropriated  to  shambles. 
The  first  floor  contains  two  public  rooms.  The  view  of  the  adjacent  country 
from  the  town  abounds  in  the  beautiful  and  sublime.  Pwllheli  forms  a 
convenient  deposit  for  the  varied  produce  of  Liverpool,  and  is  considered  to 
he  the  cheapest  spot  in  N.  Wales.  Its  harbour  will  admit  vessels  of  60  tons 
burden,  which  enables  it  to  carry  on  an  extensive  coasting  trade,  and  to 
form  a  depot,  or  grand  magazine,  for  supplying  the  s.  w.  district  of  the 
country.  The  petty  sessions  for  the  district  of  Lleyn  are  held  here.  Along 
the  coast,  to  Bardsey  Island,  a  considerable  fishing  trade  is  carried  on. 
Vast  shoals  of  herrings  frequent  the  bays  and  creeks;  these  are  taken,  and 
some  salted  on  the  shore ;  others  are  sold  to  the  Irish,  who  send  over  small 
craft  for  the  purpose.  Many  of  the  fish  called  John  Dorys,  Zeus  Faber  of 
Linnaeus,  are  taken  here.  They  were  formerly  returned  to  their  native 
element  by  the  fishermen,  till  the  Welsh  gentry  discovered,  that,  in  despite 
of  its  uncouth  and  forbidding  shape,  this  fish  was  the  honne-bouche  of  Quin, 
that  celebrated  actor  and  epicure  ;  it  then  became  an  object  of  luxury  among 
the  Welsh.  The  Smelt,  Atherina  Hepse,  is  also  found  upon  these  shores, 
and  a  small  lobster  differing  from  the  common  sort,  and  burrowung  in  the 
sands.  The  salubrity  of  the  air,  and  wholesomeness  of  fish-diet,  may  pro¬ 
bably  be  evinced  from  the  number  of  births  in  the  period  between  178?  to 
1796j>  having  exceeded  that  from  1737  to  1  766  one  half;  births  in  the  first 
period  253,  in  the  second  320.  From  a  table  in  the  Rev.  W.  Davis’s 
General  View,”  p.  439,  only  two  other  similar  instances  occur  in  N.  W ales; 
these  are  Llandegai  and  Llansilin. 

At  Llangyhi,  distant  3  m.  from  Pwllheli,  and  12  from  Caernarvon,  is  a 
mineral  water  highly  efficacious  in  diseases  of  the  eyes.  The  contents  of 
this  unanalysed  spring  are  heavier  than  common,  and  lighter  than  sea- water ; 
a  large  portion  of  mineral  and  alkaline  matter  enter  into  combination  with 
a  white  metallic  earth. 

The  little  village  of  Aherarch  is  pleasantly  situated.  This  neighbourhood 
presents  most  interesting  sylvan  scenery.  Llanystyndwy  lies  remarkably 
low,  and  is  washed  by  the  Dwyvor.  Quitting  the  road,  pass  Trevan  Hall, 
the  residence  of  Miss  Roberts.  In  a  meadow,  1  m.  thence,  is  a  remarkable 
cromlech,  elevated,  4  feet  from  the  ground,  by  four  supporters.  The 
central  is  a  huge  stone,  pointed  at  the  ends,  3  feet  thick,  the  circumference 
30.  It  is  called  Coeten- Arthur,  or  Arthur’s  Quoit.  At  a  farm,  1  m.  fur¬ 
ther,  called  Ystym-Cegid,  is  another  still  more  remarkable,  which  has  been 
converted  into  a  sheepfold  by  filling  the  interstices.  The  coping-stone  is 
1 8  inches  thick,  measures  36  feet  round,  and  is  so  high  as  to  allow  a  person 
on  horseback  to  pass  under.  This  is  called  also  Arthur’s  Quoit,  fabled  to 
have  been  thrown  by  Arthur  from  a  hill  near  Beddgelart.  A  pathway  leads 


BEDDGELART. 


91 

from  this  cromlech  to  Cruccaith.  The  following  are  the  distances  from 
Pwllheli  to  Cruccaith.  Aherarch,  1^  m. ;  Tan-yr-allt,  John  Robin_,  Esq., 
on  the  r.,  1  m. ;  Friwlyd-Mill,  2  m.  Pass  three  pools  on  the  r.  to  Pont- 
Pechan.Tynewydd,  m.  ;  Cruccaith,  2  m. 

The  N.  coast  of  this  promontory  is  more  uniformly  rocky  than  the  s., 
and,  except  in  a  few  of  the  bays,  there  is  no  sand  or  gravel  to  be  perceived. 
Some  of  the  mountains  approach  close  to  the  shore,  forming  precipices  of 
considerable  elevation.  The  interior  of  the  country  is  varied,  though  it 
presents  none  of  those  deep  glens  and  continuous  chains  of  mountains 
which  characterise  the  rest  of  Caernarvonshire  :  its  surface  is,  for  the  most 
part,  what  would  be  called  upland  pasture  in  England ;  interrupted  occa¬ 
sionally  by  narrow  and  often  marshy  valleys,  with  interspersed  conic  moun¬ 
tains,  either  solitary  or  in  small  groups.  The  fields  are  divided  by  stone 
walls  or  earthen  mounds,  and  trees  are  generally  wanting,  which  gives  the 
district  a  bare  appearance.  Some  fine  timber  is  however  to  be  found  in 
several  of  the  valleys,  and  even  in  exposed  situations  there  appears  no  diffi¬ 
culty  in  raising  wood.  The  general  character  of  the  soil  is  light  and  stony; 
but,  from  its  situation  with  regard  to  the  mountains,  being  both  dryer  and 
warmer  than  most  other  parts  of  the  county,  the  quantity  and  value  of  its 
agricultural  produce  is  proportion  ably  larger ;  many  cattle  are  reared  here, 
and  the  horses  of  the  district  are  greatly  superior  to  the  average  of  Welsh 
ponies  ;  a  superiority  to  be  attributed,  probably,  in  no  small  degree  to 
Mr.  Parry,  of  Madrin,  who  possesses  a  stud,  among  which  are  several  fine 
hunter  stallions.  The  maritime  trade  of  the  district  is  carried  on  for  the 
most  part  at  Pwllheli.  The  little  borough  of  Cruccaith  is  situated  on  a 
small  bay  a  few  miles  to  the  n.  e.  of  Pwllheli.  The  spirit  of  improvement, 
so  visible  in  many  other  parts  of  N.  Wales,  has  been  peculiarly  active  in 
this  district.  It  was  first  visible  in  the  construction  of  a  good  road  from 
Caernarvon  to  Pwllheli,  and  since  in  the  spirited  undertakings  of  Mr.  Mad- 
docks  and  Mr.  Parry.  A  project  was  conceived  of  diverting  the  stream  of 
passengers  between  Dublin  and  London,  from  the  accustomed  track  through 
Holyhead  and  Chester,  by  offering  a  line  of  road  shorter  by  several  miles, 
and  in  which  the  troublesome  and  dangerous  passages  of  Conway  and 
Bangor  ferries  should  be  avoided.  For  this  purpose,  good  carriage  roads 
have  been  opened  from  Capel  Curig,  in  one  direction,  and  Maentwrog  in 
another  to  Beddgelart,  whence  an  excellent  line  of  communication  has  been 
formed  along  the  edge  of  Traeth  mawr,  through  the  new  town  of  Tre- 
Madoc,  to  the  little  bay  of  Forth  Dynllaen  on  the  n.  coast  of  the  promon¬ 
tory,  not  far  from  Nefyn.  The  advantages  of  this  harbour  (where  a  town 
is  building)  over  Holyhead,  are,  that  it  is  better  sheltered,  that  even  at  the 
lowest  ebb  tide  there  is  plenty  of  water  for  the  largest  packets  to  go  in  and 
come  out,  and  that  the  frequent  loss  of  one  or  two  tides,  now  experienced 
by  the  packets  being  forced  by  n.  w.  gales  into  Caernarvon  bay,  is  entirely 
obviated. 

At  a  public  meeting  held  at  Shrewsbury  in  January  last,  the  following 
resolution  was  formed  in  reference  to  this  place  :  —  That  Port  Dyn  ¬ 
llaen,  in  Caernarvonshire,  is  the  most  desirable  position  for  a  packet  station 
to  Ireland  (it  being  also  strongly  recommended  for  a  harbour  of  refuge,  so 
much  required  on  the  Welsh  coast),  and  that  by  the  formation  of  a  line  of 
railway  from  that  port,  by  Bala  and  Shrewsbury,  to  the  Grand  Junction  at 
or  near  Wolverhampton,  the  best  and  most  expeditious  railway  communi¬ 
cation  from  London  to  Dublin  would  be  obtained.” 

The  general  dip  of  the  strata  in  this  promontory  is  to  the  s.  w. ;  on  the 
N.  coast  we  find  chlorite  slate  and  coarse  serpentine,  the  latter  of  which  is 


92 


BRECKNOCK. 


intermixed  with  veins  of  calcareous  spar  and  red  jasper.  This  serpentine 
is  particularly  abundant  at  Forth  Dynllaen,  where  the  piers  and  new  houses 
are  constructed  of  it.  Upon  the  chlorite  slate  rest  beds  of  primitive  argil, 
laceous  schistus  and  griinstein,  sometimes  alternating  one  with  the  other : 
of  these  minerals  the  former  is  generally  in  the  state  of  coarse  common 
slate  ;  in  some  places^  however,  it  is  largely  mixed  with  carbon,  forming  a 
hard  kind  of  drawing  slate,  and  in  others  is  penetrated  both  by  carbon  and 
pyrites,  forming  alum  slate  ;  the  griinstein  consists  of  white  and  greenish 
crystals  of  felspar,  largely  mixed  with  chlorite  and  hornblende.  The  above- 
mentioned  strata  form  the  general  level  of  the  district,  rarely  rising  into 
hills,  except  at  the  east  extremity.  The  higher  hills  consist  entirely  of 
smoke-coloured  hornstone  porphyry ;  their  figure  is  for  the  most  part 
regularly  conical,  and  their  surface  is  remarkably  rough  with  broken  frag¬ 
ments.  The  lower  hills,  especially  on  the  s.  coast,  have  a  strong  tendency 
to  form  hanks  and  ridges,  and  are  chiefly  compact  felspar,  of  a  whitish- 
gray  colour,  and  not  unfrequently  phorphyritic.  No  mines  of  any  de¬ 
scription  have  been  opened  in  this  district.”  —  The  Athenceum,  vol.  hi. 
p.  24. 

From  the  beautifully  retired  village  of  Beddgelart,”  says  Sir  Richard 
Hoare,  I  would  visit  the  prophetic  hill  of  Dinas-Emrys,  and  passing 
near  the  fine  lakes  of  Llyn-y-Dinas ,  and  Gwynedd,  pursue  the  alpine  road 
to  Capel  Curig  j  whence  the  highest  point  of  Snowdon  appears  very  con¬ 
spicuous,  and  to  greater  advantage  than  from  any  other  spot.  From  Capel 
Curig  I  would  return  to  Caernarvon  by  Llanberis  lakes  and  Dolhadarn 
Castle ;  and  I  am  sure  every  tourist  will  pardon  me  for  having  recom¬ 
mended  so  long  and  arduous  a  digression  ;  for  by  encircling  Snowdon,  he 
will  have  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  its  sublime  and  majestic  fea¬ 
tures  in  the  most  advantageous  point  of  view.”  —  Giraldm,  with  Anno¬ 
tations,  ii.  389- 

A  new  turnpike-road  leads  from  Beddgelart,  by  the  beautiful  lakes  of 
Dinas  and  Gwynant,  to  Capel  Curig. 


To  the  summit  of  Snowdon,  6  miles.  Back  to  I 
Beddgelart,  thence  to  Tre  Madoc,  by  way  of 
Pont  Aberglaslyn,  1^  miles.  Bingley. 
Tan-y-bwlch,  9  miles.  Bingley. 

Snowdon,  and  back,  thence  to  Dolwyddelan 
Castle.  Aikin. 

Caernarvon,  13  nailes.  Wyndham  ;  Evans. 
Llanberis,  over  Snowdon,  14  miles. 


To  Tre  Madoc,  by  way  of  Pont  Aberglaslyn, 6  miles. 
Pennant ;  Skrine. 

Penmorfa,  7  miles. 

Capel  Curig,  12  miles. 

After  an  excursion  in  the  promontory  of  Llyn, 
terminating  with  Cruccaith,  s.  w.  Mr.  Pugh 
returned  to  this  place,  whence  he  proceeded 
to  Maentwrog,  10  miles. 


BRECKNOCK. 


From  Abergavenny,  20  miles.  Barber. 

Merthyr  Tydvil,  18  m.  Malkin  ;  Manby. 
Llandovery,  20  miles.  Evans  j  Skrine’s  2d 
visit ;  Lipscomb. 


From  Crickhowel,  14  miles.  Warner  ;  Skrine. 
Neath,  Warner’s  2d  walk. 

Builth,  15  miles.  Wyndham. 

- ,  by  new  road,  22. 


BRECKNOCK,  or  Brecon,  from  Brechan  the  son  of  Aulach,  who  suc¬ 
ceeded  to  the  possession  of  this  district  in  right  of  his  mother  Marnhell, 
daughter  and  heir  of  king  Teudric  or  Theodric.  This  is  an  archdeaconry  in 
the  diocese  of  St.  David’s,  and  was  once  held  by  Giraldus,  who  wrote  the 
Cambriae  Descriptio,”  in  the  reign  of  King  John.  Brecknock  lies  in  the 
centre  of  the  county,  but  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  hundred  of 
Merthyr,  upon  a  gentle  swell,  overlooking  a  fertile  and  highly  cultivated 
valley,  at  the  conflux  of  the  rivers  Usk  and  Honddu  ;  hence  it  is  called 
Aberhonddu.  On  the  s.e.  Brecon  is  almost  overlooked  by  a  hill  called 


BRECKNOCK. 


9S 

Slwch-tump.  Northward  appears  another  eminence  called  Pen-y-crug, 
shelving  down  gradually  to  Brecon,  so  that  a  traveller  from  Hay,  Battle,  or 
Builth  finds  the  town  below  him.  On  the  s.  side  is  Cefn  Cantreff  and  a 
wooded  brow  called  Clos-y-coed.  The  best  anglers  and  the  finest  fishing 
in  S.  Wales  are  found  in  the  vicinity  of  Brecknock.  The  Monuchdenny , 
or  Pennerfaen,  is  a  very  high  mountain,  on  the  s.  side  of  the  town,  which 
bears  a  miniature  resemblance  to  Cader  Idris,  as  seen  from  Dolgelly. 

The  origin  of  Brecon  cannot  be  fairly  attributed  to  an  earlier  period  than 
1092.  It  appears  from  Leland  that  the  castle  was  not  completed  till  the  year 
1094.  The  Wall  was  perfect  in  Speed’s  time,  and  until  the  demolition  of  the 
castle  in  the  time  of  Charles  I.  Its  base  is  still  perfectly  visible,  and  some 
parts  are  yet  standing.  On  the  outward  side  was  a  deep  foss  or  ditch, 
supposed  to  have  been  occasionally  filled  with  water.  On  this  wall  were 
ten  towers,  of  irregular  construction.  The  entrances  into  the  town  were 
through  five  gates  :  the  two  first  led  to  the  Priory,  of  which  there  are 
some  remains.  In  1811  the  census  states  the  population  to  be  3196;  in 
1831 ,  it  amounted  to  5046.  This  borough  is  divided  into  twelve  wards,  and 
governed  by  seventeen  burgesses,  fifteen  of  whom,  including  the  bailiflp, 
recorder,  and  aldermen,  are  common-council  men  :  the  chamberlains  are 
also  burgesses  and  have  votes  in  the  election  of  a  representative  in  parlia¬ 
ment.  The  assizes  for  the  county  and  election  of  a  knight  of  the  shire 
take  place  in  this  the  county  town.  The  town  consists  of  three  principal 
streets,  contains  a  large  proportion  of  well-built  houses,  is  lighted  with  gas, 
and  well  paved.  The  amenity  of  its  situation,  purity  of  atmosphere,  and 
interesting  neighbourhood  have  attracted  a  select  society  of  wealthy  and 
highly  respectable  families.  Though  formerly  of  some  commercial  im¬ 
portance,  there  are  now  no  manufactures.  The  trade  consists  of  a 
supply  for  home  consumption,  wool,  leather,  hoj)s,  &c. 

The  College,  once  a  Dominican  Priory,  stands  at  the  e.  end  of  the 
town,  and  appears  as  old  as  the  time  of  Bernard  de  Newmarch,  by  whom 
it  is  said  to  have  been  founded.  Part  of  an  old  gateway^  built  in  a 
quadrangular  form,  still  remains  ;  and  the  ancient  choir,  and  nave  or  shell 
for  burying.  Henry  VIII.  converted  this  place  into  a  college,  called 
College  of  Christ  Church,  Brecknock,”  and  joined  to  it  the  college  of 
Abergwilli.  This  institution  consists  of  the  bishop  of  St.  David,  who 
presides  as  dean,  a  precentor,  treasurer,  chancellor,  and  nineteen  other 
prebendaries. 

St.  John  the  Evangelist' s,  or  the  Priory,  formerly  from  its  cross  aisles  or 
chapels,  called  Ecclesia  Sanctce  Crucis,  and  sometimes  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Rood,  “  standeth,”  as  Leland  says,  north  without  the  waulle  upon 
the  ripe  of  Honddye.”  It  was  either  entirely  erected  or  considerably 
improved  by  Bernard  Newmarch.  It  has  undergone  many  alterations  since 
that  time,  and  presents  a  motley  appearance  ;  the  prevailing  features  are 
however.  Gothic.  It  stands  upon  an  eminence  formerly  surrounded  by  a 
lofty  wall,  part  of  which  remains  on  the  w.  side.  Of  the  Benedictine 
Priory,  there  are  now  no  remains,  save  the  outward  parapet  wall, 
which  is  very  perfect ;  it  stands  near  the  entrance  to  the  churchyard,  from 
the  N.w.  to  the  foot  of  the  bridge  over  the  Hondclu  on  the  s.  Near  the  w. 
pine  end  of  the  church  is  a  beautiful  circular  Saxon  stone  font.  The 
nave  is  very  lofty,  and  has  lately  been  ceiled  ;  but  unfortunately  the  same 
decorating  and  beautifying  hour  swept  away  the  venerable  carved  screens 
from  the  tradesmen’s  aisles.  The  w.  end  of  the  fabric  is  intersected  by  two 
cross  aisles,  called  the  Chapel  of  the  Men  of  Battle,  and  the  Capel  Cochiaid 
Norman,  or  Red-haired  Men’s  Chapel,  and  divided  from  the  vicar’s  chapel 


BRECKNOCK. 


94. 

(formerly  the  Havard’s),  of  somewhat  larger  dimensions.  The  Red- 
Haired  Men’s  Chapel”  is  on  the  s.  side  of  the  nave  :  on  the  e.  side  is  a 
small  recess  used  as  a  burying  place  by  the  family  of  Hughes  of  Brecon 
and  Tregunter.  Still  further  e.  are  the  ruins  of  a  vestry-room.  The 
steeple  is  placed  immediately  over  the  intersection  of  this  cross_,  and  covers 
an  area  of  10  square  yards  within  the  walls.  It  is  considerably  higher 
than  St.  Mary’s^  contains  six  bells^  and  formerly  could  be  entered  by  gal¬ 
leries  from  all  parts  of  the  church.  The  chancel  is  divided  from  the  body 
of  the  church  by  a  gallery,  once  the  rood  loft.  Innovation  has  not  effaced 
entirely  the  ancient  magnificence  of  this  church.  On  each  side  are  seen 
three  rows  of  light  and  beautifully  clustered  columns,  broken  off  above  the 
corbels.  A  highly  finished  monument  has  been  recently  erected  to  the 
memory  of  J.  Powell,  Esq.,  of  Brecon,  under  the  direction  of  his  son.  The 
figure  is  elegant,  nearly  life-size,  and  the  production  of  Mr.  Thomas,  a 
native  of  Brecon,  whose  natural  talent  and  perseverance  has  acquired  the 
high  distinction  of  royal  patronage.  Here  is  also  a  tablet  to  D.  Price,  Esq., 
M.R.  A.  S.-F.R.  S.  a  native  of  this  county;  he  was  an  elegant  and  ac¬ 
complished  oriental  scholar,  and  author  of  various  publications.  In  a 
niche  in  the  north  aisle,  is  a  recumbent  figure,  which  is  worthy  of  observa¬ 
tion.  The  tombs  in  this  church  are  numerous,  and  their  inscriptions 
frequently  long,  but  not  remarkable.  Under  a  flat  stone  beneath  the  wall 
lies  Rees  Powell,  rector  of  Aberedw,  Radnorshire,  May  5.  l687,  ffitat.  55. 
This  pious  and  good  man  bequeathed  20/.  annually  for  placing  out  poor 
children,  natives  of  the  town,  to  trades  ;  10/.  to  enable  such  children  to  set  up 
in  their  trades ;  20/.  for  placing  out  children  in  various  other  parishes,  also 
10/.  for  setting  them  up  in  trades,  and  several  other  similar  donations. 

The  more  recent  memorials  of  departed  worth  are  as  follow  : — A  mural 
monument  commemorates  Mrs.  Pennoyre  Watkins  ;  the  artist  is  Tyley.  On 
the  north  wall  of  the  chancel  is  another  to  W.  Morgan  James,  Esq.,  by 
Flaxman,  a  beautiful  piece  of  sculpture,  representing  Faith  in  the  attitude 
of  administering  consolation  to  the  surviving  widow :  another  to  Sir 
J.  Meredith,  is  executed  by  Bacon.  The  ancient  monument  to  Sir  David 
Williams  was  renewed  by  Col.  Wood,  of  Lyttleton.  Within  the  communion 
rail  on  the  north  side  is  a  carved  stone,  supposed  once  to  have  formed  an 
altar-piece.  Tregunter  chapel  is  kept  in  good  repair  by  the  family  of  that 
name. 

Upon  the  wall  next  the  chancel,  is  a  marble  monument  to  Joanna, 
daughter  of  Edward  Hughes,  of  Brecon,  1741,  who  intermarried  with 
Thomas  Rodd  of  Marden,  Herefordshire.  She  left  10^.  annually  towards 
the  repairs  of  Capel  yr  Havardiaid,  and  206“.  annually  to  four  poor  widows. 
That  tenement  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Allen  of  Crescelly,  in 
Pembrokeshire. 

The  churchyard  affords  little  that  can  interest  an  intelligent  observer. 
The  benefactions  of  this  priory  have  been  numerous.  Bishop  Tanner  has 
given,  in  his  “  Notitia,”  a  list  of  them. 

The  Chapel  of  St.  Elyned,  near  Swch,  being  parcel  of  the  possession  of 
St.John’s,  fell  down  about. the  latter  end  of  the  17th  century,  and  is  now 
only  a  confused  heap  of  stones  :  there  was  also  an  hospitium  with  a  chapel 
annexed,  adjoining  an  inclosure,  now  converted  into  a  public  coal  wharf, 
near  the  Watton  turnpike:  the  chapel  stood  where  the  spittal-barn  has 
been  placed. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Men  of  Battle  appears  little  better  than  a  barn,  being 
only  an  entrance  to  the  church ;  the  floor  is  of  earth,  except  where  it  is 
covered  with  tomb-stones. 


BRECKNOCK. 


95 

The  Weavers’  and  Tuckers’  Chapel  contains  hut  few  tomhs^  and  those 
are  unimportant.  The  Taylors’  and  Corvizors’  chapel  is  so  covered  v^ith  dust 
and  rubbish  that  none  of  the  inscriptions  are  visible. 

The  Church  of  St.  Mary,  according  to  a  document  of  Mr.  Carte’s  papers 
in  the  Bodleian,,  appears  to  have  been  built  as  early  as  the  latter  end  of  the 
1 2th,  or  beginning  of  the  following  century  ;  but  it  cannot  be  concluded 
that  the  present  structure  is  of  that  early  date.  The  e.  window  of  the 
chancel  is  the  Gothic  of  the  middle  age,  and  the  prevailing  style  of  its 
architecture  indicates  that  it  was  not  erected  till  after  the  year  1515.  None 
of  its  decorations  or  pillars  have  the  slightest  pretensions  to  antiquity.  Not 
a  single  monument,  figure,  or  inscription  is  preserved  within  its  walls.  The 
present  steeple,  which  is  about  90  feet  in  height,  was  built  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  VIII. ;  it  has  a  peal  of  8  bells,  cast  by  Rhudhall  of  Gloucester.  The 
body  of  the  church  consists  of  2  aisles ;  and  on  the  n.  e.  is  the  shoemakers’ 
chapel,  from  which  is  a  door  into  the  vestry,  but  since  the  erection  of  houses 
close  to  the  windows,  both  these  places  are  become  so  dark,  that  want  of 
room  only  compels  the  inhabitants  to  occupy  the  seats  in  one  ;  but  the  busi¬ 
ness  usually  transacted  in  the  other  is  now  transferred  to  the  town-hall. 
The  principal  entrance  is  under  part  of  the  gallery  in  which  an  organ  was 
placed  about  the  year  1794*.  The  consistory  court  for  the  archdeaconry  is 
held  once  a  month,  under  the  s.  w.  door.  This  part  of  the  building  was 
divided  from  the  other,  where  divine  service  was  performed,  by  a  slight 
partition  and  railing,  about  the  year  I69O.  In  1805  it  was  repaired  and 
improved,  the  aisles  boarded,  and  2  buzaglos  placed  there,  principally  at 
the  expense  of  the  Ven.  Richard  Davies,  archdeacon  of  Brecon,  who  also 
erected  several  new  seats  in  the  chancel.  No  persons  have  been  buried  here 
within  the  memory  of  man  ;  nor  does  tradition  recognise  an  interment 
within  this  fabric  :  during  these  alterations,  2  stones  were  removed,  evi¬ 
dently  sepulchral.  In  the  wall  of  the  n.  aisle  are  some  marble  tablets,  upon 
which  are  inscribed  the  Lord’s  Prayer,  the  Apostles  Creed,  and  the  Ten 
Commandments,  presented  by  Mr.  Walker  of  Newton  ;  and  upon  the 
wall  of  the  chancel  are  two  tables  recording  all  the  benefactions  to  this 
town,  as  well  as  the  parish  of  St.  John’s,  Mrs.  Rodd’s  excepted.  Of  this 
establishment  the  unfortunate  Dr.  Dodd  was  |a  prebend,  who  has  re¬ 
corded  his  connection  with  this  place  in  some  beautiful  lines  called  Pious 
Memory.” 

There  are  Dissenting  Chapels  in  this  place  for  independents,  2  for 
baptists,  2  for  the  persuasion  of  Wesleyans,  and  another  of  Calvinistic  me- 
thodists.  1  Catholic  chapel. 

The  general  market-day  is  Saturday,  another  smaller  is  on  Wednesday, 
and  for  cattle  on  Friday,  weekly.  There  are  5  fairs  in  the  year,  viz.  1st 
Wednesday  in  March,  May  5.,  July  5.,  Sept.  9*^  and  Nov.  17.,  principally 
for  cattle.  The  town  is  plentifully  supplied  with  coals  and  other  articles 
by  means  of  a  canal.  I'enders  for  the  erection  of  a  New  Ma7'ket  House, 
according  to  the  plan  and  specification  of  Mr.  Wyatt,  have  been  received  by 
the  Committee  of  Management.  The  mail  coach  takes  the  road  through 
Gloucester,  Monmouth,  Abergavenny,  Brecon,  and  Caermarthen,  to  Mil¬ 
ford,  every  day  in  the  week  excepting  Tuesday  ;  and  Friday  on  the  return. 

The  Castle  Inn  is  situated  at  the  w.  extremity  of  the  lawn,  upon  the 
site  of  the  old  ruin.  This  and  the  Swan  afford  good  accommodation. 

A  County  Gaol  has  been  constructed  on  the  Howardian  plan.  There 
is  also  a  Town  Gaol  for  the  borough.  The  Town  Hall  was  built  in 
I77O;  it  has  a  vault  below,  where  leather  and  other  merchandize  are  pre¬ 
served,  above  which  is  a  market-house,  where  hops,  butter,  and  other 


BRECKNOCK. 


96 

articles  are  sold.  On  the  first  floor  is  a  room  for  the  administration  of 
justice,  where  the  great  sessions,  quarter  sessions,  and  the  county  and  town 
courts  are  held.  At  the  end  is  a  jury  room.  Exclusive  of  the  town 
courts,  held  on  Mondays  and  Thursdays,  there  is  a  court  of  quarter 
sessions,  at  which  the  recorder  presides,  deciding  upon  all  offences  not 
capital. 

The  Arsenal  at  Brecon  is  of  brick,  built  in  1805  very  substantially, 
yet  finished  with  elegance.  It  is  situated  near  a  row  of  genteel  houses 
called  Jeffrey  s  Place^  by  the  road-side  on  the  e.  entrance,  in  part  of 
the  town  called  Watton,  forming  a  beautiful  and  interesting  object.  The 
main  building  is  99  feet  in  length  by  35  in  breadth,  and  two  stories  high. 
In  High-street,  at  the  Shoulder-of- Mutton,”  Mrs.  Siddons  was  born  ;  the 
register  of  her  baptism  is  dated  July  14.  1755. 

Over  the  river  Honddu,  within  the  town  of  Brecon,  are  three  hridges. 
The  upper  one,  leading  to  the  Priory,  is  very  old ;  the  arches  were  extremely 
clumsy,  narrow,  and  inconvenient,  but  have  been  recently  much  improved. 
The  next  below  led  to  the  Castle:  it  consists  of  two  arches,  and  an  immensely 
thick  pier  in  the  middle,  supported  by  a  draw  -bridge ;  it  is  now  thrown 
open  to  the  public.  The  third  bridge  over  the  Honddu,  near  its  junction 
with  the  Usk,  consists  of  three  heavy  arches.  It  was  considerably  widened 
in  1794'.  Brynich  is  an  inconsiderable  stream,  which  passes  about  1  m. 
below  the  Walton  turnpike-gate,  but  it  is  intercepted  in  its  progress  to  the 
Usk  by  the  Brecon  canal,  which  arrests  its  current,  and  commands  its 
assistance  in  the  conveyance  of  coal  and  other  articles.  The  most  fascinat¬ 
ing  attraction  of  the  town  are  its  delightful  Walks;  one,  on  the  margin  of  the 
noble  Usk,  is  called  Captain  s  Walk,  having  formerly  been  frequented  by  the 
French  prisoners,  once  stationed  here.  The  other,  called  the  Priory  walk, 
is  a  luxuriant  grove  impendent  over  the  brawling  Plonddu.  Several  small 
falls  of  the  river  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  this  promenade,  where  seats 
are  placed  at  convenient  distances  for  the  accommodation  of  the  public. 
Within  the  parish  of  St.  John’s  are  two  beautiful  groves;  Venni  Vach, 
m.,  is  extremely  beautiful,  and  in  some  respects  superior  to  the  Priory- 
grove.  Within  this  parish  the  Honddu  and  the  Brynach  empty  themselves 
into  the  Usk.  The  Yscir  falls  in  upon  the  confines.  The  appearance  of 
Brecknock  is  strikingly  picturesque,  and  the  various  interesting  objects  com¬ 
posing  the  scenery  of  the  immediate  vicinity,  though  not  numerous,  are 
pleasingly  contrasted  and  happily  combined.  The  streams  which  converge 
to  it  as  a  common  centre,  with  their  respective  bridges  and  the  various  mills 
erected  on  their  banks :  the  venerable  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle,  with  its 
massive  towers  and  ivy-mantled  walls;  the  embattled  turret  and  gateway 
of  the  priory  of  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  wuth  its  ample  and  luxuriant 
groves  fringing  the  margin  of  the  Honddu,  from  which,  in  many  places, 
they  appear  to  rise ;  and  the  magnificent  range  of  mountain  scenery  to  the 
s.  of  the  town,  with  the  almost  endless  variety  of  impending  heights,  which 
encircle  it  on  every  side,  unite  in  forming  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
richly  varied  views  in  this  part  of  the  principality.” —  Lewis. 

The  Castle  of  Brecknock  is  one  of  the  earliest  structures  of  this  descrip¬ 
tion  in  this  country.  It  was  built  by  Bernard  Newmarch,  about  the  year 
1094.  The  outward  walls,  thicker  than  those  of  the  Roman  camp  at  Gaer, 
display  the  earliest  style  of  Norman  architecture.  Though  the  interior  of 
the  residence  of  Bernard  Newmarch  must  be  left  to  conjecture,  the  form  of 
it  remains  perfectly  visible ;  it  was  an  oblong  square,  100  yards  by  80.  On 
the  E.  and  s.  the  Honddu  washed  its  walls.  Hugh  Thomas  tells  us,  that  at  each 
corner  of  the  square  of  this  building  were  two  watch-towers ;  the  ruins  of 


BRECKNOCK. 


97 

two  still  remain  at  the.  s.  angle ;  and  upon  an  elevated  and  artificial  mound, 
to  the  N.E.,  is  the  Keep.  Within  this  fortress  Stafford  Duke  of  Bucking¬ 
ham,  and  Morton  Bishop  of  Ely,  concerted  the  union  of  the  houses  of 
York  and  Lancaster,  in  consequence  of  which  Henry  VII.  was  indebted  for 
his  station  upon  the  throne  of  England.  Since  the  confinement  of  Bishop 
Morton  it  has  been  called  Ely  Tower.  The  ground  on  this  side  is  higher 
than  the  site  of  the  castle,  which  made  it  more  assailable  on  the  n.  There 
were  here,  therefore,  in  addition  to  the  deep  ravine  or  moat  before  noticed, 
two  additional  fosses,  occasionally  filled  from  Maenday  Well.  The  prin¬ 
cipal  entrance  was  to  the  w.,  opposite  to  which  was  another,  called  the 
Postern,  corrupted  into  Postrwm.  Leading  from  the  gate,  a  few  yards  e. 
is  a  stone  bridge  of  two  arches,  formerly  a  draw-bridge.  According  to 
Speed’s  map,  there  was  another  of  the  same  description  upon  the  w.  side,  over 
the  moat  between  the  castle  and  the  green  mound  called  Baili  glas,  where 
the  courts  leet  and  courts  baron  of  the  Lords  of  Brecknock  were  held  of  old. 
According  to  a  survey  of  the  manor  of  Brecknock,  taken  13  Hen.  VIII. 
(see  Jones’s  History,  vol.  ii.  p.  804.),  the  goodly  hall,  with  its  costly  pend¬ 
ants,  does  not  exist.  A  tennis-court  is  formed  in  one  of  the  angles ;  an 
under-shot  water-wheel  adjoins  the  site.  The  site  of  the  chapel  of  St. 
Nicholas  is  also  obliterated.  The  castle  continued  not  only  to  be  the  seat 
for  the  administration  of  public  justice  under  the  Lords  Marchers,  hut  after 
its  forfeiture  to  the  crown,  and  until  its  demolition  in  the  time  of  Charles  I., 
it  was  the  receipt  of  the  King’s  audit,  and  the  common  gaol  for  the  county. 
Of  the  mansions  of  those  once  accounted  great  little  remains  ;  their  grandeur 
has  perished,  and  their  castellated  fronts  have  been  obliterated  by  the  taste 
of  later  times.  Slwch,  once  the  manor-house  and  principal  residence  of  the 
Awbreys,  is  extinct.  The  Priory,  occupied  by  Col.  Wood,  and  the  pro¬ 
perty  of  the  Marquess  of  Camden,  has  hitherto  preserved  its  respectability. 
A  family  of  note  once  was  settled  at  Pont-Gwylim  (now  a  farm-house,  about 
1  m.  N.  of  the  Priory),  called  the  Havards,  abbreviated  from  Havre  de 
Grace,  the  place  in  Normandy  whence  they  came.  Thomas  Havard  occurs 
as  sheriff  as  late  as  1543,  but  is  described  as  of  Cwrt  Sion  Youny,  a  man¬ 
sion  the  site  of  which  is  on  the  1.  of  the  road  leading  to  Battle,  near  the 
turnpike-house ;  it  appears  to  have  been  surrounded  by  a  moat.  1  m.  w. 
was  Pen’ -nant,  now  in  ruins,  once  the  residence  of  Meredith  Morgan ;  in 
1598  it  was  called  Llwyncelin.  It  became  afterwards  the  property  of  the 
Lewises  and  the  Evanses.  The  ancient  families  of  this  district  are  the 
Williames  of  Abercamlais,  Penpoint,  and  Aberbran ;  Wynters,  Morgans, 
and  Wilkins.  By  application  and  industry,  by  purchases  and  improvement 
of  the  soil,  others  have  risen  to  wealth  and  influence.  Dr.  John  David  Rhys, 
Dr.  Hugh  Price,  and  Mr.  Theophilus  Jones  were  distinguished  natives  of 
this  place. 

Here  are  Alms-houses,  with  a  portion  of  garden  ground  belonging  to 
each,  for  the  residence  of  twelve  female  decayed  housekeepers,  given  by  one 
of  the  family  of  Games,  of  Newton,  which  has  always  been  superintended  by 
the  proprietor  of  Pen-Pont ;  now  Parry  Williams,  Esq.,  lord-lieutenant  for 
the  county.  The  oldest  agricultural  society  in  the  principality  is  held  in  the 
rooms  of  the  institution.  A  theatre  and  race-course,  with  other  accommo¬ 
dations  for  public  amusements,  have  been  formed.  Here  is  also  an  infir¬ 
mary,  to  which  the  late  Lancelot  Morgan,  Esq.,  bequeathed  100/. 

Christ’s  Church  is  separated  from  the  town  of  Brecon  by  the  Usk,  to 
which  part  of  the  ancient  wall,  formerly  surrounding  the  College  precinct, 
nearly  adjoined;  thence  it  continued  directly  southward  to  a  lane  leading 
from  St.  David’s  Church  to  Llanfrynach,  along  which  it  turned  w.  for  a  few 

H 


BRECKNOCK. 


98 

hundred  yards,  then  n.  by  e.  to  the  turnpike-road,  where  it  became 
a  fence  upon  the  south  side  to  the  foot  of  Usk  bridge.  Within  this  nearly 
oblong  square  (which  is  extra-parochial),  are  the  church,  a  dwellings 
house,  once  the  residence  of  two  or  three  bishops  of  St.  David  s ;  a  barn 
and  outhouses,  a  school-room  with  rooms  above,  a  small  cottage  adjoining ; 
2  cottages,  formerly  making  part  of  the  porter’s  lodge ;  3  or  4  more  on 
the  w.  side  of  the  road  leading  from  the  church,  and  5  or  6  pieces  of 
excellent  pasture  and  meadow  ground,  upon  part  of  which  near  the  road 
to  Llanfrynach,  was  formerly  a  fair  wood.’^ 

At  an  early  period  there  was  a  Priory  here  of  Dominicans,  some  of 
whom  were  laymen  ;  also  a  church  belonging  to  the  monastery,  dedicated 
to  St.  Nicholas;  but  when  and  by  whom  founded,  is  uncertain.  Not  a 
name  has  been  transmitted  to  posterity,  except  that  of  Richard  David,  who 
was  the  last  prior,  and  surrendered  it  to  Henry  VIII.  In  1283,  Thomas 
Beck,  bishop  of  St.  David’s,  conceived  the  intention  of  founding  a  similar 
establishment  at  Llangattoc,  in  Carmarthenshire.  This  design  failed,  but 
was  revived  by  Henry  de  Gower,  a  bishop  of  St.  David’s,  resident  at 
Abergwili.  The  various  dignities  which  attached  to  the  church  of  Llan¬ 
gattoc,  continued  in  Abergwili  till  1531,  when  Bishop  Rawlins,  representing 
the  inhabitants  of  Brecon  of  that  time,  as  a  parcel  of  illiterate  and  beggarly 
savages,  ignorant  alike  of  their  duty  to  God  and  man  ;  or,  in  the  regal 
phrase  of  Henry  IV.,  barefooted  rascals,”  prevailed  on  our  dread  sove¬ 
reign  Henry  VIII.,  to  translate  the  corporation  of  Abergwili  to  Brecon, 
and  to  become  the  founder,  or,  as  Hugh  Thomas  calls  him,  the  con- 
founder”  of  Christ’s  college;  in  order  that  the  prelate  or  his  dignitaries 
might  improve  the  morals,  and  amend  the  manners  of  the  king’s  liege 
subjects  in  this  vicinity.  They  continued  in  quiet  possession  of  their 
revenues,  their  bishops  occasionally  residing  among  them  at  this  manse 
near  the  church,  until  the  civil  war  in  the  time  of  Charles  I.,  when  this 
establishment  was  seized  by  the  Puritans,  with  its  plate,  ornaments, 
and  vestments,  and  the  building  nearly  pulled  down.  It  seems  formerly 
to  have  consisted  of  two  aisles  running  the  whole  length  of  the  present 
churchyard,  as  appears  from  the  foundations  of  the  pillars  still  visible. 
In  l66’0,  on  the  restoration  of  the  monarchy.  Dr.  William  Lucy  was 
consecrated  bishop  of  St.  David’s.  He  attended  to  the  rebuilding  of  the 
church,  and  in  l666,  it  w^as  completed  as  it  appears  at  present.  On 
the  1.,  entering  the  church,  was  Awbrey’s  chapel,  separated  from  the  nave 
by  a  wall,  part  of  which  remains.  In  this  partition  was  formerly  an  arch, 
perhaps  supported  by  pillars  upon  each  side,  in  continuation  of  the  range 
whereof  portions  of  the  plinths  appear.  After  the  church  was  nearly 
destroyed  in  the  time  of  Charles  I.,  this  arch  was  filled  up,  and  a  wall  on 
each  side  built,  where  the  pillars  stood.  The  building,  as  it  now  appears, 
formed  only  the  choir  and  chancel  of  the  old  church  ;  it  is  in  length  from 
the  door  to  the  eastern  pine-end  wall,  in  which  there  is  a  magnificent  but 
expensive  Gothic  window,  63  ft.  long,  and  25  in  breadth.  Over  the  door, 
on  entering,  is  a  small  bell,  with  the  following  inscription  upon  it :  — 
VENiTE  ExvLTATE,  LAVR  woMocK  I  REV.  APisc.  .  85.  Upon  the  E.  pine- 
end,  is  a  beautiful  stone  cross,  removed  from  the  ruins  of  the  Awbrey 
Chapel,  and  placed  there  in  1806.  On  entering  the  church,  the  stalls  of 
the  deans  and  prebendaries  are  ranged  on  each  side ;  on  the  r.,  close  to  the 
door,  is  that  of  the  bishop,  having  a  wooden  canopy  over  it,  and  inscribed 
Dominus  Epus  Decanus ;”  after  this,  follow  the  other  stalls  of  the  other 
prebendaries,  upon  which  the  names  of  the  respective  parishes  annexed  to 
their  prebends  are  painted.  A  stone,  forming  the  threshold  under  the 


BRECKNOCK. 


99 

door  at  the  entrance,  bears  an  ornamented  cross,  with  the  following  in¬ 
scription  in  ancient  characters:  —  ‘‘Hie  jacet  Llewelinus  ap  Howel,  cujus 
animsE  propicietur  Deus,  amen.”  Not  far  from  this  last  stone,  is  another, 
upon  which  are  sculptured  the  outlines  of  a  female.  The  traces  of  the 
canopy  over  her  head  are  nearly  obliterated,  and  the  features  of  the  face 
entirely  so.  It  may  commemorate  the  interment  of  the  mother,  wife,  or 
sister  of  Sir  David  Gam.  Another  stone  near  that  of  Morgan  ap  Llywelyn, 
contains  an  inscription  of  greater  antiquity.  The  cross  upon  it  is  plain, 
and  from  the  escallops  on  each  side,  it  may  be  conjectured  that  John  Hill 
of  Almley,  Herefordshire,  made  a  pilgrimage  to  the  Holy  Land,  and  was  a 
friar  of  this  house.  Another  stone  bears  the  name  of  Edward  Games  of 
Tregaer.  In  the  middle  of  the  church  is  a  stone,  with  a  cross  fleury, 
supported  by  a  shield,  with  the  arms  of  Cradoc  ap  Gwilym,  impaling 
Walheoff,  having  an  inscription  round  the  edge,  which  is  continued  in  the 
centre.  Various  other  names  are  recorded.  In  the  s.  wall,  within  the 
communion  rails,  is  an  ambrey  (a  cupboard,  to  hold  sacred  utensils),  and 
a  niche  for  holy  water. 

The  principal  residences  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Brecon,  are  St.John’s 
Mount,  Mrs.  Jones,  n.  w.  of  the  Priory  ;  Ely  Cottage,  Thos.  Bowles, 
Esq.  ;  Fynnoney ,  P.  Williams,  Esq. ;  Ty-mav^r,  C.  C.  Clifton,  Esq. 

Llanddew  is  a  village  lying  in  a  somewhat  detached  situation  upon  the  e. 
bank  of  the  Honddu.  Its  true  etymology  appears  to  be  Llandduw,  “  the 
Church  of  God;”  the  festival  occurs  on  Trinity  Sunday.  This  place  was  the 
seat  of  the  Bishop  of  St.  David’s,  where  the  archdeacon  and  dean  of  Brecon 
had  habitations,  and  where  the  prelate,  with  his  other  dignitaries  and  eccle¬ 
siastical  officers,  resided  occasionally  on  his  visits  to  the  diocese.  The 
church  is  cruciform,  and  one  of  the  earliest  date  in  the  county,  but  is  so 
much  altered,  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  point  out  the  original  parts  of 
the  structure ;  it  consists,  at  present,  of  a  nave  only,  intersected  by  two 
chapels.  The  place  is  dark,  and  the  floor  of  earth  is  uneven,  in  consequence 
of  the  pernicious  practice  of  burying  the  dead  within  the  walls.  The  pews 
are  irregular,  the  windows  lanced  ;  and  the  steeple  massive,  containing 
four  bells.  There  are  no  monuments,  and  but  few  gravestones.  The 
living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  augmented  by  queen  Anne’s  bounty.  The 
road  from  Brynllys  by  Talachddu,  through  this  village  to  Tairdirwen,  and 
thence  to  Aberyscir,  divides  the  church  and  cemetery  from  the  ruins  of  the 
castle :  within  the  area  is  an  arched  well  of  most  excellent  water,  which 
supplied  a  court  on  each  side  of  the  present  wall.  The  site  of  what  appears 
to  have  been  the  castle,  contains  about  an  acre  of  ground,  of  an  oblong 
square  ;  on  the  n.  side,  the  wall  of  what  was  the  chapel,  still  remains,  in 
which  are  three  Gothic  windows  ;  some  of  the  pine  ends  yet  remain,  having 
a  window  in  each.  The  foundation  only  of  the  g.  wall  appears.  There 
are  no  remains  of  the  houses  of  the  archdeacon  or  other  dignitaries.  Ad¬ 
joining  the  manor  is  another  lordship  belonging  to  Walter  Wilkins,  Esq., 
M.  P.,  called  Alexander  stone  and  Mara-mota,  comprehending  parcels  of 
this,  and  two  or  three  other  parishes.  Nearly  adjoining  this  farm-house  is 
Tref-Trahern,  which  formed  one  of  the  mansions  of  Trahern-Fychan, 
Lord  of  Llangrose,  who  was  inhumanly  murdered  by  William  de  Breos. 
In  the  latter  end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  this  lordship  was  purchased 
by  one  of  the  Gwyns  of  Pant-y-corred,  and  is  now  the  property  of  J.  D. 
Llewelyn,  Esq.,  of  Penllergare.  In  this  precinct  occur  specimens  of  the 
best  and  worst  husbandry.  Garthbrengy  parish  lies  on  the  e.  banks  of  the 
Honddu,  about  2^  m.  n.  from  Llanddew,  rising  rather  abruptly  from  the 
Honddu.  The  church  is  surrounded  by  a  few  straggling  cottages,  on  the 

H  2 


100 


BRECKNOCK. 


N.  and  N.E.  side  is  a  hill  or  high  ridge  ;  hence  Garthbrengy  has  been  con¬ 
jectured  to  mean  Gallt-y-bryn -gu^  the  woody  ascent  to  Mount  Pleasant.” 
This  edifice  consists  of  a  nave  and  a  n.  aisle^,  equal  in  breadth  to  the  church, 
separated  by  three  pillars,  and  Gothic  arches  ;  the  roof  is  panelled  with  fret¬ 
work,  and  the  nave  gable-roofed ;  the  pulpit  resembles  the  section  of  a 
tub  ;  near  it  are  the  steps  to  a  rood-loft,  now  taken  down.  Not  far  distant 
is  a  little  bell,  formerly  rung  on  the  idolatrous  elevation  of  the  host,  at  the 
time  of  mass.  The  tower  contains  four  small  musical  bells.  In  the  chancel 
lie  many  of  the  Gwyns. 

On  the  N.  bank  of  the  Usk  occurs  the  junction  Yscir,  called  Aheryscir. 
A  church  stands  upon  the  w.  bank.  A  Sarn-Helen,  in  its  progress  from 
Gaer  to  Neath,  here  united  itself  with  the  Via  Julia,  and  crossed  the  river 
Yscir  higher  up  the  stream,  beyond  the  church.  Thence  proceeded  along, 
or  near,  the  present  road  to  Aberbran,  where  it  crossed  the  Usk,  pursued 
the  turnpike-road  to  within  a  few  yards  of  Capel-Bettws,  where  the  two 
ways  separated,  one  ss.  w.  to  Neath,  the  other  nearly  due  w.  to  Carmarthen. 
This  village  was  once  enlivened  by  the  vicinity  of  Aheryscir  Court.  On  a 
rising  ground  is  Bannium,  a  Roman  camp,  commanding  a  view  of  the 
vale  between  Brecknock  and  Trecastle.  Some  part  of  the  enclosing  wall 
remains,  and  the  foundation  is  entire.  A  quarter  of  a  mile  from  this  place, 
on  the  causeway,  is  Maen~y-morwynion,  which  Camden  and  others  have 
oddly  denominated  the  Maidenstone ;  it  is  supposed  to  represent  a  man 
and  woman. 

To  Merthyr  Cynog,  pass  Battle  Church,  upon  an  eminence  on  the  e. 
side  of  the  Yscir  River,  S  m.  from  Brecon.  It  is  a  low  edifice,  surrounded 
by  a  cemetery,  bounded  by  a  wall.  A  few  straggling  houses  give  this 
place  the  name  of  a  village.  History  has  fixed  this  spot  as  the  scene  of 
action  where  the  fate  of  Brecknockshire  was  decidecl,  on  its  attack  by 
Bernard  Newmarch.  The  indications  of  such  an  event  are,  a  well,  called 
Ffynnon  Pen  Rhys,  a  lane  called  Heol  y  Cymri,  and  a  Maen  Mr,  or  long 
upright  stone,  below  the  church  on  the  s.  side  ;  no  other  vestige  remains  to 
recall  this  event.  m.  eastwards  from  Battle,  appears  the  former  residence 
of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Watkins,  vicar  of  Llandevalle.  From  the  windows  of 
this  house  are  three  most  beautiful  views  ;  on  the  e.,  through  a  small  vista, 
are  seen  the  village  of  Llanddew ;  the  residence  of  David  Gam,  called 
Pen-y-waun,  and  in  the  background  the  black  mountain  beyond  Talgarth  ; 
from  the  library,  in  which  is  a  capital  picture  of  our  Saviour  bearing  the 
cross,  by  Correggio,  looking  w.  is  the  vale  of  Usk,  with  the  highly  orna¬ 
mented  grounds  above  Penpont,  beyond  which  is  Abercamlias,  and  the 
mountains  in  Llywel  and  Devynock,  close  the  scene  ;  nearly  opposite,  is  the 
gradually  rising  knoll  of  Benni,  covered  to  the  top,  and  on  all  sides,  with 
wood,  beyond  which  appear  the  precipitous  and  majestic  summits  of  the 
beacons.)  About  1  m.  further  up  the  banks  of  this  river,  is  the  mansion 
of  the  late  Peter  Chabert,  Esq.,  aid-de-camp  to  Lord  Waldegrave,  at  the 
battle  of  Minden,  and  subsequently  of  his  widow  ;  it  was  erected  about  1 769. 
Merthyr  Cynog,  or  Martyr  Cynog,  lies  about  4  m.  north  of  Mrs.  Chabert’s 
mansion.  Cynog,  or  Cynawg,  was  the  son  of  Brychan.  He  was  slain  or 
murdered  in  one  of  the  early  eruptions  of  the  Saxons  into  W ales  in  the 
fifth  century,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  in  this  parish,  nearly  opposite  Castle 
Madog,  called  Fanoleu,  and,  according  to  Owen,  was  buried  in  Merthyr 
church.  The  edifice  which  remains  does  not  appear  to  be  of  an  earlier 
date  than  the  Norman  sera  ;  it  is  situated  upon  a  lofty  ridge  between  the 
vales  of  Yscir-fawr  and  Yscir-fechan,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  parish. 
It  resembles  a  large  barn,  in  which  some  divisions,  like  pens  of  sheep  thrown 


BRECKNOCK.  lOf 

in  disorderly  regularity  to  roC  when  unfit  for  use.  Among  the  ancient 
tombstones  which  remain,  appear  the  following  names  and  dates :  — 

David  ap  David  Morgan,  1602.  Roger  — - ,  sonne  to  John  ap 

Lien  ap  Morgan  ap  Sir  David  Gam  of  Peyton,  knight,  l600.” 

The  uncultivated  parts  of  this  parish  consist  of  two  districts  —  the  Vale  of 
Honddu,  and  the  Vale  of  Yscir,  the  latter  of  which  diverges  into  two  forks 
or  dells  at  Pontvaen  ;  the  w.  is  called  Yscir-fechan,  and  Yscir-fawr.  These 
vales  have  much  the  same  appearance  as  the  Honddu,  but  are  more  bare 
of  wood  near  their  sources.  Upon  their  junction,  however,  near  Pontvaen, 
the  narrow  glen  in  which  their  united  streams  flow,  becomes  extremely 
picturesque,  and,  in  following  its  numerous  stations,  furnish  studies  for  the 
pencil. 

Though  THE  OLD  ROAD  TO  BuiLTH  docs  uot  supply  the  amusement  of 
a  wider  circuit,  yet  it  contains  some  objects  of  curiosity.  [A  new  route  is 
formed  by  Brynllys  to  Glasbury,  thence  by  Llangoed  to  Aberdw  and  Builth.] 
2  m,  N.  w.  from  Brecon,  is  the  encampment  of  Gaer,  one  of  the  earliest 
stations  of  the  Romans  in  Britannia  secunda,  the  ill-fated  metropolis  of  the 
unfortunate  Bleddin  ap  Maenarch,  and  the  parent  of  Brecknock.  It  is 
situated  upon  the  angle  between  the  river  Usk  and  Yscir,  commanding  a 
view  of  the  former,  and  is  a  parallelogram  of  624  ft.  by  456.  The  found¬ 
ation  of  the  wall  which  bounds  this  area,  remains  entire,  and  even  the  ruins 
of  it  above  ground,  are,  in  some  places,  particularly  on  the  n.  and  e.  sides, 
from  3  to  6  ft.  high  ;  part  of  the  facings  is  still  perfect ;  the  thickness  of 
the  walls  is  near  7-|  ft.  ;  it  is  in  every  respect  similar  to  the  walls  of  Caer- 
leon  and  Caerwent ;  the  farm  house  and  offices  are  built  on  the  n.  w.  angle 
of  this  camp.  This  account  appears  in  the  English  Archaiology,  vol.  i., 
written  by  Mr,  Strange.  At  present  the  walls  are  much  overgrown,  and, 
in  some  places,  concealed  by  underwood.  The  whole  area  is  covered  with 
fragments  of  brick,  one  inscribed  Leg.  II.  Aug.,  is  possessed  by  the  pro¬ 
prietor  of  the  soil,  and  some  coins  of  Nero  and  Trajan.  Maen  y  Mor- 
wynion,  or  the  Stone  of  the  Maids,  is  yet  standing  on  the  r.  side,  near  the 
hedge,  in  passing  from  Brecon  to  Gaer.  There  is  no  account  of  it  either 
in  Leland,  Camden,  or  any  of  the  great  antiquaries.  It  occurs  on  the 
side  of  the  road,  just  opposite  the  view  of  Llandyfaelog  on  the  r.  It 
is  now  fixed  in  the  ground,  though  it  was  dug  up  some  years  back,  in 
hopes  of  making  discoveries,  but  without  any  success.  The  lower  part  of 
the  inscription  only  is  visible.  It  represents  a  Roman  citizen  and  his  wife 
each  having  an  arm  over  the  shoulder  of  the  other,  and  the  inscription  seems 
to  have  run  thus  :  —  Alancina  civis,  et  conjunx  ejus,  h.  s.  (probably 
hie  sepultus)  est.'’  There  is  a  cross-lane  leading  from  Pool  to  a  gate  upon 
the  old  Roman  way,  about  100  or  150  yards  e.  of  Maen  y  Morwynion. 
The  British  intrenchment  at  Coed  fenni,  is  probably  of  higher  antiquity 
than  even  the  Roman  camp,  but  it  is  now  concealed  by  trees,  and  its  foss 
and  other  vestiges  defaced.  Pen-y-erug,  or  the  summit  of  the  mount,  is 
another  intrenchment  not  far  distant.  It  is  of  an  oval  figure,  and  sur¬ 
rounded  with,  three  very  deep  ditches.  It  appears  to  be  one  of  the  most 
curious  and  best  preserved  remains  of  the  kind.  In  contains  within  its 
area  200  yards,  running  n.  and  s.  by  144 ;  the  w.  and  s.  w.  sides  are  nearly 
precipitous  ;  the  ditches  are  5  or  6  yards  in  depth.  The  entrance  is  from 
the  s.  E.  Upon  an  eminence  opposite  to  this,  e.  of  Brecknock,  called  Slwch, 
formerly  Penginger,  or  Pen-cefn-y-gaer ,  is  another  British  camp,  of  nearly 
the  same  form,  but  not  of  equal  dimensions,  with  a  double  foss,  in  some 
places  nearly  destroyed. 

The  church  of  Llandyfaelog  occurs  2^  m.  on  the  way  to  Builth,  on  the  bank 

H  3 


102 


BRECKNOCK. 


of  the  Honddu.  Like  most  of  the  edifices  for  religious  purposes  in  this 
country  it  is  barn-roofed  and  unceiled  ;  it  consists  of  a  nave  only,  with  a 
tower  at  the  w.  end,  in  which  are  4  hells.  The  gravestones  hear  the  names 
of  the  Towels  of  Castle  Madog,  the  Prytherch  of  this  place.  Upon  a  stone 
forming  the  threshold  at  the  entrance  are  rudely  cut  the  following  letters, 
CAT  VC.  Cattwg  or  Cadocus.  Against  the  steeple  of  the  church  is  another 
relic  of  early  days.  It  is  an  upright  stone,  2^  yards  high,  and  across  its 
broadest  part,  4|  feet.  It  has  been  denominated  by  different  antiquaries, 
Roman,  British,  and  Saxon.  Tradition  has  placed  it  upon  the  grave  of 
Brochwell  Yseythrog.  Mr.  Jones  infers,  from  the  legend  called  Cognacio 
Brychan,  preserved  in  the  Cottonian  Library,  and  copied  in  the  appendix 
to  his  first  volume  of  the  History  of  Brecknockshire,  that  it  is  the  place  of 
interment  of  Rhain,  surnamed  Dremrudd,  one  of  the  sons  of  Brychan. 
To  this  church  belongs  a  chapel  of  ease,  lately  rebuilt,  principally  at  the 
expense  of  one  of  the  Towels  of  Castel  Madog,  situated  also  on  the  road  to 
Builth,  called  Llanfihangel  fechan  (St.  Michael’s  the  Lesser,  and  sometimes 
the  Lower  Chapel),  2^  m.  This  is  a  light  neatly  ceiled  structure,  the 
floor  well  flagged  and  surrounded  by  a  walled  cemetery,  containing  inscrip¬ 
tions  in  memory  of  the  Towels  of  Castel  Madog.  The  old  road  passes  over 
Epping  Hill. 

Gwenffrwd,  or  Wann-y-ffrwd,  the  meadow  of  the  torrent,  seems  no 
way  descriptive  of  the  situation  of  this  mansion,  now  a  farm-house.  It 
was  formerly  possessed  by  the  descendants  of  Bleddin  ap  Maenarch  for 
several  centuries.  On  the  w.  side  of  Llandyfaelog,  near  the  commencement 
of  its  s.  boundary,  and  thence  in  a  line  to  the  n.w.,  is  a  common,  or  waste 
land,  near  which  is  a  tenement  called  Sarnau,  whence  Mr.  Jones  conjectures 
that  a  Sarn  Helen  pursued  its  course  from  Gaerfach  to  Cwm  in  Llanyre, 
along  this  ridge,  entering  the  parish  of  Merthyr  Cynog,  leaving  the  summit 
of  the  mountain  as  it  rises,  and  the  vale  of  Honddu  on  the  e.,  taking  a 
direction  nearly  n.  to  s.,  until  it  crossed  the  river  and  the  road  from  Brecon 
to  Maes-y-genfFordd,  about  1  m.  beyond  the  Upper  chapel,  where  its  remains 
are  still  visible,  running  in  a  straight  line  towards  Maes-mynis.  In  the 
vale  of  Honddu,  when  we  come  near  Llanfihangel-fechan  chapel,  the  horizon 
of  the  Vanoleu  forms  a  kind  of  amphitheatre,  the  ascent  rising  almost  pre¬ 
cipitously  ;  at  the  same  time  a  cottage  appears  to  cling  to  the  side  of  the 
mountain  near  the  top.  To  the  1.  is  a  beautiful  knoll,  covered  with  wmod ; 
near  to  the  summit  on  the  r.  is  a  projecting  rock,  which  completes  the 
landscape.  Beyond  Llanfihangel-fechan  on  the  r.  is  Castel  Madog,  perhaps 
so  called  from  Madog  the  third  son  of  David  ap  Rhys-y-ddimau.  It  was 
erected  in  1588  by  Thomas  Towel,  who  married  the  daughter  of  Watkin 
Faughan.  Before  this  time  it  was  a  castellated  mansion,  with  a  keep  for 
prisoners  upon  an  elevated  artificial  mound,  the  latter  of  which  still  remains 
adjoining  the  farmyard.  The  last  of  the  Towels  were  three  children,  who  all 
died  single.  The  survivor,  Catherine,  devised  the  property,  charged  with 
annuities,  to  the  Rev.  Hugh  Trice,  son  of  her  aunt,  and  afterwards  to  his 
son,  of  the  same  name.  After  passing  the  woods  near  Castel  Madog,  the 
remainder  of  the  valley  is  principally  tillage  ground.  At  Capel,  Dyffryn 
Honddu,  or  Upper  Chapel,  the  Honddu  is  joined  by  another  stream,  of 
nearly  the  same  size,  called  Llogin,  whence  the  dingle  is  crossed  by  the  road 
to  Builth,  which  separates  from  the  road  to  Maes-y-genfFord  on  Rhds-y- 
Capel,  about  ]  ra.  beyond  the  chapel,  and  diverges  to  the  n.  e.  Following 
for  a  short  distance,  a  dell  called  Cwni  Bogin  (or  Cwm  Halogyn)  we  pene¬ 
trate  into  the  mountains  which  form  one  half  of  this  parish ;  a  tract  on 
which  scarcely  a  house  is  to  be  seen,  except  a  few  cots  at  the  head  of  the 


BRECKNOCK. 


103 


Honddu_,  called  Pentre-dolau-honddu,  The  right  of  common  is  the  princi¬ 
pal  advantage  here,  as  the  holders  of  small  farms  raise  very  little  more  corn 
than  will  supply  their  own  families. 

Llangynog,  or  St.  Cynog  lies  on  the  r.  The  church  is  a  modern  build¬ 
ing,  placed  in  an  exposed  mountainous  district.  The  verdure  of  Llandde- 
wi’r  cwm  makes  its  appearance  some  weeks  before  the  russet  or  snow  has 
disappeared  from  this  howling  region.  Llanddewi  r-cwm,  or  St  David’s 
in  the  Vale,  has  nothing  attractive  in  its  appearance.  Two  families  of 
opulence  resided  here  in  the  17th  century,  one  a  branch  of  the  Lloyds  of 
Caerau,  the  other  a  Vaughan  of  Aberdihonw.  The  river  Dihonw  falling 
into  the  Wye  near  this  house,  is  a  corruption  (according  to  Mr.  Theophilus 
Jones)  of  Du-hawn-wy.  The  land  in  this  parish  is  chiefly  arable,  and  it 
contains  several  luxuriant  groves.  A  little  further  on  the  1.  is  Maes-mynis, 
a  lowly  structure,  situated  upon  an  eminence,  between  the  rivers  Yrfon  and 
Dihonw ;  the  ceiling  is  divided  by  cross  ribs,  and  boards  are  placed  under 
the  tile,  formed  into  72  panels,  on  each  of  which  are  two  lions  sejant,  with 
scrolls  under  them,  with  the  words  Nal  or  Nor  is  this,”  in  German  text. 
The  parsonage  house  and  barn  adjoin  the  churchyard. 

Within  1  m.  of  Builth,  at  the  foot  of  another  hill,  there  is  an  old  bridge 
over  the  Dihonw,  which  unites  with  the  W ye  at  Aberdihonw.  On  the  1. 
is  a  very  considerable  fissure  in  the  rock,  through  the  portal  of  which  the 
river  forces  its  way  in  a  foaming  cascade. 

To  Hay,  about  the  Sdm.  Talachddu,  the  church  of  which  place  is  neatly 
ceiled,  and  tolerably  flagged  and  seated,  with  a  clumsy  tower,  in  which  are 
three  bells.  Part  of  the  rood-loft  as  well  as  the  steps  remain.  A  branch  of 
the  Lewises  of  Ffrwdgrech  formerly  settled  here,  and  possessed  the  advow- 
son  of  the  living.  Llan-y-wern  (the  Church  in  the  Swamp)  lies  about  the 
same  distance  from  the  road  on  the  r.  This  small  chapel  is  not  ceiled,  but 
has  the  common  transverse  ribs  under  the  tile ;  it  is  tolerably  flagged  and 
has  a  shed  over  the  bell.  Under  the  communion  table  are  some  tombstones. 
Previous  to  crossing  the  Treffrwd  Brook,  Llanfillo  lies  1  m.  to  the  r.  The 
church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Milburg,  eldest  daughter  of  Merwald  king  of 
Mercia,  and  abbess  of  Wenlock,  Shropshire,  where  she  was  interred.  The 
feast  here  is  on  the  first  Monday  in  March  annually.  This  fabric,  sur¬ 
rounded  by  a  few  houses,  has  a  clumsy  ill-built  steeple,  containing  three 
bells.  In  the  front  are  twelve  niches  or  spaces  probably  once  occupied  by 
statues  of  the  twelve  apostles.  An  eminence  called  Alltfillo  w.  of  the  church, 
where  there  is  a  British  camp  of  great  extent,  forming  an  elongated  circle 
upon  the  summit  of  the  hill.  It  is  208  yards  long,  and  46  broad.  A  foss 
surrounds  it.  A  little  vr.  is  a  smaller  eminence,  appearing  to  have  been  a 
Disgwylfa,  or  station  of  a  sentinel,  fortified  by  an  intrenchment.  Cross 
the  Talachddu  Brook,  at  the  fourth  m.  from  Brecon.  Pass  11^  m.,  and  1  m. 
to  the  1.  is  Treharried,  erected  by  Wm.  Parry,  or  William  ap  Harry  Faughan, 
about  the  middle  of  the  1 7th  century,  at  present  the  inheritance  of  Joseph 
Bailey,  Esq.  This  bouse  is  situated  in  hollow  ground,  to  which  we  descend 
abruptly  on  all  sides  except  the  e.  Having  been  for  many  years  in  the 
hands  of  tenants,  it  is  consequently  in  an  indifferent  state  of  repair.  The 
lower  rooms  contained  some  goodportraits  j  anegro,withthewords,  ‘^‘^moro  per 
la  partitia;  ”  General  Faughan  in  armour,  dated  1560  ;  an  admirable  por¬ 
trait  in  sashed  sleeves  ;  a  female  in  the  habit  of  a  nun.  In  the  chambers 
were  portraits  of  Sir  John  Hawkins,  1591^  and  of  his  lady.  Llandyfalle  lies 
at  a  short  distance  n.  of  Treharried.  The  church  consists  of  a  nave  of 
about  60  or  70  ft.  in  length,  a  narrow  aisle  on  the  s.,  and  a  chancel  20  or 
30  ft.  long.  In  the  steeple  are  five  bells.  The  subject  in  the  window  of 

H  4 


104 


BRECKNOCK. 


the  8.  aisle^  is  the  crucifixion,  beautifully  coloured  ;  and  in  some  others 
occurs  painted  glass.  The  tombstones  are  rather  numerous.  A  piece 
of  plate  was  lately  presented  to  Mr.  John  Williams,  by  a  few  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Llandyfalle,  and  its  vicinity,  as  a  token  of  regard  for  his 
charitable  and  humane  conduct  towards  the  poor,  in  alleviating  their  dis¬ 
tresses,  and  administering  medicines  to  them  gratuitously,  during  the  18 
years  he  resided  among  them;  also  for  having  been  the  means  of  instituting 
a  Free  School,  for  the  education  of  the  poor  children  of  the  parish.”  Upon 
an  eminence,  being  part  of  a  farm  called  Pwl-y-lewrw,  in  Llandyfalle,  are 
the  vestiges  of  a  small  British  encampment ;  upon  the  n.  confines  of  this 
parish  is  another,  and  in  a  lane  running  nearly  e.  and  w.,  called  Heol 
Einion  (but  more  generally  Pen-yr-heol  Einion,  on  the  side  of  which, 
near  a  gate  leading  to  Cricadarn),  is  a  stone  of  about  4  ft.  high,  by  some 
supposed  sepulchral,  by  others  as  marking  the  boundary  of  Einions 
property,  probably  Einion  Glyd,  Lord  of  Elfel.  Returning  to  the  road 
1  m.,  upon  the  r.  is  Tre  Gunter,  or  Gunter  Stone,  Mrs.  Maddox,  a  lordship 
given  by  Bernard  Newmarch  to  Sir  Peter  Gunter,  or  Gauntd’or.  This 
family  removed  hence  to  Gilestone,  in  Llanfigan,  after  seven  generations,  and 
continued  in  the  male  line  till  l683,  when  it  failed  in  most  of  the  collateral 
branches.  The  present  mansion  of  Tre  Gunter  was  built  about  176'4_,  by 
Thomas  Harris,  who  purchased  the  estate,  and  devised  it  to  Mrs.  Hughes, 
the  daughter  and  heiress  of  his  elder  brother,  Joseph  Harris.  This  family 
of  Harris,  was  originally  of  Carmarthenshire,  but  settled  at  Talgarth  about 
1700.  The  oldest  brother,  Joseph,  wrote  several  astronomical  and  mathe¬ 
matical  treatises,  held  an  office  in  the  Mint,  and  was  esteemed  by  the  learned 
and  great  of  his  day ;  yet  has  not  one  biographer  deigned  to  write  his  life. 
Superior  to  the  love  of  fame,  he  forbore  to  have  his  name  printed  upon  his 
books.  It  appears  from  the  inscription  upon  his  monument  in  Talgarth 
church,  that  ‘^‘^he  invented  many  mathematical  instruments,  and  his  political 
talents  were  well  known  to  the  ministers  in  power  in  his  days,  who  failed 
not  to  improve  on  all  the  wise  and  learned  ideas  which  greatness  of  mind, 
candour,  with  love  of  his  country,  led  him  to  communicate.  His  reward  is 
in  heaven.’’  Of  Thomas  Harris  it  is  said,  that  his  decease  was  a  great 
loss  to  the  neighbourhood,  as  in  him  the  poor  always  found  a  most  boun¬ 
tiful  benefactor,  his  heart  and  mansion  being  ever  open  to  the  feelings  of 
humanity.”  The  youngest  brother,  Howel  Harris,  was  more  singular ; 
born  at  Trevecca,  1713,  placed  at  school  by  his  parents  at  the  age  of  18, 
and  destined  for  the  church  ;  in  Nov.  1735,  he  entered  St.  Mary’s  Hall, 
Oxford,  continued  only  one  term,  applied  soon  after  for  orders,  but  was 
rejected.  In  1744  he  married  Anne,  daughter  of  John  William,  Esq.,  of 
Skreen,  by  whom  he  had  a  daughter,  who  married  Mr.  Charles  Pritchard, 
of  Brecon,  surgeon.  In  1752  he  laid  the  foundation  of  Trevecca  house. 
Many,  to  support  this  establishment,  contributed  largely,  and  others  sold 
their  all  to  reside  among  the  family  at  that  place ;  employing  themselves  in 
carding  and  spinning.  To  appreciate  so  eccentrically  amiable  a  character 
is  difficult ;  the  ambition  of  being  the  leader  of  a  sect,  became  his  ruling 
passion.  Some  ascribed  to  him  the  base  intention  of  enriching  himself  at 
the  expense  of  his  followers,  but  his  will  proved  the  reverse.  Let  Charity, 
therefore,  draw  a  veil  over  his  infirmities,  and  hope  that  his  heart  was  right, 
though  his  judgment  was  wrong.  Though  he  reared  this  fabric  with  care, 
and  devised  it  to  trustees,  in  order  that  it  might  continue  to  be  applied  to  the 
religious  and  charitable  purposes  he  intended,  yet  it  is  decaying  rapidly. 

Mr.  Harris  was  warmly  supported  by  Selina,  the  late  Countess-dowager 
of  Huntingdon,  who  resided  principally  at  a  house  called  Tre-fecca-isof 


BRECKNOCK. 


105 


near  Tre-dustan  courts  which  was  adapted  for  the  instruction  of  young 
men  designed  for  preachers.  This  house  gives  name  to  the  hamlet  of 
Trevecca,  meaning  Rebecca’s- home^”  from  an  heiress  of  the  name  of  Re¬ 
becca  Prosser,  who  built  it.  Having  crossed  the  Treffrwd-brook,  1^  m. 
appears  Brynllys  (the  Brow  near  the  Court),  fi  m. ;  it  is  a  small  village, 
about  half-way  from  Brecon  to  Hay.  The  church  is  a  very  ordinary 
edifice ;  the  steeple,  containing  5  bells,  is  detached  and  placed  at  the  e.  end. 
The  Castle  of  Brynllys,  according  to  Mr.  King,  in  his  3d  vol.  of  Ohs.  on  An¬ 
cient  Castles,  is  of  Syrian  architecture.  At  Brynllys  has  been  found, 
as  at  Launceston,  the  remains  of  a  keep  or  tower  of  a  singular  con¬ 
struction,  unlike  anything  Roman  or  Norman.  Its  situation  seems  to  cor¬ 
respond  with  Charden’s  account  of  the  subordinate  kind  of  Median  or 
Mingrelian  ancient  eastern  castles.  In  latter  ages  it  has  been  surrounded 
with  magnificent  edifices,  all  of  which  have  perished,  while  this  tower  has 
defied  the  power  of  time,  and  remained,  as  at  first,  insulated  and  perma¬ 
nent.  It  is  built,  in  part,  of  small  hewn  stone  ;  and  though  it  does  not  stand 
upon  a  high  conical  hill,  yet  seems  to  have  been  placed  upon  a  small 
artificial  mount  formed  of  stone,  on  a  little  rise  of  ground  beneath.  At 
the  bottom  of  this  mount  appears  a  modern  forced  entrance,  made  with 
great  difficulty,  by  way  of  breach.  The  original  door  of  this  structure  is 
much  higher,  composed  of  2  pieces  of  stone  bending  so  as  to  meet  at  the 
top  in  a  kind  of  arch.  The  river  Llyfni  fiows  by  this  fortress.  Mr.  T. 
Jones  thinks  this  castle  was  built  by  William  the  Conqueror  in  his  expe¬ 
dition  into  Wales,  in  1079  ^iid  1080,  and  afterwards  repaired  and  gar¬ 
risoned  by  William  Rufus.  In  l608  it  appears  that  the  castle  of  Brynllys 
was  the  property  of  Sir  Robert  Knollys,  in  right  of  his  wife  who  was  .of  the 
Porthaml  family  ;  he  conveyed  it  early  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  to  a  Cecil 
of  Alt-yr-ynis.  About  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  Thomas  Cecil  sold 
the  castle  and  lands  to  Win.  Morgan  of  Llangasty-tal-y-llyn,  M.D.,  one  of 
the  Morgans  of  Wenallt  in  Llanddetty,  who,  by  his  will  1737^  devised  them 
to  Edward  Williams,  Esq.  of  Llangattoc  Court,  whose  son,  Edward  Wil¬ 
liams  of  Llangeny,  in  1752,  again  sold  the  castle  and  lands  to  Francis 
Lewis  of  Llanelly,  by  whom  it  was  transferred  to  Mr.  William  Davies. 
Talgarth  lies  1  m.  to  the  r.  of  Brynllys,  and  9  from  Brecon.  This 
parish  contains  a  decayed  borough,  without  privilege,  jurisdiction,  or 
municipal  officers.  The  church  is  superior  to  most  in  the  county  ;  it 
consists  of  2  aisles,  which  are  ceiled  and  flagged  ;  it  is  rather  low ;  the 
tower  contains  6  bells  ;  and  solidity  rather  than  elegance  predominates  in 
the  construction.  The  building  on  the  n.  side  intended  for  a  school  or 
vestry,  is  now  used  for  a  lumber-room.  The  inscriptions  to  the  memory  of 
the  dead  are  numerous  ;  among  which  is,  upon  the  n.  wall  of  the  chancel, 
a  monument  with  a  long  inscription  to  the  memory  of  Howel  Harris  Tre¬ 
vecca,  who  died  July  23.  1773. 

Cross  the  Llyfni  river,  and  2^  miles  beyond  Brynllys  Castle,  pass  the 
Lodge  on  the  r.  (On  the  1.  to  Builth  on  the  banks  of  the  Wye.)  1  m. 
further  Pipton  Chapel  on  the  r. 

A  little  further  on  the  r.  is  Gldsbury  (Colonel  Wood,  M.  P.  for  the 
county),  pronounced  Glazebury,  situate  in  the  counties  of  Brecon  and 
Radnor  ;  in  British  Y  Clas,  the  green  or  verdant  inclosure.”  This  is 
an  excellent  fishing  station.  W.  Sneyd,  Esq.,  lately  took  in  three  days  24 
splendid  salmon,  one  of  v/hich  measured  4  feet  in  length,  and  1  foot  10|- 
inches  in  girth,  weighing  29^  lbs.  The  site  of  the  former  parish  church 
may  still  be  seen  near  the  fall  of  the  Llyfni  into  the  Wye,  where  a  few 
yew  trees  remain.  The  modern  church  was  finished  about  the  year 


106 


BRECKNOCK. 


1665,  in  a  close,  which  is  in  the  county  of  Radnor,  given  by  Sir  Henry 
Williams  of  Gwernyfet,  called  Close- dan-Coed-y-Bolyn_,  ‘^‘the  close  under 
the  pole-wood.^’  It  stands  upon^  shelving  ground  on  the  s.  side  of  the 
road,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  chancel  only,  with  a  heavy  tower,  in  which 
are  six  bells  ;  below  is  a  school-room.  The  inscriptions  are  to  the  memory 
of  the  Sobers,  Gunters,  Williamses,  Watkinses,  &c.  Upon  an  eminences, 
of  the  church  opposite  Pipton,  are  intrenchments,  formerly  surrounding  a 
British  camp  called  Gaer ;  but  not  a  vestige  remains  of  any  mansion 
which  belonged  the  Norman  conquerors  who  settled  in  this  neighbourhood. 
The  Solers,  or  de  Solariis,  had  great  property  here  until  the  middle  of  the 
17th  century.  A  farm-house  and  some  cottages  are  still  called  Pentre 
Solers,  or  Solerville.  The  Powels  and  Williamses  were  ancient  families 
resident  in  this  parish. 

Tregoid  a  mile  s.e.  of  Glasbury,  in  English  Woodtown,  or  Wotton,  is 
the  residence  of  Lo7'd  Hereford.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  during 
the  reign  of  Elizabeth  by  a  family  of  the  name  of  W atkins,  and  descended 
to  Pryce  DevereuoCy  Esq.,  of  Montgomery,  an  ancestor  of  the  present 
possessor. 

To  Hay,  4  m.  Cross,  by  the  way,  the  brook  at  Nant-y-scallen  and 
Digedi.  A  tram-road  from  Brecon  to  Hay  was  completed  June,  1816. 

To  CniCKHowEL,  reach  Llanhamlecli,  3  m.  The  church  is  stationed 
upon  a  slate  rock ;  rebuilt  in  1804,  except  the  steeple.  Near  Llanhamlecli 
church  is  Peterstone,  an  elegant  mansion,  delightfully  situated  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Usk,  the  seat  of  Thomas  Harcourt  Powell,  Esq.,  built  upon 
the  site  of  an  old  house,  long  the  residence  of  a  branch  of  the  W albeoffe 
family,  brought  into  the  county  by  Bernard  Newmarch.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Usk  are  some  inconsiderable  remains  of  Pencelly  Castle.  The 
estates  have  been  held  by  the  Mortimers,  Despensers,  Staffords,  Devereux, 
and  Herberts,  and  since  by  Thynne  Howe  Gwynne,  Esq.,  of  Buck- 
land.  Adjoining  Llansanffraed  is  a  farm  called  Mannest,  or  Cwm,  Anest 
(Nest,  or  Agnes’  dingle),  formerly  belonging  to  the  family  of  Walbeoffe. 
From  this  cwm  the  ground  rises  to  Mannest,  and  about  ^  m.  w.  becomes  a 
considerable  hill,  upon  the  summit  of  which  stands  Maen  Illtyd  or  Iltutus. 
This  was  composed,  according  to  Gough,  of  four  flattish  stones,  three 
of  them  pitched  in  the  ground,  and  the  fourth  laid  upon  them  as  a  covering, 
about  8  feet  long  and  4  feet  wide  and  high.  Upon  the  two  sides  are  a  variety 
of  crosses.  It  is  of  Druidic  age,  and  corresponds  with  Kett’s  Cottyhouse,  in 
Kent,  and  the  cells  in  Rollvich,  Abury,  &c.  Such  is  the  account  of  Gough. 
The  historian  of  Brecknockshire  says,  This  venerable  relique  of  antiquity 
is  but  a  very  small  cromlech,  the  two  stones  6  feet  asunder  ;  at  the  height  of 
one  yard  from  the  ground,  the  crosses  appear  such  as  might  be  made  with 
a  tenpenny  nail.  It  is  most  probable  this  may  have  been  a  beacon,  or  a 
watch-tower,  and  afterwards  converted  into  the  hermitage  of  the  holy  Illtyd.’’ 
At  a  little  distance  is  a  well  called  Ffynnon  Illtyd.  Nearly  due  n.  from 
Ty  Illtyd  is  the  ruinous  chapel,  and  almost  equally  ruinous  village,  of 
IJechfaen,  or  Llanhamlech-faen,  which  fell  in  I7OO. 

Seethrog  is  the  residence  of  M.  Powell,  Esq.,  1^  m.  It  was  once  the 
inheritance  of  the  Pychards  j  then  of  the  Williames,  and  Vaughans.  The 
present  house  was  not  erected  upon  the  site  of  the  ancient  residence,  which 
stood  where  the  mansion-house,  now  converted  into  a  farm-house  called  the 
Tower,  is  seen  at  present.  Part  of  the  walls  of  the  old  edifice  still  remain. 
Its  name  indicates  that  it  was  castellated,  and  was  undoubtedly  surrounded 
by  a  moat.  Llansanffraed,  juxta  Usk  (the  church  of  Sancta  Freda,  Ffraid 
Lian,  Bridget,  the  Virgin,  or  St.  Bride,  or  Bridget),  l  ^  m.  The  church  is 


BRECKNOCK. 


107 


situated  6  m.,  close  upon  the  turnpike-road ;  the  steeple^  containing  one 
bell,  resembles  a  bee-hive  turned  upwards ;  it  was  rebuilt  in  I69O.  The 
Roman  road  from  Caerleon  to  Bonni  runs  the  whole  length  of  Llansan- 
ffraed  parish,  from  Cathedine  in  the  e.  to  Llanhamlech  on  the  w.,  and  upon 
the  highway  side,  -i  m.  e.  of  Seethrog,  is  the  stone  described  by  Camden, 
which  commemorates  the  interment  of  a  son  of  Victorinus,  whose  name  is 
now  effaced.  It  was  formerly  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  but  when  that 
was  enlarged  it  was  removed  to  the  hedge  on  the  right  hand  side.  The 
little  dingle  at  the  bottom  of  which  it  stood  is  called  Lanedd-cwm-gelanedd, 
“the  Dell  of  Slaughter.”  On  the  1.,  l^m.,\\e^Llangasty-tal-y-llyn.  Cross¬ 
ing  to  this  place  n.  from  Llansanffraed  church,  ascend  an  abrupt  eminence 
called  Allt-yr-ys-grin.  From  this  summit  the  prospect  is  worth  examining. 
Upon  the  s.  lies  the  vale  of  Usk,  with  its  surpentine  river ;  to  the  w.  is 
Brecon  and  the  adjacent  country,  terminated  by  Bwlch  Aberbran  n.  catch 
a  glimpse  of  Pontiwal,  Trephilip,  and  the  country  about  Talgarth,  and  in 
the  background  the  Radnorshire  hills.  Contracting  the  view'  to  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  the  beautiful  lake  Llyn-safaddan  appears  surrounded  by  the  pleas¬ 
ing  village  of  Llanjihangel-tahy-llyn^  the  churches  of  Llangasty  and  Cathe¬ 
dine,  the  ruins  of  Blanllyfni,  and  the  church  and  village  of  Llangorse,  The 
church  of  St.  Gastayn,  said  to  have  been  the  spiritual  instructor  of  Cynog, 
eldest  son  of  Brychan,  is  at  the  foot  of  this  hill,  and  close  to  the  lake.  It 
is  a  small  but  neat  edifice,  the  tower  containing  four  bells.  In  this  parish 
are  two  mansions  once  of  great  eminence,  Tallyn  House  and  Tt'ehinshwn. 
The  first  was  the  manor-house,  and  the  residence  of  Gwrgan  ap  Bleddin  ap 
Maenarch  Bernard  Newmareh,  the  Walheoffes,  the  Parry s,  Davieses,  which 
last  sold  the  estate  to  Philip  Campion  Crespigny,  Esq. 

Trebinshwn,  Tref-pen-Sion,  or  Pentre  Sion,  Johnston  or  John’s  villa,  was 
anciently  the  patrimony  of  Watkins  of  Llangorse.  A  family  of  Jones  sold 
it  to  J.  Williams,  and  he  again  to  James,  land  valuer  and  surveyor  :  it  after¬ 
wards  became  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Coxe.  At  the  e.  end  of  Llyn-safaddan 
formerly  stood  the  castle  of  Blaen-llyfni,  of  which  some  fragments  only 
remain,  in  a  small  dell,  upon  the  borders  of  a  swamp.  When  and  by  whom 
built  cannot  be  ascertained.  “  In  sum  auncient  writing,”  says  Leland, 

this  castel  was  caullid  Everi  castel,  and  Lleveni  water  caullid  Everi-brooke. 
The  honor  of  Blaen  Lleveni  standing  in  a  valley  ys  in  the  Walsche  Tale- 
garth,  where  there  is  yet  the  shape  of  a  veri  fair  castel  now  dekeiyng,  and 
by  was  a  borow  town  now  also  in  decay,  both  longged  to  the  Erie  of 
Marche.” 

About  1  m.  N.  of  this  castle  is  Cathedine.  The  church  is  sometimes  called 
Llanfihangel  Cathedine,  and  its  structure  is  of  the  most  ordinary  kind.  The 
lake  Llyn-safaddan  called  also  Langorse,  Brecknoeh-pool,  and  Welshpool. 
Concerning  its  origin  a  most  marvellous  story  is  recorded  in  the  Harleian 
MSS.,  6831.  This  beautiful  sheet  of  water  is  about  two  miles  in  length, 
one  in  breadth,  and  five  in  circumference.  It  is  broadest  between  the 
churches  of  Llangasty-tall-y-llyn  and  Llangorse,  and  takes  a  sweep  or  curve 
as  it  approaches  towards  the  source  of  the  Llyfni,  or  “  Lake- Water,”  which 
runs  through  the  middle.  The  general  depth  is  10  feet,  greatest  depth  12 
or  15  yards.  The  approach  to  the  shore  is  so  gradual,  that  flat-bottomed 
boats  only  can  be  used.  Three  or  four  ordinary  ones  of  this  description  are 
sometimes  used  by  parties  of  pleasure.  The  fish  of  this  lake  are  pike,  perch, 
and  fat  muddy  eels,  Anguillis  lutosis,  sometimes  of  enormous  size.  The 
Llyfni  contains  trout,  but  they  either  do  not  like  the  water  of  the  lake,  or 
the  voracious  pike  deters  them  from  approaching  his  territories.  The  pike 
have  been  known  to  weigh  SO  or  40  pounds  each,  but  are  deemed  inferior 


108 


BRECKNOCK.  ^ 


in  flavour  to  those  of  the  Wye ;  the  perch  are  generally  five  or  six  to  the 
pounds  but  there  have  been  instances  of  some  weighing  3  pounds  each.  The 
dorsal  fin  of  this  fisli^  armed  with  little  lances^  protects  him  from  the  attack 
of  the  fresh-water  shark.  The  thawing  of  the  ice  in  this  pool  is  attended 
with  an  uncommon  noise.  Upon  the  sides^  for  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  shore,  are  reeds  of  different  kinds,  but  principally  the  Arundo  Phrag- 
mites,  which  is  of  a  luxuriant  growth  and  great  beauty.  The  surrounding 
scenery  is  pleasingly  varied,  and  from  the  higher  grounds  are  some  fine 
prospects  over  the  distant  country.  Llanfihangel-tal-y-llyn^  St.  Michael’s 
at  the  head  of  the  Lake,  is  a  whitened  sepulchre,  containing  within  little 
that  is  attractive.  Regaining  the  road  to  Crickhowel,  Buckland,  the  man¬ 
sion  of  the  late  Roderick  Gwynne,  Esq.,  father  of  the  present  proprietor. 
Within  a  mile  of  Crickhowel,  on  the  1.  of  the  road,  was  formerly  an  ancient 
chapel,  called  Llanfair.  A  field  not  far  from  the  site  of  this  fabric  is  called 
Cae-y-crochenydd^  or  ‘‘  the  Potter’s  Field,”  anciently  used,  according  to  tradi¬ 
tion,  to  bury  strangers  in.  In  a  close  adjoining  is  a  high  artificial  mound, 
covered  with  underwood,  considered  by  some  as  the  Mons  placita  of  the 
manor,  by  others  a  sepulchral  barrow,  or,  from  its  situation  upon  a  Roman 
road,  an  arx  speculatoria  of  the  Romans.  No  other  vestige  of  that  people 
appears  in  this  neighbourhood  except  a  stone ^  noticed  in  Gough’s  Camden, 
said  to  be  about  1  m.  from  Crickhowel.  It  is  now  prostrate ;  its  dimen^ 
sions  are  9  f*  lougj  by  Iff.  broad,  and  6  in.  thick.  It  lies  near  the  hedge- 
side,  on  part  of  a  farm  called  Ty~yn-y~wldd  (the  house  in  the  country)  ;  the 
field  is  in  the  parishes  of  Crickhowel,  Llampeter,  and  Llangeney,  and  is 
called  Cae  Cynta  geffil,  or  the  First  Horses’  Field.”  A  writer  in  the  Gentle¬ 
man’s  Mag.  for  July,  I768,  reports  the  inscription  to  be-— 

TVRPILIVS  lACET 
VERI  TR  FILIVS  DVNOCATI. 

Mr.  Theoph.  Jones  says,  The  first  word  is  certainly  Turpilii,  and  not 
Turpiliani,  as  asserted  by  Gough  ;  the  rest  may  be  any  thing  that  the  reader 
pleases,  — 

“As  the  bell  clinketh 
So  the  fool  thinketh.  ” 

On  entering  Crickhowel,  the  Old  Gateway,  upon  the  r.,  generally  attracts 
attention.  It  was  the  castellated  mansion  of  the  first  Herberts,  and  is  now 
called  Cwrt  Garw. 

In  moving  towards  Merthyr  Tydvil,  Cantref,  which  lies  about  2  m.  s. 
of  Brecon,  is  a  parish  which  contains  several  objects  of  interest.  The 
church  is  romantically  situated  upon  an  eminence  near  the  river  Cynrig. 
containing  nothing  remarkable.  One  m.  to  the  s.  e.  lies  Llanfrynach. 
The  neighbourhood  of  the  church  and  village  is  antiquarian  ground.  Tre- 
gaer  and  Caerau  are  names  which  distinguish  two  tenements,  one  of  which 
was  probably  the  summer  residence  of  a  Roman  general.  A  Roman  bath 
was  discovered  in  the  year  1775>  in  a  field  near  the  village  called  Carncm 
hach,  but  soon  after  destroyed.  Mr.  Hay,  of  Brecon,  however,  fortunately 
took  a  drawing  of  it,  a  copy  of  which  is  given  in  Mr.  Jones’s  Flistory  of 
Breconshire.  Several  Roman  coins  have  also  been  found  here ;  a  plate 
containing  I6  of  them  is  given  in  the  same  work.  They  were  inthe  possession 
of  Mr.  Jeffreys  Wilkins,  of  the  priory  of  Brecon.  In  the  beginning  of  the 
year  1808,  in  a  field  called  Cae-gwin,  part  of  a  farm  named  Ty-y-llwyn 
was  discovered  under  an  immense  earn,  a  Cistvaen,  formed  of  four  stones, 
set  edgewise,  with  a  fifth  upon  the  top,  without  any  inscription  ;  human 
bones  were  in  the  enclosure,  and  upon  the  lid.  The  stones  were  cleared. 


BRECKNOCK. 


109 

by  order  of  the  proprietor^  Mr.  J.  Powell^  of  Brecon^  attorney^  for  agri¬ 
cultural  purposes.  This  was  probably  the  place  of  interment  for  one  or 
more  British  chieftains  ;  for  the  Cistvaen^  or  coffin,  succeeded  the  Cromlech 
or  sepulchral  monument. 

“  Perhaps  in  this  neglected  spot  was  laid 
A  heart  that  glow’d  with  patriotic  fire  ; 

Hands  that  the  rod  of  Cambria  once  had  sway’d, 

Or  wak’d  to  ecstacy  the  living  lyre  ; 

Some  rival  Craddock,  who  with  dauntless  power 
From  base  usurpers  did  his  country  save. 

Yet  felt,  like  all,  th’  inevitable  hour 

When  paths  of  glory  lead  but  to  the  grave.” 

The  tombs  in  this  church  evince  that  some  of  the  descendants  of  Sir 
David  Gam  settled  in  this  neighbourhood.  The  soil  of  this  parish  is  alluvial_, 
mixed  with  loam  in  the  Low  Lands,  chiefly  used  in  raising  corn ;  and 
moist  and  boggy  at  the  feet  of  the  mountains.  The  rivers  Mehascin  on  the 
s.  E.,  and  the  Cynrig  on  the  w.,  bound  this  parish,  both  of  which  fall  into 
the  Usk. 

Previous  to  a  descent  into  Cwmdu,  the  lofty  summits  of  the  Brecon 
Beacons,  attract  our  notice.  The  southernmost  is  the  least ;  the  other  two 
are  loftier,  and  sometimes  called  Cadair  Arthur,  or  Arthur  s  Chair.  Pro¬ 
bably  the  demigod  Arthur,  and  the  warrior  of  the  same  name  were  very 
different  personages.  (See  Owens  Cam.  Biog.^  The  mythological  Arthur, 
is  portrayed  as  a  tremendous  figure.  His  head  soars  above  the  clouds, 
and  is  encircled  by  the  rainbow  ;  he  breathes  in  the  zephyrs  of  spring,  and 
in  the  summer  breeze,  and  roars  in  the  tempests  of  winter.  The  back  of 
his  chair  is  a  semicircular  sweep  of  two  or  three  miles.  His  quoits  (the 
covering  stones  of  our  cromlechau)  are  dispersed  over  the  face  of  the  prin¬ 
cipality.  His  seat  is  upon  the  site  of  Llyn-cwm-llwch  ;  there  his  seven- 
league  boots  are  deposited,  which  time  has,  in  an  envious  mood,  concealed. 
Leland  tells  us,  that  Arture’s  hill  is  hi  good  Welsh  miles  (almost  5 
English),  s.  w.  from  Brecknock.  This  hille  of  some  is  counted  of  the 
highest  hille  in  Wales,  and  in  a  veri  cleere  day  a  mane  may  see  from  hit 
a  part  of  Malvern  hilles,  and  Gloucestre,  and  Bristow,  and  part  of  Devon¬ 
shire  and  Cornwall.  Ther  be  divers  other  hilles  by  Arture’s  hill,  the  wich 
with  it  be  commonly  called  Banne  Brekeniauc.”  Holinshed  does  not  men¬ 
tion  the  well,  but  he  gives  us  a  wonderous  marvel  instead.  One  moun¬ 
tain  in  the  s.,  and  3  m.  from  Brecknock,  is  of  such  height  and  operation 
as  is  incredible  ;  and  were  it  not  that  I  have  witnesses  to  affirme  what  I 
shall  speak,  I  should  blush  to  let  the  report  thereof  passe  from  my  pen. 
From  the  top  of  that  hill  called  Monuch  Denny,  or  Cadier  Arthur,  they 
had  often  times  cast  from  them  and  doune  the  north  east  rocks  their  cloakes, 
hats,  and  staves,  which,  notwithstanding,  would  never  fall,  but  were  by  the 
air  and  winde  still  returned  backe,  and  blown  up ;  neither,  said  they,  will 
any  thing  descend  from  that  cliff,  being  so  e.,  unless  it  be  stone,  or  some 
metalline  substance,  affirming  the  cause  to  be  the  clouds  which  are  seen  to 
racke  much  lower  than  the  top  of  that  hille  !  !  ”  The  most  southern  bea¬ 
cons  appear  perfect  cones  at  a  very  short  distance,  and  in  reality  do  not 
contain  upon  their  summits  above  20  or  SO  yards  of  flat  surface.  1  he 
centre  beacon  contains  a  deposit  of  rain  water  which  is  sometimes  perfectly 
dry.  Its  point  is  850  yards  above  the  bed  of  the  Usk,  at  Brecon,  and 
*  987  yards  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  n.  e.  is  a  terrific  precipice  of  at 
least  200  nearly  perpendicular  yards  from  the  top  to  where  the  descent 
begins  to  be  more  gradual.  From  the  centre  beacon  we  command  a  view 


110 


BRECKNOCK. 


of  the  Bristol  channel  from  the  Mumble-head  to  King-road,  with  parts  of 
thirteen  or  fourteen  counties ;  the  Malvern  hills  are  objects  in  this  prospect, 
but  Bristol  cannot  be  seen.  Upon  the  s.  w.  side  the  ascent  is  more  gradual. 
From  the  summit  of  this  peak,  the  line  takes  a  concave  sweep  to  the  w., 
till  it  rises  again  with  boldness  and  majesty  to  the  third  peak.  In  this 
descent,  and  a  few  yards  lower  towards  the  s.,  is  the  source  of  the  lesser 
Taf.  The  w.  beacon  shows  a  more  flattened  summit;  the  sides,  like  those 
of  its  concomitants,  shelve  from  the  top  to  the  s.  w.,  and  break  almost  pre¬ 
cipitously  on  the  N.  E.,  producing  that  appearance  which  Giraldus  calls 
instar  Cathedrcs.  At  their  feet  is  the  circular  pool  called  Llyn~cwm-llwch, 
about  1  m.  in  circumference.  The  Lacerta  aquatica,  or  common  water 
newt,  called,  in  Welsh,  Pwdrwhilen,  is  found  in  great  abundance  in  this 
pool.  There  are  no  fish  except  eels,  to  which  our  little  harmless  wizard, 
the  terror  of  both  little  and  great  children,  becomes  a  prey.  It  has  not  been 
ascertained  whether  this  pool  is  a  crater  or  an  inverted  cone.  Awful  con¬ 
vulsions  have  produced  the  astonishing  rents  and  disruptions  presented  in 
these  mountains.  From  these  the  experienced  geologist  may  expect  much, 
as  displaying  the  internal  composition  of  the  earth  to  a  considerable  depth 
below  the  surface.  In  proceeding  on  the  road  to  Merthyr  Tydvil,  leave  the 
beacons  on  the  1.,  and  cross  the  infant  Taf-fawr  river  at  Pont-ar-taf,  8  m. 
from  Brecon,  which  continues  on  the  r.  all  the  way  ;  cross  the  tributary 
stream  called  Crw,  2  m.,  cross  Nant-ddu-brook,  l-l-  m. ;  \  m.  further, 
Capel  Nant-ddu,  situated  close  upon  the  e.  bank  of  the  Taf-fawr  or  greater 
Taf.  The  living  is  a  chapel  of  ease  to  Cantreff,  the  original  endowment 
was  only  40^.  per  annum,  to  the  minister  of  Cantreff,  for  his  tedious  ride. 
It  has,  however,  been  augmented  four  times  by  Queen  Anne’s  bounty. 
One  m.  further,  cross  the  Llyserog  river.  Another  mile  cross  at  Aher- 
carr ;  Garawen,  1  m.  Cefn  coed-y-Cymmer,  2  m.  Merthyr  Tyd¬ 
vil,  2.  m. 

To  Neath,  cross  the  Usk  into  the  parish  of  St.  David’s,  next  pass  the 
Tarell  river,  and  pursue  the  Merthyr  Tydvil  road  for  4  m.,  w'hen  take  the 
r.  for  2  m.  more  (on  the  w.  of  Y-fan-frenacIi)  to  Senny,  2  m.  On  the 
same  side  is  Capel  Illtyd.  Towards  the  farm  house  of  Mannelt,  the  ground 
rises,  and,  about  i  m.  w.,  becomes  a  considerable  hill :  at  the  summit  of 
this  eminence  is  the  hermitage  of  Illtyd.  Within  a  few  yards  is  a  heap  of 
stones,  and  the  appearance  of  an  entrenchment.  Mr.  Theo.  Jones  thinks 
this  may  have  been  an  arx  speculatoria,  especially  as  the  Roman  road  ran 
only  a  few  yards  below  ;  such  a  watch-tower,  or  station,  of  Roman  sentinels, 
may  have  been  converted  into  the  hermitage  of  the  holy  Illtyd.  At  present, 
a  yew-tree  grows  on  the  spot ;  hence  it  may  have  since  been  a  Christian 
oratory.  Five  m.  further,  on  the  Neath  road,  occurs  on  the  r.  a  large 
stone,  called  Maen-llia,  near  the  foot  of  a  mountain  called  Bryn-melyn.  It 
stands  upon  the  summit  of  Blansenni.  This  stone  is  evidently  not  Druidic  ; 
it  is  a  rude  rhomb,  with  the  angles  truncated,  about  11-^  ft.  high,  and  p.j  ft* 
broad,  composed  of  granite ;  hence  the  Sarn  Helen  proceeded  in  a  line  as 
straight  as  it  can  be  drawn.  About  1  m.  from  the  village  of  Dringarth,  a 
little  above  the  Aber,  is  a  mound  or  barrow  of  nearly  the  circumference  of 
that  of  Crickhowel.  Cross  the  Llia  river,  2  m.,  to  Ystradfellte,  2  m. 
The  church  at  this  place  is  a  chapel  of  ease  to  Defynock.  The  Via 
Helina,  after  passing  the  great  stone  upon  the  mountain,  near  the  summit 
of  the  vale  of  Senny,  in  Defynock,  enters  Ystradfellte  upon  the  e.  confine, 
when,  after  accompanying  the  turnpike-road  from  Brecon  to  Neath  for  a 
m.  or  two,  it  takes  its  direction  w.w.  by  n.,  into  the  little  valley  of  Nedd, 
and  skirting  the  n.  boundary  of  Ystradfellte,  crosses  Ystradgynlais,  a  little 


BRECKNOCK. 


Ill 


way  below  Blaen-nedd-uchaf.  Near  this  road^  after  it  has  departed  from 
the  Brecknock  track_,  and  upon  the  hil]_,  before  the  traveller  reaches  Glyn- 
y-rJiyd,  is  a  stone,  now  thrown  down,  called  Maen  Madog,  a  print  of  which 
is  given  in  Gough’s  Camden.  At  a  little  distance  is  another  stone,  having 
a  sympuvium  upon  it.  Upon  the  hill,  n.  of  the  village,  are  kilns,  the  lime 
from  which  is  conveyed  chiefly  on  horseback.  The  vale  preserves  strong 
traces  of  the  ravages  of  some  violent  concussion  which  has  at  some  time 
affected  this  country  :  its  effects  are  observable  in  the  Rhaiadyr  Mellte,  now 
several  yards  below  its  former  channel.  In  the  summer  season,  this 
stream  runs  in  a  confined  rocky  channel,  till  it  flows  opposite  the  village  of 
Ystrad-fellte,  when  it  steals  into  a  small  whirlpool  on  the  s.  bank,  where  it 
is  lost ;  the  channel,  however,  which  it  pursues,  in  the  time  of  floods,  is 
seen  covered  with  stones  for  about -t-  m.,  till  we  come  to  Porth-yr-ogof  (the 
mouth  of  the  cave).  Here  the  banks  on  both  sides  are  nearly  precipitous. 
This  portal  resembles  the  long  and  heavy  stone  mantelpieces  over  the  fire¬ 
places  of  our  ancient  halls.  On  entering  this  cavern,  the  rocks  are  of  un¬ 
equal  height ;  at  one  step  low  enough  to  permit  a  tall  man  to  advance 
without  stooping,  and  at  the  next,  a  child  of  10  years  old  must  creep  upon 
all  fours.  On  the  1.  a  nearly  perfect  dome  is  discovered,  from  the  roof  of 
which  are  suspended  stalactites  and  other  calcareous  concretions,  in  great 
abundance,  which  make  a  brilliant  appearance  when  lights  are  introduced. 
On  the  same  side  of  the  river,  a  little  lower  and  further  in  the  cave,  the 
river  Mellte  is  heard  rippling  among  the  stones,  and  soon  after,  it  falls 
into  a  tremendous  deep  black  pool,  in  the  centre  of  the  cavern.  The  whole 
of  the  scene  is  horridly  grand.  At  the  lower  end  of  this  acherontic  gulf, 
in  a  black  rock,  is  a  vein  of  calcareous  spar,  supposed  to  resemble  a  naked 
child  standing  upon  a  pedestal,  whence  it  is  called  Llynn-y-baban.  Here 
the  river  is  again  lost  for  about  120  yards,  after  which,  in  floods,  it  boils 
out  below,  with  great  fury.  On  the  r.  is  another  branch  of  the  cavern, 
supposed  to  extend  many  miles  in  length,  where  persons  are  said  to  have 
lost  their  way.  Emerging  into  light,  the  traveller  may  observe  that  the 
stones  on  which  he  treads,  as  well  as  the  lower  strata  of  the  natural  bridge, 
are  of  firmer  texture,  and  more  ponderous,  than  the  superincumbent  rock, 
and  if  he  ascends  to  the  top  of  the  bridge,  he  will  see  evident  marks  of  its 
having  been  formerly  overflowed  with  water.  The  rage  of  this  mountain- 
torrent,  after  its  ebullition  from  the  rock,  is  such,  during  a  flood,  as  com¬ 
pletely  to  divest  it,  during  its  descent,  of  the  appearance  of  water  ;  all  is 
vapour,  foam,  and  wild  confusion  !  At  one  time  it  falls  in  an  unbroken 
cascade,  and  produces  a  misty  cloud  several  yards  around ;  it  then  rolls 
and  tumbles  in  fantastic  directions,  buffeted  from  side  to  side,  by  irregular 
obstructions  of  projecting  rocks,  upwards  of  3  m.,  till  it  loses  itself  and 
its  fury  in  the  Neath.  Pont  Neath  Vaughan  3  m.,  interesting.  This 
village  stands  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  on  the  confines  of  the  two  counties 
of  Glamorgan  and  Brecknock,  and  at  the  confluence  of  five  rivers  ;  each  of 
them  contributing  its  rocks,  woods,  and  waterfalls,  to  that  general  gran¬ 
deur  and  magnificence,  which  here  seems  to  be  brought  together  as  in  a 
focus.  The  Neath,  on  which  the  village  stands,  is  the  principal ;  its 
double  head  is  mentioned  by  Drayton. 

The  source  of  that  branch  which  fertilises  the  spot  in  question  is  at  the 
distance  of  some  miles,  due  north  ;  but  the  Neath  Vaughan  division  rises 
far  to  the  north-east  on  Monuchdenny  mountain ;  and,  after  dividing  the 
counties  of  Brecknock  and  Glamorganshire,  in  a  wide  and  circuitous  sweep, 
joins  its  sister  stream  just  at  Pont  Neath  Vaughan. 

The  other  tributary  rivers  are  the  Mellte  and  the  Plepste,  rising  from 


112 


BRECKNOCK. 


different,  but  not  far  distant,  sources,  and,  after  their  union,  pouring  them¬ 
selves  into  Purthin  river,  which  likewise  receives  Tragath,  and  conveys  its 
collected  waters  into  the  Neath.  Augmented  by  such  copious  contributions, 
the  Neath  river  rolls  through  its  vale  in  a  body,  and  with  a  force  that  is 
truly  majestic.  The  number  of  cascades  in  every  direction,  within  3  or 
4  miles  of  this  place,  is  so  great,  that  it  is  difficult,  and,  perhaps,  unneces¬ 
sary,  to  visit  them  all.  Neath,  Mellte,  Tragath,  and  Purthin,  have  each  of 
them  one,  besides  the  remarkable  cavern  through  which  the  Mellte  runs ; 
and  Hepste  has  five,  not  to  mention  the  three  on  the  Glamorganshire  rivers 
that  join  the  Neath  between  Pont  Neath  Vaughan,  and  the  sea.  Those  on 
the  Tragath,  Hepste,  and  Mellte,  comprise  the  boldest  and  most  characteristic 
features ;  forming  a  portion  of  as  sublime  and  romantic  a  scene,  as  can  well 
be  conceived  in  this  or  any  other  country  :  indeed,  this  vale,  extending  from 
the  town  of  Neath  to  beyond  Pont  Neath  Vaughan,  comprises  one  of 
the  finest  scenes  in  South  Wales.  Notwithstanding  that  it  is  thus,  as  it 
were,  environed  by  the  finest  and  most  productive  rivers,  and  situated 
among  scenes  of  such  unrivalled  beauty,  this  calm,  placid  retreat,  is  almost 
unknown  to  anglers.  In  our  frequent  visits,  we  never  saw  or  heard  of  any 
one  engaged  in  pursuits  similar  to  our  own.  About  ten  years  ago,  how¬ 
ever,  a  very  worthy  brother  of  the  angle  ”  (no  fly  fisher,  by  the  by), 
stumbled  upon  this  oasis  in  the  desert,  and  found  ample  employment  for 
about  five  weeks,  in  attending  to  his  four  rods,  laid  down  together ;  the  fish 
(trout  and  sewin)  taking  as  fast  as  he  could  re-bait  the  hooks.  He  used 
brandlings,  caddis,  and  gentils.  It  was  in  the  month  of  July,  and  there 
had  been  much  previous  rain.  The  greatest  weight  of  fish  taken  in  any 
one  day  was  35  pounds.”  (^Hansard.^  Neath  12  m. 

On  the  road  to  Llandovery,  to  the  1.  is  Llanfaes,  a  parish  forming  the 
suburbs  of  the  town  of  Brecon,  though  formerly  it  was  detached,  and 
called  Llanddewi-yn-y-maes  (St.  David’s  in  the  field).  The  church  con¬ 
tains  nothing  attractive  in  its  exterior,  yet  the  building  is  light  and  neat ; 
consisting  of  a  chancel,  nave,  and  tower,  at  the  w.  end,  in  which  are  four 
bells.  Its  interior  is  ceiled  and  flagged,  the  seats  painted  and  numbered  ; 
over  the  entrance  into  the  steeple,  is  a  gallery.  The  inscription  mentioned 
in  a  MS.,  in  the  Harleian  collection,  is  nearly  effaced,  and  the  stone  broken, 
so  that  only  the  two  first  and  part  of  the  third  and  last  words  can  be  read. 
The  inscription  was  hic  jacet  ievan  vab  iohan  vaeson  cujus  anim^ 
pROPiciETUB  DEus  I  AMEN.”  There  are  alms-houses  here,  with  a  portion 
of  garden  ground  attached  to  each,  about  100  yards  nearer  to  the  town 
than  the  church,  given  by  one  of  the  family  of  Games,  of  Newton,  for 
twelve  female  decayed  housekeepers  of  the  town  of  Brecon.  Another  re¬ 
ceptacle  for  the  unfortunate  is  situated  upon  the  banks  of  the  Tarell,  in  this 
parish,  i.  e.,  the  county  gaol,  secured  by  a  strong  outward  wall.  To  Llan. 
spyddyd,  1|  m.,  formerly  written  Llanspytty,  a  house  of  entertainment  for 
guests,  an  hospitium  much  different  from  our  inns  in  modern  times,  where 
good  refreshment  for  man  and  horse  was  to  be  had  without  expense.  The 
church  is  close  to  the  turnpike-road,  surrounded  by  venerable  yews,  and 
though  not  ceiled,  it  is  well  flagged,  and  the  seats  in  good  repair  ;  it  consists 
of  a  nave  only,  and  on  the  outside  is  a  small  shed,  containing  a  bell.  The 
gravestones  in  the  church  are  numerous,  and  a  headstone  in  the  church¬ 
yard  bears  the  name  Gustavus  Adolphus  John,  of  Llanllwny,  Carmarthen¬ 
shire,  who  died  1765,  aged  40.  There  is  a  stone  in  the  churchyard, 
under  which  the  tradition  of  the  country  informs  us  Bryclian  Brecheiniog 
was  buried.  It  is  on  the  s.  side  of  the  church,  measuring  3  ft.  high ;  near 
the  top  is  a  cross  within  a  circle.  Aherhran-fawr ,  2  m.  a  seat  of  the 


BRECKNOCK. 


113 


junior  branches  of  the  house  of  Abercamlais^  was  raised  many  centuries 
prior  to  that  mansion.  Upon  a  hill  above  Aberbran^  called  Twyn-y-Gaer, 
are  the  vestiges  of  a  small  British  camp^  and  in  the  vale  below,  at  the  fall 
of  a  small  brook  running  by  Capel  Bettws  into  the  Usk,  was  Einon  Sais’s 
castle,  of  which  not  a  stone  remains.  In  1738  Bettws  Chapel  became 
ruinous  and  was  repaired,  after  a  lawsuit,  by  the  parishioners.  About 
1789  it  had  become  dilapidated  again,  when  the  late  Mr.  Philip  Williams 
of  Penpont,  rebuilt  it  nearly  at  his  own  expense,  erected  a  wall  round  the 
chapel  yard,  and  planted  evergreens  with  flowering  shrubs.  It  wants  only 
an  elegant  spire  to  make  it  a  perfect  subject  for  the  pencil.  On  the  w. 
side  is  a  vault  belonging  to  the  Penpont  family,  Penpont  and  Ahercam- 
lais,  the  former  is  the  residence  of  Penry  Williams,  Esq.,  lord-lieut.  of 
the  county.  3  m.  beyond  Aherhrdn,  1  m.  to  the  1.,  is  Devyrnck,  or  Dyfy- 
nog,  from  Cynog,  the  first  founder,  and  son  of  Medrod  ab  Cawdraf  ab 
Caradog  :  probably  the  latter  was  the  second  saint  to  which  this  church 
was  dedicated.  It  consists  of  2  aisles  ;  a  strong  well-built  tower  con¬ 
tains  2  bells.  The  monuments  and  inscriptions  are  few.  The  church¬ 
yard  is  next  to  Llanfrynach  in  extent,  and  the  tombs  and  gravestones 
numerous.  The  pernicious  custom  of  burying  within  the  walls  was 
very  properly  discontinued  about  the  year  1786’.  Besides  Sir  John 
Davy\  benefaction  for  the  erection  of  houses  for  5  poor  people,  a 
house  for  a  schoolmaster,  and  a  school-room,  there  are  several  others 
recorded  upon  a  table  placed  in  the  dilapidated  entrance  into  the  church. 
It  was  to  protect  travellers  and  the  conquerors  of  Brecknockshire  against 
the  incursions^of  the  barbarians  of  the  forest  that  Bhyd-y-hrew  Castle  was 
erected  during  the  reign  of  Edward  III.  It  is  situated  upon  a  small  knoll, 
upon  the  w.  side  of  the  Cilieni,  near  its  fall  into  the  Usk.  It  seems  to 
have  consisted  of  a  tower  only  surrounded  with  a  walled  court.  The  name 
of  the  farm  on  which  it  stands  is  Castel-du,  the  Black  Castle  ;  or  the  dark 
hole  or  dungeon  where  the  robbers  from  the  mountains  were  confined  and 
frequently  executed  without  trial.  Having  crossed  the  Usk,  Llwyncynte- 
fin  lies  on  the  r.  3^  m.  near  which  is  Capel  Rhyd-y-hrew,  originally  built 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  family  of  Llwyncyntefin;  it  is  now  more  valuable 
than  the  living  from  the  products  of  a  coal  mine.  Cross  the  Clydach  river,  1^ 
m.  ;  to  Trecastle,  m.  This  place  is  considered  as  a  ward  of  the  borough  of 
Brecon,  and  as  forming  part  of  the  town  of  Llywel,  though  it  is  distant 
from  that  church  and  village  about  1  m. ;  it  consists  of  one  straggling  street 
formed  of  thirty  or  forty  houses,  remarkable  for  nothing  but  a  good  inn. 
It  is  divided  by  a  brook  called  Llogyn  or  Halogyn.  On  the  other  side  of 
this  rivulet  are  some  cottages  and  land,  called  Tre’r  Escoh,  or  Bishopstone. 
Though  not  a  market  town,  Trecastle  has  fairs  on  Jan.  17,  April  5,  May 
21,  July  2,  Aug.  14,  Oct.  14,  Nov.  13,  Dec.  14.  The  Black  Mountain, 
or  Mynydd  bwlch  y  groes,  towering  above  the  village,  n.,  is  a  leading  ob¬ 
ject  in  the  scenery.  It  is  forked  like  Mount-denny,  from  which  flow 
numberless  rivulets,  which  fall  into  the  river  Gwydderig  in  its  way  to 
the  Tawe,  as  the  latter  winds  upon  the  n.  side  of  the  mountains ;  while 
the  Usk  along  the  s.  receives  all  the  streams  that  fall  upon  that  side.  In 
front  of  the  inn,  the  site  of  the  castle  may  be  distinguished.  The  vale  of 
the  Tawe  might  be  conveniently  visited  from  this  place.  This  stream  rises 
in  Llyn-y -Van  hetwem  the  two  lofty  summits  of  Ban  Brecheiniog  and  the 
Ban  Sir  Gaen,  This  is  a  fine  lake  of  beautifully  transparent  water,  in 
the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  about  ninety-six 
feet  in  depth.  The  sombre  aspect  of  the  dark  red  precipitous  rocks  that 
form  the  eastern  boundary  of  this  extensive  sheet  of  water,  and  the  general 

I 


114 


BRECKNOCK. 


air  of  sterility  whicli  characterises  all  the  surrounding  objects^  are  finely 
contrasted  with  the  high  state  of  cultivation  which  embelhshes  the  lower 
grounds  of  its  vicinity.  Though  the  situation  is  so  elevated  that  the  snow 
remains  unmelted  upon  the  shore  for  the  greater  portion  of  the  year^  this 
lake  abounds  with  trout  and  eels  of  superior  quality.  When  a  strong 
breeze  ruffles  the  surface  of  Llyn-y-Van^  the  rise  of  the  fish  is  almost  in¬ 
credible,  and  can  be  compared  only  to  violent  rain^  or  the  effect  that  would 
be  produced  by  casting  handfuls  of  gravel  upon  its  surface.  We  once 
spent  an  entire  day  on  its  wild,  rocky  shores,  and  were,  for  that  period  at 
least,  perfectly  satiated  with  sport.  The  trout  threw  themselves  out  of  the 
water  in  summersets,  by  hundreds  at  once  ;  and  the  effect  was  most  sin¬ 
gular,  as  their  golden  spotted  sides  flashed  and  glittered  in  the  sunbeams 
that  occasionally  broke  through  the  gloom  which  overspread  the  atmosphere. 
Fortunately  for  the  lover  of  angling,  from  the  shallow  rocky  bottom  of  this 
lake  near  the  shore,  it  is  useless  to  attempt  dragging  with  a  net,  while  its 
great  depth  towards  the  centre,  would  render  any  similar  method  of  fishing 
equally  unprofitable,  even  could  a  boat  be  conveyed  to  the  lofty  rugged 
mountain  hollow  in  which  it  is  situated.  The  trout  are  therefore  propa¬ 
gated  in  immense  numbers,  undiminished  by  the  successful  devices  adopted 
f^or  their  destruction  in  waters  less  difficult  of  approach,  and  they  conse¬ 
quently,  for  the  most  part,  die  of  old  age ;  very  few  persons  being  willing 
to  encounter  the  toil  and  fatigue  of  the  ascent.  In  the  grousing  season,  a 
tent  is  generally  erected  on  the  shores  of  Llyn  Van,  and  the  sportsmen 
occasionally  vary  their  pursuits,  by  angling  when  the  breeze  is  sufficiently 
strong  for  the  purpose.  In  stormy  weather  its  surface  is  greatly  agitated, 
and  the  fish  are  then  often  thrown  ashore  in  considerable  numbers.  The 
best  road  to  ascend  the  Van  mountain^  is  either  from  Llandovery  in  Car¬ 
marthenshire  ;  or  from  Devynock,  near  Brecon."  — Hansard. 

N.  from  Trecastle,  a  range  of  hills  occurs,  connected  with  those  of 
Epynt,  intersected  by  two  valleys  from  n.  to  e.  Mr.  Theoph.  Jones  says 
that,  The  Via  Julia,  from  Caerleon  to  Carmarthen  unquestionably  inter¬ 
sected  the  parish  of  Llywel,  from  e.  to  w.”  He  thinks  it  advanced  on  the 
s.  side  of  the  Usk  from  Aberbran,  and  of  Towy  till  it  reached  Car¬ 
marthen.  In  Llywel  I  think  it  proceeded  nearly  along  the  turnpike- 
road  called  the  admirals,  from  its  having  been  suggested  and  planned  by 
the  late  admiral  Lloyd  of  Dan  yr  allt,  and  there  appears  to  me  to  be  clear 
vestiges  of  it  upon  several  parts  of  the  mountain,  and  particularly  at  Tal-y- 
sarn,  and  so  on  to  Llys  Brychan  in  the  parish  of  Llangattoc,  in  Car¬ 
marthenshire."  Others  say  this  road  passes  Rhyd-y-brew,  and  Trecastle, 
across  the  mountain,  by  the  Black  Cock"  public-house,  to  Llandovery,  but 
I  never  could  discover  the  least  trace  of  a  causeway  upon  this  line.  Anti¬ 
quaries  have  adopted  the  latter  opinion  from  a  supposed  miliary  upon  the 
mountain  and  the  camp  at  Llanfah^-y-bryn,  near  Llandovery.  The  stone 
referred  to  by  Strange  and  engraved  in  the  Archaeologia,  vol.  iv.,  is  said  to 
have  been  dug  up  from  the  top  of  Mynydd  Trecastell,  Trecastle  mountain, 
near  the  Heath  Cock"  public-house.  Gough  gives  the  inscription  thus  :  — 

Imperatori  nostro  Marco  Cassiano  Latino  Postumo  Pio  Felici  Aug.," 
which  may  mean  anything  the  reader  pleases.  It  was  removed  in  I767 
at  the  expense  of  a  Mr.  Latham,  supervisor  of  excise,  to  Llandeilo  fawr, 
but  the  words  Imp  and  Cassiano  are  now  only  legible.  On  quitting  Tre¬ 
castle  for  Llandovery,  the  vale  of  the  Usk  is  deserted.  Pass  the  village  of 
Llywel,  Im.  If.  The  church,  according  to  Giraldus  Cambriensis,  was 
burnt  about  the  latter  end  of  the  eleventh  century,  by  a  contending  enemy. 
The  present  fabric  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel  only,  with  a  strong 
ower  at  the  w.  end,  containing  four  bells.  The  rood  loft  remains. 


BRIDGEND. 


115 


On  this  road^  a  charmingly  wooded  dingle  is  entered^  with  the  brawling 
stream  on  the  1.  working  its  way  over  a  rugged  bed  of  rocks.  Cross  the 
Nant  y  Meirch  Brook^  to  the  Heath  Cock’'  public-house^  S  m.  The 
Gwdderig,  devolving  from  the  hills,  works  its  noisy  way  by  the  side  of  the 
road,  till  it  falls  into  the  Bran,  1^  m.  before  its  confluence  with  the  Tawe, 
below  Llandovery.  At  the  distance  of  1  m.  a  fine  plain  is  disclosed  stretching 
both  to  the  r.  and  1.  to  a  great  extent ;  through  this  winds  the  pastoral 
Towy,  which  gives  the  name  of  the  vale.  Lime,  in  this  district,  is  the 
commonest  manure.  The  houses  are  whitewashed.  Y  Felindre  4  m.  3  f. 
Llandovery,  -f-  m. 

The  vale  of  the  Towy  is  singularly  beautiful.  It  displays  scattered 
white  cottages,  depositories  of  lime,  and  the  villages  Capel  Collwyn  and 
Tywyn.  The  greatest  curiosity  of  this  extraordinary  neighbourhood  is  the 
Criharth  lime-rock,  which  is  elevated  to  an  immense  height.  On  reaching 
the  level  of  the  vale,  the  sinuous  river  assumes  very  charming  features. 
The  confined  descent  to  Henneuadd  by  the  tramroad,  is  romantically  over¬ 
hung  ;  where  a  view  from  the  wooden  bridge  is  uncommonly  beautiful, 
particularly  by  moonlight.  There  is  an  incommodious  public-house  just 
by.  The  present  head  of  the  Swansea  canal  is  at  this  place.  At  Capel 
Coelbren,  between  Henneuadd  and  Ystradfellte  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman 
road.”  —  Malkin. 

Angling  Stations  in  the  vicinity  of  Brecon  :  —  Cray,  9^  m.  at  its 
junction  with  the  Usk ;  Crickhowel,  13  m.  on  the  Usk,  celebrated  for 
trout  and  salmon;  Battle,  m.  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ysew  and  Usk ; 
Dyffryn  Honddu,  7  m. ;  Devynock,  9  m.  at  the  confluence  of  Lewin  and 
Usk;  Llandyfaelog-Vach,  2^  m. ;  Llandeilo-r-Van,19.m.,  three  brooks 
here  ;  Maescar,  7  m.  on  the  Usk  ;  Pont-JSfeath-  Vaughan  ;  Merthyr  Cynog, 
8m.  between  the  Yscir  and  Honddu;  Penpont,  5m.;  Pont- Van,  2  m. 
Talgarth,  5j  m. ;  Trallong,  5i  m. ;  Ystradfellte,  15  m.  Fish  directly  under 
the  waterfalls. 


To  Builth,  15  miles.  Barber  ;  Skrine  ;  Warner. 
Crickhowel,  13^  miles.  Malkin  ;  Wyndham  ; 
Manby. 

Abergavenny,  19^  miles.  J.  Evans. 
Ystradfelltd,  \5  miles. 

Llanfihangel  fechan,  4|  miles. 

Merthyr  Tydvil,  18  miles.  Skrine. 

Hay,  15  miles.  Lipscomb. 


Herwain,  18  miles. 

Llangattoc,  25  miles. 

Llandovery,  20  miles. 

Llandeilo  Fawr,  32  miles. 

Pont  Neath  Vaughan,  17  miles. 

Lamb  and  Flag,  or  Glyn  Neath,  25  miles. 
Gldsbury,  12  miles. 


BRIDGEND. 

From  Cowbridge,  6|  miles.  Barber.  I  Ewenny  Abbey,  If  mile.  Evans. 

Pyle  Inn,  Smiles.  Malkin.  1 

BRIDGEND,  or  Penybont-ar-Ogwr,  is  an  irregular  little  town  in 
Glamorganshire,  situated  in  a  beautiful  and  fertile  district  upon  the  opposing 
banks  of  the  river  Ogmore,  the  hamlet  of  Oldcastle  occupying  the  e.,  and 
that  of  Newcastle  the  w.  bank  of  that  river,  over  which  there  are  two  bridges ; 
one  is  an  elegant  structure.  Bridgend  contains  some  excellent  shops.  New 
houses  have  been  erected,  and  the  old  ones  modernised.  In  the  vicinity  are 
several  villas.  The  situation  of  Newcastle,  which  forms  a  part  of  Bridgend, 
is  prominent.  The  churchyard  commands  a  fine  prospect  of  the  surround¬ 
ing  country. 

The  ride  to  Llantrissant,  through  Coity,  remarkable  only  for  a  dis¬ 
mantled  castle,  is  pleasingly  interspersed  with  trees  and  underwood.  Its 
foundation  is  generally  attributed  to  Peganus  de  Turbervile,  one  of  Fitz- 
hammon’s  knights. 

I  2 


116 


BRIDGEND. 


Near  the  sixth  mile-stone^  at  a  curve  in  the  road_,  the  wide  undulating 
vale  of  Cowbridge  exhibits  an  extensive  tract  of  beautiful  fertility.'  On  one 
of  the  high  hills  circumscribing  the  vale^  that  which  sustains  Penlline  Castle 
appears  pre-eminent.  Rich  pastures  and  meadows,  intersected  by  tufted  in- 
closures,  embowered  hamlets,  and  detached  specks  of  whitened  buildings, 
form  a  glance  of  considerable  interest.  Near  Lantrissant  is  a  well,  containing 
water  of  a  strongly  repellant  quality.  Coychurch  and  Llanharan  are  rural 
and  pleasing.  In  the  parish  of  the  former,  or  Eglwys  LlangraUo,  is  Caer~ 
Caradoc,  a  mountain  so  called,  probably  from  its  having  formed  a  military 
residence  of  that  hero  in  domestic  expeditions,  or  on  his  retreat  after  suc¬ 
cessful  enterprises.  Roman  fragments  appear  upon  the  neighbouring  Myn- 
yth-y-Gaer.  There  was  an  extensive  woollen  manufactory  carried  on  here, 
to  encourage  industry  in  the  neighbourhood,  but  it  did  not  answer  the  ex¬ 
pectations  of  the  proprietors.  About  the  year  1808  the  bards  of  Wales 
held  their  annual  meeting,  agreeably  to  ancient  custom,  upon  an  adjoining 
hill.  A  person  of  some  fortune  ridiculously  suspected  it  to  be  a  political 
meeting,  raised  a  posse  commitatis,  and  dispersed  them.  They,  however, 
re-assembled  at  Caerphilly  Castle,  being  a  soil  more  congenial  to  their  taste. 
Dr.  Price^  a  moralist  and  political  writer,  also  his  nephew,  G.  C.  Morgan, 
author  of  several  valuable  philosophical  papers,  were  natives  of  this  place. 

The  Ogmore  has  always  been  distinguished  for  its  salmon,  and  there 
are  few  rivers  in  Wales  more  productive  of  this  fish.  Notwithstanding  every 
destructive  engine  that  ingenuity  can  invent  is  made  use  of  for  their  capture 
by  the  idle  and  dissolute  population  of  Bridgend,  the  supply  of  salmon  and 
sewin  appears  to  suffer  no  diminution  ;  and  the  skilful,  persevering,  fisher¬ 
man  need  on  no  occasion  return  home  with  an  empty  pannier.  From  the 
commencement  of  the  spawning  season,  at  the  latter  end  of  September,  until 
January,  parties  are  engaged  every  moonless  night  in  spearing  salmon  by 
torchlight,  whilst  roaming  upon  the  shallow  gravelly  streams  in  search  of 
a  suitable  spot  for  depositing  their  ova.  On  such  situations  they  congregate 
to  the  number  of  twenty  or  thirty  in  a  shoal,  rooting  up  the  bed  of  the 
river  like  hogs.  The  poachers,  aware  of  their  favourite  haunts,  assemble 
about  midnight,  and  having  kindled  a  small  bundle  of  straw,  by  means  of  a 
tinder-box,  one  of  the  party  holds  the  light  over  the  water,  being  closely 
followed  by  the  spearman,  armed  with  a  heavy  trident,  and  behind  walks  a 
third  person,  carrying  on  his  back  a  large  supply  of  fuel,  as,  in  windy  nights 
especially,  the  straw  is  rapidly  consumed.  The  instant  that  the  surface  of 
the  stream  becomes  illumined  by  the  torch,  which  renders  every  object, 
even  the  smallest  portion  of  gravel,  distinctly  visible,  the  whole  shoal  of 
salmon  dart  towards  the  light,  and  the  spearman,  instantly  selecting  the 
largest  fish,  hurls  his  weapon  Avith  unerring  aim,  and,  if  an  old  hand,  never 
fails  of  transfixing  his  scaly  prey.  He  then  immediately  throws  the  fish 
upon  the  bank,  and,  quickly  disengaging  the  spear  with  his  foot,  stands 
ready  to  repeat  the  blow.  It  frequently  happens  that,  if  he  strike  a  large 
fish,  the  poacher  is  compelled  to  leap  into  the  stream  ;  for  the  salmon  proves 
exceedingly  strong  in  his  element.  These  depredators  proceed,  in  a  similar 
manner,  from  station  to  station,  until  the  approach  of  day  warns  them  to 
depart.”  (^Hansard.')  •On  the  13th  of  August,  1838,  112  sewen  were 
caught,  at  one  haul,  in  this  stream. 

Mr.  Skrine,  leaving  Bridgend  on  the  r.,  ascended  the  summit  of  Newton- 
Down,  whence  is  seen  an  enchanting  prospect,  containing  features  so  varied 
and  sublime,  that  it  brought  to  his  recollection  some  of  the  finest  landscapes 
of  Italy.  Charmed  with  this  view,  which  a  declining  sun  displayed  to  the 
greatest  advantage,  he  slowly  descended  to  the  village  of  Pyle,  where  he 
found  an  excellent  inn. 


BRIDGEND. 


117 


Ogmore  Castle  is  situated  on  the  e.  bank  of  the  Ogmore,  near  the  road  to 
Cowbridge,  Glamorganshire.  Its  remains  are  inconsiderable^  consisting  of 
a  keep  and  some  outer  walls.  Caradoc  says  that  this  manor  and  castle  were 
given  to  William  de  Londres  by  Fitzhammon.  Hence  its  foundation  may 
be  dated  prior  to  the  Norman  conquest.  The  manor  courts  are  still  held 
near  it.  This  place  seems  to  have  been  entire  when  Leland  wrote 
his  Itinerary,  in  which  he  calls  this  fortress  Ogor  Castle.  At  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  s.E.  are  several  shallows  filled  with  water,  said  to  have  sunk  spon¬ 
taneously  ;  one  of  them  is  deemed  unfathomable ;  it  is  circular,  measuring 
about  7  feet  in  diameter.  According  to  the  custom  of  the  times,  a  religious 
institution  followed  the  acquisition  of  power.  William  de  Londres,  or  his 
descendant  John,  built  Ewenny  Abbey,  distant  1  m.  from  the  castle;  also 
near  the  road  to  Cowbridge  was  a  religious  institution,  appending  to  Ogmore 
castle,  by  Morris  de  Londres,  or  his  descendant  John,  in  1141.  Ewenny 
Priory,  Col.  Turberville,  2  m.  from  Ogmore  Castle,  and  about  the  same  dis¬ 
tance  from  St.  Bride’s.  This  is  an  excellent  fishing  station,  but  permission 
must  be  obtained  from  the  gallant  proprietor,  who,  it  is  said,  never  refuses 
it  to  the  fair  angler.  The  strong  embattled  walls  and  towers  which  appear 
among  the  ruins  of  this  priory  indicate  that  it  was  not  less  intended  as  a 
place  of  security  than  of  religious  rites.  The  hall  of  the  house  is  a  gloomy 
apartment,  in  which  are  several  racks,  which  seem  to  have  been  the  depo¬ 
sitaries  of  arms.  This  is  the  most  perfect  specimen  of  the  ancient  monastery 
to  be  met  with,  but  the  dilapidations  committing  on  this  venerable  remnant 
of  monastic  life  may  probably  rob  Glamorganshire  of  its  proudest  antiquarian 
honours.  A  well-planted  park  and  handsome  mansion  are  immediately 
under  the  eye,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 

The  Church  is  very  massive,  of  a  cruciform  shape,  in  which  unorna¬ 
mented  heavy  arches  rest  on  short  bulky  columns  of  rude  workmanship. 
The  columns,  plain  capitals  and  circular  arches,  denote  it  of  the  earliest 
Norman  architecture.  Every  admirer  of  Saxon  antiquity  will  be  highly 
gratified  in  examining  the  simple  and  original  architecture  of  this  church. 
The  broken  pavement  formed  of  glazed  earthen  tiles,  marked  with  devices, 
still  to  be  seen  in  some  places,  is  ancient  and  curious.  Several  monuments 
adorn  the  walls  of  the  chancel,  now  engrossed  as  a  cemetery  for  the  principal 
gentry  in  the  vicinity. 

The  simple  groined  roof  of  the  choir,  and  the  neglected  tombstone  of 
its  founder,  bearing  this  inscription  in  old  characters,  claim,”  says  Sir 
Richard  Hoare,  particular  attention.” 

“ICI  GIST  MORICE  DE  LtINDRES  LES  FVNDUR  DEU  LI  RENDE  SUN  LABUR.  A.M. 

In  the  southern  transept  is  an  ancient  altar  tomb,  supporting  the  mutilated 
effigy  of  a  knight  in  armour,  bearing  a  shield  on  his  left  arm ;  the  person¬ 
age  to  whom  this  sepulchral  memorial  was  erected  has  never  yet  been  clearly 
ascertained,  and  has  been  vulgarly  attributed  by  the  whole  tribe  of  modern 
tourists  to  Peganus  de  Turberville,  Lord  of  Coity.  A  happy  gleam  of  sun¬ 
shine,  a  pail  of  water,  and  a  broom,  enabled  me  to  ascertain  the  true  original 
of  this  effigy,  which  was  intended  probably  to  commemorate  a  friend  and 
follower  of  Morice  de  Londres  ;  — 

“SIRE  ROGER  DE  REMI  GIST  ISCI. 

DEU  DE  SON  ALME  EIT  MERCI.  A.M. 

The  orthography  and  character  of  the  letters  fix  the  date  of  this  monument 
to  the  same  period  with  the  preceding.  This  edifice  contains  many  other 
more  modern  inscriptions  to  the  memory  of  the  Came  family,  who  were 

I  3 


118 


BRITON  FERRY. 


possessors  of  this  estate ;  one  of  these,  more  stately  than  the  rest,  bears  a 
long  inscription  in  antiquated  verse  upon  its  base,  and  in  front  these  lines  — 

“  Here  lys  Ewenny’s  hope,  Ewenny’s  pride, 

In  him  both  flourish’d,  and  in  him  both  dyd. 

Death  having  seis’d  him,  linger’d,  loath  to  be 
The  mine  of  this  worthy  family.” 

There  is  a  square  camp  upon  the  hill  above  this  place.  Bridgend,  1  -i . 
To  Newton,  the  Ogmore  may  be  pursued,  and  the  elevation  of  Newton 
Down  attained,  whence  are  most  extensive  and  delightful  views,  embracing 
the  rich  fertile  vale  of  Glamorgan,  flanked  by  the  black  mountains  and  other 
British  Alps :  to  the  s.  are  seen  the  coasts  of  Somerset  and  Devon,  with  the 
opening  Channel,  which  disappears  in  the  distant  ocean. 

The  principal  angling  stations  near  Bridgend  are,  Bettws,  on  Ogmore, 
5  m. ;  St.  Bride^s  Major,  fine  salmon;  Pencoed,  2  m.,  on  the  Ewenny. 

To  Llantrissaint,  10|  miles.  Barber.  I  Margam,  8^  miles.  Evans. 

,  Dunraven  Castle,  5^  miles.  Malkin.  1  Cai'difF,  19  miles. 


BRITON  FERRY 

From  Neath,  2^  miles.  Malkin ;  Barber.  |  Margam,  7  miles.  Wyndham ;  Dono- 

j  van;  Evans;  Skrine;  Warner. 

BRITON  FERRY,  a  parish  in  Glamorganshire,  is  rendered  interesting 
chiefly  by  the  domain  of  the  Earl  of  Jersey,  whose  extensive  plantations 
spread  over  several  bold  hills  westward  of  the  Neath.  This  improved  navi¬ 
gable  stream  here  emerges  in  a  fine  sweep  between  high  umbrageous  banks, 
partly  broken  into  naked  cliffs,  and  at  a  short  distance  unites  with  the  sea. 
This  little  haven  is  surrounded  by  scenery  which  in  richness  is  perhaps  un¬ 
equalled  on  any  part  of  our  coast.  The  Earl  of  Jersey  is  the  proprietor  of 
Briton  Ferry,  and  has  an  unoccupied  mansion  here,  which  commands  the 
greatest  variety  of  prospects  these  include  the  winding  river,  a  broad 
sea,  and  a  succession  of  fertile  hill  and  dale.  Near  the  mansion  stands  the 
neat  village  church,  celebrated  in  an  elegy  by  the  poet  Mason,  who  with 
Gray  occasionally  visited  at  Baglan  Hall,  then  the  residence  of  the  Rev.  W. 
Thomas.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy.  A  bridge  over  the  river,  and 
a  road  across  the  Burrows  to  Swansea,  which  would  save  a  distance  of  7  m., 
has  been  contemplated.  The  Neath  canal,  14  m.  in  extent,  terminates  at 
Giant’s  Grave,  where  60,000  tons  of  coal  are  shipped  yearly.  The  mild 
temperature  and  salubrity  of  the  air,  with  facilities  for  bathing,  are  emi¬ 
nently  calculated  to  benefit  invalids  who  prefer  a  retired  situation. 

The  custom  of  planting  evergreens  over  the  graves  of  departed  friends, 
and  bedecking  them  with  flowers  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  particularly 
on  Palm  Sunday,  is  here  observed  with  peculiar  care ;  and  to  this  usage 
Shakspeare  refers  in  a  strain  of  exquisite  tenderness;  — 

“  With  fairest  flowers,  while  summer  lasts. 

I’ll  sweeten  thy  sad  grave  ;  thou  shalt  not  lack 
The  flower  that ’s  like  thy  face,  pale  primrose ;  nor 
'The  azured  Harebell,  like  thy  veins ;  no,  nor 
The  leaf  of  Eglantine,  whom  not  to  slander 
Out-sweetened  not  thy  breath.” 

This  practice’  of  strewing  flowers  upon  the  graves  of  friends  prevailed  in 
Scotland,  in  the  time  of  Drunmond  of  Hawthorndine. 

David  ap  Gwyllim  also  beautifully  alludes  to  this  practice:  —  O  while 
thy'season  of  flowers,  and  thy  tender  sprays,  thick  of  leaves,  remain,  I  will 
pluck  the  roses  from  the  brakes ;  the  flowerets  of  the  meads,  and  gems  of 
the  woods ;  the  vivid  trefoils,  beauties  of  the  ground,  and  the  gaily  smiling 


BUILTH. 


119 

bloom  of  the  verdant  herbs^  humbly  will  I  lay  them  on  the  grave  of  Ivor  !  ” 
See  his  Invocation  to  Summer/’  translated  by  Owen, 

This  part  of  Wales  is  so  mild  in  its  climate^  that  myrtles_,  magnolias,  and 
other  tender  exotics,  grow  luxuriantly  in  the  open  air. 

On  the  road  to  Margam  intervenes  the  delightful  scenery  in  the  vicinity 
of  Raglan,  and  the  little  creek  and  borough  town  of  Aheravon,  the  Aher- 
avonium  of  Roman  writers.  Though  its  copper  and  tin  works  add  no 
charms  to  the  verdant  fertility  of  this  part  of  the  country,  yet  it  is  orna¬ 
mented  by  Ty  n-y-caeau,  several  gentlemen’s  seats  and  pleasing  knolls; 
the  “  mighty  hill  of  Margam,”  1099  rises  grandly,  entirely  shaded  with 
oaks  from  the  base  to  its  cloud-capped  summit.”  The  bridge  here,  con¬ 
sisting  of  one  arch,  70  f.  in  span,  15  f.  in  altitude,  was  constructed  by 
Wm.  Edwards,  the  celebrated  self-taught  architect  of  Pont-y-pridd. 

The  carriage-road  to  Bridgend  is  near  the  coast,  but  there  is  a  grand 
ride  over  the  mountains  by  Llangynwd,  or  Llangonoed,  in  approaching  which 
village  are  three  antiquities :  on  the  1.  Careg-Uithrog  and  Foel-margam ;  on 
the  r.  Castell  Cock. 

A  pleasant  walk  across  the  sands,  at  low  water,  leads  to  a  ferry,  over  the 
Neath.  Tliis  route  lies  by  a  shorter  way  than  the  main  road  to  Swansea, 
and  is  preferred  by  some  as  avoiding  the  offensive  effluvia  arising  from 
works  on  the  road  beyond  Neath. 

The  road  to  Neath  lies  along  Cwm-Nedd.  The  windings  of  a  navi¬ 
gable  river,  through  a  vale  embosomed  on  each  side  by  low  sweeping  hills, 
accompanied  by  some  trees  scattered  in  a  verdant  bottom,  render  this  route 
pleasing.  Two  m.  further,  the  vale  greatly  enlarges,  and  exhibits  the  town 
of  Neath,  with  other  interesting  objects.  Gnoll  (see  Swansea)  stands  on 
the  brow  of  a  finely  wooded  eminence,  which  commands  an  amazing  pro¬ 
spect.  There  is  a  cascade  at  this  place  worthy  of  notice ;  but  much  inferior 
to  one  at  Melin-Court  (see  Swansea),  On  his  route  from  Margam,  Mr. 
Warner  passed  through  the  small  village  of  Baglan,  a  place  of  the  most 
romantic  beauty.  T.  J.  Llewellyn,  Esq.,  occupies  the  Hall  of  that  name. 

In  the  woods  of  Vernon  Park  Mr.  Evans  found  Salvia  verbenica,  Oro- 
bus  sylvaticus,  Melampyrum  sylvaticum,  Sanicula  Europa,  Hypericum  pul- 
chrum,  Hypericum  androssemum.  Astragalus  uralensis ;  and  on  the  shore, 
Arenaria  peploides,  Salsola  kali,  Eryngium  maritimum,  Chenopodium  mari- 
timum,  and  Chelidonium  glaucium. 

To  the  s.  of  the  park,  embosomed  in  a  native  grove,  stands  the  small 
neat  church  of  Llansawyl. 

To  Margam,  6^  miles,  Malkin  ;  Barber.  Neath,  2a  miles.  Donovan  ;  Evans  ;  Skrine ; 

Swansea,  5  miles.  Wyndham.  Warner. 

Aberavon,  Smiles. 


BUILTH. 

From  Rhaidyr,  14 miles.  Barber ;  Skrine  ; Warner.  |  Llandrindod,  7  miles.  Wyndham. 

Hay,  15^  miles.  Malkin.  J  Radnor,  11^  miles.  Skrine’s  2d.  visit. 

BUILTH,  or  Bualt.  This  appellation  is  derived  from  Bu-AlU, 
the  cattle  ascent,”  or  from  hu  an  ox,  and  allt  a  woody  eminence. 
The  town  is  situated  upon  the  n.  e.  edge  of  Brecknockshire,  on  the 
w.  banks  of  the  Wye^  over  which  is  a  handsome  stone  bridge.  It  consists 
principally  of  two  parallel  streets,  formed  of  a  connected  chain  of  shops  and 
public  houses.  Builth  has  become  a  place  of  considerable  resort,  on  account 
of  the  game  with  which  the  neighbouring  hills  and  woods  abound,  and  the 
abundance  of  trout,  grayling,  and  salmon,  with  which  the  streams  are  stocked. 
Builth  has  long  been  esteemed  for  the  salubrity  of  its  air,  and  the  singular 

I  4 


120 


BUILTH. 


beauty  of  its  position  upon  the  banks  of  the  finest  river  in  S.  Wales.  The 
magnificent  scenery  of  the  neighbourhood  has  induced  many  very  respect¬ 
able  families  to  fix  their  residence  in  its  vicinity.  Llandindrod  Wells 
also  lie  at  a  convenient  distance.  In  I69I  this  town  was  entirely  de¬ 
stroyed  by  fire,  and  is  said  to  have  once  extended  from  a  brook  on  the  e.  of 
the  castle,  (called  Glyw,  from  its  contiguity  to  a  sentiners  station),  to  an¬ 
other  brook,  called  Llogin,  falling  into  the  Yrfon,  on  the  w.  Some  toler¬ 
able  houses  have  been  built  of  late,  but  most  of  the  architecture  is  ordinary. 
The  church  is  a  neat  structure,  dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  whence  the  parish  is 
called  Llanfair-yn-Muallt,  and  is  situated  on  the  w.  edge  of  the  town.  It 
was  rebuilt  in  1793;  the  tower  contains  a  clock  and  one  bell.  The 
living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  with  that  of  Llanddewir  cwm  annexed.  In  the 
church  is  an  effigy  of  John  Lloyd  of  Towy,  dated  1585.  The  cemetery  is 
spacious  and  surrounded  by  a  wall.  The  size  of  the  church  seems  to  bear  a 
small  proportion  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  parish,  who  amounted  in  1881  to 
1034;.  Thomas  Pritchard,  a  native  of  this  town,  in  1752  gave  1800Z. 
new  South-Sea  annuities  to  trustees,  to  be  applied  to  charitable  uses,  and  in 
1759  a  bill  in  the  nature  of  an  information  was  filed  by  the  attorney-gene- 
ral  to  establish  this  will,  which  was  decreed  in  I76O,  and  the  application  of 
the  money  directed  to  be  laid  out  in  building  a  school-house,  paying  a  salary 
to  the  master,  placing  out  the  children  apprentices,  &c.,  but  no  house  has  been 
built  in  pursuance  of  this  decree.  (See  further,  Jones s  Breconshire,  ii.  288.) 
Inns  :  King’s  Head  and  Royal  Oak.  The  Castle  is  situated  at  the  e.  end  of 
the  town  ;  only  a  small  part  of  the  wall  facing  the  n.  remains.  The  site 
of  the  keep  is  about  40  or  50  yards  in  circumference ;  round  it  is  a  ditch, 
and  on  the  s.  side  were  two  trenches.  It  has  been  conjectured,  that  a 
bridge  crossed  the  Wye,  a  few  yards  lower  than  the  present  one,  which  led 
immediately  to  the  castle.  History  has  neither  transmitted  to  us  the  name 
of  the  founder  of  this  fortress,  nor  the  period  of  its  erection.  Probably 
Bernard  Newmarch  constructed  it  to  command  the  defile  while  he  subdued 
prince  Cadwgan  ap  Elystan  Glodryd.  The  present  Bridge  was  erected  in 
1770,  and  is  repaired  jointly  by  the  counties  of  Radnor  and  Brecon. 

About  one  mile  w.  of  the  town  runs  a  small  brook,  called  Nant-yr-Ariad 
or  Money-brook,  from  a  tradition,  that  when  the  plague  raged  in  Builth, 
provisions  were  put  down  here,  and  the  country  people  paid  for  them  by 
money  dropped  into  the  water.  Farming  is  the  chief  support  of  this 
neighbourhood ;  the  sheep,  cattle,  and  corn  are  sold  at  Brecon,  and  grocery, 
mercery,  and  drapery  articles  are  taken  home  for  the  consumption  of  the  in¬ 
habitants.  The  Market-day  is  on  Monday ;  the  Fairs  are  held  on  the 
third  Monday  in  February,  Monday  next  before  May  12,  June  27j  Oct,  2, 
and  Dec.  6.  No  family  of  distinction  has  been  noticed  here,  except  that  of 
Walcot,  now  extinct,  originally  of  Walcot  in  Shropshire.  The  mansion  in 
which  they  resided  was  situated  on  the  site  of  Whitehouse  e.  of  Builth. 
According  to  Llwyd,  in  his  time  many  specimens  of  ashen  red  stones  having 
leaves  of  plants  impressed  upon  them,  the  edges  minutely  serrated,  were 
found  in  the  vicinity.  This  neighbourhood,  which  forms  a  portion 
of  the  transition  system  of  geologists,  contains  beds  of  dark-coloured  flags, 
mostly  calcareous,  with  some  sandstone  and  schist.  Among  the  fossils 
are  several  trilobites,  especially  Asaphus  Buchii,  Agnostus.  TFith  these  de¬ 
positions,  those  of  Llandeilo  are  contemporaneous.  A  good  view  of  the  lake 
Llyn  Safaddan,  Llangorspwll,  or  Brecon-meer,  may  be  had  from  the  hill  above 
Builth.  No  coal  has  been  discovered  in  this  hundred,  and  probably  never 
will,  but  the  unproductive  bogs  in  it  supply  the  inhabitants  with  fuel.  When 
the  stock  of  peat  proves  insufficient,  coal  is  procured  from  Brecon,  at  the 
distance  of  1 5  or  20  miles,  over  bad,  uneven  roads. 


BUILTH. 


121 


The  Park  Wells,  situated  on  the  n.  extremity  of  a  large  forest,  about  1 J 
m.  distant  from  the  town,  form  a  considerable  attraction.  They  consist  of 
three  mineral  springs  ;  the  first  is  saline,  the  second  sulphureous,  and  the 
third  chalybeate.  Over  the  pump-room  is  a  neat  and  commodious  apartment 
in  which  the  visitors  occasionally  amuse  themselves  ;  and  contiguous  is  a 
lodging-house.  Notwithstanding  the  established  reputation  of  these  mineral 
waters,  for  want  of  accommodation,  many  leave  the  place  in  disappoint¬ 
ment. 

Just  above  Builth,  the  Ithon  joins  the  Wye,  after  having  received  in  its 
course  the  three  tributary  streams  of  Camarch^  Dulais,  and  Whefry,  At 
Dulais  bay  growGlaux  maritima,  and  near  it  a  white  variety  of  Erica  tetralix, 
Arenaria  marina,  and  Ostertripolium.  It  is  a  romantic  river,  and  in  its  vale 
is  situated  Llanwrtyd,  where  there  is  a  medicinal  well  of  much  efficacy. 

Upon  a  high  hill  named  Cefn-Dyrris,  about  a  mile  from  Builth,  is  a  hand¬ 
some  stone  residence,  commanding  a  very  fine  and  extensive  view. 

Aheredw  is  4^  m.  from  Builth,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Edw,  where 
it  joins  the  Wye.  This  little  stream  is  famous  for  its  trout  and  eels.  Within 
the  short  distance  of  i  m.  from  the  village  are  many  objects  of  great  in¬ 
terest.  The  churchyard  is  bounded  on  one  side  by  a  steep  precipice,  at  the 
base  of  which  flows  the  Edw,  which,  from  this  point,  winds  through  a 
narrow  defile  of  rocks,  rising  on  one  side  to  a  height  of  nearly  300  ft.,  and 
romantically  varied  by  alternate  stratifications  of  naked  cliffs  and  green 
sward,  partially  concealed  by  hanging  woods  ;  on  the  other  side,  the 
rocks,  though  their  elevation  is  inferior,  have  a  more  striking  character. 
Here  a  bold,  projecting  cliff  threatens  with  immediate  destruction  the  travel¬ 
ler  passing  beneath  it ;  there  a  perpendicular  wall  of  solid  rock,  upwards 
of  100  feet  in  height,  presents  its  unbroken  front,  richly  mantled  with 
mosses,  ivy,  and  other  parasitical  plants,  and  in  the  clefts  of  which  the 
larger  birds  build  their  nests.  Among  these  rocks  is  a  rude  excavation  about 
six  feet  square,  called  Ely welyffs  Cave,"  said  to  have  been  occasionally 
used  as  a  place  of  refuge  by  that  brave  but  unfortunate  prince.” — Hansard. 

To  Llandovery,  either  across  the  Yrfon,  by  way  of  [Llanganten, 
2  m.,  Llanafan-fechan,  3|  m.,  to  Llangammarch,  5-k  m.,  or  keep  on  the  left  of 
the  Yrfon  by  way  of  Maesmynis,  2  m.;  Llanynis  li  m. ;  and  Gwarafog,  4  m. 
to  Llangammarch,  3  m.  The  church  at  Llanganten  is  a  miserably  ill  formed 
erection.  Two  stone  tablets  within  bear  the  names  of  Rees  Price,  of  Kilmery, 
Esq,.  1690, and  Posthuma,  daughter  of  Rowland  Gwynne,  of  Glanbran,  1712. 
Rebecca  the  daughter  and  heiress  of  William  and  Posthuma  Price,  sold  the 
mansion  and  demesne  of  Cilmeri,  with  the  remainder  of  the  estate  to  Thomas 
Price,  Esq.,  of  Builth.  In  this  parish  is  Cwm  Llywelyn  where  the  great  and 
gallant  Llywelyn  ap  Gryffyth  was  slain.  The  banks  of  the  Yrfon  are  well 
wooded,  and  the  views  picturesque. 

About  ^  m.  on  the  r.  of  this  place  is  the  mansion  of  Rhos-ferig,ihe  posses¬ 
sion  once  of  Elystan  Glodridd,  prince  of  Ferlixor  Ferreg.  Yet  so  far  from 
being  a  rhos  or  moor,  it  is  now  a  highly  cultivated  farm.  The  situation  of 
the  dwelling-house  is  beautiful  beyond  description.  The  clear  stream  of  the 
Chwefru  runs  below  in  a  narrow  but  picturesque  dingle.  Beyond  these, 
upon  the  s.  side  of  the  Wye  is  the  woody  knoll  of  Parc,  contrasted  on  the 
N.E.  by  the  irregular  and  fantastic  rocks  of  Llanelwedd.  The  old  house 
sunk  under  the  ravages  of  time.  The  proprietor  of  the  modern  mansion  is 
John  Lloyd,  Esq.,  the  last  lineal  descendant  of  the  eldest  line  of  Elystan, 
who  resides  chiefly  at  Aberanell  in  Lllangammarch.  Parc-ar -Yrfon,  situ¬ 
ated  not  far  from  the  fall  of  the  Chwefru  into  the  Yrfon,  was  once  the  resi¬ 
dence  of  a  family  who  assumed  the  surname  of  Williams  ;  it  afterwards  was 
degraded  to  serve  as  a  farm-house,  by  Mr.  Marmaduke  Gwynyie  of  Garth.  It 


122 


BUILTH. 


is  upon  this  property  that  the  mineral  springs  before  mentioned  are  situated. 
The  Chwefru  is  remarkable  for  the  abundance  of  its  trout_,  which  far  exceed 
those  of  the  Wye  or  Yrfon  in  firmness  and  flavour;  it  empties  itself  into 
the  latter  a  little  below  Parc  House^  after  rising  near  Llyn-ffarlyn^  on  the  bor¬ 
ders  of  Llanwrthwl^  running  through  Llanafan-fawr_,  and  skirting  the  s. 
boundary  of  Rhos-ferig :  it  has  been  derived  from  Chwe  dwr  fri  (six 
waters  above^  or  from  chwefr^  swift,  and  wy,  water.)  Llanfechan,  or  Llan- 
afan-fechan,  or  St,  Afan^,  the  lesser,  is  a  parochial  chapel  attached  to 
Llanafan-fawr.  It  is  small,  partly  covered  with  shingles ;  in  the  yard  is 
an  altar  tombstone  inscribed  Samuel  Evans,  de  Gwarafog,  1779^  whose 
family  was  of  the  tribe  of  Elystan  Glodrydd.  A  narrow  slang  of  this  parish 
crosses  the  Yrfon  to  the  s.  At  the  extremity  of  this  projection  is  a  tremen¬ 
dous  precipice  called  Cwm  graig  du,  the  vale  of  the  black  rock,  terminating 
a  narrow  dingle.  This  hollow,  when  discovered  from  the  road-side 
near  the  summit,  though  rather  naked,  includes  the  ideas  of  comfort 
and  shelter;  from  below,  the  impending  rock  is  sublimely  terrific.  On 
this  side  of  the  Yrfon  near  its  banks,  are  some  pleasing  groves  and  fertile 
meadows.  The  mansion  of  Garth,  long  the  residence  of  the  Gwynnes,  de¬ 
scended  to  the  daughter  of  Marmaduke  Gwynne,  son  of  judge  Gwynne,  who 
married  Howel  Gwynne,  of  Bryniociau,  by  which  two  estates  were  united, 
which  have  been  since  divided  between  the  families  of  Garth  and  Glanbran. 
This  mansion  is  now  let  to  an  English  farmer.  At  a  short  distance  across 
the  Dulais,  in  a  field,  is  a  spring  resembling  the  well  at  Llanwrtyd.  Con¬ 
tiguous  to  Garth  is  the  church  Llanlleonfel,  through  which  parish  a  vicinal 
branch  of  Sarn  Helen  passed,  connecting  Muridunwn  with  the  station  at 
Cwm,  and  there  uniting  with  the  principal  Sarn  Helen,  from  Neath  to 
Chester.  This  little  church  is  situated  upon  a  small  eminence  on  the  n.w. 
side  of  the  river  Dulais.  Since  the  family  of  Gwynne  discontinued  to  reside 
at  Garth,  this  fabric  has  devolved  rapidly  into  neglect.  Upon  a  stone  tablet 
affixed  to  the  e.  pine  end,  above  the  communion  table,  are  the  arms  borne  by 
Judge  Gwyn  in  a  shield  and  mantle,  and  in  other  parts  are  various  inscrip¬ 
tions  to  the  memory  of  that  family.  The  n.  part  of  this  parish  is  chiefly  a 
common  or  rhos  ;  upon  the  banks  of  the  Yrfon  are  some  cultivated  enclo¬ 
sures  and  meadows  ;  and  upon  the  s.  side  of  the  river  is  a  mansion  called 
Guarafog,  or  summer  bank.  A  highway  from  Llanfihangel  Abergwessin  and 
the  wilds  of  Cardiganshire  to  Brecon,  crosses  the  Llandovery  road  close  to 
Llanlleonfel,  and  thence  over  the  Yrfon,  by  a  bridge  a  few  yards  above 
which  the  Dulas  empties  itself.  Llangammarch  church  is  covered  with 
shingles,  and  situated  upon  a  projecting  rock,  between  the  rivers  Yrfon  and 
Cammarch,  near  the  fall  of  the  latter,  consisting  of  a  nave  only.  The  banks 
of  the  Yrfon  are  finely  wooded  throughout  this  part  of  its  course.  On  the 
road  from  Llangammarch  to  Rhryad,  are  stones  placed  irregularly  on  the 
ground ;  hence  the  name  Rhos  saithmaen,  or  seven-stone  common,"’  pro¬ 
bably  to  commemorate  a  battle.  Llan-wrth-rhydd,  the  church  bythe  ford,” 
is  situated  upon  an  eminence  near  the  bank  of  the  river  Yrfon,  over  which 
there  is  now  a  rude  bridge.  This  is  a  wild  and  small  but  truly  character¬ 
istic  Welsh  village.  A  wooded  vale,  the  river  wending  away  into  the  defiles  of 
the  romantic  mountains,  embosoming  all  its  course  ;  cottages  of  true  Welsh 
character,  with  piles  of  peat  larger  than  the  houses,  and  that  sort  of  green  cool 
light  which  mountains  cast  over  the  landscapes  of  the  valley,  form  this  scene.” 
(^Hansard.')  Not  far  distant  is  an  ancient  mansion  called  Dinas,  possessed 
by  a  family  of  Lloyds,  descended  from  Rees  Lloyd.  The  house  is  plea¬ 
santly  situated  upon  an  eminence.  Upon  the  n.  rises  a  nearly  precipitous,  but 
beautiful  knoll,  covered  with  wood.  The  country  for  upwards  of  2  or  3  m. 
up  the  vale  of  Yrfon,  is  beautiful,  and  variegated  beyond  description.  About 


BUILTH. 


123 


1  m.  below  Dinas^  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Yrfon,  is  Dol-y-coed,  once  the 
residence  of  a  family  named  Jones^  now  a  public-house  established  for  the 
accommodation  of  company  who  resort  in  the  summer  season  to  a  Well, 
called  Fynnon-drewllydy  or  the  stinking  well.  It  was  discovered  in  Vt32, 
by  the  Rev.  Theophilus  Evans,  vicar  of  Llangammarch.  It  is  most  ef¬ 
fectual  in  scorbutic  and  cutaneous  cases,  relaxation  of  the  fibres  of  the  sto¬ 
mach,  and  in  all  chronic  distempers,  where  salt  and  acidity  abound.  As 
soon  as  this  water  is  received  into  a  glass  it  effervesces. 

The  COURSE  OF  the  Wye  to  Rhaiadyr  is  a  romantic  stage,  and  pre¬ 
ferable  to  every  other  route,  when  the  traveller  is  confined  to  a  single  visit. 
From  the  handsome  bridge  of  six  arches  at  Builth,  Llanelwedd  House 
forms  a  well  dressed  object.  After  a  mile’s  walk  near  the  banks  of  the 
river,  it  becomes  confined,  rapid,  and  majestic.  From  this  place  the  road 
bends  a  little  to  the  r.  quitting  the  Wye  for  a  dreary  common,  2  or  S  m.  in 
extent,  terminating  at  Pont-ar-Ithon.  The  rest  of  the  journey  to  Rhaiadyr 
becomes  extremely  picturesque,  various,  and  interesting ;  it  is  continued 
near  the  Wye,  in  all  its  twistings  and  deviations.  Pass  in  succession 
through  fine  woods,  over  barren  rocks,  and  across  dreary  commons,  till  the 
general  nakedness  of  the  country  is  relieved  by  the  plantations  about  a  neat 
liouse  on  the  r.  called  Llwyn-y -Bar vied  upon  a  declivity.  On  the  w.  side 
of  the  river  are  several  stately  groves  of  oaks  ;  the  meadows  on  the  eastern 
side  are  rich  and  cultivated.  The  pedestrian  may  take  a  nearer  path  along 
the  meadows  to  a  turnpike-road.  Perhaps  the  most  engaging  scene  in  this 
extent  of  country  is  about  a  mile  from  Rhaiadyr,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Clarwen  with  the  Wye. — Malkin. 

To  Brecon  the  road  lies  over  a  long,  lonesome,  and  boggy  mountain, 
whence  the  descent  is  into  a  pleasing  valley,  with  a  good  turnpike-road. 
See  Brecon. 

The  road  to  Tregaron.  Advance  1  m.  on  the  r.  is  Pen-y-pont,  on  the 
1.  is  Maesmynis,  about  1  m.  further  on  the  1.  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Yrfon,  is  Llanynis ;  to  Cefn-y-hedd,  1  m. ;  Llanafon-fechan,  1  m.  Cross 
the  Hulas  river  at  Maes-y-cefn-fordd,  l|m. ;  Llangammarch,  m.  (on 
the  1.  to  Llandovery,  14  m.  ;  on  the  r.  to  Rhaiadyr,  by  way  of  Llanleonfell 
and  Llanafon-fawr ,  about  the  same  distance).  About  ^m.  further  on  the 
r.  of  Pont-maes  is  Garth-house.  (Two  m.  from  Llangammarch  are  roads, 
on  the  1.  to  Llandovery  crossing  the  Camddwr  river,  by  way  of  Llancam- 
ddwr,  afterwards  cross  the  Yrfon,  leaving  Llanwrtyd  on  the  r.  Cross  the 
Cledan  and  soon  after  fall  into  the  Great  Road  ;  and  on  the  r.  to  Rhaiadyr.) 
About  7  rn*  from  Llangammarch,  cross  the  Gwessin  river,  through  Llan- 
fihangel-Abergwessin,  and  leaving  Llanddewi-Aber gwessin  on  the  r.,  enter 
Cardiganshire  at  Nant-y-Stalwyn,  5  m.,  in  which  space  the  river  Yrfon  is 
crossed  three  times.  (From  Nant-y-Stalwyn  is  a  road  to  Ystrad-flur  Abbey, 
on  the  w.  banks  of  the  Towy,  for  nearly  3  m.  and  afterwards  over  a 
mountainous  country  for  about  6  m.)  Ffrwd-y-gamddwr,  3^  m. ;  Fos-y- 
cenglau,  2^  m.  (on  the  1.  Llyn-Berwyn).  Cwm-Berwyn,  2  m. ;  Pant- 
seiri,  on  the  1.  m. ;  Cnap  sinni,  2  m. ;  Tregaron,  1  m. 

Pursuing  the  Wye  to  Hay,  1  m.  below  the  bridge  of  Builth,  the  small 
river  Dihonw  falls  into  the  former.  From  the  ferry  below,  a  beautiful 
reach  of  the  river  terminates  in  a  view  of  the  small  remains  of  Aheredw 
Castle,  of  which  no  history  has  been  found.  Its  remains  consist  of  little 
more  than  a  stone  wall,  at  the  extremity  of  which  are  the  fragments  of  two 
round  towers.  These  rude  specimens  of  art  are  finely  contrasted  by  the 
adjoining  immense  range  of  rocks,  presenting  ideas  of  towers  and  castles 
rising  out  of  luxuriant  plantations.  Near  this  charming  spot  the  river 


124 


CARDIFF. 


Edw  falls  into  the  Wye.  10  m.  from  Builth  on  the  r.  is  Llangoed  Castle^ 
purchased  from  Sir  Edward  Williams  by  A.  Macnamara_,  Esq.,  with  lands 
amounting  to  54,000  acres.  This  attractive  spot  derives  its  chief  beauty 
from  the  magnitude  and  position  of  its  woods,  which  extend  two  miles 
and  a  half  on  a  hill  that  slopes  to  the  Wye.  The  scenery  here  is  rarely 
surpassed.  For  the  accommodation  of  those  in  search  of  the  picturesque, 
walks  have  been  cut  on  the  margin  of  the  river,  which  here  presents  an 
assemblage  of  most  romantic  features,  formed  by  detached  masses  of  rock. 
After  an  extensive  sweep  of  the  Wye,  arrive  at  a  respectable  country  inn 
called  the  Three  Coeks. 

A  little  further  the  Llyfni,  after  having  run  6  m.  falls  into  the  Wye.  On 
the  1.  stands  Maeslough  Castle,  an  ancient  seat  of  the  Howarths,  the  residence 
of  Walter  Wilkins,  now  de  Win  ton.  Esq.,  M.P.  The  tower  of  Glasbury  is 
seen  to  great  advantage  on  this  route.  In  the  midst  of  this  rich  and  beautiful 
valley,  an  elegant  stone  bridge  of  seven  arches  was  thrown  across  the  river, 
about  the  year  1783,  by  the  family  of  Edwards,  under  the  direction  of 
their  father,  the  architect  of  Pont-y-Prydd.  In  the  winter,  however,  of 
1794,  the  bridge  was  totally  destroyed  by  a  torrent  of  ice  which  poured 
down  after  the  long  frost  in  the  beginning  of  179'5*  Approaching  Hay, 
pass  its  small  church,  situated  upon  a  high  bank  of  the  river.  The  purple 
hue  of  the  Black  Mountains  generally  affords  a  good  background  to  the 
scenery  around  the  bridge.  These  mountains  extend  fourteen  or  fifteen  miles 
towards  a  place  called  Monmouth  Cap,  about  eight  miles  from  Abergavenny. 

Fishing  Stations.  —  Gwenddwr,  7  m.  on  the  Wye;  Gwrafog,  5  m.  on 
the  Yrfon  ;  Llandewi-’r~cwm,  2^  m.,  excellent  salmon,  trout,  and  gray¬ 
ling;  Llangammareh,  9  ni.,  good  ;  Pen-yr~allt,  8  m.  ;  Rhosferrig,  1|  m., 
between  the  Wye  and  the  Whefri ;  the  latter  is  famous  for  its  excellent  trout; 
Llanhadarn-vawr ,  12  m.,  on  the  Ithan,  excellent;  Disserth,  5  m.,  excellent; 
Llandeilo-Grahan,  5  m.,  on  the  Wye,  an  excellent  spot  for  angling : 
lodgings  may  be  had  at  the  farm-houses  in  the  parish  ;  Trawscoed,  5  m., 
excellent  salmon,  trout,  grayling,  chub,  &c. 


To  Rhaiadyr,  14  miles.  Barber  ;  Warner. 
Brecknock,  15  miles.  Wyndham. 

Llandovery,  225  from  Llanwrtyd- Wells.  Skrine. 


To  Hay,  15|  miles.  Skrine’s  2d  visit. 
Back  to  Hay.  Malkin. 

To  Llandrindod  Wells,  7  miles. 


CARDIFF, 


From  Caerphilly  Castle,?^  miles.  Barber. 

Cowbridge,  12|  miles,  and  intervening 
places.  Malkin. 

Newport,  12  miles.  Donovan  ;  Evans  ; 
Skrine;  Manby. 


From  LlandafF,  2^  miles.  Donovan. 

Back  from  Caerphilly  Castle.  Evans;  Manby. 
From  Pont-y-pridd,  12  miles.  Wyndham. 
Bridgend,  19^  miles. 


CARDIFF,  the  fortress  on  the  Taff,  the  capital  of  Glamorganshire,  is 
a  neat,  well-built  sea-port  and  borough  town.  One  of  the  principal  streets 
extends  in  a  s.  direction,  nearly  from  the  Castle  to  the  New  Quay.  Adjoining 
the  latter,  a  commodious  range  of  buildings  has  been  recently  erected, 
which  contribute  to  ornament  the  place.  The  influx  of  strangers  during 
the  summer  months,  is  very  considerable.  The  sewen,  a  delicious  kind  of 
salmon,  is  abundant  in  the  Taff  river,  from  May  till  September.  This 
fish  is  found  also  in  the  Severn,  and  in  many  of  the  creeks  of  North  Wales. 

About  the  year  IO9I,  Robert  Fitzhammon,  a  Norman  chief,  and  kins¬ 
man  of  William  the  Conqueror,  made  the  conquest  of  Glamorgan,  and 
having  parcelled  out  various  lordships  and  manors  to  twelve  knights  who 
had  accompanied  him,  in  reward  of  service,  he  built  the  Castle  in  1110, 
and  reserved  a  territory  here  as  a  portion  for  himself,  where  he  resided 


CARDIFF. 


125 


and  held  his  courts  of  justice.  The  great  body  of  the  edifice  was  mo¬ 
dernised  by  the  late  Marquess  of  Bute  into  a  comfortable  dwelling-house^ 
which  does  not  harmonise  with  the  baronial  grandeur  of  the  ancient 
parts.  The  Marquess  of  Bute  is  proprietor  of  this  structure.  The 
keep,  exclusive  of  the  flanking  towers,  is  of  an  octangular  form,  appear¬ 
ing,  from  the  great  breadth  of  the  facets,  nearly  circular,  or  very  slightly 
angulated  within  the  walls,  and  presenting  a  clear  area  of  about  75  ft. 
in  diameter.  The  summit  of  the  mount  on  which  the  keep  stands 
affords  a  charming  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  castle  con¬ 
tains  some  portraits  of  the  Windsor  family ;  a  suite  of  whole-length  por¬ 
traits,  by  old  masters  ;  two  good  pictures  by  Romney,  painted  in  1783’; 
a  portrait  by  Vandyke,  another  by  Kneller ;  a  sketch  by  Ibbetson ;  boys 
playing  at  cards  by  Hans  Holbein,  1568  ;  a  crayon  drawing  of  John  Earl 
of  Windsor,  and  his  brother  Lord  James  Stewart,  when  little  children.  In 
front,  is  a  spacious  lawn,  from  the  shaven  surface  of  which  rises  an  artificial 
mound,  supporting  the  mouldering  ruin  of  the  ancient  keep.  In  a  dungeon 
of  the  tower,  at  the  entrance,  Robert,  Duke  of  Normandy,  is  said  to  have 
been  confined  for  the  long  term  of  26  years,  after  having  been  deprived  of 
his  sight  and  inheritance  by  his  younger  brother  Henry  I.  On  referring 
to  Shakspeare  on  this  subject,  we  may  imagine  the  ghost  of  the  departed 
Robert  to  appear,  and  with  piteous  visage  to  muse  upon  his  sufferings  and 
cry  :  — 

But  that  I  am  forbid 
To  tell  the  secrets  of  my  prison-house, 

I  could  a  tale  unfold,  whose  lightest  words 
Would  harrow  up  thy  soul,  freeze  thy  young  blood. 

Make  thy  two  eyes,  like  stars,  start  from  their  spheres. 

Thy  knotted  and  combined  locks  to  part. 

And  each  particular  hair  to  stand  on  end, 

Like  quills  upon  the  fretful  porcupine.” 

A  high  rampart  -surrounds  the  place,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  walk, 
offering  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  an  excellent  promenade,  commanding 
some  rich  views  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  noble  proprietor  of  this 
ancient  fortress  is  completing  the  Bute  Docks  at  Cardiff.  The  execution  of 
these,  at  the  expense  of  one  individual,  is  an  instance  of  enterprise  hitherto 
unprecedented  in  the  principality. 

The  high  tower  of  the  Church,  crowned  with  four  transparent  Gothic 
pinnacles,  is  of  peculiar  beauty,  and  forms  a  conspicuous  feature  in  the 
distant  views.  The  body  of  tbe  cburch,  however,  does  not  correspond  ;  its 
date  is  older,  the  architecture  Norman.  Within,  upon  the  n.  side,  is  a 
monument  of  Sir  William  Herbert,  and  Sir  John  Herbert,  under  a  canopy 
of  white  marble,  supported  by  four  pillars  of  black,  gilded  and  painted. 
The  organ  was  built  by  Byfield  and  Harris,  and  is  a  much  better  instrument 
than  is  generally  found  in  country  churches.  The  other  parish  church  (for 
Cardiff  is  divided  into  two  parishes)  was  undermined  by  the  washing  of 
the  Taff,  in  the  year  l607^  and  fell.  There  is  a  mouldering  ruin  of  a 
house  of  Grey  Friars  j^see  Newport]  ;  and  without  the  w.  gate,  once 
stood  a  monastery  of  Black  Friars.  The  town  was  anciently  defended  by 
a  wall :  the  vestiges  of  four  gates  yet  exist ;  also  the  ditch  and  a  watch- 
tower.  A  new  church  will  shortly  be  completed. 

A  handsome  stone  bridge  of  five  arches  was  substituted  for  one  of 
wood,  in  the  year  1796,  by  Parry.  The  spring- tides  are  prevented  from 
making  inroads  upon  the  low  lands  between  the  town  and  the  Bristol 
Channel,  to  the  s.  e.,  by  a  sea-wall. 


CARDIFF. 


126 

Wilson,  the  painter_,  was  born  at  Cardiff^  in  the  year  1714.  He  was  the 
son  of  a  clergyman  who  possessed  a  small  benefice  in  Montgomeryshire, 
but  afterwards  was  collated  to  the  living  of  Mold  in  Flintshire.  Wilson, 
though  neglected  while  he  lived,  is  now  numbered  with  the  classics  of  the 
art.  Scarcely  half  a  century  has  elapsed,”  says  Fuseli,  since  death  re¬ 
lieved  him  from  the  apathy  of  the  cognoscenti,  the  envy  of  rivals,  and  the 
neglect  of  a  tasteless  public.  For  Wilson,  whose  works  will  soon  command 
prices  as  proud  as  those  of  Claude,  Poussin,  or  Elzheimer,  resembled  the 
last  most  in  his  fate ;  lived  and  died  nearer  to  indigence  than  ease  ;  and  as 
an  asylum  from  the  severest  wants  incident  to  age  and  decay  of  powers, 
was  reduced  to  solicit  the  librarian’s  place  in  the  academy  of  which  he  was 
one  of  the  brightest  ornaments.” 

The  village  of  Roath  or  Rhath,  adjoins  Cardiff  on  the  e.  side. 
Williams  and  Charles  Crofts  Williams,  Esq.  Out  of  the  ruins  of  this 
ancient  town  and  Roman  station,  Cardiff  was  formed  into  a  principal  town 
by  Jestin  ab  Gwrgan  in  1080. 

The  Harbour  of  Penarth  affords  an  excellent  shelter  for  vessels  bound 
w.  down  the  Channel ;  and  the  junction  of  the  canal  gives  some  importance 
to  the  trade  of  this  place.  The  Sea  Lock  is  the  only  one  in  the  Prin¬ 
cipality.  When  the  tide  is  in,  vessels  of  400  tons  burden  can  be  ad¬ 
mitted  into  the  canal  by  this  machine  and  brought  near  the  town,  where 
there  are  excellent  wharfs  for  the  convenience  of  shipping.  The  Canal, 
which  makes  this  place  the  connecting  link  between  the  great  iron-works 
at  and  near  Merthyr  Tydvil,  and  with  the  English  and  foreign  markets, 
was  undertaken  in  the  year  1790*  It  commences  at  the  sea-lock  below 
the  town,  passing  the  e.  entrance  by  the  old  gateway  by  means  of  a 
tunnel.  Leaving  Llandaff  on  the  w.,  it  may  be  traced  among  the 
mountains,  sometimes  on  one  side  of  the  Taff,  and  sometimes  on  the  other. 
After  passing  Pont-y-Prydd,  and  before  we  reach  the  Quaker’s  Yard, 
observe  a  branch  turns  to  the  1.,  to  the  iron- works  of  .Aberdare.  The  fall 
from  Merthyr  Tydvil  to  Cardiff*,  is  nearly  600  ft.,  requiring  40  locks  and 
as  many  bridges.  The  extent  is  26  m. 

The  Taaf  Vale  Railway  is  progressing  very  favourably,  and  it  is 
stated  by  those  most  competent  to  give  an  opinion  on  the  subject,  that 
it  will  shortly  be  opened  as  far  as  Quakers’  Yard  from  Cardiff,  so  that 
all  the  coal  now  brought  down  the  Glamorganshire  Canal  for  shipment, 
will  then  be  conveyed  by  this  superior  mode  of  transit.  The  Bute  Ship 
Canal  will  be  completed  by  about  the  same  time,  and  it  is  confidently 
anticipated  that  these  two  great  undertakings  will  contribute  to  place 
Cardiff  in  a  much  more  important  position  as  a  maritime  town  than  it 
stands  at  present. 

The  tramroad  from  Tredegar,  &c.  to  Newport,  has  a  capital  of  400,000/. 
invested  in  it,  and  yet  pays  a  dividend  of  10  per  cent,  per  annum,  although 
the  vein  of  coal  in  that  valley  does  not  exceed  3  ft.  in  thickness,  whilst 
the  veins  in'*  the  vale  of  Taff*.  exceed  40  ft.,  and  are  inexhaustible  for 
centuries  to  come. 

The  extension  of  the  privilege  of  warehousing  at  the  port  of  Cardiff,  to 
all  goods  except  silk  and  tobacco,  has  lately  been  granted  by  the  Lords  of 
the  Treasury.  Within  the  present  year,  a  first- rate  harbour  capable  of 
receiving  vessels  of  600  tons  burden,  will  probably  be  completed,  affording 
every  accommodation  for  the  mercantile  interest,  capable  of  being  devised 
by  the  ingenuity  of  man  or  the  outlay  of  almost  unlimited  capital. 

The  Glamorganshire  and  Monmouth  Infirmary  and  Dispensary  is  si¬ 
tuated  here. 


CARDIFF. 


127 

The  Flat  Holmes  are  situated  nearly  10  m.  from  the  sea-lock  of  the 
canal,  and  3  from  the  adjacent  Steep  Hol3ies,  a  smaller  island  than  the 
former,  though  more  conspicuous  from  its  great  height  above  the  water; 
it  is  barren  and  uninhabited.  Penarth  harbour  is  commonly  the  place  of 
embarkation  for  the  Flat  Holmes,  which  at  low  tide,  is  an  extensive  sheet 
of  mud,  excepting  one  deep  channel.  The  landing  is  near  Castle  Rock,  a 
dangerous  but  romantic  beach,  so  called  from  its  similarity  to  a  castle.  It 
is  very  large,  and  resembles  Abergavenny  Castle.  In  the  centre  is  a  hold 
arch,  which,  at  high  water,  is  covered.  The  hollow  sound  of  the  sea 
roaring  through  the  arch,  the  waves  occasionally  retreating,  and  then  forcing 
their  way  back  with  redoubled  fury,  produces  an  uncommon  effect.  At 
low  tide,  the  shore  round  the  base  is  dry.  This  island  is  4  or  5  m.  in  cir¬ 
cumference,  the  soil  is  good,  and  would,  if  cultivated,  be  very  productive. 
A  lofty  Light-house  stands  upon  the  highest  part.  From  this  elevation 
may  be  seen  a  grand  panorama  of  the  Bristol  channel.  There  is  but  one 
house  upon  this  island,  whose  tenant  is  created  sole  lord  of  the  island  by 
the  corporation  of  Bristol,  and  entrusted  with  the  care  of  the  light-house. 
He  has  the  exclusive  right  of  fishing  round  the  shore,  and  works  a  profi  table 
coal-mine. 

Mr.  Manby,  in  proceeding  to  Caerphilly,  having  passed  2  m.  on 
the  road,  kept  to  the  right  through  newly  enclosed  grounds,  and 
ascended  Thorn  Hill,  from  which  place  he  had  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
country  towards  Cardiff  and  a  widely  extended  landscape,  including  an 
expanse  of  water,  which  enriched  the  scene.  Llandaff  also  contributes  to 
embellish  the  prospect.  Proceeding  onward,  the  road  appears  almost 
surrounded  by  mountains,  enlivened  by  partial  openings,  and  abounding 
with  collieries.  After  passing  over  2  or  3  hills,  the  ponderous  remains  of 
Caerphilly  appear  in  the  bottom. 

The  DIRECT  Road  lies  upon  the  r.  side  of  the  Cardiff  canal,  l^m.  Pass 
Maendy  and  Llystalyhont,  over  Cardiff  Heath,  the  race-course  being  on 
the  r.  Pass  Blue  House,  and  1  m.  to  the  r.  Llanishen,  and  Coed-Cochion, 
4  m.  On  the  1.,  New  House,  W.  Lewis,  Esq.,  1  m.  Ascend  Craig  Lla¬ 
nishen,  pass  Cefn  Carnau  on  the  h  Enter  on  Caerphilly  Common,  1  m. 
A  Meeting-house  occurs  on  the  1,,  to  Caerphilly,  1^  m. ;  in  all  7^m. 

On  the  road  to  Newport  is  Rumney  bridge.  The  church  of  Rumney 
is  a  large  Gothic  edifice,  with  an  embattled  tower.  Nearly  opposite  to  it, 
crowning  a  steep  bank  of  the  river,  is  Cae  Castell,  an  old  encampment,  of 
irregular  figure,  with  a  triangular  outwork,  and  a  little  further  occurs  an¬ 
other  of  a  polyhedrons  form.  Advancing,  the  elevated  mansion  and 
extensive  woods  of  Ruperra,  an  elegant  seat  of  Charles  Morgan,  Esq. 
appears  beneath  the  brow  of  some  hills,  bordering  the  vale  of  Caerphilly ; 
and  on  a  small  hill  below  stands  Cefn-Mabley,  the  property  of  Colonel  Tynte. 
It  is  noted  for  having  been  the  residence  of  Sir  Nicholas  Kemeys,  who  va¬ 
liantly  defended  Chepstow  Castle  for  his  sovereign,  against  the  usurper 
Cromwell.  At  the  rural  little  village  of  St,  Mellons,  the  old  and  new  roads 
to  Newport  unite.  The  latter  is  lower  and  shorter,  which  is  traced  on  a 
range  of  eminences  skirting  Went  loog  level,  an  extensive  fertile  plain  re¬ 
claimed  from  the  sea,  and  extending  from  the  Rumney  to  the  Usk  river,  is 
relieved  by  the  intersections  of  hedges,  and  a  sprinkling  of  white  cottages, 
among  which  the  towers  of  St.  Bride’s,  Marshfield,  and  Peterston  churches, 
rise  conspicuously.  At  Castletown  there  was  once  a  castle,  the  site  of  its 
citadel  and  chapel  only  remains ;  the  former  is  enclosed  in  a  garden,  the 
latter  is  converted  into  a  barn.  Gwern-y-cleppoi  park  next  occurs,  which 
contains  a  ruin  nearly  hidden  in  a  thicket,  once  the  mansion  of  Ifor-hael 


128 


CARDIFF. 


generous,’’)  the  pride  of  bardic  song,  who  flourished  in  the  beginning 
of  the  fourteenth  century.  Tredegar  ParTc  is  next  entered,  which  is  a  very 
ancient  seat  of  the  Morgan  family.  The  present  proprietor  is  Sir  Charles 
Morgan,  a  most  liberal  and  patriotic  character.  He  is  the  Sir  Watkin  of 
S.  W ales,  and  a  greater  compliment  cannot  be  paid  to  him  or  any  other 
man.  The  park  is  well  stocked  with  deer,  and  laid  out  in  the  obsolete 
style  of  groves  and  avenues,  yet  its  natural  beauties  are  considerable.  Forest 
trees  of  remarkable  size  and  beauty,  and  the  picturesque  course  of  the  rapid 
Ebhw,  are  striking  features  in  the  scenery.  This  magnificent  mansion  is 
constructed  of  brick  and  contains  many  spacious  apartments  ;  some  are 
curiously  decorated  in  the  antique  style,  particularly  one  called  the  oak-room, 
62  feet  long,  and  27  feet  broad.  The  fittings  up  and  floor  are  composed  of 
the  timber  produced  from  one  tree.  This  astonishing  expansion  of  a  sin¬ 
gle  acorn  affords  the  contemplative  mind  a  pleasing  subject  for  meditation. 
The  collection  of  pictures  is  numerous.  The  offices  are  extensive,  among 
which  are  some  remains  of  the  ancient  castellated  mansion  described  by 
Leland  as  a  ‘‘very  fair  place  of  stone.” 

The  following  route  along  the  coast  to  Bridgend  was  pursued  by  Mr. 
Evans.  Three  m.  from  Cardiff  is  the  Roman  station  of  Caerau,  called 
Cary,  or  Tref-Iwhwh,  latinised  by  Ptolemy  into  Jupupania.  The  land 
suddenly  rises  to  the  s.  and  on  an  eminence  stands  the  small  church.  Be¬ 
neath  this  are  various  fortifications,  consisting  of  valla  and  fossa,  which 
form  the  decumana  porta  to  the  w.,  and  the  prsetorium  still  visible  at 
the  E.  end  of  the  camp,  are  evidently  Roman  ;  several  smaller  works  appear 
also  in  the  vicinity.  This  was  the  “Tibia  amnis  ”  of  Richard's  11th  Iter, 
and  the  road  hence  to  Bovium  may  be  traced  in  this  direction,  passing  the 
river  Ely  by  a  ford,  still  retaining  the  name  of  Rhyd-Sarn,  the  ford  of  a 
Roman  road.  Obtaining  the  high  land  of  St.  Lythans  Down,  the  views 
are  exceedingly  fine,  and  crossing  it  to  the  s.  [a  delightful  valley  occurs, 
called  Dyffryn  ;  where  grow  Sison  verticillatum,  and  Empetrum  nigrum,  in 
abundance.  The  vale  opens  into  a  sandy  aestuary,  which  expands  to  the  r. 
and  1.,  and  embraces  the  small  isle  of  Barry  (from  Baruck,  a  hermit,  of 
noble  birth,  according  to  Cressy,  who  resided  and  was  buried  here,  a.d.  700,) 
about  li  m.  in  circumference,  and  nearly  opposite  to  Watchet,  on  the  coast 
of  Somerset.  Rabbits  constitute  the  principal  produce  of  the  farm,  which 
lets  for  80/.  per  annum,  and  contains  300  acres  of  land.  A  chapel  dedi¬ 
cated  to  this  saint  was  standing  in  the  time  of  Leland  ;  there  is  now  no 
erection  except  a  farm-house,  containing  lodgings  for  those  desirous  of  a 
retired  situation  for  sea-bathing. 

Off  Cardiff  is  an  isle  of  yore, 

Called  Barri ;  on  its  northern  shore 
A  cleft,  to  which  apply  the  ear, 

And  wond’rous  sounds  you’ll  straightway  hear  ; 

Now  like  the  blasts  of  mighty  bellows. 

Now  like  the  strokes  of  Vulcan’s  fellows  ; 

Now  like  his  grindstone,  now  his  furnace. 

When  making,  for  Achilles,  harness  : 

Yet  after  all,  ’t  is  but  sea-water. 

Perhaps,  that  makes  this  hideous  clatter. 

From  “  Higden,''  hy  Rev.  P.  Roberts. 

On  the  w.  side  of  the  islet,  facing  the  village  (where  are  the  remains 
of  an  ancient  castle),  a  few  scattered  stones  mark  the  site  of  an  old  chapel ; 
and  further  to  the  w.  the  remains  of  another  are  distinguishable  at  low 
water  ;  towards  the  s.  part  of  the  island,  upon  a  spot  called  NelVs  Point, 
is  a  fine  well,  to  which  great  numbers  of  women  resort  on  Holy  Thursday, 


CARDIFF. 


129 

and  having  washed  their  eyes  in  the  spring,  each  drops  a  pin  into  it.  A 
carriage  may  pass  over  the  narrow  creek  which  separates  the  island  from 
the  main  land,  at  low  water ;  but  the  road  leads  over  a  very  rough  bank  of 
pebbles.  At  Penmarc,  on  the  verge  of  a  deep  ravine,  stands  the  ruins  of 
its  Castle.  Fitzhammon  gave  this  with  the  manor,  to  one  of  his  knights, 
named  Gilbert  Humphreville.  The  church  is  a  good  structure.  ^  am.  to 
the  s.w.  stands  Castle  Fonmon,  situated  upon  the  brink  of  another  ravine, 
through  which  flows  the  Cenfon.  It  is  the  splendid  residence  of  Pobert 
Jones,  Esq.  This  castle  has  been  modernised,  its  windows  sashed,  and  its 
rooms  decorated.  At  a  short  distance,  upon  the  coast,  jets  a  foreland  called 
Break-sea-point,  often  fatal  to  mariners.  Indeed,  this  coast  is  the  terror  of 
those  who  navigate  the  Bristol  Channel.  Sunk  rocks,  and  dangerous  shoals 
lie  in  every  direction.  Numerous  vessels  are  wrecked  on  this  insidious  shore, 
and  the  cruelties  formerly  exercised  by  the  inhabitants  towards  those 
children  of  misfortune  surpassed  that  of  the  ruthless  storm  or  raging  ocean. 
Humanity  shudders  at  the  account  given  by  Mr.  Evans  of  the  rapine  and 
cruelty  of  those  human  vultures  called  wreckers.  He  asserts  that  their  aim 
was  frequently  to  murder  those  on  board,  that  there  might  be  no  surviving 
evidence  against  them.  They  stripped  even  children  and  females,  when  dead, 
cut  off  their  fingers,  and  tore  their  ears  for  the  sake  of  their  clothes  and 
jewels  !  The  village  of  Boverton  is  considered  by  Camden  the  Bovium  of 
Antoninus.  At  a  short  distance  is  the  remnant  of  a  Roman  road,  which 
appears  again  on  Newton  Down,  in  a  line  to  Neath.  This  place  is  in  the 
parish  of  Llonilltyd;  or,  as  it  is  usually  called,  Llantwit  Major. 

In  May,  1804,  a  most  extraordinary  occurrence  took  place.  A  young 
woman  died  in  childbed  at  Cadoocton,  juxta  Barry,  soon  after  delivery;  the 
infant  pining  |  for  that  nourishment  which  nature  designed  for  it,  the 
mother  of  the  deceased,  upwards  of  72  years  of  age,  put  the  child  to  her 
own  breast,  from  which  it  soon  drew  milk,  and  a  copious  supply  speedily 
following,  she  continued  to  suckle  the  infant.  The  mother  died  at  the  age 
of  35. 

To  Merthyr  Tydvil,  pass  the  White  Friars,  on  the  1.  to  Maendy  and 
Llystalybont,  m.  (1  m.  further,  leave  a  road  to  Caerphilly,  and  Cardiff- 
heath,  and  the  race- course  on  the  r.)  Gabalva,  unoccupied,  m.  to  the  1. 
with  Llandaef  beyond.  Whitchurch,  3^  m.  To  the  1.  upon  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Taff  river,  is  Melin  Griffith,  tin  and  iron  works,  R.  Blakemore, 
Esq.  (1  m.  beyond,  on  the  r.  Green  Meadow,  Wm.  Lewis,  Esq.,  and  fur¬ 
ther,  Castell-coch.  On  the  1.  opposite,  is  the  Lower  Garth,  with  Pentyrch 
forge,  and  coalpits.  Soon  after  succeeds,  on  the  same  side.  Garth  Hill.) 
Cross  the  Cardiff  canal  to  Porto  Bello  turnpike-bar,  2  m.  5  f.,  near  to  which 
is  the  celebrated  Taff ’s  Well,  now  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  (On  the  r. 
Dyffryn-ffrwd,  and  Craig-yr-allt.)  Dyfryn  Isaf  ^  m.  (On  the  r.  Cefn 
yr  Hafod,  on  the  1.  Willow  Ford,  and  Llantwittfardre),  Upper  Boat,  1  m. 
Hyffryn,  John  Bruce  Pryce,  Esq.,  -|^m.  (On  the  r.  Eglwysilan.)  Cross  the 
Cardiff  Canal  to  the  Bridgwater’s  Arms,  3  m.  1  f.  (On  the  1.  is  Pont  y 
Prydd.)  Continue  with  the  Taff  upon  the  1.  to  the  Quaker’ s-yard,  5  m. 
3  f.  and  Black  B7'ook,  \  m.  On  the  r.  Cefn-Forest,  Cefn-isaf  Pen-yr- 
inn,  and  Cefn- Merthyr,  to  Plymouth  Fmmace,  Anthony  Hill,  Esq.,  6  m. 
Merthyr  Tydvil,  1  m. 

To  CowBRiDGE,  cross  the  Taff  (the  course  of  which  river  on  the  r.  is 
from  Merthyr  Tydvil,  on  the  1.  to  the  Bristol  Channel),  on  the  r.  the  road 
to  Llantrissaint,  10  m.;  on  the  1.  to  Dinas  Powis,  Edward  Flerbert  Lee, 
Esq.,  4  m.;  2  m.  from  Cardiff;  on  the  r.  is  Llandaff  House,  the  residence 

K 


130 


CARDIFF. 


of  J.  Homfray^  Esq.;  cross  the  Ely^  at  Ely  Bridge,  1  m.^  the  village  of 
St.  Nicholas,  and  its  Churchy  4  m.;  within  1  m.  of  this  place  on  the  r.  is 
Coedrhiglan,  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Wood.  Passing  St.  Nicholas_,  4  m.  on 
the  1.  is  Dyffryn  House,  Hon.  W.  Booth  Grey.  [See  Cowbridge.]  Bonvil- 
ston,  belonging  to  Sir  John  Aubrey,  Bart.,  1-|  m.  on  the  r.  is  Cotterill,  Miss 
Gwynnett ;  and  a  little  further  on  the  1.  is  Llantrithyd  Park,  the  residence 
of  Sir  John.  Cowbridge,  4  m.;  1  to  the  r.,  previous  to  the  approach,  is 
Pen-y-llan,  Earl  of  Clarendon. 

A  Pleasing  Digression  may  be  made  in  the  way  from  Cardiff  to 
Merthyr  Tydvil,  or  Pont-y-Prydd,  by  taking  Caerphilly  in  the  way. 
Upon  White  Thorn  Hill,  we  find  a  very  extensive  prospect  of  the  Bristol 
Channel,  Gloucestershire,  Somerset,  Devon,  and  other  counties.  On  the  1., 
before  gaining  the  summit,  is  the  elegant  mansion,  surrounded  by  a  fine 
plantation,  lately  occupied  by  Col.  Capper,  whose  meteorological  and  other 
writings  recommended  his  talents  to  public  esteem.  The  traveller,  whether 
pedestrian  or  equestrian,  having  reached  Caerphilly,  may  thence  proceed 
in  a  direct  route  to  Pont-y-Prydd,  over  the  Eglwysilan  Mountain,  the 
summit  of  which  affords  the  most  extensive  prospect  in  the  county,  perhaps, 
in  the  Principality.  Descending  the  w.  side,  numerous  beauties  are  disclosed, 
which  open  with  a  church  on  the  r.  The  Taff,  winding  through  a  narrow 
vale,  overhung  with  fine  woods,  is  a  conspicuous  object.  The  canal  extends 
along  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  not  unlike  a  white  riband  laid  across 
a  carpet,  formed  of  the  varieties  and  colours  of  the  face  of  nature.  In  the 
distance  a  sea  of  mountains  is  presented  in  profusive  succession.  Descend  to 
the  canal  by  a  church  to  the  r.  2^.  m. 

At  the  Bridgwater  Arms  accommodations  may  be  procured,  but  the 
tourist  must  not  calculate  on  this  inn  as  a  home ;  he  may  beg,  indeed,  for 
attention,  but  he  can  command  nothing.  1  m.  further  on  the  1.  is  an  iron 
manufactory,  where  are  made  chain  cables  and  other  curious  articles ; 
quitting  the  Merthyr  road  and  canal  we  turn  to  the  1.  and  soon  approach 
Pont-y-Prydd,  the  celebrated  bridge  of  Edwards,  the  self-taught  architect. 
[See  Caerphilly  and  Pont-y-Prydd.]  If  in  a  carriage,  the  traveller  must 
take  a  different  route,  by  Nant  Garw,  where  he  will  attain  the  turnpike- 
road  from  Cardiff.  Near  the  latter  place  is  a  manufactory  of  Welsh  porce¬ 
lain,  not  inferior  in  quality  or  workmanship  to  those  of  W orcester.  This 
establishment  occurs  about  100  yards  from  the  turnpike  gate,  near  which  is 
a  little  public-house,  where  the  traveller  may  have  his  horse  refreshed, 
while  he  visits  the  works.  He  may  then  proceed  upwards  to  the  Bridg¬ 
water  Arms,  and  Pont-y-Prydd. 

Quitting  this  enchanting  vale,  we  advance  on  the  way  to  Merthyr  Tyd¬ 
vil,  by  the  Quaker’s  Yard,  4:[  m.,  with  the  Taff  on  the  1. 

‘^^Thb  Coast,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Severn  to  Swansea  Bay,”  says 
Mr.  Ayton,  ^Gs  tame  and  uninteresting.”  It  is  most  dangerous  for  ship¬ 
ping,  with  very  shallow  water  along  shore,  and  beset  with  sunken  rocks  and 
long  banks  extending  far  into  the  sea. 

The  Isle  of  Scilly  lies  4  m.  s.  w.  from  Pennarth  ;  and  2  m.  further  w.  is 
that  of  Barry.  They  are  both  approachable  by  land  at  low  water.  The 
former  derives  its  name  from  Reginald  Scilly,  one  of  Fitzhammon’s  knights  ; 
it  is  nearly  a  mile  in  circumference,  neither  inhabited  nor  cultivated.  Barry 
is  a  corruption  of  Baruck,  who  spent  the  latter  part  of  his  life  here, 
where  he  died  in  700.  According  to  Cressy,  he  was  a  Hermite  whose 
memory  is  celebrated  in  the  province  of  the  Silures,  and  region -of  Gla¬ 
morgan.  He  lyes  buried  in  the  Isle  of  Barry,  which  took  its  name  from 


CAERLEON. 


131 


him.”  This  islet  contains  300  acres^  which  maintain  a  few  cow'S  and  sheep. 
One  erection  upon  it  is  fitted  up  as  a  boarding-house. 

Angling  Stations. — Peterston,  on  the  Ely,  7  m.,  good  in  the  spring 
only;  Rhudwy,  8  m.,  on  the  Rumney;  Llayiwonno^  12  m.,  on  the  Taft' 
good  angling. 


To  Newport,  12  miles.  Barber. 

Caerphilly  Castle,  7|  miles.  Malkin;  Manby. 
LlandafF,  2^ miles.  Barber;  Donovan;  Evans  ; 
Wyndham;  Skrine. 


Along  the  coast  to  Dunraven,  26  miles.  Evans. 
To  Cowbridge,  124  miles.  Warner. 

Merthyr  Tydvil,  24  miles. 

Pont-y-Brydd,  11  miles. 


CAERLEON. 


Back  from  Usk,  74  miles.  Manby. 

From  Newport,  Mon.,  3  miles.  Coxe;  Barber. 
Penhow,  6  miles.  Donovan. 


From  Caerwent,  9  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Evans. 
Pont-y-Pool,  8  miles.  Skrine. 

Pencoed  Castle,  5a  miles.  G,  W.  Manby. 


CAERLEON,  an  inconsiderable  market  town  in  Monmouthshire,  is  the 
site  of  the  Isca  Silurum  of  Antoninus,  where  the  invincible  second  Augustan 
legion  was  for  years  in  garrison  ;  it  is  the  principal  Roman  town  in  the 
country  of  the  Silures,  and  is  called  by  Giraldus  Urbs  Legionum  ;  by  others 
Isca  Colonia,  and  Isca  Augusta  :  some  associate  the  present  name  with  that 
of  Lleon,  an  ancient  British  king,  who  founded  it.  Mr.  Owen,  author  of 
the  Welsh  dictionary,  is  of  opinion  that  Caerleon  is  a  term  derived  from  its 
situation,  near  two  powerful  streams  ;  Caerllion,  the  city  of  waters.” 
This  was  the  capital  of  fifteen  important  stations  in  Siluria.  Here  the 
Praetor  resided,  and  had  his  Palatium ;  here  the  eagle  was  deposited ;  here 
were  held  the  principal  seats  of  justice,  and  imperial  edicts  promulgated. 
Here  also,  subsequently,  was  the  proper  seat  of  the  primate,  St.  David,  who 
deserted  it,  probably  from  the  mere  desire  of  dignifying  a  place  to  which 
he  had  become  attached  from  eifirly  associations.  This  miserable  descendant 
of  that  celebrated  city  is  seated  upon  rising  ground,  in  a  deep  bottom,  sur¬ 
rounded  by  lofty  verdant  hills.  The  river  Usk  at  this  place  assumes  con¬ 
siderable  importance.  Caerleon  seems,  according  to  Giraldus,  to  have  declined 
as  far  back  as  the  fourteenth  century  who  remarks  that  many  remains  of  its 
former  magnificence  are  still  visible.  Splendid  palaces  here  once  emulated 
with  their  gilded  roofs  the  grandeur  of  Rome,  being-originally  built  by  the 
Roman  princes,  and  adorned  with  stately  edifices,  a  gigantic  tower,  numerous 
baths,  a  temple,  and  a  theatre,  remains  of  which  are  yet  standing.  Here 
we  still  see,  within  and  without  the  walls,  subterraneous  buildings,  aque¬ 
ducts,  vaulted  caverns,  and  stoves  so  ingeniously  contrived  as  to  convey  heat 
through  imperceptible  pores. 

Such  was  the  whole  extent,  according  to  tradition,  of  this  city,  that  the 
suburbs  on  each  side  of  the  river  covered  a  tract  of  country  9  na.  in  circum¬ 
ference,  extending  from  the  present  town  as  far  as  Christ’s  Church  and  St. 
Julian,  in  a  s.w.  direction.  Large  foundations  have  been  discovered  in  the 
elevated  grounds  to  the  n.  and  n.w.  of  the  walls,  particularly  beyond  the 
skirts  of  Goldcroft  Common.  At  present  the  number  of  inhabitants  amount 
only  to  1071j  including  those  of  Ultra  Pontem,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river.  In  the  church  an  extraordinary  rib  bone,  upwards  of  5  ft.  long,  is 
preserved  for  the  inspection  of  the  curious. 

Mr.  Cox,  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Evans,  traced  the  form  and  size  of 
this  ancient  city.  The  shape  appeared  to  be  oblong,  inclining  to  square ; 
three  of  the  sides  are  straight,  and  the  fourth,  like  the  n.  wall  of  Caerwent, 
curvilinear,  inclosing  a  circumference  of  about  1800  yards;  the  corners  are 

K  2 


13^ 


CAERLEON. 


gently  rounded.  This  survey  was  commenced  at  the  s.  angle^  near  the  ex¬ 
tremity  of  the  Round  Table  Fields  where  the  walls  exhibit  the  most  strik¬ 
ing  remains  of  their  ancient  structure  ;  their  present  elevation  is  in  no  place 
more  than  14  ft.^  their  greatest  thickness  11  and  12.  The  facings  that  re¬ 
main  are  of  hewn  grit-stone.  Near  this  angle  the  mortar  is  tempered  with 
pounded  bricky  particles  of  which  chequer  the  surface.  The  s.w.  side 
passes  the  Round  Table,  or  Amphitheatre,  parallel  to  the  Usk,  and  skirts 
the  lawn  of  the  Abbey,  part  of  which  has  been  rebuilt.  At  the  n.  extremity 
of  the  Round  Table  Field,  it  is  intersected  by  the  Broad- way,  which,  from 
its  straitness  and  uniform  breadth,  appears  to  have  been  a  street  leading  from 
the  fortress  to  the  meadows  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Here  was  probably 
a  gateway,  which  seems  to  be  marked  by  the  elevations  at  each  end  of  the 
breach.  In  crossing  the  stile  on  the  other  side  of  the  Broad- way,  a  Roman 
Terminus  was  pointed  out  to  Mr.  Cox,  used  as  one  of  the  cap-stones,  and 
bearing  the  inscription  termin.  Hence  the  line  of  the  wall  re-appears,  and 
continues  along  the  Bear-house  field,  where  a  foss  is  quite  plain,  but  only 
detached  masses  of  wall,  fringed  with  shrubs,  are  visible.  At  the  w.  angle 
it  turns  along  the  side  of  the  Malpas  road,  to  the  remains  of  a  gateway  lead¬ 
ing  into  Goldcroft  Common,  and  proceeds  in  a  direct  line,  occupied  by  several 
cottages  and  gardens,  where  the  foss  is  only  visible,  to  the  turnpike,  near 
the  junction  of  the  Usk  and  Pont-y-Pool  roads.  At  the  n.  angle,  the  wall 
forms  part  of  the  stable  of  a  public-house,  called  the  New  Inn,  extends 
through  gardens,  orchards,  and  tenements,  is  occasionally  lost  in  the  streets 
and  lanes,  becomes  again  conspicuous  in  the  castle-yard,  and  terminates  in 
the  eastern  angle,  which  projects  over  the  railroad,  near  the  foss  of  the 
castle.  The  line  of  wall  from  this  point  is  curvilinear.  It  passes  through 
the  precincts,  and  skirts  the  foss  of  the  castle ;  is  intersected  by  Bridge 
Street,  near  a  gate  which  has  been  recently  taken  down ;  forms  the  found¬ 
ation  of  the  gable  end  of  a  house,  formerly  occupied  by  Mr.  Andrew  Butler; 
passes  through  his  garden ;  is  lost  in  a  narrow  lane  leading  to  the  quay,  and 
re-appears  in  the  adjoining  field,  gradually  rising  in  height  till  it  ends  in 
the  s.  angle.  It  appears  from  this  survey,  that  the  foss  is  only  visible  upon 
part  of  the  w.  and  the  whole  of  the  n.  side.  The  four  principal  gates  seem 
to  have  been  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  four  sides. 

After  his  elevation  St.  David  appears  to  have  resided  some  time  here, 
Caerleon  being  the  proper  seat  of  the  primate ;  but  his  stay  was  not  of  long 
continuance  before  he  obtained  the  permission  of  Arthur  to  remove  the  see 
to  Menevia.  Bishop  Godwyn  says,  It  seemeth  he  misliked  the  frequency 
of  the  people  at  Caerleyion  as  a  means  to  withdraw  him  from  contemplation  ; 
whereunto,  that  he  might  be  more  free,  he  made  choice  of  Menevia  for  his 
see,  rather  than  for  any  fitness  of  the  same  otherwise.” 

The  present  town  lies  more  to  the  e.  than  the  ancient  Isca  Silurum.  The 
market  is  on  Thursday,  for  which  an  edifice  is  erected,  supported  by  four 
massive  tuscan  pillars,  in  which  appear  several  Roman  vestiges.  Here  is  a 
Charity-school,  for  clothing  and  educating  30  poor  boys  and  20  girls,  from  the 
age  of  eight  to  fourteen,  at  which  period  a  certain  sum  is  allowed  for  appren¬ 
ticing  or  putting  them  out  to  service.  A  master  and  mistress  are  appointed 
with  liberal  salaries,  and  the  whole  conducted  by  a  committee.  It  was 
founded  by  Charles  Hanbury  Williams,  Esq.,  a  native  of  the  place,  who 
acquired  a  fortune  in  London.  The  tin-works  in  the  vicinity,  together 
with  the  machinery,  are  on  a  very  extensive  scale,  and  will  be  found  highly 
deserving  of  examination. 

The  construction  of  the  wooden  Bridge  over  the  Usk  was  remarkable, 
being  similar  to  that  erected  by  Cjesar  over  the  Rhine,  described  in  his 


CAERLEON. 


133 


Commentaries^  of  which  Stukeley  has  given  a  plan  in  the  second  vol.  of  his 

Itinerarium  Curiosum/"  A  new  stone  bridge^  of  three  arches,  was  erected 
in  1811,  about  100  yards  below  the  site  of  the  former.  On  the  s.  extre¬ 
mity  of  the  old  bridge  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  fort,  doubtless  erected  to 
guard  the  passage  over  the  river :  Grose  has  given  an  engraving  of  this 
structure  as  it  appeared  in  1778. 

The  Castle  stood  between  the  s.  side  of  the  Roman  wall  and  the  river  ; 
a  circular  tower  near  the  Hanbury  Arms  forms  one  termination ;  the  other 
may  he  traced  in  two  round  bastion  towers  upon  the  margin  of  the  Usk.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  a  high  artificial  mound,  about  300  yards  in 
circumference,  the  site  of  a  citadel,  described  by  Giraldus  as  gigantic.  From 
the  summit  of  this  eminence  the  wild  and  beautiful  environs  of  Caerleon  are 
seen  to  the  greatest  advantage.  The  principal  objects  are  the  town,  gently 
rising  at  the  extremity  of  an  oval  vale  ;  the  bridge  ;  the  rapid  Usk,  flowing 
through  fertile  meadows ;  the  sloping  hills,  richly  clothed  with  wood ;  and 
Christchurch,  towering  like  a  cathedral,  on  the  brow  of  an  overhanging 
eminence.  At  Caerleon,  Mr.  David  Williams  says,  almost  every  thing  wears 
the  distressing  form  of  conjecture ;  and  under  this  circumstance  he  recom¬ 
mends  the  reader  of  his  History  of  Monmouthshire”  to  mount  the  Arx 
Speculatoria,  and  view  the  prospect.  His  imagination,  shaking  off  all  learned 
dust,  and  his  eyes  averted  from  human  splendours,  acquired  by  rapine,  vio¬ 
lence,  and  tyranny,  or  blackened  by  effusions  of  human  blood,  will  repose 
upon  the  tranquil  bosom  of  the  Severn,  which  opens  a  scene  magnificent  in 
extent,  and  graceful  in  its  outlines,  diffusing  delicious  sensations  of  sooth¬ 
ing  mildness  and  animation.  What  a  contrast !  emblems  of  the  atrocious 
deeds  of  men,  and  the  unceasing  splendour  of  divine  beneficence  ! 

The  house  formerly  occupied  by  Miss  Morgan  was  a  Cistercian  Ahhey, 
but  new-faced  with  stones  collected  from  the  ruins*  Among  Mr. 
Manby’s  remarks  on  this  place,  he  says,  I  cannot  take  my  leave  of  Caer¬ 
leon  without  an  offer  of  thanks  to  Miss  Morgan,  not  only  for  her  obliging 
affability  in  allowing  me  to  inspect  those  curiosities  which  are  in  her  pos¬ 
session,  but  for  her  laudable  pursuit  in  collecting  the  antiquities  of  a  place 
once  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  fame ;  a  pursuit  not  only  influenced  by  her 
general  wish  of  doing  good,  but  by  an  elegant  refinement  of  literary  taste. 
In  her  collection  were  coins  of  Julia  Augusta,  Vespasian,  Antoninus  Pius, 
Hadrian,  Nerva,  Plautilla,  Claudius,  Faustina,  Constantine,  Constantins, 
Carausias,  Magnentius,  Carinus,  and  Salustius ;  with  fibulae  crosses,  lamps, 
jasper  tessera,  &c.” 

Mr.  Nichols,  of  Caerleon,  had  in  his  possession  a  Roman  ring,  remaining 
in  its  original  setting  of  gold. 

In  the  wall  of  a  Bathing-house  was  a  very  anciently  inscribed  stone. 

Mr.  D.  Williams  informs  us  that  a  cabinet  was  formed  by  Mr.  George 

Hanbury  and  the  Rev.  - - ^  Burgh,  which  included  several  valuable  articles 

collected  from  this  place.  Detached  from  the  spot,  they  however  ceased  to 
interest.  A  museum  at  Caerleon,  composed  of  the  relics  of  its  ancient  mag¬ 
nificence,  would  furnish  new  attractions  to  visitors,  and  rescue  these  remains 
from  oblivion. 

The  most  perfect  part  among  the  extremities  of  this  ancient  city  is  in 
Round  Table  Field,  where  the  original  boundary  is  apparent.  The  wall 
here  is  about  14  ft.  in  height,  and  12  in  thickness,  enclosing  a  space  of  530 
yards  by  460,  the  longest  sides  pointing  to  the  s.e.  Contiguous  to  the  in¬ 
closed  ground,  but  without  the  walls,  and  adjoining  to  the  premises  of  Miss 
Morgan,  is  the  vestige  of  a  Roman  amphitheatre,  commonly  called  Arthur  s 
Round  Table.  It  is  an  oval  concavity,  74  yards  by  64,  and  6  deep;  in 


134 


CAERLEON. 


which  are  ranges  of  stone  seats_,  now  covered  with  earth  and  verdure.  It 
has  been  supposed  the  site  of  a  magnificent  temple  for  worshipping  the 
Ephesian  goddess;  some  have  thought  it  an  amphitheatre  for  bull-baiting, 
or  for  gladiators. 

The  Tin  Works  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place  are  capable  of  manufacturing 
annually  from  14,000  to  20,000  boxes  of  tin  plates,  containing  each  from 
200  to  300  plates.  Iron  plates  are  here  rolled,  and  iron  rods,  ship  bolts, 
and  square  bars  are  made.  The  machinery  of  the  mill  is  constructed  of  iron. 
Digging  in  a  quarry  between  Caerleon  Bridge  and  Christchurch,  near  a 
place  called  Forth  Sini  Cran,  some  labourers  discovered  a  large  freestone 
coffin,  in  which  a  sheet  of  lead  was  wrapped  round  an  iron  frame,  which 
contained  a  human  skeleton.  Near  the  coffin  lay  a  gilded  alabaster  statue, 
in  a  coat  of  mail.  Captain  Matthias  Bird,  who  assisted  in  the  discovery, 
gave  this  effigy  to  the  Ashmolean  Museum,  Oxford. 

In  this  neighbourhood  are  several  Encampments,  as  that  of  the  Lodge 
farm,  occupying  a  hill  near  the  park  of  Llantarnam,  about  1  m.  n.w.  of 
Caerleon  ;  that  of  Penrhos  a  short  distance  to  the  1.  of  the  road  to  Usk ; 
that  of  Mayndee,  near  Christ-church,  and  that  in  the  wood  of  St.  Julian  s 
towards  Newport.  The  most  remarkable  of  these  is  the  encampment  of 
the  Lodge  anciently  called  Belling stocke,  supposed  by  Harris  to  have  been 
the  {Estiva  or  summer  camp  of  the  second  legion.  It  is  of  an  elliptical 
shape,  the  dimensions  large,  and  surrounded  with  double  ramparts,  except 
to  the  S.W.,  where  there  is  a  quadruple  line  of  ramparts  and  ditches.  The 
entrenchments  in  some  places  are  not  less  than  thirty  feet  in  depth.  The 
entrance  is  to  the  w.  and  defended  by  a  tumulus,  twelve  yards  high,  placed 
in  the  inner  rampart.  It  bears  more  the  appearance  of  a  British  than  of  a 
Roman  encampment,  and  probably  was  tbe  site  of  the  British  town  on  the 
arrival  of  the  Romans.  This  conjecture  is  strengthened  by  the  authority 
of  an  ancient  chronicle  in  the  My vyrian  Archeology  of  W ales,  called 

Brut  Breninod  ynys  Prydain,”  communicated  to  Mr.  Cox  by  Mr.  Owen. 

Beli  the  son  of  Dyvnwal  Moel  Mud,  made  a  city  upon  the  banks  of  the 
river  Wysg,  and  he  called  it  Caer  Llion  on  Wysg ;  and  that  was  anciently 
the  principal  town  in  the  island.'’ 

From  Caerleon,  a  walk  leads  through  hanging  woods,  and  over  fertile 
meadows  to  St.  Julian  s,  a  place  remarkable  as  having  been  the  residence  of 
the  celebrated  Lord  Herbert  of  Cherbury.  It  is  situated  nearly  midway 
between  Caerleon  and  Newport,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Usk.  The  building, 
now  converted  into  a  farm  house,  has  been  reduced  from  its  original  size  ; 
part  of  the  s.  front  has  been  modernised ;  a  portion  remains  in  its  former 
state,  and  the  whole  presents  a  motley  combination.  The  n.  front  retains 
its  antique  appearance.  The  inside  contains  some  remains  of  former  mag¬ 
nificence,  particularly  in  the  stair-case  and  several  Gothic  doorways.  Near 
the  house  is  an  old  barn  of  small  dimensions,  once  part  of  the  Chapel  of  St 
Julius.  In  the  s.  wall  are  remains  of  an  arched  entrance,  now  half  fillea 
up.  The  E.  and  w.  windows  may  be  traced,  and  a  small  Gothic  doorway 
to  the  w.  Edward  Herbert,  first  Lord  Herbert  of  Cherbury,  was  the  fourth 
male  in  lineal  descent  from  Sir  Richard  Herbert,  of  Coldbrook,  knight. 
The  estate  and  mansion  of  Coldbrook  were  inherited  by  Sir  William  Herbert, 
the  eldest  son,  and  continued  in  possession  by  his  line.  Sir  Richard  Her¬ 
bert,  second  son,  was  steward  of  the  lords  marchers  of  N.  Wales,  and  seated 
at  Montgomery  Castle,  where  his  descendants  principally  resided.  His  great 
grandson,  who  resided  at  St.  Julian's,  was  son  of  Richard  Herbert  and 
Magdalen  Newport,  of  High  Ercall,  in  Shropshire ;  born  in  1581,  at 
Eyton,  ill  the  same  county.  He  contracted  marriage  with  the  heiress  of 


CAERLEON, 


135 


St.  Julian’s,  which  procured  him  that  estate.  She  was  daughter  of  Sir 
Wm.  Herbert,  of  St.  Julian’s.  He  studied  at  Oxford  before  his  marriage, 
and  returned  to  continue  there.  He  was  also  very  assiduous  in  learning  all 
bodily  exercises,  except  dancing,  for  which  he  says  he  could  not  find 
leisure,  employing  his  mind  always  in  acquiring  some  more  useful  ac¬ 
complishment.”  At  eighteen,  he  quitted  Oxford,  and  either  resided  with  his 
mother  in  London,  or  at  Montgomery  Castle,  till  he  attained  the  age  of 
twenty-one.  In  l608,  his  wife  and  he  disagreeing,  he  visited  foreign 
courts,  traversing  France,  Germany,  Switzerland,  and  Italy.  He  died  in 
his  house  in  Queen  Street,  London,  August  2.  1648,  aged  67,  and  was 
buried  in  the  chancel  of  St.  Giles’s  in  the  fields.  His  grave  is  identified 
by  a  flat  marble  slab,  containing  the  following  inscription,  written  by 
himself.  Huic  inhumatur  corpus  Edvardi  Herbert  equitis  Balnei,  baronis 
de  Cherbury  et  Castle  Island,  auctoris  libri,  cui  titulus  est,  De  Veritate. 
Redder  ut  herb£E,  vicesimo  die  Augusti,  anno  Domini  1648.”  The  estate 
of  St.  Julian’s,  and  the  title  of  Baron  Herbert  of  Cherbury,  continued  in 
his  descendants,  till  the  extinction  of  the  male  line,  by  the  death  of  his 
grandson  Henry,  who  dying  without  issue,  left  his  estate  to  his  nephew, 
Francis  He^'hert,  son  of  his  sister  Florentia,  by  Richard  Herbert,  of 
Oakley-park.  The  estate  was  inherited  by  his  son,  Henry  Arthur  Herbert, 
created  baron  Herbert  of  Cherbury  in  1743.  Having  espoused  Barbara, 
niece  and  heiress  to  William  Herbert,  last  Marquess  of  Powis,  he  was,  in 
1748,  raised  to  the  earldom  of  Powis.  The  estate  of  St.  Julian’s  was 
purchased  from  the  late  earl,  by  Mr.  Van  of  Llanwern ;  it  descended  with 
other  property  to  his  daughter  Katharine,  wife  of  Sir  Robert  Salus’oury, 
and  was  afterwards  sold  to  Mr.  Hunter. 

There  is  a  hill  near  famed  Caerleon, 

Which  if  the  sun  but  dart  a  ray  on, 

It  shines  like  gold  ;  hence  Goldcliffe  height. 

But  if  there ’s  gold,  ’t  is  not  in  sight. 

From  “  Higden"  hg  Roberts. 

From  Caerleon  Mr.  Cox  made  an  excursion  to  Llantarnam  House,  once 
a  seat  of  a  considerable  branch  of  the  Morgan  family.  It  is  situated  near 
the  highroad  from  Newport  to  Pont-y-Pool,  about  2m.  from  Caerleon. 
The  site  of  this  structure  was  a  rich  Cistercian  Abbey  of  six  monks.  In 
the  reign  of  Elizabeth  it  became  the  property  of  the  Morgans,  who 
resided  at  Cilsant,  now  called  Pentre-bach,  2  m.  from  Llantarnam.  The 
present  mansion  appears  to  have  been  finished  in  the  time  of  Queen  Eliza¬ 
beth,  from  the  old  materials  of  the  abbey.  The  only  remains  of  the 
ancient  structure,  are  the  stone  cells,  converted  into  stables,  the  walls  of 
the  garden,  a  beautiful  gateway,  still  called  Magna  Porta.  A  porch  within 
this  entrance  bears  the  date  of  1588,  wdth  the  Morgan  arms  in  stone.  The 
house  is  large,  antiquated,  and  rather  dreary.  The  hall  contains  several 
whole-length  portraits  of  British  kings  and  queens,  and  many  family  paint¬ 
ings  are  scattered  about  the  rooms.  The  gardens  occupy  a  flat  area,  being 
surrounded  by  high  and  massive  walls.  The  park  is  not  extensive,  but  is 
diversified  and  interspersed  with  plantations  of  oak,  firs,  &c.  The  vale  on 
the  r.  is  watered  by  the  rapid  torrent  of  the  Afon  or  Grey  River,  formerly 
called  Torfaen,  or  breaker  of  stones,’’  from  the  rapidity  of  its  descent  in 
rainy  seasons.  A  small  stream  also  diverges  to  the  h  which  in  such  sea¬ 
sons  forms  a  considerable  brook,  uniting  with  the  Afon  at  Pont-newydd, 
between  the  abbey  and  Caerleon.  The  church  is  situated  near  the  banks  of 
the  Afon  Llwyd,  at  the  n.w.  end  of  the  park,  fronting  the  abbey.  It  was 
called  Llan  Forfaen,  which  has  been  corrupted  into  Llantarnam.  A  chapel 

K  4 


136 


CAERLEON. 


upon  the  n.  side  of  this  church  was  the  cemetery  of  this  branch  of  the 
Morgan  family.  On  the  failure  of  the  male  line,  this  estate  was  bequeathed 
jointly  to  two  daughters.  It  afterwards  belonged  to  one  of  their  descend¬ 
ants,  Edward  Blewit,  Esq.,  of  Saltford,  who  in  the  year  1810  or  12,  let 
the  abbey  with  the  whole  estate,  on  a  lease  for  twenty-one  years  to  Sir 
Henry  Protheroe,  knight.  The  abbey,  with  some  land  adjoining,  is  occu¬ 
pied  by  -  Holingsworth,  Esq. 

On  his  journey  to  Usk,  Mr.  Cox  passed  along  the  upper  road  which 
crosses  the  Afon  Llwyd,  over  Pont  Sadwrn,  leaving  Penrhos  House,  and 
encampment  at  a  little  distance  on  the  1.  It  is  environed  only  by  a 
single  rampart,  and  the  form  is  nearly  square,  with  five  bastions.  This 
may  have  been  a  Roman  camp,  altered  and  strengthened.  Gently  ascend 
for  3  m.  to  the  top  of  an  eminence,  which  overlooks  on  one  side  the  rich 
groves  of  Llantarnam  park,  and  on  the  other,  the  beautiful  vale,  watered 
by  the  Usk,  and  bounded  by  the  wooded  acclivities  of  Kemeys  and 
Bertholly.  The  distant  country  is  broken  into  fine  inequalities  of  hill  and 
dale,  till  the  view  is  closed  by  the  dusky  mass  of  mountains  which  overhang 
Abergavenny.  Descend  to  Llangyhi,  so  called  from  the  church  which  is 
dedicated  to  St,  Cybi,  cousin  and  contemporary  of  St.  David.  To  the  w. 
of  the  village,  upon  a  gentle  slope,  and  under  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  is 
situated  Llangyhi  House,  belonging  to  the  ancient  family  of  JVilliams,  attri¬ 
buted  to  Inigo  Jones;  but  there  is  nothing  that  indicates  the  hand  of 
that  eminent  architect.  The  view  from  the  mansion  is  peculiarly  striking ; 
the  Usk  sweeps  along  a  rich  and  narrow  vale,  and  the  fine  curvature  of 
the  stream  is  here  presented  with  great  effect.  From  its  banks  rise  the 
bold  heights  of  the  long  ridge  which  joins  Pencamawr,  clothed  from  the 
bottom  to  the  top  wdth  wood,  and  the  hanging  groves  of  Bertholly  Place. 
Ascend  to  the  brow  of  the  hill,  on  w^hich  stand  the  ruins  of  Llangyhi 
Castle,  surrounded  by  an  extensive  tract  of  wood.  The  remains  consist 
only  of  a  square  tower,  much  dilapidated,  the  walls  of  some  apartments 
with  springing  columns,  and  part  of  the  roof  which  they  supported.  The 
outer  walls  may  be  traced,  enclosed  in  a  large  area.  The  architecture 
indicates  that  it  was  built  by  the  Norman  chieftains.  The  finest  view  of 
these  ruins  is  to  the  n.  from  a  paddock  at  the  footof  the  hill.  This  castle  was 
anciently  called  Trergreg,  or  Traygruck,  formerly  in  the  possession  of  the 
Earls  of  Gloucester  of  the  line  of  Clare.  It  is  now  possessed  by  a  de¬ 
scendant  of  the  Williams  family.  About  1  m.  from  Llangybi,  is  an  agree¬ 
able  prospect  of  the  bridge,  church,  and  the  castle  of  Usk.  Descend  to  the 
church  of  Llanhadog,  pass  along  a  road  which  for  some  distance  occupies 
the  whole  space  between  the  river  and  a  beautiful  wooded  precipice.  On 
the  r.  is  a  building  erected  for  a  Sunday  school  and  chapel,  with  a  dwelling- 
house.  Cross  over  a  stone  bridge  to  the  town  of  Usk.  This  is  the  carriage 
road  between  Caerleon  and  Usk,  but  a  more  level,  though  more  circuitous 
and  rugged  route,  leads  upon  1.  bank  of  the  river.  Mr.  Cox  details  this 
track  as  follows  :  —  Cross  the  bridge  at  Caerleon  through  the  village  Ultra 
Ponteni,  to  the  turnpike-gate  leading  to  Newport ;  turn  at  right  angles  into 
the  Usk  road,  and  at  a  little  distance  pass  a  hollow  way,  called  the  old 
Chepstow  hill  road,  which  was  formerly  the  common  passage  to  Caerwent, 
and  supposed  to  run  in  the  direction  of  the  Julia  Strata.  Continue  along 
a  natural  terrace,  above  the  rich  marshy  plain  watered  by  the  Usk,  and  at 
the  foot  of  Commander  Keineys,  under  the  chain  of  encampments  which 
occupy  the  summit  of  the  ridge.  In  this  route  occur  two  farm¬ 
houses,  called  Little  and  Great  Bullmoor.  About  1778,  was  discovered 
here  the  massive  foundation  of  an  immense  building,  consisting  of  hewn 


CAERLEON. 


137 

stones,  among  which  was  found  in  an  arched  recess  a  statue  in  a  sitting 
posture,  resembling  an  imperator.  The  road  passes  through  the  small 
village  of  Kemeys.  The  church  is  a  low  and  rude  building  in  the  centre 
of  a  field;  the  mansion  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  the  hanging  woods, 
and  under  the  summer-house  called  Folly.  It  is  an  ancient  seat  belonging 
to  the  Kemeys  family,  the  last  of  whom  sold  it  to  Laurence  Lord,  Esq., 
of  Banbury,  Oxfordshire.  A  fine  Gothic  portal  leads  into  the  court-yard, 
and  over  a  doorway  is  a  carved  figure,  holding  an  hour-glass.  Underneath 
is  Onys  chwyth  awel  fe  dei  fy n  amfer,”  i.  e.  time  passes  like  the  breath¬ 
ing  gale.  The  summer-house  was  erected  by  order  of  George  Kemeys,  Esq., 
Continue  under  the  groves  of  Bertholly,  till  the  road  be  left  to  cross  the 
Usk,  over  a  handsome  stone  bridge  erected  by  the  architect  of  Pont-y_ 
Prydd.  The  tide  flows  to  this  place.  From  the  bridge  ascend  to  Tre- 
donock  Church  to  examine  a  Roman  inscription  affixed  to  the  interior  of 
the  N.  wall,  to  the  memory  of  Julius  Julianus,  a  soldier  of  the  second 
Augustan  legion,  manibus  julius  julianus  miles  legionis  se- 

CUNDiE  AUGUSTiE  STIPENDIORUM  OCTODECIM  ARMOREM  QUADRAGINTA  HIC 
SITUS  EST  CURA  AGENTE  AMANDA  coNJUGE.”  Recrossing  the  bridge,  pass 
through  Llantrissaint  ;  the  church  is  a  large  handsome  Gothic  structure. 
Turning  to  the  n.  e.,  soon  enter  the  turnpike  from  Usk  to  New  Passage. 
The  road  next  winds  round  a  hill  to  Llanllowel,  a  small  village  which  once 
gave  title  to  the  lords  of  Llanllowel.  The  church  stands  close  to  the  high¬ 
road  ;  it  is  very  ancient,  and  in  a  simple  style  of  architecture.  Beyond 
the  village,  a  road  crosses  the  brook  Olwy,  and  continues  not  far  from  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Usk  ;  in  some  places  it  passes  close  to  the  stream,  and  in 
others  has  been  washed  away  by  the  torrent.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
Usk,  the  country  rises  in  regular  gradations  to  the  summit  of  the  elevated 
ridge  over  which  the  upper  road  extends,  the  woods  and  ruins  of  Llan- 
gybi  Castle,  crowning  the  eminence.  From  the  road  stretches  a  rich  and 
extensive  plain,  bounded  by  distant  hills ;  the  church  and  castle  of  Usk 
terminate  the  view.  This  plain,  which  forms  the  rale  of  the  Usk,  is  the 
largest  and  richest  tract  of  level  ground  in  the  inland  parts  of  the  county  ; 
it  extends  to  the  w.  and  n.  w.  of  the  town,  within  2  m.  of  Pont-y-Pool,  as 
far  as  Clytha,  and  Pont-y-Coifre  up  the  vale.  Toward  the  s.  on  each  side, 
the  river  is  bounded  by  mountains.  To  the  s.  e.,  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Olwy,  near  the  lower  road  to  Monmouth,  is  a  rich  tract  of  land.  A  dis¬ 
tinction  should  be  made  between  this  valley  and  that  called  the  Vale  of 
Usk  generally.  The  former  implies  the  valley  within  a  few  miles  of  the 
town  of  Usk  ;  the  latter  term  is  applied  to  all  that  portion  of  the  country 
which  borders  the  river  from  Caerleon  to  Crickhowel,  6  m.  above  Aber¬ 
gavenny.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  remind  the  tourist  of  the  distinction 
which  Mr.  Gilpin  judiciously  makes  between  the  words  vale  and  valley  ; 
by  the  latter  he  intends  the  diminutive  of  vale. 

Ascending  the  hill  towards  Christ -church  on  the  way  to  Newport,  is 
presented  an  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  On  the  w.  side  it 
expands  through  the  whole  of  the  county  towards  Glamorganshire,  bounded 
partly  on  the  w.  n.  w.  by  a  range  of  mountains  reaching  from  Twm-Barlwm 
to  the  Blorenge  and  the  Sugar  Loaf.  Towards  the  n.e.  lie  the  Devaudon 
and  Chepstow  Hills,  with  intermediate  vales,  bounded  by  the  Severn.  On 
the  s.s.E.  are  the  level  of  Caldicot,  the  Severn,  Derry  Isle,  Bristol  Channel, 
and  Flat  Holmes  ;  to  the  s.  appear  the  shores  of  Somerset  and  Devon. 
Upon  an  elevated  piece  of  ground  bordering  Caldecot  Level  is  seen  the 
elegant  mansion  of  Sir  Thomas  Salusbury,  who  inherits  the  estate  from  his 
father.  Sir  Robert.  [See  Newport.] 


138 


CARMARTHEN. 


The  entrance  into  Newport  on  this  side  is  over  a  stone  bridge  of  five 
arches,  completed  in  1800,  by  David  Edwards  and  his  two  sons, 
descendants  of  the  architect  of  Pont-y-Prydd  ;  it  was  built  by  contract  for 
10,165/.  The  ruins  of  Newport  Castle  may  be  seen  hence. 

To  Usk,  7.J  miles.  Coxe  ;  Barber ;  G.  W.  Matiby.  I  •  ham;  Skrine  ;  Warner,  on  his  return  from 
New^jort,  Smiles  ;  Donovan.  Evans  j  Wynd-  1  the  Usk. 


CARMARTHEN. 


From  Kidwelly,  9  miles.  Barber. 

Llanstephan,  8  miles.  Malkin  ;  Evans. 
Swansea,  22  miles.  Donovan. 

Tenby,  by  Tavernspite,  27  miles.  Warner. 


From  Llandeilo-fawr,  15'miles.  Wyndham. 
Newcastle,  20''miles.  Lipscomb. 
Tenby,  by  Coldblow,  30  miles. 


CARMARTHEN,  an  inland  port,  borough,  parish,  and  county  of  itself, 
is  one  of  the  most  wealthy  and  polite  towns  in  Wales  ;  elevated  above  the 
navigable  river  TyAvi  or  Towy,  it  commands  a  full  view  of  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  vales  in  the  Principality.  This  place  was  the  Caer  Fyrddin  (cor¬ 
responding  with  the  appellation  of  Giraldus,  who  calls  it  Urbs  anti  qua 
coctilibus  muris”)  of  the  Britons,  the  Maridunum  of  Ptolemy,  and  the 
Muridunum  of  Antoninus.  The  former  accounted  it  the  capital  of  all 
Wales;  here  the  Welsh  held  their  parliaments  or  assemblies  of  wise  men,  and 
established  here  their  chancery  and  exchequer.  When  the  Normans  invaded 
Wales,  this  town  felt  severely  the  miseries  of  war,  being  often  besieged, 
and  twice  burnt  by  the  W elsh  princes  :  Gilbert  Earl  of  Clare,  however,  at 
length  established  his  authority  here  beyond  the  reach  of  their  attempts. 
Most  of  the  streets  are  very  steep,  and  irregularly  built  ;  yet  there  are 
many  good  houses,  belonging  to  the  neighbouring  gentry,  who  resort  hither 
in  the  winter  months. 

The  town  is  a  mile  in  length,  and  half  that  extent  in  breadth,  con¬ 
taining  several  streets  well-paved  and  lighted  with  gas,  of  which  the 
two  principal  meet  near  the  butter-market,  which  forms  the  central 
point.  The  old  buildings  have  of  late  been  modernised,  and  new 
ones  affording  more  comfort  and  displaying  more  taste  have  succeeded 
them.  Among  the  fruits  of  this  spirit  of  improvement,  are  Picton  Terrace 
and  Waterloo  Place,  Iron  pipes,  at  the  expense  of  the  corporation,  conduct  a 
full  supply  of  water  from  the  neighbouring  springs.  A  column  at  the  western 
end  of  the  town  memorialises  Lieut.  General  Sir  Thomas  Picton,  G.C.B. 
who  represented  the  borough  in  parliament,  and  was  slain  at  Waterloo. 
Here  are  established  the  Cambrian  and  a  Cwmreigyddion  Society,  the 
former  for  the  preservation  of  ancient  British  literature  and  national  music, 
and  the  latter  for  the  encouragement  of  Welsh  poetry.  The  business  of 
both  these  institutions  is  conducted  here.  The  theatre  is  a  mean  structure, 
open  in  November  and  December  of  each  year.  Concerts  and  balls  take  place 
occasionally,  also  races  in  September,  on  the  course  situated  4  m.  higher  up 
the  vale.  The  port,  though  only  a  creek  to  Llanelly,  carries  on  a  foreign 
and  very  considerable  coasting  trade:  51  vessels  are  registered  here, 
of  which  the  average  burden  may  be  estimated  at  2195  tons.  They  afford 
employment  to  152  men.  The  Towy  is  famed  for  its  salmon  and  sewin.  A 
handsome  Town-Hall  of  freestone,  with  colonnades  of  the  Ionic  order,  and  a 
Market- House,  do  credit  to  the  public  spirit  of  the  town.  A  free  grammar 
school  was  founded  here  by  the  Rev.  Morgan  Owen,  D.D.  Here  is  also 
an  institution  called  the  Presbyterian  College,  under  the  direction  of  a  board 
of  directors  at  London.  Twelve  students  receive  from  this  establishment 


CARMARTHEN. 


139 

an  allowance  for  four  years  of  20Z.  per  annum,  for  support  during  their 
studies.  Many  distinguished  ministers  have  been  educated  here  Candi¬ 
dates  for  the  ministry  of  the  Church  of  England  were  formerly  admitted 
to  share  in  the  advantages  afforded  by  a  theological  library  and  philosophical 
apparatus.  Dr.  Abraham  Rees,  author  of  the  Encyclopsedia  distinguished 
by  that  name,  was  a  visitor  of  this  institution,  with  J.  Jones,  LL.  D.,  author 
of  the  Greek  and  English  Lexicon.  There  are  two  places  of  worship  here 
for  Baptists,  Independents,  and  Wesleyan  Methodists,  and  one  each  for 
Calvinistic  Methodists  and  Unitarians.  Here  are  National,  Lancasterian 
and  Sunday  schools. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  town,  is  a  clean  and  well-regulated  Alms¬ 
house.  Whitened  houses  with  red  brick  chimneys  prevail  here.  White 
is  seldom  pleasing  in  either  town  or  country  ;  it  is  a  transgression  against 
nature,  and,  in  a  picturesque  sense,  inharmonious.  A  stone  colour  might 
be  as  easily  applied  as  white,  red,  or  yellow.  Of  the  Castle  little  is  known, 
though  it  was  the  seat  of  the  Welsh  princes,  before  the  royal  residence  was 
transferred  to  Dinevor,  a  place  strongly  fortified  by  nature  and  art,  and 
more  suited  to  the  character  of  the  age  than  their  ancient  residence.  What 
remains  has  been  converted  into  the  county  gaol.  We  have  no  account  of 
its  foundation,  but  it  was  intrusted  by  the  Normans  and  Flemings,  in  the 
year  lll6,  to  Owain  ap  Caradoc,  and  Rhydderch  ap  Tudor,  to  take  the 
defence  of  it  for  Henry  I.  by  alternate  fortnights.  Gruffydd  ab  Rhys,  under¬ 
standing  there  was  a  favourable  opportunity,  came  suddenly  with  his  forces 
upon  the  town.  Owain  ap  Caradoc,  then  on  duty,  rushed  immediately  to  the 
point  of  attack,  expecting  his  men  to  have  followed  him ;  but  the  greater 
part  of  them  fled,  and  Owain  was  slain.  The  town  was  destroyed,  and  the 
castle  much  defaced.  Owain  Gwynedd  burned  Carmarthen  in  the  year 
1437^  the  first  of  his  reign.  About  1143  the  castle  was  rebuilt  by  Gilbert 
Earl  of  Clare,  but  almost  immediately  relinquished  to  Meredydd  and  Rhys, 
who  besieged  it.  In  1195  Rhys  ap  Gruffydd  besieged  and  overthrew  both 
the  town  and  castle.  Scarcely  any  part  of  the  walls  which  encompassed  the 
town  are  visible.  One  wing  of  an  old  Priory,  including  a  handsome  gate¬ 
way,  yet  remains.  Some  of  the  apartments  are  inhabited  by  poor  people. 
The  Priory  Church  is  extinct.  In  the  chancel  of  the  Church,  dedicated  to  St. 
Peter,  there  is  a  monument  bearing  two  recumbent  figures,  said  to  represent 
Sir  Rhys  ap  Thomas  and  his  lady :  they  were  brought  from  the  Priory. 

tier  Majesty  Queen  Adelaide  has  been  graciously  pleased  not  merely  to 
contribute  most  munificently  towards  the  removing  and  rebuilding  of  the 
church,  but  to  allow  her  Majesty’s  name  to  stand  forth  at  the  head  of  the 
subscription  list. 

Two  years  since,  a  new  church  was  opened  for  public  worship.  It  is 
regularly  filled,  and  the  old  church  since  that  period  is  better  attended 
than  ever ;  the  ministers  of  both  rejoicing  in  each  other’s  labours 
and  success. 

The  trade  of  this  place  is  much  facilitated  by  the  fine  river  Towy, 
which  conveys  ships  of  250  tons  up  to  the  bridge.  Its  manufactures 
consist  of  tin-plate,  and  cast-iron  ;  the  works  in  both  branches  are  not 
extensive.  The  Fairs  are  held  June  5.,  July  10.,  August  12.,  September  Q., 
October  Q.,  November  14.,  for  cattle,  horses,  and  pedlary.  The  Markets  on 
Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  are  abundantly  supplied  with  all  sorts 
of  provisions,  especially  of  the  choicest  fish. 

In  1831,  the  population  amounted  to  9995  inhabitants.  The  borough 
returns  one  member  to  parliament.  This  privilege  was  vested  in  the 
burgesses  by  Henry  VIII.  James  I,  constituted  the  county  of  the  borough 


140 


CARMARTHEN. 


of  Carmarthen.  The  government  of  the  corporation  is  vested  in  a  mayor^ 
recorder,  two  sheriffs,  twenty-two  common,  council  men,  and  an  indefinite 
number  of  burgesses.  The  mayor  is  also  coroner,  clerk  of  the  market,  and 
Queen’s  admiral  on  the  river  Towy,  with  a  small  jurisdiction  as  far 
as  the  bay.  Here  is  a  court  for  the  registry  of  wills,  &c.  under  the  juris¬ 
diction  of  the  see  of  St.  David’s.  Pant-y-Kendy^  a  substantial  brick 
mansion,  occurs  in  the  vicinity ;  the  present  proprietor  is  L.  Evans,  Esq.; 
this  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  residences  near  Carmarthen.  Not  long  since 
a  Roman  urn  was  discovered  here,  which,  on  being  removed,  fell  in  pieces. 

About  2  m.  from  Carmarthen  is  an  eminence  called  Merlins  Hilly  near 
the  brow  of  which  is  Merlin’s  chair.  Here,  superstition  says,  the  famous 
prophet  used  to  sit,  when  he  uttered  his  prophecies.  Many  travellers  visit 
this  cave  ;  it  is  in  the  parish  of  Abergwili.  Merlin  appears  to  have  been 
neither  more  nor  less  than  a  man  of  extraordinary  wisdom  and  learning, 
which,  no  doubt,  occasioned  him  to  be  looked  on  as  a  magician  in  that  dark 
age,  and  transmitted  as  such  to  posterity  by  monkish  writers,  who  regarded 
with  a  jealous  eye  all  knowledge  possessed  out  of  their  own  pale.  Here 
was  born  Lewis  Baily,  chaplain  to  James  I.,  afterwards  bishop  of  Bangor, 
and  author  of  the  celebrated  “  Practice  of  Piety.”  A  small  estate  in  the 
vale  of  Towy  was  the  last  retreat  of  Sir  Richard  Steele,  where  he  suffered  a 
paralytic  stroke,  which  greatly  impaired  his  mental  faculties.  Ty-gwyn, 
the  farm  he  possessed,  occurs  within  a  ^  m.  of  the  town.  The  principal 
Inns  are  the  Boar’s  Head,  Lion,  Royal  Hotel,  and  Ivy  Bush ;  the 
latter  was  once  the  property  of  Sir  Richard  Steele,  who  was  interred  in  the 
family  vault  of  the  Scurlochs  in  St.  Peter’s  Church.  'VTalter  D’Evereux, 
Earl  of  Essex,  father  of  the  nobleman  who  suffered  in  the  reign  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  was  buried  at  Carmarthen.  Close  to  the  n.  side  of  the  town  is 
the  site  of  a  Roman  camp  of  large  dimensions ;  the  ditches  and  embank¬ 
ments  are  perfectly  distinguishable. 

On  a  COASTING  excursion,  after  crossing  the  ferry  from  Llanstephan 
Castle,  nothing  remarkably  interesting  occurs  till  the  little  trading  town  of 
Kidwelly  appears. 

On  the  way  to  Llanstephan  Castle,  the  high  road  is  left  for  a  narrow 
embowered  lane,  up  a  laborious  ascent.  On  gaining  the  summit,  a  most 
enchanting  view  over  the  vale  of  the  Towy  repays  the  toil  attending  the 
ascent.  A  strip  of  the  richest  land,  intersected  by  numerous  hedgerows 
and  ornamental  plantations,  arises  on  each  side  of  the  river ;  above  which 
extends  a  parallel  range  of  high-wooded  and  cultivated  hills,  which  form  the 
boundary  of  the  valley.  The  town  of  Carmarthen,  the  lofty  spire  of  the 
church,  the  ruined  castle,  and  the  long  old  bridge  with  several  barks  lying 
near  it,  are  conspicuous  objects  at  a  short  distance ;  the  picture  is  consider¬ 
ably  enlivened  by  several  gentlemen’s  seats,  with  their  appendant  decorations. 
The  town  of  Abergwili  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  with  the  Bishop  of  St, 
David's  palace,  appear  in  the  distance ;  and  soon  after  a  sudden  turn  of  the 
lane,  the  ruin  of  Llanstephan. 

On  the  road  to  Llandeilo-fawr,  the  first  object  of  notice  is  Abergwili 
Palace,  the  only  habitable  residence  of  the  seven  which  formerly  belonged 
to  the  Bishop  of  St.  David.  This  noble  mansion  has  a  handsome  Ehza- 
bethan  aspect ;  the  grounds  are  highly  ornamented  ;  and  the  prospects  receive 
a  considerable  addition  from  the  river  Towy.  This  beautiful  stream,  after 
washing  the  extremity  of  the  town,  returns  for  a  considerable  distance  up 
the  vale  previous  to  its  resuming  its  course  towards  the  sea.  This  structure 
was  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  present  bishop,  and  is  now  one  of  the  most 
complete  episcopal  palaces  in  the  kingdom.  It  was  at  Abergwili  where  the 


CARMARTHEN. 


141 


brave  but  unfortunate  Llywelyn  subdued  his  rebellious  subjects_,  headed 
by  Rhun,  a  Scotsman ;  he  lived  a  short  time  only  to  enjoy  the  tran¬ 
quillity  his  courage  had  restored,  and  was  assassinated  by  the  descendants 
of  Howel  Dim,  who  had  been  deprived  of  their  succession  to  the  throne  of 
South  Wales.  Llangynnor  Hill  forms  a  striking  object  from  this  spot.  About 
Allt-y-  Gog,  the  range  of  hills  on  the  1.  rises  to  greater  height,  mostly  clothed 
with  woods.  On  the  1.  of  Cross  Inn  is  Cwrt  Henry,  erected  by  Henry  ap 
Gwilym.  Here  is  Grongaer  Hill,  the  spot  to  which  the  poet  Dyer  has  given 
so  just  a  celebrity.  Nearly  opposite  Rhiw-yr-Adar,  is  Golden  Grove,  Earl 
Cawdor,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Towy,  which  does  not  answer,  by  any 
means,  to  the  splendour  of  its  name.  Dynevor  Castle  is  a  grand  object  from 
this  place.  It  is  seated  upon  a  lofty  hill  clothed  with  venerable  oaks,  once 
the  regal  seat  of  the  ancient  Cambrian  monarchs.  The  last  prince  who  in¬ 
habited  was  Rhys  ap  Tew  Dwr  Mawr,  an  ancestor  of  its  possessor  George 
Talbot  Rice,  Baron  Dynevor.  It  was  besieged  by  the  forces  of  Henry  I.  in  the 
year  1226,  which  were  defeated,  with  the  loss  of  2000  men,  by  Llywelyn, 
prince  of  North  Wales.  This  monument  of  ancient  splendour  stands  at  the  s.w. 
boundary  of  a  spacious  park,  adorned  with  plantations  and  diversified  with 
swelling  hills.  Mr.  Gilpin  has  given  three  views  of  it.  Sir  R.  Hoare  thinks 
the  best  picture  may  be  had  from  the  meadows  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Towy,  which  includes  the  hill,  castle,  and  river.  Newton  Park  is  a  highly 
finished  place,  and  the  views  of  the  vale  are  extensive  and  picturesque.  Mr. 
Lipscomb  rung  at  an  ancient  gate,  and  was  admitted  to  see  the  grounds. 
Passed  a  stately  range  of  oaks,  and  enjoyed  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  valley 
to  the  N.  Then  descended  through  a  rich  grove  which  flanks  the  mansion, 
which  is  a  square  building,  stuccoed  entirely  over,  a  small  turret  projecting 
at  each  corner,  covered  with  a  kind  of  dome.  The  whole  is  embattled,  hav¬ 
ing  sash  windows  and  a  low  doorway.  The  undulations  of  these  grounds 
are  remarkably  beautiful.  A  medicinal  spring  has  lately  been  discovered  in 
the  park.  The  water  has  been  analysed  by  Mr.  Accum,  who  found  the 
gaseous  contents  in  100  parts  to  be 


Cub.  Inch. 

Carbonic  acid  gas  - 

-  16-50 

Atmospheric  air 

-  4-50 

in  100  parts  are. 

Carbonate  of  iron  - 

Grains. 

-  5-25 

Muriate  of  soda 

-  6-00 

Carbonate  of  lime  - 

-  4-75 

Muriate  of  lime 

-  3-25 

Sulphate  of  lime 

-  2-00 

In  pursuing  the  above  route,  Mr.  Skrine  made  a  digression  from  Abergwili 
across  the  Towy  to  visit  Middleton  Hall,  unoccupied,  which  far  eclipses  the 
proudest  of  the  Cambrian  mansions  in  Asiatic  pomp  and  splendour.  This 
structure  deserves  admiration  for  its  external  beauty,  as  well  as  for  its  in¬ 
ternal  elegance  and  decoration ;  yet  our  tourist  thinks  the  style  of  its  archi¬ 
tecture  but  ill  comports  with  the  imposing,  though  simple,  majesty  of  the 
surrounding  country.  Resuming  the  course  before  described  along  the 
Towy,  a  prospect  of  unrivalled  beauty  and  picturesque  effect  was  soon  un¬ 
veiled.  A  vast  amphitheatre  of  wild  mountains  form  the  head  of  the  vale. 

On  the  road  to  Llandeilo-fawr  once  stood  the  venerable  remains  of 
Green  Castle,  built  by  Uchtred,  prince  of  Merionethshire,  in  1138  ;  but  now 
reduced  to  a  few  unimportant  walls.  About  half  way  the  ruins  of  Castell 


142 


CARMARTHEN. 


jyi'yslwyn  occupy  a  bold  conic  hill  in  the  vale  of  Towy.  Both  these  frag¬ 
ments  of  antiquity  are  within  view  from  the  road. 

At  the  7th  mile  on  the  road  to  Swansea  may  be  seen  the  blue  waves 
of  the  ocean,  and  at  the  distance  of  12  m.  occurs  the  small  village  of 
Llannon.  The  character  of  the  country  through  this  district  is  pleasing, 
but  not  grand,  varied  by  swelling  hills  and  extensive  valleys.  Within  two 
miles  of  Swansea,  however,  the  scenery  increases  in  magnificence. 

A  brisk  posting  business  in  summer,  on  the  road  to  Narberth,  supports 
a  good  inn  at  the  village  of  St.  Clare,  distant  9  wi*  Horn  Carmarthen,  a  long 
straggling  village,  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  rivers  Afon  Gynin  and 
Dewi-fawr  with  the  Taff.  Upon  the  banks  of  the  former  stood  the  castle,  of 
which  not  a  stone  is  left :  an  artificial  tumulus,  upon  which  the  citadel  was 
placed,  marks  its  ancient  site.  Mr.  Donovan  found  a  ramble  of  a  mile  or 
two  upon  the  banks  of  the  Gynin  very  delightful ;  and  was  much  amused 
by  seeing  some  poor  people  engaged  in  fishing  out  of  that  slimy  bark  called 
a  coracle,  or  gorwg,  in  the  language  of  the  Southwallians.  It  is  of  an  oval 
form,  made  of  split  rods,  or  twigs  interwoven,  covered  with  leather,  or  horses* 
hide,  pitched  flannel  or  canvass,  and  so  light  as  to  be  easily  carried  on  the 
shoulder.  Hence  the  Welsh  adage,  Llwyth  gwr  ei  gorwg,”  i.  e.  a  man’s 
load  is  his  coracle.  The  green  bridge  of  Wales  is  an  object  not  unworthy 
the  notice  of  the  traveller.  Passing  St.  Clare’s  over  the  bridge,  on  the  1.  is 
a  road  leading  to  Llaugharne,  a  neat  and  sequestered  village,  3  m.  Turning 
to  the  r.  2  m.  reach  the  green  bridge.  The  only  circumstance  for  which  it 
is  remarkable  arises  from  the  waters  of  a  small  stream  which  takes  its  rise 
to  the  N.,  quits  its  course  above  ground  at  this  place,  and  finds  a  passage 
through  a  subterraneous  rocky  avenue,  whence  it  does  not  emerge  till  in  one 
collected  stream  upon  the  sea-coast  below  the  village  of  Pendine.  The  tra¬ 
veller  who  wishes  to  take  the  borders  of  the  coast,  on  his  way  to  Tenby, 
must  pursue  this  route,  which  is  considerably  shorter  than  the  turnpike-road, 
but  it  is  impassable  for  carriages. 

The  particulars  of  the  highway  path  to  Narberth  are  to  Stony  Bridge, 
over  the  river,  1  m.  Sf. ;  to  Tafernplwcneth,  2  m.  {Wernault  House, 

- - -Williams, Esq.,  on  the  r.) ;  to  Pwl-y-grafel,  3  m.5f.  Inn,  White-Hart  ; 

at  I  I  m.  cross  the  Ahercwm  river,  and  at  ^  m.  further,  the  Cliveham,  which 
runs  on  the  1.  into  the  Taff ;  to  Llanfihangel -Ahercwm,  3  f. ;  cross  the 
Abercwm,  the  course  of  which  is  into  the  sea  on  the  1.  To  St.  Clare  s,  5  m.; 
cross  the  Taff.  (On  the  r.  to  Haverfordwest,  through  Whitland,  21  m. 
To  Llanddwror,  To  Tavernspite,  5x0. ;  Inn,  the  Feathers.  Coldhlow, 

3  m.)  (On  the  1.  to  Pembroke,  9  Narberth,  1  m.  6  f.  If,  on  his 
road  to  Narberth,  the  traveller’s  curiosity  should  lead  him  to  exj)lore  the 
cloistered  recesses  of  the  Cistercian  monks  of  Alba-domus,  he  must  diverge  a 
little  to  the  r,,  into  the  well- wooded  vale  of  Whitland.  A  turnpike-road  runs 
w.  from  St.  Clare’s  through  IThitland  to  Llaugharne,  9  ni. 

To  Tenbv,  pursue  the  above  recited  route  to  Coldhlow,  20^  m.,  Templeton, 
1  m.,  Begelly,  2^m.,  Tenby,  4|  m. 

To  Laugharne,  pass  to  Stony  Bridge,  I  m.  3  f.  Pwll-y-Grafel  (inn, 
W.  Hart),  5  m.  5  f.  St.  Clare’s,  2^m.  Cross  the  Taff  river  (on  the  r. 
through  Whitland  to  Narberth,  12  ^  m. ;  Haverfordwest,  21 ;  Milford-ha- 
ven,  30^ ;  and  Pembroke,  27  m.).  To  Laugharne,  3  m. 

To  Lampeter,  take  the  Llandeilo-fawr  road  for  about  2  m.,  leaving 
Abergwili  on  the  r.,  turn  to  the  1. ;  cross  the  Gwili  river  to  Rhyd-y-caie. 
Inn,  Royal  Oak,  5  m.  5  f.,  where  is  Castel  Biggin,  and  on  the  1.  Cwm 
Gwili,  and  beyond  Cwm  Dwyfrain.  At  the  former  place,  a  salmon  weigh¬ 
ing  seventeen  pounds  was  recently  caught,  with  common  trout  tackle,  by 


CARMARTHEN. 


143 


Geo.  Wood,  Esq.,  of  Abergwili,  after  a  struggle  of  an  hour  and  a  half. 
Llangwili,  3|m.  Cross  the  Corrwy  river;  on  the  r.  see  Ystrad  Corrwg ; 
cross  the  Gwili  river^  at  Pont-ar-Saisse,  to  Llangarish,  thence  to  Brechfa, 
and  Gwingrig,  2  m.  7  f-  New  Inn,  1  m.  Troadgrhw  turnpike,  m.  (on 
the  r.  is  Porth-y-Berllan  House.  3^  m.  beyond  is  Mighmead  House,  Mrs. 
Evans.)  Llanyhyddair,  5  ra.  1  f.  (Hence  is  a  shorter  by-road  to  Lam¬ 
peter,  taking  the  Teifi  on  the  1.,  and  passing  Pencarreg  on  the  r.)  On  the 
highway,  cross  the  Teifi,  pass  Llan-faughan  to  Llanwnnen,  Rev.  — —  Mor¬ 
gan,  2m.  3  f .  (On  the  1.  to  Cardigan,  26  ra.)  Cross  the  Grannel  to 
Lamputeb,  2  m.  7  f* 

From  Carmarthen  Sir  R.  Hoare  recommends  an  excursion  to  Llan- 
DEiLo,  to  visit  the  royal  palace  at  Dynevor,  and  the  British  fortress  of  Ca7'eg 
Cennen.  In  this  journey  we  must  follow  the  northern  banks  of  the  Towy 
to  Llandeilo,  and  return  to  Carmarthen  by  the  s.  The  traveller  who  wishes 
to  see  this  fine  vale  to  advantage  must  observe  these  directions  :  he  will  pass 
by  Golden  Grove,  lately  the  seat  of  Mr.  Vaughan,  but  now  belonging  to  Earl 
Cawdor,  a  spot  commanding  every  requisite  beauty  in  point  of  situation. 
The  higher  grounds  in  the  park  comprehend,  in  one  point  of  view,  an 
unrivalled  assemblage  of  the  most  beautiful  and  classic  scenery.  In  the 
front  stands  Grongaer  Hill ;  to  the  r.  are  the  luxuriant  woods  of  the  Pm'k, 
overtopped  by  the  proud  ruins  of  Dynevor ;  and  to  the  1.  the  bold  fortress 
of  Drusslyn  rears  its  insulated  head  in  the  narrowest  part  of  one  of  the  most 
luxuriant  vales  in  Europe.  He  will  then  mount  the  summit  of  a  hill,  very 
appropriately  called  Golwg-y-byd,  ‘  the  sight  of  the  world;’  whence  he  will  en¬ 
joy  a  most  comprehensive  view  of  the  beautiful  vale  of  Towy  on  one  side,  and 
of  a  most  extensive  tract  of  country  on  the  other,  in  which  the  rugged  emi¬ 
nence  of  Careg  Cennen  forms  a  very  conspicuous  feature :  on  descending 
the  hill,  he  will  find  the  view  towards  Dynevor  highly  pleasing.  The  next 
object  of  attraction  will  be  Drusslyn  Castle.  Its  situation  is  singularly  bold, 
and  its  summit  commands  a  most  advantageous  view  of  the  vale  of  Towy, 
which,  in  the  opinion  of  many,  stands  unequalled  in  S.  Wales,  though  it  has 
a  most  powerful  rival  in  the  vale  of  Usk.  Having  surveyed,  in  two  differ¬ 
ent  points,  the  most  beautiful  part  of  this  valley,  the  traveller  may  proceed 
on  his  journey.” 

In  passing  from  Carmarthen  to  Lampeter  is  a  Sa7'n  Helen.  The 
word  Helen  is  a  corruption  from  Lleon.  This  appended  to  Sarn,  signifies 

The  Road  of  the  Legion.”  It  is  certainly  of  Roman  construction,  about 
30  feet  in  breadth;  the  sides  are  of  stone,  and  the  centre  filled  up  with 
gravel.  At  Perthy-berllan,  near  New  Inn,  it  is  very  visible,  running  in  a 
N.E.  direction  between  this  and  the  parish  of  Llanllwny,  and  thence  towards 
Llanybydder.  It  does  not  cross  the  river,  but  continuing  on  the  Carmar¬ 
thenshire  side,  goes  through  the  parish  of  Pencarreg.  It  then  crosses  a  ford 
near  Lampeter.  Hence  it  advances  to  Llanio,  or  Loventium,  and  takes  a 
northerly  direction  through  the  parishes  of  Llanbadern  Odyn,  Tregaron, 
and  by  Tau-hirion,  Rhos,  Gorsvawr;  over  Lledrod  Hill,  Rhydlwyd,  and 
Cwmllechwedd  Common.  It  is  afterwards  visible  at  a  farm  called  Brennau, 
in  the  parish  of  Llanfihangel  y  Creuddyn,  and  again  at  another  farm  called 
Llwynrhingyll ;  thence  it  proceeds  to  Penallt,  near  Machynlleth,  and  con¬ 
tinues  its  course  in  N.  Wales.  There  are  several  tumuli  in  the  vale  of 
Teifi,  erected  by  the  Romans  for  sheltering  their  cattle.  Tommen-Llanio 
might  have  been  one  of  these.  This  tumulus  is  moated. 

Angling  Stations.  —  BreeJifa,  11m.  Higher  up  in  the  mountains  is  a 
small  stream  full  of  very  delicate  trout,  which  rise  eagerly  at  any  of  the 
lesser  artificial  flies.  Fish  the  Cotty,  where  these  two  brooks  fall  into  it. 


144 


CAERNARVON. 


Here  are  always  trout  and  salmon  on  the  feed.  Glyn,  12  m.,  on  a  branch  of 
the  Gwendraeth  Vach.  Icolld,  6  m.  Here  is  a  salmon  weir  on  the  Towy. 
Kilay,  7  on  the  Gwendraeth  Vach.  Llandyhie,  5^  m.^  on  the  Lloughor. 
Mydrim,  8  m. ;  confluence  of  the  Avon  and  Teifi  Vawr.  Conml,  6^  m.^ 
on  the  Rala  and  Gwilli.  Llanfihangel  Arath,  12  m._,  on  the  Teifi  ;  a  beau¬ 
tiful  station.  Llangathen,  11  m.^  on  the  Towy. 


To  Kidwelly,  9  miles.  Malkin. 

Llandeilo  Vawr,  15  miles.  Malkin;  Skrine  ; 
Lipscomb. 

Llandeilo  Vawr,  and  back  to  Carmarthen, 
thence  to  Llaugharne,  Donovan. 
Llaugharne,  12^  miles.  Evans. 

Swansea,  26^  miles.  Warner. 


To  Llanstephan,  7  miles.  Wyndham;  Barber. 
Tenby,  28  miles. 

Narberth,  22  miles. 

Haverfordwest,  31  miles. 

Lampeter,  23  miles. 

Pembroke,  through  Narberth,  33^  miles. 


CAERNARVON. 


From  Crickaeth,  27  miles.  Pennant. 

Bangor,  9  miles.  Bingley  ;  Hutton. 
Festiniog,  25  miles.  Bingley. 

Llanberis,  10  miles.  Aikin  ;  Pugh  ;  War 
ner;  Gilpin. 


From  Beaumaris,  13  miles,  Skrine  ;  Hutton.’ 
Beddgelert,  13  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Evans. 
Amlwch,  31  miles.  Warner’s  2d  Walk. 
Tan-y-Bwlch,  23  miles.  Hutton. 

Back,  from  an  excursion  into  Snowdonia.  Evans. 


CAERNARVON^  the  Segontium  of  the  Itinerary  of  Antoninus,  was  the 
only  station  the  Romans  possessed  in  this  part  of  Cambria ;  some  outposts_, 
and  fragments  of  their  roads  still  mark  the  extent  of  the  imperial  eagle. 
The  site  of  the  ancient  city  lies  about  4  s.  of  the  present  town^  inter¬ 
sected  by  the  turnpike-road.  It  is  an  oblong  square_,  including  a  space  of 
about  7  acres,  upon  a  small  elevated  summit.  Some  fragments  of  the  walls 
still  remain,  and  in  one  part  was  lately  discovered  a  portion  of  building, 
constructed  with  tiles,  plastered  over  with  a  smooth,  hard  cement,  sup¬ 
posed  to  have  been  an  hypocaust.  Near  the  Seiont  was  a  strong /orC  in¬ 
tended  to  secure  a  landing-place  at  the  time  of  high-water.  This  was  of 
an  oblong  shape,  included  in  an  area  of  about  1  acre.  Two  sides  of  the 
walls  are  nearly  entire.  One  is  74  yards  long,  the  other  64,  from  11  to 
12  ft.  high,  and  6  ft.  thick.  Most  of  the  stone  facings  having  been  re¬ 
moved,  the  peculiarity  of  the  Roman  method  of  building  is  apparent. 
Along  the  walls,  passing  through  the  entire  thickness,  in  parallel  lines,  run 
three  rows  of  circular  holes,  about  8  in.  in  diameter.  Similar  perforations 
are  discoverable  at  the  ends  of  the  walls  extending  lengthwise.  Much  con¬ 
jectural  learning  has  been  displayed  in  endeavouring  to  ascertain  the  original 
design  and  use  of  these  apertures.  There  appears  to  have  been  one  circular 
bastion  tower  at  each  angle.  It  is  evident  that  this  place  was  connected 
with  Constantine.  A  stone  was  found  in  a  subterranean  vault,  inscribed 
“  S.  V.  C.,”  and  a  gold  coin  among  the  ruins,  inscribed  “  t.  divi  aug.  fil. 
AUGUSTUS.”  In  Vrelsh,  this  town  is  called  Caer-Custenni,  the  city  of 
Constantius.”  In  a  field  s.  e.  of  the  camp.  Sir  Richard  Colt  Hoare  dis¬ 
covered  several  pieces  of  fine  glazed  Roman  pottery.  On  digging  the 
foundations  of  Cefn-Hendre,  on  part  of  the  site,  in  1827,  several  Roman 
coins,  and  valuable  relics,  were  discovered.  A  thin  piece  of  gold  was 
found  by  the  Rev.  T.  Trevor,  of  that  place,  4  in.  long,  and  1  in.  broad, 
inscribed  with  mystic  characters,  principally  Greek  of  the  second  century. 
The  names  and  epithets  show  it  to  be  a  Basilidian  talisman.  A  well  by 
the  fort  retains  the  name  of  Helen,  so  named  from  the  daughter  of  Octavius, 
duke  of  Cornwall,  and  wife  of  Maximus,  first  cousin  of  Constantine,  who 
was  born  at  Segontium.  This  fortress  was  long  the  residence  of  the 
British  princes  ;  Cadwallo,  the  son  of  Cadfan,  appears  to  have  first  fixed 
the  court  at  this  place.  The  etymology  of  Caernarvon  is  derived  from 


CAERNARVON* 


145 


caer,  a  fortress  j  yn,  in^  and  arvon^  sea-girt ; whence  Arvon_,  the  district 
opposite  to  Mon,  and  was  probably  the  British  town  that  subsisted  under  the 
Romans.  Caernarvon  is  the  capital  of  a  county  which  forms  the  most  rugged 
and  truly  alpine  district  in  Wales.  The  central  portion  is  entirely  occupied 
by  Snowdon,  and  the  concomitant  range,  extending  from  near  Conwy,  n.e. 
to  the  shore  that  bounds  Perthorian  road,  including  the  Rheifl  ridge. 
Amidst  these  eminences  occur  very  deep  passes,  forming  narrow  valleys, 
through  which  numerous  streams,  issuing  from  various  lakes,  rush  in  some 
localities  with  impetuous  violence  over  their  rugged  beds.  The  woods 
which  once  clothed  this  region  are  no  more.  Cattle,  sheep,  and  some  goats 
form  the  brief  inventory  of  its  rural  wealth.  The  vales  produce  some 
meadow-grass,  which  is  collected  with  a  kind  of  sledge,  the  uneven  surface 
of  the  ground  not  allowing  wheeL carriages.  The  vegetation  of  these  regions 
in  the  variety  of  plants  of  which  it  is  composed,  presents  a  rich  field  for  the 
botanist.  It  peculiarly  abounds  with  that  species  of  herbaceous  plants 
called  by  Linnuaes  etheriw,  as  being  found  only  towards  the  summits  of 
mountains.  Numerous  other  genera  display  their  beauties  in  these  ele¬ 
vated  wilds,  of  which  many  are  rarely  found  elsewhere.  The  inhabitants 
live  in  a  state  of  primeval  simplicity,  manufacturing  their  garments  from 
their  own  flocks.  A  little  oatmeal  added  to  the  produce  of  their  dairies,  con¬ 
stitutes  their  general  diet.  They  are  also  remarkable  for  their  longevity,  which 
is  attributable  to  the  frugality  of  their  fare,  and  the  bracing  effects  of  a  cold, 
sharp,  oxygenated  atmosphere.  The  prospects  around  are  rude  and  savage  in 
the  highest  degree,  but  contain  also  a  considerable  mixture  of  the  beautiful. 
Many  rare  plants  occur  in  this  county.  Copper  mines  have  been  wrought  in 
various  parts  of  these  mountains,  and  other  places  in  the  county  afford 
lead  and  stone  quarries.  The  vale  of  Conwy  is  a  tract  equally  romantic  ; 
rich  pasturage,  corn-fields  and  groves  form  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  region 
of  Snowdon  which  frowns  over  it.  The  patriotic  exploits  of  the  ancient  inha¬ 
bitants  of  this  county  have  rendered  its  early  history  peculiarly  interesting. 
Quantities  of  fish  are  caught  round  the  shore,  and  lobsters  abound  in  it. 
The  numerous  herds  of  goats  which  frequented  the  rocky  districts  of  this 
county  are  now  nearly  extinct,  being  found  detrimental  to  modern  improve¬ 
ments  in  planting,  and  to  the  bark  and  leading  branches  of  young  trees.  In 
1831,  the  population  of  Caernarvonshire  amounted  to  65,753.  It  is  in  the 
diocese  of  Bangor,  and  province  of  Canterbury. 

In  some  years  thewinter’s  snow  remains  on  thehigher  summits  of  Snowdon 
until  the  month  of  June,  though  in  the  more  immediate  vicinity  of  the  sea, 
particularly  in  the  vicinity  of  Llyn  it  rarely  continues  long  upon  the  ground 
even  in  the  depth  of  winter.  Having  noticed  the  county,  the  town  of  Caer¬ 
narvon  forms  our  next  consideration.  Giraldus  Cambrensis  mentions  passing- 
through  it  in  the  year  1188,  and  Hugh  Earl  of  Chester,  erected  a  fortress 
there,  denominated  Hen  Caer  Custenni.  Llywelyn  the  Great  also  dates  a 
charter,  granted  to  the  the  priory  of  Penmon  from  it,  in  the  year  1221. 
The  erection  of  Caernarvon  Castle  forms  an  era  in  the  history  of  this  part 
of  the  country.  After  the  completion  of  his  Conquest,  Edward  I.,  in  1282, 
undertook  this  great  work.  The  first  individual  who  received  the  high 
responsibility  of  this  place,  was  John  de  Havering.  In  1284,  Sir  Roger 
de  Puleston  was  probably  constable,  who,  in  1284,  was  appointed  sheriff, 
and  keeper  of  Anglesea,  and  resided  at  the  mansion  called  Plas  Puleston. 
In  1294,  a  tax  was  imposed  upon  the  \Telsh,  when  they  seized  Sir  Roger, 
and  caused  him  to  be  hanged.  Afterwards,  the  insurgents,  under  their 
leader  Madog,  an  illegitimate  son  of  the  unfortunate  prince  Llywelyn,  at¬ 
tacked  Caernarvon,  massacred  all  the  English  inhabitants  in  cold  blood,  and 

li 


146 


CAERNARVON. 


set  fire  to  the  place.  It  was  not  repossessed  till  the  king_,  in  person,  com¬ 
manded  his  army.  In  1402,  the  town  was  blockaded  by  Owain  Glyndwr, 
and  was  defended  for  Henry  by  Jevan  ap  Meredydd,  who  died  during  the 
siege.  In  the  times  of  the  civil  wars,  Caernarvon  was  seized,  in  behalf  of 
the  parliament,  by  Captain  Swanley,  in  l644.  In  1646  it  was  repossessed 
by  Generals  Mytton  and  Langhorn.  In  1648  My tton  was  in  turn  besieged 
by  Sir  John  Owen,  but  hearing  that  Colonels  Carter  and  Twisselton  were 
advancing,  he  raised  the  siege,  and  marched  to  meet  the  rebels.  Near 
Llandegaia,  furious  encounter  ensued,  in  which  Sir  John  was  defeated,  and 
made  prisoner.  Capt.  Taylor,  who  personally  contended  with  Sir  John, 
received  200/.  reward  out  of  his  estates.  The  latter  was  brought  to  trial, 
with  four  noblemen,  and  all  were  doomed  to  decapitation.  At  the  close  of 
the  trial.  Sir  John  made  a  low  bow  to  the  court,  and  returned  his  humble 
thanks.  A  bystander  asked  him  what  he  could  mean  by  thanking  them 
for  ordering  his  head  to  be  cut  off.  Mean,”  answered  Sir  John,  why, 
is  it  not  a  great  honour  for  a  poor  gentleman  to  lose  his  head  in  the  com¬ 
pany  of  such  noble  lords }  I  was  afraid  they  intended  to  hang  me.” 
Many  were  the  advocates  who  came  forward  in  favour  of  the  Duke  of 
Hamilton,  Earl  Holland,  and  Lords  Goring  and  Capel ;  but  no  one  uttering 
a  word  in  favour  of  poor  Sir  John,  Ireton  became  his  advocate,  and  suc¬ 
ceeded.  Sir  John  retired  to  his  estate  in  this  county,  and  was  buried  in 
Penmorfa  church,  where  a  monument  appears  to  his  memory.  After 
these  events,  the  whole  of  N.  Wales  submitted  to  the  parliamentary 
authority.  Formerly  the  Castle  was  held  by  the  Wynnes  of  Glynllifon  and 
Gwydir ;  by  the  Bulkeleys,  of  Baron  Hill,  the  Mostyns  of  Gloddaeth, 
and  now  by  the  Marquess  of  Anglesea.  The  external  walls  are  nearly 
entire.  The  Castle  occupies  a  large  space  of  the  w.  end  of  the  town. 
On  two  sides  it  was  environed  by  water,  and  upon  the  margin  was  an  em¬ 
battled  terrace.  The  third  side  was  evidently  defended  by  a  foss,  which 
probably  extended  round  the  fourth.  The  walls  are  from  8  to  10  ft.  thick, 
and  have,  within  their  thickness,  a  narrow  gallery,  with  convenient  oeillets, 
or  slips,  for  the  discharge  of  arrows  at  the  assailants.  Above  the  embattled 
parapet,  ascend  in  majestic  grandeur  numerous  turreted  toyvers,  pentagonal, 
hexagonal,  and  octagonal.  Upon  the  s.  side,  next  the  river  Seiont,  are 
hexagonal  and  octagonal  towers,  with  three  others  to  the  n.  Two  are 
more  lofty  than  the  rest.  The  Eagle  Tower,  so  called  from  a  figure  of  that 
bird,  carved  in  stone,  has  the  addition  of  three  elegant  turrets  issuing  from 
the  top,  and  is  remarkably  beautiful.  This  figure  is  said  to  have  been 
brought  by  Edward’s  orders  from  one  of  the  towers  of  Segontium ;  but 
about  the  year  1812  it  was  maliciously  thrown  over  the  parapet  to  the 
bottom,  notwithstanding  a  strong  iron  rod  passed  through  the  different 
stones  which  composed  it. 

The  principal  entrance  on  the  e.  is  peculiarly  grand  :  beneath  a  massive 
tower  on  the  front,  is  the  statue  of  Edward,  in  a  menacing  posture,  with  a 
sword  half  drawn  in  his  hand.  The  remaining  grooves  in  this  gateway 
indicate  that  it  was  defended  by  four  portcullises.  The  Queen's  Gate, 
through  which  Eleanor,  the  duteous  and  affectionate  wife  of  the  Conqueror 
entered,  is  considerably  above  the  level  of  the  present  ground,  and  was 
probably  passable  only  over  the  moat  by  a  drawbridge.  In  the  n.  e. 
corner  is  a  deep  well,  now  nearly  filled  up,  having  a  round  tower  contiguous 
formerly  a  dungeon.  Such  is  the  external  delineation  of  Caernarvon  Castle, 
founded  upon  a  rock,  and  almost  entire.  The  area  within  is  irregularly 
oblong,  formerly  divided  into  two  parts,  forming  an  outer  and  inner  court. 
The  external  parts  are  more  perfect  than  the  apartments  within,  which  are 


CAERNARVON. 


147 

mere  skeletons.  The  state  rooms  have  been  fitted  up  with  spacious  windows, 
and  elegant  tracery.  These,  externally,  present  a  square  front,  but  inter¬ 
nally  are  all  polygonal.  A  gallery,  or  covered  way,  appears  to  have  ex¬ 
tended  round  the  interior  of  the  Castle  ;  of  this  about  70  yards  is  entire. 
The  only  remaining  staircase  is  up  the  Eagle  Tower,  from  the  summit  of 
which  is  an  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  the  isle  of 
Anglesea.  The  three  beautiful,  and  hence  uniform  conic  summits,  of  the  Reifl 
ridge,  in  the  promontory  of  Llyn,  close  the  vast  and  varied  scene.  The 
Rivals,  as  they  are  frequently  called,  is  a  word,  the  mere  echo  of  the 
British  T  eifl,  but  of  very  different  signification.  These  hills  are  also 
called  Cam  Madryn,  and  Cam  Boduon.  Edward  II.  is  said  to  have  been 
born  in  a  little  dark  room  in  this  tower,  which  has  a  fireplace  in  it ;  but 
the  adjoining  central  spacious  apartment  on  the  same  floor  others  have 
thought  more  likely  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the  royal  accouchement. 
From  a  heap  of  rubbish,  near  the  end  of  the  court,  an  echo  returns  all  that 
is  offered  to  it ;  not,  indeed,  with  any  addition,  like  that  of  the  Irishman’s 
at  Killarney,  which,  when  you  say  How  do  you  do,  Paddy  Blake  } 
answers,  Arrah,  my  honey,  and  pretty  well,  I  thank  you.”  Edward  had 
annexed  the  Principality  of  Wales  to  the  kingdom  of  England,  but  the 
Welsh  were  far  from  being  satisfied  with  this  usurpation,  still  being  deter¬ 
mined  to  yield  no  obedience  to  any  prince  but  of  their  own  nation  and 
language.  Edward  thought  of  an  expedient  for  cozening  them.  He 
ordered  Eleanor,  in  the  depth  of  winter,  out  of  England  to  Caernarvon 
Castle,  there  to  await  her  confinement,  after  which  Edward  summoned  all 
the  barons  and  chief  persons  throughout  Wales,  to  meet  him  at  Rhyddlan, 
to  consult  about  the  welfare  of  their  country.  He  reminded  the  Welsh 
nobility  that  they  had  often  wished  for  a  prince  of  their  own  country. 
They  promised  to  allow  of  such  an  appointment,  and  to  obey  such  a  person¬ 
age.  Edward  then  mentioned  his  own  son,  Edward,  maintaining  the  terms 
of  the  engagement  to  have  been  strictly  complied  with ;  for  his  son  was 
born  in  W ales,  could  speak  no  English,  and  his  character  irreproachable  ! 
Though  born  April  25.  1284,  it  was  not  before  he  had  reached  his  l6th 
year,  that  Prince  Edward  received  the  reluctant  fealty  of  his  deluded  sub¬ 
jects  ;  for,  in  the  year  1293,  an  armed  force,  headed  by  Madog,  related  to 
Prince  Llywelyn,  suddenly  attacked  the  English,  who  were  holding  here  a 
fair,  and,  after  massacring  the  people,  took  possession  of  the  Castle,  and 
plundered  the  town.  Edward  then  entered  Wales  in  person,  and  suppressed 
the  rebellion.  He,  moreover,  as  a  precautionary  measure,  erected  a  large 
fortress  at  Beaumaris.  {Towel,  279-)  The  eldest  sons  of  the  English 
monarchs  have  subsequently  been  styled  prince  of  Wales,  and,  indepen¬ 
dently  of  birth,  been  created  so  by  letters  patent.  In  the  reign  of  Charles 
II.,  it  was  taken  by  the  parliamentary  forces,  under  Captain  Swanley, 
together  with  400  prisoners.  The  royalists  soon  regained  possession,  but 
surrendered  to  General  Mytton  in  l646‘.  In  l648,  the  royalists,  under 
Sir  John  Owen,  attempted  to  recover  it,  but  hearing  that  troops  were  ad¬ 
vancing  to  relieve  the  place,  they  left  the  siege  to  give  them  battle,  and 
were  defeated.  Soon  after  this  event,  the  whole  of  N.  Wales  submitted  to 
the  parliament. 

Caernarvon  was  distinguished  by  the  first  royal  charter  granted  to  W ales, 
in  which  it  was  constituted  a  free  borough,  to  be  governed  by  a  mayor,  one 
alderman,  two  bailiffs,  a  town  clerk,  and  two  sergeants  at  mace.  The  repre¬ 
sentative  of  the  place  is  elected  by  its  burgesses,  and  those  of  Nefyn,  Cruccaith, 
Aberconwy,  and  Pwllheli  and  Bangor.  Caernarvon  may  justly  be  considered 
the  first  and  most  beautiful  town  in  N.  Wales.  Its  contiguity  to  Snowdonia 

L  2 


148 


CAERNARVON. 


and  the  Isle  of  Anglesea  are  considerations  to  an  investigating  resident.  Its 
situation  is  partly  on  the  Menai^  and  partly  on  the  estuary  of  the  Seiont. 
The  town  is  surrounded  by  a  massive  Wall  of  great  height  and  thickness, 
flanked  and  defended  at  short  intervals  by  numerous  semicircular  bastion 
towers.  A  road  ranged  entirely  round  the  inside  of  the  embattled  parapet, 
and  two  gates  formed  the  entrance  into  the  town ;  the  e.  facing  the  moun¬ 
tains,  and  the  w.  opening  to  the  Menai.  A  spacious  terrace,  extending  from 
the  quay  to  the  n.  end  of  the  town  walls,  forms  a  most  charming  Walk,  the 
fashionable  promenade,  in  fine  weather,  for  all  descriptions  of  people,  who, 
while  they  inhale  the  salubrious  breeze,  may  be  agreeably  amused  by  the 
moving  varieties  of  the  port.  Several  respectable  lodging-houses  have  been 
erected  for  the  reception  of  the  increasing  number  of  visitors.  The  purity 
of  the  air,  the  conveniences  for  sea  bathing,  and  the  attractive  scenery  in 
the  neighbourhood,  have  made  this  town  the  permanent  residence  of  nume¬ 
rous  respectable  families.  The  Chapel,  which  is  subordinate  to  Llanbeblig, 
exhibits  no  display  of  beauty.  It  is  small  for  the  population ;  and  was 
probably  intended  only  for  the  use  of  the  garrison.  An  enlarged  new  struc¬ 
ture  has  been  in  contemplation.  There  are  places  of  wmrship  for  Baptists, 
independents,  and  Calvinistic  and  Wesleyan  Methodists.  National  Schools 
were  erected  here,  in  1820,  for  the  instruction  of  boys  and  girls.  The 
scholars,  amounting  to  upwards  of  400,  pass  their  examinations  with  great 
credit;  whose  attainments  refiect  the  highest  credit  also  upon  the  teachers. 
The  County  Hall  stands  nearly  opposite  the  grand  entrance  to  the  Castle. 
It  appears  mean  without,  but  is  neat  and  commodious  within.  The  County 
Prison,  situated  near  the  former,  in  Newgate  Street,  is  a  neat,  small  edifice, 
on  the  plan  of  one  at  Ruthin.  Over  the  e.  gateway  of  the  town  are 
apartments,  anciently  occupied  by  the  Escheator  of  N.  Wales,  and  subse¬ 
quently,  as  the  custom-house,  was  converted  into  a  county  hall,  for  trans¬ 
acting  municipal  business.  According  to  an  inscribed  label  in  front,  this 
was  effected  by  the  munificence  of  Sir  William  Wynn  and  his  nephew, 
T.  Wynn,  Esq.,  in  the  year  I767. 

A  New  Market-House  has  been  lately  erected,  with  excellent  shambles, 
and  stalls  for  other  articles,  over  and  under  which  are  warerooms  for 
housing  grain  and  other  unsold  commodities.  The  hot  and  cold  sea- water 
Baths,  built  by  the  Earl  of  Uxbridge,  add  considerably  to  the  accommoda¬ 
tions  of  Caernarvon.  The  magnificent  Hotel  on  the  borders  of  the  town, 
replete  with  every  accommodation,  was  also  built  by  the  same  patriotic 
nobleman.  It  is  an  elegant  stone  structure,  disposed  without  the  walls, 
a  little  above  the  Menai,  of  which  it  commands  a  fine  prospect.  In  point 
of  accommodation  and  elegance,  this  Hotel  appears  to  emulate  the 
Penrhyn  Arms,  near  Bangor.  Some  charming  views  of  the  sea  and 
Anglesea  could  be  enjoyed  even  from  the  door,  but  a  plantation  of  trees 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  have  risen  to  intercept  this  delightful  pro¬ 
spect.  For  aquatic  excursions,  a  boat  may  be  engaged  for  one  guinea  a 
day.  From  the  summit  of  the  rock  called  Tuthill,  behind  the  hotel,  an 
excellent  bird’s  eye  view  of  the  town  may  be  obtained.  Hence,  also,  the 
castle  and  town  walls  may  be  seen  to  the  best  advantage.  When  the 
atmosphere  is  clear,  the  Isle  of  Anglesea,  with  Holyhead  and  Parys  moun¬ 
tains,  spread  out  beneath  the  eye  like  a  map.  Sometimes  the  very  remote 
mountains  of  Wicklow  may  be  perceived  over  the  Channel.  On  the  e. 
side  are  the  British  Alps.  The  lofty  Glyders  are  also  seen  much  above  the 
neighbouring  summits.  The  Goat  and  Sportsman  are  mentioned  as  good 
Inns.  A  large  ancient  mansion,  called  Plds-mawr,  from  its  unique 
appearance,  often  attracts  the  attention  of  travellers.  Two  dates  in  front 


CAERNARVON. 


149 

inform  the  observer  that  the  edifice  was  constructed  or  altered_,  during  the 
year  I69I.  Another  structure  in  Blackboy  Street^  is  dated  l6l3.  The 
town  contains  some  good  houses^  and  the  suburbs  extend  beyond  the  walls. 
Various  improvements  have  been  made  during  the  last  few  years.  What 
was  called  “  the  Maes^”  near  the  Castle,  long  a  nuisance  to  the  place,  now 
forms  the  site  of  a  handsome  row  of  buildings.  No  manufactories  are 
established  at  Caernarvon,  but  its  maritime  station  enables  it  to  carry  on  a 
considerable  coasting  trade  with  London,  Bristol,  Liverpool  and  Ireland ; 
and  some  foreign  connections  have  recently  been  attempted.  The  Eistedd- 
vod,  or  Bardic  Session  for  the  province  of  Gwynedd,  was  held  here  on 
the  12th  of  Sept.  1822.  The  interest  taken  in  these  national  festivals  does 
great  honour  to  the  Principality.  The  Harbour  affords  a  sufficient  quan¬ 
tity  of  sea-room,  and  excellent  anchorage  from  ten  to  twelve  fathoms. 
The  import  trade  consists  of  wines,  coals,  porter,  groceries,  &c.  &c.,  and 
the  export  principally  of  slates,  which  are  procured  from  a  quarry  about 
7  m.  E.  of  the  town,  and  sent  to  Liverpool,  Bristol,  London,  and  Dublin. 
The  copper  ore  from  the  Snowdon  and  Llanberis  mines  is  shipped  here 
for  the  founderies  at  Swansea.  The  Quay,  ranging  upon  one  side  of  the 
Castle,  is  of  considerable  extent.  An  act  obtained  in  1809^  embraces 
the  capacious  plan  of  taking  out  a  pier,  and  extending  the  quays  in  a 
N.  E.  direction.  This  port  is  a  creek,  dependent  upon  the  haven  of  Beau¬ 
maris.  About  20  vessels  are  employed  in  the  foreign,  and  1100  in  the 
coasting  trade,  navigated  by  S6’00  men.  The  harbour  is  greatly  improved ; 
buoys  have  been  laid  down  on  the  bar  to  mark  the  entrance;  and  a  break¬ 
water  on  the  high  land  at  Llanddwyn,  forms  a  secure  station  for  vessels.  A 
railroad,  9  in  extent,  has  been  formed  for  the  conveyance  of  slate  and 
copper  ore  from  Llanllyfni  and  Llandwrog.  A  small  decked  cutter,  con¬ 
taining  two  beds,  and  a  cabin  capable  of  containing  10  persons,  may  be 
hired  for  a  guinea  per  day. 


Directions  for  Ships  and  Vessels  sailing  into  Caernarvon  Harbour,  over  the 

Bar. 

In  order  to  facilitate  the  navigation  of  this  harbour,  two  buoys  are  placed 
on  the  bar,  the  outer  is  painted  black,  and  the  inner  red ;  a  perch  is  also 
erected  upon  the  bank,  called  the  Muscle  Bank. 

Llanddwyn  Point  lies  about  2  m.  distance  from  the  black  buoy  (which  is 
moored  in  the  entrance  of  the  bar,  in  about  15  feet  water,  at  low  water,  ave¬ 
rage  spring  tides)  in  a  n.  by  e.  direction. 

Dinas  Dinlle  lies  from  3  m.,  or  from  that  to  m.  distance  from 
the  black  buoy  in  a  s.  e.  direction. 

The  black  buoy  lies  about  1  m.  distance  from  the  red  buoy  in  a  s.  w. 
direction. 

The  red  buoy  lies  about  2m.  or  from  that  to  2^m.  distance  from  the  perch, 
in  a  w.  by  n.  direction.  The  perch  lies  near  1  m.  distance  from  Abermenai, 
in  a  w.  direction,  where  ships  and  vessels  may  anchor  in  safety. 

Masters  of  vessels  drawing  12  feet  water  and  upwards  should  not  (in  a 
gale  of  wind)  approach  this  bar  until  four  hours’  flood. 

All  vessels  coming  in  should  leave  the  perch  on  the  larboard  hand. 

High  water  at  full  and  change,  at  a  ^  after  9  o^clock  ;  average  spring 
tides  rise  and  fall  on  the  bar  from  I6  to  18  feet ;  neap  ditto  from  6  to  8  feet. 

Expert  pilots  may  always  be  had  on  making  the  proper  signal. 

This  harbour  has  been  lately  considerably  enlarged  and  improved,  a  great 
number  of  large  vessels  are  built  here  annually.  It  is  a  most  convenient 

L  3 


150 


CAERNARVON. 


place  for  repainng  of  old  vessels.  There  is  an  extensive  trade  carried  on 
in  the  exportation  of  slates  (of  the  best  quality)^  and  other  articles^  to  most 
parts  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland^  and  consists  of 
convenient  quays  and  wharfs,  for  the  reception  and  safety  of  ships  and  ves¬ 
sels  loading  and  unloading,  or  lying  within  the  limits  of  this  port. 

The  trustees  of  this  harbour  have  expended  from  400/.  to  500/.  in  blasting 
some  of  the  rocks  at  the  Swillies,  to  low-water  mark,  which  has  rendered  a 
most  free  passage  for  ships  and  vessels  of  large  burden,  coming  from  the  e. 
to  this  harbour,  or  sailing  through  the  straits  of  Menai. 

The  N.  and  s.  banks  of  this  bar  are  subject  to  shift;  when  they  do 
shift,  or  the  buoys  part  from  their  moorings,  proper  care  will  be  taken  to 
moor  buoys  in  the  deep,  as  at  present,  and  the  true  bearings,  distances,  &c. 
of  them  are  here  particularised. 

The  Custom  House  is  a  small,  insignificant  looking  building,  situated 
without  the  town  walls.  A  ferry  over  the  Seiont  leads  from  the  quay  to  a 
walk  through  the  wood,  which  commands  extensive  and  pleasing  views. 
There  is  a  well  supplied  market  on  Saturdays,  and  four  annual  fairs,  viz. 
Feb.  25.,  May  l6.,  Aug.  4.,  Dec.  4.  In  1801  the  number  of  houses 
amounted  to  609»  the  inhabitants  to  3626,  viz.  males  1588,  females  2038. 
The  Agricultural  Society  was  founded  in  1807. 

Llanbeblig  is  the  parish  church  of  Caernarvon,  about  |  m.  from  the  town, 
supposed  to  have  derived  its  name  from  Publicus,  the  son  of  Helina,  The 
service  is  performed  in  M^elsh.  In  the  church  is  an  altar  tomb,  erected  to  the 
memory  of  William,  a  son  of  SirWm.GryfFyd,of  Penhyrn,  who  died  in  1587, 
and  Margaret  his  wife.  Two  recumbent  figures  upon  a  mat,  carved  in  white 
marble,  exhibit  an  exquisitely  fine  specimen  of  the  sculptile  art.  From  Caer¬ 
narvon,  along  the  w.  part  of  the  bay,  the  shore  is  flat,  forming  a  sandy  or 
gravelly  beach,  over  which  a  good  road  has  been  formed.  The  antiquary,  how¬ 
ever,  will  be  diverted  from  this  by  a  part  of  a  Roman  road,  appearing  upon 
the  r.  and  extending  from  Segontium  to  the  strong  post  of  Dinas-DinUe. 
This  includes  the  top  of  a  large  mount,  apparently  artificially  formed,  upon 
the  verge  of  an  extensive  marsh  near  the  shore.  Upon  the  summit  is  a  large 
area,  surrounded  by  a  vast  rampart  pf  earth  ;  within  this  space,  the  remains 
of  buildings,  of  an  oblong  form,  are  discernible.  One  part  is  defended  by  a 
deep  foss,  with  two  lofty  ramparts.  To  this  great  centre  correspond  several 
other  forts,  which  lie  in  various  directions.  The  most  considerable  on  the 
E.  are  Dinorddwig,  in  the  parish  of  Llanddeiniolen  still  entire,  strength¬ 
ened  with  a  double  ditch  and  rampart,  and  Yr-hSn-Gastell,  old  castle,” 
near  the  Carrog,  is  a  small  entrenchment,  with  a  single  rampart,  50  paces 
long  ;  Dinas  Gorfan,  near  Pont  Newydd,  has  only  a  name  remaining.  These 
are  both  in  the  parish  of  Llanwnda  ;  about  3  m.  towards  the  s.,  one  of  the 
most  rocky  is  Craig -y -Dinas ,  on  the  river  Llyfni,  distant  1-|  m.  This 
is  a  circular  encampment,  about  100  paces  in  diameter,  very  steep  towards 
the  river,  and  on  every  side  except  the  w.  The  ramparts,  with  a  treble  ditch, 
are  formed  of  loose  stones,  exceedingly  strong,  and  tiot  to  be  taken  out, 
without  great  force.  The  entrance  is  towards  the  n.  This  fort  is  about 
1  m.  s.w.  of  the  great  road  that  leads  from  Caernarvon  to  Pwllheli,  i  m.  from 
Lleiar,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Twissletons.  Farther  on,  at  the  foot  of 
Llanhaiarn  mountain,  and  not  far  from  the  spot  where  the  parish  joins 
upon  Llan-Gybi,  there  is  a  small  fort  at  the  top  of  a  high  rock  called  Caer. 
There  are  other  smaller  forts  interspersed  about  the  country.  These  were 
either  the  residences  of  generals,  as  Gasl§s,  in  the  parish  of  Llanwnda, 
or  places  of  observation  as  Dinas-y-Prif,  in  the  same  parish,  where  there 
is  a  deep  ditch  and  entrance,  looking  towards  the  principal  fort  Dinas  Dinlle. 


CAERNARVON. 


151 


In  a  salt-marsli  opposite  Caernarvon  Castle,  grows  the  Plantago  maritima, 
P.  coronopus,  Triglochin  maritimum,  Samolus  valerandi,  Glaux  maritima. 
Euphorbia  portlandica,  &c.  Arenaria  marina  ;  on  dry  hanks  near  the  Castle, 
Carduus  tenuiflorus  ;  among  the  bushes  on  the  rocks  near,  Polypodium  acu- 
leatum.  On  the  shore  near  Llan-vaglan,  Erodium  maritimum,  Cheiiopo- 
dium  maritimum,  and  Silene  maritima  ;  in  a  cornfield,  Silene  anglica.  On 
walls  upon  the  coast  near  Llanfaglan  church,  Erodium  maritimum;  be¬ 
tween  Caernarvon  and  Llanfaglan  church,  Glaucium  luteum;  on  Rhuddgaer 
warren,  nearly  opposite  the  town  of  Caernarvon,  Sedum  sexangulare.  Near 
Caernarvon,  in  swampy  meadows,  grow  Anagallis  tenella,  Spergula  nodosa. 
Ranunculus  lingua,  Scutellaria  minor,  Epipactis  palustris  ,*  in  hedges  near 
the  coast,  Sedum  telephium ;  sandy  sea-coast.  Euphorbia  portlandica ;  on 
sandy  barren  places,  Tormentilla  reptans  ;  near  Rhuddgaer  warren,  in  shal¬ 
low  streams.  Ranunculus  hederaceous,  in  cornfields,  Stachys  arvensis  ;  in 
old  pastures,  Neottia  spiralis  ;  in  the  rivers,  Zannichellia  palustris ;  in  lanes. 
Polypodium  filix  foemina;  among  bushes  of  the  rock  Tuthill,  behind  the 
Hotel,  Sedum  telephium,  Rosa  spinosissima,  upon  the  top  of  Tuthill,  Astra¬ 
galus  hypoglottis ;  about  the  sides  of  ponds,  Lysimachia  vulgaris ;  near 
Trefarthen,  about  half  way  between  Tal-y-Voel  and  Moel-y-don  ferries, 
Pulmonaria  maritima ;  among  the  sand  on  the  coast  to  Mol-y-don,  Salsola 
kali;  in  uncultivated  places  between  Caernarvon  and  Moel-y-don,  Orobanche 
major.  On  the  side  of  Llyn  C welly n,  on  the  way  to  Beddgelart,  Silene  an¬ 
glica,  on  the  road- side  to  Bangor,  Ribes  uva-crispa ;  in  hedges  plentifully, 
Rosa  spinosissima ;  in  a  hedge  near  the  Menai,  between  Carmarthen  and 
Llanfair,  Iscaer,  Hypericum  androsaemum  ;  towards  Llanberis,  in  bogs,  Hy¬ 
pericum  elodes  ;  on  heaths  and  thickets  in  exposed  situations,  H.  pulchrum  ; 
upon  heaths  plentifully.  Polypodium  ore-opteris.  Upon  the  side  of  Llyn 
Cwellyn,  on  the  road  to  Beddgelart,  Silene  maritima.  In  various  parts  of 
the  county  of  Caernarvon,  in  peat  bogs,  Vaccinium  Oxy coccus :  among  the 
mountains,  Rubus  Chamaemorus,  in  dry  places.  Lycopodium  clavatum,  L. 
alpinum  ;  upon  rocks,  Silene  acaulis,  Hieracium  murorum,  Serratula  alpina, 
Saxifraga  hypnoides,  Sedum  anglicum ;  upon  old  walls  and  moist  rocks. 
Cotyledon  Umbilicus. 

The  Roman  road  from  Dinas  Dinlle  to  Segontium,  and  thence  to  Dinas 
Dinarddwig,  is  in  some  places  visible.  Segontium  received  its  name  from 
the  river  Seiont,  under  the  walls  of  which  the  lower  lake  at  Llanberis,  passes 
and  discharges  itself  into  the  Menai,  near  the  Castle  of  Caernarvon.  It  is 
of  an  oblong  shape,  and  formerly  occupied  about  6  acres  of  ground,  but  is  now 
intersected  by  the  road  which  leads  to  Beddgelart.  Not  far  hence  is  the 
ancient  fort  which  attached  to  it,  also  of  an  oblong  figure,  and  containing 
about  an  acre  of  ground.  They  are  at  present  about  11  feet  high,  and  6 
thick  :  at  each  corner  there  has  been  a  tower.  The  Romans  formed  their  walls 
by  first  placing  stones  one  upon  another,  generally  in  two  courses,  one  of  a 
regular,  and  the  other  in  a  zigzag  form ;  they  then  poured  boiling  mortar 
upon  them,  which  insinuated  itself  into  the  many  openings  and  hollows  of 
the  work,  and  thereby,  from  its  cementing  property,  bound  the  irregular 
pieces  of  stone  into  a  firm  and  solid  mass.  The  mortar  used  in  this  instance 
has  become  so  indurated,  as  to  equal  almost  the  hardness  of  stone.  Along 
the  walls  are  three  parallel  rows  of  circular  apertures,  each  nearly  three  in¬ 
ches  in  diameter,  which  pass  through  the  whole  ;  and  at  the  end  are  others 
similar.  There  has  been  much  learned  conjecture  as  to  their  use;  some  have 
supposed  them  to  have  been  for  the  discharge  of  arrows ;  others,  that  they 
have  been  left  to  admit  air,  in  order  to  harden  the  liquid  cement  which  was 
poured  in ;  and  others,  that  they  were  made  for  the  purpose  of  placing  in 
them  poles  to  support  scaffolding  used  in  constructing  the  walls. 

L  4 


15£ 


CAERNARVON. 


From  Caernarvon  may  be  made  a  long  and  interesting  digression, 
including  some  of  the  most  striking  scenery  in  N.  Wales,  by  way  of  the 
beautiful  lake  called  Llyn  Cywellyn,  under  the  foot  of  Snowdon  to  Bedd- 
GELART,  thence  along  the  alpine  road  to  Capel  Curig,  and  return  to  Caer¬ 
narvon,  by  Llanberis  Lakes  and  Dolbadarn  Castle.  On  setting  out,  the 
vale  Nant-y-Bettws ,  or  Bettws- Garmon,  m.  contains  few  objects  worth 
noticing,  except  to  the  mineralogist  and  botanist.  Bettws  parish  church  or 
chapel  stands  at  the  lower  end  of  the  vale,  at  the  foot  of  that  extensive  and 
high  hill  called  Moel  Elio.  It  is  dedicated  to  the  same  St.  Garmon  who 
effected,  with  his  fellow  Saint  Lupus,  the  Hallelujah  victory  near  Mold, 
in  Flintshire.  The  name  Bettws  is  probably  from  Bedw,  birch,  such  places 
being  planted  and  sheltered  by  birch-trees,  indicates  low,  retired,  and 
warm  places.  Nantmill  and  its  waterfall  with  Plas-yn-y-Nant,  Sir  Rob. 
Williams,  1  m.  At  the  lower  end  of  Cywellyn  Lake,  on  the  s.  side,  is  a 
hanging  precipice  jetting  out  of  the  higher  rock  called  Castel  Cidwm,  or 
Cidwm’s  Castle,  said  to  have  been  the  fortress  to  this  mountainous  passage. 
Over  a  tongue  of  rising  ground,  is  a  farm  cdlMedi  Drws-y-Coed,  where,  about 
17^8,  was  a  great  copper  mine,  in  which  a  Chester  company  were  con¬ 
cerned,  but  it  proved  an  unprofitable  undertaking.  Further  on  is  the 
public-house  where  resided  a  guide  to  Snowdon.  Turn  at  the  end  of  the 
lake  to  the  r.  and  pass  Pant~du,  2  m.  whence,  winding  to  the  1.  reach 
Llanllyfni.  Return  by  the  same  road,  and  pass  Llyniau,  Llyniau 
Nantle;  from  hence  Wilson  made  a  fine  picture  of  Snowdon,  which  was 
engraved  by  Woollet.  Repassing  Drws-y-Coed,  turn  to  the  r.  along  the  w. 
side  of  Llyn-y-dywarchen,  the  lake  of  the  sod,’’  where  a  floating  island, 
similar  to  one  described  by  Giraldus,  still  retains  its  miraculous  appearance. 
Pursuing  the  same  road,  1  m.  come  into  the  Beddgelart  road  at  Llyn-y- 
Gader,  and  passing  several  extensive  mountain  farms  on  the  r.  and  1.  about 
4  m.  from  Cwellyn  bridge,  arrive  at  the  village  of  Beddgelart. 

The  road  all  the  way  from  Caernarvon  to  Aberglaslyn,  runs  upon  plain 
even  ground.  Yet  though  the  farms  are  situated  thus  low,  the  farmers 
raise  little  corn.  A  few  patches  of  oats  form  the  principal  part  of  their  corn 
produce ;  these  are  sown  in  April  or  May,  and  the  fogs  prevent  their  ripen¬ 
ing.  It  is  in  this  manner  they  set  at  defiance  their  country  proverb, 

Cyntaf  ei  og,  cyntaf  ei  grymman  i.  e.  the  first  his  harrow,  the  first  his 
sickle.  Wheat  and  barley  are  never  or  but  rarely  sown,  though  the  soil  is 
excellent,  of  a  sufficient  depth,  and  fit  for  any  grain,  and  though  sea-sand  or 
lime  can  be  procured  at  a  moderate  expense. 

The  road  from  Caernarvon  to  Llanberis  is  mostly  rugged  and  un¬ 
pleasant,  lying  for  half  the  way  over  a  flat  and  barren  country.  But 
having  passed  the  first  or  lower  lake,  Nantperis  presents  some  truly  grand 
scenery.  The  bold  and  prominent  rocks  which  ascend  almost  immediately 
from  the  edges  of  the  lake,  and  tower  into  the  sky,  cast  a  pleasing  gloom 
upon  the  landscape.  The  more  distant  mountains  of  the  vale,  embosoming 
the  moss  grown  village,  with  the  meadowy  flat  around  it,  are  seen  retiring 
in  lines  crossing  each  other  behind,  in  the  most  picturesque  manner, 
while  the  intermediate  space  between  the  village  is  filled  up  with  a  small 
lake,  in  which  the  mountains  which  bound  it  contrast  their  sombre  hue, 
and  render  the  scene  most  interesting.  To  Pont  Rhug  m. ;  on  the  r. 
Llanrhug  Ij  m.  j  end  of  the  lower  lake  2  m. ;  Dolbadarn  Castle,  2  m.; 
Llanberis,  2  m. 

Two  m.  on  the  road  to  Beddgelart  is  a  house  called  Glangwna,  which 
has  been  often  noticed  as  one  of  the  most  charming  retreats  in  the  Princi¬ 
pality.  It^is  so  sequestered  as  scarcely  to  be  seen  from  the  road.  It  was  lately 


CAERNARVON. 


153 


the  seat  of  the  Rev.  - - Roberts^  archdeacon  of  Merioneth_,  then  the  pro¬ 

perty  of  Thomas  Lloyd,  Esq._,  of  Shrewsbury.  Several  Roman  coins_,  old 
swords,  &c.,  were  found  here,  from  which  circumstance  it  is  conjectured 
that  the  Romans,  while  at  Segontium,  might  have  retreated  hither  on  some 
emergency.  Few  travellers  have  passed  Plds~yn-y-Nant,  the  seat  of  Sir 
Robert  Williams,  without  being  much  gratified.  It  is  a  fine  alpine  retreat, 
consisting  of  a  verdant  lawn,  from  which  ascend  on  all  sides  abrupt  and 
towering  precipices.  Plds  Tirion  is  another  mansion  in  the  parish  of 
Llanrhug,  the  property  of  John  Rowlands,  of  CrCig,  Esq.  There  are  several 
slate  quarries  on  Glyn  Rhanwy  farm  and  Cefn-du  hill,  in  this  neighbour¬ 
hood.  The  slate  is  brought  down  in  boats  to  the  lower  end  of  Llanberis 
lake,  and  thence  carried  in  carts  to  Caernarvon.  There  is  a  day'and  Sunday 
school,  supported  by  the  contributions  of  the  parishioners :  the  number  of 
children  is  from  40  to  50.  At  about  4  m.  distance,  occurs,  in  front,  a  view 
of  Nant  Gwyrfai  (the  vale  of  fresh  water).  A  range  of  sloping  rocks  forms 
the  middle  distance.  The  towering  rock  of  Mynydd  Mawr  rises  behind,  on 
the  right.  Opposite  is  the  smooth  and  verdant  mountain  of  Moel  Eilio,  the 
frosty  hill.”  This  hill  may  be  ascended  without  difficulty,  and  the  summit 
contains  a  very  extensive  view.  The  rival  mountains  appear  quite  near,  and 
beyond  them  the  whole  remaining  extent  of  the  promontory  of  Llyn,  as  far 
as  Aberdaron.  Part  of  Cywellyn  pool  is  seen  just  below,  from  the  edge  of 
which  the  immense  Mynydd  Mawr  rears  his  rugged  sides.  Beyond  is  one 
of  the  Nantlle  pools  and  Llyn  Cwm  Ffynnon.  Southwards  is  a  long  range 
of  mountain,  summits,  and  hollows.  At  some  distance  the  yellow  sands  of 
Traeth  Mawr.  The  distant  mountains  of  Merionethshire  close  the  scene. 
On  the  s.  e.  is  a  dreary  vale,  containing  a  small  pool.  Beyond,  Snowdon 
is  easily  distinguished.  Part  of  the  vale  and  lakes  of  Llanberis,  with  Dol- 
badarn  Castle  may  be  descried.  Descend  to  the  road  not  far  from  the 
romantic  little  village  and  beautiful  valley  of  Bettws  Garmon,  so  called  from 
its  church  being  dedicated  to  St.  Germanus  or  Garmon,  who  led  the  Britons 
to  the  famous  Hallelujah  ”  victory  obtained  over  the  Saxons  at  Maes 
Garmon,  near  Mold.  But  the  majestic  mountain  of  Mynydd  Mawr  and 
the  lofty  Moel  Eilio  on  the  1.,  tower  so  much  above  it  as  to  make  it  appear 
diminutive.  Beyond  the  mill  Snowdon  is  seen  on  the  1.  rearing  his  pointed 
summit.  The  pool  called  Llyn  Cywellyn,  1|  m.  in  extent,  is  of  un¬ 
known  depth.  Here  the  Torgodi,  or  Savelian  char,  in  deep  recesses,  is 
supposed  to  pass  the  milder  seasons  of  the  year.  It  is  of  an  elegant  form. 
The  fervid  aspect  of  its  colours,  when  first  taken,  are  beautiful.  It  is 
caught  most  easily  with  a  worm  or  caddis,  on  the  r.  of  the  road.  The 
scenery  at  this  lake  is  most  perfect :  never  were  a  crystal  mirror  and  stu¬ 
pendous  naked  rocks  more  finely  contrasted.  Snowdon,  on  the  1.  in  this 
approach  to  Beddgelart,  loses  much  of  his  grandeur,  and  scarcely  appears 
like  himself.  From  a  farm  in  Cwm  Delhi,  on  the  1.  of  the  road,  his  front 
is  infinitely  more  imposing.  On  its  farther  edge,  and  just  under  Mynydd 
Mawr,  is  Castell  Cidwm,  i.  e.  Cidwm’s  Fort,  a  high  and  steep  rock,  on  the 
summit  of  which,  it  is  said,  was  once  a  fortification,  as  a  guard  to  the 
entrance  of  Snowdonia. 

The  scenery  of  the  Menai  may  be  viewed  with  advantage  by  hiring  a 
boat  to  Bangor  ferry.  Its  coasts  from  the  entrance  of  the  strait  to  Caer¬ 
narvon  are  flat  and  naked  ;  but  advancing  3  m.  from  the  castle,  the  stream 
assumes  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  the  Wye.  The  Caernarvon  side  is  di¬ 
versified  by  woods  and  meadows,  and  the  shore  of  Anglesea  is  a  continued 
grove.  The  latter  side  is  embellished  by  handsome  villas.  On  the  r. 
Llanfair  Iscaer,  2^  m.  Plds  Llanf air,  \  m. ;  on  1.  Plds  Llanlidan,  Moel- 


154 


CAERNARVON. 


y-don  Ferry,  1  m. ;  on  1.  Llanedwen.  Between  Llanfair  Point  and  the 
church  of  Llanlidan  is  the  supposed  spot  where  Suetonius  Paulinus 
passed  over  with  his  army.  In  confirmation  of  this  conjecture^  there  is  a 
large  field  near  the  water  side^  called  Maes  Mawr  Gad,  the  great  army’s 
field ;  and  a  little  to  the  e.  is  a  place  called  the  Rhiedd,  the  chief  men’s 
(^Rowland's  Mona,''  p.  86*.)  Moel-y-don  Ferry,  1  m.  on  1.  Llan¬ 
edwen;  on  r.  Bryntirion  ^  m.  Mr.  Wyndham  says  that  in  the  begin- 
ing  of  November,  1777^  there  was  accidentally  discovered  at  the  hamlet  of 
Bryncelly  (perhaps  Bryntirion),  between  Plas  Newydd  and  Moel-y-don 
Ferry,  a  subterraneous  gallery,  18  feet  in  length,  S  in  breadth,  and  6  in 
height.  This  led  to  a  chamber  of  the  same  height,  covered  with  a  stone 
12  feet  long  and  9  wide.  A  small  round  pillar  seemed  to  afford  some  sup¬ 
port  to  this  stone  from  the  centre  of  the  room.  Many  human  bones  were 
upon  the  floor,  which  mouldered  into  dust  on  being  touched.”  On  1. 
Llanedwen,  Bids  Nevjydd,  \  m.,  ‘^‘^the  new  mansion,”  anciently  Llwyn- 
Moel,  the  church  on  the  hill,”  one  of  the  principal  groves  in  Anglesea, 
sacred  to  Druidic  worship,  and  formerly  the  seat  of  Sir  Nicholas  Bayley,  but 
now  of  the  Marquess  of  Anglesea.  It  stands  upon  the  site  of  a  house  once 
the  property  of  the  celebrated  Gwenllian,  a  descendant  of  Cadrod  Hardd. 
The  present  mansion  is  an  elegant  modern  structure,  and,  perhaps,  without 
exception,  when  the  situation  and  the  adaptation  of  the  building  are  con¬ 
sidered,  it  exhibits  one  of  the  finest  displays  of  judicious  taste.  The  front  is 
composed  of  a  centre  and  two  wings  ;  the  former  being  nearly  semilunar,  and 
the  latter  semioctagonal.  At  each  angle  of  the  sides  of  the  centre  and  wings 
an  octagonal  turret  rises  from  the  basement,  above  the  embattled  parapet 
several  feet,  terminating  in  a  small  spire,  surmounted  with  a  gilded  vane. 
The  height  is  three  stories,  the  windows  plain  sashed  parallelograms,  having 
square  reverted  labels  ;  except  the  lower  stories,  which  contain  three  lights 
with  mullions,  tracery,  and  lozenged  glass.  The  front  is  further  extended 
by  an  elegant  gothicised  hall,  over  which  is  a  chapel  on  nearly  a  similar 
plan.  The  interior  and  exterior  correspond.  The  entrance  hall  on  the  n. 
side  of  the  building  is  lofty,  but  from  its  Gothic  doors,  niches,  and  other 
recesses,  resembles  a  chapel.  In  front  of  the  entrance  is  a  colonnade,  enriched 
with  tabernacle  work,  over  which  a  passage  forms  a  communication  with 
the  different  apartments  :  the  whole  is  lighted  by  a  flat  lantern  dome.  On 
the  1.  is  the  dining  hall,  very  extensive  and  lofty,  having  five  large  lancet- 
shaped  windows  on  one  side,  and  an  elegant  groined  roof.  Several  portraits 
by  Vandyke  and  other  celebrated  painters,  adorn  the  walls.  The  drawing¬ 
room,  in  the  centre  of  the  front,  is  lined  with  painted  silk,  the  angles,  bur¬ 
nished  gold.  The  parlours,  billiard,  and  anterooms  correspond  in  neat¬ 
ness,  and  the  library  is  handsomely  finished.  The  state  bed  and  octagon 
sitting-rooms  are  spacious,  and  highly  ornamented.  The  chapel  has  three 
large  pointed  windows  on  each  side  with  stained  glass,  and  a  finely  groined 
and  fretted  roof.  The  altar  at  the  e.  end  is  highly  ornamented  with  taber¬ 
nacle  work,  has  a  receding  canopy,  and  on  each  side  the  entrance  at  the  w. 
end  are  two  enriched  stalls  for  chaplains,  over  which  is  a  handsome  organ 
loft.  The  principal  staircase  is  of  stone,  wide  and  lofty  ;  the  different  coi*' 
ridors  equally  elegant  and  convenient ;  and  the  private  spiral  geometric 
staircase  unique.  The  whole  is  built  of  marble  from  the  quarries  of  Moelfa, 
near  Redwharf  bay,  from  the  plan  and  superintendence  of  Mr.  Potter  of 
Lichfield.  The  house,  as  seen  from  the  water,  backed  by  a  dense  wood, 
has  an  imposing  appearance.  A  parapeted  bastion  wall,  placed  as  a  de¬ 
fence  against  the  sea,  along  which  runs  a  handsome  terrace  in  front  of  the 
sloping  lawn,  together  with  sea-baths  on  the  1.  and  an  elegant  greenhouse 
on  the  r.,  add  considerably  to  the  fascinating  effect.  The  stables  are 


CAERNARVON. 


155 


elegant^  spacious^  and  convenient.  The  park,  though  not  extensive,  is  well 
wooded,  and  exhibits  by  the  aid  of  walks  and  rides  laid  out  with  judgment, 
very  considerable  diversity.  In  1831,  the  Marquess  had  the  distinguished 
honour  of  entertaining  his  Majesty  George  IV.  here  when  on  his  way 
to  Dublin. 

At  a  little  distance,  near  a  path  leading  into  the  road  from  Plas  Newydd,  is 
a  large  Carnedd,  which  once  covered  a  space  of  ground  142  yards  in  circum¬ 
ference,  raised  into  a  pyramid  with  stones,  thrown  promiscuously  together, 
and  mixed  with  soil  to  favour  the  growth  of  trees  on  the  surface.  Sir 
Nicholas  Bayley,  supposing  it  a  mere  heap  of  rubbish,  began  to  level  it, 
but  meeting  with  human  bones,  the  workmen  were  ordered  to  desist.  The 
present  form  of  this  sepulchre  is  a  bank  about  90  yards  in  circumference, 
and  14  feet  high,  composed  of  stones  covered  with  grass,  and  here  and 
there  a  tree.  This  elevation  is  also  depressed  at  the  centre,  in  the  form 
of  a  bowl.  At  the  bottom  of  this  hollow  lies  a  flat  stone,  6  feet  square, 
which,  supported  at  one  end  and  two  sides  by  other  upright  stones,  leaves 
an  opening  into  which  a  man  might  creep.  At  the  far  end  is  another 
stone,  which  lies  •.  in  the  same  state,  but  is  only  about  4  feet  square. 
At  6  yards  distance,  are  some  other  parts.  200  yards  n.  of  this  carnedd, 
and  the  same  distance  from  the  Menai,  stands  the  completest  Cromlech  in 
Anglesea.  The  capstone  of  this  ancient  British  monument  is  12  feet  long 
in  the  centre,  and  10  broad.  On  one  side  it  is  12^  feet  long,  and  only 
8  on  the  other.  A  corner  seems  always  to  have  been  wanting.  The  head 
or  upper  end  of  this  stone,  which  lies  flat,  and  points  towards  the  e.,  is,  in 
the  thickest  part,  4|  feet,  and  the  other  end  3|.  This  ponderous  weight 
was  supported  by  seven  upright  stones,  4  feet  high,  or  rather  the  irregular 
points  of  seven,  but  two  of  them  have  fallen.  One  lies  within  and  the 
other  is  in  an  inclined  position  near  the  foot.  An  idea  of  this  Druidic 
erection,  which  has  weathered  out  more  than  2000  years,  may  be  formed  by 
supposing  it  the  interior  of  a  small  room,  4  feet  high  and  6  wide,  supported 
by  five  stones.  As  the  cromlech  stands  on  the  declivity  of  an  eminence,  the 
capstone  on  one  side  is  only  2  feet  from  the  ground,  that  ground  being 
also  a  little  elevated ;  but  on  the  other  side,  4  feet.  11  inches  from  the  lower 
end,  stands  a  much  smaller  cromlech.  Various  conjectures  have  been 
risked  on  these  pieces  of  antiquity.  Hutton  says  he  has  no  doubt  the 
greater  cromlech  was  used  for  the  sacrifice,  and  the  lesser  was  for  the 
priest.  Others  object  that  the  upper  stones  are  too  small  and  too  high  for 
a  fire  to  be  kindled  upon  them  ;  they  are  also  so  thin,  that  an  intense  heat 
would  have  cracked  and  broken  them.  It  is  certain  that  these  altars  are 
uniformly  lower  at  one  end,  and  have  a  channel  as  if  for  the  conveyance  of 
blood.  If  these  structures  were  used  as  the  machinery  of  a  horrible 
superstition,  there  is  little  doubt  but  the  fury  of  the  Romans  would  have 
demolished  them  ;  but  it  does  not  appear  that  they  overthrew  any  of 
them  ;  even  Stonehenge,  the  most  astonishing  of  these  structures,  was  neither 
destroyed  nor  injured. 

On  the  1.  Llanfair,  l;i- ni. ;  on  r.  Upper  Trehorth ;  on  1.  Llandysilio, 
1  m.  ;  on  a  ruin  near  which  is  found  the  fern  Grammitis  Ceterach. 
About  J  m.  below  Bangor  Ferry  are  the  frightful  passes  of  the  Smelly, 
lying  between  three  large  rocks.  A  little  above  the  Smelly  is  the  small 
church  of  Llandysilio,  standing  upon  a  rock,  which  at  high  water  is  insu¬ 
lated.  Porthtraethmy  Ferry,  g  m. 

Upon  the  summit  of  a  rocky  eminence,  called  Craig-y ■‘Dinas,  a 
column  was  erected  in  the  year  1816,  to  commemorate  the  military  services 
of  the  roost  noble  the  Marquess  of  Anglesea.  It  is  distant  from  Menai 


156 


CAERNARVON. 


Bridge^  2  m. ;  from  Plas  Newydd,  m.  The  expense  was  defrayed  by 
voluntary  subscriptions,,  amounting  to  about  2000/.  The  column  is  of  the 
Doric  order  from  a  design  by  Harrison.  Its  height  from  the  base  is  91  feet. 
The  eminence  it  stands  upon  is  about  170  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea^ 
commanding  very  extensive  views.  The  inscription  upon  the  column  is  as 
follows :  — 

The  Inhabitants  of  the  Counties 
of  Anglesea  and  Caernarvon 
have  erected  this  column, 

In  grateful  commemoration 
of  the  distinguished  military  achievements 
of  their  Countryman 
Henry  William  Marquess  of  Anglesey, 
the  leader  of  the  British  cavalry  in  Spain, 
throughout  the  arduous  campaign  of  1807, 
and  the  second  in  command  of  the  armies 
confederated  against  France  at 
the  memorable  battle  of  Waterloo 
on  the  18th  of  June,  1815. 

Another  inscription  is  in  Latin,  and  a  third  in  Welsh. 

On  1.  Bryntigy  1  m. ;  on  r.  Tan-yr-allt  and  Bangou,  1  m. ;  on  1.  Lodge, 
l|m.;  Llidiarty  Park  and  Ferry-house,  Beaumaris,  ^  m. 

To  Bangor,  on  the  e.  side  of  the  Menai,  by  way  of  Llanddeiniolen,  is 
a  small  village  in  Caernarvonshire,  on  the  r.  of  the  road  from  Caernarvon  to 
Bangor,  in  the  hundred  of  Is  Gwyrfai.  Here  are  two  mineral  springs ; 
the  first,  which  lies  about  i  m.  from  the  church,  is  still  in  some  repute  in 
rheumatic  and  scorbutic  disorders;  the  other  is  a  strong  chalybeate,  about  1  m. 
s.  E.  from  the  church  called  Ffynnon  Cegin  Arthur,  i.  e.  the  water  of  Arthur’s 
kitchen.  This  spring  forms  the  source  of  the  river  Cegin,  which  falls  into 
the  Menai  between  Bangor  and  Penrhyn.  Near  Pen-Llynn,  in  this  parish, 
are  the  ruins  of  one  of  the  palaces  of  the  princes  of  Wales,  now  called 
Lly  s,  Llys  Dinorddwig,  in  ruins,  is  said  to  have  been  a  palace  belonging 
to  the  last  Northwallian  sovereign,  Llywelyyi  ap  Gryffydd,  Llandeiniolen 
and  Llan-Rhug  parishes  in  Caernarvonshire,  comprise  a  flat,  between  the 
base  of  the  mountains  and  the  Menai.  Leaving  Nantperis  the  view  in 
the  retrospect  of  the  lakes  and  the  enclosing  mountains,  forms  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  expanse  which  now  opens.  Here  are  several  fortified  posts, 
constructed  at  an  early  age,  of  which  Dinas  Dinorddwig  is  the  principal. 
It  is  situated  about  §  m.  s.  e.  of  the  church  of  Llandeiniolen.  An  exten¬ 
sive  area  is  surrounded  by  two  ramparts  of  loose  stones,  which  are  again 
backed  by  two  valla  formed  of  earth,  and  two  very  deep  fossa.  A  circular 
stone  building  within  was  probably  the  seat  of  the  commandant,  and  has 
the  appearance  of  a  prsetorium.  It  lies  between  the  two  Roman  stations 
Segontium  and  Conovium  ;  and  there  are  vestiges  of  paved  roads  after  the 
Roman  style.  Near  Penellyn,  in  this  parish,  lived  the  celebrated  Margaret 
Uch  Evan,  whom  Pennant  calls  ^‘^the  Queen  of  the  Lakes.”  Her  cottage 
still  exists,  and  few  females  in  the  Principality  have  attained  so  great  cele¬ 
brity  as  Margaret.  (See  p.  S26.) 

i  The  hamlet  of  Snowdon  includes  a  public-house  kept  by  a  man  who  offi¬ 
ciates  as  guide  to  the  mountain  Snowdon.  If  the  guide  be  attending 
others  an  excursion  may  be  made,  passing  the  s.  e.  end  of  the  lake,  and  up 
the  mountains  by  some  very  fine  impending  rocks  enclosing  a  romantic  pass. 
Come  in  sight  of  Llyniau-NantUe,  and  to  an  opening  over  the  lakes,  in¬ 
cluding  a  view  of  the  sea.  W e  may  pass  these  lakes,  which  have  been 


CAERNARVON. 


157 


injured  by  the  influx  from  the  copper  works,  to  the  village  of  Llan-llyfni, 
where  may  be  had  bed  and  civil  treatment.  Return  by  the  pool  called 
Llyn-y-DwarcTien,  ‘^the  Lake  of  the  Sod.”  The  Insula  Erratica^  or 
wandering  island^”  mentioned  by  Giraldus  and  Camden,  is  yet  in  being. 
The  size  is  about  eight  yards  by  four  or  five.  A  boy  from  a  contiguous 
cottage  can  swim  and  draw  it  to  any  part  of  the  pool.  In  coming  again 
into|the  road,  pass  ‘‘the  Lake  of  the  Fortress,”  a  beautiful 

expanse  of  water,  surrounded  by  wild  rocks. 

The  road  to  Bangor,  upon  the  w.  banks  of  the  Menai,  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  kingdom.  The  views,  in  every  direction,  are  diversified  and 
picturesque.  To  the  r.  is  Snowdonia  and  its  concomitants  ;  among  which 
Carnedd-Llywelyn  and  Penmaenmawr  tower  in  considerable  majesty. 
The  former  is  only  sixteen  yards  lower  than  Snowdon.  On  the  1.  the 
Anglesea  shore,  with  its  numerous  inclosures  and  rich  plantations,  inter¬ 
mingled  with  the  seats  of  Plas  Coch,  PI  as  Newydd,  and  Plas  Llanidan  ; 
and  the  transparent  Menai,  opening  with  aU  the  grandeur  of  an  American 
river,  till  hid  by  the  thick  woods  of  Faenol.  The  road  gradually  diverging 
from  the  banks  of  the  Menai,  an  eminence  occurs,  whence  is  seen  the  city 
of  Bangor,  distant  about  2  m.  under  a  rocky  hill,  watered  by  a  small 
stream,  with  its  cathedral  rising  in  the  centre  ;  beyond  Beaumaris-bay, 
Ormeshead,  the  Irish  Sea ;  and  above  the  steep  ground  on  the  r.  the 
rocky  cap  of  Penmaenmawr,  or  great  stone  head. 

Llanfair  Isgaer.)  9.^  m. ;  Plus  Llanf air ^  Moel-y-don  Ferry,  l;|-m. 

Nearly  2  m.  further  on  the  1.  is  Faenol  House,  delightfully  situated  in  a 
noble  grove  of  oaks,  the  residence  of  Thomas  Asheton  Smithy  Esq.  (Near 
Faenol  is  a  serpentine  ravine  of  rather  more  than  a  mile,  extending  in  a 
direction  from  the  sea  to  the  mountains,  called  Na7it-y-GarthA)  1  m. 
beyond  is  a  road  to  the  1.  to  LlandysUio,  and  Bangor  ferry,  1  m.  and 
another  to  the  r.  to  Bangor,  2  m. 

To  Anglesea,  there  is  a  ferry-boat  over  the  Menai  (the  narrow  water), 
every  day,  when  the  weather  will  permit.  The  boat  always  goes  at  high 
water,  and,  when  ready  to  set  out,  one  of  the  men  blows  a  horn  in  Caer¬ 
narvon,  to  collect  the  passengers.  The  landing-place  is  at  Tal  y  Foel  F're 
(the  end  of  the  hill). 

To  Holyhead,  on  the  great  road,  proceed  on  the  e.  banks  of  the  Menai 
strait,  to  Llanfair  Isgaer,  3  m.  (on  the  1.  pass  Plds-Llanfair,  Mrs. 
Vickars.  I  t  m.  further,  is  Moel-y-don  Ferry,  with  Llanedwen  on  the 
opposite  side.  2  m,  beyond,  leave  Faenol  on  the  1.)  For  the  remainder 
of  the  road,  see  Bangor,  and  Gwyndy. 

To  Capel  Curig,  22  m. ;  5^  to  Llanddeiniolen  ;  near  this  place  is  an 
ancient  fort  Binas  Binorddwig  ;  7^  Penrhyn  slate  quarries ;  \X\e 

romantic  vale  of  Nant-Francon ;  4^  Llyn  Ogwen ;  Capel  Curig. 
The  usual  route  is  through  Bangor  to  Conwy,  which  is  circuitous. 


EXCURSIONS  MADE  BY  THE  REV.  W.  BINGLEY. 

1.  To  THE  Village  and  Lakes  of  Llanberis,  10  m.  Carriages 
can  proceed  only  to  Cwm-y-clo,  thence  by  a  boat  if  previously  engaged. 
Dolbadarn  Castle ;  cataract  of  Caunant-Mawr  ;  on  the  upper  lake,  a  copper 
mine  ;  opposite  the  village,  Glyder-Vawr  and  Glyder-Bach ;  summit  of 
Snowdon,  4^m.  from  Dolbadarn  Castle.  The  excursion  would  be  more 
complete  from  Llanberis  through  the  astonishing  pass  of  Cwm  Ghis  into 


158  CAERNARVON. 

the  beautiful  vale  of  Nant-Hwynan,  to  Beddgelart^  30  m.  distant^  and 
back  over  Snowdon. 

2.  From  Caernarvon  to  Llanrwst,  returning  by  the  vale  of  Festiniog, 
Tan-y-bwlch,  and  Beddgelart.  By  Llanberis  or  Nant-Francon,  to  Capel- 
curig,  where  is  a  good  inn ;  Dolwyddelan  Castle^  3  m.  out  of  the  road  to 
Llanrwst ;  Rhaiadyr-y-Wenol ;  Pont-y-Pair_,near  Bettws-y-Coed;  Gwydir; 
Llanrwst  bridge  ;  Eagle’s  Inn.  Return  by  Bettws  ;  falls  of  Penmachno  ; 
8  m.  from  Llanrwst_,  to  Penmachno:  8  m.  to  Festiniog;  cataracts  of  the 
Cynfael ;  Tanybwlch  ;  to  Pont  Aberglaslyn^  8  m.,  1-|-  m.  further  is  Beddge¬ 
lart ;  4  m.  to  Llyn-Cywellyn;  2  m.  to* Bettws- Garmon  ;  5  m.  to  Caernarvon. 

3.  Upon  the  Water  to  the  adjacent  parts  of  Anglesea^  and  Priestholme 
island.  A  small  decked  cutter^  to  hold  ten  or  twelve  persons,  may  be  had 
at  the  Hotel ;  charge,  with  two  men,  one  guinea  per  day. 

To  Snowdon.  Those  travellers  who  consult  their  ease  and  safety,  may 
ascend  this  mountain  from  a  cottage  bearing  the  same  name  and  situated 
on  the  1.  of  the  road  from  Caernarvon  to  Beddgelart,  about  3  m.  from  the 
latter  place.  A  steep  down  extends  nearly  to  the  summit,  accessible  to 
Welsh  ponies.  The  more  hardy  pedestrian,  who  would  become  acquainted 
with  the  rugged  features  of  the  sovereign  monarch  of  the  hills,  should 
ascend  his  bold  front  from  a  small  farm-house  in  Cwmdyliy  5  m.  from 
Capel-Curig  ;  which  see. 


AN  EXCURSION  TO  SNOWDON. 

Snowdon,  from  the  Saxon,  meaning  a  snowy  hill  ;  Eryri  is  the  Welsh  ap¬ 
pellation  of  this  mountainous  district,  i.  e.  what  is  precipitated  or  thrown  out 
violently,  in  allusion,  probably,  to  its  geological  formation.  Mr.  Pennant  de¬ 
rives  it  from  a  compound  of  Welsh  words,  as  Creigau’r  Eryra,  Eagle  Rocks. 

The  Snowdonian  range  commences  in  the  tremendous  precipice  of  Pen- 
maenmawr,  and  in  a  s.  w.  direction  takes  in  its  course  Carnedd  Llywelyn, 
the  peak  of  Snowdon,  a  long  tract  of  mountains  to  the  s.  of  Llanllyfni,  and 
terminates  in  the  lofty  and  triple-peaked  Reifel  (Yr  Eifl),  the  base  of 
which  is  washed  by  the  waves  of  Caernarvon  Bay.  The  length  of  this 
range,  by  following  the  zigzag  direction  of  its  summit,  is  40  m.  Upon 
this  range  the  Wyddfa  is  the  highest  eminence,  its  altitude  above  the  sea 
being  3568  feet,  as  measured  by  Mr.  Evans,  author  of  the  9  sheet  map  of 
N.  W ales.  Carnedd  Llywelyn  forms  the  second  in  altitude,  and  is 
3520  ft.  high  from  Caernarvon  Bay,  which  is  298  ft.  higher  than  the  cele¬ 
brated  Skiddaw  of  Cumberland.  What  is  this  in  comparison  of  Mount 
Blanc,  which  rises  15,680  ft.;  the  American  Chimboraco,  20,909  ft.  high, 
which  is  the  greatest  elevation  ever  ascended  by  man.  The  rocks  which 
form  the  higher  part  of  the  chain  are  principally  porphyry,  granite,  and 
granitel  of  Kirwan  ;  the  secondary  rocks  are  chiefly  hornblende,  schiller, 
spar,  loadstone,  rowley  rag,  whinstone,  schistose  mica,  schistose  clay,  mix¬ 
tures  of  quartz,  felspar,  mica,  and  argillaceous  schistus.  On  the  w.  side,  are 
a  number  of  basaltic  columns  on  a  bed  of  hornstone  or  chertz  and  large 
coarse  crystals,  cubic  pyrites,  and  various  mineral  bodies  are  frequently 
found  in  the  fissures.  In  the  schistose  rocks  are  several  slate  quarries  ;  very 
considerable  ones  near  Dolbadarn ;  some  in  Llanddeiniolen ;  others  in 
Llanberis  ;  a  few  in  Llan  Eilgwyn  ;  and  very  large  ones  at  Cilgwyn  in 
Llanlyfni.  The  products  are  brought  to  Caernarvon.  Those  of  the  late  Lady 
Penrhyn  are  at  Dolawen ;  and  there  is  a  large  quarry  of  the  novaculite 
of  Kirwan,  varieties  of  2d  and  3d  of  that  species  near  Cwm  Idwal, 


CAERNARVON. 


159 

where  great  quantities  of  hones  are  cut  and  sent  to  London  and  Dublin. 
Large  siliceous  crystals,  commonly  called  rock  diamonds,  are  frequently 
found  in  the  fissures  of  these  rocks.  Some  specimens  of  cubic  pyrites 
and  crystallised  tin  have  been  discovered.  The  mountains  of  Thibet  are 
said  to  be  25,000  f.  high.  From  Caernarvon  to  Cwm-y-glo-Llanrhug^  distant 
4  m.,  the  road  is  good.  At  this  place  take  a  boat  up  the  lower  Llanberis 
lake,  or  Llyn-Padarn  ;  and  land  upon  the  little  isthmus  between  the  pools. 
Just  below  the  Castle  of  Dolbadarn,  take  a  guide.  The  ascent  this  way, 
says  Mr.  Bingley,  is  so  gradual,  that  a  person  mounted  on  a  Welsh  pony, 
may  ride  nearly  up  to  the  top.  From  the  castle  go  to  the  r.  by  the 
waterfall,  Caunant  Mawr,  the  great  chasm  up  the  mountains  to  a  vale 
called  Cwm-Brwynog.  The  botanist  will  undoubtedly  be  induced  to  deviate 
from  the  immediate  route  to  the  foot  of  Clogwyn-Du  r-Arddu,  to  look  for 
plants  mentioned  by  Llwyd  and  Ray,  as  growing  on  that  rock.  If  the 
pedestrian  choose  to  ascend  Clogwyn  du’r  Arddu,  he  will  then  he  distant 
from  the  summit  not  more  than  1^  m.  But  few  travellers  take  this  route, 
choosing  rather  to  proceed  up  the  vale  of  Cwm  Brwynog,  and  along  the 
ridge  immediately  over  the  vale  of  Llanberis,  till  they  come  within  sight  of 
the  black,  and  almost  perpendicular  rock  before  mentioned,  called  Clog¬ 
wyn- Du’r- Arddu,  with  a  small  lake  at  its  bottom.  This  will  be  left 
about  ^m.  on  his  r.,  and  then  ascending  the  steep  called  Llecliweddy-Re, 
he  must  direct  his  course  s.  w.  to  the  well,  a  place  known  by  the  guides, 
distant  from  the  highest  peak,  called  Tr-  Wyddfa,  ‘‘  the  conspicuous,’'  about 
1  m.  The  summit  of  this  mountain  is  not  more  than  5  or  6  yards  in 
diameter,  round  which  is  a  circular  wall,  of  great  use  to  sit  upon,  to  enjoy 
the  extensive  prospects  around.  The  mountain  from  the  summit,  seems 
propped  by  four  buttresses,  between  which  are  four  deep  cwmyz,  or  hollows  ; 
each,  one  excepted,  have  one  or  more  lakes  lodged  in  its  distant  bottom. 
The  nearest  is  Ffynnon  Ids,  or  the  Green  well,  lying  immediately  below  ; 
the  waters  of  which  from  this  elevation,  appear  black  and  unfathomable, 
and  the  edges  quite  green.  Thence  is  a  succession  of  bottoms,  surrounded 
by  the  most  lofty  and  rugged  hills,  the  greatest  part  of  the  sides  of  which 
are  quite  mural,  forming  a  most  magnificent  amphitheatre.  The  Wyddfa 
is  on  one  side  ;  Crih-y-Distyll,  with  its  serrated  tops,  on  another ;  Crib 
CocJi,  a  ridge  of  fiery  redness,  appears  beneath  the  preceding;  and  op¬ 
posite  to  it  is  the  boundary  called  the  Llecliwedd.  Another  very  singular 
support  is  y  Clawdd  Coch,  rising  into  a  sharp  ridge.  The  view  from  this 
exalted  situation  commands  the  county  of  Chester,  the  high  hills  of 
Yorkshire,  part  of  the  N.  of  England,  Scotland,  aud  Ireland ;  the  isle  of 
Man  and  that  of  Anglesea  on  a  clear  day,  part  of  the  coast,  with  the  hills 
of  Scotland ;  the  high  mountains  of  Inglehorough  and  Penygent  in 
Yorkshire ;  beyond  these  the  eminences  of  Westmoreland  and  Cumberland  ; 
and  on  this  side  some  of  the  hills  of  Lancashire,  \yhen  the  atmosphere  is 
very  transparent,  even  part  of  the  county  of  Wicklow,  and  the  Avhole  of  the 
isle  of  Man,  become  visible.  Mr.  Pennant  took  much  pains  to  see  this 
prospect  to  advantage,  sat  up  at  a  farm-house  on  the  w.  till  about  12, 
and  walked  up  the  whole  way.  The  night,”  says  he,  was  remarkably 
fine  and  starry.  Short  intervals  of  darkness  intervened,  which  was  soon 
dispersed  by  the  dawn  of  day.  The  body  of  the  sun  appearing  most 
distinctly,  with  the  rotundity  of  the  moon  before  it,  arose  high  enough  to 
render  it  too  brilliant  for  our  sight.  The  sea,  which  bounded  the  w.  part, 
was  gilded  by  its  beams  ;  at  first  in  slender  streaks,  but  at  length  it  glowed 
with  redness.  The  prospect  was  disclosed  like  the  gradual  drawing  up  of 
a  curtain  in  a  theatre.  We  saw  more  and  more,  till  the  heat  became  so 


160 


CAERNARVON. 

powerful^  as  to  attract  the  mists  from  the  various  Ia'kes_,  which  in  a  slight 
degree  obscured  the  prospect.  The  shadow  of  the  mountain  was  flung 
many  miles,  and  showed  its  bicapitated  form  ;  the  Wyddfa  making  one, 
Crib-y-Distyll  the  other  head.  I  counted  between  20  and  SO  lakes,  either 
in  this  county  or  Merionethshire.  The  day  proved  so  excessively  hot,  that 
the  journey  cost  me  the  skin  of  the  lower  part  of  my  face.”  On  another 
visit  to  Snowdon,  Mr.  Pennant  gives  the  following  account :  —  A  vast 
mist  enveloped  the  whole  circuit  of  the  mountain.  The  prospect  down  was 
horrible.  It  gave  an  idea  of  numbers  of  abysses,  concealed  by  a  thick 
smoke  furiously  circulating  around  us  j  very  often  a  gust  of  wind  formed 
an  opening  in  the  clouds,  which  gave  a  fine  and  distinct  vista  of  lake  and 
valley.  Sometimes  they  opened  only  in  one  place  ;  at  others  in  many,  at 
once  exhibiting  a  most  strange  and  perplexing  sight  of  water,  fields,  rocks, 
or  chasms  in  50  different  places.  They  then  closed  in  at  once,  and  left  us 
involved  in  darkness ;  shortly  they  would  separate  again,  and  fly  in  wild 
eddies  round  the  middle  of  the  mountains,  and  expose  in  parts,  both  tops 
and  bases,  clear  to  our  view.  We  descended  from  this  varied  scene  with 
great  reluctance  ;  but  before  we  reached  our  horses,  a  thunder-storm  over¬ 
took  us ;  its  rolling  among  the  mountains  was  inexpressibly  awful,  the 
rain  uncommonly  heavy  ;  we  remounted  our  horses,  and  gained  the  bottom 
with  great  hazard.  The  little  rills,  which,  on  our  ascent,  trickled  along 
the  gullies,  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  were  now  swelled  into  torrents ; 
and  we  and  our  steeds  passed  with  the  utmost  risk  of  being  swept  away  by 
these  sudden  waters.  At  length,  we  arrived  safely,  yet  wet  and  weary,  at 
our  quarters.  The  stone  which  composes  this,  and  indeed  the  greatest  part 
of  Snowdonia,  is  excessively  hard.  Large  coarse  crystals  are  often  found 
in  the  fissures,  and  very  frequently  cubic  pyrites,  the  usual  attendants  on 
alpine  tracts.  These  are  also  frequented  by  the  rock  ousel,  a  mountainous 
bird,  and  some  of  the  lakes  are  stocked  with  char  and  gwyniad,  alpine 
fish.” 

The  uncommon  alpine  plants  are  chiefly  to  be  found  on  the  e.  and 
N.  E.,  which  form  the  range  of  rocks  called  Clogwyn-y-Carnedd. 

Near  the  top  of  Snowdon  is  a  spring  of  fine,  clear,  well-tasted  water, 
and  excessively  cold.  When  the  wind  blows  from  the  w.,  Snowdon  is 
almost  always  completely  covered  with  clouds  or  mist.  And  even  when 
the  day  appears  favourable,  it  will  sometimes  suddenly  become  enveloped 
and  remain  in  that  state  for  several  hours.  In  exploring  this  mountain,  it 
is  necessary  to  start  early  in  the  morning,  in  order  to  rest,  and  examine  the 
different  prospects,  to  have  an  experienced  guide,  some  provisions,  and 
liquor,  which  will  bear  dilution. 

A  traveller,  intent  on  ascending  mountains,  should  be  provided  with 
such  nails  as  M.  A.  Pictet  recommends  to  those  who  ascend  the  Glaciers. 
He  observes  that  grass  is  more  slippery  than  ice,  when  the  sole  of  the 
shoe  has  become  smooth  by  walking  over  it and  advises  that  travellers 
provide  themselves  with  strong  shoes,  the  upper-leather  being  exceedingly 
pliable,  so  that  the  foot  be  no  where  hurt.  Nails  also  of  tempered  steel 
must  be  provided,  the  tails  of  which  form  a  screw.  Their  heads  not  less 
than  44  lines  in  diameter,  cut  into  the  form  of  a  square  pyramid,  which 
will  have  two  points  in  consequence  of  the  notch  cut  into  each  for  receiving 
the  screw-driver  to  fix  them  in  the  shoes.  A  number  of  these  nails  should 
be  disposed  at  equal  distances,  as  near  the  edge  of  the  sole  as  possible 
without  endangering  the  bursting  of  the  leather.” 

Bryn-Gwyn,  or  Royal  Court,  in  Anglesea,  is  a  Druidic  remain,  2  m. 
from  the  Menai,  and  1  n.  of  the  road  which  leads  from  Aberraenai  ferry  to 


CAERNARVON. 


16A 


Newborough.  Upon  this  spot  stood  the  court  of  justice  for  civil  and  re¬ 
ligious  purposes.  Here,  too,  was  a  principal  place  of  worship.  The  temple 
was  a  circle  of  upright  stones,  the  diameter  of  which  is  52  yards.  The 
country  people,  supposing  money  was  concealed,  in  their  anxious  search, 
removed  them.  Some  are  scattered  ;  two  stand  about  20  yards  e.  of  the 
circle,  and  are  4  yards  asunder.  One,  which  is  12  feet  by  7^  exclusive 
of  what  remains  in  the  earth,  stands  upright,  and  forms  the  gable 
end  of  the  house  which  occupies  this  place.  The  other,  nearly  the  same 
size,  is  also  erect,  and  forms  a  fence  for  the  garden.  About  400  yards  w. 
is  an  accessible  rock,  called  the  Astronomer  s  Stone,  5  yards  high,  near 
the  Breint  (chief  or  royal  river)  ;  this  is  only  a  brook,  over  which  a  person 
might  step.  About  400  yards  north  of  Bryn  Gwyn  is  Tre  r-Drwr  Bach, 
or  castle  of  the  lesser  Druid.  This  is  now  a  meadow  of  half  an  acre.  The 
spot  is  surrounded  with  a  bank  20  feet  broad  at  the  base,  and  12  high, 
composed  of  stones,  like  those  of  the  carnedd,  and  earth  promiscuously 
mixed.  There  are  no  traces  of  a  foss,  nor  any  remains  of  a  building. 

About  the  same  distance  more  n.  down,  in  a  perfect  swamp,  is  Tre’r 
Dryws,  or  Druid's  Town  ;  but  at  present  without  a  habitation.  An  encamp¬ 
ment  here  is  called  Caer-leb.  The  following  description  of  this  place  is  by 
Mr.  Hutton.  It  consists  of  7  acres,  with  several  intrenchments,  one 
within  another,  all  in  a  square  form,  in  crossing  which  I  first  approached  a 
foss,  4  feet  wide  joining  a  mound  of  the  same  width.  Then  follows  a 
plain  of  17  yards,  which  brought  me  to  a  trench  of  5  yards.  This  my 
servant  skipped  over,  but  I  having  lost  the  activity  of  youth,  skipped  in. 
Then  followed  a  bank  of  the  same  dimensions,  and  both  in  a  bolder  style. 
Immediately  occurred  another  foss  of  7  yards,  and  a  bank  of  the  same  di¬ 
mensions,  both  more  elevated,  which,  for  a  moment,  impeded  our  progress. 
There  is  generally  some  water  in  the  ditches.  The  banks  are  4  feet  high, 
I  now  arrived  at  the  centre,  a  plain  flat  of  one  acre,  rather  elevated,  and 
perfectly  dry.  Upon  this  spot  once  stood  the  Arch  Druid’s  palace,  which 
united  the  powers  of  St.  James’s  and  Lambeth.  Not  the  least  traces  of  any 
building  remain.  Here  we  contemplate,  with  a  sigh,  the  spot  of  the  grand¬ 
est  British  church,  now  a  silent  bog,  impassable,  disregarded,  and  unprofit¬ 
able.  On  the  farther  side  of  the  fortification  is  only  one  bank,  which  is  8 
yards  over,  and  a  ditch  of  10  deep  in  proportion.  At  30  yards’  distance 
from  the  plot  where  the  palace  stood,  is  a  broad  circular  bank,  10  yards  in 
diameter,  which  surrounds  a  hollow  not  more  than  3.  Here  I  found 
myself  surrounded  with  water,  which,  in  endeavouring  to  escape,  I  again 
jumped  in.  I  visited  this  place  Sept.  1.  1800,  when  all  the  trenches  were 
dry.  Tan-hen-y~Cefn  is  the  ruin  of  a  building,  30  yards  long,  and  20 
broad,  which  lies  upon  a  knob  of  earth  of  about  20  yards  above  the  forti¬ 
fication  which  surrounds  the  Druid’s  palace,  called  by  Rowland  and  tra¬ 
dition,  “  The  remainder  of  the  British  houses.”  These  stones  are  the 
only  ruins  on  the  whole  premises,  and  lie  in  confusion.  Having  surveyed 
the  Arch  Druid’s  royal  repository,  I  left  the  place,  and  ascended  the  hill, 
giving  many  a  look  back  at  this  venerable  spot  of  antiquity,  once,  perhaps, 
the  first  in  Great  Britain,  and  arrived  at  the  pleasant  village  of  Bryn  Sian- 
cyn  ;  whence  I  engaged  a  blacksmith,  who  spoke  English,  to  conduct  me 
to  Llannidan.” 

This  vicinity  is  celebrated  as  the  birthplace  of  the  Rev.  Henry  RoAvlands, 
who  was  born  at  Bias  Gwynn,  in  this  parish,  an  estate  purchased  by  his 
ancestor,  Henry  Rowlands,  who  died  bishop  of  Bangor,  a.d.  16i6  j  and 
it  still  remains  the  patrimony  of  the  family.  He  was  educated  at  Oxford, 
took  orders,  and  was  instituted  to  the  vicarage  of  Llannidan,  with  the  an- 


M 


162 


CAERPHILLY. 


nexed  chapels^  in  October_,  I69O;  died  in  1723,  and  was  interredin  the  s. 
part  of  this  church,  under  a  black  slab  of  Anglesea  marble,  upon  which  is 
the  following  inscription  written  by  himself.  S.  Depositum  Henrici 

Rowlands  de  Plas  Gwyn,  Clerici,  Hujus  Ecclesiae  Vicarii ;  qui  hinc  cum 
hisce  Exuviis  per  spiritum  Jesu,  animam  interea  refocillantem  in  ultimo  die 
se  fore  resuscitatum  pia  fide  sperabat ;  ac  inde,  triumphante  misericordio  in 
eternum  cum  Christo  gaudium.  Fore  susceptum,  quod  maxime  anhe- 
labat ;  id  est  esse  semper  cum  Domino.  Obiit,  21  die  Novembris,  anno 
salutis  1723,  setatis  suae  68.  Spiritus  ubi  A^ult  spirat.  Laus  tota  Triuni. 
Omnia  pro  nihilo  nisi  quae  tribuebat  egenis,  ista  valent  cum  artes  pereant  et 
scripta  fatiscant.”  Flis  account,”  says  Mr.  Pennant,  of  the  Druidical 
antiquities  of  this  part  of  the  island,  and  his  comments  on  them,  is  a  most 
extraordinary  performance.  His  principal  work,  exclusive  of  some  unpub¬ 
lished  manuscripts,  is  the  Mona  Anti  qua  Restorata,  or  an  Archaiological 
Discourse  on  the  Antiquities,  natural  and  historical,  of  the  Isle  of  Anglesea.” 


To  Dolbadarn  Castle,  on  the  commencement  of 
an  excursion  into  Snowdonia,  8  miles.  Evans. 
Bangor,  9 miles.  Evans;  Gilpin. 

Llanllyfni,  7  miles.  Warner’s  2d  Walk. 
Newborough,  5  miles  ;  thence  to  Llannidan, 
6  miles.  Pennant. 

Beddgelart,  13  miles.  Bingley  ;  Pugh. 
Pwllheli,  20  miles. 


To  Llanerchymedd,  21  miles.  Aikin. 
Llanddeiniolen,  6  miles. 

Clynog,  10  miles.  Hutton. 

Penmynydd,  by  way  of  Bryn-Gwyn,  2  miles. 
Llannidan,  1  mile.  Llanedwan,  2  miles. 
Plas  Newydd, Smiles.  Penmynydd, Smiles. 
Hutton. 


CAERPHILLY. 

From  Cardiff,  7|  miles.  Malkin  ;  Manby.  From  Llantrisaint,  12  miles.  Barber,  by  way  of 

Merthyr  Tydvil,  18  miles.  Evans  ;  Skrine.  Pont-y-Prydd. 

Newport,  Mon.,  12:|  miles.  Wyndham  ; 

Warner.  i 

CAERPHILLY,  or  Senghenydd,  in  the  cwmwd  of  Senghenydd  (from 
Cenydd,  a  saint  of  the  sixth  century),  cantref  of  Brenhind  (now  called  the 
hundred  of  Caerphilly),  in  Glamorganshire,  is  a  neat,  small,  irregular  town, 
containing  in  1821,  8QQ,  and  in  1831,  882  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  one  of  the  hills  which  separates  it  from  the  vale  of  Cardiff,  and 
is  surrounded  by  bleak  and  barren  mountains.  The  chief  support  of  the 
inhabitants  arises  from  the  manufacture  of  woollen  shawls,  flannels,  &c., 
which  employs  two  dye-houses.  The  market  is  on  Thursday.  The  fairs 
are  on  the  5th  of  April,  Trinity  Thursday,  July  I9.,  Aug.  25.,  Oct.  9.,  and 
Nov.  16.  The  Castle  occupies  the  centre  of  a  small  plain,  and  presents  the 
idea  of  a  dilapidated  town.  It  is  by  far  the  largest  ruin  in  Britain.  The  high 
outer  rampart,  with  its  massive  abutments  and  frequent  towers,  still  in  a 
great  measure  entire,  conveys  at  once  a  clear  impression  of  the  great  extent 
of  the  fortress.  This  stupendous  remain  has  been  well  described  by  Barber, 
as  follows: — We  passed  the  Barbican,  now  built  up  into  habitations; 
and,  proceeding  between  two  dilapidated  towers,  entered  the  great  area  of 
the  castle.  A  range  of  building,  beneath  the  rampart  on  our  r.,  once  formed 
the  barracks  of  the  garrison.  W e  then  advanced  to  that  pile  of  superior 
building,  i.  e.  of  citadel,  hall,  chapel,  state  and  other  apartments,  which  is 
generally  considered  as  the  castle,  in  distinction  from  the  encircling  area  and 
its  wall.  Clambering  over  the  fragments  of  another  drawbridge  and  its 
defending  towers,  we  entered  the  first  court,  which  appears  to  have  com¬ 
prised  the  citadel.  Thence  we  passed  through  a  large  gateway,  with  several 
grooves  for  portcullises,  to  the  principal  court  of  the  castle.  The  area  of 


CAERPHILLY. 


163 


this  court  is  70  yards  by  40.  On  the  s.  side  is  that  princely  apartment,  by 
some  considered  the  hail,  and  by  others  the  chapel.  But  whichever  it  may 
have  been,  vestiges  of  much  original  beauty  appear  in  the  elegant  outline  of 
its  four  large  windows  ;  the  grand  proportions  of  the  chimney-piece,  and 
the  light  triplet  pillars,  with  arches,  which  go  round  the  room.  The  appear¬ 
ance  of  mortice-holes  in  the  walls,  for  the  ends  of  beams,  at  the  height  of 
about  the  middle  of  the  windows,  led  Camden  to  suppose  that  the  ceiling 
was  projected  thence,  and  that  an  apartment  above  was  lighted  by  the  upper 
portion  of  the  windows ;  but  surely  at  a  time  when  symmetry  in  building 
was  so  well  cultivated,  and  where  it  appears  to  have  been  so  successfully 
applied,  such  a  ridiculous  contrivance  could  not  have  taken  place :  more 
probably  from  those  mortices  a  support  was  derived  for  a  lofty  arched  roof, 
or  a  gallery.  The  external  staircase-entrance  to  the  hall  spoken  of  by  Cam¬ 
den,— the  roof  whereof  is  vaulted  and  supported  by  twenty  arches,” — is  now 
rendered  nearly  impassable  by  rubbish.  Eastward  of  the  hall  is  a  leaning 
tower.  This  bulky  fragment  of  the  ruin  is  between  70  and  80  ft,  in  height, 
and  of  a  prodigious  thickness.  It  inclines  nearly  11  ft.  from  the  perpen¬ 
dicular,  and  is  only  held  together  by  the  strength  of  its  cement.  It  has 
stood  in  this  position  for  many  centuries.  The  cause  must  have  arisen 
from  a  local  failure  in  the  foundation,  or  from  the  perforation  of  a  mine. 
A  remarkable  effect  is  said  to  be  produced  by  laying  flat  upon  the  back, 
close  to  the  base,  on  looking  up.  There  is  a  similar  tower  at  Pisa  180  ft. 
high,  and  14ft.  from  the  perpendicular;  it  is  constructed  of  marble,  and 
contains  eight  stories.  Near  this  part  of  the  ruin  a  place  is  shown,  called 
the  Mint,  with  the  remains  of  two  furnaces  for  melting  metal.  Others  say, 
that  when  Edward  II.  was  besieged  here,  the  furnace  was  for  smelting  iron, 
which  was  cast  upon  the  besiegers,  and  the  tower  was  rent  in  two  by  an 
explosion  caused  by  throwing  water  upon  it.  From  this  chamber  we 
ascended  a  spiral  staircase  to  the  corridor,  still  in  very  good  preservation  ; 
which,  lighted  by  small  windows,  and  passing  round  the  principal  court, 
formed  a  communication  with  the  different  apartments.  The  external  view 
of  the  w.  entrance  of  the  ruin,  with  its  ponderous  circular  towers  venerably 
shaded  with  ivy,  is  remarkably  striking  ;  and  with  the  remains  of  its  draw¬ 
bridge  and  defending  outwork,  may  be  considered  as  the  most  entire  part  of 
the  ruin.  An  artificial  mound  at  some  distance,  but  within  the  works 
of  the  castle,  was  most  likely  used  for  exploratory  purposes.  From  the 
general  plan  of  this  castle,  there  being  no  direct  evidence  to  the  contrary, 
its  foundation  has  been  attributed  to  the  Romans  ;  hut  it  sufficiently  appears, 
that  no  considerable  part  of  the  present  fortress  was  built  by  them,  as  the 
predatory  army  of  Rhys  Fycan  took  and  razed  Caerphilly  Castle  in  1221. 
The  Hon.  Daines  Barrington  attributes  the  present  erection  to  Edward  1. 
Sir  Richard  Hoare  thinks  it  was  built  by  the  Clare  family,  and  was  af¬ 
terwards  enlarged  and  fitted  up  in  the  magnificent  style  now  portrayed  to  us 
by  the  family  of  Despencer.  See  this  opinion  elaborately  supported  in 
his  splendid  edition  of  Giraldus,  vol.  ii.  p.  371j,  &c.  The  first  mention  of 
this  castle  in  the  Welsh  Chronicle  is  in  the  year  121.5.  In  1217  it  was 
committed  by  Reginald  de  Braose  to  the  custody  of  Rhys  Fychan,  who 
levelled  it  to  the  ground.  Between  the  years  1221  and  1223  it  was 
again  fortified,  with  the  consent  of  Prince  Llywelyn,  by  John  de  Braose. 
In  1400  Owen  Glyiidwr  had  possession  of  it.  (See  also  conjectures  on  the 
origin  of  this  castle  in  Malkin,  vol.  i.  p.  231  —  244.) 

Caerphilly  has  lately  increased  from  an  obscure  village  to  a  well-built 
little  town ;  and  the  respectable  appearance  of  its  two  inns  may,  in  a  great 
measure,  be  dated  from  the  great  increase  of  the  visitants  to  the  castle. 

M  2 


164  CAERPHILLY. 

These  are  the  Boar’s  Head^  and  Castle ;  but  no  means  of  conveyance  can  be 
obtained  here. 

Mr.  Wyndham  remarks  that  there  is  a  striking  transition  in  the  language 
of  Caerphilly^  when  compared  with  that  of  Monmouth_,  only  30  m.  dis¬ 
tant.  The  buildings,  manners,  dress,  and  language  of  the  former  are 
strictly  Welsh  ;  but  he  adds,  the  Welsh  language  is  sensibly  declining  in 
every  place  where  the  connection  with  England  is  easy  ;  and  possibly,  within 
a  century,  a  traveller  may  meet  with  as  much  difficulty  in  his  researches 
after  the  remains  of  the  Welsh  language  along  the  coasts  and  marches  of 
Wales,  as  Mr.  Barrington  did  in  his  tour  through  Cornwall,  in  pursuit  of 
the  Cornish,  where  he  found  but  one  old  woman,  nearly  ninety  years  of  age, 
who  could  speak  it,  and  but  two  other  aged  females  who  could  understand 
her.  About  1  m.  to  the  s.e.  of  Caerphilly  is  Parc-y-Fan,  an  ancient  house 
in  a  ruinous  state,  formerly  a  seat  of  the  Lewises,  ancestors  of  the  Earl  of 
Plymouth. 

On  the  road  to  Cardiff  occurs  Tho7mhill,  an  elevation  uncommonly 
grand. 

The  wide  plain  of  Cardiff  affords,  for  many  miles,  gratifying  prospects 
of  various  cultivation,  and  several  villages,  the  glaring  whitened  walls  of 
which  abruptly  break  through  their  surrounding  foliage.  The  russet  hue  of 
an  extensive  warren  varies  the  scenery.  At  the  termination  of  this  tract  the 
expansive  Severn  is  descried,  in  which  the  two  islands  of  the  steep  andy?a^ 
Holmes  are  presented.  Far  distant,  the  bold  hills  of  Somersetshire  form 
the  background.  Descending  from  the  higher  grounds,  which  command 
the  scenery  just  mentioned,  a  good  road  leads  to  Cardiff'.  The  episcopal 
ruins  of  Llandaff  may  be  seen  at  a  short  distance  on  the  r. 

There  is  a  good  road  to  Pont-y-Prydd,  but  in  order  to  gain  it,  a  large 
part  of  the  way  to  Cardiff  must  be  passed.  Mr.  Wyndham  therefore  en¬ 
gaged  a  guide  to  conduct  him  over  the  mountain  of  Eglwysilan.  He  found 
the  prospects  thence  very  extensive,  but  the  descent  to  the  bridge  was  dis¬ 
agreeable. 

To  Pont- Y- Pool,  the  road  lies  over  a  wild  and  uninteresting  track. 

The  road  to  Merthyr  Tydvil  winds  through  Cwm  Ysti'ad,  but  Mr. 
Malkin  chose  the  road  over  Mynydd  Eglwysilan,  which  is  a  horse-path, 
Energlyn,  ^m,  the  seat  of  John  Goodrich,  Esq.,  is  handsomely  and  well  laid 
out,  with  woods  at  the  back  and  sides.  The  aspect  to  the  s.e.  commands 
a  striking  view  of  the  plain,  closed  in  by  mountains,  with  the  august  castle 
of  Caerphilly  under  the  eye.  Beyond  a  farm-house,  upon  the  flat  top  of  the 
mountain,  you  have  Ystrad  vale  to  the  r.,  while  that  of  the  Taff  appears  on 
the  1.  This  district  is  wild,  intermingled  with  occasional  cultivation  and 
beauty.  The  undulating  line  of  brushwood  in  the  valley,  which  overhangs 
the  Romney ;  the  mansion  of  Llanhradach;  the  cottages  of  the  chapehy  of 
Llanfahon  below  the  mountain  on  one  side,  Cefn  Hengoed  on  the  other ;  the 
well- wooded  grounds  about  Gelligaer  in  front,  terminating  by  the  of 

Monuchdeny ,  called  the  Breconshire  Beacons,  forming  part  of  the  chain  from 
Llandeilo-fawr  to  Crickhowel,  may  be  instanced.  In  a  field  near  Llanbra- 
dach  House  is  a  spring  of  such  peculiar  purity  that  the  water  parts  with  no 
sediment  when  boiled.  The  inhabitants  say  it  possesses  solvent  properties. 
Upon  Cefn  Gelligaer,  in  the  way  from  Caerphilly  to  Marchnad-y-\vayn,  Mr. 
Lloyd  observed  a  remarkable  monument,  called  Maen  Mr,  a  rude  squarish 
stone  pillar  about  8  ft.  high,  rather  inclining.  On  the  side  of  inclination, 
is  a  small  entrenchment  inclosing  about  6  yards,  and  in  the  centre  a  square 
area.  He  reads  the  inscription  Trefoiti  or  Deffroiti,  answering  to  Dyvrod,  in 
Latin  Uubrotus,  or  perhaps  Dubritius,  and  supposes  it  a  funereal  monument. 


CAERPHILLY. 


165 


{^GougJis  Camden^  iii.  127*)  About  2  m.  from  Caerphilly,  in  this  direction, 
are  several  tumuli,  in  which  have  been  found  burnt  bones.  Descending  the 
mountain,  the  road  to  the  1.  lies  in  the  vale  near  Gelligaer,  remarkable  from 
the  battle  which  was  fought  after  Fitzhammon’s  conquest.  At  the  canal 
aqueduct  an  iron  railway  ends,  its  length  being  10  m.  There  are  here  no 
less  than  eighteen  locks  on  the  canal  in  the  space  of  1  m.  Returning  over 
the  aqueduct  in  Cwm  Cynon,  the  r.  bank  of  that  river  leads  to  the  village  of 
Abe7'dare,  remarkable  for  its  salmon,  sewin,  and  trout.  A  canal  from  this 
place  joins  that  of  Cardiff.  This  vale  is  equally  secluded,  but  less  wild  than 
Ystradyfodwg.  About  2  m.  from  the  aqueduct  there  is,  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  Cynon,  a  most  luxuriant  and  majestic  grove  of  oaks  ;  beyond  is  a  pic¬ 
turesque  hollow  path,  overshaded  with  lofty  trees.  The  road  then  runs 
beside  the  Cynon,  the  bed  of  which  is  shallow.  Near  this  place  is  an  alpine 
bridge.  The  valley  then  opens,  the  track  taking  a  higher  level  on  the  moun¬ 
tain’s  side.  But  3  m.  short  of  the  village  is  a  confined,  yet  most  engagingly 
romantic  and  beautiful,  view.  It  consists  of  three  meadows,  surrounded 
by  groves  of  oaks  and  firs,  which  completely  shut  out  the  world.  It  is 
worth  while  to  climb  a  hill  close  by,  for  the  sake  of  viewing  the  country 
down  the  Tafl‘.  In  these  wild  districts  the  face  of  nature  is  enchanting,  but 
the  state  of  accommodation  is  miserably  poor.  The  diet  of  the  peasants 
upon  the  hills  consists  of  oatmeal  bread,  with  a  relish  of  miserable  cheese, 
and  their  beer  is  worse  than  none.  Their  butter  and  milk  are  better.  Not¬ 
withstanding  these  limitations  they  are  cheerful,  affable,  and  contented. 

I  did  not  visit,”  says  Mr.  Malkin,  “  either  the  works  of  Aberdare  or  the 
Hirwaun  Iron  Works,  at  4  m.  to  the  n.,  whose  columns  of  smoke,  rising 
from  its  station  at  the  black  and  barren  extremity  of  this  alpine  vale,  obscure 
and  stifle  those  rural  images  produced  on  the  imagination  by  the  sportive 
creations  of  nature :  such  arrangements  are  every  where  similar,  and, 
as  I  had  to  see  the  most  extensive  and  perfect  at  Merthyr  Tydvil,  I 
was  glad  to  escape  from  the  confusion  of  anvils,  the  blast  of  furnaces,  and 
the  whirl  of  wheels.”  The  church  of  Aberdare  is  a  lowly  and  tasteless 
appendage.  The  act  for  cutting  the  canal  from  the  village  was  obtained 
33  Geo.  III.,  and  joins  the  Glamorganshire  canal  at  the  fork,  made  by  the 
junction  of  the  little  river  Cynon  with  the  river  Taff.  It  passes  through 
a  beautiful  country,  parallel  with  the  river  Cynon,  to  Aberdare,  being  an 
extent  of  7^  m. ;  the  first  part  is  level,  but  3  m.  towards  Aberdare  it  has  a 
rise  of  41  ft.  The  railway  from  thence,  which  crosses  the  Cynon  near 
the  village,  and  joins  the  Neath  canal  at  Abernant,  is  in  length  8  3  m.  The 
road  to  Merthyr  Tydvil  lies  across  the  mountain,  which  separates  it  from 
Aberdare,  passing  by  the  Hirwaun  Iron  Works.  From  the  summit,  which 
is  a  rugged  and  toilsome  ascent,  the  town  of  Merthyr  Tydvil  is  stretched 
under  the  eye.  The  vale  is  of  considerable  width,  with  a  sprinkling  of 
successful  cultivation  ;  the  mountains  are  bleak,  barren,  and  devoid  of  wood ; 
overspread  with  the  habitations  of  masters,  agents,  engineers,  and  workmen, 
fixed  in  the  teeth  of  abundant  obstacles.  It  is  seldom  that  so  populous  a 
district  and  so  bare  a  soil  are  found  together. 

“  In  the  vale  of  Cwmdare,  near  the  village  of  Aberdare,  Glamorganshire,” 
says  a  correspondent  of  the  AthencBum,  there  is  a  Waterfall,  which  has, 
latterly,  become  an  object  of  peculiar  interest,  in  consequence  of  a  pheno¬ 
menon  hitherto  unnoticed,  and  probably  altogether  new  in  character.  It 
consists  of  an  extraordinary  exhalation  of  gas,  spontaneously  issuing  from 
the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  which,  being  ignited,  continues  to  burn  without 
intermission,  with  a  yellow-coloured  flame,  interspersed  with  streams  of  vivid 
white,  orange,  purple,  and  blue.  There  are  more  than  twelve  apertures 

M  3 


l66 


CAERWENT. 


through  which  the  gas  escapes  beneath  the  water  (causing  it  to  rise  and 
bubble)_,  others  on  the  dry  banks^  which  increase  daily  in  size.  One  of  the 
apertures  is  considerably  larger  than  the  rest^  the  flame  from  which  burns 
about  2  ft.  in  lengthy  and  in  width  ;  at  times  it  burns  considerably  larger. 
The  soil  consists  chiefly  of  argillaceous  schist,  or  fire  clay,  sufficiently  hot 
to  burn  the  hand.  Fish  caught  in  the  stream  have  been  boiled  upon  it ; 
and  the  friends  who  accompanied  me  to  the  spot  prepared  a  good  supper  of 
broiled  bacon  for  ourselves  and  the  spectators.  My  first  impression  was, 
that  this  phenomenon  was  occasioned  by  an  escape  of  carburetted  hydrogen 
from  a  coal  level,  but,  from  its  distance  from  a  mine,  and  the  occasional 
appearances  in  the  flame,  I  do  not  think  the  idea  can  be  correct:  most  pro¬ 
bably  it  is  a  mixture  of  gases.  The  water  has  been  observed  to  bubble  for 
many  years,  by  the  peasantry,  but  not  to  any  extent  until  within  the  last 
two  months,  when  the  attention  of  a  Staffordshire  miner  was  attracted  by 
the  noise  and  height  of  the  bubbles,  and  subsequently  by  the  application  of 
a  fire.  I  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  this  wonderful  appearance  by 
night,  and  regret  my  inadequacy  to  describe  a  sight  so  interesting.  There 
were  not  less  than  twelve  large  bodies  of  brilliant  flame,  of  great  illuminat¬ 
ing  power,  issuing  from  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  underneath  the  rock 
which  forms  the  waterfall ;  the  rich  glare  of  variegated  light  cast  upon  the 
trees  and  surrounding  objects,  the  noise  of  the  waterfall  of  the  stream,  and 
the  reflection  of  the  whole  in  the  water,  afforded  one  of  the  most  imposing 
sights  I  ever  beheld.  I  collected  two  quart  bottles  of  the  gas,  and  have 
given  them,  for  analysis,  to  my  friend  Mr.  Maugham,  of  the  Gallery  of 
Practical  Science,  Adelaide  Street,  who  will  furnish  you  with  a  paper  on 
the  results.  I  may  add,  for  the  information  of  your  readers  who  may 
happen  to  visit  the  spot,  that  it  is  situate  near  Thiwain  (Hirwaun)  Common, 
celebrated  as  the  scene  of  a  battle,  fought  in  the  reign  of  William  Rufus, 
between  the  forces  of  Rhys  ap  Tewdwr,  Prince  of  South  Wales,  and  those 
of  Jestyn  ap  Gwrgan,  aided  by  a  body  of  Norman  adventurers,  under  the 
command  of  Robert  Fitzhammon.’^ 

Eastward,  nearly  parallel  to  the  course  of  the  Rumney,  from  its  source, 
which  is  about  18  m.  from  Caerphilly,  a  road  leads  through  Pwll-y-Pant, 
Gelligare,  &c.,  to  Merthyr  Tydvil.  Pont-y-Pandy,  on  the  w.,  is  the 
seat  of  Nicholas  Price,  Esq.  A  nearer,  but  less  interesting,  ride  from 
Caerphilly  to  Merthyr  Tydvil  is  by  Energlyny  the  Black  Rock,”  Quakers 
Yard,  &c.  Near  Bassaleg  there  is  likewise  a  road  leading  to  Ruperra,  and 
the  adjacent  hills. 

There  is  an  easy  bye-road  of  8  m.,  passable  by  carriages,  to  the  Bridg¬ 
water  Arms,  near  Newbridge. 


To  Cardiff, 71  miles.  Barber  ;  Warner;  Manbj'. 
Merthyr  Tydvil,  by  Nant  Garw,  19  miles. 
Malkin.. 

Pont-y.Pool,  16  miles.  Skrine. 


To  Pont  y-Prydd,  by  Nant  Garw,  over  the  moun¬ 
tains,  7  miles. 

Nant  Garw,  2^  miles. 

Pont-y-Pool,  through  Newport,  22  miles. 


CAERWENT. 


From  Ragland,  13  miles.  Barber. 

Penhow  Castle,  3^  miles.  Barber. 

New  Passage  Inn,  4f  miles.  Coxe  ;  War¬ 
ner’s  2d  Walk  ;  J.  W.  Manby. 


From  Caldccot  Castle,  2  miles.  Donovan;  Evans; 
Wyndham  ;  Skrine  ;  Warner. 

Din  ham,  24  miles. 

Chepstow,  5|  miles. 


CAERWENT,  or  Caergwent,  the  city  of  Gwentland,  the  Venta  Silu~ 
rum  of  the  Romans,  once  garrisoned  by  the  second  Augustine  legion,  now 
an  inconsiderable  village  in  Monmouthshire,  occupies  a  gently  inclining  plane 


CAERWENT. 


16*7 

in  a  low  situation.  It  is  still  partially  environed  with  the  original  Roman 
walls.  From  these,  and  the  remains  of  others,  the  form  of  this  ancient 
city  may  be  traced.  These  fortifications  form  an  oblong  parallelogram 
similar  to  that  of  Caerleon,  the  dimensions  of  which  are  505  yards  by  890, 
having  the  corners  a  little  rounded ;  a  figure  frequent  in  Roman  military 
works,  called  tertiata  castra.  All  the  sides,  except  the  s.,  were  defended  by 
a  deep  foss.  The  height  of  the  walls  appear  to  have  been  from  12  to  24 
feet.  The  thickness  at  bottom  is  12  ft.,  at  the  top  not  less  than  9  ft.  The 
facings  were  formed  of  squared  limestone,  but  most  of  them  have  been 
taken  away  ;  the  interior  is  composed  of  pebbles  and  rough  stones,  imbedded 
in  strong  cement  called  grout- work.  The  southern  wall  is  nearly  entire, 
and  includes  three  pentagonal  stone  bastions,  each  displaying  five  faces  of 
an  octangular  tower.  The  western  wall  is  nearly  20  ft.  high,  in  good  pre¬ 
servation.  A  fragment  of  the  wall,  nearly  20  ft.  in  length  and  12  ft.  high, 
has  fallen  unshattered  near  the  southern  angle.  Some  authors  have  con¬ 
sidered  the  angular  bastions  as  decisively  in  favour  of  a  Norman  origin, 
while  others  have  maintained  that  the  semicircular  bastions  originate  in  the 
Saxon  era.  Some  have  conjectured  that  the  building  of  the  town  took  place 
under  the  lower  Roman  empire,  as  flanking  projections,  they  say,  were  not 
in  use  before  that  period.  Mr.  Barber  thinks  it  just  to  suppose  that  those 
which  are  observable  at  Caerwent  were  added  after  the  general  embattle- 
ment.  Where  the  facings  of  the  walls  have  been  removed,  the  peculiarity 
of  Roman  masonry  is  sufficiently  obvious  :  the  zigzag,  or  herring-back 
form  is  observable  ;  and  were  there  no  other  vestiges  as  a  clue  of  inquiry, 
this  mode  of  building  would  almost  lead  to  a  decision.  The  Church,  with 
its  high  embattled  tower,  is  a  conspicuous  object  from  the  adjacent  parts. 
It  consists  of  a  tower,  a  nave,  and  a  chancel ;  and  had  once  two  aisles. 
The  view  from  the  cemetery  is  agreeable.  Numerous  remains  of  the  Romans 
have  been  discovered  here,  consisting  of  coins,  fragments  of  columns,  statues, 
sepulchral  stones,  and  tesselated  pavements.  Mr.  Strange  has  given  an  ac¬ 
count  in  his  Archaiologia,  vol.  v.  p.  58.,  accompanied  with  an  engraving  of 
a  curious  pavement  which  he  discovered  within  the  walls.  This  has  since 
been  destroyed.  A  tesselated  or  Mosaic  pavement,  formerly  much  admired, 
was  discovered  behind  a  farm-house.  It  is  214^  ft.  in  length,  and  18  ft.  in 
breadth.  The  pieces  of  which  the  pavement  is  composed  are  nearly  square, 
and  about  the  size  of  a  common  die.  These  are  of  various  colours,  blue, 
white,  yellow,  and  red  ;  the  first  and  second  are  of  stone,  and  the  yellow 
and  red  of  terra  cotta.  It  was  probably  the  floor  of  the  Praetorium.  Mr. 
Wyndham  examined  this  pavement  about  the  year  1768,  and  says,  the 
whole  composition  is  so  elegant  and  well  executed,  that  1  think  it  has  not 
been  surpassed  by  any  Mosaic  pavement  which  has  been  discovered  on  this, 
or  even  the  other  side  the  Alps.  In  my  opinion,  it  is  equal  to  those  beautiful 
pavements  which  are  preserved  in  the  palace  of  the  King  of  Naples  at 
Portici.  I  am  strongly  inclined  to  think  that  it  is  of  the  same  age  of 
Agricola.”  In  the  year  1777^  Mr.  Wyndham  again  examined  this  pave¬ 
ment,  and  says,  The  original  level  was  perfectly  preserved  ;  it  had  a 
border  edged  with  the  Greek  scroll  and  fret,  and  scarcely  a  stone  was  miss¬ 
ing.”  On  the  discovery  of  this  pavement,  a  building  was  erected  to  shelter  it 
from  the  weather,  by  order  of  the  then  proprietor,  Mr.  Lewis,  of  St.  Pierre. 
Afterwards,  an  occupier  wanting  a  roof  to  his  brewhouse,  took  the  liberty  of 
removing  that  which  covered  the  pavement ;  in  consequence  of  which 
depredation,  this  curiosity  became  so  broken  up,  that  a  small  portion  only 
of  the  tesseree  remains,  and  those  so  overgrown  with  grass  as  scarcely 

M  4 


168 


CAERWENT. 


to  be  distinguished.  Mr,  Lewis  of  St.  Pierre  is  no  more ;  what  motive 
actuated  his  successor  has  not  been  ascertained. 

In  the  grounds  formerly  belonging  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Williams_,  were  dis¬ 
covered,  under  a  superficial  crust  of  earth,  another  tesselated  pavement. 
At  the  distance  of  a  few  yards,  the  fragment  of  a  noble  capital,  and  shaft 
of  a  pillar,  seem  to  indicate  the  remains  of  a  Roman  temple  or  other  majestic 
edifice.  The  portion  of  the  pillar  shaft,  a  massive  fragment,  ornamented 
with  foliations,  became  one  of  the  supporters  of  a  wheat  stack. 

At  Caerwent,  Mr.  Barber  projected  an  excursion,  comprising  the  six 
castles  mentioned  by  the  author  of  Secret  Memoirs  of  Monmouthshire,” 
as  surrounding  the  Forest  of  Wentwood,  namely,  Dinham,  Penhow,  Pencoed, 
Lanvasches,  Llanvair,  and  Castrogy,  or  Striguil.  This  forest,  or  rather 
Chase,  was  formerly  of  great  extent;  it  now  includes  nearly  2170  acres  of 
land,  thickly  covered  with  timber-trees  and  underwood.  A  house  called 
the  Lodge,  and  a  few  cottages,  are  the  only  erections  within  this  district. 
It  is  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  and  was  long  contended  for  by 
his  grace’s  predecessors.  In  Roger’s  Secret  Memoirs,”  is  a  circumstantial 
account  of  this  litigation.  A  bridle-road,  extending  to  Shire  Newton,  con¬ 
ducts  the  traveller  to  Dinham. 

To  Penhow  Castle,  pursue  the  Newport  road  to  the  Rock  and  Fountain 
Inn,  3  m.  The  castle  stands  upon  a  hill  nearly  opposite.  The  church  is 
placed  contiguous,  and  a  neat  dwelling-house  has  been  newly  erected  by  the 
Rev.  L.  Howett.  Mr.  Cox  rode  over  some  corn  fields,  by  the  side  of  the 
E.  wall  to  Dinham  ;  but  finding  nothing  in  this  excursion  that  was  inter¬ 
esting,  he  returned  to  Caerwent,  and  proceeded  to  Penhow  Castle  upon  the 
turnpike-road  leading  to  Newport  over  the  Nedern  Brook,  which  rises  near 
Striguil  Castle,  2^  m.  to  the  r.  upon  the  borders  of  Wentwood.  Vestiges 
of  the  Via  Julia  are  discernable  on  this  route,  in  several  places,  especially 
at  the  10th  milestone  from  Newport,  and  in  a  field  close  to  the  road,  near  the 
Five  Lanes.  The  adjoining  fields  contain  an  abundance  of  most  luxuriant 
cherry-trees.  Near  Penhow  Castle  is  the  quiet  and  comfortable  Rock  and 
Fountain  Inn,  whence  Mr.  Cox  made  several  excursions.  Opposite,  on 
r.  is  the  village  and  Castle  of  Llanfair,  situated  at  the  foot  of  Pencamawr 
hills.  The  road  leading  from  the  New  Passage  through  Caerwent  to  Usk, 
through  the  village,  is  the  only  route  passable  for  carriages,  over  the  elevated 
ridge  of  hills,  which  separates  the  vale  of  Usk  from  the  Caldecot  Level. 

Pencoed  Castle,  and  Manor  House,  are  ruins  situated  on  the  extreme 
boundary  of  that  hilly  tract  bordering  Caldecot  Level,  in  Monmouthshire, 
over  which,  and  the  Bristol  Channel,  it  commands  a  comprehensive  view. 
Of  the  castle  very  inconsiderable  vestiges  appear  :  they  are  comprehended 
in  a  gateway  with  a  circular  arch  and  two  small  pentagonal  turrets,  a 
round  embattled  tower,  and  some  dilapidated  walls  ;  being  decorated  with 
a  profusion  of  verdure,  the  ruin,  though  small,  is  picturesque  and  pleasing. 
The  architecture  of  these  fragments,  says  Mr.  Barber,  is  of  a  more  distant 
date  than  most  of  the  small  castles  in  Monmouthshire,  and  may  be  considered 
coeval  with  the  first  establishment  of  the  Normans  in  Gwent,  i.  e.  Mon¬ 
mouthshire.  The  mansion,  occupying  the  site  of  the  baronial  fortress,  built 
with  its  materials  and  engrafted  on  its  foundation,  is  of  an  architectural 
date  between  Henry  VIII. ’s  reign  and  that  of  Elizabeth.  This  neglected 
edifice  is  now  partly  occupied  as  a  farm-house  ;  but  indications  of  its  former 
importance  appear  in  the  grand  dimensions  of  the  apartments,  and  the  great 
general  extent  of  the  structure.  It  was  the  property  of  Captain  Matthews  of 
LlandafF.  On  regaining  the  high  road,  Perihoui  Castle  soon  appears  on  an 
eminence  above  a  wild  valley. 


CAERWENT. 


169 

After  visiting  this  place^  Mr.  Manby  returned  to  the  road,  and  on  his  way 
to  Christchurch  deviated  2  m.  to  the  1.  to  visit  IJanwern,  an  elegant  man¬ 
sion,  seated  on  an  eminence  and  decorated  with  all  the  appendages  which 
denote  a  residence  of  distinction,  and  render  it  an  interesting  and  pleasing 
object.  It  was  built  in  I76O  by  Charles  Vanne,  Esq.,  father  to  the  wife  of 
the  late  R.  Salusbury,  Esq.,  whose  eldest  son,  now  Sir  Thomas  R.  Salushury, 
Bart.,  is  the  present  possessor.  Pencoed  has  been  considered,  but  without 
the  smallest  reason,  the  most  ancient  of  the  six  agrarian  fortresses  mentioned 
by  the  author  of  the  “  Secret  Memoirs.” 

The  road  to  Caldecot  Castle  lies  s.s.  e.  of  Caerwent  1-^  m.  across  some 
productive  fields,  the  soil  a  rich  sandy  loam,  varied  with  wood  and  pasture; 
but  it  is  not  passable  for  light  carriages,  owing  to  deep  ruts.  It  may  be 
passed  in  autumn,  when  the  fields  are  cleared  of  their  crops.  The  best 
way,  therefore,  in  a  carriage,  is  along  the  New  Passage  road,  till  we  come 
opposite  Caldecot,  on  the  r.  This  road  is  excellent. 

Caldecot  Castle,  in  Monmouthshire,  is  a  splendid  relic  of  feudal 
magnificence,  once  the  property  of  the  haughty  Bolingbroke,  and  still 
forming  a  portion  of  the  royal  domains.  It  is  situated  in  an  undiversified 
plain,  called  Caldecot  Level,  or  vale  of  Troggy.  Viewed  from  an  elevation 
in  the  approach,  the  towers  and  citadel  appear  sunk  and  undistinguished 
from  the  curtain  wall  of  the  fortification  ;  but  on  a  nearer  inspection,  the 
ruin  rises  into  importance  ;  and  the  aspect  of  its  chief  entrance,  a  large 
Gothic  gateway  guarded  by  two  massive  projecting  towers,  is  truly  grand. 
The  light  grey  masonry  of  this  entrance  is  agreeably  relieved  by  a  pro¬ 
fusion  of  ivy,  overspreading  nearly  the  whole  of  one  tower,  and  throwing 
the  broad  shadow  of  its  pendant  foliage  upon  part  of  the  other.  Within 
the  portal  on  the  south  side,  the  grooves  of  two  portcullises  are  apparent. 
There  are  apertures  also  in  the  arch,  probably  intended  to  pour  down 
melted  lead  upon  the  besiegers.  The  w.  side  has  also  round  towers ;  but 
the  three  remaining  sides  have  square  ones  at  their  terminations.  On 
entering  the  court,  there  appear  some  remains  of  the  baronial  hall ;  the 
foundations  of  other  buildings,  within  the  area  of  the  walls,  are  also 
apparent.  A  small  artificial  mount  at  the  n.  e.  angle  of  the  ruin,  sustains 
the  citadel,  a  lofty  round  tower,  to  which  last  resort  of  the  garrison  a 
ready  communication  seems  to  have  been  conducted  upon  the  walls,  from 
the  different  towers  and  other  parts  of  the  fortress.  The  tower  at  the 
s.  angle,  is  almost  dilapidated  ;  the  shape  appears  to  have  been  oblong, 
terminating  in  a  circular  projection  towards  the  moat,  a  figure  commonly 
preferred  by  the  Saxon  architects.  To  the  e.  of  this  building,  is  a  large 
breach  in  the  walls,  which  opens  to  the  area,  with  the  citadel  in  the  back¬ 
ground.  Probably,  the  baronial  hall  w^as  between  this  tower  and  the  prin¬ 
cipal  gateway.  The  style  is  Norman  ;  the  ruins  considerable ;  the  form  is 
an  irregular  pentagon,  two  of  the  sides  being  those  of  a  square.  The 
area,  at  its  greatest  length,  is  100  yards,  its  greatest  width  75.  The 
thickness  of  the  walls  varies  from  5  ft.  to  9  ft*  >  they  are  formed  of  coarse 
materials,  but  the  towers  are  faced  with  hewn  gritstone.  The  early  his¬ 
tory  of  this  fortress  is  involved  in  much  uncertainty.  Some  have  con¬ 
jectured  that  a  portion  of  it  was  erected  by  Harold ;  and  indeed  a  round 
tower  on  the  s.  w.  side  of  the  castle,  with  a  circularly  arched  entrance, 
bears  a  Saxon  character  ;  but  the  general  architecture  of  the  structure  is 
Gothic.  Dugdale  relates  that  in  1221,  Humphrey  Earl  of  Hereford  did 
homage  and  had  livery  of  this  castle.  The  ancestors  of  the  Bohun  family 
were  early  possessors  ;  and  on  the  assassination  of  the  Earl  of  Hereford  in 
1597^  the  castle  was  seized  on  by  the  crown,  hut  was  re, stored  to  the  son, 


170 


CAERWENT. 


by  Henry  IV. ;  at  his  death,  it  became  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Stafford 
by  marriage ;  and  on  the  division  of  the  estates  among  the  Bohun  family, 
it  was  retained  by  Henry  VI.:  afterwards  it  belonged  to  Edward  IV.,  who 
granted  it  to  Lord  Herbert  of  Raglan,  afterwards  Earl  of  Pembroke ;  it 
then  reverted  to  Henry  VI.,  and  was  again  inherited  by  Edward  IV. 
Richard  III.  returned  it  to  the  Duke  of  Buckingham,  a  descendant  of  the 
Earl  of  Stafford  ;  but  when  both  the  duke  and  his  son  were  beheaded  for 
rebellion,  the  castle  was  added  by  Henry  VIII.  to  the  Duchy  of  Lancaster, 
from  which  it  was  leased  by  the  Earls  of  Worcester,  during  the  reigns  of 
Elizabeth,  James  1.,  and  Charles  I.,  and  is  now  held  by  C.  H.  Leigh,  Esq. 
The  entrance  and  front  of  this  castle  have  withstood  the  attacks  of  the 
seasons  and  the  caustic  of  time,  still  exhibiting  a  venerable  fortress.  It 
was  evidently  built  in  different  ages,  as  both  Saxon  and  Norman  charac¬ 
teristics  of  architecture  are  still  visible.  The  structure  has  been  surrounded 
by  a  moat,  and  the  remains  of  the  keep  and  contiguous  parts  may  easily  be 
descried.  The  moat  probably  was  supplied  from  the  river  Troggy,  which 
is  said  to  have  been  navigable  up  to  Caerwent,  which  was  once  a  mart  of 
some  consequence.  Caldecot  church  is  an  extensive  and  highly  ornamented 
Gothic  structure,  at  present  strangely  disproportionate  to  the  scanty  flock 
which  it  has  to  fold.  It  consists  of  a  nave,  a  side  aisle  to  the  n.,  with  a 
massive  tower  in  the  centre,  and  a  chancel.  The  style  is  Gothic ;  the 
nave  is  separated  from  the  side  aisle  by  5  pointed  arches  or  clustered  piers  ; 
the  windows  are  ornamented  Gothic,  and  contain  several  remains  of  painted 
glass,  principally  coats  of  arms.  On  the  outside  of  the  wall,  over  the 
s.  door,  is  a  small  figure  of  the  Virgin,  to  whom  it  was  dedicated. 

To  Caerwent  the  traveller  returns  to  the  high  road  leading  from  the 
New  Passage,  and  passes  the  pretty  village  of  Crick,  situated  at  the  junction 
of  four  roads.  That  on  the  n.  leads  to  Shire  Newton  and  Monmouth ;  on 
the  E.  to  St.  Pierre  and  Chepstow ;  on  the  w.  to  Caerwent,  Penhow  and 
Newport ;  on  the  s.  s.  e.  to  the  New  Passage,  through  the  village  of  Porth- 
scewydd  or  Portiscoed,  the  Part  under  the  Wood.”  Near  this  place  is  the 
ancient  encampment  called  Sudbrooke  or  Southbrook,  upon  the  verge  of  a 
cliff,  rising  from  the  Severn  Sea.  The  form  is  semicircular,  opening 
towards  the  water.  On  the  land  side  it  was  defended  by  a  triple  rampart 
of  earth  and  two  ditches.  The  prevailing  opinion  respecting  the  use  of 
these  works  is,  that  it  was  intended  by  the  Romans  to  defend  their  vessels 
lying  in  the  pill  beneath,  and  to  keep  up  a  communication  between  their 
naval  station  upon  the  opposite  shore  near  King  Road.  A  small  chapel  in 
ruins,  stands  near,  projecting  into  the  Severn,  on  the  outside  of  a  great 
rampart  supposed  to  have  attached  to  some  contiguous  mansion.  In 
Powell’s  History  of  Wales,  it  is  said  that  Harold,  after  taking  part  of 
S.  Wales  from  Prince  Gryffydd,  built  a  magnificent  house  or  castle  at  Porth- 
scewydd.  This  spot  was  formerly  washed  by  the  Severn,  which  has  since 
receded  upwards  of  a  mile. 


To  Caerleon,  9  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Evans, 
l.lanvair,  li  miles.  Warner;  Skrine. 
Caerleon,  after  returning  from  Dinham,  along 
the  coiu'se  of  the  Roman  road,  which  was 
called  Julia  Strata,  by  way  of  Penhow  Castle. 
Malkin. 


To  Penhow  Castle,  3  miles.  Donovan  ;  Warner’s 
2d  Walk ;  J.  W.  Manby. 

Newport,  11  miles. 

New  Passage,  5  miles.  Barber. 

Caerwent,  by  Crick,  Smiles. 

Caerwent,  over  the  fields,  2  miles. 


171 


CAERWYS. 

From  Mold,  12  miles.  Pennant;  Warner.  |  From  Denbigh,  7^  miles.  Wyndham. 

CAERWYSj  or  Caergwys_,  is  a  small  unincorporated  borough  and 
market  town  in  Flintshire,  formerly  a  place  of  great  consequence;  in  1831 
it  contained  773  inhabitants.  It  derives  its  name  from  Caer,  a  fortified 
city,  and  Gwys,  summons  ;  having  been  a  Roman  station,  and  seat  of  judi¬ 
cature.  The  assize,  or  great  sessions  for  the  county  of  Flint,  was  held  for 
several  centuries  at  this  place,  but  its  magnificence  is  now  extinct.  Stat 
magni  nominis  umbra."’  The  place  exhibits  a  Roman  plan,  the  streets  cross¬ 
ing  each  other  at  right  angles  ;  and  numerous  copper  coins  of  different  em¬ 
perors  also  were  discovered  in  a  field  near  the  town,  There  also  existed  an 
upright  stone  bearing  a  Latin  inscription,  — 

“  HIC  JACET  MULIER  BO  .  .  .  OBIIT  .  .  . 

This  stone  measured  4  ft,  6  in.  in  height,  and  3  in  breadth.  It  has  been 
removed  to  Mr.  Pennant’s  garden  at  Downing,  A  tumulus  is  near  the  site, 
and  several  others  are  scattered  round  the  vicinity.  In  subsequent  ages, 
this  town  was  the  Athenaeum  of  n.  W ales  ;  here  a  kind  of  British  Olympics 
were  performed,  it  being  the  seat  of  the  Eisteddvodau,  or  a  session  of  bards 
and  minstrels  of  a  certain  district,  as  Aberfraw  in  Anglesea  was  of  those  of 
that  island  and  the  adjacent  country,  and  Mathravel  of  those  of  Powys. 
Here  the  British  bards  poured  forth  their  extemporaneous  effusions,  or 
awakened  their  harps  to  melody,  in  trials  of  skill  instituted  by  law,  with 
great  form  and  ceremony  :  the  spot  is  called  Coed-Edwyn,  near  Powys, 
once  the  Eleia  of  Cambria.  It  was  enacted  during  the  reign  of  Gryffydd 
ap  Cynan,  in  the  time  of  Henry  I.  and  King  Stephen,  that  no  person  should 
follow  the  profession  of  bard  or  minstrel,  but  those  who  had  regularly  gra¬ 
duated  af  the  Eisteddvod,  held  every  three  years.  They  were  not  to  degrade 
themselves  by  following  any  other  occupation,  were  prohibited  from  invading 
oach  other’s  province,  and  the  remuneration  of  their  services  was  fixed  by  a 
legal  tariff.  (See  this  subject  enlarged  in  Beauties  of  England,”  vol.  xvii. 
p.  700 — 707-)  These  meetings  were  held  every  three  years  by  legal  com¬ 
mission.  In  the  year  1798  attempt  was  made  to  restore  this  literary 
congress  by  the  Gwyneddigion  Society,  an  association  for  the  encouragement 
of  Welsh  literature.  The  company,  after  the  ancient  notice  of  a  year  and 
one  day,  met  in  the  town  hall  of  Caerwys.  The  candidates  for  prizes  were 
20  bards,  18  vocal  performers,  and  21  harpers.  The  thesis  was  The  love 
of  our  country,  and  the  commemoration  of  the  celebrated  Eisteddvod,  held  at 
the  same  town,  and  under  the  same  roof,  as  that  by  virtue  of  a  commission 
from  Queen  Elizabeth.”  The  first  day  was  spent  in  reading  and  comparing 
the  poetic  woiks  of  the  different  candidates  for  the  Cadair,  or  Chair  ;  the 
second  was  occupied  in  hearing  the  vocal  and  instrumental  performers  ex¬ 
hibit  their  respective  talents  ;  and  on  the  third  the  prizes  were  adjudged, 
the  nominal  honours  conferred,  and  the  assembly  dismissed.  The  composi¬ 
tions  produced  were  numerous  and  animated.  The  judges  decided  in  favour 
of  Robert  ap  Dafydd,  of  Nantglyn,  in  Denbighshire,  known  among  the  bards 
by  the  name  of  ^obin  Ddu  o  Nantglyn.  At  these  meetings,  none  but  bards 
of  a  superior  merit  were  allowed  to  rehearse  their  compositions,  nor  any  but 
minstrels  of  acknowledged  skill  to  perform  on  their  harps :  of  their  respective 
merits  judges  were  appointed  by  the  Princes  of  Wales,  and,  after  the  con¬ 
quest  of  that  country,  by  the  kings  of  England.  A  commission  from  Queen 


172 


CANN  OFFICE. 


Elizabeth,  dated  at  Chester,  the  23d  of  October,  1567,  for  holding  an  Eis- 
teddvod  at  Caerwys  in  the  following  year,  was  in  the  possession  of  Sir 
Thomas  Mostyn,  Bart.,  together  with  the  silver  harp,  which  it  had  been 
from  time  immemorial  the  privilege  of  his  ancestors  to  bestow  upon  the  best 
performer  on  that  instrument.  This  badge  of  distinction  is  about  6  inches 
long,  and  is  furnished  with  strings  of  silver,  corresponding  with  the  number 
of  the  Muses.  An  Eisteddvod  accordingly  took  place  on  May  26,  1568, 
when  fifty-five  persons  were  admitted  to  their  respective  degrees  as  vocal 
and  instrumental  performers,  and  the  prize  of  the  silver  harp  was  adjudged 
to  Sion  ab  William  ab  Sion.  The  commissioners,  in  the  course  of  this  year, 
published  a  notice  that  another  Eisteddvod  would  be  held  on  the  next  an¬ 
niversary  of  that  day  ;  but  of  this  assembly  no  particulars  have  been  pre¬ 
served,  further  than  that  it  was  the  occasion  of  a  poetical  contest  between 
the  bards  of  North  and  South  Wales,  in  which  some  of  the  most  beautiful 
stanzas  in  the  Welsh  language  were  produced  extemporaneously.  From  this 
period  the  Eisteddvodau  did  not  enjoy  any  share  of  royal  favour,  and  were 
not  convened  by  the  successors  of  Queen  Elizabeth  ;  but  in  the  year  1798, 
an  attempt  to  restore  them  was  made  by  the  Gwyneddigion  Society  in 
London,  and,  after  the  usual  notice  of  a  year  and  a  day  had  been  given,  a 
numerous  meeting,  under  extensive  and  highly  respectable  patronage,  was 
held  in  the  town  hall  here,  which  had  been  especially  fitted  up  for  the  oc¬ 
casion,  and  the  usual  contest  of  talent  and  skill  took  place,  and  prizes  were 
awarded  to  the  successful  candidates.  The  town,  however,  had  been  for 
some  time  declining  ,*  and,  notwithstanding  these  and  similar  efforts  for  the 
restoration  of  the  Eisteddvodau  to  their  original  splendour,  the  Welsh 
poetry  was  rapidly  waning  in  character,  and  the  high  patronage  by  which 
it  was  previously  cherished  had  declined,  when  a  revival  took  place,  in  the 
year  1828,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Cymmrodorion  Society  in  London  ;  and 
the  most  splendid  Eisteddvod  on  record  was  held  on  the  l6th,  17th,  and  18th 
of  September  in  that  year,  at  Denbigh.  Miss  Angharad  Llwyd,  daughter 
of  the  late  vicar,  who  was  the  friend  and  companion  of  Mr.  Pennant,  re¬ 
sides  in  this  borough.  Her  talents  have  been  duly  honoured  by  several 
prizes  awarded  at  the  recent  Eisteddvodau. 

At  Pen-y-bawn,  an  elevation  about  a  mile  on  this  side  of  Holywell,  a 
picture  of  prodigious  extent  and  variety  greets  the  beholder.  Arran,  Cadair- 
Idris,  and  Snowdon,  are  easily  distinguished  among  the  thousand  hills  of 
Merioneth  and  Caernarvonshire.  Holywell  appears  to  the  e.  ;  beyond  it  the 
rivers  Dee  and  Mersey,  back  by  the  Lancashire  coast.  On  the  s.  e.  a  part 
of  Chester  is  visible. 

At  Forden,  in  this  vicinity,  are  found  varieties  of  the  carbonate  of  lime, 
such  as  regularly  formed  spars,  stalactites,  and  coarse  mineral  agaric. 

The  great  landed  proprietor  of  this  district  is  the  Earl  of  Plymouth. 

To  St.  Asaph,  7  miles.  Warner.  Mr.  reiinant’s  first  excursion  ended  at  this  vil- 

Holywcll,  6  miles.  Wyndham.  lage. 


CANN  OFFICE. 

From  Llanvair,  Mont.,  7  miles.  Evans.  I  From  Welsh  Pool,  15  miles.  Pugh. 

Mallwyd,  11  miles.  Skrine.  | 

CANN  OFFICE,  or  the  Inn  of  Cann,  in  Montgomeryshire,  derives  its 
name  from  a  religious  establishment,  probably  once  a  seat  of  jurisdiction, 
in  the  early  times  of  the  Britons ;  some  Druidical  remains  in  the  vicinity 


CANN  OFFICE. 


173 


favour  this  etymology.  The  accommodations  ai  the  Inn  here  are  respect¬ 
able^  and  the  people  obliging.  Upon  Moel-y-ddolwen,  2  m.  s.  s.  e.  of  Cann 
Office  is  a  fortified  camp  of  oblong  form^  and  100  yards  in  length.  The 
entrance  is  on  the  w.^  on  which  side  the  ascent  is  easiest.  On  the  borders 
of  Llanhryn-Mair,  once  a  chapel  under  Darowain^  stands  the  Llyn- 
Gwyddior,  or  Llyn-Cadifer.  This  pool  is  of  a  rhomboidal  form,  about  1  m. 
in  circumference.  To  the  w.  are  some  very  deep  ravines,  through  which 
the  wind  occasionally  forces  the  water  in  a  rapid  torrent.  In  the  township 
of  Maes-Llemysten,  is  a  small  encampment  on  the  top  of  a  precipice,  en¬ 
closed  on  the  accessible  side,  by  a  high  ditch  ;  over  against  this,  on  the 
summit  of  Mynydd-Mopart,  a  dyke  full  as  large  as  OfFa’s,  crosses  the  hill; 
supposed  to  have  formed  a  barrier  against  the  incursions  of  the  enemy  from 
the  mountains  above.  Another  similar  entrenchment  is  observable  on  cross¬ 
ing  Cwm  Banwy,  near  Rhos-y-Gall,  in  the  parish  of  Llanerfyl,  a  good 
angling  station.  A  mile  s.  w.  of  Cann  Office,  is  the  village  of  Llangadfan. 
About  one-third  part  of  this  district  is  uncultivated,  and  the  value  of  neat 
bog  seems  to  be  unknown  except  for  fuel.  What  an  acquisition  would  a 
piece  of  turbary  be  to  an  English  farmer,  to  mingle  with  other  soils  !  No 
minerals  have  been  found  here,  except  a  few  specimens  of  copper-ore,  dug 
up  in  the  township  of  Coed  Talog,  on  the  estate  of  Robert  Lloyd,  Esq.,  of 
Oswestry.  Upon  the  common  of  Craig-y-go,  being  the  n.  side  of  the  same 
hill,  may  be  traced  very  early  attempts  at  mining ;  and  at  the  foot  of  that 
declivity,  facing  Llanfihangel,  is  a  cave  called  Ogof  Dolanog,  so  narrow  that 
a  man  cannot  advance  far  into  it.  This  is  the  case  in  most  Roman  works 
of  the  kind,  of  which  this  is  probably  a  specimen.  Llangadfan  consists  of 
7  townships  ;  Tre’r-llan,  Moelfeliarth,  Bryn-gaeddan,  Blawtty,  Cyffin, 
Cawndd,  and  Maes-llemysten.  The  patron  saint  of  the  living  is  Cadfan, 
son  of  Eneas  Lydewig,  by  Gwenteirbren,  daughter  of  Emyr  Llydaw,  one 
of  the  princes  of  Armorica.  He  arrived  thence  in  the  beginning  of  the  sixth 
century,  at  the  head  of  a  large  company  of  saints,  most  of  whom  were  men 
of  princely  family  and  relatives.  Among  these  were  Cynon,  Padarn,  Ty- 
decho,  &c.  Gwyndaf  hen  of  Little  Britain,  was  his  chaplain,  when  resi¬ 
dent  in  the  monastery  of  Bardsey.  St.  Cadfan  was  interred  at  Towyn;  but 
his  tombstone,  with  an  inscription,  was  removed  from  the  churchyard,  to  a 
grotto,  dark  as  Erebus.  It  has,  however,  since  been  restored,  and  depo¬ 
sited  in  Towyn  Church,  through  the  laudable  zeal  of  Edward  Scott,  Esq. 
The  glebe- house  of  Llangadfan  was  burnt  down  by  the  rebels,  when  Vavasor 
Powell  sequestered  the  benefices  of  Montgomeryshire,  about  the  year  1645; 
the  parsonage  has  not  been  rebuilt.  In  the  churchyard  is  a  well  called 
Fynnon  Cadfan,  near  which  was,  a  few  years  since,  a  heap  of  stones,  sup¬ 
posed  to  be  the  ruins  of  a  building  once  erected  over  it.  At  Cann  Office 
is  a  celebrated  tumulus,  70  yards  in  circumference,  when  measured  along 
the  bottom  of  the  moat.  There  is  another  of  smaller  dimensions  near 
Llysin.  In  the  vicinity  of  Pont-y-llogel  are  two  carneddau,  of  different 
dimensions,  and  of  which  the  largest  is  at  least  60  feet  in  diameter  ;  in  the 
centre  it  is  7  feet  deep.  Some  years  since  a  great  part  of  this  tumulus  was 
appropriated  to  the  erection  of  Llwydiarth  Park  wall,  when  the  workmen 
discovered  a  sarcophagus,  covered  with  a  very  large  stone,  which  they  could 
not  without  much  difficulty  remove ;  at  one  end  was  found  a  vessel  enclos¬ 
ing  incinerated  bones  and  ashes ;  also  two  skeletons,  the  head  of  one  being 
placed  at  the  feet  of  the  other. 

To  Mallwyd  pass  2  m.  along  the  river  Banw.  Soon  after  crossing  the 
Twrch  occurs  Garthbihio,  1  m.  7  fur.,  a  township  included  between  the 
streams  of  the  Twrch  and  Banw,  containing  about  44  families.  The 


174 


CANN  OFFICE. 


church  is  dedicated  to  St,  Tydecho  ab  Amwn  Ddu^  ab  Emyr  Llydaw_,  and 
cousin  to  Cadfan.  A  well  adjoining  the  churchy  called  Ffynon  Tydecho 
is  appropriated  to  the  formation  of  a  cold  bath^  and  some  virtue  is  ascribed 
to  it  in  case  of  the  rheumatism.  Pins  in  great  number  may  be  seen  in  the 
bottom,  said  to  have  been  thrown  in  as  offerings.  The  mansion  of  Dol-y- 
maen,  in  this  village,  3^  m.  n.  w.,  was  the  residence  of  a  branch  of  the 
Llwydiarth  family.  There  was  lately  to  be  seen  over  a  parlour  door,  an 
inscription  of  the  sixteenth  century,  i  d  v  15.  .”  Within  1  m.  on  the 
r.  is  Gwanos^  John  Kennedy,  Esq.  Near  Garthbibio,  when  the  new  road 
and  bridge  were  under  formation,  a  carnedd  was  opened,  but  the  spoliation 
of  former  ages  had  removed  its  contents ;  the  lid  was  thrown  aside,  and  the 
chest  filled  with  loose  stones.  About  a  dozen  more  sepulchral  erections, 
from  SO  to  60  yards  in  circumference,  may  be  seen  in  the  contiguous 
parishes  of  Llanerfyl,  Llangadfan,  and  Garthbibio,  besides  many  of  smaller 
dimension.  The  cistveini,  or  stone  coffins,”  are  placed  in  the  centre, 
above  which  the  earn  is  always  most  protuberant.  A  circular  range  of 
large  upright  stones  was  generally  placed  at  one  end,  outside  of  the  heap  ; 
and  those  within  were  piled  loosely  in  circles  about  the  tomb,  the  interstices 
being  filled  up.  Some  of  these  are  covered  with  earth,  as  at  Nant~hrdn, 
and  another  near  Ty>  Gwyn,  in  Llanerfyl.  Others  are  almost  conical,  and 
approach  the  form  of  a  tumulus,  as  that,  for  instance,  upon  the  summit  of 
Bwlch-y-fedwen.  The  slabs  bear  traces  of  ignition,  and  nodules  of  quartz 
occur  oxidised  and  rendered  brittle  by  the  action  of  fire.  A  very  large 
upright  stone  is  generally  placed  within  10,  20,  or  50  yards  from  each  car¬ 
nedd.  Where  such  are  wanting  they  have  been  converted  to  other  uses. 
These  erections  were  probably  funereal  monuments  of  ancient  chiefs,  and 
their  immediate  dependants.  Sepulchres  of  the  commonality  are  found 
upon  the  hills;  where  there  is  a  declivity,  a  slight  hollow  is  to  be  seen,  and 
the  earth  heaped  below,  forming  a  small  oblong  hillock.  When  these  are 
opened,  a  stratum  of  ashes  and  black  earth  are  discovered.  These  sepul¬ 
chres  may  be  seen  in  great  numbers  also  upon  Pen-cad-Cymri,\\\  Llangad¬ 
fan.  All  these  hollows  are  graves,  and  the  manner  of  burial  was  thus 
observed.  The  dead  body  was  laid  on  the  bare  sward,  then  plastered  over 
with  clay,  and  covered  with  dry  turf;  a  fire  was  next  made  over  it  of 
furze,  wood,  &c.,  until  the  corpse  was  reduced  to  ashes,  and  the  bones 
nearly  burnt ;  afterwards,  both  charcoal  and  ashes  were  covered  with  earth, 
which  was  sometimes  accompanied  by  a  rude  aggregation  of  stones.  These 
and  similar  barrows  were  probably  raised  1000  years  before  either  Roman 
or  Saxon  invader  arrived  in  this  country. 

This  road  abounds  with  deep  depressions,  and  abrupt  risings  ;  one  con¬ 
siderable  declivity  is  called  the  Bwlch- y-fedwen.  Passing  this  difficult  de¬ 
scent,  the  road  for  several  miles  lies  over  a  flat  morass,  abounding  with  the 
carnation,  Eriophorum  polystachion,  Melicha  caerulea,  and  four  Andromeda 
polifolia.  Advancing  to  Meivod,  Mr.  Pugh  examined  the  banks  of  the 
Vyriiwy,  making  a  retrogade  movement  to  the  little  church  and  angling 
station  of  Llanerfyl,  and  thence  to  a  farm  house  called  Llysin,  adjoining 
which  there  is  a  tumulus.  He  has  given  a  highly  interesting  print,  called 

A  View  on  the  Vyrnwy  Dolanog.”  (^Tour,  p.  251.)  It  consists  of  the 
river  advancing  in  the  foreground  along  a  rugged  path,  a  precipitous  rock 
rising  on  each  side;  and  in  the  background  are  seen  mountains  soaring 
into  the  clouds.  He  next  descended  a  steep  hill  to  Pont  Dolanog.  “  The 
scenery  about  this  spot  is  truly  romantic,  partaking  strongly  of  the  charac¬ 
ter  of  the  best  hollows  and  dingles  of  Merionethshire.  The  bridge  is  of  one 
arch,  but  so  light  and  elegant  as  to  be  little  inferior  to  that  of  Inigo  Jones, 


CAPEL  CURIG. 


175 


at  Llanrwst.  Below,  the  scenery  is  very  grand.  The  fall  of  water  is  not 
more  than  12  feet,  hut  its  breadth  is  70  or  80  yards.  Proceeding  lower 
I  met  at  every  turn  with  something  excellent.'"  He  then  crossed  theVyrnwy, 
passing  an  iron  forge  and  flannel  factory.  Mr.  Pugh  advanced  suddenly 
down  a  steep  hill  to  Meivod,  a  most  enchantingly  situated  angling  station. 

To  Mallwyd,  11  miles.  Evans.”  I  To  Llanfyllin,  11  miles.  Pugh. 

Llanfair,  Mont.,  7  miles.  Skrine.  j  Meivod,  10  miles.  Pugh. 


CAPEL  CURIG. 

From  Caernarvon,  17  miles.  Hutton  ;  Bingley.  I  From  Llanberis,  10  miles.  Hutton. 

Llanrwst,  9  miles.  Aikin  ;  Pennant.  |  Bangor,  15  miles.  Pugh. 

CAPEL  CURIG  consists  of  a  few  cottages  and  a  chapel,  situated  between 
Llanrwst  and  Caernarvon,  on  the  London  and  Holyhead  road,  in  the  most 
southern  part  of  Llandegai  parish,  and  is  so  called  from  St.  Curig  or 
Cyrique.  He  was  of  Tarsus  in  Cilicia,  and  martyred  while  an  infant  at 
the  same  time  with  his  mother  Juliet  or  Julitta.  Hence  in  the  Myv. 
Archaiology,  this  place  is  denominated  Capel  Curig  a’i  fam  lulita.""  It 
is  a  chapel  of  ease,  intended,  doubtless,  to  accommodate  the  inhabitants  of 
the  mountainous  extremities  of  the  parishes  of  Llandegai,  Llanllechid, 
Trefriw,  Llanrhochwyn,  Llanrwst  and  Dolwyddelan,  which  extend  nearly 
to  this  place.  The  church  is  endowed  by  Queen  Anne’s  bounty,  and 
served  by  the  minister  of  Dolwyddelan.  The  parishioners  of  Llandegai 
are  notwithstanding  bound  to  keep  it  in  repair.  A  woman  of  the  name 
of  Ellen  Pritchard,  residing  at  Waenhir,  near  this  place,  died  lately  at  the 
advanced  age  of  103  years.  She  has  left  behind  her  four  daughters,  34 
grandchildren,  74  great  grand  children,  and  two  great  great  grandchildren. 
An  annual  fair  is  held  here  for  sheep.  Sept.  28.,  where  Lord  Penrhyn 
first  built  a  small  but  comfortable  Inn,  from  a  design  by  Mr.  W yatt. 
This  has  been  enlarged  to  the  dimensions  of  a  spacious  hotel,  and  is  fur¬ 
nished  in  a  very  superior  manner.  It  affords  many  comfortable  and  some 
elegant  apartments,  with  good  stabling,  &c.  It  is  covered  both  on  the  roof 
and  sides,  with  fine  blue  slate.  Its  situation  is  naked,  but  it  commands  a 
very  fine  combination  of  mountain,  lake,  rock,  and  ornamented  ground. 
A  large  folio  is  kept  for  the  amusement  of  the  stranger,  who  is  requested 
to  make  a  report  of  the  accommodations,  &c.  which  he  has  received.  The 
remarks  are,  with  a  few  ill-natured  exceptions,  highly  creditable.  A  guide 
to  Snowdon  and  Glyder  Bach,  may  be  had  here.  A  new  line  of  road 
from  this  place  to  Caernarvon  is  formed  through  the  sublime  pass  of  Llan¬ 
beris,  at  the  foot  of  Snowdon  ;  affording  a  more  direct  communication 
with  the  interior  of  the  counties  of  Caernarvon  and  Merioneth.  The  garden 
is  well  disposed ;  the  prospect  from  the  terrace  and  the  alcove  singularly 
pleasing.  Beyond  the  lakes  immediately  in  front  rises  the  biforked  summit 
of  Snowdon,  in  his  most  dignified  form.  A  pleasure  boat  is  kept  upon 
the  lake.  The  vale  of  Capel  Curig  is  bounded  by  Snowdon  and  his 
surrounding  mountains,  affording  a  most  picturesque  landscape.  Here  is 
that  variety  of  wood  and  water,  in  which  many  of  the  Welsh  vales  are 
defective.  Every  curious  and  contemplative  observer  of  the  sublimities 
of  nature,”  observes  the  author  of  Beaumaris  Bay,  will  certainly  be  happy 
in  knowing  that  the  very  centre  of  Eryri  has  been  rendered  acces¬ 
sible  even  to  carriages,  by  a  continuation  of  the  road  through  the  romantic 
vale  of  Nant  Frangon  to  Capel  Curig.  From  this  spot  the  recesses  of 
Snowdonia  may  be  traversed  at  leisure,  and  with  the  satisfaction  of  having 


176 


CAPEL  CURIG. 


within  reach  the  noon-day  repast,  and  the  evening  retirement.”  Upon 
moist  heaths  and  turfy  bogs  near  Capel  Curig  grows  the  Lycopodium  iti- 
undatum.  This  district  abounds  with  mineral  wealth.  Quantities  of  Ca^ 
lamine  have  been  found  here,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  occurs  the  rock 
called  Serpentine^  a  term  derived  from  frequent  contrasts  of  colour,  like 
the  skin  of  some  serpents.  The  neighbourhood  of  Capel  Curig,  Llan- 
beris,  and  Glyn  Llugwy,  in  the  time  of  Leland,  was  covered  with  the 
best  wood  in  the  country;  there  appears  at  present  few  recent  plantations 
and  little  underwood. 

From  Capel  Curig,  Snowdon  and  all  his  sons,  with  the  contiguous 
mountains,  burst  at  once  full  in  view,  forming  the  finest  approach  to 
our  boasted  Alps.  The  boundaries  of  this  vale  are,  on  one  side,  the  base 
of  the  crooked  mountain,  Moel  Siahod,  exceedingly  precipitous,  its  alti¬ 
tude  2878  ft. ;  on  the  other,  Glyder  Bach,  The  centre  is  varied  by  two 
small  lakes.  At  some  distance  beyond,  near  Pont-y-Gwryd,  Mr.  Pennant 
ascended  the  Glyder-fawr,  noted  by  the  editor  of  Camden  for  the  singular 
disposition  of  its  rocks.  The  ascent  proved  steep  and  laborious,  being  co¬ 
vered  with  loose  fragments.  The  area  is  occupied  with  groups  of  columnar 
stones,  of  vast  size,  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  long,  lying  in  all  directions. 
Many  are  fossiliferous,  mingled  with  pieces  of  lava.  This  mountain  is  a 
wreck  of  nature,  upheaved  by  some  mighty  volcanic  convulsion.  On  one 
side  is  a  crater  garnished  with  sharp  rocks,  pointing  upwards,  one  above 
the  other,  to  a  great  height.  In  the  midst  of  a  vale,  far  below,  rises  the 
singular  mountain  Trivaen,  assuming  on  this  side  a  pyramidal  form, 
naked,  and  very  rugged.  Pass  over  a  plain,  nearly  a  mile  broad,  called 
Y-Waen..Oer,  the  chilly  mountainous  flat.”  Observe  from  the  edge,  in  a 
tremendous  hollow,  Llyn-Boch-Llwyd,  the  Lake  of  the  Grey  Coat in 
the  bottom  of  the  valley,  near  the  foot  of  the  Trivaen,  lies  Llyn  Ogwen. 
From  Y-Waen-Oer  is  a  hazardous  descent  to  Cwm-bochllwyd,  and  thence  to 
Llyn  Ogwen,  This  lake  forms  the  source  of  the  river  Ogwen  ;  after  a  course 
of  twelve  miles  through  Mr.  Pennant’s  property,  it  is  lost  in  the  Menai, 
near  the  ruins  of  Capel  Ogwen,  The  route  from  that  place  into  the  chasm 
of  Nant  Frangon  is  called  Ben-glog.  On  one  side,  in  a  deep  hollow, 
formed  under  fallen  rocks,  was  once  the  secluded  refuge  of  Rhys  Coch~or- 
Eryri,  Rhys  the  Red,  of  Snowdon  ;  ”  a  mountain  bard,  patronised  by 
Robert  ap  Meredydd.  He  was  a  partisan  of  Glyndwr,  an  outlawed  chief¬ 
tain,  of  whose  fortunes  he  partook.  The  Trivaen,  from  this  bottom,  makes 
a  singular  appearance,  resembling  a  human  face,  reclined  backward.  Begin 
another  hard  ascent  to  Cwm  Idwal^  remarkable  as  the  scene  of  the  murder 
of  the  infant  heir  of  Prince  Owen  Gwynedd,  by  Nevyddhardd,  who  is  said 
to  have  been  degraded  in  consequence. 

Upon  the  rocks  grows  the  Cyathea  incisa,  also  Cistopteris  Fragilis,  and 
alpina.  Near  this  place  is  a  quarry,  noted  for  excellent  hones.  A  new 
and  greater  toil  is  to  he  undergone  in  ascending  from  Cwm  Idwal,  to  the 
heights  just  described.  The  way  lies  beneath  the  vast  precipice  Castel- 
y-Geifr,  the  Castle  of  the  Goats  ”  A  line  of  large  stones  points  towards 
the  cwm,  to  clamber  over  which  requires  much  activity  and  bodily  strength. 
Observe,  on  the  right,  a  stupendous  fractured  rock,  called  Twl-du,  “  the 
Black  Cleft;”  a  horrible  gap,  in  the  centre  of  a  great  black  precipice, 
extending  about  150  yards,  in  depth  about  100  ;  and  only  6  wide;  per¬ 
pendicularly  open  to  the  surface  of  the  mountain.  Among  these  rocks 
grow  Gallium  boreale,  Plantago  maritima,  Arenaria  verna,  Adoxa  moscha- 
tellina,  Thalictrum  alpinum,  T.  minus,  Rhodiola  rosea,  Asplenium  viride. 
Polypodium  Phegopteris  ;  in  the  cleft,  Rumex  digynus  ;  in  the  upper  part 


CAPEL  CURIG. 


177 


of  the  cleftj  Gnaphalium  dioicum  ;  in  the  upper  part  of  the  chasm,  Saxi- 
fraga  nivalis.  In  Llyn  Idwal  and  Llyn  Ogwen,  grow  Lobelia  dortmanna ; 
and,  upon  the  contiguous  mountains,  Anthericum  serotinum.  The  waters 
of  Llyn-y-cwm,  impetuously  rush  through  the  bottom  of  Twl-du.  Reach 
the  Glyder-fawr,  and  pass  by  the  edge  of  Clogwyn-du-ymhen-y-Glyder ,  as 
dreadful  a  precipice  as  any  in  Snowdonia,  hanging  over  the  waters  of  Llyn 
Idwal.  This  neighbourhood  is  of  great  note  among  botanists  for  rare 
plants ;  among  these  are  the  Eriophorum  vaginatum,  and  E.  polystachion ; 
in  peat  bogs,  the  Melica  caerulea ;  upon  the  mountains  around,  Poa  coesia. 
The  prospect  from  Glyder-fawr  h  very  grand;  Snowdon  is  seen  to  great 
advantage  ;  the  deep  vale  of  Llanberis,  and  its  lakes,  Nant  Frangon,  &c. 
&c.  The  plain  which  forms  the  summit  is  singularly  covered  with  loose 
stones,  like  the  beach  of  the  sea  ;  in  many  places  one  crosses  the  other,  in 
all  directions,  and  entirely  naked ;  others  lie  in  groups,  almost  erect,  sharp 
pointed  and  in  sheaves.  The  elements  seem  to  have  warred  against  this 
mountain ;  rains  have  washed,  lightnings  torn,  the  very  soil  has  deserted 
it,  and  the  winds  make  it  the  constant  object  of  their  fury.  The  shepherds 
style  it  Carnedd-y-gwynt,  ‘‘Hhe  Eminence  of  Tempests.”  This  mountain 
is  connected  with  the  lesser  Glyder  by  Y-Waen-Oer:  the  traveller,  there¬ 
fore,  has  choice  of  ways  to  these  mountains. 

A  guide  to  Snowdon  may  be  had  at  the  inn  here.  Fie  conducts  his  charge 
along  one  of  the  buttresses  of  the  mountain,  above  Cwm  Llydaw.  Mr.  Pugh 
says,  “  On  returning,  he  should  come  down  the  romantic  horsepath  from 
the  copper -mine,  by  the  sides  of  the  lakes,  in  order  to  give  strangers  an  op¬ 
portunity  of  contemplating  the  awful  works  of  nature  which  encompass 
them.”  —  Tour,  p.  158. 

The  most  preferable  for  ease,  is  the  following  road  into  the  vale  of  Llan¬ 
beris.  Pass  by  a  rugged  brow  called  Rhiw-y- Glyder,  noted  for  its  variety 
of  plants.  Thence  descend  by  Oleu-fawr ;  soon  after  visit  the  small  lake 
called  Llyn-y-  cwm,  noted  for  Giraldus’s  tale  of  the  fish  it  yielded,  being 
monocular,  wanting  the  left  eye.  To  make  amends  for  the  disappearance 
of  this,  the  botanist  will  find  in  it  Lobelia  dortmanna,  Subularia  aquatica, 
Isoetis  lacustris,  and  not  far  distant,  Juncus  trifidus,  Hieracium  alpinum, 
Rubus  saxatilis,  Solidago  virgaurea,  In  this  descent,  leave  on  the  right 
Glyder-fawr,  and  Glyder-fach,  part  of  the  boundaries  of  Nant  Berts, 
and  arrive  in  the  vale  hy  Caunant-yr-esgair,  ^Ghe  Dingle  of  the  Enemy.” 

Most,  or  even  all,  of  these  high  mountains,  as  is  apparent  from 
history  and  tradition,  and  also  by  visible  appearances  of  roots,  fibres, 
and  often  whole  trunks  of  trees  dug  out  of  the  ground,  were  once  covered 
to  the  summit  with  woods,  penetrable  only  to  those  who  daily  haunted 
them.  We  may  conclude  also  that  they  were  inhabited  to  a  considerable 
elevation  from  the  site  of  walls,  enclosures,  and  appearances  of  ploughed 
ridges.  A  species  of  marcasite,  called  by  the  country  people  Cerrig- 
grisial,  ^  crystal  stones,’  may  here  occasionally  be  found.  About  2  m. 
forward,  the  r.  of  the  road,  is  the  romantic  pass  called  Bwlch-y-Gwyddyl, 
where  is  an  immense  stone  formed  like  a  shoe.  Soon  after  reach  the 
junction  of  Nant  Nanhwynen  with  Llanberis  pass,  then  turning  to  the  right, 
the  latter  soon  becomes  very  interesting.  The  stupendous  projections 
of  rocks  on  the  r.  supporting  the  Glyder  mountain  are  wonderfully  grand, 
and  finely  broken.  Pass  a  gloomy  small  cwm  of  uncommon  character, 
called  Ynys  Hettws,  which  lies  just  beyond  a  considerable  elevation.  A 
solitary  cottage  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  mount,  separated  by  an  impass¬ 
able  river,  and  formerly  inhabited  by  a  hardy  peasant,  named  Cady  Thomas, 
who  lived  alone,  and  cultivated  the  soil  she  occupied.  But  the  rock  called 

N 


178 


CAPEL  CURIG. 


Dinas. y-Bod,  ‘‘  the  Kite’s  Fort^^’  which  occurs  about  the  centre  of  the  pass^ 
is  the  most  picturesque  object  in  this  vicinity.  Still  lower  is  Cwm  Glds,  in 
which  a  solitary  farm-house  appears  suspended  among  gigantic  pendant 
cliffs.  Here  the  rocks  on  each  side  soar  to  a  vast  height.  On  the  r.  the 
mountains  are  in  many  places  covered  with  basaltic  formations,  regularly 
pentagonal  in  their  conformation,  having  one  segment  much  smaller  than  the 
others.  A  verdant  lane  soon  introduces  Llanberis. 

The  great  road  hence  to  Bangou  lies  over  a  common  to  Llyn  Ogwen  4  m. 
Bryn-derwen  lies  m.  to  the  r. ;  on  the  1.  Ogwenbank,  a  romantic  villa  of 
G.  H.  D.  Pennant,  Esq.,  and  about  g  m.  further  to  the  1.  is  the  great  slate 
quarry  belonging  to  the  same  proprietor.  Llandegai,  9  miles.  On  the  r. 
Penrhyn  Castle,  the  superb  mansion  of  G.  H.  D.  Pennant,  Esq.  A  little 
short  of  Bangor  on  the  r.  is  Port  Penrhyn,  Bangor,  1  m.  (See  that 
article.) 

It  has  been  noticed,  under  the  titles  of  Caernarvon  and  Llanberis,  that 
the  easiest  ascents  to  the  summit  of  Snowdon  are  from  a  cottage  called 
Snowdon,  and  from  Dolbadarn  Castle ;  but  the  more  hardy  pedestrian,  in¬ 
tent  on  being  acquainted  with  the  rugged  features  of  the  sovereign  of  this 
alpine  range,  should  ascend  its  bold  front  from  the  small  farm-house  in 
Cwm  Delhi,  5  m.  from  Capel  Curig  on  the  Beddgelart  road.  This  achieve¬ 
ment  can  only  be  performed  on  foot,  but  amply  repays  the  toil  of  ascending 
a  succession  of  precipices,  relieved  only  by  the  crystal  lakes  which  may  on 
this  route  be  explored.  This  expedition  would  he  greatly  facilitated  by  a 
small  boat  stationed  upon  each  of  the  principal  lakes  ;  in  this  the  adventurer 
might  paddle  himself  to  and  from  the  opposite  shore,  thus  avoiding  a  cir¬ 
cuitous  march,  frequently  interrupted  by  morasses.  For  this  purpose  the 
more  professed  mountaineers  sometimes  carry  a  coracle  with  them. 

After  leaving  Capel  Curig  for  Dolwyddelan  Castle,  proceeding  about 
two  miles,  the  traveller  should  take  the  road  to  the  right. 

The  drive  to  Beddgelart  exhibits  a  wonderful  variety  of  sublime 
scenery.  The  road  is  excellent,  and  conveys  the  traveller  amidst  Snow¬ 
donia  along  the  banks  of  Llyn  Gwynant  and  Llyn-y-Dinas.  The  new  road 
to  Curig- y-Drudion  occursupon  the  southern  bank  of  the  Llygwy  to Bettws- 
y-Coed,  whence  on  the  way  occurs  the  grand  Falls  of  the  Conwy.  Near  a 
new  bridge  on  rising  ground  is  the  residence  of  Robert  Meyrick  Humphries, 
Esq. ;  the  Colwyn  ripples  below,  on  the  banks  of  which  are  extensive  plant¬ 
ations.  This  vale  appears  sometimes  in  deep  ravines,  and  sometimes  in 
well-wooded  dells.  On  advancing  to  Cernioge  Inn,  and  Cerig-y-Dru- 
DioN,  the  road  lies  across  a  moory  plain,  in  tolerable  cultivation.  This 
being  now  the  great  Irish  road,  the  inhabitants  of  some  poor  cottages  have 
acquired  a  habit  of  mendicity.  The  children  follow  carriages  as  they  ad¬ 
vance  on  rising  ground,  and  in  a  whining  tone  utter  something  like  “  a 
penny  to  buy  shoes.” 

On  the  way  to  Cernioge,  we  pass  Bettws-y-Coed,  ‘^Ohe  Chapel  in  the 
Wood,”  the  road  running  near  the  Llugwy  for  live  miles,  is  inclosed  by  a 
range  of  mountains  on  each  side.  A  walk  to  the  right  up  these  banks  pre¬ 
sents  some  sublime  objects  of  contemplation.  Rock  and  river  seem  to 
contend  which  may  most  delight  the  traveller.  About  3^  m.  is  the  famous 
Bhaiadyr-y-Wenol,  ^Ohe  Spout  of  the  Swallow,”  an  aggregation  of  preci¬ 
pices  elevated  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  over  which  the  water  rushes  with  the 
utmost  violence  down  a  chasm  in  the  widest  part  60  feet  broad  !  A  fine 
view  of  this  cataract  may  be  obtained  from  the  upper  part  of  the  wood.  A 
path  from  the  high  road  leads  to  the  fall,  on  the  side  of  which  a  gate  is 
erected  for  the  convenience  of  those  who  are  desirous  of  gratifying  them- 


CARDIGAN. 


179 


selves  with  a  survey  of  this  attractive  scene.  A  summer-house,  lately 
erected,  forms  a  guide  to  this  secluded  spot,  the  sublime  features  of  which 
easily  escape  the  tourist’s  notice.  Campanula  hederacea  grows  abundantly 
beside  the  path  descending  to  this  cataract. 

Llanrwst  is  full  8  m.  from  Capel  Curig;  Rhaiadyr-y-Wenol,  Si  m., 
Bettws  and  Pont-y-Parc,  5  m.  Some  travellers  make  a  circuit  to  Llanrwst  by 
Dolwyddelan  Castle,  6  m.,  Rhaiadyr-y-Wenol,  6  m.,  Pont-y-Parc,  1  m.  ; 
Bettws,  ^  m.,  Llanrwst,  3|  m.,  making  an  excursion  of  17  miles. 

None,  it  is  supposed,  who  have  penetrated  to  Capel  Curig,  from 
populous  and  more  cultivated  scenes,  to  examine  the  grand  and  savage  part 
of  nature’s  vagaries,  will  omit  an  excursion  to  the  bold  shores  and  cataract 
of  Llyn  Owgen,  lying  7  m.  towards  Bangor,  remarkable  for  its  excellent 
trout,  superior  in  colour  and  flavour  to  those  of  other  Caernarvonshire  lakes ; 
their  hue  is  bright  yellow,  and  they  cut  red  as  salmon  in  full  season.  The 
river  Ogwen  also  abounds  with  trout  and  salmon.  In  approaching  this 
lake  the  biforked  Trifaen  soars  into  the  clouds.  Having  passed  the  lake, 
the  entrance  to  Nant  Frangon,  may  be  examined  but  not  described,  for 
the  romantic  pen  of  a  Radclifle  could  not  overcharge  a  description  of  a 
chasm  so  rude  and  stupendous.  Neither  should  a  walk  of  ^  m.  along  the 
road  to  the  1.  of  a  Gothic  cottage  be  omitted  ;  it  leads  to  the  awe-impressing 
solitude  of  Llyn  Idwal,  a  small  lake  enclosed  within  the  gloomy  horrors  of 
the  surrounding  scenery,  more  gloomy  than  even  that  of  Llyn  Ogwen. 
When  advancing  or  receding  from  Capel  Curig  the  tourist  must  on  no  ac¬ 
count  omit  to  examine  the  Falls  of  the  Conwy  and  Rhaiadyr-y-Wenol. 

Mr.  Edward  Pugh,  the  author  of  Cambria  Depicta,”  in  4to,  containing 
71  excellent  views,  when  at  this  place,  visited  the  latter  cataract.  The 
sight,”  says  he,  was  excessively  grand :  a  mighty  torrent  rushing  down 
a  precipice  from  80  to  100  ft.  high,  between  two  umbrageous  rocks,  ex¬ 
hibits  a  subject  for  a  grand  picture.  Though  the  Niagara  cataract  in 
Canada,  much  celebrated  by  travellers,  is  of  great  breadth,  and  no  less  than 
262  ft.  fall,  yet  so  far  as  I  can  judge  of  it  from  pictures,  it  is  not  by  any 
means  so  picturesque  as  the  one  under  notice.  I  returned  for  some  distance 
and  climbed  up  the  mountains  towards  Llanrwst,  in  order  to  ascertain  thence 
the  picturesque  appearance  of  Snowdon.”  From  Capel  Curig  he  ascended 
the  summit  of  Moel-Siabod,  2878  ft.  in  altitude. 


To  Beddgelart,  11  miles. 

Dolwyddelan  Castle,  6  miles.  Bingley. 
Llanberis,  8  miles.  Pennant;  Aikin  ;  Pugh. 
Cernioge,  byway  of  Rhaiadyr  y-Wenol,  17  m. 
Hutton. 


To  Bangor,  14  miles. 

Llanrwst,  8  miles. 
Cerig-y-Drudion,  19  miles. 


CARDIGAN. 


From  Haverfordwest,  26  miles.  Barber. 

Newport,  8  miles.  Barber;  Evans;  Wynd- 
ham  ;  Skrine. 

Newcastle  Emlyn,  10  m.  Malkin  ;  Skrine. 


From  Aberaeron,  22  miles.  Warner  ;  Wynd 
ham’s  2d  tour  ;  Lipscomb. 

Narberth,  26  miles. 


CARDIGAN  is  a  sea-port,  borough,  market-town,  and  parish,  in  the 
hundred  of  Troed-yr-caer,  and  the  county  which  takes  its  name.  It  is 
called  by  the  natives  of  the  Principality  Aber  Teifi,  from  its  situation  near 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Teifi.  The  term  Cardigan  is  derived  from 
Caredig,  son  of  Cynedda  Wledig,  and  chieftain  of  the  province  of  Caredigion, 
which  once  formed  the  country  of  Dimetia.  The  river  is  navigable  for  ships 
of  small  burden  up  to  the  quay,  which  enables  the  inhabitants  to  carry  on 

N  2 


180 


CARDIGAN. 


a  brisk  trade  with  Ireland_,  but  a  bar  at  its  mouth  prevents  the  entrance  of 
large  ships^  having  at  high  water  only  22  ft.  of  water^  with  a  fall  of  l6  ft., 
leaving  at  times  only  6  ft.  depth  of  water  ;  at  neap  tides  the  rise  and 
fall  do  not  exceed  11  ft.  There  are  employed  here  nearly  800  vessels  from 
300  to  400  tons  burden,  at  spring  tides,  navigated  by  about  1000  seamen. 
The  largest  vessel  employed  is  400  tons,  the  smallest  1 5  tons.  The 
salmon  of  this  river  is  said  to  be  of  a  finer  quality  than  any  other  in 
W ales.  They  are  caught  as  high  up  as  Lampeter,  30  m.  distant,  and  the 
fishery  affords  subsistence  to  many  people.  The  Teifi  is  celebrated  for 
the  richness  of  its  scenery,  particularly  between  Cardigan  and  Kilgerran 
Castle.  The  views  below  Cardigan  are  scarcely  inferior.  The  coasts  on 
each  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  are  uncommonly  grand,  particularly 
on  the  Pembroke  side,  where  rises  Cemmaes  Head,  a  promontory  of  immense 
elevation. 

The  Bridge  is  very  ancient,  placed  not  so  high  up  the  river  as  a  former 
one.  It  consists  of  seven  arches.  An  unusual  number  of  coracles,  or  port¬ 
able  fishing  boats,  are  upon  this  river.  Principal  Jnn,  the  Black  Lion. 
This  town,  though  small,  is  governed  by  a  mayor,  two  bailiffs,  twelve 
common-council  men,  &c.  At  the  end  of  the  Broad  Street,  is  the  Gaol, 
erected  at  the  expense  of  the  county,  in  179^,  by  Mr.  Nash.  It  is  a 
handsome  building,  and  has  a  chapel  attached.  The  erection  formerly  used 
for  penal  purposes,  was  afterwards  converted  into  a  Poor-house.  The 
town  was  once  walled,  incorporated  by  Edward  I.,  and  confirmed  by  a 
charter  of  Henry  VI 11. 

The  Town  Hall,  finished  in  1797,  is  an  elegant  structure,  agreeably 
situated  on  the  northern  banks  of  the  river.  The  population,  in  1801, 
amounted  to  1911  inhabitants,  in  1831  to  2795. 

The  ruins  of  the  Castle  appear  on  a  low  cliff  at  the  foot  of  the  bridge, 
and  are  very  inconsiderable,  consisting  of  little  more  than  the  fragments 
of  two  circular  bastions,  overgrown  with  ivy,  although  once  a  large  and 
important  fortress.  Its  foundation  is  ascribed  to  Rhys  ab  Gryfydd,  prince 
of  South  Wales,  about  the  year  ll60,  who  also  fortified  the  town.  Powel 
says,  “  This  lord  was  a  faire  and  comlie  person,  honest  and  just  of  con¬ 
ditions,  beloved  of  his  friends,  and  feared  of  his  foes,  against  whom 
(especiallie  the  Flemings)  he  atchieved  diverse  victories.”  He  had  two  sons, 
Maelgwn  and  Gryffydd.  After  the  death  of  Rhys,  Gryffyth  his  sonne 
subdued  all  the  countrie  to  himself,  and  enjoyed  it  in  peace.”  This  fortress 
being  retaken  by  his  brother,  Maelgwn  united  with  Gwenwynwyn,  the  son 
of  Owen  Cy veiliog,  prince  of  Powys.  In  1 200,  finding  he  could  not  retain 
the  castle,  he  sold  it  to  the  Normans.  In  1215  the  garrison  delivered  it  to 
Llywelyn  ap  Jorwerth,  prince  of  N.  Wales.  In  1225,  this  fortress  was 
taken  by  Marshall,  earl  of  Pembroke;  at  whose  death,  in  1231,  it  reverted 
to  the  Welsh,  when  Maelgwn  ab  Maelgwn  ap  Rhys  put  the  inhabitants  to  the 
sword,  ravaged  the  town,  and  subsequently  razed  the  castle  to  the  ground  ; 
after  lying  in  ruins  for  nine  years,  Gilbert  Marshall  possessed  himself  of 
this  stronghold.  The  castle  and  ground  within  the  walls  afterwards  became 
the  property  of  John  Bowen,  Esq.,  who  has  erected  a  house  on  the  site  of 
the  keep,  the  dungeons  of  which  serve  for  cellars.  A  series  of  wars  and 
confusion  ill  accords  with  the  seclusion  of  monastic  institutions  ;  this  place 
therefore  contained  but  one  small  Priory,  which  formerly  stood  near  the 
river,  not  far  from  the  eastern  end  of  the  church.  It  was  inhabited  by 
black  monks  of  the  Benedictine  order,  subordinate  to  the  abbey  of  Chertsey 
in  Surrey.  This  was  subsequently  converted  into  an  elegant  villa,  which 


CARDIGAN. 


181 


once  belonged  to  James  Phillips ^  Esq.,  husband  of  Catherine  Phillips,  the 
Orinda  of  poetic  memory,  and  authoress  of  Letters  from  Orinda  to 
Poliarchus,”  i.  e.  Sir  Charles  Cotterell.  In  1774,  the  priory  estate  was 
sold  for  a  residue  of  700  years  to  Thomas  Johnes,  Esq.,  father  to  the  late 
Mr.  Johnes,  of  Hafod.  The  Market  is  on  Saturday.  The  Fairs  are  on 
February  13.,  April  5.,  for  horses  and  pedlary  ;  September  8.,  De¬ 
cember  I9.J  for  horses  and  black  cattle. 

The  Church  is  a  venerable  structure,  consisting  of  a  spacious  nave  and 
chancel,  having  an  embattled  tower  at  the  w.  end,  and  a  large  s.  porch. 
The  most  elegant  and  ancient  portion  is  the  chancel,  turretted  and  strengthened 
by  buttresses  which  terminate  in  light  Gothic  pinnacles  ;  the  windows  of  the 
florid-pointed  style.  It  was  erected  in  l63y,  and  the  body  rebuilt  in  1703. 
The  tower  fell  in  1705.  The  present  incumbent  is  the  Rev.  Griffith  Tho¬ 
mas.  Here  is  also  a  Free  Grammar  School,  endowed  about  1653,  by  Lady 
Letitia  Cornwallis  of  Abermarlais.  Patron,  the  mayor  and  corporation  ; 
present  master.  Rev.  D.  Evans.  Before  the  college  of  St.  David’s  was 
established  at  Lampeter,  candidates  for  holy  orders  were  received  from  this 
institution,  to  which  it  is  said  four  scholarships  are  attached,  but  are 
not  available.  Near  Cardigan,  in  the  year  1136,  the  English  army,  com¬ 
manded  by  Randolph  Earl  of  Chester  was  shamefully  worsted ;  the 
barons  Robert  Fitz  Roger,  and  Pain  Fitz  John,  with  3000  others,  were 
slain  on  the  spot,  and  a  great  number  drowned  by  the  fall  of  a  bridge. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Geological  Society  in  London,  held  on  the  7th  of 
November,  1832,  the  follovdng  notice  of  a  submarine  forest  in  Cardigan  Bay, 
by  the  Rev.  James  Yates,  M.A.,  F.G.  S.  and  'L.  S.  was  read.  It  extends 
along  the  coast  of  Merionethshire  and  Cardiganshire,  being  divided  into 
two  parts  by  the  estuary  of  the  river  Dovey,  which  separates  these  counties. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  land  side  by  a  sandy  beach,  and  by  a  wall  of  shingles. 
Beyond  this  wall  is  a  tract  of  bog  and  marsh,  formed  of  streams  of  water, 
which  are  partially  discharged  by  oozing  through  sand  and  shingles.  The 
author  argues  that  “  as  the  position  of  the  wall  is  liable  to  change,  it  may 
have  enclosed  the  part  which  is  now  submarine,  and  that  it  is  not  necessary 
to  suppose  a  subsidence  effected  by  submarine  agency.  The  remains  of  the 
forest  are  covered  by  a  bed  of  peat,  and  are  distinguished  by  an  abundance 
of  Pholas  Candida,  and  Teredo  Nivalis.  Among  the  trees  of  which  the 
forest  consisted,  is  the  Pinus  Sylvestris,  or  Scotch  fir  ;  and  it  is  shown  that 
this  tree  abounded  anciently  in  several  northern  counties  of  England. 

The  natural  order  of  the  Coniferse  may  thus  be  traced  from  the 
period  of  the  independent  coal  formation  to  the  middle  of  the  17th 
century,f although  the  Scotch  fir  is  excluded  from  the  native  Flora.  The 
amentaceous  wood  presents  matter  for  reflection  in  consequence  of  the 
perfect  preservation  of  its  vascular  structure,  while  the  contents  of  its  vessels 
are  entirely  dissipated.  The  tract  is  known  to  the  Welsh  under  the  name 
of  Cantref-y--Gwaelod,  i.  e.  the  Lowland  hundred.  The  author  refers  to 
the  Triads  of  Britain,  and  to  the  ancient  Welsh  testimonies,  which  prove 
that  it  was  submerged  about  a.t).  520,  and  ascribe  the  disaster  to  the  folly 
of  ‘  Seithenyn  the  drunkard,’  who  in  his  drink  let  the  sea  over  Cantref-y- 
Gwaelod.” 

By  the  exertions  of  a  few  well-disposed  individuals,  a  society  has  been 
formed  in  this  town,  for  the  suppression  of  vice,  but  more  especially  for  the 
total  abolition  of  matrimonial  infidelity.  No  sooner  is  any  one  suspected 
of  this  crime,  than  a  meeting  of  the  members  of  the  society  is  convened, 
and  the  subject  is  maturely  debated.  The  debate  generally  ends  in  a  large 

N  3 


182 


CARDIGAN. 


machine  being  ordered,  technically  called  CefFyl  Pren.”  On  some  ap¬ 
pointed  night,  this  machine  is  carried  through  the  principal  streets, 
accompanied  by  some  hundreds  of  persons,  singing  and  hooting.  They 
then  halt  near  the  suspected  person’s  house,  and  one  of  the  members 
mounts  the  CefFyl  Pren,”  and  harangues  the  assembly  at  great  length, 
stating  the  reasons  they  had  for  their  proceedings,  &c.  and  finally  concludes 
by  announcing  when  the  society  will  walk  again.  The  assembly  then,  after 
the  usual  groaning  and  bellowing,  &c.  disperse. 

An  Excursion  may  be  made  to  DogmaeTs  Priory,  or  Llan-dudoch, 
dedicated  to  the  patron  saint  Dogfael.  This  fragment  of  antiquity  is  much 
dilapidated,  and  produces  scarcely  any  picturesque  appearance  ;  the  portions 
which  remain  entire,  are  converted  into  barns,  sheds,  and  habitations  ;  the 
original  extent  of  the  church  is  discernible,  which  was  of  no  inconsiderable 
dimensions,  and  in  the  early  Gothic  style.  In  the  cemetery  adjoining  the 
ruin  and  the  village  church,  an  aged  yew  produces  a  characteristic  effect : 
and  here  the  scene,  finely  interspersed  with  wood  above  the  Teifi,  is  un¬ 
doubtedly  beautiful.  The  Priory  was  founded  for  the  reception  of  Bene¬ 
dictine  monks,  by  Martin  de  Turribus,  or  Tours,  one  of  the  military 
adventurers,  whom  the  Norman  William  turned  loose  upon  this  island,  to 
deluge  it  with  the  blood  of  its  native  proprietors.  He  landed  his  troops  at 
Fish-guard,  and  made  this  district  his  principal  residence,  called  in  British 
Llandydoc.  A  part  of  the  northern  transept  remains  in  which  are  two 
recesses,  and  some  rich  key-stones,  ornamented  with  a  winged  lion,  an 
angel  bearing  an  escutcheon  of  arms,  &;c.  In  the  adjoining  church,  on 
a  stone  tablet  is  the  following  inscription:  Hic  Jacet  Johannes  Brad¬ 
shaw  ARMIGER,  QUI  OBIIT  ULTIMO  DIE  MaII,  ANNO  DOMINI  1588.”  An¬ 
other  stone  mentioned  by  Camden,  still  exists,  and  served  as  a  passage  over 
a  gutter  leading  to  the  parsonage. 

With  the  village  of  St.  Dogmael’s,  almost  every  traveller  is  enraptured. 
The  cottages  are  embowered  with  wood  ;  the  background  is  composed 
of  majestic  hills  under  cultivation  ;  and  the  silvery  river  glides  along  below. 

The  road  to  Cilgerran,  by  land,  is  circuitous;  if,  however,  the  tide 
permit,  an  aquatic  excursion  may  be  easily  made,  which  would  amply  com¬ 
pensate  the  extra  trouble  and  expense.  The  Teifi,  above  Cardigan,  be¬ 
comes  environed  by  lofty  hills,  the  approaching  bases  of  which  contract 
the  bed  of  the  river,  changing  its  character  from  a  broad  and  majestic,  to 
an  impetuous  eddying  stream.  The  sides  of  these  eminences  rise  from  the 
water  almost  perpendicularly,  yet  are  clothed  with  verdure  from  the  river’s 
brink  to  their  ridgy  summits.  In  the  midst  of  this  embowered  glen,  a 
tremendous  naked  rock,  crowned  with  the  truly  picturesque  remains  of 
Cilgerran  Castle,  stands  pre-eminent,  forming  a  striking  contrast  to  the 
dark  rich  verdure  which  prevails  in  the  other  accompaniments  of  the  river. 
The  beauties  of  this  spot  attracted  the  attention  of  our  great  English  land¬ 
scape  painter,  Wilson,  and  were  introduced  into  more  than  one  of  his 
compositions.  The  ruin  consists  principally  of  two  circular  towers,  with 
part  of  a  gateway,  finely  mantled  with  ivy. 

When  at  Cardigan,  Mr,  Wyndham  employed  the  custom-house  boat,  as 
a  conveyance  to  the  tin.works  above  Cilgerran.  In  his  passage,  the 
charming  Teifi  presented,  at  every  turn,  new  beauties.  To  Lampeter  a 
great  sameness  of  ascent  and  descent  prevails. 

On  the  road  to  Newcastle  Emlyn,  near  Llangoedmawr ,  is  a  large  hill, 
called  Careg~Mawr,  of  which  Giraldus  says,  IJpon  this  spot,  Gryffyth, 
son  of  Rhys  ap  Theodor,  soon  after  the  death  of  Henry  I.,  by  a  furious 
onset,  gained  a  signal  victory  against  the  English  army,  which,  by  the 


CARDIGAN. 


183 


murder  of  the  illustrious  Richard  de  Clare^  near  Abergavenny^  had  lost  its 
leader  and  chief.”  A  tumulus  is  still  remaining  upon  this  hill^  with  some 
appearance  of  an  intrenchment ;  beside  a  cataract^  near  a  farm  called  Tre- 
vorgan,  is  St.  Cynllo’s  Cave,  where,  tradition  says,  he  prayed,  &c.  The 
Church  of  Llangoedmawr  is  dedicated  to  St.  Cynllo,  the  son  of  Mor  ab 
Cenon  ab  Coel  Godebog.  It  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel  almost  equal  in 
length,  between  which  a  small  steeple  has  been  erected.  It  is  a  rectory  in 
the  gift  of  the  Lord  Chancellor.  Llangoedmawr  Place  commands  a  most 
delightful  view  of  the  Teifi,  the  town  of  Cardigan,  and  village  of  St.  Dog- 

mael’s.  It  was  erected  in  I76O  by  - - Lloyd,  Esq.  of  Plymouth,  now  the 

property  of  the  Rev.  B.  Millingchamp.  Coedmawr  lies  upon  the  banks  of 
the  Teifi,  two  miles  from  Cardigan.  It  derives  its  appellation  from  the 
handsome  and  extensive  wood  in  which  it  is  embosomed ;  and  is  situated 
I  m.  N.  of  Llangoedmawr.  It  formerly  belonged  to  the  Clermont  family. 
Sir  Robert  Langley  had  it  in  gift  from  the  Langleys  under  Edward  III.  ; 
it  then  became  the  property  of  Llywelyn,  son  of  Roger  Mortimer  in 
exchange  for  Genau’r-glyn.  This  estate  at  length  passed  into  the  Lloyd 
family,  from  the  great  grandfather  of  Thomas  Lloyd,  Esq.,  on  marrying 
the  daughter  of  Colonel  James  Lewis,  who  had  exchanged  Coedmawr 
with  his  brother-in-law.  Sir  John  Lewis,  for  Castell  Llwyd  near  Llaugharn. 
A  mile  and  a  half  to  the  e.,  on  quitting  the  river  and  meeting  it  again,  is 
LlechrJiyd,  where  an  ancient  bridge,  thrown  over  the  Teifi,  and  covered 
with  ivy,  presents  an  agreeable  combination.  The  tide  flows  to  this  place. 
On  the  Carmarthenshire  side  of  the  river,  and  close  to  this  bridge,  are  the 
mansion-house  grounds,  and  tin-plate  manufactory  of  Sir  Benjamin  Hamet. 
The  living  of  Llechrhyd  is  a  perpetual  curacy  in  the  gift  of  the  prebend. 
It  consists  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  transept.  In  this  parish  is  an  old  dis¬ 
senting  meeting-house,  said  to  have  been  built  by  Major  \Tade,  one  of 
Ohver  Cromwell’s  troopers. 

On  a  wide  and  irregular  route  to  Newcastle  Emlyn,  the  foregoing 
places  may  be  visited  with  the  following.  Llaindygwy  takes  its  name  from 
Tygwy  ab  Dingad,  and  wife  of  Cunedda  Wledig,  a  primitive  saint.  In 
Gwent,  a  church  is  dedicated  to  her,  on  the  spot  where  she  fell  a  sacrifice 
to  pagan  barbarity.  The  edifice  was  rebuilt  at  an  expense  of  300/. 
Lwyndyris  attached  to  the  bishopric  of  St.  David’s  till  the  year  1800,  when 
it  was  sold  to  redeem  the  land-tax.  The  mansion  stands  upon  an  elevated 
spot,  overlooking  the  Teifi.  The  moated  site  of  the  original  edifice  appears 
in  the  grounds.  One  mile  and  a  half  northward  is  Blaen-pant,  an  elegant 
mansion  surrounded  by  thriving  plantations,  formerly  belonging  to  a  family 
named  Jenkins  :  afterwards  it  became  the  property  of  Colonel  Owen  Brig- 
stocke.  There  is  here  a  valuable  library,  from  which  the  antiquary  Dr. 
James  Phillips,  it  is  supposed,  benefited  much  in  his  researches.  He 
resided  here  ten  or  twelve  years,  during  the  minority  of  Colonel  Brigstocke’s 
father,  and  corresponded  with  Lewis  Morris,  Dr.  Pegga,  &c.  Penywenallt 
was  formerly  the  residence  of  Evan  Griffith  Evans,  named  Captain  Tory, 
who  for  his  king  fought  and  bled.  Two  of  his  grandchildren  were  Captain 
John  Evans,  grandfather  of  the  subsequent  possessor  John  Griffiths,  Esq.; 
and  the  Rev.  Theophilus  Evans,  the  antiquary.  Stradmore,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Teifi,  was  merely  a  farm-house,  till  Mr.  Green,  brother-in-law  to 
Colonel  Brigstocke,  of  Blaen-pant,  purchased  it,  and  erected  on  its  site  the 
present  very  elegant  mansion.  It  passed  to  Mr.  Steel,  of  D61,  and  R.  W. 
Leslie,  Esq.,  who  added  to  the  place  considerable  magnificence.  Near 
Cenarth  Bridge,  is  a  remarkable  salmon  leap.  Close  to  the  cataract  is  a 
pool,  twelve  yards  in  circumference,  formed  by  the  projection  of  the  rock, 

N  4 


184  CARDIGAN. 

where  salmon  when  foiled  in  mounting  the  cataract^  repose_,  but  are  generally 
tahen  by  nets. 

To  Aberaeron,  on  the  way  to  Aberystwith_,  at  the  4th  m.^  is  Tre- 
main.  The  Church  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel^  communicating  by  a 
pointed  arch.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy.  There  is  a  ford  in  this 
parish  called  Rhyd-won-wn-verch^  said  to  have  been  poisoned  by  a  maiden 
to  destroy  a  hostile  army.  At  the  6th  m.  is  Blaen-porth,  situated  in  a 
district  formerly  called  Cardigan  Is-coed.  In  the  year  1114^  GryfFydd  ab 
Cynan^  prince  of  N.  Wales^  came  to  this  place  and  laid  siege  to  a  fort 
which  Earl  Gilbert  and  the  Flemings  had  built  at  Blaen-Porth-Gwyddan. 
Near  the  road-side,  in  this  parish,  is  an  old  entrenchment,  in  complete 
preservation,  called  Gaer.”  The  mound  of  the  Keep  still  remains,  with 
other  intrenchments.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  dedicated  to  St. 
David.  The  building  contains  a  nave  and  a  chancel,  with  a  bell  at  the  end 
of  the  roof.  Pass  Nant-y-deryn.  Further  on  is  a  road  to  the  L,  to  Aber- 
porth  ;  to  the  r.,  another  road,  about  2  ni.  distant,  is  Bettws-efan,  a 
chapel  of  ease  in  the  parish  of  Penbryn,  dedicated  to  St.  John.  Bettws” 
is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  the  Latin  Beatus”  or  blessed  ;  others 
consider  it  a  corruption  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  ‘^bead-house,”  At  the  7th 
m.,  occurs  Bwlch-y-groes  ;  near  which,  close  to  the  road,  is  an  old  British 
encampment,  called  Castell  NadoUg,  very  large,  and  double-trenched.  In 
1788,  a  paved  road  passed  a  mile  north  from  the  old  entrenchment, 
constructed  of  very  large  stones  10  feet  wide.  ^  m.  further  is  Temple  Bar  ; 
Pwllglds,  1  m. ;  im.  to  the  n.  is  Dyvrhynt  Hwnant,  or  the  desirable  valley, 
once  the  property  of  the  Vaughans  ;  afterwards,  it  belonged  to  Albany 
W allis.  Esq.,  and  then  became  the  possession  of  Colonel  Bailey  W allis. 
[At  the  10^  m.  is  a  road  to  the  left  to  Llangrannog,  which  lies  on  the  sea¬ 
side.  On  the  top  of  a  high  hill  near  the  harbour,  is  a  fragment  of  a  rock 
resembling  a  chair,  called  Eisteddfa,  probably  once  a  rendezvous  of 
the  old  bards.  On  another  hill  is  a  tumulus  called  Moel  Badell.  The 
living  is  a  vicarage,  in  the  gift  of  the  bishop  of  St.  David’s,  founded  by 
Carannog,  a  son  of  Ceredig,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  chancel.  Over  the 
w.  door,  are  the  remains  of  an  ornamented  gallery  ;  the  steps  of  the  rood 
loft  still  appear.  Lear  Llangrannog  is  Pigeons  Ford,  or  Rhyd  Clynonog, 
the  seat  of  George  Price,  Esq.]  Half  a  mile  further,  is  the  New  Inn.  At 
the  12th  m.,  Wirfilbrook  appears  on  the  L,  called  in  Welsh  Fynnon 
Werfel,  or  Fynnawn-gwyrfill,  “the  brook  of  the  1000  men.”  The  mansion 
was  built  by  the  late  Rev.  David  Turner,  who  bequeathed  it  with  about 
380  acres  to  his  widow,  of  whom  it  was  purchased  by  his  brother  the 
Rev.  Lewis  Turner,  in  1802.  The  same  year  the  proprietor  removed  a  heap 
of  stones  on  Tyll-coed,  a  farm  belonging  to  that  estate,  which  covered  an 
area  of  about  14  feet,  and  rose  about  a  foot  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  Here  he  discovered  eleven  urns  of  baked  earth,  containing  ashes, 
with  a  small  pot,  about  the  size  of  half  a  pint,  having  its  bottom  nearly 
globular,  and  on  one  side  three  small  holes.  Only  one  was  preserved,  the 
rest  crumbled  to  pieces.  In  two  fields,  about  a  mile  distant  from  this,  are 
three  carneddau  of  the  same  kind.  The  farm  of  Wirfilbrook  is  said  to 
be  most  judiciously  planned.  Passing  Fynnon  Ddewi,  the  head  of  a 
stream  which  falls  into  the  sea,  for  the  space  of  ^  m.  to  the  1.  is  the  road 
to  Llandyssilio  Gogo^'jor  Gogofau,  signifying  “caves;”  yet  none  are  dis¬ 
cernible  near  the  place.  The  church  was  founded  by  Tysilio.  See 
Newcastle  in  Emlyn.  To  the  r.  is  a  road  which  leads  to  the  Clettwr. 
Passing  Bhyd-y-bumper,  reach  Gelli-fach,  at  the  l6th  m.,  where  there 
is  a  road  on  the  1.  to  the  Cross  Inn,  and  Llanllwchaiarn  or  Llanychaiarn. 


CARDIGAN. 


185 


The  parish  of  Llanychaiarn  is  situated  on  the  sea-side^  which  bounds  it  on 
the  w.,  the  Ystwith  flows  on  the  n.  and  e.  The  churchy  founded  by 
Llanwchaiarnj  stands  delightfully  upon  an  eminence,  above  a  beautiful 
curve  of  the  river,  flanked  on  each  side  by  venerable  oaks.  It  appears 
ancient;  and  the  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy  in  the  gift  of  the  Chichester 
family.  It  contains  several  monuments.  At  the  17th  m.  is  Pen-dawdd- 
y-ffin;  1|  m.  further  is  Llanarch,  an  extensive  parish,  divided  into  six 
hamlets.  The  church,  dedicated  to  St.  David,  stands  upon  the  summit  of 
a  high  hill,  on  the  w.  side  of  the  river,  which  falls  into  the  sea  at  Llan 
Ina.  It  is  an  elegant  structure,  consisting  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  massive 
high  tower,  with  some  good  monuments.  The  living  is  a  vicarage  with 
the  enjoyment  of  the  whole  of  the  tithes.  It  is  in  the  gift  of  St.  David’s, 
and  estimated  at  500/.  per  annum.  In  the  yard  of  the  s.  side  of  the  church 
is  an  ancient  stone,  bearing  a  cross,  on  which  was  an  inscription  now 
nearly  defaced  ;  NRI  —  C  only  are  distinct.  It  is  4  ft.  6  in.  above  the 
ground,  and  2  ft.  10  in.  broad.  In' this  parish  is  a  very  large  square 
entrenchment,  called  Castel  Moeddyn  ;  and  on  a  farm  called  Pen-foel,  is 
another,  called  Pen-y-gaer.  Upon  a  large  heath  is  a  tumulus  of  earth 
called  Crug-Coy.  The  village  of  New  Quay  lies  on  the  sea-shore  in  this 
parish,  where  there  is  a  small  pier  almost  in  ruins,  and  a  well  sheltered 
road  for  shipping.  It  has  a  good  outlet,  but  a  perch  is  much  wanted  at 
the  end  of  the  ground  called  Carreg  Ina.  On  the  r.  Noyadd.  At  Bargoed, 
cross  a  brook,  soon  after  a  second,  and  at  Ffos-y-ffyn,  the  Boundary  of  the 
Ditch,”  another.  On  the  1.  is  Hen-fynyw,  that  is,  Old  Menevia,”  the  place 
where  St.  David  was  educated.  The  church  consists  simply  of  a  nave  and 
chancel ;  the  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  in  the  gift  of  the  bishop  of  St. 
David’s.  About  ^  m.  further  on  the  road  is  a  shorter  track  to  Aberaeron, 
fit  only  for  the  pedestrian.  Other  travellers  should  turn  to  the  1.  at  the 
next  cross  road. 

On  the  high  road  to  Newport,  cross  the  Teifi,  to  St.  Dogmael's,  A.  A. 
Gower,  Esq.  (1-|  m.  from  St.  Dogmael’s,  is  Castel  Maelgwyn,  John  Hammet, 
Esq. ;  4im.  from  the  same  place  is  Pantyderyj  J.  Bowen,  Esq.)  j  Velindre 

m.  :  near  this  place  is  Llwyngwair,  G.  Bowen,  Esq. 

To  Haverfordwest,  nearly  in  a  direct  line,  and  not  through  Cilger- 
ran  and  St.  David’s,  occurs  the  village  of  Pant-grundy ,  1  m.  5  fur, ;  Cawsau 
Llantfody  5  fur.;  Llantwyd,  5  fur.;  Cross  Inn,  1  m.  5  fur.;  and  Bridell, 
where  the  cultivated  enclosures  contrast  agreeably  with  the  ragged  prospect  of 
three  mountains  in  front.  That  on  the  r.  near  the  sea,  is  the  mountain 
above  Newport ;  the  middle  is  Precelly,  and  at  the  eastern  extremity  occurs 
Brenin-fawr.  A  little  beyond,  four  roads  meet  this  towards  Cardigan, 
the  road  on  the  r.  to  Newport,  that  on  the  1.  to  Newcastle  in  Emlyn,  and 
the  road  over  Precelly  mountain  to  Haverfordv/est.  Just  here  is  the  neat 
and  pleasing  village  of  Eglwyserw,  1  m.  where  is  a  banker  and  bookseller. 
Panly-garn,  m.  At  Pont  gunnon  the  river  Nevern  relieves,  for  a 
moment,  the  dreariness  of  the  scene.  The  last  plot  of  cultivation  ex¬ 
tends  to  Hendre  Gate,  ^  m.,  which  is  the  entrance  of  the  Precelly  mountain. 
Immediately  beyond  Pont  Brynberian,  I  m.  3  fur.,  crosses  the  brook  Biron, 
but  the  ascent  does  not  become  laborious  till  you  arrive  at  Tafarn-y~ 
Bwlch,  at  some  distance.  It  is  not  painfully  steep,  but  tedious  from  its 
extent.  This  mountain  is  the  centre  of  a  Iqng  ridge,  running  e,  and  w. 
The  prospect  from  the  summit  is  very  extensive.  At  the  commencement 
of  the  descent  on  the  opposite  side,  is  the  JVew  Inn,  4J  m. ;  about  half 
way  between  Cardigan  and  Haverfordwest.  The  highest  peak  of  the 
mountain  is  Foel-cwm-gerwyn  or  Precelly  mountain,  e.  of  the  New  Inn. 


CAREW. 


186 


Continuing  this  descend  come  in  sight  of  Llanfernach  mountain.  These 
high  grounds  to  the  1.  intercept  entirely  the  view  of  Carmarthen^  though 
situated  very  near  ;  but  the  Bay  is  distinctly  discerned_,  and  Gower  beyond. 
After  reaching  the  bottom  of  the  mountain_,  the  road  continues  over  a  flat 
country,  as  far  as  Scollock  Cross,  where  it  begins  to  be  well  cultivated.  At 
Froghole,  beyond,  there  is  an  appearance  of  an  extensive  population. 
Cornelach,  3  m. ;  Withy  Bush  Lodge,  6  m. ;  Crundal,  1  m.  1  fur. ;  Stevens- 
ford,  ^  ra. ;  Prendergast  Place,  1  m.,  was  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Stepneys. 
Dr.  Johnson  says  that  the  poet  of  that  name  was  descended  from  this  family. 
One  of  this  line  married  Vandyke’s  daughter.  Haverfordwest,  §  m.  — 
B.  H.  Malkin. 


To  Cilgerran,  3  miles.  Barber  j  Malkin  ;  Evans ; 
Skrine;  Warner. 

Aberaeron,  22  miles.  Wyndham’s  1st  tour. 
Up  the  Teifi  to  Cilgerran  Iron-works,  5  miles, 
thence  to  Lampeter,  24  miles.  Wyndham’s 
2d  tour. 


To  Newcastle  Emlyn,  10  miles.  Lipscomb. 
Aberystwith,  39  miles. 

Haverfordwest,  26  miles. 

Newport,  Pem.,  lOJ  miles. 

Lampeter,  29  miles. 


CAREW. 

From  Monorbeer  Castle,  5  miles.  Barber.  From  Llaugharne,  by  way  of  St.  Clare,  20  miles. 

Narberth,  8  miles.  Donovan.  Wyndham. 

Haverfordwest,  down  the  river.  Fenton. 

CAREW  CASTLE,  in  Pembrokeshire,  formerly  the  residence  of  great 
characters,  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  features  in  the  county,  exhibiting 
the  ruins  of  a  magnificent  pile,  which  rank  among  the  most  beautiful  and 
interesting  in  the  principality.  The  name  may  have  been  corrupted  from 
Caerau,  several  British  fortifications  being  in  the  vicinity.  It  was  one  of 
the  royal  demesnes  belonging  to  the  princes  of  South  W ales,  and,  with  seven 
others,  was  given  as  a  dowry  with  Nest,  daughter  of  Rhys  ap  Tewdwr,  to 
Gerald  de  Windsor,  who  was  appointed  lieutenant  of  those  parts  by  Henry  L 
His  son  William  assumed  the  name  of  Carew,  and  this  castle  passed  subse¬ 
quently  into  the  possession  of  various  branches  of  that  family.  In  1644  it  was 
garrisoned  for  the  king,  and  held  out  a  long  siege.  The  noble  edifice  is 
situated  upon  a  neck  of  land  washed  by  the  tide  of  two  estuaries,  with  a 
gentle  fall  towards  the  water,  and  consists  of  a  superb  range  of  apartments, 
round  a  quadrangle,  with  an  immense  bastion  at  each  corner,  containing 
elegant  rooms,  of  which  almost  every  one  had  a  chimney-piece  of  wrought 
freestone.  Some  of  these  have  been  carried  off,  and  others  destroyed.  The 
barbican  maybe  traced  through  the  portcullised  gateway  pass,  a  grand  entry 
into  the  great  court,  or  inner  ballium.  The  ground  rooms  of  the  n.  front 
contain  nobly  magnificent  windows,  lighting  the  great  state  apartment,  102 
feet  long  by  20.  On  the  e.  side,  over  the  chimney-piece,  there  is  an 
escutcheon  bearing  the  royal  arms,  perhaps  in  compliment  to  Henry  VII., 
who  is  said  to  have  been  entertained  and  lodged  here  by  Sir  Rhys  ap  Thomas 
on  his  progress  to  Bosworth  Field.  A  handsome  suite  of  rooms  is  included 
in  an  octagonal  tower  to  the  right  of  the  grand  entrance.  The  s.w.  side  of 
the  castle  shows  old  turrets  of  various  height,  diameter,  and  form.  The 
whole  N.  side  is  very  majestic,  ending  in  the  return  of  a  bastion  to  the  e. 
The  style  of  this  structure  is  of  various  eras.  According  to  Leland,  Sir 
Rhys  ap  Thomas  remodelled  the  whole,  and  enlarged  it.  To  the  s,  of  the 
castle  was  a  very  extensive  deer  park.  In  part  of  this  ground,  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  castle,  Sir  Rhys,  being  a  Knight  of  the  Garter,  and  un¬ 
able  to  attend  his  sovereign,  held  a  tilt  and  tournament,  with  other  warlike 
pastimes  on  St.  George’s  day.  On  this  occasion  he  entertained,  with  sumptu- 


CAREVF. 


187 

ous  hospitality^  600  of  the  leading  nobility  and  gentry  of  the  neighbour¬ 
hood  for  a  whole  week.  (See  the  Cambrian  Register  for  1797^  p.  125.) 
Opposite  the  entrance  into  the  lawn  before  the  castle,  just  without  the  wall, 
and  on  the  roadside  leading  to  Carew  church  and  village,  is  a  perfect  cross, 
of  the  shape  usually  called  St.  Catherine.  The  circular  head  is  fixed  into  a 
tall  shaft,  ornamented  with  scrolls  and  tracery  ;  near  the  centre  is  an  ille¬ 
gible  inscription.  The  Church  of  St.John  Baptist  lies  about  i  m.  to  the 
s.E.  of  the  castle,  in  a  spacious  cemetery,  and  is  a  large  and  venerable  struc¬ 
ture,  having  a  nave,  chancel,  two  aisles,  and  a  north  transept,  with  a  lofty 
square  embattled  tower.  The  nave  is  separated  from  the  aisles  by  pointed 
arches,  resting  on  plain  columns.  The  chancel  is  large  and  paved  with 
bricks,  ornamented  with  pious  mottos  and  coats  of  arms.  In  the  s.  aisle, 
to  the  right  of  the  door,  are  the  effigies  of  a  crusader  and  a  priest,  without 
date  or  inscription ;  probably  removed  from  two  recesses  in  the  chancel.  The 
N.  transept  seems  to  have  been  appropriated  as  a  mausoleum  to  the  castle. 
The  only  monument  in  this  family-chapel  is  an  altar-tomb,  bearing  the 
recumbent  figures  of  Sir  John  Carew  and  his  wife,  dated  1687-  At  the  w. 
end  of  the  churchyard  is  a  neat  old  detached  edifice,  coeval  in  style  with  the 
church  ;  it  is  occasionally  used  as  a  parochial  school,  supported  by  voluntary 
contribution.  Exactly  opposite  the  church,  separated  only  by  the  road,  a 
handsome  arched  gateway  leads  to  the  Rectory,  It  was  a  large  irregular 
building,  now  unroofed,  and  in  ruins.  This  living  is  valuable,  and  a  dis¬ 
charged  vicarage,  in  the  diocese  of  St.  David’s.  Within  this  parish  are 
Melton  House,  W.  Bowen,  Esq.  ,*  Freestone  Hall,  J.  Allen,  Esq. ;  Wilsdon, 
George  Downe,  Esq.,  on  the  site  of  which  Cromwell  took  up  his  quarters 
when  besieging  Pembroke  Castle.  Excellent  limestone  and  an  inferior  coal 
occur  in  this  parish,  which  contains  1020  inhabitants. 

Mr.  Fenton  here  changed  his  course,  in  favour  of  a  return  to  Haverford¬ 
west.  He  repassed  the  castle  by  a  narrow  bridge,  over  the  upper  part  of 
the  N.  estuary  which  bounds  its  walls,  and  after  crossing  a  common,  upon 
which  is  the  appearance  of  several  earns,  arrived  at  Cresselley,  the  elegant 
seat  of  John  Allen,  Esq.  who  retired  from  the  forum  with  a  fine  fortune, 
enjoying  with  his  sisters  the  otium  cum  dignitate.  The  mansion  stands 
upon  an  elevation  surrounded  by  a  plantation  and  coal  mines.  The  front 
looks  down  Cresswell  (or  Christ’s-well)  river  to  Lawrenny  and  its  woods. 
Hothouses,  and  all  the  appendages  of  modern  luxury,  form  the  accom¬ 
paniments  of  this  edifice.  Take  a  boat  at  Cresswell,  descend  with  the  tide, 
and  Lawrenny  to  the  r.,  proceed  down  the  haven  as  far  as  the  Fort,  The 
spot  upon  which  it  stands  is  called  Patrick  Church,  and  was  purchased  by 
the  crown  for  the  purpose  of  fortification.  Above  the  flat,  which  forms  the 
base  under  a  gentle  elevation,  there  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  mansion, 
once  the  residence  of  David  de  Patrick  Church.  The  Carrs,  a  ridge  of 
rocky  ground,  stretch  almost  across  Milford  Haven,  from  Patrick  Church 
towards  Llanstadwell,  but  do  not  appear  at  low-water  neap  tides.  Lewis 
Morris,  in  his  survey,  recommends  a  pier  of  stones  to  be  made  upon  the 
Carrs,  which  would  form,  to  the  e.  of  it,  a  harbour  not  to  be  equalled  in 
Great  Britain.  Almost  opposite  is  Neyland,  where  formerly  sugars  from 
Ireland  were  discharged.  At  this  place  was  a  salt  refinery,  and  about  the 
year  1776  a  dockyard,  where  a  74  and  a  frigate  were  built.  Morris  has 
asserted,  that  here  might  be  made  a  wet  dock  1|  m.  in  length,  where  vessels 
might  lie  in  4,  6,  or  8  fathoms  of  water.  A  little  lower,  upon  the  same 
side,  is  a  roadstead,  called  Hazel-beach,  where,  as  George  Owen  expresses 
it,  there  is  good  rydinge  for  shippes  and  good  ankre  howlde.”  This 
road  extends  from  Llanstadwell  to  Newton  Weare.  Newton  was  once  the 


188 


CAREW. 


residence  of  the  princely  family  of  Craddoc^  lineally  descended  from  Howel 
Dda.  The  place^  enlivened  by  delightful  views  on  the  harbour^  is  the 
residence  of  Lewis  Child,,  Esq.  The  soil  here  is  excellent. 

Mr.  Fenton  having  to  wait  the  return  of  the  tide,  visited  the  churches  of 
Llanstadwell  and  Burton,  but  found  nothing  worthy  of  remark.  Resuming 
his  floating  conveyance,  he  repassed  Llawrenny ,  where  large  vessels  take  in 
coal  and  culm,  brought  in  barges  from  Cresswell  Quay.  Here  agohi  Benton 
Castle  appears  a  pleasing  object.  Gliding  with  the  tide,  enter  the  Cleddeu, 
and  land  opposite  to  Llandshipping  quay,  at  the  place  where  passengers  take 
the  ferry-boat ;  walk  through  beautiful  woods  to  Ficton  Castle,  the  seat  of 
Sir  Richard  B.  P.  Philipps,  Bart.,  which,  on  this  side  appears  to  much 
advantage ;  as  a  castellated  building,  however,  an  approach,  from  the  e.  is 
far  superior,  Mr.  Fenton’s  style  glows  with  animation  when  describing 
this  spot.  It  would  be  an  insult,”  he  exclaims,  ‘‘  to  Picton  Castle,  to 
estimate  its  consequence  and  its  beauties  by  a  scale  employed  to  measure 
modern  villas,  the  works  of  a  Brown  or  a  Nash,  by  a  few  formal  clumps  dis¬ 
posed  so  as  to  admit  a  glimpse  of  a  distant  horse-pond,  the  ruins  of  a  windmill, 
a  kennel  in  the  mask  of  a  church,  and  bits  of  gothic  injudiciously  stuck  here 
and  there  like  patches  on  the  face,  producing  deformity.  If  such  things 
constitute  a  fine  place,  every  mushroom  citizen  of  yesterday  may  command 
them.  But  Picton  Castle  owes  its  beauties  to  circumstances  that  wealth 
cannot  supply,  or  titles  confer  ;  circumstances  that  age,  and  an  unbroken 
line  of  ancestry  in  its  possessors,  have  given  value  to,  and  have  made  vener¬ 
able  ;  an  ancient  structure  that  nothing  can  so  much  disfigure  as  an  attempt 
to  modernise  and  make  less  so  ;  a  castle  (and  I  believe  a  solitary  instance), 
never  forfeited,  never  deserted,  never  vacant ;  that  never  knew  a  melancholy 
blank  in  its  want  of  a  master,  from  whose  walls  hospitality  was  never  exiled, 
and  whose  governors  might  be  said  to  have  been  hereditary  ;  a  castle  in  the 
midst  of  possessions  and  forests  coeval  with  itself,  and  proudly  looking  down 
over  a  spacious  domain,  on  woods  of  every  after  growth,  to  an  inland  sea, 
hounding  its  properties  and  its  prospects  beyond  them;  for  such  is  Picton 
Castle.  A  beautiful  print  of  this  structure  appears  in  Fenton  s  Tour,  p.278, 
drawn  by  Carter,  engraved  by  Greig,  and  contributed  to  the  work  by  the 
proprietor  of  the  castle.  This  building  appears  to  have  been  oblong, flanked 
with  six  large  bastions,  three  on  each  side,  with  a  narrow  projection  ter¬ 
minating  in  two  bastions  of  smaller  dimensions  at  the  e.  end,  between  which 
was  the  grand  portcullised  entrance,  now  contracted  into  a  doorway.  It 
was  evidently  moated  round,  and  approached  by  a  drawbridge,  now  sup¬ 
plied  by  a  raised  flagged  terrace,  between  low  parapets.  About  the  year 
1800,  Lord  Milford  made  an  addition  to  the  w.  end  of  two  magnificent  rooms, 
but  the  externals  of  his  improvements  assimilate  ill  with  the  ancient  part  of 
the  structure.  The  gardens,  hothouses  and  hot  walls  are  very  extensive. 
The  park,  now  destitute  of  deer,  is  large  and  richly  wooded.  Some  charm¬ 
ing  walks  have  been  made  to  wind  above  the  river,  with  seats  frequently 
occurring,  and  a  hermitage  forms  a  pleasing  feature.  A  little  above  this 
walk,  upon  a  projecting  point  of  land,  is  an  old  encampment,  called  Castle 
Lake,  having  a  high  agger  to  the  w,,a  deep  ravine  on  the  n.e.  and  s.w.  sides, 
and  a  precipitous  rock  facing  the  river.  Upon  the  most  elevated  spot  in  the 
park  stands  a  handsome  belvidere.  A  little  to  the  s.  w.  of  the  gardens,  for¬ 
merly  stood  the  town  where  the  lord’s  vassals  in  the  feudal  age  were  dis¬ 
tributed  so  near  him  as  to  be  within  sound  of  his  war-horn.  Lord  Milford 
was  8th  in  descent  from  Sir  Thomas  Phillips,  of  Cilsant,  the  first  of  his 
name  who  resided  at  Picton  Castle,  which  he  had  in  right  of  his  wife  Jane, 
daughter  and  heir  of  Sir  Henry  Donn,  son  of  Owen  Donn,  by  Catherine, 


CAREW. 


189 

daughter  and  heir  of  Sir  John  Wogan_,  great  grandson  of  Sir  John  Wogan^ 
who  married  Joan,  daughter  and  heir  of  Sir  William  de  Picton,  whose 
ancestor,  a  Norman,  came  to  Dyvedor,  Pembrokeshire,  with  Arnulph  de 
Montgomery,  and  had  this  district  as  his  share  of  the  new  conquest,  giving 
it  his  own  name. 

Lord  Milford  possessed  a  fine  cabinet  of  drawings  by  some  of  the  first 
masters,  chiefly  collected  by  his  uncle,  Sir  Erasmus  Philipps,  when  in  Italy. 
Proceed  along  the  walk  before  mentioned  to  Slebech,  the  property  of  the 
Baron  de  Rutzen,  by  marriage,  with  the  heiress  of  thelate  Nathaniel  Philipps, 
Esq.,  a  spot  remarkable  as  having  once  been  a  commandery  of  the  Knights  of 
St.  John  of  Jerusalem.  These  were  originally  a  gang  of  beggars  supported 
by  charity,  but  afterwards  they  became  respectable.  To  be  qualifled  for  this 
order,  the  person  was  to  be  18  years  of  age  at  least,  of  able  body,  not  de¬ 
scended  from  Jew  or  Turk,  no  bastard,  except  by  a  prince,  there  being 
honour  in  that  dishonour  !  (See  a  history  of  these  knights  in  Fenton  s 
Tour^  p.  255 — 291*)  Not  a  trace  is  left  of  any  building  coeval  with  this 
ancient  commandery  except  the  Church,  dedicated  to  St.John  Baptist,  a 
venerable,  though  not  a  large,  building.  It  has  a  tower,  and  consists  of 
a  nave,  chancel,  and  transepts.  The  living  is  a  vicarage.  Upon  the  s. 
wall,  near  the  communion  table,  a  black  marble  tablet  bears  a  punning  epi¬ 
taph  in  Latin,  inscribed  with  the  name  of  G.  Barlov/,  June  19.  1591.  Near 
this,  on  the  same  side,  under  a  rich  canopy  inlaid  with  white  marble,  are 
two  recumbent  figures  in  alabaster,  probably  of  the  Barlow  family.  On 
the  N.  side  of  the  chancel  is  an  elegant  mural  monument  of  marble,  to  Anne, 
wife  of  John  Barlow,  Esq.,  1731.  The  church  is  entered  by  a  porch, 
over  which  is  an  escutcheon  of  arms  in  freestone.  The  mansion  of  Slehech 
is  an  elegant  substantial  and  comparatively  modern  mansion,  forming  a 
quadrangle  of  noble  elevation,  with  every  appendage  of  luxury.  The 
pleasure  grounds  are  finely  laid  out,  the  gardens  are  extensive,  abounding 
with  tropical  fruits  and  flowers.  Upon  an  eminence  to  the  n.  of  the  house 
stands  a  square  building ;  over  the  entrance  is  inscribed  Envies  despite,” 
Opposite  the  house  are  considerable  ruins  of  a  respectable  mansion,  erected 
by  the  brother  of  the  Barlow  who  resided  at  Slehech.  A  little  beyond, 
upon  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  is  the  church  and  village  of  Minwear,  much 
depopulated.  Pass  over  a  new  road  through  beautiful  woods,  to  the  ruins 
of  the  New  House,  a  large  pile  of  excellent  masonry.  There  is  a  small 
church  near.  By  another  shady  avenue  through  the  Minwear  wood,  descend 
to  Blackpool,  many  years  noted  for  its  great  iron  forge  and  fishery,  rented 
of  the  proprietor  of  Slehech.  This  spot  is  delightfully  situated  upon  the 
margin  of  the  river  Cleddeu,  which  here  takes  a  sudden  bend  to  the  n.  e., 
deeply  embosomed  in  oak  and  beech  of  the  most  luxuriant  growth. 

At  Canaston  Bridge,  on  the  turnpike-road  from  Haverfordwest  to  Car¬ 
marthen,  Mr.  Fenton  quitted  his  aquatic  conveyance.  Canaston  was  once 
the  possession  of  a  powerful  man  of  that  name,  whose  daughter  and  sole 
heiress  married  Peter  Perrott,  Esq.  Half  a  mile  distant,  is  Ridgway, 
Mrs.  Foley.  Return  to  the  r.,  taking  a  road  through  the  woody  tract, 
appropriated  for  many  years  to  the  use,  of  the  iron  forge  at  Blackpool. 
Upon  the  verge  of  the  e.  boundary  of  Canaston-wood,  occurs  a  very 
extensive  and  strong  encampment,  including  within  its  area  upwards  of 
two  acres.  Quitting  the  wood,  pass  the  antiquated  mansion  of  Grove, 
embosomed  in  trees  on  the  r.,  the  seat  of  the  ancient  family  of  Poyer,  now 
extinct.  Of  this  family  was  Colonel  Poyer,  who  gallantly  defended 
Pembroke  Castle  against  Cromwell,  and  was  shot  at  Covent  Garden. 
Proceed  through  Molleson  to  Templeton,  so  called  from  having  been  much 


CERIG-Y-DRUDIAN. 


190 


resorted  to  by  the  Knights  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  when  they  engaged  in 
the  recreation  of  hunting,  if  cruelty  and  the  commission  of  death  may  be 
called  recreation.  It  is  a  skeleton  of  a  large  village.  The  architecture  is 
chiefly  Flemish,  such  as  is  seen  in  ancient  villages  upon  the  coasts  of 
Somersetshire  and  Devon.  Mr.  Fenton,  finding  no  inducement  to  lead 
him  further  in  this  direction,  returned,  and  fell  in  with  the  great  road 
upon  Narberth  mountain.  On  the  approach  to  Narberth,  as  seen  from 
the  mountain,  the  castle,  church,  and  town,  group  into  a  pleasing  picture. 

On  the  road  to  Pembroke,  from  the  summit  of  a  hill,  there  is  a  grand 
view  of  Carew  Castle  :  indeed  it  is  from  the  s.  and  s.  w.  alone  that  its 
important  dimensions  fully  appear  ;  hence  may  also  be  seen  the  elevated 
mansion  of  Lawrenny,  seated  on  a  lofty  bank  of  an  arm  of  Milford  Haven, 
beautifully  accompanied  by  wood  and  lawn.  This  place  is  considered  one 
of  the  first  seats  in  Pembrokeshire  ;  and  it  is  said  to  have  received  much 
improvement  from  the  taste  and  liberality  of  Mr.  Barlow.  An  elevated 
ridge,  commanding  extensive  views,  conducts  the  traveller  to  Pembroke  ; 
but  the  best  prospects  of  the  town  are  from  the  higher  lands,  over  Avhich 
the  road  descends,  after  passing  from  the  ferry  across  the  haven  of  Milford  : 
hence  Wilson’s  charming  picture  was  taken. 


To  Pembroke,  4  miles.  Barber j  Donovan; 
Wyndham. 


Back  to  Haverfordwest.  Fenton. 


CERIG-Y-DRUDIAN. 

From  Corwen,  10  miles.  Hutton.  From  Ruthin,  15  miles.  Pugh. 

Cernioge,  3  miles.  Hutton  ;  Warner.  Capel  Curig,  16  miles. 

Llanrwst,  14  miles.  Evans. 

CERIG-Y-DRUDIAN,  or  Llanfair  Faellin,  “  the  Stone  of  the 
Daring  Ones,”  is  a  pleasant  village  at  the  junction  of  several  high  roads  in 
Denbighshire,  famed  in  Camden’s  time  for  some  remains  of  Druidic  worship. 
These  relics  have  long  since  been  removed ;  the  largest  now  is  converted 
into  a  gate-post.  Tradition  represents  them  as  having  latterly  formed  a 
rude  prison,  in  which  Cynvrig  Rwth,  a  lawless  chieftain,  confined  his  cap¬ 
tives. 

The  population  of  the  parish  amounted,  in  1831,  to  IOO6  inhabitants  ; 
it  contains  20,000  acres,  subject  to  tithes.  Here  is  an  almshouse  for 
six  poor  men,  founded  by  Robert  Price,  Esq.,  a  Baron  of  the  Exchequer 
in  1717.  The  village  is  situated  in  a  naked  cold  district,  producing  few  of 
the  comforts  of  life.  It  is  now  rendered  obscure,  the  Holyhead  road  passing 
at  a  short  distance  below,  where  a  new  village  is  formed  called  Ty’n-y- 
Rhyd.  In  the  time  of  the  Druids  and  long  after,  this  district  was  finely 
wooded.  Robert  Jones,  who  kept  the  White  Lion”  here,  recited  from 
memory  with  great  animation,  many  fine  pieces  from  the  ancient  bards. 
The  Church  is  a  spacious  structure,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  chancel,  and 
a  lofty  chantry  chapel  in  the  south.  Upon  the  first  hill,  1  m.  e.  of  this 
village,  is  Pen  Gwerwyn,  the  small  remains  of  a  castle  once  belonging  to 
the  celebrated  Caractacus.  As  the  traveller  approaches  the  summit  of  a 
hill  of  easy  ascent,  he  finds  a  trench  36  ft.  wide.  The  soil,  thrown  upon 
the  outside  constitutes  a  mound  3  ft.  high,  but  the  greater  part  having 
been  cast  on  the  inner  side,  forms  a  rampart  about  15  ft.  from  the  bottom 
of  the  trench.  This  rampart  encircling  the  highest  part  of  the  hill,  rather 
of  an  oval  form,  is  in  some  places  nearly  perfect,  and  encloses  6  or  7  acres. 


CERIG-Y-DRUDIAN. 


191 

Ascending  6O  or  70  ft.,  he  meets  with  the  foundation  of  the  wall,  of 
thickness  about  6  ft,  which  includes  the  area,  running  parallel  with  the 
trench  below,  and  enclosing  4  or  5  acres ;  but  the  plough  in  the  service  of 
Ceres  has  obliterated  many  of  these  interesting  vestiges  of  olden  time. 
The  prospects  from  this  hill  are  extensive,  but  barren.  We  are  told  that 
when  Caractacus^  the  son  of  Bran  ab  Llyr,  was  routed  by  the  Romans 
(whether  at  Caer  Caradoc,  Gaer  ditches,  or  the  Wrekin,  is  uncertain),  he 
retreated  to  this  castle  for  safety,  but  was,  with  his  whole  family_,  betrayed 
to  the  enemy,  by  Aregwedd  Voeddig,  daughter  of  Ararwy,  an  intrepid 
British  Amazon,  and  sent  prisoner  to  Rome,  where  he  delivered  that 
celebrated  speech  referred  to  by  Tacitus.  How  are  we  impressed  by  the 
mutability  of  things,  when  we  survey  this  village  stationed  amidst  naked 
and  barren  mountains,  presenting  only  ideas  of  poverty  and  desolation  ! 
Kistvaini  and  cromlechau  are  scattered  around.  It  was  here  that  the 
British  Druids  sacrificed  ;  to  this  spot  the  sacred  misletoe  was  brought  ; 
and  from  the  neighbouring  mountain  the  barbarous  pontiff  delivered  his 
anathemas.  Tyddyn  Tydyr,  in  the  parish  of  Llanfihangel  Glyn-y-Myfyr, 
near  Cerig-y-Drudion,  is  the  native  place  of  Mr.  Owen  Jones,  who  for 
many  years  made  the  study  of  Welsh  literature  his  recreation  from  the 
cares  of  an  extensive  trade.  He  produced  the  Myvyrian  Archaiology, 
of  which  three  volumes  were  printed  in  the  Welsh  language.  The  1st 
vol.  contains  the  Poetry  of  the  Welsh  bards;  the  2d,  Triads,  Gene¬ 
alogy  of  the  British  saints ;  Chronicle  of  the  kings  of  Britain  ;  Chro¬ 
nicle  of  the  princes  ;  Chronicle  of  the  Saxons  ;  Life  of  Gryffydh  ap  Cynan, 
from  1079  to  1137;  Divisions  of  Wales;  Parishes  of  Wales:  the  3d, 
Ethic  triads  and  proverbs ;  Triads  of  law,  and  the  principles  of  government 
of  the  ancient  Britons ;  also  ancient  music  copied  in  an  obsolete  notation. 
Mr.  Jones’s  expenses  in  obtaining  materials  for  this  work  were  very  heavy, 
for  he  procured  transcripts  of  all  the  works  of  the  poets  from  about  the 
year  1 300  to  the  close  of  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  This  collection 
is  said  to  amount  to  sixty  4to  volumes  of  about  450  pages  each.  On  an 
adjacent  mountain  called  Pen-sarn-ddu,  is  Gwelig  Taliesin,  or  Taliesin’s 
Bed.” 

On  the  road  to  Corwen  occurs  Pont-y-Glyn,  or  Pont-Llyn-Dyffws,  a 
bridge  of  one  arch,  about  50  ft.  in  the  span,  bestriding  a  deep  and  dismal 
chasm,  through  which  the  hoarse  sounding  Glyn  rushing  into  a  deepened 
bed,  roars  over  the  disjointed  rocks  beneath.  This  stupendous  fissure,  full 
200  ft.  deep,  is  overhung  by  large  forest  trees,  the  branches  of  which 
throw  a  darkened  shade  over  the  awful  gulph.  Mr.  Bingley  says,  “  the 
transition  to  this  romantic  scene  is  so  momentary,  as  to  seem  almost  the 
effect  of  magic.”  The  road  from  Bala  to  Ruthin  here  crosses  that  to 
Corwen,  from  Cerig-y-Drudion  and  Llanrwst;  on  his  approach  to  Corwen, 
the  tourist  passes  over  the  Dee,  upon  an  old  stone  bridge  of  6  arches.  The 
road  TO  Corwen  lies  through  a  pleasing,  quiet  vale,  bounded  to  the  right 
by  the  Berwyn  mountains.  A  vast  rocky  precipice,  being  an  abrupt 
termination  of  the  lofty  Ferwyn,  rears  itself  above  the  town  to  the  west. 

The  road  hence  to  Ruthin  lies  over  bleak  and  barren  heath-clad  hills, 
among  which  at  Clogcainog,  was  discovered  the  lettered  stone  described  as 
follows  by  Camden,  allusive  to  a  Roman  British  chieftain,  who  probably  fell 
n  battle  near  this  place. 

ATMILINI, 

TOVISAG. 

To  Cernioge,  3  miles.  Hutton;  Pugh.  I  To  Corwen,  10  miles.  Evans;  Warner. 

Pont-y-Glyn,  4  J  miles.  Hutton.  1 


192 


CERNIOGE. 

From  Cerig-y-Drudion,  3  miles,  I  From  Llanrwstj  11  miles.  Warner. 

Capel  Curig,  15  miles.  Hutton.  [ 

CERNIOGE,  pronounced  Kernyoggy,  in  the  s.w.  extremity  of  Denbigh¬ 
shire,  is  a  hamlet  consisting  of  three  or  four  houses,  in  an  elevated  situation, 
remarkable  for  nothing  except  a  good  inn  ;  hut  this,  in  so  dreary  a  country, 
is  a  great  acquisition,  being  erected  on  the  London  and  Holyhead  road. 

Five  miles  on  the  road  to  Llanrwst  is  Gallt-y-Gwg,  a  terrace  of  more 
than  2  m.  long.  On  the  left  appears  the  beautiful  deep  vale  of  Llanrwst, 
with  Conwy  in  the  termination. 

Advancing  to  Corwen  along  an  open  plain,  the  ground  is  wooded,  better 
cultivated,  and  more  productive.  Within  1^  m.  of  Corwen  on  the 
1.  is  Hhug,  the  splendid  residence  of  G.  H.  Vaughan,  Esq.  In  1807,  he 
succeeded  his  brother,  Lieutenant-Colonel  E.  W.  Vaughan,  who  assumed 
the  name  of  Salusbury.  A  handsome  monument  to  his  memory  was  erected 
by  his  brother  officers  of  the  Guards.  The  ancient  house,  under  the 
direction  of  that  distinguished  officer,  was  replaced  by  a  handsome  modern 
structure.  Rhug  is  a  term  significant  of  what  abounds  in  breaks  or  points, 
and  is  characteristic  of  the  scenery  around.  At  the  bridge  over  the  Dee, 
within  a  mile  of  Corwen,  is  a  lodge  in  good  taste,  built  by  Sir  Richard 
Hoare,  Bart. 

Of  the  route  from  Cernioge  to  Bala,  an  anonymous  traveller  has  given 
the  following  account.  The  only  safe  road  to  Bala  for  a  carriage  ex¬ 
tends  18  m.  By  the  suggestion,  however,  of  some  evil  genius,  we  took* 
the  reputed  nearest  way  through  the  wildest  parts  of  Merionethshire,  and 
thus  missed  seeing  the  famous  citadel  of  the  Druids,  wffiither  Caractacus 
retired  after  his  defeat  at  Caer  Caradoc,  situated  about  a  ^  m.  on  the  1. 
from  Cerig-y-Drudion.  Having  retraced  the  road  to  Capel  Voelas  about 
a  mile,  we  turned  to  the  left,  and  entered  upon  an  execrable  road.  We 
then  mounted  a  very  long  and  naked  hill,  from  which  w'e  had  an  extensive 
view  of  the  Caernarvonshire  mountains,  and  of  a  dreary  and  uninteresting 
country  around.  Noticed  a  small  lake  beyond  Cernioge,  in  an  elevated 
tract,  and  passing  a  high  single  stone,  the  intention  of  wdiich  we  are  unac¬ 
quainted,  soon  began  to  ascend  by  a  very  narrow  road,  where  the  carriage 
had  barely  room  to  stand.  On  reaching  the  bottom,  through  which  ran  a 
brook,  we  saw  a  few  scattered  farms.  We  had  next  to  encounter  a  very 
steep  ascent.  The  scenery  from  the  apex  was  uncommonly  wild  and  dreary  ; 
a  few  straggling  cattle  and  sheep  only  relieved  the  weary  eye,  and  indicated 
that  the  abodes  of  men  were  not  far  distant.  Even  vegetable  nature  seemed 
to  shrink  from  a  situation  so  bleak,  for  not  a  tree  or  a  shrub  was  to  be  seen 
for  several  miles.  The  road,  however,  now  took  a  gradual  descent  in  an 
improved  form,  and  about  5  m.  from  Bala,  we  began  to  enter  on  a  tract  of 
increasing  fertility,  till  we  came  in  sight  of  the  river  Treweryn,  a  consider- 
ble  stream  which  falls  into  the  river  Dee  near  Bala.  The  mountains  here 
assume  a  less  lofty  character  than  those  we  had  traced  in  the  morning  :  and 
the  vale  on  our  r.  increased  in  beauty  and  richness.  The  cottages  had, 
however,  a  more  wild  and  uncomfortable  appearance,  than  those  in  Caer¬ 
narvonshire  ;  and  instead  of  being  covered  with  slates,  and  furnished  with 
chimneys,  they  were  ill  thatched,  and  the  apertures  for  the  smoke  very  rude. 
Wheat,  barley,  and  artificial  grasses  began  to  appear,  particularly  as  we 
were  winding  round  a  hill  which  led  us  within  sight  of  Bala  lake.  At  last 


CEllNIOGE. 


193 

we  descended  to  the  town^  situated  in  a  beautiful  level  vale_,  about  1  m.  in 
breadth,  and  crossing  a  tine  bridge  over  the  Dee,  enjoyed  an  agreeable  view 
of  Rhiwlas,  Mr.  Price’s  villa,  upon  the  slope  of  the  hill  above,  amid  delight¬ 
ful  plantations  of  firs,  larches,  birch  and  other  trees.  (^Modern  Travels, 
vol.  iv.  p.  126.) 

To  Capel  Curig,  pass  Pentre  Foelas,  3  m. ;  in  advancing  to  the  latter 
is  a  road  to  Llanrwst,  9  ;  having  reached  it,  a  road  to  Conway  lies  on  the 

r.  6  m.;  PontRhydd  Llanfair,  4  m.;  on  the  r.  a  seat  erected  by  the  Rev. - 

Humphries,  and  a  little  out  of  the  road  a  good  inn.  Bettws,  4  m. ;  here  is 
a  curious  natural  bridge  formed  of  the  rocks  in  the  stream  ;  and  2  m.  be¬ 
yond,  on  the  r.  is  a  grand  waterfall,  called  Rhaiadyr-y-Wenol.  Capel 
CuRiG,  4  m. 

To  Llanrwst  pass  Capel  Foelas,  2  rn.  3  fur.  (1  m.  beyond  on  the  r.  is 
Foelas  hallCj  Llanrw'st,  8  m.  1  f. 

To  Festiniog  we  reach  a  comfortable  little  house  at  Pentre  Foelas,  2i  m. 
Foelas  Hall,  i  m.  distant,  is  a  very  old  mansion  of  the  Wynns,  but  by  a 
later  alliance  it  now  belongs  to  the  Finches  family.  It  was  once  a  place  of 
eminence.  One  of  the  pillars  mentioned  by  Camden  supposed  to  be  Roman, 
is  still  allowed  to  keep  its  station.  Richard  Llydd  has  ascertained  that  the 
inscription  was  partly  in  Latin  and  partly  in  Welsh,  to  the  memory  of 
a  Llywelyn,  prince  of  Wales,  probably  Llywelyn  ap  Sytsyllt,  who  was 
killed  through  the  treachery  of  Madog  Bishop  of  Bangor,  in  1021.  Cross 
the  river  Eletwr,  which  runs  through  a  picturesque  and  interesting  dingle 
to  Ysbutty  Efan,  a  small  village  on  the  Conwy,  containing  a  good  house  of 
public  accommodation.  There  once  stood  here  a  hospitium  of  St.  John  of 
Jerusalem,  as  an  asylum  for  travellers  in  this  wild  country  during  the  tu¬ 
mults  of  war.  After  the  abolition  of  this  order  of  knights,  it  became  the 
residence  of  thieves  and  murderers,  who  were  extirpated  by  Merdydd  ap 
Efan  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VII. 

The  church  of  Ysbutty  Efan,  dedicated  to  St.  John  the  Baptist,  contains 
several  mutilated  recumbent  figures.  The  valiant  Rhys  Vawr  ab  Meredith, 
of  Plas-Jolin,  is  here  effigiated  in  armour,  to  whom  Henry  VII.,  on  the 
fall  of  the  bearer  Sir  William  Brandon,  gave  the  English  standard  at  the 
battle  of  Bos  worth.  Near  him  are  his  wife  and  son  Robert,  chaplain  to 
Cardinal  Wolsey.  An  almshouse  was  founded  here  for  six  poor  men  by 
Captain  Richard  Vaughan. 

Mr.  Pugh  proceeded  hence  by  the  side  of  the  infant  Conwy  for  5  m.  to  its 
source,  Llyn  Con  way,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  well  stocked  with  fish,  and 
4  ra.  in  circumference  ;  but  he  gives  rather  an  unfavourable  account  of  the 
road.  This  lake  is  much  frequented  by  black-backed  gulls.  Between  it 
and  the  road  is  a  dangerous  morass  ;  a  guide  therefore  must  be  had  to 
lead  the  way.  Mr.  Pugh  very  affectingly  compares  these  quagmires, 
covered  with  beautiful  green  verdure,  to  the  world ;  where,  in  days  of 
affluence,  beset  with  nominal  friends,  it  appears  delightful ;  but  they  dis¬ 
appear,  alas  !  on  the  approach  of  adversity,  leaving  you  to  exclaim,  with 
Goldsmith, 

“  And  what  is  friendship  but  a  name, 

A  charm,  that  lulls  to  sleep ; 

A  shade,  that  follows  wealth  and  fame. 

But  leaves  the  wretch  to  weep  ?” 

Returning  and  following  the  road  for  2  m.,  pass  a  beautiful  lake  on  the 
r.  called  Llyn-du-Bach,  or  Little  Black  Pool.  Rather  lower,  Pugh  entered 
a  wretched  dwelling,  and  indulges  in  several  reflections,  which  close  by 
asserting  that  a  better  school  for  the  affluent  could  not  be  produced.  At 


o 


CHEPSTOW. 


19^ 


Pont-yr-Afon-Gam  he  hired  a  guide  to  the  fine  scenery  of  Llyn-y-Mor- 
wynion,  1  m.  from  the  road.  Festiniog^,  2  m. 

From  Cernioge_,  past  the  salmon  leap  at  Bettws-y-Coed,  9^  wi*  and  Lake 
Ogwerij  18f  m._,  a  broad^  smooth,  and  well  protected  road  has  been  made 
along  the  rocky  precipices  with  which  this  mountainous  country  abounds. 


To  Capel  Curig,  15  miles. 

Llanrwst,  miles.  Hutton. 
Cerig-y-Drudion,  3  miles.  Hutton  ;  Warner. 
Bala,  14  miles. 


To  Corwen,  13  miles. 

Bangor,  28  miles. 

Festinog,  15  miles.  Pugh. 


CHEPSTOW. 


From  the  New  Passage,  5  miles.  Barber. 

Tintern  Abbey,  5  miles.  Coxe  ;  Ski'ine 
Warner;  Manby. 

Ragland,  12  miles.  Evans. 


From  Monmouth,  15^  miles.  Wyndham. 
Newnham,  16  miles. 

Newport,  16f  miles. 


CHEPSTOW  is  seated  upon  a  declivity,  sloping  to  the  W ye,  in  the  hun¬ 
dred  of  Caldecot,  Monmouthshire,  2  m.  from  the  conflux  of  the  Severn  and 
Wye.  The  population  in  1811  was  2581  ;  in  1831,  3524.  It  has  a 
modern  very  handsome  Market-house,  with  a  spacious  Assembly-roo3i 
over  it,  and  a  long  range  of  butchers’  shambles  behind,  constructed  at  the 
expense  of  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  lord  of  the  manor.  Its  Harbour  is  un¬ 
commonly  deep.  Indeed,  the  phenomena  of  the  tides  at  Chepstow  are 
wonderful,  the  waters  rising  here  with  greater  rapidity  and  height  than  at 
any  other  port  in  Great  Britain.  The  equinoctial  tides  are  often  50  feet. 
This  is  occasioned  by  the  great  pressure  from  the  W estern  Ocean  into  the 
Bristol  Channel ;  and  the  Severn  becoming  suddenly  narrow  at  Beachley,  it 
rushes  thence  into  the  Wye.  On  the  20th  of  March,  1815,  the  tide  rose 
to  a  perpendicular  height  of  51  ft.  2  in.  from  low- water  mark.  In 
January,  1768,  it  reached  70  ft.,  —  a  height  supposed  not  to  be  exceeded 
in  any  part  of  the  world.  Chepstow  regulates  the  price  of  oak  bark  in  all 
markets;  this  article,  with  navy  timber,  and  iron,  constitute  its  principal  ex¬ 
ports.  Shipbuilding  is  carried  on  here  to  a  considerable  extent.  Steam- 
vessels  sail  daily  between  Bristol  and  this  place.  The  passage  is  safe,  the 
fare  6d.  A  boat  up  the  river  from  the  inn  is  charged  one  guinea. 

Travellers  are  unanimous  in  saying  they  have  seldom  visited  any  town 
whose  picturesque  situation  surpasses  that  of  Chepstow.  Indeed  the  beauties 
are  so  uncommonly  excellent,  that  the  most  exact  critic  in  landscape  would 
scarcely  wish  to  alter  a  position  in  the  assemblage  of  woods,  cliffs,  ruins, 
and  water.  Chepstow  was  once  fortified,  and  the  walls  strengthened  with 
round  towers,  stretching  from  the  bank  of  the  river  below  the  bridge,  to  the 
works  of  the  castle.  The  name  was  probably  derived  from  Cheapian  Stowe, 
meaning  a  place  of  traffic.  The  Castle  is  said  to  have  had  different  appel¬ 
lations;  by  the  Britons  called  Castell  Gwent,  or  Casgwent,  by  the  Saxons 
Cheapstowe,  and  the  Normans  Estrighoiel,  or  Striguil.  In  Doomsday 
Book  it  is  called  Castellum  de  Estrighoiel.  It  was  built  and  inhabited  by 
the  earls  of  Striguil  or  Chepstow,  which  latter  is  thought  to  be  a  corrup¬ 
tion  of  Cheapian  Stowe,  denoting  a  place  of  traffic.  The  Castle  is  situated 
upon  the  brow  of  a  precipice,  overhanging  the  w.  bank  of  the  Wye,  the  n. 
side  lies  close  to  the  edge,  and  appears  a  part  of  the  cliff,  the  same  ivy 
covering  both.  The  other  parts  consist  of  massive  walls,  flanked  with 
lofty  towers.  The  area  is  large,  and  divided  into  four  courts.  The  grand 
entrance  to  the  e.  is  a  circular  arch  between  two  large  towers  (formerly 
enclosing  a  portcullis)  of  Norman  architecture,  introductory  to  the  first 
court,  which  contains  the  shells  of  the  grand  hall,  kitchens,  and  other  apart- 


CHEPSTOW. 


195 

ments.  The  hall  has  been  a  magnificent  room  in  the  pointed  style^  paved 
with  burnt  tiles  or  bricks^  having  glazed  surfaces_,  and  painted  figures  of 
birds  and  flowers.  The  most  perfect  of  these  rooms  are  tenanted  by  a 
family  who  show  the  place.  Some  ornamented  tiles  are  stuck  upon  the 
walls.  Twenty-four  chimneys  remain  ;  one  is  handsomely  decorated  on  the 
outside  and  glazed  within^  to  prevent  the  accumulation  of  soot.  At  the 
s.  E.  angle  of  this  court_,  is  an  elevation,  called  Harry  Marten's  Tower ^ 
which  was  the  keep  or  citadel.  The  inside  front  is  of  a  date  posterior  to 
the  original  structure.  On  the  w.  side  of  this  court,  near  a  round  tower 
called  the  old  kitchen,  a  gate  opens  into  the  second  court,  now  a  garden,  at 
the  end  of  which  another  gateway  leads  into  the  third  court,  where  is  an  ele¬ 
gant  building  called  the  Chapel.  The  inside  is  a  grand  area  of  90  feet  in 
length,  and  30  in  breadth  ;  the  roof  has  fallen ;  the  remaining  walls  are  not 
less  than  40  feet  high.  A  range  of  apertures  for  beams  in  the  side  walls 
indicate  that  it  had  an  upper  apartment,  or  that  they  were  intended  to  sup¬ 
port  a  gallery.  A  line  of  niches  appears  within  the  walls  of  this  chapel,  at 
the  height  of  18  feet.  Ecclesiastic  antiquaries  suppose  these  were  probably 
intended  to  have  been  occupied  by  figures  of  the  twelve  apostles  ;  military 
antiquaries  think  these  arches  have  been  filled  by  figures  of  the  twelve  knights 
who  accompanied  Fitzhammon  in  the  conquest  of  Glamorgan  ;  but  as  there 
are  at  least  15  recesses,  neither  of  these  conjectures  seems  tenable.  A 
stratum  of  Roman  brick  may  be  observed  in  the  wall,  which  is  some  authority 
for  attributing  the  structure  to  Julius  Caesar.  Sir  Harry  Englefield  ascribes 
them  to  the  Saxons.  The  grand  entrance  was  by  a  flight  of  steps,  still 
visible  on  the  outside  of  the  e.  wall,  through  a  semicircular  arched  door¬ 
way,  now  closed.  Within  this  entrance,  a  staircase  in  the  wall  ascends  to 
a  door  on  a  level  v/itli  a  range  of  arches  which  opened  into  the  chamber,  or 
gallery.  The  original  character  of  this  building  is  Saxon  ;  the  decorations 
are  in  the  pointed  or  Norman  style.  At  the  s.w.  angle  of  the  third  court, 
is  a  staircase  ascending  to  the  battlements  and  towers  ;  it  is  now  used  as 
a  garden  :  it  formerly  communicated  by  a  drawbridge  with  the  fourth  or  last 
court,  which  now  can  only  be  entered  by  creeping  through  a  sally-port  in 
the  s.  wall.  The  w.  entrance  of  this  fortress  was  strengthened  with  3  port¬ 
cullises,  and  a  drawbridge  leading  into  a  field  called  the  Castle  Ditch. 
The  erection  of  Chepstow  or  Estrighoiel  Castle,  although  attributed  by  some 
antiquaries  to  the  era  of  Julius  Csesar,  appears  to  have  taken  place  in  the 
11th  century,  when  William  Fitzosborne,  earl  of  Hereford,  built  it  to  de¬ 
fend  the  ample  possessions  granted  him  in  this  part  of  the  island  by  William 
the  Conqueror,  his  relation.  His  son  and  successor,  Roger  de  Britolio, 
taking  up  arms  against  his  sovereign,  was  deprived  of  his  vast  inheritance  ; 
and  Chepstow  Castle  became  soon  after  transferred  to  the  family  of  Clare, 
from  which  it  descended  to  the  Plantagenets,  the  Herberts,  and  the  Somer¬ 
sets,  in  the  last  of  which  families  it  is  vested.  The  castle  and  site  now 
belong  to  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  but  were  held  on  a  lease  of  lives  which  ex¬ 
pired  in  1799^  on  the  death  of  Mrs.  Williams.  This  fortress  is  remark¬ 
able  in  history  for  the  gallant  defence  it  made,  with  a  slender  garrison, 
against  a  considerable  force  headed  by  Oliver  Cromwell;  but  after  a  long 
siege  it  was  taken  by  an  assault,  in  which  nearly  all  its  defenders  were  sacri¬ 
ficed.  The  tower  before  mentioned,  at  the  s.e.  extremity  of  the  castle,  is 
that  where  Henry  Marten  was  confined.  Marten  was  decidedly,  as  to  po¬ 
litical  principles,  a  strenuous  advocate  for  a  republican  government ;  and 
during  the  turbulent  reign  of  the  first  Charles,  he  was  among  the  first  who 
assisted  in  bringing  that  unfortunate  monarch  to  the  block.  On  the  usurp¬ 
ation  of  Cromwell,  he  appeared  not  among  the  number  of  the  Protector’s 

o  2 


CHEPSTOW. 


196 

friends.  After  the  restoration  of  the  monarchical  government  had  heen 
effected  hy  General  Monk^  with  a  body  of  8000  men^  Marten  surrendered 
on  the  proclamation,  and  was  tried  as  a  regicide  at  the  Old  Bailey.  He  con¬ 
fessed  the  fact  of  attending  the  trial  and  signing  the  warrant  for  the  king’s 
death,  but  denied  any  malicious  intention.  He  rested  his  defence  on  the 
necessity  of  obedience  to  the  existing  government,  allowing  that  his  majesty 
had  the  best  title  under  heaven  to  the  dignity  of  king,  being  called  thereto 
hy  the  representative  body  of  the  people.  He  was,  however,  found  guilty, 
petitioned  for  pardon,  which  he  obtained,  on  condition  of  perpetual  impri¬ 
sonment.  He  was  first  confined  in  the  Tower,  but  soon  removed  to  the 
castle  of  Chepstow,  where  his  wife  was  permitted  to  reside  with  him.  He 
was  allowed  to  enjoy  his  property,  to  receive  visits,  and  attended  by  a 
guard,  to  frequent  the  houses  of  the  neighbouring  gentry,  particularly  that 
of  St.  Pierre,  where  his  portrait  is  still  preserved. 

For  thirty  years  secluded  from  mankind, 

Here  Marten  lingered.  Often  have  these  walls 
Echoed  his  footsteps,  as  with  even  tread 
Fie  paced  around  his  prison.  Not  to  him 
Did  Nature’s  fair  varieties  exist ; 

He  never  saw  the  sun’s  delightful  beams, 

Save  when  through  yon  high  bars  he  poured  a  sad 

And  broken  splendour. - —  Southey. 

Marten  lived  to  the  advanced  age  of  78,  and  died  in  I68O,  by  a  stroke  of 
apoplexy,  in  the  20th  year  of  his  confinement.  He  was  buried  in  the  chan¬ 
cel  of  the  parish  church  of  Chepstow.  Over  his  ashes  was  placed  a  stone 
with  an  inscription,  which  one  of  the  vicars  ordered  to  be  removed  into  the 
body  of  the  church.  The  epitaph  was  composed  by  himself,  and  is  as 
follows  :  — 


“  HERE 

September  the  9,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  1680, 

Was  buried  a  true  Englishman, 

Who  in  Berkshire  was  well  known 

To  love  his  country’s  freedom  ’bove  his  own 

But  living  immured  full  twenty  year. 

Had  time  to  write  as  does  appear, 

HIS  EPITAPH. 

H  ere  or  elsewhere  (all’s  one,  to  you,  to  me), 

E  arth,  air,  or  water,  gripes  my  ghostless  dust ; 

N  one  knows  how  soon  to  be  by  fire  set  free  : 

R  eader,  if  you  an  oft  tryed  rule  will  trust, 

Y  ou’ll  gladly  do  and  suffer  what  you  must. 

M  y  life  was  spent  in  serving  you,  and  you, 

A  nd  death’s  my  pay  (it  seems)  and  welcome  too ; 

R  evenge  destroying  but  itself,  while  I 
T  o  birds  of  prey  leave  my  old  cage,  and  fly ; 

E  xamples  preach  to  th’  eye,  care  then  (mine  says) 

N  ot  how  you  end,  but  how  you  spend  your  dayes.” 

A  subterraueous  chamber,  having  an  engroined  roof,  is  excavated  in 
the  rock,  beneath  the  ruin,  and  opens  to  the  overhanging  brow  of  the  cliff. 
Here,  and  from  several  points  in  perambulating  this  ruin,  the  rapid  Wye  is 
seen  rolling  at  a  great  depth  beneath  ;  and  at  other  times  the  green  waving 
hills  of  Piercefield  rise  with  peculiar  grandeur,  darkening  the  river  with 
their  lengthened  shades.  The  Duke  of  Beaufort’s  agents  liave  caused  a 
neat  gravel  walk  to  be  formed  along  the  s.  side  of  this  ruin  to  the  w.  tower. 


CHEPSTOW. 


197 

and  thence  to  an  eminence  upon  the  bank  of  the  river,  above  the  castle. 
This  promenade  presents  a  pleasing  view  of  several  very  picturesque  objects  ; 
viz.  the  river  side  of  the  fortress,  the  alcove  at  Piercefield  walks,  a  fine 
bend  of  the  river  from  Longhope  Reach,  and  an  elegant  iron  bridge. 

There  are  several  remains  of  religious  houses  at  Chepstow  and  its  vicinity. 
The  Priory  of  St.  Kynemark  occupied  a  pleasant  eminence  to  the  w.  of  the 
town.  The  remains  are  still  visible  near  the  turnpike  leading  from  Chep¬ 
stow  to  Monmouth,  not  far  from  Piercefield  Lodge  ;  they  consist  of  stone 
walls  enclosing  the  garden  and  yard  of  a  farm-house,  called  St.  Kynemark’s 
farm.  The  ruins  of  the  chapel  do  not  exist.  The  foundations  of  another 
chapel,  which  stood  near  the  priory,  at  the  w.  end  of  a  field  called  Upper 
Dean,  only  remain.  If  the  traveller  pass  to  these  ruins  along  the  Shire 
Newton  Road,  and  through  the  fields  at  the  back  of  a  prominent  house, 
called  the  Mount,  he  will  enjoy  a  highly  gratifying  view  of  Chepstow,  and 
the  environs.  In  the  town  are  the  remains  of  several  chapels.  Near  the 
Beaufort  Arms  are  two  stone  buildings,  used  for  a  barn  and  coach-house ; 
one  having  a  Saxon,  and  the  other  a  Norman,  or  pointed  arched  door¬ 
way.  Opposite  the  Beaufort  Arms  is  a  small  vault,  under  FydelFs  long 
room  ;  the  stone  roof  is  vaulted  and  engroined.  In  St.  Ann’s,  or  Bridge 
Street,  are  the  remains  of  two  ancient  religious  edifices.  One  of  these  was 
the  chapel  of  St.  Ann,  now  used  as  a  bark-house  ;  the  other  adjoins  to 
Powis’s  Almshouse.  A  priory  for  monks  of  the  Benedictine  order  was 
founded  here  soon  after  the  Conquest,  called  Strigule,  or  Striguil,  monastery. 
It  constituted  a  cell  to  the  abbey  of  Corneille,  in  Normandy.  At  the  disso¬ 
lution  it  contained  three  monks  ;  the  value  of  its  revenues  was  32^.  per 
annum.  The  parish  Church  includes  most  of  the  remains  of  this  mo¬ 
nastery,  which  forms  a  curious  specimen  of  early  architecture.  A  tower 
stood  at  the  e.  end  of  the  present  building,  which  fell  down.  At  the 
angles,  on  the  outside,  are  several  ancient  clustered  columns,  which  have 
supported  one  of  the  arches.  Beyond  this  extended  the  choir.  The 
entrance  was  by  a  semicircular  arched  doorway,  ornamented  with  cre- 
nated.  billeted,  and  other  mouldings,  resting  on  five  short  receding  columns, 
on  one  side,  without  pedestals,  with  simple  uniform  capitals.  A  similar 
decorated  arch,  of  smaller  dimensions,  springing  from  two  collateral  columns, 
is  on  each  side  the  doorway,  but  is  half  obscured  and  disfigured  by  an 
external  porch,  of  which  Mr.  Cox  has  given  a  plate  in  his  Tour,  p.  364. 
The  present  nave  seems  to  have  been  considerably  larger.  It  is  separated 
from  the  aisles  by  ranges  of  circular  arches,  resting  upon  massive  piers. 
On  the  s.  side  of  the  chancel,  under  a  canopied  monument,  supported  by 
eight  Corinthian  pillars,  is  a  whole-length  figure  of  Henry,  second  Earl  of 
Worcester,  who  died  in  1549-  See  an  engraved  view  in  Sandford’s  geneo- 
logical  Hist,  of  Great  Britain.” 

In  Church  Street  is  the  Hospital^  endowed  by  Sir  Walter  Montague, 
of  Pen  coed,  for  the  maintenance  of  poor  persons  belonging  to  the  parishes 
of  Chepstow  and  Llanmartin.  At  the  upper  end  of  Castle  Street  is  the 
new  Almshouse,  founded  by  Mr.  Thomas  Powis,  of  Enfield,  Middlesex, 
a  native  of  the  town,  for  the  relief  of  twelve  poor  person s.f 

Chepstow  labours  under  an  inconvenient  scarcity  of  water.  In  the  garden 
of  a  house  in  Bridge  Street  is  a  well  which,  at  high  tide,  becomes  dry,  but 
returns  soon  after  the  ebb.  The  well  is  32  ft.  deep,  and  frequently  con¬ 
tains  14  ft.  of  water. 

The  posting  Inns  are  the  Beaufort  Arms,  the  George,  and  the  White 
Hart.  The  old  Bridge  at  Chepstow  was  a  singular  structure ;  it  was  for¬ 
merly  entirely  built  with  timber,  but  the  piers  on  the  Monmouthshire  half 


CHEPSTOW. 


198 

were  constructed  of  stone.  The  flooring  of  this  bridge  was  similar  to  that 
of  Caerleon^  formed  of  thick  planks,  kept  firm  in  their  places  by  tenons,  or 
wedges  of  wood,  similar  to  one  described  in  Caesar’s  Commentaries.  An 
elegant  bridge  was  completed  here  in  18l6,  consisting  of  five  arches  formed 
of  cast  iron,  and  raised  upon  stone  piers  ;  the  two  largest  are  18  ft.  thick, 
by  40  ft.  long;  the  two  smaller  are  10  ft.  thick,  and  33  ft.  long.  The 
dimensions  of  the  arches,  which,  together,  occupy  a  space  of  372  ft.  in 
length,  including  4  ft.  abutment  at  each  end,  are  as  follow  :  —  Centre  arch 
span  or  chord,  112  ft.  ;  rise,  or  versed  sine,  13  ft. ;  height  from  low  water¬ 
mark,  58  ft.  ;  the  two  arches,  upon  each  side  of  the  centre  span,  70  ft., 
and  rise,  10  ft.  9  in. ;  the  two  small  arches  span  54  ft.,  and  rise  7  ft*  3  in. 
The  extreme  length  of  the  bridge  is  532  ft.,  and  the  width  20  ft. 

The  traveller  should  arrange  his  time  so  as  to  see  the  grounds  of  Pierce- 
EiELD,  which  are  shown  only  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays.  The  house  is  now 
exhibited  to  strangers,  by  an  order  from  the  Piercefield  Inn.  The  principal 
lodge  is  about  m,  from  Chepstow,  on  the  Monmouth  road,  where  the 
party  may  alight,  and  order  the  horses  to  meet  them  at  the  village  of  St. 
Arvan,  1-^  m.  beyond,  near  the  upper  extremity  of  the  walks,  where  there 
is  good  accommodation  at  the  Piercefield  Inn.  At  this  lodge  the  gardener 
resides,  who  will  attend  parties  through  the  walks: 

Piercefield  was  long  the  property  of  the  family  of  Waiters.  It  was  sold 
in  1736  to  Colonel  Morris,  of  the  Island  of  St.  Vincent,  father  of  Valen¬ 
tine  Morris,  to  whom  it  owes  its  improvements.  In  1784  it  was  disposed 
of  to  George  Smith,  Esq.,  of  Burnhall,  in  the  county  of  Durham  :  of  whose 
accomplished  daughter  Mr.  Bowdler  has  published  some  memoirs.  This 
property  then  devolved,  in  179^,  to  Colonel  Wood,  formerly  chief  engi¬ 
neer  at  Bengal,  who  completed  the  present  tasteful  and  magnificent  man¬ 
sion,  after  it  had  been  partly  built  by  Mr.  Smith.  In  1803  it  was  sold  to 
the  present  propietor,  Nathaniel  Wells,  Esq.  The  house  is  constructed  of 
freestone,  and  stands  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  park.  It  consists  of  a 
centre  and  two  wings,  the  former  having  three  stories,  and  the  latter  one. 
Among  the  specimens  of  art  which  embellish  this  mansion,  are  four  exqui¬ 
site  pieces  of  gobeline  tapestry,  which  belonged  to  Louis  XVI.  They  ex¬ 
hibit  the  natural  history  of  Africa,  and  represent  various  productions, 
vegetable  and  animal,  grouped  with  admirable  skill,  and  uniting  great  cor¬ 
rectness  of  design,  with  richness  and  beauty  of  colouring. 

Quitting  the  lodge,  cross  through  the  park,  and  arrive  at  a  second  gate, 
whence  descend  along  the  road  which  leads  towards  the  mansion  ;  then 
turning  to  the  r-,  enter  a  bordering  of  wood,  and  come  to  the  Alcove, 
where  look  down  upon  the  river,  which  flows  at  a  tremendous  depth  below. 
To  the  r.  are  the  majestic  ruins  of  Chepstow  Castle,  and  the  town.  In 
front  are  the  rich  meads  of  the  Chapel  House  Farm.  To  the  L,  the  fine 
reach  of  the  Wye,  called  Long  Hope,  terminating  with  the  bold  rocky 
eminence  of  Llancaut,  Passing  from  this  delightful  spot  through  a  dark 
walk,  we  reach  the  first  seat.  Here  an  opening  in  the  wood  presents  some 
beautiful  scenery.  In  passing  it,  now  and  then  catch  a  glimpse  of  Long 
Hope.  The  second  seat  presents  the  same  objects,  varied.  "With  the 
park  on  the  1.,  and  a  thickly  shaded  wood  on  the  r.,  we  reach  the  third 
seat.  The  fourth  seat  produces  a  view  of  the  castle,  town,  and  church. 
At  the  fifth  seat,  the  castle,  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  and  summit  of  the 
church  tower,  continue  in  view.  The  second  great  object  is  the  P/a(/brm, 
enclosed  by  iron  railing.  "We  have  still  the  town  and  castle  on  the  r.,  but 
the  white  cliffs  of  Llancaut  glisten  through  the  thick  wmod  on  the  1. 

Descending,  we  cross  a  road  from  the  park,  down  a  hollow  vale  towards 


CHEPSTOW. 


199 

the  river,  and  again  ascend  up  to  the  first  seat  from  the  platform.  From 
this  station,  we  have  another  view  of  the  town,  with  Ewin’s  Rotks,  the 
river  near  its  conflux  with  the  Severn,  and  an  extensive  prospect  over 
Gloucestershire.  Still  ascending,  we  reach  another  seat  where  the  same 
scenery  is  much  extended.  The  walk  now  skirts  through  a  light  forest¬ 
like  wood,  to  the  edge  of  the  park,  where  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  man¬ 
sion.  We  continue  our  ascent  to  a  third  seat,  which  affords  a  pleasing 
view  of  the  undulating  lawn  in  front  of  the  house.  We  continue  the  em¬ 
bowered  walk,  proceed  by  a  large  and  aged  elm,  pass  under  some  inclining 
laurel  trees,  and  arrive  at  The  Grotto,  a  romantic  little  cave,  excavated 
from  the  rock,  and  studded  with  various  stones  and  scoriae.  A  picture,  in 
the  happiest  state  of  composition,  is  presented  from  this  spot.  A  diversified 
plantation  occupies  the  foreground,  and  descends  through  a  grand  hollow  to 
the  river,  which  passes  in  a  long  reach  under  the  elevated  ruin  of  Chepstow 
Castle,  the  town,  and  bridge.  Towards  the  Severn,  rocks  and  precipices, 
dark  shelving  forests,  groves,  and  lawns,  hang  upon  its  course,  with  various 
sailing  vessels.  The  path  next  leads  to  a  seat  near  the  edge  of  a  rocky 
precipice,  which  fronts  the  peninsula  of  Llancaut,  and  produces  a  view  of 
the  magnificent  Wyndcliff*.  We  continue  our  walk  along  the  edge  of  the 
rock,  and  from  another  seat  survey  the  windings  of  the  river,  and  con¬ 
comitant  objects.  These  are  preliminary  points  to  the  fourth  grand  object, 
called  the  Double  View,  whence  the  different  scenes  which  we  have  seen  in 
detail  appear  in  one  comprehensive  range.  The  mazy  Wye,  with  all  its 
interesting  accompaniments,  passes  from  beneath,  through  a  richly  varie¬ 
gated  country  to  its  junction  with  the  Severn,  beyond  which  silvery  expanse, 
the  grand  swelling  shores  of  Somersetshire  form  the  distance.  A  curious 
deceptio  visits  occurs  here  ;  it  arises  from  a  coincidence  in  the  angle  of 
vision  between  the  embattled  rocks  already  mentioned,  and  a  part  of  the 
Severn,  which  appears  to  wash  their  summit,  although  it  is  many  miles 
distant.  The  walk  declines  to  the  fifth  principal  view,  called  the  Half¬ 
way  Seat,  placed  under  a  large  and  aged  beech  tree.  From  the  front  of 
this  seat  a  most  delightful  view  of  the  rich  inclosures  of  Llancaut  is 
obtained.  Descending  from  this  spot  through  a  shaded  walk,  we  reach  the 
Druid's  Temple,  so  called  from  a  circle  of  upright  stones.  From  the  next 
seat  the  lofty  Wyndcliff*  rears  its  super-imminent  head.  The  view  from  the 
succeeding  seat  produces  the  two  extremities  of  Llancaut  Hamlet,  bounded 
by  the  darker  Wyndcliff*  on  the  n.  Another  seat  presents  a  variation  of  the 
same  objects.  A  few  yards  further  on  the  1.,  see  a  large  oak,  having  for 
its  soil  a  cleft  in  the  rock.  Passing  under  the  edge  of  high  wooded  rocks, 
we  arrive  at  the  Giant’s  Cave,  which  is  a  passage  cut  through  a  rock.  Over 
the  s.  E.  entrance  is  a  mutilated  colossal  figure,  which  once  sustained  the 
fragment  of  a  rock  in  his  uplifted  arms,  threatening  to  overwhelm  who¬ 
ever  dared  to  enter  his  retreat ;  but  some  time  since,  the  stone  fell,  carrying 
the  giant’s  arms  along  with  it.  From  this  place  a  path,  traced  under  the 
woods,  descends  to  the  bath,  a  commodious  building,  concealed  from  out¬ 
ward  view  by  impending  foliage.  Returning  up  to  the  cave,  we  resume 
the  walk  to  a  seat  placed  at  the  foot  of  a  rock.  Pursuing  the  ascent  to 
another  seat,  and  thence,  still  ascending,  we  skirt  the  park,  and  approach 
the  seventh  grand  station,  which  is  a  Seat  near  two  Beeches,  upon  the  edge 
of  a  precipice.  The  prospect  from  this  spot  is  very  fine.  Hence  a  beauti¬ 
ful  mossy  path  leads  you  to  the  verge  of  a  perpendicular  rock,  guarded  with 
iron  rails,  called  the  Lover  s  Leap.  This  view  is  exquisitely  grand,  wild, 
and  majestic.  A  fine  reach  of  the  river  above  Llancaut  Farms,  called 
Prior’s  Reach,  with  Wyndcliff*,  and  the  Ban-y-gor  rocks,  are  the  leading 

o  4 


200 


CHEPSTOW. 


objects.  We  now  bend  round  a  side  of  the  ravine,  through  which  runs 
the  stream  that  supplies  the  cold  bath,  and  pass  along  a  corner  of  the  park 
to  the  last  seat,  near  which  formerly  stood  a  small  temple.  It  is  impos¬ 
sible  to  give  an  adequate  description  of  the  exquisite  beauties  of  this  view  ; 
the  magic  pencil  of  a  Claude  would  falter  at  the  task.  Emerging  through 
a  door  in  the  park  wall,  we  pass  down  a  road  to  the  Fishpond,  then  turning 
through  a  gate  on  the  r.,  and  crossing  three  fields,  we  reach  the  Summit  of 
Wyndcliff.  From  this  lofty  eminence  are  seen,'  beneath  the  circuitous 
Wye,  the  pretty  hamlet  of  Llancaut,  and  the  whole  domain  of  Piercefield. 
Beyond,  somewhat  to  the  1.,  the  town  and  castle  of  Berkeley  and  Thombury  ; 
in  front,  the  town  and  castle  of  Chepstow,  the  majestic  Severn,  the  union 
of  the  Wye  with  the  Severn,  the  Old  and  New  Passages,  Durham  Down, 
Blaire  Castle,  and  Dundry  Tower  ;  a  little  to  the  r.,  Kingroad,  the  mouth 
of  the  Avon,  and  Denny  Islet,  and  Portishead  Point ;  still  farther  to  the  r., 
the  Holmes,  and  Penarth  Point,  near  Cardiff ;  behind  lie  the  Black  Moun-  • 
tains,  and  within  the  circle  of  the  horizon,  parts  of  the  several  counties  of 
Monmouth,  Gloucester,  Wilts,  Somerset,  Devon,  Glamorgan,  Brecon,  Here¬ 
ford,  and  Worcester.  Return  again  to  the  Fishpond,  and  a  few  yards  farther 
is  St.  Arvans,  where  we  enter  the  Monmouth  road,  2  m.  from  Chepstow. 

The  charms  of  Piercefield,  if  not  created,  were  disclosed  by  Valentine 
Morris,  Esq.,  about  the  year  1753,  who  engrafted  the  blandishments  of 
art  upon  the  majestic  wildness  of  nature,  without  distorting  its  original 
character.  Philanthropic,  hospitable,  and  magnificent,  his  house  was 
promiscuously  open  to  the  numerous  visitors  whom  curiosity  led  to  his  im¬ 
provements  ;  but,  alas  !  his  splendid  liberality,  his  unbounded  benevolence, 
and  some  unforeseen  political  contingencies,  involved  his  fortune.  He  was 
obliged  to  part  with  his  estate,  and  take  refuge  in  the  West  Indies.  Before 
he  left  his  country,  he  took  a  farewell  view  of  Piercefield,  and  with  manly 
resignation,  parted  with  that  idol  of  his  contemplations.  The  industrious 
poor,  whose  happiness  he  had  promoted  by  his  exertions  and  his  bounty, 
crowded  around  him,  and,  on  their  knees,  implored  the  interposition  of 
providence  in  his  behalf,  with  tears  and  prayers.  That  mind  which  oft 
had  melted  at  the  recital  of  their  sorrows,  beheld  them  now  unmoved  ;  nor 
did  his  firmness  forsake  him  in  quitting  what  was  most  interesting  to  him  ; 
but  after  having  crossed  Chepstow  Bridge,  hearing  the  mournful  sound  of 
the  muffled  bells,  he  could  not  support  so  striking  a  mark  of  affection  and 
respect,  without  giving  vent  to  tears.  In  quitting  England,  he  did  not 
shake  off  the  evils  of  his  destiny.  Being  appointed  governor  of  St.  Vincent's, 
he  expended  the  residue  of  his  fortune  in  advancing  the  cultivation  of  the 
colony,  and  raising  works  for  its  defence,  when  the  island  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  French.  Government  failing  to  reimburse  his  expenses,  on 
his  return  to  England,  he  was  thrown  into  the  King’s  Bench  prison  by  his 
creditors.  Here,  left  destitute  by  his  nearest  relations,  or  a  dole  of  broken 
victuals  only  offered,  he  experienced  all  the  rigour  of  penury,  during  a 
confinement  of  seven  years.  Out  of  the  numerous  sharers  of  his  prosperity, 
his  amiable  wife,  and  one  friend  only,  remained  to  participate  his  misery, 
and  alleviate  his  distress.  Even  the  clothes  of  his  lady,  who  was  a  niece 
of  lord  Peterborough,  were  sold  to  purchase  bread ;  and,  that  nothing  of 
evil  might  be  wanting  to  fill  his  cup  of  wretchedness,  the  faithful  partner 
of  his  cares,  unable  to  bear  up  against  continued  and  accumulating  misery, 
became  insane.  At  length  he  recovered  his  liberty  ;  and  Fortune,  tired  of 
this  long  persecution,  seemed  to  abate  somewhat  of  her  rigour  ;  when  death, 
ere  he  had  half  completed  the  ordinary  age  of  man,  closed  his  checkered 
career  at  the  house  of  his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Wilmot,  in  Bloomsbury 
Square,  in  the  year  1789' 


CHEPSTOW. 


201 


The  natural  embellishments  of  Piercefield  reject,  with  scorn,  the  decora¬ 
tive  artifices  of  temples,  statues,  obelisks ;  yet  one  solitary  URN,  simply 
dedicated  to  the  memory  of  Valentine  Morris,  seems  a  desideratum. 

Mr.  Willett,  author  of  an  Excursion  from  the  Source  of  the  Wye  to 
Chepstow,'’  advises  the  tourist  to  enter  the  grounds  at  the  principal  lodge 
on  the  Monmouth  Road,  and  end  at  St.  Arvan’s,  as  here  described.  Mr. 
Coxe  says,  ‘‘  it  is  always  preferable  to  pass  through  the  village  of  St.  Arvan’s, 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  grounds,  and  descend  from  the  Lover’s  Leap  to 
the  Alcove.”  In  the  latter  case  this  description  must  be  inverted. 

The  road  to  the  Old  Passage,  Gloucester,  &c.,  after  passing  the  bridge 
formerly  ascended  the  hill,  which  is  very  steep,  but  it  now  turns  to  the  1., 
winding  round  the  ascent  in  a  gentle,  easy  manner,  so  that  carriages  can 
descend  without  chaining  the  wheel.  This  new  road  commands  the  beau¬ 
ties  of  Piercefield  and  the  river  Wye.  Arrived  at  the  turnpike-gate,  we 
turn  to  the  r.  The  retrospective  view  is  here  rich  and  animated.  It  is 
composed  of  the  Wye,  Chepstow  Castle,  the  busy  scene  of  a  maritime 
port. 

At  the  further  distance  of  l^m.,  is  Beachley  and  the  Passage  House. 
The  views  from  this  place  are  extensive  and  beautiful,  presenting  the  Forest 
of  Dean,  Robin-Hood  Hill,  under  which  lies  the  city  of  Gloucester.  Near 
Beachley,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wye,  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  chapel,  on 
which  the  stream  has  made  great  encroachments.  The  breadth  of  the 
Severn  across  to  Aust  or  the  old  Passage  House,  is  1  m.  Aust  Head,  under 
which  you  land,  is  remarkably  grand,  being  a  bold  elevation  of  about 
300  ft. 

The  New  Passage  House  lies  5  m.  s.  w.  of  Chepstow,  where  the  river  is 
3  m.  across.  This  inn  is  similar  in  respect  to  accommodations  as  the  for¬ 
mer,  built  also  upon  the  summit  of  a  cliff. 

To  Tjntern  Abbey,  the  road  commands  some  luxuriant  and  interesting 
views  till  obscured  by  the  wall  of  Piercefield  Park.  After  a  long  ascent 
under  the  shade  of  large  trees,  a  charming  peep  at  the  Severn  is  caught 
through  the  boughs,  and  some  of  the  recesses  of  Piercefield  woods  are  here 
disclosed.  The  prospect  is  next  obscured  by  the  thick  foliage  of  a  forest ; 
but  anon  occasional  glances  are  caught  of  a  beautiful  country,  which  open¬ 
ings  quickly  expand  into  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  hills  around  Tintern 
Abbey.  The  country  increases  in  beauty,  till  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill  the 
great  western  window  of  the  abbey  overtops  the  trees. 

On  the  high  road  to  Monmouth,  pass  the  Crossgreen  Turnpike,  with 
Piercefield  on  the  r.  to  St.  Arvans,  where  is  a  good  Inn,  2  m.  Pass 
Gaerhill  and  Portcasseg,  through  Chepstow  Park,  and  Devaudon  Green,  to 
Llanjihangel-tor-y-Mynydd,  m.  (On  the  1.  to  Abergaveimy  20  m.) 
Pass  on  the  1.  Llanishen,  and  Penlace,  across  the  Olwy  river,  to  Trelech, 
where  is  an  inn,  4  m.  I  fur.  Cross  Trelech  common.  Midway  from  Tre¬ 
lech  to  Monmouth  pass  Craig-y-Dordd  and  Leidet  House  on  the  1, ;  on  the 
r.  Leidet  Causeway,  and  Penallt.  Near  Monmouth,  Troy  House.  To 
Monmouth,  51m. 

The  NEW  LINE  OF  ROAD  TO  Monmouth,  Tintem  and  Abbey,  3  m.  ; 
Windeliff  on  the  r.  over  the  river;  Brochwear,  2  m. ;  Llandogo,  1  m.; 
Biggswear  and  house  on  s.,  Capt.  Rooke,  1  in.  ;  pass  Bilston  on  the  1. 
and  cross  the  bridge;  Florence  Cottage,  White  Brook,  on  the  1.  1^  ; 

Lower  Bed  Brook  and  Tin -works  ;  Upper  Red  Brook  and  Foundry  ;  Pen¬ 
allt,  over  a  ferry,  2  m.;  Wyesome,  whence  is  a  view  of  Troy  House,  Duke 
of  Beaufort,  1^  m. ;  Monmouth,  2  m. 

To  Striguil  Castle,  pass  Illon  or  Eaton  Court,  3  m.  built  by  J.  Curr, 


202 


CHIRK. 


Esq.  The  adjoining  church  adds  much  to  the  natural  picturesque  beauty 
of  this  spot.  Shire  Newton,  1  m. ;  Striguil  Castle,  5^  m. 

To  Newport^  St.  Pierre,  m. ;  Crick,  1  m. ;  Crick  House,  unoc¬ 
cupied  ;  Caerwent,  1  m.  1.  fur. ;  Penhowe,  m.  on  r.  ;  Wentwood  Lodge, 
Duke  of  Beaufort;  Cat’s  Ash,  6  m.  1. ;  Llanwern  House,  Sir  R.  Salusbury, 
Bart. ;  Christ’s  Church,  3^  m.  cross  the  Usk  ;  Newport,  2  m.  5.  fur. 

Near  Chepstow  is  found  Poiypodium  vulgare. 


To  and  from  Piercefield,  4  miles;  thence  to  the 
New  Passage,  5  miles.  Skrine. 

Newport,  16f  miles. 

Piercefield,  2  miles.  Barber  ;  Coxe. 

Bristol,  I65  miles  by  Aust  Passage. 
Monmouth,  15|  miles. 

Cardiff,  28  miles. 

Mr.  Evans  proceeded  hence  to  Beachley 
Ferry,  3  miles,  where  he  quitted  the 
Principality  of  Wales. 


Mr.  Warner  ended  his  first  Walkthrough 
Wales  at  this  place. 

To  Tintern,  by  water,  9  miles.  Wyndham. 

Mr.  Wyndham  also  passed  from  this  place 
to  Beachley  Ferry,  3  miles,  where  he 
terminated  his  excursions. 

To  Tintern  Abbey,  5  miles. 

Old  Passage,  4  miles.  Manby. 


CHIRK. 

From  Oswestry,  5  miles,  Bingley;  Skrine;  j  From  Llangollen,  7  m.  Evans;  Gilpin;  Pugh. 

Pennant.  I  Ruabon,  6  miles.  Wyndham. 

CHIRK^  or  Eglwys-y-Waun,  is  a  very  neat  and  clean  village^  situated 
upon  the  brow  of  a  hill,  among  coal  and  lime-works^  on  the  s.  e.  confines 
of  Denbighshire,  having  1598  inhabitants.  It  lies  at  the  base  of  the 
Berwyn -range,  and  contains  some  highly  respectable  houses  with  a  good  Inn. 

In  the  churchyard  are  seven  aged  yews,  and  in  the  church  several 
marble  monuments  to  the  Myddletons  of  Chirk  Castle ;  the  best  is  a  bust  of 
Sir  Thomas  Myddleton  and  his  lady.  He  was  a  distinguished  parliamentary 
commander  during  the  civil  wars.  A  square  tower  contains  a  ring  of 
bells  :  this  structure  has  of  late  been  improved  by  subscription,  and  enlarged 
to  the  extent  of  173  sittings.  Chirk  Castle,  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Myddleton 
Biddulph,  is  distant  1  g  m.  from  the  village  in  the  line  of  Clawdd  Offa,  or 
OJfa’s  Dyke,  upon  the  summit  of  a  lofty  hill.  The  extent  of  this  foss  was 
from  the  Severn  below  Chepstow  to  the  mouth  of  the  Dee,  which  parts  the 
counties  of  Flint  and  Cheshire.  By  a  law  of  Egbert,  a.  d.  835,  the 
penalty  of  death  was  attached  to  every  W elshman  who  should  pass  this 
rampart;  and  by  another  law  of  Harold  Harefoot,  if  a  Welshman  should 
come  into  England  without  leave,  and  be  taken  on  that  side  of  Offa’s  Dyke, 
his  right  hand  was  to  be  cut  off  by  the  king’s  officer.  The  Welsh,  on  the 
other  hand,  claimed  all  as  lawful  prizes  which  they  took  from  the  English, 
and  it  is  said  frequently  passed  the  line  in  the  night  to  drive  the  cattle  over 
the  boundary.  The  present  venerable  structure  was  built  upon  the  site  of 
an  ancient  fortress  called  Castell  Crogen.  It,  however,  is  not  of  recent  date, 
having  been  erected  in  the  time  of  Edward  I.,  by  Roger  Mortimer,  to 
whom  the  king  had  granted  the  united  lordship  of  Chirk  and  Nanheudwy. 
It  became  the  property  of  Lord  St.  John  of  Blitso,  whose  son  sold  it,  in 
1595,  to  Sir  Thomas  Myddleton,  Knt.,  afterwards  mayor  of  London.  It 
is  proudly  situated  on  an  eminence  backed  by  the  Berwyn  range.  Like 
that  of  Powys  near  Welshpool,  the  style  of  building  partakes  both  of  the 
castle  and  mansion ;  the  form  is  quadrangular,  having  the  angles  strength¬ 
ened  with  four  massive  towers,  each  surmounted  by  a  small  turret.  The 
front  Avas  once  preceded  by  a  pair  of  iron  gates  of  exquisite  work¬ 
manship,  designed  and  executed  by  a  common  blacksmith,  now  placed 
at  the  entrance  into  the  park  from  Llangollen.  A  fifth  tower  gives 


CHIRK. 


203 


admission  to  a  court  l60  feet  long,  and  100  broad.  Round  this  are  ranged 
the  different  apartments,  and  the  e.  side  is  ornamented  by  a  handsome 
colonnaded  piazza,  or  low  embattled  corridor.  The  principal  of  these  are 
a  saloon,  drawing-room,  &c.  A  picture  gallery,  100  feet  long  and  22 
wide,  contains  a  large  collection  of  paintings,  principally  portraits,  many 
of  which  are  well  executed,  by  celebrated  masters.  Among  the  rest  is 
a  picture  of  Pistyl-Rhaiadyr,  represented  as  falling  into  the  sea !  It 
appears  that  the  artist  employed  to  take  this  "view  was  a  foreigner, 
to  whom  it  was  hinted,  when  he  had  nearly  finished  his  piece,  that 
the  addition  of  a  few  sheep  would  add  to  the  effect.  The  artist  re¬ 
plied,  You  want  some  sheeps  in  it  O  !  O  !  ver  veil !  I  vill  put  you 
some  sheeps  in  it.”  He  then  introduced  the  sea,  and,  ridiculously  enough, 
several  sheeps  (ships).  There  are  portraits  of  the  military  character  of 
Sir  Thomas  Myddleton,  the  great  Duke  of  Ormond,  Sir  Orlando  Bridge- 
man,  the  ill-famed  Countess  of  Warwick,  afterwards  wife  of  Joseph  Addison, 
&c.  &c.  This  part  of  the  structure  has  been  much  altered  and  greatly 
embellished  by  Mrs.  Myddleton  Biddulph. 

The  Park  is  extensive,  reaching  to  the  foot  of  the  Berwyn  mountains  ; 
and  covered  in  places  with  lofty  forest  trees,  disposed  with  great  taste. 
The  pleasure-grounds  are  well  laid  out,  and  the  different  plantations 
tastefully  arranged.  But  the  view  from  the  elevation  near  the  house  is 
incomparable.  Seventeen  counties,  as  a  natural  map,  spread  their  varied 
beauties  before  the  eye  of  the  spectator.  Towards  England,  the  plain  and 
town  of  Shrewsbury,  its  towers  and  spires,  the  Clee  Hills,  extending  to¬ 
wards  the  Malvern  Hills  in  Worcestershire;  the  solitary  Wrekin  ;  the 
high  land  bounding  the  Vale  Royal  of  Chester  :  towards  Wales,  Llangollen 
Vale,  Castell  Dinas  Bran,  the  boisterous  Dee;  the  range  of  mountains 
dividing  the  counties  of  Merioneth  and  Montgomery,  the  Clwyddian  Hills, 
and  the  Snowdonian  chain.  A  new  road  embracing  much  attractive 
scenery  in  the  vale  of  Ceiriog,  is  formed  as  a  substitute  for  that  which  led 
from  the  villages,  avoiding  a  steep  hill.  According  to  a  paper  communi¬ 
cated  to  the  Antiquarian  Society,  by  J.  Myddleton,  Esq.,  the  castle  was 
begun  in  1011,  and  finished  in  1013  ;  the  repairs  of  one  of  the  wings,  in 
Cromwell’s  time,  cost  nearly  28,000Z.  The  length  of  the  front  is  250 
feet.  However,  when  Sir  Thomas  Myddleton,  in  the  civil  wars,  revolted 
from  the  parliament,  this  castle  was  besieged,  and  one  side,  with  three  of 
its  towers,  was  destroyed  ;  but  were  rebuilt  in  one  year,  at  the  enormous 
expense  of  80,000Z.  Adam’s  tower  is  80  feet  high,  containing  a  dungeon 
as  deep  as  the  walls  of  the  castle  are  high,  A  National  school  is  established 
by  Mrs.  Biddulph,  to  whom  the  village  is  chiefly  indebted  for  the  great 
improvement  it  has  undergone  since  her  possession  of  this  splendid 
domain.  The  son  of  this  lady,  Robert  Myddleton  Biddulph,  paternally 
descended  from  the  Biddulphs  of  Ledbury  in  Herefordshire,  lately  repre¬ 
sented  the  county  in  parliament.  The  Ellesmere  Canal,  in  its  line  near 
Chirk,  passes  across  a  deep  narrow  valley  :  here  the  number  of  double 
locks,  and  a  circuitous  route  would  have  proved  tedious  and  expensive;  the 
engineer,  therefore,  had  recourse  to  an  aqueduct  consisting  of  ten  arches 
resting  upon  pyramidal  piers  of  stone.  This  canal  is  carried  over  the 
river  and  vale  of  Ceiriog,  an  extent  of  230  yards,  and  about  the  centre  65 
ft.  in  height.  But  the  projector  had  not  proceeded  in  an  horizontal 
direction  far,  before  he  had  to  encounter,  from  similar  causes,  tenfold  more 
formidable  difficulties  :  a  still  deeper  ravine  was  presented,  through  which 
the  Dee  passes  with  considerable  force.  Mr.  Thomas  Telford,  the  engineer, 
like  the  celebrated  Brindley,  erased  from  his  nomenclature  the  term  im- 


204 


CILGERRAN. 


possibility/^  and  recourse  was  had  to  another  aqueduct  upon  a  more 
enlarged  scale.  See  Pont-y-Cyssylltau,  under  the  article  Llangollen. 
Upon  the  Ceh’iog  are  several  paper-mills  ;  coals  are  abundant^  and  there 
are  quarries  of  excellent  stone.  One  mile  n.  e.  of  Chirk  is  Bryn-Kinallt, 
a  seat  of  Lord  Dungannon^  representative  of  the  ancient  Welsh  family  of 
the  Trevors.  The  mansion  is  elegant^  and,  some  years  since,  was  enlarged 
and  new  fronted. 

Two  miles  from  Chirk,  on  the  road  to  Ruabon,  is  a  pleasing  view  down 
a  woody  vale,  in  the  bottom  of  which  runs  the  river  Dee;  but  a  little 
farther  at  New  Bridge,  this  is  exceeded  by  another  view  more  interesting. 

Out  of  the  road,’'  says  Mr.  Bingley,  (who  visited  this  neighbourhood  in 
September  1798)  about  100  yards  above  the  bridge,  such  a  scene  was 
presented  to  me,  that  had  I  possessed  the  pencil  of  a  Claude,  I  could  have 
painted  one  of  the  most  exquisite  landscapes  the  eye  ever  beheld.  The 
river  here  darted  along  a  rugged  bed,  and  rocky  banks  clad  with  wood, 
where  every  varied  tint  that  autumn  could  afford  added  to  their  effect,  cast 
a  darkening  shade  upon  the  stream.  VUith  the  green  oak,  all  the  different 
hues  of  the  ash,  the  elm,  and  the  hazel,  were  intermingled.  Above  the  bridge 
arose  a  few  cottages  surrounded  with  foliage.  The  evening  was  calm,  and 
the  smoke,  tinged  by  the  setting  sun  descended  upon  the  vale,  while  the 
distant  mountains  were  brightened  by  his  beams  into  a  fine  purple.  I 
contemplated  these  beauties  till  the  declining  sun  had  sunk  beneath  the 
horizon,  and  twilight  had  begun  to  steal  over  the  landscape,  blending  into 
one,  every  different  shade  of  reflection." 

On  the  way  to  Llangollen,  Mr.  Pennant  ascended  the  front  of  Cefn 
Uchaf.  The  distant  view  from  this  lofty  hill  is  boundless.  One  side 
impends  over  a  most  beautiful  valley,  watered  by  the  Dee,  diversified  with 
groves,  and  bounded  towards  the  end  by  barren  and  naked  rocks,  tier  above 
tier.  Fumaria  claviculata,  is  abundant  in  hedges  by  the  road-side  near 
Llangollen.  The  whole  of  the  road  has  been  improved  by  the  Parliamentary 
Commissioners. 

The  Berwyn  range  of  mountains  rises  near  Chirk  Castle,  and  takes  a 
parallel  course  with  the  Snowdonian  range,  towards  the  s.  w.,  proceeds  to 
the  lofty  summits  of  Cadair-Ferwyn,  Trum-y-Sarn,  Aran  Fowddwy,  and 
Cader  Idris ;  it  then  makes  a  rapid  descent  of  2850  feet,  within  the 
space  of  12  m.,  and  plunges  into  Cardigan  bay  at  Sarn-y-Bwlch. 

To  Oswestry,  cross  the  river  Ceiriog,  and  Ellesmere  canal  to  the  New 
Inn,  1  m.  (On  the  1.  are  Morton-hall  and  Pentre  Kenrick,  Gob- Owen, 
3  m. ;  to  Oswestry,  2|m.  Mentha  viridis  grows  by  the  side  of  rills  in 
the  vale  of  Ceiriog. 

To  Ruabon,  6  miles.  Bingley;  Skrine;  Gilpin.  To  Oswestry,  .'5  miles.  Warner;  Pugh. 

Mr.  Evans  terminates  his  Detail  of  a  Llangollen,  7  miles.  Wyndham;  Pennant. 

Tour  in  North  Wales  with  this  place. 


CILGERRAN. 

From  Cardigan,  3  miles.  Barber;  Malkin;  From  Narberth,  20  miles.  Wyndham.  ; 
Evans  ;  Skrine  ;  Warner.  Tenby,  30  miles.  Fenton. 

CILGERRAN,  pronounced  Kilgerran,  in  Pembrokeshire,  consists  of  one 
irregular  street,  straggling  at  least  half  a  mile  from  the  church,  said  for¬ 
merly  to  have  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  It  is  inhabited  by  labouring 
farmers  and  fisliermen  ;  yet  to  this  assertion  must  be  excepted  the  curate’s 


CILGERRAN. 


205 


little  mansion,  a  cottage  completely  wooded  with  ivy.  It  is  situated  upon 
the  river  Teifi,  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  hill.  This  ancient  village  is  governed 
by  a  portrieve  and  bailiffs.  Aug.  21.  Nov.  12.  Its  Castle  crowns, 

with  truly  picturesque  grandeur  the  summit  of  a  naked  rock  which  rises 
proudly  from  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  position  of  Cilgerran  Castle  is 
nearly  self-defended  on  all  sides ;  but  on  the  isthmus  which  connects  the 
projecting  rock  with  the  main  land,  two  ponderous  round  towers  seem  to 
have  formerly  defied  the  assault  of  war,  as  they  now  do  that  of  pilfering 
dilapidation.  The  broken  walls,  watch-towers,  and  apartments  which 
compose  the  minor  parts  of  this  fortress,  bespeak  that  it  has  been  of  no 
great  extent,  nor  highly  ornamented ;  yet  the  scattered  relics,  variously  in¬ 
terwoven  with  ivy,  offer  an  appearance  from  most  points  of  view  highly 
imposing  and  grand.  It  had  once  another  ballium  or  ward  flanked  with 
bastions,  the  foundation  of  which  may  be  clearly  traced.  The  inner  ward 
is  extensive,  involving  the  keep  and  state  apartments.  Here  also,  within 
the  walls  of  this  fortification,  is  the  site  of  Capel  Bach,  a  sacred  edifice.  The 
surrounding  avenues  leading  from  the  village  to  the  castle  are  called  Pum- 
porth,  the  five  gates  there  having  formed  that  number  of  entrances,  besides  a 
sallyport  opening  on  the  e.  side  of  the  cape  it  occupies.  The  foundation 
of  the  castle  is  uncertain,  and  the  styles  of  different  ages  appear  throughout 
the  building.  According  to  Caradoc,  this  fortress  was  erected  about  the 
year  1223,  when  Marshall  Earl  of  Striguil  (Chepstow)  vanquished  the 
Welsh  under  their  prince  Gryffydd,  and  gained  an  undisputed  footing  in 
these  parts.  (J.  T.  BarherC^  The  beautiful  scenery  around  this  castle,” 
says  Sir  Richard  Hoare,  stands  unequalled  in  S.  Wales,  and  can  only  be 
rivalled  by  that  of  Conway  in  N.  Wales;  but  it  must  be  visited  by  water, 
down  the  river,  not  by  land.  Having  skirted  the  sides  of  a  long  and  ex¬ 
tensive  marsh,  a  sudden  bend  of  the  river  contracting  its  channel,  conducts 
us  into  a  narrow  pass,  surrounded  by  a  perpendicular  rampart  of  wood  and 
rock,  with  steep  and  precipitate  banks  of  oak  and  copse  wood,  feathering 
down  to  the  water’s  edge  :  the  first  view  we  catch  of  the  castle  at  a  dis¬ 
tance,  between  a  perspective  range  of  well- wooded  hills,  is  very  striking; 
and  what,  on  a  nearer  approach,  it  may  lose  in  picturesque  beauty,  it  cer¬ 
tainly  gains  in  grandeur  ;  the  proud  walls  of  a  large  castle  appear  towering 
full  in  front ;  the  hill  on  which  they  stand  is  rather  destitute  of  wood,  but 
boldly  broken  with  projecting  rocks  ;  and,  perhaps,  the  general  effect  of 
the  landscape  may  not  lose  by  this  contrast  to  the  rich  surrounding  scenery 
of  wood.  I  have  never  seen  ruins  more  happily  combined  with  rocks,  wood 
and  water  ;  a  more  pleasing  composition,  or  a  more  captivating  landscape, 
which  is  animated  by  the  numerous  coracles  employed  in  catching  salmon. 

The  church  of  Cilgerran,  dedicated  to  Llawddog,  as  seen  from  the  bot¬ 
tom  of  the  hill  upon  which  it  stands,  forms  a  very  interesting  subject  for  the 
pencil ;  but  there  is  nothing  within  or  without  worthy  of  particular  atten¬ 
tion,  except  a  beautiful  fragment  of  the  rood-loft,  yet  remaining.  In  a 
romantic  hollow,  a  mile  or  two  higher,  near  the  village  of  Cenarth,  or  Car- 
narth-mawr,  the  ancient  residence  of  Llawddog  ;  in  Giraldus’s  time  the 
church,  dedicated  to  this  saint,  the  mill,  the  bridge,  salmon-leap,  and  orchard, 
with  a  delightful  garden,  all  stood  together  upon  a  small  plot  of  ground  ;  and 
he  remarks  that  the  Teifi  has  a  singular  particularity,  being  the  only  river 
in  Wales,  or  even  in  England,  which  has  beavers,  and  he  enters  into  a  long 
description  of  the  animal,  its  habits,  &c.  Sir  Richard  Hoare,  who  is  the 
latest  commentator  on  Giraldus,  thinks  that  avanc  is  a  local  name  for  the 
common  otter,  an  animal  exceedingly  well  known  ;  but  it  is  not  likely  that 
Giraldus  would  have  been  so  minute  in  his  description  of  the  beaver  if  it 


206 


CILGERRAN. 


had  been  as  common.  The  Teifi  falls  over  a  ledge  of  rock  in  one  bold  sheets 
though  not  more  than  6  ft.  in  depth_,  forming  a  salmon-leap,  generally  con¬ 
sidered  the  most  remarkable  in  Wales.  Their  manner  of  fishing  is  curious. 
The  fisherman  is  seated  in  a  kind  of  canoe^  called  a  coracle,  formed  of  basket- 
work  of  thin  lathS;,  covered  with  a  horse’s  hide^  or  a  well  pitched  piece  of 
sail-cloth.  The  vessel  is  nearly  oval^  about  4^  ft.  long  and  3  wide,  yet  so 
light  as  to  be  easily  carried  upon  the  shoulders.  In  this  skiff*  he  steers  his 
way  with  a  paddle  in  one  hand,  while  with  the  other  he  manages  the  net, 
holding  the  line  between  his  teeth.  Near  this  waterfall  is  a  manufactory  of 
iron  and  tinned  plates,  the  property  of  Sir  Benjamin  Hammet.  While  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Cilgerran,  Mr.  Fenton  engaged,  in  company  with  John 
Hammet,  Esq.,  the  former  resident  of  Castell  Maelgwn,  to  make  a  visit  to 
the  mountains,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  some  of  the  ancient  sepulchres. 
Mr.  Hammet  having  employed  a  number  of  labourers,  they,  with  a  sumpter- 
cart,  set  out  with  their  directors.  Brennin-fawr ,  the  most  easterly  of  the 
Pembrokeshire  hills,  was  destined  for  the  scene  of  demolition.  Had  they 
had  no  other  pursuit,  they  found  that  the  enchanting  prospect  which  this 
eminence  commands  would  have  superabundantly  repaid  the  toil.  The 
Tumulus  on  which  the  attack  was  made  occurred  the  first  after  the  mid¬ 
acclivity  of  the  mountain  had  been  gained.  Its  dimensions  might  be  30  ft. 
in  diameter,  and  about  8  ft.  8  in.  high.  A  large  section  was  made,  and,  at 
the  depth  of  2  ft.,  marks  of  cremation  appeared.  At  2^  ft.  further,  several 
flat  stones  were  tiled  one  over  the  other ;  underneath  was  a  receptacle  of 
the  size  and  shape  of  a  common  country  oven,  3  ft.  in  diameter  and  2  in 
depth  ;  being  opened,  it  was  found  full  of  water ;  there  was  a  coarse  flag 
at  bottom,  and  similar  stones  forming  the  sides.  iVfter  laving  out  the  water, 
fragments  appeared  of  a  large  urn  of  very  rude  pottery,  and  half-burnt 
bones,  intermixed  with  a  thick  black  sediment,  apparently  decomposed  char¬ 
coal.  This  substance  was  carefully  searched,  expecting  that  it  contained 
beads,  amulets,  bone  utensils,  arrow-heads,  or  other  relics,  which  generally 
accompany  such  interments  upon  the  downs  of  \Tiltshire,  but  nothing  of 
this  kind  was  discovered.  Two  other  tumuli  nearer  the  summit  were  inter¬ 
sected,  but  no  discovery  made ;  they  seemed  to  have  been  ransacked  before. 
The  monarch  barrow  upon  the  summit  of  the  mountain  seemed  to  have 
shared  the  fate  of  those  just  mentioned ;  it  had  moreover  been  converted 
into  a  beacon.  The  party  returned  to  Castell  Maelgwn  by  a  different  route, 
across  a  delightful  vale. 

Mr.  Fenton  concerted  an  Excursion,  including  the  whole  range  of  the 
Precelly,  with  the  plain  at  its  foot  to  the  n.  The  road  for  a  few  miles 
was  the  same  as  that  before  described  to  Brennin-fawr  ;  but  after  passing 
the  base  of  that  mountain,  and  crossing  a  heath,  upon  which  are  several 
tumuli,  turn  to  the  r.  and  fall  in  with  traces  of  the  old  Roman  road,  which 
ranges  over  the  highest  ridge  of  the  Precelly  Hills.  It  passes  close  to  a 
carnedd  which  seems  to  have  been  plundered.  Hence  by  a  considerable 
ascent  reach  the  top  of  Mod  Trigarn,  crowned  with  an  extensive  encamp¬ 
ment,  including  within  its  area  three  immense  earns.  To  the  e.  are  three 
lines  of  loose  stone  ramparts,  on  the  n.  two  ;  on  the  s.  two  ;  on  the  w. 
only  one.  Patches  of  boggy  turbury  occur  in  this  progress,  and  insulated 
rocky  portions.  In  the  shelter  of  one  are  scattered  remains  of  Druidic 
work.  A  few  of  the  more  elevated  points  of  this  mountain  ridge  terminate 
in  conical  heaps  of  stones.  The  Roman  road  is  mostly  overgrown,  or  lost 
in  the  sponginess  of  the  soil.  The  whole  kingdom  may  be  challenged  to 
furnish  a  view  more  intelligibly  extensive  and  more  interestingly  diversified, 
than  appears  from  the  summit  of  this  mountain.  The  objects  are  these  ; 
the  sea,  with  its  sinuous  outline  of  rocky  coast,  like  a  belt ;  Milford  Haven, 


CILGERRAN. 


207 

like  a  cluster  of  small  lakes  ;  Lundy ;  the  coast  of  Devon  ;  sometimes^  the 
Wicklow  Hills  in  Ireland.  The  lowland  country  stretching  from  the  base 
of  this  mountain  is  richly  cultivated^  and  lies  like  a  map  beneath.  At  the 
base  of  this  mountain  are  some  detached  rocks ;  upon  one  is  an  agger  of 
loose  stonesj  as  upon  Moel  Trigarn_,  to  which  it  might  have  served  as  an 
outpost,  lying  directly  under  it. 

From  the  neighbourhood  of  Cilgerran,  Mr.  Fenton  next  made  an  Excur¬ 
sion  in  the  hundred  of  Cemmaes,  conquered  by  a  Norman  knight,  by  his  own 
forces.  Martin  deTurribus,bent  on  conquest,  equipped  a  considerable  arma¬ 
ment  and  put  to  sea,  when  after  coasting  the  island  he  was  tempted  by  the 
clear  andhpen  bay  of  Fishguard  to  land  there,  and  erected  his  standard  upon 
the  height, of  Cronllwyn.  The  natives  made  a  stand  against  him  at  Morfil, 
where  a  bloody  skirmish  took  place.  He  was  opposed  at  Meliney,  White- 
church,  and  Nantgwyn,  yet  maintained  successful  dominion,  although 
goaded  by  Gryfydd  ap  Rhys,  during  the  whole  of  his  reign  and  part  of 
the  reign  of  his  son.  The  marriage  of  William  Martin  with  a  daughter 
of  Lord  Rhys,  induced  at  length  a  mutual  convention.  Rhys  had  his 
principal  residence  at  Newport  Castle.  Leaving  the  range  of  the  Precelly 
Hills  to  the  1.  proceed  on  the  flat  road  at  the  base,  past  Tavarn  Bwlch,  and 
enter  the  parish  of  Eglwys  Gwyn.  The  church,  dedicated  to  St.  Michael, 
has  been  lately  rebuilt,  and  confirms  the  appellation  of  white,  which  it 
bears,  being  very  neat  and  clean,  a  quality  which  can  be  ascribed  but  to 
few  of  the  Welsh  churches.  In  a  wood,  almost  opposite,  is  a  respectable 
mansion  called  Whitechurch.  This  parish,  like  St.  David's,  is  free  from 
adders.  The  inhabitants  are  expert  at  the  scientific  game  of  chess,  which 
they  call  Fristiol  Tawlbwrdd,  supposed  to  have  been  instituted  here  by  the 
Norman  invaders.  Some  consider  chess  as  a  primitive  amusement,  brought 
from  the  East  by  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  ;  others  refer  its  introduction 
to  the  time  of  Arthur,  being  practised  in  his  splendid  court. 

At  the  foot  of  Bwlchgwynt,  called  sometimes  Windyport  (a  pass  over  the 
Precelly  ridge)  is  a  heathy  plain,  called  Cefn  Diannel.  Upon  this  spot  the 
invader  of  Cemmaes  was  met  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  parishes. 
At  a  short  distance  stands  the  ancient  mansion  of  Hin~llan  Owen,  once 
the  property  of  Howel  ap  Jenkin  ap  Rotpert  of  Nevern.  It  is  now  an  or¬ 
dinary  farm-house.  Pursuing  the  great  mountain  road  from  Haverford¬ 
west  to  Cardigan,  cross  the  Nevern  river  at  Pont  Cynan,  and  arrive  at 
Eglwyserw,  a  small  picturesque  village  containing  a  church,  a  comfortable 
inn,  and  a  large  shop  supplied  with  articles  of  the  most  general  demand. 
A  redundant  stream  running  through  the  village,  sinks  into  a  dingle  prettily 
wooded.  The  church  is  a  plain  low  structure  without  tower  or  any  deco¬ 
ration.  It  is  dedicated  to  SL  Erw,  whose  festival  is  held  November  SA. 

Half  a  mile  n.  of  the  village  is  the  manor-house  called  Cwrt,  where 
David  Martin,  third  son  of  Sir  William  Martin,  who  was  bishop  of  St. 
David’s,  occasionally  resided.  Few  are  the  remaining  vestiges  of  its  an¬ 
cient  respectability.  For  many  years  Eglwyserw  had  the  honour  of  en¬ 
tertaining  the  gentlemen  of  the  bar  who  attended  the  Carmarthen  circuit 
annually,  on  their  way  from  Haverfordwest  to  Cardigan.  A  fete  cham- 
pHre  at  this  place  furnished  Sir  William  Jones’s  muse  with  a  subject. 

Within  this  manor,  the  lord  has  a  wood  called  Pencelly  Forest,  which 
contained  in  George  Owen’s  time  about  500  acres  ;  it  is  enclosed  with 
quickset  and  paling.  Having  passed  this  forest,  come  to  Crugiau  Cemmaes, 
a  very  large  group  of  tumuli ;  one  of  them  appears  to  have  been  opened. 
Mr.  Fenton  called  here  on  John  Evans,  Esq.  of  Gldstir,  with  whom  and 
another  friend  they  rode  to  see  Llech-y-Trihedd,  the  most  perfect  cromlech 
in  this  county.  Mr.  Fenton  has  enriched  the  title-page  to  his  Historical 


208 


CILGERRAN. 


Tour  in  Pembrokeshire,”  with  a  vignette  of  this  curiosity  from  the  elegant 
pencil  of  Sir  Richard  Hoare.  It  is  supported  upon  three  short  upright 
stones.  The  incumbent  stone  is  about  40  ft.  in  circumference  and  its 
*  thickness  from  3  to  4  ft.  At  the  w.  end  of  the  field  pass  a  stone  called 
Maen-y-Tritivea:,  or  timon  (the  stone  of  the  three  heirs).  Glastir  was  an¬ 
ciently  the  glebe-house  of  the  rectory  of  Nevern.  [See  its  history  in  Fen¬ 
ton,  p.  535.]  In  this  promontory,  bounded  by  the  Teifi  and  the  Nevern, 
and  on  the  w.  by  the  sea,  the  principal  Norman  invaders  settled :  their  re¬ 
sidences  were  thickly  placed,  but  are  now  degenerated  to  mere  farm-houses. 
In  this  vicinity  were  Trecaman,  once  the  seat  of  Peverel ;  Tredryssey,  the 
family  of  Cole;  Rhos-y-Baivyl,  Peverels  ;  3Ionington  (Elgwys  Wythw), 
the  Martins,  the  Roches,  and  Lord  of  Towyn ;  Moyl  Grove,  eg:  Maltes  ; 
Hendres,  the  Lloyds.  Coed  Wynok  is  another  house,  built  in  Queen  Eliza¬ 
beth’s  time  by  an  ancestor  of  the  present  Lord  Kensington,  the  Rev. 
Richard  Edwardes,  chancellor  of  St.  David’s.  Hence,  under  the  convoy  of 
his  friend,  Mr.  Fenton  examined  the  alum  well  at  Treruffydd  ;  whether  im¬ 
pregnated  with  that  substance  he  cannot  say,  but  as  a  chalybeate  it  has  been 
pronounced  inferior  to  Tunbridge  water  only.  The  crocus,  an  inseparable 
characteristic  of  this  property  in  water,  is  here  abundant.  The  spring  is 
enclosed  with  stone  and  mortar,  and  below  is  a  capacious  bason  for  bathing. 
It  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  pretty  dingle,  at  the  head  of  which  stands 
the  farm-house. 

On  the  N.  side  observe  a  curious  opening  in  the  cliff,  nearly  circular, 
admitting  the  sea  through  an  arch  below,  similar  to  those  of  St.  Go  van’s, 
but  not  half  so  capacious.  Ascend  the  opposite  hill  to  examine  an  encamp¬ 
ment,  probably  Danish,  called  Treruffydd  Castle,  a  peninsula  consisting  of 
about  one  acre,  the  last  retreat  of  the  Scandinavian  pirates.  George  Owen 
says  it  resembles  Tintagel  Castle,  in  Cornwall.  To  the  s.,  from  this  spot, 
gain  a  charming  view  of  the  rich  vale  of  Nevern,  ending  at  Newport,  with 
the  Pembrokeshire  mountains  from  Vrenny-vawr,  till  the  eye,  in  pursuing 
their  summits,  sinks  into  the  ocean  at  the  bold  promontory  of  Dinas.  Pro¬ 
ceed  to  Trellyfan,  or  Toadstown,  a  place  mentioned  by  Giraldus  Cambrensis, 
who  relates  a  singular  story  of  a  person  here  being  destroyed  by  toads.  The 
figure  of  a  toad,  sculptured  in  black  marble,  is  introduced  on  a  chimney- 
piece,  which  place  it  has  occupied  for  several  centuries.  In  this  family 
every  one  of  the  present,  as  well  as  former  generations,  are  upwards  of  6  ft. 
high.  In  the  cliffs,  not  far  from  Foel-goch,  it  is  said  a  liquid  oozes  out,  in 
taste  and  colour  like  milk  and  water.  Descend  to  Nevern,  where,  upon  a 
high  hill,  appear  the  slight  remains  of  the  Castle,  which  exhibit  indications 
of  great  extent  and  strength.  On  one  side  it  was  inaccessible,  the  wall 
following  the  edge  of  a  rocky  ravine ;  on  the  others,  by  a  deep  foss  hewn 
out  of  the  solid  rock.  It  appears  to  have  been  a  square  building,  with  a 
bastion  at  each  angle.  This  castle  of  Llanhyfer  seems  to  have  been  the 
principal  palace  of  the  reguli  of  Dyfed ;  and  after  the  extinction  of  those 
petty  dynasties,  to  have  been  considered  a  valuable  gem,  a  sort  of  heirloom 
in  the  S.  Wales  diadem,  of  which  the  princes  were  jealous.  The  situation 
of  the  village  of  Nevern  is  beautiful,  in  the  midst  of  rich  meadowy’s,  gardens, 
and  orchards,  upon  the  margin  of  a  fine  river,  and  surrounded  by  richly- 
wooded  hills.  The  Church  is  a  handsome  building,  placed  in  a  cemetery 
of  great  extent,  filled  with  yew-trees.  For  the  tower,  and  probably  for  the 
greatest  part  of  the  exterior,  we  are  indebted  to  the  Norman  era.  It  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Brynach,  who  was  contemporary  with  St.  David.  In 
the  cemetery  is  one  of  those  early  crosses,  consisting  of  a  tall  shaft,  like 
that  represented  as  standing  in  front  of  Carew  Castle,  but  more  elegantly 


CILGERRAN. 


209 

■wrought.  It  is  a  single  stone,  2  ft.  broad,  18  in.  thick,  and  13  high,  neatly- 
carved  upon  all  sides,  with  knot  work.  The  top  is  circular,  charged  with 
a  cross. 

Nevern  is  the  largest  parish  in  the  county.  The  ruins  of  a  venerable  old 
mansion,  and  other  houses  of  lesser  note  interspersed  with  trees,  form 
together  a  pleasing  scene.  This  mansion  was  begun  by  Howel  ap  Jenkin 
ap  Rotpert.  Nevern  was  originally  a  chief  borough,  with  a  portrieve,  18 
burbages,  and  had  courts  for  its  government.  A  private  gate  opens  hence 
into  the  village,  and  a  permissive  road  leads  through  charming  woods  to 
the  Llwyngwair,  the  seat  of  George  Bowen,  Esq.;  a  situation  rendered  de¬ 
sirable  by  its  approximating  advantages,  being  on  the  margin  of  a  large  river, 
encircled  by  woods,  the  gardens  excellent,  and  the  demesne  highly  cultivated, 
it  commands  a  pleasing  view  of  Newport  and  its  castle,  backed  by  the 
hoary  mountain  of  Car7i  Englyn.  This  place  fell  to  a  Norman  follower 
named  Cole,  who  discovered  the  marl  in  this  county. 

Upon  the  other  side  of  the  river,  which  flows  under  the  house  of  Llwyn¬ 
gwair,  is  the  farm  of  Bury,  with  a  richly- wooded  hill,  which  forms  one  of 
the  most  conspicuous  features  in  that  vale.  This  tenement  formerly 
attached  to  the  lord  of  Cemmaes,  and  was  the  principal  grange  belonging 
to  the  fortress  ;  but  this  valuable  demesne,  together  with  the  castle  of  New¬ 
port,  has  been  alienated  from  the  lordship. 

A  more  romantic  and  sequestered  path  than  is  traced  beside  the  Teifi, 
from  Pont  Lechryd  to  Liang oedmawr,  on  the  n.  side,  can  scarcely  be  ima¬ 
gined.  In  the  parish  of  the  latter  village  there  are  several  Druidic  monu¬ 
ments  :  one  is  a  remarkably  large  co'omlech  ;  the  flat  stone  being  8  or  9 
yards  in  circumference,  with  one  edge  resting  on  the  ground.  There  is  a 
smaller  monument  near  it  of  the  same  kind,  also  a  circle  of  rude  stones  about 
12  yards  round,  and  5  beds  of  loose  stones,  each  about  ()  feet  over.  Llech 
y  gowres  (the  stone  of  a  giantess)  in  the  parish  of  Neuadd,  near  Cardigan, 
is  another  very  large  cromlech;  and  contiguous  are  19  large  hewn  stones, 
which  the  vulgar  say  cannot  be  counted. 

On  the  road  to  Aberaeron,  at  the  poor  village  of  Blaenportli,  on  the 
1.,  6  m.,  is  a  large  circular  area  encompassed  by  a  moat,  most  probably  the 
remains  of  a  British  fortification.  A  mile  or  two  further  is  a  similar  work, 
called  Castell-Yndalig.  It  is  much  larger  than  the  former,  but  less  dis¬ 
tinct.  Beginning  to  ascend  a  tract  of  lofty  hills  (leaving  Fenhryn  church 
on  the  left  near  the  sea-shore),  and  gaining  a  considerable  eminence,  an 
uninterrupted  view  over  the  whole  sweep  of  the  bay  of  Cardigan  is  pre¬ 
sented.  This  bay,  from  its  southern  limit,  Stumblehead,  near  Fishguard, 
stretching  northward,  extends  a  vast  gulf  into  N.  Wales,  and  is  at  length 
terminated  by  Bardsey  island  in  Caernarvonshire.  ‘‘The  effect  of  this  exten¬ 
sive  display,”  says  Mr.  Barber,  “from  the  great  elevation  which  we  traversed, 
was  extremely  striking  ;  stretching  from  beneath  us  to  a  remote  horizon, 
the  sea  exhibited  a  silvery  surface  of  immense  magnitude;  vvhih  the  shores 
presented  an  endless  variety  of  bold  advancing  promontoiies,  overhanging 
cliffs,  and  high  swelling  mountains,  wild  and  desolate  ;  yet  here  and  there  a 
stripe  of  green  meadow  appeared  on  a  favoured  slope,  and  a  few  woody 
plantations  disclosed  themselves  through  picturesque  hollows.  In  the  dis¬ 
tant  boundary  of  Caernarvonshire,  the  projecting  and  receding  hills  about 
Pwllheli  bay  were  conspicuous;  opposed  to  these,  the  superior  magnitude 
of  Cader  Idris  arrested  the  attention,  towering  among  the  craggy  sum¬ 
mits  of  the  Merionethshire  mountains.  From  the  bay,  our  view  roamed 
over  a  dreary  uninteresting  tract  of  country  to  a  ridge  of  mountains,  whose 
broken  outlines  mingling  with  the  clouds  defend  the  entrance  of  N. Wales: 


210 


CONWY. 


there^  proudly  rising  above  competition^  the  confederated  mountains^  form¬ 
ing  the  pile  of  mighty  Plinlimmon,  appear  in  all  their  native  majesty ! This 
road  generally  lies  on  a  rocky  track  or  turnpike^  and  gives  the  sensation  of 
tediousness.  The  market-town  of  Llanay'th,  consisting  of  half  a  dozen 
huts  seated  in  a  romantic  hollow^  at  the  distance  of  14  miles  from  Cil- 
gerran,  afford  some  relief.  Four  miles  further  is  Aberaeron. 

As  there  is  nothing  on  the  turnpike-road  to  Newport,  to  deserve 
attention,  Mr.  Malkin  recommends  crossing  a  very  wild  heath,  from  St. 
DogmaeV^,  to  the  village  of  Trevithel,  which  is  a  pretty  recess,  watered 
by  a  fresh  stream.  To  Nevern  the  country  continues  dismal,  but  the 
descent  has  something  of  the  agreeable  mingled  with  its  wildness.  But 
the  most  important  relic  in  this  neighbourhood  is  a  cromlech  mentioned 
under  Dyffryn  House.  [See  Cowbridge.]  This  is  at  the  distance  of  one 
mile  from  Newport  Castle.  The  village  of  Velindre  is  in  a  pleasing  situ¬ 
ation.  Llwyngwair,  the  seat  of  George  Bowen,  Esq.,  is  in  a  sheltered 
situation,  on  the  side  of  the  Nevern.  The  castle  of  Newport  looks  well 
from  this  place. 

To  Narberth  occurs  Eglwyserw,  a  sequestered  village  shut  out  of 
the  world  by  a  girdle  of  mountains ;  an  effort  brings  the  traveller  to  the 
summit  of  Percelly  mountain,  which  exhibits  masses  of  rock  in  fantastic 
shapes  and  uncommon  groups.  Here  is  a  fine  cromlech  called  L,ech-y-Blai% , 
the  great  stone  of  the  female  wolf.  A  Druidic  temple  occurs  in  a  field 
to  the  r.,  at  the  point  where  is  entered  the  Narberth  turnpike-road. 
About  400  yards  to  the  1.  of  the  road,  and  nearly  in  a  straight  line  with 
the  temple,  stands  another  immense  oblong  stone,  placed  upright,  called 
Maen-y-Gwyr. 

To  Aberaeron,  25|  miles.  Barber  ;  Skrine.  To  Narberth,  20  miles.  Warner. 

Newport,  10  miles.  Malkin  ;  Fenton.  Cardigan,  3  miles.  Wyndham. 

Newcastle  Emlyn,  8  miles.  Evans. 


CONWY. 


From  Llanddulas,  9  miles.  Bingley. 

Penmaenmawr,  6  miles.  Pennant ;  Aikin  ; 
Evans  ;  Warner. 

Llanrwst,  12 miles.  Skrine;  Hutton. 
Rhyddlanto  Conwy  Ferry,  by  way  of  Aber¬ 
gele,  16  miles.  Skrine, 


From  Bangor,  14^  miles.  Hutton  ;  Gilpin. 

Abergele,  llj  miles.  Warner’s  2d  walk  : 
Pugh. 

Beaumaris  to  Menai  Bridge,  thence  over 
Penmaenmawr,  14  miles.  Wyndham. 
Llandudno,  Smiles.  Gilpin. 


CONWY,  from  Cynwy,  the  great  river,”  situated  upon  the  northern 
angle  of  Caernarvonshire,  is  a  large,  picturesque,  and  anciently  fortified 
town.  I  ts  shape  is  nearly  triangular,  and  it  presents  a  rare  example  of  the 
Saracenic  style.  Some  have  thought  that  it  was  the  Conovium  of  the 
Romans,  but  this  was  more  probably  at  Caer  Rhun,  5  m.  distant.  The 
river  Conwy  runs  upon  the  e.  side,  and  is  navigable  as  far  as  Trefriw, 
12  m.  upwards.  The  annals  of  this  place  commence  no  earlier  than  with 
the  history  of  its  Castle,  which  was  erected  in  1284,  by  command  of  Ed¬ 
ward  I.,  as  a  security  against  the  insurections  of  the  lYelsh.  Soon  after  its 
e*rec'tion  the  royal  founder  was  besieged  in  it,  and  the  garrison  almost  re¬ 
duced  by  famine  to  a  surrender,  from  which  they  were  extricated  by  the 
arrival  of  a  fleet  with  provision.  In  l642  it  was  garrisoned  in  behalf  of 
the  king,  by  Dr.  John  Williams,  archbishop  of  York,  and  in  l64o  he 
gave  the  government  of  the  castle  to  his  nephew  Wm.  Hookes.  Two 
years  after.  Prince  Rupert  superseded  the  archbishop  in  the  command  of 


CONWY. 


211 


N.  Wales.  He  endeavoured  to  gain  some  redress  from  the  king,  but  he  failed. 
Enraged  at  this  injury_,  he  joined  Mytton^  and  assisted  in  the  reduction  of 
Conwy.  The  town  was  taken  by  storm,  Aug.  1 5.,  l646,  but  the  castle  did 
not  surrender  till  the  10th  of  November.  The  superiority  of  this  fortress 
seemed  to  inspire  respect,  for,  while  the  parliamentarian  forces  dismantled 
other  castles,  they  laid  no  violent  hands  on  this,  but  when  a  grant  was  made 
of  it  by  King  Charles  to  the  Earl  of  Conwy  and  Kilulta,  he  had  scarcely  ob¬ 
tained  possession  ere  he  ordered  an  agent  to  remove  the  timber,  iron,  lead, 
and  other  valuable  materials.  It  is  now  the  property  of  the  Marquess  of 
Hertford,  who,  according  to  the  will  of  the  late  Earl  of  Conwy,  added  that 
name  to  that  of  Seymour,  from  the  crown,  at  an  annual  rent  of  6s.  8d. 
and  a  dish  of  fish  to  Lord  Holland  as  often  as  he  passes  through  the 
town.  Thus  unroofed  and  unprotected,  it  suffered  such  material  injuries 
from  the  agencies  of  wind  and  weather,  as  to  be  reduced  to  a  state  of  rapid 
decay.  The  heap  of  rubbish  remaining  in  the  river  opposite  the  castle 
constituted  a  round  tower,  terminating  a  curtain- rampart,  which  extended 
from  the  angle  of  the  town-wall.  One  similar,  running  out  from  the  other 
end,  has  long  been  destroyed.  The  uses  of  these  were  to  prevent  an  enemy 
from  approaching  by  water.  A  tower  on  the  s.  side  has  been  rent 
asunder  by  some  of  the  inhabitants  quarrying  the  foundation  for  slates. 
Part  is  standing,  and  part  hanging  in  an  oblique  direction  upon  the  sur- 
basing  rock,  forming  a  singular  instance  of  a  dilacerated  building.  It  is 
supposed  that  this  fortress  was  constructed  by  the  same  architect  who  built 
Caernarvon  castle.  A  more  beautiful  fabric  perhaps  never  arose  ;  certainly 
its  equal  is  not  to  be  found  within  the  precincts  of  Britain.  The  form  is 
nearly  a  parallelogram,  extending  along  the  verge  of  a  precipitous  rock, 
washed  on  two  sides  by  a  fork  of  the  river,  the  other  sides  front  the  town  ; 
the  walls  were  of  great  thickness,  flanked  by  eight  vast  circular  embattled 
towers,  each  having  a  slender  machiolated  one  issuing  from  the  top.  These 
were  ascended  by  spiral  staircases,  and  served  the  purpose  of  watch-tur¬ 
rets.  This  fortress  had  two  principal  ways  of  ingress,  both  admirably 
contrived  for  security.  One  was  formed  by  a  narrow  flight  of  steps  from 
the  river,  through  a  small  advanced  postern.  The  grand  entrance  was  at 
the  N.w.  end,  by  a  drawbridge,  over  a  deep  and  wide  foss.  The  com¬ 
mon  entrance  is  at  the  s.  e.  side,  near  the  e.  end,  by  a  steep  and  winding 
path.  The  interior  consists  of  two  courts  bounded  by  the  different  apart¬ 
ments.  Few  of  these  are  distinguishable,  except  the  state-hall,  the  length 
of  which  is  130  ft.,  the  breadth  32,  and  the  height  20.  Its  roof  was 
supported  by  8  arches,  4  of  which  only  remain.  It  contained  two  spacious 
fireplaces,  and  was  lighted  by  six  narrow  windows  towards  the  river,  and 
three  larger  next  the  court.  Underneath  were  extensive  vaults  for  arms, 
ammunition,  magazines,  and  stores.  Two  towers  opposite  the  principal 
gateway,  one  called  the  king’s,  the  other  the  queen’s,  contain  two  or  three 
rooms  each,  and  in  the  latter  an  opening  or  niche  taken  out  of  the  wall,  had 
a  groined  roof,  formed  by  ribs  into  six  compartments.  In  these  were  seats, 
and  light  was  admitted  through  three  lancet-shaped  windows.  It  was 
called  the  Oriel  or  Queen  Eleanor’s  toilet-room.  The  town  was  sur¬ 
rounded  by  high  massive  walls,  from  12  to  15  ft.  thick,  strengthened  at 
intervals  by  24  circular  and  semicircular  towers.  These,  with  one 
exception,  and  the  four  principal  gateways,  remain  in  tolerable  preserv¬ 
ation.  Most  of  the  space  within  the  walls  is  occupied  by  gardens, 
orchards,  &c. 

There  are  scarcely  any  remains  of  the  Cistercian  Abbey,  founded  by 
Llywelyn  ap  Jorwertli,  in  1185,  who  endowed  it  with  lands  to  a  consider- 

p  2 


212 


CONWY. 


able  extent.  The  politic  Edward^  however^  would  not  trust  this  spiritual 
institution  within  the  walls.  He  removed  the  religious  to  another  esta¬ 
blishment  of  his  own  at  Maenan,  on  the  Denbighshire  side  of  the  river_, 
and  made  the  conventual  church  parochial. 

The  living  is  a  discharged  vicarage  in  the  archdeaconry  and  diocese  of 
Bangor,  patron  Sir  D.  Erskine,  Bart.  The  church,  dedicated  to  St. 
Mary,  is  a  spacious  building,  containing  a  few  modern  monuments  be¬ 
longing  to  the  family  of  the  Wynnes,  formerly  of  this  place  ;  and  one 
rudely  sculptured  commemorates  the  mother  of  Archbishop  Williams,  who 
succeeded  to  the  custody  of  the  great  seals  on  the  decease  of  the  great 
Lord  Bacon.  On  a  flat  stone  in  the  nave  of  the  church  is  the  following 
inscription  :  —  Here  lyeth  the  body  of  Nicholas  Hookes,  of  Conwy, 
gent.,  who  was  the  41st  child  of  his  father  William  Hookes,  Esq.,  by 
Alice,  his  wife,  and  father  of  27  children  ;  he  died  on  the  20th  day  of 
March,  l673.”  The  Font  appears  ancient;  it  is  composed  of  black 
marble  curiously  carved,  and  supported  by  a  kind  of  clustered  pilasters, 
standing  on  a  pedestal. 

In  Castle-street  is  a  very  old  structure,  having  a  singular  window,  with 
several  coats  of  arms  of  the  Stanley  family,  called  the  College,  and  inhabited 
at  present  by  a  few  poor  families.  It  was  probably  a  school  endowed  out 
of  the  abbey  lands.  Near  the  market  place  is  a  very  large  antique 
building  called  Plds-mawr,  erected  in  1585,  by  Robert  Wynne,  Esq.  of 
Gwydir.  Over  the  gateway  are  inscribed  the  Greek  words  Are^ov,  aire^ov 
(bear,  forbear).  The  letters  J.  H.  S.  X.  P.  S.  in  front  of  the  building, 
seem  to  indicate  that  it  was  a  house  erected  for  charitable  purposes.  The 
initials  may  be  read,  Jesus  hominum  salvator,  Christian!  populi  salus.” 
The  apartments  are  rudely  ornamented  with  uncouth  figures  in  stucco, 
interspersed  with  numerous  coats  of  arms.  This  house  is  now  the  property 
of  the  H  on.  Lloyd  Mostyn,  which  he  inherits  through  the  Wynnes  of 
Bodysgallan.  The  common  entrance  is  at  the  s,  e.  side,  near  the  e,  end, 
by  a  steep  and  winding  path. 

By  a  charter  of  Edward  I.,  Conwy  was  made  a  free  borough,  and  the 
mayor  was  also  constable  of  the  castle.  This  little  town  is  governed  by  an 
alderman,  recorder,  coroner,  water  bailiff,  and  two  serjeants  at  mace 
elected  annually.  The  petty  sessions  are  held  at  Llanrwst,  to  which  a 
new  road  has  been  projected.  The  population  in  1821,  amounted  to 
1105;  in  1831,  to  1245.  There  are  no  manufactures  in  Conwy. 
Nothing  would  tend  more  to  the  health  of  this  town  than  a  removal  of 
the  old  archway  leading  to  the  quay.  The  Port  is  a  dry  harbour, 
frequented  by  a  few  small  coasting  vessels,  but  the  trade  is  very  incon¬ 
siderable.  An  extensive  Quay,  lately  much  improved  by  the  corporation, 
ranges  upon  the  e.  side  of  the  town  wall.  The  o'lver  Conwy  rises  out 
of  Llyn  Conivy  at  the  s.  extremity  of  the  county,  in  the  mountains  of 
Penmachno.  At  the  castle  it  is  about  i  m.  across  ;  and  in  the  middle  of 
the  channel  opposite,  is  a  small  island  covered  with  underwood.  A  little 
higher  up  the  river  makes  a  fine  bend  round  a  projecting  point,  shaded 
by  a  venerable  wood. 

This  river,  during  the  Roman  period,  was  famed  as  a  pearl  fishery ; 
the  species  of  muscle,  called  by  Linnaeus,  Myamargaratifera,  which  pro¬ 
duced  them,  is  still  found  in  the  sandy  bed  of  the  river.  About  forty 
persons  are  yet  employed  in  this  fishery,  which  yields  about  l60  oz.  per 
week  of  pearls  equal  to  any  found  in  Britain,  and  sold  at  2s.  6d.  per  oz. 

Mr.  Holland  judiciously  planted  and  laid  out  in  walks,  a  little  hill  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Conwy,  called  Arcadia.  This  spot  commands  an  exten- 


CONWY. 


213 


sive  and  delightful  prospect  up  and  down  the  river,  the  ocean,  Anglesea, 
&c.,  whence  also  may  be  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  town  and  castle. 
The  umbrageous  woods  and  lofty  hills  which  skirt  the  Conwy  on  each 
side,  are  enlivened  by  vessels  continually  passing  up  and  down  from 
Trefriw,  and  the  diminutive  coracles  employed  in  the  capture  of  salmon 
and  smelts.  This  valley  affords  the  most  variegated  assemblage  of  beauty 
in  the  power  of  the  pencil  to  delineate.  Mr.  Burke,  that  fine  delineator  of 
the  sublime  and  beautiful,  has  conferred  his  warmest  eulogiums  on  this 
vicinity. 

The  poor  in  this  neighbourhood  are  employed  in  gathering  the  different 
species  of  fuci,  commonly  called  sea-wreck,  thrown  up  by  the  tide,  or 
growing  upon  the  breakers.  This  they  deposit  in  a  kind  of  square  fire¬ 
place,  made  upon  the  sand,  and  heat  it  till  it  becomes  liquid  and  forms 
a  cake  ;  when  further  baked  or  burnt,  it  resembles  cinders,  and  is  called 
barilla,  or  impure  fossil  alkali ;  in  this  state  it  is  sold  to  manufacturers  of 
soap  and  glass.  The  ashes  of  all  plants  growing  at  a  distance  from  salt 
water  afford  the  vegetable  alkali  or  potash  ;  while  such  as  grow  near  the 
sea,  or  upon  the  borders  of  salt  lakes,  afford  the  fossil  alkali  or  soda. 

A  coach  runs  in  summer  from  Conwy  to  Bettws-y-Coed,  whence  con¬ 
veyance  may  be  had  to  the  waterfalls  in  that  neighbourhood. 

The  Ferry  is  of  importance,  as  lying  upon  one  of  the  great  roads  from 
London  to  Ireland,  but  is  justly  considered  as  a  hazardous  passage,  and 
many  are  the  accidents  which  have  occurred.  The  spring  tides  rise  about 
twelve  feet ;  at  these  times  the  river  is  i  m.  across,  at  low  water  not 
above  fifty  yards.  Owing  to  sand-banks,  the  fluctuations  are  considerable.  On 
Christmas  day,  1806,  the  boat  conveying  the  Irish  mail-coach  upset,  with 
fourteen  persons,  including  the  coachman  and  guard,  who  were  drowned  ex¬ 
cept  two.  This  accident  did  not  happen,  it  is  said,  from  the  roughness  of  the 
water,  or  the  rapidity  of  the  current,  but  from  the  boat  being  overloaded, 
so  as  not  to  rise  with  the  waves,  which  were  running  uncommonly  high. 
Many  shameful  impositions  were  practised  here  upon  such  passengers  as 
appeared  to  be  strangers.  By  these  circumstances,  government  were  probably 
induced  to  commence  the  construction  of  a  chain-bridge  over  the  Conwy, 
on  April  3.,  1822,  which  stupenduous  undertaking  was  completed  in  July, 
1826,  under  the  direction  of  the  late  Mr.  Telford. 

“  The  chains  are  fastened,  on  the  e.  side  of  the  river,  in  a  solid  rock, 
which,  before  the  construction  of  the  bridge,  was  insulated ;  and  on  the 
side,  after  passing  under  the  walls  of  the  Castle  to  a  distance  of  54  ft.,  are 
securely  bolted  into  the  rock  on  which  that  fortress  is  built.  From  the 
eastern  extremity  an  embankment,  671  yards  in  length,  and  30  ft.  in 
breadth  at  the  top,  has  been  raised  on  the  sands,  between  the  island  and 
the  shore,  and  from  the  western  extremity  a  road  has  been  cut  through  the 
solid  rock,  under  the  n.  e.  side  of  the  Castle,  to  the  distance  of  175  yards. 

On  this  road,  a  very  handsome  lodge  of  two  towers,  corresponding  in 
design  with  the  venerable  remains  of  the  Castle,  has  been  erected,  forming 
an  elegant  arched  entrance  from  the  town  to  the  bridge,  through  a  pair  of 
massive  iron  gates  of  noble  appearance  ;  and  on  the  rock,  on  the  eastern 
side,  a  very  pretty  lodge  has  been  built  for  the  bridge  surveyor,  the  stone 
for  the  whole  having  been  procured  from  the  neighbouring  quarries.  The 
length  of  the  bridge,  between  the  centre  of  the  supporting  towers,  is  327  ft*? 
its  height  above  high  water  mark,  18  ft.,  and  the  height  of  the  pillars, 
over  which  the  chains  pass,  42  ft.  from  the  platform.  The  principal 
chains  from  which  the  roadway  is  suspended  are  8  in  number,  and  are 
formed  of  links,  each  consisting  of  5  bars  of  iron,  3f  inches  wide,  and 

p  3 


214 


CONWY. 


]  inch  thick.  Connected  with  the  suspension  bridge^  a  very  important  im¬ 
provement  has  been  effected  in  the  road  leading  from  the  town  through 
the  N.w.  wall;,  where  a  noble  gatew'ay  has  been  erected,,  and  proceed¬ 
ing  round  the  immense  mountain  of  Penmaen-bach^  along  the  northern 
precipitous  declivity  of  which  it  is  carried  by  an  excavation  in  the  solid 
rockj  in  some  places  80  feet  high^  and  extending  more  than  a  mile  in 
length.  The  new  line  of  road  is  more  than  41  miles  in  length,,  from  Con¬ 
wy  to  Bryn  Mor^,  where  it  joins  the  old  road,  by  which  the  precipitous 
descent  of  Sychnant  is  avoided.  A  new  line  of  road  has  also  been  projected, 
to  dhe  north-w'^est  of  the  Castle,  from  this  town  to  Llanrwst,  and  a  bridge 
has  been  built  over  the  river  Gyffin.”  (^Lewis.') 

From  the  Ferry  Bridge  Mr.  Bingley  made  an  Excursion  round  the 
Creiddin,  a  commot  or  hundred  of  Caernarvonshire,  situate  upon  the  side 
of  the  river  opposite  to  Conwy,  and  forming  a  considerable  promontory  into 
the  Irish  sea.  Proceeding  along  the  shore  for  2  m.,  the  first  object  of 
attraction  is  Diganwy,  Gannoc,  or  Dinas  Gonwy,  the  fort  on  the  Conwy, 
called  by  the  common  people  Y  Faer  dre,”  once  a  famous  city,  but  being 
destroyed  by  lightning  in  31 6,  it  was  never  rebuilt.  A  tradition  yet 
remains  that  Conwy  rose  out  of  its  ruins.  Camden  has  supposed  this  the 
dictum  of  the  Itinerary,  called  so  from  having  been  a  station  for  part  of 
the  Nervii  Dictenses  in  the  Roman  army.  Many  battles  are  said  to  have  been 
fought  here  between  the  Britons  and  Saxons  ;  and  about  the  year  1720,  a 
number  of  brass  belts  were  found  under  a  great  stone.  At  present,  the 
only  remains  of  this  ancient  place  are  upon  two  hills  near  the  shore  of 
the  Conwy ;  the  space  between  was  crossed  by  the  walls  running  up  the 
sides.  On  the  summit  of  one  are  the  vestiges  of  a  circular  tower,  and 
some  foundations  of  walls  are  scattered  on  its  accessible  parts.  In  1088, 
Robert  Radland  was  here  overpowered  by  the  Welsh,  and  slain  ;  soon  after 
Llywelyn’ap  GryfFydd  destroyed  the  castle,  but  it  was  again  rebuilt  in  1210 
by  Randolph,  Earl  of  Chester.  King  John  lay  encamped  under  its  walls 
in  1211,  but  was  afterwards  reduced  to  great  distress  by  Prince  Llywelyn  ; 
Henry  III.  shared  the  same  hard  fortune.  The  castle  was  finally  destroyed 
by  Llyw'elyn  ap  Gryffydd.  Near  this  place,  on  a  low  hiU,  are  the  re¬ 
mains  of  an  ancient  round  tower,  about  20  ft.  high,  and  only  12  in.  dia¬ 
meter  within. 

One  m.  below,  upon  the  n.  side  of  the  river,  is  Treganwy,  or  Diganwy, 
a  house  belonging  to  Mrs.  Williams,  anciently  a  stronghold  commanding 
one  of  the  passes  among  the  Welsh  mountains.  Cross  the  fiat,  and  under  the 
s.  w.  side  of  Llandudno  rock,  pass  the  shell  of  a  large  mansion,  which  some 
centuries  ago  w'as  a  palace  belonging  to  the  Bishops  of  Bangor ;  thence 
along  steep  and  slippery  sides  of  the  elevated  down  of  Llandudno,  for 
about  2  m.,  to  the  end  of  the  promontory.  Here  the  rocks  are  mostly 
perpendicular,  of  amazing  height,  called  Great  Ormeshead,  but  a  boat  is  re¬ 
quired  to  examine  them  minutely,  which  cannot  be  procured  upon  the  spot. 

About  a  mile  from  the  n.e.  side  of  the  promontory  are  Llandudno 
Church,  and  a  copper  mine  at  Eglwys  Rhos,  celebrated  as  the  refuge  of 
Maelgwyn  Gwynedd,  who  superstitiously  fled  hither  to  avoid  the  yellow 
fever,  which  raged  over  great  part  of  Europe,  where  he  died.  [See  Llan¬ 
dudno.] 

In  returning,  visit  Gloddaeth,  a  seat  of  Lady  Mostyn  Champneys,  built 
by  her  ancestor  Sir  Roger  Mostyn,  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  The 
walks  of  Gloddaeth  may  justly  vie  with  anything  similar  in  the  three 
kingdoms :  those  on  the  declivity  are  directed  by  the  flexure  of  the  hill, 
those  on  the  plain  are  straight,  diverging  from  a  centre,  in  which  is  placed 


CONWY. 


216 


a  statue  of  Minerva.  The  house  is  famed  for  its  library  of  ancient  manu¬ 
scripts,  chiefly  Welsh.  Following  a  serpentine  walk  through  the  woods,  at 
the  distance  of  1  m.  is  Bodysgallen,  another  seat  of  the  same  family.  It  is 
a  place  of  great  antiquity ;  the  situation  is  commanding,  and  finely  shaded 
by  venerable  woods.  The  hundred  of  Creuddyn  is  well  wooded,  especially 
about  Marl,  Bodysgallan,  and  Gloddaeth. 

Excursion.  —  Quitting  Conwy,  pass  through  a  wood  opposite  the  castle 
to  Penarth,  occupied  by  Lady  Clarges.  Hence  enter  the  public  road  to 
Llanrwst.  Caer  Rhun  (the  Fort  of  Rhun)  lies  at  the  distance  of  5  m.  on  the 
Llanwrst  road,  and  is  so  called  by  the  W elsh,  but  by  Camden  Caer-hen,  the 
Conovium  of  the  Romans.  This  ancient  town  was  situated  upon  a  flat  part 
of  the  margin  of  the  river.  The  bricks,  urns,  pottery-ware,  lamps,  vases,  and 
other  Roman  antiquities  which  have  been  found,  have  induced  the  historic 
investigator  to  fix  here  the  station  of  the  Itinerary,  19  ui.  distant  from.Varis, 
and  24  from  Segontium.  Pottery-ware  of  the  most  curious  kinds  were  dis¬ 
covered  :  also  a  circular  brazen  shield,  about  a  foot  in  diameter,  having  upon 
its  face  concentric  embossed  rings,  with  numerous  studs  and  pins,  and,  in 
the  centre,  a  piece  of  wrought  iron  5  in.  long.  The  inside  stuffed  with 
hair,  and  covered  with  leather.  The  late  Rev.  H.  D.  Griffiths,  upon  whose 
grounds  these  remains  were  situated,  made  strict  search  for  a  bath  and 
hypocaust,  said  to  have  been  discovered  here,  but  without  success.  In  a 
platform,  situated  upon  a  small  mount,  which  formed  a  parallelogram  150 
yards  in  length,  and  1 00  in  breadth,  the  foundations  of  numerous  apart¬ 
ments  were  discovered.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  interest  of  this  situation ; 
the  soft-flowing  Conwy,  the  sublime  cliff  called  Craig  Siberi;  the  middle 
distance  a  bold  headland,  and  the  frowning  rocks  of  Craig  Wyllt  receding 
towards  Llanrwst,  complete  an  indescribable  scene. 

From  Caer-Rhun,  the  wilds  of  Craig  Wyllt,  might  be  conveniently 
visited.  Ascend  this  craig  with  a  guide,  and  reach  a  wooden  bridge  called 
Pont  y  Cammau,  or  the  Bridge  of  the  Leaps.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
excessively  rough.  The  woods  and  rocks,  with  a  cottage  suspended  in 
mid-air,  finish  this  picture.  The  cascade  at  Craig  Wyllt  is  exceedingly 
fine.  Returning  by  another  path,  pass  a  great  number  of  cottages,  very 
singular  in  form  and  situation.  There  is  a  rocking-stone,  which  the  guide 
will  point  out  and  move  in  its  socket.  Near  Caer-Rhun  is  an  overshot 
wheel,  of  which  Mr.  Pugh  has  given  a  print. 

From  Caer-Rhun  some  travellers  go  to  Aber  across  the  hills.  Passing 
6  m.,  see  two  upright  stones  called  Y-Ddeu-faen,  from  which  the  Bwlch 
takes  its  name.  A  large  carnedd  is  near  one  of  the  pillars,  in  which  an 
empty  chest  was  found.  Pass  on  the  r.  the  mountain  Penmaenmawr. 
Upon  its  summit  are  the  ruins  of  an  irregular  British  fortification,  of  great 
strength,  standing  upon  an  elevation  above  the  sea  of  515  yards.  Hence 
is  a  fine  view  of  the  sea  and  Anglesea.  Come  in  sight  of  a  rock  called 
Maes-y-Gaer,  which  resembles  a  mighty  fortress.  From  this  place  descend 
into  the  picturesque  vale  of  Aber. 

The  route  and  scenery  from  Caer-Rhun  to  Conwy,  and  thence  to  the 
sea-shore,  under  the  huge  Penmaen  to  Aber,  is  decidedly  preferable. 

The  vale  of  Conwy  teems  with  interesting  objects.  Upon  the  w.  the  ab¬ 
rupt  termination  of  the  Snowdonian  range,  down  the  declivities  of  which, 
through  innumerable  chasms,  fissures,  and  gulleys,  rush  the  superfluous 
waters  of  the  lakes  above,  to  mingle  with  the  parent  ocean.  The  scenery 
about  Pont  Dolgarrog,  and  Pont  Porth  Llwyd,  which  are  thrown  across  the 
streams  issuing  from  Llyn  Cowlid  and  Llyn  Geirionnydd  ;  each  in  passing 
the  rocky  barrier  forms  a  considerable  fall ;  but  the  latter  is  by  far  the  most 

p  4 


216 


CONWY. 


grand.  It  is  called  Rhaiadyr  Mawr,  Ascending  along  a  winding  pathj  it 
shortly  conducted  Mr.  Bingley  to  the  bed  of  the  river,  near  the  station 
whence  it  is  seen  to  the  greatest  advantage.  The  stream  runs  from  a  pool 
among  the  mountains  above,  called  Llyn  Eigiau.  From  the  upper  part  two 
streams,  one  of  them  much  the  broadest,  descend,  at  some  distance  from 
each  other.  The  range  of  rock  down  which  the  water  is  precipitated  is  very 
wide  and  extremely  rude,  being  formed  in  horizontal  ledges,  into  deep  clefts 
and  enormous  chasms.  Upon  the  r.  of  the  cataract  the  inclosing  rocks  are 
nearly  perpendicular,  very  lofty,  and  crowned  with  pendant  foliage.  Those 
upon  the  1.  are  very  high  and  towering,  adorned  with  grass  and  ferns.  This 
cataract  is  grand  and  picturesque.  A  wonderful  story  is  related  of  this 
British  poet,  who  appears  to  have  been  consigned  to  the  bulrushes  like 
Moses  of  old.  Elphin,  a  son  of  Gwyddno  Goronhir,  while  fishing  one  day, 
saw  a  child  floating  upon  the  water  concealed  in  a  leathern  bag.  The  young 
prince  compassionated  the  little  urchin,  and  took  charge  of  him  till  he  was 
grown  up.  The  eleve  gratefully  addressed  his  deliverer  in  an  ode  called 
‘‘ Dyhuddiart  Elphin’' 

The  Peninsula  of  Gogarth  furnishes  a  delicious  treat  to  the  botanist. 
In  the  vicinity  of  Gloddaeth,  Mr.  Evans  found  Cistus  marifolius,  Thalic- 
trum  minus,  Arenaria  verna.  Polypodium  cambricum,  Veronica  montana, 
Veronica  spicata,  Potentilla  verna,  Lysimachia  thyrsiflora.  Near  the  Ormes- 
head,  Salicornia  herbacea,  Cistus  Helianthemum,  Origanum  vulgare,  Anthy  1- 
lis  Vulneraria,  Chlora  perfoliata.  On  the  sands,  Eryngium  maritimum, 
Crithmum  maritimum,  Arundo  arenaria,  Scilla  verna,  Elymus  arenarius, 
Glaucium  phoeniceum,  and  Rosa  spinosissima.  On  the  shore  is  the  beautiful 
Pulmonaria  maritima.  Besides  12,  which  are  included  in  the  foregoing  list, 
Mr.  Bingley  found  the  following  uncommon  plants,  in  the  course  of  his 
excursion  round  the  Creiddian;  viz.  Cotyledon  Umbilicus,  Salvia  Verbenaca, 
Anethum  Foeniculum,  Orobanche  minor,  Sedum  Telephium,  S.  anglicum. 
Spiraea  Filipendula,  Convolvulus  Soldanella,  Silene  maritima,  Arenaria  pep- 
loides,  Glaux  maritima,  Glaucium  luteum,  Erodium  maritimum,  Cochlearia 
officinalis,  Brassica  oleracea.  Sisymbrium  monense,  Crithmum  maritimum, 
Pyrus  Aria,  Ligustrum  vulgare,  Cichorium  intybus,  Juniperus  commhnis, 
Rubus  saxatilis,  Plantago  maritima,  P.  Coronopus,  Geranium  columbinum, 
Borago  officinalis  ;  in  hedges  at  Gloddaeth,  Rubia  peregrina,  Silene  nutans, 
Scrophularia  vernalis.  Geranium  sanguineum.  Polypodium  vulgare  ;  upon 
the  summit  of  the  rock  at  Llandudno,  Borago  officinalis  ;  in  salt  marshes 
near  Conwy,  Glaux  maritima  ;  upon  the  churchyard  walls,  Saxifraga  tri¬ 
dactylites  ;  in  two  or  three  places  among  the  ruins  of  the  castle,  Orobanche 
minor ;  in  meadows  on  the  banks  of  the  Conwy,  about  7  m.  above  Llan- 
rwst,  Orobus  sylvaticus  ;  near  Gyffin-mill,  distant  ^  m.,  Lathyrus  latifo- 
lius. 

On  the  great  road  to  Bangor  a  retrospect  through  the  gate  affords  a  sur¬ 
prising  view  of  ruins.  To  meet  the  Irish  road,  we  are  conducted  above  a 
mile  from  the  town  between  walls  clumsily  formed  of  a  beautiful  marble. 
Two  or  three  miles  from  Conwy  the  first  grand  view  of  Penmaenmawr  opens  ; 
an  immense  rocky  mountain  of  heavy  lumpish  form,  rising  to  an  elevation  of 
1540  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  road  appears  at  a  distance,  winding 
round  the  lower  region  of  this  eminence, like  a  narrow  shelf;  but  on  approach¬ 
ing  we  find  it  a  noble  ten  ace,  defended  by  two  good  parapet  walls;  one  secur¬ 
ing  it  below,  and  the  other  from  the  falling  rocks  above.  Upon  the  shore, 
near  the  beach,  grow  the  Chenopodium  maritimum,  Erodium  maritimum, 
and  at  a  short  distance  Lathyrus  sylvestris,  and  L.  Napellus.  Sychnant, 
the  dry  hollow,  commences  2  m.  from  Conwy ;  from  the  bottom  arises 


CONWY. 


217 

Paenmaen-hach  on  the  r.  At  is  Pont  Sychnant,  where  the  road  is 

supported  upon  precipices.  Betwixt  this  place  and  Tyn-y~wern  lies  Dwy-^ 
with  its  church_,  near  the  shore.  On  the  1.  of  the  road  is  Trwyn^ 
yr-wylfa^  and  \  m.  further,  on  the  same  side,  a  little  removed,  is  Carey  llwydj 
and  at  a  short  distance  further  Ty  Mawr,  H.  L.  Jones,  Esq.  The  country 
here  grows  wilder,  and  the  heights  appear  tremendous.  From  all  these  we 
see,  at  a  distance,  different  parts  of  the  sea- coast ;  Anglesea,  Priest- 
holme,  and  little  Ormeshead.  The  valleys  and  recesses  among  the  moun¬ 
tains  are  beautiful.  Pass  on  the  side  of  the  stupendous  Penmaenmawr  to 
Penmaen,  6^  m.  from  Conwy.  When  the  tide  is  out  there  is  a  way  hence  over 
the  Lavan  sands  to  the  ferry  across  the  strait  of  the  Menai.  1  m.  f^urther  pass, 
on  the  1.,  Llanfair  Fechan,  and  on  the  r.  Bryn-y-neuadd.  To  Abeb,  2  m., 
leaving,  on  the  r.,  by  the  way,  Llwynysgolog,  and  Pant-drws-y-beudy. 
Llandegai,  3  m.  On  the  way  from  Aber,  pass,  at  about  m.  from  each, 
Crymlyn,  Tany^'allt,  Ty  Gwynn  on  the  1.,  and  Croeshon  on  the  r.,  -where 
is  a  road,  on  the  same  side,  to  St.  Ann’s  Chapel,  near  Ogwen  Bank,  and 
oppositely  to  Maes  y-groes.  Midway  from  Llandegai  to  Bangor  is  PenrJiyn 
Cattle,  the  elegant  residence  of  George  Hay  Dawkins  Pennant,  Esq.,  who 
succeeded  to  this  princely  heritage  through  the  late  Lord  Penrhyn;  and 
beyond  Lime  G7'ove,  the  seat  of  Benj.  Wyatt,  Esq.,  and  Port  Penrhyn. 
Bangor,  1  m.  7  fur.  On  this  road  a  truly  mountainous  and  romantic  country 
is  presented,  the  hills  of  Flintshire  and  Denbighshire  bearing  no  comparison 
in  respect  to  picturesque  beauty  with  the  rocky  scenes  of  Caernarvonshire. 
The  latter,  far  from  being  gentle  in  ascent,  and  covered  with  turf,  wear  a 
savage  and  majestic  aspect;  they  partake  largely  of  the  precipitous,  rugged, 
and  gloomy. 

The  turnpike-road  to  Llanrwst  lies  on  the  same  side  of  the  Conwy,  as 
before  described,  through  a  luxuriant  vale,  bounded  on  one  side  by  mode¬ 
rately  rising  hills,  and  on  the  other  by  the  eastern  termination  of  the  Snow- 
donian  chain ;  a  lofty  barrier,  sometimes  clothed  with  wood,  and  sometimes 
exhibiting  horrid  precipices,  with  now  and  then  a  gaping  chasm,  whence 
dash  impetuous  waters.  After  quitting  Conwy,  pass  Cyffin,^m.  1  m. 
further  Boddido,  on  the  r.  Croes-y-Nydd,  l  m.  Yryannws,  on  the  r.,  m. 
Tan-y-Bryn,  on  the  1.,  m.  Bryn-uthyn,  on  the  1.,  ^  m.  Tyn-y-Groes, 
4  m.  Cefn  Penbrynlleeh,  4™.  Caei'-Rhun,  4  ua.  (see  p.  214.).  Pont-rhyd- 
y-Durig,  \  m.  Garthmylog,  1  (On  the  r.,  Llanbedr-y-Cennyn.) 

Tal-y-Bont,  \  m.  (On  the  r.  E  fynnon  bed’r,  and  further  to  the  r.  Ty- 
ddin-y-Coed.')  Tyddyn-y-Felin,  4  ua.  Pont  porth  Llwydd,  4  The 
scenery  here  becomes  highly  interesting.  The  irregularity  of  the  mountains, 
continually  changing  their  faces  from  barren  crag  and  fissured  rock  to 
verdant  down  and  wooded  hill,  the  opposite  ones  rising  in  gentle  slopes 
from  the  meads,  furnishes  a  constant  variety  to  the  admiring  eye.  This 
bridge  crosses  a  stream  issuing  from  Fynnon  Llyffant  and  Llyn  Geirionnydd, 
not  far  distant  from  Carnedd  Llywelyn  (see  p.  157.).  Pont  Dolgarrog,  1  m. 
The  bridges  of  Pont  PortJilwynd  and  Pont  Dolgarrog  are  neat  stone  struc¬ 
tures  over  their  respective  streams,  issuing  from  Llyn  Geirionnydd  and  Llyn 
Cwlid.  These,  rushing  over  the  barrier,  form  two  immense  falls ;  the 
former  nearly  surrounded  by  woods,  and  its  perpendicular  descent  upwards 
of  180  ft.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  see  the  Abbey,  Lord  Newbo- 
rough’s,  charmingly  sheltered  by  trees  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  but  suffici¬ 
ently  elevated  above  the  Conwy.  A  little  farther,  upon  rising  ground,  stands 
the  neat  and  picturesque  villa  belonging  to  Lady  Cuffin.  The  lake  of 
Geirionnydd  is  famed  as  having  been  the  residence  of  Taliesin,  the  prince  of 
British  poets,  upon  its  banks.  Voed  Gwydir  and  Bi'yn-y-Pil,  I4  m. 


218 


CONWY. 


Storehouse,  ni.  Trefriw,  |  m.  (Here  cross  a  brook  falling  from  the 
joint  waters  of  Llyn  Crafnant  Llyn-tal-y-Uyn,  which  lie  s.  about  2  m.) 
Near  the  village  of  Trefriw  the  river  makes  a  sudden  bend  ;  the  tide  seldom 
reaches  farther,  and  the  depth  of  water  only  admits  of  vessels  of  burden  to 
this  place.  At  this  village  Llywelyn  had  a  palace  ;  it  is  also  remarkable  for 
a  mineral  well  containing  common  salt.  From  its  vicinity  to  the  woods  of 
Gwydir,  a  number  of  small  vessels  are  built,  and  sent  down  to  Conwy  at 
the  equinoctial  tides.  Gwydir  is  the  property  of  Lord  Willoughby  d’Eresby, 
who  possesses  it  in  right  of  his  lady.  In  this  tract  are  some  extensive  thriv¬ 
ing  plantations  of  firs  and  larches,  amid  the  naked  rocks  which  form  the 
acclivity  on  the  right.  This  estate  comprises  31,000  acres.  Of  these  2000 
consist  of  plantations,  and  500  in  lakes,  which  are  12  in  number.  It  con¬ 
tains  abundance  of  lead  ore,  zinc,  and  pyrites,  all  wrought,  besides  4  exten¬ 
sive  slate  quarries  in  active  operation.  Small  boats  and  numerous  coracles 
are  seen  both  above  and  below  Llanrwst  bridge,  occupied  chiefly  in  fishing. 
Pass  Gwydir,  nearly  2  m.,  and  enter  Llanrwst. 

To  Abergele,  Mr.  Ay  ton  crossed  the  river  and  continued  along  its  e. 
shore  towards  Great  Ormeshead.  Passing  Diganwy  Castle,  he  soon  entered 
upon  the  flat  isthmus  which  connects  the  lofty  peninsula  of  Llandudno 
with  the  main  land.  The  vast  promontory  which  bounds  this  track,  is  a 
disconnected  mountain  projecting  into  the  sea.  Upon  its  e,  side  is  the  little 
village  of  Llandudno,  rude  and  romantic,  lying  at  the  foot  of  a  precipitous 
hill,  roughened  with  hugh  masses  of  grey  rock  and  spar,  sprinkled  with 
coppice  wood.  Proceeding  by  the  shore  along  the  s.  side  of  the  promontory, 
reach  the  ruins  of  a  monastery  called  Gogarth.  It  stands  close  to  the 
shore,  and  some  parts  of  it  have  been  washed  down  by  the  sea.  The  s.  side 
of  the  peninsula  consists  of  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  the  only  remnant  left 
according  to  tradition,  of  a  great  plain  w^hich  once  filled  up  the  space 
between  this  promontory  and  the  islet  of  Priestholme.  This  tract  is  ex¬ 
tremely  fertile,  forming  a  fine  contrast  to  the  rude  front  of  a  precipice 
which  rises  above  it  to  the  height  of  400  ft.  The  whole  mountain  consists 
of  limestone,  which  upon  the  s.  face  breaks  out  in  long  lines  of  rock  like 
walls.  There  is  a  difficult  path  to  the  summit  from  this  side  cut  in 
traverses.  The  views  from  the  eminence  are  inexpressibly  fine.  To  the  s. 
are  the  windings  of  the  Conwy,  and  in  the  distance  the  summits  of  moun¬ 
tains  ;  to  the  w.  the  bay  of  Beaumaris,  and  the  indented  coast  of  Anglesea  ; 
to  the  N.  the  boundless  expanse  of  the  ocean.  At  the  extreme  point  of  the 
promontory  the  rock  appears  to  have  been  violently  rent  asunder.  In  front 
of  the  chasm  is  a  declivity  sloping  towards  the  ocean ;  on  each  side  of 
which  is  a  tremendous  precipice,  advancing  to  the  sea,  in  vast  steps  of 
crag.  Upon  the  face  of  the  steep  bank  which  intersects  these  immense 
masses,  a  zigzag  path  leads  to  a  cavern  in  the  rock,  furnished  with  a  table 
and  seats  of  white  marble  for  the  accommodation  of  tea-parties. 

In  the  breeding  season  these  cliffs  are  the  haunt  of  myriads  of  sea  birds, 
principally  guillemots,  and  razor-bills,  which  depart  in  August.  Along  the 
N.  coast  is  Llandudno.  Upon  a  hill  called  Dinas  at  the  e.  end  of  this 
promontory  is  a  stone  called  Cryd-Tudno,  or  St.  Tudno’s  Cradle,  once  famous 
as  a  rocking-stone,  but  some  bungling  curioso,  has  altered  its  position,  and 
rendered  it  nearly  immoveable.  Descending  into  the  plain,  we  may  con¬ 
tinue  our  excursion  across  the  pretty  bay  of  Llandudno,  bounded  at  its  e. 
point  by  the  Little  Ormeshead.  Rounding  this  point  an  expanded 
prospect  opens.  After  passing  a  few  m.  we  arrive  at  the  foot  of  a  long 
hill,  which,  jutting  into  the  sea,  forms  the  promontory  of  Fenmaen  Rhos. 
A  few  miles  further  reach  Abergele. 


CORWEN. 


219 


It  is  proposed  to  convert  the  beautiful  bay  in  North  Wales,  formed  by 
the  Great  and  Little  Ormesheads,  into  a  safe  and  commodious  harbour,  by 
erecting  a  pier  on  the  outer  or  n.w.  side,  so  as  to  afford  to  packets  and 
other  vessels  of  the  largest  class  immediate  access,  and  a  secure  retreat  under 
every  circumstance  of  tide  and  weather ;  for  which  it  is  admirably  adapted 
by  its  great  depth,  there  being  not  less  than  from  three  to  six  fathoms  at 
low  water  spring  tides,  accessible  without  hazard  from  rocks,  shoals,  or  any 
other  impediment  or  danger.  The  situation  is  almost  exactly  opposite  to 
Dubhn  ;  and  its  vicinity  to  the  mining  and  manufacturing  districts  of  North 
Wales,  points  it  out  as  the  most  proper  site;  while  the  level  of  the  country 
seems  by  nature  to  form  a  line  of  railway,  which  is  intended  to  be  carried 
along  the  coast  of  Denbighshire,  by  Rhyl  and  Mostyn.  The  banks  of  the 
river  Dee,  Holywell,  Bagillt,  and  Flint ;  thence  to  join  the  Chester  and 
Crewe  railway,  making  in  the  whole  only  441  m.  of  railroad. 


To  Llanrwst,  12  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Warner, 
Abergele,  lli  miles.  Wyndham;  Pennant. 
Penmaenmawr,  6  miles.  Bingley  j  Gilpin. 
Llandudno,  6  miles  Aihin. 

Llanddulas,  9  miles.  Pennant. 

Aber,  9miles.  Skrine  ;  Hutton;  Pugh. 


To  St.  Asaph,  18  miles.  Hutton. 

Llandudno,  after  visiting  various  parts  of  Go- 
garth,  back  to  Conwy,  thence  to  Llanrwst. 
Evans. 

Bangor,  14i  miles.  Warner’s  2d  walk. 


CORWEN. 


From  Llangollen,  10  miles.  Bingley ;  Wynd¬ 
ham  ;  Hutton. 

Denbigh,  20  miles.  Aikin. 


Cerig-y-Drudian,  11  miles.  Evans  ;  Hut¬ 
ton  ;  Warner. 

Bala,  12  miles.  Skrine. 

Ruthin,  12  miles.  Pennant. 


CORWEN,  the  White  Choir,*'  in  the  hundred  of  Edeirnion,  county 
of  Merioneth,  is  a  small  neat  market-town,  situated  under  a  rock  at  the  foot 
of  the  Berwyn  mountains,  on  the  s.  bank  of  the  Dee.  The  Church  is  dedi¬ 
cated  to  its  primitive  founder  Mael,  and  Sulien  or  Silin,  a  son  of  Hywel  ab 
Emyr  Llydaw.  It  is  a  neat  cruciform  building,  stationed  under  a  vast 
rocky  cliff,  which  forms  the  abrupt  termination  of  the  Ferwyn.  It  contains 
an  ancient  monument  to  the  memory  of  Jorwerth  Sulien,  one  of  the  vicars, 
representing  in  relief  a  human  figure,  in  priestly  robes.  In  the  churchyard 
is  a  very  ancient  ornamented  stone  pillar ;  also  an  almshouse,  founded,*  in 
1709^  by  William  Eyton,  of  Plas  Warren,  Shropshire,  for  six  widows  of 
clergymen  of  the  Church  of  England,  who  died  possessed  of  the  cure  of 
souls  in  the  county.  It  is  now  occupied  by  two  only.  This  place  is  much 
resorted  to,  during  the  season,  by  anglers,  who  will  find  good  sport  between 
Corwen  and  Llansanffraid  bridges,  S  m.,  and  Llandrillo,  5  m.  ;  the  river 
abounds  with  trout,  grayling,  and  salmon.  The  population,  chiefly  em¬ 
ployed  in  agriculture,  amounts  to  1950.  On  the  other  side  the  stream, 
opposite  the  town,  is  Caer  Drewyn,  a  circle  of  loose  stones  upon  the  summit 
of  a  steep  hill,  about  ^  a  m.  in  circumference,  with  the  remains  of  circular 
habitations  within.  Owain  Gwynedd  is  supposed  by  Lyttelton  to  have  occu¬ 
pied  this  post,  whence  he  checked  the  invasion  of  Henry  II.,  who  encamped 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  vale,  in  11 65.  It  was  afterwards  a  retreat  of 
the  celebrated  Owain  Glyndwr.  This  post  may  be  discerned  from  the  church¬ 
yard,  in  the  direction  of  the  village  of  Cwmwyd.  Drewyn  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  vales  of  Glyn-Dwrdwy  and  Edeirnion ;  the  former  is  cele¬ 
brated  as  the  frequent  retreat  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  whose  memory  is  still 
revered  in  this  neighbourhood,  which  formed  the  scene  of  his  exploits  and 
hospitality.  [See  Llangollen.]  The  whole  circle  of  this  rude  fortress  is 
visible  at  the  distance  of  2  m.  from  the  town,  on  the  Llanrwst  road. 


220 


COllWEN. 


Corwen  contains  a  good  Inn,  adorned  with  the  gigantic  features  of  Ovvain 
Glyndwr,  the  renowned  and  formidable  opponent  of  Henry  II.  Glyndwr  is 
said  to  have  attended  divine  service  at  Corwen  church,  where  a  doorway  is 
shown,  now  made  up,  through  which  he  entered  a  pew  in  the  chancel. 
Upon  the  Berwyn  mountain,  behind  the  church,  is  Glyndwr  s  Seat. 
Hence,  superstition  says,  he  threw  a  dagger  which  fell  on  a  stone,  and  left  an 
impression  of  its  entire  length,  half  an  inch  deep.  This  stone  forms  a  part 
of  the  doorway  just  mentioned.  From  that  chieftain’s  seat  among  the 
rocks  is  a  most  charming  prospect,  in  which  the  rich  and  delightful  vale  of 
Corwen  expands  to  view,  with  the  Dee  in  the  centre.  Here  Glyndwr  might 
view  his  territory,  to  the  extent  of  nearly  40  square  miles.  The  Berwyn 
mountains  form  the  e.  boundary  of  the  beautiful  vale  of  Edeirnion.  Their 
highest  tops  are  Cadair  Fronwen  and  Cadair  Ferwyn.  Upon  the  first  is  a 
vast  pile  of  stones,  brought  from  some  distant  part,  and  in  the  middle  is  an 
erect  pillar.  Tradition  says  that  under  these  summits  runs  an  artificial 
road,  called  Fordd-Helen,  said  to  have  been  cut  by  Helena,  daughter  of 
Eridda,  or  Octavia,  wife  to  the  Emperor  Maximus.  The  rocks  about 
Corw^en  abound  with  the  Lichen  proboscieus,  and  Rubus  chamaemorus,  called 
Mwyar-Berwyn,  or  knotberries.  - 

While  Mr.  Hutton  was  at  Corwen  he  paid  a  visit  to  Rhug,  once  the  seat 
of  Colonel  Vaughan  of  Corwen,  distant  3  m.  Here  he  saw  a  dagger,  knife, 
and  fork,  all  in  one  sheath,  but  each  had  a  distinct  compartment,  richly 
ornamented  with  silver  ;  this  Glyndwr  usually  bore  about  his  person.  The 
knife  and  fork  are  rather  slender.  The  dagger  is  about  17  in.  long,  12  of 
which  constitute  the  blade,  which  tapers  to  a  point.  At  the  end  of  the 
handle  are  his  arms,  consisting  of  a  lion  rampant  and  three  fleurs-de-lis, 
curiously  engraven.  The  principal  part  of  the  handle  is  inlaid  with  black 
and  yellow  wood,  banded  with  silver ;  the  shield  at  the  top  of  the  blade  is 
a  solid  piece  of  the  same  metal,  curiously  wrought,  not  much  larger  in  cir¬ 
cumference  than  a  crown-piece.  The  knife  and  fork  must  necessarily  be 
sheathed  first,  which  the  shield  covers,  consequently,  the  dagger  must  be 
drawn  first. 

To  Bala  there  are  two  good  lines  of  road,  one  by  the  Druid,  12  m.  The 
other  is  excellent,  and  passes  the  church  of  Llangar,  Rev.  J.  Dawson  ; 
further  on  the  1.  is  Caer-Bont,  a  small  circular  entrenchment,  consisting  of 
a  foss  and  rampart,  with  two  entrances.  Upon  a  hill  above  this  place,  called 
Y-Foel,  is  a  circular  coronet  of  rude  conglomerate  stones,  having  an  entrance 
to  the  E. ;  within  was  a  circular  cell.  At  the  distance  of  100  yards  are  the 
remains  of  a  great  Carnedd,  surrounded  by  stones. 

The  village  of  Cynwyd,  2g  m.  (the  source  of  mischief),  is  situated  upon 
the  E.  side  of  the  vale  of  Edeirnion,  at  the  mouth  of  a  beautiful  dingle, 
which  extends  |  m,  into  the  bosom  of  the  Berwyn  Mountain.  On  the  1., 
about  g  m.  up  a  dell,  appears  Rhaiadyr-Cynwyd,  3  m.  Around  this  cataract 
is  much  picturesque  beauty,  the  water  of  the  river  Trystian,  the  Impe¬ 
tuous,”  rushing  in  a  furious  torrent  from  the  rocks  above,  dashes  with  a 
tremendous  roar  to  the  rugged  bottom,  along  which  it  rages  till  it  joins  the 
Dee,  above  Cynwyd.  The  mill  is  called  MeUn-uchau  Cynwyd.  The  groves 
of  ash  and  other  trees,  which  surround  it,  render  the  scene  very  interesting. 
A  mile  from  Llandrillo,  Mr.  Pennant  crossed  the  Dee  aXPont-Gilan,  a  bridge 
of  two  arches,  over  a  deep  and  black  water,  4^  m.  Beyond  this  spot,” 
says  he,  the  valley  acquires  new  beauties,  especially  on  the  r.  It  here 
contracts ;  the  road  running  at  the  foot  of  a  brow  of  stupendous  height, 
covered  with  venerable  oaks.  The  scenery  of  this  spot  requires  the  pencil 
of  a  Salvator  Rosa.”  Passing  Llandrillo  (the  church  of  St.  Trillo),  at  the 


CORWEN. 


221 


distance  of  about  3  m.,  Mr.  Bingley  crossed  the  Dee  to  Llandderfel,  another 
small  village.  The  church  once  contained  a  vast  wooden  effigy  of  Derfel 
Gadarn,  its  patron  saint^  whose  festival  occurs  on  the  5th  of  April.  The 
Welsh  had  a  prophecy  that  this  image  should  set  a  whole  forest  on  fire. 
On  the  condemnation  of  Dr.  Forest,  in  1538^  it  was  placed  under  him  as 
fuel^  when  burnt  at  Smithfield^  at  the  time  of  the  Reformation. 

At  Pale  occurs  the  residence  of  the  Rev.  John  Lloyd.  Near  this  gen¬ 
tleman’s  house  is  a  Druidic  temple  in  a  very  perfect  state.  It  is  situated  in 
a  wood  surrounded  by  fine  oaks.  Formerly  a  woman  took  up  her  abode 
under  this  altar,  who  thence  made  predatory  visits  to  her  neighbours  in  the 
night  to  procure  food  for  her  daily  sustenance.  She  lived  there  many  years 
undisturbed. 

In  a  field  adjoining  the  wood,  is  a  stone  chest,  placed  about  1|  ft.  be¬ 
low  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  side  stones  are  about  two  yards  in 
length,  and  the  heads  nearly  one.  At  some  distance  from  Llandderfel 
Bridge,  the  valley  almost  closes  ;  and  at  Calettwr  it  finishes  with  anobly- 
wooded  eminence,  above  which  soars  the  vast  mass  of  Arrenig  mountains. 
In  sandy  places  on  this  road  grows  the  Scleranthus  perennis.  Mr.  Pennant 
advises  the  traveller,  who  does  not  choose  to  pursue  this  route  to  follow  the 
course  of  the  Dee  from  Bangor  Iscoed,  through  the  delightful  tract  it 
waters,  to  Llangollen,  thence  to  Glyndwrdwy  to  Corwen,  and  through  the 
matchless  vale  of  Edeirnion  to  this  spot.  Within  1  m.  of  Bala,  on  the  1. 
lies  Rhiwedog,  “  the  Bloody  Brow,”  famed  for  a  battle  between  Llywarch 
Hen  and  the  Saxons  ;  in  this  conflict  he  lost  Cynddelw,  the  last  of  his  241 
sons.  Not  far  distant  is  Pahell-Llywarcli-Hen,  “  the  Tent  of  the  Monarch,” 
probably  the  house  where  that  chieftain  spent  the  latter  part  of  his  days. 
Others  say,  that  having  lost  his  patrimonial  possessions,  by  opposing  the  en¬ 
croachments  of  the^Saxons,  he  retired  to  a  hut  at  Dolgiog,  near  Machynlleth, 
to  soothe  with  the  dulcet  modulations  of  his  harp  the  remembrance  of  his 
past  misfortunes.  The  house  and  estate  of  Rhiwedog  is  possessed  by  a 
descendant  of  the  Llwyds,  who  very  anciently  were  its  inheritors. 

To  Llangollen,  most  travellers  pass  hence  directly  w.  to  the  fall  of  the 
Ceirw  at  Pont-y~Glyn.  The  river  winds  softly  and  quietly  along  a  moun¬ 
tain  valley,  till  arriving  at  this  abrupt  and  craggy  descent,  the  waters  are 
poured  down  under  a  single-arched  bridge,  in  a  volume  which  becomes  in¬ 
stantly  convulsed.  This  cataract  is  not  very  lofty,  but  being  directly  under 
the  bridge  where  the  foam  dashes  among  dark  opposing  rocks,  with  pen¬ 
dant  foliage  on  each  side,  a  scene  is  formed  altogether  flnely  picturesque 
and  elegant.  The  bridge  rests  upon  two  perpendicular  rocks,  50  or  60  feet 
above  the  bed  of  the  stream.  The  view  thence  down  the  hollow  is  grand 
and  tremendous.  Under  the  arch  grows  the  Fumaria  claviculata. 

Keep  by  the  river  side  through  beautiful  meadow  grounds  by  the  old 
house  of  Maesmor,  and  reach  Rug  (pron.  Reeg),  the  site  of  an  old  family 
mansion  which  has  been  erased.  At  a  short  distance  occurs  a  very  hand¬ 
some  structure,  with  a  portico  of  four  Ionic  columns,  the  elegant  residence 
of  G.  H.  Vaughan,  Esq.  In  1807j,  he  succeeded  his  brother,  Lieut.-Col. 
E.  W.  Vaughan,  who  had  assumed  the  name  of  Salusbury.  Among  the 
antiquities  preserved  in  this  mansion  are  the  dagger  and  drinking  cup  of  Bro- 
gyntyn,  also  a  cup  of  Owain  Glyndwr.  Owain  Brogyntyn,  a  chieftain  of  the 
12th  century,  once  inherited  this  spot.  He  was  lord  of  Dinm  ael  and  Edeirnion, 
from  whom  is  descended  the  present  proprietor,  who  does  honour  to  his  an¬ 
cestry,  by  realising  in  genuine  Welsh  style  their  national  hospitality.  Pass 
the  neat  chapel  on  the  demesne  annexed  to  the  rectory  of  Corwen,  and 
follow  a  by-road  to  Llansanffraid.  From  Tyn-y~Caerau,  above  Rhaggat, 


222 


CORWEN. 


in  this  parish_,  is  a  fine  view,  extending  over  the  fertile  vale  of  Edeirnion, 
through  which  the  Dee,  in  its  numerous  windings,  appears  and  disappears, 
amidst  hanging  woods  and  plantations,  and  assumes  the  appearance  of  small 
lakes  scattered  through  the  vale  in  which  the  town  of  Corwen  and  the 
Berwyn  range  of  mountains  are  seen  to  peculiar  advantage.  The  calcareous 
rocks  which  seem  to  support  the  vast  sides  of  Berwyn,  now  assume  great 
boldness  of  character.  This  richly- wooded  valley  winds  and  shifts  its 
course,  as  the  great  headlands  protrude,  forming  incomparably  fine  pictures. 
The  vale  of  Llangollen,  was  formerly  called  Glyn  Dwrdwy.  It  is  distin¬ 
guished  in  the  British  annals  by  the  feats  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  who  made  a 
most  conspicuous  figure  as  a  soldier  and  defender  of  his  country.  His  house, 
which  his  bard  lolo  Goch  compares  in  magnificence  to  Westminster  Abbey, 
was  situated  at  Sychnant,  near  this  village.  It  was  encircled  by  a  moat  and 
surrounded  by  every  appendage  that  could  administer  to  hospitality,  a  park, 
warren,  orchard,  vineyard,  fishpond,  &c.  &c.  Owain  died  September  20th, 
1415,  aged  6l,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  buried  at  Monnington,  but  no 
monument  perpetuates  this  event.  Leave  Glyndwry  Park,  Capt.  Salusbury, 
on  the  r. 

Proceeding,  the  mountains  put  on  a  bolder  aspect,  and  the  valley  with  its 
river,  assumes  a  more  varied  shape.  The  road  sometimes  leads  to  the 
acclivity  of  a  mountain,  and  again  drops  into  the  lengthened  vale ;  while  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  consists  of  moderately-wooded  hills  clothed  in  all 
the  luxuriance  of  forest  foliage,  and  interspersed  with  villas  and  cottages. 
Descending  into  a  rich  bottom  surrounded  by  woods,  where  a  crystal 
stream  issues  from  a  fissured  rock  into  a  natural  basin  below  ;  hence  the 
boundary  to  the  1.  opens  in  the  small  but  beautiful  m/e  o/  Egwest,  throng 
which  a  rapid  stream  from  the  mountains  of  Yale  flows  into  the  Dee.  The 
variety  of  the  scenery  increases  in  the  approach  to  Llangollen. 

Catch  a  distant  view  of  Castell  Bran  on  the  summit  of  a  high  conic  hill. 
An  eminence  rises  in  the  middle  of  the  vale  which  forces  the  Dee  to  the  left, 
while  the  road  takes  a  winding  direction  up  an  opening  between  its  base  and 
the  ridge  of  hills  which  accompany  the  traveller  on  the  r.  In  an  open¬ 
ing  towards  the  Dee  appear  the  embowered  ruins  of  Vale  Crucis.  The 
Dee  again  meets  the  road,  and  its  bank  below  becomes  lofty.  Llandysilio 
Hall,  and  its  environs  on  the  1.  of  Crucis  Abbey,  possess  almost  unrivalled 
beauty  of  situation. 

To  Ruthin  the  road  is  excellent,  commencing  with  a  gradual  ascent  of 
2  m.  and  then  is  discovered  a  grand  view  of  Bala  Lake,  finely  backed  by 
the  Arran  and  more  distant  Cader  Idris.  Glynn  Bridge  lies  1  ra.  to  the 
1.  an  object  well  worthy  of  so  short  a  deviation. 

The  road  to  FESTiNioois  over  a  dreary  waste  of  18  m.  through  10  of 
which  there  are  but  two  solitary  houses.  {Hutton.')  Arran  fawr  lies  on  the 
cross  road  from  Bala  to  Beddgelart,  a  district  exceedingly  wild. 

The  road  to  Cernioge  Mawb,  13  m.,  has  been  generally  improved ;  but 
the  iriost  important  variations  have  been  two,  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
Gairw,  including  the  romantic  pass  of  Glendyfws  ;  one  at  Cerig-y-Drudion, 
and  other  smaller  improvements  between  that  place  and  Cernioge. 

Angling  Stations.  — Llandrillo,  5  m. ;  salmon,  trout  and  grayling. 
Llansanffraid-Glyn-Dyfrdwy,  3  m.  Salmon,  trout,  grayling,  perch, 
jack,  &c. 


To  Pont-y-Glyn,  6  miles. 

I  Bala,  12  miles.  Bingley;  Wyndham  ;  Pen¬ 
nant. 

Llangollen,  10  m.  Aikin  ;  Evans  ;  Warner. 
Cerig-y-Drudian,  11  miles.  Hutton. 


To  Vale-Crucis  Abbey,  11  miles.  Skrine. 
Ruthin,  12  miles. 

Llanrwst,  24  miles.  . 

Rhuabon,  14  miles.  Pugh. 


223 


COWBRIDGE. 


From  St.  Donats,  6  miles.  Barker.  From  Ivlandaff,  10  miles.  Donovan  ;  Wynd- 

Commencement  of  Mr.  Malkin’s  Tour.  ham  ;  Skrine. 

Cardiff',  12^  miles.  Warner. 

COWBRIDGE^  or  Pont-vaen,  is  a  neat  borough  and  market-town  in 
Glamorganshire,  divided  by  the  river  Ddaw,  which  at  a  short  distance, 
falls  into  the  sea  at  Aberthaw.  In  the  year  IO9I:,  it  was  encompassed  with 
a  stone  wall,  by  Robert  St.  Quentin,  who  afterwards  built  the  castle  at 
Llanblethian.  One  of  the  gates  remaining  in  good  condition,  is  a  bold 
Gothic  structure.  The  JF'ree  Grammar  School  was  partly  endowed  by  Sir 
Leoline  Jenkins,  judge  of  the  admiralty,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  It 
is  well  supported,  and  in  considerable  repute,  possessing  two  fellowships, 
two  scholarships,  and  an  exhibition  to  Jesus  College,  Oxford.  It  is  at 
present  under  the  government  of  the  Rev.  William  Williams,  D.D.,  pre¬ 
bendary  of  LlandafF.  The  Chapel  is  so  singularly  constructed,  that  it 
appears  at  a  distance  like  the  embattled  turret  of  an  old  fortress.  It  con¬ 
tains  several  handsome  monuments.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  Bap¬ 
tists,  and  Calvinistic  and  Wesleyan  Methodists.  The  town-hall  contains  jury- 
rooms  and  other  apartments.  Cowbridge  is  contributary,  with  Cardiff  and 
Llantrisaint,  in  the  return  of  a  member.  The  very  rapid  increase  of  Cym- 
reigyddion  societies  in  the  Principality  must  be  hailed  by  every  lover  of 
literature  with  feelings  of  pleasure.  Among  other  anniversaries,  that  of 

Cadair  Morganwg  at  this  town  is  announced  under  the  patronage  of 
W.  Williams,  Esq.,  of  Aberpergwm.  Every  Cymro  ”  in  Pontyfor  will 
doubtless  be  happy  on  these  anniversaries  of  ancient  bardism.  An  academy 
is  conducted  near  Cowbridge  by  Taliesin,  son  of  Edward  Williams,  whose 
bardic  appellation  was  lolo  Morganwg,  Ywain  I9j  or  Owain,  son  of 
Cyllin,  held  his  court  here.  A  large  tumulus,  and  the  remains  of  a  Druidic 
temple,  in  a  field  near  the  church,  are  the  only  relics  of  its  ancient 
importance.  The  streets  are  broad  and  paved,  with  a  good  market  well 
supplied  with  provisions. 

Along  the  hills  which  recede  to  the  s.  w.  beyond  the  town,  the  great 
military  road,  carried  through  the  county  of  Glamorgan,  may  be  readily 
traced,  stretching  in  a  broad  straight  line. 

The  following  Excursion  was  made  by  Mr.  Malkin. 

At  a  short  distance  to  the  n.  e.  of  Cowbridge,  is  Aherthin^  a  rural  and 
retired  spot,  highly  ornamented  by  some  remarkably  neat,  white  cottages, 
with  small  gardens.  'VYithin  half  a  mile  hence  on  the  farm  of  Captain 
Howell  is  an  elm-tree  ;  it  measures  in  circumference  28  feet.  It  is  hollow, 
and  capable  of  containing  36  full-grown  persons.  The  entrance  is  similar 
to  an  ancient  Gothic  doorway.  The  situation,  particularly  that  of  Mr. 
Llywelyn’s  house,  is  agreeable  without  being  striking.  In  this  village  are 
several  specimens  of  the  genuine  Welsh  pigsty,  which  as  well  as  the  pigeon- 
house  is  ornamental.  From  the  top  of  an  elevated  common  just  beyond 
Welsh  St.  Donat’s,  look  down  on  the  village  of  Peterston  on  the  r.  Before 
you  lies  Hensol  Castle,  the  estate  of  Richard  Hall,  Esq.,  purchased  from 
Lord  Talbot,  whose  family  were  the  ancient  Welsh  possessors  of  Hensol. 
The  late  Lord  Talbot,  son  of  the  Lord  Chancellor,  added  two  wings, 
with  the  dowers,  between  1730  and  1740.  It  was  the  eldest  son  of  the 
Lord  Chancellor,  whom  Thomson  accompanied  in  his  travels,  and  whose 


224 


COWBRIDGE. 


death  he  laments  in  the  introductory  lines  to  his  Liberty.”  A  sheet  of 
artificial  water  here  measures  25  acres. 

Ystrad-Owen^  at  the  distance  of  2  m.^  is  remarkable  on  account  of  the 
battle  fought  between  Conan  ap  Sitsylt,  and  the  Saxons  ;  and  still  more 
for  the  meeting  of  the  Welsh  hards,  under  the  immemorial  patronage  of  the 
Hensol  family^  at  whose  expense  they  were  annually  entertained,  with  every 
indication  of  native  hospitality,  on  the  28th  of  May.  The  last  assemblage 
took  place  in  1720  ;  and,  in  consequence  of  the  death  of  Richard  Jenkins, 
Esq.,  the  last  of  the  family,  it  was  discontinued.  The  house  where  the  bards 
were  entertained  is  still  standing. 

On  the  road  to  Llantrisaint  is  Ash  Hall,  W.  Wood,  Esq.  Mr.  Malkin 
thought  this  one  of  the  most  desirable  places  in  the  country,  on  a  small  and 
unaffected  scale.  Viewed  from  a  distance,”  says  he,  “  it  holds  out  no 
inducement  for  the  traveller  to  deviate  from  his  path  ;  but  when  arrived 
there,  he  is  surprised  to  find  that,  from  an  eminence,  gentle  and  apparently 
inconsiderable,  he  commands  the  whole  of  the  rich  and  fertile  flat  between 
the  spot  he  stands  on,  and  the  British  Channel,  the  view  of  which,  on  a 
bright  day,  with  the  Somersetshire  and  Devonshire  hills  beyond,  is  singularly 
beautiful ;  the  situation  itself  is  skirted  by  a  woody  shelter,  and  emboldened 
by  a  range  of  hills  bounding  the  prospect  on  the  n.  Leaving  Ash  Hall  on 
the  L,  and  keeping  the  boundaries  of  Hensol  on  the  r.,  enter  on  a  road  which 
leads  from  the  track  of  English  conversation  and  polished  inhabitants.  But 
nature,  growing  wilder,  as  she  becomes  more  retired,  amply  recompenses  the 
picturesque  traveller  for  the  loss.  The  landscape  becomes  bolder  and  more 
woody;  thehills  are  nearer,  their  magnitude  more  imposing ;  and  the  situation 
of  Llantrisaint  which  enlivens  with  white  buildings  the  lofty  pass  between 
two  craggy  peaks,  imparts  no  common  interest  to  his  progress  towards  the 
mountains.  On  gaining  the  churchyard,  a  magnificent  view,  in  which 
Castell  Penlline,  Earl  of  Clarendon,  forms  a  striking  feature.  The  town 
of  Llantrisaint  is  very  limited  and  irregular.  The  Church  is  a  large 
Norman  edifice,  from  which  the  place  derives  its  name,  being,  with  the 
chapels  Llantwit-fardre,  and  Istrad  Dyfod^vg,  respectively  dedicated  to 
the  three  Welsh  saints  Illtyd,  Tyfodwg,  and  Gwynno.  Of  the  castle  little 
remains  besides  the  fragment  of  a  circular  tower  ;  but  that  little  is  worth 
visiting,  for  the  sake  of  the  situation  and  view.  The  parish  of  Llantrisaint 
gave  birth  to  Sir  Leoline  Jenkins.  Passing  the  cleft  on  which  the  town 
stands,  the  change  in  the  face  of  nature  is  very  striking  ;  the  contrast  of 
character  between  a  mountain  valley,  and  that  just  left,  rarely  impresses 
itself  more  strongly.  From  this  eminence,  Castella  House,  Thomas  Smith, 
Esq.,  is  seen  to  much  advantage.  Myrtles  here  flourish  in  the  open  air  all 
the  year.  At  the  bottom  of  a  long  descent,  the  road  on  the  r.  leads  to 
Efail-isaf,  and  across  the  TiW  to  Caerphilly  Castle;  but  the  road  to  Pont- 
y-Prydd,  or  the  New  Bridge,  conducts  you  up  a  hill,  higher  than  that  just 
descended.  For  3  m.  the  road  is  very  dreary  and  irregular.  The  change 
on  reaching  the  brow  of  a  very  steep  ascent,  1  m.  in  length,  is  instanta¬ 
neous  and  delightful.  The  confluence  of  the  TafF  and  Ronddu  Vawr,  the 
amphitheatre  of  hills,  the  stupendous  bridge,  the  luxuriance  of  hanging 
woods,  projecting  masses  of  rock,  all  may  be  seen  at  once.  The  effect  of 
the  bridge  is  much  more  sensibly  felt,  if  first  examined  from  this  eminence, 
than  if  the  approach  were  from  the  Cardiff  road ;  and  the  vale  of  TafF  is 
seen  to  more  advantage,  by  taking  the  turnpike-road  from  Pont-y-Prydd, 
than  by  coming  up  from  either  of  those  places.  The  road  hence  to  the 
Bridgwater’s  Arms,  a  respectable  inn,  passes  along  the  river  side,  with 
which  a  curious  canal  runs  parallel.  Here  is  a  remarkable  instance  of  the 


COWBRIDGE. 


225 


triumph  of  art  over  natural  obstacles.  The  course  of  the  river  continues 
dark,  rocky,  interrupted,  and  romantic.  The  hills,  which  close  in  the  nar¬ 
row  vale,  are  lofty  and  precipitous,  but  clothed  with  an  almost  exhaustless 
magnificence  of  wood. 

At  Nant-garw,  where  the  road  turns  to  the  1.  for  Caerphilly  Castle,  the 
mountain  along  the  side  of  which  you  journey,  is  romantically  topped  by  a 
very  picturesque  castle  in  ruins.  This  is  a  most  characteristic  spot.  The 
castle  was  a  dependency  on  Cardiff,  and  a  species  of  outpost.  The  tin- 
works  at  Melin  Gryffydd,  4  m.  n.  of  Cardiff,  are  of  considerable  extent. 
Near  this  place,  the  road  towards  Llandaff  crosses  the  canal,  while  the 
Cardiff  route  lies  straight  forwards.  There  are  few  occurrences  more  grati¬ 
fying  to  the  mind,  than  the  contrast  of  scenery  higher  up  the  vale,  com¬ 
pared  with  that  at  Llandaff  bridge.  The  river,  from  a  rapid,  noisy,  shallow 
torrent,  becomes  gentle  and  glassy  like  a  lake. 

Returning  to  Cowbridge  along  the  high  road  from  Cardiff,  near  St. 
Nicholas,  a  road  to  the  1.  leads  by  a  cromlech  to  Dyffryn  House,  the  seat  of 
the  Hon.  Wm.  Booth  Gray.  About  half-way  between  St.  Nicholas  and 
Dyffryn  are  some  Ancient  Monuaients,  supposed  to  be  Druidic.  The 
most  remarkable  of  these  is  in  one  of  the  farms  belonging  to  Mr.  Gray.  It 
is  supported  by  5  large  stones  enclosed  entirely  on  the  e.  w.  and  n.  sides, 
but  open  to  the  s.,  forming  a  room  l6  ft.  long,  and  15  ft.  wide  ;  at  the  e. 
end  6*  ft.  high,  at  the  w.  end  4^  ft.  The  supporting  stone  to  the  n.  is 

16  ft.  long,  that  on  the  w.  end  9  ft*  long.  At  the  e.  extremity  are  three 
stones  set  closely  together.  The  length  of  the  horizontal  one  is  24  ft., 

17  ft-  in  its  widest  part,  and  from  2  ft.  to  2^  ft.  thick  ;  its  contents  324 
square  ft.,  being  nearly  thrice  as  large  as  that  of  the  cromlech  near 
Newport,  Pembrokeshire,  which  Sir  Richard  Hoare  supposed  to  be  the 
largest  in  Wales  or  England,  except  Stonehenge  and  Abury.  About  ^  rn. 
to  the  s.e.  of  Dyffryn  House  stands  a  cromlech  called  the  Greyhound- Bitch- 
Kennel,  a  name  occasioned  probably,  as  Mr.  Edward  MTlliams  has  conjec¬ 
tured,  from  the  first  Christians,  who  might  have  converted  these  Druidic 
places,  by  way  of  stigma,  into  dog-kennels.  The  second  conspicuous  re¬ 
main  near  Dyffryn,  bearing  the  same  name,  consists  of  4  large  stones,  one 
on  the  N.  another  on  the  s.  side,  each  10^  ft.  long,  by  7  ft.  high,  and 
nearly  2  ft.  thick.  At  the  w.  end  there  is  another  stone,  5  ft.  long.  These 
support  the  top,  which  measures  14  ft.  by  13  ft,,  and  13  ft.  wide  at  the 
E.  end,  the  mean  breadth  is  about  10  ft.  It  forms  a  kind  of  room  1 1  ft, 
long,  5  ft.  wide,  and  7  ft-  high.  It  was  formerly  occupied  as  a  stable  for 
one  horse.  There  are  some  remains  of  a  earn  on  three  of  the  sides,  which 
have  been  much  diminished  by  appropriating  them  to  the  erection  of  a 
cottage  hard  by.  There  are  other  fragments  within  short  distances,  encircled 
by  heaps  of  stones.  When  the  Christians  gained  the  ascendency,  the  smaller 
kinds  were  thrown  down,  and  the  large  ones  covered  with  stones,  in  imita¬ 
tion  of  the  ancient  British  mode  of  executing  criminals  when  they  fixed 
him  first  to  the  spot,  and  then  heaped  upon  him  a  pile  of  stones.  Those 
who  passed  also  threw  up  stones  ;  hence  the  expression  still  current  in 
W ales,  A  earn  murderer,”  and  the  imprecation,  may  a  heap  of  stones 
lie  over  thee.”  The  Druids  always  worshipped  in  the  open  air.  The  laws 
of  Howel  Dda  were  made,  and  the  courts  of  justice  also  held  under  the 
canopy  of  heaven.  On  regaining  the  turnpike,  the  first  object  of  attention 
is  Cotteril,  on  the  side  of  the  road  from  Cardiff  to  Cowbridge,  opposite  the 
5  m.  stone.  By  the  gate  which  enters  into  the  Park,  grows  a  very  magnifi¬ 
cent  Wych-elm,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  kingdom.  At  the  height  of  6  ft. 
its  girth  is  20  ft.  The  whole  premises  of  Cotteril  are  very  beautiful;  the 


226 


COWBRIDGE. 


park  abounds  with  picturesque  inequalities^  and  tlie  view  of  the  house  to¬ 
wards  the  hills  is  uncommonly  fine.  In  a  field_,  just  opposite_,  is  a  very 
large  stone,  10  or  12  ft.  high^  or  more  in  width.  SL  Geor^e'^  and  Peter~ 
ston  super  Elwy,  have  each  a  castle.  The  Elwy  affords  good  angling  in  the 
spring  only.  In  the  church  of  the  former  place  are  some  Gothic  monu¬ 
ments.  The  village  of  Bonvilston^  John  James  Bassett,  Esq.,  contains 
nothing  remarkable  except  a  well  wooded  view  of  the  flat,  and  some  orna¬ 
mented  cottages.  Llantryddid  Park,  in  ruins,  once  the  elegant  domain  of 
Sir  John  Aubrey,  Bart.,  the  descendant  of  an  ancient  family  who  resided 
here,  abounds  in  romantic  and  picturesque  spots.  The  house  is  said  to  have 
been  built  in  the  time  of  Henry  VI.  The  windows  are  uncommonly  large. 
One  is  12  ft.  square,  another  12  ft.  by  9  ft^  &c.  Sir  John  had  another 
estate  in  Buckinghamshire,  upon  which  he  chiefly  resided.  The  Church  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Illtyd,  Rev.  R.  T.  Tyler,  rector.  In  the  churchyard  is  a 
yew  tree,  in  perfect  health,  girth  18  ft.  6  in.  In  1803  it  was  large  and 
branching;  in  1806  it  was  stripped  of  its  venerable  arms,  and  left  a 
naked  trunk,  robbed  and  dishonoured.  From  Llantryddid  Park,  enter  upon 
a  down,  which  opens  a  fine  prospect.  The  town  of  Cowbridge  in  the 
bottom,  Llanhleiddian,  its  hill  and  church,  with  its  castle  beyond,  and  the 
boldly  situated  Castell  Penlline,  form  a  scene  of  much  grandeur.  On  the 
left  is  St.  Hilary’s  church,  in  which  is  a  recumbent  figure  of  Sir  R.  Bassett, 
Lord  of  St.  Hilary,  in  armour,  with  the  following  inscription  :  —  Hie  jacet 
Thomas  Bassett,  qui  obiit  17a  die  mensis  Decembris,  an.  dom.  m.cccc.xviii, 
Cuj  aie  ppietur  Deus.”  This  situation  almost  vies  with  Coedhyglan  in 
point  of  boldness,  and  is  the  admiration  of  all  travellers. 

The  principal  angling  stations  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cowbridge  are 
Llanhleiddian,  remarkable  for  the  size  of  its  trout  and  eels  ;  Llandough,  1  ^ 
m.  on  the  Ddaw,  which  here  winds  through  a  beautiful  little  valley,  richly 
wooded,  and  abounding  with  picturesque  scenery;  Llangaima,  3^  m.,  salmon, 
sewin,  trout,  and  eels;  St.  Mary  on  the  Hill,  4  m.;  Mishin,  5  m.,  good 
trout ;  Pendoylan,  5  m. 

Between  Cowbridge  and  Cardiff  occur  the  following  places  :  St. 
Marys  church,  the  road  to  which  is  through  the  most  attractive  and 
woody  part  of  Glamorganshire.  The  village  contains  nothing  remarkable, 
but  there  is  in  an  adjoining  field  a  Castle  which  challenges  the  admiration 
both  of  the  antiquary  and  the  architect.  It  was  formerly  the  residence  of 
Llywelyn  ap  Sitrylht,  his  brothers,  and  Gryffyth  his  son.  [See  a  history 
of  this  family  in  Mr.  Malkin’s  work,  vol.  i.  p.  189-^  with  various  conjec¬ 
tures  respecting  the  architecture  of  Old  Beau  Pres,  which  is  of  Norman 
etymology,  frequently  written  Bewper.]  The  fortress  and  estate  was  sold 
to  Sir  Philip  Bassett,  lord  of  St.  Hilary,  and  purchased  by  Mr.  Edmondes 
about  the  year  1758.  Over  the  entrance  are  the  arms  of  the  Bassett 
family  ;  the  porch  is  a  fine  and  very  ornamental  specimen  of  Greek  archi¬ 
tecture,  three  stories  high,  consisting  of  the  Doric,  Ionic,  and  Corinthian 
orders.  The  capitals  of  the  columns,  intaglios,  and  other  sculptures  are 
finished  in  a  very  masterly  manner.  In  the  intercolumniations  of  the  second, 
or  Ionic  story,  and  dado  of  the  pedestals,  are  three  tablets  inscribed  as 
follow  :  — 


Say  couldst  thou  e 
ver  fynde.  or  ever  hea 
re  or  see ;  a  worldly  wret 
che  or  coward  prove 


COWBRIDGE. 


227 


a  faythful  fryiide 
to  be.  Ricliarde 
Basset,  having  to  wyfe 
katherine,  daughter  to 


Sir  Thomas  Johns  knight 
bwylt  this  porche  with 
the  chymnye  tunnes  in  anno  1600. 
his  years  65.  his  wife  55. 


The  ornamental  parts  of  this  piece  of  extraordinary  architecture  were  exe¬ 
cuted  by  Richard  Twrch^  who^  with  his  brother  William^  wrought  at  the 
freestone  quarries  near  the  mouth  of  Ogmore  river  about  the  time  of  Ed¬ 
ward  VI.  and  Queen  Elizabeth.  Both  these  brothers  were  enamoured  of 
the  same  young  woman,  which  created  jealousies  ending  in  a  virulent  and 
inexplicable  quarrel.  The  object  of  their  affection,  having  learnt  the  nature 
of  the  conduct  of  these  suitors,  rejected  them  both.  This  decision 
affected  the  spirits  of  Richard  exceedingly.  He  quitted  the  country, 
travelled  for  thirty  years  in  Italy,  &c.,  and  returned  to  work  at  the  family 
quarry  in  Glamorganshire.  It  was  on  this  farm  and  in  this  house  that 
David  Edwards  the  bridge-builder  resided.  A  long  and  interesting  history 
of  this  castle,  with  many  ingenious  conjectures  respecting  the  beauty  of  its 
architecture,  &c.,  may  be  found  in  Mr.  Malkin’s  work,  vol.  i.  p.  181. 
where  he  asserts  that  the  porch  and  frontispiece  of  the  chapel,  with  the 
exception  of  one  infringement,  are  as  chaste  and  exact,  notwithstanding 
their  comparatively  small  scale,  as  the  most  splendid  of  Inigo’s  designs^ 
though  executed  before  his  time  by  a  native  of  Glamorganshire. 

Llancarfan,  was  the  birthplace  of  Caradoc  the  historian,  who  wrote  a 
history  of  Cambria,  from  the  abdication  of  Cadwalladr  to  his  own  time. 
Of  this  work  several  copies  were  preserved  in  the  abbeys  of  Conwy  and 
Ystradflur.  Caradoc  was  contemporary  with  Geoffry  of  Monmouth.  His 
Chronicle,  or  History  of  Wales,  was  translated  into  English  by  Humphry 
Llwyd,  and  published  with  additions  by  Dr.  David  Rowel,  in  4to,  l684; 

Wynne,  l697  ;  1704,  in  8vo  ;  and  afterwards  by  Sir  John  Price,  in 
1774.  Further  on  occurs  Flemingstone,  where  are  some  remains  of  a 
castle  adjoining  the  churchyard.  Anciently  it  was  styled  Llanmihangel-y- 
Twyn,  afterwards  Michaelson  Le  Pitt.  In  this  village  lived  Mr.  Edward 
Williams^  author  of  two  volumes  of  highly  meritorious  poems ;  a  man 
capable  of  doing  the  world  more  service  than  the  public  seemed  either 
willing  to  receive  or  return.  His  claims  to  distinction  were  founded  on 
his  knowledge  as  an  antiquarian,  profound  and  sagacious  in  every  thing 
curious  relating  to  the  customs,  manners,  and  history  of  his  native 
principality. 

The  village  of  St.  Athens  has  a  castle  called  East  Orchard,  built  in  the 
year  IO9I,  by  Roger  Berclos,  standing  on  the  edge  of  an  extensive  flat. 
A  luxuriant  wild  fig-tree  grows  out  of  the  cement  of  the  chapel  walls. 
Perhaps  the  Turkey  fig-tree  might  be  propagated  with  more  success  grafted 
upon  this  wildling,  which  probably  originated  in  the  cultivated  fig,  planted 
in  the  gardens  of  Norman  lords.  In  St.  Athen’s  church,  there  are  two 
uncommonly  fine  Gothic  monuments  of  the  Berclos.  In  this  parish  are 
remains  of  two  other  castles.  West  Orchard  and  Castleton. 

From  this  spot  there  is  a  good  view  of  Eonmon  Castle,  Robert  Oliver 
Jones,  Esq.  This  is  the  most  extensive  and  august  of  the  Welsh  inhabited 

Q  2 


228 


COWBRIDGE. 


fortresses.  The  kitchen  is  said  to  he  the  largest  in  the  kingdom.  Here  is  an 
excellent  portrait  of  Oliver  Cromwell.  Near  this  place  is  the  little  village 
of  Penmark. 

Mr.  Warner  from  Cowbridge  proceeded  to  St.  Qumtin’s  Castle,  at  the 
distance  of  a  mile  ;  thence  to  the  sequestered  village  of  Llayibleiddian  or 
St.  Quintin’sj  and  through  a  pleasing  country  to  Llantwit  Major,  distant 
from  Cowbridge  6  m.  [See  St.  Donat’s.]  Pursuing  his  route  to  the 
shore_,  he  visited  Boverton  Place,  a  spot  to  which  Camden  assigns  the  site 
of  an  ancient  station.  Mr.  Warner’s  leading  objects^  in  a  visit  to  the 
coast,  were  to  examine  a  natural  cavern  in  the  rock  called  Rennets  Cave, 
which,  when  the  tide  is  out,  may  he  entered  to  the  extent  of  sixty  yards ; 
and  to  inspect  the  curious  stratification  of  the  cliflP. 

To  Neath,  soon  after  passing  the  toll-bar  at  Cowbridge,  a  house  called 
MTllow-bush  lies  on  the  r.,  and  ^  m.  further,  a  road  to  Llanfrynach  is  on 
the  1.  At  the  2d  m.,  where  is  a  cross-road,  on  the  1.  is  Capel  Penlline,  a 
mile  to  the  1.  Lisworney  and  Nash,  Rev.  I.  Came.  Proceeding  i  a  m.  on 
the  1.  is  Pwll-y-wrach,  and  the  village  of  Colwinston.  Crack  House,  3  m. 
6  fur.  Pass  a  heathy  track  on  the  1.  called  the  Golden  Mile,  terminating  at 
the  4th  m.  from  Cowbridge,  where  is  a  farm-house  on  the  r.,  pass  Brocastle 
dxidi Langland  on  the  r.  at  the  termination  of  the  5th  m.  Corntown,  1  m.  5 fur. 
Ewenny  Castle  and  village  lie  a  little  to  the  r.  Cross  the  Ogmore  at  Ewenny 
Bridge,  1  m.  Oldcastle,  Bridgend,  and  Newcastle  lie  about  a  mile  distant  on 
the  r.  1  m.  further,  cross  the  Llyfni  at  New  Inn  Bridge,  1  m.  Merthyr- 
mawr,  the  elegant  modern  residence  of  the  Right  Hon.  Sir  John  Nicholl,  lies 
to  the  1.  on  the  banks  of  the  Ogwen,  and  |  a  m.  beyond  Cantleston,  un¬ 
occupied.  At  the  9th  m.  the  village  of  Laleston  lies  a  little  to  the  r., 
where  is  a  good  house  possessed  by  T.  Bennett,  Esq. ;  |  a  m.  further  leave 
on  the  1.  Tythegston  Court,  the  residence  of  Henry  Knight,  Esq.  Pyle 
Inn  and  village,  affording  to  the  traveller  excellent  accommodation,  5|  m. 
Leave  on  the  1.  Cenfig,  Higher  Cenfig,  Cenfig  House,  the  Roman  monu¬ 
ment,  Eglwys-nynydd,  reaching  a  house  called  Beggar’s  Bush,  upon  the 
skirts  of  Margam  Park.  Margam,  Avith  its  concomitants  of  ruined  abbey, 
ancient  cross,  monumental  stones,  and  Roman  camp.  1  m.  5  fur.  On  the  1. 
is  Tyn-y-caeau,  the  residence  of  Dr.  Hunt.  Pass  the  hamlets  of  Croes-y- 
hronbil  and  Taibach,  3  m.  3  fur.  to  the  copper  works  on  the  sea- side  near 
Aberavon  Bar,  to  Aberavon  at  the  1  m.  1  fnr.,  where  are  forges  and  rail¬ 
ways  upon  the  banks  of  the  Avon,  to  coal-pits  at  the  foot  of  Mynydd 
Bychan.  Pass  through  a  district  of  2  m.,  the  Aberavon  marsh  and  bur¬ 
rows  on  the  1.;  Mynydd  Aberavon  1  m.  1  fur.,  being  on  the  r.  Reach  Green- 
field  the  residence  of  G.  Llewelyn  on  the  r. ;  Baglan  Cottage,  l|m. ;  on  the 
1.,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  Baglan  Hall,  T.  Jones,  Esq.  Passing 
almost  close  to  Neath  Bar,  reach  Britton  Ferry,  over  the  river  Neath, 
at  its  estuary  into  Swansea  Bay,  l^m.  The  importance  given  to  this 
place  by  the  residence  and  improvements  of  the  late  Lord  Vernon  has 
caused  it  to  become  a  distinct  article  in  this  work,  to  which  the  reader 
may  refer.  At  the  23d  m.,  where  a  rivulet  and  road  diverges  to  the  r., 
are  some  houses  called  PanUHowell  du-uclia.  On  the  r.  is  the  Eagle  s  Bush 
House,  the  residence  of  Herbert  Evans,  Esq.  About  the  24th  m.  pass 
some  copper  works.  On  entering  the  town  of  Neath,  Gnoll  Castle,  H.  Grant, 
Esq.,  is  conspicuous  on  the  r. 

To  Merthyr  Tydvil,  pursue  Mr.  Malkin’s  excursion  by  Avay  of 
Aberthin,  1  j  m.  (on  the  1.  Newton  House')  Ystrad-owen,  m.(on  the  1. 
Ashall,  on  the  r.  Hensol,  B.  Hall,  Esq.,  late  of  Abercarne.  Within  1  m. 
of  Llantrisaint  on  the  1.  to  Bridgend,  10m.  Lantrisaint,^\  m.  Pont-y-Prydd, 


CRUGCAITH. 


229 


4  m.  (Cross  the  TafF  river  and  Cardiff  Canal;  on  r.  to  Cardiff,  11  m.)  See 
Pont-y-Prydd  for  the  remainder  of  the  route. 


To  Merthyr  Tydvil,  23|  miles. 

Bridgend,  6  miles.  Bingley. 

An  excursion  by  B.  H.  Malkin,  Esq.,  hence 
to  CardilF. 

Newton,  12  miles  ;  after  visiting  Penlline, 
Coity,  Llanbleiddian,  Llantwit  Major,  St. 


Donat’s,  Dunraven,  Bridport,  Llanbleiddian 
Castle.  Donovan. 

To  St.  Donatt’s,  5  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Skrine  ; 
Warner. 

Welsh  St.  Donatt’s  ,  2i  miles.  Malkin. 

Neath,  25  miles. 

Ewenny  Priory,  5  miles. 


CRUGCAITH. 


From  Penmorfa,  3  miles.  Pennant;  Bingley.  I  Llyn,  described  under  Beddgelart,  11 

From  an  excursion  in  the  Promontory  of  I  miles.  Pugh. 


CRUGCAITH  is  an  inconsiderable  market  and  borough  town,  con- 
tributary  to  Caernarvon,  situated  upon  the  n.  of  Cardigan  Bay,  in  the 
promontory  of  Llyn.  In  1831  the  population  amounted  to  648;  the 
houses  are  of  the  most  ordinary  construction,  without  even  the  regularity 
of  streets.  Inn,  the  White  Lion. 

Though  governed  by  a  mayor  and  two  bailiffs,  it  bears  a  miserable 
appearance.  Yet  is  the  place  ancient,  and  the  ruined  Castle  not  unworthy 
of  attention.  This  fortress  is  situated  upon  an  eminence  at  the  end  of  a 
long  neck  of  land,  projecting  into  the  sea.  The  entrance  was  by  this  narrow^ 
isthmus,  which  was  defended  by  a  double  foss  and  vallum  thrown  across  it. 
The  gateway,  between  two  rounded  bastion  towers,  which  are  square 
within,  leads  into  an  irregular  court,  beyond  which  is  another  of  smaller 
dimensions.  The  other  towers  are  quadrangular,  one  is  within  the  area, 
and  two  upon  the  edge  of  the  rock.  Some  writers  suppose  that  this  castle 
was  founded  by  Edward  I.  but  others,  with  more  probability,  that  he 
repaired  and  altered  it  only.  Rowland  says  (Mona  Antiqua,  149.)  that  it 
was  a  British  post.  The  architecture  resembles  a  castle  at  Dolwyddelan. 
After  the  conquest,  Edward  appointed  William  de  Leyhourn  governor,  with 
an  annual  allowance  of  100/.;  out  of  which  amount  he  had  to  maintain 
thirty  stout  men,  a  chaplain,  surgeon,  carpenter,  and  one  mason.  The  Black 
Prince  bestowed  the  government  on  Sir  Howell-y-Fwyall,  who  disputed 
with  a  knight  of  Artois,  the  capture  of  the  king  of  France,  at  Poictiers, 
He  was  allowed  eight  yeomen,  by  the  king  at  Sd.  per  day.  The  country 
lying  between  this  place  and  the  hundred  of  Eifionydd,  abounded  with 
gentry  who  formed  a  genus  the  most  irritable.  This  part  of  Caernarvon, 
in  remote  times,  was  inherited  by  two  clans  ;  one  descended  from  Owain 
Gwynedd,  prince  of  Wales,  consisted  of  four  houses,  Cesail  Gyfarch,  Ystym 
Cegid,  Clenney  Bryncir,  Glassfryn,  or  Cwmstrallyn  ;  the  other  clan  was 
derived  from  Collwyn  ap  Tangno,  and  included  the  houses  of  Whilog, 
Bron-y-Foel,  Berkin,  Gwynfryn,  Tal-hen-bont,  now  Plas~hen,  and  Pen- 
nardd.  In  the  days  alluded  to,  the  feuds  among  the  gentry  filled  the  land 
with  blood.  The  history  of  the  principality  during  that  period  forms  a 
melancholy  detail  of  revenge,  perfidy,  and  slaughter. 

To  Pwllheli,  8  m.  cross  a  little  stream  over  a  bridge  of  three  arches,  at 
Plan  Ystyndwy,  a  church  and  village,  in  a  pretty  wooded  bottom.  A  little 
further  inland  is  Plds-hen,  seat  of  the  Hon.  Thomas  Pryse  Lloyd. 
Cross  the  little  river  at  Aberarch,  near  the  church.  At  the  distance  of  a 

Q  3 


230 


CRICKHOWEL. 


mile,  reach  Pwllheli,  a  public  store  which  supplies  a  large  district  with 
necessaries.  The  entrance  is  by  a  high  rock  called  the  Gimlet. 


To  Beddgelart,  10  miles.  Eingley. 
Carnarvon,  20  miles.  Pennant. 


To  Penraorfa,  Smiles.  Pugh. 


CRICKHOWEL. 

From  Brecon,  I3|  miles.  Malkin;  Wyndham  ;  From  Abergavenny,  6  miles,  Warner. 

Manby.  Llanthony  Abbey,  7  miles.  Skrine. 

CRICKHOWEL,  a  market  town  and  parish,  is  situated  at  the  s.  e. 
extremity  of  Brecknockshire,  deriving  its  name  from  a  British  fortress 
about  2  m.  n.  n.  e.  of  the  town,  through  which  the  road  leads  from  Brecon 
to  Abergavenny.  Crickhowel  does  not  include  any  relic  of  antiquity,  and 
the  houses  appear  to  be  of  modern  construction.  A  bailiff  is  appointed 
annually.  The  Duke  of  Beaufort,  as  lord  of  the  manor,  appoints  a  coroner, 
holds  a  court-leet  twice  a  year,  and  a  court-baron  every  three  weeks  for  the 
manor.  He  also  annually  appoints  a  bailiff  for  the  town,  which  is  a 
borough  by  prescription,  but  the  office  is  merely  nominal.  The  Town  Hall 
is  situated  in  the  middle  of  High  Street,  adjoining  the  Brecon  turnpike- 
road  ;  sometimes  it  is  used  as  a  temporary  confinement  for  felons,  and 
beneath,  the  market  is  held  twice  a- week  ;  i.  e.  on  Thursday  and  Saturday. 
The  fairs  occur  Jan.  1.,  Mayl2.,  Aug.31.  In  1801  this  town  contained  566 
inhabitants.  In  1831,  the  population  amounted  to  106l.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  gentle  declivity,  at  the  bottom  of  which  runs  the  river  Usk, 
where  it  is  crossed  by  a  miserable  bridge  of  14  arches.  Mr.  Gilpin 
describes  the  site  of  Crickhowel  as  a  basin  or  valley,  containing  a  multi¬ 
plicity  of  parts,  which,  although  they  want  unity  and  harmony,  afford,  never¬ 
theless,  an  enchanting  group.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  belt  of  mountains  and 
heights,  naked,  with  irregular  ravines  between  them,  in  every  variety  of  the 
picturesque.  Many  of  the  poorer  inhabitants  are  employed  in  spinning 
yarn,  of  which  the  best  flannel  is  manufactured.  This  place  was  highly 
in  repute  for  goat’s  whey,  and  much  resorted  to  by  valetudinarians,  the  air 
being  highly  esteemed  for  its  salubrity.  Coals,  and  all  the  necessaries  of 
life  are  cheap,  and  in  great  plenty.  This  is  a  very  celebrated  fisbing 
station.  The  river  abounds  with  trout  and  salmon,  and  the  neighbour¬ 
ing  hills  with  game,  particularly  grouse.  The  Church  was  formerly  larger  ; 
having  been  found  to  be  in  a  dilapidated  state,  2  side  aisles  were  taken 
down  in  1765,  and  the  materials  used  in  repairing  the  remainder.  It  is 
now  cruciform,  consisting  of  a  chancel,  nave,  2  transepts,  with  a  tower  ter¬ 
minated  by  a  shingled  spire,  containing  5  bells.  It  has  been  remarked  as 
the  only  church  with  a  spire  in  the  county.  The  rood-loft  still  remains,  and 
is  used  as  a  belfry.  The  s.  transept  is  called  the  Rumsey  Chapel,  the  n. 
Gwernvale  Chapel,  from  the  names  of  two  estates  in  the  neighbourhood. 
Chantries  were  originally  designed  for  offering  up  prayers  for  the  souls  of 
departed  founders  and  their  families,  and  were  endowed  for  the  maintenance 
of  the  priest.  Their  use  was  discontinued  by  Edward  VI.  Modern  alter¬ 
ations  have  deprived  the  nave  of  all  distinguishing  marks  of  antiquity,  a 
lancet  window  of  3  lights,  in  the  w.  end,  only  excepted.  The  font  bears 
the  date  l66”8.  Under  a  low  arch  in  the  s.  wall  of  the  chancel  is  a 
mutilated  figure  of  a  knight,  in  a  recumbent  position,  cross-legged,  in  chain 
mail,  having  a  sword  attached  to  a  belt,  and  on  the  left  arm  a  shield,  bear¬ 
ing  the  arms  of  the  Pauncefotes.  This  tomb  is  ju-obably  that  of  Sir  Grim- 


CRICKHOWEL. 


231 


bald,  whose  lady  Sibyl,  it  is  thought,  lies  under  a  similar  arch  in  the  n.  wall, 
habited  in  ancient  costume.  The  openings  to  the  graves  were  from  with¬ 
out.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  chancel  is  a  handsome  monument  of  black  and 
white  marble,  inclosed  within  iron  rails,  supporting  an  effigy  in  alabaster, 
of  Sir  John  Herbert,  of  Dan-y-Castell,  and  his  lady  Joan.  He  died  in 
1666.  At  the  E.  end  of  this  monument  are  the  figures  of  a  man,  the  head 
broken  off,  habited  as  a  sergeant-at-law,  and  a  female,  both  kneeling,  repre¬ 
senting  Serjeant  Le  Hunt  and  his  wife,  son  of  Sir  John  Le  Hunt,  of  Middle- 
ton,  in  the  county  of  Warwick,  Knight ;  the  former  died  in  1  703,  the  latter 
in  1694.  Among  other  inscriptions  the  following  merits  attention  on 
account  of  its  classical  elegance.  M.  S.  Marise,  Henrici  Williams,  Armi- 
geri,  uxoris  dilectissimae,  feminae,  pise,  pudicae,  benevolae,  amicissimae,  fideiq. 
intactae,  e  tenebris  in  lucum,  emigravit,  Jan.  die  anno  Salutis  huma- 

nae  1786,  anno  aetatis  suae  42.  Levius  fit  patientia  quicquid  corrigere  est 
nefas.”  The  Calvinistic,  English,  and  Welsh  Wesleyan  methodists,  have 
here  respectively  places  of  worship.  Two  day  and  two  sabbath  schools  are 
in  connection  with  the  Church  of  England.  The  rooms  were  erected  at 
the  expense  of  the  Rev.  G.  J.  Bevan,  author  of  some  valuable  tracts  and 
essays.  The  ancient  custom  of  holding  what  is  called  a  Pylgain,  or  Ply- 
gain,  “  the  break  of  day  or  early  morning,”  is  still  observed  here.  Very 
early  on  Christmas  day  the  church  is  illuminated  and  public  prayers  are 
read,  attended  with  carol  singing.  Bourne  deduces  its  origin  from  an 
imitation  of  the  Gloria  in  excelsis,  sung  by  the  angels  over  the  fields  of 
Bethlehem.  The  founder  of  this  edifice  and  the  date  of  its  erection  are 
both  unknown.  It  is  dedicated  to  Edmund  King  of  East  Anglia,  whose 
feast  is  held  the  Sunday  after  the  20th  of  November. 

This  town  derives  its  name  from  Crug  Hywel,  or  Howel’s  Rock, 
about  2  m.  due  n.  upon  a  bold  knoll  on  the  Breannog  mountain.  Its  form 
is  an  irregular  triangle.  A  rampart  of  stones  surrounds  the  area,  which  is 
170  yards  by  80  wide.  It  is  externally  defended  by  a  very  deep  ditch,  cut 
out  of  the  solid  rock ;  a  high  mound  on  the  lower  side  is  nearly  precipi¬ 
tous  towards  the  vale.  It  has  no  entrance  but  from  the  n.  e.,  whence  a 
steep  road  called  Cefnffordd,  or  tlie  Ridgeway  communicates  with  the 
Disgwylfa  mountain,  or  the  Look  Out,  a  continuation  of  that  great  chain 
called  the  Black  Mountains  of  Talgarth  and  Hatterell  Hill.  This  strong 
hold  was  anciently  called  Caer  Crugiau,  or  the  Rocky  Encampment,  and  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Y^Begwns,  or  the  Beacons.  Some  attribute 
this  fortress  to  Howell  ap  Rhys,  prince  of  Gwent,  who  made  war  with  the 
Lord  of  Brecon,  for  the  lands  of  Ystradyw  and  Ewyas,  which  were 
in  the  possession  of  Howel ;  he  was,  however,  compelled  to  give  up  all  the 
lands  above  Crickhowel,  and  this  probably  was  his  frontier  entrenchment. — 
(^Sir  R.  C,  Hoare,  F.  64.)  His  short  life  was  one  continued  struggle  for  a 
small  portion  of  his  father’s  possessions,  from  which  he  was  unfortuiiately 
often  obliged  to  retire.  The  only  remains  of  the  Castle  of  Crickhowel  are 
a  tower  on  the  s.  e.  angle,  and  a  high  artificial  mount,  the  site  of  the  keep 
or  donjon,  vulgarly  called  “  the  Castle  Pump.”  It  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  beautiful  vale,  above  and  below.  The  structure  with  its  bayley  occu¬ 
pied  a  space  of  2  a.  I  r.  14  p.  The  whole  precinct  within  the  walls,  now 
called  Castle  Meadows,  was  8  acres.  In  Glyndwr's  rebellion.  Hen.  IV., 
in  1403,  entrusted  this  castle  to  John  Pauncefote  ;  the  keep  is  somewhat 
formed  like  that  of  Cardiff,  elevated  upon  an  artificial  eminence. 

There  are  no  copyhold  tenures  in  the  hundred  of  Crickhowel ;  the  lands 
are  either  freehold,  or  held  by  life  leases  under  the  Duke  of  Beaufort.  In 
the  third  year  of  Edward  IV.  Lord  Herbert  had  great  privileges  apper- 

Q  4 


CRICKHOWEL. 


232 

taining  to  his  possessions  here.  Dr.  Samuel  Croxall^  author  of  the  Fair 
Circassian,”  Morals  to  the  Fables  of  Esop,  &c.”  erected  the  mansion  at 
Gwernvale,  and  occasionally  resided  there.  He  died  in  1751,  and  devised 
that  property  to  a  very  distant  relation,  Mrs.  Hester  Bailiss  of  Hereford, 
who  conveyed  it  to  her  niece,  the  wife  of  Mr.  John  Newby,  from  whom  it 
was  purchased  by  Tristram  Everest,  Esq.,  who  built  the  present  elegant 
mansion,  now  the,  seat  of  John  Gwynne,  Esq.;  the  original  house  is  the 
property  of  Joseph  Bailey,  Esq. 

The  soil  of  this  neighbourhood  is  sandy,  and  requires  more  rain  than  that 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Wye;  but  the  climate  here  is  materially  milder  than 
that  of  Brecon,  and  vegetation  is  more  forward  in  the  spring.  In  looking 
from  the  town  towards  Llanwyse,  luxuriant  pastures  appear  intersected  by 
water,  with  the  bold  hills  in  Llangynidr  and  Cwmdu  in  the  background  ; 
and  the  landscape  from  Ty-yn-y~wlad,  or  Gwernvale,  towards  Llangattoch 
is  exceedingly  fine.  The  town  has  a  mean  appearance  ;  but  the  surround¬ 
ing  country  is  picturesque  and  beautiful  beyond  description.  The  sides  of 
the  opposite  hills  are  thickly  studded  with  elegant  seats  and  villas  :  Green- 
hill,  Dr.  Hope;  Cwrt-y-Gollen,  Rev.  R.  Davies;  More  Park,  J.  Powell, 
Esq. ;  the  Hermitage,  A.  Macnamara,  Esq.  This  picturesque  shooting- 
box  is  situated  at  the  base  of  the  Cadair  mountain,  from  whence  a  pano¬ 
ramic  view,  extending  over  the  Bristol  Channel  on  one  side,  and  beyond 
Cheltenham  on  the  other,  will  afford  the  liveliest  satisfaction  to  the  admirer 
of  highland  scenery,  and  adequately  recompense  the  labour  occasioned  by 
ascending  a  hill  upwards  of  2500  ft.  in  height.  Dan-y-Park,  E.  Kendall, 
Esq.  ;  Glanyravon  Cottage,  Rev.  G.  F.  Be  van. 

The  late  Sir  William  Oaseleys  romantic  cottage,  on  the  Llangattoch  side, 
should  notbe  overlooked.  Near  the  former  residence  of  that  Oriental  scholar 
are  several  caverns  of  considerable  extent.  During  the  summer  of  1806,  Sir 
Richard  Hoare,  Sir  \Filliam  Ouseley,  and  some  other  gentlemen,  proceeded 
to  explore  a  monument  of  antiquity  situated  upon  Pen-cerrig-calch,  n.  of 
the  village  of  Llangattoch.  It  consisted  of  a  large  accumulation  of  stones, 
generally  supposed  to  cover  the  ashes  of  military  chieftains,  and  to  mark  the 
spot  on  which  they  fell.  In  removing  these,  several  workmen  were  employed 
for  many  hours ;  at  length,  when  they  had  wrought  down  to  the  found¬ 
ation  of  the  centre  of  the  tumulus,  which  w  as  nearly  on  a  level  with  the 
surface  of  the  mountain,  they  discovered  a  square  coffin,  or  cist,  about  3  ft. 
long  and  broad,  formed  of  four  upright  stones  ;  one  below  formed  a  bottom, 
and  a  large  flat  one  at  top  a  lid  or  cover  ;  on  removing  this,  the  cist,  or  coffin, 
appeared  nearly  empty ;  a  few  small  stones  and  a  little  fine  earth,  or  sand, 
being  all  that  it  contained.  Of  the  bones,  which,  without  doubt,  had  once 
been  deposited  in  it,  no  vestiges  could  be  found.  Another,  within  a  short 
distance,  bore  evident  indications  of  having  been  examined  several  years  ago. 
The  neighbourhood  is  genteel,  consisting  of  many  ancient  and  respectable 
families.  Miss  Spence  and  her  companion  met  with  lodgings  at  Pen-y- 
droe,  which  she  describes  as  a  fairy  palace  of  delights,  the  sweetest  cot¬ 
tage  in  the  world.” 

About  1^  m.  E.  of  Csickhowel  is  Llangenen,  or  St.  Ceneu’s.  The  patron 
saint  is  Ceneu,  who  some  time  administered  the  affairs  of  St.  David’s  in  the 
sixth  century.  Near  this  spot  is  Fynnon  Geneu,  or  the  Well  of  St.  Ceneu, 
said  to  possess  many  excellent  medical  qualities,  with  this  wonderful  effect, 
moreover,  that  if  a  newly-married  couple  approached,  the  first  who  drank 
of  the  water  obtained  the  government  of  the  house  for  life  !  The  Church 
is  built  close  to  the  river  Gwynne,  at  the  bottom  of  a  narrow  deep  valley. 
Near  the  village  is  a  paper  mill.  Upon  the  mountain  called  Carno,  a  short 


CRICKHOWEL.  23S 

distance  hence^  was  fought  the  battle  between  Ethelbald  and.  the  force  of 
Glam  organ in  728. 

The  road  to  Hay  lies  through  Gwernemle.  The  village  of  Llanfair, 
of  no  peculiar  interest,  is  situated  near  the  foot  of  an  ascending  pile  of  hills. 
At  the  distance  of  2^  m.  a  narrow  horse  path  leads  to  the  village  and  ruins  of 
Tretowerj  both  of  which  are  highly  picturesque.  The  road  next  winds  along 
the  side  of  a  hill,  overlooking  the  valley  before  mentioned.  The  villages  of 
Llanfihangel-Cwm-du,  and  Coed-y-gaer  appear  at  the  head  of  it,  with  Bwlch 
and  Talgarth  Beacon  in  the  distance.  This  parish  commands  much  fertility 
of  soil,  beauty  of  situation,  and  affords  all  the  comforts  of  rural  retirement. 
The  traveller  will  find  the  ascent  of  the  Talgarth  Beacon  laborious;  but  he 
will  be  recompensed  by  a  sudden-  turn  on  the  summit,  which  displays  a  most 
grand  panoramic  view.  Llyn  Safaddan,  or  Bangor’s  Pool,  immediately  un¬ 
derneath,  produces  a  singular  effect.  The  other  principal  landmarks  are,  the 
ridge  of  Black  Mountains,  s.  of  Brecon,  closing  up  the  corner  of  the  view; 
the  villages  of  Tredwstan  and  Talgarth  in  the  bottom  ;  the  undulating  line 
of  the  Wye  beyond,  with  Bronllys  Castle  on  the  Llyfni ;  while  the  cham- 
paigne  part  of  Radnorshire  extends  due  n.  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  On 
the  summit  of  the  next  hill  is  Castell  Dinas,  now  nearly  level  with  the 
ground.  There  are  some  traces  here  of  a  subterraneous  passage. 

Castell  Bronllys  occurs  a  short  distance  to  the  1.  on  the  high  road,  upon 
the  bank  of  the  river  Llyfni,  between  Ty-newydd  and  Talgarth.  The  only 
remains  of  the  castle  are  included  in  a  lofty  circular  tower  of  a  most  singular 
construction,  unlike  any  thing  Roman  or  Norman.  It  corresponds  with 
Chardin’s  account  of  the  subordinate  kind  of  Median,  or  Mingrelian  ancient 
eastern  castles.  It  is  built,  in  part,  of  small  turnstone,  the  art  of  forming 
which  may  very  justly  be  conceived  to  have  been  acquired,  in  a  degree,  by 
the  Britons  from  the  Phoenicians.  The  village  of  Talgarth  is  pleasantly 
situated,  and  rather  neat. 

On  the  road  to  Brecon,  a  naked  hill  to  the  r.,  has  the  appearance  of  a 
truncated  cone :  upon  its  summit  is  an  ancient  encampment.  In  front, 
the  hills  are  numerous  and  confused,  some  of  them  cultivated  to  the  very 
summit,  others  naked  and  precipitous.  On  the  1.  is  Captain  Frederick’s 
house,  a  modern  structure,  with  a  castellated  lodge  and  wall,  the  remnant  of 
a  ruin.  The  view  through  the  arch  forming  the  gateway,  presents  a  most 
pleasing  landscape  of  the  Usk,  a  rocky  mountain  and  fertile  vale.  In  the 
adjoining  parish  of  Llanwrtyd,  there  lived  the  widow  of  one  farmer  James, 
who,  in  July  1811,  attained  the  age  of  126  years.  The  handsome  seat  of 
John  Gwynne,  Esq.,  stands  about  from  Crickhowel  on  the  r.,  midway 
up  the  side  of  the  hill.  The  green  mount  of  Miarth  next  unfolds,  from 
which  the  landscape  is  beautiful  and  varied.  It  often  has  been  doubted 
whether  the  ancient  remains  called  Crow/ecAnw  are  intended  to  commemorate 
heroic  exploits,  raised  as  sepulchral  monuments,  or  for  the  purposes  of 
religious  worship.  With  a  desire  of  making  some  discovery  relative  to  this 
subject,  the  very  fine  cromlech  situated  about  ^  m.  from  Crickhowel  im¬ 
mediately  on  the  left-hand  side  of  this  road,  was  examined  in  the  year  1 804, 
by  Sir  Richard  Hoare,  Sir  William  Ouseley,  Mr.  Jones,  and  several  others. 
It  consisted  of  a  flat  stone,  about  14  ft.  long,  14  ft.  thick,  and  from 
5  to  8  ft.  broad,  resting  on  four  upright  ones.  A  team  of  horses  was 
procured  to  remove  the  former.  The  space  of  ground  which  it  had  covered 
was  then  dug  into  and  carefully  examined.  The  bones  of  some  animal 
and  fragments  of  charcoal  were  found  near  the  surface,  probably  thrown 
there  by  travellers  who  had  prepared  a  repast.  At  the  depth  of  6  ft.,  the 
workmen  reached  the  native  virgin  earth,  when  the  exhumation  was  dis- 


234 


CRICKHOWEL. 


continued.  Hence  it  may  be  inferred  that  this  cromlech  was  not  constructed 
as  a  sepulchral  monument.  There  was  immediately  behind  this  spot  a 
circle  of  upright  stones,  resembling  those  at  the  heads  of  graves  in  church¬ 
yards.  Proceeding,  the  Llanfihangel  Cwm~du  hills  appear.  Make  a  di¬ 
gression  of  \  m.  from  the  road  to  the  antiquated  Castle  of  Tretower,  which 
stands  in  a  retired  spot  on  the  r.  This  interesting  ruin  is  much  less 
visited  than  more  obtrusive  but  less  beautiful  objects.  Adjoining  the 
Castle  grounds  is  the  fair  place  of  Henry  Vehan,  Esq.,”  now  a  farm¬ 
house.  Among  the  descendants  of  that  ancient  family  was  Sir  Roger 
Vaughan,  knighted  in  the  agonies  of  death  by  Henry  V.  on  the  field  of 
Agincourt,  together  with  Sir  David  Gam  and  two  others  of  his  brave 
countrymen,  who  received  their  death- wounds  in  their  sovereign’s  defence. 
In  the  area  grow  the  Atropa  belladonna,  Cynoglossum  officinale,  Hyos- 
cyamus  niger,  several  species  of  the  Polygonum,  Adianthum  capillus  ve¬ 
neris,  and  Parietaria  officinalis.  Ascend  the  Buolcli  hills,  on  the  brow  of 
which  stands  a  public  house ;  and,  crossing  the  ascent,  catch  a  view  of 
Llyn  Safaddan,  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  bending  in  a  semicircular  direction 
along  the  base  of  one  of  the  hills  on  the  r.,  and  extending  about  3  m.,  in  a 
rich  and  extensive  vale.  It  abounds  with  pike,  perch,  trout,  and  eels  of 
an  enormous  size,  the  pike  weighing  sometimes  30  or  40  pounds,  but 
inferior  in  flavour  to  those  of  the  Wye.  The  perch  are  generally  small, 
but  in  great  abundance.  All  persons  having  property  adjoining  the  lake, 
possess  the  right  of  keeping  a  boat  upon  its  waters.  Tradition  says  that  a 
large  city  was  swallowed  up  here  by  an  earthquake.  On  the  1.,  the 
Buckland  hills,  overtopped  by  tbe  highest  point  of  the  Beacons  near  Brecon, 
present  their  green  undulating  fronts.  Several  handsome  seats  enliven  the 
foreground,  particularly  Buckland  House,  T.  H.  Gwynne,  Esq.,  an  elegant 
fabric,  delightfully  situated  upon  a  knoll,  on  the  left  of  the  Usk  ;  Maes- 
mawr,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  the  seat  of  George  Lewis,  Esq.  This 
property  once  belonged  to  a  family  of  the  name  of  Jones,  lineally  descended 
from  Bleddin  ap  Maenarch,  of  which  one  branch  settled  at  Buckland. 
The  New  Inn  at  the  village  of  Bwlch-r  allwys,  is  a  comfortable  house. 
While  here,  visit  Craig-y-Deryn,  “  the  rock  of  birds  the  scenery  will  repay 
the  walk  of  4  m.  It  may  be  seen  to  great  advantage  soon  after  sun-rise. 
Mr.  Newell  has  produced  an  excellent  print  of  this  rock  in  his  ‘‘  Scenery 
of  Wales,”  page  111.  Our  road  from  Tal-y-Llyn,”  says  he,  ‘^for 
some  way  ran  along  a  precipice,  overlooking  a  narrow  lonely  valley,  inter¬ 
spersed  by  a  rapid  shallow  stream,  with  corn  field  or  pasturage,  a  mill  and 
cottage.  From  its  opposite  side  the  mountains  rise  in  beautiful  variety  of 
colour  and  surface.  Further  on,  we  pass  a  woody  eminence,  where  once 
stood  Tref  Seri  Castle.  The  road  then  gradually  descends  to  an  extensive 
flat  of  pasturage,  bounded  by  mountains,  the  Craig-y-Deryn  tow exing  upon 
our  1.  Viewed  in  front  this  rock  is  a  curious  object,  shooting  up  200  ft. 
from  a  declivity  covered  with  enormous  stones,  rising  700  ft.  from  the 
base.  An  excursion  from  Tal-y-Llyn  to  Dolgelly  over  Cader  Idris,  is 
difficult  and  laborious,  practicable  only  on  foot,  but  exceedingly  interesting.” 

Pursuing  the  road  to  Brecon,  the  hills  open  in  various  fantastic  shapes, 
exhibiting  several  sinuosities  and  basins  upon  the  sides  ;  the  summits  are 
truncated  and  abrupt.  Pass  Llansanffraid,  the  church  of  which  village 
has  a  singularly  cupolated  tower.  From  this  spot  the  Usk  appears  in  great 
beauty ;  and  Buckland  House,  the  seat  of  T.  H.  Gwynne,  Esq.,  with  its 
accompaniments,  presents  a  very  charming  residence.  The  Usk  now  flows 
by  the  road  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  to  Brecon.  Its  banks  do  not 
possess  the  bold  features  of  the  Wye  ;  and  it  is  more  rapid  and  incapable 


DENBIGH. 


235 


of  navigation.  This  defect^  is  however,  supplied  by  the  Brecon  canal 
which  accompanies  its  progress,  and  in  one  place  is  conveyed  over  it  upon 
a  series  of  brick  arches.  Seetlirog  House,  the  residence  of  John  Jones,  Esq., 
2  m.  The  present  mansion  is  modern  ;  the  old  family  seat,  called  the 
Tower,  is  occupied  by  a  farmer.  On  the  road-side  near  this  place,  is  a 
cylindrical  stone,  about  ft.  high,  bearing  an  obliterated  inscription  of 
which  vicTORiNi”  is  only  intelligible.  Within  the  adjoining  parish  of 
Llanhamlech,  is  another  relic  of  ancient  time.  It  is  situated  upon  the 
summit  of  a  hill  called  Mannest,  not  far  from  the  road,  and  is  called 
Maen  llltyd  or  Illtyd's  House.  [See  Brecon.] 

The  road  from  Crickhowel  to  Brecon  is  in  general  excellent ;  at  the 
distance  of  a  mile  from  the  latter  place,  it  approaches  so  near  the  canal  as 
would  be  dangerous  without  a  fence. 

Fishing  Stations. —  Grwyne  Vawr,  7  ui.  ;  Glaugrwny,  2  m.,  one  of  the 
best  stations  in  the  county  ;  Llanjihangel  Cwmdu,  4  m.;  Tretower,  3  m. 
on  the  Rhiangel. 

To  Hay,  19  miles.  Malkin.  j  To  Abergavenny,  6  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Manby. 

Brecon,  14  miles.  Warner ;  Skrine.  J 


DENBIGH. 


From  St.  Asaph,  6  miles.  Pennant ;  Bingley ; 
Hutton. 

Holywell,  14  miles.  Aikin. 

Ruthin,  8  miles.  Warner  ;  Gilpin. 


From  Llanrwst,  22  miles.  Wyndham. 

Bassingwerk,  Abbey,  15  miles.  Skrine. 
Conwy,  25  miles.  Gilpin. 
Llanrhaiadyr,  4  miles.  Pugh. 


DENBIGH,  the  capital  of  Denbighshire,  is  situated  near  the  centre  of 
DyfFryn-Clwyd,  upon  a  limestone  eminence  forming  a  prominent  point  in  a 
tract  of  the  country  cailed  Rhos.  Hence  its  ancient  British  name  was  Castell 
Caled-Vryn-yn-Rhos.,  i.  e.  the  castle  on  the  craggy  hill  in  Rhos,  com¬ 
manding  an  extensive  view  of  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  vale  of  Clwydd. 
The  New  Town,  standing  below  the  rocky  ridge,  gradually  arose  from  the  old. 
This,  extending  down  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and  some  way  round  the  base, 
consists  of  three  leading  streets  connected  with  smaller  ones  well  paved 
and  lighted.  The  neighbouring  springs  in  dry  seasons  fail,  with  the 
exception  of  Goblin  Well,  where  is  a  cold  bath.  In  1831,  the  population 
was  3786.  Denbigh  was  made  a  borough  in  the  time  of  Edward  I.  The 
corporation  consists  of  two  aldermen,  a  recorder,  two  bailiffs,  who  are  sheriflPs, 
twenty-five  common  councilmen,  two  coroners,  and  other  subordinate  of¬ 
ficers.  It  sends  one  member  to  parliament  in  conjunction  with  Holt  and 
Ruthin.  This  town  has  undergone  many  improvements.  The  Town- 
Hall  is  an  extensive  and  commodious  building,  containing  a  council-chamber 
and  court-room.  Here  are  also  a  reading-room  and  a  Welsh  literary  so¬ 
ciety.  A  blue-coat  charity-school  clothes  and  educates  twenty-four  boys. 
Charitable  bequests  to  the  amount  of  1700/.,  have  been  nearly  all  lost 
through  mismanagement  or  neglect.  Here  are  places  of  worship  for 
Baptists,  Independents,  and  for  Calvinistic  and  Wesleyan  Methodists.  The 
Free  Grammar-school  was  founded  by  subscription  in  1727*  A  National 
School  was  instituted  in  1816.  A  Dispensary  is  supported  by  a  very 
liberal  subscription  among  the  inhabitants  and  neighbouring  families.  The 
only  authentic  accounts  of  this  place  commence  with  the  foundation  of  its 
Castle.  On  the  death  of  Llywelyn,  his  brother  Dafyd  considered  himself 
the  legal  sovereign  of  N.  Wales,  and  summoned  the  Welsh  chieftains  as 
subjects,  to  meet  him  at  Dinbech  a  small  hill  fortress,  for  the  purpose  of 


236 


DENBIGH. 


holding  a  consultation  respecting  their  common  interests.  Desirous  of 
vindicating  the  injured  rights  of  the  country^  he  commenced  hostilities 
against  the  English  ;  this  measure  terminated  in  his  capture  and  impri¬ 
sonment,  with  the  total  subjugation  of  the  Welsh.  Edward  bestowed  this 
fortress  on  Henry  Lacy  Earl  of  Lincoln,  who  built  the  castle  and  sheltered 
the  town  by  a  wall.  After  the  death  of  this  nobleman,  the  fortress  and 
lordship  came  to  Thomas,  Earl  of  Lancaster,  who  married  Alicia,  his 
daughter.  The  estate,  upon  the  attainder  of  Lancaster,  was  given  to 
Hugh  Despencer,  the  minion  of  Edward  II. ;  on  the  execution  of  Des¬ 
pencer,  the  lordship  and  castle  reverted  again  to  the  Crown.  Edward  III. 
gave  them  to  Roger  Mortimer,  Earl  of  March,  on  whose  attainder  and 
death  they  were  granted  to  William  Montacute,  Earl  of  Salisbury  :  they 
were  afterwards  possessed  by  the  grandson  of  the  Earl  of  March,  his 
attainder  being  reversed  in  the  reign  of  Richard  II.  In  process  of  time, 
the  estate  becoming  again  by  marriage  the  property  of  the  Crown,  was 
granted  by  queen  Elizabeth  in  156*3  to  her  favourite  Dudley  Earl  of 
Leicester.  In  l645,  Charles  I.  halted  here  after  his  retreat  from  Chester, 
and  from  this  circumstance  a  tower  containing  the  rooms  which  he  oc¬ 
cupied  still  retains  the  name  Siambr-y-Brenkin,  or  the  royal  apartment. 
The  following  year,  the  castle  was  in  the  possession  of  the  Royalists  under 
the  government  of  Colonel  William  Salusbury.  It  was  besieged  by  General 
Mytton,  by  an  investment  made  on  the  l6th  of  July,  but  the  garrison  did 
not  surrender  till  the  3d  of  November  following.  It  was  probably  dis¬ 
mantled  on  changing  possessors,  and  after  the  restoration  of  Charles  IL, 
was  blown  up  with  gunpowder,  and  rendered  completely  untenable.  This 
fortress  appears  to  have  been  a  superb  structure,  formed  by  grouting ; 
i.  e.  two  walls,  occupying  the  extremities  of  the  intended  thickness,  were 
first  built  in  the  ordinary  manner,  with  a  vacancy  between  them,  into 
which  was  poured  a  mixture  of  hot  mortar  and  rough  stones  of  all  sizes, 
which,  on  cooling,  consolidated  into  a  solid  mass  as  hard  as  stone.  The 
grand  entrance  is  through  a  magnificent  pointed  archway  flanked  by  two 
majestic  octagonal  towers.  In  an  ornamented  niche  over  the  centre  of  the 
arch  is  still  remaining,  tolerably  entire,  the  statue  of  the  founder ;  and 
over  a  gateway  that  stood  on  the  1.  of  this,  was  another  of  his  wife.  These 
ruins  cover  the  summit  of  the  craggy  hill,  one  side  of  which  is  boldly 
precipitous.  The  prospects  through  the  broken  arches  and  frittering  walls 
is  extensive  and  peculiarly  fine.  The  vale  of  Clwyd  is  presented  in  rich 
variety,  decorated  with  villas,  and  terminated  by  a  line  of  hills,  from  the 
rock  of  Dysserth  to  Moel  Fenlli. 

Denbigh  has  been  compared  to  Stirling  in  Scotland.  Crowned  with  a 
majestic  ruin,  the  town,  viewed  from  a  distant  part  of  the  country,  assumes 
an  imposing  aspect ;  but  the  Castle  is  seen  to  the  greatest  advantage  from 
the  road  to  Ruthin.  Approaching  the  base  of  Denbigh-hill,  by  Henulan 
Street,  turn  over  a  field  to  the  r.,  by  an  ascending  path  ;  from  the  higher 
ground  may  be  recognised,  in  a  fragment  of  the  ruined  wall  of  the  castle 
on  the  1.,  a  remarkably  striking  likeness,  in  profile,  of  George  II.  ;  the 
forehead,  eyes,  brow,  nose,  moutb,  chin,  and  even  the  shape  of  his  wig 
and  shoulders,  are  exactly  characteristic.  Denbigh  was  originally  inclosed 
and  fortified  with  one  square  and  three  round  towers  that  connected 
it  with  the  castle.  There  were  two  entrances,  the  exchequer-gate  in 
which  was  held  the  royal  baronial  courts,  and  the  burgesses’  gate,  in  which 
affairs  relative  to  municipal  business  were  transacted.  In  one  of  these 
precincts  stands  St.  Hilary’s,  a  chapel  formerly  belonging  to  the  garrison, 
and  now  the  parochial  church.  The  remains  of  a  sacred  edifice,  170  ft.  in 


DENBIGH. 


237 

lengthy  and  71  broad^  are  within  the  walls  of  the  fortress.  The  structure, 
as  appears  from  a  date  upon  a  foundation-stone,  was  begun  in  1579)  under 
the  directions  of  Dudley  Earl  of  Leicester,  but,  it  is  said,  he  desisted  from 
prosecuting  the  work,  from  a  dislike  to  the  Welsh  who  resisted  his  in¬ 
sufferable  tyranny.  A  sum  is  said  to  have  been  afterwards  collected  for 
the  purpose  of  completing  the  plan  ;  but  the  Earl  of  Essex  passing  through 
the  place,  on  his  ill-fated  expedition  to  Ireland,  obtained  a  loan  of  the 
money  which  he  failed  to  reimburse ;  the  building,  in  consequence,  was 
left  unfinished,  and  the  effects  of  time  have  changed  it  to  a  ruin.  Of  the 
original  structure  one  lofty  arched  gateway  alone  remains.  On  the  s.  w., 
are  a  terrace  and  bowling-green,  commanding  one  of  the  richest  views  of 
the  vale  of  Clwyd.  On  the  e.,  it  is  terminated  by  the  ocean  at  Llandulas 
Bay ;  and  on  the  s.,  by  the  whole  range  of  the  mountains  of  Clwyd,  with 
their  camps  and  tumuli.  A  Monastic  Institution  is  said  by  Speed  to  have 
been  formed  here  by  John  de  Sunimore,  in  the  year  1399*  But,  from  an 
authentic  document  upon  a  mutilated  ancient  brass  found  some  years  since, 
it  appears  to  have  been  a  Priory  for  Carmelites  or  white  friars,  founded, 
long  anterior  to  that  date,  by  John  Salushury  oi  Lleveni,  who  died  in  1289. 
The  conventual  church,  in  which  the  family  of  the  founder  were  interred 
previous  to  the  Reformation,  is  all  that  remains  of  this  edifice  ;  it  is  now 
converted  into  a  malt-house.  The  e.  window,  a  fine  composition,  and 
the  roof  of  carved  oak,  are  still  entire. 

The  Parish  Church,  dedicated  to  St.  Marcellus,  is  at  Whitchurch,  about  a 
mile  distant,  on  the  road  to  Ruthin.  In  the  porch,  on  brass,  are  the  effigies  of 
Richard  Middleton,  of  Gwaenynog,  and  Jane  his  wife,  in  a  kneeling  pos¬ 
ture.  He  was  governor  of  Denbigh  Castle,  in  the  reigns  of  Edward  VI., 
Mary,  and  Elizabeth.  In  relievo,  are  nine  sons,  and  behind  the  wife,  seven 
daughters.  Several  of  these  were  men  of  distinguished  characters,  particularly 
the  third,  named  William,  a  sea  captain  and  an  eminent  poet,  who  received 
his  education  at  Oxford.  Thomas,  the  fourth  son,  became  lord  mayor  of 
London,  and  founder  of  the  family  of  Chirh  Castle.  The  speculative  genius 
of  Hugh,  the  sixth  son,  appeared  at  an  early  age  in  attempts  to  search  for 
coal  in  the  neighbourhood  of  his  native  place,  but,  not  succeeding,  he 
removed  to  London,  where  he  became  a  citizen  and  goldsmith.  His  success 
in  trade  enabled  him  to  farm  the  principal  lead  and  silver  mines  in  Cardi¬ 
ganshire,  at  400/.  a-year  ;  yet  so  profitable  were  these  works  that  from 
one  mine  yielding  nearly  100  ounces  of  silver  from  a  ton  of  lead,  he  derived 
a  clear  profit  of  2000/.  per  month.  This  immense  revenue  he  expended  in 
carrying  into  execution  a  plan  of  supplying  the  city  of  London  with  water. 
The  proposal  was  made  in  l608,  and  the  work  was  completed  in  five  years. 
The  first  issue  of  the  waters  from  the  head  at  Islington  was  honoured  by 
the  presence  of  King  James  I.,  with  his  court,  and  corporation  of  London. 
He  received  the  honour  of  knighthood,  and  afterwards  of  baronetage,  but 
his  property  was  exhausted  by  the  undertaking,  and  the  ingratitude  of  the 
public  allowed  him  to  be  reduced  to  the  profession  of  a  surveyor.  Morti- 
.  lying  as  was  the  result  of  finishing  the  New  River,  his  ardent  spirit  for 
public  undertakings  caused  him  to  engage  in  reclaiming  2000  acres  from 
the  sea,  in  the  Isle  of  Wight,  by  embanking.  He  died  in  l631,  and  his 
family  declined  into  narrow  circumstances,  while  the  property  which  he  had 
created  rose  to  an  unexampled  value.  He  left  a  number  of  New  River 
shares  to  the  poor  of  the  Goldsmith’s  Company  ;  yet,  in  after  times,  his 
descendant  and  representative,  when  a  widow,  was  debarred  from  benefiting 
by  the  charity  of  her  ancestor,  because  her  husband  had  omitted  to  take  out 
his  freedom  as  a  goldsmith  !  Mr.  Bushel,  the  ingenious  servant  of  Sir 


238 


DENBIGH. 


Francis  Bacon,  was  the  successor  of  Sir  Hugh  Middleton  at  the  mines; 
In  the  body  of  the  building  is  an  ill-executed  mural  monument  to  the 
memory  of  the  learned  antiquary  Humphrey  Llwyd,  of  Foxhall.  He  is 
represented  kneeling  beneath  a  range  of  small  arches,  in  a  Spanish  costume. 
He  graduated  at  Oxford,  entered  the  medical  profession,  and  represented 
in  parliament  the  borough  of  Denbigh,  his  native  place ;  where  he  prema¬ 
turely  died  in  1568,  aged  41.  He  published  ‘^‘'Commentariolum  Britannise,’’ 
an  epistle,  De  Mona  Druidum  insula,  antiquitati  suse  restituta,”  and 
various  other  tracts.  A  high  altar-tomb  memorialises  Sir  John  Salusbury 
and  his  lady.  A  mural  monument  on  the  w.  wall  was  erected  by  the 
Gwyneddigion  Society  in  London,  to  the  memory  of  Thomas  Edwards  of 
Nant,  the  celebrated  Cambrian  poet,  who  died,  aged  72,  April  1810.  He 
was  born  in  1739^  at  Penporcliell  Isaf,\n  the  parish  of  Llan-Nefydd,  Den¬ 
bighshire,  a  tenement  formerly  the  property  of  Jolo  Goch  Edwards,  alias 
Twm  o’  Nant ;  was  paternally  descended  from  Cawryd  ap  Cadfan,  lord 
of  Dytfryn-clwyd.  His  dramatic  compositions  present  a  lively  picture  of 
the  manners  of  his  countrymen,  his  humorous  pieces  are  unrivalled,  and 
his  sermons  energetic. 

A  new  Church  is  in  erection  at  Denbigh,  the  fund  for  which  already 
amounts  to  1800/.  The  Bull  and  Crown  are  the  principal  Inns. 

An  Agricultural  Society  is  established  here,  who  meet  to  report  progress 
for  reciprocal  information  ;  and  a  Horticultural  Society,  for  the  counties  of 
Denbigh  and  Flint,  is  in  the  course  of  formation. 

The  Markets  are  on  Wednesday  and  Saturday.  The  Fairs  are  held  on 
Friday  sennight  before  Easter  day,  May  14th,  June  28th,  July  18th, 
Sept.  25th,  and  second  Wednesday  in  November. 

The  Epiphany  and  Trinity  Quarter  Sessions  are  held  here. 

Mr.  Pennant  made  a  considerable  Excursion  from  Denbigh,  passing 
Gwaenynog  to  Henllan,  2  m.  n.  w.  The  latter  is  the  parochial  church 
of  this  district;  remarkable  for  a  schism  between  church  and  steeple  ;  the 
former  having  retreated  to  the  bottom,  while  the  latter  maintained  its  station 
upon  the  top  of  the  hill.  This  edifice  was  covered  with  shingles,  a  species  of 
roof  almost  obsolete.  Near  this  place  grows  in  barren  pastures,  Aira  cristata  ; 
in  pastures  upon  hme  rocks,  Aira  praecox ;  among  the  lime  rocks,  Poa 
rigida;  upon  the  hill.  Trifolium  glomeratum ;  in  a  dry  field  between 
Tynewydd  and  Eriviatt,  Thymus  acinos  ;  upon  the  first  common,  ascend¬ 
ing  the  hill  from  Denbigh,  Spergula  subulata.  Not  far  distant,  on  the 
banks  of  the  brook  Meirchion,  are  the  remains  of  a  Llys  or  court  of  Aferec/- 
dydd  ap  Meirchion,  or  Merach  y  Meirch,  Lord  of  Isdulas.  The  chapel,  now 
standing,  is  used  as  a  farm-house. 

Hence  after  a  ride  of  5  m.,  reached  Dyffryn  Ailed,  a  narrow  vale  bounded 
by  high  hills,  and  ornamented  by  a  modern  magnificent  seat,  built  by  Mrs, 
Meyric.  At  the  head  of  the  valley  stand  the  village  and  church  of  Han- 
sannan,  1  m.  Stow  says,  that  “  in  this  parish  there  is  a  circular  plain,  cut 
out  of  the  main  rock,  upon  the  side  of  a  stony  hill,  with  some  24  seats,  un¬ 
equal,  called  by  the  country  people  Arthur  s  Round  Table.”  Mr.  Pennant  sup¬ 
poses  such  places  were  designed  for  chivalrous  feats  in  tilts  and  tournaments, 
and  that  the  circular  area,  surrounded  by  a  high  mound,  a  ditch  in  the 
inside,  and  two  entrances  one  opposite  the  other,  were  for  the  knights  to 
enter  at  and  make  their  onset. 

On  his  way  to  Gwytherin,  4|  m.,  celebrated  for  receiving  the  remains  of 
St.  Winifred  after  her  second  death,  Mr.  Pennant  descended  a  very  steep 
wooded  dell,  in  the  township  of  Penared,  to  visit  the  gloomy  cataract  of 
Llyn-yr-ogvo,  where  the  Ailed  tumbles  into  a  horrible  black  cavern,  over- 


DENBIGH. 


239 

shadowed  by  oaks.  Somewhat  higher  is  another  waterfall  exposed  to  full 
day^  falling  from  a  vast  height^  and  dividing  the  naked  glen.  Llyn  Aled, 
3\  m.  N.  w.,  the  small  lake  from  which  the  river  flows,  lies  at  a  short  dis¬ 
tance,  amidst  black  and  heathy  mountains.  In  this  pool  grow  Chara 
flexilis,  Eriophorum  vaginatum,  E.  polystachion  ;  in  mossy  bogs  near,  Viola 
palustris ;  in  a  morassy  flat  a  mile  n.  e.  of  the  pool,  called  Gors-y-Casseg  ; 
and  also  w.  of  the  pool,  Andromeda  polyfolia.  The  little  village  and  church 
of  Gwytherin  stand  upon  a  bank,  at  the  head  of  a  small  vale,  near  the  rise 
of  the  Elwy.  In  the  church  is  shown  a  box  in  which  the  relics  of  St. 
Winifred  were  kept  before  their  removal  to  Shrewsbury.  Here  is  also  an 
ancient  grave-stone,  bearing  a  cross  fleure  and  chalice.  To  the  n.  side,  stand 
four  rude  upright  stones. 

On  Mr.  Pennant’s  return  to  Gwaenynog,  he  followed  the  course  of  the 
Elwy,  hy  Hafodynys,  by  the  church  and  village  of  Llangerniw,  where  is  some 
of  the  most  rugged  and  mountainous  scenery  in  the  county,  and  an  admirable 
station  for  angling  ;  hence  he  passed  by  Garthewin,  commanding  a  most 
lovely  view  of  a  fertile  valley,  bounded  by  hills,  and  covered  by  hanging 
woods.  Thence  by  Llanfair  Talhaiaryi,  a  village  and  church,  at  a  short 
distance  above  the  conflux  of  the  Elwy  and  Aled.  In  this  parish  was 
one  of  the  residences  of  Hedd  Molwynog,  descended  from  Roderick  the  Great, 
king  of  all  Wales ;  a  large  moat  called  Yr  Hen  LlySy  marks  the  place. 
From  Gwaenynog  he  passed  beneath  Denbigh  Castle,  visited  Llanrhaidyb, 
a  village  in  the  middle  of  the  vale,  the  Church  of  which  is  still  remarkable 
for  an  east  window  of  painted  glass,  very  entire,  delineating  the  root  of 
Jesse.  Here  is  a  ponderous  monument  to  the  memory  of  Maurice  Jones, 
Esq.,  of  Llanrhaidyr.  In  the  churchyard  is  a  tomb  of  a  gentleman  who 
chose  to  build  his  fame  on  a  long  genealogy.  From  an  eminence  to  the 
N.  w.,  called  Cadair  Gwladus,  or  Gwladus’s  Chair,  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
va^e  between  Denbigh  and  Ruthin.  At  the  foot  of  this  rising  is  Fynnon 
Ddyfnog,  a  fine  spring,  inclosed  in  an  angular  wall,  and  decorated  with 
small  human  figures.  Contiguous  are  some  comfortable  Almshouses  for 
eight  widows,  founded  by  Mrs.  Jones,  of  Llanrhaidyr,  in  1729  ;  each  w'idow 
has  a  garden,  and  2s.  per  week.  This  lady  also  endowed  the  Blue-coat 
school,  Denbigh. 

“  Of  all  the  beautiful  scenes  in  this  neighbourhood,”  says  Mr.  Gilpin, 
“  Cwm  Cyffredin  pleased  me  most.  It  lies  about  5  m.  n.  w.  of  Denbigh,  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Elwy.  The  high  grounds  which  lead  into  it,  form  also 
the  screen  of  another  valley  which  unites  with  Cyffredin.  This  valley  too 
is  adorned  with  its  stream,  and  with  a  variety  of  wood  and  lawn.  A  little 
bridge  at  the  bottom  formed  a  point,  whence  is  a  prospect  of  both  valleys. 
But  the  views  both  above  and  below  the  bridge  are  the  most  interesting. 
That  part  of  this  beautiful  valley,  which  winds  down  the  Elwy,  is  formed 
by  a  lofty  screen  of  rock  on  the  1.,  in  which  the  principal  feature  is  a  cave  ; 
and  by  a  high  w'oody  bank  on  the  r. :  but  the  river  taking  a  short  turn, 
this  part  of  the  valley  soon  winds  out  of  sight ;  the  other  portion,  which 
winds  up  the  stream,  continues  at  least  a  mile  before  the  eye :  both  its 
screens  are  woody,  but  not  so  lofty  as  those  below  the  bridge.”  Mr.  Gil¬ 
pin  pursued  his  route  hence  up  the  Elwy,  as  far  as  Pont-newydd^  4  m., 
which  affords  some  beautiful  views. 

To  Ruthin  pass  Whitchurch  before  described,  1  m.,  then  deviate 
from  the  direct  road  for  the  sake  of  seeing  IJeweny  Hall,  m., 
the  seat  of  the  Rev.  Edward  Hughes,  situated  in  a  rich  district 
watered  by  the  Clwyd.  In  the  ancient  hall  there  are  some  antique  arms 
and  a  few  pictures,  particularly  some  portraits  of  the  Salusburys.  At  a 


240 


DENBIGH. 


short  distance  are  extensive  bleaching  works^  established  by  the  Honourable 
Thomas  Fitzmaurice.  A  mile  hence  lies  Bryn-Bella,  once  the  beautiful 
residence  of  Mrs.  Piozzi,  the  literary  friend  of  Dr.  Johnson  ;  a  very  fine  situa¬ 
tion^  commanding  a  prospect  of  the  town  and  castle  of  Denbigh  from  the 
front.  Bodfari  lies  i  m.  from  the  bleaching  works  at  Lleweny.  The 
Church  is  placed  upon  an  admirable  elevation  ;  but  the  interior  affords  no 
object  of  attraction,  except  a  curious  pulpit  of  carved  oak.  The  contiguous 
mountain,  Moel-y-Gaer,  the  fortified  summit,”  has  upon  it  some  fine 
remains  of  a  military  work.  They  are  probably  of  British  origin,  since 
the  Britons  built  upon  eminences,  a  plan  not  pursued  by  the  Romans. 
Ash-pool  on  the  1.  2  m.,  Bron  yw^  1  m.,  a  handsome  house  with  a  colonnade 
front,  belonging  to  Mr.  Maddocks.  Upon  the  summit  of  a  lofty  mountain,  is 
a  modern  cottage  for  the  accommodation  of  grousing  parties,  whence  may 
be  surveyed  the  aggregated  beauties  of  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  with  the  distant 
shores  of  Cheshire  and  Lancashire.  Fids  Draw^  3  m.,  is  situated  upon  a 
pretty  elevation  above  the  vale  on  the  r.  Catch  a  glimpse  near  here  of 
Moel  Fammau,  1845  ft.  two  limbs  of  which  run  into  the  valley.  “  Quitting 
this  sweet  spot,”  says  Mr.  Pugh,  and  striking  through  the  meadows,  I 
soon  reached  my  native  place.” 

At  Garn,  resides  J.  W.  Griffith,  Esq.,  who  ably  contributed  to  the 
English  Botany  of  Sowerby.  In  the  vicinity  of  Denbigh  are, —  Henllan 
Place,  R.  L.  Williams,  Esq.:  Pi'ohii  Park,  T.  Prohy,  Esq.:  Grove  House, 
J.  Williams,  Esq.,  M.D. 

Another  route  to  Ruthin  may  be  made  to  Nantglynn,  taking  Gwaenynog, 
lying  l^m.  s.w.  fronted  by  majestic  oaks.  Mr.  Gilpin  was  very  much 
pleased  with  this  recess.  From  various  parts  of  the  grounds  may  he  had 
some  fine  glimpses  of  the  Vale  of  Clwyd,  and  good  views  of  Denbigh 
Castle.  In  the  park  of  Gwaenynog  is  a  monument,  consisting  of  a  tall 
Grecian  urn,  resting  on  a  square  pedestal,  erected  by  a  former  proprietor, 
and  hearing  the  following  inscription  : — 

Samuel  Johnson,  LL.  D. 
obiit  xiii  die  Decembris, 
anno  domini 

MDCCLXXXIV. 

Eetatis  suae  lxxv. 

This  spot 

was  often  dignified  by  the  presence  of 
Samuel  Johnson, 

LL.I). 

whose  moral  writings,  exactly  conformable 
*  to  the 

precepts  of  Christianity,  gave  ardour 
to  virtue 

and  confidence  to  truth. 

Nantglynn,  2  m.  the  birthplace  David  Samwell,  who  sailed  round  the 
world  with  Captain  Cook,  as  surgeon  to  the  ship  Discovery.  He  has 
written  a  detailed  account  of  the  death  of  Cook,  which  appears  in  the 
Biographia  Britannica.  Mr.  Samwell  died  1799^  and  was  buried  in  St. 
Dunstan’s,  West.  Descend  rapidly  into  a  richly- wooded  glen,  in  which  is 
immured  the  little  village  of  Cyffylliog,  At  Pontuchel,  or  High  Bridge, 
the  scenery  is  uncommonly  grand.  This  dell  leads  to  another,  uncommonly 
splendid  in  scenery,  belonging  to  Lord  Bagot. 

On  the  road  to  Holywell,  across  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  by  way  of 
Caerwys,  pass  on  the  r.  Plasynygreen-Plds,  1^  m.  Enter  the  grounds  of 


DENBIGH. 


241 


the  Llewenny  estate_,  ^  m.^  at  present  the  seat  of  Colonel  Hughes.  In 
720  it  was  possessed  by  Marchweithian,  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes,  or 
ancient  nobility  of  N.  Wales.  An  English  family  named  Salushury  settled 
here  sometime  before  the  reign  of  Henry  III.  ;  Sir  John  was  first  husband 
of  Catherine  Tudor,  alias  Catherine  Beram.  Her  second  alliance  was  with 
Sir  Richard  Clough.  Being  handed  to  church  by  Maurice  Wynn,  of 
Gwyder,  he  whispered  a  wish  of  bestowing  his  hand  upon  her,  rather  than 
give  her  to  his  friend.  The  fair  widow  politely  declined  the  proposal,  but 
assured  him  in  case  of  survivorship  he  might  depend  on  being  her  third  ; 
and  she  afterwards  verified  the  assurance.  Her  fourth  was  Edward 
Thelwall,  Esq.,  of  Plas-y-W ard,  whom  she  left  a  widower,  August  27.^ 
159G  3.nd  was  buried  at  Llanyfydd.  No  monument  appears  to  mark  her 
interment,  though  her  prolific  abilities  have  given  her  the  honourable 
distinction  of  Mam  Cymrei,”  mother  of  Wales.  An  excellent  \  length 
of  this  lady  is  in  the  collection  of  Lluesog  Hall,  dated  1568,  attributed  to 
Lucas  de  Heer,  from  which  an  engraving  appears  in  Yorke’s  Royal 
Tribes.’"  In  the  time  of  Charles  II.,  Llewenny  descended  to  the  Cottons, 
from  which  family  it  w^as  purchased  by  the  Right  Hon.  Thomas  Fitz- 
maurice,  uncle  to  the  Marquess  of  Lansdown,  brother  to  the  Earl  of 
Shelhourne,  and  father  of  the  late  noble  possessor.  Mr.  Fitzmaurice  in 
order  to  encourage  his  tenantry  in  Ireland,  and  promote  the  national 
manufacture  of  linens,  erected  a  bleaching  establishment  at  the  expense  of 
2000^.  in  which,  under  his  own  superior  tendence,  4000  pieces  were 
bleached  yearly.  This  erection  is  now  taken  down.  He  lived  with  the 
affected  humility  of  a  tradesman  and  the  pomp  of  a  lord.  It  is  said  he 
usually  travelled  in  his  coach  and  six  to  Chester,  and  when  there,  stood 
behind  a  counter.  Llewenny  Hall  lies  in  a  situation  very  different  from  that 
of  Gwaenynog ;  the  latter  stands  on  the  edge  of  the  vale,  and  has  the 
advantage  of  the  sinuosities  of  one  of  the  hills,  which  compose  it :  Lleweni, 
with  a  screen  of  wood  in  the  background,  lies  at  the  bottom  of  the  vale, 
having  a  large  portion  of  it  in  prospect,  of  which  Denbigh  Castle  is  the 
grand  feature.  The  land  is  mostly  rich  meadow.  The  mansion  contains  a 
fine  Gothic  hall,  suitably  fitted  up  as  an  armoury,  and  a  drawing-room 
decorated  with  gobelin  tapestry  in  the  highest  preservation,  representing  the 
chase  of  the  bear,  wolf,  &c.  The  Ferme  ornee  of  Mrs.  Lloyd,  near  the 
handsome  bridge  of  Pontriffith,  1  m.  is  an  attractive  spot,  both  as  an  elegant 
retirement,  and  as  a  specimen  of  natural  simplicity  in  design,  and  taste-^ 
fulness  in  execution.  Bodfari  to  the  1.  on  the  r.  Grove,  1  m.  Maesmynnan, 

1  m.  Caerwys,  1  m.  (See  a  continuation  of  the  road  to  Holywell  at 
Caerwys.) 

To  Llanrwst,  reach  Henllan,  2  m.,  having  passed  on  the  1.  the  Lodge, 
and  Tyddynuchaf.  Rhaiadyr-Arian,  4i  m.  across  the  Alet.  On  the  r. 
Dyfryn  Aled  to  Llansannon,  2  m.  A  descendant  of  Molwnog  is  said  to  have 
peopled  this  country  with  the  Llwyds,  anglice  Greys,  Bleyddyn  Fychan 
having  assumed  the  surname  of  Llwyd,  who  erected  a  bridge  over  the 
mountain  current.  Another  of  this  race,  having  been  dissatisfied  with  the 
conduct  of  his  tenantry,  in  a  paroxysm  of  fury,  chased  them  like  beasts  of 
prey  from  his  estates,  and  converted  the  whole  into  a  forest.  There  is,” 
says  Leland,  in  the  parish  of  Llansannan,  in  the  side  of  a  stronge  hille,  a 
place,  wher  ther  be  twenty-four  holes  or  places  in  a  roundel,  for  men  to  sit 
in,  but  som  lesse  and  sorn  bigge,  cutte  out  of  the  mayne  rok  by  mannes 
hand ;  and  there  children  and  young  men  cumming  to  seke  their  cattele 
used  to  sitte  and  play.  Sum  caulle  it  the  Rounde  Table.”  This  extra¬ 
ordinary  work  (previously  noticed)  is  said  to  be  allusive  to  an  institution  of 

R 


242 


DENBIGH. 


knighthood  by  Arthur.  Pass  a  small  lake  on  the  1.  1  m.  (leave  the  road  to 
Gwytherin,  2}  m.  on  the  1.)  Pont-carregnewydd,  across  the  Cladwin  river_, 
1  m.  cross  a  brook  at  Ty-hir,  1  ]  m.  and  another  at  Hendre,  A.  T. 
Morgan,  Esq.,  ^  m.  Another  tributary  to  the  Cladwin  intersects  the  road 
several  times  in  the  course  of  2  m.  Llanrwst,  5  m. 

On  the  way  to  Cerig-y-Drudion,  pass  through  a  comparatively  popu¬ 
lous  district,  leaving  the  direct  road  a  little  heyond  Segrwyd  to  NantUyn,  4|- 
m.  In  this  parish  was  born  David  Samwell,  before  alluded  to.  From 
Nantllyn,  the  road  proceeds  directly  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  lakes, 
Llyn-Alwen,  LlynAled,  Llyn-Moelfre,  and  forward  to  Capel  Voelas;  fall 
into  the  Cerig-y-Drudion  road,  on  the  1.  and  make  an  angle  to  the  r.  If 
this  turn  be  not  taken,  the  traveller  will  advance  to  Cyfyliog  2^  m.,  and 
further  4  m.  to  Ruthin,  Pursuing  the  Cerig-y-Drudion  road,  pass  many 
brooks,  to  the  point  where  the  Bacham  river  is  crossed,  m.;  continue 
with  this  stream  on  the  1.  for  1^  m.,  when  the  road  deviates  from  it  to  the 
r.  at  Rhosdu.  To  Enwrgarreg,  1  m.  Cross  the  Alwen  at  Pont  Alwyn, 
1  m.  Cerig-y-Drudion  2  m. 

To  St.  Asaph,  on  the  1.  are  Foxhall,and  Plas  Heaton,  J.  Eaton,  Esq.  Pen- 
caedu-green,  m.  Tyholig  on  ther.,*  pass  the  turnpike,  Fynnon  Fair,  on 
the  1.,  cross  the  Clwyd  ;  having  examined  the  fossiliferous  caves  of  Cefn, 
leave  Gwygfair,  and  Pldscoch,  on  the  1.  Maeselwy,  1^  m.  On  r.  Llannerch, 
advantageously  situated  in  a  small  but  beautiful  park,  the  lower  part  having 
its  plantations  relieved  by  a  fine  piece  of  water,  and  the  upper  commanding 
an  enchanting  prospect  along  the  vales,  flanked  by  the  Clwydian  hills.  The 
venerable  pile  is  metamorphosed  into  a  modern  villa.  Robert  Davies,  a 
naturalist,  and  able  antiquary,  possessed  Llannerch  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
17th  century.  He  left  here  a  choice  collection  of  Welsh  manuscripts. 

To  Conwy,  the  lower  road  which  runs  by  the  sea-side  from  Abergele  to 
little  Ormeshead,  is  far  more  interesting  than  the  old  mountain  road.  On 
the  latter,  pass  Henllan,  a  little  straggling  village,  with  its  church  and 
detached  tower.  The  country  is  dull  to  Bettws^  but  this  village  commands 
a  glimpse  of  the  Irish  Sea,  between  two  rocks  at  Llandulas.  In  a  small 
wooded  valley  stands  Coed-coch,  a  mansion  belonging  to  John  Lloyd  Wynne, 
Esq.  From  the  brow  of  a  noble  rock  in  the  grounds,  is  an  extensive  view 
of  the  adjacent  country  and  sea.  Tyrden  is  the  residence  of  John  Holland, 
Esq.  Near  the  village  of  Llanelian  is  the  immolating  well,  its  diameter 
about  2  ft.  6  in.,  covered  with  a  stone  arch  and  sods,  enclosed  by  a  strong 
square  wall.  Fall  into  the  Chester  road,  and  turn  to  the  r.  I  m.  to¬ 
wards  Llandrillo,  to  view  the  ruins  of  Bryn  Euryn,  once  the  residence  of 
Ednyfed  Fychan.  The  style  is  castellated,  and  its  situation  fine.  Return¬ 
ing  to  the  road  2  m,  to  Conwy  Ferry,  the  valley  soon  opens  and  discovers 
one  of  the  grandest  scenes  in  nature,  the  principal  object  being  Conwy 
Castle. 

Plants  near  Denbigh.  —  About  the  castle,  Festuca  bromoides;  in 
rough  places,  Ribes  grossularia,  and  R.  uva  crispa;  and  among  the  ruins, 
Eiigeron  acre ;  sides  of  banks  near  the  town,  Gentiana  amarilla.;  upon 
the  top  of  a  bushy  hill  on  the  n.  side  of  the  town,  Lithospermum  purpuro- 
coeruleum  ;  in  hedges  about  Garn,  A  vena  pubescens,  and  Adoxa  moschatel- 
lina  ;  in  watery  places,  ffinanthe  crocata ;  Garn  dingle,  Melica  nutans  ;  in 
dry  places,  by  the  rivulet  at  the  bottom  of  the  glade,  Saxifraga  granulata  ; 
in  a  wet  spot  near  the  bottom,  Carex  strigosa ;  near  the  rivulet,  Veronica 
montana ;  near  a  petrifying  spring,  by  the  side  of  a  rivulet  at  the  bottom 
of  the  dingle,  Asplenium  scolopendrium  ;  in  the  wood  below  Garn  coppice, 
Senecio  tenuifolius ;  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Garn,  Geranium  rotundi- 


DINAS  MOWDDWY. 


243 


folium  ;  upon  the  hill  in  front  of  Garn  House^  Trifolium  glomeratum ;  in 
Park- Pierce,  and  in  the  Crest,  Daphne  laureola;  in  the  wood  close  to  Plas- 
Newydd,  Helleborus  viridis ;  upon  Garreg-wen  rocks,  Rhamnus  catharticus, 
Turritis  hirsuta  ;  on  the  w.  side,  Cratsegus  torminalis  ;  shady  places  on  the 
w.  side,  Lathrsea  squamaria;  near  the  rivulet  on  the  w.  side,  Carex  pendula; 
at  the  bottom  of  a  field  called  Gerddi,  opposite  the  rocks,  Carex  pulicaris ; 
in  pastures  near  Rhyd-y-Cilgwyn,  2  miles  from  Ruthin,  Campanula  glo- 
merata  ;  in  dry  pastures  about  Deunant,  between  Denbigh  and  Llansannon, 
Spergula  subulata.  By  the  Llyfni,  which  runs  from  Llyniau  Nantlle  into 
the  sea,  about  half  way  from  Llandwrog  to  Clynog,  grows  the  Pulmonaria 
maritima. 

Hedd  Molwynog,  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes,  lived  at  Uwch  Aled  in  Den¬ 
bighshire  ;  his  lands  and  lordships  were  Llanfair-Tal  Haiarn,  Dyffryn 
Elwy,  and  Nant-Aled. — Camb.  Reg.  i.  150. 

Angling  Stations, —  Llangerniew,  8  m. ;  admirably  situated,  having 
several  small  streams  in  the  neighbourhood.  Bodfari,  4  m.;  excellent 
salmon  and  trout;  Pentre-Voelas,  l6  m.,  is  an  excellent  station;  Towyn 
Abergelan,  12  m. 


To  Ruthin,  8  miles.  Pennant;  Wyndham  ; 
Gilpin  ;  Aikin  ;  Hutton  ;  Pugh. 

Holywell,  14  miles.  Warner. 

Caerwys,  7?  miles.  Wyndham’s  2d  Tour. 

St.  Asaph,  6  miles.  Skrine. 


Back  to  St.  Asaph,  and  skirted  the  coast  to  Llan¬ 
dudno.  Gilpin. 

Back  to  St.  Asaph.  Bingley. 

To  Mold,  16  miles. 


DINAS  MOWDDWY. 

From  Mallwyd,  1^  miles.  Hutton  ;  Warner.  I  From  Machynlleth,  14 miles.  Skrine. 

Bala,  174 miles.  Pennant;  Evans.  |  Back  from  Mall wyd.  Pennant. 

DINAS  MOWDDWY  is  an  incorporated  market  town,  in  the  parish  of 
Mallwyd,  county  of  Merioneth.  It  is  pleasantly  situated,  at  the  junction 
of  three  vales,  formed  by  ranges  of  lofty  mountains,  on  the  shelf  of  a  rock 
beneath  Moel  Dinas,  on  the  banks  of  Afon  Geryst,  where  it  empties  itself 
into  Afon  Dyfi,  and  forms  a  very  fine  angling  station.  Mr.  Hutton  de¬ 
scribes  his  visit  as  follows:  — Having  understood  that  this  place  held  a  consi¬ 
derable  eminence  in  the  comparison  of  Welsh  towns,  and  the  property  of 
the  ancient  family  of  Mytton  ;  that  it  was  one  of  the  five  lordships  in  Wales 
which  were  independent  manors,  and  exempted  from  tribute  to  the  prince; 
that  it  held  a  government  within  itself,  consisting  of  a  mayor  and  alderman, 
with  all  the  magnificent  insignia  and  ornamental  trappings  of  a  corporation, 
I  wished  to  visit  this  favoured  place,  but  my  way  did  not  lie  through  it. 
Being  detained,  however,  at  Mallwyd  by  the  rain,  and  Dinas  Mowddwy 
distant  only  m.,  I  watched  the  opportunity  of  a  fair  gleam,  left  the  com¬ 
pany  I  had  accidentally  met  at  the  inn  to  their  wine  and  their  conversation, 
and  stole  a  visit  to  this  important  place.  The  situation  of  Dinas  Mowddwy 
is  romantic,  singular,  and  beautiful,  upon  a  small  flat  made  by  nature,  and 
improved  by  art,  on  the  declivity  of  a  mountain  prodigiously  elevated,  and 
nearly  perpendicular,  on  the  1.  descending  to  the  town  ;  and  on  the  r.  con¬ 
tinuing  the  same  steep  down  to  the  river  Dyfi,  which  washes  its  foot.  The 
road  winds  round  the  hill  in  the  shape  of  a  bow.  It  appears  to  the  observer 
a  town  suspended  upon  the  side  of  a  mountain.  Curiosity  led  me  to  count 
the  houses,  which  were  45.  One  of  these,  by  far  the  best,  is  worth,  at  a 
fair  rent,  perhaps  50^.  per  annum.  In  most  of  them  I  perceived  that  the 
inhabitants  could  not  injure  themselves  by  falling  down  stairs.  Although  in 
England  I  appeared  like  other  men,  yet  at  Dinas  Mowddwy  I  stood  single. 

R  2 


244 


DINAS  MOWDDWy. 


The  people  eyed  me  as  a  phenomenon,  their  countenances  being  mixed  with 
fear  and  inquiry.  Perhaps  they  took  me  for  an  inspector  of  taxes;  they 
could  not  take  me  for  a  window-peeper,  for  there  were  scarcely  any  to  peep 
at,  and  the  few  I  saw  were  in  that  shattered  state  which  proved  there  was 
no  glazier  in  the  place.  Many  houses  were  totally  without  glass.  Ambition 
here  seems  wholly  excluded.  The  dress  of  the  inhabitants  changes  not. 
It  is  made  for  use,  not  show.  That  of  the  softer  sex,  I  was  told,  is  a  flannel 
chemise.  I  did  not  see  the  smallest  degree  of  smartness  in  the  apparel, 
even  of  the  young  females.  I  have  reason  to  think  their  style  of  living  is 
as  plain  as  their  dress,  for  a  swelling  in  front,  from  luxury,  is  rarely  seen. 
One  of  the  curiosities  I  saw  was  a  goat  feeding,  much  at  ease,  upon  the 
ridge  of  a  house.  Perhaps  the  people  within  did  not  fare  much  better  than 
the  goat  without.  Returning,  well  pleased  with  my  visit,  I  remarked  to 
my  landlord  at  Mallwyd,  a  civil  intelligent  man,  that  I  could  not  conceive 
the  whole  property  of  the  united  inhabitants  of  this  celebrated  town  exceeded 
600/.  "  I  can  tell  you  to  a  trifle/  said  he,  ‘  for  I  know  every  one  of  them 

well.’  After  a  short  pause  he  replied,  ‘'It  does  not  exceed  240/.  !  ’  If  care 
be  the  concomitant  of  wealth,  these  people  must  be  happy  ;  and  their  cir¬ 
cumscribed  style  of  existence  seems  to  declare  it.  I  saw  neither  a  beggar 
nor  a  person  in  rags.”  At  I2idiart-y-Bafvon,  the  Baron’s  Gate/’  in  1555, 
a  cruel  murder  was  committed  by  a  banditti  of  felons  and  outlaws  that  over¬ 
ran  this  country  after  the  wars  of  the  houses  of  York  and  Lancaster,  and 
committed  every  possible  outrage  in  defiance  of  the  civil  power,  till  a  com¬ 
mission  was  granted  to  John  Wynn  ap  Meredydd,  of  Gwydir,  Esq.,  and 
Lewis  Owen  of  Llyn,  near  Dolgelly,  Esq.,  Baron  of  the  Exchequer  of 
N.  Wales,  to  raise  a  body  of  stout  men,  who,  on  a  Christmas-eve,  seized  about 
eighty  of  them,  who  received  their  just  punishments.  Among  them  were 
two  sons  of  a  woman,  who  earnestly  intreated  Owen  to  pardon  one  of  them, 
but  he  refused.  The  mother,  enraged,  bared  her  bosom,  exclaiming,  these 
yellow  breasts  have  given  suck  to  those  who  shall  wash  their  hands  in  your 
blood.”  This  threat  was  fatally  put  in  execution,  for  the  surviving  banditti 
watched  an  opportunity  of  entrapping  him.  His  road  from  Montgomery  lay 
through  the  thick  woods  of  Dugaed  Mowddwy.  They  intercepted  his  passage 
by  trunks  of  trees,  and,  after  discharging  a  shower  of  arrows,  rushed  upon 
their  victim,  whom  they  assassinated,  and  left  his  body  covered  with  upwards 
of  thirty  wounds. 

Mr.  Pennant  says  that  Dinas  Moddwy  is  governed  by  a  mayor,  alderman, 
recorder,  and  several  burgesses  ;  that  the  mayor  tries  criminals ;  and  the 
recorder,  in  the  absence  of  the  lord,  matters  of  property  not  exceeding  40^. 
That  they  still  preserve  the  insignia  of  power  ;  the  mace,  standard  measure, 
stocks,  whipping-post,  and  tne  vag-vawr,  or  great  fetter.  But  he  dees  not 
say  when,  or  by  whom,  this  charter  was  granted  ;  nor  how  long  its  inhabit¬ 
ants  have  been  thus  enfranchised.  The  market  is  on  Saturday.  Fairs  are 
held  here  on  Friday  before  Palm  Sunday,  June  2.,.  Sept.  10.,  Oct.  22.,  and 
Nov.  13.  There  is  a  place  of  worship  for  Independents. 

On  the  road  to  Dolgelly  is  a  grand  pass  through  the  openings  of  the 
Cader  chain  ;  which,  comprehending  the  Arrans  and  the  Ai'renigs,  forms 
nearly  a  right  angle  with  the  Ferwyn.  It  winds  delightfully  beside  the 
rude  mountain  Craig-y-‘Gicyni,  or  the  'White  Rock,  which  forms  a  lofty 
wall  on  the  r.,  while  that  on  the  1.  is  of  various  slopes,  with  here  and 
there  a  miserable  cottage  peeping  in  the  different  directions  of  th  cwms; 
the  Geryst  widely  flowing  over  a  rocky  bed  in  the  vale.  Near  the  top  of 
Craig-y~Gwinij  are  some  deserted  lead-mines. 

About  3  m.  from  Dinas  leave  the  vast  sheep  farm  of  Pennant-igi-isav,  a 


DOLGELLY. 


245 


deep  bottom  environed  on  three  sides  by  vast  mountains  forming  a  grand 
theatre.  Ascend  a  steep  hill ;  on  the  1.  is  Bwlch  Oerdd,  before  us  a  vast 
extent  of  dreary  slope,  bounded  by  mountains,  among  which  is  Cader 
Idris.  This  pass  was  noted  for  having  been  one  of  the  three  places  where, 
after  the  death  of  Glyndwr,  the  principal  inhabitants  of  several  districts 
assembled  to  form  compacts  to  enforce  justice  without  any  legal  sanction, 
despising  the  merciless  laws  of  Henry  IV.  against  the  Welsh.  The  con¬ 
vention  determined  to  decide  on  all  wrongs  committed  before  and  after  the 
wars,  but  not  during  the  time  of  conflict.  Every  one  was  to  have  his  goods 
and  lands  restored  which  had  been  taken  from  him  by  force,  without  lawsuit. 
Goods  detained  after  this  law  were  deemed  stolen;  with  various  other  matters. 

From  the  lower  ground,  though  still  elevated,  appears  Cader  Idris,  on 
the  1.,  which  had  been  before  concealed  by  intervening  masses.  From 
this  sovereign  of  mountains  the  lower  subjects  seem  to  retire  from  his  feet. 
The  road  next  descends  to  Dolgelly,  which  opens  to  view  at  the  distance 
of  a  mile. 

The  high  road  proceeds  with  the  Geryst,  on  the  r.  a  tributary  to  the 
Dyfi  ;  reach  Craig -y-Pistyll  on  the  1.  where  cross  the  Maesglas,  li  m.;  fur¬ 
ther  is  a  house  on  the  r.  called  Pennant,  where  a  tributary  to  the  Geryst  is 
crossed,  which  runs  upon  the  1.  from  its  soruce,  at  the  distance  of  in.  3 
m.  from  Pennant  is  a  house  called  Tyn-twU ;  1  m.  further  cross  a  brook 
on  the  r.  of  which,  at  a  little  distance,  is  Caer-y-nwch.  (At  the  distances  of 
i  m.  from  each,  cross  two  other  small  tributaries.  On  the  L  distant  1  m. 
lies  Caer  Saim,)  Holgellly,  2i  m. 

To  Bala  the  road  passes  through  Llan-y^Mowddy  oyer  Bwlch-y-Groes, 
and  down  the  hills  of  Bwlch-y-Pawl  and  Rhyd-y-Bont,  along  the  s.  e.  side 
of  the  lake  of  Bala. 

On  the  great  road  to  Machynlleth,  pass  to  Mallwyd,  where  is  an  inn 
li  m.  Pass  with  the  Afon  Dyfl  on  the  r. ;  Ty-mawr,  on  the  1.,  and  Aher- 
mynach  and  Aberangel  on  the  r.  Dol-y-CaroUwyn,  Tyn-y-Rhbs,  Cwm^ 
llyne,  Aherhiriarth,  to  Cemmaes,  4i  m.  Pass  Cemmaes-hychan,  Pont 
Afon  Tvjymyn,  Pen-y-Graig,  Croft  and  Aber-gwidol,  to  Penegoes,  5^  m, 
Machynlleth,  1  m.  5  fur. 


To  Mallwyd,  mile.  Hutton  ;  Skrine. 
Dolgelly,  10  miles.  Evans. 

Bala,  17^  miles.  Warner. 

Llanfair,  SO  miles. 


To  Mallwyd,  and  back  again  ;  hence  to  Dolgelly, 
Id  miles.  Pennant. 

Welshpool,  27  miles. 

Machynlleth,  14  miles^. 


DOLGELLY. 


From  Dinas  Mowddwy,  10  miles.  Pennant. 
Barmouth,  10  miles.  Bingley. 

Towyn,  17  miles.  Aikin. 

Back  from  Cader  Idris.  Aikin. 

From  Machynlleth,  over  Cader  Idris,  17  miles. 
Warner  ;  the  direct  road  is  14  miles. 
Barmouth,  Warner’s  2d  walk,  12  miles ; 
the  direct  road. 


From  Machynlleth, by  Llyn-trigraeanen 
Wyndham. 

Festiniog,  18  miles. 

Tan-y-Bwlch,  18  miles.  Skrine. 
Maentwrog,  18  miles. 

Mallwyd,  13|  miles.  Pugh. 


DOLGELLY,  or  Dolgellau,  (more  properly  from  Dol,  the  dale,  and 
gellau,  hazle,  the  dale  ofthehazle,  pronounced  Dol-geth’-le)  in  the  hundred 
of  Tal-y-Bont,  Merionethshire,  is  the  principal  market-town  in  this  county. 
It  is  situated  in  a  narrow  vale,  at  the  n.  skirts  of  Cader  Idris,  and  upon 
the  river  Gwynion  or  Wnion,  a  branch  of  the  Mawddach,  which  enters  the 
sea.  It  is  evident  the  Romans  did  not  form  the  ground  plan  of  this  town, 
for  the  houses  stand  in  the  same  order  as  the  Tartars  pitch  their  tents, 
when  returning  from  a  predatory  excursion.  The  resident  population  of 

R  3 


246 


DOLGELLY. 


the  parish  in  1801  was  29^9,  in  1821,  3588,  in  1831,4087.  The  Church, 
dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  is  a  neat  edifice  of  limestone,  having  a  hand¬ 
some  tower  and  large  nave,  in  the  Grecian  style.  The  seats  are  forms,  and 
the  floor  is  paved  with  limestone  flags,  a  circumstance  uncommon  in  W ales. 
The  ceiling  is  impanelled.  Within  is  an  antique  monument  of  an  armed 
knight,  with  a  dog  at  his  feet,  and  a  lion  passant,  guardant  upon  his  shield, 
on  which  is  inscribed,  Hie  jacet  Maurice,  filius  Ynyr  Vychan,’"  ancestor  of 
the  present  Sir  Robert  Williames  Vaughan,  of  Nannau,  near  this  town. 
Owen  Glyndwr  assembled  his  parliament  at  Dolgelly  in  1404,  when  he 
formed  an  alliance  with  Charles,  King  of  France,  which  runs  thus  in  the 
true  regal  style  : — Owinus  Dei  gratia  prin ceps  Wallise;  ”  and  concludes 
Datum  apud  Dolguelli,  10  die  mensis  Maii  mcoc.  quarto  et  principatus 
nostri  quarto.”  A  handsome  monument  has  recently  been  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Baron  Richards,  native  of  this  parish.  In  the  civil  wars  between 
Charles  1.  and  his  parliament,  about  100  of  the  king’s  troops  attempted  to 
raise  a  fortification  about  the  town,  to  defend  it  against  the  parliamentary 
forces,  but  were  prevented  by  Mr.  Edward  Vaughan,  who  at  the  head  of  a 
small  party  completely  routed  them,  and  took  their  captain  prisoner.  Some 
Roman  coins  have  been  found  at  a  well  in  this  vicinity  called  Fynnon 
Vawr,  bearing  this  inscription,  imp.  c^sar  traian,  which  sanction  the 
opinion  that  Dolgelly  was  known  to  the  Romans.  The  principal  Inn  is  the 
Golden  Lion,  where  guides  to  Cader  Idris  may  be  obtained.  The  Ship  and 
Angel  afford  also  good  accommodation.  The  Market  House  is  a  low 
square  building,  and  the  Town  Hall  is  scarcely  distinguishable.  Its 
manufactory  of  Welsh  flannels  and  kerseymeres  employs  a  great  number  of 
hands.  The  kind  of  woollen  cloth  called  Gweu,  or  Webs,  also  occupies 
the  inhabitants  of  this  neighbourhood.  The  County  Gaol  is  a  semicircular 
erection  of  stone,  raised  in  1811,  at  the  expense  of  50007  The  principal 
structure  is  the  County  Hall,  a  neat  stone  edifice,  erected  in  1825.  In 
the  hall  is  a  splendid  portrait  of  Sir  R.  W.  Vaughan,  Bart.,  painted  by 
Shee. 

The  Assizes  are  held  here  and  at  Bala,  alternately.  The  Fairs  occur 
on  May  11.,  July  4.,  Sept.  20.,  Oct.  9.j»  Nov.  22.,  andDec.  l6.  The  market- 
days  are  Tuesday  and  Saturday.  Here  is  a  bridge  of  several  arches  over 
the  Wnion,  pronounced  oonion  The  Free  School  admits  22  poor  boys  of 
the  parish. 

The  Agricultural  Society  at  Dolgelly  was  established  under  the  patronage 
of  Sir  R.  W. Vaughan,  Bart.,  M.P. 

This  town  is  seen  to  the  greatest  advantage  from  the  Machynlleth  road, 
at  the  distance  of  about  2  m.;  like  many  Welsh  towns,  it  is  only  pleasing 
at  a  distance.  The  prospects  from  the  Bowling  Green  are  singularly  fine. 
The  threatening  summit  of  Cader  Idris,  the  northern  ascent  to  which  ap¬ 
pears  nearly  perpendicular,  lends  its  wonderful  display  of  mountain  sublimity, 
while  a  train  of  subordinate  inequalities  stretch  their  indignant  eminences 
along  its  base.  This  gigantic  mountain  is  generally  ascended  hence. 
Guides  may  be  had  from  Dolgelly  to  this  sublime  elevation,  which,  for 
height,  abrupt  and  tremendous  precipices,  lakes,  and  extensive  prospects, 
may  vie  with,  if  not  surpass,  Snowdon.  The  summit  of  Cader  Idris  is 
about  6  m.  distant.  Bryn  Adda  is  in  a  beautiful  sylvan  spot.  W. 
Anwyl,  Esq. 

Plants. — Near  Dolgelly  grow,  in  mountainous  pastures,  Meum  Atha. 
manta,  Empetrum  nigrum  ;  in  peat  bogs,  Rubus  Chamsemorus  ;  upon  dry 
places  in  the  mountains.  Lycopodium  clavatum  ;  upon  old  walls  and  moist 
rocks  in  various  parts  of  the  county.  Cotyledon  Umbilicus ;  between  Dol- 


DOLGELLY. 


247 


gelly  and  Llyn  Arran_,  about  i  m.  from  the  pool^  Genista  pilosa  ;  near 
the  cataract  at  Dol-y-melynllyn,  distant  6  ra.^  Orobussylvaticus;  Myrica  gale 
is  common  in  bogs. 

Sir  R.  Hoare  asserts  that  he  knows  of  no  place  in  the  Principality, 
whence  so  many  pleasing  and  interesting  excursions  may  be  made,  and 
where  nature  bears  so  rich,  varied,  and  grand  an  aspect  as  at  Dolgelly. 
(See  his  Giraldus,  ii.  385.) 

The  excursions  mostly  taken  are  to  Machynlleth,  the  Waterfalls,  Bar¬ 
mouth,  Cader  Idris,  Dinas  Mowddwy,  thence  to  Bala  over  the  mountains, 
and  back  through  the  vale  in  which  the  Dee  rises.  The  scenery  on  the 
way  to  Barmouth  is  admirable.  The  Rev.  R.  H.  Newell,  whose  discrimin¬ 
ation  as  a  landscape  painter  is  indisputable,  was  delighted  with  this  excur¬ 
sion.  He  thought  it  a  continued  series  of  pictures.  The  walk  should  be 
taken  when  the  tide  is  up.  {^Scenery  of  Wales,  p.  122.) 

The  Waterfalls  in  this  vicinity  form  an  important  attraction  ;  to 
these  we  advance  by  Llannilltyd,  About  6  m.  on  this  route  a  gate  on  the 
1.  after  we  cross  a  bridge  over  the  furious  Gamlan,  leads  up  to  Dol~y-melyn- 
llyn  Fall,  or  Rhaiadyr  Du  ,  the  Black  Cataract,”  a  name  which  should 
not  be  mistaken  for  another  fall  to  the  r.  of  the  road  between  Beddgelart, 
and  Harlech.  The  object  of  our  present  curiosity  is  in  the  grounds  of 
W.  A.Maddocks,  Esq.,  at  Dol-y~melynllyn,^‘  the  Holme  of  the  Yellow  Pool.” 
The  river  Camlan  rises  4  m.  above  this  cascade  in  Llyn-Ybi,  and  follows 
an  irregular  course  among  rocks  and  bushes,  till  it  reaches  this  place,  where 
it  descends  60  feet.  Rushing  hence  from  its  sullen  bed  with  great  impe¬ 
tuosity  below  Pont-ar- Gamlan,  it  joins  the  Mawddach. 

This  cataract  is  composed  of  four  distinct  falls,  two  of  which  form  the 
principal  parts.  The  higher  and  more  distant  one  is  divided  by  a  rock.  Of 
the  two  smaller  the  first  is  broken  into  numerous  arched  cascades  ;  the 
second  is  indented  by  opposite  currents,  and  these  are  connected  by  a  smooth 
horizontal  sheet.  The  fall  is  about  60  feet  high.  The  torrent  rolls  into  a 
small  deep  basin,  where  it  is  dashed  along  a  rugged  channel,  and  falls  into 
the  Mawddach,  at  no  great  distance.  Mr.  Maddocks  made  a  very  good 
footpath,  both  to  the  bottom  and  upper  part  of  this  cataract,  kindly  affording 
the  traveller  every  possible  means  of  seeing  it  to  advantage. 

Regaining  the  road,  cross  the  river  at  Pont-ar- gai'va,  and  mount  a  slate 
hill.  A  little  to  the  r.  on  the  summit  is  a  farm-house,  where  may  be  had 
a  guide,  an  acquisition  highly  necessary  in  visiting  the  other  two  waterfalls. 
After  crossing  the  summit  of  the  hill  ^  m.,  descend  to  the  glen  where 
the  two  rivers  unite.  An  alpine  bridge  formed  by  the  trunk  of  a  tree 
crosses  the  stream.  Pistyll-y- Caine  is  by  far  the  highest  and  most  mag¬ 
nificent  cataract  of  the  three.  A  narrow  stream  rushes  down  a  vast  rock, 
at  least  150  feet  high,  the  horizontal  strata  of  which  run  in  irregular  steps 
through  its  whole  breadth,  and  form  a  mural  front.  These  indeed  are  so 
regular,  as  in  a  great  measure  to  spoil  its  picturesque  beauty,  unless  hidden 
by  a  volume  of  water  much  greater  than  usual.  Immense  fragments  of 
broken  rock,  scattered  around  in  every  direction,  at  the  foot  of  the  fall, 
communicate  a  pleasing  effect.  And  the  agreeable  mixture  of  tints  of  the 
dark  oak  and  birch,  with  the  yellower  and  fading  elm,  formed  a  scene  highly 
pleasing.  About  200  yards  distant  is  Rhaiadyr -y -Mawddach.  This 
stream  is  precipitated  down  a  rock  between  50  and  60  ft,  in  height,  the 
strata  of  which,  lying  in  parallel  lines  several  degrees  inclined  from  the 
horizon,  give  the  scene  a  singularly  distorted  appearance.  The  stream  is 
thrice  broken  in  its  descent,  and  the  basin  into  which  it  is  precipitated  is 
very  large.  The  rocks  and  trees  form  an  amphitheatre  around,  the 

R  4 


248 


DOLGELLY. 


foreground  being  finely  broken  by  large  pieces  of  rock.  The  upper  part  of 
the  fall  is  hidden  by  intervening  clefts^  but  on  crossing  the  stream  it  then 
appears  complete  and  picturesque. 

From  this  fall  descend  into  the  road  again,  and  proceed  to  the  village 
of  Traws-fynydd,  where  catch  a  glimpse  of  Snowdon,  and  thence  proceed  to 
the  inn  at  Maentwrog. 

From  Llanilltyd,  on  the  way  to  the  Waterfalls,  the  remains  of  Cymmer 
Abbey,  called  by  the  Welsh  Y- Tanner,  mny  be  examined.  According  to  the 
Notitia  Monastica  of  Bishop  Tanner,  this  was  a  Cistercian  establishment, 
founded  by  Llywelyn,  son  of  Gervase,  about  the  year  1200.  It  was 
dissolved  by  statute  27  Henry  VIII.  According  to  Mr.  Robert  Vaughan, 
it  was  founded  by  Meredith  and  Gryffyth,  lords  of  Merioneth,  and  sons  of 
Cynan  ap  Owain  Gwynedd,  prince  of  N.  Wales.  Only  a  part  of  the  church 
of  this  monastery  remains,  the  refectory  and  abbot’s  lodging  being  in¬ 
cluded  in  the  adjoining  farm-house.  The  e.  end  is  the  most  perfect,  and 
through  its  thick  covering  of  ivy  appear  three  small  lancet  windows. 
Against  the  s.  wall  are  a  few  small  Gothic  pillars  and  arches  ;  in  this 
part  of  the  building  there  has  also  been  a  semicircular  door  opposite  to  two 
small  arches,  and  near  them  is  a  mutilated  stone  representing  the  head  of  a 
human  figure.  The  space  of  ground  which  these  walls  enclose  is  very 
inconsiderable,  and  from  the  great  plainness  of  the  structure  it  will  scarcely 
form  a  picture  from  any  point  of  view  whatever  ;  yet  one  has  been  given  in 
Moore’s  Monastic  Remains,  p.  109*  Though  it  is  little  more  than  a  mile 
distant,  near  the  bank  of  the  Mawddach,  it  was  some  time  since  scarcely 
known  in  Dolgelly.  [See  Llantlltyd.] 

The  approach  to  Barmouth  was  formerly  over  a  prodigious  mountain, 
surmounted  with  great  difficulty,  and  passed  with  apprehensions  of  destruc¬ 
tion.  The  magistracy  of  the  county,  however,  bent  on  improvement,  formed 
a  road  out  of  steep  rocks  jutting  from  the  sea,  guarding  it  with  a  wall.  The 
labour  was  astonishing,  the  cost  two  guineas  a  yard.  It  is  now  a  most 
charming  road,  exhibiting  a  romantic  boldness  of  scenery.  A  stone  bridge 
of  several  arches  conducts  the  traveller  over  the  Wnion,  which  here  flows 
some  hundred  feet  wide.  On  the  r.,  1  m.  distant  from  the  town,  on  the  bank 
of  the  river,  are  the  ruins  of  Cymmer  Abbey. 

Two  m,  from  Dolgelly  is  Nannau,  once  the  residence  of  Hawel  Sele,  an 
inveterate  enemy  of  Owain  Glyndwr.  It  is  the  ancient  seat  of  the  family 
of  Nannau,  but  now  the  hospitable  mansion  of  Sir  Robert  Williames 
Vaughan,  Bart.,  once  M.P.  for  the  county.  The  road  from  Dolgelly  is  by 
a  continued  ascent,  and  the  house  stands  upon  very  high  ground.  It  was 
rebuilt  by  its  present  respected  possessor,  and  is  a  substantial  and  elegant 
structure,  being  the  highest  elevation  of  any  gentleman’s  residence  in  Britain. 
The  park  is  well  wooded,  and  remarkable  for  a  very  small  kind  of  deer. 
In  the  garden  was  a  venerable  oak,  in  the  last  stage  of  decay,  measuring 
27|ft.  in  girth,  called  Derwen  Cenbraen-yr-Ellyll,  the  Hollow  Oak  of 
Demons.”  In  the  upper  part  of  the  park  are  the  remains  of  a  British  post, 
called  Moel-yr-thrwm,  the  Hill  of  Oppression.”  The  traveller  will  have 
here  an  opportunity  of  examining  nature  in  her  vagaries,  exhibited  in  the 
before-mentioned  celebrated  descent  of  the  Caine  and  the  Mawddach  ;  but 
in  dry  weather  several  of  these  falls  vanish,  and  the  spot  appears  to  great 
disadvantage.  Proceeding  northward,  up  Glyn  Maw,  at  Dol-y-melynllyn, 
6  m.  from  Dolgelly,  is  a  residence  of  Sir  Robert ;  here,  turning  to  the  1. 
up  a  steep  acclivity,  the  eye  meets  the  furious  Garva,  a  wide  mountain 
torrent.  (See  the  preceding  description.)  The  magnificent  object  of  Pistyll 
Caine  appears  to  the  greatest  advantage  from  below,  by  crossing  a  truly 


DOLGELLY. 


249 


alpine  bridge  formed  of  the  trunk  of  an  immense  oak^  laid  from  rock  to 
rock^  over  a  narrow  dark  chasm.  The  view  from  this  point  cannot  be  sur¬ 
passed.  Retiring  from  these  delightful  scenes^  the  traveller  regains  the  road 
to  Llanilltyd  turnpike,  where  the  tide  flows  to  a  considerable  height.  Brigs 
are  built  here  of  200  tons  burden.  From  Llanilltyd  to  Barmouth,  are  10  m. 
of  excellent  road,  winding  round  the  hill  opposite  to  Dolgelly,  and  passing 
on  a  shelf  of  rock,  through  hanging  woods,  across  a  handsome  stone  bridge 
over  the  Mawddach,  it  joins  the  Wnion.  The  expanse  of  water  here  is 
considerable  at  high  tide,  having  the  appearance  of  a  large  lake,  enveloped 
by  mountains.  The  vivid  summit  of  Cader  Idris  now  assumes  the  features 
of  a  volcano.  The  road  follows  the  inequalities  of  the  shore,  till  it  occupies 
a  narrow  shelf  of  the  perpendicular  rock  of  Barmouth.  Here  is  a  fine  view 
of  the  river  falling  into  the  beautiful  bay  of  Cardigan.  Relating  to  this 
road  the  panegyric  of  Mr.  Pratt  thus  descants  :  —  Its  beauties  are  so  mani¬ 
fold  and  extraordinary,  that  they  literally  ^  beggar  description.^  New  pastures 
of  the  most  exuberant  fertility,  new  woods  rising  in  the  majesty  of  foliage, 
the  road  itself  curving  into  numberless  unexpected  directions;  at  one  moment 
shut  into  a  verdant  recess,  so  contracted  that  there  seems  neither  carriage 
nor  bridle- way  out  of  it;  at  another  the  azure  expanse  of  the  main  ocean 
filling  your  eye  !  On  one  side  rocks  glitter  in  all  the  colours  of  that  beauty 
which  constitutes  the  sublime,  and  of  a  height  which  diminishes  the  wild 
herds  that  browse,  or  look  down  upon  you  from  the  summit,  where  the 
largest  animal  appears  insignificantly  minute.  On  the  other  hand  are  plains, 
villas,  cottages,  venerable  halls,  or  copses,  with  whatever  tends  to  form  that 
milder  grace  which  belongs  to  the  beautiful.” 

To  Bala  we  follow  the  course  of  the  Wnion,  about  9  the  road  pass¬ 
ing  along  the  sides  of  wooded  hills.  At  5  m.  walk  down  to  a  wooden  bridge, 
above  which  the  river  forms  a  beautiful  cascade.  At  8  m.  we  reach  Drws- 
y-nant,  ‘‘  the  Door  of  the  Valley,”  where  is  the  sign  of  Howel  Dha.  The 
country  hence  assumes  a  ruder  form  ;  the  river  is  quitted,  and  the  road  runs 
upon  the  sides  of  lofty  barren  mountains.  Pass  over  a  long  but  gentle  ele¬ 
vation,  and  reach  Bala  Lake ;  then,  following  the  n.  side,  on  the  lower  end, 
we  pass  Llan-y-cil,  the  parish  church  of  Bala. 

From  Dolgelly  to  Bala  Mr.  Skrine  pursued  the  course  of  the  Afon,  and 
after  traversing  some  high  grounds,  he  gained  a  view  of  the  lake  of  Bala, 
and  coasted  the  northern  shore  to  the  town,  situated  at  the  e.  extremity. 

To  Harlech,  proceed  to  Llanilltyd,  1^  m.  (where  is  a  road,  on  the  r., 
to  Caernarvon,  by  way  of  Trawfyrinydd,  Maentwrog,  and  Beddgelart;  and  on 
the  1.  to  Barmouth,  10  m.),  continue  on  the  banks  of  the  Mawddach  river, 
for  3.7  m.,  to  Pont  ddu,  where  quit  the  Barmouth  road,  turning  to  the  r., 
to  Pont-hirgwm,  m.,  leaving  Hendre  Forrion;  on  the  r.,  1  m.  beyond, 
turn  to  the  r.  to  Llanenddwyn,  on  the  1.  to  Tal-y-fynnoneu,  6^  m.  (on 
the  1.  Fron-y-foel-isaf,  a  little  further  Cae-yr-y-fynon,  and  Fron-y-foel- 
uchaf  on  the  r.  A  little  further  is  a  road  on  the  1.  to  Llanenddwyn,  2  m. 
on  the  r.  to  Trawsfynnydd,  about  14  m.).  Lampeter,  2|  m.  Having  passed 
the  estuary  of  the  Bychan,  Llandanwg  on  the  r. ;  Llamfair,  1|  m. ;  Har¬ 
lech,  1  m. 

To  Towyn  the  road  skirts  the  northern  foot  of  Cader  Idris.  The  wild 
precipices  of  this  gigantic  mountain  on  the  one  hand,  and  craggy  tops  of 
inferior  elevations  on  the  other,  are  the  only  features  in  view  for  some  miles, 
when  the  road  afterwards  lies  over  the  undulations  of  boggy  mountains, 
without  a  trace  of  cultivation  or  inhabitant. 

To  Machynlleth,  14  m.  Five  m.  to  Llyn  Tri-graeanen,  on  the  1. ;  2  m. 
to  a  small  public-house  (the  Blue  Lion),  whence  a  guide  may  be  had  to  the 


250 


DOLGELLY. 


summit  of  Cader  Idris.  4  m.  further^  see  Llyn  Mwyngil,  at  a  distance  on 
the  r. ;  3  m.  cross  the  Dyfi ;  1  m.  Machynlleth. 

To  Maentwrog,  2  m._,  pass  near  the  Ship-yard_,  and  catch  an  excellent  view 
of  Cader  Idris.  Hengwrt,  a  handsome  old  mansion  belonging  to  the  Vaughan. 
Robert,  the  celebrated  antiquarian,  who  died  l667,  once  resided  here, 
Llanilltyd,  I5  m.  (After  crossing  the  Mawddach,  keep  on  the  r.  nearly 
4  m.)  Dol-y-melynllyn,  m. ;  beyond  is  Pont-ar-Garfa  and  Pont  Eden. 
Cefn-DeuddwVj  on  the  r.,  l^m.  Near  are  the  two  great  [waterfalls  of  the 
Mawddach  and  Caine  rivers.  Trawsynydd,  m.  Maentwrog,  5  m. 
[See  Llanilltyd.] 

To  Cader  Idris  near  Llyn  trisgrasenyn  the  prospect  began  to  improve,  and 
entering  a  long  straight  hollow,  Llyn  Mingil,  “  the  Lake  of  the  Pleasant 
Retreat,”  some  distant  hills  close  the  vale ;  here  occurs  Nymphaea  alba. 
The  elevation  of  Aran  Benllyn  from  Dolgelly  is  27^)0  ft.;  that  of  Cader 
Idris  is  9O  ft-  higher. 

An  EXCURSION  was  made  hence  by  Mr.  Pennant,  chiefly  on  the  road  to 
Festiniog,  visiting  first  Nannau,  and  then  returning  to  Dolgelly. 

About  1  m.  beyond  this  town  may  be  seen  a  beautiful  view  of  three  valleys, 
finely  embellished  with  seats,  and  watered  by  the  junction  of  the  Wnion  and 
the  Mawddach.  Instead  of  taking  the  direct  track  to  Barmouth,  visit  the  cas¬ 
cades  of  Glyn-maw.  Cross  the  bridge  of  Llanilltyd.  Below  is  a  turbery ; 
on  the  1.  is  the  church,  and  on  the  r.,  in  a  rich  flat,  stand  the  remains  of 
Cymmer  Abbey,  so  called  from  its  position,  near  the  confluence  of  two  streams. 
Part  of  the  Church  is  still  to  be  seen  ;  the  great  Hall  and  part  of  the  Ab¬ 
bot’s  lodgings,  now  form  a  farm-house.  Continue  upon  a  bank  high  above 
the  Mawddach.  About  5  or  6  m.  from  Dolgelly,  at  Dol-y-melynllyn,  Mr. 
Pennant  deviated  in  order  to  meet  the  furious  torrent  Gamlan.  It  falls, 
with  short  interruptions,  from  rock  to  rock,  for  a  very  considerable  space, 
amidst  woods  and  bushes,  till  it  reaches  a  lofty  precipice.  Thence  it  is 
precipitated  into  a  black  pool  shaded  by  trees  ;  and  hence  Rhaiadyr-du, 

the  Black  Cataract.”  Cross  Pont-ar -Gamlan,  below  which  the  stream 
falls  into  the  Mawddach.  Not  far  hence,  the  junction  of  the  Mawddach 
and  Eden  forms  another  grand  scene.  Begin  a  considerable  ascent,  and 
find  upon  the  summit  some  groves  of  handsome  oaks  ;  in  front  is  a  sterile 
region.  Descend  through  steep  fields  to  another  set  of  wooded  dingles, 
which  wind  along  the  bottoms,  and  join  the  former.  In  various  parts 
Cader  Idris  appears  in  full  majesty.  Soon  after  attaining  the  woods, 
Pistyll-y- Caine  astonishes  the  beholder  with  its  grandeur,  forming  a  vast 
fall ;  it  is  bounded  on  one  side  by  broken  ledges  of  rocks,  and  on  the  other 
by  a  lofty  precipice.  At  the  bottom  is  an  alpine  bridge,  and  not  far  distant 
another  cascade.  Emerging  from  these  romantic  depths,  a  long  extent  of 
woodless  tract  appears.  It  is  situated  in  the  extensive  parish  of  Trawsfyn- 
nydd,  and  is  walled  in  on  all  sides  by  lofty  rugged  mountains,  of  varied 
form.  In  a  farm-house,  not  far  from  this  road  to  Rhiw-goch,  visit  Bedd 
Porus,  “  the  Grave  of  Porus  a  flat  stone  is  over  it,  containing  a  broken 
Latin  inscription.  Not  far  hence,  in  another  field,  is  a  ponderous  maen-hir, 
or  upright  stone,  called  Llech  Idris.  After  a  short  ride,  see  on  a  common  the 
noted  Sarn,  Llwybyr- Helen,  the  Causeway  or  Path  of  the  Legion,”  some 
think  of  Helena,  daughter  of  Eudda  or  Octavia,  and  wife  to  the  Emperor 
Maximus.  This  sarn  is  now  entirely  covered  with  turf,  but  its  elevation 
renders  it  visible  in  many  parts.  Beneath  are  stones  which  extend  uniformly 
through  its  whole  line,  to  the  breadth  of  eight  yards.  There  are  tumuli 
near  it  in  many  places.  Castell  Prysor  is  a  singular  fort,  placed  between 
the  hills.  The  remains  are  slight,  and  the  facings  very  regular ;  but  the 


DOLGELLY. 


251 


work  is  destitute  of  mortar.  Hence,  towards  Festiniog,  by  the  road-side^ 
is  Llyn-RathUyn,  a  small  lake  noted  for  a  singular  variety  of  perch.  Not 
far  beyond,  within  the  enclosed  country,  is  a  fine  Roman  encampment,  To- 
men-y-Mur,  the  Mound  within  the  Rampart.”  Sarn  Helen  enters  it  at 
one  end,  and  is  continued  to  Rhyd-yr-Helen,  in  Festiniog  parish ;  it  ad¬ 
vances  by  the  side  of  Fannod  Fawr,  and  over  a  farm  called  Croesor,  at  the 
upper  end  of  Cwm  Croesor,  and  through  Cae  Dafydd,  in  Naumor.  The 
branches  of  this  ancient  military  road  are  numerous.  On  the  common,  at 
a  short  distance  from  the  camp,  is  an  oval  enclosure,  36  yards  long,  and  27 
wide  in  the  centre,  surrounded  by  a  high  mound  of  earth ;  but  without  a 
foss.  Returning  from  the  parish  of  Trawsfynnydd,  along  the  before- 
mentioned  road  to  Llanilltyd,  keep  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  above  the  valley 
which  leads  to  Barmouth.  This  ride  is  very  delightful ;  the  vale  being 
watered  by  the  MawddacTi  or  Avon,  bounded  by  hills  and  chequered  with 
woods. 


THE  FOLLOWING  NARRATIVE  OF 

AN  EXCURSION  TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  CADER  IDRIS, 

is  chiefly  from  Bingley,  Aikin,  and  Donovan, 

This  considerable  mountain  lies  m.  s.  of  Dolgelly,  and  derives  its  appel¬ 
lation,  according  to  tradition,  from  Idris,  an  enormous  giant.  The  old 
bardic  writings  represent  him  great  in  mind  rather  than  in  stature.  He  is 
said  to  have  been  a  poet,  an  astronomer,  and  philosopher.  Cadair,  a  seat,” 
is  thought  to  imply  that  he  had  an  observatory  upon  the  summit  of  the 
mountain.  Cader  Idris,  in  height  the  second  mountain  in  Wales,  rises  on 
the  sea- shore,  on  the  n.  side  of  the  estuary  of  the  small  river  Disynwy,  a 
mile  from  Towyn.  It  proceeds  with  a  uniform  ascent,  first  n.  for  about 
3  m.;  then,  10  m.  further,  it  runs  e.  n.e.,  giving  out  from  its  summit  a 
branch  nearly  3  m.  long,  in  a  s.  w.  direction,  parallel  to  the  main  ridge.  It 
is  very  steep  and  craggy  on  every  side  ;  but  the  s.  descent,  especially  to  the 
border  of  Tal-y-Llyn,  is  the  most  precipitous,  being  nearly  perpendicular. 
In  breadth  it  bears  a  small  proportion  to  its  length  ;  a  line  passing  along 
its  base,  and  intersecting  the  summit,  would  scarcely  equal  4^  m.;  and  in 
the  other  parts  it  is  a  mere  ridge,  whose  base  hardly  ever  exceeds  1  m.  in 
breadth.  Cader  Idris  is  the  initial  point  of  a  chain  of  primitive  moun¬ 
tains,  extending  in  a  n.n.  e.  direction,  and  including  the  Arrans  and  the 
Arennigs.  It  is  much  loftier  and  more  craggy  than  the  schistose  and 
secondary  mountains  which  surround  it.  The  height  is  2914  feet.  Mr. 
Pennant  says,  that  Pen-y-Cadair  is  950  yards  higher  than  the  green  near 
Dolgelly  ;  Arran  Fowddwy,  740  yards  above  Llyn  Tegid  ;  and  the  Arennig 
only  20  yards  short  of  the  Arran  ;  that  the  fall  from  the  lake  to  Dolgelly 
green  is  180  yards,  so  that  the  real  difference  between  Cader  Idris  and 
the  Arran  is  only  30  yards.”  This  stupendous  elevation  is  generally 
ascended  from  Minfordd,  on  the  road  to  Towyn,  by  Llyn-y-Gader,  1^-  m. 
In  this  lake  is  found  the  Lobelia  dortmanna,  Narthecium  ossifragum,  the 
elegant  Nymphsea  lutea,  and  aromatic  Nymphcea  alba. 

This  district  abounds  with  pastoral  beauty.  The  broad  Mawddach  in  the 
distance,  with  the  intervening  space  varied  with  woods  and  fields,  inter¬ 
sected  by  the  Wnion,  which  serpen tises  along  the  vale,  all  conspire  to  cap¬ 
tivate  the  eye.  Arrive  at  Llyn-tri-graeanen,  Pool  of  the  Three  Grains,” 
-  from  three  huge  fragments  of  basalt  lying  at  the  e.  end  of  it.  At  a  short 
distance  further  is  the  Blue  Lion.  Edward  Jones  who  lived  at  this  house 
in  the  winter,  taught  a  small  school,  and  during  the  summer  season  per- 


252 


DOLGELLY. 


formed  the  office  of  guide^  hence  to  the  summit  of  Cader  Idris.  This 
house  being  situated  by  the  road-side^  immediately  beneath  Cader  Idris^  is 
a  very  convenient  place  for  travellers  coming  from  Machynlleth  to  Dolgelly^ 
from  which  to  ascend  that  mountain.  They  may_,  if  it  be  not  inconvenient^ 
on  account  of  carriages  or  horses,  go  over  the  summit  of  this  elevation  and 
down  the  other  side  to  Dolgelly  in  nearly  as  short  a  space  of  time  as  it  would 
require  to  descend  again  to  this  place.  Crossing  a  mountain  rivulet  we  come 
to  the  crater  which  contains  the  waters  of  Llyn-y-Cae,  ‘^‘^The  inclosed  Pool_,” 
from  the  w.  side  of  which  rises  an  immense  black  and  precipitous  rock  called 
Craig-y-Cae,  resembling  the  crater  of  a  volcano,  casting  a  gloomy  shade  on 
every  object  below.  Its  sullen  and  majestic  front  is  only  enlivened  with 
patches  of  the  moss  saxifrage,  and  a  few  goats  of  pure  white,  skipping  care¬ 
lessly  along  its  dangerous  steeps.  The  whole  of  the  scene,  from  the 
edge  of  the  pool,  is  truly  grand  ;  of  this  subject  Wilson  made  a  fine  picture. 
A  loud  and  distinct  echo  reverberates  every  call  made  near  the  margin  of  the 
lake.  Here  grows  the  Narthecium  ossifragum,  and  on  the  surrounding 
rocks,  Rumex  digynus,  Rhodiola  rosea,  Thalictrum  minus,  T.  alpinum. 
Lycopodium  selaginoides,  L.  clavatum,  and  Hymenophyllum  tunbridgense. 
The  waters  of  this  lake  abounding  with  trout  and  other  fish,  cover  an 
extent  of  50  acres. 

The  original  form  of  the  mountain  has  undergone  very  material  altera¬ 
tions,  occasioned  by  the  effects  of  volcanic  explosion.  In  support  of  this 
opinion  Mr.  Donovan  added  to  his  museum  abundant  examples  of  different 
kinds  of  lava,  pumice,  and  other  volcanic  matter,  of  most  unequivocal  cha¬ 
racter,  collected  by  himself  from  the  sides  and  base  of  the  mountain ;  also 
a  suite  of  the  remarkable  and  singularly  formed  columnar  crystals  of  basalt, 
scattered  in  profusion  about  the  loftiest  summit,  and  cliffs  surrounding  the 
crater.  The  general  aspect  of  Cader  Idris  is  exactly  that  of  Mount 
Vesuvius,  except  that  one  of  its  sides  is  broken  down,  by  which  means  the 
abyss  of  this  funnel-shaped  excavation  is  more  completely  disclosed  than  in 
the  Vesuvian  Mountain,  and  it  is  this  side  of  Cader  Idris  which  affords  the 
most  illustrative  examples  of  porous  stones,  forming  immense  beds  on  de¬ 
clivities,  a  few  inches  only  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  A  number  of 
these,  found  by  Mr.  Donovan,  exhibited  evident  marks  of  strong  ignition 
and  vitrification  ;  some  are  reduced  to  the  state  of  slag,  while  others 
have  all  the  cellular  appearance  and  lightness  of  pumice.  Without  entering 
upon  any  discussion  of  the  obsolete  Neptunian  and  Vulcanian  theories,  it  must 
be  admitted,  that  the  agency  of  water  might  have  contributed  materially  to 
affect  those  changes  in  the  primitive  form  of  Cader  Idris  which  have 
evidently  taken  place.  But  with  respect  to  the  crater  itself,  this  appears 
clearly  to  have  derived  its  origin  from  the  violence  of  an  explosion,  in 
which  a  very  considerable  portion  of  the  highest  eminence  was  torn  from 
its  native  bed,  and  throwm  to  a  considerable  height  over  the  other  parts  of 
the  mountain.  In  confirmation  of  this  suggestion  it  should  be  mentioned 
that  the  summit  of  Cader  Idris  is  covered  with  an  immense  wreck  of  stones, 
ejected  as  it  is  presumed  from  the  crater  at  the  time  of  this  explosion.  It 
would  be  difficult  otherwise  to  account  for  the  vast  profusion  of  those  de¬ 
tached  masses,  scattered  in  aU  directions  round  the  loftiest  elevations,  which, 
from  the  confused  manner  in  which  they  are  dispersed,  must  have  been 
thrown  into  their  present  situation  by  no  ordinary  mechanical  force.  Myriads 
of  these  masses  have  a  regularly  crystallised  form,  though  from  their  great 
bulk  and  weight  they  have  suffered  material  injury  in  the  general  convulsion. 
The  usual  length  of  these  bas^altic  formations  is  from  3  to  6  or  10  ft.  in 
length  ;  some  l6  or  20,  and  one  in  particular,  which  Mr.  Donovan  dis- 


DOLGELLY. 


253 


covered,  was  2  ft.  3  in.  long.  They  are,  however,  slender  in  propor¬ 
tion  to  their  extent.  The  peak  of  Cader  Idris  consists  of  siliceous  por¬ 
phyry,  quartz,  and  felspar,  enclosed  in  a  green  paste,  with  siliceous  schistose 
porphyry  intersected  with  veins  of  quartz  and  argillaceous  porphyry  in  a 
mass,  and  a  dark  grey  paste.  Several  rocks  contain  component  parts  of 
granite  and  porphyry,  with  a  great  proportion  of  white  saponaceous  quartz. 
In  several  specimens,  the  felspar  being  decomposed,  has  fallen  out,  and 
given  the  quartz  a  porous  appearance. 

We  now  begin  our  last  and  most  difficult  ascent  to  the  summit  of  Cader 
Idris  itself.  Loose  columnar  stones  lie  about  in  all  directions,  assuming  in 
many  places  so  regular  an  appearance,  that  they  might  be  mistaken  for 
Druidical  remains ;  some  are  erect,  like  Maenihirion,  and  one  is  dignified 
with  the  title  Lech-Idris,  Nearer  the  summit  occur  numerous  masses 
of  irregular  figures.  Having  gained  this  ascent,  a  small  plain  forms  the 
base,  to  two  rocky  eminences  of  nearly  equal  height,  one  lying  towards  the 
N.  is  Tyrrau  mawr;  the  other,  to  the  s.  Pen-y-Gader. 

We  were  mow  elevated  above  all ‘the  eminences  within  a  vast  expanse, 
and  as  the  clouds  gradually  cleared  away,  caught  some  grand  views  of  the 
surrounding  country.  The  huge  rocks,  which  we  before  looked  up  to  with 
astonishment,  were  now  far  below  our  feet,  and  many  a  small  lake  appeared 
in  the  valleys  between  them.  To  the  n.  Snowdon  and  its  dependencies  and 
in  the  same  direction  the  Isle  of  Man  ;  on  the  w.  we  saw  the  whole  curve 
of  the  bay  of  Cardigan,  bounded  at  a  great  distance  by  the  Carnarvon 
mountains,  and  nearer  the  ocean,  dashing  its  white  breakers  against  the 
rocky  coast  of  Merioneth.  The  southern  horizon  was  hounded  by  Plin- 
limmon,  the  bay  of  Swansea,  the  channel,  peeping  through  the  openings  of 
the  Brecon  mountains ;  and  on  the  e.  the  eye  glanced  over  the  Bala  Lake, 
the  two  Arennig  mountains,  the  two  Arrans,  and  the  long  chain  of  the 
Fervvyn  mountains,  to  the  Breiddin  Hills  on  the  confines  of  Shropshire. 
Dimly,  in  the  distant  horizon,  were  the  Wrekin,  rising  alone  from  the  plain 
of  Salop,  and  the  undulating  summit  of  the  Dee  Hills.  The  nearer  views 
are  wonderfully  striking. 

Cader  Idris  has  three  high  points,  the  most  lofty  one  is  Pen-y-Cader  ;  the 
next  in  height,  Mynydd-Moel ;  and  the  third  Craiy-y-Cae.  Mr.  Pennant 
says  that  he  continued  his  ride  beneath  Tyrrau-mawr ,  one  of  the  points 
of  Cader  Idris.  Beyond  are  the  two  pools  called  Llyniau  Creyenan  ;  and 
not  far  distant  are  some  remains  of  Druidic  circles  with  many  earns ;  a 
vast  stone,  raised  erect  upon  the  top  of  a  neighbouring  rock ;  and  several 
maeni  hirion,  or  rude  upright  columns.  At  some  distance  beyond  these, 
near  the  river  Cregenan,  are  the  remains  of  Llys  Bradwyn,  the  court  or 
palace  of  Eduowain^  chief  of  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes  of  N.  Wales,  either 
in  the  reign  of  Gryffyd  ap  Cynan,  or  soon  after.  The  remains  are  SO 
yards  square  ;  the  entrance  7  ft.  wide,  with  a  large  upright  stone  on  each 
side,  by  way  of  door-case ;  the  walls  are  constructed  of  large  stones, 
uncemented  by  mortar.  The  structure  of  this  place  shows  the  very  low 
state  of  architecture  in  those  times ;  it  may  be  paralleled  only  with  the 
artless  fabric  of  a  cattle-house.  These  ruins  mark  the  form  as  well  as 
simplicity  of  the  habitations  of  the  ancient  reguli  of  Wales,  agreeing 
exactly  with  the  account  given  of  them  by  Whittaker,  in  his  history  of 
Manchester,  who  says  they  were  commonly  placed  in  the  hollow  of  a 
valley,  and  either  upon  the  margin  of  one  stream,  or  the  confluence  of  two. 
And  the  followers  lived  immediately  about  the  person  of  their  chief,  or  in 
little  bodies  along  the  windings  of  the  valley,  to  be  within  reach  of  the 
usual  signals  of  the  lord,  the  striking  of  the  shield,  or  the  blowing  of  the 


254 


DOLGELLY. 


horn.*’  The  ichnography  of  Llys  Bradwen  presents  nearly  this  figure 
—  -  *  the  outward  circular  apartment  being  the  audience  hall  and 

. :  court  of  judicature,  the  oblong  building,  the  chief’s  own 

retirement :  around  the  principal  building  there  were  traces  of  several  others 
of  various  forms  and  dimensions.  {Cambrian  Register,  i.  153.)  Ednyfed 
ap  Aaron,  a  descendant  of  this  great  man,  had  the  honour  of  enter¬ 
taining  Owain  Glyndwr,  in  one  of  his  sad  reverses  of  fortune,  and  is  said 
to  have  concealed  him  in  a  cave,  in  the  parish  of  Elan  Gelynin,  called  to 
this  day  Ogof  Owain. 

The  ascent  is  much  easier  than  up  Snowdon,  and  I  am  confident,”  says 
Mr.  Bingley,  ‘^‘^that  from  Edward  Jones’s  house  at  Llyn-tri-graeanen,  I 
could  walk  to  the  summit  in  about  two  hours. 

The  Plants  found  towards  the  summit,  are  Aira  caespitosa,  Festuca 
ovina,  F.  duriuscula,  Poa  alpina,  &c.  These  plants  are  found  here,  as  in 
all  such  situations,  in  their  viviparous  state.  In  other  parts  grow  the 
Saxifraga  hypnoides,  S.  stellaris,  S.  oppositifolia  ;  on  Craig-y-cae,  Sphagnum 
alpinum,  Rhodiola  rosea,  and  Vaccinium  Vitis  idaea,  in  abundance  ;  Gna- 
phalium  dioicum,  Pteris  crispa,  Pinguicula  vulgaris,  Sedum  Telephium, 
S.  rupestre.  Lycopodium  Selago,  Campanula  rotundifolia,  C.  var  /S,  Jun- 
germannia  alpina,  J.  julacea,  Jungermannia  minium.  Lichen  paschalis, 
L.  fragilis,  with  other  species,  Thalictrum  minus,  and  the  Arbutus  alpina. 
Descending  to  Dolgelly  through  Bwlch-doch,  at  its  foot  grow  the 
Polytrichum  alpinum,  P.  unigerum,  and  on  loose  stones  down  a  rough  and 
rubbly  road,  the  Lichen  centrifugus. 

Mr.  Aikin  descended  along  the  side  opposite  the  one  he  ascended.  The 
first  stage  leads  to  another  beautiful  mountain -lake,  the  cold  clear  waters  of 
which  discharge  their  superabundance  down  the  side  of  the  mountain. 
All  these  lakes  abound  with  trout,  and  in  some  is  found  the  gwyniad,  a  fish 
peculiar  to  alpine  districts.  Following  the  stream,  gain  the  edge  of  the 
craggy  cliffs  which  overlook  Tal-y-llyn,  the  property  of  Colonel  Vaughan, 
of  Hengwrt,  and  Rhug,  who  purchased  it  expressly  to  afford  his  friends  the 
pleasure  of  angling  in  it.  The  stranger  who  has  never  heard  of  this 
generous  hearted  Welshman  may  participate  in  the  sport  without  even 
intimating  his  intention  to  the  proprietor.  This  water  contains  the  large 
lake  trout  of  8  lbs.  or  10  lbs.  weight,  and  the  common  river  trout,  of  which 
two  gentlemen  once  killed  512  in  six  days.  A  long  and  difficult  descent 
conducted  to  the  borders  of  Tal-y-llyn,  where  enter  the  Dolgelly  road. 

Mr.  Bingley  took  a  different  course,  by  going  more  e.  and  descending 
along  that  part  of  the  mountain,  called  Mynydd-Moel,  The  path  in  this 
direction  was  sufficiently  sloping  all  the  way  to  permit  a  person  to  ride  quite 
up  to  the  summit.  Mr.  Pugh  descended  under  this  peak  by  Llwybyr  Madyn, 
the  Fox’s  Path,”  to  Llyn-y-Gader,  the  Lake  of  the  Keep;”  Trout  and 
eels.  This  path  is  so  precipitous  that  few  strangers  choose  to  try  it.  It  is, 
however,  perfectly  safe. 

Several  travellers  have  preferred  the  inn  at  Tal-y-Uyn,  as  a  halting 
place,  the  accommodation  being  good  ;  the  lake,  3  m.  in  circumference, 
is  worth  a  visit.  Craig-y-Deryn,  ‘‘  the  Rock  of  Birds,”  is  often  visited 
from  this  place.  The  distance  is  4  m.  Mr.  Newell  has  given  an  excellent 
view  of  it.  {Scenery  of  Wales,  p.  111.)  In  front,  this  eminence  shoots  up 
200  feet,  from  a  declivity  covered  with  enormous  stones.  Its  height  from 
the  base  is  700  feet. 

An  excursion  from  Tal-y-llyn  to  Dolgelly  over  Cader  Idris  is  difficult 
and  laborious,  practicable  only  on  foot,  but  exceedingly  interesting.  The 
regular  road  passes  over  the  foot  of  Cader  Idris,  by  Llyn-tri-graeanen. 


FESTINIOG. 


255 


Angling  Stations.  —  Trawsfynydd,  12  m.,  good  trout  fishing;  Towyn, 
l6  m.,  fine  salmon,  and  a  vast  quantity  of  wild  fowl  on  the  Dysynni,  which 
flows  through  a  small  and  pleasant  valley;  Hendre  Llwyngwr,  11m.  s., 
a  fine  river,  abounding  with  salmon,  sewin,  trout,  eels,  mullet,  &c. ;  Pont- 
dolgofilliai  8  m.  n.  ;  Dolygamnwd,  4  m.;  Llyyi  Coregenan,  4  m.  s.w. ;  Llyn 
Gader,  1|  m  ,  trout  and  eels;  Llyn-Geirw,  5  m.  s.w. 


To  Macliynlleth,  17  miles,  taking  Cader  Idris, 
miles  distant  (which  see)  by  the  way.  Bing- 
ley. 

Cader  Idris,  back  again  to  Dolgelly,  thence 
to  Barmouth.  20  Evans. 

Cader  Idris,  and  back,  thence  to  Llanilltyd, 
13  miles.  Pennant ;  Aikin  ;  Pugh. 

Maentwrog,  18  miles.  Warner. 


To  Barmouth,  10  miles.  Hutton  ;  Skrine. 

Bala,  18  miles.  Skrine. 

Tan-y-Bwlch,  by  way  of  Dol-y-Melynllyn,  19 
miles.  Wyndham. 

Towyn,  16  miles.  Warner’s  2d  walk;  by 
Tal-y-llyn,  20  miles. 

Machynlleth.  See  Llanbadarn  Vawr. 


FESTINIOG. 

From  Cernioge,  15  miles.  Pugh.  j  From  Bala,  19^  miles.  Hutton. 

Penmachno,  8^  miles.  Bingley.  | 

FESTINIOG,  “  the  Place  of  Hastening,”  is  a  parish  situated  in  a  most 
enchanting  vale.  Its  dimensions  are,  however,  inconsiderable,  being 
scarcely  three  miles  long,  and  not  exceeding  one  in  breadth.  At  this 
place  is  a  comfortable  Inn.  Near  this  attractive  spot  are  the  Falls  of  the 
Cynfael.  One  of  them  occurs  about  800  yards  above  and  the  other 
300  yards  below  a  rustic  stone  bridge,  which  rises  100  yards  above  the 
bottom  of  the  chasm  called  Pont-du.  The  upper  fall  traverses  three  steep 
rocks,  over  which  the  stream  foams  into  a  deep  black  basin,  overshadowed 
by  the  adjoining  precipices.  The  other  is  formed  by  a  broad  sheet  of 
water,  precipitated  down  a  slightly  shelving  rock,  about  40  ft.  high. 
After  the  water  has  reached  the  bottom  of  a  deep  concavity,  it  rushes  along 
a  narrow  chasm,  where  rolling  amid  the  shaggy  rocks,  it  glistens  among 
the  scattered  fragments,  and  falling  from  slope  to  slope,  gains  a  smoother 
bed,  and  steals  among  the  mazes  of  the  vale.  Between  the  lower  cataract 
and  the  bridge,  is  a  tall  columnar  rock,  which  stands  in  the  bed  of  the 
river,  called  Pulpit  Hugh  Llwyd  Cynfael,  or  Hugh  Lloyd’s  Pulpit.” 
Hugh  lived  in  the  time  of  James  I.,  and  was  esteemed  a  magician,  and  is 
said  to  have  delivered  his  incantations  from  this  station.  It  was  about  the 
year  l600,  that  he  lived  in  a  house  yet  standing  upon  the  banks  of  the  river. 

The  propensity  of  the  peasant  to  pride  himself  on  his  native  spot  has 
often  been  noticed.  A  tourist  remarked  to  a  farmer  who  inhabited  an 
inaccessible  cliff,  near  Festiniog,  that  England  was  the  finest  and  best 
country  in  the  world.  Ah,”  replied  he,  but  you  have  no  mountains, 
Sir,  you  have  no  mountains  !  ”  Nor  should  this  be  wondered  at,  for  the 
bold  and  abrupt  features  of  nature  are  always  subjects  of  surprise  and  delight. 
The  Sicilian  boasts  of  Etna,  the  Swiss  of  his  Alps,  the  Italian  of  his  Appe- 
nines,  the  Spaniard  of  his  Pyrenees,  the  Peruvian  of  the  Andes,  and  the 
Scot  of  Ben  Lomond. 

The  small  remains  of  Mur  Castell,  now  called  Tommen-y-Mur,  where 
the  kings  of  England  used  to  encamp  when  they  came  against  North 
Wales,  is  in  this  parish.  Mr.  John  Lloyd  of  Cefn-faes,  Maentwrog,  has 
made  considerable  researches  into  the  history  of  Wales,  and  has  materials 
formed  for  accomplishing  a  history  of  former  times.  Near  Festiniog  ran 
the  ancient  military  way,  paved  with  stones,  even  along  these  steep,  and 
almost  inaccessible  mountains,  called  Ford,  Sarn  Helen,  or  Helen’s  Way, 
the  work  of  Helen,  wife  of  the  Emperor  Maximus.  A  similar  Roman  road 
is  discoverable  at  Craig  Ferwyn,  in  Merioneth  ;  at  F  Gym  Wynas,  in 


256 


FESTINIOG. 


Caernarvon ;  and  Lampeter^  in  Cardigan  ;  and  the  road  from  Neath  to 
Brecon,  is  distinguished  by  Sarn  Helen.  Festiniog  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  Cwm  Maentwrog  (the  vale  of  Maentwrog,  improperly  called  the  vale  of 
Festiniog),  2  m.  n.  e.  of  Maentwrog  in  Glamorganshire.  There  are  few  vales 
■which  afford  such  delightful  prospects.  Many  of  the  high  mountains  bound¬ 
ing  its  sides  are  shaded  by  oaks,  and  the  serpentine  Dwyryd  steals  placidly 
along  the  bottom,  through  richly  cultivated  fields.  This  river  at  the  bottom 
of  the  valley  receives  the  tide,  and  expands  into  a  wide  lake-like  channel 
called  Traeth  Bychan,  whence  it  flows  through  the  sandy  estuary  of  Traeth 
Bach,  and  into  Cardigan-bay,  the  sea  at  a  distance  closing  the  view. 

Mr.  Pennant  made  an  excursion  from  this  place,  which  few  possess  enter¬ 
prise  sufficient  to  undertake.  He  describes  it  as  follows;  —  Descending  into 
Cwm  through  woods,  along  a  steep  roadinto  a  very  deep,  but  nar¬ 

row  valley,  which  I  crossed,  and  began  a  hazardous  and  fatiguing  ascent  up 
the  rocky  front  of  a  lofty  mountain,  the  path  narrow  and  rarely  attempted  by 
horses.  After  the  labour  of  a  mile,  reached  the  habitations  of  two  farmers, 
in  a  hollow  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  the  rudest  of  environs,  containing  a 
pretty  lake.  This  cwm  produces  nothing  but  grass.  The  mountains  which 
enclose  it  are  the  Mod  wyn  yr  Hydd,  and  the  Mod  wyn  Gmyn,  and  others 
equally  rude.  High  in  the  first  is  Llyn  du  bach  ;  and  another  called  Llyn 
trwst-yllon  ;  and  opposite  to  the  last,  a  third,  called  Llyn  conglog.  Wind  up  a 
narrow  path  at  the  farthest  end,  upon  part  of  Molwyn-y-hydd,  in  order  to 
descend  through  Cwm  Croesor.  During  our  descent,  our  poor  beasts  trembled 
in  every  limb  ;  and,  in  fact,  escaped  wonderfully  on  reaching  the  bottom. 
The  traveller  who  chooses  to  follow  our  steps,  will  find  a  narrow  grassy 
bottom  in  Cwm  Croesor,  with  a  few  tenements  :  he  will  pass  through  a 
pretty  wood,  and  soon  after  find  himself  upon  the  high  road  from  Tan-y- 
Bwlch  to  Caernarvon.  In  this  journey,  he  went  from  Festiniog,  on  the 
road  from  Trawsfynydd  to  Yspytty,  and  not  2  m.  thence  fell  into  Saj'n 
Hden^  which  is  here  quite  bare,  and  exhibits  the  rude  stones  with  which 
it  was  made.  Near  it  at  Rhyd  yr  Halen,  on  the  r.  are  the  remains  of 
Beddau  gwyr  Ardudwy,  “  the  Graves  of  the  Men  of  Ardudwy.”  Hence 
he  descended  the  tedious  steep  of  Bwlch  caj^reg  y  fran,  into  the  narrow 
vale  of  Fenmachno  :  and,  after  ascending  another  hill,  turned  to  the  r. 
into  the  black  and  moory  mountains  to  visit  Llyn  Conwy,  the  source  of  the 
river  of  that  name.  In  it  are  three  islands.  Descended  for  2  or  3  m.  and 
reached  the  village  of  Ysbytty  Efan,  once  an  hospitium  of  St.John  of 
Jerusalem,  near  which  is  Plds-uchaf,  Rev.  J.  Roberts.  From  Ysbytty 
he  made  an  excursion  to  Capel  Voelas.  After  a  short  ride,  arrived  at  the 
celebrated  falls  of  Rhaiadyr-y- Craig -Llwyd,  not  very  far  from  the  confluence 
of  the  Machno  with  the  Conwy.  Here  from  the  neighbourhood  of  a  full¬ 
ing-mill,  the  prospect  is  very  extraordinary.  The  channel  of  the  rivers 
forms  a  triangle  of  deep  chasms,  occasioned  by  the  action  of  the  stream 
through  the  rock.  At  a  short  distance  below  occurs  a  most  tremendous  ca¬ 
taract.  The  descent  is  steep,  and  the  bottom  environed  by  naked  precipices; 
these  are  faced  with  angular  basaltic  rocks,  all  inclining  towards  the  river. 

Descend  a  steep  hill,  pass  over  Pont-ar-Leder,  and  arrive  at  the  vale  of 
Conwy.  Observe,  in  the  course  of  this  river  a  deep,  wide,  and  still  water, 
denominated  Llyn-yr-Avanc,  the  Beaver's  Pool.”  This  spot  was  for¬ 
merly  frequented  by  those  animals,  whose  skins  were  held  in  such  esti¬ 
mation  as  to  be  valued  at  120J.,  when  that  of  the  martin  was  sold  for  24J., 
an  ermine  for  12J.,  and  an  otter,  wolf,  or  fox,  only  realised  I2d.  The 
beaver-skin  constituted  a  chief  attraction  to  the  fashionables  in  the  age 
of  Howell  Dda.  Nefydd  Hardd,  who  was  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes  of 


FESTINIOG. 


257 

N.  Wales_,  resided  in  this  recess  during  the  time  of  Owain  Gwynedd.  This 
prince  consigned  his  son  Idwall  to  Nefydd  Hardd^  who  instigated  Dunawt^ 
his  son,  to  assassinate  the  young  prince  at  Cwm  Idwall,  so  called  from  this 
atrocity.  Nefydd  and  his  posterity,  in  consequence  of  this  outrage,  were 
degraded  to  the  state  of  bondsmen.  {Camb.  Reg,  i.  149.) 

The  vale  gradually  expands,  and  extending  about  20  m.,  terminates  at 
the  town  of  Conwy.  Visit  the  church  of  Bettws  wyrion  Iddon,  or  the 
Bead-house  of  the  Grand-children  of  Iddon.  Within  is  the  figure  of 
Gryffydd  ap  Dafydd  Goch,  son  of  Dafydd  Goch,  natural  son  of  Dafydd, 
brother  to  the  last  prince  of  W ales.  Shortly  pass  by  Pont-y-pair,  a  sin¬ 
gular  bridge  flung  over  the  Lugwy  :  the  scenery  here  is  very  striking. 
After  a  steep  ascent  arrive  at  Polwyddelan  Castle. 

To  Dolgelly,  the  road  lies  for  several  miles  over  the  mountain,  and 
on  clear  days,  the  summit  of  Snowdon  in  the  n.,  and  the  heights  of  Cader 
Idris  in  the  s.,  may  easily  be  discerned.  After  passing  the  obscure  village 
of  Trawsfynnydd,  Mr.  Skrine  proceeded  to  view  the  famous  cascade  of 
Dolymelynllyn,  Here  the  Gamlan,  rushing  down  a  rapid  slope,  falls,  in  an 
almost  perpendicular  cataract,  over  the  side  of  an  immense  rock,  foaming 
into  spray,  and  dashing  in  one  broken  and  impetuous  torrent  into  the 
valley  below.  This  part  of  the  country  is  remarkable  for  the  beauty  and 
variety  of  waterfalls.  Those  of  Pistyll-y-  Caine  and  Rhaiadyr-y-Mawddach, 
not  many  miles  distant,  are  highly  interesting  and  picturesque. 

Colonna  introduced  into  this  vale  the  practice  of  obtaining  honey  from 
bees  without  destroying  them,  and  is  more  entitled  to  the  honours  of  a 
monument  than  field-marshal  Turenne,  who  destroyed  his  thousands :  Co¬ 
lonna  has  preserved  his  tens  of  thousands. 

One  m.  n.  of  Festiniog  is  a  considerable  waterfall  called  Rhaiadyr-y- 
Fuwch. 

Mr.  Pugh,  who  sketched  all  the  views  which  appear  in  his  Cambria 
Depicta,”  and  was  ten  years  in  completing  them,  says,  “  The  artist  should 
desire  his  guide  to  show  him  the  following  places: — Rhatadyr-y-Cwm, 
Rhaiadyr-y-bod  Losgad,  Rhaiadyr-y-Fuwch,  and  Caenant  Llyn-y-Pyscoed. 
There  is  an  extensive  slate-quarry  at  Diffwys,  in  a  romantic  spot  in  the 
mountains.  The  rocks  called  Monod-mawr  and  Moriod-bach  are  grand 
objects.  Moel-wyn  towers  above  all  other  eminences  in  the  neighbourhood. 

On  his  route  to  Penmaciino,  the  tourist  should  visit  Beddau  Gwyr 
Ardudwy,  the  Graves  of  the  Men  of  Ardudwy.’’  These  monumental 
remains  stand  upon  the  hill  called  Micnant.  They  are  nearly  6  ft.  in 
length,  with  a  small  stone  at  the  head  and  another  at  the  feet ;  in  number 
about  SO,  from  2  to  3  ft.  high,  and  12  in.  broad.  Near  them  are  still 
remaining  a  carnedd  and  several  circles  of  stones.  The  tradition  relating 
to  these  monuments  is  nearly  parallel  with  the  rape  of  the  Sabines.  The 
men  of  Ardudwy  made  an  incursion  into  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  and  brought 
away  a  number  of  women  whom  they  conducted  in  safety  to  this  place, 
where  they  were  overtaken  by  the  warriors  of  the  vale.  A  battle  ensued, 
and  the  men  of  Ardudwy  were  all  slain  ;  but  they  had  gained  so  much 
upon  the  affections  of  their  fair  prey,  that,  rather  than  return  home,  they 
rushed  into  an  adjacent  water  called  from  this  event,  Llyn-y-morwynion, 

the  Maidens’  Lake,”  where  they  perished.  A  little  further  is  Bwlch 
Garreg-y-Frdn,  whence,  looking  down  the  vale,  a  picture  is  presented 
worthy  the  pencil  of  a  Wilson.  Descend  along  a  swampy  road  for  3  m., 
between  uninteresting  hills.  On  approaching  the  steep  and  tedious  descent 
into  the  vale  of  Penmachno,  the  ear  is  saluted  with  the  thundering  of 
waterfalls.  On  gaining  the  bottom,  is  a  noble  cascade  on  the  r.,  called 

s 


258 


FISHGUARD. 


Rhaiadyr-y-Rhiw  Fachno.  Its  form  is  an  inclined  plane  from  its  com¬ 
mencement  upon  the  hill^  in  one  continued  unbroken  sheet,  over  a  rocky 
bed,  to  the  vale  below ;  its  depth  is  about  ^  m.,  and  width  20  yards. 
Other  falls  in  this  district,  though  numerous,  are  of  comparative  little 
consequence.  One  on  the  1.  called  Rhaiadyr  Dyfnant,  appears  to  fall,  at 
least,  100  yards.  This  valley  is  destitute  of  wood,  a  great  imperfection  in 
an  English  picture.  Crossing  the  Machno,  a  little  space  before  the  village 
is  attained,  occurs  a  waterfall  called  Rhaiadyr  Oerant, 

In  the  year  1822,  Messrs.  W.  Bishop  and  Co.  of  Nant-y-Noch,  near 
Holywell,  obtained  the  Isis  gold  medal  from  the  Society  of  Arts,  for  a 
paper  on  the  porcelain-clay  and  buhr- stone  of  the  Halkin  Mountain.  In 
1816,  Mr.  Thomas  Hooson  of  Flint,  discovered  the  superior  qualities  of 
the  clay,  and  obtained  a  lease  from  Earl  Grosvenor ;  subsequently  he 
formed  a  partnership  with  Messrs.  Fynney,  Bishop  and  Whitehead,  called 
the  Welsh  Company  of  Nant-y-Moch,”  where  they  have  erected  works.* 
Halkin  Mountain  (called  Alchene  at  the  Conquest),  is  a  range  of  high 
uncultivated  land  in  Flintshire.  Upon  the  inland  side,  it  runs  parallel  to 
the  boundary  hills  of  the  vale  of  Clwyd  ;  and  on  the  n.  e.,  extends  from 
Holywell  about  4  m.,  till  nearly  opposite  Northop,  in  an  angle  of  about 
12  degrees  with  the  river  Dee,  averaging  1  m.  in  breadth. 


To  Tan-y-Bvvlch,  3  miles.  Hutton. 
Back  to  Carnarvon.  Bingley. 


To  Penmachno,  8|  miles.  Pugh, 


FISHGUARD. 


From  Newport,  Pembrokeshire,  61  m.  Malkin. 
St.  David’s,  16  miles  ;  by  way  of  Y-Maen. 

SigI,  20  miles.  Wyndham. 

St.  David’s,  15  miles.  Barber  ;  Evans  5 
Skrine. 


Mr.  Fenton  began  his  tour  in  Flintshire  at  this 
place,  his  native  district,  and  in  the  neighbour¬ 
hood  of  Glynamel  his  residence. 


FISHGUARD,  a  market  town  and  parish,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
N.  coast  of  the  county  of  Pembroke,  facing  the  Irish  Channel,  and  nearly 
opposite  Wicklow  in  Ireland.  This  place  is  also  called  in  Welsh  Aher- 
gwayn,  from  the  locality  of  the  port  formed  by  the  estuary  of  the  river 
Gwayn.  It  assumed  the  name  of  Fishgarth  as  far  hack  as  the  time  of 
Richard  II.  Garth,”  in  Saxon  and  old  law  language  signifies  a  wear.” 
To  no  spot  of  equal  extent  in  the  whole  county  has  history  or  tradition 
annexed  such  a  paucity  of  memorable  events  as  to  this  parish.  Conse¬ 
quently  there  are  few  relics  worthy  the  attention  of  the  traveller  or  the  anti¬ 
quary  ;  and  those  which  occur  present  nothing  of  more  importance  to  the 
latter  than  a  beacon.  There  is  indeed  in  the  town  a  spot,  called  in 
ancient  deeds  Y  Castell,”  which,  from  its  situation  on  an  eminence  com¬ 
manding  the  entrance  of  the  harbour,  might  once  have  been  crowned  with 
an  entrenchment.  Another  ancient  site  is  called  Castell  Mwrtach^  About 
the  year  1783  was  turned  up  by  the  plough,  an  urn  of  mean  pottery,  filled 
with  Roman  copper  coins  of  the  lower  empire ;  a  few  also  of  Gallienus,  Pos¬ 
thumus,  Victorinus,  and  other  emperors ;  but  were  melted  down  soon  after 
their  discovery.  The  spot  where  they  were  deposited  exhibits  not  the  smallest 
indication  of  an  ancient  camp  or  Roman  station.  Of  eminent  men,  few 
places  have  been  more  unproductive  than  this.  One  generation  of  fisher- 

*  The  Halkin  burbs  have  been  formed  into  millstones,  and  proved  to  be  equal,  and  in  some  cases 
superior,  to  those  of  France. 


FISHGUARD. 


259 

men^  mariners_,  and  traders  have  succeeded  another  in  an  uninteresting  series. 
A  single  exception  only  occurs^  culled  from  the  regions  of  antiquity,  in  the 
person  of  St.  Duhf'icius,  a  man  of  singular  eminence  and  piety.  He  sustained 
the  high  offices  of  archbishop  of  Caerleon,  and  metropolitan  of  all  W ales. 
Prior  to  his  elevation  he  presided  over  a  seminary  on  the  banks  of  the 
Gwayn.  He  assisted  in  the  synod  of  Llandewi  Brefi,  and  withdrew  to  the 
island  of  Bardsey,  where  he  died,  a.d.  522.  In  1107  his  remains  were 
removed,  and  re-interred  in  the  cathedral  of  Llandaff.  Till  the  year  1785, 
no  person  lived  in  this  parish  of  sufficient  consequence  and  property  to 
entitle  him  to  supply  the  office  of  magistrate.  Even  the  list  of  its  clergy 
exhibits  a  meagre  catalogue  of  merit.  One,  however,  in  the  obscure  muster- 
roll,  namely,  the  Rev.  Robert  Price,  is  distinguished.  A  funeral  sermon, 
on  the  occasion  of  his  death,  contains  a  gratifying  panegyric.  This  pastor 
in  whatever  relation  we  consider  him,  was  exemplary  and  eminent  in  works 
of  piety,  as  far  as  circumstances  would  permit.  Often  has  his  zeal  to  serve 
others  outdone  his  private  conveniences.  He  was  one  of  the  most  diligent, 
painful,  and  careful  stewards  of  Christ  in  these  parts ;  at  midnight  as  well 
as  midday,  in  the  most  tempestuous  as  in  calmest  weather — to  the  poor  as 
well  as  the  rich,  even  in  offensive  sickness,  he  was  ready  to  execute  such 
good  offices  as  adoring  love  to  his  Lord  and  Master  might  suggest. 

This  parish  developes  no  mineral  treasures.  A  conglomerate,  called 
pudding-stone,”  is  abundant  among  the  rocks  inclining  down  towards  the 
sea.  Within  1  m.  of  Fishguard  is  a  stratum  resembling  Portland  stone. 
The  cliffs  abound  with  Ligustrum  vulgare,  and  Euonymus  Europaeus.  Upon 
the  hill  below  the  church  occurs  Sambucus  ebulus  in  great  abundance;  and 
on  the  Gwayn  grow  Nymphsea  lutea.  Verbena  officinalis,  and  Campanula 
hybrida.  Nature  has  supplied  this  district  with  abundance  of  pure  water. 
About  the  year  1781  a  fine  spring  was  discovered  in  a  dingle  below  the 
church,  which  for  a  time  was  reported  to  possess  extraordinary  medicinal 
properties.  It  is,  however,  now  neglected,  and  the  house  which  protected 
it  fallen  to  decay.  The  air  of  this  vicinity  is  so  remarkably  salubrious,  that 
it  has  scarcely  ever  been  visited  by  an  epidemic ;  even  during  the  ravages 
of  the  plague  it  escaped  the  wrath  of  the  destroying  angel ;  for  when  New¬ 
port  was  unsafe,  the  market  was  transferred  to  Fishguard,  where  it  has  since 
been  held.  On  this  account  it  is  a  matter  of  surprise,  that  during  the  pre¬ 
valence  of  sea-bathing,  Fishguard  has  never  been  selected  and  preferred, 
especially  when  its  extreme  commodiousness  is  regarded.  To  this  consider¬ 
ation  may  be  added  the  cheapness  of  its  markets,  and  the  variety  and  agree¬ 
able  character  of  the  country.  This  unmerited  neglect  is  attributable  to  a 
servile  adherence  to  a  region  which  extends  from  Cardigan  to  Haverfordwest, 
over  dreary  hills ;  thus  abandoning  a  large  extent  of  sea-shore,  of  a  far 
more  pleasing  nature,  under  the  impression  of  saving  the  distance  of  two  or 
three  miles. 

Fishguard  is  almost  the  only  port,  from  the  Mersey  to  the  Severn,  the 
entrance  to  which  is  bold  and  safe,  and  not  unobstructed  by  shifting  sands, 
called  bars.  The  harbour  is  spacious,  2400  ft.  in  length,  and  ll60  wide, 
at  the  entrance.  A  pier  and  breakwater,  estimated  by  Mr.  Rennie  at  80,000/., 
would  render  it  one  of  the  safest  and  most  commodious  on  the  coast.  There 
are  belonging  to  it  not  less  than  twenty-three  vessels  from  23  to  30  tons, 
and  twenty-five  from  50  to  100  tons.  As  the  Irish  packets  frequently  put 
in  here,  not  being  able  to  make  Milford,  it  may  be  inquired  whether  a 
nearer  communication  with  the  water-side  might  not  be  formed  from  the  e. 
than  that  which  exists  with  Milford.  A  line  of  road  from  Carmarthen  to 
this  place  would  save  a  distance  of  15  m.  The  extent  of  the  bay  from  e. 

s  2 


260 


FISHGUARD. 


to  w.  is  3  m.j  from  n.  to  s.  1|  m.,  and  the  general  depth  of  water  is  from 
30  to  70  ft.  The  quality  of  the  bottom  all  over  the  hay  is  a  tenacious  com¬ 
bination  of  sand  and  mud.  The  principal  exports  are  oats  and  butter. 

In  this  and  the  adjoining  parish  are  extensive  quarries  of  excellent  slate. 
The  imports  are  shop-goods  from  Bristol,  culm,  coal,  lime,  and  timber. 
The  principal  vessels  belonging  to  this  port  are  chiefly  employed  in  carry¬ 
ing  coal  from  the  coast  of  Glamorgan,  Carmarthen,  and  Milford  to  Ireland. 
The  herring  fishery  became  unproductive,  and  is  discontinued,  except  for 
home  consumption.  The  salmon  fishery  here  might  be  turned  to  great 
account,  if  commenced  as  early  as  at  Newport,  St.  Dogmael’s  and  other  ports, 
which  now  take  the  lead  in  the  market.  The  average  price  is  1^.  2c?. 
per  lb.  Fishguard  is  divided  into  the  Upper  and  Lower  towns.  The  former 
portion,  situated  upon  a  considerable  eminence  above  the  harbour,  contains 
the  Church,  Market  Place,  principal  shops  ;  and  consists  of  three  streets, 
diverging  from  a  common  centre,  partially  paved.  The  lower  division 
forms  a  natural  appendage  to  the  port,  and  occupies  the  e.  side  of  the  river, 
over  which  is  a  neat  stone  bridge  of  three  arches ;  and  following  its  course 
from  s.  to  N.,  bounded  by  the  pier,  it  possesses  every  advantage  of  situation 
for  the  purposes  of  trade. 

The  Church  is  a  neat  small  structure,  recently  repaired,  without  tower  or 
spire  ;  is  distinguished  by  no  peculiarity  of  architecture,  and  contains  no 
dignified  memorials  of  the  dead.  In  the  cemetery  is  a  rude  stone,  raised  on 
one  end,  and  on  which  are  inscribed  the  words,  ‘‘  miserere  mei,”  without  a 
name.  A  few  yards  from  the  n.  e.  wall  there  is  a  remarkably  distinct  and  full 
echo.  The  church  was  once  subordinate  to  St.  Dogmael's  priory,  but  was 
detached  from  that  establishment  at  the  dissolution  of  monastic  houses. 
The  living  is  a  vicarage  of  such  small  value  as  to  have  been  an  object  of 
Queen  Ann’s  bounty.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  Baptists,  In¬ 
dependents,  and  Calvinistic  Methodists.  A  handsome  vicarage-house 
has  been  erected  by  the  present  incumbent,  the  Rev.  S.  Fenton.  In¬ 
animation  and  indolence  have  allowed  dissent  to  progress  with  rapidity  ; 
but  that  twilight  slumber  is  happily  giving  place  to  a  more  spiritual, 
enlightened,  and  energetic  ministry,  in  the  Church  of  England.  Many 
people  here  attain  to  the  age  of  80,  and  in  some  instances  to  90  and  100 
years.  The  style  of  building  is  monotonous;  yet  in  its  aggregate  presents 
the  appearance  of  a  flourishing  colony.  Both  the  roof  and  walls  of  the 
houses  are  annually  whitewashed.  *‘We  had  been  warned,”  says  Mr. 
Ayton,  by  our  itinerary,  to  fortify  ourselves  against  the  worst,  and  there¬ 
fore  were  likely  to  attach  an  undue  value  to  common  advantages ;  but  I 
am  still  inclined  to  think  that  we  met  with  more  comfort  and  cleanliness 
in  this  little  Inn  than  in  any  other  which  we  visited  in  'SUales.”  — 
Voyage  round  G.  Britain,  vol.  i.  p.  123. 

In  consequence  of  repeated  alarms  from  piratical  visiters,  at  the 
entrance  of  the  harbour  a  Fo7't  is  mounted  with  a  battery.  It  was 
erected  at  the  expense  of  the  late  Sir  Hugh  Owen,  Bart.,  and  a  governor 
was  appointed.  A  corps  of  volunteer  fencibles  was  raised  under  the 
command  of  the  late  W.  Knox,  Esq.,  and  distributed  between  the 
towns  of  Newport  and  Fishguard.  A  Post  Office  has  been  established, 
but  the  Custom  House  is  situated  at  Cardigan  ;  and  yet  this  port  transacts 
more  business  than  Cardigan  and  all  its  connections.  Fishguard  is  cer¬ 
tainly  the  most  central  spot  both  for  a  custom  house  and  salt  office,  the 
latter  of  which  is  at  Haverfordwest.  Mr.  Knox  appears  to  have  been 
the  tutelar  genius  of  the  place  ;  Mr.  Knox  obtained  a  patent  for  holding 
a  market ;  through  the  spirited  exertion  of  Mr.  Knox  a  post  office  was 


FISHGUARD.  261 

established ;  and  Mr.  Knox  raised  and  commanded  the  volunteer  fen- 
cibles. 

There  are  no  manufactories  in  this  district.  The  number  of  the  inha¬ 
bitants  amounts  to  2000.  The  benevolent  Knox  instituted  a  Sunday- 
school  at  his  own  expense.  Two  benefit  societies  are  here  established  for 
the  relief  of  the  indigent  and  infirm.  Few  places  possess  more  natural  com¬ 
mercial  advantages  than  Fishguard,  or  have  turned  them  to  less  account. 
The  surrounding  scenery  is  finely  diversified.  The  situation  of  the  town 
upon  a  small  bay,  the  shores  of  which  are  distinguished  for  their  picturesque 
beauty  ;  the  salubrity,  abundance  and  cheapness  of  provision,  also  the 
facilities  for  sea-bathing,  all  combine  to  render  Fishguard  a  most  desirable 
place  of  residence.  According  to  some  diligent  examinations  of  the  adja¬ 
cent  country  by  Mr.  Fenton,  jun.,  Fishguard  appears  to  have  been  a  place 
of  great  resort,  and  frequented  as  a  sea-port,  even  before  the  Roman  inva¬ 
sion.  This  he  shows  to  be  clearly  demonstrable  from  the  remains  of  a  large 
establishment  upon  Caerau,  which  extended  from  Hen  Dinas,  to  the  pre¬ 
sent  town  in  one  direction,  and  in  another  to  the  s.  w.  towards  Fishguard 
mountain  and  Cefn-y-Dref.  The  same  conclusion  is  rendered  further  ap¬ 
parent  from  the  scoria  of  iron  and  other  metals  every  where  turned  up  ; 
from  the  frequent  interruption  of  the  plough  by  ancient  foundations  :  from 
tumuli  and  other  places  of  sepulture  found  in,  and  adjacent  to  Caerau  ; 
from  the  great  Druidic  establishment  below  Caerau  in  the  vale  upon  the 
side  of  the  river  opposite  Glynamel,  the  residence  of  the  late  Richard 
Fenton,  Esq.,  barrister,  and  author  of  the  “  Historical  Tour  through 
Pembrokeshire,”  a  work  from  which  a  considerable  part  of  this  account  of 
Fishguard  was  extracted ;  from  a  tumulus  in  the  vicinity,  of  several  meini- 
Jiirion,  where  an  urn  was  found  with  its  mouth  downward,  containing  ashes 
and  fragments  of  bones  enclosed  in  a  cyst ;  from  other  places  of  interment, 
one  of  which  is  at  the  e.  end  of  the  present  town  behind  the  methodist 
meeting-house  ;  the  other  in  aline  with  the  present  rope-walk,  to  thes.  w. : 
also  from  some  intrenched  tumuli  called  castles,  of  singular  construction ; 
and  from  various  other  circumstances.  (See  Fenton,  584.) 

Pursuing  the  road  to  St.  David’s,  the  following  objects  attracted  the 
attention  of  Mr.  Fenton.  Quitting  the  bay  of  Fishguard,  cross  a  small 
bridge  of  one  arch,  over  a  brook  abounding  with  trout,  which  rises  about 
S  m.  E.  and  here  falls  into  the  sea,  separating  Cemmaes  from  Pehidiawg. 
In  a  small  valley  to  the  1.  is  the  old  mansion  of  Manarnawan,  once  the 
residence  of  John  Lewis,  Esq.  a  noted  antiquary,  friend  of  Bishop  Gibson 
and  Edward  Llwyd,  also  great  grandfather  to  the  author  of  the  Historical 
Tour  through  Pembrokeshire.”  Within  the  distance  of  a  field  or  two  from 
this  building  occurs  Trelewhelin,  a  mansion  formerly  embosomed  in  a  fine 
wood.  At  Goodwich  Sands  enter  Llanwnda  parish,  of  which  Giraldus 
was  incumbent.  The  living  is  now  a  vicarage  of  small  value.  The  sands 
are  level  and  firm,  never  subject  to  quicks  or  other  latent  dangers  ;  they 
extend  from  rock  to  rock,  1  m.,  and  form  a  delightful  ride.  The  barrier 
to  these  sands  is  a  pebbly  beach,  over  which  the  Glaucium  luteum  luxuriates. 
Upon  the  land  side  an  extensive  moory  flat  occupies  the  whole  vale,  covered 
with  rushes  and  the  Myrica  gale.  Upon  this  spot  was  fought  the  memorable 
battle  between  Trahaearn  ap  Caradog,  prince  of  N.  Wales,  and  Rhys  ap 
Owain,  who,  conjointly  with  Rhydderch  ap  Caradog,  usurped  the  sovereignty 
of  S.  Wales,  but  then  ruled  alone.  Trahaearn,  aware  of  the  exhausted 
state  of  Rhys  ap  Owain,  lately  routed  by  the  sons  of  Cadwgan,  despatched 
an  army  into  Pembrokeshire  ;  Rhys,  however,  boldly  staked  his  last  re¬ 
sources,  met  him  upon  this  plain,  and  after  an  obstinate  contest  was  put  to 

s  3 


262 


FISHGUARD. 


flighty  pursued,  taken,  and  with  his  brother  Howel,  put  to  death.  The 
lawful  heir  to  the  government  of  S.  Wales,  Rhys  ap  Tewdwr  ap  Einion  ap 
Howel  Dha,  now  asserted  his  claim,  which  was  generally  supported.  Join¬ 
ing  his  forces  with  Gryffith  ap  Cynan,  who  had  similar  claims  to  the 
government  of  N.  Wales,  they  met  Trehaearn  upon  the  mountains  of  Carno, 
where  a  sanguinary  battle  was  fought,  which  ended  in  the  overthrow  of 
the  latter.  The  rightful  claimants  were  by  his  death  restored  to  their 
respective  principalities,  which  had  long  been  governed  by  usurpers. 

Goodwich  Beach  was  for  ages  obscure,  till  Tuesday  the  20th  of  February, 
17975  when  three  large  vessels  were  discovered  standing  in  from  the 
channel,  and  nearing  the  rocky  coast  of  Llanwnda,  These  were  supposed 
to  be  becalmed  merchant-men,  coming  to  anchor  in  order  to  wait  the  return 
of  the  tide,  or  a  brisker  gale ;  but  on  their  nearer  approach,  a  most  serious 
alarm  was  excited.  Boats  were  seen  putting  off  from  their  sides,  full  of 
men,  followed  by  others  manned,  and  in  such  rapid  succession  as  to  leave 
no  doubt  of  their  being  an  enemy.  They  disembarked  at  Aber-y-felin,  rolling 
their  casks  of  ammunition  up  a  precipitous  steep  ;  a  task  so  herculean  as 
almost  to  exceed  credibility.  The  night  was  dark,  and  in  consequence 
the  number  of  the  enemy  could  not  be  ascertained ;  the  inhabitants  in  the 
vicinity  deserted  their  houses,  and  taking  refuge  among  rocks  and  furze, 
waited  within  sight  of  their  dwellings,  expecting  to  see  them  ravaged  and 
burnt.  The  townsmen  of  Fishguard  caught  the  general  panic,  who  rapidly 
removed  their  wives,  children,  and  valuables.  The  first  impulse  of  the 
invading  crew  was  the  satiation  of  hunger  ;  the  fields  were  occupied  in  the 
business  of  cookery,  and  the  order  of  the  night  was  plunder  !  Gluttony 
was  succeeded  by  intoxication.  A  wreck  of  wine  had  occurred  a  few  days 
before,  and  every  cottage  was  supplied  with  a  cask.  The  intemperate  use 
of  this  article  raised  the  men  above  the  control  of  discipline,  and  rendered 
even  the  officers  negligent  of  command. 

The  number  of  these  invaders  has  been  stated  at  1400,  who  after  a  few 
days  of  inebriety,  surrendered  to  66O  of  the  Pembroke  fencibles,  Cardigan¬ 
shire  militia,  Fishguard  and  Newport  fencibles,  and  Lord  Cawdor’s  troop 
of  yeoman  cavalry,  the  whole  headed  by  himself. 

The  rocky  hill  forming  the  n.  boundary  of  the  sands  is  prettily  sprinkled 
with  neat  houses  and  gardens.  On  the  same  side,  near  low- water  mark,  is 
Goodwich  Pier,  upon  which  stands  a  large  building,  formerly  used  as  an 
oil-mill.  A  family  named  Rogers,  from  Devonshire,  had  here  a  mansion- 
house,  niched  like  an  eagle’s  nest  above  the  pier,  and  finely  sheltered  by 
trees.  Some  vestiges  of  this  edifice  are  yet  visible.  This  situation,  for  a 
maritime  village,  is  extraordinary.  The  ascent  is  by  a  winding  sheep-track. 
Near  the  summit  occurs  a  rocking-stone,  about  five  tons  in  weight,  most 
delicately  poised.  This  is  a  Druidic  precinct :  for  beyond  are  three  crom¬ 
lechs,  one  erect,  upon  columnar  stones,  and  the  other  two  partially  over¬ 
turned.  The  surrounding  region  is  a  barren  heath,  extending  in  an 
inclined  plane,  and  open  to  the  ocean.  Yet  here  are  springs  of  delicious 
water,  some  of  which  ebb  and  flow.  Proceed  to  the  village  of  Llanwnda^ 
from  Fishguard  2^  m.  Upon  the  verge  of  the  rocky  eminence  just  above, 
is  a  cromlech,  reclining  obliquely.  A  little  higher,  on  a  ledge  of  rock,  stands 
a  detached  mass  of  stone,  most  grotesquely  formed  into  the  similitude  of  a 
monstrous  figure.  It  should  be  carefully  observed,  that  a  cromlech  rests 
upon  one,  two,  or  three  supporters,  having  an  inclining  top  ;  whereas,  the 
cistvaen  encloses  the  space  it  occupies,  having  an  horizontal  lid.  The  former 
is  a  bardic  altar  ;  the  latter,  a  place  of  interment. 

Below  this  village  is  the  rocky  point  on  which  the  French  made  their 


FISHGUARD. 


263 


descent;  and  near  it  Trehowel,  a  house  which  Tate_,  the  leader  of  a 
plundering  band_,  seized  for  his  head-quarters.  In  two  days  he  consumed 
a  large  stock  of  provisions^  took  the  ticking  from  the  beds^  burnt  the  fur¬ 
niture^  and  left  it  a  shell. 

On  the  Goodwich  side  of  the  projecting  headland,  called  Pen-Anglas,  a 
large  rock  sloping  to  the  sea,  presents  a  front  curiously  reticulated  by  the 
outbreak  of  an  almost  horizontal  stratum  of  basaltic  columns,  called  by  the 
peasantry,  cerniogau^  or  penny  loaves.”  Two  columnar  strata 

occur  one  on  each  side  of  the  estuary  of  Fishguard,  portions  of  which  have 
been  detached  to  form  gate-posts.  Westward  from  Trehotml,  near  the  edge 
of  the  cliff,  overhanging  a  small  creek,  may  be  seen  the  remains  of  Pen-Capel 
dedicated  to  Saint  Tegfan,  or  Degan,  concerning  whom  this  country  abounds 
with  legendary  records.  Remains  of  Druidic  monuments,  and  other  ancient 
works,  occur  here  at  every  turn  ;  and  on  the  other  side  of  a  ridge  of 
rocks,  which  separates  the  flat  upon  the  sea-coast  from  the  region  s.  e., 
there  is  a  very  interesting  spot.  It  exhibits  at  present  a  vast  aggregation 
of  detached  loose  stones,  disposed  in  various  forms  of  enclosure ;  and 
are  evidently  the  remains  of  an  extensive  settlement.  The  plough  is 
here  constantly  interrupted  by  fragments  of  foundations.  Tradition  affirms 
that  a  town  existed  here  called  Tref  Culhwch.  Culhwch  is  the  hero  of 
an  ancient  dramatic  tale.  (See  Owens  Cam.  Biog.')  The  side  to  the  w, 
contains  many  cromlechau ;  some  in  their  original  position,  and  some  over¬ 
turned. 

A  little  below,  in  the  vale,  raised,  perhaps,  to  cover  a  pass  over  a  small 
stream  that  skirts  it,  is  a  circular  encampment,  distinguished  by  a  solitary 
Maen  hir ;  and  more  w.  in  the  same  vale,  a  large  Druidic  circle  with  one  of 
the  encircling  stones  on  the  s.  side.  Within  this  area  was  dug  up  some¬ 
thing  like  a  stone  hammer.  This  Maen  Mr,  literally  translated  a  long 
stone,”  has  been  appropriated  in  almost  every  part  of  Wales  to  record  bat¬ 
tles,  treaties,  covenants  and  contracts;  also  to  define  the  boundaries  of  petty 
dynasties  and  other  subdivisions  of  property.  Strong  fortifications  crown 
the  rocky  eminences  which  extend  from  the  w.  extremity  of  the  parish  of 
Llanwnda  to  Pen-y-rhiw,  e.,  and  form  a  chain  of  well-connected  posts,  evi¬ 
dently  of  British  origin.  At  the  base  of  Garnfawr,  a  point  of  land  projects 
into  the  sea,  called  Towyn-y-hadau,  the  Cape  of  the  Boats,' ‘terminating  in 
a  bold  rock,  shaped  like  a  truncated  stone,  and  accessible  only  by  a  narrow 
isthmus.  The  ascent  seems  to  have  been  effected  through  a  hollow  covered 
way,  still  visible. 

The  British  fortress  at  Garnfawr  consists  of  an  extensive  area,  sur¬ 
rounded  by  vast  ramparts  of  loose  stones  and  bastions  of  the  natural  rock. 
On  the  land  side,  about  i  m.  distant,  on  a  wide  furzy  plain,  are  two  re¬ 
markable  Meini  hirion,  about  300  yards  distant  from  each  other  ;  probably 
erected  in  commemoration  of  a  battle  fought  between  the  natives  and 
invaders.  From  this  spot  a  well  paved  military  way  may  be  traced  up  to 
.the  camp.  Pass  through  the  poor  village  of  Tref  As  ser,  the  birthplace  of 
Asserius  Menevensis,  who  was  educated  at  St.  David’s,  became  a  Benedic¬ 
tine  monk,  and  officiated  as  secretary  and  -chancellor  to  his  uncle  Asser. 
Alfred  invited  him  to  his  court,  and  loaded  him  with  favours.  He  wrote  a  life 
of  his  royal  master  still  extant.  A  little  below  this  village,  observe  a  tumulus 
called  Castell  Poeth,  “  the  Hot  Castk*,”  once  an  exploratory  castelet,  with  an 
occasional  beacon.  It  is  encircled  by  a  deep  foss,  which  has  been  opened ; 
several  fragments  of  urns,  &c.  indicate  it  to  have  been  a  place  of  interment. 

Enter  St.  Nicholas  parish,  which  gives  name  to  a  prehendal  stall  in  the 
cathedral  of  St.  David’s.  In  the  hedge  of  the  churchyard,  and  now 

s  4 


264  FISHGUARD. 

forming  the  style,  is  a  coarse,  unchiseUed  stone^  bearing  the  following 
inscription ;  — 

PVNCCBTACEVX 

SORDAAR.  H.  ICIA 

CIT 

Upon  high  ground  not  far  from  the  church,  just  above  Trellys,  is  a  crom¬ 
lech  of  whitish  spar,  nearly  horizontally  placed  upon  two  supporters. 

Proceed  to  Marthry  or  Merthyr,  “  the  Church  of  the  Martyrs/^  one  of 
the  numerous  benefices  engrossed  by  Giraldus.  The  village  was  once  larger, 
having  a  market  and  fair.  The  latter  only  is  continued  on  Michaelmas 
day,  at  which  all  the  servants  in  the  country  are  hired.  The  steeple  of  the 
church  was  blown  dowm  in  a  storm.  In  the  fields  round  this  place  Oct. 
1693,  great  swarms  of  the  Locusta  erratica  appeared.  See  the  account, 
Abridg.  Phil.  Trans.,  ii.  777* 

One  m.  beyond  Merthyr  turn  to  the  r.  to  Rhosla^iog,  where  is  a  cromlech 
14  f.  long  and  8  broad.  The  stones  upon  which  it  rests  are  massive. 
There  have  been  several  more  used  for  building.  The  farmer  on  whose 
grounds  these  stood,  gave  Mr.  Fenton  an  account  of  one  he  had  opened. 
After  overturning  the  supporters  and  removing  the  incumbent  stone,  he  dug 
to  a  rude  kind  of  pavement,  terminating  at  a  considerable  depth  in  a  vault, 
coarsely  arched  with  stone  and  a  material  like  mortar;  but  Mr.  Fenton 
could  not  learn  that  any  thing  found  either  in  the  vault  or  pavement  served 
to  determine  the  purpose  of  the  erection. 

Proceeding  on  the  r.  towards  the  coast,  descend  to  Ahercastell,  a  small 
creek  which  carries  on  an  export  trade  in  corn  and  butter,  importinggroceries, 
&c.  from  Bristol  and  Liverpool ;  the  smallest  craft  convey  culm,  coal  and 
limestone  from  Milford.  Here  is  a  large  warehouse  for  the  reception  of 
such  articles  as  the  country  demands.  The  entrance  is  safe,  and  the  har¬ 
bour  sheltered.  An  islet  here  may  be  visited  at  low  water,  where  are  several 
irregular  elevations  like  places  of  sepulture.  Upon  almost  every  projection 
on  the  line  of  this  coast  are  earth  works,  to  describe  which  would  fill  a 
volume.  Ascend  to  Long  House,  observing  on  the  1.  a  perfect  cromlech. 
The  incumbent  stone  is  about  17  feet  long,  supported  by  6  columnar  stones 
all  bedded  with  fiint  and  spar.  This  is  a  very  extensive  aud  most  excellent 
corn  farm,  held  by  lease  under  the  bishop  of  St.  David.  It  w^as  formerly 
a  grange  belonging  to  the  episcopal  manor  of  Trefine,  or  Trefdyn,  a  strag¬ 
gling  village  governed  by  a  public  functionary,  chosen  annually.  There 
are  some  remains  of  the  mansion  called  Bishop  Martin’s  Palace.  It  was 
the  occasional  residence  of  the  Bishops  of  St.  David’s,  and  constantly  that 
of  Bishop  Tally.  Westward,  behind  a  farm  called  Tref  Ednyfed,  there  is 
an  earth-work  called  Castell  Havod,  which,  from  its  form  and  site,  Mr. 
Fenton  conjectures  was  a  castrum  sestivum  of  the  Romans.  The  sarn,  or 
causeway,  from  Loventium  to  Afenapia,  however  obscure  and  disputed, 
being  called  both  Via  Flandrica,  Hcnfford,  Fordd.y.Lladron,  and  Fordd 
Helen  may  be  traced,  not  more  than  2  m.  s.  of  this  encampment.  In  a 
small  field  above  are  many  of  these  enclosures  denominated  cistveini,  and 
more  s.  an  ancient  tumulus,  called  by  the  peasantry  a  beacon.  Mr. Fenton, 
in  company  with  his  friends  Major  and  Captain  Flarries,  of  Cryglas,  who 
politely  contributed  to  his  assistance,  engaged  in  exploring  this  beacon, 
August  1 805.  His  description  of  the  undertaking  occurs  in  his  Hist.  Tour, 
p.  32.,  as  follows  : — Over  the  centre  of  the  tumulus  ran  a  boundary  hedge. 
We  made  our  opening  as  near  the  centre  as  the  hedge  would  admit,  and 
after  removing  the  earth  from  the  surface,  found  large  stones  placed  around 


FISHGUARD. 


265 


in  form  of  a  cone,  some  loads  of  which  being  removed,  we  came  to  the 
natural  soil,  having  discovered  nothing  indicative  of  interment,  but  a  few 
fragments  of  charcoal.  There  was  a  quantity  of  bluish  clay  intermixed 
with  the  stones,  that  must  have  been  brought  from  some  distance,  the  soil 
here  being  of  a  different  quality.  However,  not  discouraged  by  our  ill 
success  on  one  side  of  the  hedge,  we  began  our  operations  on  the  other, 
proceeding  slowly  as  we  came  to  an  immense  stone  extending  under  the 
hedge.  It  seemed  plastered  and  cemented  to  the  stones  it  covered,  with 
the  same  kind  of  clay  that  we  had  found  on  the  opposite  side.  The 
following  morning  our  operations  were  renewed  with  additional  powers,  and 
the  obstacle  to  our  discovery  being  removed,  namely,  the  incumbent  stone 
measuring  8  ft.  10  in.  long,  and  very  thick,  covering  a  cistvaen  feet 
long,  2  ft.  4  in.  broad,  and  2  ft.  deep,  containing  nothing  but  the  finest 
dry  mould,  interspersed,  as  an  ingenious  medical  gentleman  then  present 
fancied,  with  some  very  minute  particles  of  a  substance  like  bone.  The 
sides  of  this  primitive  sarcophagus  were  formed  of  two  large  clegyr  stones, 
unconscious  of  any  tool,  only  with  their  inner  faces  naturally  rather  smooth, 
the  end  of  two  large  coarse  flags,  and  the  bottom  paved  with  smaller  of  the 
same  kind.  Adhering  to  the  clay  among  the  earth  thrown  out  some  days 
after,  were  discovered  a  small  stone  hatchet,  and  a  circular  stone  in  the 
centre,  with  a  few  marks  on  one  side,  something  like  numerals.  The 
latter  was  such  as  are  found  all  over  the  country,  seemingly  the  concomitant 
of  sepulchral  rites. 

Pass  by  Llanrlieithion,  formerly  a  prebend,  but  now  a  vicarage,  the  rec¬ 
torial  tithes  being  annexed  to  the  archdeaconry  of  Carmarthen.  The  inha¬ 
bitants  amount  to  715.  The  church  bears  a  stunted  tower,  and  the  nave  is 
divided  by  a  row  of  low  pillars.  The  font  is  of  sculptured  stone.  Upon  the 
s.wall  is  a  neat  marble  tablet  to  the  memory  of  John  i/arne^jEsq.  of  Cry- 
glds,  who  died  on  his  return  from  Lisbon,  where  he  had  been  for  the 
benefit  of  his  health.  Above  the  church,  following  a  dingle  through 
which  murmurs  a  limpid  stream,  1  m.  below,  you  enter  a  field  to  the  r. 
called  Llain-y-Sehedau,  the  Slang  of  the  Gibbets,”  where  are  many  broken 
and  overturned  large  stones,  without  doubt  of  Druidic  origin.  Fall  into 
the  main  road  from  Fishguard  to  St.  David’s,  at  a  place  called  Mesur-y~ 
Dorth,  the  Measure  of  the  Loaf,^’  from  a  stone  having  a  circular  line  and 
a  cross  sculptured  upon  it,  one  of  the  many  which  marked  to  "vveary  pilgrims 
the  road  to  St.  David’s. 

On  a  line  to  the  1.  near  the  stream  of  the  Solvach,  are  Llech-  Ti'ufin,  once 
the  residence  of  a  Regulus,  who  swayed  this  province  in  the  time  of  Gildas  ; 
and  more  w.,  occurs  Llech  Meylir,  built  by  a  chieftain  named  Meylir, 

At  Trefigan,  near  this  place,  some  graves  and  stone  coffins  were  found 
in  a  field;  one  of  these  contained  a  skeleton  much  above  the  usual  size, 
and  a  sword  which  could  not  be  sheathed  by  the  tallest  man  in  modern 
times. 

Turn  from  the  main  road  about  1  m.  on  the  1.  to  Caerforiog,  the  birth¬ 
place  of  the  celebrated  prelate  Adam  Hoton.  A  farm-house  now  occupies 
the  site  of  the  old  mansion.  The  fa9ade  of  an  outbuilding  here,  used  as  a 
stable,  exhibits  the  casing  of  a  pointed  arched  door,  elegantly  wrought,  and 
also  a  piscina.  Below  is  a  pleasing  valley,  through  which  the  Solvach 
takes  its  course  ;  the  mill-pond  here  is  called  Llyn-yr-Alarch,  “  the  Lake  of 
the  Swan.”  An  isle  in  the  middle  is  named  Ynys  yr  Alarch.  At  a  little 
distance  on  the  n.  side  of  the  river  are  the  ruins  of  a  columhary  or 
pigeon-house,  standing  within  a  square  moat,  originally  probably  a  castelet 
or  fort. 


266 


FISHGUARD. 


About  2  m.  s.j  in  sight  of  this  road_,  a  spacious  old  mansion^  called 
Rickeston,  appears  in  an  elevated  situation  embosomed  in  a  grove.  Over  a 
court  in  front_,  entered  by  a  gateway,  are  the  arms  of  Urian  Rheged.  The 
principal  part  of  the  edifice  has  fallen  to  decay,  and  is  reduced  to  a  mere 
farm-house.  Pass  by  Felin  Ganol,  or  Middle  Mill,  on  the  Solvach,  where 
there  is  a  large  meeting-house  for  baptists,  to  Whitechurch,  or  Plwyf-y- 
G?'oes,  the  Parish  of  the  Cross.”  Through  this  place,  from  some  frag¬ 
ments  of  a  Roman  road  yet  visible,  it  is  supposed  that  the  Sarn  Helen,  or  a 
converging  branch  of  it,  proceeded  this  way  from  Maridunum  by  Fache- 
lich  and  Dwr  Cleijion  to  the  ancient  Menapia. 

The  country  just  passed,  though  not  picturesque,  may  boast  a  wealthy 
and  independent  yeomanry.  This  district,  called  Pebidiawig,  or  Dewisland, 
was  formerly  the  granary  of  the  see,  and  still  supplies  grain  of  an  excellent 
quality  on  lower  terms  than  any  other  part  of  the  country.  Every  where 
fertilised  and  refreshed  by  abundant  rills  of  the  finest  water,  to  the  r.  the 
prospect  is  enlivened  by  a  prospect  of  the  sea,  its  concomitant  bays  and 
diversified  headlands  ;  on  the  I.  by  an  extensive  tract  enclosed,  and  under 
cultivation,  where  no  waste  occurs  to  give  an  uncheering  gloom,  bounded  in 
front  by  the  bold  rocks  of  St.  David’s,  and  islets  ;  and  in  the  distance  by 
the  Precelly  range. 

Enter  upon  the  sacred  precinct  of  Ty-Ddewi,  or  St.  David’s,  once  the 
metropolitan  see  of  all  Wales. 

On  the  direct  turnpike-road  to  St.  David’s,  at  a  short  distance  to  the  r.,  is 
Manernawen,  formerly  the  seat  of  J ohn  Lewis,  Esq.  This  spot  is  wooded, 
and  bears  an  aspect  of  comfort ;  the  remaining  portion  of  the  route  is  a 
dreary  blank.  A  few  miles  beyond,  cross  the  Afon  Hiog,  which  rises  at 
St.  Catherine’s,  and  finds  its  way  to  the  western  branch  of  the  Cleddau. 
At  Marthry,  6’m.,  a  very  considerable  fair  is  held  on  Michaelmas  day.  At 
Gorid  Bridge,  8^  m.,  the  traveller  will  approach  the  ancient  city,  but  the 
pinnacles  of  the  spacious  and  venerable  tower  do  not  appear  so  soon  as 
expected,  the  church  being  situated  in  a  deep  bog. 

Within  2  m.  of  Newport,  the  road  passes  close  to  the  remains  of  several 
Druidic  sepulchres  or  altars.  They  are  all  within  the  space  of  60  yards. 

To  Cardigan  take  by  the  way  the  summit  of  Dinas  Head,  which  ter¬ 
minates  in  a  vast  and  terrific  precipice.  Return  to  the  road,  and  proceed¬ 
ing,  come  in  sight  of  Newport,  a  small  town,  situated  in  a  valley,  sheltered 
by  wood.  The  scenery  is  inferior  to  Fishguard,  and  the  street  is  dirty. 
The  conqueror  of  Cemmaes,  an  extensive  district,  in  which  Newport  was 
included,  was  Martin  de  Tours.  He  transmitted  his  power  and  usurped 
possessions  to  his  son  Nicholas ;  the  latter  maintained  and  left  them  to  his 
son  William,  who  compromised  all  differences  by  marrying  a  daughter  of 
the  Lord  Rhys.  Newport  was  the  principal  residence  of  the  lord  Marchers 
of  Cemmaes,  and  still  bears  some  traces  of  this  distinction  in  the  fragments 
of  a  castle.  As  the  high  road  to  Cardigan  lies  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  sea,  several  travellers  have  made  excursions  from  Newport  to 
obtain  a  view  of  the  coast,  but  they  have  given  no  satisfactory  account. 
Upon  a  peninsula,  bounded  on  the  w.  side  by  Newport  Bay,  and  on  the  e. 
by  Aber-’Cribach  Bay,  many  of  the  Norman  leaders  who  had  assisted  Martin 
de  Tours  in  his  conquest  of  Cemmaes,  fixed  their  places  of  residence. 
From  the  extreme  point  of  the  peninsula  take  a  view  of  the  coast,  to  the 
E.  in  long  perspective  where  Pen- Cemmaes  towers  above  every  other 
eminence.  The  road  to  Cardigan  lies  over  some  long  steep  hills. 

To  St.  David’s,  15i  miles.  Malkin.  To  Haverfordwest,  14  miles. 

Newport,  Pembrokeshire.  6^  miles.  Wynd-  End  of  Mr.  Fenton’s  tour, 

ham  j  Barber ;  Evans  ;  Skrine. 


257 


FLINT. 

From  Hawarden,  8  miles.  Pugh.  From  Holywell,  5  miles.  Wyndham;  Pennant. 

Northop,  3  miles.  Bingley.  Mold,  6  miles.  Skrine. 

Holywell,  by  Downing,  10  miles.  Warner. 

FLINTj  the  ancient  deserted  capital  of  the  county^  in  the  hundred  of 
Coleshill_,  and  parish  of  Northop,  a  borough,  market -town,  and  sea-port, 
was  probably  once  a  Roman-British  fortress,  formed  on  the  plan  of  a 
Roman  encampment,  rectangular,  surrounded  with  regular  entrench¬ 
ments,  and  ramparts  with  four  portse  or  fortified  gates.  This  is  evident 
from  the  vast  quantity  of  Roman  coins,  fibulae,  and  various  instruments, 
discovered  from  time  to  time  in  the  “  old  washes,’'  where  they  separate 
ore  from  antique  scoria.  At  present  it  bears  the  appearance  of  a  de¬ 
serted  village.  It  consists  of  four  principal  streets,  crossing  each  other 
at  right  angles,  but  they  are  broken  and  dilapidated.  Mooring  rings  are 
visible  in  some  of  the  remaining  walls,  which  indicate  that  when  the  Dee 
rolled  at  the  foot  of  the  castle,  Flint  was  a  maritime  place.  It  can  now 
only  admit  small  vessels,  capable  of  taking  ground  at  the  ebb  of  tide.  The 
great  sessions  have  for  some  years  been  removed  to  Mold,  and  the  market 
is  discontinued.  In  1801  it  contained  116’9j  in  1831,  2216  inhabitants. 
Yet,  though  the  place  be  small,  it  is  not  despicable,  for  many  of  the  gentry 
frequent  it  as  a  bathing-place,  and  it  is  become  a  subsidiary  to  Parkgate  ; 
though  the  marshy  beach  renders  bathing  sometimes  inconvenient.  Hot- 
haths  have  been  constructed,  affording  the  invalid  every  convenience.  The 
smelting  of  lead  ore  forms  the  principal  branch  of  trade  here  :  6000  tons 
are  yearly  subjected  to  this  process,  from  which  40,000  ounces  of  silver  are 
obtained.  The  collieries  yield  1500  tons  of  coal  weekly.  Tram  roads  con¬ 
vey  them  to  the  wharfs,  whence  it  proceeds  to  Chester  and  North  Wales. 
Lead  in  pigs,  bars,  sheets,  and  patent  pipes ;  red-lead,  litharge,  and 
silver,  form  the  principal  exports.  The  walls  and  ramparts  have  been 
obliterated. 

The  Castle  stands  upon  a  rock  of  freestone  in  a  marsh  on  the  s.  bank 
of  the  Dee.  The  channel  of  the  river  once  ran  under  its  walls,  which  are 
still,  at  high  tides,  washed  by  the  waters  of  the  estuary.  The  time  of  its 
erection  is  doubtful.  Camden  says  it  was  commenced  by  Plenry  II., •  Leland 
attributes  the  undertaking  to  Edward  I.  This  fortress  was  taken  by  sur¬ 
prise  in  the  insurrection  during  the  secession  of  Prince  David  from  the 
English  interest.  It  wasgranted  to  his  son  the  BlackPrinceby  Edward  III. ; 
and  in  1385  was  bestowed  on  the  infamous  Robert  Vere,  Earl  of  Oxford, 
by  Richard  II.  On  the  attainder  of  that  nobleman,  it  was  subsequently  in 
the  possession  of  Percy  Earl  of  Northumberland,  who  basely  inveigled  the 
grantor  to  this  fortress,  where  he  put  him  under  the  power  of  the  cruel 
Bolingbroke.  The  Duke  afterwards  conducted  him  to  Chester,  depositing 
him  in  that  dolorous  castle.  This  captive  monarch  was  afterwards  con¬ 
ducted  in  procession  through  the  streets  of  London.  It  does  not  appear 
that  this  fortress  fell  into  the  possession  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  when  he  over¬ 
ran  most  other  parts  of  the  Principality.  During  the  usurpation  of  Crom¬ 
well,  it  was  garrisoned  for  the  king  by  Sir  Robert  Mostyn,  but  surrendered 
to  the  parliamentarian  forces,  under  the  command  of  Sir  William  Brereton 
and  Sir  Thomas  Myddleton,  in  the  year  1643.  It  eventually  surrendered 
to  Major-general  Mytton,  and  in  1647?  was  dismantled  by  order  of  par¬ 
liament,  with  Hawardine  and  three  other  castles.  This  fortress  was 


FLINT. 


268 

originally  of  a  parallelogramic  form^  with  circular  towers  at  each  angle. 
One  detached  from  the  walls  seems  to  have  been  an  additional  work.  It 
consists  of  two  concentric  circular  walls,  each  6  ft.  thick^  including  an  area 
between  them  20  ft.  in  diameter_,  having  a  gallery  opening  into  it  with 
4  entrances.  This  tower^  called  the  donjon/’  or  keep,  is  situated  at  the 
s.  E.  end,  looking  towards  the  land.  The  area  or  court  contains  about  one 
acre  of  ground.  In  the  curtain  on  the  w.  side  are  some  windows  with 
pointed  arches.  The  Barbican  consisted  of  a  square  tower,  originally 
joined  to  the  castle  by  means  of  a  drawbridge.  The  remains  of  this  once 
impregnable  fortress  are  in  a  state  of  rapid  decay.  The  e.  tower  is 
undermined  by  the  estuary  which  in  high  tides  dashes  against  its  base. 
In  1283,  this  town  was  made  a  free  borough,  consisting  of  a  mayor,  who  is 
constable  also  of  the  castle,  two  bailiffs,  a  recorder,  and  other  subordinate 
officers.  It  was  privileged  with  elective  franchise  in  the  27th  year  of 
Henry  VIII.  ,*  and,  in  conjunction  with  Rhyddlan,  Overton,  Caergwrle,  and 
Caerwys,  sent  one  member  to  parliament.  The  right  of  election  is  vested 
in  449  resident  householders  paying  scot  and  lot.”  The  bailiffs  are  the 
returning  officers.  The  late  act  added  to  the  foregoing  the  town  of  St. 
Asaph,  Holywell,  and  Mold,  as  joint  contributary  boroughs.  That  act, 
however,  did  not  alter  the  constituency  of  the  latter,  except  by  subjecting 
each  individual  voter  to  the  registry.  The  limits  of  the  borough  remain 
unaltered.  The  town  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  county  magistrates. 

The  Church,  a  chapel  of  ease  rather  to  Northop,  is  an  inconsiderable 
edifice,  having  a  small  tower  or  turret,  at  the  w.  end,  covered  with  boards. 

The  Guildhall  cannot  be  mentioned  as  a  respectable  structure ;  but  the 
New  Gaol  is  an  instance  of  Turner’s  architectural  skill.  It  was  com¬ 
pleted  in  1785,  including  the  efficient  plan  of  solitary  imprisonment.  The 
following  inscription  was  written  by  the  late  Thomas  Pennant,  Esq. 

“  In  the  25th  year  of  his  Majesty  George  III.,  in  the  sheriffalty  of  Thomas  Han- 
mer,  Bart.,  this  prison  was  erected,  instead  of  the  ancient  loathsome  place  of  confine¬ 
ment,  in  pity  to  the  misery  of  even  the  most  guilty,  to  alleviate  the  sufferings  of 
lesser  offenders,  or  of  the  innocent  themselves,  whom  the  chances  of  human  life 
may  bring  within  these  walls.  Done  at  the  expense  of  the  county ;  aided  by 
the  subscriptions  of  several  of  the  gentry,  who  in  the  midst  of  most  distress¬ 
ful  days  voluntarily  took  upon  themselves  part  of  the  burden,  in  compassion  to 
such  of  their  countrymen  on  whom'  fortune  had  been  less  bounteous  of  her 
favours.  ” 

The  erection  of  a  still  more  convenient  building  has  been  contemplated 
at  Mold. 

Inns  :  The  Royal  Oak  and  Ship. 

Adjoining  to  Flint  is  the  precinct  of  Croes  Ati,  which  gave  name  to  the 
hundred.  Tradition  states  that  a  large  town  once  existed  in  this  place. 
Here  scoria  and  Roman  antiquities  have  been  found.  The  former  con¬ 
tained  so  much  lead  as  to  produce  many  tons  of  metal.  Among  the  latter 
were  a  rich  ornament  of  gold,  elegantly  formed  of  twisted  wire,  studded 
with  globular  beads  of  solid  gold  ;  a  small  head  of  brass  ;  a  stylus,  a  kind 
of  pen  for  writing  on  waxen  tablets;  a  spoon  to  collect  tears  for  the  lachry¬ 
matory  ;  instruments  of  sacrifice  ;  hullce  or  amulets  ;  jibulcs  or  brooches, 
buttons,  keys,  rings,  &c. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Flint  is  a  wood  famous  as  the  scene  of  action 
where  Henry  II.  was  twice  defeated  in  one  campaign,  and  where  he  lost 
not  only  many  of  his  principal  noblemen,  but  where  his  own  person  Avas  in 
danger.  (Se^  Wynne,  p.  I74,  edit.  1774.)  The  carboniferous  or  moun- 


GROSMONT.  269 

tain  limestone  of  Flintshire  appears  to  be  analogous  to  that  of  the  north  of 
England. 

From  Flint,  Mr.  Pennant  took  the  road  to  Pentre  Halkin  ;  quitting  the 
town,  he  immediately  ascended  the  steep  slope  of  the  country  ;  the  pro¬ 
spect  from  these  heights  to  the  n.  e,  are  almost  boundless.  Beneath  is  the 
estuary  of  the  Dee,  with  the  city  of  Chester  at  its  extremity,  the  penin¬ 
sula  of  Wiral  limits  the  e.  side  of  the  sea,  beyond  which  stretches  the 
great*  county  of  Lancaster,  the  mountains  of  Yorkshire  and  Derbyshire, 
and  the  richly  wooded  track  about  Northop  and  Hawarden.  This  is  but 
part  of  the  magnificent  terrace  formed  by  the  public  road,  which  is  con¬ 
tinued  from  Hawarden  to  Clynnog  in  Caernarvonshire.  About  3  m.  further, 
in  a  woody  morass,  on  the  1.,  are  the  foundations  of  LIys  Edwyn,  originally 
the  seat  of  Edwin  ap  Goronw,  lord  of  Tegangle,  about  the  year  1041.  A 
strong  British  post  called  Moel-y-Gaer^  soars  above  the  road  about  2  m.  to 
the  r,,  surrounded  by  a  foss  and  dyke  of  a  circular  form. 

The  road  to  Holywell  runs  chiefly  along  the  coast,  lies  low,  and  is 
closed  in  on  one  side  by  a  dismal  salt-marsh,  and  on  the  other  by  hills 
which  completely  preclude  a  distant  view  of  the  country.  On  the  side  of  this 
marsh  grow  Salicornia  herbacea,  Statice  armeria,  Arenaria  marina.  1  m. 
further,  in  the  hedge-banks,  Chlora  perfoliata.  Campanula  trachelium.  For 
the  last  2  m.  the  road  ascends  and  winds  through  a  pleasantly  diversified  and 
fertile  country,  rendered  interesting  by  many  lead  works.  The  distances  are, 
1|  m.  Nant-y-moch  ;  |  m.  Bagillt  Hall ;  If  m.  Wallwine  turnpike.  The 

dilapidated  ruins  of  Basingwerk  Abbey  stand  upon  the  high  ground  to  the 
r.  almost  obscured  by  surrounding  wood.  If  m.  Holywell. 

The  road  to  Northop  lies  through  a  rich  and  pleasant  country,  afford¬ 
ing  views  of  the  channel  and  opposite  lands,  and  of  the  Mersey  beyond. 

There  are  feiTy-boats  for  passengers  which  ply  daily  from  Flint  to  Chester. 

Angling  Stations. — Hope,  12|  m.  on  the  Alyn ;  Caergwyrle,  125  m.  on 
the  Allen  ;  Rhuddlan,  I6  m.  on  the  Clwyd. 

To  Holywell,  5  miles.  Bingley  ;  Skrine  ;  To  Park  Gate,  4  miles;  thence  to  Liverpool,  8 

Pugh.  miles  ;  and  back  to  Chester.  Warner. 

Northop,  3  miles.  Wyndham;  Pennant. 


GROSMONT. 

From  Monmouth,  11  miles.  Barber. 

GROSMONT,  Monmouthshire,  is  a  pleasing  little  village,  situated  in  an 
undulating  valley,  diversified  with  wood  and  pasture,  and  beautifully  accom¬ 
panied  by  the  meandering  and  romantic  Monnow,  which  affords  the  best 
trout-fishing.  Though  at  present  this  place  consists  only  of  an  assemblage 
of  small  cottages,  it  was  formerly  of  more  importance,  and  is  yet  governed 
by  a  mayor  and  burgesses.  According  to  tradition,  it  once  formed  a  town 
of  considerable  extent,  holding  a  market  at  the  foot  of  the  Graig.  Upon 
an  eminence  at  the  s.e.  end  of  the  village,  and  swelling  above  the  river,  is 
the  picturesque  ruin  of  its  Castle,  a  pile  of  no  great  extent,  but  well  disposed, 
and  profusely  decorated  with  shrubs  and  ivy.  The  form  of  this  structure 
is  irregular :  large  circular  towers  cover  the  angles  of  the  rampart.  4Fithin 
these  are  traces  of  the  baronial  hall,  and  other  apartments ;  and  beyond  the 
mount  are  some  remains  of  the  barbican,  or  redoubt,  and  several  entrench¬ 
ments.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  dry  moat.  All  the  door  and  window  arches 
are  in  the  style  of  pointed  Gothic,  which  prevailed  about  the  thirteenth  cen- 


270 


GWINDY. 


tury ;  but  the  foundation  of  this  fortress  is  supposed  to  be  coeval  with  that 
of  Screnfrith.  The  environs  are  delightful ;  the  vale  frequently  swells  into 
gentle  eminences  clothed  with  trees :  on  one  side  the  view  is  bounded  by 
the  Graig,  and  on  the  other  by  the  Garway,  enriched  and  ornamented  by 
the  enchanting  woods  and  plantations  of  Kentchurch  Park.  This  fortress 
was  invested  by  the  Welsh  troops  under  Prince  Llywelyn,,  but  before  he 
could  seize  it  “  the  king  came,^’  says  Lambarde^  with  a  great  army,  to  raise 
the  seige,  whereof  as  sone  as  the  Welshman  had  understandinge,  they  feaved 
their  lives  by  their  legges.”  In  a  subsequent  expedition,  the  W elsh  suc¬ 
ceeded  in  cutting  off  the  provisions  of  the  royal  army,  obliging  them  to 
retreat ;  and  while  waiting  for  supplies  were  surprised,  while  asleep  in  the 
trenches,  and  deprived  of  .500  horses,  baggage-waggons,  &c.  This  castle 
was  the  favourite  residence  of  the  Earls  of  Lancaster.  The  Church  con¬ 
tinues  to  bespeak  the  former  consequence  of  the  place.  It  is  a  large  hand¬ 
some  structure,  in  the  pointed  style,  with  an  octagonal  tower,  in  the  cathedral 
form,  consisting  of  a  nave,  two  aisles,  transept,  and  chancel.  Many  exterior 
traces  of  buildings,  and  raised  causeways,  constructed,  like  Roman  roads, 
with  large  diverging  blocks  of  stone,  prove  its  former  extent  and  importance 
to  have  been  considerable.  Parts  of  these  yet  remain,  measuring  from  9  to 
12  ft.  broad.  The  legend  of  this  place  recounts,  with  voluble  earnestness, 
the  exploits  of  their  reputed  necromancer,  John  of  Kent. 

About  2  m.  N.  w.  from  Grosmont  is  the  village  of  Llangwa,  or  Llangwyn. 
The  Lower  Dyffryn  estate,  in  one  of  the  most  lovely  and  picturesque  parts 
of  the  county,  contains  a  house  of  ancient  structure,  with  S56  acres  of 
excellent  land.  The  whole  lies  in  a  ring-fence,  and  the  country  around 
abounds  with  game. 

Back  to  Monmouth,  turnpike,  7  miles  j  footpath,  1  To  Ross,  4  miles. 

6  miles.  Barber.  |  To  Screnfrith  Castle,  5  miles. 


GWINDY. 


From  Bangor,  14^  miles. 

Plas-Newydd,  14  miles.  Bingley. 


From  Holyhead,  12^  miles.  Pennant. 


GWINDY,  the  White  House,”  is  a  comfortable  hotel  and  posting- 
house  in  Anglesea,  on  the  mail-coach  road  from  Bangor  to  Holyhead,  and 
is  considered  the  half-way  house  through  the  island ;  but  since  the  erection 
of  the  Menai  Bridge,  and  the  diversion  of  the  road,  it  has  fallen  into  com¬ 
parative  disuse.  Gwindy  is  in  the  hundred  of  Llyfen,  county  of  Anglesea, 
and  parish  of  Llan  Drygarn.  It  is  14^  m.  n.  w.  by  w.  from  Bangor.  A  branch 
post-office  is  kept  here,  under  the  office  at  Bangor,  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  neighbouring  families.  In  the  reign  of  Edward  IV.,  and  subse¬ 
quently,  parties  met  here  to  exercise  in  wrestling,  tournaments,  and  other 
feats  of  activity.  Near  this  place,  on  the'great  road,  is  Bodychan,  an  ancient 
structure,  once  the  seat  of  Rhys  ap  Llywelyn  ap  HwlMn,  a  potent  man  in 
the  time  of  Henry  VIII.  He  was  first  sheriff  of  the  county,  and  converted 
his  house  into  a  county-gaol ;  the  dungeon  yet  remains. 

To  Holyhead.  Proceed  to  Trevor,  1-^  m.  (1  m.  beyond,  on  the  r  , 
Treiorwerth,  Rev.  H.  Wynne  Jones ;  and  1  m.  further,  a  little  to  the  r.  of 
the  road,  i^Presaddfed,  Mrs.  King.  This  structure  is  situated  on  the  site  of 
an  ancient  mansion,  once  the  residence  of  Hwfa  ap  Cynddelw.  Near  this 
place  a  tributary  to  the  river  Alaw  issues  out  of  a  small  lake  ;  and  at  a  little 
distance,  in  a  field,  are  two  large  cromlechau ;  one  is  standing,  the  other 


HAVOD. 


271 


down.  On  an  adjacent  eminence  is  a  maen  hir^  or  upright  stone,  about  9  ft. 
high,  called  Llech-gwen-farwyd.^  Bodedern,  Swan  with  Two  Necks, 
2  in.  5  fur.  Llanyngenedle,  1|.  (3  m.  on  the  r.  is  Llynon,  Herbert  H.  Jones, 
Esq.)  Four  Mile  Bridge,  3  m.  (At  1  m.  distance,  on  the  1.,  is  Bodiar, 
Mrs.  Lewis ;  and  near  Holyhead,  on  1.,  are  Penrhos  Hall,  a  handsome 
modern  mansion,  built  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  DefFerd,  the  residence  of 
Sir  John  Thomas  Stanley,  Bart. ;  Penrhos-bradwen;  and  Llanf air. ^  Holy- 
head,  4  m.  1  fur. 

To  Holyhead,  12J  miles.  Bingley.  |  To  Bangor,  14i  miles.  Pennant. 


HAVOD. 

From  Pont-y-Mynach,  4  miles.  Barber  ;  Evans  ;  From  Rhaiadyr,  17  miles.  Malkin;  Warner’s 
Skrine.  two  walks  ;  Lipscomb. 

HAVOD,  the  Summer  Residence,”  is  a  delightful  place  occupying  a 
deep  narrow  valley,  watered  by  the  Ystwith,  once  the  seat  of  the  late 
Thomas  Johnes,  M.P.,  and  Lord  Lieutenant  and  Gustos  Rotulorum  for 
the  county  of  Cardigan.  His  persevering  genius  clothed  with  a  mantle 
of  wood  rocky  precipices  which  seemed  to  deny  the  access  of  verdure, 
and  in  his  elegant  and  useful  projects  of  improvement,  he  afforded  em¬ 
ployment  to  the  neighbourhood  around.  It  is  also  called  Havod  Yettryd 
or  Ychdryd,  probably  from  some  famed  personage  of  ancient  times.  The 
Herberts  are  the  first  who  are  known  to  have  resided  here.  The  daughter 
of  the  last  William  Herbert  of  this  place,  who  died  in  1704,  married 
Thomas  Johnes  of  Llanvair  Clydoge  near  Lampeter,  to  whom  the  estate 
descended.  A  rustic  arch  announces  the  entrance  to  these  delightful 
grounds,  and  the  thundering  of  an  unseen  waterfall  forms  a  grand  sym¬ 
phony  to  the  ensuing  spectacle  which  discovers  such  an  assemblage  of 
cheerful  walks  and  silent  glens,  of  woody  precipices,  shadowy  glades, 
garden  thickets  and  waterfalls,  that,  compared  with  the  barren  wilds  of  the 
surrounding  country,  it  seems  a  paradise  rising  from  a  newly  subdued 
chaos,  an  oasis  in  the  desert.  Upon  a  spot  judiciously  chosen,  where  the 
banks  of  the  valley  gently  incline  and  the  coverture  of  lofty  woods  afford  a 
shelter  from  the  n.  e.  winds,  stands  the  mansion  erected  from  designs  by 
Mr.  Nash.  After  the  fire  in  1807>  it  was  rebuilt  in  a  similar  style,  com¬ 
posed  of  Greek  and  Saxon  blended  with  the  prevailing  Gothic.  A  sloping 
lawn  in  front  commands  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  enchanting  valley. 

The  following  account  of  Havod  is  gleaned  from  Mr.  Malkin’s  excellent 
work  on  the  “  Scenery,  &c.  of  S.  Wales.”  The  entrance  to  Havod  at  the 
shepherd’s  cot,  after  a  steep  descent  from  Pentre  Brunant  Inn  (as  de¬ 
scribed  under  Rhaiadyr),  is  the  least  attractive  of  all  the  entrances,  and 
therefore  perhaps  the  best.  For  some  distance  appears  the  roughness  and 
disorder  of  a  new  creation.  High  as  the  ground  is  on  which  we  stand,  the 
ulterior  prospect  is  intercepted  by  a  massive  rock  of  great  compass  and 
elevation.  This  barren  eminence  has  been  submitted  to  the  planter’s  hand, 
with  practical  success.  The  road  winding  round  this  promontory,  and 
escaping  from  its  obstructions,  suddenly  opens  on  such  an  assemblage  of 
beauty  and  grandeur,  extending  to  the  limits  of  the  perspective,  as  few 
spots  in  this  island  can  equal  with  resp'ect  to  singularity  and  the  agreeable 
surprise  which  is  excited.  After  travelling  at  the  foot  of  Plinlimmon,  to 
find  the  bed  of  the  Ystwith,  with  its  groves  and  meadows,  still  far  beneath 
the  level  on  which  we  are  standing,  is  so  unexpected  a  circumstance,  that 


272 


HAVOD. 


we  rather  start_,  as  at  the  withdrawing  of  a  curtain  from  a  picture,  than 
believe  it  a  reality.  The  winding  of  the  river,  here  foaming  impetuously 
over  rocks,  there  spreading  its  broad  and  glassy  surface  like  a  lake;  the 
endless  woods  hanging  on  the  mountain  sides  in  long  array,  sometimes 
rising  to  the  summit,  but  oftener  contrasted  by  the  naked  ridge.  Some 
are  planted  there  by  nature,  yet  more  owe  their  luxuriance  to  the  well- 
directed  efforts  of  their  recent  owner  ;  tracts  of  cultivation,  picturesquely  cir¬ 
cumstanced,  appear  in  the  distances  and  destroy  uniformity.  This  point  of 
view  is  still  further  adorned  by  the  elegant  spire  of  a  beautiful  newly- 
erected  little  church  called  Eglwys  Newydd,  embosomed  in  the  highest 
woods  of  the  opposite  hill.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  in  the  parish 
of  Llanvihangel-y- Creuddyn.  The  original  structure  stood  at  Llantrisaint, 
about  3  m.  nearer  the  mother  church.  It  was  removed  hither  for  the  con¬ 
venience  of  the  Herbert  family  and  the  Cwmystwyth  miners  in  l620. 
This  was  again  taken  down,  and  the  present  cruciform  structure  erected 
from  a  d^ign  of  Wyatt,  about  the  year  1803,  entirely  at  the  expense  of 
the  late  proprietor  of  Havod.  A  tower  and  spire  form  the  s.  w.  end.  A 
peculiarity  attaches  to  this  church  as  to  that  of  St.  Chad’s,  Shrewsbury,  that 
they  stand  in  the  directions  of  n.  e,  and  s.  w.  Over  the  altar  is  a  painting 
by  Fuseli,  of  Christ  and  his  two  disciples  at  Eramaus.  The  font  which 
stands  in  the  centre,  is  of  artificial  stone,  beautifully  carved.  The  n.  w. 
transept  forms  the  pew  of  the  Havod  family  ;  the  s.  e.  contains  the  clerk’s 
seat,  reading  desk,  and  pulpit.  The  church  is  in  the  gift  of  the  land¬ 
holders  of  that  part  of  the  parish  called  Uwch-Cell.  In  the  n.  w.  transept 
is  a  mural  monument  to  the  memory  of  Morgan  Herbert,  late  of  Havod- 
Ychdryd.  Miss  Johnes  was  interred  here  in  1811  ;  a  monument  executed 
by  Chantrey,  was  intended  to  embellish  this  structure ;  but  the  estate  having 
been  in  chancery,  its  completion  was  delayed.  The  n.  window  consists  en¬ 
tirely  of  painted  glass,  in  nine  compartments.  Though  the  ascent  to  the  church 
is  steep,  the  road  is  secure  and  smooth.  Descending  by  another  sylvan 
path  through  the  hanging  wood,  the  visitor  emerges  at  the  bottom  of  the 
Mill  Cascade.  Here  a  simple  alcove  adds  an  unobtrusive  decoration  to  a 
spot  frowning  upon  the  higher  pretensions  of  art.  The  fall  is  seen  most 
advantageously  from  the  building,  at  the  distance  of  some  hundreds  of 
feet.  Between  it  and  the  alcove  there  is  a  rustic  foot  bridge  which  adds 
much  to  the  composition  of  the  picture.  A  path  leads  through  woods  and 
occasional  spots  of  pasture  and  tillage,  seen  through  the  opening  vistas,  of 
the  carriage-road  to  the  house.  A  sudden  turn  most  judiciously  formed, 
brings  the  stranger  unprepared,  almost  before  the  portico  of  an  elegant 
mansion,  in  the  modern  Gothic  style,  under  the  superintendence  of 
Mr.  Baldwyn  of  Bath,  constructed  with  pointed  windows  and  pinnacles. 
Though  large  and  capacious,  it  was  light  and  airy.  The  valuable  library 
was  added  under  Mr.  Johnes’s  own  immediate  direction.  The  situation  is 
admirably  chosen.  The  lawn  slopes  elegantly,  but  naturally,  down  to  the 
water  ;  and,  immediately  behind  it,  rises  a  most  beautifully  wooded  hill. 
These  plantations,  reaching  to  a  great  extent  along  the  acclivity,  at  once 
protect  and  adorn  the  spot ;  while  the  sheep-walks  on  the  other  side  the 
Ystwith,  topped  by  rocks  which  appear  to  pierce  the  clouds,  add  to  the 
uncommon  style  of  nature  by  which  we  are  surrounded. 

But  the  walks  of  great  extent  are  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
On  crossing  the  lawn  from  the  house,  there  is  an  appropriate  wooden 
bridge  over  the  Ystwith.  Pursuing  the  road  to  the  farm,  we  soon  begin  to 
rise  from  the  valley  in  which  tlie  house  and  gardens  are  embosomed.  The 
road  leads  to  the  top  of  the  mountain ;  but  after  having  ascended  some 


PIAVOD. 


273 

timcj  a  narrow  path  to  the  1.,  carried  upon  a  very  high  level,  and  cut  with 
great  labour  out  of  the  rock,  leads  through  the  most  romantic  recesses  of 
this  interesting  scene.  Suddenly,  a  mass  of  this  material  seems  to  stop  all 
further  progress,  but  on  approaching  it,  the  solid  mountain  is  found  to  be 
perforated.  After  this  dark  chasm,  the  path  winds  round  the  front  of  a 
mossy  promontory,  which  unfolds,  from  its  awful  heights,  a  full  view  of 
the  beautiful  and  sublime  combined,  in  this  extraordinary  domain. 
Standing  on  a  narrow  ledge,  half  way  up  the  rock,  with  a  perpendicular 
precipice  below,  and  another  of  equal  height  above,  the  river  sweeps  on 
one  side,  through  the  valley,  and  divides  it  into  equal  parts,  harmoniously 
corresponding  as  well  in  magnificence  as  extent.  On  the  other  side,  the 
largest  of  the  mountain  torrents,  which  embellish  this  glorious  scene, 
forces  its  way,  with  loud  incessant  roar,  down  to  the  Ystwith.  Cultivated 
fields,  intermixed  with  all  this  wild  beauty,  a  range  of  opposite  hills,  the 
elegant  spire,  and  their  concomitant  objects ;  these  bear  along  our  admira¬ 
tion  from  point  to  point,  and  excite  a  pleasing  hesitation,  whether  to  prefer* 
the  nearer  or  more  distant  objects ;  the  ruder  aspect  of  nature,  in  her 
majestic  mood,  or  the  judicious  efforts  of  art,  to  engraft  convenience  and 
improvement  on  the  peculiarities  of  mountain  scenery,  wdthout  contending 
tastelessly  against  its  character.  On  emerging  from  the  forest,  we  soon 
arrive  at  a  tumulous  knoll,  lofty,  verdant,  and  unincumbered,  which 
commands  a  still  more  extensive  prospect  of  the  valley,  and  embraces 
nearly  the  whole  region  of  Havod.  Continuing  round  the  brow  of  this 
majestic  hill,  we  suddenly  approach  the  brook,  which  forms  a  remarkable 
feature  in  these  grounds.  At  this  spot,  a  cascade  of  great  force  tumultu¬ 
ously  announces  itself,  and  a  dark  hollow  in  the  rock  attracts  our  notice  on 
the  r.  The  termination  forwards  of  the  passage  seems  to  disappoint  our 
hopes,  when,  on  turning  suddenly  to  the  1.,  a  rude  aperture  admits  the 
light,  and  a  sparkling  sheet  of  water  in  front,  urges  its  perpendicular  fall 
from  the  rock  above  into  a  deep  recess  below  the  cave.  Here  the  luminous 
appearance  of  the  foaming  element,  seen  from  so  dark  a  station,  glittering, 
as  with  gems,  forms  a  most  imposing  feature. 

After  descending,  by  steps  of  loose  slate,  from  the  eminence  whence  the 
first  jet  of  the  whole  stream  is  seen,  a  rude  bridge  leads  across  the  channel 
of  the  torrent.  In  front  of  the  bridge,  at  a  little  distance,  the  stream 
tumbles  headlong,  in  a  continued  fall  of  about  100  ft.,  including  that 
part  of  it  already  described.  The  portion  here  presented  to  our  admira¬ 
tion  occurs  where  the  overflowing  of  the  deep  boiler  projects  itself 
angularly  over  the  smooth  rock,  and  precipitates  down  the  ledges  of  its 
rugged  descent  in  one  broken  shower  of  stormy  foam.  After  having 
crossed  the  torrent,  at  the  bottom  of  its  perpendicular  fall,  and  exhausted 
the  topics  of  contemplation  upon  its  brink,  we  may  follow  its  deep  declivity 
on  the  N.  side,  till  it  joins  the  main  river.  The  path  is  commodious,  and 
agreeably  diversified.  After  descending  a  few  paces,  a  resplendent  little 
rill  trickles  down  the  rock  above  our  heads,  and  contrasts  its  diminutive 
beauties  with  the  great  cascade.  The  scene  is  narrow  and  tortuous,  lofty, 
and  overshadowed ;  a  little  fall,  at  every  angle,  arrests  attention  ;  below, 
the  rugged  bottom  seems  yawning  to  receive  us  ;  behind,  the  crag  projects 
above  our  heads.  At  length  the  dingle  joins  the  more  extended  valley ;  a 
long  and  steep  descent  of  rude  steps  conducts  us  to  an  artificial  dam.  A 
piece  of  grazing  ground  renews  our  acquaintance  with  the  impetuous 
Ystwith.  After  crossing  it  by  the  stone  bridge,  and  again  passing  the 
other  mountain  brook  below  the  Mill  Cascade,  decline  into  a  sheltered  walk, 
level  with  the  river,  which  leads  to  the  flower  garden,  embellished  by  a 

T 


HAVOD. 


274 

Doric  temple,,  from  a  design  in  Stuart’s  Athens.  There  is  another 
flower  garden,  to  which  strangers  are  not  admitted.  Almost  behind  the 
wall  of  the  lower  garden  is  a  very  grand  rock.  The  summit  is  a  natural 
platform,  on  which  is  erected  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Duke 
of  Bedford.  The  Cold  Bath  is  the  only  object  to  detain  attention,  in  the 
sequestered  path  leading  from  the  lower  flower  garden  to  the  lawn :  but 
there  are  many  other  walks  of  large  compass  and  extensive  variety,  about 
the  grounds,  not  to  be  explored  in  a  single  day.  The  road  towards  Yshytty 
Ystwith  is  perhaps  more  eloquently,  than  correctly,  described  by  Mr. 
Cumberland,  in  a  pamphlet  of  fifty  pages,  which  should  be  perused  by  all 
who  intend  to  explore  Havod  in  its  various  sinuosities.  In  1783,  this 
estate  could  be  considered  little  better  than  a  dreary  waste,  but  when  Mr. 
Johnes  took  it  under  his  superintendence,  it  commenced  gradually  to  unfold 
its  surprising  capabilities  and  superlative  attractions.  From  October,  1795, 
to  April,  1801,  the  number  of  trees  planted  on  this  estate  amounted  to  not 
less  than  2,065,000,  of  which  1,200,000  were  larches,  exclusive  of  many 
acres  sown  with  acorns.  From  Midsummer,  I8O6,  to  that  of  1807, 
300,000  larches,  300,000  birch,  and  10,000  spruce  firs  were  added.  The 
agricultural  mode  here  pursued  has  been  given  to  the  public,  in  a  small 
pamphlet  called  “A  Cardiganshire  Landlord’s  Advice  to  his  Tenants.” 
The  number  of  labourers  employed  about  the  farm  is  very  great,  their 
comfortable  cottages,  interspersed  among  the  woods,  with  the  houses  of  the 
bailiff  and  gardener  aspiring  even  to  elegance,  conveyed  more  the  idea  of  a 
flourishing  colony,  than  of  a  private  gentleman’s  residence.  On  the 
anniversary  of  a  particular  birth -day,  it  was  the  custom  at  Havod  to 
entertain  all  the  tenants  and  labourers  on  the  estate,  who  had  formed 
themselves  into  a  friendly  society,  with  their  wives  and  families  ;  nor  were 
the  doors  closed  against  strangers  from  the  neighbourhood  who  accidentally 
presented  themselves  at  the  festive  scene.  The  table  has  often  been  spread, 
not  on  the  lawn,  or  in  the  servant’s  hall,  but  in  the  entrance  hall  and 
dining-room,  ornamented  as  they  are  with  valuable  pictures,  and  other 
articles  of  costly  furniture.  If  the  visitors  were  too  numerous  to  be  accom¬ 
modated  in  these,  other  apartments  were  thrown  open  for  their  reception. 
The  family  were  always  at  the  head  of  the  party,  and  the  dance  succeeded 
the  pleasures  of  the  table.  A  school  for  the  gratuitous  education  of  girls 
was  opened,  under  the  direction  of  Mrs.  Johnes,  and  another  for  boys  was 
in  contemplation.  A  surgeon  and  apothecary  had  an  annual  pension  for  his 
attendance  on  the  cottagers  of  the  estate.  A  printing  establishment 
with  an  apparatus  for  publishing  extensive  works,  was  formed  in  these 
grounds.  In  this  seclusion  were  committed  to  press,  voluminous  transla¬ 
tions  from  Froissart,  Joinville,  Brocquiere,  and  Monstrelet.  Every  friend 
to  learning  and  the  polite  arts  must  lament  the  total  loss,  by  fire,  of  the 
elegant  and  magnificent  mansion  of  Havod,  the  residence  of  a  man  whose 
name  was  the  rapturous  theme  of  every  traveller  who  visited  this  part  of 
the  Principality.  This  dreadful  accident  occurred  on  Friday,  the  13th  of 
March,  I8O7.  The  plate,  and  some  furniture,  pictures,  china,  and  glass, 
were  saved,  but  the  major  part  of  the  books,  furniture,  including  magnificent 
French  glasses,  wine,  linen,  stores,  marble  busts,  mosaic,  musical  instru¬ 
ments,  ornaments,  Mrs.  Johnes's  private  library,  dressing-plate,  jewels, 
trinkets,  lace,  and  all  her  wardrobe,  together  with  the  mansion,  were  con¬ 
sumed.  From  the  period  of  the  destruction  of  the  Alexandrian  Library, 
no  greater  loss,  perhaps,  has  befallen  literature  than  the  conflagration  at 
Havod.  By  this  painful  dispensation  were  annihilated  a  splendid  collec¬ 
tion  of  many  very  rare  and  expensive  volumes,  \Felsh  manuscripts,  and 


IIAVOD. 


275 


other  invaluable  articles,  the  fruit  of  40  years’  pursuit.  No  catalogue  of 
this  treasure  was  ever  made ;  it  was  consigned  not  only  to  destruction,  but 
to  oblivion. 

Mrs.  Johnes  attributed  the  misfortune  to  the  careless  use  of  a  warming- 
pan,  in  the  housekeeper’s  chamber  ;  the  housekeeper  charges  the  house¬ 
maids  with  taking  hot  ashes  from  under  the  grate,  and  leaving  them  in 
scuttles  under  the  stairs,  instead  of  emptying  them  in  the  proper  place. 
The  secluded  situation  of  Havod  prevented  assistance ;  none  could  be 
obtained  but  from  the  inmates,  three  men  and  the  gardener,  three  ladies, 
and  about  eight  female  servants.  An  engine  was  indeed  upon  the  premises, 
but  no  one  present  could  work  it ;  the  flames,  therefore,  were  uninterrupted 
in  their  progress,  so  that  in  the  short  space  of  three  hours,  except  the  turrets 
at  the  corners,  the  bare  walls  only  remained,  a  melancholy  memento  of  the 
former  splendour  of  the  place.  Mr.  Johnes  was  attending  his  parlia¬ 
mentary  duties,  and  did  not  arrive  to  the  solace  of  his  family  till  the  fifth 
day  after  the  conflagration.  The  conduct  of  Mr.  Johnes,  who  suffered 
so  severely  by  this  melancholy  event,  is,  in  the  highest  degree,  honourable 
to  his  character ;  nor  is  that  of  the  directors  of  the  British  and  Imperial 
Fire  Offices  less  entitled  to  the  praise  of  liberality.  The  extent  of  the  loss, 
as  far  as  it  has  been  possible  to  ascertain  a  loss  of  such  various  magnitude, 
was  estimated  by  Mr.  Abbot,  who  acted  as  agent  for  both  offices,  with  great 
ability,  perspicuity,  and  judgment.  It  was  finally  adjusted  at  20,584/. 
The  entire  loss  has  been  estimated  at  70,000. 

Such  is  the  precarious  tenure  of  all  earthly  possessions  !  How  appro¬ 
priately  seasonable  is  the  injunction  of  that  wisdom  which  descendeth  from 
above,  not  to  “  set  our  hearts  upon  them.”  The  things  which  are  seen 
are  temporal,  so  evanescent,  that  they  may  vanish  in  an  hour  ;  but  the 
things  which  are  not  seen,  are  eternal,  and  constitute  that  inheritance  which 
alone  is  incorruptible,  undefiled,  and  fadeth  not  away,  eternal  in  the 
heavens in  nature’s  ruins  not  one  atom  lost.” 

The  court  of  the  Cardigan  Shire-Hall  contains  a  bust  of  Mr.  Johnes, 
once  Lord  Lieutenant  of  the  county,  sculptured  by  Chantry,  at  the  expense 
of  the  county  magistrates.  He  died  at  Exeter,  and  was  buried  at  Havod. 
The  estate  was  purchased  by  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  for  about  62,000/. 
His  grace  seems  much  attached  to  this  Paradise  in  the  Wild,”  as  it  has 
justly  been  designated,  and  usually  spends  between  two  and  three  months 
here  in  the  autumn  of  every  year.  His  grace  is  carrying  on  extensive 
improvements,  both  in  the  mansion  and  grounds,  affording  employment  to 
a  great  many  workmen,  employed  for  the  last  two  years.  Considerable 
improvements  are  also  in  progress  at  the  Havod  Arms,  and  Devil’s  Bridge, 
likewise  the  property  of  the  Duke.  The  stabling  has  been  entirely  taken 
down  and  rebuilt,  and  the  house  is  re-modelled,  both  in  the  interior  and 
exterior.  The  roof  has  been  raised,  and  the  character  of  the  whole  struc¬ 
ture  changed  from  that  of  a  plain  square  edifice,  into  what  is  far  more  appro¬ 
priate  for  the  situation,  a  Swiss  cottage. 

On  the  Road  to  Pont-y-Mynaoh,  cross  Maen  Arthur,  This  eminence 
is  bold,  rugged,  and  barren.  On  gaining  the  summit  the  ground  continues 
elevated,  and  seems  to  justify  the  opinion  that  this  is  a  county  of  excava¬ 
tions.  The  road  to  Llanidloes  then  opens  a  partial  view  of  that  mighty 
angle,  where  the  rivers  Mynach  and  Rheidol  unite  their  torrents.  In  front 
is  the  great  fall  of  the  Rheidol,  shrinking  apparently  into  a  cascade  of  small 
dimensions.  A  gentle  descent  gradually  unfolds  the  scenery  to  view,  till  at 
length  it  bursts  upon  the  sight  in  full  display  at  Pont-y-Mynach. 

To  Tregaron,  Mr.  Evans  passed  the  unsculptured  stone,  a  short  dis- 

T  2 


HARLECH. 


276 

tance  from  Havod^  called  Maen  Arthur,  and  passing  the  dreary  cwm  Yshytty 
Ystwith)  reached  Ystrad  Meirig,  where  formerly  stood  a  castle.  At  this  place 
is  a  Grammar  School,  well  endowed.  This  district  is  very  mountainous. 
Here  is  the  remarkable  Craignaullin  mentioned  by  Leland,  whence  may  be 
seen  9  lakes  ;  i.  e.  Llyn  Helyg,  Llyn  Teifi,  Llyn  Hir,  Llyn  Gorlan,  Llyn 
Gronyn,  Llyn  Verydden-Fychan,  Llyn  Verydden-Fawr,  Llyn  Ynigen-Felin, 
and  Llyn-Du.  The  mountains  from  Cragnaullin  form  a  magnificent  am¬ 
phitheatre,  having  only  one  apparent  entrance,  which  is  Nant  Teifi.  In 
one  of  the  contiguous  valleys  is  Ystrad  Flur,  or  the  abbey  of  Strata 
Florida,  in  the  parish  of  Tregaron,  distant  3  m.  Following  the 
course  of  the  river,  the  poor  but  populous  village  of  Rhydfendigaid,  the 
Blessed  Ford  is  reached.  The  inhabitants  are  chiefly  employed  in  lead 
mines.  The  sides  of  the  hills  in  this  district  appear  clothed  with  woods, 
wherein  abound  Vaccinium  myrtillus,  Ruhus  caesius,  and  R.  idseus.  In  a 
large  meadow  in  one  of  these  bottoms  is  Ffynnon  Elwdad,  a  water  celebrated 
for  its  efficacy  in  complaints  of  the  female  breast.  The  land  hence  from 
the  Teifi  to  Llyn-y-Maes,  the  Lake  of  the  Field,”  v/here  tradition  says 
formerly  stood  a  town,  is  one  continued  marshy  bog,  abounding  in  turbaries, 
and  extending  to  Tregaron. 

Travellers  from  the  metropolis,  who  are  desirous  of  ascending  fine  local¬ 
ities  in  a  regular  scale,  Mr.  Cumberland  advises  to  begin  at  the  village  of 
Tintern,  near  Chepstow,  which  is  richly  picturesque  and  rural,  where 
an  artist  possessed  of  the  rare  talent  of  nice  discrimination  might  soon  fill  his 
portfolio.  He  should  next  devote  three  or  four  days  to  Piercefield,  and  then 
ascend  the  Wye  from  Monmouth  as  far  as  Hereford  ;  next  trace  it  by 
Builth,  and  the  Hay,  to  Rhaiadyr,  taking  the  falls  of  Elian  on  the  way. 
Thence,  passing  by  the  picturesque  lake  and  torrent  of  Llyn  Gwyn  about 
2  m.  from  Rhaiadyr,  it  is  easy,  by  turning  a  little  over  to  the  r.,  to  regain  the 
high  road  to  Havod  and  Aberystwith. 

From  Havod  to  Rhaiadyr,  Mr.  Skrine  passed  through  the  village  of 
Cwmystwith,  almost  buried  beneath  high  hills,  and  entering  Radnorshire, 
coasted  the  river  Elan  for  several  miles.  Having  gained  the  summit  of  the 
Cwmtythan  Hills,  he  enjoyed  an  uninterrupted  retrospect  over  the  dreary 
expanse  he  had  passed.  On  the  banks  of  the  Elan,  a  Mr.  Grove  built  a 
house,  and  formed  an  ornamented  domain.  [See  Rhaiadyr.]  Except  this 
place  the  whole  track  appeared  bare  and  uncultivated ;  “  nor  do  I  ever  re¬ 
member,”  says  Mr.  Skrine,  a  more  dreary  solitude  than  that  which  pre¬ 
vailed  on  the  Cwmtythan,  where  not  a  single  tree  or  human  habitation 
varied  the  scene.  At  last,  however,  a  glorious  view  was  disclosed  over  the  spa¬ 
cious  plain  through  which  the  W ye  flows,  including  the  town  of  Rhaiadyr, 
which  place  he  entered  over  a  bridge  of  a  single  arch,  erected  in  1780. 

To  Tregaron,  18  miles.  Barber  ;  Evans.  To  Rhaiadyr,  17  miles.  Skrine. 

Pont-y-Mynach,  4  miles.  Malkin  ;  Warner’s  Aberystwith,  14  miles, 
two  walks  j  Lipscomb. 


HARLECH. 


From  Maentwrog,  9  miles.  Bingley  ;  Skrine. 

Maentwrog,  by  way  of  Rhaiadyr-du,  12 
miles.  Wyndham ;  Pugh. 


From  Barmoutli,  10  miles.  Pennant ;  Evans.  ' 
Penmorfa,  7  miles.  Warner. 


HARLECH,  or  Harddlecii,  a  Bold  Rock,”  is  in  the  hundred  of  Ar- 
dudwy,  county  of  Merioneth,  and  parish  of  Llandanwg. 

The  town,  though  made  a  free  borough  by  Edward  I  ,  who  bestowed  on 


HARLECH. 


277 

it  grants  of  lands  and  various  other  inconsiderable  immunities^  is  reduced 
to  a  village  of  insignificant  appearance.  The  principal  Inn  is  the  Blue 
Lion;  where  a  guide  or  post  chaise  may  be  had.  The  population  appears 
to  be  so  small  that  it  did  not  become  an  object  of  separate  enumeration  ; 
it  was  included  in  the  returns  of  Llandanwg.  The  market-day  is  Satur¬ 
day,  and  fairs  are  holden  March  4.,  April  I9.,  first  Thursday  after  Trinity 
Sunday,  June  SO.,  Aug.  21.,  Sept.  22.,  Nov.  10.,  Dec.  11.  It  is  remark¬ 
able  for  nothing  besides  a  Castle,  built  upon  a  cliff  oveihanging  a  sandy 
marsh  extending  several  miles,  formerly  occupied  by  the  sea,  but  en¬ 
closed  in  I8O6.  The  name  of  this  fortress  is  said  to  be  derived  from  its 
situation,  originally  called  Twr  Bronwen,  from  Bronwen,  the  Fair 
Neck,’’  sister  to  Bran  ap  Llyr,  Prince  of  Siluria,  and  father  of  Carac- 
tacus.  In  the  11th  century  it  was  denominated  Caer  Collwyn,  from  Coll- 
wyn  ap  Tangno,  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes  of  N.  Wales.  Fie  lived  in  the 
time  of  Anarawd,  about  a.  d.  877?  and  resided  in  Bronwen’s  Tower.  His 
grandchildren  Asser,  Meirion,  and  Gwgan,  the  sons  of  Merwidd  ap  Colwyn, 
lived  in  the  beginning  of  Gryffydd  ap  Cynan’s  reign.  These  children  dwelt 
in  Llyn,  as  appears  from  an  old  work  entitled  the  Life  of  Gryffydd  ap 
Cynan.” 

According  to  some  of  the  British  historians,  Harlech  Castle  was  built 
by  Maelgwyn  Gwynedd,  Prince  of  N.  Wales,  about  the  year  530,  and  it 
is  generally  believed  that  Edward  I.  erected  this  castle  upon  the  ruins  of  the 
former.  It  appears  to  have  been  completed  prior  to  the  year  1283,  for  at 
that  time  Hugh  de  Wlonkeslow  was  constable  with  a  small  garrison,  and 
enjoyed  an  income  of  100^.  In  the  44<th  year  of  Elizabeth,  the  constable’s 
allowance  was  no  more  than  501.  In  1404,  this  castle,  along  with  that  of 
Aberystwith,  in  Cardiganshire,  was  seized  by  Owain  Glyndwr,  during  his 
rebellion  against  Henry  IV.  They  were  both  retaken  about  four  years 
afterwards  by  an  army  which  the  king  despatched  into  Wales. 

Margaret  of  Anjou,  the  spirited  queen  of  Henry  VL,  after  the  king’s 
defeat  at  Northampton  in  146'0,  fled  from  Coventry,  and  found  an  asylum 
in  this  fortress.  Edward  IV.  expected  to  make  himself  master  of  every 
part  of  the  kingdom,  but  Dafydd  ap  lefan  ap  Einion,  a  friend  to  the  House 
of  Lancaster,  held  out  in  this  castle  till  1468.  The  castle  was  however  at 
last  surrendered  to  an  army  under  the  command  of  William  Herbert,  Earl 
of  Pembroke.  During  the  civil  wars,  this  fortress  was  ably  defended  by 
Sir  Hugh  Pennant,  till  deserted  by  his  men,  when  it  fell  into  the  possession 
of  the  parliamentary  forces  ;  it  was  subsequently  repossessed  by  the  royal¬ 
ists  ;  and  ultimately  taken  in  March,  l647?  by  a  force  under  General  Mytton. 
It  was  the  last  castle  in  Wales  which  held  out  for  the  king,  and  appears  to 
have  been  among  the  last  defended  for  the  House  of  Lancaster.  The  pre¬ 
sent  constable  is  Colonel  Vaughan  of  Rhug.  This  castle  is  utterly  unassail¬ 
able  on  the  side  overhanging  the  sea,  and  on  the  other  it  was  protected  by 
a  prodigious  wide  and  deep  foss,  cut  at  an  immense  expense  through  the 
solid  rock.  Even  now  it  exhibits  a  grand  square  building,  a  circular  tower 
at  each  corner,  and  one  bastion  on  each  side  of  the  grand  entrance,  with 
elegant  machiolated  turrets,  issuing  out  of  the  large  rounders,  similar  to 
those  of  Caernarvon  and  Conwy.  It  is,  however,  going  quickly  to  decay. 

The  Church,  now  much  cut  of  repair,  is  placed  in  an  extreme  corner  of 
the  Parish,  so  far  from,  and  owing  to  the  badness  of  the  roads,  so  inac¬ 
cessible  to  the  bulk  of  the  population,  that  a  new  structure  is  in  contem¬ 
plation. 

Roman  coins  having  been  discovered  here,  Flarlech  is  conjectured  to  have 
been  a  fortified  post  of  the  Romans,  formed  to  defend  the  openings  of  the 

T  3 


278  HARLECH. 

two  Treuthyz,  and  secure  a  communication  with  the  opposite  shore ;  it  was 
certainly  an  early  British  post. 

From  the  castle^  if  the  atmosphere  happens  to  be  clear^  may  be  seen  the 
whole  extent  of  the  promontory  of  Llyn^  and  with  the  beautiful  chain  of 
hills  rising  from  Bardsey  Island,  to  the  peaked  summit  of  Snowdon.  The 
bay  and  isles  of  St.  Tudwal,  the  town  of  Pwllheli  and  Crugcaith  Castle. 
On  the  r.  is  Penmorfa  and  the  new  town  of  Tre-Maddock  (near  which  is 
the  embankment,  made  at  an  immense  expense,  with  the  design  of  gaining 
Traeth  Mawr  and  Traeth  Bach  from  the  sea),  and  the  whole  of  Caernarvon 
Bay. 

About  Harlech  grows  Eryngium  maritimum  ;  near  the  castle  Sambucus 
ehulus,  and  Brassica  oleracea ;  and  within  Circaea  lutetiana  ,*  upon  the  walls. 
Sisymbrium  tenuifolium ;  among  rubbish  on  the  marsh,  Borago  officinalis  ; 
in  the  marsh,  Anthemis  mobilis ;  upon  banks  by  the  road-side  near  the 
town.  Astragalus  hypoglottis ;  on  the  coast,  Juncus  glaucus. 

Near  Harlech  is  a  curious  antique  monument,  called  Coeden  Arthu?^,  con¬ 
sisting  of  a  large  flat  stone,  lying  horizontally,  supported  by  three  others. 
The  supporters  are  about  twenty  inches  square,  two  of  them  are  8  ft. 
high;  and  the  incumbent  stone,  inclining  to  an  oval,  is  11  ft.  in 
length.  About  l692,  an  ancient  golden  Torques  was  dug  up  in  a  garden 
near  the  castle,  described  as  a  round  wreathed  flexible  bar,  about  four  feet 
long,  composed  of  three  or  four  rods  twisted  together,  running  its  entire 
length ;  the  ends  are  plain,  truncated,  and  turned  back  like  pot-hooks. 
It  is  about  an  inch  in  circumference,  weighs  eight  ounces,  and  supposed 
to  have  been  a  Roman  British  ornamental  badge  of  dignity,  hung  round 
the  neck  and  breast  with  a  quiver  attached  to  it  from  behind.  This  valu¬ 
able  relic  of  antiquity  is  in  the  possession  of  Edward  Mostyn  Lloyd  Mos- 
tyn.  Esq.  Several  Roman  coins  have  also  been  found  within  and  near  the 
town.  Not  far  from  the  castle  is  an  old  roofless  building,  once  the  town- 
hall,  in  which  it  is  said  the  members  of  parliament  for  Merionethshire 
continue  to  be  elected. 

In  the  winter  of  1694,  this  neighbourhood  was  much  alarmed  by  a  kind 
of  Mephitic  Vapour,  which  arose  from  a  marshy  tract  of  land,  called  Morfa 
Bychan,  ‘‘the  Little  Marsh,”  across  the  channel,  8  m.  towards  Harlech,  and 
injured  much  of  the  country,  by  poisoning  the  grass  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  kill  the  cattle,  firing  hay  and  corn  ricks  nearly  a  mile  from  the  coast. 
It  is  described  as  having  the  appearance  of  a  weak  blue  flame,  which  by  the 
firing  of  guns,  or  the  sounding  of  horns,  was  easily  extinguished.  All  the 
damage  was  done  invariably  in  the  night,  and  in  the  course  of  the  winter 
not  less  than  sixteen  hay-ricks  and  two  barns,  one  filled  with  corn  and  the 
other  with  hay,  were  burnt  by  it.  It  did  not  appear  to  affect  any  thing 
else,  and  men  could  go  into  it  without  receiving  any  injury.  It  was  ob¬ 
served  at  different  times  during  eight  months.  The  occasion  of  this  singular 
phenomenon  has  not  been  accurately  ascertained. 

The  vicinity  of  Harlech  abounds  with  numerous  monumental  remains, 
particularly  such  as  have  been  thought  to  have  originated  in  the  Druidic  rites. 
On  the  ascent  and  summit  of  a  precipitous  hill  are  several  circles  formed  of 
loose  stones,  placed  at  certain  distances.  Of  these  some  are  single,  others 
concentric,  one  circle  being  inscribed  within  a  second  ;  in  other  places  one 
intersects  another.  One  of  the  double  kind  is  upon  an  elevated  moor 
overlooking  the  town.  Most  of  these  have  a  Maen  hir,  or  upright  stone 
placed  in  the  centre.  Some  of  them  were  probably  the  work  of  shepherds, 
to  clear  the  land  for  pasturage,  or  Druidic  circles,  in  which  were  held  the 
bardic  meetings,  termed  Gorseddau.  Borlase  mentions  several  instances  of 


HARLECH.  279 

such  circles  in  the  vicinity  of  Botallek  in  CornwalI_,  which  he  thinks  w^ere 
formed  for  the  performance  of  religious  rites. 

Cwm  By  chan,  or  the  Little  Hollow,  lies  about  4  m.  distant.  1  m.  from 
the  town,  Richards,  who  was  the  guide,  pointed  out  a  circle  of  stones  30 
yards  in  diameter.  Cwm  Bychan  is  a  narrow  grassy  dell,  opening  with  a 
small  pool  or  lake,  on  the  r.  called  Llyn-y-cwm-bychan,  and  though  not  a 
mile  in  length,  is  encompassed  with  scenery  the  most  black  and  dreary. 
Among  the  impending  rocks  is  Careg-y-saeth,  “  the  Rock  of  the  Arrow,’* 
being  a  station  formerly  taken  by  British  sportsmen  for  watching  and  kill¬ 
ing  red  deer,  towering  above  the  rest  in  frowning  dignity.  From  another 
crag  beside  the  lake  the  rugged  beauties  of  this  romantic  hollow  may  be 
viewed,  enclosed  by  stupendous  rocks,  relieved  scantily  with  meagre  patches 
of  vegetation.  On  the  other  side  of  the  mountain  is  a  chasm  called  Bwlch- 
tyddiad.  The  sequestered  retirement  of  Cwm  Bychan  is  the  property  of  a 
family  named  Llwyd,  who  derive  their  descent  from  Cynfyn,  Prince  of 
N.  Wales.  The  mansion  is  an  unadulterated  specimen  of  the  seats  of  the 
ancient  Welsh  gentry;  the  furniture  rude,  and  the  mode  of  living  suitable 
to  the  circumstances  of  the  place.  Descending  the  adjoining  mountainous 
ridge,  an  ancient  arch  thrown  from  rock  to  rock,  over  a  dismal  water,  excites 
a  gloom  which  is  quickly  relieved  by  the  sight  of  a  mill  upon  a  collateral 
rock,  accessible  only  by  this  alpine  bridge.  A  few  venerable  oaks  relieve 
the  rugged  scenery  of  the  place.  Ascend  a  hill  called  Dinas  Porchellyn, 
whence  the  distant  horizon  exhibits  a  wild  space  of  rocky  mountains  and 
desert  heaths.  This  pass  and  that  of  Drws  Ardudwy,  Door  of  Ardudwy,” 
were  anciently  fortified.  They  are  openings  through  the  vast  ridges  of 
elevated  land,  which  intersect  this  country  in  almost  every  direction ;  and 
present  a  most  formidable  appearance.  The  sides  and  bottom  of  Drws 
Ardudwy  are  covered  with  huge  stones,  imbedded  in  a  mass  of  others  of  a 
smaller  size.  The  road  is  a  narrow  horse-path  upon  the  side  of  the  slippery 
rock ;  in  others  it  assumes  the  form  of  narrow  flights  of  steps.  Between 
this  pass  and  Cors-y-gedol  are  two  small  lakes,  or  rather  pools.  Llyn 
Bodlyn  lies  beneath  an  abrupt  precipice,  and  abounds  with  char,  trout,  and 
eels.  Llyn-cwm-Howel  is  noted  for  a  singularly  deformed  species  of  trout. 
Another  small  lake  is  called  Llyn  Irddin;  trout  and  eels.  Upon  this  plain 
are  numerous  Druidic  remains.  Perhaps  in  no  part  of  Britain  is  such  an 
assemblage.  Traversing  this  dreary  waste,  the  traveller’s  attention  will  be 
arrested  by  Craig -y-dinas.  Its  summit  is  surrounded  by  a  vast  heap  of 
rough  stones,  supposed  to  have  been  an  ancient  British  fortress,  at  the  pe¬ 
riod  of  the  Roman  invasion.  It  has  an  oblique  entrance  with  stone  facings ; 
near  it  are  two  similar  stone  ramparts.  The  situation  is  upon  the  extreme 
verge  of  a  mountain  adjoining  one  of  those  narrow  passes,  which  form  defiles 
into  the  interior  of  the  country.  Upon  another  eminence,  at  no  great  dis¬ 
tance,  is  Castell-dinas-Cortin,  an  entrenched  camp,  with  an  advanced  work 
in  front.  Upon  the  plain  beneath  are  several  Druidic  remains,  such  as 
cromlechau,  carneddau,  stone  circles,  and  meini-hirion. 

After  regaling  himself  at  the  farm  house  in  Drws  Ardudwy,  Mr.  Pugh 
crossed  the  road  from  Maentwrog  to  Dolgelly,  and  advanced  up  the  country 
to  Pistyll-y-Caen  and  Rhaiadyr-y-Mawddach,  returning  by  the  side  of  the 
Mawddach  to  Dol-y-Melyn-Llyn  ;  and  recrossing  the  same  river,  he  came 
again  into  the  turnpike-road  to  Rhaiadyr-Du,  upon  the  furious  river  Gamlan, 
He  thence  passed  to  the  Dolgelly  road,  under  the  woods  to  Dol-y-Melyn- 
Llyn,  with  the  Mawddach  on  his  left. 

Mr,  Bingley  made  an  excursion  to  Cwm  Bychan.  After  visiting  the 

T  4 


280 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


dreary  hollow  which  was  the  object  of  his  pursuit^  he  entered  a  vale  more 
wide  and  fertile^  called  Cwm-nant-col,  “  the  Hollow  of  the  Sunken  Brook.” 

To  Barmouth.  Out  of  the  track_,  2  m.  s.  of  Harlech,  is  a  cromlech,  in 
a  farm  called  Gwern  Einion.  On  the  side  of  the  hill  along  which  the  road 
passes,  in  a  wood,  is  a  considerable  cataract.  Mr.  T.  Evans,  in  his  ‘‘  Cam¬ 
brian  Itinerary,”  calls  this  Rhaiadyr  Du,  or  the  Black  Cataract,  and  describes 
it  as  follows:  —  In  this  cataract,  surrounded  by  dark  impending  scenery, 
the  water  is  thrown  with  vast  impetuosity.  Little  attaches  to  this  mansion 
except  the  fine  wood  which  surrounds  it.  These  are  so  much  affected  by 
the  w.  winds,  which  blow  from  the  sea,  that  the  tops  of  the  trees  are  stunted, 
like  those  at  Margam  in  Glamorganshire.  Llandanwg,  at  the  distance  of 
nearly  2  m.,  is  the  parish  church  of  Barmouth.  At  a  short  distance  from 
the  5th  milestone,  a  little  to  the  1.  of  the  road,  are  two  cromlechs,  near 
each  other.” 

The  road  to  Maentwrog  lies  up  an  arduous  path,  on  the  side  of  a 
craggy  mountain,  in  a  n.  e.  direction,  over  a  trackless  plain,  known  to 
guides  by  Meini-hirion,  and  concentric  circles  of  stone.  A  tumulus  and 
carnedd,  larger  than  the  others,  is  styled  King  Ingo  s  Tomb.  The  place  is 
also  called  Bon-lleff-liir ,  or  the  Loud  Shout  to  Battle.”  A  columnar  stone 
is  reared  here  of  an  unusual  size,  probably  in  memory  of  a  chief  who  fell 
in  battle.  A  road  leads  hence  to  Glyn,  a  seat  of  Robert  Godolphin  Owen, 
Esq.,  situated  in  a  romantic  well-wooded  bottom ;  it  formerly  belonged  to 
the  ancient  family  of  Wynne,  whence  it  passed,  by  marriage,  to  Sir  Robert 
Owen. 

About  the  end  of  the  6th  m.  is  the  small  lake  called  Llyn  Tegwedd-isav, 
and  near  it  the  little  village  and  church  of  Llan  Tegweddj  a  little  farther, 
surrounded  by  lofty  mountains,  is  the  fine  lake  of  Llyn-Tegwedd-uchav, 

Fair  and  Lovely,”  a  name  which  this  secluded  and  enchanting  scene  well 
deserves.  The  road  is  a  narrow  path  along  the  shelf  of  a  rocky  declivity, 
after  which  it  descends  into  a  deep  glen,  thick  with  trees.  Passing  over  a 
black  stream  called  Felyn  Rhyd,  “  the  Yellow  Ford,”  the  turnpike  is  passed 
near  the  village  of  Maentwrog,  where  there  are  comfortable  accommodations. 
The  inn  of  T an-y-Bwlch  lies  over  a  bridge  of  three  arches  across  the 
Dwyryd,  at  the  distance  of  m. 

Angling  Stations.  —  Llanfihangel-y-Traethan,  3  m.,  on  the  Dwyryd; 
Lampeter,  S  m.,  salmon,  trout,  and  eels. 


To  Cwm  Bychan,  &c.,  and  back  to  Harlech,  20 
miles  j  thence  to  Barmouth,  10  miles.  Bing- 
ley. 

Tan-y-Bwlch,  10  miles.  Evans. 

Barmouth,  10  miles.  Warner. 


To  Maentwrog,  9  miles.  Pennant. 

Back  to  Tan-y-Bwlch,  13  miles.  Wyndham  j 
Skrine. 

LhiniUtyd,  by  Barmouth,  19^  miles.  Pugh. 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


From  Milford,  8  miles.  Barber  ;  Evans  ;  Skrine  ; 
Fenton. 

Back  from  Carew  Castle.  Fenton. 

From  St.  David’s,  14  miles.  Malkin. 


From  Pembroke,  by  water,  1.5  miles.  Wyndham. 
Pembroke,  by  the  turnpike-road,  10  miles. 
Narberth,  lOi  miles. 

Cardigan,  28a  miles. 


HAVERFORDWEST,  called  by  the  'Welsh  Hwlfordd,  is  a  sea-port 
borough  and  market-town  ;  and  contained,  in  1831,  3.915  inhabitants;  it 
returns  one  member  to  parliament.  Beautifully  situated  upon  an  eminence 
above  the  navigable  river  Cleddy,  the  capital  of  the  possessions  of  the 
Flemings,  granted  to  them  in  the  time  of  William  Rufus  and  his  son 
Henry,  Haverfordwest  was  certainly  well  placed  for  the  purpose  of  de- 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


281 


fending  the  promontory  of  Rhos^  which,  after  expelling  the  inhabitants,  they 
began  to  occupy.  (^Holli risked,  ii.  Sf.) 

With  Haverfordwest,  even  from  its  earliest  date,  there  has  been  some¬ 
thing  of  importance  always  connected,  which  proves  that  certain  advantages 
attach  to  it.  The  most  apparent  of  these  are  its  central  situation  with 
respect  to  the  county,  its  conveniences  for  commerce,  and  the  salubrity  of 
of  its  air.  The  lordship  or  barony  continued  a  gem  in  the  crown  for  several 
centuries.  If  we  include  the  suburbs  of  Prendergast  and  Cartlett,  the  town 
is  unquestionably  the  largest  in  the  county. 

The  principal  portion  lies  upon  a  steep  declivity,  facing  the  e.  and 
commanding  a  view  of  the  mountains,  sloping  down  to  the  Western  Cleddy 
river.  High  Street  and  Market  Street,  are  so  steep  as  to  be  unpleasant  to 
the  foot-passenger,  and  dangerous  to  riders ;  but  their  great  inclination 
contributes  to  the  cleanliness  and  health  of  the  town. 

The  inhabitants  derive  their  chief  support  from  the  influx  of  travellers 
passing  between  Milford  Haven  and  Waterford,  Wexford,  Cork,  &c.  For 
this  purpose  government  packets  sail  daily  between  the  haven  and  these 
places.  Here  is  also  a  mail  coach  which  forms  a  continual  communication 
between  this  place  and  the  metropolis,  Carmarthen,  Swansea,  and  Bristol. 

The  town  had  once  several  chartered  companies,  the  shoemaker’s  only 
has  survived.  On  Glyndwr’s  insurrection  the  town  of  Haverfordwest,  was 
garrisoned  for  Edward  IV.,  where  the  Earl  of  Arundel  made  a  gallant 
defence  against  the  French  forces,  which  had  been  sent  to  the  assistance  of 
the  Welsh  insurgents.  In  the  civil  wars  this  castle  was  garrisoned  for  the  king. 
Sir  John  Stepney  being  governor.  It  was  fortified  by  a  very  strong  Castle, 
built  upon  a  rocky  eminence  overhanging  part  of  the  town  and  river,  and 
surrounded  by  an  embattled  wall,  entered  by  four  gates.  Besides  the  keep, 
a  spacious  quadrangular  pile,  little  more  of  the  castle  remains.  These 
fragments  indicate  that  it  once  extended  from  St.  Martin’s  eastward, 
towards  the  river,  having  on  each  side  a  deep  ravine,  of  which  the 
margin  was  followed  by  the  outer  wall,  flanked  with  bastions.  The  re¬ 
maining  superb  portion  of  the  castle  has  been  converted  into  a  county  gaol, 
without  diminishing  the  interest  which  attaches  to  such  noble  relics  of 
ancient  baronial  splendour.  The  only  objection  that  can  be  made  to  the 
alterations  in  this  structure,  is  that  the  modern  additions  are  not  in  unison 
with  the  architecture.  Such  outrages  against  good  taste,  are  however,  less  fre¬ 
quent,  and  will  be  so  as  science  advances  and  prevails.  This  fortress  is  ascribed 
to  Gilbert  de  Clare,  first  Earl  of  Pembroke,  who  made  Haverford  his  occa¬ 
sional  residence,  and  appointed  Richard  Fitz  Tancred  castellan  or  governor. 

James  I.  in  the  seventh  year  of  his  reign  granted  Haverfordwest  a  new 
charter,  accompanied  by  the  appointment  of  a  mayor,  sheriff,  two  bailiffs, 
and  twenty-four  common  council-men.  Then  Haverfordwest  became  a 
distinct  town  and  county.  This  charter  also  appointed  twenty-four 
common  council  men,  of  whom  fifteen  are  styled  aldermen,  assisted  by  a 
townclerk,  chamber-reeve,  two  sergeants  at  mace,  &c.  The  mayor  for  the 
time  being  and  his  immediate  predecessor,  for  one  year  only,  after  the 
expiration  of  his  mayoralty,  are  justices  of  the  peace  within  the  limits  of  the 
town  and  county  of  the  town,  within  which  the  magistrates  of  the  county 
of  Pembroke  have  no  concurrent  jurisdiction.  There  is  a  remarkable  echo 
on  the  s.  side  of  the  castle. 

In  the  town  are  three  churches,  respectively  dedicated  to  St.  Mary, 
SL  Thomas,  and  St.  Martin  ;  the  Church  of  Prendergast  is  suburban.  In 
Bridge  Street  there  was  a  house  of  Friars  Preachers ;  and  without  the 
town,  on  the  banks  of  the  river  in  a  meadow  below  the  quays,  was  a 


282 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


Priory  of  Black  canons^  founded  and  liberally  endowed  by  Robert  de 
Hwlfordd,  first  lord  of  Haverfordwest :  at  the  dissolution  of  monastic 
institutions  it  was  granted  to  Roger  and  Thomas  Barlow.  From  the 
remains  of  the  walls  and  foundations  of  ancient  buildings  yet  standing,  and 
the  skeleton  of  a  church,  the  establishment  appears  to  have  been  very 
extensive.  A  dockyard  now  occupies  the  sacred  precincts.  A  good  view 
of  the  church  is  given  in  Mr.  Fenton’s  Pembrokeshire sketched  from 
the  marsh  towards  the  s.  e. 

The  living  of  St.  Mary's  is  a  perpetual  curacy.  The  church,  situated  at 
the  upper  end  of  High-Street,  is  much  intercepted  by  the  Town  Hall.  It 
however  bears  the  air  of  a  venerable  cathedral-like  edifice,  being  leaded, 
and  having  a  parapet.  The  doorway  consists  of  a  pointed  arch  with 
mouldings  and  other  decorations.  The  nave  is  lofty,  ceiled  with  panelled 
oak  ;  it  is  enriched  with  knots  of  carved  foliage,  similar  to  those  in  the 
chancel  of  St.  David’s,  and  is  separated  from  the  side  aisle  by  pointed 
arches,  resting  on  clustered  pillars,  adorned  by  sculptured  capitals,  the 
figures  on  which  are  concealed  by  the  incrustation  of  whitewash.  It  is 
lighted  by  a  range  of  elevatory  windows.  A  very  lofty  arch  of  the  same 
character  separates  the  nave  from  the  chancel.  The  latter  is  lofty  ;  the 
ceiling  is  formed  of  plain  oak  beams  without  ornament.  On  each  side  of 
the  entrance  into  it  there  were  eight  stalls  of  ancient  oak  ;  those  on  the  n. 
side  still  exist,  and  the  others  have  been  displaced  by  a  modern  pew.  The 
nave  and  chancel  have  an  upper  tier  of  windows  above  the  arches ;  some 
are  lancet-shaped,  and  others  of  a  later  period.  The  e.  window  is  large, 
and  the  stone  tracery  rich.  The  spacious  tower  of  the  church  was  formerly 
surmounted  by  a  spire  of  considerable  height,  which  contributed  much  to 
the  good  appearance  of  the  town  ;  in  consequence  of  the  damage  it  received 
during  a  violent  storm,  it  has  been  taken  down.  This  living  is  a  rectory  in 
the  gift  of  the  corporation.  The  monuments  are  confined  to  the  chancel  : 
those  relating  to  the  family  at  Picton  Castle  are  splendid.  A  well-executed 
effigy  has  been  distastefully  thrown  among  lumber  at  the  e.  end  of  the 
church  to  make  way  for  the  remains  of  Sir  John  Pryse,  of  Newton  Hall, 
Montgomeryshire,  who  lived  some  time,  and  at  length  died,  here.  His 
family  was  ancient,  and  a  strong  tinge  of  Quixotism  was  apparent  in  his  cha¬ 
racter.  At  the  w.  end  of  this  church  is  a  handsome  gallery  surmounted  by  a 
fine  organ.  St.  Martins  C/mrc/i  appears  to  have  been  an  ancient  appendage 
to  the  castle.  It  consists  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  s.  aisle,  having  a  tower 
terminating  in  a  spire.  The  nave  and  chancel  are  extensive  and  lofty,  the 
latter  is  separated  by  a  fine  old  arch,  which  reaches  to  the  roof.  Many  of 
the  windows  are  walled  up  ;  others  are  contra<cted  or  transformed.  In  the 
chancel  the  recessed  stalls  on  the  s.  side  for  the  officiating  priests  are  in  a 
perfect  state  ;  on  the  n.  under  a  plain  canopy,  is  a  broad  tomb  of  grey 
stone,  much  defaced.  The  dates  on  it  do  not  accord  with  its  antiquity. 
There  is  also  in  the  chancel  a  marble  tablet  which  memorialises  some  indi¬ 
viduals  of  the  family  of  Le  Hunt ;  another  appears  to  the  memory  of 
a  clergyman  named  Harries,  but  named  Parson  Vigo,  from  the  circum¬ 
stance  of  his  having  been  chaplain  on  board  a  man-of  war  at  the  taking  of 
that  place.  This  living  once  was  attached  to  the  priory  of  Haverfordwest, 
but  is  noAV  a  vicarage  in  the  patronage  of  Hugh  Webb  Bowen,  Esq. 

Upon  the  summit  of  the  hill,  the  acclivity  of  which  is  occupied  by  the 
principal  part  of  the  town,  stands  the  Church  of  St.  Thomas,  and  is  said  to 
have  been  built  about  1225.  If  the  same  structure  styled  in  the  annals  of 
St  David,  novum  opus  majoris  ecclesife  S*^‘.  Thomte  Haverfordiie,”  it  is 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


283 


more  probable  that  the  priory  was  named  “  opus  majoi'is  ecclesiae.’*  The 
J'own  Hall  is  a  respectable  building,  but  so  ill  placed  as  to  obstruct  a 
view  of  the  e.  end  of  St.  Mary’s  church.  The  Old  Gaol  joined  the 
churchyard  wall  of  St.  Mary’s ;  but  a  new  fabric,  now  devoted  to  the 
purposes  of  a  lunatic  asylum,  was  subsequently  erected  on  St.  Thomas's 
Green,  in  an  airy  situation  unblemished  by  the  faults  of  the  former 
structure.  The  Free  Grammar  School  produces  an  income  of  about  145/. 
per  annum.  A  scholarship  is  attached.  Among  the  charitable  institutions 
in  the  town,  there  is  an  almshouse  and  school  for  clothing  and  educating 
24  boys  and  12  girls,  in  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic,  supported  by  a 
bequest  of  Mrs.  Mary  Howard,  in  ]  684. 

There  are  meeting-houses  for  Presbyterians,  Baptists,  Moravians, 
Quakers,  and  the  various  shades  of  Methodism.  Here  is  a  Public  Walk, 
upon  an  eminence  above  the  river,  from  which  the  ruins  of  the  Priory  dis¬ 
close  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains,  and  other  striking  distant  objects  com¬ 
bined  with  the  beautiful  windings  of  the  river  below.  This  promenade  is 
capable  of  great  extension  and  improvement.  Commodiously  as  the  town 
is  situated,  yet  its  obvious  natural  advantages  with  respect  to  water  and 
shipping,  have  never  been  duly  estimated  and  turned  to  account. 

The  Port  is  dependent  on  that  of  Milford,  but  from  its  central  situation 
attracts  considerable  trade.  The  river  is  navigable  to  the  bridge  for  barges. 

The  principal  Inns  are  the  Castle  and  Mariners.  The  Markets,  on 
Tuesday  and  Saturday,  are  supplied  abundantly  with  fish,  butcher’s  meat, 
and  poultry.  Fairs  for  the  sale  of  horses,  cattle,  sheep  and  pigs,  are  held 
on  May  12.,  June  12.,  July  18.,  Sept.  23.,  and  Oct.  18.  Another  toll-free 
has  been  lately  established.  The  Assizes  for  the  county  of  Pembroke, 
and  for  the  town  and  county  of  the  town  of  Haverfordwest,  are  held  in 
the  parish  of  St.  Mary.  The  Assembly  Rooms  are  considered  the  best  in 
S.  Wales.  Races  take  place  on  Poorfield,  or  Portfield,  in  autumn.  The 
Pembrokeshire  Hunt  has  its  meetings  here. 

Prenderyast  forms  one  of  the  suburbs,  and  derives  its  appellation  from  a 
family  of  that  name,  one  of  whom  annexed  the  advowson  and  tithes  of  its 
church  to  the  commandery  of  Slebech ;  but  following  the  standard  of 
Strongbow,  he  transplanted  his  family  to  Ireland.  Their  successors  in  the 
property  were  the  Joyces,  Cadarnes,  or  Cathernes,  and  the  Stepneys,  who 
sold  it.  The  church,  dedicated  to  St.  David,  is  a  low  turretted  structure  ; 
a  side  aisle  of  the  nave  is  separated  by  circular  arches  resting  upon  round 
clumsy  pillars,  with  circular  capitals.  It  contains  no  ancient  monuments  ; 
but  in  the  chancel  are  three  mural  marble  tablets  to  some  of  the  Picton 
family,  and  one  to  Lady  Philips,  wife  of  the  first  Sir  John;  she  was 
interred  at  St.  Mary’s.  The  following  epitaph  was  found  among  the  papers 
of  her  surviving  husband,  evidently  intended  to  have  been  inscribed  to  the 
memory  of  his  wife  :  — 

“  A  dearer  mother,  mistress,  wife,  or  friend, 

This  age  will  hardly  know  unless  it  mend  ; 
lire  voice  of  all  who  knew  her  this  confess’d. 

And  this  the  voice  of  him  who  knew  her  best. 

May  all  with  her  the  narrow  path  pursue. 

Changing  in  time  false  pleasures  for  the  true. 

And  while  they  are  on  earth  have  heaven  in  view.” 

Descend  to  the  margin  of  some  rich  meadows,  on  the  banks  of  the  Cleddy  to 
the  small  remains  of  Prenderyast  Place,  inhabited  from  the  reign  of  Eliza¬ 
beth  to  that  of  Charles  11.,  by  the  Stepneys.  It  is  now  reduced  to  frag¬ 
ments.  Ray  visited  it  in  1662,  and  mentions  it  as  a  ‘Maire  house.” 

Return,  and  at  the  entrance  of  the  village  of  Cartleit  cross  the  river  by  a 


284 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


drawbridge,  and  thence  over  quays  to  a  path  which  commences  at  the 
ruins  of  the  priory  ;  following  the  base  of  the  hill  above  the  Priory  marsh, 
reach  Haroldstone,  for  300  years  the  residence  of  the  Perrotts.  The  man¬ 
sion  is  now  entirely  in  ruins.  Here  was  born  Sir  John  Perrott,  By  Edward 
VI.  he  was  created  knight  of  the  Bath.  In  Mary’s  time  he  was  a  courtier, 
and  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth  he  was  lord  deputy  of  Ireland.  This  office 
involved  him  in  the  common  fate  of  favourites,  persecution  and  disgrace. 
Ill  1588  he  was  recalled,  in  1592  arraigned  at  Westminster,  and  found 
guilty  of  high  treason.  He  died  in  the  Tower,  which  saved  him  from  the 
ignominy  of  a  scaffold.  An  anonymous  biographer  has  drawn  a  portrait  of 
his  person  and  character,  in  a  volume  published  by  Richard  Rawlinson,  LL.D. 
of  St.  John’s  Coll.  Oxon  ;  his  character  also  appears  in  Sir  Robert  Nounton’s 
Regalia, who  lived  near  his  time;  it  was  likewise  drawn  by  Lloyd,  not  long 
after.  About  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century,  on  the  marriage  of  Hester, 
the  heiress  of  the  estate,  with  Sir  John  Packington,  Bart.,  of  Westwood,  in 
Worcestershire,  Haroldstone  was  deserted,  but  continued  to  be  let.  The 
church  is  remarkable  only  as  connected  with  the  legend  of  Caradog,  the  pa¬ 
tron  saint  of  Lawrenny,  who  had  his  cell  near  it,  and  was  canonised  at  the 
solicitation  of  Giraldus  Cambrensis. 

From  Haverfordwest  Mr.  Fenton  made  an  Excursion,  following  the 
course  of  the  Cleddy,  and  round  by  the  mountains  back.  Crossing  the 
Cleddy,  take  the  road  through  Prendergast,  a  village  consisting  of  one  long 
street,  or  two  rows  of  houses,  through  which  lies  the  great  n.  road;  one 
part  branches  to  Cardigan,  the  other  to  Fishguard. 

Taking  the  Fishguard  branch,  about  1^  m.  beyond  its  commencement, 
pass  Withyhush  Lodge^  Rev.  Thomas  Martin,  surrounded  by  extensive 
plantations  of  fir.  A  little  further  to  the  r.  occurs  Poyston,  a  good  family 
mansion,  also  the  property  of  that  gentleman,  and  the  birthplace  of  the 
late  Lieut.  Gen.  Sir  Thomas  Picton,  G.  C.  B.,  who  fell  in  the  battle  of 
Waterloo.  To  the  1.  in  a  hollow,  the  inconsiderable  relic  of  Fletheydiill,  in 
the  17th  century  the  property  of  the  Haywards;  the  heiress  of  this  estate 
married  Sir  Watkin  Lewis.  The  principal  tenure  on  this  demesne  is 
Rudbaxton,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  tenements  in  the  county.  The 
Church  is  not  distinguished  by  any  architectural  peculiarities.  The  living 
is  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  the  crown.  Figures  coarsely  traced  upon  the  walls 
commemorate  some  of  the  Haywards.  In  the  chancel  is  a  monument  to  Dr. 
Pritchard.  Opposite  to  the  entrance  into  the  churchyard  is  a  large  mound, 
probably  sepulchral,  or  the  site  of  a  castelet.  Three  miles  n.  e.  of  Haver¬ 
fordwest  is  an  encampment  called  the  Rhdth.  Proceed  towards  Trefgarn, 
the  Town  of  the  Rock,”  through  a  long  line  of  wood  above  the  Cleddy, 
here  contracted  by  the  opposite  Cyffern,  Plumbstone,  Lewiston,  and  Tref¬ 
garn  mountains.  Little  Trefgarn,  a  single  m.ansion  on  the  top  of  the  hill, 
E.  of  the  vale,  was  held  under  lease,  from  the  Precentor  of  St.  David’s, 
by  John  Edwards,  Esq.  His  ancestor  made  it  his  residence,  and  his  de¬ 
scendants  for  2  centuries  continued  to  inhabit  it.  The  present  proprietor, 
however,  relinquished  it  in  favour  of  Sealyham,  the  seat  of  his  lady  ;  and 
in  consequence.  Little  Trefgarn  is  now  occupied  as  a  farm-house.  The 
bishop  of  St.  David’s  claims  the  game  of  this  forest  to  supply  the 
luxury  of  his  table,  giving  the  precentor  in  lieu  of  it  20  marks.  Great 
Trefgarn  lies  at  the  back  of  the  wood.  The  village  is  on  the  w\  side  of  the 
river,  containing  a  few  houses,  and  a  church,  of  which  the  living  is  a  rectory, 
in  the  gift  of  Dr.  Evans,  who  is  the  proprietor  of  Trefgarn  Hall,  and  the 
whole  parish.  Some  old  encampments  formerly  traceable  here  are  now 
levelled.  Upon  a  high  ridge  of  waste  ground,  where  the  Plumbstone 


PIAVEllFORDWEST. 


285 


mountain  terminates,  stand  the  Trefgarn  Rocks,  having  the  appearance  of 
ruined  towers,  forming  striking  objects  to  a  considerable  distance.  Where 
the  new  road  terminates,  a  pass  was  cut  through  a  projection  of  the  rocky 
precipice  which  overhangs  this  river.  Rasp,  the  mineralogist,  when  here, 
collected  some  fine  specimens  of  porphyry  and  jasper.  Beyond  1^  m.  is 
Rord  Chapel,  founded  in  l627:»  by  Margaret  Symmons  of  Martel,  for  the 
convenience  of  her  tenants.  From  hence  take  the  road  to  the  1.  to  examine 
a  field  where,  it  is  said,  stood  a  Roman  villa.  In  1 806  a  labourer  discovered 
a  great  number  of  Roman  bricks  and  stones,  the  latter  of  which  had  been 
exposed  to  the  action  of  fire.  Digging  deeper  he  disclosed  an  oblong  square 
pit,  lined  on  each  side  with  stone  and  mortar,  about  8  feet  long  and  6  high, 
wdth  flues.  This  pit  lies  at  the  distance  of  100  yards  from  an  old  encamp¬ 
ment.  In  the  intervening  space  several  fragments  of  wall  have  been  turned 
up.  To  the  w.  of  those  remains  on  an  uninclosed  spot  sloping  towards  the 
river,  and  facing  the  n.  are  the  remains  of  a  small  earth  work,  nearly 
square,  having  the  angles  rounded  and  encompassed  by  a  single  vallum. 
Return  to  the  village  and  cross  the  river,  pursuing  the  road,  which  keeps  the 
same  bearing  as  that  left  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  (showing  it¬ 
self  a  little  to  the  s.  of  the  field  containing  Roman  works),  till  you  reach  the 
Roman  station  of  Ad  Vigesimum  of  Richard  of  Cirencester,  lying  about 
1  m.  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  church  of  Ambleston,  or  Tref  Amlod.  It  is  a 
square  agger,  having  rounded  angles,  and  the  appearance  of  brick  and 
cement  is  evident  upon  its  surface  ;  it  includes  an  area  of  260  feet.  The 
present  mountain  road  passes  through  this  station,  and  a  little  farther  on, 
is  a  farm  called  Streetland.  The  spot  is  called  Castell  Flemish,  for  the  same 
reason  that  the  more  northerly  converging  road  is  named  Via  Flandrica, 
from  the  Flemings  who  galled  and  annoyed  the  Welsh.  It  has  been 
observed  that  the  unvarying  line  of  Roman  roads,  from  St.  David’s  to 
Carmarthen  is  more  direct  than  that  through  Haverfordwest.  Turning  n. 
cross  the  Sealy  to  Little  Newcastle,  a  poor  village,  consisting  of  a  few  strag¬ 
gling  houses,  a  church  in  the  patronage  of  T.  Williams,  Esq.,  and  a  large 
mound  in  the  centre,  which  probably  supported  a  defence.  It  received  the 
name  of  Newcastle,  to  distinguish  it  from  an  older  and  more  extensive 
work  above  the  village.  In  this  parish  was  Martel,  an  ancient  seat  of  the 
family  of  Symmons,  before  their  removal  to  Llanstinan  :  of  this  edifice  the 
site  only  remains.  Here  is  a  spring  which  ebbs  and  flows  regularly  with 
the  tide  of  St.  George’s  Channel,  though  nine  miles  distant.  The  water  of 
Golden  Well,  are  said  to  be  efficacious  in  diseases  of  the  eye.  Above  this 
village,  at  a  farm  called  Smurton  or  Summertown,  on  the  summit  of  a  high 
hill,  is  a  large  circular  encampment,  accompanied  by  a  very  lofty  outward 
agger,  enclosing  a  smaller  area.  The  diameter  of  the  outward  circle  was 
402  feet,  of  the  inner  307.  Repassing  the  Sealy  below  Little  Newcastle, 
and  turning  to  the  r.  is  a  field  covered  with  detached  fragments  of  broken 
rock,  called  Ca7'n  Twrne,  or  Coxn  Trefynau,  ^The  Rock  of  the  Boundaries,” 
noted  as  the  line  of  demarcation,  where  the  hundreds  of  Dewisland, 
Cemmaes,  and  Daugleddau  meet.  A  cromlech,  now  thrown  down,  and  larger 
than  that  at  Pentre  Evan,  measured  16^  ft.  by  13^,  and  from  4  to  5 
ft.  5  in.  thick.  This  stood  in  the  centre  of  a  circle  of  upright  stones, 
some  of  which  yet  remain.  Hence  the  road  leads  to  the  village  and  church 
of  St.  Dogwell,  or  Llan-ty-Dewi,  dedicated  to  Dogfael,  the  living  of  which 
is  a  vicarage  in  the  presentation  of  St.  David’s.  The  Church  is  of  consi¬ 
derable  antiquity,  and  consists  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  south  aisle,  separated 
by  low  Saxon  arches,  upon  massive  round  pillars,  terminated  by  plain  capi¬ 
tals.  It  contains  a  stone  canopy,  which  probably  once  graced  an  effigy  ; 


286 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


upon  the  floor  is  a  grave-stone  with  a  well  sculptured  cross  fleure ;  and  on 
the  s.  a  handsome  mural  monument^  to  the  family  of  Tucker  of  Sealy  Ham. 
This  is  an  elegant  modernised  mansion^  and  has  been  in  possession  of  the 
same  family  since  the  reign  of  Edward  III.  It  is  now  the  property  and 
residence  of  W.  E.  Tucker^  Esq.,  by  marriage  of  W.  Edwards,  Esq.,  of 
Little  Trefgarn,  with  the  heiress  of  that  house.  The  beautiful  grounds, 
finely  wooded,  occupy  the  slope  of  the  opposite  hill  and  the  banks  of  the 
Sealy.  On  entering  the  village  of  St.  Dogwells,  Mr.  Fenton  was  much 
struck  with  the  singular  appearance  of  a  mass  of  rock  at  the  end  of  the 
range  of  wood  to  the  e.  of  the  mansion  of  Sealy  Ham,  on  the  opposite  side. 
It  much  resembles  the  truncated  ruins  of  an  old  castle.  Having  crossed 
the  river,  turn  to  the  r.  where  is  a  circular  entrenchment,  involving  the 
rocks,  called  Castell  Coning,  and  forming  a  most  important  link  of  the  chain 
of  fortifications  which  extends  along  the  whole  length  of  the  n.  boundary  of 
this  river.  In  the  ledge  of  this  broken  mass  on  a  considerable  elevation 
was  a  maen  sigylj’  or  rocking  stone,  of  about  3  tons  weight.  Passing  the 
mansion  of  Sealy  Ham,  follow  the  ridge  of  the  hill  at  the  back  of  the  woods 
which  shelter  it,  and  reach  Castle;  a  large  mound  is  close  to  it,  which 

commands  the  mouth  of  the  Sealy,  and  Gibbrick’s  Ford.  Now  join  the 
main  road,  and  pursue  it  to  Lettardston,  from  the  name  of  its  ancient  pro¬ 
prietor  Lettard,  who  gave  the  advowson  of  the  church,  with  the  chapel  of 
Llanfair  annexed  to  the  preceptory  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John  of  Jeru¬ 
salem,  founded  at  Slebech.  An  effigy  in  the  chancel  wall  is  probably 
intended  to  represent  Lettard,  for,  according  to  Gough,  no  effigies  were 
permitted  to  occupy  the  chancel  but  those  of  the  founder  or  principal  bene¬ 
factor.  The  scenery  is  pleasing,  and  the  distant  views  include  an  extensive 
tract  of  finely  diversified  and  richly  cultivated  country.  In  the  vicinity  is 
Heathfield  Lodge,  Wm.  Jones,  Esq.  On  an  open  common  skirting  the 
road,  opposite  the  village,  are  two  tumuli,  and  one  of  larger  dimensions, 
within  an  enclosure  to  the  r.  A  large  upright  stone  at  the  s.  e.  extremity 
of  the  common,  gives  the  name  of  Longstone  to  the  adjoining  farm.  While 
spending  a  day  or  two  with  Major  Harris  of  Heathfield  Lodge,  Mr.  Fenton 
explored  these  tumuli,  with  a  design  to  open  them.  The  first  consisted  of 
raby  clay  brought  from  the  lower  part  of  the  common,  but  was  empty. 
His  labours  were  next  directed  to  the  largest  within  the  field.  The 
first  adit  was  made  in  the  centre,  and  followed  for  some  time  with  great 
spirit,  but  without  success.  One  of  the  workmen,  however,  espied  a  stone 
above  the  soil  much  nearer  the  base.  The  operations  were  then  directed  to 
this  spot.  Afterwards  another  stone  was  disclosed.  These  being  removed, 
bones  and  much  charcoal  were  found,  but  nothing  more. 

Descend  to  the  Cyllell,  or  Knife,  just  above  its  confluence  wdth  the 
Cleddy.  Turning  to  the  r.  enter  the  vale  of  Llanstinian,  the  ancient 
mansion  of  the  family  of  Symmons,  which  was  for  some  time  neglected,  has 
been  modernised,  and  forms  the  elegant  retirement  of  Colonel  Owen, 
eldest  son  of  Sir  John  Owen,  Bart.  The  views  from  the  higher  grounds 
in  this  neighbourhood  abound  with  interesting  features.  Pursuing  the 
valley  to  its  extremity,  arrive  at  Trecwn,  a  mansion  of  the  Vaughans.  On 
the  extinction  of  the  name  it  fell  to  a  sister’s  son,  Joseph  Foster  Barham, 
Esq.  M.  P.  for  Stockbridge,  Hampshire.  In  point  of  situation,  this  spot 
possesses  almost  every  ingredient  of  fine  scenery.  It  is  distant  from  Fish¬ 
guard  4  m.  Emerge  from  this  lovely  retreat,  and  ascend  the  mountain 
above  it,  falling  into  the  track  of  the  Roman  road  from  Loventium  on  the 
banks  of  the  Teifi  to  Menapia.  Pass  the  farm  of  Redwall,  or  Vagwr- 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


287 


gochj  part  of  an  extensive  mountain  property  attaching  to  the  house  of 
Llanrithan.  After  passing  the  gate  which  bounds  the  farm  of  Vagwr-goch^ 
on  the  N.  E.  of  the  road  leading  from  Fishguard  to  the  New  Inn,  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  latter  place,  still  exists  the  site  of  a  British  village.  The 
plain  on  which  it  stood  is  near  the  base  of  Moel  Eryr,  but  is  not  visible 
from  the  road,  being  intercepted  by  a  rampart  of  stones.  The  vestiges  of 
this  ancient  settlement  are  indeed  faint,  but  distinct  enough  to  define  the 
sites  of  streets  and  houses.  To  the  n.  e.  is  a  tumulus”  which  appears 
to  have  been  explored. 

The  New  Inn  proves  a  convenience  when  traversing  the  long  moun¬ 
tainous  range  from  Haverfordwest  to  Cardigan ;  here  refreshment  is 
necessary  to  enable  either  man  or  horse  to  wind  up  the  painful  ascent  of 
Tafarn-y-Bwlch.  The  road  Mr.  Fenton  pursued  led  to  the  Syfynfy^  the 
largest  tributary  stream  which  the  'e.  Cleddy,  or  Cleddeu  receives ;  it  is 
crossed  by  a  ford.  One  m.  further  is  Maenclochog,  a  large  village.  The 
parish  ehurch  was  rebuilt  about  1807,  at  the  charge  of  Barrington  Pryce, 
Esq.,  who  then  lived  at  a  hunting  seat  hard  by,  called  Temple  Druid.  This 
manor  was  once  the  property  of  De  la  Roch  or  De  Rupe ;  now  of  Lord 
Milford  and  Mr.  Le  Hunt.  There  is  a  great  number  of  fairs  here.  Mr. 
Fenton  attended  the  opening  of  a  tumulus  on  the  summit  of  the  peak 
above  Cwm  Gerwyn  or  Cwm  Curw.  In  the  autumn  of  1806,  Mr.  Fenton 
having  reached  the  summit  by  sunrise,  found  under  the  outward  green¬ 
sward  a  carnedd  of  large  stones.  His  attendants  removed  the  central  ones, 
and  denuded  a  coarse  stone  ;  this  covered  a  circular  cist,  which  was  lined 
round  the  sides  with  flags.  Another  flag  formed  the  bottom,  upon  which 
was  placed  an  inverted  urn,  which  contained  a  large  quantity  of  charcoal 
ashes  and  pieces  of  bone,  not  perfectly  calcined.  A  little  below  the  highest 
point  of  the  mountain,  upon  a  gentle  slope  open  to  the  s.  evident  traces  of  a 
Llys,  or  palace  of  some  ancient  chieftain.  It  is  similar  to  Llys  Bradweny 
and  consists  of  an  area  of  extensive  foundation,  divided  into  two  compart¬ 
ments.  On  the  s.  side  lay  two  stones  like  gate-posts,  now  overturned. 
Round  this  abode  are  several  small  excavations,  where,  within  call,  may 
have  lodged  the  vassals. 

After  passing  I  m.  from  Maenoclochog,  come  to  Temple  Druidy  so  called 
from  a  large  adjacent  cromlech.  This  place  has  been  removed  from  one 
proprietor  to  another  as  often  perhaps  as  Shenstone’s  Leasowes.  To 
its  first  fashionable  possessor,  Mr.  Pryce,  succeeded  another  Nimrod ; 
next  followed  a  navy  officer,  who  being  unaccustomed  to  green  fields, 
found  himself  comparable  only  to  a  fish  out  of  water;  and  lastly  a  gentle¬ 
man  retired  here  on  some  of  the  riches  of  India.  Turn  to  the  r.  to  New 
Moaty  a  straggling  village,  where  remains,  at  a  little  distance  below,  the 
shell  of  an  antiquated  house  inhabited  by  the  Scourfields  as  far  back  as  the 
reign  of  Edward  I.  This  admirable  situation  was  deserted  by  W.  H. 
Scourfield,  Esq.,  for  Robeston  Hall,  6  m.  below  Haverfordwest.  Descend  a 
steep  woody  declivity,  leaving  on  the  r.  Farthing's  Hook,  occupying  a 
pleasing  situation,  once  the  family  seat  of  the  Vaughan’s.  Crossing  the 
river  Syfgnfey  from  this  charmingly  sequestered  vale,  ascend  to  Henry’s 
Moaty  Castell-Hen-drev,  hence  Castle  Harri,  or  Castell  Harri.  Here 
is  a  tumulus  and  moat,  near  a  parish  church,  dedicated  to  Brynach, 
a  British  saint,  who  married  Cymorth,  one  of  the  daughters  of  Bry- 
chan.  The  living  is  a  discharged  rectory,  in  the  patronage  of  Colonel 
Scourfield.  Cross  over  a  small  brook  by  Brynaclis  Well,  a  redundant 
spring  close  to  the  ruins  of  a  chapel,  near  which  is  an  upright  stone 
bearing  a  rude  cross.  But  the  principal  fountain  dedicated  to  St.  Bry¬ 
nach,  and  referred  to  by  Giraldus,  lies  above  Carnau  Meibain  Owain  ;  on  the 


288 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


side  of  the  mountain  by  the  highway,  it  is  surrounded  by  a  stone  wall,  and 
is  called  Buarth  Brynach.  To  the  1.  of  the  spring  and  ruins,  at  the  foot  of 
a  heathy  unenclosed  tract  on  the  edge  of  the  hill  above  a  wild  mountainous 
stream,  there  is  a  considerable  Druidic  circle  ;  most  of  the  stones  are  in 
their  original  situation.  Fall  into  the  Haverfordwest  road,  pass  Poll-Tax 
Inn,  and  reach  Woodstock,  once  a  manor  possessed  by  the  powerful  Hugo 
Hywel.  It  descended  to  Sir  John  Perrott.  This  place  contained  a  chapel 
of  ease  to  Ambleston  parish,  now  totally  dilapidated.  A  methodist  meet¬ 
ing-house  has  been  erected  in  its  place.  Digress  a  little  from  the  main 
road  to  examine  an  earth  work  called  the  Rath.  It  occupies  the  summit 
of  a  conical  hill,  has  a  single  foss,  and  is  nearly  circular.  The  agger  is  so 
lofty  that  from  the  area  within,  which  is  of  considerable  extent,  nothing 
but  the  heavens  are  visible.  Hence  to  Haverfordwest. 

An  Excursion  of  5  m.  leads  the  tourist  to  Picton  Castle,  the  noble  seat 
of  Richard  Bulkeley  Phillips,  Esq.,  whose  extensive  domains  include  a 
great  portion  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  delightful  plantations  of 
this  demesne  unite  with  those  of  Slehech  Hall,  an  elegant  mansion  erected 
by  the  late  Mr.  Barlow,  and  now  in  the  possession  of  E.  Philips,  Esq. 

In  moving  to  Carew,  Mr.  Fenton  took  a  boat  at  Haverfordwest,  and 
with  the  morning  tide  fell  down  the  river,  which  here  forms  many  beautiful 
curves  pleasingly  fringed  with  wood.  The  Prescelly  Hills,  in  the  retrospect, 
have  a  charming  appearance.  Pass  a  neat  villa  called  Fern  Hill,  the  re¬ 
sidence  of  Sir  H.  Matthias,  embosomed  in  tasteful  plantations.  A  little 
farther  on  the  n.  side  of  the  river,  appear  the  ruins  of  the  venerable  mansion 
of  Boulston,  R.  G.  Ackland,  Esq.,  occupied  once  by  the  family  of  Wogans, 
who  relinquished  this  place  and  settled  in  Norfolk.  The  estate  was  purchased 
by  Colonel  Ackland,  who  erected  an  elegant  structure  upon  an  elevated 
part  of  the  demesne.  An  open  lawn  extending  to  the  river  leaves  the 
prospect  open  towards  Haverfordwest,  and  the  house  is  skreened  on  the 
other  side  by  the  venerable  remains  of  the  old  forest.  The  living  is  a 
peculiar,  and  the  church  is  a  plain  structure  ;  the  monuments  are  splendid, 
chiefly  dedicated  to  the  Wogans.  It  would  he  difficult  to  select  a  spot 
including  so  many  ingredients  of  beauty,  importance,  and  comfort  as 
Boulston,  or  where  they  are  turned  to  greater  account.  After  Colonel 
Ackland  succeeded  to  this  estate,  he  superintended  the  examination  of  a 
very  large  tumulus,  in  circumference  SOO  ft.  and  about  12  from  the  apex 
to  the  level  of  the  surrounding  ground  ;  its  extreme  boundary  is  marked 
by  stones  regularly  placed  edgewise  all  round.  When  the  turf  had  been 
removed,  a  small  urn  was  discovered  close  under  the  surface,  with  the 
mouth  upwards  covered  with  a  thin  flag,  entirely  empty.  Probably,  it 
had  been  filled  with  some  liquor  as  a  votive  offering.  Within  2  or  3  ft. 
from  the  summit  of  the  tumulus  occurred  an  accumulation  of  stones. 
About  3  ft.  lower  appeared  a  rude  cist  lined  with  a  kind  of  clay,  -wherein 
W’^ere  deposited  half-calcined  human  bones,  mingled  with  charcoal.  In  the 
centre  was  a  piece  of  flint  which  had  been  used  for  the  purpose  of  po¬ 
lishing  some  substance.  A  week  of  uninterrupted  labour  with  many 
hands  employed,  would  not  have  sufficed  to  have  cleared  the  immense 
mass,  so  that  the  work  was  proceeded  with  no  further.  In  the  same  field 
are  other  barrows  of  smaller  circuit  and  less  elevation.  Proceeding  down 
the  river  pass  several  creeks  and  shipping  places ;  land  at  Llangwni  on 
the  r.,  famous  for  its  lucrative  fishery  of  oysters  sold  at  2s.  per  bushel  to 
dealers  from  the  coast  of  Kent.  The  other  fish,  chiefly  of  the  flat  kind, 
are  brought  every  day  to  Haverfordwest  during  the  season.  This  village 
consists  of  low,  straggling  houses  interspersed  with  trees,  amidst  mountains 
of  oyster  shells.  In  the  interior  of  tlie  spacious  and  venerable  church  are 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


289 

two  tombs,  one  of  which  bears  the  effigy  of  a  crusader,  in  a  warlike 
attitude,  the  right  hand  laid  upon  a  sword,  the  left  holding  a  shield. 
The  armour  on  the  neck  is  mail  or  ring-work,  that  on  the  feet  is  of  an 
uncommon  kind.  The  canopy  displays  an  ogee  sweep  of  three  turns, 
r.  and  1.,  each  containing  one  of  smaller  dimensions  of  corresponding 
work ;  and  to  the  ogee  are  appended  crotchets  and  a  finial.  The  figure 
represents  one  of  the  family  of  La  Roche.  On  the  e.  side  of  the  entrance 
into  the  aisle,  there  is  a  niche  of  a  most  elegant  and  singular  design ;  it  is 
adorned  with  a  light,  rich  canopy,  and  a  pillar  supports  a  cistern  having  on 
a  shaft  and  pedestal,  unblazoned  escutcheons.  The  whole  structure  of  this 
chapel  is  singularly  elegant ;  the  entrance  is  formed  of  two  pointed  arches 
resting  upon  a  plain  octagon  pillar  ;  the  piscina  is  unique  ;  and  the  se¬ 
pulchral  recesses  are  of  Nolton  stone.  On  the  n.  side  of  the  communion 
rail  is  a  recumbent  figure  of  a  beautiful  female.  The  incrustation  which 
had  been  for  ages  formed  upon  and  concealed  this  figure,  was  removed 
by  Mr.  Carter.  On  the  w.  side  of  the  cemetery  stands  an  ancient  erection 
overgrown  with  ivy,  called  the  Castle  House,  probably  once  subservient  to 
Benton  Castle.  Dumpledale,  the  seat  of  Mr.  Jordan,  commands  a  fine 
view  of  Milford  Haven.  Somewhat  less  than  1  m.  from  the  village,  is  the 
mansion-house  of  Nash,  now  in  ruins,  so  called  from  a  family  of  that 
name.  Advense  subsequently  came  into  possession,  and  afterwards  suc¬ 
ceeded  the  families  of  Corbet,  Owen,  and  Barlow.  From  Llangwm  make 
a  digression.  Advance  a  little  way  along  the  beach  under  over-arching 
trees,  and  enter  a  gate  that  leads  to  a  wood  of  oaks,  through  which  a  road 
winds  to  the  summit  of  the  hill.  Here,  by  looking  towards  the  river,  a 
prospect  is  presented  so  interesting  and  varied  that  language  cannot  describe 
it ;  a  prospect  that  no  spot  in  the  county  can  in  this  respect  parallel.  The 
leading  objects  are  the  point  of  Milford  Haven  where  the  Cleddy  and 
Cleddeu  join;  Llewhaden  and  its  castle,  in  Slebech,  like  a  swan  upon 
the  banks  of  the  stream  ;  Picton  Castle  with  its  rich  woods  backed  by 
a  pleasing  gradation  of  rich  distances  up  to  the  mountains ;  and  beneath 
is  the  striking  reach  of  Milford  Haven.  Resuming  our  aquatic  progress, 
the  river,  in  its  windings  from  Haverfordwest  as  far  as  Pembroke  ferry, 
forms  a  series  of  apparent  lakes  differing  in  shape  and  size  as  the  bound¬ 
aries  are  more  or  less  indented. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Cleddeu  there  is  an  earth- work  called  Roche  Castle, 
well  situated  to  guard  that  inlet ;  on  the  other  side  appear  the  quay  and 
woods  of  Landshipping,  where  formierly  stood  a  respectable  old  mansion, 
now  unroofed  and  in  ruins,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  late  Sir  William 
Owen.  Here  is  a  very  productive  colliery  worked  by  Sir  John  Owen,  Bart. 
Adjoining  is  a  tract  of  rich  land  gently  sloping  to  the  river  called  Coed 
Camlas,  where  once  stood  the  seat  of  a  family  named  Perceval.  At  a 
sudden  bend  of  the  river,  notice  Benton  Castle,  upon  a  small  projection  of 
land,  probably  another  exploratory  fort  for  protecting  the  harbour.  It  is 
built  nearly  on  the  same  model  as  Roche  Castle.  The  main  tower  is  almost 
circular ;  the  upper  part  of  which  terminates  in  a  highly-finished  octagon. 
Adjoining  is  a  large  tract  of  uninclosed  mountain  land.  Exactly  opposite, 
on  a  peninsula,  is  Lawrenny,  formed  by  Garron  Pill  on  one  side,  and 
Creswell  estuary  upon  the  other.  The  side  contiguous  to  the  haven  is 
richly  wooded.  Upon  a  conspicuous  eminence  stands  the  charming  seat  of 
Mrs.  Barlow,  with  the  appendages  of  a  well-  stocked  park  and  extensive 
hot-houses.  The  house,  though  erected  in  the  cubic  style  of  architecture 
of  1700,  is  disposed  with  taste,  and  has  a  conservatory  adjoining  the 
breakfast  room.  Not  far  from  the  house  is  Lawrenny,  with  its  ve^- 

u 


HAVERFORDWEST. 


290 

nerable  cruciform  church  in  -which  is  a  splendid  memorial  of  the  late 
Hugh  Barlow,  Esq.  It  consists  of  an  altar-tomb  of  variegated  marble,  on 
which  is  placed  an  elegant  sarcophagus  of  white  marble,  bearing  the  family- 
arms  of  Barlow  and  Crespigny.  This  monument  was,  with  two  superb 
vases  of  alabaster,  erected  by  his  widow,  who  was  of  the  latter  family.  The 
living  is  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Barlow.  The  slope  from  the  Hall 
descends  to  the  banks  of  the  river  which  branches  into  two  estuaries,  one 
taking  the  direction  of  Cresswell,  the  other  ending  at  Carew,  presenting  an 
assemblage  of  fine  objects.  Below  the  park  is  the  Quay,  where  is  shipped 
the  coal  brought  from  the  neighbouring  mines.  From  Lawrenny,  Mr. 
Fenton  crossed  in  the  ferry-boat  to  Upton,  where  are  some  remains  of  a 
castellated  mansion,  the  ancient  residence  of  the  family  of  Malenfant  or 
Maliphant,  now  extinct.  The  estate  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Rev.  W. 
Evans,  by  marriage,  now  the  proprietor  of  the  parish.  The  appendant 
church,  a  simple  ancient  edi-tice,  is  much  altered  from  its  original  figure. 
Opposite  the  entrance,  under  a  richly  sculptured  canopy  of  stone,  orna¬ 
mented  wnth  small  figures  of  the  apostles,  is  the  effigy  of  a  warrior  in 
complete  mail.  At  a  little  distance  a  clenched  hand  issues  from  the  wall, 
forming  a  candelabrum.  In  the  chancel,  under  a  small  plain  recess  is  a 
flat  stone  bearing  an  embossed  head  of  an  ecclesiastic ;  and  farther  on, 
within  the  communion  rails,  under  another  canopy  of  stone,  is  the  figure  of 
a  lady  singularly  habited.  Upon  the  opposite  side,  a  few  neat  mural 
tablets  to  the  Bowens,  who  were  the  successors  of  the  Malenfants.  A  short 
walk  produces  a  view  of  Carew  Castle. 

Having  advanced  2  or  3  m.  on  the  direct  road  to  Cardigan,  Flaver- 
fordwest  appears  as  if  its  houses  were  piled  one  upon  the  other ;  these  are 
accompanied  by  a  fine  river  teeming  with  shipping.  At  some  distance  w., 
the  lofty  tower  of  Roche  or  Rose  Castle  becomes  conspicuous  ;  and  partly  in 
the  same  direction,  emerges  in  abrupt  crags  the  Trogan  Rock  from  the  midst 
of  verdure,  assuming  the  character  of  gigantic  ruins.  Turning  to  the  e., 
an  ancient  encampment  called  St.  Leonard's  Rathe,  crowns  a  bold  emi¬ 
nence;  this  work  is  circular,  and  may  be  attributed  to  the  Saxons.  Ad¬ 
vancing  from  this  spot,  the  beauties  of  the  country  disappear,  and  no  further 
objects  of  interest  occur.  The  ^unadorned  views  compress  into  narrow 
limits,  and,  at  length,  are  shut  up  in  mountainous  hollows.  In  this  dreary 
track  stands  the  solitary  New  Inn,  half  way  between  Haverfordwest  and 
Cardigan. 

On  the  road  to  St.  David’s  occurs,  at  the  distance  of  about  6  m.,  the 
elevated  ruin  of  Roche  Castle.  Beyond,  the  road  passes  near  the  border  of 
St.  Bride's  dangerous  bay,  crossing  the  romantic  creek  and  little  harbour  of 
Solfach  on  the  left,  through  a  wild  country.  To  Caston  Hill,  4^  m.  Newgale 
Sands,  4i  m.  Lower  Solfach,  3|:m.  St.  David’s  m. 

The  country  on  the  road  to  Milford  Haven,  is  flat  beyond  MerliVbS 
Bridge,  which  crosses  a  branch  of  the  Cleddy,  but,  on  the  whole,  pleasing, 
distant  m.  On  the  1.  is  the  road  to  Pembroke,  10  m.  On  the  r.,  is 
the  old  road  to  Milford,  the  same  distance.  Johnston,  3  m.  on  the  1., 
Lord  Kensington  ;  Stainton,  2  m.  On  the  1.,  Harmeston,  D.  Hughes,  Esq. 
Milford  Haven,  1^  m.  There  are  a  number  of  gentlemen’s  seats  in  the 
neighbourhood,  but  the  scenery  abounds  so  little  with  what  is  uncommon, 
that  their  names  may  suffice.  Cinnamon  Grove  and  Bolton  Hill,  are 

agreeable  residences.  On  the  r.,  Eniskel,  - Wright,  Esq.  About  a  mile 

beyond  Tiers  Cross  is  Robeston  Hall,  W.  H.  Scourfield,  Esq. ;  on  leaving 
which,  observe  some  fine  aquatic  views  ahowi  Herhrandstone,  D.  Hughes,  Esq. 
Before  Pyle  visit  Hubherston  Priory,  not  far  from  the  water-side.  A 


HAWARDEN. 


291 

portion  of  the  principal  gate-house  is  all  that  remains.  The  old  village 
Hakin  is  separated  from  Milford  by  one  of  the  creeks  which  penetrate  the 
country  out  from  the  haven.  The  packets  from  Ireland  sail  from  this 
place.  Though  mean,  it  is  very  romantically  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a 
deep,  narrow,  and  serpentine  valley,  opening  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile 
from  the  sea. 


To  Cardigan,  26  miles.  Barber. 

St.  David’s,  15f  miles.  Barber ;  Evans;  Wynd- 
ham’s  1st  tour. 

Milford,  7  miles.  Malkin. 


To  Narberth,  10  miles.  Wyndham’s  2d  tour. 
Pembroke,  10  miles. 

Carew  Castle,  down  the  river.  Fenton. 


HAWARDEN. 

From  Chester,  7  miles.  Bingley  ;  Warner  ;  Gil-  I  From  Northop,  B  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Pennant, 
pin.  1  Mold,  6  miles.  Pugh. 

HAWARDEN,  a  market-town  and  parish  on  the  turnpike-road  from 
Chester  to  Holyhead,  in  the  hundred  of  Mold,  Flintshire,  is  situated  near 
a  small  stream  which  falls  into  the  new  channel.  Though  this  name  is 
always  written  Ho^warden^  it  is  constantly  pronounced  Harden,”  and  sup¬ 
posed  to  be  of  Saxon  origin,  but  probably  of  Welsh  derivation,  compounded 
of  garth,”  a  hill,  and  dinas,”  a  fortress  ;  hence  Ardd-din,  or  Ardin,  “ 
fortified  mount  or  hill.”  The  Church  is  an  ancient  plain  structure,  no  way 
remarkable  for  its  architecture  or  monumental  remains.  The  living  is  a 
rectory  in  the  peculiar  and  exempt  jurisdiction  of  the  incumbent,  whose 
income,  arising  from  extensive  inclosures,  amounts  to  4000/.  per  annum. 
Patron,  Sir  S.  R.  Glynne.  In  1822,  a  new  church  was  erected  in  the 
hamlet  of  Buckley,  towards  the  erection  of  which  the  parliamentary  com¬ 
missioners  advanced  4000/.  The  tower  is  surmounted  by  a  spire,  and  the 
style  is  that  of  modern  English.  This  neat  edifice  contains  740  sittings. 

In  the  Norman  survey,  this  place  is  called  Haordine.  It  probably  was 
an  early  British  post  of  the  Cornavii  who  had  to  defend  this  part  of  the 
country  against  the  invading  Romans.  Truman's  Hill,  w.  of  the  church 
by  the  road-side,  a  mount  in  which  is  a  cavity  like  a  small  camp,  and  other 
fortified  heights  in  the  vicinity,  formed  after  the  British  manner,  seem  to 
confirm  this  conjecture.  Hawarden  appears  to  have  been  a  stronghold  of 
the  Saxons,  for  on  the  invasion  of  William  it  was  found  in  possession  of 
Edwin,  sovereign  of  Deira.  The  resident  population  of  this  parish,  in 
1801,  was  4071.  This  place  originated  in  the  erection  of  the  castle,  which 
stands  at  the  e.  end  of  the  town,  commanding  a  fine  and  extensive  prospect 
towards  the  river  Dee,  and  the  county  of  Chester.  At  an  early  period  this 
town  had  two  names  ;  one  in  Welsh,  Pennard-halawg,”  being  n.  of  that 
extensive  flat  called  Saltney  Marsh  ;  or  Penearth-y-Llac,  i.  e.  ‘‘  the  Summit  of 
the  Hill  above  the  Swamps.”  An  excellent  road  was  formerly  made,  and  a 
canal  ran  parallel  with  it,  for  the  conveyance  of  articles  to  the  Dee  ;  yet 
one  is  neglected,  and  the  other  disused.  The  Castle,  situated  within  the 
park,  was  probably  built  soon  after  the  Conquest ;  as  it  was  in  possession  of 
Roger  Fitzvalerine,  a  son  of  one  of  those  adventurers  who  arrived  with 
the  Conqueror.  The  Montaults,  or  Montalto  family,  barons  of  Mold,  held 
it  subordinately  as  stewards  in  the  palatinate  of  Chester.  On  the  suppres¬ 
sion  of  a  rebellion,  conducted  by  the  Earl  of  Leicester,  Hawarden  reverted 
to  the  crown.  Another  insurrection,  headed  by  Dafydd,  brother  of 

u  2 


HAWARDEN. 


292 

Llywelyn,,  a  Welsli  cliieftam,  who.  in  128 1^  took  the  castle  by  a  coup  de 
main,  diverted  these  possessions  into  another  course.  After  the  death  of 
Llywelyn^  and  the  subjection  of  Wales  to  English  jurisdiction,  Dafydd, 
who  had  accepted  a  seat  among  the  peers,  was  the  first  person  who  suffered 
as  a  traitor  in  the  savage  way  then  in  use.  He  was  hung,  his  bowels  burnt, 
and  his  body  quartered.  Hawarden  again  devolved  to  the  family  of 
Montault,  as  seneschals  of  the  palatinate;  it  then  descended  to  the  Stanleys, 
Earls  of  Derby  ;  and  on  the  demise  of  James,  seventh  Earl  of  Derby,  who, 
at  the  battle  of  Worcester,  in  1651,  was  beheaded  by  the  insurgents,  it 
was  purchased  under  the  sequestration  act  by  Serjeant  Glynne.  During 
the  civil  wars  this  castle  was  seized  by  the  anti-royalists,  and  garrisoned  by 
parliamentary  forces.  In  l643,  a  detachment  from  Ireland,  despatched  by 
the  Duke  of  Ormond,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant-Colonel  Marrow, 
re-took  it.  The  royalists  seem  to  have  been  in  possession  of  the  castle  sub¬ 
sequent  to  the  surrender  of  Chester  to  Sir  William  Brereton,  in  1645.  On 
March  17*  1645,  after  sustaining  a  close  siege  of  four  weeks,  it  w’as  given 
up  by  Sir  William  Neal  to  Major-general  Mytton.  In  December,  par¬ 
liament  ordered  it  to  be  dismantled  with  four  other  neighbouring  fortresses. 
The  present  remains  of  the  castle  consist  of  little  more  than  fragments  of 
the  walls  and  keep,  lately  inclosed  from  common  obtrusion,  and  accessible 
only  by  permission  of  the  gardener.  Formerly  a  considerable  portion  of 
this  ruin  was  obscured  by  rubbish  when  Sir  John,  grandfather  of  the  present 
proprietor.  Sir  Stephen  Richard  Glynne,  Bart.,  caused  the  loose  remains  to 
be  removed,  and  the  foundations  laid  open.  The  structure  was  apparently 
pentagonal,  having  a  strong  square  entrance  gateway  on  its  widest  side ; 
and  on  another  a  barbican.  At  one  angle  is  placed  the  keep,  a  circular 
tower,  nearly  entire ;  this  forms  a  grand  object,  towering  above  the  woods. 
The  other  remains  consist  of  fragments  of  walls  and  various  buildings. 
Those  formerly  discovered  by  clearing  away  the  accumulated  debris,  present 
a  flight  of  steps  ;  at  the  foot  of  this  was  a  door  and  drawbridge  that  crossed 
a  deep  chasm,  faced  with  freestone,  towards  another  entrance  leading  to 
two  or  three  small  apartments,  probably  places  of  confinement.  The  castle 
was  surrounded  by  a  broad  and  deep  foss,  now  planted  with  timber  trees, 
forming  picturesque  ravines,  above  which  the  ruins  are  seen  with  romantic 
effect.  There  is  a  post-office  here  :  the  mail-coach  passes  daily  to  Holyhead. 
The  market  is  on  Saturday.  The  fairs  are  held  on  the  last  Mondays  in 
April  and  June.  Here  is  an  endowed  Free  Grammar  School,  founded  in 
1706,  for  the  benefit  of  the  parochial  children.  The  petty  sessions  here 
are  held  monthly.  Hawarden  gives  the  title  of  Viscount  to  the  family  of 
Maude.  This  parish  contains  about  13,000  acres  of  land,  of  which  the 
township  of  Sealand,  partly  recovered  from  the  sea,  and  consisting  of  4000 
acres  was  inclosed  in  1732  ;  Saltney  township,  2000  acres,  inclosed  in 
1778  ;  the  Warren  Mountain,  about  6OO  acres,  was  inclosed  in  1798  ;  the 
rest  are  in  cultivation.  The  houses  are  respectable,  and  the  forges,  foun- 
deries,  &c.  well  built.  This  parish  receives  200/.  per  annum  from  the  river 
Dee  company,  for  800  acres  of  land  inclosed  on  the  n.  side  of  the  river,  for 
the  use  of  the  navigators.  In  most  of  the  townships  of  Hawarden  are  con¬ 
siderable  coal-mines,  from  which  Chester  and  the  adjacent  country  are 
chiefly  supplied.  In  those  of  Pentre  Hobyn  and  Euloe,  there  is  an  exten¬ 
sive  mine  of  very  fine  fire-clay,  from  which  great  quantities  of  bricks, 
bearers,  flooring,  malt  and  ridge  tiles,  and  coarse  earthenware  are  made. 
In  the  township  of  Saltney  is  a  large  manufacture  of  Glauber's  salts,  sal 
ammoniac,  ivory  black,  &c.  There  is  a  railway  down  to  the  river  Dee  for 
the  conveyance  of  produce. 


HAWAllDEN. 


293 


Hawarden  Park  is  the  seat  of  Sir  Stephen  Richard  Glynne,  Bart._,  only  son 
of  the  late  Sir  Stephen,  who  died  soon  after  his  marriage.  The  house  was 
a  handsome  modern  structure,  erected  in  1752  by  Sir  John  Glynne,  but  in 
1 8O9,  it  was  nev/ly  cased  with  freestone,  forming  a  grand  castellated  struc¬ 
ture,  with  towers,  turrets,  &c.,  in  the  Gothic  style  of  the  13th  century. 
Numerous  paintings  decorate  the  different  apartments ;  the  collection  con¬ 
sists  chiefly  of  portraits.  Here  are  four  pictures  from  Sir  Kenelm  Digby’s 
collection;  they  represent,  in  half-lengths,  the  Evangelists;  and  are  con¬ 
sidered  the  production  of  Valentine,  who  copied  the  style  of  Caravaggio. 
Among  the  family  portraits  are  two  of  Sir  John  Glynne,  who  supported 
high  stations  during  the  reign  of  Charles  I.,  the  Interregnum,  and  after 
the  restoration. 

Proceeding  to  Mold,  the  Chester  Channel  is  in  the  rear,  and  in  front 
are  the  mountains  of  Flintshire.  At  the  distance  of  3  m.  is  Buckley  Hill, 
upon  which  are  conducted  very  extensive  potteries.  Descending  the  n.  w. 
side,  the  prospect  of  the  vale  is  richly  embellished  with  woods,  villages,  and 
elegant  mansions. 

To  Northop,  1  m.  on  the  r.  is  Aston  Hall,  C.  Dundas,  Esq..  ;  n.  of 
this  place  are  coal-works  ;  a  little  further  is  the  village  of  Euloe,  1  m.  3  ft. 
and  Shotten  Lane  End;  on  the  1.  Euloe  Green,  and  on  the  r.  near  Pentre 
Bridge,  1^  m.,  in  a  low  situation,  are  the  remains  of  Euloe  Castle.  [See 
Mold.]  The  narrow  and  depressed  defile,  called  Coed  Euloe,  is  memor¬ 
able  for  the  signal  defeat  led  on  by  Henry  II.,  against  the  Welsh  in  1155. 
He  had  collected  a  very  great  armament  from  all  parts  of  England,  for  the 
purpose  of  subduing  N.  Wales.  To  this  undertaking  he  was  induced  by 
Cadwaladr,  whom  Owain  Gwynedd  deprived  and  banished ;  Madog  ap 
Meredith,  prince  of  Powys,  who  was  compelled  to  do  homage  to  the  prince 
of  N.  W ales,  also  greatly  influenced  that  monarch.  With  these  coadjutors, 
Henry  II.  led  his  army  to  West  Chester,  and  encamped  upon  Saltney 
Marsh.  Owain,  during  this  co-operation,  was  vigilant  in  all  possible  pre¬ 
parations  to  confront  the  enemy.  He  marched  his  army  to  the  frontiers  of 
England,  and  encamped  at  Basingwerk.  Henry  detached  some  of  his  best 
troops  from  the  main  body,  commanded  by  several  earls,  and  sent  them 
towards  Prince  Owain’s  camp  ;  in  passing,  however,  through  this  defile, 
David  and  Conon,  the  sons  of  Owain,  bore  up  and  slaughtered  most  of 
them.  Henry  then  decamped  from  Saltney,  and  ranked  his  troops  along 
the  sea-coast  intending  to  gain  the  rear  of  Owain.  But  the  Prince  perceiv¬ 
ing  this,  retired  to  a  place  now  called  Cil  Owain  (Owain’s  retreat).  Henry 
then  came  to  Rhuddlan.  In  this  expedition  the  king  was  greatly  exposed 
while  passing  through  a  strait  at  Counsylth  near  Flint.  The  Welsh 
pressed  on  so  violently  that  even  the  standard  of  England  was  left  behind 
by  its  bearer,  Henry  de  Essex.  Eustace  Fitzjohn  and  Robert  Curcie, 
two  valiant  knights,  were  slain,  with  many  others  of  the  nobility  and 
gentry.  Giraldus  relates  that  the  remains  of  a  young  Welsh  gentleman, 
wounded  in  this  battle,  were  preserved  from  becoming  a  prey  to  voracious 
fowls,  wolves,  and  other  animals,  for  eight  days  after  his  decease,  by  his 
faithful  dog.  The  monk  compares  this  instance  of  fidelity  to  the  insepa¬ 
rable  friendship  between  Nisus  and  Euryalus  ;  Polynices  and  Tydeus  ;  Pyla- 
dus  and  Orestes.  In  a  copse  by  Euloe  Castle,  grows  Euonymus  europaeus; 
by  the  road-side  to  Chester,  the  Atropa  belladonna. 

To  Flint,  Mr.  Pugh  followed  the  Dee  by  Connah’s  Quay,  where  vessels 
take  in  their  cargoes  of  coals  ;  it  is  also  an  out-port  to  Chester ;  but  he 
says  “  it  proved  a  very  uninteresting  walk  of  eight  miles.”  He  advises 

u  3 


HAY. 


294 

artists  to  keep  the  turnpike-road  from  Hawarden_,  through  Northop  and 
Halkin  to  Holywell. 

To  Mold,  6  miles.  Warner  ;  Gilpin.  J  To  Chester,  7  miles.  Wyiidham  ;  Pennant. 

Northop,  5  miles.  Bingley.  |  Flint,  8  miles.  Pugh. 


HAY. 


From  Crickhowel,  22  miles.  Malkin.  Hence  to 
Builth,  on  the  w.  side  of  the  Wye,  15 
miles ;  back  to  Hay. 


From  N.  Radnor,  12  miles.  Wyndham. 
Builth,  15i  miles.  Skrine. 

Brecon,  15  miles.  Lipscomb, 


HAYj  in  British  Tre-Gelli,  in  the  hundred  of  Talgarth,  and  county  of 
Brecon,  is  situated  on  the  hanks  of  the  Wye,  on  the  borders  of  Hereford¬ 
shire.  The  former  name  of  this  town  is  derived  from  the  Norman  French 
hater,  to  inclose.  The  latter  from  celli,  a  grove,  and  tre,  a  town.  It  is 
also  called  Haseley,  and  consists  of  one  street,  divided  into  a  fork  near  the 
middle,  to  the  e.  towards  Herefordshire,  and  separated  from  that  county  by 
the  Dulas,  which  here  falls  into  the  Wye.  The  houses  are  placed  on  the 
declivity  of  a  hill,  which  produces  a  greater  appearance  of  consequence  than 
the  town  really  possesses.  Hay  is  a  borough  by  prescription,  but  has  no 
privileges.  The  soil  round  the  town  is  extremely  good,  and  in  high  culti¬ 
vation.  A  manufactory  for  carding  and  spinning  wool,  and  converting  it 
into  flannel,  has  been  long  established ;  it  employs  a  considerable  number 
of  hands.  Inn,  the  Swan  Hotel.  The  fairs  are,  Monday  before  Easter, 
May  17*j  second  Monday  in  June,  Aug.  12.,  and  Oct.  10.  The  Market  occurs 
on  Thursday,  and  is  plentifully  supplied  with  grain  and  provision  of  all 
kinds.  The  parish  Church,  dedicated  to  St.  John,  called  Eglwys  Ifan, 
appears,  according  to  the  “  Notitia  Cambro-Britannica,^’  to  have  been  in 
good  repair  in  l684.  This  erection  partly  fell  down  about  the  year  1700, 
and  was  never  repaired ;  a  portion  of  it  has  since  been  used  as  a  school. 
The  Church  of  St.  Mary,  at  the  w.  end  of  the  town,  now  resorted  to,  is 
separated  by  a  deep  dingle,  which  probably  was  formerly  a  moat.  It  is  a 
small  structure,  romantically  situated  upon  an  eminence,  almost  precipitous, 
on  the  N.W.,  close  to  the  river.  It  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel,  with  a 
tower  at  the  w.  end.  A  pointed  arch  forms  the  entrance,  by  an  ascent  of 
three  steps.  Under  the  communio'n-table  is  a  stone  inscribed  to  James 
Watkins,  of  Tregoyd,  Gent.,  who  died  June  18.  1639^  aged  75*  On  the 
s.  side  is  a  tombstone  over  the  remains  of  Thomas  Gwyn,  of  Hay  Castle, 
Esq.,  Howel,  his  son,  and  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Thomas  Gwyn.  Having 
founded  an  almshouse  at  Hay  for  six  poor  people,  she  endowed  it  with  an 
annual  gift;  and  died  May  12.  1702.  The  gallery  of  St.  Mary’s  was 
erected  in  1723.  The  silver  chalice  is  very  ancient,  and  bears  the  words, 
ouB  LADiE  PARIS  OF  THE  HAi.  The  charitable  bequest  of  Mrs.  Gwyn 
consisted  of  a  house  without  the  Watergate,  as  a  habitation  for  six  poor 
people,  and  a  tenement  called  Pen-y-wern,  in  Hysserth,  the  rents  to  be 
appropriated  annually  towards  their  maintenance,  and  also  100/.,  which  was 
laid  out  in  the  purchase  of  farm  called  Brynrhydd.  Elizabeth  Bevan, 
widow,  devised  6/.  for  the  use  of  the  poor ;  and  William  Pennoyre,  Esq., 
12/.  to  a  schoolmaster,  and  2/.  for  books ;  both  annually.  The  cemetery 
is  crowded  with  grave-stones.  Upon  the  ground  is  a  stone  effigy,  supposed 
to  represent  a  friar  or  a  monk,  very  much  defaced.  Near  the  church  are 
three  old  grave-stones,  inscribed  Tho.  Waters,  and  another  Theophilus  Hill, 


HAY. 


295 

who  died  in  l675.  The  view  from  this  yard  is  very  rich  and  variegated. 
The  rectoral  tithes  are  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  Hullet.  The  vicarage  house 
became  ruinous  in  the  time  of  the  civil  war_,  and  was  never  afterwards 
repaired,  indeed,  the  site  is  hardly  known.  The  scenery  around  the 
bridge  assists  in  impressing  the  idea  of  the  superiority  of  that  picturesque 
etfect  which  arises  from  low  bridges  forming  a  principal  object ;  and  when 
compared  with  those  of  Rhaiadyr  and  Builth,  the  contrast  will  be  striking. 
This  bridge  of  seven  arches  met,  in  the  year  1795,  with  a  fate  similar  to 
that  of  Builth.  At  a  short  distance  stands  Oakfield,  H.  Allen,  jun..  Esq. 

Some  vestiges  of  a  Roman  fortress  are  upon  the  bank  near  the  church. 
A  part  only  of  the  more  modern  Castle  stands  upon  an  eminence  in  the  town. 
A  dwelling-house  has  been  erected  out  of  the  remains  ,*  but  a  Gothic  gateway 
is  preserved,  which  frowns  with  venerable  and  baronial  dignity  upon  the 
inhabitants  of  the  town  below.  The  manor  of  Hay  was  given  by  Bernard 
Newmarch  to  Sir  Philip  Walwyn,  who  probably  built  the  castle.  It  became 
afterwards  the  possession  of  Maud  de  St.  Valeri,  to  whom  tradition  attributes 
the  erection  of  the  walls  and  the  castle.  It  was  in  the  possession  of  Mr. 
Wellington,  a  family  who  settled  here  in  trade  during  the  17th  century, 
one  of  whom  purchased  it  from  the  heiresses  of  the  Gwyns.  After  the  death 
of  Mrs.  Gwyn,  in  1702,  the  castle  was  let  out  in  different  apartments;  in 
one  of  them,  for  some  time,  lodged  the  once  famous  George  Psalmanazer. 
The  round  hill  noticed  by  Leland  is  near  the  Swan ;  it  was  either  a  watch- 
tower,  a  small  prison,  or  keep.  Inn,  the  White  Swan. 

In  our  Voyage  down  the  Wye,  at  about  2  rn,  below  the  town,  are  the 
remains  of  Clifford  Castle,  standing  upon  a  considerable  eminence  upon 
the  banks  of  the  river.  Its  walls  are  not  high,  nor  its  parts  broken  and 
irregular  enough  to  form  a  striking  feature  in  a  picture,  yet  it  merits  the 
notice  of  the  inquisitive  traveller.  This  fortress  was  erected  by  William 
Fitzosborn,  first  Earl  of  Huntingdon.  It  was  afterwards  held  by  Ralph  de 
Todeny,  and  again  by  Walter,  son  of  Richard  Punt,  or  Ponce,  whose  sur¬ 
name  was  De  Clifford,  and  from  him  the  noble  house  of  the  Cliffords,  earls 
of  Cumberland,  are  originally  descended.  This  manor,  however,  did  not 
long  continue  in  the  family,  though  the  younger  branches  of  it  flourished  in 
other  places.  It  appears  that,  in  the  reign  of  Edward  I.,  John  Giffard  was 
in  possession,  having  obtained  it  by  marriage  with  the  heiress  of  Walter 
Giffard,  grandson  of  Walter  de  Clifford,  above  mentioned.  At  this  place 
was  born  the  celebrated  Rosamond,  who  was  the  daughter  of  the  last-named 
personage.  She  was  educated  at  Godstow  nunnery,  the  religious  houses 
being  then  the  only  places  of  education  for  young  ladies  of  rank  and  dis¬ 
tinction.  Here  she  was  first  seen  by  Henry  II.,  who  became  violently  ena¬ 
moured,  declared  his  passion,  and  triumphed  over  her  honour.  Master 
Hollinshead  thus  speaks  of  Henry  II.’s  incontinence,  and  of  his  attachment 
to  fair  Rosamond.  Not  contented  with  his  wife,  he  kept  many  concu¬ 
bines,  but  he  delighted  most  in  the  companie  of  a  pleasant  damosell,  whom 
he  ’cleped  the  Rose  of  the  World ;  the  common  people  named  her  Rosa¬ 
mond,  for  hir  passing  beautie,  propernesse  of  person,  and  pleasant  wit,  with 
other  amyable  qualities,  being  verily  a  rare  and  peerelesse  peece  in  those  days. 
He  made  for  hir  an  house  at  Woodstocke  in  Oxfordshire,  like  to  a  laberinth, 
that  is  to  meane,  wrought  like  a  knot  in  a  garden,  called  a  maze,  with  such 
turnings  and  windings  in  and  out,  that  no  creature  might  find  her  nor  come 
to  her,  except  he  were  instructed  by  the  king,  or  such  as  were  secrete  with 
him  in  that  matter.  But  the  common  report  of  the  people  is,  that  the 
queene  finally  founde  her  out  by  a  silke  thread,  whiche  the  king  had  drawne 
forth  of  hir  chamber  with  his  foote,  and  dealte  with  her  in  such  sharpe  and 

u  4 


HAY. 


296 

cruell  wise,  that  she  lyved  not  long  after.  She  was  buried  in  the  nunrie  of 
Godstow  beside  Oxforde,  with  these  verses  upon  her  tumbe :  — 

Hie  jacet  in  tumulo,  Rosamundi  non  Rosamunda, 

Non  redolet  sed  olet,  quse  redolere  solet.” 

There  is  a  hamlet  near  the  Hay,  on  the  borders  of  Herefordshire,  called 
Cusop,  which  is  scarcely  known,  but  admirably  picturesque.  The  Dulas 
Brook  ripples  among  the  contiguous  summits,  and  contributes  largely  to  the 
stream.  Hence,  amidst  a  profusion  of  rich  and  beautiful  scenery,  the  river 
quits  Radnorshire,  at  a  place  called  Rhyds-pence.  Whitney,  near  Whitney 

- Daw,  Esq.  The  winding  and  mazy  course  of  the  Wye,  in  about  2  m.. 

Court,  brings  us  to  Clifford  Castle,  where  Ptosamond  spent  her  early  life. 
Then  passing  several  beautiful  villages,  reach  the  diminutive  church  of  Willers- 
ley,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  the  extensive  range  of  Meerbatch  Hills  afford, 
from  their  summits,  grand  and  extensive  views  of  the  surrounding  country. 
Brohury  Scar,  also  in  this  neighbourhood,  is  another  grand  object :  its  prin¬ 
cipal  attractions  are  the  bold  and  majestic  roughness  of  its  form,  which  con¬ 
trast  beautifully  with  the  views  upon  the  bank  of  the  Wye.  Our  river 
glides  in  an  easy  course  towards  Bredwardine.  This  village  stands  upon  an 
easy  ascent,  on  the  bank  of  the  Wye,  and  appears  in  a  happy  point  of  view 
above  the  bridge ;  the  n.  side  of  the  river  rises  considerably,  and  is  richly 
clothed  with  shrubbery.  This  place  is  said  to  have  given  birth  and  name  to 
the  celebrated  Thomas  Bradwo.rdin,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  who,  from 
his  deep  erudition,  was  called  Doctor  Profundus.”  The  ruins  of  the  castle, 
near  the  church,  are  inconsiderable.  41  m.  from  Bredwardine  is  Morning, 
situated  upon  the  1.  side  of  the  river,  once  belonging  to  Owain  Glyndwr,  in 
the  reign  of  Henry  IV.  Opposite  is  Moccas  Court,  the  seat  of  Sir  Geo. 
Cornewall,  Bart.,  pleasantly  situated  upon  an  eminence,  on  the  s.  bank.  The 
ancient  name  of  this  place  is  Moches,  which  was  the  property  of  St.  Guthlach, 
of  Hereford.  The  ancient  house  stood  below  the  site  of  the  present  modern 
structure,  partly  built  from  the  ruins  of  Bredwardine  Castle.  Descending 
towards  Hereford,  pass  a  variety  of  elegant  villas,  rich  in  situation,  and 
happily  selected;  among  these,  Barland's  Abbey,  J.  Cotterell,  Esq.,  M.P. ; 

New  Wear,  -  Griffiths,  Esq. ;  and  Belmont,  the  seat  of  Dr.  Prosser, 

are  peculiarly  worthy  of  attention.  6  m.  from  Hereford  is  Foocley,  the  seat  of 
Uvedale  Price,  Esq.  The  little  inn  at  Clifford  displays  the  sign  of  the  Castle. 

On  a  wide  circuit  to  Builth,  nothing  very  striking  occurs  till  you  reach 
Gldsbury,  4  m.,  at  the  fall  or  confluence  of  the  river  Llyfni  with  the  Wye, 
where  the  scene  is  uncommonly  gay,  luxuriant,  and  beautiful.  The  mea¬ 
dows  by  the  river  side,  the  trim  lawn  of  Walter  Wilkins,  Esq.,  at  Maes- 
lough  Castle,  opposite,  on  a  rising  slope,  with  fields,  orchards,  &c.,  detain 
the  feasted  eye.  A  little  further  the  river  makes  the  largest  horse-shoe  bend 
in  the  whole  extent  of  its  course.  Llangoed  Castle,  on  the  banks  of  the 
W ye,  5  m.  beyond  Glasbury,  was  purchased  from  Sir  Edward  Williams, 
Bart.,  by  John  Macnamara,  Esq.,  barrister-at-law.  The  capability  of 
this  domain,  consisting  of  54,000  acres,  are  equal  to  render  it  one  of  the 
finest  in  Wales  ;  the  scenery  is,  perhaps,  inferior  to  none  in  the  kingdom. 
To  enable  the  traveller  better  to  enjoy  the  windings  of  the  river,  walks 
have  been  cut  on  the  margin  ;  thus  adding  greatly  to  the  facility  of  pur¬ 
suing  the  W ye,  which  here  assumes  a  most  romantic  appearance.  Amid 
numerous  natural  beauties,  there  is  a  remarkably  fine  dingle,  lying  far 
from  any  thoroughfare,  and  therefore  little  known.  Mrs.  Macnamara  con¬ 
ducted  the  improvements,  and  even  the  entire  husbandry  of  this  ancient 
seat.  The  farm  consists  of  18,000  acres.  While  at  Hay,  IMr.  Skrine 
paid  a  visit  to  the  Rev.  Mr,  Edwards,  then  rector  of  Clyro,  and  archdeacon 


HAY. 


297 

of  Brecon.  Of  this  gentleman  Mr.  Skrine  speaks  in  the  highest  style  of 
eulogium^  and  acknowledges  the  advantages  which  he  has  reaped  from  his 
experience,  his  society,  and  friendship,  in  the  most  pleasing,  honourable, 
and  grateful  manner.  The  village  of  Clyro  is  concealed  beneath  the  Rad¬ 
norshire  range  of  hills,  possessing  no  natural  or  acquired  beauties  by  which 
it  is  distinguished. 

In  a  route  on  the  eastern  side  op  the  Wye  to  New  Radnor,  Mr. 
Malkin  visited  the  following  places.  Clyro,  where  on  a  head-stone  in  the 
churchyard  appears  the  incredible  age  of  219-  The  village  of  Llowes, 
near  the  Wye.  We  have  a  wonderful  tale  relating  to  this  place;  resem¬ 
bling  the  three  pebbles  near  Dolgelly  (see  p.  252.).  It  attaches  to  the  cor¬ 
rupted  name  of  Moll  Walbec,  whose  castles  appear  upon  every  eminence, 
and  her  feats  are  narrated  in  every  parish.  She  built,  says  tradition,  the 
castle  of  Hay  in  one  night,  the  stones  for  which  she  carried  in  her  apron. 
While  she  was  thus  employed,  a  small  pebble,  of  about  9  ft-  long  and  1 
thick,  dropped  into  her  shoe,  and  finding  it  troublesome,  she  threw  it  over 
the  Wye  into  Llowes  churchyard,  about  3  m.  off,  where  it  remains  to  this 
day,  precisely  in  the  position  in  which  it  fell ;  a  stubborn  memorial  of  the 
historical  fact^  to  the  utter  confusion  of  all  sceptics  and  unbelievers  !  Glds- 
hury  Bridge  was  built  by  Wm.  Edwards,  and  consisted  of  five  arches,  but 
was  washed  down  by  a  flood.  The  present  bridge  is  of  wood,  resting  upon 
stone  piers,  whence  you  see  the  grounds  of  Maeslough,  Aberllyn,  and  the 
Brecknockshire  hills.  Maeslough  looks  best  at  a  distance,  seeming  to  affect 
the  style  of  a  village.  It  is  the  property  of  Mr.  Wilkins,  M.P.  for  the 
county.  This  road  is  not  adapted  for  carriages,  but  to  horsemen  and  foot 
travellers  it  is  more  interesting  than  the  other  side  of  the  river.  Those  who 
wish  to  examine  both  sides  may  have  frequent  opportunities  of  crossing  in 
stationary  ferry-boats.  Boughrood  is  beautifully  embosomed  in  wood.  It 
is  worth  while  to  pass  hence  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  which  exhibits 
one  of  the  finest  scenes  upon  the  Wye.  At  this  place  the  Calethwr  enters 
the  Wye  from  Brecknockshire,  and  the  Machwy  from  Radnorshire,  each 
nearly  opposite  the  other.  Few  scenes  are  more  uncommon  than  the  dingle 
of  the  Machwy,  but  it  can  only  be  found  by  a  guide.  Mr.  Macnamara’s 
servant  was  Mr.  Malkin’s  guide.  The  first  effort  is  to  climb  a  mossy  hill, 
almost  perpendicular.  After  having  traversed  the  slippery  ridge  for  some 
time,  it  becomes  necessary  to  descend,  in  order  to  command  a  striking  point 
of  view.  The  dingle  is  here  terminated  by  a  tremendous  rock,  on  the  top 
of  which  are  the  remnants  of  some  ancient  and  rude  structure,  to  which 
vulgar  report  attaches  a  monstrous  tale.  History  is  silent  respecting  it. 
Mr.  Malkin  thought  it  approached  nearer  to  what  may  be  denominated 
savage,  than  any  thing  he  had  ever  seen  of  its  kind.  After  having  descended 
from  the  loftier  sides  of  the  dingle,  and  examined  these  terrific  foundations, 
the  bed  of  the  river  is  approached  with  difficulty  by  a  second  descent,  and 
crossed  in  front  of  the  black  rock,  by  stepping  upon  the  more  elevated  stones. 
Here  a  narrow  ledge  upon  the  brink  of  a  deeply-worn  pool,  conducts  you, 
bending  double  under  a  mass  of  overhanging  rock,  to  a  singular  fall  of  the 
Machwy,  which  projects  from  behind  the  castle.  Its  position  and  circum¬ 
stances  are  eminently  grand.  On  returning  by  the  n.  bank  of  the  river, 
the  sides  of  the  dingle  appear  magnificently  lofty  and  abrupt,  but  drearily 
barren.  The  ascent  is  less  difficult  than  on  the  s.  side.  Regaining  the 
banks  of  the  Wye,  the  next  object  is  a  pleasing  spot  called  the  Skreen,  the 
family  estate  of  Mrs.  Harris. 

Llandeilo  Grahan  is  a  small  chapelry,  close  by  Llanhychllyn  Pool,  the 
largest  lake  in  Radnorshire,  but  smaller  than  Llyn  Safaddan  by  one  third; 
it  contains  trout,  eels,  &c.  Aherediv  Castle  and  village,  appearing  in  a  pretty 


HOLYHEAD. 


298 


valley  on  the  right,  much  noticed  in  Cambrian  annals,  afford  very  attractive 
objects.  This  village  derives  its  name  from  its  situation  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Edw,  where  that  river  falls  into  the  Wye.  The  castle  belonged  to  Llywellyn 
ap  Gryffydd,  the  last  refuge  of  the  last  independent  prince  of  Wales.  This 
spot  possesses  a  striking  wildness.  After  having  passed  the  bridge,  just  by 
the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers,  a  path  on  the  r.  leads  up  a  hill,  and  to 
the  top  of  a  rock  above  the  Edw.  Here  is  an  uncommonly  romantic  scene. 
Almost  close  by  the  foundations  whence  the  general  view  may  be  taken,  are 
the  church  and  its  yard.  The  view  from  the  latter  is  exquisitely  beautiful. 
The  village  is  mean,  but  its  situation  delightful.  After  winding  down  the 
deep  descent  of  its  little  street,  to  the  water’s  edge  opposite  the  mill,  a  fa¬ 
vourable  subject  for  the  pencil  is  presented.  Pen-careg  gave  birth  to 
Thomas  Jones,  pupil  of  Wilson,  and  friend  of  Mortimer.  He  died  on 
his  family  estate  in  May,  1803.  After  passing  a  considerable  way  up  this 
very  interesting  valley,  at  a  bend  of  the  river,  the  traveller,  instead  of  pur¬ 
suing  its  circuitous  course,  mounts  the  hill  before  him,  which  leads  to  the 
village  Cregrina,  where  there  is  nothing  remarkable.  A  road  leads  through 
Trow  Penarth  to  Forest  Colwyn,  which  overlooks  the  Edw,  from  an  emi¬ 
nence.  Coming  into  the  high  road  from  Builth  to  Presteign,  on  the  top  of 
a  very  high  hill  is  Llynhilyn  Pool,  of  circular  shape,  about  a  mile  in  cir¬ 
cumference,  containing  abundance  of  fish.  So  large  a  body  of  "water 
collected  in  such  a  situation  is  rare ;  yet  there  are  phenomena  in  Cardigan¬ 
shire  of  the  same  kind,  and  of  much  greater  magnitude.  At  Harpton,  be¬ 
tween  Old  and  New  Radnor,  there  is  a  large  oak,  girth  27  feet. 

From  Hay  to  Abergavenny,  Mr.  W yndham  took  the  nearest  road.  The 
route  over  the  Black  Mountain  was  intricate  and  boggy,  till  he  reached  the 
source  of  the  Honddu,  near  Capel-y-Ffin,  situated  in  the  very  inmost  recesses 
of  the  vale  of  Ewyas  ;  the  current  of  which  he  followed  to  Le Anthony. 

On  the  left  of  the  road  from  Hay  to  Brecon,  a  stately  round  turret 
announces  the  ancient  retreat  of  the  Clifford  family,  where  Mahel,  the 
unfortunate  son  of  Milo  Earl  of  Hereford  lost  his  life. 

On  the  turnpike-road  to  Brecon,  pass  Gldshury,  4  m.  (at  the  distance  of 
1  m.  on  the  r.  is  Maeslougli  Castle,  Walter  Wilkins,  Esq.  M.P.  Within 
1^  m.  is  Tregoed,  Lord  Viscount  Hereford.  4  m.  on  the  r.  is  Llangoed 
Castle,  J.  Macnamara,  Esq. ;  1  m.  on  the  1.  of  the  road  is  Gwern-y-fod 
Lodge,  Sir  Edward  Williams,  Bart.  On  the  1.  Genoved  Lodge,  H.  Allen, 
Esq.  On  the  r.  is  the  road  to  Builth,  15  m.  on  the  1.  to  Crugcornel, 
15|  m.)  Bronllys  (Inn),  3  m.  1  f.  (1  m.  on  the  1.  i^Aherenig  Place, 
late  H.  Allen,  Esq.  About  half-way  to  Velinvach,  on  the  r.,  is  Pontywal 
Hall,  Thomas  Phillips,  Esq.  Further  on  the  r.  is  Treharried,  David  Lloyd, 
Esq.  Felin  Fach  Inn,  3|  m.  Brecon,  4  m.  3  fur. 

Hay  is  a  favourite  resort  of  anglers.  The  Fishing  Stations  in  this  neigh¬ 
bourhood  are,  Crickardan,  11^  m. ;  Aherlyfni,  4  m.^  here  is  good  angling  ; 
Bronllys,  Pipton,  4^  m. ;  Llanstephan,  7|-  m.,  on  the  Wye;  Powis 

Castle,  6  m.,  on  the  Bachwy. 


To  New  Radnor,  12  miles.  Malkin. 
Llanthony,  11  miles.  Wyndliam. 
Builth,  19  miles.  Malkin. 


To  Kington,  12  miles.  Lipscomb. 

Mr.  Skrine  ended  his  tour  in  S.  Wales  at  this 
place. 


HOLYHEAD. 


From^Gwyndy,  lOr  miles.  Bingley. 
Llanelian,  22  miles.  Pennant. 


From  Amlwch,  miles.  Pugh. 
Dublin,  60  miles. 


HOLYHEAD,  orCAERGVBi,  ^“^the  Fortressof  Cybi,”'a  sea-port,  borough, 
market-town,  and  parish.  This  personage  also  named  Corineus,  was  a  son  of 


HOLYHEAD. 


299 

Solomon  Duke  of  Cornwall,  and  pupil  of  Hilarius  Bishop  of  Poictiers, 
about  the  year  380.  In  honour  of  his  preceptor  he  called  one  of  the  head¬ 
lands  of  this  insulated  spot^  jSL  Hilary's,  now  St.  EUaris,  Point.  Mr.  Owen, 
the  Cambrian  biographer,  says  he  was  a  son  of  Selyf  ab  Geraint  ab  Erbin, 
and  flourished  in  the  6th  century.  Holyhead  is  partly  in  the  hundred  of 
Llyfon  and  partly  in  that  of  Tal-y-bolion,  county  of  Anglesea.  The  living 
is  a  curacy  not  in  charge,  in  the  patronage  of  the  principal  and  fellows  of 
Jesus  College,  Oxford.  Its  population  in  1831,  was  4282.  The  market- 
day  is  on  Saturday.  It  has  no  fairs  or  manufactories.  This  parish  con¬ 
tains  about  3000  acres  of  land,  of  which  about  one  half  is  cultivated,  the 
other  half  being  in  general  very  rocky.  Holyhead,  in  consequence  of  the 
intimate  communication  between  the  two  kingdoms,  has  greatly  increased 
and  improved.  It  is  large  and  well  built,  possessing  accommodation  for 
all  classes  of  the  passengers  who  embark  here.  The  peninsula  on  which  the 
town  is  situated  being  the  nearest  point  of  land  towards  Dublin,  has  become 
the  resort  of  people  who  pass  between  England  and  Ireland.  The  distance 
is  20  leagues.  This  passage  is  considered  much  safer  than  those  from  Liver¬ 
pool  or  Parkgate.  This  preference  arises  hence  :  the  shipping  being  able  to 
clear  land  in  a  shorter  time,  is  in  less  danger  of  being  embayed.  The  vessels 
employed  by  the  post-office  are  remarkably  stout  and  well-constructed 
sloops,  strongly  manned,  and  the  masters  are  skilful.  In  stormy  weather 
packets  have  been  kept  at  sea  two  or  three  days,  but  in  favourable  winds  and 
weather  the  passage  is  performed  in  nine  hours,  and  sometimes  even  in  six. 

The  Harbour  spreads  over  a  large  space  inland,  forming  a  basin  in  the 
shape  of  a  horseshoe,  extending  1  m.  from  one  point  to  the  other.  The 
tide  runs  rapidly  out,  and  the  port  becomes  dry. 

The  Pier  is  one  of  the  finest  in  England,  lying  upon  the  e.  side  of 
Holyhead  harbour,  which  now  enables  vessels  to  ride  in  four  fathoms 
of  water,  instead  of  being  stranded  or  lying  aground.  Formerly  the  tide 
had  to  flow  three  hours  at  spring,  and  four  at  neap  tides,  before  a  ship 
could  get  out.  It  extends  about  500  yards  from  an  iron  swivel  bridge, 
where  there  is  reserved  a  most  useful  w.  passage. 

At  the  extremity  of  the  town  is  a  handsome  swivel-bridge  over  the 
sound,  connecting  the  pier  with  the  main  land.  Beyond  are  the  en¬ 
gineer’s  house,  custom-house,  harbour-master’s  offices,  and  depot  for  post- 
office  stores.  Still  further  is  a  triumphal  arch  commemorating  the  visit 
of  George  IV.  in  1821.  It  is  composed  of  Mona  marble.  This  is  now 
the  principal  station  of  the  post-office  packets  for  the  conveyance  of 
letters  to  Dublin.  A  new  line  of  road  is  formed  under  the  walls  of  the 
town  to  the  pier.  In  further  aid  of  this  plan,  a  new  road  is  formed 
quite  across  the  country,  from  Cadnant  Island  to  the  port,  by  which 
the  distance  is  reduced  from  25  to  18  m.,  and  several  hills  avoided. - 
Upon  the  summit  of  the  mountain  called  Pen-Caer-Cybi,  is  Caer  twr, 
a  circular  building  10  ft.  in  diameter,  which  Mr.  Pennant  supposes  to  be 
the  remains  of  an  ancient  Pharos  or  watch-tower.  Upon  the  side  of  the 
mountain  runs  a  long  dry  w’^all  10  ft.  high,  in  some  places  faced  and 
entire. 

A  religious  house  is  said  to  have  been  erected  here,  by  Prince  Maelgwyn,  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  6th  century ;  but  the  house  for  canons  regular,  called 
the  College,  appears  to  have  been  founded  by  Hwfa  ap  Cynddelw,  Lord  of 
Llys  Llifon,  a  contemporary  of  Owain  Gwynedd,  who  began  his  reign  in 
1137*  This  college  was  granted  by  James  I.  to  Francis  Morris  and  Francis 
Phillips.  It  afterwards  became  the  property  of  Rice  Gwynne,  Esq.,  who, 
in  the  year  1640,  transferred  the  great  tithes  to  Jesus  College,  Oxford,  for 


300 


HOLYHEAD. 


the  maintenance  of  two  scholars  and  two  fellows.  From  that  time  the 
parish  has  been  served  by  a  curate  nominated  by  the  college. 

The  collegiate,  now  the  parochial  Churchy  is  dedicated  to  Cybi,  son  of 
Selyf  ab  Geraint  ab  Erbin,  cousin  and  contemporary  of  St.  David.  It  is 
a  handsome  embattled  cruciform  structure,  consisting  of  a  chancel,  nave, 
aisles,  and  transept,  with  a  square  tower,  surmounted  by  a  low  flat  kind  of 
spire.  It  was  erected  about  the  time  of  Edward  III.  The  inside  of  the 
porch  and  external  part  of  the  s.  end  of  the  transept  are  decorated  with  rude 
carvings.  On  the  latter  are  the  figures  of  a  dragon,  a  man  leading  a  bear, 
and  other  grotesque  representations.  On  the  pediments  and  battlements  are 
cherubic  heads,  and  on  one,  two  figures  in  a  supplicating  posture,  with  this 
inscription — Sancta  Kybi  ora  pro  nobis.”  The  cemetery  has  been  strongly 
fortified.  The  enclosure  is  220  feet  long,  and  130  feet  wide.  Along  the 
walls  are  two  rows  of  circular  holes.  These  perforations  are  found  in  most 
of  the  British  forts,  and  many  contradictory  opinions  have  been  given  by 
writers,  to  which  our  limits  do  not  allow  us  to  refer. 

There  are  the  remains  of  several  chapels  in  this  parish,  namely,  Capel-y- 
Lochwyd,  Capel-y-Towyn,  and  Capel  Gwyngeneu,  Capel-y-Gorlas. 

A  School  was  established  here  in  1745,  the  structure  of  which  was  con¬ 
structed  of  materials,  taken  from  an  ancient  religious  edifice,  called  Llany- 
y-Gwyddel,  or  the  Irish  Church. 

A  Public  Room  and  Baths  have  been  opened  for  public  accommodation. 

At  the  extremity  of  the  pier  and  the  entrance  into  the  harbour  is  a  mag¬ 
nificent  Lighthouse. 

Another  Lighthouse  has  been  erected  upon  an  isolated  rock  on  the 
coast  5  m.  to  the  w.  of  Holyhead,  called  the  South  Stack.  The  reflection  is 
produced  by  21  brilliant  lamps,  with  powerful  reflectors  displaying 
a  full-faced  light  every  two  minutes,  from  an  elevation  of  140  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  at  high  water  mark.  It  is  visible  over  the 
whole  of  Caernarvon  Bay.  This  revolving  light  is  easily  distinguishable 
from  that  upon  the  island  of  Skerries,  from  which  it  bears  s.  w.  half  w. 
nearly  8  m.  In  1827,  a  suspension  chain  bridge  was  thrown  over  the  sound, 
span  110  ft.  A  moveable  Red-light  is  also  placed  at  the  South  Stack, 
chiefly  for  the  use  of  the  government  packets.  Asplenium  marinura  occurs 
here. 

A  Railroad  from  Chester,  uia  Bangor  to  Holyhead,  is  in  contemplation. 

The  Promontory  of  the  Head  is  an  immense  precipice  of  rock  hollowed 
into  magnificent  caverns.  One,  the  most  remarkable,  has  received  the 
name  of  Parliament  House,  accessible  only  by  boats  at  half-ebb  tide.  Grand 
arches  of  different  shapes,  supported  by  pillars,  exhibit  an  astonishing 
scene.  This  high  cliff  affords  shelter  to  innumerable  birds,  such  as 
pigeons,  gulls,  razor  bills,  ravens,  guillemots,  cormorants,  and  herons.  Upon 
the  highest  crags  lurks  the  peregrine  falcon,  in  high  repute  when  falconry 
was  in  fashion.  The  eggs  of  this  bird  are  sought  after  by  epicures  as  a 
most  delicious  food.  The  prices  which  are  offered  induces  poor  men  to 
follow  the  adventurous  trade  of  obtaining  them.  In  this  undertaking  two 
persons  always  engage.  A  strong  stake  is  driven  into  the  ground  at  some 
distance  from  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  to  which  a  rope  sufficiently  long  is 
attached.  Fastening  the  other  end  round  his  middle,  taking  the  coil  upon 
his  arm,  and  laying  hold  with  both  his  hands,  he  throws  himself  over  the 
brow  of  the  cliff,  placing  his  feet  against  its  sides,  and  constantly  shifting 
his  hands,  he  descends  to  the  abode  of  the  birds  ;  then  putting  his  left 
hand  into  the  nest,  suspending  himself  by  the  other,  he  secures  the  con¬ 
tents,  placing  the  eggs  in  a  basket  slung  upon  his  back.  Having  robbed 


HOLYHEAD. 


SOI 


every  nest  within  his  extent  of  rope,  he  ascends  by  the  same  means  to  the 
edge  of  the  cliff,  where  his  partner,  whose  duty  it  is  to  guard  the  secur¬ 
ity  of  the  stake,  laying  himself  down  flat  upon  the  ground,  assists  him  in 
doubling  the  cliff,  which  otherwise  he  could  not  effect.  A  slip  of  the  foot 
or  the  hand  at  this  moment  must  be  fatal  to  both. 

Messrs-.  Ayton  and  Daniell  made  a  complete  survey  of  this  promontory, 
which  the  former  describes  as  follows  :  — Immediately  on  quitting  the  har¬ 
bour,  we  had  the  Head  in  view.  The  intervening  coast  is  much  shattered  and 
indented,  composed  of  a  green  magnesian  slate  rock,  in  vertical  strata. 
About  1  m.  to  the  w.  of  the  harbour  are  two  or  three  low  dark  caverns  at 
the  base  of  the  cliffs.  Reaching  the  s.  w.  point  of  Holyhead  Bay,  the  coast 
turns  abruptly  to  the  s.  We  arrived  presently  at  the  n.  and  s.  Stacks.  The 
former  is  a  mass  of  black  rock  of  inconsiderable  height.  The  latter  is  much 
loftier.  Upon  the  summit  is  a  Lighthouse,  a  handsome  white  tower  and 
a  single  cottage.  Between  the  Stacks,  the  promontory  bears  the  form  of  a 
crescent,  descending  to  the  sea  in  a  continued  precipice,  in  places  300  feet  in 
height.  We  returned  close  into  the  shore.  A  little  to  the  s.  of  the  n. 
Stack,  are  some  grand  caverns,  the  largest  of  which  is  called  the  Parlia¬ 
ment  House.  We  enter  through  a  noble  arch  of  about  70  feet  high.  The 
cavern  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  shore.  The  whole  promontory  is 
chloritic  schist,  in  strata  of  about  6  feet.  The  arch  we  entered  faces  the 
w.,  the  other  inclines  to  the  s.,  and  is  larger  and  very  wide,  admitting  light 
to  every  part  of  the  cavern.  The  sea,  the  rocks  without,  and  the  Stack 
crowned  with  its  lofty  tower,  appear  through  this  magnificent  portal  with 
singular  effect.  A  little  to  the  s.  of  this  cavern  the  face  of  the  cliff  has  a 
very  striking  and  magnificent  appearance.  For  an  extent  of  about  70 
yards  the  strata  present  their  edges  to  the  sea,  slightly  divided,  resembling  a 
facade  of  slender  column,  descending  from  an  elevation  of  250  feet  per¬ 
pendicularly  to  the  sea.  Various  sea-fowl  breed  in  these  cliffs.  Leaving 
this  cave  and  rounding  a  slight  projection,  the  s.  stack  opens  anew,  in  the 
highest  degree  fanciful  and  picturesque.  The  islet  is  connected  to  the 
main  land  by  a  rope  bridge.  Rowing  to  the  s.  side  of  the  islet,  the  bridge 
is  seen  in  all  its  connections.  From  its  termination  at  the  Head,  zigzag  steps 
lead  up  to  the  summit  of  the  clifl*,  which  rises  420  ft.  above  the  sea.  We 
landed  near  the  n.  e.  point  of  the  stack,  close  at  the  entrance  of  a  large 
cavern,  less  magnificent,  but  more  strikingly  picturesque  than  the  Parlia¬ 
ment  House.  The  cliff  is  90  ft.  high,  and  the  mouth  of  the  cavern  about 
50.  The  interior  spreads  into  a  spacious  chamber,  and  a  low  passage  to  the 
1.  is  continued  through  the  stack.  The  face  of  the  rock  looks  as  if  figured 
over  with  tracery,  spotted  with  many  stains  and  some  veins  of  white 
quartz.  The  stack  is  oblong  and  about  i  m.  in  circumference.  It  rises  in 
abrupt  and  naked  precipices,  and  exhibits  on  each  side  some  new  and  un¬ 
common  appearance  in  the  arrangement,  and  various  modulations  of  the 
rocks.  The  Lighthouse,  which  was  first  exhibited  Feb.  1809,  stands 
near  the  w.  extremity  upon  its  highest  pT)int.  To  the  s.  of  it  is  the  deep 
and  dangerous  Bay  of  Caernarvon  ;  and  to  the  w.,  a  violent  race.  Two  men, 
who  have  the  charge  of  lighting  and  watching  the  lamps  have  a  comfortable 
cottage  upon  the  stack,  and  a  garden.  We  returned  to  Holyhead  by  land. 
The  ascent  to  the  summit  of  the  Head  is  exceedingly  grand.  This  part  of  it 
facing  the  stack  projects  from  the  line  of  coast  to  the  r.,  forming  a  two- 
sided  precipice.  When  nearly  at  the  summit,  we  had  a  most  magnificent 
view  of  the  remaining  front  of  the  Head.  From  its  s.  extremity  to  the 
entrance  of  the  strait  which  separates  the  islet  from  Anglesea,  the  coast  is 
low,  but  rocky  and  deeply  indented.  We  ascended,  with  some  difficulty. 


302 


HOLYHEAD. 


to  the  highest  point  of  the  mountain,  called  Pen-y-gaer-Gyhi^  ^700  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  lower  part  has  been  surrounded  by  an 
immense  dry  wall,  now  much  broken  down.  The  entire  parts  are  9  or  10 
ft.  high,  and  12  ft.  thick.  The  Signal  House  is  a  small  neat  cottage, 
in  the  form  of  a  circular  tower,  with  an  embattled  parapet.  A  man  and 
his  wife  reside  in  it,  whose  business  it  is  to  look  for  the  approach  of  the 
packets,  and  to  give  notice  by  signal.  At  a  short  distance  to  the  n.  are  the 
remains  of  Capel  Llochwyd.  Close  to  this  chapel  there  is  a  curious  rent  in  the 
mountain.  Not  far  from  the  chapel  is  a  earn.  Descending  down  the  e.  side 
of  this  elevation,  there  are  a  few  rude  and  weather-beaten  cottages  scattered 
about  its  skirts,  in  which  live  some  very  old  people.  They  never  eat  flesh, 
nor  drink  spirits  or  ale,^but  live  entirely  on  barley  bread,  milk,  potatoes,  and 
herrings.  They  are  very  poor ;  but  they  are  not  worn  out  by  excessive 
labour,  and  suffer  less  from  short  meals  than  they  would  from  excess.” 
Mr.  Daniellhas  embellished  the  well-written  Voyage  round  Great  Britain,” 
by  R.  Ayton,  with  very  correct  and  highly  finished  views,  among  which 
are  the  Harbour,  Lighthouse,  Holyhead  ;  part  of  the  s.  Stack,  i.  e.  the 
entrance  to  the  cave,  with  the  boat  suspended ;  the  Rope  Bridge,  and 
the  Lighthouse  upon  the  s.  Stack.  (Vol.  i.  p.  200 — 207.) 

Close  to  the  sea  there  is  a  large  vein  of  white,  and  another  of  yellow, 
Fuller’s  earth,  of  good  quality,  on  the  n.  side  of  Holyhead  mountain. 

The  Cistus  guttatus  is  found  upon  sandy  pastures,  or  the  mountain  LlecJi- 
ddu  ;  and  the  Ranunculus  parviflorus  on  gravelly  soil,  in  this  neighbourhood. 

To  Bangor.  Having  passed  from  Beaumaris  to  Amlwch  and  Holyhead, 
the  following  circuitous  route  to  Bangor  will  complete  the  circuit  of  the 
island.  About  1  m.  to  the  s.  e.  of  Holyhead,  upon  a  farm  called  Tref~ 
Arddwr,  are  the  remains  of  a'cromlech,  in  rather  a  perfect  state.  Advancing, 
a  common  occurs,  called  Towyn-y-Capel,  bounded  on  the  w.  side  by  rocks, 
over  which  the  sea  sometimes  breaks  in  an  awful  manner.  The  s.  part  con¬ 
stitutes  the  parish  of  Rlioscolyn.  Near  the  four-mile  bridge  is  a  quarry  of 
serpentine,  or  marble.  The  channel,  which  divides  this  tract  from  the 
other  part  of  Anglesea,  is  narrow,  and  in  some  places  fordable  at  low  water. 
The  great  Irish  road  is  carried  over  a  bridge,  called  Rhyd-y-Bont.  The 
country  hence  to  the  s.  w.  part  of  Anglesea  is  uninteresting  and  dreary.  On 
this  route  a  custom  prevails  of  sounding  horns  to  call  the  labourers  in  the 
fields  to  work.  There  are  two  roads  from  Y-felinwen  near  Llanfair-Pwll- 
Gwyngill,  to  Aberffraw,  distant  about  7  m.  The  first  on  the  1.  is  over 
Towyn  Trewin  Common,  crossing  Afon  Crigell,  with  Llyn  Maelog  on  the 
r.  to  Llanfaelog  ;  where  the  road  turns  to  the  r.  and  then  falls  into  another 
which  lies  nearer  the  sea,  across  the  Cymmyran  Bay.  Within  1-^^* 
of  Aberfraw  pass  Llangwyfan  on  the  r.  The  coast  consists,  for  the  space 
of  4  m.,  of  nothing  but  barren  sands,  without  even  a  track  to  follow.  The 
traveller  must  be  careful  to  attend  to  instructions  which  he  will  gain,  of 
making  for  ^certain  objects  which  will  be  pointed  out.  Aberffraw  is  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Fraw  with  the  bay  of  Caernarvon.  In  9^2  it  was 
ravaged  by  the  Irish.  It  was  one  of  the  three  royal  residences  of  Wales, 
and  a  seat  of  their  principal  courts  of  justice.  Roderic  the  Great  consti¬ 
tuted  this  place  the  seat  of  government,  about  the  year  870,  and  it  continued 
a  royal  residence  till  the  death  of  Llywelyn  in  1282.  Here  the  princes  of 
N.  Wales  had  for  several  centuries  a  magnificent  palace,  and  here  was  depo¬ 
sited  one  of  the  three  copies  of  the  celebrated  code  of  laws  enacted  by  Howel 
Dda.  Another  copy  of  those  laws  was  kept  at  Dinevawr.  Some  trifling 
remains  of  the  ancient  palace  are  shown  in  the  walls  of  a  building  now  used 
as  a  barn.  In  the  year  1831  this  village  contained  1367  inhabitants. 
The  employments  pursued  here  are  husbandry  and  fishing.  A  small  har- 


HOLYHEAD. 


303 


hour  admits  sloops  of  40  tons  burden^  and  affords  a  facility  of  exporting 
corn.  Several  thousand  bushels  of  oats  and  barley  are  annually  shipped ; 
a  certain  proof  of  the  fertility  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  Church, 
dedicated  to  St.  Cewydd,  is  a  plain  building  consisting  of  a  nave  and  chancel, 
separated  by  a  screen  with  a  square  tower.  This  edifice  is  bounded  on  one 
side  by  a  steep  precipice,  at  the  foot  of  which  the  Edwy  flows  through  a 
narrow  defile  of  rocks,  rising  on  one  side  to  nearly  300  feet.  The  scene 
is  indescribably  fine,  and  calculated  to  inspire  the  mind  with  a  thrilling 
sensation  of  awe.  Among  these  was  an  occasional  retreat  of  the  brave  but 
ill-fated  Llywellyn.  Two  methodist  chapels  have  been  erected  here. 

At  this  place  was  born  Walter  Steward,  the  ancestor,  according  to 
Rowlands,  of  the  royal  house  of  Stuart.  (See  Mona  Antiqua,  p.  175.)  Near 
Aberffraw  have  been  frequently  found  the  amulets,  called  gleiniau  nadroedd, 
or  snake  gems,”  supposed  to  have  been  manufactured  by  the  Romans  and 
exchanged  for  exports  with  the  Britons.  The  Welsh  still  attach  great 
virtues  to  these  rings,  using  them  to  cure  coughs,  the  ague,  or  to  assist 
children  in  cutting  their  teeth.  Thomas  Jones,  the  landscape  painter,  was 
born  at  Pencareg,  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place.  Near  the  town  is  Llangwy- 
fan ;  the  Church  is  seated  upon  a  rock.  In  this  vicinity  is  Llyn  Goi'on, 
about  2  m.  in  circumference,  abounding  with  trout,  gwyniad,  and  other  fish. 
It  is  much  frequented  in  summer  by  anglers.  Llan-Gadwaladr,  lyng  s.  e. 
of  the  lake,  distant  nearly  2  m.  from  Aberfraw.  The  church  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  Cadwaladr,  last  king  of  the  Britons.  The  stone  men¬ 
tioned  by  Rowlands  yet  remains,  forming  the  lintel  of  the  s.  entrance  door¬ 
way.  Antiquaries  differ  in  deciphering  the  inscription.  The  author  just 
mentioned  reads  it  thus  : — 


CATAMANUS  REX  SAPIENTISSIMUS  OPTMATISSIMUS  OMNIUM  REGUM. 

He  supposes  it  commemorates  Catamanus  or  Cadfan,  the  grandfather  of  the 
founder,  who  was  interred  here.  See  plate  ix  of  Mona  Antiqua  Restorata. 


The  following  epitaph  also  occurs  iu  Llan-Gadwaladr  church  :  — 

In  obitum  Owini  Woode,  armigeri,  qui  obiit  6  die  April,  Ao.  Dni.  1602. 

^Etat.  suae  76. 


Felix  ter  felix  marmor  quia  nobile  lignum 
Quo  caret  infelix  insula,  marmor,  hahes. 
Owen  et  patriae  vivens  fuit  utile  lignum, 

Et  lignum  vitae  post  sua  fata  Deo. 

Filius  ista  meo  posui  monumenta  parenti, 

Sit  precor  ut  tecum  nomen  ita  Owen  idem. 


Passing  a  sandy  desert  of  2  m.  gain  the  hill  of  Llanfeirian,  the  best 
eminence  in  Anglesea,  commanding  a  prospect  of  nearly  the  whole  island. 
Bodorgan  lies  l  b  m.  to  the  r.  situated  upon  an  eminence,  clothed  with  wood, 
surrounded  by  a  small  park,  and  stocked  with  deer.  The  varied  prospects 
are  singularly  striking.  This  mansion  is  a  modern  structure  of  stone,  built 
from  a  design  by  Defflrd,  and  is  the  residence  of  Owen  Putland  Meyrick, 
Esq.  The  Malldraeth  Estuary  may  be  crossed  by  a  ferry,  but  at  low  water 
the  sands  are  fordable.  The  difficulty,  however,  of  this  pass  causes  New- 
borough  to  be  seldom  visited.  This  Traeth  is  an  arm  of  the  sea,  ffowing 
far  up  into  the  land.  The  direction  is  s.  w.  to  n.  e.  stretching  from  Llan- 
ddwyn  Point  to  Llangefni  Bridge,  about  12  m.  It  is  flanked  by  two  ranges 
of  limestone-rock,  which  run  in  the  same  line  of  bearing,  to  Red-wharf 
Bay,  across  the  island.  A  fine  embankment  once  existed  across  the  Traeth, 
but  is  now  in  ruins. 


To  Bangor,  24  miles.  Pugh. 

Amlwch,  over  cross  roads,  20  miles.  Bingley. 
Gwindy,  10^  miles.  Pennant. 


To  Beaumaris,  27  miles. 

London  by  Chester,  279  miles. 

■  - —  Shrewsbury,  267  miles. 


304 


HOLYWELL. 


From  Flint  5  miles,  Bingley  ;  Skrine  ;  Pugh. 
Northop,  6  miles.  Bingley. 

St.  Asaph,  10  miles.  Aikin. 


From  Denbigh,  12  miles.  Warner.  ’ 
Caerwys,  6  miles.  Wyndham. 
Chester,  18  miles. 


HOLYWELL,  or  Trefynnon,  i.  e.  “  the  Town  of  the  Well,"’  by  far  the 
most  important  town  in  Flintshire,  lies  on  the  great  road  from  Chester  to 
Holyhead.  The  manufactures  and  lead  mines  in  its  vicinity,  united  to  its 
easy  access  to  the  sea,  have  rendered  it  the  great  mart  to  this  part  of  the 
kingdom.  It  is  spacious  but  irregular ;  and  pleasingly  situated  on  the  slope  of 
a  mountain,  which  extends  nearly  to  the  estuary  of  the  Dee.  Many  of  the  houses 
are  handsome,  and  the  place  altogether  bears  an  air  of  considerable  opulence, 
being  lighted  with  gas.  In  1801  its  population  amounted  to  5567  inhabit¬ 
ants  ;  in  1  831  to  8969*  Inns  :  The  Red  Lion,  White  Horse,  and  King’s  Arms. 

An  admirer  of  the  works  of  art  may,  at  this  place,  find  his  taste  amply 
gratified  by  viewing  the  numerous  works  of  lead,  calamine,  copper,  brass, 
and  cotton.  The  parish  church  has  a  plain,  square,  and  embattled 
tower  of  great  strength.  It  is  dedicated  to  Gwenfrewi,  or  St.  MTnifred  ; 
situated  in  a  bottom  at  one  end  of  the  town,  and  so  low  that  the  prayer- 
bell  can  be  heard  only  at  a  very  little  distance.  Under  the  chancel  are  family 
vaults  of  the  Mostyns  of  Talacre  ;  also  of  the  Pennants  andPantons  of  Bagillt. 
In  the  chancel  is  a  neat  memorial  of  Mary,  mother  to  the  late  Edward 
Pennant,  Esq. 

The  church  was  erected  in  the  year  1769,  in  which  the  columns  of  a 
former  ancient  fabric  separate  the  nave  from  the  aisles.  These  appear  of 
Norman  origin.  The  edifice  forms  a  plain  neat  structure  with  a  square 
tower  at  the  w.  end.  During  the  erection,  the  headless  figure  of  a  priest 
was  discovered  in  sacerdotal  costume  and  chalice  in  hand.  This  mutilated 
sculpture  is  exhibited  by  the  sexton,  as  the  image  of  the  patroness  St.Wini- 
fred.  Here  are  several  places  of  worship  for  various  denominations  of 
dissenters.  Winifred's  Well,  from  which  the  name  of  Holy  Well  was 
given  to  this  place,  springs  with  impetuosity  from  a  rock  at  the  foot  of  a 
steep  hill  at  the  bottom  of  the  town.  This  fountain  is  covered  by  a  small 
Gothic  structure,  said  to  have  been  erected  by  Margaret,  the  mother  of 
Henry  VII.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  delicacy  and  elegance  of  the  carving 
on  the  inside  of  the  structure,  which  forms  a  canopy  over  the  well.  It  once 
contained  the  legend  of  St.  Winifred,  and  seven  sculptures  alluding  to  the 
house  of  Stanley,  by  whom  it  was  erected  ;  these  are  not  at  present  distin¬ 
guishable.  In  a  niche,  opposite  the  entrance,  stood  formerly  a  statue  of  the 
Virgin  Mary,  but  this  has  been  long  since  destroyed.  The  chapel  over  it, 
of  the  same  date  as  the  other  part  of  the  building,  is  private  pro¬ 
perty  ;  but  the  well,  in  consequence  of  a  decree  in  chancery,  is  open  to  the 
public  at  large.  Persons  of  the  Catholic  persuasion  believe  that  the  waters 
of  this  famed  fountain  have  lost  none  of  their  virtues.  A  pamphlet  pub¬ 
lished  to  substantiate  the  supernatural  character  of  this  spring  is  entitled. 

Authentic  Documents  relative  to  the  miraculous  Cure  of  Winifred 
White  of  the  Town  of  Wolverhampton,  at  Holywell,  in  Flintshire,  on  the 
28th  June,  1805  ;  with  Observations  thereon,  by  J.  M.  &c.” 

Two  festivals  are  observed  here,  one  in  memory  of  the  martyrdom  of  St. 
Winifred,  on  the  22d  of  June ;  and  another  for  her  translation  to  heaven,  on 
the  3d  of  November.  The  1st  Sunday  after  St.  James’s  day  is  a  holiday  in 
honour  of  some  other  Romish  saints,  and  is  called  Dydd-sul-y-saint,  or  the 


HOLYWELL. 


305 


Sunday  of  the  Saints,  The  chapel  is  now  converted  into  a  charity-school. 
The  well  is  an  oblong  square  about  12  ft.  by  7*  Pennant  says  it  is 
polygonal.  I’he  water  passes  through  an  arch  into  a  small  square  court ; 
under  this  arch  devotees  used  to  swim  as  an  act  of  penance.  The  legendary 
story  of  the  origin  of  this  well  is  singular  and  curious.  Winifred,  said  to 
have  lived  in  the  early  part  of  the  7th  century,  was  a  beautiful  and  devout 
virgin,  the  daughter  of  Thewith,  a  nobleman  of  these  parts,  and  niece  to 
St.  Beuno  ;  she  made  a  vow  of  perpetual  chastity.  Having  obtained  from  her 
father  leave  to  found  a  church  upon  bis  possessions  here,  he  was  so  much 
gratified  by  it  that  he  took  her  under  his  protection,  in  order  to  assist  her  in 
her  religious  exercises.  Caradog,  the  son  of  King  Alen,  whose  residence 
appears  to  have  been  not  far  distant,  admired  the  beauty  of  her  person,  and 
resolved  to  make  an  attempt  on  her  virtue.  It  is  said  that  he  made  known 
to  her  his  passion  on  a  Sunday  morning,  after  her  parents  were  gone  to 
church.  She  made  an  excuse  to  escape  from  the  room,  and  immediately 
ran  towards  the  church  ;  he  overtook  her,  says  superstition,  on  the  descent 
of  the  hill,  and  enraged  at  his  disappointment,  drew  his  sword  and  struck 
oflf  her  head.  He  had  scarcely  levelled  the  blow  when  he  fell  dead. 
Whether  the  earth  opened  and  swallowed  him,  or  he  was  suddenly  seized 
and  carried  off,  authors  do  not  say.  This,  however,  is  stoutly  averred, 
that  he  never  made  his  appearance  again  in  this  world  either  alive  or  dead  ! 
The  head  rolled  down  the  hill  to  the  altar,  at  which  the  congregation  were 
kneeling,  and  stopped  there,  a  clear  and  rapkl  fountain  immediately  gushed 
up.  St.  Beuno  snatched  up  the  head,  and  joined  it  to  the  body;  it  was,  to 
the  surprise  of  all  present,  immediately  reunited,  the  place  of  separation 
being  only  marked  by  a  white  line  encircling  her  neck  !  !  Caradog  is  said 
to  have  dropped  down  upon  the  spot  where  he  had  committed  this  atrocious 
act.  The  sides  of  the  well  were  henceforth  covered  with  a  sweet  scented 
moss,  and  the  stones  at  the  bottom  became  tinctured  with  her  blood.  Wini¬ 
fred  survived  her  decapitation  about  15  years;  and  towards  the  latter  end 
of  that  time,  having  received  the  veil  from  St.  Elerius,  at  Gwytherin,  in 
Denbighshire,  died  abbess  of  that  monastery,  and  was  buried  there,  where 
four  upright  stones  are  still  shown  as  Winifred’^  tomb.  According  to  Dug- 
dale,  the  bones  of  St.  Winifred  were  translated  from  Gwytherin  to  the 
abbey  of  St.  Peter  and  Paul,  at  Shrewsbury,  in  1138,  by  order  of  Robert, 
a  monk,  afterwards  an  abbot.  (See  his  Life  of  Winifrede,  1566.)  The 
well,  after  her  decease,  of  course,  became  endowed  with  many  miraculous 
properties.  If,  however,  truth  may  be  listened  to  with  as  much  deference 
as  Romish  tradition,  it  is  a  fact  that  the  sweet  scented  moss,  growing  plen¬ 
tifully  on  the  sides,  is  nothing  more  than  Jungermannia  asplenoides.  The 
supposed  tincture  of  her  blood  upon  the  stones  at  the  bottom  is  also  a  vege¬ 
table  production,  the  Byssus  iolithus  of  Linnaeus,  and  Lepraria  iolithus  of 
Smith.  i^E.  Bot.  2¥J1.^  The  devotees  of  the  saint  were  formerly  very 
numerous,  but  of  late  years  they  have  happily  decreased.  Yet  if  we  may  judge 
from  the  presence  of  seven  crutches  and  two  hand-barrows  stuck  among 
the  Gothic  ornaments  of  the  roof,  the  well  has  but  recently  been  forsaken. 
The  quantity  of  water  thrown  up  is  not  less  than  84  hogsheads  every 
minute.  It  has  not  been  known  to  freeze,  and  scarcely  ever  varies  in 
quantity,  either  in  droughts  or  after  the  greatest  rains. 

The  water-wheels  on  this  stream  decay  much  sooner  than  on  others.  A 
species  of  moss,  the  Hypnum  viparium,  vegetates  on  the  wood,  and  harbours 
the  larvae  of  an  insect  in  such  immense  quantities,  that  decomposition 
speedily  takes  place.  Hence  some  of  the  mills  have  adopted  cast-iron 
water-wheels. 


X 


306 


HOLYWELL. 


Proceeding  along  the  road  by  the  side  of  the  stream  for  about  a  mile^ 
and  crossing  the  marsh  to  the  r.^  appears  Basingwerk  Abbey,  or  Green  Fields 
in  a  meadow.  The  architecture  of  this  monastic  structure  is  no  way  re- 
rnarkahle^  either  for  its  elegance  or  good  execution.  The  doors,  and 
some  of  the  lower  arches,  are  semicircular,  simple,  and  unornamented  ; 
the  windows  long,  narrow,  and  pointed.  It  is  situated  upon  a  gentle 
eminence,  above  a  valley,  watered  by  the  copious  springs  which  issue 
from  St.  Winifred’s  Well.  Its  mouldering  walls  of  stone,  of  a  reddish 
colour,  are  shaded  by  some  fine  trees.  The  fragments  which  remain 
are  scarcely  sufficient  to  indicate  what  this  abbey  has  formerly  been.  The 
church,  which  lay  on  the  e.  side,  is  totally  destroyed.  The  Refectory  is 
tolerably  entire,  and  has  on  one  side  a  large  recess,  with  two  round  arches. 
The  columns  or  supporters  of  these  arches,  are  formed  of  rounded  stones, 
placed  one  upon  another  in  such  a  manner  as  to  appear  like  piles  of  cheese. 
The  dormitory,  or  cells  for  the  lodgings  of  the  monks,  with  a  small 
window  to  each,  were  above.  The  chapel  of  Knights  Templars,  founded 
here  by  Henry  II.,  is  spacious  and  elegant.  The  abbey  itself  was  inhabited 
about  the  year  1720,  but  afterwards  pulled  down,  by  order  of  Lady  Mostyn, 
to  build  a  house  near  the  ruins.  The  situation  is  delightful,  commanding 
an  extensive  prospect  of  the  river  Dee,  Chester,  Park  Gate,  and  the  Lan¬ 
castrian  Hills.  This  edifice  is  supposed  by  Tanner  to  have  been  founded 
about  1131,  by  Ranulph  Earl  of  Chester,  and  made  an  abbey  of  Cistercian 
monks,  by  Henry  II.,  in  1159*  In  the  26  of  Henry  VIII.,  its  lands  and 
possessions  produced  a  yearly  revenue  of  157^.  13^.  2d:  it  was  granted  by 
that  monarch  to  Henry  ap  Harry.  An  ancient  brick  barn,  which  stands 
near  the  ruins,  is  conjectured  to  have  been  the  grainery  belonging  to  the 
monastery.  A  grave  stone,  found  among  the  ruins,  records  the  interment 
here  of  George  Petre,  son  to  William  Lord  Petre,  Baron  of  Ingratestone, 
in  Essex.  He  died  at  Wexford  in  1647,  aged  34.  He  was  probably 
brought  to  this  place  on  account  of  its  supposed  sanctity.  At  a  short 
distance  from  the  ruins  is  an  oak  of  great  age,  called  the  Abbot's  Oak,  which 
measures  13  ft.  2  in.  in  circumference.  Not  far  from  this  place,  runs 
Watt’s  Dike,  upon  the  edge  of  which  stood  formerly  a  strong  fort,  called 
Basingwerk  Castle,  built,  as  Lord  Lyttelton  supposes,  by  one  of  the  earls 
of  Chester.  It  was  rebuilt  by  Henry  II.,  after  his  escape  from  Euloe, 
having  been  demolished  in  a  former  reign.  In  1165,  Owain  Gwynedd, 
after  many  unsuccessful  attempts,  took  it  by  storm,  and  then  levelled  it  to 
the  ground.  The  rich  pastures  which  immediately  surround  this  abbey 
and  the  plantations  on  every  side,  contribute  exceedingly  to  its  picturesque 
beauty.  The  oaks  and  elms,  though  a  large  size,  appear  withered  and 
blasted  by  the  channel-breezes  ;  but  the  sycamores  flourish,  even  to  their 
summits.  This  fact  may  afford  a  hint  to  planters.  The  sycamores  and 
maples,  indeed,  seem  to  be  the  only  trees,  which  are  not  liable  to  be  injured 
by  the  saline  winds,  and  spray  of  the  sea.  {Wyndham.') 

From  this  place,  Mr.  Skrine  ascended  a  very  long  and  steep  hill,  whence 
he  enjoyed  a  wonderful  prospect  to^vards  the  coast;  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  hill  rose  upon  hill  in  irregular  confusion,  till  the  Caernarvonshire 
mountains  closed  the  scene  ;  above  which,  the  lofty  summits  of  SnoAvdon 
towered  with  majestic  pre-eminence.  He  then  descended  into  the  fertile 
vale  of  Clwydd,  or  Dyffryn  clwyd,  a  tract  of  great  extent  and  singular 
fertility  and  beauty.  The  small  rivers  of  Clwydd  and  Elwy  run  nearly 
parallel  one  to  the  other,  through  the  greatest  part  of  its  length.  Pleasant 
villages  are  scattered  in  this  pleasing  territory,  and  its  three  towns,  Ruthin, 
Denbigh,  and  St.  Asaph,  stand  in  fine  positions. 


HOLYWELL. 


307 


Plants.  —  Anchusa  sempervirens^  among  the  ruins.  Campanula  Trache- 
lium_,  among  bushes,  near  the  castle.  Saponaria  officinalis,  among  the 
ruins  and  rubbish.  In  hedges,  near  Holywell,  grows  the  Campanula  latifolia; 
upon  calcareous  ground,  between  this  place  and  Ehyddlan,  the  Gentiana 
amarella  ;  on  the  road  sides,  3  m.  on  the  way  to  Rhyddlan,  G.  campes- 
tris,  with  the  former  species ;  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  by  the  road  from  the 
well  to  tlie  coast,  Chlora  perfoliata ;  upon  the  road  side  to  St.  Asaph 
Common,  Arenaria  verna ;  by  the  road-side,  midway  from  Llanerch 
bridge  and  Demeirchion,  Senecio  tenuifolia.  After  forming  a  scene  of 
monkish  legendary  fables,  Holywell  has  now,  happily,  become  a  nursery  of 
scientific  truth.  A  geological  and  natural  history  society  is  progressing 
most  conspicuously,  and,  as  the  last  report  states,  affords  a  gratifying 
evidence  that  the  neighbouring  gentry,  who,  on  other  occasions,  have  shown 
so  much  anxiety  for  the  general  welfare  of  the  country,  are  not  less  ready 
to  patronise  an  institution  established  for  the  diffusion  of  useful  knowledge 
and  science.”  The  society  contemplate  the  erection  of  a  public  room  for 
lectures,  library,  museum,  &c.  Four  mills  have,  through  the  exertions  of 
Mr.  Smalley,  been  erected,  which  produce  weekly  about  26,098  lbs.  of 
cotton  thread,  affording  employment  to  nearly  1000  persons.  By  this 
stream,  several  copper-mills  manufacture  upwards  of  a  1000  tons  of  that 
metal  into  bolts  for  ship  building,  cylinders,  and  wire.  Here  are  also  a 
large  iron-foundery  and  paper-mill. 

There  are  several  excellent  Inns  at  Holywell :  the  White  Horse,  Red 
Lion,  King’s  Arms,  and  King’s  Head,  are  the  principal. 

Near  Holywell  is  Downing,  once  the  seat  of  the  late  Thomas,  now  of 
David,  Pennant,  Esq.  To  the  indefatigable  researches  of  the  former,  the 
natural  history  and  topography  of  Great  Britain  are  under  deep  obligations. 
Downing  is  the  principal  house,  and  was  built  about  the  year  1627.  The 
present  name  is  evidently  a  corruption  of  Eden  Ow^ain,  the  name  of  the 
township  in  which  it  stands.  The  house  was  founded  by  John  Pennant, 
Esq.,  of  Bychton,  who,  marrying  the  heiress  of  this  place,  erected  an 
elegant  mansion.  The  stone  was  procured  from  a  dingle  called  Nant-y-bi, 
opposite  the  modern  edifice.  The  present  structure  is  erected  in  the  form 
of  a  Roman  H,  a  mode  of  architecture  common  in  Wales  at  that  period, 
with  this  ancient  and  pious  motto  on  the  front :  ‘^^Heb  Dduw  heb  ddim,  a 
duw  a  digon,”  signifying,  without  God  there  is  nothing;  with  God,  enough. 
The  grounds  are  very  extensive  and  diversified, '  containing  walks  along 
fine  swelling  lands,  beneath  the  shady  depth  of  glens,  or  through  contracted 
meads,  which  meander  to  the  shore  ;  with  delightful  views  towards  the 
hills,  and  the  ancient  Mynydd-y-Gareg,  a  Pharos,  or  Roman  lighthouse, 
over  the  channel  of  the  Dee  are  seen  the  Hilhree,  the  Middle,  and  the 
Eye  Isles.  On  the  first  grows  Statice  reticulata.  On  one  of  them  are 
some  remains  of  a  cell  of  Benedictines.  The  sea- view  is  animated  by  nume¬ 
rous  fleets  entering  and  quitting  the  port  of  Liverpool.  Below  the  house 
are  the  ruins  of  Malandina  Abbey,  which  add  considerable  beauty  to  the  view. 
The  house,  much  improved  by  Mr.  Pennant,  at  different  times,  consists 
of  a  hall  and  library,  with  a  large  parlour  adjoining,  and  a  smoking-room, 
most  antiquely  adorned  with  ancient  carvings,  and  horns  of  all  the  European 
beasts  of  chase.  Above  is  an  elegant  drawing-room,  and  a  tea-room.  The 
library,  which,  if  minutely  described,  would  fill  a  tolerably  sized  volume, 
contains  a  choice  collection  of  books,  chiefly  historical,  and  many  scarce 
editions  of  the  classics,  with  an  extensive  collection  of  MSS.,  solely  the 
produce  of  Mr.  Pennant’s  labour  and  industry.  Among  these,  is  a  copy  of 


308 


HOLYWELL. 


The  Outlines  of  the  Glohe^”  in  22  volumes,  folio,  with  ornaments, 
illuminations,  &c.  In  the  Hall  are  some  very  good  pictures  by  Peter 
Paillou,  an  inimitable  painter  of  animals  and  birds;  the  parlour  is  also 
filled  with  portraits  and  paintings,  mostly  reduced  from  originals  by  the 
ingenious  Moses  Griffith,  an  untaught  artist  of  N.  Wales,  who  accompanied 
Mr.  Pennant  in  most  of  his  tours  through  England,  Scotland,  and  W ales. 
Among  the  portraits  is  Charles  I.,  by  Vandyke,  in  a  scarlet  jacket. 
Another,  opposite,  is  that  of  Charles,  great  grandson  to  the  former. 

Howel,  of  humorous  epistolary  memory,  in  his  work,  entitled,  Epistolse 
Ho-Elianse,”  relates  a  wonderful  story  of  John  Pennant,  of  Bychton,  who 
exhibited  a  most  singular  phenomenon  in  physiology,  a  serpent  in  a  man’s 
heart.  It  forms  his  43d  letter,  and  is  addressed  to  that  organ  of  credulity. 
Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  Knt.  This  portentous  story  is  also  given  by  Dr. 
Edward  May,  in  a  quarto  pamphlet,  entitled,  A  most  certaine  and  true 
Relation  of  a  strange  Monster  or  Serpent,  found  in  the  left  Ventricle  of 
the  Heart  of  John  Pennant,  Gentleman,  of  the  Age  of  21  Years.  By 
Edward  May,  Doctor  of  Philosophy  and  Physick,  and  Professor  elect  of 
them  in  the  Colledge  of  the  Academy  of  Noblemen,  called  the  Musseumi 
Minervse.  Physitian  also  extraordinary,  unto  her  Most  Sacred  Majesty, 
Queene  of  Great-Britain,  &c.  London :  Printed  by  George  Millar, 

MDCXXXIX.” 

The  estate  also  abounds  with  coal-works,  as  do  the  environs  with  lead- 
mines,  particularly  one  hill,  on  which  is  a  cavern,  supposed  to  have  been 
formed  by  the  Romans  when  they  worked  these  and  the  neighbouring  mines. 
iJJniv.  Mag.,  Oct.  1801.)  Thomas  Pennant,  Esq.,  was  born  at  Downing, 
June  14th,  1726.  On  the  death  of  his  father,  he  became  possessed  of  a 
small  estate,  in  which  was  discovered  a  rich  mine  of  lead  ore  ;  this  circum¬ 
stance  enabled  him  to  improve  his  property,  and  gave  him  leisure  for 
literary  pursuits.  At  the  age  of  12,  John  Salusbury,  Esq.,  father  of 
Hester  Lynch,  gave  him  a  copy  of  M^illonghby’s  Ornithology,  which 
directed  the  bias  of  his  genius  to  natural  history.  Early  in  life,  he  surveyed, 
with  an  observant  eye,  the  most  interesting  parts  of  England  and  Ireland. 
In  1755  he  began  to  correspond  with  Linnseus.  He  subsequently  visited 
the  Continent,  and  became  acquainted  with  Buffon.  In  Switzerland  he 
connected  himself  with  Baron  Haller  ;  in  Holland  with  Pallas.  He  visited 
Scotland  in  the  years  17 69  and  1772,  and  made,  afterwards,  several 
excursions  in  N.  Wales.  His  talents  have  not  been  considered  brilliant, 
yet  they  were  usefully  employed.  His  disposition  was  beneficent ;  and  in 
the  capacity  of  a  magistrate  he  was  upright  and  just.  The  last  editions 
of  his  works  are  as  follow  :  —  British  Zoology,  3  vols.  1776,  vol.  iv.  1777  ; 
Synopsis  of  Quadrupeds,  8vo.  1771  ;  History  of  Quadrupeds,  2  vols.  4to. 
1792  ;  Genera  of  Birds,  8vo.  179^  ;  Indian  Zoology,  4to.  1792;  Arctic 
Zoology,  2  vols.  4to.  1792  ;  Tour  in  Scotland  in  1769:,  1774;  Tour  in 
Scotland,  1772,  3  vols.  4to.  1790  >  Tour  in  "Wales,  2  vols.  4to.  1784  ; 
Journey  from  Chester  to  London,  4to.  1782  ;  Account  of  London,  1791  1 
Literary  Life,  4to.  1793;  Hist,  of  lYhiteford  and  Holywell,  4to.  1796; 
Outlines  of  the  Globe,  vol.  L  and  ii.  4to.  1793  ;  Miscellanies,  30  copies 
from  a  private  press  ;  History  of  the  Patagonians,  from  the  same  press. 
The  following  posthumous  publications  appeared  in  1801;  i.  e.  Outlines 
of  the  Globe,  vols.  hi,  and  iv.  4to. ;  Journey  from  London  to  Dover,  4to. 
1801  ;  Journey  from  Dover  to  the  Isle  of  Wight.  Mr.  Pennant  died  of  a 
pulmonary  disease,  the  latter  end  of  1793,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son 
David,  who  is  said  to  do  honour  to  the  name  of  such  a  father.” 


HOLYWELL. 


S09 

Two  m.  N.  w.  of  Downing,  is  the  ancient  mansion  of  Tre  Mostyn, 
called  after  a  family  of  the  same  name.  The  house  is  approached  by  a 
magnificent  gateway,  called  Porth-mawr,  erected  at  the  termination  of  a 
venerable  avenue  of  forest  trees  ;  this  leads  to  one  vestibule  of  the  mansion, 
which  stands  in  a  small,  but  beautiful  park,  well  clothed  with  wood.  It  is 
supposed  to  have  been  erected  as  early  as  the  time  of  Henry  VL,  but  addi¬ 
tions  and  alterations  have  nearly  obliterated  its  original  character.  The 
gloomy  hall  is  furnished  with  the  high  Dais,  or  elevated  portion  of  the 
floor,  at  the  upper  end,  having  a  long  table  for  the  lord  and  his  jovial 
companions  ;  and  another  on  one  side,  the  seat  of  the  interior  partakers  of 
good  cheer.  This  mansion  resembles  one  at  Bolton,  in  Bowland,  York¬ 
shire,  which  is  very  magnificent,  and  supposed  to  be  the  most  ancient  in 
the  kingdom. 

The  walls  are  embellished  in  a  suitable  manner,  with  antique  militia 
guns,  swords  and  pikes,  helmets  and  breast-plates,  funereal  achievements, 
and  various  spoils  of  the  chase.  The  adjacent  kitchen  is  overlooked  by  a 
gallery  leading  to  the  ancient  apartments  of  the  lady  of  the  house.  A 
large  room  at  the  end  of  the  gallery  is  called  King  Henry’s  chamber,  from 
the  circumstance  of  Henry  Earl  of  Richmond,  the  heir  of  the  Lancastrian 
line,  and  grandson  to  Owain  Tudur,  having  left  Bretagny,  and  sought  refuge 
at  this  house.  Whilst  here,  a  party  attached  to  Richard  111.  attempted, 
by  force,  to  apprehend  him  ;  but  he  leaped  out  at  a  back  window,  and 
escaped  through  a  passage,  still  called  the  King’s.  In  1631,  a  considerable 
addition  was  made  to  the  house  by  Sir  Roger  Mostyn,  Knt.  This  forms 
part  of  the  present  front,  including  a  large  dining  and  drawing-room  above, 
with  a  spacious  bow-window  in  each. 

There  are  some  remarkable  portraits  of  the  Mostyns,  some  busts  collected 
in  Italy,  and  a  library,  containing  a  most  elegant  collection  of  the  classics, 
and  various  vellum  MSS.  Scarcely  any  private  library  can  boast  of  so 
valuable  an  assemblage.  The  family  are  besides  possessed  of  other 
antiquities.  Among  the  numerous  paintings  are  two,  finely  executed  by 
My  tens,  of  the  Hague,  representing  Sir  Roger  Mostyn,  Knt.,  and  his  lady. 

In  the  higher  part  of  this  township,  stands  the  curious  cross,  called 
Maen  Achwynfn,  or  the  Stone  of  Lamentation.  It  is  12  ft.  high,  and 
curiously  sculptured.  Near  it  is  an  ancient  edifice,  now  a  farm-house, 
called  Capal-y-Gelli.  From  a  hill  in  this  parish,  called  Gareg,  the  lofty  tract 
of  Snowdon  is  discernible,  from  the  crooked  Moel  Siabod,  at  one  end,  to  the 
towering  Penmaenmawr  at  the  other  ;  the  vast  promontory  of  Llandudno, 
part  of  the  Isle  of  Anglesea,  with  the  great  Bay  of  Llandulas,  forming  a 
vast  crescent ;  the  estuaries  of  the  Dee  and  Mersey,  and  to  the  n.,  the  Isle 
of  Man,  with  the  Cumberland  Alps. 

In  the  towmship  of  Tre-mostyn,  near  the  shore,  is  a  cliff  of  a  very  singular 
appearance,  looking  like  the  semi-vitrified  lava  of  a  volcano.  A  vein,  in 
which  was  lodged  some  pyritic  matter,  took  fire,  and  caused  the  phenome¬ 
non.  It  chiefly  raged  towards  the  front,  and  diminished  gradually  in  the 
internal  part  of  the  bed.  These  appearances  are  said  not  to  be  uncommon 
in  Derbyshire. 

On  the  shore  is  the  ancient  smelting-house  of  Llanerchymor.  The 
estuary  of  the  Dee  lies  at  a  short  distance  on  the  1.  The  hundred  of  Wiral 
is  seen  on  the  other  side.  This  view^  of  the  sea  terminates  at  one  end  with 
Chester  and  the  rock  Beeston  ;  on  the  other  with  the  little  islands  of  Hil- 
bree  or  Ilbre.  Upon  one  has  been  a  cell  of  Benedictines.  On  crossing  a 
little  rill  beneath  the  banks,  the  parish  of  tiolywell  is  entered.  On  the  r. 
Mr.  Pennant  ascended  to  the  site  of  the  abbey  and  castle  of  Basingwerk. 

X  3 


SIO 


HOLYWELL. 


Mr.  PennanL  in  commencing  from  his  own  bouse  his  journey  to  Snow¬ 
don,  notices  that  he  passed  Whiteford,  and  ascended  Mynyeldy-  Gareg,  or 
the  Rock,  a  high  and  conspicuous  part  of  the  country.  The  Romans 
took  advantage  of  it,  and  placed  upon  its  summit  a  Pharos,  to  conduct  the 
navigators  to  and  from  Deva,  along  the  difficult  channel  of  the  Silei  Portus. 
The  building  is  still  remaining,  and  tolerably  entire  ;  its  form  circular  ; 
the  height  considerable  ;  the  inner  diameter  12-^  feet ;  the  thickness  of  the 
walls  4  ft.  4  in.  Over  each  door  is  a  square  funnel,  like  a  chimney, 
which  opens  on  the  outside,  about  half-way  up  the  building.  About  4 
ft.  from  the  ground,  are  three  circular  holes,  lined  with  mortar,  as  is  fre¬ 
quent  ill  Roman  buildings,  and  penetrate  the  whole  wall,  for  purposes 
unknown.  Along  the  higher  part  are  eight  square  openings,  facing  the 
channel,  in  each  of  which  were  placed  lights.  To  the  building  there  is 
evidently  a  broad  and  raised  road,  pointing  from  the  e.  ;  and  near  its  upper 
end  are  the  marks  of  a  trench. 

Descend  and  leave  on  the  1.  Maen  Achwyfan,  before  mentioned. 

Gloly  an  enclosed  mountain,  a  little  farther  on,  has  among  the  bushes 
various  circular  foundations  of  stone  unmortared  buildings.  A  mile  hence, 
Newmarket,  a  small  town,  almost  the  entire  creation  of  its  then  owner, 
John  Wynne,  Esq.  of  Gop.  Hence  Mr.  Pennant  ascended  the  hill  called 
Copa  rleni,  on  the  summit  of  which  is  a  most  enormous  carnedd,  or  tumu¬ 
lus,  composed  of  limestone.  Returned  along  the  ridge  of  the  hill,  marked 
with  verdant  tumuli  (the  tombs  of  ancient  heroes).  See  beneath  the  little 
church  of  Gwaen-yskor,  remarkable  for  its  ancient  register.  Descend  to 
the  church  and  village  of  Llanasa,  which  contains  some  finely  stained  glass 
from  Basingwerk  Abbey,  and  in  the  cemetery  some  curious  tombstones. 
In  approaching  from  the  high  lands  towards  the  shore,  observe  the  ruins  of 
a  small  chapel,  at  the  little  hamlet  of  Gwespyr,  near  Trelacre,  one  of  the 
seats  of  Sir  Pyers  Mostyn,  Bart.  Pass  over  Gronant  Moor,  formerly  much 
more  extensive  than  at  present.  On  approaching  Prestattyn,  about  2  m. 
from  Trelacre,  the  flat  becomes  extremely  fertile  in  corn.  A  little  below 
the  mill,  in  a  meadow,  is  the  site  of  the  Castle;  nothing  more  than  the 
foundations  remain.  Near  Prestattyn  grow,  100  yards  n.  wn  of  Rhydd 
Marsh,  Hippurus  vulgaris  ;  in  a  marsh  upon  the  sea-coast,  a  mile  w., 
Schoenus  compressus  ;  upon  part  of  Salt  marsh,  1  m.  w.,  Poa  maritima  ; 
upon  Rhyd  marsh,  Rumex  maritimus,  Alisma  ranunculoides,  Scirpus 
maritimus,  and  Limosella  aquatica.  The  road  hence  to  Dyserth  is  ex¬ 
tremely  pleasant. 

On  the  road  to  Rhyddlan  from  Holywell,  the  following  route  is  gene¬ 
rally  pursued  :  —  Pass  near  a  large  pool,  Plds  Captain,  so  called  from 
Captain  Morgan,  who  resided  there  during  the  agitated  time  of  Charles  I.  ; 
on  taking  an  active  part,  he  was  killed,  and  buried  by  this  sheet  of  W'^ater.  It 
is  not  many  years  since  a  man  disturbed  the  bones  of  this  unfortunate 
soldier,  in  hopes  of  finding  treasure.  He  discovered  two  nightcaps  upon 
the  head  of  the  interred.  One  of  silk  is  preserved  by  the  family  ;  the 
other  of  cotton  was  kept  at  the  Cross  Keys  Inn,  Newmarket.  Trerahhot, 
-4  m.:  Pentre  Ffwdan,  ^m.;  Newmarket,  1  m.  This  is  but  a  small  vil¬ 
lage,  and  has  sunk  into  obscurity  since  the  races  and  hunts  have  been  dis¬ 
continued.  It  has  still,  however,  a  market  held  on  Saturday  ;  and  fairs  on 
the  last  Saturday  in  April,  the  third  Saturday  in  July,  the  fourth  Saturday 
in  October,  and  the  second  Saturday  in  December.  The  Petty  Sessions  for 
the  hundred  of  Prestattyn  are  held  here.  A  Charity  School  was  here 
endowed  with  8/.  a-year,  and  opened  in  1 726  by  Dr.  D.  Williams  of  Wrexham. 


HOLYWELL. 


311 


The  great  slaughter  of  the  Ordovices,  or  ancient  inhabitants  of  Powis- 
land  and  Gwynedd  (now  North  Wales)_,  or  by  Julius  Agricola,  the  Roman 
general,  under  the  emperor  Domitian_,  is  said  to  have  happened  here. 
The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy.  The  Church  is  a  small  modern  struc¬ 
ture  ;  near  the  s.  entrance  is  a  beautiful  cross  elegantly  sculptured  in 
high  relief.  Between  this  place  and  Caerwys,  a  greater  number  of  tumuli 
occurs  than  in  any  other  equal  space  in  North  Wales:  a  sad  indication  of 
those  streams  of  blood  and  that  untold  misery  which  history  has  not  un¬ 
veiled  to  the  painful  scrutiny  of  happier  times.  The  church  contains 
nothing  worthy  of  notice  except  a  carved  stone  with  an  undeciphered  in¬ 
scription.  1  m.  w.  of  this  village  is  Fynnon-Asaf,  whence  water  rises 
with  such  force  as  to  turn  a  mill  distant  60  yards.  The  polygonal  stone 
which  marks  the  spot  shows  that  it  was  once  celebrated.  Dyserth,  2  m. 

The  church,  dedicated  to  St.  Fraid,  Bride  or  Bridget,  of  this  village, 
stands  in  a  romantic  bottom,  overshaded  with  several  large  yews.  There 
are  some  good  paintings  in  the  .e.  window,  and  on  the  s.  window  of  the 
chancel  is  inscribed,  Sir  John  Conway,  l636,”  and  on  the  porch,  ‘^‘l603. 
A.  Reg.  45.^^  The  living  is  a  discharged  rectory  :  patron,  Bishop  of  St. 
Asaph.  The  cemetery  contains  some  singular  tombstones ;  two  in  parti¬ 
cular  have  a  semicircular  top.  Also  an  ancient  cross,  adorned  with  wreaths, 
and  another  with  some  traces  of  a  human  figure,  now  forming  a  stile. 
Upon  the  altar-tomb  is  a  rude  cross  and  sword.  The  fortification  called 
Craeg  Castle,  or  Castell-y -Craig,  stands  on  the  summit  of  a  high  limestone 
rock,  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  from  the  village.  Its  remains  are 
trifling,  consisting  of  a  few  shattered  fragments.  There  is  hence  a  fine 
prospect  of  part  of  the  vale  of  Clwyd.  The  time  of  the  foundation  of  this 
fortress  is  unknown.  It  was  fortified  by  Henry  III.,  about  1241,  and 
appears  from  Dugdale  to  have  been  the  property  of  the  earls  of  Chester ; 
for  he  remarks,  that  when  that  family  became  extinct,  Dyserth  and  Di- 
ganwy  castles  were  in  the  13th  of  Henry  III.  annexed  to  the  crown.  About 
20  years  afterwards  they  were  both  destroyed  by  Llywelyn  ap  GryfFydd, 
In  a  wood  near  Bryn-y-Pobty  is  an  entire  cromlech  of  great  dimensions. 

Mr.  Bingley  found  the  following  plants  upon  the  Castle  hill  growing 
plentifully  :  —  Veronica  spicata,  Cistus  iparifolius,  Cistus  helianthemum, 
Thalictrum  minus.  Geranium  sanguineum,  Conyza  squarrosa,  Carduus 
marianus,  Anthyllis  vulneraria,  and  Saxifraga  stellaris,  among  rocks,  about 
Caunant  mawr. 

In  a  field  a  little  to  the  s.  is  a  ruin  called  Siam -her voen,  the  White 
Hall,”  said  to  have  been  the  house  of  Sir  Robert  Pounderling ,  a  valiant 
knight,  and  once  the  constable  of  the  castle.  Of  this  character  Leland 
relates  the  following  story  :  —  Being  famed  for  his  valour,  he  was  chal¬ 
lenged  at  a  tournament,  by  a  gentleman  of  Wales,  who  in  the  combat  struck 
out  one  of  his  eyes.  Being  afterwards  in  the  English  court,  he  was  re¬ 
quested  to  challenge  him  in  return,  but  he  wisely  showed  that  he  had  pru¬ 
dence  as  well  as  valour,  for  he  declined  a  second  combat,  saying  that  he 
did  not  intend  the  Welshman  to  knock  out  his  other  eye.”  {Itin.  vi.  21,) 
Moel  Hiraddug,  a  British  post,  is  stationed  upon  a  very  steep  and  rocky 
hill  to  the  s.,  with  an  immense  agger  or  accumulation  of  loose  stones  upon 
the  accessible  part. 

At  a  place  called  Marion,  are  long  deep  trenches,  out  of  which  minerals 
have  been  dug.  On  the  summit  of  the  hill  is  a  great  bed  of  beautiful  red 
spar. 

Cwm  Llan  is  embosomed  with  hills,  and  fronts  the  vale  of  Clwyd.  From 

X  4 


312 


KIDWELLY. 


the  summit  of  one  of  those  whic^  surround  the  village  issues  a  water^  form¬ 
ing  a  beautiful  cascade^  which  rises  from  a  small  well,  called  Fynnon-Asaf. 
The  height  of  this  waterfall  is  seventeen  yards,  concealed  between  two 
arches  of  the  rock,  behind  which  it  has  worn  a  passage. 

Mr.  Pugh  strongly  recommends  to  artists  the  road  to  Melidon,  from 
Dyserth.  Descending  into  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  an  extensive  prospect  opens. 

St.  Asaph  appears  in  the  foreground  ;  Rhyddlan  Castle  on  the  r.  ; 
Denbigh  more  remotely  on  the  1.  Several  seats  are  beautifully  scattered 
along  the  sides  of  this  vale;  among  which,  those  of  the  Lords  Bagot  and 
Kirkwall  are  the  most  conspicuous.  On  the  1.  lie  Llanerch  Park,  Rev.  G. 
Allanson,  and  Wyfair,  Rev.  J.  C.  Potter. 

Pass  through  the  wood  at  Bodryddan,  an  antiquated  house,  the  residence 
of  the  very  Rev.  C.  Scott  Luxmore,  dean  and  chancellor  of  St.  Asaph. 

Near  St.  Asaph  cross  the  Clwyd  River,  which  runs  from  Ruthin  on  the 
L,  and  on  the  r.  to  the  sea. 

The  road  to  Flint  is  very  uninteresting,  compared  with  the  prevailing 
features  of  picturesque  scenery  with  which  the  Principality  abounds.  On 
the  1.,  however,  soon  after  quitting  Holywell,  is  Bagillt  Hall,  formerly  a 
seat  of  Paul  Panton,  Esq.,  standing  upon  a  slope  amidst  hanging  woods. 
The  house  came  to  the  Pantons,  by  a  progenitor  of  the  present  possessor 
marrying  the  heiress  of  Edward  Griffiths,  Esq. 


To  llhuddlan,  11  miles.  Pugh. 

Basing  , verk  Abbey,  1  mile.  Bingley  ;  Wynd- 
ham  ;  Skrine. 

St.  Asaph,  10  miles.  Bingley  ;  Pennant. 
Denbigh,  14  miles  Aikin  ;  Skrine. 

Flint,  by  Downing,  10  miles.  Warner. 

Flint,  5  miles.  Wyndhamj  Pennant. 


To  Mold,  10  miles. 

Caerwys,  5  miles. 

Mr.  Pennant  commenced  his  journey  to  Snow¬ 
don  from  Downing  to  Rliyddlan. 

His  third  excursion  was  from  his  own  fire-side 
to  Llangynog,  in  Montgomeryshire,  at 
which  place  he  began  his  Itinerary. 


KIDWELLY. 

From  Llanelly,  8  miles.  Evans  ,  Skrine.  I  From  Carmarthen,  9^  miles.  Malkin. 

Llanstephan,  4^  miles.  Malkin.  |  Swansea,  23  miles. 

KIDWELLY,  Cathweli,  of  Cydweli  in  Carmarthenshire,  is  an  incor¬ 
porated  town,  &c.  Cathweli  is  by  some  rendered  Catti  lectus,  and  Leland 
says  Cadog  or  Cattus  used  here  to  make  his  bed  in  an  oak.”  Cydweli  is 
derived  from  cyd  a  junction,  and  wyl  a  flow.  Kidwelly  is  (hvided  into  the 
Old  and  New  Towns,  which  are  separated  by  a  bridge  over  the  Gwendraeth. 
The  Old  Town,  standing  between  two  rivers,  Gwandraeth  Vawr  and  Vach,  is 
of  great  antiquity  but  consists  chiefly  of  hovels.  It  had  anciently  strong 
walls,  and  three  gates,  now  dilapidated.  The  New  Town  contains  few 
respectable  houses,  the  majority  being  thatched  cottages  of  very  inferior 
appearance.  The  Church  is  an  ancient  cruciform  structure,  having  a 
conspicuous  spire.  It  contains  the  sepulchral  effigy  of  a  priest,  with  an 
inscription  now  illegible.  Over  the  s.  entrance  into  the  church  is  a  small 
figure  of  the  Virgin.  It  was  probably  the  chapel  of  Cadog,  or,  as  it  is  called, 
Llangadog,  to  which  the  chapel  of  Teiio  might  have  been  subordinate.  Kid¬ 
welly  is  a  rural  deanery  in  the  diocese  of  St.  David’s.  The  living  is  a 
discharged  vicarage  in  the  patronage  of  the  crown.  In  the  l6th  century 
there  was  a  priory  of  Black  Monks  near  the  church.  The  Castle  forms 
a  noble  object,  adjoining  the  ruins  of  Old  Kidwelly  upon  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Gwendraeth  Vach.  Leland  says,  the  old  town  is  prettily 
waullid,  and  hath  hard  by  the  waul  a  castel ;  the  old  town  is  near  al 


KIDWELLY. 


313 


desolated^  but  the  castel  is  meately  well  kept  up.”  This  description 
applies  very  well  to  the  present  appearance  of  the  place  ;  for  though 
the  castle  be  uninhabited_,  it  continues  tolerably  entire.  The  gateway 
is  very  fine,  and  the  whole  a  magnificent  remain.  This  fortress  is  said 
to  have  been  built  soon  after  the  Conquest  by  William  de  Londres_, 
a  Norman  adventurer,  a.  d.  1094,  who  conquered  Glamorganshire.  After 
undergoing  the  usual  vicissitudes  of  sieges,  partial  demolition,  and  different 
masters,  became  vested  to  the  Crown  of  England,  and  was  the  property  of 
the  Vaughans  of  Golden  Grove  ;  afterwards  that  of  his  heir.  Lord  Cawdor, 
whose  son  and  successor,  Earl  Cawdor,  is  the  present  proprietor.  Some  of 
the  principal  towers  still  retain  their  arched  roofs  of  stone.  The  prospects 
from  the  battlements  of  the  castle  are  uncommonly  fine.  At  the  foot  of  the 
castle  flows  Gwendraeth  Vach.  To  the  s.  lies  the  sea.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river  appears  the  town  of  Kidwelly.  A  handsome  stone 
bridge  crosses  the  river.  As  a  port,  this  place  is  a  very  indifferent  one, 
owing  to  the  harbour  being  choked  with  sands,  but  Lord  Cawdor  made 
considerable  improvements.  According  to  Dugdale,  there  was  formerly 
here  a  priory  of  Benedictine  Monks,  founded  by  Roger  bishop  of  Salisbury, 
about  1130.  Inn,  the  Pelican.  The  iron-works  here  have  been  taken 
by  Mr.  Hugh  H.  Daiman,  of  the  Carmarthen  pin-works.  This  establish¬ 
ment  will  be  called  for  the  future  The  Gwendraeth  Iron  and  Tin-plate 
Works.” 

From  Kidwelly,  Mr.  Evans  made  an  Excursion  up  the  vales  of  Gwen¬ 
draeth  Vawr  and  Vach.  These  rivers  abound  with  salmon,  sewin,  trout, 
eels,  &:c.,  and  have  their  sources  in  the  common  of  Eskenning.  The  land 
is  of  various  quality,  but  in  the  vale  of  Gwendraeth  Vach,  for  the  most 
part  it  consists  of  rab,  sand,  and  loam,  studded  with  fertile  farms  ;  while 
the  soil  of  Gwendraeth  Vawr,  especially  on  the  e.  side,  is  principally  a 
yellow  ochreous  clay,  lying  over  coal  and  iron.  The  latter  river  rises  in  a 
hill  called  Mynnydd  Vawr  ;  a  small  pool  in  a  moor  beneath  is  called  Llyn 
Tegwyn.  The  hill  in  which  the  former  rises  is  Mynnydd  Fychan,  where 
there  is  an  aperture  into  which  persons  formerly  walked.  Near  this  are 
the  traces  of  Lie'  Carey,  an  isolated  rock  ;  and  not  far  from  it  another, 
called  Craig-y~Dinas  :  between  the  two,  it  is  said,  there  was  once  a  town. 
3  m.  N.,  upon  another  isolated  and  inaccessible  rock,  stand  the  rugged  ruins 
of  Careg  Cennin  Castle,  at  the  foot  of  which  flows  the  stream  whence  the 
fortress  derives  its  name.  A  well  which  supplied  the  garrison  with  water 
is  said,  by  Giraldus,  to  ebb  and  flow  with  the  sea.  Descending  the  river 
about  3  m.,  it  is  joined  by  a  powerful  stream  called  Tresgirth.  At  the 
head  of  this,  distant  1  m.,  is  a  cave  frequented  by  the  people  during  Whit¬ 
suntide.  In  this  part  of  the  country  the  farms  are  in  a  slovenly  condition. 
Exceptions,  however,  must  be  made  ;  among  these  have  been  mentioned  those 
of  Mr.  Bevan  of  Pengay,  and  Mr.  Davis  of  Lactony.  The  latter  gentle¬ 
man  cultivated  ten  acres  of  French  furze,  which  he  propagated  by  seed  ; 
with  these  whins,  which  he  cut  every  year,  he  kept  his  whole  team,  and 
riding-horses  over  the  winter ;  he  gave  it  mixed  v^^ith  hay  to  his  horned 
cattle.  The  produce  per  acre  was  from  12  to  15  tons  weight.  It  is 
bruised  with  a  short  pole  armed  at  the  lower  end  with  cross  irons,  cutting 
and  bruising  at  the  same  time.  A  man  will  prepare  36  bushels  per 
day,  at  the  price  of  a  halfpenny  each.  A  more  expeditious  mode  is  by  a 
mill  formed  of  two  cylinders.  This  furze,  in  some  parts  of  the  country, 
grows  to  10  or  12  ft.  high,  and  its  stems  are  often  cut  for  fuel.  It  is  sub¬ 
stituted  in  some  places  for  fences  instead  of  hawthorn.  The  thorns  of  the 
dwarf  furze  are  triangular  and  smooth,  except  at  the  base,  appearing  to 


KNIGHTON. 


314} 


proceed  from  the  bark  ;  the  pods  small  and  short,  without  down.  The 
French  furze  has  thorns  from  a  real  extension  of  the  stem,  quite  straight, 
woolly,  twice  or  thrice  as  long  as  the  leaves  ;  pods  thick  and  short,  covered 
with  a  hoary  whitish  down.  The  leaves  of  the  latter  are  awl-shaped,  those 
of  the  former  are  fringed.  The  latter  flowers  in  May,  the  former  in  autumn 
with  the  heath.  In  the  parish  of  Llanclyfaelog,  near  Gelli,  Mr.  Evans 
found  Hypericum  androssemum.  Salvia  verbenaca,  Asplenium  septentrionale; 
and  on  an  eminence  near,  Solidago  virgaurea.  On  the  road-side  towards 
Carmarthen  occur  Lythrum  salicaria,  L.  hysopifolia,  and  Humulus  lupu- 
lus.  Passing  the  small  village  of  St.  Ishmael  a  ferry  is  crossed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Towy  to  Llanstephan  Castle.  On  the  shore  was  found 
Eryngium  maritimum,  Glaux  maritima,  and  Arenaria  rubra.  The  Kid¬ 
welly  Canal  became  the  private  property  of  the  two  co-heiresses  of  Mr. 
Keymer,  who  cut  this  communication  at  his  private  expense,  to  his  coal¬ 
mines  and  limestone  works  in  his  own  estate.  It  was  afterwards  extended 
2  m.  up  the  vale  of  Gwendraeth,  and  a  branch  communicates  with  Penbree 
harbour. 

The  road  to  Carmarthen  lies  on  a  steep  woody  bank,  above  the  romantic 
course  of  Kidwelly  river  ;  but  it  soon  deviates  to  the  superior  attractions 
of  the  Teifi.  Following  its  expansive  water  and  verdant  accompaniments 
over  a  long  antique  bridge,  arrive  at  Carmarthen.  This  river  is  famed  for 
fine  salmon. 

The  road  to  Llanelly  lies  over  the  marshy  flat  through  which  the 
canal  is  carried  to  the  coal- works.  After  crossing  Spudder  Bridge,  mount 
Penbree  Hill,  whence  the  surrounding  scenery  is  viewed  to  the  greatest 
advantage.  Carmarthen  Bay,  and  Bristol  Channel,  extending  to  the  oppo¬ 
site  shores  of  Devonshire,  compose  the  marine  prospect ;  the  interior  is 
characterised  by  considerable  inequalities.  This  hill  is  the  highest  in  the  s. 
of  Carmarthenshire. 


To  Carmarthen,  miles.  Bingley. 
Llanelly,  8  miles.  Malkin. 


To  Llaiiitephan  Castle,  U  miles.  Evans  ;  Skrine. 


KNIGHTON. 

From  Bishop’s  Castle,  13  miles.  Wyndham.  I  From  Presteign,  6  miles. 

Ludlow,  16  miles.  | 

KNIGHTON,  or  Tref-y-clawd,  the  Town  upon  the  Dike,”  in  the 
hundred  of  Knighton,  is  pleasingly  situated  on  the  eastern  border  of  Radnor¬ 
shire,  upon  a  steep  bank  of  the  Teme,  and  so  called  from  Offd’s  Dike,  which 
runs  above  the  town.  This  rampart  enters  the  parish  on  the  n.  from  the 
county  of  Salop  ;  and  after  running  for  2  m.  in  almost  a  straight  line  to 
the  s.,  it  is  plainly  to  be  traced  through  the  parishes  of  Norton,  Whitton, 
Discoed,  and  old  Radnor,  in  this  county,  into  that  of  Hereford.  Knighton 
is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  deep  vale,  descending  in  several  streets, 
which  open  to  various  picturesque  objects  in  the  adjacent  country.  This 
romantic  vale  is  surrounded  by  high  hills  and  sheltered  on  the  n.  by  Kinsley 
AFood,  well  clothed  with  verdure.  The  population,  in  1831,  amounted  to 
1076  inhabitants.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  not  in  charge 
of  the  certified  value  of  10/.,  and  augmented  liberally  from  Queen  Anne’s 
bounty  ;  patron  the  Warden  of  the  hospital  at  Clun.  The  Chapel  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Edward,  and  is  subordinate  to  Stow  (St.  Michael),  which 
lies  2  m.  n.  e.  in  the  county  of  Salop.  Market,  Thursday.  It  is  a  modern 
structure,  erected  in  the  year  1732.  The  Parsonage  is  delightfully 


KNIGHTON. 


315 


situated  near  the  sacred  edifice,  on  the  banks  of  the  Teme,  and  com¬ 
mands  some  charming  prospects.  Fairs y  Saturday  before  second  Sunday 
in  March,  17th  May,  2d  of  October,  and  9th  of  November.  Knighton  is 
one  of  the  contributary  boroughs  to  New  Radnor,  and  has  the  privilege  of 
making  burgesses,  who  receive  an  annual  rent  among  them  from  the  tolls 
of  the  market.  It  is  governed  by  a  bailiff,  appointed  at  the  court-leet, 
which  is  held  under  a  lease  from  the  crown,  by  the  Earl  of  Oxford,  who 
is  steward  of  the  cantref  of  Maelienydd.  Here  is  a  small  Free  School 
endowed  by  Mrs.  Barnsley  with  1/.  per  annum.  About  two  thirds  of 
the  parish  are  under  cultivation,  the  remainder  being  hills.  The  site  of 
Brynau  Castle,  in  a  commanding  situation,  may  be  traced,  the  remains 
of  which  are  entirely  destroyed.  The  petty  sessions  for  the  hundred  of 
Knighton  are  held  here.  Here  also  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the 
ancient  and  highly  respected  family  of  Price. 

The  principal  Inn  is  the  Chandos  Arms. 

On  the  road  to  Clun,  at  the  hamlet  of  Bryn  Cambric,  rises  the  camp 
attributed  to  Caractacus,  called  Caer  Caradoc ;  and  on  the  adjoining 
eminence  Stow  Hill,  is  a  trigonometrical  station. 

To  Bishop’s  Castle  the  pedestrian  may  deviate  from  the  road  to  Clun, 
through  Penpwnton  and  Upper  Skiborry,  2  m.  Thence  to  Selley  Hall,  2  m., 
pass  an  ancient  Camp  on  the  r,  at  Llan-du,  1  m.  Pursue  the  line  of  Offa’s 
Dike  (here  corrupted  into  off  ditch”),  1-J- m.  to  Barfield,  where  is  the 
site  of  a  town,  said  to  have  been  destroyed  by  Owain  Glyndwr.  Here  are 
found  embedded  in  the  quarries  of  transition  or  Grauwacke  system,  nodules 
of  a  singular  formation,  supposed  to  be  the  foeces  of  sea  monsters.  Proceed 
in  the  same  line  by  the  Lower  Spoad  to  Little  Hall,  2  m.,  the  estate  of 
Roger  Bryan,  Esq.  ;  Bickton,  1^  m.  ;  Colstey  1^  m.  From  the  n.  of  this 
elevation  the  Burry  Ditches,  with  the  range  of  the  Long  Mynd,  produce  a 
fine  perspective. 

On  the  1.,  2  m.,  occur  Walcot  House,  Earl  Powis.  Coldbach,  3  m.  Thence 
to  Bishop’s  Castle,  1^  m. 

To  Newtown  the  best  road  for  carriages  is  by  way  of  Bishop’s  Castle. 
The  direct  mountainous  road  lies  through  Knucklas,  2^  m.,  Llanvair 
Waterdine,  1  ^  m.,  Llanfihangel-y-Bugaildy,  or  Beguildy,  3^  m.;  the  pedes¬ 
trian  enters  upon  a  common  at  Moat  House,  which  he  must  cross  in  a  n.w. 
direction,  attending  closely  to  the  direct  cart  track,  neither  turning  to  the 
right  nor  the  left,  though  invited  by  other  roads.  Pass  Llan-llwyd,  1  ^  m. 
Leave  Grey  Stones  on  the  r.  with  Castle  Bryn  Amlwg  on  the  1. ;  and 
advance  to  Kerry  Pole,  4  m.,  Newtown  3  m.  This  moor,  7  ^n.  across, 
is  generally  well  swarded,  affording  pasturage  not  only  for  abundance  of 
sheep,  but  for  numerous  ponies.  Continuing  to  follow  the  track  of  the 
carts  which  bring  wool  from  Newtown  to  Knighton  this  way,  in  many 
places  scarcely  discernible,  at  length  the  path  becomes  plainer,  falling  into 
a  more  frequented  road  ;  and  by  keeping  to  the  left,  the  small  village  of 
Kerry  is  attained  [see  Newtown],  where  may  be  found  comfortable  ac¬ 
commodation.  The  river  Teme  rises  at  the  foot  of  Fynnon-menyn,  not  far 
distant.  The  dreariness  of  the  common  on  quitting  it  is  amply  recompensed 
and  contrasted  by  the  sudden  appearance  of  a  fertile  vale,  and  well 
cultivated  country,  which  continues  to  Newtown. 

To  Radnor.  Norton,  4^  m.  (on  the  1.  to  Presteign,  3  m.)  Discoed, 
2]  m.  (1  m.  further  on  the  1.  is  a  road  to  Presteign,  3  m.)  Kinnerton 
Chapel,  3  m.  Radnor,  2  m. 

Fishing  Station. — Llanbister,  12  m.  on  the  Ithon.  Beautiful  scenery 
and  excellent  angling.  Pilleth,  4^  m.,  famous  for  trout  and  grayling. 


316 


LAMPETER. 


To  Radnor  (New)  12  miles.  Wyndham. 
Presteign,  6  miles. 

Bishop’s  Castle,  through  Clun,  13  miles. 


To  Newtown,  over  the  mountains,  16  miles. 
Clun,  7  miles. 

Ludlow,  16i  miles. 


LAMPETER 


From  Tregaron,  11  miles.  Malkin  ;  Barber.  From  Llandovery,  16  raile.s.  Skrine. 
Cardigan,  up  the  Teifi,  to  Kilgerran  iron-  Newcastle  Emlyn,  19  miles, 

works,  29  miles.  Wyndham. 


LAMPETER,  or  Llanbedr-Pont -Stephan,  is  a  corporate  and 
market  town  situated  in  the  beautiful  vale  of  the  Teifi,  in  Cardigan¬ 
shire.  It  was  anciently  called  Llanbedd  ;  it  is  in  the  hundred  of  Moeddyn. 
The  Bridge  over  the  Teifi,  built  by  a  person  named  Steven,  at  his  own 
expense,  is  ^  am.  distant  from  the  town.  The  Roman  road  from  Loven- 
tium  to  Maridunum,  or  Llanio,  to  Carmarthen,  is  very  visible  on  the  w. 
side  of  the  river,  to  which  it  runs  nearly  parallel  from  Llanio.  Lampeter 
consists  but  of  few  houses,  and  one  tolerable  inn.  It  appears  to  have  been 
a  much  larger  place  formerly  than  at  present.  Its  population  in  1801, 
amounted  to  669  inhabitants;  in  1 831,  it  had  augmented  to  1197*  A 
piece  of  ground  to  the  s.w  of  the  town  is  called  Mynwent  Twmas,  or  St. 
Thomas’s  Churchyard,  in  which  pieces  of  leaden  coffins  have  been  dug  up  ; 
Capel  Fynnon  Fair  is  also  become  extinct.  Of  the  ancient  Castle  nothing 
remains  except  the  moated  verdant  mound  of  its  keep,  and  the  site  of  a 
quadrangular  court.  It  was  demolished  in  the  year  11375  by  Owain 
Gwynedd,  eldest  son  of  Gryffydd  ap  Conan.  The  Church  is  very  ancient, 
pleasantly  situated  upon  rising  ground,  n.  of  the  town,  and  shaded  with  vener¬ 
able  yew.  It  is  dedicated  to  St.  Peter  the  apostle,  or  to  the  primitive  British 
saint  Pedr,  brother  of  Tyssul,  and  consists  of  a  nave,  a  s.  aisle,  and  chancel  : 
the  two  former  are  separated  by  pointed  arches  ;  the  latter  is  partitioned  by 
an  ornamented  screen.  Near  the  altar  is  an  arched  niche  for  holy  water. 
The  font  consists  of  a  square  stone  with  a  circular  excavation  for  immersion, 
ornamented  with  grotesque  figures.  This  edifice  contains  some  monuments 
of  the  Millfield  family  ;  there  are  some  remains  of  a  rood-loft.  Millfield 
was  a  very  ancient  seat  of  the  Lloyds,  baronets.  The  principal  architectural 
ornament  is  the  College  of  St.  Davifs,  founded  by  George  IV.,  at  the 
suggestion  of  Dr.  Burgess.  There  are  about  45  students  whose  necessary 
expenses  do  not  exceed  from  501.  to  54/.  per  annum.  The  literature  of 
Wales  has  recently  sustained  a  severe  loss  in  the  sudden  decease  of  the 
Rev.  Rice  Rees,  Professor  of  W elsh  in  this  institution.  He  is  described 
as  an  accomplished  scholar,  a  most  amiable  worthy  man,  and  an  ornament 
and  honour  to  the  Church  of  England.  He  was  the  son  of  "William 
Jenkins  Rees,  the  present  rector  of  Cascob,  Radnorshire,  prebendary  of 
Brecknock,  and  honorary  member  of  the  Royal  Cambrian  Institution  ; 
in  the  formation  and  support  of  which,  and  other  societies  connected  there¬ 
with  in  the  Principality,  the  latter  has  been  indefatigable.  His  able  Treatise 
on  the  Lordships  Marchers  gained  a  medal  from  the  Cymmrodorion  Society. 
In  a  delightful  situation  on  the  side  of  a  sloping  hill,  to  the  w.  of  the  church, 
once  stood  the  mansion  called  Arglwyddi  Lampeter.  Tradition  points  out  the 
remains  of  a  causeway,  which  led  by  a  stone  bridge  over  the  river  Croyw~ddwr, 
in  a  direct  line  from  the  mansion-house,  to  the  w.  door  of  the  church.  On 
the  N.  side  of  the  church  is  a  moated  tumulus.  Besides  the  two  churches 
already  mentioned,  there  was  formerly  a  Priory,  which  stood  upon  a  spot  once 


LAMPETER. 


317 


occupied  by  a  dwelling-house.  Adjoining  the  glebe-land^  and  to  the  n.  of 
the  church_,  is  a  farm  called  Hen-veddau,  which  signifies  old  graves.” 
Upon  a  hill  called  AUt-goch,  appear  the  remains  of  a  Druidical  circle,  a 
part  of  which  is  still  in  a  thicket  of  oak  ;  the  stones,  though  large,  are  none 
of  them  upright.  A  farm  in  this  parish  is  called  Castell  Byged^  from  an 
old  entrenchment  just  above  the  house.  Some  have  conjectured  that  this 
is  a  Roman  work,  and  that  Byged  signifies  Pugetius  ;  others  think  it  may 
be  the  name  of  a  Norman  general.  Hugh  Byged  was  Earl  of  Norfolk  dur¬ 
ing  the  reign  of  Stephen.  There  is  a  large  intrenchment  on  AUt-goch,  one 
also  upon  Olwen  Hill,  and  another  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  on  the 
river  Dulas  ;  in  this  was  found  a  hand  mill-stone.  The  Teifi  is  not  navi¬ 
gable  at  Lampeter.  Mr.  Malkin  says,  that  vessels  have  never  come  much 
further  than  Pont  Llechryd.  The  Black  Lion  is  a  posting-house.  The 
market  is  on  Saturday.  Fairs  are  held  on  the  11th  of  January;  Wednes¬ 
day  in  Whitsun- week,  10  July;  first  Saturday  in  Aug.  (O.  S.  2?  Aug.); 
first  Saturday  in  Sept.  (O.  S.  26  Sept.);  19  Oct.;  first  Saturday  in  Nov.  O.S. 
The  town  is  corporate,  governed  by  a  portreeve,  and  a  contributary  with 
Cardigan  in  returning  a  member  to  parliament.  The  sessions  are  held  here 
annually  on  the  second  Wednesday  in  October.  About  ^  a  m.  from  the  town 
is  a  bridge  over  the  Teifi,  supposed  to  have  been  erected  by  Stephen  ;  a 
field  near  the  river  is  still  called  the  king’s  meadow,  where  he  probably  en¬ 
camped.  In  an  enclosure  adjoining  was  discovered  a  subterraneous  room, 
with  several  curious  stone  steps ;  these  were  unhappily  rooted  up  for  the  sake 
of  the  stones,  by  the  proprietor  of  the  land. 

On  quitting  Lampeter  towards  Pontyjien  on  the  way  to  Newcastle 
Emlyn,  there  is,  close  to  the  town,  a  large  and  ancient  seat  of  Sir  Herbert 
Lloyd,  having  4  towers  crowned  with  domes,  in  a  fine  enclosure.  To  the  1. 
beyond  is  Llanwnnen,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Grawnell,  which  joins 
the  Teifi  at  a  little  distance.  Further  on  the  1.  is  Llanvaughan,  a  family 
seat  of  John  Thomas,  Esq.  About  Llanwenog  the  country  begins  to  im¬ 
prove,  and  fences  flourish.  From  Rhydowain  forwards,  the  agricultural  as 
well  as  picturesque  appearance  of  the  district  continues  sensibly  to  improve. 
By  turning  down  a  by-road  to  the  1.  in  the  village  of  Rhydowain,  the 
romantic  situation  of  Allt-y^'-Odin  may  be  seen,  and  by  keeping  along  the 
banks  of  the  Clettwr,  till  it  falls  into  the  Teifi,  and  then  taking  the  vale 
to  Llandyssul,  a  very  interesting  reach  will  be  commanded,  which  would 
be  lost  by  proceeding  along  the  turnpike.  Allt-yr-Odin  is  situated  on  the 
side  of  a  hill,  overlooking  the  beautiful  little  valley  through  which  flows  the 
Clettwr.  Not  far  distant  from  this  mansion  occurs  a  pleasing  waterfall, 
some  striking  masses  of  rock,  and  the  foundations  of  a  very  ancient  castle 
upon  an  eminence.  Another,  similarly  situated,  occurs  in  the  Vale  of  Teifi, 
close  by.  From  the  confluence  of  the  Clettwr  with  the  Teifi  towards  the 
sea,  the  banks  present  a  succession  of  pictures,  rarely  surpassed  in  beauty. 
The  village  of  Llandyssul,  though  poor,  is  exquisitely  situated.  This  is  a 
very  fine  angling  station  for  salmon,  sewin,  and  trout.  The  residence  of 
Charles  Bernard,  Esq.,  stands  on  the  Carmarthenshire  side  of  the  river,  in  a 
style  of  neatness  and  simplicity  well  suited  to  the  complexion  of  the  spot. 
This  domain  has  been  much  visited  by  those  who  are  curious  in  the  practice 
of  husbandry.  From  Llandyssul  to  Newcastle  Emlyn,  Mr.  Malkin  recom¬ 
mends  the  Carmarthenshire  side  of  the  river. 

The  remains  of  Strata  Florida,  or  Ystradflur,  a  Cisterican  monas¬ 
tery,  founded  in  ll64,  by  Rhys,  prince  of  S.  Wales,  lies  at  the  distance  of 
4  m.  N.  E.  of  Tregaron,  surrounded  by  mountains,  in  the  wildest  part  of  Car¬ 
diganshire.  One  Saxon  arch  alone  remains  of  this  once  revered  sanctuary. 


318 


LAMPETER. 


On  the  way  is  Llanio-isav,  an  ancient  station_,  the  supposed  Loventium  of 
the  Romans,  situated  upon  the  n.  w.  banks  of  the  Teifi.  The  fields  in 
this  place  continually  yield  to  the  plough,  specimens  of  Roman  pottery, 
culinary  articles,  coins,  &c. ;  one  is  called  by  the  natives  Caer  Castell, 

the  Field  of  the  Castle  :  ”  in  this  the  foundation  of  a  Roman  building  was 
discovered  150  ft.  in  length,  and  72  ft.  in  breadth.  Several  stones  having 
Latin  inscriptions  may  be  seen  in  the  walls  of  cottages  ;  one  intimates  that 
a  cohort  of  the  second  legion  of  Augustus  was  stationed  here,  and  built  a  part 
of  the  walls.  This  stood  on  the  Via  Occidentalis,  or  the  great  w.  road  from 
Maridunum,  or  Carmarthen,  to  Penallt,  near  Machynlleth.  This  road  is 
a  Sarn  Helen.  (^Meyrick’s  Cardiganshire.  See  also  page  255  of  the  present 
volume.)  There  is  a  sarn  leading  from  Llanio,  (on  the  way  from  Lam¬ 
peter  to  Tregaron)  towards  Llandovery,  in  its  way  to  Brecon  and  Gloucester. 
It  may  be  traced  running  in  an  e.  direction  to  Llanfair  mountain,  which  it 
leaves  to  the  1.  and  then  takes  a  s.  w.  track  to  the  church  of  Llan-y-crwes, 
in  Carmarthenshire.  Upon  this  eminence  is  one  of  those  tumuli  generally 
placed  by  the  Romans  in  such  situations  to  mark  the  course  of  their  roads. 
This  may  afterwards  be  distinguished  in  two  places  near  the  little  river 
Twrch,  in  the  valley  ;  it  then  leads  through  Cairo,  where  are  some  old  mines. 
Hence  it  goes  to  Llanfair-ar-y-Bryn,  near  Llandovery,  and  then  to  Y  Gaer, 
near  Breton,  and  so  on  to  Gloucester.  Several  roads  of  communication  are 
obvious.  Such  occur  in  the  parishes  of  Llanfihangel.  Gen-au’r-Glyn, 
leading  from  one  mine  to  another.  One  runs  from  a  mountain  called  Pen- 
Sarn-du  towards  the  w.  Wherever  the  word  Sarn  ”  occurs,  we  may 
find  traces  of  a  Roman  road.  Talsarn,  in  the  parish  of  Trefilan,  and  Pen- 
Sarn  near  Ystradmeyric,  Sarnau,  in  the  parish  of  Pombrin,  all  receive 
their  names  from  this  circumstance.  (Meyricky  xii.) 

The  E.  banks  of  the  Teifi  may  be  followed  with  advantage,  to  Llandewi 
Brefi  (where  are  some  curious  inscriptions),  and  then  crossing  the  river 
to  Llanio-isav,  and  Tregaron. 

Crossing  the  long  old  bridge  of  Lampeter  on  the  road  to  Llandeilo  the 
county  of  Carmarthen  is  entered  upon.  Nothing  can  be  imagined  more 
dreary  than  the  first  part  of  this  track,  which  lies  over  an  extensive  range 
of  hills.  Not  a  tree,  not  a  bush  is  to  be  seen.  From  this  region  of  sterility 
the  traveller,  after  some  time,  however,  catches  a  gleam  of  cultivation  in 
some  distant  hills,  bordering  on  Brecknockshire  ;  afterwards,  on  a  sudden 
turn  of  the  road,  he  will  look  down  with  pleasure  on  the  pleasing  little 
valley  of  Llansawel,  watered  by  a  crystalline  branch  of  the  Cothy.  This 
valley  is  immediately  succeeded  by  another  called  Edwin  s  Ford,  a  most 
delightful  spot,  where  high  encircling  hills  are  clothed  with  extensive 
plantations  to  their  very  summits.  In  the  bottom  is  a  large  old  manor- 
house  belonging  to  Colonel  Williams,  beautified  with  leaden  Mercuries, 
shepherdesses,  and  sportsmen.  This  place  remains  in  the  genuine  style  of 
King  William’s  reign,  and  with  all  its  absurdities  is  more  interesting  than 
if  patched  up  with  subsequent  improvements,  or  done  up  in  the  packing-case 
mode  which  afterwards  prevailed,  because  it  exhibits  a  specimen  of  times  that 
are  passed.  Long  avenues  of  trees  extend  from  the  house  ;  quitting  this  valley 
another  is  nresented,  pleasingly  decorated  with  wood,  and  the  ruin  of  Talley 
church.  A  cheerful  road,  lined  with  hedgerows  and  coppices  lead  through 
a  succession  of  swells  and  hollows,  adorned  with  numerous  plantations, 
particularly  those  of  Lord  Robert  Charles  Conway,  to  Llandeilo  vawr. 

To  Aberaeron  gain  the  adjoining  eminence,  whence  the  vale  of  the  Teifi 
is  displayed  to  great  advantage.  The  hollows  of  these  hills  are  dotted  with 
sheep  and  cattle,  on  the  slopes  of  which  heath,  fern,  and  turf,  with  patches 


LAMPETER. 


319 

of  cultivation,  continue  to  the  fourth  milestone,  where  a  grand  view  of  the 
rich  triangular  vale  of  Aeron,  is  suddenly  unveiled.  The  heights  round 
this  vale  are  covered  with  extensive  woods  from  the  level  of  the  plain  to 
more  than  half  way  up  the  sides.  This  agreeable  feature  is  wanting  in 
the  vales  of  the  Towy  and  Teifi.  Crossing  the  open  part  of  the  vale, 
watered  by  the  small  but  cheerful  Aeron,  enter  a  defile  about  i|m.  wide. 
This  valley  continues  in  a  winding  direction  all  the  way  to  Aberaeron,  ex¬ 
hibiting  a  succession  of  beauties.  On  the  way  notice  the  village  of  Ystrad. 
In  the  churchyard  stands  a  remarkably  ancient  and  beautiful  yew-tree. 
The  cottages  are  frequently  very  picturesque,  but  some  of  them  are 
absurdly  whitewashed.  Even  the  beautiful  blue  slate  does  not  escape  this 
custom.  About  2  m.  from  Aberaeron  is  the  elegant  modern  seat  called  Llan- 
wchaeron  ;  in  Smith’s  map  it  is  called  Cilianceron,  and  by  Cary  Cileaeron, 
The  valley  is  here  somewhat  expanded,  as  if  to  make  room  for  the  embel¬ 
lishments  which  are  happily  applied.  It  is  fronted  with  a  lawn,  and 
backed  by  a  hanging  wood.  The  road,  which  lies  on  the  1.  of  the  house, 
is  cut  through  a  rock.  At  the  bottom  of  a  precipice  on  the  r.  rolls  the 
crystalline  Aeron,  which  falls  into  the  bay  of  Cardigan. 

On  the  high  road  to  Tregaron,  at  1^  m.,  pass  the  village  of  Silian.  The 
Church  stands  in  a  romantic  situation.  In  the  cemetery  is  a  rudely  carved 
stone  monument  nearly  buried  in  the  ground.  At  the  third  mile  is  Bettws 
Bledrws,  The  living  is  a  rectory.  On  the  1.  is  Berry  Ormond.  Its 
situation  is  elevated,  commanding  an  extensive  view  over  the  surrounding 
mountains.  A  little  beyond  the  fourth  mile,  Llangyhi  lies  on  the  1.  The 
living  is  a  perpetual  curacy.  Upon  a  hill  above  the  river  Teifi  is  a  large 
intrenchment,  called  Castell-gored-tref.  About  the  eighth  mile  is  Llanio,  a 
farm-house,  formerly  the  property  of  the  late  proprietor  of  Havod,  the  ancient 
Loventium  of  the  Romans,  once  a  considerable  station  on  the  great  westernr 
road  called  Sarn  Helen,  between  Carmarthen  and  Penallt  near  Machynlleth. 
Several  coins  and  culinary  utensils  have  been  dug  up  here,  and  three  Ro¬ 
man  inscribed  stones  are  inserted  in  the  walls  of  two  cottages  on  this  spot. 
One  may  be  read  Caii  artis  manibus  primus,”  another,  Overioni,”  the 
third,  Cohors  secundse  Augusta  fecit  quinque  passus  -  -  -  Almost 

the  whole  of  this  place  is  covered  with  fragments  of  the  finest  brick.  On 
the  s.  E.  side  of  the  house  is  Caer  Castell,  the  Field  of  the  Castle,”  in 
which  are  still  the  remains  of  foundations.  Next  is  Pont  Llanio,  and  1  m. 
further  Tommen  Llanio,  a  moated  tumulus. 

The  road  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Teifi  is  certainly  preferable  as  con¬ 
taining  objects  more  interesting  than  on  the  highway.  Cellan,  at  the  dis¬ 
tance  of  3|  m.,  gives  name  to  a  parish  containing  an  uncommon  number  of 
British  antiquities.  The  large  quantity  of  wood  which  it  contains  contri¬ 
butes  to  give  this  district  a  very  picturesque  appearance.  The  mountains 
abound  with  sheep-walks  ;  hence  the  inhabitants  are  shepherds,  butchers, 
tanners,  curriers,  spinners,  weavers,  fullers,  &c.  This  parish,  in  the 
lordship  of  the  same  name,  was  purchased  by  the  Rev.  Lewis  Tumor,  of 
M^erfil  Brook,  from  the  late  Mr.  Johnes  of  Havod.  Upon  the  mountains 
in  this  parish  are  clearly  to  be  seen  vestiges  of  a  branch  of  the  Roman 
road  from  Llanio  to  Tref  Coch,  in  the  parish  of  Caes,  and  thence  to  Tref 
Coch,  in  Llanfair-ar-y-Bryn,  near  Llandovery.  Upon  a  circular  raised 
tumulus,  which  is  moated,  is  an  immense  stone,  eleven  yards  in  diameter, 
called  Llech  Cynon  ;  the  adjoining  river  Frwd  Cynon,  is  so  named  pro¬ 
bably  from  Cynon  the  reputed  founder  of  Tregynon.  Upon  the  mountain 
to  the  N.  of  the  river  Frwd,  are  two  beddau  or  graves  ;  and  on  an  eminence 
to  the  s.  are  two  more,  one  of  which  is  called  Bedd-y-forwyn,  or  the  Virgin’s 


320 


LAMPETER. 


Grave.  Mr,  Meyrick  says  he  caused  these  to  be  opened^  and  they  appeared 
alike.  Their  form  is  oblongs  consisting  of  four  stones  ;  in  the  centre  was  a 
little  tumulus  of  earth  and  stones.  After  clearing  away  the  rubhish_,  a 
stratum  of  gravel  appeared,  contiguous  to  a  thin  layer  of  sand,  under  which 
were  burnt  ashes  of  bones  and  wood  on  a  bed  of  clay.  The  depth  of  each 
was  about  3  ft.,  and  from  2|  to  4  ft,  long.  A  very  great  number  of  these 
carneddau  may  be  seen  upon  the  mountains  in  this  parish  ;  but  two  extremely 
large  ones,  upon  a  very  high  mountain  near  the  road  leading  from  Llanvair 
to  Llanycrwys,  are  most  conspicuous.  These,  and  another  called  Fair 
Carnau,  consist  of  heaps  of  large  stones,  without  doubt  the  graves  of  heroes 
who  fell  near  the  spot.  On  the  s.  edge  of  this  parish  is  another  ^‘"bedd,” 
similar  to  the  four  just  mentioned  ;  in  it  is  a  stone  called  Careg-taire-croes, 
placed  there  to  mark  the  boundary  pf  the  parish.  Two  immense  stones  are 
upon  the  mountain  s.  of  the  river  Erwd.  One  is  called  “  Byrfaen,”  which 
has  fallen  from  its  upright  position,  15  ft.  long,  and  4  in  width  and  thickness. 
The  other,  called  Hir-faen-gwyddog,  the  Conspicuous  Colossus,”  stands 
upright,  l6  ft.  above  the  ground,  on  three  sides  ft.,  and  on  the  other  2i^  ft. 
It  is  probable  that  these  immense  stones  were  erected  to  commemorate  a  vic¬ 
tory.  Near  the  road  leading  froniLlanfair  to  Llanycrwys  is  an  immense  stone 
called  Maen-y-prenvol.  It  appears  to  have  been  a  cromlech,  and  to  have 
fallen  from  its  original  situation.  It  is  l6ft.  in  length,  and  24  ft.  in  cir¬ 
cumference.  It  now  lies  upon  part  of  a  moated  tumulus  of  earth.  About 
two  yards  from  it  is  a  walled  erection,  and  some  scattered  stones  ;  the 
whole  probably  once  formed  a  cromlech.  Prenfol  may  be  a  corruption  of 
Bryn-foel,  i.  c.  the  Bare  Steep.”  Besides  these  curiosities,  there  are  three 
intrenchments  in  this  parish ;  one  upon  the  summit  of  a  hill  near  the  river 
Frwd,  called  Gaer  Morrice  or  Morys  ;  a  house  about  a  m.  from  it  is 
called  Finest  Cadwgan,  Cadwgan’s  Encampment.”  A  number  of  carned- 
dau  and  beddau  are  near  these  places.  Another  gaer  in  the  form  of  an 
oval  occurs  in  a  field  belonging  to  the  farm  of  Glanfrwd.  And  the  third, 
a  very  large  circular  one,  is  between  the  same  farm  and  the  parish  of  Pen- 
carreg ;  the  road  to  Lampeter  passes  through  it. 

The  living  of  Cellan  is  a  rectory,  in  the  gift  of  the  Bishop  of  St.  David’s. 
The  building  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel,  with  an  ancient  porch.  In 
it  are  two  sacristories,  to  hold  holy  water.  There  was  formerly  a  rood-loft, 
the  door  of  which  only  remains. 

About  the  fourth  mile  is  Llanfair  Clywedogau,  from  the  three  brooks  Gly- 
wedogau  forming  the  stream  which  passes  this  place,  and  falls  into  the 
Teifi.  They  are  distinguished  by  the  terms  uchav,  upper  ;  isav,  lower; 
and  canol  central.  This  place  has  been  celebrated  for  its  mineral  works, 
now  too  much  under  water  to  be  productive.  The  living  is  a  perpetual 
curacy.  The  church  consists  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  porch  ;  it  contains  a 
monument  of  black  stone  to  a  son  and  daughter  of  John  Hughes  of  Gwern- 
meth. 

This  road  lies  upon  the  w.  side  of  the  Teifi.  Some  prefer  the  e.  to 
Llanddewi  Brefi,  and  then  cross  the  river  to  Llanio  isav.  At  2  m,  near  the 
village  Flan  Filian^  stands  a  solitary  pillar,  in  a  field  on  the  r.  of  the  road. 
Mr.  Newell  has  made  this  stone  the  subject  of  the  vignette  in  the  title  to  his 
elegant  work  on  the  “  Scenery  of  \Tales.” 

Flanddewi  Bred  (from  Llan,a  church,  Ddewi,  David,  and  Brevi,  the  name 
of  the  brook  which  passes  by,)  is  7  m*  from  Lampeter,  and  noted  for 
the  synod  held  here  in  519,  when  St.  David  preached  against  the  Pelagian 
heresy.  A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  s.s.  e.  of  the  church  stood  a  college, 
the  ruins  of  which  still  retain  the  name  of  Lluest  Cantorion,  or  the 


LAMPETER. 


321 


Residence  of  the  Chanters the  remains  of  a  paved  way  leading  from  it  to 
the  s.  door  of  the  church  are  still  visible  in  two  houses  near  the  church¬ 
yard.  On  the  w.  side  of  the  river  Camddwr^  in  this  parish,  is  an  old 
military  work  called  Castell/’  raised  by  Rhys  ap  Owain  and  Rhydderch 
ab  Caradog,  princes  of  S.  Wales,  at  the  time  when  Gronw  and  Llywelyn, 
the  sons  of  Cadwgan  ap  Bleddyn  raised  an  insurrection  to  revenge  the 
murder  of  their  grandfather.  The  church  was  founded  by  Thomas  Bee, 
1187,  in  honour  of  St.  David.  It  is  a  handsome  Gothic  structure,  in  the 
form  of  a  cross,  with  a  side  aisle  on  the  s.  of  the  nave.  In  this  edifice 
were  the  remains  of  the  inside  of  a  large  petrified  horn,  about  a  foot  long, 
and  very  porous.  Bishop  Gibson  says,  the  sexton  showed  him  a  rarity 
called  Matkorn-yr-ych-banawg  or  matkorn-ych-Ddewi,  which  he  said  had 
been  preserved  there  ever  since  the  time  of  St.  David.  Ycainhanawg,  the 
large  horned  oxen,  Dr.  Owen  Pugh  thinks  were  some  kind  of  animals 
which  had  formerly  a  habitat  in  Wales,  probably  of  the  moose-elk,  or 
bison  species.  These  gave  rise  to  many  stories  which  are  current  over  al 
Wales  ;  and  there  is  hardly  a  lake,  but  is  asserted  to  be  the  one  out  of  which 
the  Ychain  banawg  drew  the  Amnc,  another  fearful  animal  now  named  the 
beaver.  Mr.  Lloyd  found  the  following  inscription  over  the  chancel  door:  — 

HIC  lACET  IDNERT  FILIVS  I 

QUI  OCCISVS  FVIT  PROPTER  P 

SANCTI 


He  adds  to  the  first  line  acobi,  to  the  second  redam,  and  to  the  third 
David.  It  is  now  over  a  window,  on  the  n.  side  of  the  chancel.  In  the  church¬ 
yard  near  the  w.  end  of  the  church,  is  a  very  curious  old  monument  7  ft.  7  in. 
above  the  ground,  and  about  10  in.  square.  It  has  an  inscription  which 
cannot  be  deciphered.  Tradition  calls  it  St,  David’s  leaning- staff.  A  gate-post 
to  the  w.  entrance  of  the  cemetery  has  simply  a  cross  upon  it.  Another  is 
on  the  side  of  the  e.  entrance,  3  ft.  10  in.  high,  1  ft.  2  in.  wide,  and 
6  in.  thick ;  the  inscription  is  illegible.  Take  the  left  road  soon  after 
quitting  Llanddewi,  continue  a  mile,  and  cross  the  Teifi  at  Pont  Llanio, 
where  occurs  the  road  on  the  w.  side  of  the  river  before  described. 

To  Aberystwith.  Dewi-gocli,2  m.  Gilfach-wen,  ^  m.  Rhyd-y-gof-isav, 
^  m.  on  the  1.  Cross  the  Croythin  near  its  source,  which  is  a  tributary  to  the 
Teifi.  BryngoleUy  l:|:m.  (On  the  1.  to  Aberaeron,  8im.)  Penwern,  |  m. 
King’s  Head,  |  m.  m.  on  the  r.  occurs  Velindre.  1  m.  to  the  r.  is 
Ahermeurig |  m.  further,  on  the  1.,  Llanllear.  Cross  the  Aeron  to  Tal- 
sarn,  |  m.  Trefilan,  1  m.  (On  the  1.  Gelli.  Gwrth  Wynt-uchav,  1  m.) 
Rhiw-las-uchav,  I5  m.  (On  the  1.  Cilcennyn,  and  Aeron  Vale ;  on  the  r.  to 
Pencraig,  Cwrt-mawr,  and  places  w.  of  Tregaron.)  Cross  the  river 
at  Dyffryn~Arth,  1^  m.  Pen-y-hont,  2|-  m.,  where  is  an  excellent  Inn. 
Cross  the  Cledon  at  Pont  Havod-perris,  5  m.  Llanrhystyd,  2  m.  (On  the  r. 
is  Ystrad  Teilo,  and  about  1|  m.  beyond  is  Mahus.^  See  the  remainder  of 
this  route  from  Llanrhystyd  to  Aberystwith. 

Angling  Stations.  —  Pumsant,  6  m.  s.  e.,  is  a  good  station  on  the  Cothy  ; 
Dihewyd,  8  m.;  Dothig-Camddwr,  142m,,  excellent;  Llandewy  Abe?'- 
arth,  13m.;  Llan-wch-aeron,  11m.  Excellent  salmon  ;  fish  downwards  ; 
Talsarn,  6  m. ;  Llangeitho,  8  j  m.  Above  Lampeter,  trout  of  3  and  4  lbs. 
are  not  uncommon ;  30  lbs.  weight  may  be  taken  in  a  day  by  fly-fishing  or 
trolling  with  either  the  artificial  or  natural  minnow. 


To  Llandeilo-fawr,  24  miles.  Barber. 

Newcastle  in  Emlyn,  19 miles.  Malkin;  Skrine. 
Tregaron,  11  miles.  Wyndham. 
i  Strata  Florida,  16  miles. 


To  Aberaeron,  13  miles.  Lipscomb. 
Carmarthen,  23^  miles. 
Aberystwith,  24  miles. 

Cardigan,  28^  miles. 


Y 


322 


LLANBADARN-FAWR. 

Fi  om  Pont-y-Mynach,  12  miles.  Wyndham.  |  From  Aberystwith,  li  mile.  Lipscomb. 

Tregaron,  18  miles.  Skrine.  | 

LLANBADARN-FAWR  is  a  parish  situated  in  a  valley_,  1  m.  s.  e. 
from  Aberystwith,  in  Cardiganshire,  partly  in  the  hundred  of  liar,  and 
partly  in  that  of  Genau’r  Glynn  ;  the  living  is  a  discharged  vicarage  ;  the 
bishop  of  St.  David’s  patron.  The  resident  population  of  this  township 
in  1801,  was  3852.  According  to  Mr.  Meyrick,  the  manor  is  called 
Y-Faenor,  and  belongs  to  the  Duke  of  Leeds.  The  Crown  Manors  are 
free  Soccage  tenures ;  courts  leet  and  baron  are  kept  in  them.  The 
waste  land  consists  of  about  8000  acres.  There  are  no  tithes  belonging  to 
the  vicarage.  The  market  is  removed  to  Aberystwith.  In  the  year  1038, 
Gryflpydd  ah  Llywelyn  ah  Sitsyllt  invaded  Cardiganshire,  when  he  laid  this 
town  in  ashes,  and  afterwards  marching  through  all  S.  Wales,  compelled 
the  people  to  take  an  oath  of  allegiance  to  him.  There  are  several  British 
fortifications  in  this  parish,  as  there  are  all  over  the  county.  The  most 
remarkable  is  Pen-y~Dinas,  near  Aberystwith.  The  sanctity  of  St.  Du- 
bricius  and  St.  David,  drew  into  Britany  from  foreign  parts,  St.  Paternus, 
a  devout  young  man,  who  built  here  a  Church  and  Monastery.  A  church 
here  was  destroyed  by  the  Danes  in  the  year  98  75  and  another  in  1038. 
The  present  Church  is  large,  built  in  the  early  pointed  style,  containing  a 
massive  square  tower,  supported  by  lofty  arches.  The  interior  consists  of 
a  nave  and  chancel  formed  of  rough  materials,  with  a  few  modern  mo¬ 
numents  of  the  Pryse  family,  one  to  Cornelius  le  Brun,  of  Cologne,  John 
Jones  of  Nant-Eos,  and  several  of  the  Powels.  A  flat  stone  in  the  chancel 
covers  the  grave  of  Lewis  Morris,  the  celebrated  antiquarian.  He  was 
brought  up  a  land  surveyor,  but  filled  several  offices  under  government. 
He  was  first  collector  of  the  duties  and  customs  at  Holyhead.  In  1738, 
the  Admiralty  appointed  him  to  survey  the  coast  of  Wales,  which  was 
published  in  1748.  He  became  surveyor  of  the  crown  lands  in  Wales, 
and  was  agent  and  superintendent  of  the  king’s  mines.  He  composed 
poetry,  several  specimens  of  which  appear  in  the  collection  of  David  Jones 
of  Trefriw,  called  Diddan  wch  Teuluaidd.”  He  planned  a  valuable 
work,  entitled  Celtic  Remains,”  of  the  nature  of  an  historical,  topo¬ 
graphical,  and  etymological  dictionary,  which  was  left  in  the  hands  of  the 
Rev.  Walter  Davies,  in  a  state  of  considerable  improvement.  Lewis  Morris 
passed  the  latter  part  of  his  life  at  Fenbryn,,  in  Cardiganshire,  a  small 
mansion  which  devolved  to  him  on  his  second  marriage.  Among  his  various 
pursuits  he  performed  well  on  the  harp,  violin,  flute,  and  horn,  and  knew 
so  much  of  physic  and  surgery  as  to  administer  to  the  afflicted  poor.  The 
s.  portal  is  light  and  elegant.  The  chancel  and  n.  transept  are  separated 
from  the  rest  of  the  church  by  light  and  elegant  carved  screens  of  elaborate 
workmanship,  probably  erected  about  the  time  of  Henry  VII.  On  the 
s.  side  of  the  church  are  two  ancient  stone  crosses  ;  one  of  them  stands  in 
a  reclining  position,  adorned  with  Runic  knots  and  circles,  the  other  in  the 
shape  of  a  cross  is  probably  of  greater  antiquity :  it  is  almost  buried  in 
rubbish.  According  to  the  diocesan  report  in  1809;,  the  yearly  value  of 
this  benefice  was  1367.  12^.  The  suffragan  bishop  of  Llanbadarn-fawr  was 
one  of  the  seven  who  had  conference  with  Augustine  the  Monk,  who 
wished  to  establish  his  own  supremacy  over  the  British  church.  Mr.  Edward 


LLANBERIS, 


323 


Llwyd  supposes^  that  the  ancient  inscription  upon  a  tomb  in  Llan-ddewi- 
brefi,  is  to  the  memory  of  the  bishop  of  Llanbadarn-fawr^  who  was  bar¬ 
barously  murdered.  Before  this  event  this  place  had  continued  an  epis¬ 
copal  see,  as  established  by  St.  Paternus  ;  afterwards  it  was  united  to 
St.  David’s.  The  church  seems  to  have  been  given,  a. n.  1111,  to  St. 
Peter’s  of  Gloucester,  and  was  afterwards  appropriated  to  the  Abbey  of 
Vale  Royal  in  Cheshire.  (^Tanner’s  Not.  Mon.^  On  the  n.  side  of  the 
church,  the  buildings  were,  probably,  a  part  of  the  old  monastery,  a  pointed 
arch,  and  other  circumstances  indicating  great  antiquity.  Some  land  in 
this  parish  is  still  called  Tir-y-mynach,  or  the  Monk’s  Land.  Above 
the  church  is  a  small  narrow  dingle,  in  a  particular  part  of  which  the 
church  bells  while  ringing,  cannot  be  heard,  yet  by  moving  a  little  one 
way  or  the  other,  they  may  be  heard  distinctly.  An  immense  stone  remains 
in  the  centre  of  the  village,^but  has  been  broken  by  making  a  bonfire  upon 
it.  The  Roman  road  called  Sarn  Helen,  from  Loventium,  now  Llanio,  to 
Penallt,  near  Machynlleth,  passes  through  a  farm  in  Llanbadarn  parish 
called  Llwyn-rhynawL 

At  a  short  distance  from  Llanbadarn-fawr,  Mr.  Skrine  joined  the  great 
road  from  Aberystwith  to  N.  Wales,  and  passing  Tal-y-bont,  gained  a  view 
of  the  coast,  where  a  vast  range  of  mountains  extends  along  the  Merioneth 
side  of  the  Dyfi.  This  river  forms  here  an  estuary,  capable  of  receiving 
large  vessels,  and  occasionally  inundates  a  considerable  plain.  Crossing 
the  stream  of  Llyfnant,  which  divides  the  counties  of  Montgomery  and 
Cardigan,  he  soon  reached  the  town  of  Machynlleth. 

Sir  Richard  Hoare  advises  the  tourist  to  examine  on  his  way  to  Ma¬ 
chynlleth  the  Roman  station  at  Penallt,  rather  than  go  to  Aberdovey  and 
Towyn  ;  and  from  Penallt  instead  of  pursuing  the  dreary  road  along  the 
coast  to  Barmouth,  to  take  the  more  mountainous  track  near  the  pretty 
lakes  of  Tal-y~Llyn,  and  under  the  majestic  base  of  Cader  Idris  to  Dol- 
GELLY,  in  which  route  he  will  see  in  fine  display  some  of  the  grandest 
scenery  in  N.  Wales. 

The  route  to  Aberystwith  by  way  of  Aberaeron,  though  5  m.  further 
than  that  through  the  village  of  Llan-llyr,  commands  much  more  beauty  of 
scenery,  and  to  those  who  travel  in  carriages,  the  avoidance  of  a  long  and 
steep  ascent  of  2  m.  is  another  consideration. 

To  Newtown  (having  passed  nearly  2  m.,  is  a  mountainous  road  on 
the  1.  to  Rhaiadyr,  about  7  m.;  another  on  the  r.  to  Presteign,  about  14  m.). 
Cross  the  Ithon  to  Llanddewi,  Ystradenny ,  3^  m.  Llanhister,  3  m.  Pass 
Llanano,  and  Castell  Dayhod,  on  the  1.  Here  two  roads  lead  to  Llanbadarn 
Fynydd,  3  m.  Kerry  Hills,  7  m.  Newtown,  I|  m. 

To  Aberystwith,  If  mile.  Wyndham.  I  To  Aberaeron,  16  miles.  Lipscomb. 

Machynlleth,  19  miles.  Skrine.  |  Dblbaclarn  Castle,  2  miles. 


LLANBERIS. 

From  Caernarvon,  byway  of  Dblbadarn  Castle,  From  Snowdon,  4  miles.  Hutton;  Evans. 
10  miles.  Bingley.  Beddgelart,  12  miles. 

Capel  Curig,  8  miles.  Pennant ;  Aikin  : 

Pugh. 


‘  LLANBERIS,  in  Caernarvonshire,  is  a  small  rude  village,  surrounded  by 
vast  rocks,  the  cloud-capped  summits  of  which  are  seldom  visible  to  the 
inhabitants  below.  Except  three  or  four  houses,  Llanberis  consists  of  cot- 

Y  2 


324 


LLANBERIS. 


tages  constructed  of  stone,  without  any  plaster  within,  the  windows  scarcely 
admitting  sufficient  light  to  make  even  darkness  visible;”  yet  the  inha¬ 
bitants  appear  more  happy  in  this  secluded  place  with  the  bare  necessaries 
of  existence,  than  millions  in  busy  life,  of  more  exalted  station. 

“  Though  poor  the  peasant’s  hut,  his  feasts  though  small, 

He  finds  his  little  lot  the  lot  of  all ; 

Sees  no  contiguous  balace  rear  its  head. 

To  shame  the  meanness  of  his  humble  shed  ; 

No  costly  lord  the  sumptuous  banquet  deal. 

To  make  him  loath  his  vegetable  meal.” 

Since  the  opening  of  the  new  line  of  road  from  Caernarvon  to  Capel 
Curig,  Llanberis  has  become  the  principal  resort  of  parties  visiting  Snow¬ 
don,  to  which  mountain  the  ascent  is  easier  from  this  village,  than  from  any 
other  point  in  the  district,  and  may  be  accomplished  on  horseback  almost 
to  the  summit,  Yr  Wyddfa.  In  addition  to  the  spacious  and  comfortable 
inn  of  Dolbadarn,  a  new  and  more  capacious  house  of  entertainment  is 
erected,  in  a  more  splendid  style,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  increased 
number  of  visitors. 

In  this  village  are  two  houses,  at  either  of  which  the  wearied  traveller  may 
be  accommodated  with  such  refreshments  as  the  place  affords :  this  amounts 
to  little  more  than  eggs,  bread,  butter,  cheese,  and  milk.  The  resident  po¬ 
pulation  of  this  parish,  in  1801,  was  464,  in  1831,  725.  The  Church  is 
a  low,  cruciform  edifice,  in  a  deep  glen  a  m.  above  the  upper  lake.  It  is  dedi¬ 
cated  to  Peris,  described  as  a  saint  and  cardinal  of  Rome.  This  is  pro¬ 
bably  a  mistake,  and  if  not,  it  is  the  only  instance  admitted  in  Bonedd-y- 
Saint”  in  connection  with  the  papal  see.  This  venerable  structure  contains 
two  small  chapels,  and  in  the  chancel  a  good  Eo  window.  The  whole  har¬ 
monises  agreeably  with  the  surrounding  scenery.  The  Rev.  Peter  Wilhams, 
a  distinguished  and  eminent  British  antiquary — his  residence  is  near  the 
base  of  Snowdon — was  rector  of  this  place.  At  a  short  distance  above  the 
church  is  a  huge  stone,  called  Y-Gromlech,  resting  upon  smaller  ones,  so  as 
to  leave  a  spacious  room  underneath ;  insomuch  that  some  years  since  a 
poor  old  woman  made  her  habitation  under  it,  and  lived  there  a  long  time 
rent-free.  Leland  says  that  in  his  time  the  narrow  pass  leading  to  the 
church  was  called  Nant-y-Mynach,  the  Monk’s  Valley.”  The  saint  is  said 
to  have  drank  daily  at  a  spring  still  called  St-  Peris’ s  well,  famed  for  the  cure 
of  many  diseases.  There  are  other  famous  fountains  in  this  vicinity,  but  not 
noted  for  any  particular  impregnation  ;  as  Ffynnon-Cegin- Arthur,  F.  Moel 
Rhiwen,  F.  Pen-y~gaer,  and  F.  free.  The  lower  meadows  in  this  vale,  though 
pleasant,  are  but  few  and  scanty.  The  hay  grounds  upon  the  declivity  of  the 
hills  are  extensive,  particularly  those  about  Cwma-brwynawg ;  yet  the  crops 
are  so  poor  that  a  stranger  would  not  think  them  worth  mowing,  the  grass 
being  commonly  not  above  4  inches  in  length.  A  sheep  fair  is  held  here 
on  Sep.  18.,  and  a  festival  on  the  26th  of  July.  No  carriage-road  from 
Caernarvon  approaches  nearer  Llanberis  than  the  bottom  of  the  lower  lake; 
the  road  thence  is  nothing  more  than  a  horse-path.  Maurice  Pritchard, 
parish  clerk,  is  the  guide.  Those  who  do  not  choose  to  walk  may  be  con¬ 
veyed  in  boats  to  the  waterfall,  to  Dolbadarn  Castle,  or  to  the  village. 

On  the  N.E.  side  of  the  village  is  a  lofty  and  almost  perpendicular  moun¬ 
tain  called  Glyder-fawr,  ‘‘  the  Great  Glyder.”  The  ascent  is  steep  and 
tiresome.  The  path  all  the  way  rocky,  and  in  many  places  very  wet  and  ' 
slippery.  On  the  1.  of  the  ascent  may  be  seen,  at  some  distance,  two  high 
mountains,  called  Llyder-mawr  and  Llyder-hach,  the  greater  and  lesser 


LLANBERIS. 


325 


Llyder.  The  guide  will  point  out^  at  4  or  5  m.  distance  towards  the  n., 
and  beyond  the  deep  hollows  of  Nant-Francon  and  Cwm  Idwal_,  the  lofty 
mountains  of  Carnedd  Dafydd  and  Carnedd  Llywelyn. 

The  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Llanberis  supplies  the  Papaver  cam- 
nricum ;  on  moist  rocks,  Cochlearia  officinalis,  Campanula  hederacea,  Scu¬ 
tellaria  minor,  Festuca  rubra,  Hymenophyllum  tunbridgense,  Pteris  crispa. 
Polypodium  Phegopteris,  Gentiana  campestris,  Silene  acaulis,  Asplenium  ni¬ 
grum,  A.  Ruta  muraria,  Arenaria  laricifolia,  Tremella  verrucosa,  T.  utricu- 
lata.  Polypodium  Lonchitis,  Hieracium  murorum,  Galium  boreale,  Fontinalis 
squamosa.  Cotyledon  Umbilicus,  Carex  atrata  ;  in  mountainous  situations, 
Arenaria  verna,  Glaucium  luteum,  with  Musci  and  Algae  in  profusion.  In 
Ffynnon-frec  there  is  a  great  variety  of  aquatic  plants,  among  which  are 
Isoetes  lacustris,  Subularia  aquatica,  and  Lobelia  Dortmanna.  In  the  vale, 
Trollius  europaeus.  In  peat-bogs  in  Cwm  Brwynog,  Scirpus  caespitosus. 
On  Crib-y-Ddescil,  a  high  rock  near,  Aira  flexuosa.  Upon  the  highest 
mountains  around,  Poa  caesia.  Festuca  rubra  /3,  Campanula  rotundifolia. 
Lycopodium  selaginoides,  L.  Selago,  moist  places.  In  a  moist  dell  at  the 
foot  of  Snowdon,  Aspidium  Thelypteris.  Between  Llanberis  and  Cwm- 
Idwal,  Sedum  rupestre.  In  the  vale  of  Llanberis,  which  is  straight,  and 
nearly  of  an  equal  breadth  throughout,  are  two  lakes  or  pools.  The  upper 
one  is  about  1  m.  in  length,  and  something  less  than  ^  m.  over ;  the  other, 
though  rather  longer,  is  so  narrow  that  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  wide  river. 
These  are  separated  by  a  small  neck  of  land,  having  only  a  communication 
by  the  stream  of  the  Seiont,  which  flows  between  them.  In  the  lakes  grows 
Sparganium  natans.  Among  the  bushes,  in  the  meadows  in  Cwm-y-Clo, 
bottom  of  the  lower  lake,  Epilobium  angustifolium.  In  the  river  Seiont, 
between  the  lower  pool  and  Cwm-y-Glo,  Lobelia  Dortmanna.  Upon  Crib- 
Coch,  above  Ffynnon-frec,  Polygonium  viviparum.  In  the  first  and 
second  field  towards  Snowdon,  Polypodium  Phegopteris.  Asplenium  sep- 
tentrionale,  on  Craig  Ddw.  Near  Llanberis  Pass,  Hymenophyllum  Wil¬ 
son!,  Lycopodium  selaginoides.  This  vale  is  truly  picturesque,  bounded  by 
the  base  of  Snowdon,  Cefn-cwm-geifyr,  the  two  Glyders,  and  the  Llyders. 
About  A  from  the  village,  on  the  s.  of  the  upper  lake,  is  a  copper  mine, 
consisting  of  several  horizontal  galleries  driven  into  Snowdon,  which  has 
been  wrought  for  a  century,  but  now  thought  to  be  nearly  exhausted.  The 
metal  is  a  rich  yellow  ore,  containing  copper  in  union  with  sulphur.  The 
mine  at  Clogwyn-Cochy  ‘‘  the  Red  Rock,”  is  of  modern  date.  The  ore  of 
both  is  found  in  a  matrix  of  quartz,  imbedded  in  hard  masses  of  hornstone 
and  whinstone  schist.  Here  are  also  extensive  quarries  of  slate,  formerly 
worked  on  a  small  scale ;  but  since  1824  others  were  opened,  and  now  afford 
employment  to  upwards  of  300  hands.  On  a  rocky  eminence  between  these 
sheets  of  water  stand  the  remains  of  Dolhadarn  Castle,  the  only  fortification 
that  remains  in  these  narrow  passes.  It  is  constructed  of  the  schistose  stone, 
and  mortar  composed  of  marine  shells.  As  it  was  impossible  for  an  enemy 
to  climb  the  chain  of  mountains  which  guard  Caernarvonshire  and  Anglesea, 
and  as  there  were  five  defiles,  the  Britons  secured  each  with  a  castle.  This 
was  the  central  one,  of  which  the  only  remaining  portion  is  a  round  turret, 
in  diameter  10  yards,  and  25  high ;  this  seems  to  have  been  the  principal 
part,  for  it  occupies  the  whole  of  a  small  round  elevated  rock.  It  appears 
to  have  consisted  of  three  stories,  exclusive  of  a  vaulted  basement,  used  as  a 
dungeon ;  a  few  broken  steps  show  that  the  intercommunication  was  by  a 
spiral  staircase.  One  of  the  bastions  of  Caernarvon  Castle  is  nearly  the 
size  of  this ;  it  could  not  accommodate  more  than  fifteen  men.  The  British 

Y  3 


326 


LLANBERIS. 


race  of  kings  acted  on  a  small  scale  compared  with  the  Norman.  It  is 
called  Castell  Dolbadarn^  having  been  erected  on  the  verge  of  a  piece  of 
ground_,  called  Padarn’s  Meadow^,  supposed  to  be  the  place  to  which  a  holy 
recluse  of  that  name  retired.  In  Leland’s  time  the  contiguous  lake  was 
called  Llyn  Padarn^  and  the  vale  below  the  castle  Nant  Padarn.  This  castle 
is  probably  as  ancient  as  the  6th  century,  being  mentioned  as  possessed  by 
Maelgwn  Gwynedd,  Prince  of  N.  Wales,  during  his  contention  with  the 
Saxons.  It  is  one  of  the  few  Welsh  castles  of  which  any  fragments  remain, 
for  most  of  those  in  N.  Wales  were  built  by  Edward  I. ;  and  those  in 
S.  Wales  by  the  Normans  and  Flemings.  In  this  castle  Owain  Goch  was 
imprisoned  from  1254  to  1277j,  for  having  joined  in  a  rebellion  against  his 
brother,  Llywelyn  ap  Jorwerth,  the  last  prince  of  Wales.  In  1283  the 
Earl  of  Pembroke,  after  a  short  resistance,  took  this  fortress  from  the  Welsh. 
It  seems  to  have  been  long  in  ruins,  for  in  Leland’s  time  there  was  only  a 
portion  of  one  tower  left.  J  m.  s.  of  the  castle,  at  the  termination  of  a 
deep  glen,  is  a  tremendous  cataract  or  waterfall,  called  Ceunant-mawr ,  ‘‘  the 
Waterfall  of  the  Great  Chasm.”  This  ledge  of  rock  is  more  than  60  ft.  in 
height,  rushing  through  a  cleft  in  the  rock,  and  after  coming  in  a  direct 
line,  suddenly  takes  a  turn  with  the  broad  substratum  of  the  rock,  and  thus 
descends  aslant,  with  a  thundering  noise,  into  the  deep  black  pool  below. 
A  mountain  torrent,  from  Cwm  Brwyniawg,  rushes  through  a  cleft  in  the 
superincumbent  rock  ;  and  after  issuing  in  a  straight  line  for  a  few  yards, 
it  suddenly  takes  a  slanting  direction,  rolling  over  a  broad  portion  of  the 
stratum  into  the  vale  below.  Near  Dolbadarn  Castle  grow  Arundo  colorata, 
Bryum  alpinum,  and  Hymenophyllum  tunbridgense  var.  /3,  having  its 
fructification  on  naked  footstalks,  upon  rocks.  Nothing  can  exceed  the 
beauty  of  this  ruin  as  it  appears  from  the  lake  ;  the  promontory  on  which 
it  stands ;  its  image  reflected  from  the  crystal  wave ;  the  lofty  mountains 
on  each  side ;  the  upper  lake  stretching  towards  the  church  of  Llanberis, 
with  Snowdon  in  the  background ;  while  the  waters,  rushing  from  the 
upper  into  the  lower  lake,  form  a  fine  natural  canal.  Llyn  Leris,  though 
not  of  such  large  dimensions,  is  not  less  beautiful.  It  furnishes  the  botanist 
with  Subularia  aquatica,  Nymphsea  alba,  Alisma  natans,  Isoetes  lacustris, 
Sparganium  simplex,  and  S.  natans. 

The  slate  quarries  belong  to  T.  A.  Smith,  Esq. 

Near  the  end  of  the  lower  lake  formerly  lived  the  celebrated  Margaret 
Uch  Evan,  who  died  in  1801,  at  the  age  of  105  ;  she  was  the  last  specimen 
of  the  strength  and  spirit  of  the  ancient  British  fair.  “  This  extraordinary 
female,”  says  Mr.  Pennant,  was  the  greatest  hunter,  shooter,  and  fisher 
of  her  time  ;  she  kept  a  dozen,  at  least,  of  dogs,  terriers,  greyhounds,  and 
spaniels,  all  excellent  in  their  kinds.  She  killed  more  foxes  in  one  year 
than  all  the  confederate  hunts  do  in  ten  ;  rowed  stoutly,  and  was  queen  of 
the  lake ;  fiddled  excellently,  and  knew  all  the  old  British  music ;  did  not 
neglect  the  mechanic  arts,  for  she  was  a  good  joiner;  and  at  the  age  of  70 
w^as  the  best  wrestler  in  the  country,  so  that  few  young  men  dared  to  try  a 
fall  with  her.  She  had  a  maid  of  congenial  qualities ;  but  death,  that 
mighty  hunter,  at  last  earthed  this  faithful  companion.  Margaret  was  also 
blacksmith,  shoemaker,  boat-builder,  and  maker  of  harps.  She  shod  her 
own  horses,  made  her  own  shoes,  and  built  her  own  boats,  while  she  was 
under  contract  to  convey  the  copper  ore  down  the  lakes.  All  the  neigh¬ 
bouring  bards  paid  their  addresses  to  Margaret,  and  celebrated  her  exploits 
in  pure  British  verse.  At  length  she  gave  her  hand  to  the  most  effeminate 
of  her  admirers,  as  if  predetermined  to  maintain  the  superiority  which  na¬ 
ture  had  bestowed  on  her.” 


LLANBERIS. 


S27 


AN  ACCOUNT  OF  AN  EXCURSION  FROM  LLANBERIS  TO  THE 

SUMMITS  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS  GLYDER  AND  TRIFAEN. 

BY  THE  BEV.  W.  BINGLEY. 

Mr.  Bingley  arose  early  in  the  morning,  and  at  seven  set  out  from  the 
village,  directing  his  route  up  the  mountains  on  the  n.e.  side  of  the  vale  of 
Llanberis.  From  the  brow  of  the  first  eminence,  immediately  above  the 
village,  the  church,  with  its  half-dozen  houses,  and  a  few  trees  and  mea¬ 
dows,  were  seen  almost  as  upon  a  map.  Beyond  these,  and  exactly  oppo¬ 
site,  extend  a  long  range  of  serrated  rocks.  From  the  eminence  next  above, 
the  whole  extent  of  the  lakes  are  brought  into  view.  In  a  flat,  almost  sur¬ 
rounded  by  rocks,  is  a  small  pool,  called  Llyn-y-cwm,  the  Pool  of  the 
Dogs.”  This  alpine  lake  is  said  to  have  contained  a  monocular  kind  of 
trout,  perch,  and  eels,  each  wanting  the  left  eye.  At  present  the  pool 
appears  entirely  destitute  of  fish.  Proceeding  about  ^  m.  along  a  flat, 
swampy  piece  of  ground,  an  immense  precipice  of  above  100  yards  in  per¬ 
pendicular  height  forms  one  side  of  the  hollow  which  encloses  the  black 
waters  of  Llyn  Idwal.  In  this  lake  grows  Lobelia  dortmanna;  sparingly 
upon  the  rocks  above,  Saxifraga  csespitosa,  S.  palmata ;  upon  high  rocks 
between  Llanberis  and  Llyn  Idwal,  called  Creigiau  Hysfa  Bengam,  Draba 
incana.  This  hollow,  surrounded  by  dark  and  prominent  rocks,  is  called 
Cwm  Idwal;  said  to  have  been  the  place  where  Idwal,  the  son  of  Owain 
Gwynedd,  was  murdered  at  the  instigation  of  Nefydd  Hardd.  See  338. 
Between  Llanberis  and  Cwm  Idwal  grows  Sedum  rupestre.  Descend¬ 
ing  along  the  broken  rocks  on  one  side  of  this  precipice  to  a  great  depth 
into  the  hollow,  and  turning  among  the  larger  masses,  rather  more  than  half 
way  down,  where  the  descent  is  more  gradual,  we  arrive  at  the  foot  of  a 
profound  chasm,  called  Twl-du,  the  Black  Cleft.”  A  scene  more  sublime 
the  pencil  of  Salvator  Rosa  could  not  have  traced.  The  stream  from  Llyn- 
y-Cwm  rolls  down  the  deep  cleft  from  a  vast  height,  broken  in  its  descent 
by  a  hundred  intercepting  rocks.  Among  these,  at  the  base,  are  many  cir- 
'  cular  perforations,  of  different  sizes.  The  Welsh  people  call  these  hollows 
the  Devil's  Pots,  and  the  place  itself  the  DeviFs  Kitchen.  Crossing  the 
foot  of  a  range  of  rocks  on  the  e.  side  at  Cwm  Idwal,  we  come  so  close  to 
Nant-Francon  as  to  have  a  view  of  nearly  its  whole  extent.  Still  proceed¬ 
ing,  we  attain  the  highest  part  of  the  rocks  surrounding  Cwm  Idwal,  on 
the  verge  of  another  hollow,  called  Cwm  Bochlwyd,  containing  the  pool 
Llyn  Bochlwyd,  From  this  situation  the  whole  conic  summit  of  Trifaen 
is  in  view ;  the  ascent  is  arduous.  At  length  we  contemplate  from  the 
massy  crag ;  and  truly  the  scene  around  is  rude  as  mountain  horror  can 
render  it.  We  stand  upon  a  mere  point,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a  fearful 
precipice.  The  apex  is  crowned  by  two  upright  stones,  12  or  14  ft.  high, 
about  1  \  yard  asunder,  each  somewhat  more  than  a  yard  across  at  the  summit. 

Descending  from  Trifaen,  and  crossing  a  mountain  vale,  the  side  of 
Glyder-hach,  or  lesser  Glyder,  may  be  encountered.  This  mountain  though 
considerably  higher  than  Trifaen,  is  neither  so  steep  nor  so  rocky.  Upon 
its  summit  are  several  groups  of  columnar  stones,  some  standing  upright, 
others  transverse,  and  in  various  directions  ;  many  of  them  are  from  l6  to 
20  ft.  long,  and  12  or  14  broad.  Maiiy  are  fossiliferous,  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  have  been  found  fragments  of  lava.  [See  an  account  of 
Mr.  Pennant’s  excursion  from  Capel  Curig.] 

On  his  way  to  the  summits  of  Glyder-mawr,  ‘‘  the  Greater  Glyder,”  Mr. 
Bingley  observed  several  of  the  same  kind  of  insulated  masses  of  rock 
scattered  in  different  directions.  He  found  the  Juncus  triglumis  in  this 

Y  4 


328 


LLANBEIIIS. 


ascent  in  a  small  spot^  lying  between  the  eminence  of  Bryn-Bras  and  the 
rivulet  of  Avon-Las ;  in  another  place  Carduus  heterophyllus^  and  Solidago 
Virgaurea  jo.  Near  the  summit^  Saxifraga  nivalis ;  among  the  rocks^ 
S.  oppositifolia ;  Hieracium  alpinum^  and  Pteris  crispa.  Near  the  top, 
upon  the  side  which  hangs  over  Llyn-Ogwen  rocks,  near  Fynnon  Pelin, 
Polypodium  rhseticum.  In  Ffynnon-frec,  growing  with  Subularia 
aquatica,  Isoetes  lacustris.  Upon  Trigfychan  rocks,  Hieracium  alpinum. 
From  this  situation  he  had  a  grand  and  unbounded  prospect,  before  him  of 
the  immense  mountains  of  Caernarvonshire ;  the  whole  of  the  Isle  of 
Anglesea,  and  in  the  distance  the  Isle  of  Man,  resembling  a  faint  cloud. 
After  a  fourteen  hours’  ramble,  he  returned  to  the  vale  of  Llanberis,  by  way 
of  Llyn-y-Cwm.  Near  Twl  Du,  and  about  the  pool  of  Llyn-y-Cwm,  he 
found  the  following  plants: — Melica  caerulea,  Festuca  rubra,  F.  cambrica, 
Plantago  maritima,  Galium  boreale.  Lobelia  Dortmanna,  Parnassia 
palustris,  Saxifraga  stellaris,  S.  nivalis,  S.  oppositifolia,  S.  hypnoides,  S.  pal- 
mata,  S.  csespitosa,  Silene  acaulis,  Arenaria  verna,  A.  var.  /3  juniperina, 
A.  var.  y  laricifolia,  Sedum  rupestre,  Rubus  saxatilis,  R.  Chamsemorus, 
Thalictrum  alpinum,  T.  minus,  Subularia  aquatica,  Draba  incana, 
Cochlearia  officinalis,  C.  y  greenlandica,  Hieracium  alpinum,  H.  Taraxaci, 
H.  aurantiacum,  Statice  Armerm,  Anther icum  serotinum,  or  the  Bulbocodium 
of  Ray,  Juncus  triglumis,  Rumex  digynus,  Vaccinium  Myrtillus,  Chrysosple- 
nium  oppositifolium,  Gnaphalium  dioicum,  Carex  divisa,  C.  flava,  C.  atrata, 
C.  pilulifera,  Empetrum  nigrum,  Rhodiola  rosea,  Juniperus  communis  var.  /3., 
Lycopodium  selaginoides,  L.  Selago,  L.  alpinum,  Isoetes  lacustris,  Pteris 
crispa,  Asplenium  viride.  Polypodium  Phegopteris,  P.  rhseticum,  Cyathea 
fragilis,  and  Solidago  var.  y,  upon  the  mountains  near;  Juniperus,  upon 
the  neighbouring  rocks. 

From  Llanberis  to  Capel  Curig  is  a  curious  and  romantic  pass,  3  m. 
in  length,  and  in  some  places  not  more  than  50  or  60  yards  wide,  called 
Cwm-Glds,  or  the  Blue  Vale.  The  rocks  on  each  side  are  of  a  stupendous 
height,  in  some  places  nearly  perpendicular,  and  in  others  overhanging 
their  bases  many  yards.  About  S  m.  from  Llanberis  is  a  detached  fragment 
far  larger  than  Bowdar  stone  in  Borrowdale ;  probably  it  was  precipitated 
from  the  impending  heights  above.  Under  it  is  a  large  cavity,  wherein  a 
poor  woman  summered  many  years  to  tend  her  sheep  and  cows  ;  hence  the 
place  is  called  Ynys  Hettws,  Hetty’s  Island.”  The  highest  part  of  this 
gradually  ascending  road  is  called  Gorphwysfa,  or  the  Resting  Place. 
Through  this  tremendous  glen,  which  extends  4  m.,  an  alpine  torrent, 
issuing  from  the  lakes  above  foams  and  roars  over  huge  masses  of  rock. 
(See  a  description  of  this  pass  under  Capel  Curig.) 

EXCURSION  TO  SNOWDON. 

BY  THE  REV.  W.  BIXGLEY, 

In  this  excursion  I  proceeded  about  a  mile  beyond  Llanberis,  and  crossing 
the  brook  which  runs  into  the  pool,  ascended  the  steep  high  mountains  on  the 
r.  We  arrived  at  the  first  range  of  rocks  which  overlook  the  vale  I  had  left. 
In  a  hollow  on  these  mountains,  I  came  to  a  pool  called  Ffynnon-frec,  the 
Spotted  Well.”  Here  I  found  Subularia  aquatica,  Isoetes  lacustris,  and  Lobe¬ 
lia  Dortmanna,  growing  in  such  abundance  as  almost  to  cover  the  bottom. 
Hence  I  continued  my  journey  up  another  steep,  and  from  its  top  saw  two  other 
pools  in  a  vale  at  a  great  depth  below,  CdlleiiLlynLlwydaw,  “■  the  Dusky  Pool,” 
and  the  other,  much  smaller,  Llyn-y-Cwm  Glds,  ‘^^the  Blue  Pool  in  the 


LLANBERIS. 


329 

Hollow:”  the  former  has  in  it  a  small  islan(l_,  the  haunt  of  black  backed-gulls^ 
during  their  breeding  season.  I  did  not  descend^  as  there  seemed  nothing  about 
them  likely  to  repay  me  for  the  trouble^  but  proceeded  onward  for  about  1 J 
m.  along  the  sloping  sides  of  the  mountain s^  till  I  came  to  a  hollow  called 
Bwlch  Glds,  whence  I  ascended^  once  again,  to  the  summit  of  the  monarch 
of  the  British  Alps.  From  the  top  of  the  first  mountains,  after  leaving 
Llanheris,  till  I  came  within  sight  of  Llyn  Llwydaw,  the  scenery  all  the 
way  was  awfully  rude.  It  was  one  continued  series  of  rocks,  infinitely 
varied  in  their  form.  The  nimble-footed  sheep,  which  broused  on  their 
dark  sides,  and  skipped  along  their  tremendous  precipices,  looked  down 
upon  us  with  the  utmost  composure.  In  some  places  the  rocks,  overhang¬ 
ing  the  paths,  seemed  ready  to  start  from  their  beds,  frowning  destruction 
to  the  traveller  who  had  dared  to  intersect  their  gloomy  shade.  The  latter 
part  of  this  excursion  along  the  sides  of  mountains,  was  rather  unpleasant. 
The  stones  which  I  had  to  traverse  for  above  a  mile  were  so  small  and  loose 
as  at  every  step  to  give  way,  rendering  the  walking  not  only  tiresome,  but 
sometimes  very  dangerous.  The  scenery,  though  wild,  was  uninteresting. 
The  hollow  beneath,  hemmed  in  by  the  gloomy  mountains  around,  was  from 
some  points  of  view  rather  grand,  but  this  fell  far  short  of  what  I  had  passed. 
The  light  clouds  swept  briskly  over  the  mountains,  sometimes  entirely  ob¬ 
scuring  them,  and  at  others  showing  their  serrated  tops  visible  through  the 
thinness  of  the  mist.  Among  the  higher  rocks  I  observed  the  black  Ouzel, 
Turdus  torquatus,  of  Linnaeus,  not  unusually  an  inhabitant  of  these  alpine 
regions.  I  descended  from  Snowdon  at  this  time  along  what  may  be  deno¬ 
minated  a  mountain  staircase,  which  lies  down  the  rocks  immediately  over 
the  village  of  Llanberis.  This  road  was  altogether  so  very  steep  and  tire¬ 
some,  that  I  should  at  any  time  prefer  going  a  few  miles  round  to 
venturing  down  it  again. 

In  the  course  of  our  ascent,  saw  on  our  1.  above  the  cwm,  Moel-y-Cyng- 
horion,  or  the  Hill  of  Counsel.”  Passed  through  Bwlch-y-Maes  Cwm, 
and  skirted  the  side  of  Snowdon,  till  we  reached  Bwlch-y-Cwm  Brwynog, 
where  the  ascent  becomes  difficult  on  account  of  its  steepness.  We  began 
a  toilsome  march,  clambering  among  the  rocks.  On  the  1.  were  the  precipices 
over  Cwm  Brwynog,  with  Llyn-du-yr-Arddwy  at  their  feet.  On  our  r. 
were  those  over  the  small  lakes  Llyn-glas,  Llyn-y-Nadroedd,  and  Llyn-Coch. 
The  last  is  the  highest  upon  this  side  the  mountain.  This  space  between 
precipice  and  precipice  formed  a  shoot,  and  no  very  agreeable  isthmus,  till 
we  reached  a  vast  expanse,  which  gave  us  some  respite,  before  we  laboured 
up  another  series  of  broken  crags  ;  after  these  is  a  second  smooth  tract, 
which  reaches  almost  to  Y-Wyddfa,  or  the  summit.  Caernarvon  is  7  m. 
distant  from  the  little  public-house  of  the  guide  ;  for  a  description  of  what 
is  remarkable  on  the  road,  see  Beddgelart. 

On  Clogwyn-y-Garnedd  are  the  following  plants  : — Anthericum  seroti- 
num,  Serratula  alpina,  Cerastium  alpinum,  C.  latifolium,  Saxifraga  stellaris, 
S.  nivalis,  S.  oppositifolium.  Lychnis  alpina,  Cyathea  fragilis  /3,  Asplenium 
septentrionale,  Pteris  crispa,  Papaver  cambricum.  Ranunculus  acris,  Phascum 
montanum,  Viola  alpina,  Geum  rivale,  Dryas  octopetala,  Saxifraga  aizoides, 
Juniperus  communis,  and  var.  /3,  Poa  csesia,  Festuca  rubra,  Arenaria  verna, 
Cochlearia  officinalis,  Asplenium  viride,  Rumex  digynus,  Thalictrum  alpi¬ 
num  ;  in  clefts  in  the  higher  parts,  Aspidium  Lonchitis  ;  upon  a  moist  black 
rock,  almost  at  the  top,  facing  the  n.w.  above  the  lower  lake.  Polypodium 
arvonicum.  On  Clogwyn  du  yr  Arddu,  Arabis  hispida,  A.  hispida  /3, 
Rubus  saxatilis,  Saxifraga  nivalis,  Cerastium  alpinum.  Near  Cwm  Brwy¬ 
nog,  in  a  boggy  flat,  Juncus  squarrosus,  Scirpus  csespitosus,  Schoenus  nigri- 


330 


LLANBERIS. 


canSj  Agrostis  vulgans_,  Poa  alpina,  and  Hieracium  alpinum.  On  the  n. 
side  of  Yr  wyddfa,  Cerastium  alpinum.  On  moist  rocks^  Cochlearia  offi¬ 
cinalis^  /3.  On  the  highest  rocks^  Salix  herbacea.  In  various  parts^  Ly¬ 
copodium  selago_,  Pteris  crispa. 

See  a  description  of  the  ascent  to  the  summit  of  Snowdon  from  Dolba- 
darn  Castle,,  under  Caernarvon  ;  also  the  article  Snowdonia. 

The  walk  from  Llanberis  to  Caernarvon  is  more  pleasing  than  the 
mountain  prospects  the  other  way.  From  all  the  eminences  appears  an 
extensive  view  of  Anglesea  towards  Beaumaris  and  Priestholme,,  and  to  the 
left,,  the  fine  old  castle  of  Caernarvon.  In  pursuing  this  road  to  Caer¬ 
narvon  on  the  side  of  the  lake^  the  copper-mine  before  mentioned  might  be 
visited. 

The  upper  and  lower  lakes  are  separated  by  a  bold  rocky  promontory,  on 
which  are  seated  the  ruins  of  Dolbadarn  Castle ;  at  its  foot  flows  the  river, 
which,  rising  in  the  upper  end  of  Llanberis  Vale,  passes  through  the  lakes, 
and  falls  into  the  Menai  at  Caernarvon.  Upon  the  hills  opposite  the 
castle  are  considerable  quarries  of  a  moderately  fine  purple  slate,  which  is 
sent  to  Caernarvon,  and  thence  exported.  Though  the  immediate  banks  of 
the  lower  lake  be  quitted  to  continue  along  the  road,  yet  the  traveller  passes 
within  sight  of  it  for  two  or  three  miles  further. 

Somewhat  short  of  m.  from  Dolbadarn  Castle,  close  by  the  horsepath 
leading  to  Caernarvon,  is  a  very  old  farmhouse  called  Ty  Du,  ‘‘  the  Black 
House,’’  formerly  the  property  of  Dr.  Goodman,  who  was  Bishop  of  Glou¬ 
cester  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  Since  this  time  the  house  was  the  resi¬ 
dence  of  Foulke  Jones,  a  singular  character,  noted  for  uncommon  strength, 
who  died  about  the  year  179<^^  aged  57. 

Upon  the  declivity  of  the  mountain,  on  the  e.  side  of  the  lakes,  de¬ 
nominated  AUt-Dhu,  or  the  Dark  Cliff,  is  a  large  slate-quarry,  situated 
high  among  the  rocks.  The  mode  of  conveying  down  the  slates  to  the 
margin  of  the  lakes  is  singularly  awkward.  The  cart,  which  carries  about 
one  ton  of  slates  in  winter  and  two  in  summer,  is  drawn  down  a  serpentine 
path  by  one  horse  in  front ;  a  loaded  sledge  fastened  to  the  tail  of  the  cart, 
checks  its  propensity  to  accelerated  motion.  The  slates  are  taken  from  the 
margin  of  the  lake  to  the  end  of  the  lower  one,  whence  they  are  con¬ 
veyed  by  carts  to  Caernarvon,  where  they  are  shipped  to  Ireland  and 
coastwise. 

Reaching  the  summit  of  a  hill,  whence  the  road  begins  to  descend  toward 
the  Menai,  a  noble  and  extensive  view  suddenly  opens.  Before  us,  in  the 
distance,  appears  the  Isle  of  Anglesea ;  to  the  n.  stretches  the  fine  bay  of 
Beaumaris,  with  vessels  at  anchor  under  Priestholme  island,  from  a  pro¬ 
jecting  rock  at  the  furthest  point  of  the  bay  :  at  the  s.  extremity  of  this 
island  we  may  observe  the  broad  opening  of  the  Menai  from  the  main  sea 
and  the  huge  castle  of  Caernarvon  guarding  the  entrance  into  the  strait. 
The  island  itself  is  flat,  but  some  hills  rise  in  the  centre  and  at  each  ex¬ 
tremity  ;  we  may  notice  a  peculiarly  striking  chain  of  mountains  to  the 
s.  of  Caernarvon,  appearing  to  be  near  Traetli  Mawr.  In  the  course  of  our 
descent  where  the  rocks  end,  we  arrive  at  a  plain  of  considerable  dimensions, 
covered  with  large  boulders  or  rounded  fragments.  To  a  geologist,  this 
plain  is  very  interesting ;  the  form  of  the  stones,  which  are  of  the  same 
kind  as  those  which  compose  the  various  rocks  of  Snowdon  and  its  vicinity, 
suggests  the  idea  of  aqueous  debacle  ;  especially  as  the  descent  is  towards 
the  sea,  and  the  plain  itself  not  more  than  4  or  5  m.  distant.  The  size  alone 
of  the  stones  forbids  the  supposition  of  their  having  been  carried  to  their 
present  situation  by  the  agency  of  man,  and  they  are  too  far  from  the  moun- 


LLANDAFF. 


331 


tains  to  have  rolled  dov/n  into  the  plain  where  they  now  lie.  Further_, 
the  soil  of  the  plain  is  like  other  alluvial  depositions,  namely,  gravel,  sand,  or 
shingle.  These  appearances  continue  as  we  approach  Caernarvon,  except 
that  the  masses  of  stone  are  smaller  and  less  frequent,  and  the  sand  and 
gravel  become  more  plentiful. 

Upon  most  heaths  between  Llanberis  and  Caernaervon,  grows  the  Blech- 
num  boreale. 


To  Caernarvon,  10  miles.  Aikin  ;  Bingley ; 
Warner  ;  Gilpin  ;  Pugh. 

Snowdon,  by  the  lower  contiguous  mountains. 
Evans. 


Over  Snowdon  to  Beddgelart,  16  miles.  Pennant. 
To  Dolbadarn  Castle,  2  miles.  Pennant. 

Capel  Curig,  8  miles.  Hutton. 


LLANDAFF. 

From  Cardiff,  2  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Skrine ;  Barber  ;  Donovan  ;  Evans  ;  Manby. 

LLANDAFF,  i.e.  ‘^‘^the  Church  upon  the  Taf,”  situated  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  estuary  of  the  Severn,  in  Glamorganshire,  though  an  episcopal 
city,  is  at  present,  in  appearance,  only  an  inconsiderable  village,  upon  an 
easy  eminence.  This  place  is  in  the  cwmwd  of  Cibwyr,  cantref  of  Bren- 
hinol  (now  called  the  hundred  of  Kibber),  a  vicarage  not  in  charge ;  the 
Chapter  of  LlandafF,  patron.  The  population  of  this  parish,  in  1831,  in¬ 
cluding  the  hamlets  of  Canton,  Elay,  Fairwater,  Gabalfa,  and  LlandafF, 
was  1299*  1803,  the  amount  collected  by  the  parish  rates  was 

621L  4,9.  9\d.  at  106“.  in  the  pound.  It  has  no  market,  and,  a  few  chandlers’ 
shops  excepted,  is  dependent  on  Cardiff.  The  Fairs  are  on  Feb.  Q.j  and 
on  Whit  Monday,  when  great  numbers  of  cattle  are  sold.  It  is  famous 
for  its  vegetables.  This  parish  contains  2399  acres  of  land.  A  church  is 
said  to  have  existed  here  from  the  first  introduction  of  Christianity  into 
Britain:  but  LlandafF  did  not  rise  to  the  jurisdiction  of  a  bishopric  till 
about  the  beginning  of  the  fifth  century.  Its  first  bishops  were  Dyfrig  or 
Dubricius,  Teilo,  and  Oudoceus,  who  were  all  canonised.  Meyrig,  King 
of  Glamorgan  and  the  whole  of  the  Silures,  founded  this  episcopal  seat,  in 
the  middle  of  the  fifth  century,  and  endowed  it  with  all  the  lands  between 
the  rivers  TafF  and  Elwy.  The  ancient  church  was  liberally  endowed, 
but  suffered  great  deprivations  at  the  time  of  the  conquest,  when  it  was 
destroyed.  The  present  cathedral  was  built  by  Bishop  Urban  in  the  year 
1107.  Its  situation  is  in  a  bottom,  awful  and  monastic,  surrounded  by 
rising  grounds.  Its  admeasurement,  according  to  Grose,  is  263i  feet 
long  from  e.  to  w.  ;  from  the  w.  door  to  the  choir  110  ft.,  from  the 
entrance  into  the  choir  from  the  altar  75  ft.,  and  thence  to  the  Vir¬ 
gin  Mary’s  chapel  65  ft. ;  the  breadth  of  the  body  65  ft.,  and  the 
height  from  the  floor  to  the  centre  of  the  roof  II9  ft.  There  is  no 
cross  aisle  to  this  cathedral,  nor  any  middle  tower  or  steeple,  as  there 
are  to  all  others  in  England  and  Wales,  except  Bangor  and  Exeter. 
The  w.  front  of  the  cathedral  is  an  admirable  relic  of  Norman  and  Gothic 
architecture  united,  with  a  lofty  square  window  at  the  n.  w.  angle,  of 
extraordinary  height,  profusely  enriched  with  the  best  sculpture  of  the 
age  in  W’^hich  it  was  built.  The  tower,  which  occupied  the  corresponding 
angle  on  the  s.  w.,  is  nearly  dilapidated.  The  window  of  this  front  is  of 
fine  lancet  work,  above  which  is  the  statue  of  Henry  I. ;  and  over  the 
finely  arched  entrance,  another,  said  to  be  that  of  Dubricius.  The  northern 
tower  was  built  by  Jasper,  created  Duke  of  Bedford,  a.  d.  1485.  In  the 
w.  end  of  the  n.  aisle  are  several  ancient  and  curious  monuments.  A  flat 


332 


LLANDAFF. 


stone,  the  inscription  obliterated,  is  first  apparent.  Another  emblematic  of 
episcopal  dignity.  Two  effigies  upon  a  raised  pedestal  record  the  memories 
of  St.  Dubricius  and  Bishop  Brumfield.  Above  this  tomb  is  a  sculpture 
in  relievo,  affixed  to  the  wall.  In  a  Gothic  niche  opposite  is  the  effigy  of 
Bishop  Davies,  who  founded  a  library  here.  Beyond  this  is  the  figure  of 
an  emaciated  female  form  in  her  winding  sheet,  designed  to  perpetuate  the 
memory  of  an  unfortunate  person  who  fell  a  victim  to  disappointed  love. 
On  the  same  side  is  represented  an  armed  knight,  his  head  resting  upon  an 
helmet,  in  alabaster,  commemorating  Christopher  Matthews,  who  was 
6  ft.  2  in.  high,  distinguished  himself  by  valorous  acts,  and  fell  in  the  civil 
wars.  In  a  recess  opposite  are  two  figures  supposed  to  represent  David 
Matthews  and  his  wife.  Passing  through  a  small  chapel  at  the  e.  end, 
divided  by  the  altar  of  the  choir,  are  deposited  the  remains  of  John  Bishop 
of  Monmouth,  nominated  to  this  see  March,  1294. 

At  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the  s.  aisle  is  a  monument  to  Christiana  Audley, 
distinguished  by  her  bequests  of  the  great  and  little  Heaths  to  the  poor  of 
Llandaff,  Roach,  and  Whitechurch,  and  by  an  active  and  valuable  life. 
Beyond  lie  Bishop  Pascal,  who  died  Oct.  11.  136l,  at  his  episcopal  palace, 
atBishton;  and  William  de  Breuse,  consecrated  1265,  and  died  March 
19*  1286-7  following. 

The  principal  monuments  were  destroyed  with  the  bishop’s  palace,  and 
houses  of  the  clergy,  by  the  ferocious  chieftain,  Owain  Glyndwr.  The  inte¬ 
rior  of  the  Chapter  House,  somewhat  resembling  that  of  Margam  Abbey, 
is  entitled  to  particular  observation.  John  Marshall,  elected  bishop  in 
1478,  decorated  the  cathedral  with  a  new  altar-piece  of  freestone.  The 
last  alterations  took  place  about  1751,  at  the  expense  of  7000/.  The  w. 
end  of  this  structure  now  forms  the  chief  entrance  to  a  Grecian  temple  ob¬ 
truded  within  the  walls  of  a  solemn  Gothic  cathedral.  ‘^‘^On  the  chancel 
falling  to  decay,”  says  Mr.  Barber,  a  great  sum  was  expended  in  raising 
the  present  church  upon  the  old  stock  ;  but  surely  such  an  absence  of  taste 
and  common  sense  was  never  before  instanced.  Beneath  the  solemn  towers 
has  been  ingrafted  an  Italian  fantastic  summer-house  elevation,  with  a 
Venetian  window,  Ionic  pilasters,  and  fiower-pot  jars  upon  the  parapet. 
The  same  sort  of  window  is  coupled  with  the  elegant  line  of  the  orna¬ 
mented  Gothic,  in  other  parts  of  the  structure,  and  within,  a  huge  build¬ 
ing  upon  the  model  of  a  heathen  temple,  surrounds  the  altar ;  which, 
with  two  thrones,  darken  and  fill  up  nearly  half  of  the  church.”  The  dio¬ 
cese  is  governed  by  a  bishop,  who  is  also  dean ;  the  archdeacon,  who  is 
sub-dean,  chancellor,  precentor,  and  9  prebendaries,  and  2  vicars  choral. 
The  choral  service  has,  however,  been  some  years  discontinued,  and  the 
revenue  applied  to  other  purposes.  Near  the  cathedral  stood  the  Bishop’s 
Palace,  the  gate-house  of  which,  and  a  ruined  tower,  where  formerly  hung 
the  great  bell  called  Peter,  now  at  Exeter,  are  the  sole  remains  of  these 
adjuncts  which,  with  the  outer  walls  of  the  cathedral,  form  an  enclosure  to 
a  garden. 

They  have  a  new  chapter-room,  with  kitchen  and  an  office  for  the  proc¬ 
tor  general,  in  the  churchyard,  but  seldom  meet  more  than  once  a  year,  at 
Peter’s  tide,  for  the  audit. 

The  Castle  was  demolished  by  Owain  Glyndwr,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  IV. 

Back  to  Cardiff.  Donovan  ;  Barber.  To  Merthyr  Tydvil,  by  way  of  Pont  y-Prydd,  22 

To  Cowbridge,  11^  miles.  Wyndham  j  Skrine ;  miles,  flvans  j  Manby.  ’ 

Donovan. 


S33 


LLANDEGAI. 

From  Aber,  3^  miles.  Bingley.  |  From  Port  Penrhyn,  2  miles.  Pennant. 

LLANDEGAI  is  a  parish  in  the  hundred  of  Llechwedd-Uchav  and 
county  of  Caernarvon.  It  extends  15  m.  from  Menai  Strait_,  far  into 
the  mountain  fastnesses  of  Snowdon,  and  includes  an  extensive  region  of 
N.  Wales,  abounding  with  almost  every  variety  of  mineral  production.  The 
scenery  of  the  neighbourhood  is  beautifully  picturesque,  and  impressively 
grand,  comprehending  on  one  side  a  vast  amphitheatre  of  mountains,  and  on 
the  other  a  fine  view  of  Menai  Strait. 

The  village  of  Llandegai^  once  called  Maes  Llanglasawg,  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  turbulent  little  river,  Ogwen.  Here  is  a  neat  cruciform 
church,  having  a  tower  in  the  centre  ;  the  style  is  completely  Gothic,  about 
the  age  of  Edward  III.  The  first  foundation  of  this  structure  is  said  to  have 
been  laid  by  St.  Tegai  ab  Ithel  Hael,  about  the  6th  century.  Tradition 
adds,  that  he  was  buried  in  his  own  churchyard.  Upon  his  sup¬ 
posed  grave  there  once  stood  a  stone  cross ;  this  was  broken,  but  the 
remaining  portion  of  the  column  was  removed,  and  converted  into  the 
pillar  of  a  sun-dial,  which  office  it  still  sustains.  In  the  place  where  this 
pillar  stood,  a  coffin  was  found,  composed  of  different  stones,  joined  together. 
It  was  taken  up  and  placed  in  the  wall  of  the  churchyard  porch.  This 
parish  is  15  m.  in  length,  and  averages  about  1§  m.  in  width.  It  is  entirely 
the  property  of  the  Penrhyn  familyc 

The  family  of  Gryffydd  removed  the  memorials  of  their  ancestors  from 
the  monastery  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Beaumaris  to  this  church.  Dr. 
Williams,  archbishop  of  York,  who  lived  in  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  and  died 
March  25.  l650,  was  interred  here.  A  mural  monument  represents  him 
in  episcopal  robes  kneeling  at  an  altar. 

“  How  poor  the  lot  of  the  once  honour’d  dead  ; 

Perhaps  the  dust  is  Williams’  that  we  tread. 

The  learn’d,  ambitious,  politic,  and  great. 

Statesman  and  prelate,  this,  alas  !  thy  fate. 

Could  not  thy  Lincoln  yield  her  pastor  room. 

Could  not  thy  York  supply  thee  with  a  tomb  ? 

Was  it  for  this  thy  lofty  genius  soar’d. 

Caress’d  by  monarchs  and  by  crowns  ador’d  ? 

For  this,  thy  hand  o’er  rivals  could  prevail, 

Grasping  by  turns  the  crosier  and  the  seal  ?* 

Who  dar’d  on  Laud’s  meridian  pow’r  to  frown. 

And  on  aspiring  Buckingham  look  down. 

This  thy  gay  morn  ;  but  ere  the  day’s  decline 
Clouds  gather  and  adversity  is  thine  : 

Doom’d  to  behold  thy  country’s  fierce  alarms 
What  had  thy  trembling  age  to  do  with  arms  ? 

Thy  lands  dragoon’d,  thy  palaces  in  dust,  — 

Why  was  thy  life  protracted  to  be  curst  ? 

Thy  king  in  chains,  thyself  by  lawless  might 
Stripp’d  of  all  power,  and  exiled  from  thy  right. 

Awhile  the  venerable  hero  stood. 

And  stemm’d  with  quiv’ring  limbs  the  boist’rous  flood  ; 

At  length,  o’ermatch’d  by  injuries  and  time. 

Stole  from  the  world  and  sought  his  native  clime.” 

Cambria  for  him  with  moans  her  region  fills : 

She  wept  his  downfall  from  a  thousand  hills  : 

*  He  was  made  Lord  Keeper  of  the  Great  Seal,  July  20. 1621. 


334 


LLANDEGAI. 


Tender  embrac’d  her  prelate,  tho’  undone, 

Stretch’d  out  the  mother  rocks  to  hide  her  son : 

Search’d  while  alive  each  vale  for  his  repast. 

And  when  he  died,  received  him  in  her  breast. 

Envied  Ambition  !  what  are  all  thy  schemes, 

But  waking  misery  or  pleasing  dreams.  Dr.  Davis. 

On  the  s.  side  of  the  altar  in  this  church  is  another  more  ancient  tomh  of 
alabaster,  upon  which  lie  the  effigies  of  a  knight  in  armour,  and  his  lady.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  brought  hither  from  Llanfaes  Friary  in  Anglesea  at  the 
time  of  the  dissolution  of  religious  houses.  There  is  another  such  tomb  at 
Penmynydd  Church,  in  Anglesea,  said  to  have  been  removed  thither  from 
the  same  place.  Mr.  William  Williams,  of  Llandegai,  who  wrote  Observ¬ 
ations  on  the  Snowdonian  Mountains,  conjectures  that  the  first  represents 
persons  of  the  Penrhyn  family,  and  the  latter  the  Tudors  of  Penmynydd. 
Here  is  also  a  splendid  and  much  admired  memorial  of  the  late  Lord  and 
Lady  Penrhyn,  finely  executed  by  Westmacott.  From  this  place  the 
line  of  the  mountains  curves,  and  sloping  to  the  shore,  in  the  milder  fea¬ 
tures  of  fertility,  terminates  abruptly  in  the  promontory  of  Llandudno. 

On  the  way  from  Llandegai  to  Nant-Francon,  passing  over  the  Ogwen 
at  Tal-y-hont,  make  a  digression  of  about  |  m.  from  the  road  to Llanllechid, 
midway  from  Llandegai.  This  parish  is  said  to  he  the  largest  in  Caernar¬ 
vonshire  ;  its  medium  admeasurement  may  be  3^  m.,  in  breadth,  and  8  in 
length.  At  least  4000  acres  of  it  are  common,  to  which  every  parishioner 
has  an  unlimited  right  of  pasturage.  The  church  was  originally  built  by 
Llechid,  daughter  of  Ithel  Hael,  a  nobleman  of  France.  She  was  sister  to 
Saint  Tegai.  About  1  m.  w.  of  the  church,  stand  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
mansion  called  Cochwillan,m\xch  celebrated  by  the  bards  for  hospitality,  the 
ancient  abode  of  Archbishop  Williams’s  ancestors.  It  has  been  converted  into 
a  barn  ;  the  hall  only  remains,  which  has  a  carved  cornice  ;  some  ornamented 
ribs  support  the  roof.  A  little  way  s.  e.  of  Llanllechid  church,  is  a  hill 
called  Mod  Fahan,  upon  the  top  of  which  are  some  large  heaps  of  stones, 
apparently  once  used  for  building  ;  this  accumulation  may  probably  have 
formed  a  watch  tower  of  Fabius,  or  Fabianus.  On  the  s.  e.  of  this  hill  are 
some  remains  of  buildings  and  enclosures.  At  the  n.  end  is  a  hollow,  or 
chasm  called  Bwlch  Llanyrchyn,  and  by  some  Fos-Rhufeiniaid,  i.  e.  the 
Roman  foss.  It  is  about  200  yards  in  length,  30  in  breadth  at  the  top, 
and  about  10  yards  deep.  Moelwnnion,  the  Fairies’  Hill,”  is  supposed  to 
contain  lead,  or  other  ore.  Yr-Ariyg  is  a  shivered  rock,  from  ar  andr/??/^, 
i.  e.  ploughed  land  for  rye.”  On  the  s.  w.  side  there  are  some  indications 
of  arable  land.  The  bottom  of  Cwm  Caseg  extends  to  the  base  of  Carnedd 
Llywelyn  and  the  Elen.  Among  the  surrounding  Hills,  but  chiefly  from  a 
small  pool  at  the  junction  of  Carnedd  Llywelyn  and  the  Elen,  is  formed 
Afon  Gaseg,  ‘‘‘  the  Mare’s  River,”  which  falls  into  the  Ogwen  at  Pant-y- 
ffrydlas.  The  pasture  in  this  hollow  is  abundant  and  rich,  being  well 
sheltered  from  the  n.  and  e.  winds.  Upon  the  declivities  facing  the  s.  are 
vestiges  of  buildings  and  remains  of  stone  walls.  To  the  s.  side  of  the 
Elen  and  the  Carnedd  Llywelyn,  branches  Cwm  Pen  Llafar,  out  of  which 
issues  the  Llafar,  which  forms  a  confluence  with  the  Caseg  at  Gwaun-y- 
Gwial.  This  vale  is  well  sheltered  and  produces  excellent  summer  pasture. 
Coetmor  formerly  laid  an  exclusive  claim  to  its  pasturage  which  the  tenants 
of  Penrhyn  did  not  allow. 

Upon  the  summit  of  Moelycci  or  Moel-y-Cri,  is  a  great  heap  of  stones. 
Cri  means  cry,  or  a  great  shout.  Dinas  Dinlle,  Dinas  Dinorddwig,  Moelycci, 
and  Penmaenmawr,  all  garrisoned  places,  lie  nearly  in  a  line  and  in  sight 


LLANDEGAI. 


335 


of  each  other.  Some  think  that  its  real  name  is  Moel-y-ci,  the  Dog’s  tlill.” 
Verdure  is  seen  upon  it  throughout  the  year_,  and  it  is  reckoned  an  excellent 
sheep  pasture. 

In  the  way  to  Nant-Francon^  among  the  gravel  by  the  side  of  the  second 
rivulet,  grov/s  Galium  boreale  ;  near  the  road,  Papaver  cambricum. 

Nant-Francon  seems  to  be  a  corruption  of  Nan t-yr- Avan c,  the 
Beaver’s  Hollow,”  from  an  opinion  that  the  Ogwen,  which  flows  through  the 
vale,  was  frequented  by  that  animal.  The  existence  of  beavers  anciently 
in  W ales  is  confirmed  by  the  laws  of  Hy wel  Dda,  which  fix  the  price  of 
the  skin  of  the  Llostlydan,  or  broad-tailed  animal,’"’  at  120  pence. 
We  have  the  authority  of  Giraldus  Cambrensis,  that  it  found  a  habitat  in 
the  river  Teifi  in  his  time.  This  animal  has  been  seen  in  Nant-Francon 
in  the  memory  of  man.  (See  Owens  Welsh  and  English  Dictionary,  voce 
Avanc.) 

There  was  once  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  Nant-Francon,  but  the  spot  is 
not  precisely  known.  There  is  a  hill  called  Dinas,  above  Coed-mawr  Mill, 
where  it  probably  stood.  Some  of  the  foundation  walls  of  such  a  building 
may  still  be  seen,  though  a  considerable  part  has  been  removed  for  the 
purposes  of  erecting  both  habitations  and  fences.  The  Ogwen  foams  at 
the  base,  and  there  is  no  approach  to  this  hillock  but  on  the  w.  side  of  some 
mountains  towards  the  upper  part  of  a  tremendous  vale,  or  rather  chasm  ; 
these  approach  so  nearly  that  they  strongly  attract  the  clouds,  which  pre¬ 
cipitate  around  the  summits,  and  frequently  deluge  the  plains  below. 

So  certain  a  prognostic  of  approaching  wet  weather,”  says  Mr.  R.  Lloyd, 

is  rain  in  Nant-Francon  deemed  in  Anglesea,  that  the  islanders 
humorously  call  it  the  devil’s  kitchen.’  ” 

Below  Blaen-y-Nant,  are  some  ancient  steps  placed  to  cross  the  river 
called  Sarn-yr- Avanc.  Tradition  says  this  vale  was  inherited  by  a  person 
named  Adam  Francon ;  and  that  the  soldier  who  killed  Llywelyn  ap 
GryfFydd  was  called  Adam  de  Francton.  Probably  its  ancient  name  was 
Maes  Caradog,  i.  e.  Caradog’s  Plain,  a  farm  still  so  named  being  situated 
about  the  centre  of  it. 

The  Ogwen  is  a  rapid  river,  rugged  with  black  rocks  which  have  fallen 
from  the  adjacent  declivities  :  in  dry  seasons  it  is  shallow  and  fordable,  but 
during  heavy  rains  it  pours  forth  an  immense  body  of  water.  Proceeding 
in  the  direction  of  the  road,  the  country  appears  more  sterile  and  inhospit¬ 
able.  Near  abridge  of  one  arch,  thrown  over  the  Ogwen,  are  the  remains 
of  a  copper  mine,  which  never  repaid  the  labour  bestowed  upon  it.  A 
little  way  on  the  other  side  of  the  Ogwen,  is  a  seat  of  the  ancient  family  of 
the  Pughs  of  Coed-mawr;  staunch  Romanists  at  the  time  of  the  Reformation. 
Here  the  woods  skirt  pleasingly  to  the  edge  of  the  river,  which  at  this  place 
is  joined  by  another  called,  from  its  impetuosity,  Avon-gaseg,  the  Mare’s 
River.”  It  dashes  with  great  precipitation  from  the  summit  of  a  high 
mountain,  and  in  season  of  much  rain,  the  rapidity  is  prodigious ;  the 
whole  forming  an  entire  sheet  of  white  foam,  and  becomes  visible  to  the 
naked  eye  at  the  distance  of  15  miles. 

Recrossing  the  Ogwen,  reach  a  small  Inn  called  the  Hall. 

The  Slate  Quarry  of  Llandegai,  and  the  surrounding  mountains  rank 
highly  among  the  wonders  of  the  British  Alps.  It  is  situated  on  the  r. 
at  the  entrance  of  the  great  chasm,  on  the  sloping  of  a  conic  mountain  and 
near  its  base. 

It  was  in  the  year  1782  that  Lord  Penrhyn  began  to  open  a  spacious 
quarry.  Instead  of  80  hands  as  formerly,  he  now  employed  600.  But 
owing  to  the  war  with  France,  and  an  impost  of  20  per  cent,  laid  by  govern¬ 
ment  upon  slate  carried  coastwise,  which  checked  a  spirit  for  building ;  in 


LLANDEGAI. 


336 

1798  not  more  than  120  persons  were  employed.  Lord  Penrhyn^  some  years 
previous  to  his  deaths  which  happened  in  Jan.  1808^  had  made  great  im¬ 
provements  in  and  about  those  works,  and  new  kinds  of  slates  were  intro¬ 
duced,  called  Queens,  Duchesses,  Patents,  &c. 

The  rude  slate  from  the  mines  is  first  reduced  to  shape  and  size  by  a 
small  edged  tool,  similar  to  a  plasterer’s  hatchet,  slate  being  previously 
laid  upon  the  edge  of  an  iron  plate,  fixed  vertically.  It  is  then  taken  to 
the  scraper,  who,  with  a  small  piece  of  thin  steel,  takes  off  the  imperfect 
laminae,  and  reduces  the  surface  to  a  level ;  they  are  afterwards  framed  and 
piled  up  in  grosses,  for  exportation  or  sale.  The  slates  were  long  conveyed 
to  the  port,  by  means  of  carts,  at  a  very  heavy  expense.  But  afterwards 
an  iron  tramroad  was  formed,  which  extends  from  the  quarry,  and  round 
the  quay  at  Port  Penhryn,  6  m.  On  this  line  are  four  double  inclined 
planes.  The  wheels  of  the  waggons  are  concave,  which  run  upon  a  narrow 
convex  bar.  Six  or  eight  horses  now  perform  the  work  which  required 
more  than  eighty.  Among  many  improvements  may  be  reckoned  a  sawing- 
mill,  which  converts  large  fragments  of  slate  rock  into  slabs  for  hearth¬ 
stones,  mantelpieces,  sepulchral  monuments,  fence-railing,  &c. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Penrhyn,  upon  the  stream  of  the  Ogwen,  is  a  curious 
mill  for  the  purpose  of  grinding  petrosilex,  or  chertz,  quartz,  and  flints,  for 
the  use  of  the  porcelain  and  delph-ware  potteries.  The  chertz  and  quartz, 
are  obtained  from  the  base  of  Carnedd  Llywelyn,  in  the  parish  of  Llan- 
llechid,  and  the  flints  are  brought  as  ballast  in  the  ships  which  take  slates 
to  Ireland.  An  ore  of  manganese  is  also  here  prepared  for  bleaching,  and 
an  ore  of  zinc,  as  a  substitute  for  white  lead.  These  are  carried  on  by 
Messrs.  Worthington  and  Co.,  the  former  of  whom  is  principal  agent  for 
Lady  Penrhyn’s  slate  quarries. 

Lord  Penrhyn,  the  late  public-spirited  proprietor,  erected  a  number  of  neat 
slated  cottages,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  labourers  in  the  valley,  and  along 
the  Ogwen.  For  his  lordship’s  occasional  visits  to  this  romantic  spot  a  snug 
summer-box,  called  Ogwen  Bank,  in  the  florid  Gothic  style  of  architecture, 
is  erected  below  the  rocks.  Parties  of  pleasure  visiting  the  quarry  and  moun¬ 
tains,  find  in  this  place  a  pleasant  sequestered  retreat,  Avhere  they  may 
recruit  themselves  with  refreshments.  There  being  no  inn  in  this  district, 
it  is  requisite  to  bring  our  own  beverage,  the  inhabitants  having  little 
besides  oat-bread  and  milk,  to  which  they  will  readily  welcome  you. 

This  neat  pavilion  is  the  Eden  of  the  mountains  ;  the  plantations  which 
screen,  and  the  flowers  which  adorn  it,  are  surprising  and  exemplary  proofs 
of  the  power  of  cultivation,  however  forbidding  the  aspect  of  Nature  ;  it  is 
an  acre  of  Tempe,  among  the  rocks  of  Norway  !  ”  (^Beaumaris  Bay,  370 
Remarking  to  a  neighbouring  farmer  that  this,  and  some  other  instances, 
proved  the  effects  of  cultivation,  which  made  spots  luxuriant,  though  natu¬ 
rally  poor.  ‘^Wery  true.  Sir,”  answered  he,  “^but  a  man  wdio  occupies  a 
farm  as  a  means  of  existence,  cannot  afford  to  cover  the  barren  rock  with 
soil.”  This  brilliant  erection  no  ways  accords  with  the  sterile  scenery 
which  surrounds  it.  At  a  short  distance,  stands  the  appendage  of  a 
farm. 

The  summit  of  the  slate  mountain,  is  termed  Y-Bron,  “abreast,”  a  term 
usually  applied  to  any  prominence  which  does  not  rise  abruptly.  The 
varieties  of  the  face  of  a  country  have  mostly  appellatives  derived  from  parts 
of  the  body  where  any  ideal  conformity  exists.  The  ascent  to  the  apex  in 
the  last  stage  is  steep  and  rugged  ;  to  gain  the  first  swell  of  this  arm  of  the 
mountain  is  no  difficult  task,  and  the  prospect  thence  is  charming  and  ex¬ 
tensive.  The  distance  to  the  highest  point  may  be  2  m.  from  the  quarry, 
but  the  perpendicular  height  cannot  measure  more  than  6OO  or  7OO  yards* 


LLANDEGAI. 


337 

On  the  highest  point  is  a  circular  heap  of  stones,  probably  the  remains  of 
a  watch-tower,  or  beacon. 

A  little  below  the  farm  of  Blaen-y~Naht,  at  the  foot  of  a  high  rock, 
occurs  a  large  body  of  sulphuric  matter.  Before  we  come  to  the  farm  called 
Pentre,  we  pass  the  foot  of  a  hillock,  now  covered  over  with  grass,  which 
once  slipped  from  the  side  of  the  eminence  above,  and  overwhelmed  a 
house  and  family,  where  they  lie  buried.  A  little  below  this  affecting 
mausoleum  is  a  spring  of  water,  sufficient  in  quantity  to  turn  a  mill. 
At  the  entrance  of  Cwm-bual,  above  Maes  Caradog  farm-house,  there  is  a 
slaty  loose  rock,  called  by  the  neighbouring  inhabitants  Craig  Sebon, 
from  its  saponaceous  quality.  Above  this  rock  is  the  aperture,  Cwtter, 
yr  Eurychod,  supposed  to  be  the  work  of  man,  from  Eurych  a  goldsmith, 
or  gold-digger.  Below  the  Soap-rock,  on  a  clear  fair  spot  of  ground,  on 
a  declivity  of  the  hill,  is  a  perforation,  which,  owing  to  its  small  dimen¬ 
sions,  may  be  overlooked  ;  its  depth  was  formerly  unknown  :  some  of  the 
interior  part  has  fallen  in. 

The  ride  along  this  bottom  as  far  as  Llyn  Ogwen,  is  very  solitary,  awful, 
and  magnificent;  the  mountains  on  either  side  rise  rather  abruptly  to  an  asto¬ 
nishing  altitude,  and  their  aspect,  in  many  places,  is  rugged,  bold,  and  terrific. 

This  romantic  and  tremendous  glen  is  destitute  of  wood,  and  even  of 
cultivation,  except  the  narrow  arenaceous  slip  which  lies  along  the  bottom. 
The  fantastic  piles  of  rock  which  compose  the  sides  rise  abruptly  from 
their  base,  and  merge  their  barren  points  into  the  clouds.  The  two  lofty 
mountains  which  attract  observation  on  the  outset  of  the  journey  to  the 
quarry  are  called  Carnedd  Dafydd  and  Carnedd  Llywelyn,  At  the  entrance 
into  this  vast  cavity,  they  are  intercepted  by  an  extended  mountain,  called 
yr-Ala,  probably  from  the  Latin  ala,  a  wing.  The  s.  extremity  of  this 
eminence  is  Benglog,  or  Golgotha,  a  bare,  stupendous,  precipitous  hill, 
which  frowns  over  Llyn  Ogwen.  This  end  of  the  chasm  is  strewed  with 
shattered  fragments,  which,  from  time  to  time,  have  been  hurled  down  the 
declivity.  In  1685,  a  portion  of  rock,  forming  one  of  the  impending  cliffs, 
became  so  undermined  by  wind  and  rain,  that  it  descended  in  several  im¬ 
mense  masses,  and  in  its  passage  down  a  steep  and  craggy  cliff,  dislodged 
a  multitude  of  other  stones.  The  largest  fragment  continued  its  course 
through  a  meadow,  and  rested  on  the  farther  side  of  the  Ogwen,  which 
receives  the  tributary  stream  from  Llyn-Bochlwyd.  The  shores  of  the  latter 
are  rugged  and  the  scenery  inferior.  From  this  spot  a  beautiful  road  is 
formed  down  the  valley,  opposite  the  great  slate  quarries,  across  the  Ogwen 
and  some  deep  dingles  to  the  city  of  Bangor.  The  mountains  of  the  upper 
end  of  this  vale  form  a  scene  of  singular  grandeur ;  on  each  side,  the 
hollow  appears  guarded  by  a  huge  conical  rock,  Trifaen  being  on  the  r.  and 
Braicli-du  on  the  1.  These,  with  Glyder-bach  and  Glyder-fawr,  and  some 
Other  mountains,  fill  up  the  distance,  and  apparently  close  the  vale.  Near 
the  latter  is  found  Lycopodium  annotinum,  reduced  to  a  solitary  root,  and, 
when  last  seen  by  Mr.  W.  Wilson,  without  fructification.  At  the  foot  of 
Glyder  is  a  pool  named  Llyn  Idwal,  surrounded  by  a  noble  amphitheatre  of 
mountains.  Here  occurs  Pibularia  globulifera.  If  you  would  be  sub¬ 
limely  captivated,”  says  Mr.  Bucke,  visit  Nant-Francon,  or  NanG 
Gwynant.  Range  along  those  crags  and  precipices,  where  rocks  are  reared, 
in  fantastic  piles,  even  to  the  clouds;  and  where  nature,  bold  and  rough,  in 
silent  terror,  ^  sits  alone,  majestic  on  her  craggy  throne.’  There  rove, 
transported,  among  scenes  so  awful  and  sublime,  that  the  breath  is  sus¬ 
pended  while  the  eye  is  gazing  upon  these  wonders  ;  there,  where  the  race  of 
man  seems  extinct,  where  not  a  tree  nor  a  shrub,  nor  a  cottage  will  remind 

z 


338 


LLANDEGAI. 


you  of  humanity,  and  where  no  sound  is  heard  but  the  rushing  of  waters^  the 
solemn  roar  of  the  winds^  the  cries  of  the  eagle  or  the  screams  of  the  kite. 
Pursue  the  windings  of  the  defile^  stand  upon  its  edge,  and  cast  your  eyes 
below!  A  beautiful  and  romantic  glen  stretches  at  the  bottom.  No; 
scarcely  in  all  nature  can  a  scene  more  truly  grand,  or  more  exquisitely 
captivating,  be  seen.  May  he  who  is  capable  of  viewing  Nant-Francon, 
and  beholding  it  with  indifference,  stand,  to  eternal  ages,  at  the  bottom  of 
the  glen,  a  marble  monument  of  his  insensibility  !  ”  (^Beauties  of  Nature, 
i.  209.)  Idwal,  a  young  prince,  son  of  Owain  Gwynedd,  was  placed  under 
the  care  of  Nefydd  Hardd,  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes  of  N.AFales,  who  resided 
at  Llanrwst,  at  the  close  of  the  1 2th  century.  Here  Dunawt  cruelly  mur¬ 
dered  Idwal  under  the  shade  of  this  Pandsemonium,  at  the  instigation 
of  his  father,  Nefydd  Hardd. 

On  the  summit  of  the  Glyder  (or  more  properly  Clydder,  signifying  pile), 
is  an  enormous  accumulation  of  stone  pillars,  supposed  by  the  editors  of 
Camden’s  Britannia  to  have  formed  a  Druidic  temple.  Y-garn,  a  heap  of 
stones,”  is  the  next  eminence  below  Glyder-fawr.  These  aggregations  are 
generally  considered  to  be  patriarchal  monuments,  although  some  antiqua¬ 
ries  contend  that  they  contain  the  hones  of  malefactors.  On  the  pass  of 
Bwlch-y-Ddeufaen,  to  the  largest  of  the  two  pillars,  is  a  carnedd,  opened 
some  years  ago  in  search  of  treasure,  in  which  was  found  a  large  stone 
chest,  which  clearly  indicates  its  origin  sepulchral.  Cwm  Cywion,  the 
Chicken’s  Cwm,”  so  named  probably  from  its  abounding  with  grouse, 
is  warmly  situated,  and  divides  Garn  from  another  peaked  hill,  called 
Y-foel-goch.  In  this  hollow  there  is  a  small  pool  from  which  runs  the 
stream  called  Avon  Gywion,  the  Chicken’s  Brook.”  Between  Foel-goch 
and  Clogwyn-y-Geifr,  ue.  the  Goat’s  Precipice,”  is  a  pass  from  Nant- 
Francon  to  Llanberis,  called  Bwich  Breccan,  probably  from  Brecon, 
mountains.”  In  ascending  this  bwich  pass  an  extensive  hollow,  called 
Cwm  Bual,  “  the  Buffalo’s  Cwm,”  probably  from  corn-bual,  a  drinking 
horn.  These  cymydd  are  the  summer  leys  for  horned  cattle  and  mountain 
horses,  while  the  surrounding  cliffs  are  inhabited  by  sheep  and  goats.  On 
the  N.  side  of  the  upper  Marchlyn  is  Carnedd- y-Filiast,  the  heap  or 

Barrow  of  the  Greyhound  Bitch.”  This  may  have  been  a  watch  tower. 
The  name  may  have  been  corrupted  for  Carnedd-y-Filas,  or  fil-las,  the 
Heap  of  the  great  Slaughter.”  At  the  foot  of  this  hill  is  Marchlyn-mawr, 
i.  e.  the  horse  lake,  said  to  he  very  deep  and  well  stored  with  trout.  The 
stupendous  cliffs  of  Lyder-mawr  hang  over  it.  The  parishioners  of  Llan- 
degai  assert,  that  the  line  which  bounds  their  parish  on  the  Llanddeiniolen 
side,  runs  through  the  middle  of  Marchlyn-isav,  or  Marchlyn-hach,  the 
lower  or  the  lesser  Horse  Lake,”  leaving  the  s.  side  in  Llanddeiniolen, 
and  the  other  in  Llandegai,  and  thence  straight  up  to  the  main  top  of  Lyder- 
mawr.  Trifaen,  the  r.  mountain,  derives  its  name  from  three  tall  blocks 
standing  in  an  upright  position  on  its  summit,  which,  from  below,  bore  the 
exact  resemblance  of  three  men.  Of  these  only  two  remain.  These  upright 
projections  are  seen  also  from  the  road  near  Llyn  Ogwen.  This  is  a  large 
pool,  well  stocked  with  trout  and  other  fish.  Here  the  country  changes  its 
rough  aspect,  and  assumes  a  character  less  mountainous,  which  it  retains  till 
within  one  or  two  m.  of  Capel  Curio,  when  it  resumes  its  former  aspect. 
The  new  post  road  from  Cernioge  to  Bangor  Ferry,  through  the  heart  of 
the  stupendous  Arvonian  Alps,  passes  close  to  the  slate  quarries,  and 
shortens  the  distance  from  Shrewsbury  to  Bangor  at  least  8  m. 


To  Bangor,  2  miles.  Bingley. 
Abcr,  4  miles.  Pennant. 


To  Nant-Francon.  Pennant. 
Capel  Curig,  11  miles. 


339 


LLANDEILO-FAWR. 

From  Lampeter,  21  miles.  Barber.  I  From  Carmarthen,  15  miles.  Malkin;  Skrine; 

Pont-ar-Dulas,  14  miles.  Malkin.  Lipscomb. 

1  Neath,  through  Llandybie,21  m.Wyndham 

LLANDEILO-FAWR  is  a  market-town  of  Carmarthenshire,  beauti¬ 
fully  situated  on  a  descent  to  the  justly  famed  Fale  of  Towy,  in  the  hundreds 
of  Caeo,  Perfedd,  and  Is  Cenen.  The  church,  situated  near  the  centre 
of  the  town,  is  very  ancient,  and  consists  of  two  aisles,  so  low,  that  the 
piUars  which  support  the  arches  upon  which  the  roof  rests  are  not  more 
than  5  ft.  high.  The  ancestors  of  Lord  Dynevor  are  interred  at  the  e.  end  of 
the  N.  aisle,  under  the  pew  belonging  to  the  family.  The  living  is  a  vicarage, 
and  the  structure  is  dedicated  to  the  British  saint  Teilo.  Three  sacred  edi¬ 
fices  attached  to  this  parish  are  extinct,  —  Llandyfaen,  Capel-yr-Ywen,  and 
a  chapel  in  Careg  Cennen  Castle.  Lord  Dynevor  has  presented  the  site  of  a 
new  church,  and  his  lordship’s  son,  the  Hon.  George  Rice  Trevor,  M.P.,  has 
announced  his  intention  of  endowing  it  with  25/.  annually.  His  lordship’s 
eldest  daughter,  the  Hon.  Frances  Rice  Rice,  laid  the  first  stone,  April  2. 
1839;  the  Bishop  of  St.  David’s  patron.  Previous  to  his  elevation  to 
the  see  of  Gloucester,  Bishop  Nicholson  had  the  spiritual  charge  of  this 
parish.  He  was  the  author  of  a  valuable  Exposition  of  the  Church 
Catechism,  which  he  dedicated  ‘^‘^to  all  his  loving  parishioners  of  Llandeilo- 
fawr,’’  in  the  year  l66l.  When  archdeacon  of  Brecon,  he  wrote  An 
Apology  for  the  Discipline  of  the  Church  of  England.”  He  had  the  repu¬ 
tation  of  a  learned  divine,  and  was  a  man  of  great  prudence,  charity,  and 
moderation.  The  bridge  over  the  Towy  consists  of  three  very  light  and 
elegant  arches,  built  by  David  Edwards,  of  Beaupre,  in  Glamorganshire. 

The  Bear  hin  at  this  place,  mentioned  by  Sir  Richard  Hoare,  as  “^the 
worst  in  S.  Wales,”  and  by  Miss  Spence,  as  very  uncomfortable  and  ex¬ 
orbitant,”  has  assumed  a  new  character.  The  editor  has  been  assured  that 
under  subsequent  management  it  deserves  as  much  commendation  as  it 
formerly  merited  censure.  In  1831  the  population  of  this  town  amounted 
to  1258  inhabitants.  The  market  is  held  on  Saturday,  and  is  well  supplied 
with  corn  ;  the  fairs  are  held  Feb.  20.  Palm  Monday,  and  June  4.  ;  that 
of  Fair  Fach,  distant  from  Llandeilo-fawr  1  m.,  is  on  Nov.  22.  A  union 
market  company  is  about  to  be  established.  The  Sessions  are  holden  annu¬ 
ally  in  the  month  of  July.  This  parish  measures  from  n.  to  s.  about 
l6  m.,  from  e.  to  w.  about  8  m.  In  this  parish  are  four  places  of  wor¬ 
ship  for  Independents’;  two  for  Baptists ;  two  for  Wesleyan  Methodists  ; 
and  one  each  for  Calvinistic  Methodists  and  Unitarians.  A  substantial 
new  workhouse  has  been  recently  erected.  In  a  n.  e.  direction,  3  m., 
lies  the  ruins  of  Capel-yr-Ywen,  In  a  s.  direction,  about  5  m.  distant,  is 
a  chalybeate  spring,  called  Ffynnon  Craig  Ceffyl.  Another  well,  formerly 
much  resorted  to,  supposed  to  be  efficacious  in  the  cure  of  paralytic 
affections,  numbness,  and  scorbutic  humours,  is  at  Llan-y-Faen,  distant 
nearly  4m.  s.  s.  w.  About  4  m.  s.  e.  from  Llandeilo-fawr,  lies  Castell 
Careg  Cennen,  the  Castle  upon  the  Rock  by  the  Cennen,”  a  small  stream 
running  at  the  foot  of  the  eminence  whereon  the  castle  stands.  Jhe  rock 
is  accessible  only  on  one  side.  This  fortress  is  supposed  to  have  been  built 
by  Goronw,  lord  of  Is  Cenen,  who  was  a  knight  of  Arthur’s  table.  The 
well  in  this  castle  is  a  singular  curiosity.  About  1  m.  further  s.  lies  Cwrt- 
Bryn-y-Beirdd,  formerly  a  principal  bardish  residence,  now  tenanted  as  a 
farm-house.  Near  this  spot  rises  the  river  Llwchwr  issuing  in  a  very  copious 

z  2 


340 


LLANDEILO-FAWR. 


stream  immediately  from  the  solid  rock.  Close  to  the  spring  is  a  cavern 
of  considerable  length.  In  some  parts  it  is  so  narrow  as  hardly  to 
admit  a  person  to  pass  through  ;  and  in  other  places  it  is  spacious,  exhibit¬ 
ing  a  variety  of  beautiful  petrifactions.  Though  the  town  of  Llandeilo- 
fawr  has  nothing  in  itself  to  recommend  it,  the  environs  in  every  direction 
are  exquisitely  beautiful.  In  1213,  Rhys  Fychan,  being  apprehensive 
that  Faulke,  lord  of  Cardigan,  would  dispossess  him  of  this  town,  caused  it 
to  be  burnt  to  the  ground,  and  then  had  recourse  to  the  woods  and  desert 
places  in  its  vicinity. 

According  to  the  history  of  Wales  by  Caradog  of  Llancarfan,  the  last 
decisive  conflict  between  the  forces  of  Edward  I.  and  those  of  Llywelyn, 
prince  of  Wales,  was  fought  near  Llandeilo-fawr,  in  which  the  king’s 
forces  gained  a  complete  victory ;  in  consequence  of  which  this  unfortunate 
prince  soon  after,  near  Builth,  lost  both  his  power  and  his  life.  This 
victory  put  a  final  period  to  Welsh  independency  in  the  year  1282  ;  since 
that  period  the  Principality  has  been  subject  to  the  crown  of  England. 

Mr.  Malkin  recommends  this  place  in  preference  to  Carmarthen,  as  a 
residence  from  which  to  make  excursions  through  the  adjacent  country. 
Manorahon  in  this  parish,  is  the  residence  of  D.  Pughe,  Esq. 

Newton  Park  contains  the  delightful  modern  residence  of  Lord  Dynevor, 
and  affords  the  most  extensive  and  picturesque  view  of  this  vale.  Under 
the  keeper’s  attendance  pass  through  waving  lawns  and  woody  knolls  to  a 
bold  hill  where,  embosomed  in  tufted  trees,  appears  the  picturesque  remains 
of  Dynevor  Castle.  A  winding  path,  cut  through  the  leafy  honours  of  this 
eminence,  conducts  the  tourist  beneath  their  dark  umbrage  to  the  summit. 
Climbing  a  massive  fragment  of  the  ruin,  and  reaching  an  apartment 
called  the  Ladies’  Dressing-room,”  a  prospect  teeming  with  the  most  fas¬ 
cinating  natural  charms,  may  be  examined  from  a  Gothic  window  overhung 
with  ivy.  It  has  been  described  as  a  galaxy  of  picturesque  beauty,  at 
which  remembrance  becomes  entranced,  while  description  faulters.  Imme¬ 
diately  beneath  the  expansive  Vale  of  Towy  appears  in  full  display  ;  a  hue 
of  the  richest  green  marking  the  luxuriance  of  the  soil.  The  translucid 
stream  here  wantons  in  perpetual  variety  among  gay  meadows  and  embower¬ 
ing  plantations,  till  it  disappears  behind  projecting  groves.  The  rich  wood 
wdiich  surrounds  the  castellated  eminence  clothes  a  precipitate  descent  to  the 
water’s  edge,  and  with  the  sylvan  decorations  of  the  park,  forms  the  near 
boundary  of  the  vale.  On  the  opposite  side,  a  lofty  and  dreary  mountain 
rears  its  desolate  summit  to  the  clouds.  Beneath,  s.  w.,  is  Golden  Grove, 
appearing  in  diminished  beauty.  The  mansion  was  inherited  by  Mr. 
Vaughan,  said  to  have  been  the  greatest  landholder  in  Carmarthenshire. 
He  left  a  considerable  portion  of  his  estate  to  Lord  Cawdor,  father  of  the 
present  earl.  Several  smaller  seats  and  whitened  hamlets  in  the  valley 
glisten  through  their  appendant  groves.  A  superb  specimen  of  the  Hirlas  is 
in  the  possession  of  Earl  Cawdor,  at  tins  place.  The  hirlas  was  a  large 
horn  of  an  ox,  enriched  with  ornaments  of  silver  or  gold,  sometimes 
with  a  chain,  and  mounted  upon  a  stand  of  the  same  metal  elegantly  de¬ 
signed,  ‘^^Hirlazei  arwyz,  aur  ei  duzed.”  (O.  Cyv.)  It  has  been  often 
remarked  of  the  vales  of  England,  that  they  are  rich  in  wood,  meadow, 
rural  animals  and  edifices;  but  few  of  them  are  embellished  with  rocks 
or  mountains.  None  are  comparable  to  the  vales  of  Clwyd,  Llangollen,  and 
Festiniog,  or  with  those  of  the  Usk,  the  Towy,  or  Glamorgan.  Of  these 
the  Clwyd  is  the  richest ;  Llangollen  the  most  pisturesque ;  Festiniog 
abounds  in  beautiful  and  sublime  combination,  but  the  Towy  is  by  far  the 
most  adapted  for  a  tranquil  and  elegant  retirement. 

A  little  westward,  Grongar  Hill,  immortalised  by  the  muse  of  Dyer,  and 


LLANDEILO-FAWR.  341 

now  the  property  of  one  of  his  descendants^  advances  in  the  vale^  and 
partly  turns  its  course  ;  it  is  thus  memorialised  by  the  poet  Dyer  :  — 

“  Grongar,  in  whose  silent  shade 
For  the  modest  Muses  made. 

So  oft  I  have,  the  evening  still, 

At  the  fountain  of  a  rill, 

Sat  upon  a  flowery  bed. 

With  my  hand  beneath  my  head ; 

While  stray’d  my  eyes  o’er  Towy’s  flood, 

O  ver  mead  and  over  wood, 

From  house  to  house,  from  hill  to  hill. 

Till  contemplation  had  her  fill.” 

At  some  distance  further,  a  ragged  hill,  bearing  the  mouldering  fragments 
of  Castell  Drwsllwyriy  proudly  occupies  the  plain,  and  terminates  the  pic¬ 
ture.  Middleton  Hall  is  unoccupied,  and  situated  s.  of  the  valley  towards 
Carmarthen,  but  commands  none  of  its  beauties.  This  mansion  was  built 
a  few  years  since  by  Mr.  Paxton,  formerly  a  banker  at  Bengal,  and  has  been 
pronounced  one  of  the  most  splendid  specimens  of  modern  architecture  in 
Wales  ;  but  being  unfavourably  situated,  it  is  much  neglected. 

The  apparent  remains  of  Dynevor  Castle  are  at  the  s.  w.  extremity  of 
Newton  Park,  and  seem  to  indicate  that  it  is  a  place  of  small  importance  ; 
but  the  vestiges  of  a  wall  and  ditch  at  some  distance  from  the  conspicuous 
ruin  may  he  traced,  which  prove  it  has  been  of  considerable  dimensions. 
It  was  built  by  Rhys  ap  Tewdwr,  in  the  time  of  William  the  Conqueror. 
Its  original  form  was  circular,  fortified  by  a  double  moat  and  rampart. 
The  most  prominent  parts  are  the  apartment  already  mentioned,  a  massive 
round  tower,  the  ancient  keep,  and  a  subterraneous  passage.  Giraldus  saw 
a  castle  here  which  was  destroyed  in  the  year  1 1 94,  about  six  years  after 
he  wrote  his  Itinerary ;  it  was,  however,  soon  rebuilt,  and  became  the 
royal  seat  of  the  princes  of  S.  W ales ;  but  frequently  changed  its  pro¬ 
prietors,  until  it  fell  to  the  crown  of  England.  Henry  VII.  made  a  grant 
of  it  to  Sir  Rhys  ap  Thomas,  K.G.,  a  lineal  descendant  of  the  Welsh  princes, 
and  ancestor  to  the  present  proprietor.  It  was  inhabited  till  about  I76O, 
when  the  combustible  part  of  it  was  destroyed  by  fire. 

The  modern  mansion  of  Lord  Dynevor,  situated  on  a  level  about  T  rn. 
from  the  castle,  is  a  large  quadrangular  structure,  having  turrets  at  each 
corner,  crowned  with  domes.  An  avenue  of  trees  extends  thence  to  the 
castle,  which  is  broken  into  clumps,  harmonising  with  the  general  style  of 
the  park,  which  is  of  considerable  extent,  and  includes  the  greatest  possible 
variety  of  picturesque  beauties.  The  upper  part  has  a  fine  undulating 
surface,  and  displays  considerable  taste  in  its  plantations ;  while  on  the 
other  side  rises  a  steep  lofty  hill,  whose  declivities  are  clothed  with  rich 
wood,  and  on  whose  brow  are  seen  the  venerable  walls  and  towers  of  Dyne¬ 
vor  Castle.  The  beauty  of  this  scene  is  considerably  heightened  by  the 
rolling  of  the  Towy,  whose  waters  here  wanton  in  endless  variety,  amidst 
the  most  delightful  verdant  meadows  and  rich  plantations.  In  this  vale 
there  is  a  fine  development  of  the  lower  formation  of  the  Silurian  rocks, 
composed  of  dark-coloured  flags,  mostly  calcareous  (Llandeilo  flag),  with 
some  sandstone  and  schist. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Careg  Cennen  Castle  are  some  remains  of 
Llangadog  and  Llanymdyfri  castles,  frequently  mentioned  in  British 
history. 

The  road  to  Llandovery  is  carried  through  the  vale,  along  which  the 
Towy  finds  its  way.  The  ride  or  walk  may  be  varied  from  the  direct  road 
with  advantage  by  turning  off  at  the  turnpike-gate  of  Gurrey~fach, 

z  3 


342 


LLANDEILO-FAWR. 


W.  Jones^  Esq.jWlio  erected  the  adjoining  neat  chapel,  taking  the  Lampeter 
road  as  far  as  Llansawyll,  and  then  crossing  the  hills.  The  extensive 
woods  adjoining  Taliaris,  the  elegant  seat  of  the  late  Lord  Robert  Seymour, 
constitute  a  principal  ornament  of  the  scene.  This  mansion  is  a  ^very  fine 
structure,  pleasantly  situated  on  an  eminence,  and  formed  once  a  part  of 
the  extensive  property  of  the  Gwynnes  of  Glanbran.  On  the  other  side 
the  road,  at  some  distance,  is  Abermarle  Park,  once  the  seat  of  Sir  Rhys  ap 
Thomas.  A  little  further  stands  the  Monastery  of  Talley,  or  Tal-y-llychau, 
on  a  fine  and  luxuriant  fiat,  screened  by  lofty  ridged  hills,  and  command¬ 
ing  the  Vale  of  Towy.  There  are  considerable  remains  of  the  edifice;  it 
ranks  among  the  most  venerable  specimens  of  ecclesiastic  establishments 
in  this  part  of  the  Principality.  Here  are  two  pools,  of  rather  a  large  size. 

The  next  attractive  object  is  Edwinsford,  a  seat  of  Sir  James  Hamlyn 
Williams,  Bart.,  on  the  banks  of  the  Cothi.  It  is  a  very  delightful  spot.  The 
mansion  appears  formerly  to  have  been  of  great  magnitude,  and  is  ap¬ 
proached  by  a  stately  avenue  of  lofty  trees.  Llansawyll  is  a  pleasing  spot 
on  a  branch  of  the  Cothi.  The  village  is  decent,  and  there  is  a  tolerable 
inn.  The  rest  of  the  way  to  Lampeter  being  extremely  sterile,  we  traced 
the  steps  of  Mr.  Malkin,  who  turned  to  the  r.  up  a  wild  common,  and,  after 
a  laborious  ascent,  reached  the  summit  of  Cynfil  Cam,  an  elevation  on  the 
road  between  Lampeter  and  Llandovery,  which  commands  almost  the 
whole  of  the  rugged  country  between  these  two  places,  with  a  partial  glance 
upon  the  vale  between  Llandovery  and  Llandeilo-fawr,  as  overlooking  the 
intervening  hills.  There  occurs  a  pretty  scene  on  approaching  Llandovery  ; 
but  nothing  very  striking  is  observable  till  a  bridge  of  one  arch  appears 
over  the  Towy,  built  by  William  Edwards. 

In  passing  the  upper  vale  of  the  Towy  from  Llandeilo  to  Llandovery, 
Mr.  Skrine  remarks,  that  though  inferior  to  that  which  he  had  traversed 
from  Carmarthen,  yet  it  abounds  in  beauties  peculiar  to  itself.  It  is 
neither  so  well  wooded,  nor  so  verdant ;  but  cultivation  and  pasturage  are 
agreeably  intermixed  on  each  side  of  the  winding  stream  ;  and  the  terrace 
road  extends  agreeably  between  the  elevated  seat  and  groves  of  Taliaris  and 
the  town  of  Llangadog  Cresseny,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  Mr. 
Lipscomb  says,  A  finger-post  pointed  to  a  ford  and  bridge.  He  casually 
chose  the  latter  route,  and  by  this  accident  lengthened  his  journey  3  m  ; 
the  road  passing  by  Llandovery,  after  many  turnings  and  windings,  leads 
to  a  stone  bridge  of  one  arch  over  the  river.’’ 

The  road  to  Pont-ar-dulas  is  generally  left  for  the  sake  of  visiting  Castell 
Careg  Cennen.  The  following  account  of  such  a  deviation  is  by  Mr.  Barber. 
‘  At  the  first  turnpike  we  preceded  to  the  r.,  up  the  side  of  a  romantic 
dingle,  down  the  dark  hollow  of  which  a  small  cascade  descended  with  very 
good  effect.  In  our  ascent,  delightful  views  were  obtained  of  the  upper 
vale  of  Towy,  stretching  from  Llandeilo  bridge  to  the  vicinage  of  Llan¬ 
dovery.  The  distant  groves  of  Taliaris  and  Abermarle  parks  adorn  this 
view,  inferior  only  to  that  from  Hynevor  Castle.  As  we  advanced  further, 
the  rich  prospect  withdrew,  and  we  found  ourselves  entering  upon  the 
dreary  wilds  of  the  Black  Mountains ;  our  path  then  became  indistinct, 
unenlivened  by  a  single  habitation  or  human  face.  At  length  a  cottage 
appeared,  and  we  inquired  our  way  to  Careg  Cennen  Castle  ;  but  Dim 
Saesonig”  was  all  that  we  could  gather  from  the  inhabitants.  Thus  con¬ 
strained  to  proceed  at  random,  we  mounted  a  precipitous  hill  over  a  track 
which  forms  the  bed  of  a  torrent,  and  discovered  the  object  of  our  search 
upon  a  bold  rock,  a  considerable  distance  on  our  right.  A  Welsh  farmer 
was  also  comprised  in  this  view,  working  hard  to  repair  the  damages  of  a 


LLANDEILO-FAWR. 


343 


late  storm.  We  inquired  which  road  we  had  best’  pursue,  and  again  were 
answered  with  Dim  Saesonig  he,  however,  signified  that  he  would  fetch 
some  one  ;  and  running  over  two  or  three  fields,  returned  with  his  daughter, 
a  fine  buxom  girl,  who  had  picked  up  a  little  English  at  Llandeilo  market. 
Without  entreaty  she  offered  to  be  our  guide,  and  blithly  led  us,  through 
mountainous  wilds,  within  a  short  distance  of  the  object  of  our  search. 
On  crossing  the  ruin  through  its  stormy  halls,”  we  recoiled  on  finding 
ourselves  upon  the  brink  of  an  isolated  rock,  which,  except  by  the  side  on 
which  we  ascended,  encompasses  the  castle  in  a  rocky  cliff  upwards  of 
100  yards  in  perpendicular  height.  Climbing  among  the  mossy  fragments  of 
the  ruin,  we  discovered  an  aperture  in  the  ground  connected  with  a  long  sub¬ 
terraneous  gallery  dug  through  the  solid  rock,  and  lighted  by  windows  cut 
in  the  cliff,  though  not  visible  from  any  situation  without.  This  recess 
terminated  in  a  large  gloomy  cavern,  which  seemed  to  have  led  to  some 
adjacent  spot,  forming  a  secret  communication  from  the  castle.  Of  this 
part  of  the  ruin,  Mr.  Thomas  Evans  gives  the  following  account: —  The 
well  is  of  a  singular  kind,  for  instead  of  a  perpendicular  descent,  here  is  a 
large  winding  cave  bored  through  the  solid  rock,  with  an  arched  passage  on 
the  northern  edge  of  the  precipice,  running  along  the  outside  of  the  fortress 
with  an  easy  slope  to  the  beginning  of  the  perforation,  which  is  in  length 
84  ft.,  and  of  various  dimensions.  The  breadth  at  the  entrance  is  12  ft., 
and  in  some  places  less  than  S  ft. ;  but  at  a  medium,  it  may  be  estimated  to 
be  from  5  ft.  to  6  ft.,  and  the  height  10  ft.:  the  whole  descent  through  the 
rock  is  150  ft.  Notwithstanding  all  this  extravagant  labour,  there  is 
scarcely  water  sufficient  for  a  small  family.  On  our  return,  we  were  more 
at  liberty  to  examine  the  features  of  the  ruin,  which  proved  of  the  simplest 
construction,  totally  without  ornament  or  a  single  Gothic  form,  and  con¬ 
sisting  of  one  irregular  court  with  towers  at  each  angle.  If  the  Britons 
had  any  castles  of  stone  before  the  arrival  of  the  Normans  (a  fact  doubted 
by  some  antiquaries),  I  imagine  this  to  be  one.  The  gateway  is  not 
between  three  towers  in  front,  but  a  strong  covered  way  on  the  brink  of 
the  rock  leads  to  the  gates  on  the  s.  side.  Some  writers  ascribe  the  erection 
of  this  fortress  to  a  chieftain  named  Goronw,  others  to  Urian  Reged,  a 
remote  ancestor  of  the  house  of  Dynevor.  The  finest  approach  to  it  is 
from  Llandybie.  From  this  wild  abode  pass  by  a  lonely  tower,  among 
ditch-like  tracts,  to  recover  the  high  road  from  Llandeilo  to  Swansea. 
Hence  soon  turn  off  on  the  r.,  to  visit  Glenheir  waterfall,  in  the  grounds 
of  Mr.  Dubaison,  about  5  m.  s.  of  Llandeilo.  Here  the  Lwchwr  pursues 
its  course  between  steep  banks  clothed  with  variegated  trees  and  shrubs. 
On  one  of  the  descents  a  walk  is  traced  with  some  ingenuity,  in  front  of 
a  small  picturesque  cascade  formed  by  a  tributary  stream  to  the  Lwchwr. 
This  might  be  mistaken  for  the  object  sought ;  but  crossing  a  rustic  bridge, 
the  eye  on  a  sudden  encounters  the  whole  river  rushing  beneath  a  portal  of 
trees,  and  throwing  itself  over  a  ledge  of  black  rock  in  a  single  fall  of 
18  ft.  The  effect  of  the  whole,  seen  through  the  gloom  of  pendant  trees, 
is  striking  ;  though  it  must  be  confessed,  a  sheet  of  water  presenting  the 
formality  of  an  unbroken  square  is  somewhat  unpicturesque.  Crossing 
the  Lwchwr,  at  a  ford  about  2  m.  further,  we  proceeded  upwards  of  8  m. 
with  the  unwelcome  gloom  of  the  Black  Mountains  on  the  1.,  and  a 
pleasant  diversified  country  on  the  r.,  to  the  village  of  Pont  Dulas,  but 
which  we  did  not  reach  before  evening.  Here  is  a  comfortable  inn.  On 
the  following  morning  we  rose  early,  and  found  the  place  to  possess  many 
traits  of  picturesque  attraction,  being  seated  near  a  rapid  river,  and  agree¬ 
ably  interspersed  with  woods.  Thence  we  had  a  pleasant  ride  to  Swansea." 

z  4 


3U< 


LLANDOVERY. 


To  Carmarthen^  on  the  Great  Road,  pass  Rhiw-yr-adar,  m.  (At 
1  m.  distance  on  the  1.,  is  Berllan-dywyll,  and  Aberglasney,  Captain  Dyer.) 
Cross  InU)  2  m.  (on  the  r.  is  CwrU Henry,  H.  Lloyd,  Esq.  j  at  a  distance, 
upon  the  summit  of  a  hill,  is  Penylan,  unoccupied,  g  m.  from  the  Cross 
Inn,  on  ther.,  is  Pont-dulas,  Jones  Llwycl,  Esq.  ;  between  Cross  Inn  and 
Abergwili,  on  the  r.,  is  Middleton  Hall,  A.  F.  Paxton,  Esq.  Pont-ar- 
Cothi,  over  the  river  of  that  name,  which  runs  on  the  1.  to  the  Towy,  3^  m. 
Alltygog,  2  m.  Abergwili,  2  m.  This  structure  is  the  residence  of  the 
Bishop  of  St.  David’s,  and  is  a  noble  mansion  enclosed  by  highly  ornamental 
grounds.  On  the  1.  is  Cistanog,  to  the  r.,  Castell-piggyn,  Thomas 
Bloome,  Esq.  Cross  the  Gwili,  which  flows  into  the  Towy.  Carmar¬ 
then,  1  m.  7  fur.  At  the  entrance  are  iron  and  tin-mills,  and  the  smelting- 
house  belonging  to  Earl  Cawdor.  The  hills  which  shelter  the  road  on 
the  1.  are  bold  and  striking,  and  the  course  of  the  river  is  truly  beautiful, 
rolling  through  rich  meadows  or  between  wooded  slopes.  Upon  this  river 
abound  many  of  the  coryglau  or  coracles  described  by  Lucan. 

“  Primum  cana  salix  madefacto  vimine  parvam 
Vertitur  in  puppim,  caesoque  inducta  juvenco 
Vectoris  patiens,  tumidum  superenatat  amnem 
Sic  Venetus  stagnante  pado,  fusoque  Britannus 
Navigat  oceano.” 

And  the  bard  Aneurin, 

“  Ev  lazai  llysg  y’  nghorwg 
Mai  bar  llaz  Hew  llywiwg.” 

i.  e.,  he  would  slay  fish  in  his  coracle,  like  the  furious  killing  of  the 
princely  lion. 

Angling  Stations.  —  Derwydd,  3^  m.  ;  Glyn,  9  ni*  on  the  Cothi.  — Good. 

To  Swansea,  23  miles.  Barber.  j  To  and  from  Castle  Careg  Cennen,  9  miles. 

Llandovery,  12  miles.  Malkin;  Skrine ;  Llandeilo-fawr  to  Carmarthen,  15  m.  Wynd- 
Lipscomb.  *  ham. 


LLANDOVERY. 

From  Llandeilo-fawr,  12  miles.  Malkin ;  Skrine ;  j  From  Tregaron,  11  miles.  Evans. ' 

Lipscomb.  |  Builth,by  way  of  Llan wry  td  Wells.  Skrine. 

LLANDOVERY,  or  Llan-ym-Dypri,  is  an  incorporated  market-town, 
in  the  hundred  of  Perfedd,  and  parish  of  Llandingad,  Carmarthenshire, 
nearly  surrounded  by  rivulets,  which  afford  fine  sport  to  the  angler.  Its 
name  is  probably  derived  from  its  situation  near  the  confluence  of  the  Bran 
and  Gwdderig ;  which  join  the  Towy,  about  1  m.  distant.  Here  is  a 
bridge  of  one  arch,  45  ft.  in  the  span,  having  one  cylinder  over  the 
haunches  ;  it  was  built  by  the  architect  of  Pont-y-Prydd.  The  population 
of  this  town,  in  1831,  consisting  of  Castle,  High,  Lower,  Queen,  and  Stone 
Streets,  amounted  to  about  1766.  The  Rev.  E.  H.  Griffith  Williams,  of 
Llwyn-y-wormwood,  lately  presented  a  most  valuable  set  of  communion 
plate  to  the  church.  The  inhabitants  chiefly  subsist  by  the  frequenters  of  its 
markets  and  fairs,  and  by  summer  visitants  passing  to  Aberystwith.  The 
market  is  held  on  Wednesday  and  Saturday.  The  fairs  are  on  Wednesday 
after  17th  January,  Wednesday  after  Low  Sunday,  Whit  Tuesday,  called 
the  Bailiff*’s  Fair,  July,  31.  Wednesday  after  10th  of  October,  and  26th  of 
November,  for  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  &c.  Upon  a  mount  near  the  centre  of 
Llandovery,  is  a  small  ivy-mantled  Castle,  much  dilapidated.  This  town 


LLANDOVERY. 


345 


is  ancienL  and  originated  in  the  Roman  station  which  was  at  or  near 
Llanfair-ar-y-hryn,  about  m.  distant.  The  first  historical  notice  of  it 
occurs  in  1113,  when  it  was  occupied  by  Richard  de  Pons.  At  this  place 
numerous  pieces  of  Roman  brick,  earthenware,  and  coins  have  been 
found.  In  lll6  the  castle  was  besieged  by  Gryffydd  ah  Rhys,  who  burned 
the  outer  ward,  and  slew  a  great  part  of  the  garrison,  but  was  obliged  to 
raise  the  siege.  In  1214,  Rhys  Fychan  left  this  castle  well  fortified  and 
garrisoned,  hut  during  his  absence  it  was  surrendered  to  an  army  of  Welsh 
and  Normans,  on  condition  of  being  allowed  to  depart  with  arms  and 
property.  It  is  said  to  have  been  finally  destroyed  by  Cromwell,  during  the 
parliamentary  war.  The  ruins  at  present  consist  of  part  of  the  keep,  the 
site  of  the  outer  ward,  and  entrenchments  which  surround  it.  The  site  of 
the  whole  is  an  elevated  insulated  rock.  Llandovery  was  constituted  by 
Henry  VIII.  a  contributary  borough  to  Carmarthen,  but  has  lost  this 
privilege.  It  still  notwithstanding  retains  a  charter,  and  has  fallen  into 
disuse.  The  government  is  vested  in  a  bailiff,  recorder,  and  burgesses, 
assisted  by  a  town-clerk,  two  sergeants  at  mace,  and  four  constables,  chosen 
annually,  but  they  exercise  no  magisterial  functions.  This  is  one  of  the 
polling  places  in  the  election  of  a  member  for  the  county.  Petit  sessions 
for  the  upper  division  of  the  hundred  of  Perfedd  are  held  here  weekly. 
Five  Benefit  Societies  are  supported,  two  of  which  are  composed  of  women. 
This  place  is  remarkable  as  the  birthplace  and  residence  of  the  Rev. 
Rhys  'Pritchard,  A.M.  its  celebrated  vicar,  author  of  what  is  known  all  over 
Wales  by  the  title  of  Llyvyry- Picker,  or  the  Vicar’s  Book,”  a  collection 
of  very  simple  poetry.  This  work  was  translated  into  English  by  the  Rev. 
William  Evans,  vicar  of  Lawhaden.  Himself,  his  wife,  and  daughter, 
were  buried  at  this  church,  yet  no  memorial  exists  of  them  !  He  was  born 
in  1379^  inducted  into  the  living  of  Llan-dingad  in  l602,  made  chancellor 
of  St.  David’s  in  l626,  and  died  at  this,_his  native  place,  in  l644.  Inns: 
The  Castle  and  the  Lamb. 

To  the  E.  of  this  town  appears  a  formidable  barrier  called  Mynydd-Du, 
or  the  Black  Mountain,  over  which  the  high  road  towards  England  formerly 
passed ;  and  travellers,  after  attaining  the  summit,  had  to  pursue' a  rocky 
descent  into  the  Vale  of  Usk.  This  inconvenience,  however,  is  now  obviated 
by  the  road  being  carried  in  a  winding  direction,  through  a  beautiful, 
undulating  glen,  which  encircles  the  mountain.  This  romantic  pass  of 
Cwm-Dwr,  abounding  with  the  most  enchanting  display  of  the  more  placid 
mountain  scenery,  extends  9  round  the  base  of  the  mountain,  and 
reaches  Trecastle,  10  m.  at  as  short  a  distance  as  over  the  summit.  It  has 
not  always  occured  to  surveyors  of  roads,  that  to  wind  round  the  foot  of  a 
mountain  to  its  opposite  side  is  sometimes  shorter  than  over  its  highest 
point.  The  Romans,  instead  of  conducting  their  streams  across  a  valley 
in  tubes,  constructed  immense  aqueducts  resembling  Pont-y-cysylltau,  near 
Llangollen.  Cwm-Dwr  is  finely  contrasted  with  the  wild  and  uncultivated 
aspect  of  the  mountains,  which  back  its  foreground,  studded  with  cottages  ; 
here  embrowned  with  wood,  and  there  embellished  with  masses  of  rock. 

A  few  m.  on  the  r.  on  this  mountain,  the  river  Usk  rises  out  of  a  spring 
called  Blaen-IVysg,  or  source  of  the  Usk,  at  the  head  of  which  vale  stands 
the  decayed  town  of  Trecastle,  containing  nothing  worthy  of  attention, 
except  the  ruins  of  a  small  fortification  erected  by  the  Norman  baron, 
Bernard  de  Newmarch,  in  the  time  of  William  Rufus.  The  ruins  con¬ 
sisted  of  an  entrance  gate,  an  octagonal,  protected  by  two  square  towers  ;  a 
round  tower  is  also  at  the  N.  W.  angle.  There  is  a  quadrilateral  court, 
30  yards  by  25.  The  well  is  a  singular  portion  of  this  structure.  The 


346 


LLANDOVERY. 


White  Hart  here  is  a  good  inn.  The  forest  of  Brecknock  or  Maescar^  is 
now  entered  upon_,  said  to  have  been  infested  formerly  by  a  banditti_,  and 
by  a  witch  named  Maud  Aubrey,  &c.  The  wood  was,  however,  cut  down, 
and,  of  course,  all  these  vermin  were  extirpated.  It  is  now  a  fine  cultivated 
country,  through  which  the  road  passes.  The  hill  called  Gaer^  8  m.  further, 
has  upon  its  summit  a  Roman  encampment.  It  is  situated  upon  rising  ground 
above  the  conflux  of  the  Usk  and  the  Yscir.  The  ruins  of  the  walls  are  still 
visible.  A  farm-house  and  otfices  have  been  built  of  stones  taken  from  these 
ruins.  Within  -l  m.  hence,  the  present  road  from  Brecon  joins  an  old 
Roman  causeway.  About  ^  m.  on  this  Roman  road  is  the  monumental  sculp¬ 
tured  stone,  called  Maen-y-Morwynion.  The  words  “^conjux  ejus”  only 
remain  of  the  inscription.  It  is  about  6  ft.  high.  About  2  m.  distant,  on  a 
steep  hill,  called  Pen-y-Crug,  is  an  oval  encampment,  with  three  fossa  and 
two  vallas,  conjectured  to  be  of  British  construction.  Roman  fortifications 
are  known  by  the  herring-back  form  of  building,  and  the  cement  boiled 
mortar ;  British,  by  loose  aggera,  or  angular  towers  ;  Saxon,  by  circular 
walls  and  arches ;  and  Norman  and  Anglo-Saxon,  by  square  towers  and 
pointed  arches.  British  churches  are  known  by  the  absence  of  a  tower 
and  the  prefix  Llan ;  Norman,  or  English- Welsh,  by  the  addition  of  a 
tower,  and  the  appellation  of  Eglwys. 

“  Scarcely  had  I  quitted,”  says  Mr.  Lipscombe,  the  town  of  Llando¬ 
very  on  my  way  to  Brecon,  ere  a  serpentine  river  appeared  on  the  r. 
gliding  beside  the  road  which  turns  under  some  craggy  rocks  at  the  foot  of 
Mynnydd-Du.  Crossed  the  stream  by  a  bridge  of  one  arch,  on  the  1.  is 
fine  bold  slope,  covered  with  wood.  The  road  then  winds  to  the  r.,  and 
rises  upon  a  terrace  above  the  river.  The  objects  which  further  occur  are 
a  Mill  within  sight  of  the  road,  a  small  Cascade,  and  on  the  r.  a  wood. 
The  road  passes  two  craggy  chasms.  The  valley  continues  narrow,  its 
precipitous  sides  being  covered  with  trees.  The  road,  gently  rising  and 
falling,  first  presents  a  view  of  bold  and  swelling  downs,  then  a  whitened 
cottage,  upon  a  summit  embowered  in  wood.  A  fine  hill  rises  from  the 
water’s  edge,  clothed  with  verdure.  The  road  now  winds  to  the  r.,  the 
sylvan  scene  is  lost,  and  the  downs,  with  the  river  at  their  feet,  claim  atten¬ 
tion.  A  cottage  on  the  verge  of  the  river,  with  a  rude  plank  resting  upon 
trunks  of  trees,  characterises  the  scene.  The  range  of  mountains  next 
breaks  away  to  the  1.,  the  stream  passing  a  small  bridge  in  Cwm-dwr  on 
the  r.  The  road  is  now  sheltered  by  a  fine  slope,  richly  covered  with 
wood,  ascend  through  it  gradually.  Continue  a  few  miles  on  this  hanging 
road,  till  a  small  village,  called  Llywl,  with  its  whitened  church,  suddenly 
appears.  The  devious  stream  with  all  its  sylvan  honours  is  then  parted 
with,  which  to  describe  requires  a  poet’s  enthusiasm.  Rode  through  Tre- 
castle,  which  consists  of  a  few  irregularly  built  farm-houses  and  cottages, 
and  stopped  at  the  White  Hart.  The  road  hence  presents  nothing  very 
striking ;  the  country,  however,  is  well  cultivated.  Aheryscir,  a  village  at 
the  mouth  of  a  small  river  [see  p.  100.  j,  and  Aberbran,  a  large  family  man¬ 
sion,  are  both  on  the  1.  The  latter  commands  a  prospect  of  the  Bran,  i.e. 
Colebrook,  passing  through  fine  meadows  several  miles.  A  bridge  of  three 
arches  appears  at  some  distance.  Devynock  Castle  stands  on  the  r.  in  a  ruin¬ 
ous  state.  Llanspyddid  is  passed,  where  is  a  neat  little  church,  surrounded 
with  very  large  yew  trees.  The  church  near  the  Bran  is  almost  hid  by  a  rich 
plantation.  Pen-y-Crug  is  a  high  mountain  on  the  e.  side  of  the  river 
Usk.  The  lines  of  castrametation  which  enclose  it  are  the  remains  of  a 
British  encampment.  Y-Gaer,  a  Roman  encampment,  is  in  this  neigh¬ 
bourhood.  The  Usk,  an  attendant  river  on  the  1.  of  this  road,  cannot 


LLANDOVERY. 


347 

be  mentioned  in  respect  to  elegant  scenery  with  the  smaller  stream  Gw- 
dderig,  between  Llandovery  and  Trecastle_,  but  it  has  its  appropriate  em¬ 
bellishments^  and  these  of  no  inferior  order.  Boldly  sloping  banks^  rich 
in  verdure,  and  covered  with  groves  of  oak ;  a  broad  stream,  raving 
among  pebbles,  or  gliding  in  silent  majesty  through  deeper  channels ; 
these  have  attracted  the  notice  of  the  affluent,  who  have  enlivened  its 
course  with  buildings,  and  clothed  the  contiguous  hills  with  plantations.” 
Enter  the  town  of  Brecon,  by  a  bridge  over  the  Usk,  which  at  a  little 
distance  above  receives  the  Honddu. 

To  Lampeter  cross  the  Towy,  by  a  bridge  of  a  single  arch,  and 
pursue  a  new  terrace,  cut  beneath  the  summit  of  hills  for  several  miles. 
The  road  is  so  indifferent  for  carriages,  that  few  have  the  resolution  to 
take  this  agreeable  route  to  Aberystwith.  The  view  of  the  Vale  of  Towy, 
in  ascending  the  first  hill,  is  delightful ;  here  Glan-Bran-Park,  and  house. 
Col.  G Wynne,  and  Ahercruclian  Church  form  distinguished  objects.  In  the 
cemetery  are  various  inscriptions,  some  in  English  and  others  in  VTelsh. 
the  service  is  performed  alternately  in  both  languages.  The  hill  opposite 
is  called  the  Forest,  probably  from  the  circumstance  of  its  having  been  for¬ 
merly  covered  with  trees.  In  this  district  the  produce  is  fine  barley  and 
oats,  but  little  wheat.  Lime  is  spread  on  natural  grass  as  a  manure.  On 
this  are  a  succession  of  barren  hills ;  some  patches  of  cultivated  land 
yield  scanty  crops  of  oats  and  barley.  Potatoes  are  abundant  near  the 
thinly  scattered  cottages,  which  are  universally  thatched,  and  frequently  con¬ 
structed  of  mud.  Turf  is  the  common  fuel.  These  rocky  and  sterile  emi¬ 
nences  are  plentifully  stocked  with  grouse,  black  game,  and  wheat-ears.  The 
fences  in  this  tract  are  composed  of  turf,  intermingled  with  hugeunshapen 
stones.  Quicksets,  elder,  hazel,  birch,  and  furze,  have  been  tried,  but  with 
little  success.  Lord  Cawdor  is  the  principal  proprietor  in  this  district. 

In  an  opening  of  some  extent  between  the  different  ranges  of  hills  occurs 
a  favourable  view  of  Cynwyl  Caio,  and  its  church,  on  the  r.  There  is  an 
upright  stone  in  the  neighbourhood  in  memory  of  the  founder  of  this  edi¬ 
fice,  called  Crossgonwell,  i,  e.  Croes  Gynwyl,  or  St.  CynwyPs  Cross.” 

Lower  in  the  vale  on  the  1.  is  stationed  the  elegant  seat  of - —  VTilliams, 

Esq.  Pass  the  Cothi,  a  small  but  rapid  stream,  and  crossing  another  emi¬ 
nence,  ford  the  Twrch.  8  m.  distant  from  Lampeter  occurs  the  New  Inn. 
On  gaining  the  summit  of  the  Lampeter  mountain,  look  down  upon  the 
fertile  vale  of  the  Teifi,  which  is  expanded  to  view  like  a  map.  About  i  m. 
from  Lampeter  cross  the  river  by  an  old  stone  bridge  of  two  arches.  The 
Teifi  produces  abundance  of  fish,  particularly  excellent  trout,  and  forms 
the  boundary  between  the  counties  of  Carmarthen  and  Cardigan. 

The  road  to  Brecon  from  Llandovery  is  said  to  be  equal  to  any  in  the 
kingdom. 

The  high  road  to  Lampeter  progresses  through  a  vacant  district,  except 
1  m.  to  the  r.  of  the  road  is  Maes  ;  and  about  2  m.  on  the  1.  of  the  road, 
Glanrannel,  D.  Jones,  Esq.  ;  near  Pumsant^  on  the  r.,  is  Dalecothy ;  and 
f  m.  beyond,  Brunant.  Close  to  Lampeter,  cross  the  Teifi,  8-2  m. 

To  Tregaron  a  road  winds  round  the  bases  of  the  mountains  through 
a  deep  valley,  exhibiting  a  succession  of  the  most  romantic  scenery.  Pont 
Velindre  crosses  the  Gwdderig,  a  rapid  stream  which  runs  from  1.  to  r., 
and  turning  under  some  rocky  projections,  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  unites 
its  waters  with  those  of  the  contiguous  Bran.  The  road  advances  a  little 
above  the  level  of  this  meandering  rivulet,  which  remains  on  the  1.  for 
several  miles.  A  cottage  here  and  there,  with  a  mill,  breaks  in  upon  the 
solitude.  The  character  of  the  mountains  is  various  as  well  as  grand,  alter- 


348 


LLANDRINDOD. 


nately  naked  and  woody.  The  valley  closes  in  gradually,  till  it  terminates 
in  a  romantic  pass,  formed  by  a  chasm  between  two  large  mountains.  On 
the  other  side  this  bwlch  tho  hills  recede,  and  the  Gwdderig  diverges  from 
the  road.  There  is  no  part  of  S.  Wales  where  the  country  and  people  are 
so  aboriginal.  The  windings  of  the  dingle  produce  a  succession  of  interesting 
circumstances  till  the  magnificent  scenery  of  Ystrad  Ffin  is  attained,  formed 
by  the  junction  of  the  CotJii,  reinforced  by  the  Pescover  and  Towy,  under 
circumstances  of  peculiar  grandeur.  The  valley  is  now  narrowed  into  a 
ravine,  of  which  the  former  has  the  possession,  while  the  latter  finds  its 
way  down  the  sides  of  a  high  mountain,  not  in  a  precipitous  fall,  but  in 
successive  bounds  from  rock  to  rock,  sometimes  foaming  over  every  impe¬ 
diment,  at  others  working  its  obstructed  course  between  or  behind  over¬ 
hanging  crags,  till  its  junction  with  the  Cothi  in  the  bottom.  The  woods 
with  which  these  precipices  are  partly  clothed  darken  its  channel,  while 
the  larger  masses  of  Roscob  Forest  beyond  add  a  pleasing  richness  to  the 
other  eccentric  features  of  the  spot.  At  the  top  of  the  mountain,  close  by 
the  first  declination  of  the  Towy,  there  is  a  cave,  about  four  yards  square, 
said  to  have  been  the  retreat  of  Thomas  John,  the  son  of  Catherine,  a 
noted  robber,  who  aspired  to  marry  the  heiress  of  Ystrad  Ffin.  Cwm,’^  Cothi, 
on  the  other  side  of  this  chain  of  hills  to  the  w.,  exhibits  similar  specimens 
of  scenery,  but  on  a  much  larger  scale.  —  B.  H.  Malkin. 

To  Llandeilo-fawr.  1  m.  from  Llandovery  cross  the  Towy  to  Blanenos, 
3  m.  3  fur.  m.  on  r.  is  Llwyn-y-Bran  HallC)  Village  of  Llanwrda 
and  church,  3^  m. ;  Maesygwden  Maesycoed  Inn,  ^  m.  ;  Abermarles,  5  fur. 
the  property  of  Admiral  Foley,  and  about  2  m.  further  on  the  r.  are  Ta- 
liaris.  Lord  R.  Seymour  ;  Edwinsford,  Sir  E.  Williams,  and  Manarahon  ; 
Caledfwlch,  3^  m.  (-1^  m.  before  Rhosymaen  is  the  road  to  Lampeter,  on  the 
r.)  Rhosymaen,  1  m.  5  fur.  (Within  1  m.  of  Llandeilo-fawr,  on  the  r.  is 
GurreyC)  Llandeilo-fawr,  1:^  m.  This  road  lies  upon  a  high  terrace, 
ornamented  by  the  groves  of  Taliaris,  and  overlooking  the  upper  vale  of 
Towy,  rich  in  cultivation.  A  distance  of  14  m.  3  fur. 

The  principal  Angling  Stations  in  this  vicinity  are  :  —  Cayo,  8  m.,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Cothi  and  Twrch,  very  superior;  both  rivers  are  full  of 
trout  and  salmon  ;  Capel  Peulin,  or  Pawl  Hen,  8  m.,  on  the  Towy. 


Back  to  Swansea.  Malkin. 

To  Brecon,  20^  miles.  Evans  ;  Skrine. 
Lampeter,  16  miles.  Skrine. 
Builth,  22^  miles. 


To  Llandeilo-fawr,  12  miles. 
Tregaron,  11  miles. 
Carmarthen,  29|  miles. 


LLANDRINDOD. 

From  Builth,  7  miles.  I  From  Newtown,  23  miles.  Wyndham. 

Rhaiadyr,  8  miles.  |  Penybont  5  miles. 

LLANDRINDOD  derives  its  name  from  Llan-y-Drindod,  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,”  anciently  Llandduw,  in  the  hundred  of  Cefn- 
Llys,  county  of  Radnor.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  not  in  charge, 
under  the  prebend  ;  patron,  Bishop  of  St.  David’s.  The  extinct  chapels  of 
Llanfaelog  was  dependent  on  this  living. 

The  fairs  are  held  on  Howey  Common,  on  the  Saturdays  before  Feb.  11., 
May  11.,  and  Nov.  11.  The  Ithon  flows  on  the  w.,  and  is  noted  for  its 
trout  and  grayling. 

There  are  several  remnants  of  antiquity  in  this  vicinity.  The  most  re¬ 
markable  are  the  Great  Camp  at  Cwm-Radnor,  in  the  parish  of  Llanfi- 
hanyel-Helygen,  called  Castell  Collen.  It  is  a  square  enclosure,  contain- 


LLANDRINDOD. 


349 

ing  120  yards,  surrounded  by  a  wall,  built  of  rough  hewn  stone.  The 
pretorium  is  very  visible.  The  camp  is  guarded  on  the  w.  side  by  a  double 
trench,  and  is  situated  upon  an  eminence  on  the  w.  bank  of  the  Ithon, 
m.  from  Llandrindod,  whence  is  a  fine  view  of  the  country.  From  this 
station,  a  Roman  road  intersects  a  ford  over  the  Ithon,  near  Caebach  ;  it 
passes  partly  through  the  fish-pond  at  Llanerch-y-dirion,  and  seems  to  have 
crossed  the  Wye,  near  Llechrhyd  Castle.  Cefn-Llys,  or  the  Court-house 
Hill,  the  remains  of  a  British  fortress,  is  nearly  surrounded  by  the  Ithon. 
Camden  mentions  it,  about  the  year  1585,  as  being  in  ruins. 

A  silver  thumb-ring  was  found  at  Castle-Garden  ;  it  was  in  the  posses¬ 
sion  of  Mrs.  Edwards,  of  Greenfields. 

The  foundations  of  the  very  ancient  chapel,  Llanfaelog,  were  discovered 
in  a  corn  field  at  Llandrindod. 

On  the  common  there  are  two  Druidical  stones,  at  some  distance  from 
each  other ;  also  several  tumuli,  in  which  human  bones,  and  pieces  of  half 
burnt  charcoal,  were  found. 

To  the  E.,  above  Llandrindod  church,  is  a  very  ancient  lead  mine,  of 
Roman  origin  ;  it  was  worked  in  17.97^  but  is  abandoned. 

The  mineral  waters,  to  which  this  place  owes  its  importance,  consist  of 
four  springs;  the  rock,  or  chalybeate,  the  saline  pump- water,  the  sulphure¬ 
ous  spring,  and  another,  called  the"  eye- water.  The  common  is  about  4  m. 
long,  and  ^  m.  broad,  surrounded  by  the  hills  of  Builth,  Brecon,  and  New 
Radnor.  Its  elevation  is  computed  to  be  several  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  The  country  is  open,  wild,  and  romantic,  and  the  air  so 
remarkably  mild  and  salubrious,  agreeing  with  the  most  delicate  constitu¬ 
tions,  that  Llandrindod  may  justly  be  considered  the  Welsh  Montpellier. 

The  Chalybeate,  or  rock- water,  is  only  used  in  particular  cases,  and  issues 
out  of  a  slate  rock.  A  gallon  of  this  contains  57  grains  of  muriate  of 
lime,  49  of  muriate  of  magnesia,  239  of  muriate  of  soda,  3|-  of  carbonate 
of  lime,  1^  of  silex,  and  6^  of  carbonate  of  iron.  A  glassful,  taken  from 
the  rock  on  a  clear  day,  appears  like  common  spring  water,  and  as  bright 
as  crystal ;  but,  after  standing  a  short  time,  a  chalybeate  taste  and  smell  are 
very  predominant,  and  it  changes  into  a  pearly  colour.  This  water  has 
had  a  beneficial  effect  in  various  diseases,  but  is  usually  confined  to  those 
which  are  chronic,  proceeding  from  a  weakness  in  the  fibres ;  also  in 
scorbutic  eruptions,  weak  nerves,  palsies,  or  a  laxity  of  the  whole  frame  ; 
in  agues,  where  bark  proves  ineffectual,  and  in  seminal  weaknesses. 

The  Saline  spring  is  about  100  yards  n.  of  the  former.  It  should  be 
drank  from  about  the  middle  of  March  to  November.  By  analysis,  one 
gallon  of  this' water  is  found  to  contain  of  muriate  of  lime  67  grains, 
muriate  of  magnesia  25  grains,  muriate  of  soda  242,  vegetable  matter  5^ 
grains,  and  carbonate  of  magnesia  three  fifths  of  a  grain. 

The  Sulphureous  Spring  lies  100  yards  s.  of  this,  of  which  one  gallon 
contains  the  following  proportions  :  —  Muriate  of  lime  54  grains,  muriate 
of  magnesia,  31f  grains,  muriate  of  soda  21 6^^  grains,  vegetable  matter 
6’  grains.  When  thrown  on  hot  iron,  it  emits  a  blue  flame,  and  smells  of 
brimstone.  Silver  leaf  is  oxidized  in  less  than  six  minutes  into  a  fine 
yellow  gold  colour.  This  water  is  well  adapted  for  an  artificial  bath,  and 
is  applied  externally,  in  chronic  diseases.  It  is  taken  internally  in  the 
subsequent  cases,  viz.,  —  ulcers,  leprosy,  scurvy,  hydrophobia,  mad¬ 
ness,  diseases  of  the  head,  stone  and  gravel,  rheumatism,  and  gouty  com¬ 
plaints.  The  scrofula  has  often  been  cured  by  internal  and  external  use 
of  this  spring.  It  is  purgative  in  its  operations,  therefore  some  preparation 
is  necessary.  It  should  be  drank,  like  other  mineral  vfaters,  in  the  morn- 


350 


LLANDUDNO. 


ing^  fastings  or  between  breakfast  and  dinner  ;  on  no  account  in  the  after¬ 
noon  ;  unless  at  meals,  with  brandy  or  rum,  or  about  half  a  pint  at  bed¬ 
time.  The  proper  dose  cannot  be  well  ascertained,  without  a  previous 
knowledge  of  the  patient’s  disease.  The  saline  and  sulphureous  springs  in 
the  grounds  of  the  Pump-house  Inn  and  Boarding-house,  are  recommended 
by  the  most  eminent  physicians  in  London,  and  their  efficacy  is  thoroughly 
established  in  the  following  cases,  viz.  —  Diseased  liver,  indigestion, 
gravel,  cutaneous  eruptions,  and  general  debility,  whether  arising  from 
sedentary  habits,  or  excess  in  vinous  liquors.  Walking  or  riding  much 
after  drinking  this  water  should  be  avoided. 

The  Eye-water  differs  from  the  former,  containing  sulphuric  acid  in 
a  combined  state.  This  well  was  brought  into  notice  by  a  blacksmith,  who 
was  accidentally  cured  of  ophthalmia,  by  washing  his  eyes  with  the  water  ; 
hence  it  is  called  by  the  rural  population,  Fynnon-cwm-y-Gof,  the 
Blacksmith’s  Well.” 

According  to  Dr.  Linden,  these  waters  were  used  in  1696,  by  the  in¬ 
habitants  of  the  neighbourhood.  In  1726  they  were  visited  by  persons 
from  distant  parts  of  the  country.  About  this  time,  the  saline  spring, 
which  had  been  re-opened,  and  the  discovery  of  the  sulphureous  spring, 
brought  these  wells  into  more  extensive  notice.  These  considerations 
induced  a  Mr.  Grosvenor,  of  Shrewsbury,  to  make  improvements  for  the 
reception  of  company.  In  1749  he  took  a  lease  of  several  houses,  repaired 
them  at  a  great  expense,  and  made  considerable  additions.  One  of  the  new 
buildings  was  large  enough  to  contain  several  hundred  visitors. 

The  fashionable  establishment  of  Llandrindod  Hall  at  length  became 
the  haunt  of  gamesters  and  libertines  ;  in  consequence  of  which,  the  then 
proprietor,  from  the  best  of  motives,  razed  the  edifice  to  the  ground,  and 
nothing  now  remains  of  its  former  splendour  but  the  fish-ponds,  and  a 
farm-house  on  the  site  of  one  of  the  old  dining-rooms.  During  the  last 
25  years,  Llandrindod  has  been  gradually  regaining  its  deserved  reputa¬ 
tion  ;  but  want  of  accomodation  proved  an  obstacle  to  its  prosperity.  This 
difficulty  was,  however,  removed  by  the  spirited  exertions  of  Mr.  Owen, 
the  present  proprietor  of  the  Pump-house  Inn,  and  Boarding-house,  who 
affords  most  comfortable  accomodation  to  the  extent  of  seventy  or  eighty 
guests.  The  Rock-house  is  also  a  respectable  boarding  establishment. 
The  neighbourhood  affords  a  variety  of  interesting  rides,  and  the  sports¬ 
man  enjoys  unlimited  range  for  shooting  and  fishing.  These  advantages 
all  combine  to  form  a  powerful  attraction  to  a  large  concourse  of  visitors. 
The  season  continues  from  the  beginning  of  June  to  the  middle  of  October, 

To  Builth,  7  miles.  Wyndham.  To  Llanbadarn-fawr,  4  miles. 

Presteign,  by  Bleddfa  22  miles.  Rhaiadyr,  8  miles. 

Llanfihangel-Rliyd-Ithon,  S.miles. 


LLANDUDNO. 

From  Denbigh.  19  miles.  Gilpin.  |  From  Conwy,  5  miles.  Aikin  ;  Evans. 

LLANDUDNO  is  a  parish,  situated  on  the  shore  of  the  Irish  sea,  near 
the  promontory  of  Ormeshead,  which  forms  the  e.  boundary  of  the 
entrance  into  Beaumaris  Bay.  It  is  4  m.  from  Aberconwy,  in  the  hundred 
of  Creuddyn,  county  of  Caernarvon.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  not 
in  charge;  patron,  the  Bishop  of  Bangor.  The  church,  2  m.  distant  from 
the  village,  is  dedicated  to  St.  Tudno,  but  is  so  inconveniently  situated,  that 
the  foundation  stone  of  a  new  one  was  laid  on  the  22d  of  April,  1839- 


LLANDUDNO. 


S51 


The  site  was  granted  by  the  Hon.  M.  LI.  Mostyn^  of  Mostyn.  A.  Worth¬ 
ington^  Esq.^  has  also  very  liberally  contributed  towards  the  erection  of  this 
new  structure.  In  183U  the  population  of  the  parish  was  662.  The 
Festival  is  held  on  the  5th  of  June.  The  vast  unconnected  rock  of  Great- 
Ormeshead,  or  Gogarth^  has^  without  doubt,  been  formerly  an  island ; 
at  present  it  is  joined  to  the  main  land  only  by  a  neck  of  low  marshes. 
Some  copper  is  procured  from  two  mines  near  the  summit  of  the  mountain  ; 
one  of  them  belonging  to  a  Liverpool  company,  the  other  to  the  Hon.  Mr. 
Mostyn.  This  elevation  consists  of  alternate  beds  of  chertz  and  limestone, 
uniformly  dipping  from  every  side  to  a  common  centre,  where  the  great 
deposit  of  ore  is  embedded.  A  variety  of  malachite,  or  mammalated  car¬ 
bonate  of  copper,  is  found  in  the  mines ;  they  also  abound  with  other 
mineral  curiosities.  The  cliffs  are  very  abrupt,  and  hollowed  into  various 
inaccessible  caverns,  by  the  action  of  the  sea.  In  this  secure  retreat, 
multitudes  of  gulls,  cormorants,  herons,  razor-bills,  ravens,  and  rock- 
pigeons,  have  taken  up  their  abode  ;  and  some  of  the  steepest  crags  are  in¬ 
habited  by  the  peregrine  falcon,  a  species  much  in  request  when  falconry 
was  a  fashionable  amusement.  This  falcon  is  of  the  long-winged  kind, 
among  which  he  is  the  swiftest,  the  most  courageous,  and  the  most  docile. 
His  prey  is  commonly  the  heron,  or  some  other  bird  which  flies  high  in 
the  air.  The  falcon  mounts  after,  and  rises  above  him  ;  he  then  strikes 
him  with  his  talons,  and  brings  him  down.  A  letter  is  still  extant  from 
the  Lord  Treasurer  Burleigh  to  one  of  the  Mostyns,  lords  of  this  country, 
thanking  him  for  a  very  fine  cast  of  hawks  from  the  rocks  of  Llandudno. 
Probably  the  vicinity  of  Priestholme,  or  Puffin  Island,  so  called  from  the 
great  number  of  puffins  which  annually  breed  upon  it,  induces  this  falcon 
to  inhabit  these  rocks.  The  hazardous  method  practised  here,  and  at  the 
opposite  rocks  of  Priestholme  Island,  of  gathering  the  Crithmum  mari- 
timum,  by  suspension  over  the  cliffs,  is  strikingly  described  by  the  magic 
pen  of  Shakspeare  :  — 

- How  fearful 

And  dizzy ’t  is  to  cast  one’s  eyes  so  low  ! 

The  crows  and  choughs,  that  wing  the  midway  air, 

Show  scarce  so  gross  as  beetles  ;  half  way  down, 

Hangs  one  who  gathers  samphire ;  dreadful  trade  1  ” 

Plants. — Upon  rocks  and  pastures  near  the  church.  Spiraea  Filipendula  ; 
under  Llandudno  rocks,  and  among  the  sand  on  the  coast,  Eryngium  mari- 
timum  ;  upon  the  coast,  Glaucium  luteum ;  near  the  Great  Ormeshead 
grow  Rosa  spinosissima,  Salicornia  herbacea.  Geranium  sanguineum,  Cistus 
Helianthymum,  Anthyllis  Vulneraria,  Ligustrum  vulgare.  Salvia  Verbenaca, 
Arunda  arenaria.  Among  the  sand  on  the  coast,  Elymus  arenarius.  Pul- 
monaria  maritima.  Convolvulus  Soldanella,  Arenaria  peploides ;  among 
the  pebbles,  Silene  maritima  ;  upon  the  Head,  Anethum  Foeniculum. 

On  an  eminence  called  Dinas  is  an  ancient  fortification,  consisting  of 
a  wall  of  prodigious  thickness,  round  the  summit  of  the  hill ;  within  are 
large  circular  caves,  supposed  by  Mr.  Pennant  to  have  been  the  rude 
habitations  of  our  ancestors.  Near  this  is  the  Maen  Sigl,  the  rocking  or 
self-moving  stone  ;  called,  also,  Cryd  Tudno,  “  St.  Tudno’s  Cradle."  It  is  a 
huge,  massive,  and  rude  block,  surrounded  by  a  foss,  with  a  narrow  path 
leading  to  it.  Here  is  a  signal  staff,  w’hich  occupies  a  post  in  the  line  of 
communication  between  Liverpool  and  Holyhead.  This  bay  is  one  of  the 
finest  on  this  coast,  forming  a  crescent,  and  affording  shelter  to  shipping 
during  heavy  gales. 


352 


LLANDDULAS. 


Two  miles  from  Gloddaeth^  on  the  shore,  is  a  singular  structure,  having 
three  windows  and  a  door,  with  a  vaulted  roof,  covered  with  pebbles  instead 
of  slate,  called  St.  Trillo’s  Chapel.  In  the  inside  is  a  well.  Half  a  mile 
further  is  the  parish  church  of  Llandrillo^  and  near  it  the  ruins  of  Bryn- 
Euryn. 

Maelgwyn  had  his  residence  here  in  the  sixth  century,  and  in  the  twelfth 
it  was  the  Llys,  or  palace,  of  Ednyfed  Fychan.  This,  one  of  the  thirteen 
residences  belonging  to  that  chief,  is  mentioned  as  the  favourite,  and  stated 
to  have  been  royally  adorned  with  turrets  and  attics. 

Ednyfed  Fychan  was  son  of  Kyna  ap  Jus  ap  Gwgan  ap  Mar- 
chudd,  and  an  ancestor  of  Owain  Tudwr,  who  married  Katharine,  Queen 
Dowager  of  Henry  V.,  having  here  a  royal  palace.  The  chapel,  built  by 
Ednyfed,  formed  the  w.  half  of  the  n.  aisle  of  the  present  church,  with 
a  small  cupola  at  the  w.  end.  That  side  was  afterwards  lengthened  by  the 
parishioners.  In  the  n.  wall  of  the  old  chapel  are  two  arches,  which  com¬ 
municated  with  Ednyfed’s  family  seat,  under  which  he  was  buried.  The 
s.  aisle  was  built  by  some  ladies  of  Conwy,  descendants  of  Ednyfed,  and  the 
last  occupiers  of  the  palace  of  Bryn  Euryn  ;  they  left  a  large  sum  towards 
building  the  present  handsome  tower.  The  cemetery  falling  into  ruins,  the 
tombstone  over  Ednyfed’s  grave  was  removed  into  the  s.  aisle,  near  the 
altar,  where  it  now  lies,  bearing  an  inscription,  of  which  are  legible.  Hie 
jacet  Dominus  Ednyfed,  and  propicietur  Deus,  Amen.”  Sir  Tudwr  ap 
Ednyfed  was  one  of  the  commissioners  for  negotiating  a  peace  between 
Edward  I.  and  Llywelyn  ap  Gryffydd ;  his  descendants,  resident  at  this 
place,  afterwards  bore  the  name  of  Conwy,  and  an  English  family  at  Bod- 
Rhuddlan,  also  assumed  this  name,  on  the  event  of  a  marriage  with  a  lady 
of  that  house.  Adjoining  the  shore  is  Rhos  Fynaeh,  or  the  Marsh  of  the 
Monks,  formerly  attached  to  the  abbey  of  Conwy. 

The  Route  to  St.  Asaph  may  be  continued  along  the  sea-shore  to 
Little  Ormeshead,  and  if  the  tide  be  retiring,  the  sands  form  a  good  road 
for  6  or  7  Ill.  to  Abergele.  At  Llanddulas,  on  the  way,  much  lime  is 
procured  and  shipped  in  small  sloops.  This  shore  abounds  with  shell¬ 
fish  and  marine  insects  ;  these  furnish  a  supply  to  the  sea-fowl  inhabiting 
the  cliffs  along  the  coast. 

To  Abei'gele,  10  miles.  Aikin.  ’  I  To  Conwy,  5  miles.  Gilpin. 

Back  to  Conwy,  5  miles.  Evans.  | 


LLANDDULAS. 

From  Abergele,  Smiles.  Bingley.  I  From  Conwy,  9  miles.  Pennant. 

LLANDDULAS,  ^‘^the  Dark  Village,”  is  a  parish  situated  upon  the  N.edge 
of  Denbighshire,  in  the  hundred  of  Is  Dulas.  The  living  is  a  discharged 
rectory  ;  patron,  the  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph.  The  church  is  dedicated  to  the 
primitive  saint  Cynbryd,  who  was  slain  by  the  Saxons  at  Bwlch  Cynbryd. 
His  commemoration  is  March  I9.  The  structure  is  small,  containing  a  very 
ancient  circular  arch.  The  population  of  this  parish,  in  1831,  was  307. 
The  YiNer  Dulas  runs  through  the  village,  and  falls  into  the  Irish  sea.  In  some 
of  the  deep  bottoms  of  this  neighbourhood,  it  is  thought  that  Richard  II. 
fell  into  the  hands  of  a  band  of  ruffians,  secreted  by  the  Earl  of  Northum¬ 
berland,  for  the  purpose  of  forcing  him  into  the  hands  of  Bolingbroke,  then 
at  Flint.  This  bay  affords  shelter  to  vessels  in  all  states  of  weather.  A 
lofty  pier  was  erected  in  1822,  with  which  a  tramroad  is  connected  from 


LLANELIAN. 


353 


the  limestone  quarries^  whence  quantities  of  that  material  are  shipped  to 
Liverpool  where  it  is  converted  into  lime.  Three  brothers^  named  Lloyd, 
in  176’7j  erected  four  unendowed  almshouses  near  the  bridge. 

Beyond  this  place,  the  road  to  Conwy  winds  round  a  vast  limestone 
rock,  called  Penmaen  Rhos,  One  m.  beyond  Llanddulas,  on  the  L,  is 
Llysfan,  and  nearer  Pen-y-Coed,  on  the  r.,  Tycroes  Penmaen,  3  m.  Four 
C7^osses,  1  m.  Mochdref,  2  m.  1  fur.  (On  the  r.,  ^  m.  distant,  lies  Llaur- 
newstenin,  and  beyond,  Llandidllo-yn-Rhos ,  Fe^'ry  House,  2  m.  1  fur.  On 
the  r.  is  Marl,  and  further  n.  Bodscallan.  Cross  the  Conwy  river  to 
Conwy,  1  m.  Along  this  road  a  most  magnificent  landscape  opens  to  the 
sight.  The  fine  old  town  of  Conwy,  with  its  gloomy  walls  and  towers, 
appears  with  the  wide  river  in  front,  and  in  the  background  are  the  vast 
Caernarvonshire  mountains. 

Every  admirer  of  the  wonderful  and  subhme,  will  be  highly  gratified  by 
A  DEVIATION  at  Llauddulas.  Immediately  after  passing  the  village,  leave 
the  great  road  to  Conwy,  and  ascend  the  mountain  on  the  1.  to  Llysfan  ; 
from  this  eminence  there  is  an  admirable  view  of  the  contiguous  mountains, 
Priestholme,  or  Puffin’s  Island,  the  Ormeshead,  and  the  hills  round  Conwy. 
By  continuing  along  the  ridges  of  the  mountains  towards  Conwy,  re-enter 
the  great  road,  at  the  distance  of  2  }  m. 

To  Conwy,  Smiles.  Bingley.  1  To  Abergele,  Smiles.  Pennant, 


LLANELIAN. 

From  Amlwch,  2  miles.  Bingley.  1  From  Beaumaris,  20  miles.  Pennant. 

LLANELIAN,  in  the  hundred  of  Twr  Celyn,  county  of  Anglesea,  is 
a  village,  placed  on  the  n.  e.  coast.  The  church  is  a  handsome  edifice, 
strongly  built  of  gritstone,  the  quoins  and  cornices  of  red  sandstone  ;  it  is 
roofed  with  lead,  supported  by  massive  timbers  of  oak,  resting  on 
finely  sculptured  corbels  of  angels  playing  on  musical  instruments.  It 
has  a  belfry,  containing  three  bells  and  a  spire.  It  was  originally  built 
by  Elian  Cannaid,  about  the  year  540  ;  he  was  son  of  Cadrod  Calchfynydd, 
who  was  grandson  of  Cadrod  Calchfynydd  Earl  of  Dunstable.  Caswallan 
Llaw  Hir,  the  long  armed,  endowed  it  with  many  privileges,  franchises, 
and  lands  ;  but  it  has  been  deprived  of  all,  except  one  tenement  of  20^. 
per  annum.  Elian  is  celebrated  in  the  superstitions  of  the  Principality. 
Miraculous  cures  were  lately  supposed  to  be  performed  at  his  shrine  in 
this  place.  This  church  is  a  discharged  rectory,  with  the  chapels  of  Coed 
Ane,  Bodewryd,  and  Rhos  Peirio ;  Bishop  of  Bangor  patron.  It  was 
formerly  highly  ornamented  with  portraits  of  Elian  and  the  apostles ; 
but  they  are  nearly  destroyed.  An  elegant  oak  screen  divides  the  chancel 
from  the  nave.  In  the  former  are  four  stalls  of  tabernacle  work,  and  an 
altar-piece  of  carved  oak.  In  the  e.  window  are  some  remains  of  stained 
glass.  In  the  Myfyr  or  confessional,  there  exists  an  ancient  oaken  semi¬ 
circular  closet,  fixed  to  the  wall,  about  6  ft.  long,  3  ft.  wide,  and  4  ft.  high, 
with  a  door,  or  hole,  a  foot  broad,  and  almost  3  ft.  high.  During  the 
wake,  the  people  enter  this ;  and  should  they  get  in  and  out  with  ease, 
having  turned  round  in  it  three  times,  they  believe  that  they  will  live  to 
the  end  of  the  year  at  least,  but  if  their  dimensions  be  too  large,  they  give 
themselves  up  as  lost  !  This  small  chapel,  connected  by  a  passage  to  the 
chancel  of  the  church,  and  forming  an  angle  of  four  points  with  it,  on  the 
s.  side,  appears  to  have  been  built  first  as  a  cloister  for  St.  Elian,  and  had, 

A  A 


354 


LLANELLY. 


probably^  a  small  bell.  In  the  church  is  the  Cjiff  Elian,  a  large  chest  in 
form  of  a  trunk,  round  on  the  top,  and  studded  with  iron  nails,  with  an 
aperture  to  admit  money.  All  who  bathed  in  the  well  deposited  their 
offerings  in  this  charity  box,  otherwise  they  were  not  to  expect  any  benefit. 
The  amount  was  formerly  very  great.  It  is  opened  yearly  on  St.  Thomas's 
day  ;  but  the  custom  is  happily  falling  into  disuse.  In  the  churchyard, 
about  the  year  1793,  a  deep  trench  was  discovered,  running  transversely, 
about  20  yards,  filled  with  human  bones.  In  1831,  the  population  of  this 
parish  amounted  to  1438.  The  festival  of  St.  Elian,  now  degenerated  into 
a  wake,  called  Gwyl  Mab  Sant,  is  held  in  the  month  of  August.  A 
Sunday  School  has  been  instituted  here.  Here  is  a  small  well,  called 
Ffynnon  Elian,  formerly  in  great  repute,  like  one  of  the  same  name  in 
Denbighshire.  AX  Forth  Elian,  the  Liverpool  pilot  boats  lie  afloat  in 
eight  fathoms  water,  to  be  ready  to  meet  any  vessel  in  the  offing ;  and  not 
far  hence  is  the  famous  Pary’s  Copper  Mine,  the  ore  of  which  is  shipped 
at  this  harbour.  A  lighthouse  has  been  erected  recently  at  Lynas  Point. 

To  Beaumauis  the  village  of  Llanfair,  is  left  about  a  mile  to  the  r. 
Passing  Red  Wharf  Bay,  the  village  of  Pentraeth  (the  end  of  the  Sands) 
occurs.  It  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  its  little  church  so  picturesque,  thut 
Mr.  Grose  has  inserted  a  print  of  it  in  his  antiquities.  Plds  Gwyn,  the 
White  Mansion,”  the  residence  of  Jones  Panton,  Esq.,  is  m.  distant. 

The  entrance  into  Beaumaris  is  interesting  :  the  bay  and  castle,  with 
Penmaenmawr,  and  the  Ormeshead  at  a  distance,  are  seen  in  front,  and 
the  road  is  shaded  with  trees.  {Bingley.) 

To  Beaumaris,  20  .miles.  Bingley.  I  To  Holyhead,  by  way  of  Amlwch  and  the  Parys 

I  Mountains,  22  miles.  Pennant. 


LLANELLY. 

From  Llwchwr,  4  miles.  Barber  ;  Evans.  From  Neath,  20  mile.®. 

Kidwelly,  9  miles.  Malkin.  Carmarthen,  15  miles. 

Pont-ar-Dulas,  16  miles.  Skrine. 

LLANELLY,  in  the  hundred  of  Carnwyllion,  Carmarthenshire,  is  an 
incorporated  sea-port  and  market-town,  situated  upon  a  creek  near  the  sea. 
It  contains  an  old  seat  of  Sir  John  Stepney,  Bart.,  which,  though  deserted 
by  the  family,  afforded  habitations  to  numerous  tenants,  till  W.  Chambers, 
Esq.,  restored  it  to  its  legitimate  use.  The  church  is  remarkable,  as  having 
two  steeples,  one  terminating  in  a  spire,  the  other  in  an  embattled  parapet. 
It  is  dedicated,  as  its  name  imports,  to  Ellyw,  grand-daughter  to  Brychan. 
To  this  establishment  were  subjected  the  extinct  chapels  of  Dewi  (St.  Da¬ 
vid),  Ifan  (St.  John),  and  Berwick,  or  Dyddgen,  chapel.  The  living  is 
a  discharged  vicarage  with  the  chapel  of  Llan  Cennych  ;  Rees  Goring  Tho¬ 
mas,  Esq.,  patron.  The  chapel  of  St.  John  was  recently  erected  at  the  sole 
expense  of  that  gentleman,  situated  about  8  m.  from  the  mother  church  ; 
divine  service  is  performed  there  once  every  Sunday,  which  makes  a  fifth 
service  now,  where  there  was  only  one  when  the  present  zealous  minister 
of  that  parish  was  presented  to  it.  Llanelly  is  situated  near  the  centre 
of  the  mineral  basin  of  S.  Wales,  supposed  to  contain  not  less  than  42  beds 
of  coal  incumbent  upon  each  other,  with  intervening  strata  of  stones,  &c.  of 
which  the  fossil  remains  are  numerous.  The  abundance  of  excellent  coal 
has  caused  the  establishment  of  the  Llanelly  and  Cambrian  Copper  Works, 
and  two  large  iron  founderies.  The  chimney  of  the  Cambrian  works  is  231 
ft.  high,  and  forms  a  striking  object  in  the  view  of  the  town.  Four  furnaces 
are  here  wrought  by  the  Clydach  Iron  Company.  They  are  all  blown  with 


LLANERCHYMEDD, 


355 


cold  airj  and  produce  about  320  tons  of  pig-iron  per  week,  from  which 
are  made  about  230  tons  of  bars,  &c.,  and  the  remainder  is  run  into 
castings  and  ballast  iron.  Strachy,  the  seat  of  D.  Lawes,  Esq.,  and 
Glanmorj  the  residence  of  R.  I.  Nevill,  Esq.,  are  situated  in  this 
parish.  The  population,  including  the  hamlets  of  Berwick,  the  Borough, 
Glynn,  Hen  Coed,  and  Westowe,  in  the  year  1821  amounted  to  7646. 
The  markets  are  on  Thursday  and  Saturday.  The  fairs  are  held  on 
Ascension-day  and  Sept.  30.  Llanelly  is  chiefly  occupied  by  miners  and 
sailors.  The  harbour  is  tolerably  large,  and  is  the  controlling  port,  both 
for  Carmarthen  and  Kidwelly.  All  clearances  and  entrances  are  here  regis¬ 
tered  at  the  custom-house. 

Llanelly  Railway.  —  The  length  of  this  line  and  branches  is  22  m.; 
the  capital  200,000/. ;  the  whole  land  has  been  purchased,  and  the  contract 
let  for  135,765/.,  about  6OOO/.  a  mile,  leaving  64,235/.  to  extend  the  line 
6^  m.  further,  to  Llandeilo,  if  the  company  please,  which  they  intend  to  do, 
as  it  is  only  estimated  to  cost  30,000/.,  and  the  revenue  calculated  at  6750/. 
per  annum.  There  are  about  6  m.  finished,  and  paying  a  good  dividend. 

At  a  few  miles  distance,  n.  w.,  is  Mynydd  Penbre,  whence  is  a  marine 
view  of  great  extent.  The  grand  sweep  of  Carmarthen  bay  appears  beneath, 
terminated  on  one  side  by  Wormshead  point,  and  on  the  other  by  the  insu¬ 
lated  rock  of  Caldy,  in  Pembrokeshire ;  the  opposite  shores  of  Somerset 
and  Devon,  forming  the  distance,  faintly  skirt  the  horizon  heyond  a  vast 
expanse  of  sea,  studded  with  vessels.  Looking  internally,  the  country  ex¬ 
hibits  a  strong  undulatory  surface,  variously  chequered  with  wild  heaths  and 
rich  cultivation.  Descending  the  hill,  appears  the  neat  regularly-built  town 
of  new  Kidwelly,  or  Cathweli ;  i.  e.  Catti  lectus.  Leland  says  Cattus 
used  here  to  make  his  hed  in  an  oak. 

Those  who  wish  to  proceed  to  Gower  will  pursue  the  straight  road  to 
the  ford  over  the  Llwchwr ;  but  the  e.  boundary  of  this  country  is  well 
worth  tracing ;  and  for  this  purpose  the  road  to  the  1.  must  he  taken  at 
Pont  Dafen^  near  which  is  the  small  ruin  of  Capel  Dewi,  with  its  mournful 
yew  tree.  On  this  change  of  direction  the  landscape  rises  into  an  assem¬ 
blage  of  beauty.  The  Llwchwr  is  a  fine  object  from  Plas  Llangenych,  4  m. 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  tributary  Morlas.  The  road  continues  2  m. 
through  the  vale  ToPoNT-AR-DuLAs,the  situation  of  which  is  very  interesting. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Llwchwr,  2  m.  e.  is  a  small  island  called  Bacchan- 
7iis,  or  Macyhny  s,  where  St.  Peirio  is  said  to  have  built  a  monastery,  of 
which  he  was  the  first  abbot. 

To  Kidwelly,  8  miles.  Barber  ;  Evans  j  Skrine.  To  Carmarthen,  15  miles. 

Pont  ar-Dulas,  6  miles.  Malkin.  Llwchwr,  5  miles. 


LLANERCHYMEDD. 

From  Moel-y-Don,  18  miles.  Aikin. 

LLANERCHYMEDD,  or  Llannerch-y-Medd,  Plat  of  the  Meth- 
eglin,'’  is  a  considerable  market-town  and  chapelry,  supported  chiefly  froin 
its  contiguity  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Parys  Mountain,  in  the  n.  ot 
Anglesea.  Its  prosperity,  however,  has  been  much  affected  by  the  opening 
of  a  market  at  Llangefni,  a  more  central  situation.  The  chapel,  dedicated 
to  St.  Mary,  is  a  spacious  edifice,  having  a  lofty  square  tower.  The  living 
is  a  curacy,  not  in  charge,  to  the  rectory  of  Plan  Beulan.  The  market  is 
on  Wednesday.  The  petit  sessions  are  holden  here.  Here  is  a  well  con- 

A  A  2 


356 


LLANFAIR-CAER-EINION. 


ducted  National  Scliool ;  also  a  naanufactory  of  snuffy  in  imitation  of  Dublin 
Lundyfoot^  but  not  likely  to  vie  with  its  Irish  rival.  In  this  parish  are 
the  extensive  woods  of  Llygwy,  the  property  of  Lord  Boston.  Amidst  these^ 
not  far  distant  from  the  road^  is  an  unusually  large  cromlech.  The  table- 
stone  measures  17|  ft.  by  15  ft.,  and  is  nearly  4  ft.  thick.  Incumbent  upon 
several  supporting  stones,  it  rises  2  ft.  above  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and 
is  called  Arthur’s  Quoit.  In  these  woods  are  several  Druidic  circles. 

Llanjihangel  Trer  Beirdd  lies  2  m.  e.  of  Llanerchymedd ;  it  is  a  chapel 
not  in  charge,  annexed  to  the  rectory  of  Llandyfrydog.  Here,  according  to 
tradition,  Cybi  and  Elian  used  to  confer  upon  subjects  of  religion.  Near 
the  church  is  a  large  pillar,  called  Maen  Addwyn,  the  Blessed  Stone,” 
standing  erect,  supposed  to  be  one  of  the  Meini  Gwyr  mentioned  by  Row¬ 
land  {Mona  Antiqua,  p.  52.).  On  Bodafon  Hill  is  the  “  shapely  cromlech,” 
noticed  by  the  same  antiquary  as  thrown  down,  and  lying  on  three  sup¬ 
porters,  in  the  lands  of  Blochty  (Id.  p.  93.).  The  table-stone  measures  10  ft. 
by  8  ft.,  and  is  commonly  called  Maen  Llwyd.  Not  far  distant  is  a  smaller 
cromlech,  thrown  down.  Between  these  appears  another,  also  deposed  from 
its  ancient  perpendicular,  named  Careg-y-Frcin,  evidently  once  resembling 
the  large  double  cromlech  at  Bias  Newydd.  Two  flat  stones,  with  several 
massy  supporters,  lie  prostrate ;  and  the  larger  table-stone  measures  9  ft* 
each  way,  the  lesser  6  ft. 

To  Menai  Bridge  from  Red  Wharf  Bay,  on  approaching  the  Menai, 
the  Caernarvonshire  mountains  unfold  their  alpine  ridge  with  great  dignity. 
At  first  insulated  summits  appear,  irregularly  scattered  along  the  line  of  the 
horizon  ;  then  the  highest  of  the  connecting  ridges  rise  into  view :  and  at 
length  the  whole  ascent  from  the  shores  of  the  Menai  to  the  peak  of  Snow¬ 
don  is  presented,  forming  the  grandest  boundary  that  can  be  conceived. 


To  Amlwch,  6  miles  ;  to  Cemmaes,  4  miles  ;  and 
back  to  Llanerchymedd,  thence  by  way  of 
Red-wharf  Bay^to  Menai  Bridge,  14  miles, 
Ailiin, 


To  Bangor,  15i  miles. 
Gwyndy,  4  miles. 
Holyhead,  16  miles. 
Beaumaris,  17  miles. 


LLANFAIR-CAER-EINION. 

From  Welshpool,  8  miles.  Evans  ;  Pugh.  I  From  Cann  Office,  7  miles.  Skrine. 

Newtown,.  11  miles.  Evans.  1  Dinas  Mowddwy,  18  miles. 

LLANFAIR,  or  Caeb-Einion,  in  the  hundred  of  Mathraval,  Mont¬ 
gomeryshire,  on  the  turnpike-road  leading  from  M^elshpool  to  Machynlleth, 
is  a  handsome  village  situated  in  a  romantic  hollow  watered  by  the  Banwy, 
a  stream  which  falls  into  the  Fyrnwy.  The  Church  is  an  ancient  struc¬ 
ture,  in  the  early  style  of  English  architecture,  possessing  little  attraction. 
Upon  a  tablet  are  inscribed  the  following  lines  :  To  the  memory  of  Mr. 
David  Davies,  who  died  at  Cheltenham  ;  he  left  by  will  20/.  to  the  poor  of 
this  parish  ;  and  directed  that  Gd.  should  be  given  to  every  poor  person 
attending  his  funeral;  1030  were  present!”  There  is  a  well  close  to  the 
churchyard,  said  to  be  efficacious  in  curing  many  disorders.  The  extent  of 
this  parish  is  7  ra.  by  6  m,,  and  its  population  in  1831,  was  2687.  The 
place  contains  a  penny  post-office.  The  petty  sessions  for  the  hundred  of 
Mathraval  are  held  here. 

To  Cann  Office  occurs  the  village  of  Llaneurfyl,  5  m.  1  fur.,  which  con¬ 
sists  of  six  townships  :  Llyssyn,  Coed  Talog,  Cynniwyll,  Cran,  Cefn-llys- 
uchav,  Cefn-llys-isav.  The  population,  in  1801,  amounted  to  920.  It  is  8  m. 
in  length  and  2  m.  in  breadth.  The  church  is  dedicated  to  Eurfyl,  whose 
feast  is  kept  on  the  Sunday  following  the  6th  of  July.  It  is  supposed 


LLANFAIR-CAER-EINION. 


357 

that  the  stone  monument  in  the  cemetery  was  erected  to  the  memory  of 
this  patron  saint.  In  this  churchyard  is  an  arched  well  called  Ffynnon 
Eurfyl ;  a  channel  of  which  conveys  the  water  to  a  spout^  where  votaries 
once  performed  their  devotions.  It  is  situated  in  a  valley^  closely  adjoining 
the  s.  branch  of  the  Vyrnwy,  erroneously  pronounced  by  the  natives 
The  fair  is  held  May  7*  A  lady  descended  from  the  Herberts  of  Llyssyn^ 
left  a  farm  now  let  for  30/.  a  year,  towards  endowing  a  Free  School.  Upon 
a  hill  near  Llaneurfyl  is  Garthen^  a  diminutive  of  Garth,  a  promontory, 
a  fort  ”  It  is  a  circular  rampart,  enclosing  an  area  of  about  70  yards  dia¬ 
meter.  The  entrance  into  both  these  strong  holds  is  broad,  and  left  open 
on  the  most  accessible  part  of  the  fort,  seemingly  so  contrived  as  to  let 
in  the  scythed  chariots.  There  is  another  small  garthen  upon  Moel-hen- 
tyrch.  Near  Llaneurfyl  is  a  remarkably  ancient  mansion,  called  Neuadd^ 
wen.  This  was  the  seat  of  Meredith  ah  Cynan,  brother  of  Gruffydd  ah 
Cynan^  Prince  of  N.  Wales,  who  served  the  Princes  of  Powys,  and  was 
termed  Lord  of  Rhiw-hirieth,  Coed-talog,  and  Neuadd-wen.  The  present 
name  was  probably  given  to  the  new  structure.  Tradition  affirms  that  its 
former  appellation  was  Llys  Wgan.  The  brook  which  runs  by  is  called 
Nant  Gwygan.  Below  this  house,  on  the  side  of  the  road,  once  stood  a 
stone,  wdiereon  was  a  cross  fleure  ;  it  was  broken  by  a  person  in  the  delusive 
search  of  treasure.  Adjoining  to  Neuadd-wen  lies  the  capital  farm  of 
Llyssyn,  in  olden  time  the  estate  of  leuan  ab  Bedo  Gwyne,  a  descend- 
ant  of  a  cadet  branch  of  the  family  of  Neuadd-wen,  whose  name  appears 
among  the  bards.  This  estate  was  purchased  by  the  Herberts,  ancestors  to 
the  Earl  of  Powis,  and  was  the  residence  of  some  of  its  branches.  On 
Mynydd-y-drum,  in  this  parish  are  three  small  meres  or  pools.  Llyn-y~ 
granwydden,  the  Pool  of  the  Withered  Tree,”  70  yards  in  extent,  is  said 
to  be  unfathomable ;  it  contains  eels  and  carp.  Llynhir,  ‘‘  the  Long  Lake,” 
is  about  300  yards  in  extent,  and  50  broad  ;  and  contains  excellent  red  trout, 
but  in  very  hot  summers  it  is  nearly  dried  up.  The  upper  part  is  singu¬ 
larly  skinned  over  by  a  slough  brought  down  on  the  floods  from  the  tur¬ 
baries  above  ;  sheep  walk  on  it  as  upon  a  quagmire.  Though  it  enlarges 
at  one  end,  it  diminishes  at  the  other  by  the  action  of  the  waves.  On  the 
N.  side,  in  dry  seasons,  may  be  seen  aflat  stone  inscribed  thus:  MET  11 
1430  it  lies  7  ft.  from  the  shore,  being  the  probable  space  of  aqueous 
encroachment  since  the  deposit  of  this  memorial.  The  bottom  of  this  pool 
is  full  of  roots  and  stumps  of  trees.  Llyn-y-Bugail,  “  the  Shepherd’s  Pool,” 
was  remarkable  for  its  abundance  of  highly-flavoured  trout,  sometimes 
weighing  14  pounds.  It  is  now  so  much  poached  that  one  exceeding  2 
l)ounds  is  rarely  met  with.  Of  these  there  is  abundance,  as  well  as  of 
fine  eels.  Twenty  years  ago  Llyn-y-Bugail  was  entirely  without  fish, 
when  the  late  Captain  Jones,  R.  N.,  procured  some  small  trout  from  the 
adjoining  river  Rheidol.  These  were  turned  into  the  lake,  then  swarming 
with  leeches,  which  attached  themselves  to  the  sickly  fish  and  actually  de¬ 
voured  them.  The  more  vigorous,  however,  enforced  the  lex  talionis  so 
effectually,  that  not  a  leech  is  now  to  be  seen. 

To  Welshpool,  the  road  is  pleasing,  though  hilly.  To  the  s.  lies  the 
chain  of  the  Breidden  Hills.  The  high  linear  of  which  rocky  mass,  is  di¬ 
vided  into  three  peaks,  distinguished  by  different  names,  viz.  Craig-y~ 
Breidden,  Cefn-y-Castell,  and  Moehy-Golfa.  Upon  the  last  a  lofty 
and  handsome  obelisk  was  erected  to  the  memory  of  Lord  Rodney,  on  which 
his  victories  obtained  over  the  French  navy  are  recorded.  The  bases  of 
these  hills  are  finely  skirted  with  wood  ;  but  the  sides  are  precipitous.  This 
mountain  is  999  ft*  above  the  level  of  the  Severn. 


358 


LLANFAIR  ISCOED. 


Upon  a  small  plain  to  the  1.  called  Cowgreen,  stands  Belin  Mounts  a  large 
isolated  rock,  appearing  as  an  advanced  guard  to  the  Breidden  range. 
Within  sight  of  this  vast  ridge  of  mountains,  Gwalchmai  the  son  of  Meilyr, 
a  celebrated  bard  of  the  twelfth  century,  composed  an  excellent  poem.  2  m. 
on  the  1.  is  Penfordd  Herbert,  1-^m. ;  Dolarddin  Hall,  on  the  r.  1  m. ; 
Hengwm,  near  which  are  some  carneddau,  or  stone  heaps,  the  use  of  which 
has  not  been  satisfactorily  explained.  Dr.  Owen  Pughe,  in  his  Dictionary, 
considers  them  to  have  served,  before  the  introduction  of  Christianity,  as 
sepulchral  monuments  of  persons  of  distinction,  and  that  afterwards  they 
were  appropriated  to  malefactors.  Middle  Sylvan,  on  the  1.  ,*  Powys  Castle 
on  the  r.  3  m.  to  Welshpool. 

In  passing  to  Montgomery, 

To  Montgomery,  12  miles.  Evans  3  Skrine.  I  To  Dinas  Mowddy,  18  miles. 

Mallwyd,  17  miles.  1 


LLANFAIR  FECHAN. 

From  Penmaenmawr,  3  miles.  Bingley.  |  From  Aber,  2  miles.  Pennant. 

LLANFAIR  FECHAN  in  the  hundred  of  Llechwedd  Uchav,  Caer¬ 
narvonshire,  is  remarkable  for  beauty  of  site  and  earliness  of  its  vegetable 
produce ;  here  corn  ripens  3  weeks  earlier  than  in  any  other  part  of 
Wales.  Probably  this  forwardness  proceeds  from  the  situation  rather 
than  richness  of  soil. 

The  church,  dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  is  a  discharged  rectory  ;  Bishop  of 
Bangor  patron.  In  1831,  the  population  of  this  parish  was  653.  It 
contains  1800  acres  of  cultivated  land,  and  about  1200  acres  of  mountain. 
The  usual  fuel  is  peat  and  turf.  The  Festival  is  held  Sep.  8.  In  a  wmod 
called  Coed  Isav  are  circles  of  stone,  supposed  to  be  Druidic.  Imme¬ 
diately  adjoining  this  parish  and  that  of  Aber,  is  a  large  tract  of  land,  12  m. 
in  length,  by  7  or  8  m.  in  breadth,  formerly  the  possession  of  Llys  Helig 
ab  Glanog.  It  was  inundated  in -the  6th  century,  and  is  now  called  Traeth^ 
Llavan,  or  the  Lavau  Sands,  from  traeth,  a  beach,  and  llavanog,  sea- 
liverwort. 

To  Aber,  2  miles.  Bingley.  I  To  Conwy,  7  miles. 

Penmaenmawr,  3  miles.  Pennant.  I 

♦ 


LLANFAIR  ISCOED. 

From  Dinbam,  2  miles.  Barber.  From  Pencoed  Castle,  li  miles.  Coxe. 

Caerwent,  2  miles.  Warner ;  Skrine.  Tintern,  7i  miles.  Wyndham. 

LLANFAIR  ISCOED  CASTLE,  in  Monmouthshire,  is  charmingly 
situated  upon  a  small  eminence,  about  2  rn.  from  Caerwent,  on  the  road  to 
Usk.  On  approaching  this  ruin,  an  effect  caught  through  the  intervening 
trees,  is  pleasingly  picturesque ;  but  the  castle  aspires  not  to  grandeur  and 
is  much  concealed  by  embowering  verdure  ;  yet,  examined  nearly,  large 
foundations  are  evident,  and  the  walls  are  no  where  less  than  7  ft.  in 
thickness.  A  square  and  two  round  towers  are  the  most  conspicuous 
features  in  the  ruin  which  is  in  part  moulded  into  a  farm-house.  A  stair¬ 
case  on  the  side  leads  to  the  top,  whence  is  a  pleasing  prospect.  The 
finest  view  of  the  ruins  is  to  the  s.,  where  the  round  tower  and  high  broken 
walls  exhibit  a  magnificent  appearance  ;  but  one  from  the  s.  e.  in  a  field 
called  the  Warren,  is  more  picturesque.  The  area  of  the  principal  court 


LLANFAIR  ISCOED. 


359 


is  employed  as  a  kitchen-garden.  This  fortress  lays  claim  to  great  anti¬ 
quity,  for  in  1270,  it  was  in  possession  of  Sir  Robert  Pagan,  Knight,  who 
was  one  of  the  jury  summoned  to  the  court  of  Striguil  at  Chepstow,  to 
determine  in  whom  the  privilege  of  house-bote  and  hey-bote  in  the  forest 
or  chase  of  Wentwood  was  vested,  when  it  was  decided  in  his  favour,  as 
the  proprietor  of  Llanfair  Castle.  It  was  also  the  ancient  residence  of  the 
Kemeys.  Beneath  the  castellated  eminence  is  the  parish  church,  a  simple 
rustic  building.  The  name  is  derived  from  Llanfair  Iscoed,  the  Church 
of  Mary  below  the  Wood/'*  The  village  is  situated  under  two  hills  of  an 
oblong  shape  covered  with  russet  herbage.  One  is  called  Mynydd  Llwyd^ 
or  the  Gray  Hill,  the  other  Allt  yr  Arvaid,  or  Wolves’  Cliff.  The  village 
cemetery  is  bounded  by  the  turnpike-road.  Mr.  Warner  gives  the  fol¬ 
lowing  stanza,  copied  verbatim  et  literatim,  from  the  stile  which  leads  to 
the  place. 


“  Who  Ever  hear  on  Sunday 
Will  practis  playing  at  Ball 
It  may  be  be  Fore  Monday 
the  Devil  will  have  you  all.” 


The  road  from  Llanfair  to  Striguil  Castle  leads  up  a  steep  ascent, 
through  a  wild  and  dreary  district,  thickly  covered  with  forest  trees  and  un¬ 
derwood,  which  crosses  the  Wentwood,  a  large  forest  containing  2170  acres, 
once  of  considerable  extent.  Issuing  from  this  deep  gloom,  Mr.  Coxe 
ascended  to  the  summit  of  the  eminence  called  Pencamawr,  “  Pen  cae  mawr, 
the  Eminence  of  the  great  Enclosure,”  a  high  point  of  the  elevated  ridge 
which  stretches  from  the  Treleg  Hills  through  the  midland  district  of 
Monmouthshire,  and  terminates  near  Caerleon.  On  reaching  the  height 
a  glorious  prospect  suddenly  opens.  From  the  midst  of  the  forest  he  looked 
down  upon  the  rich  vales  of  Monmouthshire,  watered  by  the  Usk,  dotted 
with  towns  and  villages,  and  bounded  to  the  w.  by  the  long  chain  of  hills 
which  stretch  from  Pont-y-Pool,  and  terminate  in  the  mass  of  mountains 
above  Abergavenny.  He  caught  also  a  glimpse  of  the  Sugarloaf  and 
Skyridd.  Descending,  he  reached  in  ^  of  an  hour  Striguil  Castle. 


To  Usk,  8|  miles.  Warnei*. 

Newport,  by  way  of  Striguil  Castle,  in  Penhow 
Castle.  Coxe. 

Striguil  Castle  ;  Caldecot.  Wyndham  ;  Coxe. 
Usk,  8^  miles.  Skrine.'. 

Caerwent,  Striguil,  Pencoed,  Penhow,  Caer- 
went.  Barber. 


To  Striguil  Castle,  Sf  miles.  Coxe. 

Penhow,  mile. 

Caerwent,  2  miles. 

Caerwent  Pencamawr  summit,  3  miles  ;  Pen. 
how  Castle,  2  miles ;  Pencoed  Castle,  2 
miles ;  Caerwent. 


PENCAMAWR. 

From  Llanfair  Iscoed  Castle,  3  miles.  Skrine ;  Barber. 

Pencamawr  is  a  remarkable  eminence  in  the  long  ridge  of  hills  crossing, 
irregularly,  the  midland  parts  of  Monmouthshire,  from  the  vicinity  of  Caer¬ 
leon  to  the  banks  of  the  Wye,  near  Llandogo.  The  prospect  from  this 
height  is  greatly  extensive.  The  winding  Usk,  with  its  emeraldic  valley, 
accompanied  by  numerous  villas  and  rich  hanging  woods,  appears  in  all  its 
beauty.  After  the  bold  character  of  the  foreground,  appears  a  scene  of 
cultivation  and  productiveness  of  great  extent ;  while,  far  distant,  the  moun¬ 
tains  near  Abergavenny  are  presented.  Southward,  the  view  is  alike  exten¬ 
sive,  including  a  great  part  of  the  Bristol  Channel,  with  its  receding  coast. 
Striguil  Castle  stands  in  a  marshy  field  at  the  bottom  of  this  hill.  To 
Usk  the  descent  from  Pencamawr  into  the  vale  is  extremely  rapid. 

From  the  summit  to  Caerwent,  4  miles. 

- - - ' - Usk,  5  miles. 


To  Striguil  Castle,  i  mile.  Barber. 
^  Usk,  lA  mile.  Skrine. 


A  A  4 


S60 


LLANFYLLIN. 

From  Meivod,  6  miles.  Pugh.  I  From  Llangynog,  7  miles.  Pennant. 

Llanrhaiadyr,  5|  m.Wyndham  ;  Skrine.  | 

LLANFYLLIN  is  a  borough,  handsome  market-town,  and  parish,  si¬ 
tuated  on  the  road  from  Shrewsbury  to  Bala,' in  one  of  the  pleasant  valleys 
of  Montgomeryshire.  It  was  first  incorporated  by  Llywelyn  ap  Gryffydd, 
ap  Gwynnwynwyn,  in  the  reign  of  Edward  II.  The  charter  was  con¬ 
firmed  by  Edward  de  Charlton,  lord  of  Powys.  If  a  stranger  stayed  in  the 
town  during  a  year,  paying  scot  and  lot,  he  became  free.  It  is  governed 
by  a  high-steward,  recorder,  2  bailiffs,  14  burgesses,  a  town-clerk,  and 
2  sergeants-at-arms.  During  the  last  few  years,  the  town  has  been  much 
improved.  A  neat  bridge  thrown  over  the  river  Abel,  flows  through 
the  principal  street.  The  church  is  a  modern  brick  building,  dedicated 
to  Myllin,  a  British  saint  of  the  7th  century,  and  rebuilt  during  the  epis¬ 
copacy  of  the  pious  Dr.  Beveridge.  On  the  walls  in  the  interior  are  sus¬ 
pended  several  boards,  exhibiting  lists  of  donations  to  different  charities 
connected  with  the  parish.  Considerable  sums  were  devised  by  Mrs.  Mary 
Vaughan  of  Llangedwin,  and  Mrs.  Strangeways.  In  1831  the  population 
amounted  to  I9OO.  The  market  is  well  supplied  with  corn  and  provisions, 
and  is  held  on  Thursdays.  The  fairs  are  well  attended  for  the  purchase  of 
Welsh  merlins,  and  occur  on  Wednesday  before  Easter,  May  24.,  June  28., 
and  Oct.  5.  Here  are  three  endowed  schools ;  one  for  24  blue-coat  boys  ; 
another  for  12  blue-gown  girls;  and  a  third  for  children,  who  receive  no 
clothing.  A  new  Town  Hall  was  built,  in  consequence  of  an  act  passed 
in  1775.  The  petty  sessions  for  the  hundred  of  Llanfyllin  are  held  at 
this  place.  The  only  inn  here  is  the  Goat,  celebrated  for  the  excellence  of 
its  cwrw.  Many  Roman  coins  have  been  found  in  the  vicinity,  notwith¬ 
standing  antiquarians  say  that  it  was  not  a  Roman  station,  because  the 
Britons  did  not  prefix  llan,  a  church  or  village,”  to  the  names  of  Roman 
cities,  but  caer,  signifying  a  fort  or  fence.  The  assertion  that  the  ancient 
Mediolanum  was  here,  is  therefore  generally  disbelieved,  and  is  conjectured 
to  have  been  at  Meimd.  There  are,  however,  at  Street^  in  this  parish,  some 
remains  of  a  Sarn-Helen,  or  Roman  road. 

At  Dol-y-velin-Blwm,  many  tons  of  lead  have  been  procured  from  the  im¬ 
perfectly  reduced  scoria  of  some  ancient  British  hearths.  Lord  Castlemain, 
ambassador  from  James  II.  to  the  Pope,  was  concealed  here,  after  the 
revolution,  in  a  house,  of  which  there  are  some  remains,  by  a  family  named 
Price  to  whom  he  fled  for  an  asylum.  Thomas  Price,  a  learned  corre¬ 
spondent  with  the  antiquaries  of  his  time,  had  a  large  collection  of  MSS.,  sup- 
2)Osed  to  have  found  their  way  into  the  Vatican  library  at  Rome.  Bodfach  is 
situated  in  a  valley,  admirably  cultivated,  and  watered  by  the  Cain.  The 
town  and  church  of  Llanfyllin,  happily  fill  one  angle  in  the  view.  On  the  1. 
is  the  splendid  mansion  of  Llwyn,  the  seat  of  W.  Humfreys,  Esq.  6  m. 
to  the  s.  w.  is  Llwydiarth,  a  large  old  house,  seated  in  a  hilly  naked  coun¬ 
try;  formerly  the  jiroperty  of  the  Vaughans,  descended  from  Aleth  Hen, 
prince  of  Dyfed,  or  Pembrokeshire,  now  belonging  to  Sir  IVatkin  Williams 
Wynn,  Bart.  Llangedwen  Hall,  another  property  of  the  same  baronet, 
stands  in  the  vale  of  Llangedwen,  on  the  banks  of  the  Tarat,  about  5  m. 
s.s.E.  of  Llanfyllin.  Tlie  mansion  is  of  stone,  and  was  a  favourite  resi¬ 
dence  of  tile  late  Sir  Watkin. 

To  Llanriiaiadyr-yn-Mochnant,  pass  the  handsome  mansion  of  Bod¬ 
fach,  on  the  r.,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Kyffins,  now  the  projierty  of 


LLANGOLLEN. 


361 


their  descendant  Lord  Mostyn.  It  was  formerly  a  seat  of  his  father^  the  late 
Bel  Lloydj  Esq.^  in  right  of  the  heiress  of  the  place,  Miss  Price  ;  f  m.  Aber- 
nant,  1  m.  Cross  the  Tanat,  2^  m.  Llanrhaiadyr,  1^  m.  Mr.  Pugh  re¬ 
marks  that  arriving  at  the  heights,  which  overlook  this  vale,  the  prospect 
becomes  both  striking  and  luxuriant.  From  a  farm  called  Brithdir,  the  moun¬ 
tain  GyrnMoelfre  is  seen  towering  in  supreme  majesty  above  the  rest.  Beyond, 
subordinate  hills,  and  others  intermediate  are  well  grouped.  Nearer  are 
precipitous  rocks,  and  hard  by  a  well- wooded  dingle.  Descending  the  hill, 
pass  through  a  part  of  this  fertile  scenery,  comparable  only  to  that  in  the 
vicinity  of  Pont  Dolanog. 

Angling  Stations: — Llangynog,  on  the  Tanat;  Llaneurfyl,  5  m.; 
Llansanffraid-yn-Mochnant,  6  m. ;  Llanfechan,  4  m.,  on  the  Cain. 

The  road  to  W elshpool  lies  through  a  valley,  over  an  indifferent  road. 
About  half-way,  the  deep  and  silent  Vyrnwy  is  crossed. 

To  Welshpool,  12  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Skrine.  To  Oswestry,  12  miles. 

Newtown,  about  20  miles.  Pennant.  Llanrhaiadyr,  6  miles.  Pugh. 

,  Shre^ysbury,  20  miles. 


LLANGOLLEN. 


From  Ruthin,  15  miles.  Bingley  ;  Pugh. 

St.  Asaph’s.  Gilpin. 

Vale  Crucis  Abbey,  3  miles.  Skrine  j  Bing¬ 
ley  ;  Evans  ;  Gilpin. 

Oswestry,  12  miles.  Hutton. 


From  Corwen,  10  miles.  Evans ;  Warner ; 
Skrine;  Pugh. 

Chirk,  7  miles.,  Wyndham  ;  Pennant. 
Gresford,  11  miles.  Pennant. 


LLANGOLLEN  (pron.  Khlangothlin),  in  the  hundred  of  Chirk,  and 
county  of  Denbigh,  situated  on  the  road  from  Linfon  to  Holyhead,  is  a 
lively  little  town,  embosomed  among  lofty  mountains,  and  watered  by  the 
Dee.  The  bridge,  anciently  considered  one  of  the  seven  wonders  of 
Wales,  is  formed  of  4  irregular  narrowly-pointed  arches,  and  was  erected 
in  1346,  by  Dr.  John  Trevor,  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  who  died  in 
1357.  The  bed  of  the  Dee  is  composed  of  one  continued  surface  of  solid 
rock.  The  water  has  been  known  to  rise  in  a  few  hours,  even  to  the  height 
of  the  bridge,  bearing  down  some  large  trunks  of  trees  and  fragments  of 
out-houses  ;  such  inundations  have  occurred  in  the  finest  weather,  when 
there  has  been  neither  rain  nor  thaw.  These  incidents  have  been  occasioned 
by  a  strong  gale  blowing  s.  w.  over  Bala  Lake,  which  has  the  effect  of  a  tide 
rushing  with  great  fury  through  a  confined  channel,  committing  ravages  on 
its  way.  The  Church  is  an  ancient  structure,  partly  in  the  early  style  of 
English  architecture,  consisting  of  a  nave  with  one  aisle  and  a  chancel.  The 
roof  is  of  oak,  panelled  and  richly  carved.  The  living  is  a  discharged  vicar¬ 
age;  the  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph  patron.  The  interior  is  neat.  The  e.  window  is 
well  painted  by  Eginton.  The  subject  is  Christ  in  the  garden.  Morning 
service  in  English  only  on  the  second  Sunday  in  each  month ;  on  the  after¬ 
noon  of  every  other  Sunday,  the  service  is  partly  English  and  partly  Welsh. 
The  name  of  its  patron  saint  is"  of  extraordinary  length  ;  i  e.  St.  Collen 
ap  Gwynnawg  ap  Clydawg  ap  Cowdra  ap  Caradog  Freichfras  ap  Lleyr 
Merim  ap  Einion  Yrth  ap  Cunedda  Wledig.  From  the  churchyard  is  a 
view  of  the  Dee  ;  the  perspective  is  not  very  pleasing,  being  what  painters 
term  a  study,  rather  than  a  composition.  From  this  point  is  a  good  view 
of  Crow  Castle.  On  the  road  from  Chirk  a  direct  and  commodious  passage 
has  superseded  the  necessity  of  passing  the  crooked  and  narrow  streets  of 
Llangollen.  Between  this  place  and  Corwen  all  the  steep  and  dangerous 
hills  have  been  avoided,  and  an  easy,  smooth,  broad,  and  well-protected 


362 


LLANGOLLEN. 


road  has  been  made  by  government.  In  1831  the  population  of  this 
town  amounted  to  1500  inhabitants. 

Machinery,  for  the  manufacture  of  fancy  goods  by  power  looms,  has  been 
formed  in  a  building  near  the  town,  which,  though  an  object  inharmonious 
and  unpicturesque,  employs  a  number  of  children  who  might  have  been  a 
burden  upon  the  parish.  The  market  is  held  on  Saturday,  and  is  well  sup¬ 
plied  with  butcher’s  meat.  The  fairs  are  on  the  last  Friday  in  January, 
March  17.,  May  31.,  Aug.  21.,  Nov.  22,  The  neighbourhood  abounds  with 
coal  and  ironstone  ;  lead  ore  is  only  found  in  detached  nodules.  Near  New¬ 
bridge  are  extensive  iron- works  ;  and  in  Cefn,  earthenware  is  manufactured. 

Inns. — The  Hand,  King’s  Head,  and  Royal  Hotel,  are  the  principal. 

Mr.  Pennant  says,  I  know  no  place  in  N.  M^ales,  where  the  refined 
lover  of  picturesque  scenes,  the  sentimental,  or  the  romantic  tourist,  can 
give  into  a  fuller  indulgence.  No  place  abounds  more  with  various  rides 
or  solemn  walks.  From  this  central  spot,  he  may,  as  I  have  doiie^  visit  the 
seat  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  and  the  fine  valleys  of  the  Dee,  to  its  source,  be¬ 
yond  the  great  Llyn  Tegid ;  or  pass  the  mountains  to  the  fertile  Vale  of 
Clwyd,  or  make  the  tour  of  Wrexham.”  Notwithstanding  this  opinion 
has  been  given  by  the  discriminating  and  indefatigable  Pennant,  and 
though  Llangollen  has  long  been  the  subject  of  much  encomium,  both 
in  prose  and  verse,  the  opinion  of  other  travellers  declare  that  it  cannot, 
richness,  be  compared  with  the  Vale  of  Clwyd,  nor  is  it  equal  in  picturesque 
scenery  to  the  Vale  of  Festiniog.  Eglwysig  Craig,  a  formal  range  of 
limestone  on  the  n.  e.  side,  greatly  disfigure  some  of  its  most  beautiful 
scenes  ;  but  the  prospect  towards  the  plain  of  Salop  and  upwards,  is  uncom¬ 
monly  striking  and  beautiful. 

The  principal  houses  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  are  Plds-Newydd, 
Miss  Lolly  and  Miss  Andrew;  Dinbryn,  late  F.  Cunliffe,  Esq.;  and  Tower, 
E.  W.  Eyton,  Esq.;  the  last,  a  charmingly  retired  spot,  was  sometime  the 
residence  of  Miss  Seward. 

Almost  contiguous  and  overlooking  the  town  of  Llangollen,  is  the  simply 
elegant  building  called  Plds-Newydd,  in  the  cottage  style,  fitted  up  for  the 
late  Lady  Eleanor  Butler  and  Miss  Ponsonby,  who  quitted  the  busy  hum  of 
men  in  the  meridian  of  youth,  and  withdrew  from  the  paths  of  fashionable 
life,  to  dwell  in  seclusion  and  peace,  in  these  retired  shades ;  nor  can  it 
be  matter  of  surprise  to  any  who  examine  this  spot  and  its  concomitant 
beauties,  that  a  decided  preference  has  been  given  to  it.  The  rooms  were 
allowed  to  be  inspected  by  strangers ;  and  they  are  elegantly  fitted  up,  and 
ornamented  with  drawings  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in  the  vicinity. 
The  window  of  the  dining  room  commands  a  prospect  of  the  mountains  ; 
and  from  the  study  appears  the  well  arranged  plantations  adjoining. 

From  another  window  the  tower  of  Llangollen  Church  alone  is  visible  ; 
the  plantations  intercepting  a  view  of  the  town.  Dinas  Bran  Castle  forms 
a  fine  back  scene  from  the  walks.  Nature  has  indeed  been  favourable,  but 
art  has  also  contributed  greatly.  Many  are  the  embellishments  which  have 
been  superadded,  particularly  an  elegant  doorway  or  entrance,  composed 
of  turned  wood  columns,  in  the  style  of  the  furniture  of  the  l6th  century. 
(See  an  interesting  series  of  views  in  this  vicinity  by  the  late  Samuel  and 
George  Nicholson  ;  Ackermann,  1824.) 

Lady  Eleanor  Butler,”  says  Madame  de  Genlis,  was  born  in  Dublin  : 
an  orphan  from  the  cradle,  and  a  rich,  amiable,  and  lovely  heiress.  Her 
hand  was  sought  by  the  first  families  in  Ireland  ;  but  she  very  early  an¬ 
nounced  her  aversion  to  marriage.  This  taste  for  independence  she  never 
concealed ;  yet  no  woman  was  more  remarkable  for  mildness,  modesty,  and 
all  the  virtues  that  embellish  her  sex.  From  earliest  infancy,  she  was  the 


LLANGOLLEN. 


363 

intimate  friend  of  Miss  Ponsonby.  By  a  singular  coincidence  of  events 
(which  struck  their  imaginations),  they  were  both  born  at  Dublin  in  the 
same  year,  and  on  the  same  day ;  and  became  orphans  at  the  same  period. 
It  was  easy  for  them  to  fancy,  from  this,  that  Heaven  had  created  them  for 
each  other,  to  perform  together  the  voyage  of  life.  Their  sensibility  enabled 
them  to  realise  the  illusion  ;  and  their  friendship  so  increased  with  their 
age,  that  at  17  they  mutually  promised  to  preserve  their  liberty,  and  never 
to  part  from  each  other ;  and  formed  from  that  moment  the  plan  of  with¬ 
drawing  from  the  world,  and  permanently  fixing  themselves  in  the  pro- 
foundest  solitude.  Having  heard  of  the  charming  landscapes  of  Wales, 
they  made  a  secret  journey  thither,  in  order  to  choose  their  place  of  retreat. 

On  arriving  at  Llangollen  they  found,  on  the  summit  of  a  mountain, 
a  small  isolated  cottage,  in  a  delightful  situation  ;  and  there  it  was  that 
they  resolved  to  fix  their  abode.  The  guardians  of  the  young  fugitives, 
however,  traced  their  steps,  and  brought  them  back  to  Dublin  ;  but  they 
declared  they  would  return  to  their  mountain  as  soon  as  they  should  have 
attained  their  majority.  In  fact,  at  twenty-one,  in  spite  of  all  the  entreaties 
and  arguments  of  relatives,  these  ladies  quitted  Ireland  for  ever,  and  went 
to  Llangollen.  Miss  Ponsonby  was  not  rich,  but  Lady  Eleanor  enjoyed  a 
considerable  fortune  ;  she  purchased  the  land  about  the  mountain,  with  the 
little  cottage,  and  built  a  house  upon  its  site,  of  which  the  outside  is 
extremely  simple,  but  the  interior,  of  the  greatest  elegance.  The  two 
friends  possessed,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  a  meadow  for  their  flocks,  a 
beautiful  farm-house  and  a  kitchen  garden.  These  two  extraordinary 
persons,  both  of  whom  possessed  the  most  cultivated  minds,  resided  in  that 
solitude  for  seven  years,  without  having  slept  out  of  it  in  a  single  instance. 
Nevertheless,  they  are  far  from  reserved,  frequently  visiting  the  neighbour¬ 
ing  gentry,  and  receiving  with  equal  politeness  and  kindness,  travellers,  who 
are  either  coming  from,  or  going  to  Ireland,  and  who  may  be  recommended 
to  their  attention  by  their  old  friends. 

They  possess  an  excellent  library  of  the  best  English,  French,  and 
Italian  authors  ;  and  the  interior  of  the  house  is  remarkable  for  the  beauty 
of  its  proportions,  the  convenient  distribution  of  its  apartments,  the  elegance 
of  the  ornaments  and  furniture,  and  the  noble  prospects  visible  from  all  the 
windows.  The  drawing-room  is  adorned  with  charming  landscapes,  drawn 
and  painted  after  nature,  by  Miss  Ponsonby.  The  arts  are  cultivated  with 
equal  success  and  modesty  ;  and  you  admire  their  productions  in  this 
secluded  spot,  with  a  feeling  which  you  could  not  experience  elsewhere  ;  and 
are  delighted  to  find  so  much  merit  sheltered  from  the  attacks  of  satire  and 
envy,  and  talents  free  from  ostentation  and  pride,  which  never  desire  other 
suffrages  than  those  of  friendship.  I  must  not  quit  Llangollen,  without 
mentioning  the  pure  manners  of  that  part  of  Wales.  The  two  friends 
assured  us,  that  often,  when  they  quitted  home  to  walk  in  the  neighbour¬ 
hood,  they  left  the  key  in  their  cottage  door,  though  they  had  a  considerable 
quantity  of  silver  plate  and  other  valuable  articles,  which  might  have  easily 
been  carried  away.  The  inns  of  Llangollen  are  distinguished  by  the 
neatness  peculiar  to  England.” 

Lady  Emily  Butler  died  at  Plas-Newydd,  near  Llangollen,  on  the  2d 
of  June,  1829?  aged  90*  Her  loss  will  be  severely  felt  by  the  surrounding 
poor.  Miss  Ponsonby  departed  this  life  December  9th,  1831,  age  '76.  Both 
are  interred  in  the  churchyard  of  Llangollen.  The  entire  property  was 
purchased  by  two  maiden  ladies.  Miss  Lolly  and  Miss  Andrews,  who  are 
said  to  emulate  the  retirement  of  its  former  possessors. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Dee,  about  3  m.  from  Llangollen,  upon  a  rising 


364 


LLANGOLLEN. 


slope  of  a  finely  wood-clad  hill^  stands  BrynMnallt,  Lord  Dungannon,  M.P., 
new-fronted  and  gothicised,  formerly  a  large  brick  mansion.  It  was  built 
by  the  father  of  Sir  John  Trevor,  and  descended  to  the  Hills,  it  being  the 
property  of  Arthur  Hill,  baron  Dungannon.  Sir  John  was  a  highly  dis¬ 
tinguished  and  eccentric  character. 

In  a  beautifully  retired  valley  near  Plas-Newydd  is  Pengwern,  or  Fids, 
once  tbe  seat  of  Tudor  Trevor,  Lord  of  Bromfield,  about  924,  whence  the 
Mostyns  of  Mostyn  are  descended,  and  this  mansion  is  their  property. 
Several  of  the  windows  are  entire,  retaining  their  original  ceilings  and 
arched  ribs.  An  ancient  carved  stone,  bearing  a  mutilated  inscription,  has 
been  inserted  into  the  wall.  Two  miles  further  s.  is  Llansanffraid  Glyn 
Ceiriog.  The  road  lies  over  an  uninteresting  mountain,  but  it  affords 
numerous  fine  prospects.  Descending  the  other  side,  Glyn  Ceiriog  comes  in 
sight,  and  reaching  the  straggling  village,  enter  the  romantic  scenery  of  this 
mountain  pass,  somewhat  resembling  Nantperis.  Craig-y-Felin  Deirw  is  a 
grand  object.  After  reaching  the  end  of  the  pass,  recross  the  mountain, 
and  turning  to  the  1.,  pass  the  woody  glen,  called  Nant-y-Bache  to 
Llangollen.  This  forms  to  an  artist  or  amateur  a  very  charming  excursion. 
Mr.  Pugh  has  given  a  most  interesting  print  in  which  the  rivulet  is 
introduced.  (Cambria  Depicta,  310.) 

;  Mr.  Lloyd,  of  Trevor  Hall,  erected  a  neat  modern  summer  cabin,  within 
50  yards  of  this  venerable  remnant  of  antiquity. 

Vale  Crucis  has  been  pronounced  by  several  travellers  to  be  one  of  the 
most  beautifully  secluded  situations  in  the  kingdom.  It  is  surrounded  by 
towering  mountains  and  abrupt  rocks,  covered  at  their  base  with  wood  and 
verdure.  Visit  the  vales  of  the  Dee,  the  Ebwy,  and  the  Rhydol,”  says 
Mr.  Bucke  ;  but  if  you  would  select  a  sweet  and  tranquil  spot,  in  which, 
forsaking  all  the  world,  you  would  devote  the  remainder  of  your  days  to 
contemplation  and  delight,  let  that  spot  be  the  Vale  of  Crucis.  Surrounded 
upon  all  sides  by  towering  mountains,  this  vale,  secured  from  the  northern 
blast  by  high  and  overarching  rocks,  presents  a  charming  asylum  where 
might  be  estimated  at  their  true  value,  the  pomp  of  folly,  the  ignorance  of 
pride,  and  the  littleness  of  grandeur.”  (^Beauties,  S^c.  of  Nature,  i.  209.) 
Here  are  the  venerable  remains  of  Llan-Egwest,  or  Vale  Crucis  Abbey, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  a  small  verdant  meadow  at  the  foot  of  Bron-fawr 
a  high  hill  in  the  township  of  Maesyr  Yehen,  and  2  m.  s.  w.  of  Llangollen. 
From  the  road  at  a  little  distance,  the  fine  Gothic  west  end,  embowered  in 
trees,  and  backed  by  the  mountain  on  the  summit  of  which  stands  the 
remnants  of  Castell  Dinas  Bran,  produces  a  scene  finely  picturesque.  This 
abbey  derives  its  name  from  the  cross  or  pillar  of  Eliseg,  which  is  in  a 
meadow  adjoining,  still  known  by  the  name  of  Llwyn-y-Groes,‘‘  the  Grave  of 
the  Cross.”  It  appears  to  have  been  erected  to  the  memory  of  Eliseg,  father 
of  Brochmail,  Prince  of  Powys,  by  Concenn  or  Congen  his  great  grandson, 
the  same  who  was  defeated  in  607  at  the  battle  of  Chester.  It  was  once 
12  ft.  long,  but  being  thrown  down  and  broken,  its  upper  part  is  only 
left,  which  is  7  ft.  in  length.  The  owner  of  the  land  caused  this  portion 
to  be  placed  on  its  pedestal,  in  1779*  The  beginning  of  the  ancient  in¬ 
scription,  as  copied  by  Mr.  Edward  Llwyd,  ran  thus:  —  Concenn  filius 
Cateli,  Cateli  filius  Brochmail,  Brochmail  filius  Eliseg,  Eliseg  filius  Cnoil- 
laine,  Concenn  itaque  pronepos  Eliseg  edificavit  hunc  lapidem  proavo  suo 
Eliseg.”  This  ancient  inscription  is  now  illegible.  The  proprietor  of  the 
land  added  thereto  the  following:  —  Quod  hujus  veteris  monumenti  su- 
perest,  diu  ex  oculis  remotum  et  neglectum  tandem  restituit  1.  Lloyd  de 
Trevor  Hall,  a.  d.  1779.’'  The  tumulus  on  which  the  pillar  stands,  was 


LLANGOLLEN. 


365 


opened  some  years  back^  wherein  were  discovered  remains  of  some  bones 
between  broad  flat  stones,  the  usual  mode  of  interment  in  ancient  times. 

This  abbey  was  a  house  of  Cistercians,  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary, 
and  founded  about  1200,  by  Madog  ap  Gryffydd  Maelor,  Lord  of  Dinas 
Bran  and  Bromfield,  grandson  of  the  famous  Owain  Gwynedd,  Prince  of 
Wales.  The  annual  revenues,  at  the  dissolution  in  1235,  according  to 
Dugdale’s  statement,  were  188/.,  but  Speed  makes  them  amount  to  214/. 
IS^-.  5d,  This  house  remained  in  the  possession  of  the  Crown  till  the 
9th  of  James  I.,  who  granted  it  to  Edward  Wotton,  afterwards  Lord 
Wotton.  In  l654,  we  find  a  lady,  Margaret  Wotton,  a  recusant,  to  have 
been  in  possession,  and  that  it  was  put  under  sequestration.  The  last 
abbot  was  John  Herne.  It  now  belongs  to  T.  Trevor  Mather,  Esq.  of 
Pentrehobin.  Three  rows  of  groined  arches  on  single  round  pillars,  support 
the  dormitory  approached  by  steps  from  without.  Part  of  the  chimney  in 
one  of  the  bedchambers  contains  a  portion  of  a  sepulchral  monument 

with  this  mutilated  inscription  :  —  Hie  jacet ....  arvrvi . The 

floors  are  remarkably  thick,  and  partly  supported  by  rows  of  Gothic  arches. 
The  ruins  of  the  Chm'ch  and  part  of  the  Abbey  still  remain.  The  church 
was  cruciform,  in  several  styles  of  architecture,  and  furnishes  a  specimen 
of  the  ornamental  Gothic  of  the  thirteenth  century.  The  length  of  the 
abbey  church  is  180  ft.,  the  nave  31,  the  side  aisles  13.  A  few  of  the 
arches  are  pure  Gothic,  but  those  which  support  the  tower  and  several  of 
the  doors  are  mixed  and  ornamental.  The  e.  end  is  in  the  most  ancient 
style,  having  three  pointed  windows  rising  2  or  3  ft.  from  the  ground,  to 
half  the  height  of  the  building.  Above  these  are  two  narrow  lancets 
traced  or  bordered  with  stones  slightly  projecting  from  the  surface,  and 
continue  between  the  lower  windows  to  the  ground.  The  top  of  this  end 
is  considerably  mutilated.  The  w.  gabel  has  a  semicircular  entrance  to  the 
w.  transept ;  round  tracings  above,  extending  from  one  side  to  the  other, 
under  which  are  three  pointed  arches  including  in  each  two  smaller 
pointed  ones,  and  above  is  a  marigold  window,  of  elegant  fretwork,  with 
this  inscription,  a.  d...  a  d  am...dms...  fecit  hoc  opus,  pace  beata  quiescat. 

Amen,”  and  under,  the  mutilated  date,  m.  d . ”  The  pilasters  which 

support  the  internal  arches  end  in  capitals  of  elegant  foliage,  and  the 
mouldings  of  the  arches  are  highly  ornamental.  In  the  n.  transept  is  a 
chapel  with  two  arches,  and  near  it  a  double  benetier  or  vessel  for  holy 
water.  The  area  of  the  church  is  overgrown  with  tall  ash-trees.  Ad¬ 
joining  the  church  is  the  Abbey,  to  which  the  apartments  of  the  abbot 
were  contiguous.  The  front  was  uncommonly  grand.  A  large  window, 
highly  ornamented  with  tracery,  which  reached  from  the  roof  to  the 
ground,  is  still  visible  with  three  long  lancets,  and  over  them  two  others, 
with  remarkable  pilasters  dropping  from  them.  Within  are  traces  of  a 
small  narrow  staircase.  This  dormitory,  supported  by  three  rows  of 
groined  arches  on  single  round  pillars,  is  now  converted  into  a  hay-loft, 
and  approached  by  steps  from  without.  The  cloister  is  vaulted,  and  sup¬ 
ported  by  rows  of  low  pillars,  now  divided  into  apartments  which  are 
appropriated  for  cattle,  a  farmer  occupying  part  of  it  as  a  dwelling-house. 

Upon  a  lofty  conical  eminence,  about  1  m.  distant  from  Llangollen, 
stands  Castell  Dinas  Bran.  The  structure  appears  to  have  been  about 
300  ft.  long  and  150  ft.  broad.  On  one  side  it  was  defended  by  trenches 
cut  through  the  rock.  The  present  remains  consist  of  a  few  scattered 
walls.  The  style  of  architecture  indicates  that  it  was  founded  by  the 
Britons ;  but  the  period  of  its  erection  as  well  as  its  founder’s  name,  are 
buried  in  oblivion.  Its  appellation  is  apparently  derived  from  the  Bran, 


366 


LLANGOLLEN. 


which  runs  just  beloWj  a  term  applied  to  many  rivers  from  an  aptness  to 
overflow  their  margins.  Probably  it  was  built  by  one  of  the  lords  of 
Yale,  whose  seat  it  was  for  several  centuries.  These  lords  were  the  de¬ 
scendants  of  Osborn  Fitzgerald^  Earl  of  Desmond,  who  followed  Gryffydd 
ap  Cynan  from  Ireland,  whither  he  had  retired  to  avoid  the  troubles  which 
agitated  Wales  in  the  11th  century.  In  1257?  it  afforded  an  asylum  from 
the  fury  of  his  enraged  countrymen  to  Gryffydd  ap  Madog,  who  basely 
sided  with  Henry  II.,  and  betrayed  his  country.  At  his  death,  the  king 
gave  it  to  John  Earl  Warren,  In  1390,  this  castle  was  inhabited  by 
Myfanwy  Fechan,  a  most  beautiful  and  accomplished  female,  descended 
from  the  house  of  Tudor  Trevor.  She  was  beloved  by  Hywel  Hoel  ap 
Eynion  Llygliw,  an  illustrious  bard  who  addressed  her  in  a  charming  ode. 
The  ruins  of  this  old  castle  present  an  object  wildly  desolate.  The  ob¬ 
trusive  weeds  which  fill  the  court-yard,  the  ivy  and  moss  which  cover  the 
fast  decaying  wall,  form  a  scene  at  once  pleasing  and  melancholy,  and  lead 
the  imagination  back  to  the  days  of  old,  when  this  now  shattered  fortress 
echoed  loudly  to  the  shouts  of  mirth  and  revelry.  In  contemplating  this 
contrast,  the  ravages  of  time  and  the  comparative  vanity  of  man’s  boasted 
attainments,  forcibly  strike  the  beholder. 

On  the  N.  w.  side  of  the  hill,  is  a  remarkable  geological  phenomenon 
consisting  of  a  vast  rock  called  Craig  Eglwysig,  the  hallowed  rock.”  For 
more  than  A  m.  it  lies  stratum  upon  stratum  forming  steps  parallel  with  the 
horizon,  called  by  naturalists  Saxa  Sedilia.”  The  prospects  from  the 
castle  are  very  extensive,  and  to  those  who  have  not  ascended  Snowdon  or 
Cader  Idris,  they  will  appear  very  extraordinary.  Although  this  hill  is 
nearly  600  yards  in  perpendicular  height,  two  wells  wdthin  the  castle 
walls  are  never  deficient  in  water.  If  this  eminence  w^ant  the  sublimity  of 
Arran  Fowddy  or  of  Carnedd  Llywelyn,  the  loss  is  more  than  com¬ 
pensated  by  its  superior  beauty.  More  than  50  mountains  surround  it, 
exhibiting  a  variety  of  amphitheatres,  the  most  distant  fading  into  the  clouds. 

Plants.  Upon  the  walls  grow  Pyrus  hybrida  and  Hieracium  murorum. 

Pont-Cysylltau,  the  most  stupendous  work  of  the  kind  in  Great  Britain, 
which  supports  and  conveys  the  Ellesmere  canal  across  a  valley  above  the 
river  Dee,  lies  at  the  distance  of  4  m.  on  the  road  to  Ruabon.  On  the 
way,  pass  Trevor  Hall,  to  the  1.  2A  m*?  an  ancient  residence  of  the  Trevor 
family,  and  now  inherited  by  the  Misses  Thomas,  co-heiresses  of  the  estate. 
Having  proceeded  further,  more  than  1  \  m.,  turn  along  a  road  on  the  r., 
leading  over  the  Dee,  at  right  angles,  at  Pont-Cysylltau,  forming,  with  the 
scenery  around,  a  splendid  subject  for  the  pencil, —  an  aqueduct,  supported 
by  18  handsome  square  stone  columns,  at  the  height  of  120  ft.  above 
the  surface  of  the  water.  On  a  tablet  is  the  following  inscription  :  —  The 
nobility  and  gentry  of  the  adjacent  counties  having  united  their  efforts  with 
the  great  commercial  interest  of  this  county,  in  creating  an  intercourse  and 
union  between  England  and  N.  W ales,  by  a  navigable  communication 
of  the  three  rivers,  Severn,  Dee,  and  Mersey,  for  the  mutual  benefit  of 
agriculture  and  trade,  caused  the  first  stone  of  this  aqueduct  of  Pont 
Cysylltau,  to  be  laid  on  the  25th  day  of  July,  1795,  when  Richard  Myd- 
dleton,  of  Chirk,  Esq.,  M.  P.,  one  of  the  original  patrons  of  the  Ellesmere 
Canal,  was  lord  of  this  manor,  and  in  the  reign  of  our  sovereign,  George 
the  Third,  when  the  equity  of  the  laws  and  security  of  property  promoted 
the  general  welfare  of  the  nation,  while  the  arts  and  sciences  flourished  by 
his  patronage,  and  the  conduct  of  civil  life  was  improved  by  his  example.’* 
The  navigation  over  this  aqueduct  was  constructed  from  designs  by  Mr. 
Telford,  and  opened  29th  November,  1805.  Length  of  the  iron- work. 


LLANGOLLEN. 


367 


1007  ft.  Height  from  the  surface  of  the  rock^  011  the  s.  side  of  the  river, 
to  the  top  of  the  side  plates,  126  ft.  8  in.  Breadth  of  the  water-course, 
within  the  iron-work,  11  ft.  10  in.  Number  of  the  stone  pillars,  besides 
abutments,  18.  Distance  of  ditto  from  each  other  at  the  top,  45  ft. 
Length  of  the  earthen  embankment,  s.  side  of  the  river,  1503  ft.  8  in. 
Height  of  ditto  at  the  s.  abutment,  75  ft.  The  sandstone  with  which 
this  magnificent  work  of  art  is  built,  as  well  as  that  over  the  Ceiriog,  at 
Chirk,  is  perhaps  equal  in  beauty  and  durability  to  Bath  or  Portland  stone. 
Connected  with  the  surrounding  scenery,  it  contributes  to  several  interest¬ 
ing  pictures.  This  admirable  production  of  scientific  ingenuity  is  seen  to 
the  greatest  advantage  from  the  base  of  the  acclivities  on  each  side  the 
valley.  The  aqueducts  of  the  Romans  were  more  extensive,  but  in  other 
respects,  decidedly  inferior  to  this. 

To  CoRWEN,  the  road  is  highly  interesting.  The  picturesque  Vale  of 
Crucis  extends  for  about  a  mile,  when  Glyn  Dyfrdwy,  the  Valley  of  the 
Dee,'’  once  the  property  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  opens.  The  mountains  here 
are  high,  and  their  features  bold  and  prominent.  The  river  winds,  and 
the  vale  is  so  irregular,  as  to  produce  a  continued  variety  of  landscape. 
On  the  1.  appears  Plds  Madoc,  Thomas  Youde,  Esq.  At  the  distance  of 
3  m.,  appears  LlandyssUio  Hally  the  family  seat  of  the  Jones’s,  upon  a 
woody  flat,  near  the  opposite  edge  of  the  Dee.  About  ^  m.  beyond  Llan- 
dyssilio  is  a  lofty  hill,  to  which  a  gentle  ascent  leads  from  the  road.  The 
entire  vale,  and  all  its  windings,  with  the  serpentine  Dee,  appears  imme¬ 
diately  beneath.  Castell  Dinas  Bran  seems  placed  upon  a  lower  eminence. 
The  vale  of  Llangollen,  and  the  flat  country  beyond,  for  many  miles,  may 
be  seen  hence,  terminated  by  distant  mountains.  After  the  fourth  mile¬ 
stone,  the  road  has  a  straight  direction,  by  which  a  uniformity  prevails, 
and  the  beautiful  variety  of  prospect  subsides.  About  4  m.  beyond,  at 
Sychnanty  in  the  site  upon  which  stood  the  palace  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  It 
is  marked  by  a  small  clump  of  fiirs  upon  an  eminence  on  the  r.  An  oak 
wood  is  on  the  1.  Except  a  few  scattered  stones  on  the  ground,  no 
remnant  of  such  palace  appears.  The  spot  was  surrounded  with  only  one 
deep  trench  ;  the  ground  being  elevated  above  the  Dee,  wdiich  runs  20 
yards  behind  it,  a  deep  cut  supplied  the  water  from  the  river.  The  moat 
is  nearly  square,  including  not  a  quarter  of  an  acre. 

There  is  a  gentle  elevation  near  the  centre,  where  the  house  stood. 
Here  Glyndwr  lived  the  life  of  a  little  sovereign,  in  his  own  dominions,  till 
a  quarrel  arose  between  him  and  his  neighbour.  Lord  Grey,  of  Ruthin  Castle, 
12  m.  distant,  now  in  ruins.  Their  manors  were  contiguous.  Grey  wished  to 
confine  Glyndwr  within  the  bounds  of  the  Dee,  and  claimed  the  hills  n.  of  the 
river.  This  unjust  seizure  produced  a  suit.  Owain  gained  it,  but  Henry  IV. 
succeeding  to  the  crown,  favoured  the  cause  of  Grey  against  his  antagonist, 
and  revived  the  quarrel,  which  lasted  many  years.  By  this  means,  he  sacrificed 
100,000  lives,  destroyed  immense  property,  burnt  numerous  habitations, 
and  excited  an  animosity  not  yet  wholly  extinguished.  Grey  was  the 
most  powerful  in  arms,  Glyndwr  in  stratagem.  Grey  was  backed  by  the 
crown,  Glyndwr  by  his  faithful  Welsh.  Glyndwr,  expecting  a  visit  from 
Grey,  drove  a  great  number  of  stakes  into  the  ground,  and  covered  each 
with  a  cap  and  jacket,  which  Grey,  mistaking  for  an  army  in  battalia, 
retreated.  Wishing  to  take  Grey  in  ambush,  he  ordered  the  shoes  of  his 
horses  to  be  reversed,  in  order  to  cause  the  enemy  to  think  he  was  running 
away,  which  succeeding.  Grey  became  his  prisoner.  The  descendants  ol 
Grey  were  afterwards  dukes  of  Kent.  The  room  is  still  in  being  at 
Machynlleth  wherein  Glyndwr  held  his  parliament,  and  assumed,  with  the 


368 


LLANGOLLEN. 


consent  of  the  states,  the  sovereignty  of  Wales.  As  the  power  of  England 
was  superior  to  that  of  Wales^  Glyndwr  was  at  length  subdued,  and  after¬ 
wards  lived  in  retirement.  Three  of  his  daughters  were  married  to  three 
Herefordshire  gentlemen,  whose  descendants  are  in  high  life,  i.  e.  Croft, 
Monnington,  and  Scudamore.  Owain  Glyndwr  was  the  greatest  general 
Wales  ever  produced;  the  scourge  of  the  English,  a  tormenting  thorn  to 
Henry  IV.,  and  the  ruin  of  his  country.  The  family  name  of  this  extra¬ 
ordinary  character,  was  Fychan  ;  he  is  styled  Glyndwr,  or  Glyndwrdwy, 
from  his  possessions  lying  principally  in  the  vale  of  Dee,  or  of  Llangollen. 
He  was  fourth  in  descent  from  GryfFydd  Fychan,  the  surviving  son  of 
GryfFydd  ap  Madog,  Lord  of  Bromfield  and  Yale,  whose  residence  was 
Castell  Dinas  Bran.  By  his  mother’s  side  he  was  allied  to  the  N.  Wallian 
princes,  from  which  descent  he  derived  his  claim  to  the  throne  of  Wales. 
Writers  vary  respecting  the  time  of  his  birth,  some  attaching  that  event  to 
the  year  1349,  and  others  to  1354.  He  died  on  the  20th  September, 
1415,  in  the  6lst  year  of  his  age,  having  passed  the  last  years  of  his  life 
under  the  protection  of  his  daughter  Scudamore. 

Two  m.  before  the  traveller  reaches  Corwen,  the  vale  completely  changes 
its  aspect.  It  is  destitute  of  wood,  the  mountains  are  cultivated,  and  the 
Dee  assumes  a  placid  form.  On  the  road  to  Chirk,  5  m.,  occurs  the 
famous  boundary  between  England  and  Wales,  called  Clawdd  Offaj  or 
Off  as  Dike.  This  boundary  is  often  mistaken  for  Watt’s  Dike. 

To  Ruabon,  or  Rhiwavon,  the  banks  of  the  Dee  are  followed  for  awhile, 
watering  a  beautiful  narrow  vale.  The  hills  at  length  approximate  so 
nearly  as  only  to  leave  room  for  a  most  picturesque  passage,  shaded  with 
trees.  On  the  L,  Pont-y-Cysylltau,  cross  the  new  bridge,  and  ascend  for 
some  space,  leaving  upon  the  1.  considerable  collieries. 

On  the  road  to  Llanrhaiadyb,  occurs  the  village  of  Llansanffraid,  3  m., 
situated  in  Glyn  Ceiriog ;  following  the  course  of  the  stream  for  3  m. 
occurs  the  village  of  Llanarmon,  containing  a  church,  dedicated  to  Garmon, 
or  St.  Germanus  ;  here  the  vale  becomes  enlarged  and  cultivated,  and  hence 
the  term  Dyff^'yn  Ceiriog.  This  village  lies  in  the  hundred  of  Yale.  In 
the  church  is  a  monument,  thus  inscribed  :  —  Hie  jacet  Gruffydd  Lly- 
welyn  ap  Ynyr,”  with  five  bloody  fingers  on  his  shield,  and  a  dog  at  his 
feet,  carved  upon  the  lid  of  a  stone  coffin.  In  this  district  are  many 
tumuli,  composed  of  loose  stones  and  earth,  under  a  layer  of  soil,  2  ft. 
thick,  and  a  coat  of  turf,  in  some  of  which  have  been  found  several  urns, 
reversed,  and  sometimes  a  flat  stone  without  urns  ;  also  considerable  frag¬ 
ments  of  burnt  bones.  Entering  the  cross  road  from  the  Berwyn  moun¬ 
tains,  regain  that  which  was  left  near  Llan  Cadwaladr,  1^  m.  To  Llan- 
rhaiadyr,  the  distance  is  4  m.  Midway,  about  1  m.  to  the  r.,  is  Llanar¬ 
mon.,  Mynydd  mawr. 

To  Oswestry,  the  road  lies  upon  an  ascent  producing  a  delightful  re¬ 
trospect.  For  3  or  4  m.,  the  Dee  continues  on  the  1.,  disfigured  by  a 
feeder  above  it,  cut  to  the  Ellesmere  Canal.  Business  is  little  attentive  to 
picturesque  beauty,  or  this  might  be  rendered  of  trifling  detriment,  by  a 
range  of  plantations.  Hence  appears,  to  great  advantage,  the  aqueduct, 
Pont  Cysylltau,  over  the  Dee.  The  environs  of  this  place  are  so  thickly 
bestudded  with  habitations  of  various  sizes,  as  to  suggest  the  idea  of  the 
contiguity  of  some  populous  town.  Among  these  are  Trevor  Hall,  Wynn- 
stay,  and  Chirk  Castle.  Quit  the  course  of  the  Dee,  and  enter  a  rich 
ebampaigne  country.  At  Chirk  is  another  aqueduct  of  lesser  dimensions. 
Immediately  after  quitting  this  place,  enter  Shropshire,  and  passing  over  a 
portion  of  W att’sdike  through  the  village  of  Gohowen^  soon  arrive  atOsw'ESTRY. 


LLANGOLLEN. 


S69 

To  Ruthin  there  are  two  routes;  the  first, described  as  follows,  is  along  an 
excellent  turnpike-road.  Reach  Pentre-Felin,  1  m.  1  fur.  (on  the  r.Dinbryn 
Hall,  Llan  Egwest  Abbey,  nn.)  Leave  on  the  r.  Fron-fawr,  and  Tyn-y-^ 
Pistyll,  a  little  to  the  r.  [Craig  Eglwyseg  lies  2  m.  to  the  r.)  Leave 
nearer  to  the  road  Moel  Eglwys  and  Tan-y-Bwlch ;  on  1.  Crib-yn- 
oernant,^xo\i^Bwlch-yr~rhiw-felen, to  Pentre-Bwlch  turnpike,  3  m.  7  fur. 
Pass  Tafarn  Dowyrch,  and  leave  Llandegle  1  m.  to  the  r.,  to  Faniol,  3^  m. 
Craig-fechan,  1^  m.  (-|-  m.  beyond,  on  the  1.,  Garth  Gynnan,  and 
Plds  Ntwydd.  Ruthin,  3  m.  7  fur. 

The  other  route  is  adapted  for  the  pedestrian  or  equestrian  only,  but  is 
far  preferable,  on  account  of  the  romantic  views  it  affords.  We  will  follow 
Mr.  Pennant,  who  heeded  not  the  circuity  of  the  path.  He  was  a  botanist, 
and  so  could  never  be  out  of  his  road.  He  passed  from  Llangollen  by 
Vale  Crucis,  and  after  winding  along  a  steep,  midway  to  the  old  castle, 
descended,  and  then  crossing  the  rill  of  the  Bran,  arrived  in  the  valley  of 
Eliseg  ;  this  is  long  and  narrow,  bounded  on  the  r.  by  astonishing  precipices, 
divided  into  parallel  strata  of  white  limestone  with  some  vast  yew  trees  ; 
on  the  1.,  advance  by  smooth  and  verdant  hills,  bordered  by  pretty  woods. 
One  of  the  principal  of  the  Eliseg  rocks,  is  named  Craig  Arthur ;  at  the 
end  of  the  vale  is  Craig-y-Frwyn,  bold,  precipitous,  and  terminating  in  a 
vast  natural  column. 

In  order  to  attain  the  high  road,  pursue  a  path  up  a  steep  ascent  to  the 
1. ;  about  midway,  Mr.  Pennant  visited  a  house,  once  the  residence  of 
Edward  Davies,  a  low  partisan  on  the  side  of  Cromwell.  After  con¬ 
tinuing  an  ascent  for  a  short  space  further,  he  reached  the  pass  called 
Bwlch-y-Rhiw-Felin,  4  m.,  and  fell  again  into  the  great  road.  From  the 
height  above  is  a  very  extensive  view  of  the  hundred  of  Yale  ;  after  some 
descent,  crossed  the  Alun.  Here  a  rill  arises  to  water  the  vales  of  Mold, 
Hope,  &c.  Leave  a  little  to  the  1.  a  place  called  Havod-yr-Abad,  the  site 
of  a  country  seat,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  abbot  of  Vale  Crucis. 
Close  to  the  road  side  lies  Tommen-y~Rhodwydd,  2  m  ,  once  a  fortress, 
known  by  the  name  Castle  of  Yale,  built  by  Owain  Gwynedd,  about  the 
year  1148.  It  consists  of  a  vast  artificial  mount,  with  another  still  loftier  ; 
near  one  end  is  the  keep.  These  are  surrounded  by  a  great  foss  and 
rampart,  and  have  only  a  single  entrance.  At  present,  there  is  not  a  relic 
of  the  superstructure,  ivliich  was  probably  formed  of  wood,  as  was  custom¬ 
ary  with  several  ancient  nations.  Hence  Mr.  Pennant  crossed  the  country 
for  about  2  m.,  to  the  village  of  Llandegla,  noted  for  its  fair  of  black  cattle. 
About  200  yards  from  the  church,  in  a  quillet  called  Gwern  Degla,  rises  a 
small  spring,  under  the  tutelage  of  St.  Tecla,  virgin  and  martyr;  to  which 
great  ceremonials  and  superstition  attach.  Near  the  churchyard  is  a  rock, 
remarkable  for  the  beautiful  quartz  crystals  it  contains.  Hence  he  visited 
Bodidris,  a  large  and  ancient  mansion,  belonging  to  the  family  of  Vaughan 
of  Corsegedon.  Bodidris  takes  its  name  from  Idris,  son  of  Llywelyn  Aur- 
dorchog,  the  ancient  lord  of  Yale.  It  stands  in  two  counties,  Flintshire 
and  Denbighshire.  Llanarmon,  3  m.,  is  a  village,  the  church  of  which  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Garmon,  Bishop  of  Auxerre  ;  who,  with  St.  Lupus,  con¬ 
tributed,  it  is  said,  to  gain  the  Victoria  Alleluiatica,  over  the  Piets  and 
Saxons,  near  Mold.  The  Rev.  Peter  Roberts,  author  of  Collectanea 
Cambrica,”  or  Cambrian  Popular  Antiquities,”  was  rector  of  this  place, 
which  he  exchanged  for  the  rectory  of  Halkin,  Fhnts,  where,  in  1819?  he 
died.  Sepulchral  tumuli  are  very  frequent  in  this  parish.  I  was 
present,”  says  Mr.  Pennant,  “^at  the  opening  of  one,  composed  of  loose 
stones  and  earth,  covered  with  a  layer  of  soil  about  2  ft.  thick,  and  over 

B  B 


LLANGOLLEN. 


that  a  coat  of  verdant  turf.  In  the  course  of  our  search  were  discovered,, 
towards  the  centre  of  the  tumulus,  several  urns,  made  of  sun-burnt  clay,  red 
on  the  outside,  black  within,  being  stained  with  the  ashes  they  contained. 
They  were  placed  with  the  mouth  downwards,  upon  a  flat  stone  ;  upon  each 
was  another,  to  preserve  them  from  being  broken  by  the  weight  above.  Mixed 
with  the  loose  stones,  were  numerous  osseous  fragments ;  such  as  parts  of 
thigh  and  arm  bones,  and  a  skull.  These  had  escaped  the  effects  of  the 
fire  of  the  funeral  pile,  and  were  deposited  about  the  urns,  which  contained 
the  residuum  of  the  corpse  that  had  been  reduced  to  pure  ashes. 

In  1810,  a  tumulus  of  the  largest  dimensions  was  opened  in  the  town¬ 
ship  of  Gelli-gwainan.  Lewis  says  it  contained  the  skeleton  of  a  horse 
and  his  rider,  in  the  position  in  which  they  might  have  fallen  :  near  the 
ribs  of  the  horse  was  found  a  brass  spur,  weighing  17  oz.  Near  the  village 
of  Llanai'mon,  upon  a  vast  mount,  beside  the  margin  of  the  river,  are  the 
foundations  of  a  square  fort,  called  Tommen-y - Fardre,  and  near  it  a  large 
cavern,  the  roof  of  which  is  of  considerable  height,  but  contracting  as  you 
proceed,  it  appears  inexplorable. 

The  country  now  becomes  circumscribed  by  the  approximation  of  the 
hills.  On  one  side,  in  the  township  of  TreV  Yris,  are  rocky  ledges  of 
limestone,  rich  in  lead  ore.  On  the  1.  are  the  Clwydian  Hills,  which  divide 
this  country  from  the  Vale  of  Clwyd.  There  is  a  pass  through  them, 
lying  between  the  summits  of  Moel  Eitbinen,  and  Moel  Fenlli,  called 
Bwlch  Agricla,  or  the  Pass  of  Agricola,  probably  the  military  road  of  that 
chieftain  to  Mona.  On  Moel  Fenlli^  or  Benlli’s  Hill,  is  a  strong  British 
post,  guarded  by  dikes  and  fosses.  In  1770,  when  Mr.  Pennant  passed 
Llanferras,  the  church  was  rebuilding,  chiefly  by  the  bounty  of  Mrs. 
Catherine  Jones,  of  Clommendy.  This  place  gave  birth  to  Dr.  John 
Davies,  an  almost  universal  scholar,  but  distinguished  chiefly  as  a  lexico¬ 
grapher  and  di^  ine  ;  he  was  the  son  of  a  weaver  in  this  parish,  and 
received  his  education  at  Ruthin  school,  under  Dr.  Parry,  which  he  com¬ 
pleted  at  Oxford.  Entering  into  orders,  he  was  presented  to  the  living  of 
Mallwyd,  in  Merionethshire.  He  wrote  a  curious  Welsh  grammar  in 
Latin.  He  assisted  Bishop  Parry,  to  whom  he  was  chaplain,  in  revising 
Morgan’s  Bible,  the  version  now  used  in  the  Welsh  churches.  His  great 
performance  was  his  two-fold  Cambrian  Dictionary,  in  Welsh  and  Latin, 
and  Latin  and  Welsh.  A  similar  work  had  been  begun  by  Thomas  ap 
William,  of  Trefriw,  near  Llanrwst,  which,  being  left  unfinished.  Dr. 
Davies,  at  the  request  of  the  Gwydir  family,  completed  and  published  it  in 
l632.  He  erected  three  bridges  in  the  vicinity  of  Mallwyd,  at  his  own 
expense.  He  died  l644.  It  is  evident  the  Romans  were  resident  here, 
from  the  number  of  coins  found  in  this  neighbourhood,  particularly  Denarii. 
Cross  the  turnpike-road  between  Mold  and  Ruthin  ;  after  a  long  ascent, 
pass  Bwlch  Pen-y-Barras ,  a  spot  extremely  worthy  of  the  traveller’s  atten¬ 
tion,  on  account  of  the  beautiful  view  over  the  vale  of  Clwyd.  Mr.  Pen¬ 
nant’s  route  led  him  hence  e.  along  the  great  road,  into  the  county  of 
Flint.  Within  2  m.  of  Mold,  he  examined  long  the  charming  vale  which 
opens  with  exquisite  beauty  from  jPron,  the  seat  of  the  ingenious  Richard 
Williams,  Esq.  Cambria  here  lays  aside  her  majestic  air,  and  condescends 
to  assume  a  gentler  form.  This  was  anciently  called  Ystrad  Alan,  or  the 
Dale  of  the  Alim,  a  comat  in  the  Cantref-y-Rhiw,  inhabited  by  a  hardy 
race,  at  perpetual  variance  with  the  men  of  Cheshire  on  one  side,  and  the 
men  of  Yale  on  the  other.  A  delicious  composition  is  here  presented  of 
fine  rich  land,  hounded  by  gentle  risings,  watered  by  the  Alun,  and  em¬ 
bellished  with  a  pretty  town  and  fine  church,  numerous  seats,  groves,  and 


LLANGYNOG. 


371 


well-cultivated  farms.  Among  the  former  appears  Leeswood  Hall,  unoc¬ 
cupied,  the  creation  of  Sir  George  Wynn,  rising  palace-like,  along  a  fine 
slope  on  the  s.  side  of  the  vale,  surrounded  by  woods  and  lawns,  a  splendid 
mausoleum  of  fugacious  wealth.  The  distant  view  includes  the  estuaries 
of  the  Dee,  W eever,  and  Mersey  ;  the  hills  of  Cheshire,  and  the  more 
remote  range  of  those  of  Shropshire,  Staffordshire,  Derbyshire,  Yorkshire, 
Lancashire,  Westmoreland,  and  Cumberland.  Hence  to  the  town  of  Mold 
is  a  pleasant  ride. 


To  ValeCrucis  Abbey,  back  to  Llangollen,  thence 
to  Chirk  Castle.  Evans. 

Conven,  10  miles,  Bingley;  Hutton. 

Chirk,  7  miles.  Warner;  Gilpin;  Pugh, 
and  from  Vale  Crucis,  5  miles ;  to  and  from 
Castle  Dinas  Bran,  4  miles  ;  to  Corwen,  10 
miles,  Wyndham. 


To  Oswestry,  12  miles. 

Llanrliaiadyr,  14  miles.  Skrine. 
Kuabon,  6  miles.  Pennant;  Pugh. 
Ruthin,  15  miles. 

Wrexham,  12  miles. 


LLANGYNOG. 


From  Bala,  11  miles.  Bingley. 

Llanrhaiadyr-yn-Mochnant,  4a  m.  Aikin. 
Mr.  Pennant  passed  from  Downing  fo  this  place. 


on  commencing  his  3d  excursion  in  N. 
Wales  ;  where  he  began  his  account. 
From  Carmarthen,  7  miles. 


LLANGYNOG  is  a  small  parish,  in  the  hundred  of  Llanfyllin,  and 
county  of  Montgomery.  The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Cynog,  of  whom 
Cressy  says,  “■  the  fame  of  his  sanctity  was  most  eminent  among  the 
Silures.’'  He  was  murdered  on  the  Van,  in  the  parish  of  Merthyr  Cynog 
Brecknock.  The  living  is  a  discharged  rectory  ;  the  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph, 
patron.  In  1831,  the  population  of  this  parish  was  499 j  his  4  m.  square. 
The  scenery  here  is  strikingly  diversified,  abounding  with  features  of 
picturesque  beauty  and  rugged  grandeur.  The  village  is  situated  in  a 
pleasing  slip  of  fertile  land,  above  which  rises  a  stupendous  rock  of  coarse 
slate,  abounding  with  white  opaque  amorphous  quartz,  in  which  are  found 
considerable  quantities  of  lead  and  calamine ;  these  are  sent  in  their  raw 
state  to  the  founderies  near  Ruabon.  Some  of  these  slabs  contain  beautiful 
cubes  of  mundic.  None  of  the  shafts,  however,  run  to  any  considerable 
depth.  The  great  lead  mine,  Craig-y-mwyn,  was  discovered  in  16'92;  the 
vein  of  ore  was  5  yards  in  breadth,  and  afforded,  during  40  years,  a 
clear  annual  revenue  of  20,000/.  It  is  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Powis. 
At  the  depth  of  90  yards,  the  water  broke  in,  which  caused  the  undertaking 
to  be  given  up.  It  is  situated  24  m.  fro'm  the  village,  in  the  mountainous 
ridge  which  divides  the  vales  of  Rhaiadyr  and  Tannat.  It  was  afterwards 
leased  by  a  company,  who  drove  a  level  beneath  it.  Masses  of  pure  ore, 
from  70  to  100 lbs.  each,  were  occasionally  found,  but  the  works  were  again 
discontinued.  It  was,  in  1832,  again  re-opened  with  better  success,  by 
the  aid  of  machinery, wrought  by  a  stream  of  water,  brought  from  a  distance 
of  7  ni.,  at  very  considerable  expense.  At  Craig-y-Gryhni,  in  this  parish, 
are  other  quarries  of  excellent  blue  slate. 

Opposite  the  first-mentioned  lead  mines,  on  the  other  side  of  the  village, 
rises,  almost  perpendicularly,  the  lofty  rock  of  Llangynog,  from  which  is 
obtained  a  considerable  quantity  of  coarse  slates  ;  they  are  brought  down  in 
a  very  singular  manner.  The  vehicle  of  conveyance  is  a  small  sledge, 
containing  3  or  4  cwt.  of  slate;  on  the  fore  part  of  it  is  fastened  a  short 
rope  by  each  end.  When  loaded  and  drawn  to  the  edge  of  the  declivity, 
a  man  places  himself  before  it,  with  the  rope  round  his  shoulders,  then 
sitting  upon  the  sledge,  and  seizing  hold  of  the  front,  he  raises  his  feet 

B  B  2 


S72 


LLANGYNOG. 


from  the  ground,  when  tlie  load  and  its  conductor  begin  to  descend  along 
a  narrow  winding  path.  The  motion  accelerates,  and  the  conductor  of  this 
conveyance  has  to  govern  its  increasing  velocity,  and  to  keep  it  in  its 
proper  path,  by  opposing  his  feet  to  the  ground  and  projecting  parts  of  the 
rocks.  The  least  inattention,  or  want  of  dexterity,  would  be  certain  de¬ 
struction.  Yet  this  man  makes  these  journeys  four  or  five  times  a  day 
for  the  scanty  sum  of  twopence  a  time. 

From  Llangynog,  Mr.  Pennant  turned  up  a  valley  to  the  r.,  to  the 
shrine  of  St,  Monacella,  or  Melangell,  who  was  interred  in  the  neighbour¬ 
ing  church,  called  Pennant  Melangell.  The  legend  of  this  saint  is  perpe¬ 
tuated  by  some  rude  wooden  carvings  of  hares  in  the  act  of  scuttling  to  her 
for  protection.  She  became  their  patroness.  Previous  to  the  sixteenth 
century,  no  person  would  kill  a  hare  in  the  parish  ;  and  since,  when  a  hare 
was  pursued  by  dogs,  it  was  firmly  believed,  that  if  any  one  cried,  God 
and  St.  Monacella  be  with  thee,”  it  was  certain  to  escape.  In  the  church¬ 
yard  is  a  stone,  bearing  the  figure  of  an  armed  man,  which  now  serves  as 
a  common  gravestone,  but  once  covered  the  remains  of  the  eldest  son  of 
Owain  Gw^ynedd,  Jorwerth  Drwyndwn.  Tradition  says  he  was  killed  not 
far  hence,  at  a  place  called  Bwlch  Croes  Jorwerth,  The  valley  is  exceed¬ 
ingly  picturesque,  enclosed  by  hills  on  aU  sides,  except  its  entrance  ;  and 
watered  by  the  Tanat,  which  rises  not  far  distant ;  this  stream  is  celebrated 
for  its  delicious  trout.  On  this  river  it  is  supposed  the  Roman  station  of 
Mediolanum  w'as  placed.  The  upper  end  is  bounded  by  two  vast  preci¬ 
pices  ;  between  them  juts  out  the  rude  promontory  of  Moel-du-mawr. 
On  the  side  of  this  valley  is  Llechweddgarth. 

The  New  Inn  affords  tolerable  accommodation.  A  pretty  retired  little 
church  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  valley.  Its  interior  is  plain  and 
naked.  Here  is  shown  a  large  bone,  the  pretended  rib  of  a  great  giant. 
On  returning,  cross  the  river,  skirt  Moel-du-Fawr,  and  ascend  the  heights 
facii]g  it,  in  order  to  obtain  an  extensive  view  of  the  whole  valley.  “  The 
white  walls  of  the  little  church,”  says  Mr.  Pugh,  glittered  betw'een  the 
trees,  while  other  numerous  objects  kept  me  rivetted  to  the  spot ;  necessity 
alone  obliged  me  to  quit  a  scene,  than  which  the  most  fertile  imagination 
can  scarcely  paint  a  sweeter.”  On  the  n.  is  Llechweddgarth,  the  occasional 
residence  of  Thomas  Thomas,  Esq.,  of  Downing,  near  Holywell,  whose 
daughter  married  Hugh  Davies  Griffith,  Esq.,  of  Caer-Rhun,  Caernarvon¬ 
shire,  who,  in  consequence,  inherited  this  estate. 

The  road  to  Bala  hence  lies  along  the  pleasing  vale  of  Llangynog, 
enclosed  on  all  sides  by  the  Berwyn  Mountains.  This  ridge  occupies  the 
E.  side  of  Merionethshire,  and  branches  into  Denbighshire  and  Montgo¬ 
meryshire  ;  its  N.  boundary  is  the  Dee,  its  s.  the  Tanat.  From  n.  to 
s.,  its  length  is  l6  m.,  its  breadth  from  e.  to  w.  varies  from  5  to  10  m. 
Cadair  Ferwyn  is  near  the  s.,  and  Cadair  Fronwyn  near  the  n.  extremity, 
and  are  the  most  elevated  points.  The  road  runs  along  the  side  of  the 
hills,  considerably  above  the  level  of  the  valley,  which,  at  the  distance  of  3 
m.,  ascends  from  the  vale,  and  is  carried  for  7  m.  across  the  Berwyn  Moun¬ 
tains.  At  length  the  traveller  attains  the  brow  of  a  hill,  whence  the  Vale 
of  the  Dee,  is  overlooked,  affording  a  most  delightful  view.  An  easy 
descent  leads  to  Llandderfel,  a  small  village,  beautifully  situated  on  the 
river  side.  Crossing  the  bridge,  and  meeting  the  stream,  the  prospect  is 
grand,  in  which  the  cloudy  summits  of  Aran-hen-Llyn,  and  Aran-fowddy, 
soaring  to  a  vast  height,  form  the  extreme  boundary.  The  nearer  part  is 
filled  on  one  side  with  wooded  hills,  contrasting  with  a  rugged  slate  rock 
on  the  other,  between  which  rolls  the  dusky  Dee. 


LLANILLTYD. 


373 


Mr.  Pugh  did  not  proceed  to  Llandderfel,  but  leaving  the  infant  Tanat, 
celebrated  for  its  delicious  trout^  he  entered  the  enchanting  vale  of  Pennant. 
Glanyrafon,  1-i-  m.,  Minfordd^  1  m.  The  next  mile  is  called  Milltb' 
Geirig,  or  the  Stony  Mile.  The  beauties  of  the  luxuriant  vale  of  Edyrnion 
are  next  unfolded.  The  high  peak  on  the  1.  is  called  Moelcwn  Safnllwyd, 
on  which  is  a  small  house^  belonging  to  Bell  Lloyd^  Esq.  Cadair  Fronwen 
lies  much  to  the  r.  of  this  road^  not  visible.  Cadair  Ferwyn  joins  it^  but 
is  not  so  high.  Coming  to  the  edge  of  the  hill,  Drym-y-Sarn,  2  m.,  pro¬ 
duces  an  enchanting  prospect  of  the  remote  prominences  of  Merioneth. 
The  Artenig,  and  nearer  mountains,  show  their  craggy  points.  On  quitting 
this  summit,  descend  into  a  richly  wooded  bottom,  and  follow  a  beautiful 
and  well  cultivated  country,  to  a  romantic  little  bridge  of  one  arch,  called 
Pont-y-Cennant,  over  a  mountain  stream,  which  falls  into  the  Dee  below. 
On  the  1.  is  Rhiw-waedog,  the  Bloody  Brow,”  an  antiquated  mansion 
belonging  to  the  Dolbens,  4  m.  Upon  the  height,  above  the  house,  was 
fought  an  obstinate  battle,  between  Llywarch  Hen,  and  the  Saxons  ;  in 
which  his  only  surviving  son,  Cynddelw,  was  slain.  Not  far  distant  is 
Pabell  Llywarch  Hen,  where  he  wrote  an  affecting  elegy  on  the  loss  of 
twenty-three  of  his  twenty-four  sons.  Passing  Pen-y-hont  Bridge,  at 
the  influx  of  Pimble  Meer  into  the  Dee,  enter  Bala,  14  m* 


To  Llanrhaiadyr,  4|  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Bingley. 
Bala,  11  miles.  Aikin. 


To  Llanfyllin,  8  miles.  Pennant. 


LLANHAIARN.  See  Beddgelart. 


LLANILLTYD. 

From  Dolgelly,  2  miles.  Aikin  ;  Pugh.  J  From  Harlech,  through  Barmouth,  19  miles.  Pugh. 

LLANILLTYD  is  a  flourishing  village,  in  the  hundred  of  Ardudwy, 
Merionethshire,  containing  several  good  houses,  beautifully  situated  on  the 
river  Mawddach  or  Maw,  and  on  the  road  to  Barmouth.  This  parish 
extends  4  or  5  m.  in  different  directions  from  the  church,  which  is  dedi¬ 
cated  to  St.  Illtyd,  and  contains  some  good  monuments.  The  living  is  a 
perpetual  curacy,  and  the  population,  in  1831,  was  41 6.  Here  is  a  handsome 
bridge  of  several  arches,  near  which  is  a  dock  where  are  built  vessels  of 
60  to  100  tons  each.  Copper  ore  abounds  in  this  district,  of  which  there 
is  a  productive  mine  at  Cain  Mawr.  The  Calvinistic  Methodists  have  a 
Sunday  School  attached  to  their  place  of  worship.  The  Castle  is  so  totally 
eradicated  that  its  site  is  unknown.  This  place  serves  as  a  port  to  Dol¬ 
gelly.  On  the  river  side  are  lime-kilns.  Further  down  is  a  forge,  beyond 
which  a  prospect  opens,  which,  for  beauty  and  picturesque  effect,  can 
scarcely  be  equalled.  The  wide  estuary  of  the  Mawddach  appears  in 
front,  and  is  frequently  enlivened  by  a  barge  or  pleasure-boat ;  the  banks 
on  each  side  running  out  alternately  in  steep  promontories,  wooded  to  the 
water’s  edge,  so  as  completely  to  hide  the  termination  of  the  river,  and 
cause  it  to  resemble  a  broad  and  beautiful  lake  ;  while  on  the  s,,  from 
behind  the  banks,  rise  abruptly  the  vast  and  craggy  cliffs  which  surround 
and  almost  conceal  the  summit  of  Cader  Idris. 

At  the  distance  of  2  m.  stands  Cymmer  Abbey,  in  \Yelsh  Y-Vaenor.  The 

B  B  3 


374 


LLANILLTYD. 


choir  of  the  church  is  uncommonly  narrow.  It  contains  numerous  remains 
of  arches^  pillars^  &c.  The  e.  end  presents  a  handsome  window,  con¬ 
sisting  of  three  lancet  lights,  and  three  others  above  mantled  with  ivy. 
The  adjoining  farm-house  consists  of  the  remains  of  the  refectory,  &c. 
This  abbey,  of  Cistercian  order,  was  founded  by  the  princes  Gryffydd  and 
Meredydd,  sons  of  Howell  and  Conan,  about  1 1 98.  Llywelyn  ah  Jorwerth 
granted  it  a  charter  in  1209^  which  gave  to  Esau,  then  the  lord  abbot,  and 
others  of  the  house,  great  latitude  of  dominion.  Elizabeth  afterwards 
granted  it  to  Robert  Earl  of  Leicester, 

JVannau  Hall,  the  seat  of  Sir  Robert  Williams  Vaughan,  Bart.,  lies  at 
the  distance  of  2  m.,  upon  an  elevation  of  639  fb  above  high-water  mark. 
These  heights  command  very  extensive  prospects.  The  scenery  of  this 
district  has  been  greatly  improved  by  the  present  proprietor,  who  planted 
more  than  a  million  of  trees  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Cymmer 
Abbey. 

From  this  place  Mr.  Pugh  made  an  excursion  of  50  m.,  sleeping  at 
Drws-y-Nant  the  first  night;  at  Llanuwchliyn,  near  the  s, w.  end  of  Bala 
Lake,  the  second  night,  turning  to  Llanilltyd  the  third  day.  He  found  the 
country  dull  for  2  or  3  m.  till  he  reached  Pont  Newydd,  a  bridge  of  one 
arch  over  the  Arran.  Advancing  up  the  hills,  he  came  to  a  waterfall 
called  Rhaiadyr  Helygog,  ‘Miitherto,”  he  says,  unnoticed  by  any  tourist.” 
The  approach  was  difficult,  but  he  was  amply  compensated.  Mr.  H. 
Hughes,  of  Gian  Conwy,  author  of  the  “  Beauties  of  Cambria,”  a  work 
containing  60  views  of  the  most  interesting  objects  in  the  Principality,  has 
given  a  print  of  these  falls.  It  is  no  more  than  a  tribute  of  justice  due 
to  talent  and  exertion  to  say  that  these  prints,  from  engravings  upon 
wood,  are,  both  as  regards  faithful  delineation,  effect  and  delicacy,  equal  to 
any  that  has  hitherto  been  produced.  He  thus  describes  these  falls :  — • 
Nant  Helygog  is  a  tremendous  dingle,  thickly  wooded  on  both  sides, 
excepting  where  the  bare  rock  appears,  and  forms  a  perpendicular.  The 
river  rises  3  m.  to  the  s.e.  upon  a  hill  called  Bryn  Forchog.  In  its  passage 
through  this  nant,  it  has  several  falls  and  some  of  considerable  height. 
The  upper  one  is  54  ft.,  the  next  21,  and  the  low^est  17.  About  ^  m. 
farther,  it  runs  into  the  Wnion,  which  again  joins  the  Mawddach  at  Llan- 
illtydd.  The  land  upon  one  side  of  Nant  Helygog  is  the  property  of  the 
Lord  Chief  Baron  (Richards).  His  seat,  called  Caerynwch,  is  situated  in  a 
beautiful  vale  upon  the  banks  of  the  Clywedog,  about  2  m.  to  the  s  w.  of 
the  Ysgwd.  There  are  two  mountains  of  considerable  celebrity  in  this 
vicinity.  The  summit  of  Arran  Fo-wddwyis  5  m.  to  the  e.,  and  Arran 
Benllyn,  called  by  Mr.  Pennant,  Arrenig  Fawr,  is  about  1  m  further,  nearly 
in  the  same  direction.”  Recross  the  Arran,  reach  Blaen,  the  residence  of 
Rice  Jones  Owen,  Esq.  In  these  grounds  is  a  large  oak  occupying 
100  feet  in  circumference,  within  the  decayed  body  of  which  grows  a 
birch.  Cader  Idris  is  a  prominent  object  from  this  house,  and  in  the 
vicinity  is  a  considerable  waterfall.  Returning  to  the  valley  below  is  a 
small  inn,  called  Drws-yr~Nant,  sufficiently  convenient  to  a  solitary  pe¬ 
destrian  who  wants  but  little,  nor  wants  that  little  long.”  Proceed  2  m. 
along  a  fine  wooded  valley,  through  which  flows  the  Arran.  The  scenery 
resembles  that  of  Dol-y-Melynllyn.  Leaving  the  road,  IMr.  Pugh  ascended 
a  considerable  height  among  the  hills,  whence  he  had  a  delightful  view  of 
Cader  Idris,  From  lower  situations  not  distant  from  the  road,  the  sce¬ 
nery  is  also  fine.  A  little  further,  the  country  begins  to  open.  Close  to 
a  sm.all  farm-house,  called  Pont  Gwyn,  are  two  small  springs,  sources  of 
the  celebrated  Dee.  Spenser  has  made  a  mistake  respecting  the  rise  of 


LLANILLTYD. 


375 


this  river  (see  Faery  Queen,  b.  i.  c.  ix.).  From  one  side  of  this  house  the 
eave-drops  fall  into  the  Dee,  from  the  other  into  the  Arran,  resembling  a 
chapel  near  Burtatingen  in  Austria,  from  which  the  rain  on  one  side  falls 
into  the  Danube,  and  on  the  other  into  the  Rhine.  At  a  short  distance  is 
the  famous  fountain  called  Ffynnon  Brynnon-hryn-yr-Eirch.  Hence  may 
be  had  a  near  view  of  Llyn  Tegid,  stretching  4  m.  LlanuwcliUyn  is  a 
poor  village,  s.  w.  of  the  lake  of  Bala,  1  m.  It  affords  a  public-house  and 
reasonable  accommodations.  Llyn  Llymhren  is  a  small  lake  under  the 
side  of  Arran  Benllyn,  3  m.  Proceeding  along  the  side  of  rocks,  a  guide 
whom  Mr.  Pugh  engaged  at  a  farm-house,  showed  him  the  famed  path 
along  the  precipitous  side  of  Arran  Benllyn,  which  tradition  says  a  certain 
man  named  Elise  passed  upon  horseback ;  it  is  hence  called  Llwybir- 
Elise.  Llyn  Dyfi  is  a  handsome  lake,  the  source  of  the  Dovey,  under  the 
high  peak  of  Arran  Mowddwy,  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  Wales, 
whence  are  extensive  views.  Descend  by  the  side  of  the  rivulet  to  the 
Mowddwy  road,  to  a  very  romantic  hollow  called  Llaeth  Nant.  The  fuel 
in  this  district  is  entirely  peat,  brought  by  the  inhabitants  from  precipitous 
mountains  upon  hurdles.  Llan-y -Mowddwy  is  a  small  village  affording 
no  accommodation  to  the  weary  traveller.  A  picturesque  hamlet  in  a 
dingle  leads  to  Dinas  Mowddwy. 

The  road  to  Mabntwrog  lies  n.  up  the  vale  of  the  Maw.  The  river 
assumes  the  character  of  a  wide  mountain  torrent,  dashing  over  the  ine¬ 
qualities  of  a  rocky  channel,  and  shaded  by  the  fine  hanging  woods  of 
Nannau  Park,  Sir  Robert  W.  Vaughan,  (remarkable  for  its  very  small  but 
excellent  venison,)  which  overspread  the  steep  declivity  of  the  rocks  on  the 
r.,  with  deep  and  varied  foliage.  The  mansion  is  elegant,  in  which 
remains  unimpaired  the  hospitality  of  auld  lang  syne,”  and  is  said  to  be 
the  most  elevated  residence  of  the  kind  in  Great  Britain.  At  Pont-ar-Garfa, 
or  the  union  of  the  Garfa  with  the  Maw,  are  beautiful  cascades ;  these 
however,  are  only  introductory  to  the  scenes  of  grandeur  profusely  dis¬ 
tributed  about  2  m.  higher  up  the  Maw,  resembling  the  romantic  views 
about  the  Devil’s  Bridge.  Soon  after  catch  a  view  of  Dol-y-melynllyn 
Cottage,  the  property  of  W.  A.  Maddocks,  Esq.  It  is  partly  situated 
among  plantations  or  natural  groves  of  oak,  backed  by  rugged  and  almost 
perpendicular  rocks.  After  crossing  a  bridge  ascend  on  the  1.  a  convenient 
footpath  cut  through  wmods  and  rocks.  Proceeding  some  distance,  catch  a 
partial  view  of  Rhaiadyr-Du,  more  commonly  called  Dol-y-melynllyn 
waterfall ;  then  cross  an  alpine  bridge  thrown  over  the  stream,  and  pursuing 
the  windings  of  a  rugged  path  on  the  r.,  reach  the  top  of  the  rocks  whence 
the  river  is  precipitated.  The  water  being  obstructed  by  a  projecting  part 
of  the  rock  in  the  centre,  forms  two  sheets  which  afterwards  unite  and  fall 
into  a  large  and  deep  basin.  Regaining  the  road,  crossing  a  lofty  slate 
mountain,  and  descending  on  the  r.  towards  the  river,  the  tourist  follows  a 
wild  path,  sometimes  hidden  among  trees,  at  other  times  skirting  the  edge 
of  the  wood,  and  arrives  at  Pistyl-y-Cain,  a  single  sheet  of  water  consisting 
of  the  whole  current  of  the  river  Cain,  dashing  down  into  a  deep  and 
rocky  basin.  When  seen  from  below,  it  appears  to  great  advantage.  The 
water  falls  into  a  deep  glen  bounded  by  steep  rocky  sides,  shaded  by  old 
oaks,  crowned  with  pendent  birches,  and  interspersed  with  young  trees  and 
a  profusion  of  thick  underwood,  planted  in  a  very  happy  style  of  studied 
negligence.  The  neighbouring  fall  of  the  Mawddach  is  two  or  three 
hundred  yards  distant  from  this  place ;  it  presents  the  same  enchanting 
style,  but  is  more  open  to  the  light,  and  the  water  descends  into  a  fuller 
stream  forming  two  noble  cataracts,  before  it  loses  itself  in  the  thickets 

B  B  4 


376 


LLANRHAIADYR. 


below.  Regaining  the  road,  the  traveller  passes  through  Traws-fynydd, 
a  large  village  situated  in  an  open  barren  country,  where  there  is  a  public- 
house.  Previous  lo  approaching  this  village,  observe  Harlech  mountain  on 
the  1.,  on  the  side  of  which  stands  the  castle  concealed  from  the  view.  This 
district  is  very  thinly  sprinkled  with  cottages,  near  which  are  a  few  patchesof 
oats  and  rough  grass.  Passing  the  village,  the  gigantic  Snowdon  appears 
remotely  in  front.  The  road  now  makes  a  descent  to  the  vale  of  Festiniog, 
and  leading  through  defiles  amidst  woods  and  rocks,  the  village  of  Maent- 
WROG  is  soon  attained,  where  is  a  comfortable  inn  affording  neat  cars. 

To  Barmouth,  the  road  for  2  m.  presents  some  fine  pictures  and  peeps 
at  Cader  Idris.  Meeting  with  a  barge  going  to  Barmouth,  Mr.  Pugh 
embraced  the  opportunity  of  sailing,  and  was  much  pleased  with  the  rich 
scenery  of  the  river.  The  rocks  on  the  1.  are  very  high,  partly  covered 
with  verdure  ;  on  the  opposite  side  are  very  great  craggy  eminences  often 
covered  with  wood.  In  front  are  some  fine  mountains  falling  one  behind 
the  other,  to  a  great  distance. 


To  Mallwydd,  14  miles.  Pugh. 
Maentwrog,  17  miles.  Aikin. 


To  Barmouth,  8  miles.  Pennant ;  Pugh. 


LLANRHAIADYR. 

From  Denbigh,  4  miles.  Bingle}" ;  Pennant. 

LLANRHAIADYR,  i.e.  the  Village  of  the  Cataract,  in  the  hundred  of 
Is  Aled,  Denbighshire,  is  situated  upon  a  small  eminence  in  the  fertile  vale 
of  Clwyd,  on  the  road  between  Ruthin  and  Denbigh.  The  living  is  a  vicarage 
within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  consistorial  court  of  the  Bishop  of  Bangor. 
In  1801,  the  population  of  this  extensive  parish,  containing  the  town¬ 
ships  of  Cader  Segrwyz  Isav,  and  Segrwyz  Uchav,  Clicciedeg  and  Prion, 
Llanllech  and  Llwyn,  and  Trefydd  Bychan  and  Llewesog,  was  1702;  in 
1831,  it  amounted  to  2066  inhabitants. 

The  Church  is  a  handsome  structure,  dedicated  to  St.  Dyfrog,  having 
an  elegant  e.  window  of  five  lights,  in  a  high  state  of  preservation,  a  fine 
composition  in  the  decorated  style  of  English  architecture,  said  to  be  the 
produce  of  offerings  from  the  patients  who  frequented  the  bath  alluded  to 
below.  The  subject  is  the  root  of  Jesse.  The  patriarch  is  represented  as 
extended  upon  his  back,  with  the  genealogical  tree  issuing  from  his  loins, 
comprising  all  the  kings  of  Israel  and  Judah,  down  to  the  time  of  the 
Saviour’s  advent.  Above  is  an  outline  rose  including  an  eye,  surrounded 
with  radiance,  and  another  rose  of  Lancaster  to  correspond.  The  first 
device  indicates  omniscience,  and  the  latter,  that  the  work  was  executed 
after  the  accession  of  that  royal  house,  being  finished  in  the  year  1533. 
The  colours  are  remarkably  brilliant.  The  artist  has  not  inscribed  his 
name,  so  that  we  know  not  whether  we  are  indebted  to  a  Baptista  Sutton, 
a  Van  Linge,  or  some  one  unenrolled  on  the  list  of  fame.  A  similar  speci¬ 
men  of  the  genealogy  of  our  Saviour  exists  at  Selby,  in  Yorkshire,  and  in 
St.  Mary’s  Church,  Shrewsbury.  A  spring,  at  a  short  distance,  is  called 
Ffynnon  Ddyfrog  ;  this,  in  reality,  is  only  the  re-appearance  of  a  brook 
which  disappears  3  m.  above,  in  a  fissure  of  the  rock.  Here  once  was  a 
bath,  to  which  miraculous  cures  have  been  attributed,  and  chapel,  conse¬ 
crated  to  St.  Dyfrog.  A  crowded  monument  to  the  memory  of  Maurice 
Jones,  Esq.,  affords  a  specimen  of  impure  taste  in  sepulchral  decoration. 
The  effigy  is  arrayed  in  a  dress  grown,  and  curled  wig  !  The  same  error 
is  apparent  in  a  monument  by  Roubilliac,  in  Hope  Church,  near  Leo- 


LLANRHAIADYR-YN-MOCHNANT. 


377 


minster.  The  sarcophagus  is  surrounded  by  mourning  genii,  and  other 
puerile  accompaniments.  He  founded  some  almshouses  in  the  year  1720. 
A  beautiful  little  metaphorical  figure  perpetuates  the  memory  of  VTatkin 
Edwards  Wynne,  Esq.,  of  Llwyn.  In  the  cemetery  occurs  an  instance  of 
ostentation,  in  the  survivors  of  John  ap  Robert,  who  have  dated  his  pedigree 
up  to  Cadel.  It  is  as  follows  :  —  Here  lyeth  the  body  of  John,  ap 
Robert  of  Forth,  ap  David,  ap  Griffith,  ap  David  Vauchan,  ap  Blethan, 
ap  Gryffith,  ap  Meredith,  ap  Jorwerth,  ap  Llywelyn,  ap  Jeroth,  ap  Heilin, 
ap  Cowryd,  ap  Cadvan,  ap  Alawgwa,  ap  Cadel,  the  king  of  Powys,  who 
departed  this  life  the  xx  day  of  March,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  God,  l643, 
and  of  his  age  xcv.’' 

This  neighbourhood  abounds  with  limestone,  which  is  burnt  for  manure, 
and  for  building.  In  a  rock  under  Cadair-yr-Arglwyddes,  m.  w.  of  the 
church,  large  masses  of  silex  are  discovered  embedded,  containing  agate, 
jasper,  crystallised  sulphate  of  lime,  and  chalcedony.  The  first,  like  the 
last,  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  very  pure.  The  search  after  copper  ore 
has  not  hitherto  repaid  the  speculators. 

An  almshouse,  founded  in  1729:>  by  Mrs.  Jones,  of  this  parish,  affords  an 
asylum  for  indigent  widows,  who  are  allowed  2^.  per  week,  with  garden- 
ground.  The  aggregate  of  charitable  donations  and  bequests  amounts 
to  72Z.  Llanrhaiadyr  Hall,  a  substantial,  though  ungracefully  repaired, 
mansion. 

From  an  eminence,  called  Gwladuss  Chair,  n.  w.  of  the  church,  is  a 
comprehensive  view  of  the  valley. 

The  scenery  all  the  way  to  Denbigh  and  Ruthin  is  exceedingly  beau¬ 
tiful. 

To  Ruthin,  5  miles.  Bingley  ;  Pennant. 


LLANRHAIADYR-YN-MOCHNANT. 


From  Llangynog,  6  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Bingley. 
Llanymynach,  10^  miles.  Aikin. 
Llangollen,  13  miles.  Skrine. 


From  Llanfyllin,  5  miles.  Pennant. 
Oswestry,  14  miles. 

Bala,  17  miles. 


LLANRHAIADYR-YN-MOCHNANT  is  in  the  hundred  of  Chirk, 
county  of  Denbigh,  and  partly  in  the  hundred  of  Llanfyllin,  Montgomery¬ 
shire,  a  rectory  and  vicarage;  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  patron.  The  Church  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Dogfan,  said  to  have  been  slain  by  the  pagan  Saxons  at 
Merthyr  Dogfan,  in  Dyfed,  in  Pembrokeshire,  where  a  church  was  likewise 
consecrated  to  his  memory.  The  population  of  this  parish  in  1801,  was 
1869*  The  Coach  and  Horses  affords  tolerable  accommodation. 

The  petty  sessions  for  the  division  of  Cynllaeth  and  Mochnant  are  held 
here.  It  is  situated  at  the  s.  extremity  of  the  county,  on  the  road  between 
Bala  and  Llan-y-Mynach,  in  a  deep  hollow,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
mountains.  The  houses  are  extremely  irregular,  and  old,  yet  give,  from 
many  points,  an  effect  to  the  landscape. 

The  Church,  dedicated  to  St.  Dogfan,  is  of  a  superior  order,  and  the 
living  rich.  The  parish  is  populous,  consisting  of  seventeen  townships. 
Cloths  are  manufactured  here.  A  market  is  held  under  a  building,  dig¬ 
nified  by  the  epithet  of  town-hall.^’  There  are  places  of  worship  for 
Independents,  Calvinistic  and  M^esleyan  Methodists.  A  parochial  school 
was  founded  for  the  instruction  of  the  children  of  the  poor  in  1730,  which 


37S 


LLANRHAIADYR-YN-MOCHNANT. 


has  been  subsequently  augmented.  William  Morgan,  D.D.,  the  first 
translator  of  the  Bible  into  Welsh,  was  a  native  and  vicar  of  this  place. 
He  was  afterwards  promoted  by  Queen  Elizabeth  to  the  bishopric  of 
LlandafF,  and  in  l601  to  that  of  St.  Asaph,  where  he  died,  September  10. 
l604.  The  living  being  rich,  several  of  its  incumbents  have  been 
learned  and  eminent.  The  erudite,  but  facetious  Robert  South,  D.D.,  and 
the  celebrated  William  Worthington,  D.D,,  were  also  vicars  of  this  place. 
The  latter  planned  and  executed  the  artificial  ruins  which  are  seen  above 
the  vicarage,  from  the  road,  with  extraordinary  effect.  In  the  church  there 
is  a  mural  monument  inscribed  to  him,  1778.  His  Essay  on  the  Scheme 
and  Conduct,  Procedure  and  Extent  of  Man’s  Redemption”  passed  through 
many  editions.  He  was  author  of  numerous  publications.  (See  Watt’s 
Bibliotheca  Brit?) 

This  valley  is  called  Mochnant,  the  Vale  of  the  Rapid,”  at  the  extremity 
of  which,  distant  from  the  village  about  4-^-  m.,  is  Pistyll  Rhaiadyr,  “  the 
Spout  of  the  Cataract,”  the  largest  waterfall  in  Wales.  The  little  river 
Rhaiadyr  here  falls  down  an  almost  perpendicular  black  crag,  of  210  ft.  in 
height.  For  about  two  thirds  of  this  space,  the  stream  descends  the  flat  sur¬ 
face  of  a  naked  rock ;  it  rages  thence  through  a  natural  arch,  and  passing 
between  two  prominent  sides,  lodges  in  a  basin.  It  then  passes  through  a 
well-wooded  dell,  forming  a  boundary  line,  which  separates  the  counties  of 
Denbigh  and  Merioneth,  and  after  assisting  to  form  some  pleasing  scenes, 
mingles  with  the  Tanat,  in  a  vale  much  admired  by  tourists,  as  affording  a 
succession  of  interesting  features.  The  cataract  is  destitute  of  wood,  not¬ 
withstanding  which,  it  retains  an  air  of  simple  grandeur.  When  the  sun 
shines  on  the  upper  part,  it  is  visible  at  a  great  distance.  Near  the  foot  of 
the  rock,  is  a  small  room,  built  for  the  use  of  visitors,  under  the  patronage 
and  influence  of  the  late  eminent  Dr.  W orthington,  which  affords  a  very 
convenient  shade  and  resting-place  to  those  who  bring  refreshments. 
Trout  are  caught  close  under  the  fall ;  there  is  also  fine  angling  at  the 
bridge  just  below. 

Plants.  —  Near  the  cataract  grow  Pinguicula  vulgaris.  Cotyledon  Umbili¬ 
cus,  Saponaria  officinalis,  Fumaria  claviculata.  The  two  last  occur  in  the  lane 
leading  to  Pistyll  Rhaiadyr. 

On  the  road  to  Llan-y-Mynach,  at  the  distance  of  4:(  m.,  is  the  village 
of  Llangedwyn,  near  which  is  a  handsome  stone  edifice,  the  property  of  the 
present  Sir  Watkin  Williams  Wynn,  once  a  favourite  residence  of  the 
late  baronet;  4  m.  beyond  is  placed  Llan-y-blodwel,  in  former  times  the 
residence  of  Gwerful  Hael,  full  oft  the  theme  of  many  a  bardic  song.” 

Near  Pistyll  Rhaiadyr  is  an  extensive  slate  quarry,  wrought  under  Earl 
Powis,  by  the  firm  of  Foulkes  and  Co.  Coals  have  been  discovered  here, 
but  the  attempts  to  procure  ore  have  not  been  successful. 


To  Llan-y-Mynach,  10^  miles.  Ringley. 
Llangynog,  6  miles.  Aikin  ;  Pugh. 
Llanfyllin  5  miles.  Wyndham  ,  Skrine. 
Oswestry,  14  miles.  Wyndham’s  2d  tour. 


To  Llangollen,  13  miles. 

Bala,  18  miles. 

Back  to  Llanfyllin.  Pennant. 


379 


LLANRWST. 


From  Dolwyddelan  Castle,  11  miles.  Pennant. 
Bingley ;  Aikin. 

Cernioge,  14  miles.  Hutton. 


From  Conwy,  12  miles.  Evans  ;  Wyndham  ; 
Warner. 

Conwy  Ferry.  Skrine. 


LLANRWST  is  a  well-built  town^  finely  situated  on  the  w.  bank  of  the 
Conwy^  in  the  hundred  of  Uwch  Dulas^  county  of  Denbigh.  The  popula¬ 
tion  of  this  parish  in  1831  amounted  to  3601.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
and  the  houses  irregular.  The  high  road  from  Shropshire  to  Holyhead 
passes  through  it.  The  market  is  on  Tuesday.  The  fairs  are  held  April 
25.,  June  21 .,  August  9-,  September  17-,  December  11.  Petit  sessionsare 
held  here. 

The  Bridge  is  the  most  prominent  curiosity  attaching  to  this  place.  It 
was  built  after  a  design  by  the  architect  of  the  chapel.  But  this  was  a 
public  work,  having  been  constructed  by  an  order  from  the  privy  council 
of  the  ninth  year  of  Charles  I.,  at  the  expense  of  1000^.,  defrayed  by  the 
counties  of  Caernarvon  and  Denbigh,  conjointly.  It  consists  of  three 
arches,  the  central  being  the  largest,  measuring  60  ft.  in  the  span.  One 
of  the  collateral  arches  was  built  by  an  inferior  genius,  in  1703.  It  is 
said,  that  by  moving  suddenly  against  the  large  stone  over  the  middle  arch, 
the  bridge  will  vibrate.  The  whole  structure  presents  a  fine  architectural 
object  in  the  surrounding  scenery,  enriching,  both  from  above  and  below, 
a  combination  of  objects  grouped  in  endless  diversity.  The  thick  woods 
and  tow^ering  hills,  which  skirt  the  Conwy  on  both  sides,  are  enlivened  by 
the  busy  animation  presented  upon  the  surface  of  this  river.  Vessels  are 
continually  passing  and  repassing  to  and  from  the  village  of  Trefriw,  2  m. 
down  the  river,  being  the  highest  point  to  which  the  tide  flows  ;  and 
diminutive  coracles,  used  in  fishing  for  salmon  and  smelts,  are  frequently 
plying.  Less  extended  than  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  and  wider  than  that  of 
Llangollen,  the  vale  of  Llanrw^st  has  often  been  admired,  as  exhibiting  the 
most  variegated  assemblage  of  beauty. 

The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Grwst  or  Rhystyd,  said  to  have  been  a 
Bishop  of  London  in  360.  The  living  is  a  rectory  and  vicarage ;  the 
Bishop  of  St.  David’s,  patron.  This  structure  is  lowly,  both  external 
and  internal.  The  Gwydir  Chapel  was  built  by  Sir  Richard  Wynn,  from 
a  design  of  the  celebrated  architect,  Inigo  Jones,  in  l633,  and  possesses 
a  considerable  portion  of  elegance.  The  carved  and  fretted  roof  is  said 
to  have  been  brought  from  the  conventual  church  of  Maenen  Abbey,  which 
stood  at  the  distance  of  3  m. 

In  this  chapel  are  some  monuments  to  the  Wynn  family,  worth  atten¬ 
tion.  They  are  brasses,  each  containing,  besides  an  inscription,  the  por¬ 
trait  of  the  person  to  whose  memory  they  were  inscribed.  These  are  justly 
considered  very  fine  specimens  of  the  chasing  practised  in  the  seventeenth 
century.  Four  of  them  were  executed  by  Sylvanus  Crew  ;  but  a  half- 
length  figure  of  dame  Sarah  Wynn,  by  William  Vaughan,  is  most  admired. 
It  is  remarkable  that  the  names  of  these  artists,  have  never  been  recorded 
in  the  annals  of  the  fine  arts.  On  the  e.  wall,  a  slab  of  white  marble 
records  the  pedigree  of  the  founder,  tracing  his  descent  from  Owain  Gwy¬ 
nedd,  Prince  of  N.  Wales,  One  of  the  family  of  Gothens,  of  Fedw-aeg 
now  extinct,  lies  wdth  an  efiigy  in  armour,  in  this  chapel.  He  was  named 
Hoel  Coytmore,  brother  to  Rhys  Gethen,  ^yho  lived  in  the  parish  of  Bet- 


380 


LLANRWST. 


tws>y-Coed_,  near  Llanwrst,  at  Hendre  Rhys  Gethen :  it  is  a  little  above 
Pont-y-Pair.  Hoel  Coytmore  was  grandson  of  Davydd,  brother  to  Lly- 
wellyn  ab  Gryffydd,  whose  monument  is  at  Bettws-y-Coed.  Under  the 
recumbent  figure  just  mentioned  is  inscribed^  — 

HIC  JACET  HOEL  COYTMORE  AP  GRUFF; 

VYCHAN  AMN. 

Near  this  monument  is  a  large  stone  coffin,  supposed  to  have  contained 
the  remains  of  Prince  Llywelyn  ap  Jorwerth,  denominated  the  Great 
Prince  of  N.  Wales.  A  copper- plate,  fixed  within,  bears  this  inscrip¬ 
tion: —  The  coffin  of  Leolinus  ,  Magnus,  Prince  of  N.  Wales,  who  was 
buried  in  the  abbey  of  Conwy,  and  after  the  dissolution  removed  thence.” 
It  measures  in  the  inside  7  ft.  1  in.,  in  breadth  at  the  head,  3  ft.  3  in.,  at 
the  feet,  1  ft.  10  in.,  in  depth  11  in.,  and  in  general  thickness,  about  3^ 
in.  It  is  handsomely  ornamented  with  raised  quartrefoils  all  round.  The 
magnanimous  Llywelyn  reigned  from  1194  to  1240.  In  this  chapel  is 
likewise  a  tablet,  to  the  memory  of  Margaret,  daughter  of  Rowland 
Vaughan,  of  Caergai,  near  Bala,  who  died  aged  89-  She  wrote  some 
Welsh  poems  of  considerable  merit.  The  ground  upon  which  the  church 
stands  was  given  by  a  son  of  Nefydd  Hardd,  in  expiation  of  the  foul 
murder  of  Idwal.  (See  page  338.)  In  the  centre  of  the  market-place  is 
the  Town  Hall,  erected  in  l66l.  Inn.  The  Eagles  is  accounted  the  best. 
There  are  in  this  parish  eleven  places  of  worship  for  Dissenters. 

The  river  Conwy  runs  close  past  the  churchyard,  whence  there  is  a  fine 
prospect  of  the  bridge  and  crowned  eminences  of  Gwydir,  an  extensive 
pile.  A  considerable  portion  of  this  structure  was  taken  down  in  18 16, 
since  which  time  the  present  mansion,  though  on  a  smaller  scale,  has  been 
erected,  fitted  up  in  an  antique  and  elegant  style.  Mary  Wynne,  after¬ 
wards  Duchess  of  Ancaster,  the  last  of  this  great  race,  conveyed  the  pro¬ 
perty  to  that  family,  and  Lord  Willoughby  D’Eresby  now  possesses  it  in 
right  of  his  lady.  The  Conwy  is  navigable  from  its  mouth  to  Trefriw, 
3  m.  above  this  town,  for  vessels  of  60  tons  burden.  These  bring  coal, 
lime,  timber,  and  grocery,  and  carry  back  the  produce  of  the  slate  quarries 
and  mines  of  the  adjoining  parishes.  Excellent  roads  have  recently 
been  made,  communicating  with  the  London,  Liverpool,  and  Holy- 
head  roads,  and  also  with  Denbigh  and  St.  Asaph.  This  arrangement 
has  increased  the  number  of  visitors  to  the  picturesque  and  much  admired 
scenery  of  this  neighbourhood.  Llanrwst  was  formerly  eminent  in  the  pro¬ 
duction  of  harps.  The  principal  branches  of  trade  are  now  confined  to 
the  manufacture  of  woollen  yarn  and  knitted  stockings  ;  the  town  being 
situated  at  the  n.  w.  extremity  of  the  hosiery  district  of  N.  W ales,  and  next 
to  Bala  is  the  principal  mart  for  goods  of  this  description. 

Plants.  —  In  moist  ground,  1  m.  distant  from  the  town,  and  within  3 
or  4  yards  of  the  road,  thence  to  Conwy,  grow  the  Centun cuius  minimus, 
and  Stellaria  uliginosa.  On  road-sides  near  the  town,  and  in  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood  of  Rhaiadyr-y-wenol,  distant  5  m..  Campanula  hederacea  ;  on  the 
road-side  to  Festiniog,  near  the  bridge,  1  m.  from  Penmachno,  also  in 
moist  high  woods  about  Gwydir,  Vaccinum  uliginosum,  and  Rubus  idseus  ; 
on  a  wall,  s.  of  Gwydir  Chapel,  by  the  road-side  leading  to  Capel  Curig, 
Sedum  rupestre ;  in  sandy  barren  places,  Tormentilla  reptans  ;  by  the  side 
of  a  rivulet,  on  a  dingle,  called  Nant  Bwlch-yr-haiarn,  1  m.  from  Llanrwst 
bridge,  20  yards  from  the  turnpike-road,  leading  to  Conwy,  Thiaspi 
alpestre  ;  in  meadows  on  the  banks  of  Conwy,  about  7  from  Llanrwst, 
Orobus  sylvaticus. 


LLANRWST. 


381 


At  Maen,  within  1  m.  of  Llanrwst,  is  a  spring  of  high  repute^  frequently 
used,  with  good  effect,  as  a  cold  bath.  The  water  is  uncommonly  soft, 
and  impregnated  with  fetherial  spirits.  Holding  sal  volatile  in  solution  it 
turns  milk  white,  with  the  oil  of  tartar,  a  pearl  colour.  Vitriolic  acid  causes 
an  effervescence,  and  increases  its  whiteness. 

S.  E.  of  Llanrwst,  5  m.  is  Gwytlierin,  an  ancient  nunnery,  where  St. 
Winifred  is  said  to  have  been  buried.  This  is  a  discharged  rectory  ;  the 
Bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  patron.  The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Gwythirn. 
In  the  churchyard  are  four  rude  upright  stones,  one  of  which  is  shaped 
like  a  prism,  and  bears  an  old  inscription.  The  box  in  which  the  relics 
of  this  saint  were  deposited  is  shown  in  the  church  ;  but  her  chapel  on  the 
s.  side  is  totally  destroyed.  Three  m.  to  the  n.  once  stood  the  Abbey  of 
Maenen  ;  but  a  large  old  house,  built  out  of  its  ruins,  is  all  which  exists 
of  it. 

On  the  road  to  Penmachno,  about  5  m.,  from  Llanrwst,  and  over  some 
fields  to  the  1.,  is  a  small  waterfall  of  12  or  14  yards,  on  the  river  Conwy. 
Proceeding  1  m.,  at  a  fulling  mill,  near  Pont-y-Pandy,  is  a  truly  romantic 
and  picturesque  cataract,  called  Rhaiadyr-y- Craig- Llwyd.  The  high  banks 
on  each  side  are  ornamented  with  pendent  shrubs,  and  a  mill  and  rude  wooden 
aqueduct,  conveying  water  to  an  old  overshot  wheel,  overgrown  with  mosses 
and  grass,  unite  to  complete  this  elegant  landscape.  The  descent  to  the 
bottom  is  steep  and  difficult,  but  the  trouble  is  amply  repaid  by  viewing  the 
fall  to  a  much  greater  advantage  than  from  above.  The  river  accompanies 
the  road  to  some  distance  beyond.  Where  they  part,  the  road  may  be  left 
to  follow  the  banks  of  the  current.  After  some  time,  the  traveller  will 
arrive  at  an  uncommonly  wild  scene  of  wooded  projecting  rocks,  over¬ 
hanging  the  stream.  Returning,  the  tourist  may  pursue  the  road  to  Pen¬ 
machno,  over  a  mountainous,  but  not  an  interesting  nor  romantic  country. 

The  road  to  Cernioge  and  Cerig-y-Drudion,  on  the  e.  side  of  the  river 
Conwy,  winds  through  an  extensive  plantation  of  oaks,  interspersed  with 
beech  and  chestnut ;  the  elegant  spruce,  the  pensile  birch,  and  the  rich 
scarlet  berries  of  the  mountain  ash,  add  a  pleasing  variety  to  the  sylvan 
scene.  The  opposite  rocks  and  woods  of  Gwydir,  the  valley  below,  and 
the  meandering  river,  form  a  landscape  peculiarly  pleasing.  At  the  dis¬ 
tance  of  2  m.  from  Llanrwst,  near  Hendre  House,  the  whole  circle  of 
stones,  called  Cefn  Creini,  may  be  seen.  After  an  ascent  of  5  m.,  through 
a  desert,  succeeds  a  gloomy  heath,  and  barren  morass,  circumscribed  by 
naked  dark  brown  mountains,  unrelieved  by  any  attractive  object.  At 
length  the  venerable  plantations  appear  which  encircle  Foelas  Hall,  an  old 
mansion  of  the  Wynns.  Here  is  an  artificial  mount,  on  which  formerly 
stood  a  small  castle,  destroyed  by  Llywelyn  the  Great.  A  remarkable 
column  bears  a  very  obscure  inscription,  in  Latin  and  Welsh,  said  to  refer 
to  the  interment  of  a  prince  Llywelyn  but  this  is  doubtful,  as  in  the  time  of 
LIumphrey  Llwyd  it  was  so  obscure,  that  he  could  make  no  decision  on 
the  subject.  Two  m.  to  the  r.  is  Spy  tty  Evan,  or  Ysbytty-Ieuan,  a 
small  village,  where  formerly  stood  a  hospitium  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem. 
Descending  to  the  small  village  of  Cupel  Foelas,  and  crossing  a  bridge  over 
a  tributary  stream  to  the  Conwy,  the  tourist  passes  over  a  tract  of  sterile 
and  boggy  meadow-land,  which  introduces  him  to  the  solitary  inn  of  Cer¬ 
nioge.  Three  m.  farther  is  Cerig-y-Drudion. 

To  Cernioge,  on  the  w.  side  of  the  Conwy,  the  road  is  less  direct  than 
the  new  one  on  the  e.  side,  but  more  picturesque.  Passing  in  view  of,  and 
amidst  the  scenery  of  Gwydir  House,  several  neat  and  pleasant  seats  appear 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  vale,  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  which,  in  its 


382 


LLANRWST. 


progress,  receives  many  tributary  mountainous  streams.  Pass  Pont-y-Pair, 
■where  the  new  road  through  Capel  Curig  branches  off.  This  singularly 
constructed  bridge  was  erected  by  Howell,  a  mason  from  Penllyn,  in 
Merionethshire,  about  1470.  It  consists  of  four  arches,  resting  upon 
masses  of  precipitous  rock,  which,  in  high  floods,  form  several  magnificent 
cascades  below.  The  Conwy,  Llugwy,  and  Lledev,  unite  in  this  parish,  and 
in  their  course  through  this  mountainous  district,  form  numerous  and 
majestic  cataracts,  called  “  the  Falls  of  the  Llugwy,  Machno,  and  Conwy."’ 
The  last,  after  rushing  violently  through  rocks  of  tremendous  height,  forms 
four  smaller  cataracts,  which  are  seen  in  succession  from  the  same  spot. 
At  a  short  distance  occurs  Bettws-y-Coed,  situated  in  a  beautiful  vale,  sur¬ 
rounded  on  all  sides  by  the  Caernarvonshire  and  Denbighshire  mountains, 
and  near  the  confluence  of  the  Llugwy  and  Conwy.  Over  the  former  of 
these  rivers,  i  m.  from  the  church,  is  an  iron  bridge,  of  one  noble  arch, 
beautifully  ornamented  with  the  rose,  shamrock,  and  thistle,  with  an  in¬ 
scription  in  Roman  capitals,  purporting  that  it  w’as  erected  in  the  year  of 
the  Battle  of  Waterloo.  Immediately  above  this  bridge,  over  the  Llugwy, 
is  a  small  cataract  amongst  ledges  of  rocks,  hollowed  out  into  the  most 
fantastic  forms,  by  the  incessant  action  of  the  water.  The  cascade  of 
Rhaiadr^y-Wenol,  the  Cataract  of  the  Swallow,”  lies  at  the  distance  of  2 
m.  to  the  r.  The  Conwy  may  be  here  crossed  by  a  new  and  lofty  bridge, 
unless  you  choose  to  take  the  still  more  circuitous  route  by  the  way  of  the 
Falls  of  the  Conwy,  near  Penmachno.  Not  far  from  Pont-y-Pair,  the 
Conwy  and  the  Llugwy,  which  for  some  space  foams  along  a  declivity  of 
broken  rocks,  unite  their  streams,  becoming  tranquil  and  clear.  Ascend  by 
a  precipitous  road,  properly  guarded  on  one  side  by  a  stone  wall.  Here 
the  vale  contracts  to  a  deep  dell,  through  w^hich  the  Conwy  again  thunders, 
at  a  great  distance  below.  The  scenery  here  is  well  wooded  and  grand. 

Gaining  the  summit  of  the  ascent,  enter  on  a  tract  of  milder  features, 
amongst  woods  and  cultivation.  Observe,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  road, 
the  new  Inn  of  Rhyddlan  Fair  ;  also  Plds  Newydd,  occurs  on  the  r.,  in 
the  midst  of  fine  plantations  of  birch,  larch,  and  oak.  Cross  the 
rocky  bed  of  a  mountain  torrent,  which  falls  into  the  Conwy,  and 
pass  on  the  1.  Foelas  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  Hon.  C.  Finch  ;  and  soon  after 
leave,  in  the  same  direction,  the  village  of  Capel  Foelas.  The  land  now 
assumes  a  sterile  aspect,  producing  only  oats,  and  coarse  grass.  In  many 
places,  the  soil  is  boggy,  yielding  turf  in  abundance,  which  forms  the 
principal  part  of  the  fuel  of  the  inhabitants. 

On  his  way  to  Capel  Curig,  Mr.  Pennant  visited  the  village  of  Trefriw, 
where  numbers  of  small  vessels  are  built,  and  sent  down  the  river  at  spring 
tides.  Llywelyn,  by  whom  the  church  of  Trefriw  was  originally  built, 
had  a  palace  near  this  place,  called  Gard-y-Neuadd.  This  district  is  chiefly 
remarkable  on  account  of  a  mineral  water,  containing  common  salt,  which 
a  solution  of  silver  turns  milky.  Dr.  J.  Williams,  author  of  a  Latin  and 
M^elsh  dictionary,  is  said  to  have  been  a  native  of  Trefriw.  Hence  Mr. 
Pennant  receded  as  far  as  Gwydir,  and  ascended  a  very  steep  hill,  leaving 
the  park  on  the  1.  Went  over  an  open  space  called  Bwlcli-yr-Haiarn, 
full  of  turbaries.  The  Myrica  gale  is  here  abundant.  After  gaining 
the  summit,  visit  to  the  r.  Llyn  Geirionydd,  a  small  lake,  near  which  the 
celebrated  bard  Taliesin,  who  flourished  about  the  year  .560,  had  a  habi¬ 
tation.  Descend  a  great  steep  into  Glyn  Llygwy,  a  bottom,  fertile  in 
grass.  Go  through  a  narrow  pass,  high  above  a  raging  torrent,  which 
falls  in  broken  cascades  from  rock  to  rock.  At  a  short  distance  enter 
Lynnau  Mymhyr,  a  valley,  in  which  there  are  no  trees.  The  small 


LLANRWST. 


3S3 


church  of  Capel  Curig  and  a  few  scattered  houses  give  animation  to 
this  dreary  tract.  On  the  road  to  this  place  the  traveller  may  skirt 
the  N.  extremity  of  Snowdon,  Ascending  the  w.  boundary  of  Llan- 
rwst  vale^  by  the  road  to  Capel  Curig,  passing  at  the  base  of  Gwydir  woods, 
distant  2  m.,  occurs  an  extensive  dip  between  the  mountains,  abounding 
with  mines.  When  a  stratum  does  not  lie  horizontally,  but  is  inclined,  it 
is  said  to  dip  towards  some  point  of  the  compass,  and  the  angle  it  makes 
with  the  horizon  is  called  the  angle  of  dip,  or  inclination.  Hence,  pro¬ 
ceeding  up  a  rather  narrow  wooded  valley,  two  or  three  fine  waterfalls  are 
formed  by  the  river  Llygwy  ;  one  of  Rhaiadyr-y-Wenol,  is  particularly 
striking  ;  its  elevation  is  not  great,  but  a  considerable  body  of  water  falls 
in  four  foaming  torrents  into  a  deep  basin  in  the  centre  of  a  very  rugged 
channel ;  a  number  of  footsteps,  cut  in  the  rock,  show  that  it  is  a  spot  much 
frequented.  Among  the  prospects  on  this  part  of  the  road,  Moel  Siabod, 
or  Shabod,  so  lofty  as  to  conceal  behind  it  the  crags  of  Snowdon,  forms  an 
object  of  admiration,  both  on  account  of  its  size,  and  the  elegance  of  out¬ 
line  ;  the  altitude  is  2878  ft. 

A  new  road  is  now  opened  from  Llanrwst  to  Bangor,  through  Nant- 
Francon. 

To  Maentwrog,  20|  m.  3  rn.  Bettws  j  1  m.,  a  small  cataract  upon  the 
Conwy  ;  1  m.  Rhaiadyr-y- Craig  JJwyd,  the  fall  of  the  Conwy  ;  2,  Pen- 
MACHNO  ;  11,  Festiniog;  near  it  the  falls  of  Cyn-fael ;  1,  the  vale  of 
Maentwrog  or  Festiniog  ;  1|,  Maentwrog,  where  is  a  good  inn  ;  Tan- 
Y-BWLCH  inn  is  \  m.  distant,  over  the  bridge  to  the  1.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful,  and  to  tourists,  one  of  the  most  interesting,  regions  within 
the  Snowdonian  range. 

From  Llanrwst  to  Abergele  by  the  e.  or  Denbighshire  side  of  the 
river,  is  about  22  m.  The  scenery  along  the  Conwy  is  charming,  but  the 
latter  3  m.  before  entering  the  great  road,  is  too  hilly  and  tedious  for  a 
carriage. 

On  the  great  road  to  Conwy,  on  the  w.  side  the  river  of  the  same  name,  is 
crossed  near  Gwydir,  the  seat  of  Lord  Willoughby  D’Eresby,  on  the  1.  The 
falls  of  Parc  Mawr  are  in  Nant-bwlch-yr-Haiarn,  about  1-i  m.  from 
Llanrwst  bridge,  on  the  1.  of  the  road  to  Trefriw.  This  river  rises  among 
mines  in  the  vicinity  of  My  nydd-bwlch-yr-Haiarn,  and  is  called  4/oR-^-Prtrc- 
Mawr.  In  wet  seasons  the  water  swells  considerably,  and  is  divided  in  its  fall 
over  an  almost  smooth  and  perpendicular  rock  of  above  100  ft.  Trefriw,  2^. 
A  brook  issuing  from  Llyn-tal-y-llyn  and  Llyn  Crafnant,  turns  a  mill  at 
this  place.  On  the  r.  is  Rids  Madoc,  Mrs.  Nembhard,  1  m.  from  Trefriw. 
Owiher .1^ Maenan,  John  Cyffin  Lenthall,  Esq.  J  m.  further  see  Abbey,  Lord 
Newborough.  Several  miles  to  the  1.,  lie  various  lakes ;  the  first  is  Llyn 
Cwlid;  the  stream  issuing  from  it  is  crossed  at  Pont  Dolgarrog  ;  the  second  is 
Fynnon~Lly faint,  connected  by  a  stream  to  Llyn  Geirionydd,  and  continued 
to  Pont  Porthlwyd,  which  lies  within  -Jm.  from  Tal-y-bont.  Leave  Llan- 
bedr-cennyn  to  the  1.  Pass  Caerrhun  Hall,  Rev.  H.  Edwards.  Tyn-y- 
Groes,  5^  m.  (On  the  1.  is  a  road  to  Aber,  about  8  m.  by  way  of  Clod- 
diepaethion,  Yro,  Bwlch-y-ddeufaen,  and  Plds  Newydd,')  Near  Conwy  on 
the  r.  is  Pennarth,  the  residence  of  Major  A.  Burrows.  Conwy,  4  m. 
On  the  E.  side  of  the  Conwy,  pass  Croesford,  1  m.  On  the  r.  Llandoged  ; 
Tydu,  :|m.  Pen-yr-wylfa,  4  m.  Maenon,  on  1.,  -|^m.  Fall  into  the  road 
from  Llangernew,  2  m.  Eglwys  Each,  f  m.  On  the  r.  to  Tal-y-cefn 
Ferry,  m.  Croesau,  at  a  cross-road,  1  in.  Ty-isav,  ^  m.  Gian  Conwy, 
1  m.  where  resides  Mr.  Hughes,  who  has  produced  a  work  entitled  the 
“  Beauties  of  Cambria,”  containing  60  exquisitely  fine  views  from  en- 


S84 


LLANIDLOES. 


gravings  on  wood.  Hendrewachod,  R.  Williams;,  Esq.  Bryn-yr-Eis- 
teddfa,  m.  Conwy  Ferry  House,  1  i  m. 

To  Denbigh^  Mr.  Pugh  passed  over  a  tract  of  10  m.  of  uninteresting 
mountains^,  to  Llansannan,  where  he  passed  the  night.  Near  this  place  is  a 
lead-mine.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  Dyffryn  Alet,  surrounded  by  black 
and  naked  hills^  built  by  Mrs.  York  of  Erthig;,  near  Wrexham.  It  is  the 
residence  of  Robert  York^  Esq.  To  Llanyfydd,  5  m.  Beren  House,  a 
heavy  and  inelegant  structure^,  once  the  abode  of  the  beautiful  Catherine, 
daughter  and  heiress  of  Tudor  ap  Robert  Fychan,  of  this  place.  (See 
p.  241.) 

Mr.  Pugh  pronounces  this  vast  tract  of  country  to  be  without  interest, 
consisting  of  soft,  flat,  and  headless  mountains  and  boggy  ground,  though 
in  circuit  not  less  than  70  m.,  stretching  from  Abergele,  n.  to  Eglwys  Each, 
to  the  hills  above  Llanrwst,  straight  to  Capel  Foelas,  Gweddelwern  and 
Cyffylliog,  to  the  hills  above  Denbigh,  and  thence  back  to  the  heights 
above  Abergele. 

Angling  Stations.  —  The  principal  Fishing  Stations  are  Bettws-y-Coed, 
3  m.;  Trefriw,  2g  m.  on  the  road  from  Aberconwy ;  Dol-y-Garrog,  4  m.; 
Lampeter,  5m.  on  the  Conwy;  Dolwyddelan,  8  m.;  Llyn-tal-y-Llyn. 


To  Penmachno,  9  miles.  Bingley. 

Capel  Curig,  11  miles.  Pennant ;  Aikin. 
Conwy,  12  miles.  Hutton  ;  Skrine. 
Cerig-y-Drudion,  14  miles.  Evans. 


To  Cernioge,  14  miles.  Warner. 

Denbigh,  22  miles.  W^yndham  ;  Pugh. 
Maentwrog,  20  miles. 


LLANIDLOES. 

trom  Machynlleth,  20  miles.  Bingley;  Pugh.  I  From  Welchpool,  26^  miles. 

Newtown,  14m  Pennant;  Skrine;  Evans.  ] 

LLANIDLOES,  in  the  hundred  of  Llanidloes,  Montgomeryshire.  A 
handsome  stone  bridge  has  been  erected  over  the  Severn,  near  the  confluence 
of  the  Cly  wedog.  The  streets  form  right  angles.  The  situation  is  pleasant, 
and  the  different  areas  spacious.  The  town  has  of  late  been  greatly  im¬ 
proved  by  the  substitution  of  several  respectable  buildings  on  the  site  of 
ancient  houses  of  framework  and  timber,  which  formerly  prevailed.  The 
Church,  now  repaired,  is  dedicated  to  St.  Idloes ;  the  living  is  a  discharged 
vicarage  ;  the  Bishop  of  Bangor,  patron.  The  ceiling  is  formed  of  curiously 
carved  oak.  The  nave  is  separated  from  the  aisle  by  circular  columns, 
surrounded  by  round  pillars,  ending  in  capitals  of  palm  leaves  which 
support  six  pointed  arches.  The  upper  parts  are  decorated  with  figures  of 
cherubim,  each  of  which  exhibits  a  shield  charged  with  armorial  bearings 
finely  executed.  The  ornamental  parts  are  said  to  have  been  brought  from 
Cwmhir  in  Radnorshire,  with  which  account  the  date  of  the  roof  cor¬ 
responds,  1542,  being  the  period  of  the  dissolution  of  that  abbey.  The 
roof  is  finely  executed  in  wood,  and  three  figures  represent  the  crucifixion. 
To  the  painting  of  the  Lord’s  Supper  a  curious  history  attaches.  It  is 
said  that  Dyer,  the  poet,  executed  this  picture.  A  sign-painter  of  this 
town  suggested  the  necessity  of  retouching  it.  FTe  was  employed,  and  did 
it  so  completely  that  he  does  not  seem  to  have  left  even  an  outline  belonging 
to  the  original  artist.  A  new  set  of  bells  was  added  in  1825.  There  are 
places  of  worship  for  Baptists,  the  Society  of  Friends,  Independents,  and 
Calvinistic  and  Wesleyan  Methodists.  The  Market  House  stands  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  is  an  ancient  edifice.  The  market  is  on 


LLANIDLOES. 


S85 


Saturday.  The  Fairs  are  held  on  the  first  Saturday  in  Aprils  11th  of  May^ 
Saturday  before  the  24th  of  June^  17th  of  July,  the  last  Saturday  in  Sep¬ 
tember,  the  first  Friday,  and  28th  of  October,  besides  sheep-fairs,  which 
are  holden  by  the  shepherds  of  N.  and  S.  W ales  every  Thursday  between 
the  26’th  of  May  and  26th  of  June  inclusive.  The  Petty  Sessions  for  the 
hundred  of  Llanidloes  are  holden  here.  It  is  one  of  five  con  tributary 
boroughs  with  Montgomery,  and  also  a  polling  place  for  the  election  of  a 
county  member.  It  retains  the  appendages  of  a  corporate  town  in  a 
mayor  and  subaltern  officers.  This  parish  consists  of  the  townships  of 
Brithdir,  Cil  Machen,  Glyn  Havren,  Is  Coed,  Manleoedd,  Morfordion, 
Treflin,  and  Ystrad  Dunod.  In  1831  the  population  amounted  to  4189  in¬ 
habitants.  The  manufacture  of  this  town,  notwithstanding  the  rivalship 
of  Newtown,  has  continued  to  increase.  There  are  here  more  than 
40  carding  engines,  18  fulling  mills,  and  nearly  35,000  spindles  con¬ 
stantly  in  operation  in  the  town  and  neighbourhood,  affording  considerable 
employment  to  a  number  of  men  who  weave  the  flannel  at  their  own 
dwellings.  A  coarse  slate  abounds  in  the  neighbouring  hills,  and  good 
building  stone.  These  rocks  which  are  identical  with  those  of  Houghill 
Fell  and  Coniston  Water,  consist  of  argillaceous  and  arenaceous  strata,  the 
former  often  endued  with  perfect  cleavage,  forming  a  portion  of  the  upper 
or  Cambrian  slate  system.  No  fossils  are  discovered  here.  Not  far  distant 
at  a  place  called  Fryn-du,  is  a  lead  mine  belonging  to  Messrs.  Lawrence 
of  Shrewsbury*  Dol  Llys,  in  this  parish,  commands  a  delightful  view  of 
the  vale  of  the  Severn,  terminated  by  lofty  mountains  in  the  distance. 
Mount  Severn,  an  elevated  and  truly  romantic  spot,  commands  an  interest¬ 
ing  view  of  Nant-y-brace,  embosomed  in  the  trees  which  crown  the  opposite 
bank.  Inn,  New  Inn. 

The  mountain  of  Plinlimmon,  or  Pumlumon-fawr,  occupies  a  great 
extent  of  barren  and  dreary  country.  It  is  situated  8  m.  s.  of  Ma¬ 
chynlleth,  10  m.  from  Llangurig,  about  12  m.  w.  of  Llanidloes,  up 
the  course  of  the  infant  Severn,  and  about  18  n.  e.  from  Aberystwith. 
Its  name,  according  to  some,  is  derived  from  Pen  llumon,  the  Summit  of 
the  Beacon.”  The  region  surrounding  Plinlimmon  is  a  mineral  tract 
containing  many  subterraneous  treasures.  All  tourists  agree  in  their  accounts 
of  the  roads  to  the  summit,  a  distance  from  Llanidloes  of  1 1  m.  Mr.  Pugh 
says,  “  The  road  follows  the  infant  Severn,  and  is  so  intolerably  bad  for  a 
horse,  that  had  I  ridden  one  of  those  delicate-limbed  animals  reared  in 
England,  I  should  have  been  precipitated  to  the  base  of  some  dreadful  cliff; 
but  my  native  carrier  picked  his  way  so  well  that  I  had  not  occasion  once  to 
dismount.  I  met  with  a  man  whom  I  engaged  to  lead  me  to  the  sources  of  the 
Severn  and  the  Wye,  which  we  reached  after  a  good  deal  of  unpleasant 
wading  through  bogs  and  ditches.”  It  is  certainly  the  most  dangerous 
mountain  in  Wales,  on  account  of  frequent  marshes  concealed  under  a  smooth 
and  apparently  firm  turf.  The  ascent  to  Plinlimmon  should  never  be  at¬ 
tempted  without  a  guide.  At  a  cottage  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  on 
the  N.  E.  side,  a  conductor  may  sometimes  be  engaged ;  but  as  it  is  im¬ 
possible  for  any  person  to  gain  a  subsistence  from  the  donations  of  visitors, 
such  assistance  is  uncertain,  and  the  ascent  without  is  very  precarious,  if  not 
dangerous.  Descend  into  a  boggy  vale  by  a  very  difficult  road,  running  in 
a  winding  manner  along  the  precipitous  side  of  a  hill.  Proceed  along 
morassy  banks  having  the  Biga  mountains  on  the  r.,  and  those  which 
separate  the  Severn  from  the  Wye  on  the  1.  The  vale  next  diverging  to 
the  N.  and  s.  developes  the  mountain.  Reach  Blaen  Havren,  a  farm¬ 
house.  The  sheep  here  are  a  peculiar  breed.  Near  this  house  the  Severn 


S86 


LLANIDLOES. 


rolls  over  a  lofty  ledge  of  slate.  The  stream  may  be  followed  through  a 
dreary  district  to  a  chasm  of  schistose  rock.  Advancing  to  the  source^  this 
embryo  river  becomes  a  mere  ditch running  through  marshy  ground.  At 
a  short  distance  is  Blaen-yr-Havren,  the  Head  or  Spring/’  which  is 
here  a  strong  chalybeate^  leaving  an  ochreous  deposit  of  a  fine  orange 
colour^  several  inches  in  thickness.  The  chasm  continues  several  yards 
higher  than  the  spring ;  its  sides  exhibit  several  feet  of  peat  earth,  resting 
upon  a  deep  bed  of  white  marl.  In  the  vicinity  grow  Vitis  idaea,  Butomus 
nmbellatus,  Carex  pauciflora,  Schoenus  nigricans,  Scirpus  lacustris,  Scirpus 
palustris,  and  Eriophorum  polystachion.  The  summit  shoots  out  into  two 
small  heads,  upon  which  are  Carn-bach  Bugeilyn  and  Fuwch-wen.  That 
upon  the  highest  peak  is  of  a  pyramidal  shape,  perhaps  once  used  as 
a  military  beacon.  The  natives  who  ascend  this  summit,  place  one  or 
more  stones  upon  the  heap,  calling  it  Cornu-y-Plinlimmon  :  this  custom 
is  held  sacred.  Numerous  birds  frequent  the  mountain  :  ravens,  cranes, 
herons,  snipes,  both  the  lesser  and  greater,  with  flocks  of  plovers. 

At  Melin  Felindre  is  a  small  romantic  cataract.  Six  miles  up  at  Gafron 
is  an  old  copper-work.  Ascend  to  a  small  hamlet  called  Glyn  Havreii, 
and  sometimes  Ha-au-rian,  The  Queen.” 

Few  travellers  think  themselves  repaid  by  a  visit  to  this  mountain,  its 
perpendicular  height  being  far  exceeded  by  Snowdon  and  Cader  Idris.  It 
is  remarkable,  however,  that  this  dreary  spot  gives  birth  to  four  considerable 
rivers  two  of  which  stand  unrivalled  in  point  of  picturesque  beauty,  and 
the  third  (after  Father  Thames),  in  commercial  importance  :  the  Llyffnant, 
Bheidol,  Wye,  and  Severn.  Some  think  Plinlimmon  is  derived  from  Puin, 
five,  and  Lumon,  springs.  The  Rheidol  flows  from  the  Llyn  Llygad 
Rheidol,  and  taking  a  s.  w.  course,  falls  into  the  sea  at  Aberystwith.  On 
the  s.E.  side,  the  Wye  (or  Gwy,  British  for  river),  issues  from  two  large 
fountains,  so  called  by  way  of  eminence,  which  shortly  becomes  so  impa¬ 
tient  of  control,  as  to  rush  with  great  precipitation,  and  rolling  its  impetuous 
torrents  over  a  ledge  of  rocks,  forms  a  bold,  though  barren,  cascade  ;  taking 
a  s.  E.  direction,  after  watering  the  counties  of  Radnor,  Brecon,  and 
Monmouth,  it  flows  into  the  Severn  below  Chepstow.  The  springs  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  mountain  unite  in  a  considerable  lake  called  Glds  Llyn, 
wdience  flows  the  mountain  river  Llyfffiant,  which  joins  the  Dovey  near 
Machynlleth.  The  ascent  is  not  difficult  from  steepness,  but  troublesome 
from  the  frequent  bogs,  which  oblige  the  traveller  perpetually  to  change 
his  course.  Near  Llyn  Bugeilyn^  on  the  the  n.  e.  side,  rises  the  Se¬ 
vern.  The  inhabitants  of  the  country  call  this  river  Havren.  At  Llan¬ 
idloes  it  is  joined  by  a  small  river  bearing  the  name  of  Si  or  Se,  from 
the  hissing  sound  of  its  waters.  Here  a  double  junction  is  formed  of 
the  names  as  well  as  the  waters  of  these  cogenitors  of  the  Severn,  whence 
most  probably  is  derived  the  Latin  word  sabrina.  The  alteration  is  easy 
from  Sehavern,  or,  as  we  have  it  in  old  maps,  Seavren,  to  Severn.  It  then 
runs  N.  E.,  and  approaching  Newtown,  its  course  thence  is  due  n.  through 
the  vale  of  Montgomery.  Beyond  '\Felshpool  it  enters  the  great  plain  of 
Shropshire,  and  making  a  considerable  sweep,  turns  abruptly  to  the  s.e. 
It  then  almost  encircles  the  town  of  Shrewsbury,  pursuing  the  same  di¬ 
rection  till  it  passes  Colebrook  Dale.  Soon  after  it  flows  to  Bridgnorth 
and  enters  the  county  of  \Forcester  a  little  above  Bewdley,  wdrere  it  receives 
the  Stour  at  Stourport,  then  the  Salwarp  ;  soon  afterwards  it  accepts  the 
tribute  of  the  Beverborn  or  Otter  river.  Passing  the  pleasant  mansions  of 
Hallow  and  Henwick  Hill,  it  approaches  AForcester  in  a  broad  stream. 
Two  miles  below  Worcester  it  receives  the  Terae.  Previous  to  its  making 


LLANIDLOES. 


387 

its  entrance  into  Gloucestershire,  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Shakspeare- 
inspiring  Avon,  a  little  above  Tewkesbury,  then  passing  through  the  county 
receives  the  Wye  near  Chepstow,  the  Usk  near  Newport,  and  afterwards 
dissolves  in  the  British  Channel.  Severn  is  famed  for  the  fine  salmon  it 
affords.  Below  Gloucester  this  river  is  remarkable  for  the  uncommon 
vehemence  of  its  tides  occasioned  by  resistance  from  a  current  of  fresh 
water.  They  clash  in  such  a  manner  as  to  dash  the  waters  to  a  con¬ 
siderable  height.  This  contest  is  called  Hygra,  probably  from  eau 
guerre, a  water-war.  The  Severn  is  of  the  greatest  importance  as  a  na¬ 
vigable  river.  It  opens  a  conveyance  from  Montgomeryshire  in  N.  Wales, 
through  the  fertile  counties  of  Salop,  Worcester,  and  Gloucester  to  Bristol. 
The  vessels  employed  as  far  up  as  Shrewsbury  are  trows  or  barges  car¬ 
rying  from  40  to  120  tons  burden.  The  height  of  Plinlimmon  is  not 
great  when  compared  with  its  neighbour  Cader  Idris  ;  yet  the  view  from 
its  summit  is  extensively  grand,  though  part  of  it  lies  over  the  trackless 
sheep-downs  of  Montgomery,  and  the  barren  turbaries  of  Cardigan.  On 
the  N.  the  Cader  chain  appears  enveloped  in  mists,  stretching  out  towards 
the  sea ;  on  the  e.  are  the  Breidden  and  mountains  of  Radnor ;  on  the  w. 
the  romantic  vale  of  the  Rheidol,  the  estuary  of  the  Dovey,  and  the  beau¬ 
tiful  hay  of  Cardigan,  diversified  by  a  few  sails  of  vessels  at  Aberystwith 
and  Aberdovey,  with  the  grand  expanse  of  the  ocean  uniting  with  the 
horizon.  The  nearest  point  to  Plinlimmon,  where  any  kind  of  accom¬ 
modation  can  be  had,  is  at  the  village  of  Llangurig,  upon  the  s.  side  of  the 
mountain,  about  10  m.  from  the  source  of  the  4Pye.  The  traveller  may 
here  chance  to  be  supplied  with  golwyihion  neuwyau  (chops  or  eggs).  The 
parish  of  Llangurig  is  20  m.  across.  The  Church,  dedicated  to  St.  Curig, 
has  an  ancient  tower,  and  very  elegant  font.  It  will,  however,  never  be 
necessary  to  search  for  Llangurig  as  a  place  of  pleasing  accommodation,  as 
the  scenery  in  the  upper  sinuosities  of  the  Wye  becomes  more  known. 
The  Inn  will  probably  improve  and  afford  the  comforts  of  life.  If  the 
Wye  be  pursued,  the  tourist  must  necessarily  reach  Llangurig;  if  the 
Severn,  Llanidloes,  at  about  the  same  distance  from  their  sources.  If  his 
route  lie  n.  w.,  he  falls  into  the  road  from  Llanidloes  to  Machynlleth, 
and  reaches  the  latter  place  at  the  distance  of  8  m.  ;  or  he  may  pedes- 
trianise  the  banks  of  the  Dulas  from  Glas  Llyn.  Descending  by  a  dif¬ 
ferent  path  the  rugged  and  boggy  sides  of  the  mountain,  return  to  Blaen- 
Havren.  After  passing  a  rivulet  called  Hore,  running  to  the  s.  of  Havren, 
in  a  s.  E.  direction,  pass  the  Biga  mountains  at  Cwm  Biga,  and  passing 
Llyn-y-Gog,  cross  the  river  Clewedog  at  New  Mill,  and  reach  the  turnpike- 
road  from  Llanidloes  to  Machynlleth,  at  the  11th  milestone. 

This  mountain  is  not  only  famous  as  a  parent  of  rivers,  but  also  as  an 
important  station  held  by  Owain  Glyndwr  in  the  summer  of  1401,  who 
here  posted  himself  at  the  head  of  120  men  in  arms.  It  was  from  this 
place  that  he  harassed  the  country  exceedingly,  sacked  Montgomery,  burnt 
Pool,  and  destroyed  the  Abbey  of  Cwm  Hir  in  Radnorshire. 

The  LAND  here  is  wholly  maiden  turf.  The  hand  of  cultivation  has 
not  yet  approached  this  vicinity.  Its  sides,  as  well  as  the  adjacent  hills, 
were  totally  destitute  of  wood.  This  is  literally  a  land  of  sheep-walks  and 
of  shepherds,  though  not  of  Arcadian  scenes. 

To  PoNT-Y-MYNACH,  upou  the  great  road,  pass  Cwm  Bedan,  2  m.  Llan¬ 
gurig,  3  m.  Cross  the  river  at  Aber-bidno,  and  continue  with  the  Wye  on 
the  1.  ;  cross  the  latter  at  Pont  Rhyd-y-Gareg ,  m.  Proceed  with  the 
Tarrenig  river  on  the  1.  to  Steddfa  Gareg,  3  m.  3  fur.  ;  Ysbytty  Cynfyn, 

c  c  2 


388 


LLANIDLOES. 


5  m.  Cross  the  Pont-y-mynach,  or  the  Devil’s  Bridge  ;  Havod  Arms 
Inn,  ni.  affords  the  best  accommodation. 

To  Machynlleth^  the  roads  for  the  first  12  m.  are  so  bad  that  tra¬ 
vellers  in  carriages  are  necessitated  to  employ  an  additional  pair  of  horses. 
In  one  part  of  this  route  it  advances  for  m.  not  far  from  a  precipice 
of  50  ft.  from  the  rocky  stream  below.  On  the  outset^  the  infant  Severn 
is  crossed,  and  the  road  runs  between  hedgerows  of  birch  and  hazel,  en¬ 
closing  fields  of  wheat,  oats,  and  rye.  The  7th  milestone  opens  to  alpine 
sheep-downs  intermingled  with  morasses,  whence  peat  and  turf  are  dug 
for  fuel.  From  one  of  the  summits  which  are  frequent  on  this  line,  may 
be  seen  a  tolerably  extensive  lake  with  finely  indented  shores,  and  enclosed 
in  the  distance  by  rugged  mountains,  the  residence  of  grouse  and  black 
game.  The  Bachwy  river  originates  in  this  lake.  Before  reaching  the 
12th  milestone  a  more  than  usual  elevation  is  to  he  attained,  which  com¬ 
mands  a  striking  view  of  numerous  rugged  and  abrupt  hills.  About  the 
15th  milestone  the  land  seems  to  be  susceptible  of  cultivation,  producing 
barley.  Within  5  m.  of  Machynlleth  occurs  a  small  pot-house  where  not 
one  person  understands  English.  One  m.  further  enter  a  pleasing  vale 
watered  by  a  brook  which  falls  into  the  Dovey,  and  by  a  good  and  level 
road  proceed  through  woods,  corn-fields  and  farms,  to  the  delightfully- 
situated  town  of  Machynlleth. 

To  Newtown  the  road  winds  with  the  Severn  through  beautiful  and 
well-wooded  valleys.  At  f  m.  on  the  1.  is  Berthllwyd,  an  old  mansion 
belonging  to  the  family  of  Llwyd.  Two  m.  crossing  the  stream  and  as¬ 
cending  and  descending  the  mountain,  and  recrossing  the  flat  to  Berth~du, 
Charles  Williams,  Esq.,  some  beautiful  subjects  for  pictures  may  be  ob¬ 
tained.  Nearly  opposite  to  the  village  of  Lllanddinam  is  Trewithan,  the 
property  of  the  Rev.  Evan  Jones.  The  celebrated  Roman  station  of  Caer 
Sws  occurs  upon  the  course  of  the  Severn,  3  m.,  whence  branches  the  road 
called  Sarn  Swsan.  This  old  Roman  way  here  points  to  Meivod,  and  may 
be  traced  as  far  as  the  banks  as  the  Vyrnwy,  near  Llyssyn.  A  few  scat¬ 
tered  cottages,  with  an  old  wooden  bridge  of  sixteen  arches,  constitute  the 
hamlet  of  Caer  Sws.  The  ancient  remains  in  this  vicinity  show  that  it 
was  formerly  a  place  of  great  magnitude.  Three  encampments  may  still 
be  traced,  one  to  the  n.  called  Gwyn  Fynydd ;  another  to  the  e.  called 
Bhos  Ddiarhed,  and  the  third,  in  the  parish  of  Llanddinam.  Upon  the 
w.  side  of  the  hamlet  at  Cefn  Carnedd  similar  remains  appear.  The 
Frannon,  the  Cernest,  and  the  Caerno  pour  a  vast  influx  of  water  into 
the  main  stream  at  Caer  Sws. 

Maes  Mawr,  2^  m.,  is  the  seat  of  Edward  Davis,  Esq.  Two  or 
three  m.  further  down  at  Penstrowyd,  Roman  tiles  are  frequently  dug  up. 
Nearly  opposite  is  Afer  Hafesp,  a  pleasant  village. 

Penystrywad  Church,  stationed  upon  the  edge  of  the  road,  3i  m.,  is 
extremely  small  and  uninteresting.  In  the  cemetery  is  a  yew  tree  of  most 
extensive  girth.  To  Newtown,  through  a  fine  expanse  of  pasture  and  corn 
land,  3  m.  Rosa  villosa  grows  in  hedges  almost  all  the  way. 


Back  to  Newtown,  from  an  excursion  to  Plinlim- 
mon.  Evans. 

To  Newtown,  14  miles.  Bingley  ;  Evans  ;  Pugh. 
Strata  Florida,  about  20  miles.  Skrine. 


Back  to  Newtown,  14  miles.  Pennant. 

To  Plinlimmon,  about  12  miles. 

Rhaiadyr,  14  miles. 

Pont-ar-Fynach,  or  Devil’s  Bridge,  20  miles. 


389 


LLANSTEPHAN. 

From  Llaugharne,  3  miles.  Malkin.  I  From  Carmarthen,  7  miles.  Wyndham. 

Kidwelly,  7  nailes.  Skrinej  Evans.  | 

LLANSTEPHAN^  St.  Stephen’s  Church/’  in  the  hundred  of  Derllys, 
Carmarthenshire,  is  a  village,  the  situation  of  vrhich  is  peculiarly  interest¬ 
ing.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy,  in  the  joint  patronage  of  Messrs. 
Morris,  bankers  of  Carmarthen,  and  W.  Lloyd,  Esq.,  of  Laques,  a 
sequestered  part  of  the  parish,  containing  some  pleasant  scenery.  In  1831, 
the  population  of  this  parish,  consisting  of  the  hamlets  of  Aleston,  Laques, 
and  Llan-y-Bre,  was  1274.  St.  Anthony’s  Well  was  formerly  in  high  repute 
for  certain  miraculous  properties  ;  over  it  is  a  niche,  where  a  figure  of  the 
saint  was  placed.  A  chapel,  called  Marble  Church,  was  originally  attached 
to  the  establishment,  under  Llanstephan,  but  is  now  appropriated  to  the  use 
of  a  congregation  of  Independents.  Some  remains  of  a  castle  crown  the 
summit  of  a  bold  wooded  promontory,  the  precipitous  base  of  which  is 
washed  by  the  sea.  Its  broken  walls  enclose  a  large  area,  and,  encircled  by 
several  earthen  ramparts,  appear  to  have  possessed  considerable  strength. 
From  numerous  stations,  this  ruin  offers  a  truly  picturesque  appearance, 
and  in  the  approach,  charmingly  combines  with  the  surrounding  landscape, 
which,  ever  varying,  is  sometimes  confined  to  a  woody  character  ;  at  others, 
it  exhibits  the  wide  estuary,  a  rocky  promontory  forming  its  opposite  shore, 
and  the  boundless  sea.  This  castle  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  sons 
of  Uchtred,  Prince  of  Merioneth,  a.  d.  1 138,  but  soon  after  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Normans  and  Flemings  ;  in  1143  it  was  rescued  by  Meredydd 
Rhys,  and  Cade,  sons  of  GryfFydd  ap  Rhys,  Prince  of  S.  W ales,  and  so 
vigorously  fortified  and  defended  by  the  former  of  these  brothers,  to  whom 
it  was  entrusted,  that  the  utmost  force  of  the  Normans  was  unable 
to  retake  it,  On  this  occasion,  Meredydd  suffered  them  to  complete 
their  preparations  for  the  attack ;  the  scaling  ladders  were  fixed  and 
manned  ;  but  just  as  the  assailants  were  gaining  the  battlements,  he  caused 
certain  engines  so  to  bear  upon  the  enemy,  that  they  were  precipitated  to  the 
ground.”  However,  by  the  year  1189,  it  must  have  been  in  the  posses¬ 
sion  of  the  English,  as  Caradoc  informs  us  that  it  was  successfully  besieged 
by  Prince  Rhys,  or  Rees  ap  Gryffyth.  There  is  a  handsome  modern  house 
on  the  same  hill  on  which  the  castle  stands.  The  village  is  snugly  situated 
beneath  the  castle-capp’d  hill,’’  in  a  woody  hollow,  whence  a  lofty  ridge, 
commanding  extensive  views,  leads  to  a  neighbouring  estuary,  formed  by 
the  Towy,  near  its  junction  with  the  sea.  \Fhen  the  tide  is  out,  tourists 
cannot  avail  themselves  of  the  ferry  ;  but  the  sands  may  be  crossed  on  horse¬ 
back  with  a  guide. 

Llanstephan  Cottage,  the  residence  of  Thomas  Morris,  sen..  Esq.,  is 
finely  situated  near  the  river,  sheltered  in  the  rear  by  young  plantations. 
Llanstephan  Place,  George  Mears,  Esq.,  is  an  elegant  modern  mansion, 
situated  in  a  finely  wooded  demesne.  Proceeding  under  an  overhanging 
rock  of  red  granite,  crowned  with  the  ivy-mantled  remains  of  Laughabne 
Castle,  the  irregularly  built  town  appears.  To  this  spot  Mr.  Skrine  took 
the  ferry  over  the  estuary,  and  crossed  the  Towy  at  a  short  distance. 

The  whole  of  the  vale  from  Llanstephan  to  Ystrad  Ffin  abounds  with 
interesting  objects  of  various  descriptions.  The  first  expanse  of  country  to 
Carmarthen  is  rich  and  beautiful.  The  road  lies  mostly  along  the  w. 

c  0  3 


LLANTHONY. 


390 

ridge,  continually  commanding  the  river,  and  all  its  luxuriant  accompani¬ 
ments.  The  first  view  of  Carmarthen  is  particularly  striking.  The  three 
hills  backing  the  town,  the  decorated  villas,  castle,  bridge,  and  vessels  on 
the  river,  all  conspire  to  form  a  grand  and  impressive  scene. 

Mr.  Evans  took  a  boat  to  Carmarthen,  for  the  sake  of  viewing  to 
advantage  this  part  of  Ysti'ad  Towy.  On  the  L,  just  above  the  castle,  the 
river  makes  a  fine  curve,  forming  a  small  haven,  called  Green  Haven,  where 
vessels  wait  for  a  wind  to  pass  the  bar.  The  coracle  fishery  is  much 
practised  on  this  part  of  the  river.  At  Carmarthen,  the  landing  place  is 
near  a  fine  old  stone  bridge  of  seven  arches. 

To  Llaugharnc,  31  m.  Wyndham  ;  Skrine;  Barber.  ]  To  Carmarthen,  8  miles.  Malkin  ;  Evans. 


LLANTHONY. 

From  the  Hay,  11  miles.  Wyndham.  ]  From  Abergavenny,  10  miles.  Skrine. 

LLANTHONY  ABBEY  is  situated  about  10  m.  n.  of  Abergavenny, 
Monmouthshire,  in  a  deeply  secluded  vale.  It  was  a  Cistercian  house, 
founded  by  Walter  de  Lacy,  in  1103,  and  afterwards  endowed  liberally  by 
Milo,  Earl  of  Hereford.  Venerable  and  grand,  but  wholly  devoid  of 
ornament,  it  partakes  of  the  character  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  Not  a 
single  tendril  of  ivy  decorates  the  massive  walls  of  the  structure,  and  but 
a  sprinkling  of  shrubs  and  light  branchy  trees  fringe  the  parapets  or  shade 
the  broken  fragments  beneath.  The  area  of  the  church  is  not  very  exten¬ 
sive  ;  the  length  is  212  ft.,  and  breadth  50,  and  it  measures  100  across  the 
transept.  The  roof  has  long  since  fallen  in,  and  a  great  part  of  the  e.  and 
s.  walls  are  now  prostrate  ;  but  the  view  afforded  of  the  interior,  in  con¬ 
sequence,  is  grand.  A  double  row  of  pointed  arches,  reposing  on  massive 
piers,  separate  the  side  aisles  from  the  nave,  above  which,  divided  from 
the  Gothic  form  by  a  straight  fascia  or  band,  is  a  series  of  small  circular 
arches,  an  intermixture  and  arrangement  of  the  two  forms  which  charac¬ 
terise  the  earliest  use  of  the  pointed  architecture.  Two  lofty  arches, 
rising  from  the  middle  of  the  church,  still  sustain  a  massive  portion  of  the 
tower.  The  grandeur  of  the  w.  front  cannot  be  passed  unnoticed ;  nor 
while  surveying  the  fragments  of  the  choir,  the  fine  view  of  the  inside  ruin, 
seen  through  the  great  e.  arch  of  the  tower;  neither  is  a  small  chapel 
adjoining  the  s.  transept,  with  a  well-formed  engroined  roof,  to  be  over¬ 
looked  ;  the  transept  is  remarkable  for  a  large  Norman  archway,  which  led 
into  the  s.  aisle  of  the  choir.  Since  Mr.  Wyndham  ^isited  this  abbey,  in 
1777j  the  E.  front  has  fallen.  To  the  s.  of  this  chapel  are  the  remains  of 
an  oblong  room,  which  was  probably  the  chapter-house  ;  beyond  is  a  door¬ 
way,  similar  to  that  of  the  chapel,  communicating  with  some  apartments 
now  dilapidated.  Many  portions  of  building  appear  in  detached  heaps 
near  the  abbey  church,  particularly  a  hold  arch  in  a  neighbouring  barn, 
which  seems  to  have  formed  the  principal  entrance  to  the  abbey.  Among 
these,  the  natives  point  out  a  low  subterraneous  passage,  faced  with  hewn 
stone,  which  they  suppose  to  have  had  a  connection  with  Old  Castle,  about 
3  m.  distant.  A  mixture  of  Saxon  and  pointed  characters  prevail  in  this 
abbey  ;  the  latter  style,  however,  gains  ground  considerably,  and  it  is 
curious  to  trace  the  building  out  of  the  new  mouldings  from  those  of  the 
Saxon ;  the  ornaments  seem  more  prominent  in  this  respect :  hence  Llan- 
thony,  like  Canterbury,  forms  an  excellent  school  for  the  study  of  the  Rise 


LLANTRISAINT. 


391 

and  Progress  of  English  Architecture.”  {Gent.  Mag.,  ]\Tay  1810.)  St. 
David_,  the  uncle  of  King  Arthur  (say  ancient  legends),  was  so  struck  with 
this  sequestered  recess,  then  almost  unconscious  of  a  human  footstep,  that 
he  built  a  chapel  on  the  spot,  and  passed  many  years  in  it. 

“  A  little  lonely  hermitage  it  was, 

Down  in  a  dale,  hard  by  a  forest’s  side, 

Far  from  resort  of  people,  that  did  pas 
In  traveil  to  and  fro  :  a  little  wyde 
There  was  an  holy  chapell  edify de. 

Wherein  the  hermit  dewly  went  to  say 
His  holy  things,  each  morn  and  eventyde ; 

Thereby  a  chrystall  streame  did  gently  play, 

Which  from  a  sacred  fountain  welled  forth  alway.” 

Faery  Queen. 

It  is  said  that  William,  a  retainer  of  the  Earl  of  Hereford,  in  the  reign 
of  William  Rufus,  being  led  to  the  valley  in  pursuit  of  a  deer,  espied  the 
hermitage.  The  deep  solitude  of  the  place,  and  the  mysterious  appearance 
of  the  building,  conspired  to  fill  him  with  religious  enthusiasm  ;  and  he 
instantly  disclaimed  all  worldly  enjoyments. 

This  abbey  was  rebuilt,  and  the  monastery  appropriated  to  Augustine 
monks,  by  Sir  William  de  Lacy,  in  the  year  1108.  The  mountains  of 
Ewias,  now  called  the  Hatterel  Hill,  rise  above  the  monastery  of  Llanthony, 
and  join  the  Black  Mountains  of  Talgarth  at  Capel-y-fin,  or  the  Chapel 
upon  the  Boundary,  near  which  the  counties  of  Hereford,  Brecon,  and 
Monmouth,  form  a  point  of  union. 

About  3  m.  to  the  n.  e.  of  Llanthony  Abbey,  stands  the  village  of  Long- 
town,  in  a  most  secluded  and  romantic  situation,  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
Mynnaw,  near  its  junction  with  the  Escley  and  Olclion,  one  of  which  rises 
near  the  other,  and  give  beauty  to  the  country,  through  which  they  flow  in 
a  s.  direction.  This  place  has  been  identifled  by  some  as  the  Roman 
Blestium.  This  village  is  in  the  hundred  of  Ewyas  Lacy,  in  the  parish  of 
Clodock,  and  has  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  of  the  value  of  \6l.  per 
annum,  in  the  patronage  of  W.  Wilkins,  Esq.  The  population  of  this 
village  in  1801,  was  768.  It  is  situated  17  m.  in  a  s.  w.  direction  from 
Hereford,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Hatterel  Hill,  or  Black  Mountain. 
Of  the  castle,  but  a  portion  of  the  keep  remains  ;  it  stands  upon  rising 
ground,  surrounded  by  a  ditch,  encompassed  by  a  rampart.  History  is 
silent  both  as  to  the  founder  of  this  fortress  and  the  date  of  its  erection.  A 
good  print  of  it  appears  in  the  Topographical  Cabinet,  vol.  vi. 

To  Abergavenny,  11  miles.  Wyndham.  1  To  Crickhowell,  9  miles.  Skrine. 


LLANTRISAINT. 

From  Coity,  8  miles.  Barber. 

LLANTRISAINT,  in  the  Cwmwd,  or  hundred  of  Meisgyn  Cantref 
of  Penythen,  Glamorganshire,  is  pleasantly  situated  upon  the  s.  side  of  the 
mountain,  bounding  the  n.  extremity  of  the  vale  of  Glamorgan.  When 
viewed  at  a  distance  from  the  s.,  this  place  has  a  respectable  appearance, 
but  on  entering  the  street,  little  of  importance  can  be  discovered.  A  lofty 
tower  remains  of  its  ancient  castle.  The  vestiges  of  its  outworks  are  nearly 
obliterated  or  concealed  by  entangling  shrubs.  The  population  of  this 

c  c  4 


LLANTRISAINT. 


S92 

parish  in  1821,  was  2585 ;  in  1831,  2789*  Within  the  precincts  of  the  castle 
is  a  neat  Market  House,  and  Town  Hall,  erected  at  the  expense  of  the 
Earl  of  Bute.  The  petty  Sessions  for  the  hundred  of  Miskin  are  held  here. 
It  has  a  large  market.  The  Church,  dedicated  to  Illtyd,  Tyfodwg,  and 
Gwynno,  is  a  large  Norman  edifice  ;  the  living  is  a  vicarage  ;  patron.  Dean 
and  Chapter  of  Gloucester.  In  this  parish  are  two  Chapels,  one  at  Aberdar, 
called  St.John’s,  the  other  Talygarn.  Here  was  the  birthplace  of  the  cele¬ 
brated  Sir  Llywelyn  Jenkins,  secretary  of  state  to  James  II.  The  cemetery 
of  the  church  commands  a  surprisingly  extensive  view.  This  place  unites 
with  Cardiff,  Swansea,  &c.,  in  sending  one  member  to  Parhament.  This 
district  abounds  in  lead  ore,  the  property  of  the  Marquess  of  Bute,  who  is 
lord  of  the  manor.  The  principal  inns  are  the  Cross  Keys  and  New 
Inn.  There  is  a  good  road  from  this  ancient  town  to  Pont-y-Prydd. 

At  a  short  distance  from  Llantrisaint,  on  the  r.,  are  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  monastery,  dedicated  to  St.  Cawrdaf,  which,  though  of  no  great 
extent,  is  more  distinct  and  complete,  than  almost  anything  of  the  kind  re¬ 
maining.  About  Pentyrch,  dedicated  to  Cattwg,  are  very  extensive  collie¬ 
ries,  which  abound,  likewise,  in  ironstone.  One  of  these  mines  was  on  fire 
many  years.  About  the  year  1797,  Mr.  Richards,  jun.,  the  son  of  a  re¬ 
spectable  clergyman  at  Llantrisaint,  in  pursuit  of  game,  fell  up  to  the  middle 
in  a  bed  of  the  ashes,  then  burning ;  he  was  extricated  with  difficulty,  but 
much  scorched.  At  present  the  fire  seems  to  be  extinct.  The  country 
from  Pentyrch  to  Llandaff  is  fine,  without  any  very  marked  object,  except 
an  inscription  at  Capel  Llaniltern,  in  the  corner  of  the  tower  without,  said 
to  be  to  the  memory  of  Arthur’s  wife. 

Pont-y-Pbydd  (the  bridge  of  the  e.  house),  or  the  New  Bridge,  is  an 
extraordinary  piece  of  masonry,  consisting  of  a  single  arch,  thrown  across 
the  river  Taff.  The  architect  and  builder  of  this  bridge  was  William 
Edwards,  son  of  a  farmer  of  the  parish  of  Eglwysilan,  born  in  1719- 
Having  a  natural  genius  for  masonry,  he  was  observed  to  excel  in  that  art, 
and  in  1746,  undertook  to  build  a  new  bridge  over  the  river  Taff,  consist¬ 
ing  of  three  arches  ;  but  owing  to  the  uncommon  rapidity  of  this  river, 
when  swelled  by  long  and  heavy  rains,  the  bridge  was,  soon  after  its  erec¬ 
tion,  swept  away.  He  had  given  ample  security  for  its  stability  for  seven 
years,  and  he  proceeded  on  his  duty  in  erecting  another,  with  all  possible 
speed.  The  second  bridge  was  of  one  arch  ;  the  span  or  chord,  1 40  ft., 
its  altitude,  35  ft.  The  arch  was  finished,  but  the  parapets  not  erected, 
when  the  pressure  of  the  ponderous  work  over  the  haunches  caused  the 
arch  to  spring  up  in  the  middle,  and  the  key-stones  were  forced  out.  This 
was  a  severe  blow,  but  the  spirit  of  Edwards  was  not  to  be  disconcerted. 
He  engaged  in  the  work  a  third  time,  and,  by  means  of  three  cylindrical 
holes  through  the  work  over  the  haunches,  reduced  the  weight.  The 
second  bridge  fell  in  1751  ;  the  third,  which  has  stood  ever  since,  was 
completed  in  1755.  The  rialto  was  long  considered  the  largest  arch  in 
Europe,  if  not  in  the  world.  Its  chord  was  9^  ft.,  but  this  measures 
140  ft.,  and  still  stands  pre-eminent  among  stone  bridges.  (See  an 
ample  account  of  the  architect  of  this  structure  in  Malkin’s  South  Wales, 
vol.  i.  p.  132.)  But  the  invention  of  iron  bridges  eclipses  every  other. 
The  one  at  Colebrook  Dale  was  the  first  of  this  kind  formed  in  England  ; 
its^span,  or  chord,  is  100  ft.  6  in.;  that  at  Stourport  is  150  ft.,  and  another 
at  Sunderland  is  236  ft.  8  in. 

Two  Waterfalls,  called  Salmon  Leaps,  in  this  neighbourhood,  deserve 
notice.  They  are  thus  described  by  Mr.  Barber:  —  ^^One  occurs  about  m. 
above  the  bridge.  A  delightful  sylvan  path  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  under 


LLANTRISAINT. 


89S 

the  beetling  brow  of  Ci'aig-yr-usk  leads  to  it.  The  river  is  seen  for  a  con¬ 
siderable  distance,  struggling  through  a  region  of  rocks,  which,  in  some 
places,  rise  in  large  masses  above  its  surface,  and  in  others,  appear  through 
the  transparency  of  the  stream,  shelving  to  a  considerable  depth  ;  wearing 
throughout,  the  odd  appearance  of  a  vast  assemblage  of  cubes,  variously 
heaped,  but  with  one  face  constantly  horizontal  ;  at  length  the  stream  breaks 
over  a  compact  stratum,  yet  only  in  a  fall  of  8  or  10  ft.  which  is  divided 
into  several  streams.  The  white  foam  of  the  river,  and  the  light  gray  tint 
of  the  rocks,  afford  a  strong  contrast  to  the  mixed  verdure  and  dark  shadows 
of  its  banks ;  but,  on  the  whole,  the  subject  is  rather  to  be  noticed  for  its 
singularity,  than  for  any  leading  points  of  picturesque  beauty.  The  other 
cascade  of  the  tributary  river  Rhaiadyr,  seems  more  agreeably  composed, 
being  at  the  distance  of  2  m.  from  the  bridge.  The  dark  rocks,  which 
occasion  the  fall,  the  surrounding  crags,  the  light  and  pendant  foliage 
which  adorns  them,  and  the  vigorous  trees  which  emerge  from  the  banks, 
are  all  disposed  with  the  utmost  symmetry,  and  form  a  highly  pleasing 
picture,  though  of  inconsiderable  dimensions.”  The  new  bridge  is  seen 
with  great  advantage  from  the  front  of  this  fall. 

Mr.  Skrine  proceeded  down  a  winding  vale,  upon  a  beautiful  terrace, 
above  the  banks  of  the  Taff,  till  he  reached  the  road  which  deviates  to 
Caerphilly  Castle. 

When  Mr.  Barber  and  his  companion  visited  this  bridge,  they  made  an 
excursion  not  only  to  the  waterfalls,  but  towards  Merthyr  Tydvil,  in 
order  rather  to  trace  the  beauties  of  the  Taff,  than  to  examine  the  con¬ 
siderable  iron  works  in  that  neighbourhood.  At  one  time,  a  towering  hill, 
completely  wooded,  the  shaggy  summit  of  which  was  elevated  to  the  clouds, 
in  succession,  naked  rocks  perpendicularly  descended  to  the  water,  or 
through  favoured  hollows,  stripes  of  green  slanting  meadows  mixed  their 
verdure  with  the  stream.  Advancing,  the  narrow  valley  was  still  further 
contracted,  and  the  river,  confined,  by  the  approaching  basis  of  the  moun¬ 
tains,  assumed  the  character  of  a  torrent.  Their  road  was  on  one  margin 
of  the  river,  while  a  canal,  singularly  abounding  with  rocks,  ran  along  the 
other,  to  the  cyclopean  region  of  Merthyr  Tydvil.  They  did  not  enter  the 
town,  but  re-measured  their  steps  to  Pont-y-Prydd,  and  about  4  m.  below 
it,  bade  adieu  to  the  romantic  course  of  the  Taff,  by  deviating  up  a  steep 
confine  of  its  valley  towards  the  town  and  castle  of  Caerphilly. 

While  atPont-y-Prydd,  Mr.  Manby,  observing  that  the  Rontha  was  a  large 
stream,  though  tributary  to  the  Taff,  was  induced  to  explore  it.  He  reached 
a  bridge  of  two  arches,  w^here  the  banks  were  thickly  shaded  with  wood. 
At  the  distance  of  2  m.,  he  found  Berw  Rhonda  (the  foam  of  the  Rhonda), 
formed  by  a  contraction  of  the  river,  which  rushes  through  an  opening  in 
the  rock,  with  great  force,  forming  a  cascade,  enveloped  in  white  foam. 
On  his  return  to  the  Bridgwater  Arms,  near  Pont-y-Prydd,  he  crossed  the 
river  by  a  narrow  wooden  foot-bridge.  Leaving  this  public-house,  he 
continued  to  follow  the  canal  for  about  14  m.,  when  he  deviated  to  the 
banks  of  the  Taff,  to  examine  the  celebrated  fall  and  salmon  leap,  called 
Rhaiadyr  Riske,  which  is  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  seen  from  Pont-y-Prydd. 
The  fall,  broken  by  rocky  projections,  is  15  ft.  in  height,  and  the  scenery 
enchantingly  beautiful.  Returning  to  the  road,  the  country  abounds  with 
mountain  scenery,  and  the  singular  effect  of  sixteen  locks,  the  canal  aque¬ 
duct  over  the  river,  and  a  mill  upon  a  tributary  brook,  are  features  of  con¬ 
siderable  gratification.  Turning  to  the  1.  at  the  Quaker’s  burying  ground, 
the  road  ascends  to  an  eminence  with  the  river  Taff,  and  railroad  under¬ 
neath  on  the  1.  In  proceeding  towards  the  new  colony  at  Merthyr  Tydvil, 


LLANFIHANGEL  RHYDITHON, 


394 

the  valley  becomes  sprinkled  with  numerous  edifices^  and^  on  advancing, 
the  ear  is  assailed  by  the  strokes  of  massive  hammers  and  the  roar  of 
furnaces. 

Few  scenes  are  more  agreeable  than  the  drive  from  Pont-y-Prydd  to 
Cardiff.  The  road  lies  along  the  shady  banks  of  the  raging  TafF  for  6  or 
7  m.  The  country  is  finely  diversified  by  the  inequality  of  the  mountains, 
on  each  side  of  the  torrent.  Two  of  them  are  richly  wooded,  and  almost 
contiguous.  At  the  toll-gate  of  Nant-garw,  the  road  turns  on  the  1.  to 
Caerphilly. 

The  Dukes  Arms,  on  this  road,  is  a  respectable  inn.  A  curious  canal 
runs  parallel  all  the  way.  The  hills  that  terminate  this  narrow  vale 
are  lofty  and  precipitate,  but  clothed  with  an  almost  exhaustless  magnifi¬ 
cence  of  wood.  It  is  with  difficulty  that  an'  admirer  of  mountain  valleys, 
whose  route  requires  him  to  turn  on  the  1.  to  Caerphilly  Castle,  can 
persuade  himself  to  exchange  this  theatre  of  enchantment  for  that  rude 
and  laborious  path,  there  being  nothing  to  afford  him  gratification,  except 
the  sight  of  Energlyn,  the  seat  of  John  Goodrich,  Esq.  At  Porto  Bello, 
where  the  road  turns  to  Caerphilly,  the  mountains  appear  to  close  on  each 
side;  that  along  the  side  of  which  you  journey,  is  romantically  topped  by 
a  very  picturesque  castle,  in  ruins,  called  Castell  Cock,  or  Red  Castle.  This 
venerable  seat  was  long  the  residence  of  If  or  Bach,  or  Ifor  Petil,  who 
gallantly  headed  the  inhabitants  of  Glamorgan  for  the  purpose  of  forcing 
Fitzhamon  and  his  son-in-law,  Robert  Earl  of  Gloucester,  to  restore  to 
their  country  its  ancient  laws  and  privileges.  This  castle  was  a  dependency 
on  Cardiff,  and  a  sort  of  outpost.  Leaving  these  mountains,  the  vale  of 
Glamorgan  is  entered,  and  we  reach  Melin  Gryffydd  Tin  Wo7'ks,  on  the  r., 
4  m.  from  Cardiff.  These  works  are  perhaps  the  largest  in  the  kingdom, 
producing  not  less  than  13,000  boxes  of  tin  plates,  each  containing  225 

to  250  plates,  in  one  year.  They  are  the  property  of  - Blakemore, 

Esq.,  who  has  a  handsome  residence  near  the  place,  and  the  canal  runs 
close  by  the  works.  Not  far  hence,  the  road  towards  LlandafiT  crosses  the 
canal,  while  that  to  Cardiff  lies  straight  forwards.  There  are  few  occur¬ 
rences  more  gratifying  to  the  mind  than  the  contrast  of  the  scenery  which 
lies  higher  up  the  vale,  compared  with  that  of  Llandaff  bridge,  a  venerable 
structure,  overhung  with  ivy.  The  river,  from  a  rapid  noisy  shallow 
torrent,  becomes  here  gentle  and  glassy,  like  a  lake.  The  character  of  the 
country,  too,  is  altogether  different ;  here  it  affords,  perhaps,  the  most  ad¬ 
vantageous  specimen  of  richness  and  cultivation  to  be  met  with  in  Gla¬ 
morganshire. 

To  Pont-y-Prydd,  5  miles.  1  To  Merthyr  Tydvil,  18  miles. 

Cardiff,  IQi  miles.  |  Caerphilly,  8  m.,  through  Nant  Garw.  Barber. 

Cowbridgei  7  miles.  j  Bridgend,  10^  miles. 


LLANFIHANGEL  RHYDITHON. 


From  Pen-y-bont,  3  miles. 

From  Rhaiadyr,  13  miles. 
Knighton,  11  miles. 


From  Presteign,  12  miles. 

Llandrindod  Wells,  8  miles. 


Passing  along  the  new  road  which  has  been  recently  formed  at  con¬ 
siderable  expense  from  the  towns  of  Presteign  and  Knighton  to  Pen-y-bont 
in  the  county  of  Radnor,  we  arrive  at  the  secluded  but  romantic  village  of 
Llanfihangel  llhydithon,  situated  in  a  pleasant  valley  upon  the  n.  w.  side  of 


LLANFIHANGEL  RHYDITHON.  395 

the  forest  of  Radnor.  The  situation  of  this  village  may  be  appositely 
described  in  the  beautiful  lines  of  Goldsmith  :  — 

“  The  never-failing  brook,  the  busy  mill, 

The  decent  church  which  tops  the  neighbouring  hill.” 

The  parish  derives  its  name  from  the  dedication  of  its  church  to  St. 
Michael^  its  distinguishing  adjunct  signifying  the  ford  of  the  Ithon_,  a  river 
in  its  vicinity.  The  living  is  a  perpetual  curacy  not  in  charge,  and  is 
held  conjointly  with  the  neighbouring  church  of  Llanddewi ;  patron,  the 
prebendary  of  Llanbister.  The  population  in  1839  was  367;.  and  the 
number  of  houses  62.  The  surface  is  hilly,  and  the  soil  various,  being  in 
some  parts  fertile  and  productive,  and  in  other  parts  comparatively  poor 
It  is  generally  well  wooded,  and  upon  the  e.  and  s.e.  side,  are  thriving 
plantations  of  oak,  larch,  and  Scotch  firs.  The  surrounding  scenery  is 
pleasingly  varied,  and  from  the  higher  grounds  some  good  views  are 
obtained  over  the  adjacent  country.  The  most  attractive  object,  however, 
to  the  traveller,  is  the  elegant  and  commodious  Church,  which  was  rebuilt 
in  the  year  1838,  when  the  ruinous  and  dilapidated  state  of  the  old  church 
had  rendered  it  totally  unfit  for  the  celebration  of  divine  service.  The 
present  building  is  erected  in  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture,  and  has  a 
lofty  embattled  tower  of  wrought  stone.  Indeed,  the  tourist  will  he  agree¬ 
ably  surprised  to  discover  in  this  remote  district  so  pleasing  a  memorial  to 
the  honour  of  God’s  name.  The  tower  contains  a  good  clock  and  a 
musical  peal  of  five  bells.  The  interior  also  is  fitted  up  with  every  con¬ 
venience  for  public  worship,  and  to  render  it  still  more  complete,  a  well- 
tuned  organ,  by  Flight  and  Sons  of  London,  in  a  case  of  Gothic  design 
agreeably  harmonising  with  the  building,  has  been  recently  added  at  the 
expense  of  the  parishioners.  The  eastern  window'  in  the  chancel  is  splen¬ 
didly  embellished  with  stained  glass  of  very  brilliant  colours,  executed  by 
Mr.  J.  Stephenson  of  Bath,  and  in  the  central  compartment  of  which  is  a 
representation  of  Glory,”  emanating  from  a  dove  with  expanded  wings. 
There  are  several  mural  monuments  chiefly  to  the  family  of  the  Moores  of 
Old  Hall,  to  the  munificence  of  whose  descendants  the  elegant  embel¬ 
lishments  of  the  church  are  mainly  to  be  attributed.  The  whole  structure 
is  well  worthy  of  inspection,  and  will  amply  repay  the  curiosity  of  the 
traveller  for  any  time  he  may  occupy  in  viewing  it. 

The  benefactions  to  the  poor  of  this  parish,  as  appears  from  the 
Charity  Commissioners’  Report,”  published  subsequently  to  the  1st  of 
March  1837j,  are  as  follow  :  — 

Barlow’s  Charity,  10s.  per  annum. 

Davies’  - -  10s.  ■ 

Edwards’ -  10s.  - 

Clarkes’  -  10s.  - 

These  several  sums,  under  the  superintendence  of  the  churchwardens  and 
overseers,  are  regularly  distributed  half  yearly  amongst  the  most  destitute 
of  the  second  class  of  poor.  The  charity  mentioned  above  as  Clarke’s 
Charity”  (but  which  some  writers  have  ascribed  to  a  Dr.  Berglio),  was  in 
the  month  of  December,  1837:,  together  with  the  interest  of  1001.  for  the 
same  benevolent  purpose,  the  bequest  of  Mrs.  Anne  Moore  of  Old  Hall, 
deceased,  secured  by  Richard  Moore,  Esq.  of  Presteign,  the  son  of  that  lady, 
as  a  rent  charge  for  ever  upon  his  estate  called  Trevorgan,  in  this  parish. 

We  will  merely  add  en  passant,  that  a  daily  coach  from  Birmingham  to 
Aberystwith  traverses  the  new  road  during  the  summer  months,  and  that 
comfortable  accommodation  may  be  obtained  at  the  Old  Hall  Inn,  a  re¬ 
spectable  house  about  half  a  mile  from  the  church. 


LLAN-Y-MYNACH. 

From  Welshpool,  9  miles.  Pennant ;  Bingley.  I  From  Oswestry,  6  miles.  Warner. 

Llanrhaiadyr,  11  miles.  Bingley.  1  Shrewsbury,  17  miles.  Aikin. 

LLAN-Y-MYNACH^  the  Monk’s  Vale/’  is  situated  on  the  w.  border 
of  Shropshire,  upon  the  hanks  of  the  Vyrnwy.  This  parish  contains  three 
townships,  Carreg  Hwva,  Llwyn  Tydmon,  and  Treprenal ;  the  first  lies 
in  a  detached  part  of  Denbighshire  ;  the  two  latter  are  separated  by  Offas 
Dyke,  and  are  situated  in  Shropshire.  The  river  Tanat  washes  its  w.  side, 
dividing  it  from  the  parishes  of  Llanymlodvoel  and  Llansantfraid  ;  then 
joining  the  Vyrnwy,  it  bounds  its  s.  part,  dividing  it  from  the  parishes  of 
Llansantfraid  and  Llandysilio.  The  Morda  divides  it  on  the  e.  from  Kin- 
nersley,  and  on  the  n.  it  joins  the  parish  of  Oswestry.  The  Vyrnwy 
becomes  navigable  here  in  the  winter  months  for  barges  of  40  or  50  tons 
burden.  The  Montgomeryshire  branch  of  the  grand  canal,  which  opens  a 
communication  between  the  rivers  Severn,  Dee,  and  Mersey,  passes  through 
this  parish,  and  crosses  the  Vyrnwy.  Great  quantities  of  Llangynog 
slate  have  been  sent  hence  to  Bristol ;  and  of  late  years,  ores  of  lead  and 
zinc  have  been  conveyed  by  the  Stafford  canal  from  Stourport  to  Bir¬ 
mingham,  Macclesfield,  and  other  places.  The  river  Vyrnwy  abounds  with 
fish,  as  do  also  its  tributaries  the  Banwy  and  Oweddyn.  The  abundance  of 
salmon  trout,  grayling,  &c.,  entitle  them  to  the  appellation  piscosi  amnes.” 
On  the  Banwy  occurs  a  beautiful  waterfall  near  Dolaney  Bridge.  Mr.  Pen¬ 
nant  reckoned  twenty  different  species  of  the  finny  tribe  which  frequent  this 
branch  of  the  aquatic  regions.  The  Church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Agatha  ; 
the  living  is  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  the  bishop  of  St.  Asaph.  The  chancel 
contains  the  remains  of  a  wife  and  daughter  of  Dr.  George  Gryffith,  Bishop 
of  St.  Asaph,  who  was  formerly  rector  of  this  parish.  He  died  Nov.  2S.  l66'6, 
and  was  buried  in  the  choir  of  the  cathedral  of  St.  Asaph.  There  is  an 
inscription  on  the  n.  side  of  the  communion  table  to  Charles  Pindar,  Esq. 
of  Edinshaw,  Cheshire,  barrister-at-law,  recorder  of  Wenlock;  he  died 
Aug.  30.  1692.  The  township  of  Carreg  Hwfa,  which  is  a  detached 
part  of  the  county  of  Denbigh,  makes  its  own  parochial  returns.  This 
parish  is  about  3  m.  long  and  broad.  The  townships  of  Llwyn  Tydmon 
and  Treprennel  united,  about  the  year  1791j  with  several  neighbouring 
parishes  in  erecting  a  House  of  Industry  at  Oswestry.  The  soil  is  of 
various  qualities  ;  in  the  higher  grounds  it  is  gravelly  and  most  friendly  to 
tillage:  the  lower  parts  consist  of  loamy  sand  and  clay,  producing  excellent 
pasturage.  The  climate  is  favourable  both  to  animal  and  vegetable  life. 
The  land  occupiers  are  indifferent  farmers,  because  rack-rent  cramps  the 
sinews  of  labour  and  dislocates  the  joints  of  industry.  It  checks,”  says 
Dr.  Anderson,  “  even  the  thought  of  attempting  any  improvement.”  A 
remedy  for  this  evil,  to  the  advantage  of  the  landlord,  may  be  found  in 
the  plan  of  perpetual  leases  projected  by  Lord  Kaimes.  There  is  scarcely 
an  inhabitant  here  who  cannot  speak  both  English  and  ^Velsli.  Llan-y- 
Mynach  is  a  beautiful  angling  station.  A  few  miles  below  the  village,  the 
Vyrnwy  joins  the  Severn.  The  Cynlleth  and  the  Tanat  are  in  the  im¬ 
mediate  vicinity.  Here  are  abundance  of  trout  and  samlets.  The  orange 
fly  seems  to  be  a  favourite. 

Upon  Llan-y-mynach  Hill  about  150  men  are  generally  employed  in 
burning  lime  during  the  summer  season,  and  in  winter  50  in  raising  and 
breaking  the  stone.  Lime  is  found  in  every  part  of  the  line  which  divides 


LLAN-Y-MYNACH. 


397 

the  moimtains  from  the  plains  on  the  frontier  of  N.  Wales.  The  beds  of 
limestone  in  some  places  lie  on  sandstone,  and  in  other  places  are  found 
below  it.  In  others  again  the  limestone  is  near  the  bottom  of  a  hill,  sand¬ 
stone  occupies  the  middle  space,  and  limestone  is  again  found  upon  the 
summit.  This  hill  affords  also  copper,  zinc,  lead,  and  calamine.  It  seems 
to  have  been  wrought  in  the  time  of  the  Romans.  One  vestige  of  their 
labours  appears  in  an  artificial  cave  of  an  immense  length,  called  Ogov, 
whence  they  obtained  copper.  The  windings  of  this  cavern  are  numerous 
and  intricate.  About  the  year  I76O,  some  miners  found  in  the  recesses 
of  this  place,  several  skeletons,  some  culinary  utensils,  a  fire-place,  and  a 
small  hatchet.  One  skeleton  had  a  bracelet  of  glass  beads  encircling  the 
left  wrist,  and  a  battle-axe  on  one  side.  There  was  also  discovered  a 
number  of  Roman  coins  of  Antoninus,  Faustina,  and  others.  About 
15  years  after,  other  miners  found  several  human  bones  and  a  golden 
bracelet  round  a  wrist.  Tools  judged  to  be  Roman,  have  been  also  found, 
some  of  which  are  preserved  in  the  library  of  Shrewsbury  Free  School. 
One  glass  bead  and  one  copper  coin  were  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Robert 
Baugh  of  this  place,  who  kept  the  inn  of  the  Cross  Keys  and  was  the 
ingenious  engraver  of  the  nine  sheet  map  of  North  Wales,  by  John 
Evans,  Esq.  of  Llyn-y-groes.  From  the  summit  is  an  extensive  view 
over  the  plains  towards  Shrewsbury,  on  the  e.  ;  and  on  the  other  side 
appears  the  rugged  county  of  Montgomery.  The  Severn,  and  its  tributary 
streams  the  Vyrnwy  and  Tanat,  may  be  seen  proceeding  from  their  re¬ 
spective  vales;  they  at  length  unite  and  flow  into  the  fertile  plain  of  Shrews¬ 
bury.  At  a  considerable  distanee,  when  enlightened  by  the  sun,  may  be 
seen  the  glistening  waterfall  of  Pistyll  Rhaiadyr  ;  on  the  1.  are  the  Breiddin 
Hills,  and  in  front  the  Ferwyn  Mountains  compose  the  distant  horizon. 
The  plants  on  the  rock  indicate  the  presence  of  calcareous  earth,  as  An- 
thyllis  vulneraria,  Cistus  helianthemum,  and  Rosa  spinosissima.  On  the 
w.  side  of  Llan-y-Mynach  Hill  runs  the  rampart  formed  by  Offa  king  of 
Mercia,  to  divide  his  territory  from  Wales,  called  Clawdd  Ojfa,  or  Ojfas 
Dike ;  it  commences  at  the  river  Wye  near  Bristol,  and  passes  along  the 
counties  of  Hereford,  Radnor,  part  of  Salop  and  Denbigh,  and  terminates 
near  Treuddyn  in  Flintshire.  This  barrier  formed  a  line  of  separation 
between  the  two  countries  till  about  the  Conquest.  The  late  ingenious 
Mr.  Evans  in  his  survey  of  N.  Wales,  discovered  that  Offa  diseontinued 
his  dike  near  Treuddyn  in  Flintshire  ;  and  that  the  foss  which  terminates 
on  the  Dee  near  Basingwerk,  commences  at  Maeshury  near  Oswestry, 
about  1  m.  below  Offa’s  Dike,  from  which  Wattstay  (now  Wynstay)  de¬ 
rived  its  name.  Parallel  with  two  other  dikes  across  this  hill,  a  stupendous 
rampart  of  loose  stones  with  a  deep  foss,  extends  along  the  brow  of  the 
hill.  This  was  probably  constructed  by  the  Romans  to  guard  their  ores 
from  the  plunder  of  the  Britons.  Upon  the  eastern  brow  of  this  hill  once 
stood  a  Cromlech  measuring  7  ft.  by  6',  and  18  in.  thick.  It  was  taken 
down  from  the  vain  desire  of  searching  for  treasure,  in  which  state  it  lies. 
It  is  thus  that  avarice  stimulates  men  to  overthrow  even  the  altars  of  our 
forefathers.  From  the  same  station  on  the  s.  e.  see  Llyn-y~groes,  once 
the  seat  of  John  Evans,  Esq.  before  mentioned,  a  worthy  and  ingenious 
man  who  died  in  1795.  To  the  s.w.  lies  Carey  Hwfa,  formerly  the  seat 
of  Sir  Thomas  Jones,  one  of  the  judges  of  assize,  now  the  property  of  his 
descendants.  Further  to  the  s.w.,  on  the  confines  of  the  parish,  is 
Pentre  Heilyn,  once  the  seat  of  a  family  of  that  name.  Goronw  ab 
Heilyn  was  chosen  by  the  last  Llywelyn  to  treat  with  the  commissioners 
of  Edward  Longshanks  for  a  final  peace,  which  was  observed  for  a  while 


LLAN-Y-MYNACH. 


3.98 

only  by  the  English.  Then  Snowdon  reverberated  with  death  or  free¬ 
dom.’"  Llywelyn,  however,  fell  by  the  base  hand  of  an  assassin,  and  with 
him  the  independence  of  the  Britons  expired.  Dr.  Peter  Heylin,  who  died 
in  1662,  was  of  this  family.  Under  the  w.  brow  of  this  hill  \\q^  Ahertanat, 
formerly  the  seat  of  the  Tanats.  It  was  bequeathed  by  a  Godolphin  to 
Lord  Osborne.  A  little  further  towards  the  n.  stands  Blodfoel,  formerly 
the  residence  of  Gwerful  Hael,  now  the  property  of  Lord  Bradford. 
About  2  m.  N.  w.  of  Llan-y-Mynach  on  the  bank  of  the  Vyrnwy,  once  stood 
Careg  Hwfa  Castle,  of  which  no  vestige  now  remains  except  a  foss  on 
the  E.  side.  History  throws  little  light  on  this  place  of  refuge,  save  that 
in  the  year  ll62  it  was  besieged  by  the  two  cousins,  Owain  Cyveiliog  and 
Owain  ap  Madog,  in  whose  possession  it  continued  25  years,  at  the  ter¬ 
mination  of  which  period  it  was  besieged  by  Gwenwynwyn  and  Cadwallon, 
when  Owain  ap  Madog  was  slain.  Within  i  m.  of  this  castle  lies  Gwe7m-y- 
fign,  where  a  battle  was  fought  about  the  year  1202.  (^Cam,  Reg.  i,  265.) 

lYhen  at  Llan-y-Mynach,  Mr.  Pennant  rode  to  the  N'ew  B^'idge,  com¬ 
posed  of  seven  arches  over  the  Vyrnwy,  about  S  m.  above  the  ford.  The 
river  is  confined  by  a  mill-dam  forming  a  fine  reach.  The  overflowings 
produce  a  pretty  cascade,  and  the  views  upwards  of  small  valleys  and 
hanging  woods,  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  Passed  again  by  Llandyssilio. 
Traversed  Rhos  common,  and  advanced  through  the  village  of  Llan- 
di'inio  ;  went  over  the  bridge  of  three  arches.  Crossed  the  Severn  and 
proceeded  along  the  feet  of  those  massive  mountains  Breidden,  Moel-y-goJfa, 
and  Cefn-y -castell.  On  the  former  grows  Cryptogamia  crispa.  On 
Crew  Green,  far  to  the  1.  starts  up  Belin  Mount,  a  round  insulated  rock. 
A  vast  extent  of  flat  country  appears  beneath  part  of  the  great  plain  of 
Shropshire.  At  this  place  the  inclosed  wastes  within  the  manor  of 
Deuddwr  near  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Severn  and  Vyrnwy  bore  un¬ 
common  crops.  A  clause  in  the  act  provided  that  the  frequent  inun¬ 
dations  of  the  Severn  might  be  guarded  against  by  proper  embankments. 
These  were  engaged  in  at  the  expense  of  nearly  26,000/.  The  embank¬ 
ment  commenced  a  little  below  Pool  Quay  and  continued  to  Cymmerau, 
and  thence  for  some  miles  up  the  Vyrnwy  towards  Llan-y-Mynach.  It 
was  not  considered  that  the  celerity  and  force  of  a  flood  are  not  so  much 
in  proportion  to  the  abstract  quantity  of  water  it  contains  as  to  the  di¬ 
mensions  of  that  quantity.  A  certain  body  of  water  in  rapid  motion,  — 
suppose  400  yards  wide  and  3  ft.  deep, —  when  confined  in  its  channel  to 
200  yards,  will  increase  its  momentum  or  force  of  percussion  in  a  quadruple 
ratio,  or  as  the  squares  of  the  respective  depths.  These  principles  being 
overlooked,  the  proud  Sabrina,  swelling  and  foaming  with  indignant  rage, 
has  repeatedly  levelled  the  barrier,  and  with  impunity  traversed  her  old 
domain.  Some  breaches  were  made  in  the  year  179^}  more  on  a 
sudden  thaw  in  Feb.  1795,  when  the  plains  were  deluged  with  torrents 
from  the  hills  which  swept  away  mills,  and  bridges,  as  well  as  embank¬ 
ments.  These  ruptures  were  repaired ;  but  in  the  winters  of  1797,  I8O6, 
and  1808,  Sabrina  repeated  her  assaults  with  the  same  success.” 
{Rev.  W.  Davies.') 

The  village  of  Meverley  lies  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Severn,  near  its 
confluence  with  the  Vyrnwy.  Near  a  small  brook  quit  Montgomeryshire 
and  enter  the  county  of  Salop.  Visit  a  little  to  the  r.  Watteburg  Castle,  an 
old  house,  with  a  square  tower  still  older ;  it  lies  upon  the  Roman  road 
from  Llanrhaiadyr-yn-Mochnant.  A  little  further  is  Loton,  an  ancient  seat 
of  the  family  of  Leighton.  Not  far  from  the  house  are  remains  of  the 
ancient  mansion  or  castle  of  Alhei'buvy  ;  a  tower  and  some  walls  yet  exist. 


LLAN-Y-MYNACH. 


399 

To  the  E.  is  Rowton  Castle,  the  seat  of  H.  Lyster,  Esq.  formerly  possessed 
by  the  Lords  L’Estrange  of  Knockin,  who  raised  here  a  fortress.  Turning 
towards  the  Severn^  upon  a  lofty  bank  above  the  river,  at  Little  Shra- 
wardine,  saw  an  artificial  mount  the  former  site  of  a  castelet.  Upon  the 
opposite  bank  is  the  village  of  Great  Sli7'awardine,  Rev.  W.  Clive,  rector. 
Only  three  or  four  fragments  of  the  castle  remain.  The  river  from  this 
neighbourhood  becomes  now  very  beautiful.  The  banks  are  elevated,  and 
in  many  places  clothed  with  pendant  woods.  Pass  through  the  village  of 
Ford.  Leave  on  the  r.  Dintliill,  J.  Bather,  Esq.,  and  Onslow,  J.  Wing¬ 
field,  Esq.  Upon  the  n.  side  of  the  river,  upon  a  delightful  bank,  are  the 
village  and  church  of  Montford.  A  little  further  is  Montford  Bridge. 
Shrewsbury  is  4  m.  in  a  direct  line  from  this  place ;  but  many  prefer  the 
course  of  the  river,  tempted  by  the  attractive  scenery.  Cross  Montford 
bridge,  turn  to  the  r.  over  the  Perry,  not  far  above  its  junction  with  the 
Severn.  The  hamlet  of  Mitton,  i.  e.  Middle  Town,”  lies  in  a  narrow 
neck  of  land  between  the  two  rivers.  The  Severn  here  makes  a  great 
bend,  and  forms  on  the  opposite  side  a  peninsula  with  so  very  narrow  an 
isthmus,  as  to  occasion  it  to  be  called  the  Isle  of  Up  Rossal,  Rev.  H. 
Sandford.  It  is  environed  by  the  river  for  the  space  of  5  m.  except  at  the 
entrance,  which  forms  a  neck  of  only  380  yards  in  breadth.  Fittes,  the 
parish  church  of  Mitton,  is  situated  at  a  short  distance,  upon  an  eminence. 
A  large  exploratory  mount  is  contiguous.  A  field  at  a  little  distance 
from  the  churchyard  affords  a  most  beautiful  prospect  of  the  Severn, 
which  lies  far  beneath  ;  and,  when  added  to  the  surrounding  scenery,  it  forms 
one  of  the  finest  views  this  country  presents.  Pass  on  the  1.  Upper  Berwick, 
Sir  H.  Hill,  and  Lower  Berwick,  the  Hon.  Wentworth  Powys,  both  com¬ 
manding  most  delightful  prospects  of  the  river  and  town  of  Shrewsbury, 
which  is  approached  hence  through  Frank  well  over  the  Welsh  bridge.  (See 
a  very  unassuming  but  well  written  Guide  to  Shrewsbury,”  published 
by  Davies,  15.  High  Street.)  Also  some  very  clever  lithographic  sketches 
by  Mr.  Blunt,  published  by  Edowes,  Corn-market. 

Advancing  to  Osw'estry,  at  the  4th  m.  on  the  r.  is  a  ridiculously 
splendid  brick  building,  intended,  not  for  a  purpose  which  its  exterior 
seems  to  suggest,  but  for  the  abode  of  the  indigent  and  wretched.  It  is  a 
strange  perversion  when  elegance  becomes  the  concealment  of  poverty  and 
distress.  Convenience,  humility,  and  obscurity  should  rather  distinguish 
the  dwelling  of  the  unfortunate,  whether  their  circumstances  be  derived 
from  their  own  imprudence  or  from  that  of  others.  Proceeding  to 
Shrewsbury,  the  Breiddin  Hills  appear  for  a  few  miles  on  the  r.  Distant 
4  m.  is  the  village  of  Knockin.  The  Hall  was  once  the  residence  of  the 
family  oi  F Estrange.  Four  miles,  occurs  Ness  Cliff,  which  derives  its 
name  from  an  adjoining  eminence.  Montford  Bridge,  4  rn.  Shrewsbury, 
4  m.  About  half-way  is  a  rock  of  red  sandstone  called  also  Ness  Cliff. 
In  the  s.  E.  side  of  this  elevation  is  Kynaston  s  Cave,  once  the  retreat  of 
Humphrey,  a  renegade  son  of  Sir  Roger  Kynaston,  of  Harlech  Castle. 

On  the  road  to  Welshpool,  cross  the  Vyrnwy  by  a  ferry,  or  more  cir¬ 
cuitously,  by  the  New  bridge  before  mentioned.  Pass  through  Llandyssilio, 
a  small  village,  1  m.,  and  at  intervals  traverse  the  Montgomery  Canal.'’  ^  ra. 
further  pass  the' and  ^  m.  further,  Rhusnant.  Trederwen  Hall,  on 
the  r.  l^m.  and  Gwernville  Common.  New  Quay,  on  the  Severn,  l^m. 
Much  business  is  transacted  here.  Hence  is  a  fine  view  of  Moel-y-golfa, 
the  highest  summit  of  the  Breiddin  Mountains,  on  which  is  placed  a  pillar 
erected  to  the  memory  of  Lord  Rodney.  Approaching  Welshpool,  the 
country  becomes  more  rich  and  beautiful.  On  rising  ground,  to  the  1. 


400 


LAUGHARNE. 


the  magnificent  structure  of  Powis  Castle  realizes  a  princely  pile  venera¬ 
ble  for  its  antiquity,  and  of  great  extent,  the  seat  of  Edward  Herbert, 
Earl  of  Powis.  j^See  Castell  Coon.]  Welshpool,  4  m. 


I'D  Oswestry,  6  miles.  Bingley. 

Shrewsbury,  17  miles,  Pennant;  Bingley. 
Llanrhaiadyr  yn  Mochnant,  11  miles.  Aikin. 


To  Welshpool  9  miles.  Warner. 
Llanfyllin,  9  miles. 


LAUGHARNE. 


From  Llanstephan  Castle,  3|  miles.  Wyndham  ;  [  From  Tenby,  15  miles.  Malkin. 

Skrine ;  Barber.  |  Carmarthen,  Hi  miles.  Donovan ;  Evans. 

LAUGHARNE,  Talycharn,  or  Talachar,  in  the  hundred  of  Derllys, 
Carmarthenshire,  is  one  of  the  most  sequestered  towns  that  can  be  con¬ 
ceived,  much  inhabited  by  such  as  prefer  a  detachment  from  busy  life  and 
an  economic  retirement.  It  is  one  of  the  cleanest  and  best  built  towns  in 
S.  Wales.  As  a  sea-port,  it  possesses  little  importance.  The  Church,  dedicated 
to  St.  Martin,  is  a  spacious  and  venerable  structure  in  good  repair.  The  liv¬ 
ing  is  a  vicarage,  also  a  prebend  ;  patron  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Winchester. 
The  population  of  this  parish,  including  the  township  of  Marsh,  in  the 
year  1831,  was  2020.  The  Market  is  on  Friday.  The  Fairs  are  May  6., 
Sep.  28.,  but  latterly  have  been  unattended.  It  is  governed  by  a  portreeve, 
recorder,  aldermen,  two  attorneys,  constables,  and  an  indefinite  number  of 
burgesses.  Sir  Guido  de  Brian,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  III.,  enriched  the 
corporation  by  the  gift  of  lands.  The  cloak  and  mantle  of  Sir  Guido  are 
preserved  in  the  church.  Mrs.  Foster  left  6/.  per  annum  towards  teaching 
twelve  children.  The  petty  Sessions  are  held  here.  The  parish  contains 
6000  acres.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  Baptists,  Independents,  and 
Calvinistic  and  Wesleyan  Methodists.  Towards  the  s.  end  of  the  town, 
close  on  the  bay  of  Carmarthen,  is  a  fine  ruin  of  a  castle  built  or  rebuilt 
by  Sir  Guido  de  Brian,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  III.  Some  say  it  was  de¬ 
stroyed  by  Llywelyn  ap  Jorwerth,  in  1215.  There  are  some  remains  of 
an  ivy-clad  gateway,  and  other  ruins  in  an  adjacent  garden.  Leland  says, 

it  longed  some  time  to  the  Earl  of  Northumberland.”  It  is  now  the 
property  of  the  family  of  the  Laugharnes.  Another  ruin  is  in  this 
parish  called  Roches  Castle.,  distant  1  m.  Tradition  says  it  was  formerly  a 
monastery.  The  ancient  name  Llacharn  or  Tal  Llacharn,  i.  e.  above  the 
Great  Lake,”  has  probably  been  corrupted  into  the  present  name  of  this 
town,  from  the  siege  of  General  William  Laugharne,  who  took  the  castle 
in  the  year  l644.  Its  more  ancient  British  name  was  Aher  Coran,  from 
its  site  on  the  confluence  of  the  Coran.  This  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
political  Josiah  Tueker,  D.  D.,  Dean  of  Gloucester,  who  died  in  1799? 
aged  87. 

The  Castle  Inn. 

The  sands  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Llaugharne,  Mr.  Donovan  says, 
are  bestrewed  with  uncommon  shells,  particularly  of  the  Solen  genus,  spe¬ 
cies  Siliqua,  Vagina,  Ensis,  Legumen,  and  Pellucidus.  Also  with  many 
rare  specimens  of  the  Tellina  and  other  genera.  About  the  loose  sands 
which  lie  between  a  cluster  of  cottages  and  the  point  of  Llaugharne,  the 
shells  of  Mactra  lutraria  occur  in  great  profusion. 

At  a  few  miles  from  Llaugharne  is  the  village  of  Llanddowror,  on  the 
s.  bank  of  the  Towy.  The  scenery  is  highly  beautiful.  Another  ex¬ 
cursion  may  be  made  from  Laugharne  to  Whitland,  where  are  the  vestiges 
of  an  ancient  abbey.  From  this  place  to  Carmarthen  the  nearest  way 


LAUGHARNE. 


401 


is  by  the  village  of  St.  Clare;  but  Mr.  Malkin  says^  that  the  traveller  in  pursuit 
of  picturesque  objects  should  return  to  visit  LlanstepJian  Castle  and  Kidwelly, 
whence  he  may  either  make  his  way  to  Carmarthen,  or  cross  the  Burry  to 
Cheriton  in  Gower.  At  St.  Clare  there  was  anciently  a  castle.  [See 
also  p.  278.] 

Mr.  Evans  visited  a  remarkable  place  5  m.  distant  from  Laugharne, 
called  ‘"‘’the  Green  Bridge  in  Wales.”  It  consists  of  a  natural  excavation, 
through  which  runs  a  small  rivulet,  and  there  disappears  till  it  mingles  its 
waters  with  the  ocean.  He  afterwards  ascended  the  Towy  to  the  ruins  of 
Abba  Llanda,  or  Abbey  of  White  Land,  founded,  according  to  Speed,  by 
Rhys  ap  Theodore  in  1086,  and  formed  a  place  of  sepulture  for  the  princes 
and  chieftains  of  S.  Wales,  among  whom  was  Cadwaladr,  son  of  Rhys  ap 
Grytfydd,  1187«  Others  think  it  was  built  by  Bernard,  Bishop  of 
St.  David’s,  who  died  about  1148.  This  abbey  was  erected  upon  the  site 
of  a  building  of  greater  antiquity  called  Alba  Domus  or  in  British,  Ty- 
gwyn-ar-Daf,  and  once  the  summer  residence  of  the  great  Cambrian  le¬ 
gislator,  the  Justinian  of  Britain,  Howel  Dda.  Here  he  formed  a  Code  of 
laws  founded  on  long-established  customs  which,  for  their  wisdom, 
mildness,  and  humanity,  have  been  a  subject  of  admiration  to  latter  ages. 
This  was  published  by  Wotton  in  1780,  under  the  title  of  Cyfreithjeu 
Hywel  Dha  acerail ;  seu  Leges  Wallicae  ecclesiasticae  et  civiles,  Hoeli  Boni 
aliorumque  Wallise  Principum.”  Having  lived  to  see  his  system  of  legislation 
generally  received  and  executed,  he  departed  this  life,  a.  d.  948,  after  a 
long  enjoyment  of  the  less  splendid  but  more  solid  honours  which  result 
from  peace  and  an  unwearied  attention  to  the  comforts  of  his  people  and 
the  happiness  of  mankind.  He  became  the  subject  of  universal  esteem 
while  living,  of  veneration  and  regret  when  dead.  Other  authors  say,  that 
near  the  White  House  are  the  ruins  of  Alba  Domus  in  a  detached  situation. 
The  latter  is  said  to  stand  about  5  m.  from  St.  Clare,  on  the  r.  hand  of  the 
road  leading  thence  to  Narberth,  and  the  former  nearer  the  great  turnpike- 
road.  At  Whitland,  Mr.  Donovan  deviated  to  the  r.  down  a  narrow  road 
to  a  forge,  where  he  found  the  scattered  fragments  of  Whitland  Abbey,  im¬ 
mured  within  the  bosom  of  a  sequestered  valley,  sheltered  from  the  n.  and 
E.  winds  by  a  range  of  hanging  wood.  He  searched  for  Ty  Gwyn,  but 
was  unsuccessful.  In  a  spot  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Narberth  road, 
from  the  station  of  the  Abbey  of  Whitland,  is  a  house  which  retains  that 
name,  but  very  inconsiderable.  It  is  more  probable  that  the  palace  of  that 
great  legislator  occupied  the  rising  ground  above  Whitland  Abbey,  where 
it  is  said  a  strong  foundation  and  some  leaden  pipes  have  been  turned  up. 
The  former  spot  might  form  only  an  appendage  to  a  more  important 
building.  The  only  fragment  of  antiquity  which  seems  to  connect  with 
the  Abbey,  is  a  stone  fixed  into  the  wall  of  a  neighbouring  building,  upon 
which  are  sculptured  three  escutcheons.  The  valley,  once  peaceful  and 
secluded,  now  resounds  with  the  noise  of  iron  forges.  A  few  miles  from 
Whitland  is  Cil  Maen  Llyd,  an  eminence  whereon  coins  of  Caesar,  Do- 
mitian,  and  others  of  the  Roman  empire  have  been  discovered :  here  also 
an  oval  camp  with  a  foss  and  vallum,  identifies  one  of  their  stations.  At  a 
short  distance,  on  the  banks  of  the  Cleddy,  is  a  circle  of  rude  stones  20  yards 
in  diameter,  called  MeinLGwyr,  evidently  the  remains  of  a  temple  for 
Druidic  worship.  Hence  a  wild  country  leads  to  Narberth. 

The  road  to  Tenby  lies  upon  a  high  boundary  of  the  sea,  which  is  very 
interesting,  till  the  traveller  attains  the  New  Inn,  situated  on  the  border  of 
Pembrokeshire.  In  this  progress  is  a  succession  of  extensive  views  over 
the  Bristol  Channel.  One  coup  d’aiil,  ‘‘  high  from  the  summit  of  a  craggy 

D  D 


402 


LLWCHWR. 


cliff  hung  o’er  the  deep,”  is  eminently  striking,  magnificently  beautiful! 
The  whole  sweep  of  Carmarthen  bay,  with  its  several  estuaries,  high  cliffs, 
and  swelling  shores,  appears  beneath,  extending  in  one  direction  to  the 
extreme  point  of  Gower,  and  in  another  to  the  isle  of  Caldy  in  Pembroke¬ 
shire.  At  the  latter  ^termination,  the  picturesque  whitened  town  of  Tenby, 
romantically  built  upon  a  projection  of  rock,  seems  to  issue  from  the 
waves.  From  the  grand  amphitheatre  of  this  bay,  the  eye  roams  over  a 
wide  expanse  of  sea,  to  the  shores  of  Somerset  and  Devon,  nearly  50  m. 
distant,  faintly  pencilled  on  the  horizon,  and  terminated  by  the  advancing 
swell  of  Llundy  Island.  Further  w.,  the  sea  widens  into  the  Atlantic 
ocean  ;  numerous  barks  in  the  bay,  often  sailing  in  different  directions, 
form  a  great  addition  to  the  prospect ;  a  large  fleet  of  ships  entering  the 
channel  at  a  remote  distance,  seems  like  dusky  spots  on  the  glistening 
expanse  ;  the  tout  ensemble  forms  one  of  the  most  agreeable  marine  pictures. 
At  New  Inn  is  a  small  collection  of  cottages  on  the  beach,  with  a  large  old 
mansion  lately  modernised,  but  seemingly  of  the  Elizabethan  age.  The 
remainder  of  this  route  extends  through  numerous  collieries. 

On  the  road  to  Nabberth,  the  country  partakes  of  little  variety  till  the 
declivity  of  a  bold  swell  near  Tavernspite  is  approached.  In  wet  weather 
the  road  is  bad,  the  soil  being  of  a  spongy  argillaceous  kind.  A  turnpike- 
road  from  St.  Clare  passes  through  Whitland,  David  Edwards  built  the 
bridge  Pontloyrig  over  the  river  Taw  which  divides  the  counties  of  Car¬ 
marthen  and  Pembroke,  near  Whitland.  Narberth  appears  at  the  close  of 
a  9  ni.  stage. 

To  Tenby,  13 miles.  Barber;  Skrine.  |  To  Narberth,  15  miles.  Donovan;  Evans. 

Llanstephan,  4  miles.  Malkin.  |  Carew,  by  way  of  St.  Clare,  19  m.  Wyndham.  ’ 


LLWCHWR. 

From  Oystermouth,  10  miles.  Barber.  1  From  Swansea,  7  miles.  Evans ;  Barber. 

LLWCHWR,  Lloughor,  or  Castell  Llwchwr,  is  a  borough  and 
parish,  in  the  hundred  of  Swansea,  county  of  Glamorgan  ;  the  Leucarum 
of  Richard  of  Cirencester,  and  the  fifth  Roman  station  on  the  Via  J ulia. 
The  latter  name  seems  to  imply  that  it  was  a  fortification  on  the  river 
Llwchwr,  which  here  discharges  itself  into  the  Bristol  Channel,  dividing 
the  counties  of  Glamorgan  and  Carmarthen.  Tradition  has  handed  down 
to  posterity  the  epithet  of  Tre-Avanc,  Beavers  Town,”  and  hence  the 
place  is  sometimes  called  Trewanc,  by  way  of  derision.  That  this  animal 
once  found  a  habitat  in  the  Principality  appears  from  the  Welsh  laws  ; 
and  Dr.  W.  O.  Pugh  says  that  it  had  been  seen  in  Nant-Francon,  in  the 
memory  of  man.  The  church,  situated  upon  an  eminence,  and  command¬ 
ing  extensive  views,  is  dedicated  to  St.  Michael  ;  the  living  is  a  rectory,  in 
the  patronage  of  the  Queen.  On  the  marsh  to  the  w.  stood  the  old  church, 
the  site  of  which  is  still  called  Story  Mihangel.  In  1831,  the  population 
of  the  parish  was  945.  This  town  is  a  borough  by  prescription,  and  its 
government  is  vested  in  a  portreeve,  recorder,  twelve  aldermen,  and  an 
unlimited  number  of  burgesses,  &c.  The  parish  contains  about  2880  acres. 
Within  the  borough  is  the  Sanctuary,  supposed  to  have  formed  part  of  the 
manor  of  Millwood,  near  Swansea ;  it  formerly  belonged  to  the  Knights 
Templars  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem.  The  ruins  of  a  quadrangular  castle  are 
situated  upon  a  rampart,  with  the  remains  of  two  ditches  which  formerly 


MACHYNLLETH. 


403 


surrounded  it.  Its  erection  is  attributed  to  Henry  Beaumont^  Earl  of 
Warwick,  who,  in  1099j>  entered  the  country  of  Gower,  and  put  himself 
in  possession  of  considerable  territories.  Mr.  Rees  Jones,  of  this  place, 
conjectures  that  the  mount  was  thrown  up  by  the  Romans,  who  had  a 
garrison  here,  and  that  the  castle  was  built  by  the  first  lords  Marchers,  to 
whom  this  district  was  granted.  It  was  destroyed  by  two  sons  of  Gryffydd 
ab  Rhys,  in  1115.  In  the  reign  of  Henry  II.,  it  was  granted  to  Hugh  de 
Spencer,  who  repaired,  or  rebuilt,  the  last  erection.  Roman  relics  have 
been  found  here,  among  which  was  a  coin  of  the  emperor  Trajan,  found 
in  the  bed  of  the  river  ;  and  upon  a  common,  3  m.  e.  of  the  town,  are  two 
square  encampments,  called  Mynydd  Cam  Goch.  An  engagement  took 
place  near  a  spot,  which  is  still  called  Cddley,  the  Field  of  Battle.’* 
An  extensive  colliery  is  carried  on  here  ;  the  coal  is  of  excellent  quality. 
The  strata  abound  in  fossiliferous  remains,  from  70  to  80  ft.  below  the 
surface.  The  Adair  collieries  are  discontinued.  That  of  Broad  Oak  pro¬ 
duces  from  50  to  100  tons  per  diem.  Manufactures  of  zinc  and  pyrolig¬ 
neous  acid  are  conducted  on  a  very  limited  scale.  Copper  works  have  been 
erected  at  Spitty,  on  the  Carmarthenshire  side  of  the  river,  opposite  to 
Llwchwr,  which,  from  the  ferry  to  the  mouth,  12  m.,  is  called  the 
Burry.  Two  hours  before  low  water,  and  the  same  time  before  high 
water,  the  river  is  fordable.  A  ferry-boat  is,  however,  kept  here,  at  the 
expense  of  Lord  Cawdor,  for  the  convenience  of  travellers.  At  the  entrance 
of  the  court-yard  of  the  parsonage-house,  lies  a  large  and  curiously  wrought 
fragment,  supposed  by  some  to  be  a  Roman  miliary  stone.  The  celebrated 
violinist,  Hugh,  was  a  native  of  this  place. 

The  road  to  Llanelly  lies  through  a  region  of  collieries,  and  is  very 
indifferent.  About  half  way  between  the  ford  and  this  town  stands 
Capel  Ddewij  a  small  ruin,  picturesquely  accompanied  by  a  yew-tree,  and 
near  it  the  remains  of  some  deserted  furnaces. 

To  Llanelly,  4|  miles.  Barber  ;  Evans.  1  To  Swansea,  7  miles,  , 


MACHYNLLETH. 


From  Dolgelly,  16  miles.  Bingley. 

Mallwyd,  12  miles.  Aikin. 
Pont-y-Mynach,  20 miles.  Warner. 
Aberystwith,  25  m.  Warner’s  2d  walk. 


From  Aberystwith,  18^  miles.  Wyndham, 

Llanbadarn-Vawr,  16  miles ;  then  to  and 
from  Towyn,  24  miles.  Skrine. 
Newtown,  28  miles. 


MACHYNLLETH  (pronounced  Ma-kunk’-leth),  signifying,  the 
Place  near  the  River  Cynllaeth,”  which  latter  term  was  the  ancient  name 
of  Dyfi,  is  a  market  town  and  borough,  beautifully  situated  upon  the  w. 
edge  of  Montgomeryshire,  at  the  conflux  of  the  Dulas  with  the  Dyfi. 
This  ancient  well-built  town  is  superior  to  most  in  N.  Wales,  in  cleanli¬ 
ness  and  respectability.  The  streets  are  remarkably  spacious  and  regular. 
It  lies  romantically  embosomed  in  mountains,  in  the  hundred  of  the  same 
name,  and  is  supposed  to  be  the  Maglona  of  the  Roman  Itineraries,  where, 
in  the  reign  of  Honorius,  a  lieutenant  was  stationed  to  awe  the  moun¬ 
taineers.  The  population  of  this  parish,  consisting  of  the  townships  of  Is- 
y-Careg,  Uwch-y-Careg,  and  Y-Dre,  or  the  town,”  in  1831  amounted 
to  2381.  It  forms  the  centre  of  the  woollen  trade  in  this  part 
of  the  country.  The  manufacture  of  coarser  flannels  is  carried  on  here 
to  a  considerable  extent,  employing  forty  carding  engines,  and  seven  fulling- 

D  D  2 


404 


MACHYNJ.LETH. 


mills.  Lead  mines  have  been  opened  at  Is-y-Careg,  but  at  present  are  not 
worked.  Good  slate  is  also  procured  here^  but  not  to  any  great  extent. 
The  market  is  on  Wednesday.  The  fairs  are  held  annually  on  the  first 
Wednesday  in  March;,  May  l6._,  June  26. ^  July  9-j  August  7*^  September 
18.,  October  10.,  and  November  26. 

Near  Penallt,  about  2  m.  distant,  is  Cefncaer,  the  Ridge  of  the  City,” 
where  roman  coins  have  frequently  been  found,  and  formerly  the  remains 
of  a  circular  fortification  of  considerable  extent  were  visible.  Upon  the 
highest  part  of  the  hill  was  the  main  fort,  built  in  a  quadrangular  form, 
and  encompassed  with  a  strong  wall,  a  foss,  and  vallum  of  an  oval  form, 
excepting  the  side  towards  the  valley,  where  they  extended  in  a  direct  line. 
On  the  outside  of  the  river,  the  foundations  of  many  houses  yet  remain, 
and  upon  a  low  mount  there  stood  a  small  fort,  supposed  to  have  been 
constructed  of  bricks,  several  having  been  found  on  the  spot.  The  out- 
waUs  were,  however,  built  of  a  rough,  hard  stone,  from  Tal-y-Careg, 
distant  7  m.  From  this  site  of  the  fort  is  a  broad  road  of  pebbles,  and 
larger  stones,  continued  in  straight  lines  through  meadows  and  marshy 
grounds,  for  200  yards,  to  the  river;  the  breadth  is  12  yards.  This  fort 
is  supposed  to  have  been  destroyed  previously  to  the  erection  of  Penallt, 
or  Pennal  Church,  as  bricks  are  mixed  with  the  materials  which  form  that 
structure.  Some  silver  coins  of  Augustus  and  Tiberius  have  been  found 
near  the  main  fort. 

In  the  town  is  an  ancient  structure,  formed  of  the  thin  slaty  stone  of  the 
country,  to  which  Owain  Glyndwr  is  said  to  have  summoned  the  nobility 
and  gentry  of  Wales  in  1402.  Among  the  number  thus  convened.  Sir 
David  Gam  attended,  with  the  design  of  murdering  Glyndwr,  but  the  plot 
was  discovered,  and  Sir  David  seized.  He  would  have  suffered  instanta¬ 
neous  death,  had  not  some  powerful  friends  interfered,  through  whose  inter¬ 
cession  his  sentence  was  mitigated  to  confinement  at  Machynlleth,  where 
he  continued  some  time.  At  length  Owain  liberated  him  on  condition  that 
he  would  remain  quiet.  Sir  David,  however,  was  scarcely  set  at  liberty 
ere  he  began  to  manifest  a  turbulent  disposition,  which  so  much  exasperated 
Glyndwr,  that  he  burnt  his  house,  and  ravaged  his  lands.  Shakspeare 
has  described  Gam  in  the  character  of  Captain  Fluelin.  In  the  august 
assembly,  called  Owain’s  Parliament,  Glyndwr  exerted  his  first  acts  of 
royalty,  being  acknowledged  as  the  Prince  of  Wales,  proclaimed,  and 
crowned;  every  thing,  in  short,  wore  the  aspect  of  a  sincere  and  unanimous 
acknowledgment  of  his  pretensions.  One  portion  of  this  ancient  senate  house 
is  now  degraded  to  the  purposes  of  a  stable,  and  an  other  forms  a  butcher’s 
shop.  A  spacious  doorway,  however,  evinces  that  its  occupation  has  been 
more  honourable.  The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  and,  with  the 
exception  of  the  tower,  was  rebuilt  in  1827,  in  the  later  style  of  English 
architecture.  The  living  is  a  rectory  and  vicarage,  united  ;  the  Bishop  of 
St.  Asaph,  patron.  Jeuan  Llawdden,  an  eminent  poet,  of  the  vale  of 
Llwchwr,  Carmarthenshire,  who  flourished  about  the  year  1480,  spent  the 
greater  portion  of  his  life  as  minister  of  this  church,  but  in  old  age  retired 
to,  and  died  at,  the  place  of  his  nativity.  The  Town  Hall  is  a  plain  un¬ 
adorned,  substantial  structure,  erected  in  1783,  by  the  father  of  Sir  W. 
W.  Wynn,  who  is  lord  of  the  manor,  and  holds  courts  leet  twice  in  the 
year.  The  petty  sessions  for  the  hundred  are  held  here  occasionally.  The 
schools  are  on  the  national  principle.  A  book  society  and  news-room  are 
well  supported.  Flere  are  places  of  worship  for  Independents  and  Cal- 
vinistic  and  Wesleyan  Methodists. 

Llywarcli  Hen,  the  princely  bard,  having  lost,  in  the  issue  of  the  wars 


MACHYNLLETH. 


405 


with  the  Saxons,  all  his  friends,  retired  to  a  hut  at  Aher-Ciog,  now  called 
Dol-Giog,  near  this  town,  where  his  harp  discoursed  mournfully  his  woes. 
He  died  about  the  year  634,  aged  nearly  105,  and  was  buried  at  Llan- 
Fawr,  near  Bala. 

The  Unicorn,  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  has  been  found  comfortable,  and 
the  charges  reasonable.  The  Herbert  Arms  is  accounted  the  principal  Inn. 
The  newline  of  road  to  Towyn  is  beautifully  picturesque;  particularly  be¬ 
tween  Penallt  and  Aberdovey,  which  is  cut  out  of  solid  rock,  and  opened  in 
1827.  It  passes  along  the  n.  bank  of  the  Hyfi,  and  presents  most  attractive 
views  of  the  opposite  coast,  the  sea  being  in  the  distance. 

To  Llanidloes,  cross  the  race-course.  Further  above  the  forge  is  an 
ivy-coated  bridge,  and  close  to  it  a  cavern,  called  Hester  Matthew’s  parlour, 
which,  superstition  says,  the  disembodied  spirit  of  the  old  woman  frequently 
visits. 

The  road  towards  Llanidloes  winds  for  several  miles  over  dreary  moors. 
About  5  m.  from  Machynlleth  is  a  lofty  hill,  called  Darran-Rhos-^y-Careg, 
Its  sides  are  precipitous,  resembling  Cader  Idris.  Plinlimmon  is  visible 
at  the  distance  of  4  m.  or  5  m.  on  the  r.  The  Viola  lutea  grows  on  the 
road-side  for  several  miles.  In  the  flat  betwixt  that  elevation  and  the  road 
is  Glas  Llyn,  “  the  Blue  Lake,”  and  on  the  1.  are  Esgairgaled  lead  mines. 

About  half  way  to  Llanidloes,  14  ni.  to  the  r.,  is  the  cataract  Frwd~Fawr. 
The  rock  whence  the  water  falls  is  nearly  perpendicular.  In  height  it  is 
exceeded  by  few  cataracts,  except  Pistyll-Rhaiadyr.  The  few  shrubs  hang¬ 
ing  from  the  crags  add  to  its  beauty.  On  this  route,  there  are  some 
lead  mines  on  the  r.  and  L,  in  sight  of  the  road,  which  are  said  to  abound 
with  silver.  Plinlimmon  again  appears  on  the  r.  About  4  m.  from  Llan¬ 
idloes,  the  appearance  of  the  country  begins  to  change,  and  the  woody  vales 
in  front,  with  the  little  Llyn-yr-Avanc,  Beaver’s  Pool,”  at  a  distance 
among  them,  forms  a  pleasing  scene.  The  descent,  within  -1  m.  of  Llan¬ 
idloes,  is  prepossessing  and  interesting.  Cross  the  Severn  over  a  wooden 
bridge. 

On  the  road  to  Aberystwith,  keeping  along  the  banks  of  the  Dyfi, 
(which  forms  the  s.  boundary  of  Merionethshire  to  its  mouth)  a  pass 
through  the  chain  of  the  Plinlimmon  hills  is  entered,  being  the  only  n.  e. 
opening  into  the  county  of  Cardigan.  A  little  further,  ascending  a  hill  on 
the  r.  of  the  road,  the  tourist  is  presented  with  a  view  the  richest,  most 
varied,  and  striking,  perhaps,  that  can  be  imagined.  On  the  n.  side  appears 
the  lofty  mountainous  part  of  Merioneth,  running  out  into  the  sea  for  some 
miles,  bare  upon  the  summit,  and  its  highest  peaks  generally  enveloped  in 
light  wreaths  of  mists,  but  cultivated  towards  the  middle,  and  below  dark 
with  woods,  which  half  conceal  four  elegant  villas.  To  the  s.  are  beheld 
the  gentle  eminences  and  rich  culture  of  Cardiganshire.  In  front  is 
stretched  the  calm  lake-like  expanse  of  the  Dyfi,  contracted  towards  the 
sea  by  a  rocky  promontory,  covered  with  wood,  advancing  from  Cardigan¬ 
shire,  and  forming  in  its  curve  a  beautiful  bay.  Immediately  below  the 
hill,  a  little  on  the  1.  is  the  trading  village  of  Careg-y-stumlaeth,  with 
sloops  at  its  wharf.  Under  the  Merionethshire  mountains,  at  the  distance 
of  4  m.  or  5  m.,  is  the  port  of  Aberdovey,  and  further,  in  the  same  direc¬ 
tion,  the  broad  expanse  of  the  ocean.  The  village  of  Careg  next  occurs, 
formerly  noted  for  its  smelting  works,  which  are  now  disused ;  it,  hov^  ■ 
ever,  partakes  with  Aberdovey  in  the  export  trade  of  flannels,  Welsh-webs, 
bark,  and  other  productions  of  the  vale  of  Dyfi.  The  tourist,  quitting  tne 
river,  and  proceeding  s.,  catches  here  and  there  fine  views  of  the  sea.  At 
Tal-y-bont  the  views  are  enlivened  by  cascades  gushing  from  the  rocks. 


406 


MACHYNLLETH. 


and  overhung  with  oak^  beech^  hirch^  and  the  mountain  ash.  Beyond 
this  place_,  the  woods  give  way  to  pastures,  corn-fields,  and  sheep-walks ; 
and  at  length,  descending  into  the  Vale  of  Rheidol,  presently  is  attained 
the  fashionable  and  attractive  seaport,  borough,  and  market-town  of 
Aberystwith. 

The  distances  on  this  road  are  as  follow  :  —  Derwenlds,  2  m.  Cross  the 
Lyffnant  river  to  Careg,  m.  Eglwys-fach,  1^-  m.  Pass  Furnace 
Cae-mawr,  Melin  Lodge,  and  Park-gate,  to  Tre  r-ddol,  3  m.  Pass  Tre- 
Taliesin,  Troed-rhiw-fedwen,  and  Nant-y-lleran,  to  Tal-g-bont,  where 
there  is  an  Inn,  2  m.  Cross  the  Lfery  to  Rhyd-y-pennau,  3  m.  Pass 
Pen-y-garn  to  Bow-stf'eet,  1  m.  On  the  1.  Goyerddan,  Pryse  Pryse,  Esq., 
Pont-rhyd-hh\  Pont-rliyd-Mr^uchav,  across  the  river  Clarach,  by  Dorglwyd) 
Cefn-hendre,  Penglais,  North-gate,  toll-bar,  to  Aberystwith,  3^  m. 

On  the  road  to  Dolgelly,  pass  the  Dyfi,  which  separates  Machynlleth 
from  Merionethshire,  over  an  ancient  stone  bridge  at  Pont-ar-Dyfi,  1  m. 
Dyflas  Bridge,  |  m.  Proceed  along  this  river  on  the  L,  through  a  truly 
alpine  valley.  Mr.  Wyndham  says  of  this  scenery,  The  rapid  torrent, 
roaring  over  a  bed  of  broken  rocks,  and,  not  unfrequently,  interrupted  by 
immense  fragments,  from  which  it  falls  in  large  cataracts  ;  the  w^oody  and 
exalted  precipices  rising  on  each  side  of  the  river  ’  and  the  mountain  brooks, 
which,  down  the  deep  and  water-worn  gulleys,  continually  rattled  about 
us,  formed  a  miniature  picture  of  the  romantic  scenes  which  are  found 
between  Aigles  Belles  and  Mont  Cenis.  Towards  the  extremity  of  the 
valley,  the  huge  mountain  of  Cader  Idris  presented  one  of  its  naked, 
craggy,  and  prominent  cliffs,  full  to  our  front :  few  objects  can  be  more 
awfully  sublime.’^  The -road  passes  under  part  of  this  gloomy  and  tre¬ 
mendous  precipice,  within  sight  of  the  small  lake  Tal-y-Uyn,  at  some 
distance  on  the  1.  LlwyrC gwern,  2^  m.  Cross  the  Glesyrch  river  to 
Esgair  geiliog,  1  m.  Cross  the  Gomcelli  river,  at  Fron  Felin,  1  m.,  pass 
with  the  Corys,  on  the  1.  to  Glan-y-groes,  2  m.,  pass  several  houses  on  both 
sides  of  the  road,  to  Minfordd,  2  m.  where  is  a  public-house  kept  by 
Edward  Jones,  who  officiates  as  a  guide  to  Cader  Idris. 

Pass  close  to  the  brink  of  another  small  lake  called  Llyn-tri-graeanen, 
the  Pool  of  the  Three  Grains,^’  from  three  immense  stones  lying  near  it, 
by  the  road-side,  2  m.  We  now  crossed  an  arm  of  Cader  Idris,  and  fol¬ 
lowing  a  rapid  descent  of  3^  rocky  miles,  arrived  at  Dolgelly,  Part  of  this 
latter  path  leads  through  a  thin  oak  wood ;  overhanging  an  impetuous 
torrent,  which  foams  down  a  rugged  declivity.  Bwlch  Cock,  being  on  the 
1,  and  Caer  Sarn  and  Pen-y-bwlch-Coch  on  the  r.  Mr.  Pratt  describes  this 
road  as  follows: — After  riding  about  2  hours  you  come  to  a  spot  so 
exquisitely  delightful,  that  it  is  impossible  for  any  one  but  the  sordid 
worldling,  not  to  pause,  and  wish  to  pass  the  evening  of  his  days  in  its 
vicinity.  It  is  a  part  of  the  valley  defended  by  an  immense  screen  of 
many  coloured  rocks  behind,  out  of  wffiich  spring  here  and  there  a  few* 
hardy  shrubs  and  flowers  ;  most  stupendous  crags,  that  hurricanes  have 
thrown  from  a  ridge  of  mountains,  the  mutilated  heads  of  which  are  still 
in  the  clouds.  Some  of  these  crags  have  been  stopped  midway,  others  have 
found  a  passage  to  the  bottom,  and  lie  at  the  side  of  the  road.  To  the  1. 
is  a  broad  stream  of  water,  here  foaming  into  natural  cascades,  and 
there  displaying  an  untroubled  and  limpid  basin.  These  waterfalls, and 
transparent  baths  are  so  tinted  by  the  refractions  of  the  light  and  shade, 
and  the  variegated  rocks,  spars,  shells,  &c.,  at  the  bottom,  that  the  w^ater 
and  flooring  exhibit  all  the  colours  of  the  rainbow.  The  foliage  of  the 
woody  mountains  which  rise  above  these  water-works  of  nature,  is  not  less 


MAENTWROG. 


407 


diversified  than  the  stream.  Your  eye  also  takes  in  the  celebrated  Cader 
Idris.”  {^Gleanings.') 

The  road  to  Mallwyd  lies  all  the  way  near  the  course  of  the  Dyfi^  pre¬ 
senting  many  striking  beauties  of  landscape.  The  valley  is  inclosed  by 
lofty  mountains,  some  of  which_,  particularly  the  Aran,  vie  in  respect  to 
height  with  the  most  lofty  in  Wales.  The  road  lies  for  several  miles 
between  hedgerows,  amid  fertile  meadows  intermixed  with  corn-fields. 
Oats  and  rye  are  the  prevailing  crops ;  there  is  little  wheat  or  barley.  In 
approaching  the  6th  m.,  the  scenery  in  every  direction  is  admirable.  The 
side  screens  present  either  verdant  woods  or  downy  hills,  while  the  vista 
below  comprehends  a  great  variety  of  the  most  pleasing  features.  A  little 
further  catch  a  glimpse  of  one  of  the  peaks  of  Cader  Idris,  through  a 
break  between  the  mountains.  Coming  in  sight  of  Mallwyd,  the  vale 
contracts  so  as  to  leave  the  direction  of  the  road  uncertain.  On  the  way 
is  Cemmaes,  an  amphitheatre,”  m.  Further  to  the  r.,  is  Aherhiriarth 
Hall,  unoccupied,  formerly  the  residence  of  Sir  J.  Dashwood  King,  Bart. 

On  the  way  to  Towyn,  towards  the  estuary  of  the  Dyfi,  the  road  lies 
behind  a  range  of  rocks  which  borders  the  bay,  affording  little  worth  notice. 
At  the  distance  of  5  m.  a  flat  salt-marsh  appears,  to  which  succeeds  a  sandy 
plain  of  considerable  extent,  where  grow  plentifully  Convolvulus  soldanella, 
and  Elymus  arenaria.  A  ferry  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  lands  the  traveller 
near  Aberdovey  in  Merionethshire.  The  prospect  up  the  vale,  though 
possessing  very  little  beauty  when  compared  with  the  view  from  the  head 
of  the  estuary,  is  nevertheless  peculiarly  striking.  The  scream  of  the  sea¬ 
gulls  along  this  naked  shore,  harmonises  well  with  the  gloomy  grandeur  of 
the  scene.  On  the  sand  are  several  hillocks  extending  n.,  formed  by  the 
Arundo  arenaria  which  fixes,  by  its  long  roots,  the  driving  sand.  That 
rare  plant  the  Pulmonaria  maritima,  here  and  there  adorns  the  beach.  An 
easy  bend  of  the  coast  introduces  a  considerable  tract  of  peat  moss,  which 
extends  into  the  sea.  Just  above  the  high  water-mark  are  several  marsh 
pools,  abounding  with  the  Nympha  alba.  On  the  great  road,  cross  the 
Dyfi,  which  runs  on  the  1.  to  the  sea.  Penallt  or  Pennal,  3  m.  (About  m. 
beyond  on  the  1.  is  Talgarth,  Captain  Thurston,  and  near  Towyn,  6^  m. 
from  Penallt,  on  the  r.  is  Botalog,  Edward  Scott,  Esq. 

Fishing  Stations.  —  Cemmaes,  m.;  Blaen  Glysiarch,  6  m.;  Davowen, 
6  m  ;  Llandrinio,  6^m. ;  beautiful  angling.  Tavolog,  9  ni. 


To  Llanidloes,  19  miles.  Bingley  ;  Pugh. 
Aberystwith,  18|  miles.  Aikin. 

Cader  Idris,  about  13  miles.  Warner. 
Mallwyd,  13  miles.  Warner’s  2d  walk. 
Dolgelly,  16  miles.  Wyndham. 
Dolgelly,  round  Tallyllyn,  18  miles. 


To  Towyn,  14  miles  ;  back  to  Machynlleth,  12 
miles-,  thence  to  Dinas  Mowddy,  13  miles. 
Skrine, 

Plinlimmon,  about  5  miles. 

Montgomery,  39  miles. 


MAENTWROG. 


From  Tan-y-Bwlch,  \  mile.  Wyndham  ;  Evans; 
Bingley  ;  Skrine. 

Llanilltydd,  11  miles.  Aikin;  Skrine. 
Dolgelly,  17  miles.  Warner. 


From  Harlech,  10  miles.  Pennant 
Llanrwst,  21^  miles. 
Beddgelart,  10  miles.  Pugh. 


MAENTWROG  is  a  small  village  in  the  hundred  of  Ardudwy, 
Merionethshire,  which  derives  its  name  from  a  large  stone  in  the  church¬ 
yard,  called  Maen-Twrog,  the  stone  of  Twrog  ab  Ithel  Hael,  a  British 
saint,  who  lived  about  the  year  6l0.  In  1831  the  population  of  the 
parish  of  Maentwrog  was  745.  The  Roman  road  from  Uriconium  to 
Segontium  passed  tlirough  this  vicinity;  and  another  from  Tommen-y-^MUr, 

D  »  4 


408 


MAENTWROG. 


•where  England’s  monarchs  oft  encamped,  also  advanced  to  Caer  Gai. 
Mr.  Owen  says  that  the  Rev.  Edmund  Prys,  one  of  the  most  eminent  of 
the  poets  of  his  time,  was  rector  of  this  parish,  and  archdeacon  of 
Merioneth,  He  translated  the  metrical  psalms  used  in  the  Welsh  churches, 
one  of  which  he  is  said  to  have  versified  every  time  he  officiated,  that  the 
whole  might  be  sung  previously  to  publication,  and  assisted  Bishop  Morgan 
in  translating  the  Bible.  Born  about  1544,  at  Gerddi  Bluog,  in  the  parish 
of  Llan  Tegwyn,  he  resided  at  Tyddyn-du,  died  some  time  after  1623, 
and  was  buried  here.  At  this  place  is  a  comfortable  Inn,  where  neat  cars 
may  be  had.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  this  little  vale.  The  hills 
are  moderately  high,  and  scattered  in  a  pleasing  style  ;  the  sides  are  mostly 
well  wooded,  especially  to  the  n.  In  one  of  these  groves  stands  Tan-y- 
Bwlch  Fids,  the  seat  of  W.  Grufydd  Oakley,  Esq.,  whose  father  availed 
himself  of  the  munificence  of  nature,  here  exhibiting  her  choicest 
beauties  in  walks  and  vistas  of  considerable  extent.  [See  Tan-y-Bwlch.]] 
Thomas,  the  landlord  of  the  inn  here,  very  obligingly  became  Mr.  Pugh’s 
guide  through  the  extensive  grounds  of  Tan-y-Bwlch  Hall.  The  latter 
says,  I  do  not  remember  a  walk  in  which  I  was  more  interested ;  the 
waterfalls,  though  not  great,  are  pretty  bits.  Often  did  we  pass  over  pre¬ 
cipices,  and  gained  the  fine  summit  of  this  wooded  height,”  which  com¬ 
mands  a  view  of  the  meandering  Dwyryd  widening  into  the  Traeth  By  chan, 
or  Little-Tide,”  which  lies  opposite  to  the  Traeth  Mawr  on  the  s., 
exhibiting  the  ocean,  which,  with  the  peninsula,  forms  a  pleasing  termina¬ 
tion  to  the  view.  Mr.  Oakley  engaged  with  success  in  reclaiming  a  tract 
of  land  from  the  overflowings  of  the  tide.  His  embankments  are  marked 
by  white  rails.  The  Traeth  abounds  with  Nympha  alba,  and  in  the  tide 
ditches  occurs  the  Ruppia  maritima.  Upon  the  bosom  of  the  wave  appears 
the  Conferva  vagabunda.  Pursue  the  stream,  which  divides  this  vale ; 
its  length  is  about  4  m.  Its  sides  are  edged  with  thick  groves,  and  barren 
precipices  close  the  enchanting  scene.  The  little  river  is  named  Dwyryd, 
the  Two  Fords,”  from  the  confluence  of  the  Cynfael  and  another  stream 
above. 

The  village  of  Maentwrog  is  seated  nearly  in  the  middle  of  it.  Lord 
Lyttelton,  who  made  a  tour  through  Wales  in  1756,  gives  the  following 
lively  description  of  Festiniog  and  the  contiguous  vale.  From  the 
height  of  this  village  you  have  a  view  of  the  sea.  The  hiUs  are  green  and 
well  shaded  with  wood.  There  is  a  lovely  rivulet  which  winds  through 
the  bottom  ;  on  each  side  are  meadows,  and  above  are  corn-fields  along 
the  sides  of  the  hills.  At  each  end  are  high  mountains  which  seem 
placed  there  to  guard  this  charming  retreat  against  any  invasions.  With 
the  woman  one  loves,  with  the  friend  of  one’s  heart,  and  a  good  library  of 
books,  one  might  pass  an  age  there,  and  think  it  a  day.  When  we  had 
skirted  this  happy  vale,”  we  came  to  a  narrow  branch  of  the  sea,  which 
is  dry  at  low  water. 

The  view  of  these  sands  is  terrific,  being  hemmed  in  on  each  side  with 
very  high  hills,  but  broken  into  a  thousand  irregular  shapes.  At  one  extremity 
is  the  ocean  ;  at  the  other,  the  formidable  mountains  of  Snowdon,  black 
and  naked  rocks  piled  one  above  the  other  ;  the  summits  of  some  covered 
with  clouds  are  inaccessible.  The  grandeur  of  the  ocean,  corre¬ 
sponding  with  that  of  the  mountain,  form  a  majestic  and  solemn  scene  ; 
ideas  of  immensity  exalted  our  minds  at  the  sight:  all  lesser  objects  ap¬ 
peared  mean  and  trifling,  so  that  we  could  scarcely  do  justice  to  the  ruins 
of  an  old  castle,  situated  upon  the  tv^p  of  a  conic  hill,  the  foot  of  which  is 
w'ashed  bv  the  sea.  and  which  has  every  feature  that  can  give  a  romantic 


MAENTWROG. 


409 


appearance.  The  morning  being  fair,  we  ventured  to  climb  up  to  the  top  of 
a  mountain,  not,  indeed,  so  high  as  Snowdon,  which  is  here  called  Moel 
Gwdion,  but  one  degree  lower  than  that  called  Moel-liehog ,  the  Hill  of 
the  Hawk,”  from  whence  we  saw  a  phenomenon,  new  to  our  eyes,  but 
common  in  Wales  ;  on  the  one  side  was  midnight,  on  the  other  bright  day: 
the  whole  extent  of  Snowdon  on  our  left,  was  wrapt  in  clouds  from  top  to 
bottom  :  on  the  right  the  sun  shone  most  gloriously  over  the  sea-coast  of  Caer¬ 
narvon.  The  hill  on  which  we  stood  was  perfectly  clear,  the  way  we 
came  up  was  a  tolerably  easy  ascent ;  but  before  us  was  a  precipice  of 
many  hundred  yards,  and  below,  a  vale,  which,  though  not  cultivated,  has 
much  savage  beauty  ;  the  sides  were  steep,  and  fringed  with  low  wood. 
There  were  two  little  lakes,  or  rather  large  pools,  which  stood  in  the 
bottom,  whence  issued  a  rivulet  which  serpentined  in  view  for  2  or  3  m., 
and  was  a  pleasing  relief  to  the  eyes.” 

During  the  government  of  Wales  by  a  variety  of  princes,  war,  desola¬ 
tion,  and  bloodshed  was  the  consequence.  Howel,  king  of  N.  Wales,  was 
a  tyrant.  He  had  two  uncles,  lago,  who  married  Helen,  whom,  on  a  trifling 
pretence,  he  cast  into  prison  ;  and  Edwal  Fychan,  whom  he  murdered. 
Constantine  the  Black,  or  Cawellyn  Du,  the  son  of  lago,  incensed  at  this 
treatment  of  his  father  and  uncle,  raised  an  army  in  979^  composed  of 
Welsh  and  Danes,  invaded  his  cousin’s  dominions,  and  ravaged  Anglesea. 
Returning  through  Caernarvon,  towards  Festiniog,  his  mother  Helen  led 
the  van,  and  he  closed  the  rear.  At  the  distance  of  8  m.,  he  had  to  pass 
a  defile,  bounded  by  two  mountains,  Mynydd-fawr  on  the  r.,  upon  which 
stood  Castle  Cedwm,  and  Moel  Elyan  on  the  1.,  which  narrow  passage 
Mr.  Pennant  justly  calls  one  of  the  out- guards  to  the  entrance  to  Snow¬ 
donia.  These  are  so  near  each  other  as  to  leave  but  a  narrow  road  for  the 
traveller,  and  a  bare  passage  for  the  river,  which  runs  from  the  lake 
Quethlin,  at  the  base.  As  Constantine  was  passing  this  defile,  his  cousin 
Howel,  unperceived,  let  fly  an  arrow  from  the  top  of  Castle  Cedwm. 

Are  you  wounded  ”  inquired  a  distant  voice.  The  response  was,  “Yes.” 
“  Then  you  are  a  dead  man,  for  the  arrow  was  poisoned.”  The  news  of 
his  death  soon  reached  his  mother  Helen,  in  the  van,  10  m.  distant,  on 
hearing  which  she  exclaimed,  in  the  bitterness  of  her  grief,  “  This  is  a  cross 
hour.”  The  side-gate  at  which  she  stood  still  retains  the  name  of  Cross 
Hour. 

Coins,  urns,  and  inscribed  stones  of  Roman  origin  are  in  the  possession 
of  Mr.  Oakley  of  Plds-tan-y-Bwlch,  and  Mr.  Lloyd  of  Pen-y-Gldnau.  A 
Sunday  School  was  being  erected  at  the  sole  expense  of  Mrs.  Oakley,  by 
whose  beneficence  it  is  also  supported. 

On  the  road  to  Harlech,  distant  about  |  m.  immediately  after  crossing 
a  small  bridge,  is  a  footpath  up  a  wooded  valley  on  the  r.,  which  leads 

m.  to  Rhaiadyr.  du,  “  the  Black  Cataract.”  The  spot,  ’’says  Mr.  Bingley, 
“  is  surrounded  with  dark  and  impending  scenery,  and  the  water  is  thrown 
with  vast  impetuosity  over  three  black  smooth  rocks,  each  in  a  different 
direction.  Of  its  height  I  could  form  n«  idea,  as  the  top  of  the  upper 
fall,  by  the  winding  of  the  rocks,  was  not  visible  from  below.  The  rock 
which  hangs  immediately  over  the  fall,  was,  from  its  great  height  and  rude 
form,  a  fine  object  in  the  landscape,  and  the  whole  of  the  hollow,  for  some 
distance  helow  the  cataract,  extremely  grand.  I  attempted  to  climb  to  the 
upper  part,  but  the  rocks  were  too  perpendicular  and  slippery  to  attempt 
it  without  danger ;  therefore  contenting  myself  with  seeing  as  much  as  I 
could  from  below,  I  crossed  the  water,  and  crept  along  the  shelving  rocks, 
by  the  side  of  the  stream,  for  nearly  ^  m.  Here  the  banks  closed  in  over 


410 


MAENTWROG. 


my  liead^  leaving  but  a  narrow  chasm_,  from  which  the  light  was  excluded 
by  dark  foliage  from  each  side^  and  I  found  myself  enterings  to  appearance^ 
into  the  mouth  of  a  deep  and  horrid  cavern.  The  sides  were  too  steep  for  me 
to  think  of  clambering  up^  and  except  going  quite  back  again  to  the  cataract^ 
I  had  no  alternative  but  to  penetrate  the  place.  The  darkness  did  not 
extend  far ;  and  finding  its  banks  sufficiently  slanting  to  admit  of  my 
ascending  to  the  meadows  above,  I  was  not  a  little  pleased  to  escape  from 
this  abode  of  damp  and  horror.’'  The  Hypericum  androssemum  grows 
among  the  rocks  at  this  cataract.  On  regaining  the  road  to  Harlech,  the 
tourist  is  led  along  the  side  of  Llyn-Tegwyn-ucJiav,  ‘‘  the  Upper  Pool  of  the 
Tegwyn.”  This  sheet  of  water  is  large  and  beautifully  clear.  The 
Nymphse  alba  grows  in  this  pool.  On  one  side  is  a  range  of  low  rocks, 
composed  of  a  laminated  kind  of  slate,  which  has  mouldered,  in  many  places, 
to  the  bottom,  in  small  sharp  pieces,  somewhat  resembling  needles. 

Pass  the  inconsiderable  village  of  Llan  Tegwyn,  a  Church  dedicated 
to  St.  Tegwyn,  pleasantly  situated  above  the  sea,  in  a  rich  and  beautiful 
valley  ;  also  Llyn-Tegwyn-isav,  the  Lower  Tegwyn  Pool.”  About  3  m. 
distant  from  Harlech  is  a  charming  little  meadowy  vale,  which  forms  a 
pleasing  relief  to  the  rude  scenery  just  noticed. 

At  Pont-y-Crudd,  make  a  little  deviation  to  the  r.  through  the  wood  to 
Glyn,  an  old  mansion,  belonging  to  the  Porkington  family,  of  Shropshire. 
The  road  from  Maen  Twrog  and  Tan-y-bwlch,  to  Harlech,  is  scarcely 
passable  for  carriages,  but  there  is  one  from  Beddgelart,  along  the  sands, 
which  may  he  taken  at  low  water,  with  a  guide. 

Distances. — Pliaiadyr-du,  Im.,  Llyn-Tegwyn-uchav,  3m.,  Llan  Tegwyn, 
1  m.,  Llyn-Tegwyn-isav,  -i  m.,  Pont-y-Crudd,  m.,  Harlech,  3  m. 

On  his  way  to  Beddgelart,  Mr.  Evans  took  a  direction  directly 
north,  to  examine  the  mountains  called  Moelwyn.  “  In  this  tract  the 
mountains,”  says  Mr.  Evans,  almost  bare,  consist  of  huge  projecting 
rocks ;  fragments  lying  in  undigested  heaps,  and  crumbling  strata ;  the 
whole  surface  destitute  of  any  thing  like  vegetation,  save  the  Lichen  cal- 
cobeum,  exhibiting  the  wildest  confusion.  Except  the  wooded  summits 
on  the  1.  nothing  can  exceed  the  dreary  aspect  and  awful  desolation  of  the 
next  4  m.  of  this  road.  No  vestige  of  a  dwelling,  it  appears  like  a  country 
shaken  by  internal  convulsions,  from  which  vegetable,  as  well  as  ani¬ 
mated  nature,  has  fled.  It  seemed  matter  incapable  of  form  or  usefulness, 
left  in  its  elemental  state,  dismissed  by  Nature  from  her  care,  and  disin¬ 
herited  of  her  favours  ;  even  as  Burnet  says  of  Caernarvonshire,  the  frag¬ 
ment  of  a  demolished  world.”  What  is  not  naked  is  covered  with  heath 
and  ling,  with  here  and  there  a  stream  gushing  from  the  fissures  of  the 
rocks.  Ascending  still  higher,  we  gained  the  summit  of  Moel  Wyn-yr- 
Hydd ;  leaving  the  more  lofty  one  of  Moel-wyn-gwyn,  on  the  r.  Here 
the  lengthened  gloom  was  relieved  by  the  surrounding  views  ;  and  the  eye 
diverted  by  the  distant  scenery.  Before  us  were  the  dark,  naked  rocks  of 
Snowdon,  behind  us,  its  rival  Cader  Idris.  To  the  w.  the  Dwyryd, 
opening  in  the  Traeth  Mawr  to  the  bay,  the  Irish  Sea,  Barmouth,  Harlech 
Castle,  and  the  extensive  peninsula  of  Pemnorfa,  projecting  into  the  sea, 
visible  to  its  termination  at  Aberdaron.  On  a  boggy  plain  we  found  the 
beautiful  Osmunda  regalis,  and  the  air  was  highly  perfumed  with  the  odor¬ 
iferous  buds  of  the  Myrica  gale.  Descending  a  gullied  road,  we  came 
suddenly  upon  Pont  AhergldslynP 


To  Beddgelart,  10  miles ;  Tan-y-Bwlch  Inn,  i 
mile  ;  Pont  Aberglaslyn,  7f  miles  ;  Beddge¬ 
lart,  2  miles. 

Harlech,  10  miles.  Bingley  ;  Skrine. 


To  Harlech,  by  way  of  Rhaiadyr-du,  12  miles. 
Wyndham  ;  Pugh. 

Tan-y-Bwlch,  |m.  Pennant;  Aikin  ;  Warner. 
Pestiniog,  and  back,  6  miles.  Pugh. 


411 


MALLWYD. 


From  Bala,  19  miles.  Aikin. 

Cann  Office,  12  miles.  Evans. 
Machynlleth,  12  miles.  Warner. 


From  Dinas  Mowcldwy,  1|  m.  Pennant ;  Skrifie 
Newtown,  29  miles. 

Llanilltyd,  15^  miles.  Pennant ;  Pugh. 


MALLWYDj  or  Maen  Llwyd,  lies  in  the  hundred  of  Mawddwy_,  Me-* 
rionethshire_,  and  partly  in  the  hundred  of  Machynlleth,  Montgomeryshire. 
This  small  village  is  delightfully  situated  between  the  salient  angles  of 
three  abrupt  mountains,  Arran,  Carnlin,  and  Moel  DyH,  in  a  small  valley 
surrounded  by  many  delightful  scenes,  through  which  runs  the  river  Dyfi. 
The  population  of  this  parish  in  1831,  was  1137.  The  Church  is  an 
humble  Gothic  structure,  dedicated  to  Tydecho,  son  of  Amwn  Ddu,  and 
cousin  to  Cadfan.  The  communion  table  is  of  blue-black  marble,  obtained 
from  the  bed  of  the  river  below  the  bridge.  It  was  presented  by  Mr. 
Mytton  of  Ralston,  Shropshire,  in  1737j  and  was  placed  by  Dr.  Davies 
in  the  centre  of  the  church,  agreeably  to  the  direction  of  the  rubrick. 

The  table  shall  stand  where  morning  and  evening  prayers  are  appointed 
to  be  said.”  The  pavement  before  the  door  is  made  of  remarkably  small 
pebbles,  with  the  initials  of  the  doctor’s  name  wrought  in  it,  and  is  supposed 
to  have  been  done  during  his  life.  The  tower  is  constructed  of  wood, 
bearing  the  date  1640,  and  inscribed  soli  deo  sacrum,”  done  with  an 
auger.  Over  the  porch  are  suspended  a  rib  and  spine  bones  of  a  whale 
long  ago  caught  in  the  Dyfi. 

In  the  churchyard  are  several  large  yew  trees,  one  of  which,  far  supe¬ 
rior,  to  the  rest,  rises  from  the  ground  with  a  single  stem,  but  at  the  height 
of  between  3  and  4  ft.  divides  into  six  large  branches.  The  girth  of  the 
trunk  is  22  ft.  6  in.  The  average  radius  of  the  branches  which  spread  on 
every  side  is  39  ft.  forming  a  circumference  of  about  240  ft.  Of  the  6 
stems  4  spread  laterally  and  2  rise  nearly  perpendicular.  The  height 
from  the  root  to  the  summit  is  about  40  ft.  No  part  of  the  tree  exhibits 
any  symptoms  of  decay.  That  at  Aldworth,  in  Berkshire,  though  its  trunk 
be  9  yards  in  circumference,  is  not  comparable  to  this  in  health  and  beauty. 

Near  the  church  is  the  Rectory  House,  built  at  the  expense  of  Dr.  John 
Davies,  son  of  a  poor  weaver  of  Llanferres,  Denbighshire,  and  who  erected 
also  3  bridges  in  the  parish.  He  held  the  livings  of  Mallwyd  and  Llan-y_ 
Mowddwy,  was  author  of  several  works,  particularly  a  dictionary  in  Latin 
and  British  ;  assisted  Bishop  Parry  in  translating  the  Bible  into  Welsh  ; 
made  a  considerable  collection  of  the  compositions  of  the  ancient  bards, 
and  terminated  a  life  devoted  to  laborious  research  and  beneficence  in  l632. 

Here  is  a  good  posting  Inn.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  Indepen¬ 
dents,  and  Calvinistic  and  Wesleyan  Methodists. 

Mr.  Warner,  when  at  Mallwyd,  ascended  the  Carnlin,  in  order  to  con¬ 
template  the  setting  sun.  The  effort  was  laborious,  but  he  was  more  than 
repaid  by  the  glorious  scene  which  opened  on  reaching  the  summit.  The 
Arran  rose  2  or  3  m.  to  the  n.  ;  behind  the  whole  vale  of  the  Dyfi,  with 
its  river,  villages,  &c. ;  and  on  each  hand  was  a  tempestuous  sea  of 
mountains.” 

The  falls  of  the  Dyfi  at  Pont  Fallwyd  are  particularly  worth  examining. 
The  Rev.  J.  Evans  thus  describes  this  spot: — The  scenery,  which  ever 
way  the  eye  turns,  is  prodigiously  romantic.  The  mountains  form  a  grand 
natural  amphitheatre,  with  sylvan  sides  ;  through  which  peeps  here  and 


412 


MALLWYD. 


there,  a  whitewashed  cottage,  sufficient  to  remind  us  that  we  are  yet  in 
an  inhabited  country.  Camlin  rising  immediately,  with  rude  majesty,  on 
our  sight ;  and  the  conical  Aran,  lifting  its  resplendent  head,  with  the  differ¬ 
ent  cwmydd,  were  reflected  in  various  tint  and  shade  in  the  waters  of  the  Dyfi. 
Through  the  opening  of  the  mountains,  the  diminished  scenery  of  the  dis¬ 
tant  vale  appears  in  camera  obscura  in  front.  Opposite,  the  beautiful  cas¬ 
cade  formed  by  the  Dyfi  at  Pont  Fallwyd  is  peculiarly  fine.  The  river,  as 
if  impatient  to  rush  through  a  narrow  rocky  channel,  foams  against  a  high 
slate  rock  in  the  centre  of  the  bed,  dashes  into  the  pool  beneath,  and 
hastens,  in  hoarse  meanders,  to  meet  the  estuary  of  the  Dyfi.  Just 
above  is  a  lofty  mountain  bridge  of  a  single  arch,  grey  with  lichens,  on  one 
side  ornamented  with  ivy,  while  the  steep  and  rough  banks  are  feathered 
with  thick  underwood  to  the  water’s  edge.” 

At  a  short  distance  is  Moel  Ben-du,  a  very  steep  mountain,  which  Mr. 
Pugh  ascended  to  gain  a  view  of  Cwm  CowarcTi.  It  would  be  advisable, 
he  says,  for  those  who  may  visit  it,  to  enter  from  the  Bala  road,  a  little 
above  Dinas.  This  hollow  possesses  great  character,  though  it  suffers 
materially  by  comparison  with  some  of  the  cwmydd  of  Snowdon.  The  bottom 
consists  of  pasture  land,  and  contains  several  cottages  and  farm-houses. 
Hence  is  a  good  view  of  Penmaen-du,  on  the  1.  of  Dolgelly  road,  with  a 
bridge  and  some  houses  beneath.  The  summit  of  this  hill  here  presents  a 
line  of  nearly  a  mile  long,  without  the  smallest  serration  or  deviation  from 
a  parallel  with  the  horizon,  beneath  which  is  a  terrible  hollow. 

To  Dolgelly,  pass  a  steep  bridge  over  the  Clefion  river.  Half  a  mile 
further  is  a  fine  terrace  view  of  this  stream.  On  the  high  road,  is  Tafarn^ 
newydd,  1  m.  Crossing  the  Dyfi  over  an  excellent  stone  bridge  to  Minllin, 
im.,  reach  Dinas  Mowddy,  ^  m.  Winding  round  the  bases  of  the 
mountains  on  the  1.  and  descending  a  high  hill  leading  to  Dolgelly,  a  full 
view,  if  under  a  bright  sun,  may  be  had  of  Cader  Idris.  Dolgelly,  from 
this  declivity,  in  the  midst  of  a  valley  composed  of  meadows,  water, 
bridges,  and  surrounded  with  rocks,  woods,  and  mountains,  has  an  agree¬ 
able  effect.  On  this  route  the  river  gradually  diminishes,  till  at  the 
distance  of  7  m.,  its  fountain-head  on  an  elevated  swamp  is  attained ;  not 
many  yards  beyond  is  the  source  of  another  river.  The  first  is  the  Dyfi, 
which  terminates  at  Aberdovy.  The  second  flows  into  the  Wnion,  pro¬ 
nounced  Oonion,  and  reaches  the  sea  at  Barmouth. 

The  country  wears  a  dreary  aspect  till  we  reach  the  greatest  height  of 
Bwlch  Oerddrws,  just  above  Dolgelly,  when  the  most  interesting  scenery 
opens.  Cader  Idris,  completely  foreshortened,  shows  its  separated  sides  to 
great  advantage.  1  m.  to  the  r.  of  the  house  Caej'ynwch,  or  the  Bo7'f 
Ynwch,  is  the  summer  residence  of  Richard  Richards,  Esq.,  upon  the  banks 
of  a  mountain  rippler.  By  a  long  and  steep  descent  reach  Dolgelly, 
where  are  several  good  inns. 

On  the  road  to  Bala,  a  pleasing  excursion  may  be  made  up  the  vale  of 
the  Mowddwy,  on  the  banks  of  the  Dyfi.  This  valley,  7  m.  in  length,  is 
in  some  places  so  narrow,  as  scarcely  to  admit  a  meadow  between  the  river 
and  the  mountains  which  form  it.  These  appear  in  some  places  almost 
perpendicular,  and  in  others  in  such  verdant  slopes  as  to  supply  numerous 
flocks  with  pasturage.  The  highest  parts  of  their  sides  abound  with 
brown  heath,  and  on  their  summits  are  numerous  turbaries.  The  peasantry 
bring  the  dried  peat  down  the  mountain  sides  upon  sledges,  in  a  manner  both 
laborious  and  dangerous.  The  mountains  opening  on  the  1.,  exhibit  a  grand 
view  of  the  irregular  summit  of  Ai'an-Fowddwy,  which  rises  above  the  other 
mountains.  A  little  farther  up  the  vale,  occurs  the  small  village  of  LJan- 


MARGAM. 


413 


y~Fowddwy,  having  a  church  dedicated  to  Tydecho^  a  primitive  saint  of 
the  early  British  church.  The  cottages  at  this  place  and  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood  are  exceedingly  rude.  Pursuing  the  course  of  the  river_,  the 
tourist  arrives  at  the  celebrated  pass  of  Bwlch.y-Groes,  so  called  from  a 
cross  which  formerly  stood  on  the  summit.  The  face  of  the  country  here 
assumes  a  terrific  appearance^  as  if  warning  the  traveller  to  proceed  no 
farther.  A  long  range  of  very  high  mountains  running  nearly  e.  and  w., 
and  rising  one  above  the  other  in  tremendous  grandeur,  divides  the  counties 
of  Merioneth  and  Montgomery.  A  deep  ravine  through  these  forms  the  pass, 
which  consists  of  a  zigzag  staircase  upon  shelving  slate  stones.  An  excellent 
road  is,  however,  formed  along  the  w.  side  of  the  mountain,  at  a  vast 
expense,  in  order  to  make  a  communication  between  the  n.  and  s.  less  dif-^ 
ficult  and  perfectly  safe.  The  Rubus  idaeus  and  Saxifraga  nivalis  flourish 
in  this  district.  On  the  n.  side  of  this  chain  of  mountains  on  the  banks 
of  Llyn  Tegid,  in  the  parish  of  Llan-y-Cil,  lies  the  small  town  of  Bala, 
remarkable  for  its  extensive  lake  and  trade  in  woollen  stockings,  comfortables, 
&c.  where  there  are  two  good  inns. 

On  the  road  to  Machynlleth,  following  the  course  of  the  Dyfi  all  the 
way,  the  Merionethshire  border  is  quitted  and  that  of  Montgomery  entered 
upon  An  obvious  difference  between  the  two  counties  is  apparent  in  the 
face  of  the  country  and  population.  The  vale  widens,  the  mountains  are 
greener  and  less  lofty,  the  pastures  are  intermixed  with  corn-fields,  and, 
the  houses  more  numerous.  The  sound  of  the  loom  begins  to  be  heard, 
tenter-grounds  are  seen,  and  fulling-mills  appear  upon  the  brooks  and 
rivers. 


To  Machynlleth,  12  miles.  Aikin. 

Dinas  Mowddwy,  l^  miles,  and  back  ;  thence 
to  Dolgelly,  12  miles.  Hutton. 

Bala,  19  miles.  Evans. 

Dinas  Mowddwy,  H  mile.  Warner. 


To  Cann  Office,  12  miles.  Skrine. 
Returned  to  Dinas  Mowddwy.  Pennant. 
To  Welshpool,  25^  miles. 

Dolgelly,  10  miles.  Pugh. 


MARGAM. 

From  Briton  Ferry,  7  miles.  Barber;  Malkin.  I  From  Pyle,  3  m.  Wyndham  ;  Donovan  ;  Skrine; 

Newton  Nottage,  7  miles.  Evans.  |  Warner. 

MARGAM  is  a  village  most  delightfully  situate  at  the  verge  of  a  mag¬ 
nificent  forest  of  oak,  on  the  line  of  the  great  western  road  through  the 
county.  It  lies  in  the  hundred  of  Newcastle,  Glamorganshire,  and  abounds 
in  monastic  antiquities.  In  1831,  the  population  of  the  parish  containing 
the  hamlets  of  Bronbil,  Higher  Cynfeg,  HMod-y-Porth,  Margam,  and 
Trisaint,  was  2902.  There  is  a  post-office  here,  and  on  Saturday  a  cus¬ 
tomary  market  is  held  adjacent  to  the  copper- works.  The  parish  contains 
3200  acres  of  good  land;  4800  are  poor  and  sterile,  and  3200  are  un¬ 
inclosed  mountain  and  warren.  The  Rev.  John  Hunt,  LL.  D.,  author  of  a 
Topographical  Dictionary  of  Wales,  conjectures  that  Margam  is  a  cor¬ 
ruption  of  the  ancient  British  name  Mawrgan,  the  great  head  or  chief.” 
Previous  to  the  1 3th  century,  this  parish  was  called  Pen  Dar,  i.  e.  the 
Oak  Summit.  Four  chapels  of  ease  to  Margam  are  extinct,  viz  : — Eglwys 
Nuwyd,  Hafod-y-Porth,  Trisaint,  and  another  in  that  part  of  Margam 
Wood,  called  Craig-y-Capel,  upon  an  eminence  above  the  present  church. 
The  latter  is  supposed  by  some  to  have  been  a  private  oratory.  This 
Abbey  was  founded  by  Robert  Earl  of  Gloucester  in  1147,  and 
assumed  its  appellation  from  Mawrgan  the  son  of  Caradog,  about  the 


414 


MARGAM. 


year  1200.  A  mile  from  the  abbey  was  a  convent  called  Eglwys  Nunyd, 
or  the  Nun’s  Church,  now  a  farm-house.  Probably,  Earl  Robert,  at  his 
death  at  Gloucester,  Oct.  31.,  1147^  endowed  this  seclusion,  being  part  of 
the  dominions  which  he  possessed  by  marriage  with  Maud,  daughter  and 
heiress  of  Robert  Fitzhamon,  the  Norman  chieftain  of  Glamorganshire. 
By  the  same  authority  he  became  lord  of  the  castle  and  township  of  Cynfeg, 
also  of  Cardiff  Castle.  Towards  the  end  of  the  12th  century,  Caradog 
bequeathed  large  possessions  to  the  abbey  of  Pen  Par.  In  a  grant  of  lands 
bestowed  on  that  establishment  in  1349^  by  Sir  John  d’Abene,  a  descendant 
from  Caradog,  it  is  termed  the  Abbey  of  Margam.  The  wood  which  rises 
immediately  from  the  church  in  a  line  parallel  with  it,  presents  a  mag¬ 
nificent  object,  and  is  a  conspicuous  landmark  to  the  Bristol  Channel.  It 
covers  the  breast  of  a  mountain  800  ft.  in  height,  more  than  a  mile  in  cir¬ 
cumference,  and  in  grandeur  is  supposed  to  stand  unrivalled.  The  value  of 
the  oak  timber  has  been  estimated  at  60,000/.  At  the  dissolution  of  abbeys, 
on  the  5th  of  August,  35  Hen.  VIII.,  it  was  sold  to  Sir  Rice  Mansel,  knight, 
for  642/.  9-^*  8c/.,  and  he  came  to  reside  here,  suffering  his  castles  in  Gower 
to  become  dilapidated.  A  modern  elegant  house  was  built  by  the  possessor 
of  the  Margam  estate,  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  of  Penrice.  It  is  the  re¬ 
sidence  of  the  Talbot  family,  heirs  of  the  Mansels.  The  old  mansion  at 
Margam,  which  was  attached  to  and  included  part  of  the  abbey,  was  taken 
down  about  the  year  1780,  but  the  monastic  remains  which  consisted 
chiefly  of  cloisters  containing  an  angle  of  a  quadrangle,  were  preserved. 
These  lead  to  the  grand  entrance  of  a  Chapter  House,  a  duodecagon,  50  ft. 
in  diameter.  On  the  17th  of  Jan.  1799:)  consequence  of  the  outer  walls 
becoming  defective,  this  elegant  Gothic  structure  became  a  ruin.  The 
stones  which  were  inarched  in  the  compartments  between  the  elliptic 
branching  ribs  of  the  dome  first  fell ;  two  of  the  ribs  soon  followed ;  this 
producing  an  unequal  bearing  upon  the  central  column,  a  third  stone  was 
forced  from  its  base,  when  the  roof  collapsed  and  fell  from  the  side  walls, 
leaving  only  the  spring  of  the  arches  as  a  lamentable  relic  of  its  departed 
beauty.  (See  a  further  account  of  this  abbey  in  Sir  Richard  Colt  Hoare’s 
edition  of  Giraldus  Cambrensis,  vol.  i.  p.  151.)  The  parish  Church  de¬ 
dicated  to  St,  Mary,  which  is  the  w.  half  of  what  existed  in  monastic 
times,  is  still  a  very  spacious  edifice  ;  but  becoming  ruinous,  it  was  re¬ 
paired  through  the  munificence  of  the  late  Mr.  Talbot  in  1810.  The 
w.  front  presents  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Norman  style.  In  restoring  the 
N.  aisle  to  its  original  width,  the  old  foundation  was  discovered,  and  many 
gravestones  with  ornamented  crosses,  have  been  brought  to  light  and  pre¬ 
served.  The  most  curious  and  perfect  of  these  is  a  stone  6  ft.  by  1  ft.  and 
8  in.  in  the  middle  width,  to  the  memory  of  an  abbot,  bearing  the  fol¬ 
lowing  verses,  one  on  each  side,  without  date:  — 

“  Constans  et  certus  jacet  hie  Ryewallis  opertus 
Abbas  Robertus,  cujus  Deus  esto  misertus.” 

A  mutilated  figure  of  a  crusader  in  chain  armour,  the  size  of  life,  has  been 
discovered ;  the  legs  are  broken  and  the  head  lost.  A  pillar  on  the  e.  side 
of  the  churchyard,  at  the  head  of  a  grave,  is  now  sunk  in  the  earth  ;  its 
capital  only  appears,  affording  a  subject  of  research.  An  inscription  in  an 
ancient  character  has  not  been  deciphered.  Recumbent  on  monumental 
tombs,  highly  embellished  with  sculpture  and  alabaster  ornament,  are  seven 
figures  large  as  life,  the  males  in  armour.  The  font  is  formed  of  a  beau¬ 
tiful  piece  of  marble  dug  from  the  rocks  at  the  Mumbles.  The  roof  rises 
upon  six  pillars  on  each  side,  terminating  in  arches,  dividing  it  into  eight 


MARGAM. 


415 


compartments,  by  small  columns.  The  distant  view  of  the  monuments, 
from  the  two  side  aisles,  is  superbly  striking.  An  extensive  burying  ground 
is  contiguous,  whence  is  a  fine  view  of  the  park. 

A  very  curious  ancient  cross  stands  in  an  inclined  position  against  the 
wall  of  one  of  the  village  alehouses  in  the  main  street  leading  to  the 
church  ;  and  in  the  adjoining  grounds  are  various  inscribed  monumental 
stones;  on  one  is  the  following  inscription  :  —  Senatus  populusque  vero- 
manus  divo  Tito,  divi  Vespasiani,  F.  Vespasiano  Augusto.”  On  the 
summit  of  a  hill  to  the  r.  is  a  square  stone  called  Y-maen-Llythyrog,  i.  e. 
the  lettered  stone.  [See  Neath.]  A  little  further  is  a  mountain  called 
Mynydd  Dormini,  The  summit  is  a  level  pasture  on  which  stands  a  large 
rude  stone  about  14  ft.  high,  called  by  Camden  Maen  Lythyrog,  and  at  a 
small  distance  an  Agger,  or  heap  of  loose  stones.  On  the  w.  of  this  hill  is 
a  Roman  camp  and  many  old  intrenchments  lie  contiguous.  There  are 
two  Roman  monuments  in  this  parish.  One  near  Eglwys  Nynydd,  on  the 
high-road  from  Margam  to  Cynfeg,  on  which  is  inscribed  Pompeius 
Carantorius.”  The  other  upon  Margam  mountain,  is  inscribed  bo- 

DOVIG  JACET  HIC  FLUS  CATOTI  SIBNI  PRONEPVS  ETENAL  VE  DOMAV.’’ 

Owing  to  the  abundance  of  coal,  several  extensive  works  have  been  es¬ 
tablished  in  this  parish.  Those  erected  by  J.  Reynolds,  Esq.,  on  the 
property  of  C.  R.  M.  Talbot,  Esq.,  form  one  of  the  most  striking  and 
interesting  features  in  the  county.  Tramroads  have  been  formed  from 
the  works.  The  market  is  held  on  Saturday. 

Margam  Park  has  been  chiefly  noticed  on  account  of  its  orangery, 
which  is  said  to  have  originated  in  a  shipwreck  on  this  coast.  The  vessel 
was  conveying  from  Portugal  to  queen  Mary  a  present  from  a  Dutch  mer¬ 
chant  of  orange  and  lemon  trees.  Being  stranded,  the  plants  became  a 
waif,  or  else  by  purchase,  the  property  of  Lord  Mansel.  Thomas  Mansel 
Talbot,  Esq.,  in  the  year  1787^  built  for  their  reception  a  green-house,  in  a 
most  superb  style,  327  ft.  in  length,  with  a  handsome  palladium  front.  The 
first  part  of  the  interior  of  the  former  erection  consists  of  a  saloon  for  the 
reception  of  sculpture  and  statuary.  Here  are  two  Roman  altars  of  great 
antiquity,  two  whole  statues  as  large  as  life,  of  the  emperor  Tiberius  and 
Severus,  a  statue  of  Hercules,  well  executed ;  a  beautiful  vase  of  white 
marble  richly  embossed,  with  a  bacchanalian  procession  ;  another  with 
grapes  and  vine  leaves,  all  inimitably  sculptured  ;  a  handsome  porphyretic 
vase,  also  two  from  Herculaneum  ;  with  other  curiosities.  From  the  saloon, 
enter  the  orangery,  which  is  327  ft.  long,  30  ft.  wide,  and  20  ft.  high,  for 
the  reception,  in  winter,  of  110  fine  orange  and  lemon  trees,  with  other 
plants.  Pass  forward  to  the  other  end,  where  there  is  an  erection  of  equal 
size  with  the  first  saloon,  denominated  a  library.  Here  are  deposited  some 
curious  cork  models  of  the  temple  of  Diana,  the  temple  of  Tivoli,  Vespa¬ 
sian’s  Triumphal  Arch,  and  the  head  and  horns  of  an  uncommon  species  of 
deer.  The  exterior  is  plain  but  of  great  extent.  It  consists  of  circular 
arches  of  fretwork  over  square  windows.  In  the  year  1800,  Mr.  Talbot 
added  a  conservatory,  with  flues  in  the  ground,  100  ft.  long.  The  trees  in 
the  green-house  are  all  standards,  planted  in  square  boxes,  and  have  re¬ 
markably  round  branching  heads.  They  are  about  110  in  number,  and 
many  of  them  18  ft.  high.  About  40  in  the  conservatory  are  planted  in 
natural  earth,  and  traced  against  a  trellis  framing,  where  the  fruit  attains 
its  native  size  and  flavour.  The  collection  consists  of  the  Seville,  China 
Cedra,  Pomegranate,  Curl-leaved,  and  Nutmeg  Orange,  Lemons,  Burgamots, 
Citrons,  and  Shadocks.  The  pleasure-ground  surrounding  these  orangeries, 
is  peculiarly  favourable  to  the  growth  of  evergreens ;  among  these  a  bay 


416 


MARGAM. 


tree  sprouting  from  one  root  in  various  branches,  is  upwards  of  60  ft.  high, 
supposed  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  arbuti  are  innumerable ; 
among  which  are  scattered  hollies,  the  Portugal  laurel,  &c.,  which  attain  an 
extraordinary  size,  and  present  a  rich  and  luxurious  appearance.  The  care 
of  Margam  is  consigned  to  a  gardener,  who  is  allowed  to  admit  strangers, 
and  frequently  attends  them  through  the  walks. 

Mr.  Wyndham  visited  this  abbey  about  the  year  1773,  when  the  vaulted 
roof  of  the  Chapter-house  was  perfect.  Sir  Richard  Hoare  exclaimed,  on 
a  recent  visit  to  this  spot,  ^‘^Alas  !  the  Chapter-house,  that  justly  admired 
Gothic  gem,  is  no  more,  since  all  that  rendered  it  interesting  has  perished  ; 
and  the  future  tourist  may  exclaim,  Stat  nominis  umbra. 

Upon  the  well-wooded  hill  to  the  n.  which  rises  above  Margam,  the  trees 
bend  so  much  from  the  sea-breeze  as  to  exhibit  the  appearance  of  a  well- 
clipped  hedge.  A  copper  work,  on  a  plan  more  extensive  than  any  other 
in  the  Principality,  is  carried  on  here  under  the  title  of  the  English  Copper 
Company,  the  oldest  association  of  that  kind  in  the  kingdom.  This  under¬ 
taking  commenced  about  the  year  1776.  A  commodious  harbour  at  the 
influx  of  the  Avon  into  the  Bristol  Channel  commands  a  great  facility  of 
exportation.  Iron  ore  and  limestone  abound  in  this  neighbourhood. 

In  our  walk  to  Cynfeg,  or  Kenfio,”  says  Mr.  Donovan,  we  passed 
Eglwys  Nynydd,  an  extensive  tract  of  land  which  belonged  to  the  church 
before  the  dissolution.  About  |  m.  on  the  road  we  saw  the  stone  pillar 
before  mentioned.  It  is  a  quadrangular  column  about  4  ft.  high.  The  dis¬ 
tant  tower  of  Kenfig  church  serves  as  the  best  guide,  there  being  only  a  cart- 
track  besides  to  depend  upon.  Kenfig  once  harboured  a  desperate  banditti 
of  lurking  fellows,  who  obtained  a  profitable  livelihood  by  smuggling,  the 
plunder  of  wrecks,  &c.,  whom  it  was  necessary  to  visit  with  caution.” 
Cynfeg  Pool  is  esteemed  a  geological  curiosity.  The  water  is  embosomed 
in  a  depression  of  irregular  form,  amidst  sands,  and  though  lying  within  a 
very  short  distance  of  the  sea  at  flood-tide,  invariably  retains  its  freshness, 
untainted  by  the  muriatic  properties  of  the  former.  The  circumference  of 
this  pool  is  estimated  at  1 1  m.  Nympha  alba  abounds  in  the  shallows  of  this 
water,  and  Viola  lutea  occurs  on  the  adjoining  heath.  The  ruin  of  Cynfeg 
Castle  is  obscure  and  rarely  visited.  It  lies  at  a  distance  from  this  pool, 
upon  a  small  eminence,  surrounded  by  a  cluster  of  sand  hills,  in  the  midst 
of  a  sandy  plain,  which  stretches  along  one  side  of  the  village.  Tradition 
says  it  was  the  castellated  residence  of  Fitzhamon  for  some  years,  while  the 
castle  of  Cardiff  was  rebuilding ;  to  which  account  history  adds  a  concur¬ 
rent  testimony.  [See  Sir  E.  Stradling  and  Leland.]  Taibach  is  a  small 
place  inhabited  by  coal  miners  and  smelters  belonging  to  the  adjoining 
extensive  copper-works.  The  nearest  accommodation  is  at  Ahe^'avon,  a 
mile  distant.  At  Taibach  a  chapel  of  ease  was  erected  in  1827?  chiefly 
by  the  contributions  of  C.  R.  M.  Talbot,  Esq.  and  others.  Here  is  also 
a  spacious  school-room  erected  by  the  English  Copper  Company,  who 
allow  1/.  a  week  for  the  instruction  of  an  unlimited  portion  of  the  juvenile 
population. 

The  road  to  Briton  Ferry  continues  under  the  mountains,  near  the 
Severn,  passing  some  large  copper-works  to  Aberavon,  where  it  crosses  a 
stone  bridge  of  one  arch,  built  by  the  self-taught  architect  of  Pont-y-Prydd. 
Four  miles  further  is  a  hilly  rise,  whence  the  scenery  of  Briton  Ferry 
and  Vernon  Park  is  suddenly  descried. 

On  the  road  to  Pyle,  Cynfeg  is  left  to  the  r. 

To  Pyle,  3  miles.  Barber;  Malkin.  Wyndham;  Donovan;  Evans;  Skrine; 

Briton  Ferry,  by  way  of  Aberavon,  7  miles.  Warner. 

To  Bridgend,  8^  miles. 


417 


MEIVOD. 

From  Cann  Office,  13  miles.  Pugh.  |  From  Llanvair,  5  miles. 

MEIVOD,  a  very  extensive  parish  and  market-town,  in  Montgomery¬ 
shire,  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  flanked  by  lofty  mountains.  Within 
the  last  few  years  this  place  has  risen  to  considerable  importance,  and  may 
be  considered  as  one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  smaller  towns  of  the  Prin¬ 
cipality.  The  houses  are  of  stone,  roofed  with  slate,  neatly  and  well  con¬ 
structed,  and  the  place  has  altogether  a  highly  interesting  and  prepossessing 
appearance.  The  usual  etymology  is  Myfod,  but  according  to  Welsh  ortho¬ 
graphy  Meivod.  Mai  Vod,  may  be  translated,  a  summer  habitation,”  or 

a  champaign  dwelling.”  Meu-fod,  a  place  of  appropriation  or  peculiar 
possession  ;  Ymwy-fod,  between  rivers.  Some  have  supposed  the  term  is 
derived  from  Meudwy-fod,  ‘‘  the  habitation  of  a  hermit.”  Llan  in  Welsh  is 
added  to  words  to  denote  an  enclosure,  as  corphlan,  a  churchyard ;  corlan,  a 
sheep-fold  :  hence  Meudwylan  would  signify  the  premises  belonging  to  a  her¬ 
mit.  Add  a  Roman  termination,  and  it  will  make  Meudwylanium,  or  Medio¬ 
lanum,  answering  to  the  name  of  a  post  in  the  Itinerary  of  Antoninus  which 
is  placed  between  Banger  (Bovium),  and  Rowton  (Retunium).  Hence  most 
antiquaries  attach  to  this  place  the  former  Roman  station.  Few  are  the  vestiges 
which  remain  to  support  this  conjecture,  but  it  should  be  considered  that 

Time  consumes  the  skeletons  of  cities,  and  buries  even  ruins.”  If  this  vale 
be  viewed  from  some  situations  on  the  s.  w.  of  the  village,  it  will  not  suffer 
much  by  a  comparison  with  that  of  Festiniog.  Though  it  does  not  contain 
a  rock  equalling  that  of  Moel-wyn,  yet  it  has  a  greater  variety  of  detail, 
and  abundantly  excels  the  other  in  fertility.  It  is  weU-wooded,  and  the 
Vyrnwy  renders  it  almost  an  Eden.  The  vale  is  7  or  8  miles  in  extent, 
and  varies  in  width  from  1  to  2  m.  The  population  of  this  parish  in 
1831  (consisting  of  the  townships  of  Cefn  Llyfnog,  Cil,  Cwm,  Dyfryn, 
Main,  Nant-y-Meichiad,  Reniarth,  Tair  Tref,  Tref  Edryd  and  Tref  Nan- 
ney),  was  1861. 

About  the  year  1800,  a  market  on  Friday  was  established  here ;  also  fairs 
were  appointed  to  be  held  on  the  20th  of  Jan.,  the  last  Tuesday  in  April, 
and  22d  of  September.  Here  are  several  mineral  springs,  some  of  which 
possess  considerable  medicinal  properties.  Fynnon-Darogan,  or  Well  of 
Divination,  is  protected  by  a  cupola,  but  possesses  no  peculiar  qualities. 
Fynnon-y-Groftydd  is  strongly  sulphureous  and  efficacious  in  cutaneous 
eruptions.  Fynnon-y  clawdd-lleseg  consists  of  two  springs  :  one  contains 
a  gaseous  impregnation,  the  other  is  characterised  by  no  mineral  properties.  It 
has  been  much  resorted  to  in  spring  by  scrofulous  subjects,  who  have  found 
relief  from  exposure  to  the  action  of  the  flowing  water.  The  rocks  in  this 
parish  abound  with  barytes  and  other  minerals.  The  present  Church  was  de¬ 
dicated  to  St.  Mary,  according  to  Caradoc,  about  the  year  1153.  It  seems  to 
have  been  raised  from  the  materials  of  two  former  churches,  of  which  the 
first  was  dedicated  to  Gwyddfarch,  an  anchorite,  who  lived  on  the  brow  of 
Gallt-yr-Ancr,  a  hill  in  this  parish,  son  of  Arnalarus,  prince  of  Pwyl.  The 
second  was  consecrated  to  St.  Tysilio,  an  eminent  saint,  said  to  have  been 
the  second  son  of  Brochwel  Ysgythrog,  whose  palace  was  at  Shievvsbury. 
Some  parts  of  the  foundation  appear  in  the  cemetery,  which  is  immoderately 

E  E 


418 


MEIVOD. 


large  for  so  small  a  population,  consisting  of  9  acres^  and  is  let  for  20/. 
This  is  now  the  mother  church  to  Welshpool  and  Guilsfield.  Meivod  is 
said  to  have  been  the  archdeaconry  of  all  Powysland.  In  the  principal 
church  were  interred  several  of  the  princes  of  Powys  ;  Madog  ap  Meredydd 
ap  Blyddyn  ap  Cynfyn,  one  of  that  noble  house_,  who  died  at  Winchester, 
in  ll60,  was  conveyed  hither  ;  also  the  noble  Gryffydd  Maelor,  lord  of  the 
lower  moiety  of  Powys,  who  died  in  1188.  The  only  relic  of  monumental 
antiquity,  is  a  siliceous  freestone,  lying  flat  in  the  chancel.  It  is  rudely 
sculptured  in  basso-relievo,  bearing  the  figure  of  a  large  sword.  Here  is  an 
excellent  public-house,  and  the  charges  very  reasonable.  In  the  12th 
century  Cynddelw,  a  poet  laureate,  and  native  of  this  parish,  in  one  of  his 
compositions,  describes  the  present  church  as  newly  founded,  between  two 
rivers.  In  subsequent  times  these  streams  were  united  and  called  Vyrnwy^ 
the  Spreading  River,’^  which  falls  into  the  Severn  at  Cymmerau,  12  m.  e. 
of  Meivod.  Mr.  Thomas  Pryce,  of  Llanfyllin,  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Josiah 
Babington,  written  April  12.  1701,  says,  Besides  the  parish  church  now 
standing,  I  myself  have  seen  the  ruins  of  two  others.  I  have  also  seen 
the  ruins  of  a  Crefydd-dy,  or  religious  house.’^  In  this  charming  retire¬ 
ment  from  the  agitating  fluctuations  of  a  busy  world,  there  is  an  endowed 
school,  and  4  almshouses.  A  post-office,  subordinate  to  Oswestry,  is  es¬ 
tablished  here.  At  Maes-y~Porth,  and  contiguous  fields,  causeways, 
foundations  of  buildings,  floors,  and  hearths,  have  been  discovered,  but  no 
inscription  has  been  found  clearly  developing  its  abstruse  history,  or  even 
justifying  the  propriety  of  the  appellation  of  Mediolanum,  with  which  some 
antiquarians  have  honoured  it.  About  1  m.  above  Meivod  is  JSIathraval, 
once  a  splendid  palace,  now  a  farm-house,  erected  upon  the  site  of  a  stately 
castle,  which  occupied  nearly  two  acres,  in  Powys  Land.  It  is  guarded  on 
one  side  by  the  river  Vyrnwy,  and  on  the  other  by  a  vast  rampart  of  stone 
and  earth,  with  a  deep  foss  and  a  high  keep  at  one  corner.  The  original 
fortress,  according  to  Caradoc,  was  built  by  Robert  Uspont  in  1211,  and 
soon  after  besieged  by  Llywelyn  ap  Jorwerth,  but  King  John  drew  up  an 
army  and  raised  the  siege,  ordering  the  castle  to  be  burnt.  On  the  oppo¬ 
site  side  of  the  river,  in  Gwern-du  wood,  is  a  circular  intrenchment,  and  in 
a  field  beyond,  a  round  moat,  supposed  to  have  been  a  winter  station  of  the 
Romans. 

To  Llanfyllin,  Mr.  Pugh  notices  the  huge  rock  Gallt-yr-Ancr  (see  p. 
417.),  where  are  also  traces  of  a  British  fortification,  and  on  the  side  of  the 
same  hill  is  Bedd-y-Cawr,  the  Grave  of  the  Giant."’  Some  remains  of  this 
kind  are  visible  on  Hen-allt  in  Tref-nannau,  at  the  Gaer  and  near  Clawdd- 
llesg.  Crossing  a  mountainous  country  he  passed  the  house  of  Mr. 

Lloyd  Tudor.  He  then  descended  a  steep  hill,  to  a  few  cottages, 
and  deviated  1  m.  to  the  e.,  and  viewed  from  an  acclivity  this  singu¬ 
lar  and  beautiful  valley.  Its  figure  is  a  circle,  the  diameter  3  m.  of  fine 
land,  chiefly  in  tillage,  watered  by  the  Cane.  Passed  thence  the  elegant 
mansion  of  Llwyn^  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Humphreys.  Crossing  the  Bro¬ 
gan  at  Nant-y-mechiaid  ;  a  deviation  2  m.  to  the  e.  leads  to  Bron  Gwyyi, 
Mar tyn  Williams,  Esq.,  high  sheriff  for  the  county,  1838 ;  above  the  mansion 
is  a  circular  British  entrenchment.  Many  of  these  front  the  low  country,  as 
if  to  protect  the  internal  parts.  There  is  a  very  strong  rampart,  to  defend 
a  pass  into  the  vale  of  Meivod  ;  the  church  and  village  are  situated  in 
the  middle,  which  is  a  flat  extending  upwards  of  5  m.  and  is  about  -i- 
broad.  Three  parts  are  bounded  by  low  hills,  prettily  wooded  ;  one  end 
opens  into  the  plain,  finely  terminated  by  the  Breidden  Hills,  which  form  a 
conspicuous  feature  in  this  county  and  part  of  Shropshire.  The  Vyrnwy, 


MERTHYR  TYDVIL.  419 

a  beautiful  spreading  river^  as  the  term  implies,  winds  along  the  middle  of 
the  vale ;  its  borders  are  exuberant  in  wheat,  rye,  and  grass. 

To  Llanfyllin,  6  miles.  Pugh. 


MERTHYR  TYDVIL. 


From  Caerphilly  Castle,  18  miles.  Malkin. 

Pont-y-Prydd,  12  miles.  Evans;  Manby. 


From  Brecon,  18|  miles.  Skrine. 


MERTHYR  TYDVIL,  a  market-town,  parish,  and  newly-created 
borough,  in  the  hundred  of  Caerphilly,  Glamorganshire,  derives  its  name 
from  Tydvil,  daughter  of  Brychan,  prince  of  Brecheiniog.  Upon  the 
authority  of  the  Truman  MS.  she  met  her  aged  father,  attended  by  some 
of  her  brothers,  whereupon  they  were  beset  by  a  party  of  Saxons,  and 
Gwyddyl  Ffichti,  when  she,  her  father,  and  her  brother  Rliun  Dremrudd 
were  murdered.  A  church  was  dedicated  to  her  near  the  place  of  slaughter. 

This  town  was  a  very  inconsiderable  village  till  about  1755,  when  the 
late  Mr.  Bacon  attended  to  the  iron  and  coal  mines,  and  obtained  a  lease 
of  a  district  8  m.  long  and  four  wide,  at  the  rent  of  200/.  per  annum  for 
99  years.  After  realising  an  immense  property,  about  the  year  1783  he 
disposed  of  this  mineral  region  in  leases. 

Merthyr  Tydvil  is  the  site  of  iron-works  on  the  most  extensive  scale, 
including  the  two  vast  concerns  of  Dowlais  and  Cyfarthfa,  which  are  little 
townships  in  themselves,  sprung  solely  from  the  iron  manufactory,  under 
the  spirited  direction  of  Sir  John  Guest,  Lewis,  and  Co.  and  the  Messrs. 
Crawshay.  The  unrivalled  establishment  of  the  former  firm  has  15  fur¬ 
naces  in  full  activity,  and  four  others  building ;  five  blown  with  hot,  and  ten 
with  cold,  air.  These  15  furnaces  make  on  an  average  1350  tons  of  pig 
iron  per  week,  nearly  the  whole  of  which  is  converted  into  malleable  iron, 
i.e.  about  1000  tons  of  bars,  rails,  and  rods  per  week.  At  this  establishment 
are  employed  upwards  of  4000  hands.  The  Pen-y-darran  Iron  Company 
have  six  furnaces  in  blast,  and  one  out,  making  about  400  tons  to  500  tons 
cast  iron  per  week,  and  they  convert  nearly  the  whole  of  it  into  malleable 
iron,  of  which  they  produce  about  400  tons  per  week.  The  whole  of  these 
furnaces  are  blown  with  cold  air.  The  Cyfarthfa  Iron  Wo^dcs  belong  to 
Messrs.  Crawshay  and  Sons.  These  works  are  said  to  be  the  neatest  and 
best  arranged  in  all  South  Wales.  Amongst  other  interesting  objects  may 
be  seen  the  largest  pump  ever  heard  of.  The  diameter  of  the  work¬ 
ing  barrel  is  6  ft.,  and  the  length  of  the  lift  in  the  barrel  is  4  ft..  It  pumps 
up  the  whole  of  the  river  TafF;  and  the  water,  after  turning  all  the  wheels 
about  the  works,  is  discharged  into  the  bed  of  the  river.  This  may  appear, 
at  first  view,  an  expensive  way  of  obtaining  power  ;  but  experience  shows 
that  it  is  cheaper  than  erecting  a  number  of  small  engines,  or  transmitting 
power  through  complicated  machinery.  Besides  the  Cyfarthfa,  Messrs. 
Crawshay  possess  the  Hirwain  Wo7'ks,  which  are  situated  about  6  m.  from 
Merthyr.  At  these  two  establishments  there  are  in  the  whole  fourteen  blast 
furnaces,  twelve  at  work,  all  blown  with  cold  air,  and  two  inoperative. 
They  make  about  900  tons  of  cast  iron  per  week,  and  the  greatest  part  of 
it  is  made  into  malleable  iron,  of  which  they  produce  600  to  6‘50  tons  per 
week.  Next  visit  the  Plymoiith  Iron  Works,  belonging  to  Messrs.  Richard 
and  Anthony  Hill.  Here  are  seven  furnaces  all  in  blast,  and  all  blown 
with  cold  air,  making  700  tons  of  cast  iron  per  week  on  an  average,  and 

E  E  2 


4  20 


MERTHYR  TYDVIL. 


from  which  they  make  about  600  into  bars,  &c.  weekly.  To  make  1000 
tons  of  bar-iron  weekly,  requires  about  4000  persons  of  every  description. 
The  rates  of  wages  for  men  range  from  12,9.  to  bO^'.,  for  women  6s.  to  10,9., 
and  for  boys  7^-  to  11 9.  per  week.  The  proportions  of  the  materials  used 
in  each  process,  and  the  waste  of  the  iron  are  as  follow  : —  Fifteen  furnaces, 
averaging  90  tons  each  per  week,  will  produce  1350  tons  of  cast  iron  with 
a  consumption  of  50  cwt.  of  coal  per  ton  of  iron,  inclusive  of  calcining — 
say  3375  tons  of  coal  to  furnaces  and  calcining,  and  to  the  blowing  engines 
10  cwt.  of  coal  per  ton  of  iron,  or  675  tons,  If  the  furnaces  make  1350 
tons  of  cast  iron,  100  tons  may  be  deducted  for  ballast  iron.  Then  refining 
1250  tons,  at  22  cwt.  1  qr.  of  pig  to  the  ton  of  refined  iron,  will  produce 
1110  tons  refined  metal,  with  a  consumption  of  9  cwt.  per  ton,  or  about 
500  tons  coal  weekly  for  the  refineries.  1110  tons  refined  metal  will  yield 
of  puddled  iron,  at  21  cwt.  per  ton  of  the  metal,  and  18  cwt.  of  coal  per 
ton  of  iron,  1045  tons,  with  940  tons  of  coal;  and  then  the  rolling-mills, 
at  22  L  cwt.  of  puddled  iron  and  20  cwt.  of  coal  per  ton,  will  produce  915 
tons  of  merchant  bars,  or  what  is  called  No.  2.  iron,  with  a  consumption 
of  915  tons  of  coal.”  —  Cambrian. 

The  town  of  Merthyr  is  situated  near  the  n.  boundary  of  Glamor¬ 
ganshire,  at  the  head  of  the  vale  of  TafF,  celebrated  for  its  rich  and  thick 
veins  of  coal,  as  well  as  for  its  romantic  beauty.  Its  distance  from  the 
seaport  of  Cardiff  is  about  24  m.,  and  the  communication  with  the  port 
has  hitherto  been  solely  by  means  of  the  Glamorganshire  canal,  which 
traverses  the  valley  by  the  assistance  of  numerous  locks,  and  terminates  in  a 
floating  harbour,  opening  into  Penarth  Roads.  This  port  has  been  much 
altered,  on  a  scale  of  great  magnificence,  at  the  expense  of  the  Marquess 
of  Bute,  and  promises  to  furnish  accommodations  for  shipping  of  large  ton¬ 
nage,  unequalled  by  any  in  the  Bristol  Channel.  The  traffic  between 
these  points  and  the  collieries  branching  out  of  the  vale  of  Taff,  as  proved 
before  the  parliamentary  committee,  amply  justified  an  application  for 
powers  to  construct  the  railway  now  in  progress  :  it  being  proved  to  de¬ 
monstration  that  the  canal  was  utterly  inefficient  for  the  purposes  of  tran¬ 
sit,  and  would  necessarily  become  still  more  unequal  to  the  trade,  as  it 
went  on  annually  increasing. 

The  Taff  Vale  railway  is  making  rapid  progress  under  the  able  manage¬ 
ment  of  Mr.  George  Bush,  the  company’s  engineer,  who  expects  to  have  a 
large  portion  of  the  line  in  working  order  by  the  end  of  the  year.  We  are 
informed  that  the  calls  on  the  shares  are  remarkably  well  paid  up,  551.  per 
share  having  been  paid  on  the  100/.  share,  and  that  the  shares  are,  for  the 
most  part,  held  by  very  substantial  parties.  The  sum  of  100,000/.  is  now- 
raising  by  debentures,  according  to  the  provisions  of  the  act,  and  of  these 
more  than  two  thirds  are  already  taken  up,  though  the  issue  has  com¬ 
menced  very  recently. 

The  stratum  of  coal  is  of  excellent  quality  accompanied  by  parallel  veins 
of  argillaceous  iron-ore,  which  penetrate  the  mountains  to  a  great  depth, 
and  yield  upon  an  average  about  35  parts  of  metal  out  of  100  :  the  mines 
are  worked  by  levels.  The  Canal  from  Merthyr  Tydvil  to  Cardiff,  better 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Glamorganshire  canal,  was  projected  originally 
by  Mr.  Homfray,  while  connected  with  the  Pen-y-Darren  iron-works. 
There  are  several  tramroads  from  the  iron-works,  mines,  and  collieries 
in  this  rich  mineral  district.  Since  the  last  return,  a  petition  addressed 
to  Parliament  for  an  extension  of  the  representative  franchise  to  this 
place,  states  upon  oath  the  number  of  inhabitants  to  be  26,550.  The 
markets  are  held  on  Wednesday  and  Friday.  A  fair  for  cattle  is  held 


MERTHYR  rvHVIL. 


421 


annually  on  May  14th;  and  at  a  place  called  Twyn-y-Waun,  on  a 
neighbouring  hill  within  the  limits  of  the  parish^  are  also  fairs  on  th^ 
first  Monday  in  July,  and  the  first  Monday  in  August,  for  cattle.  Merthyr 
Tydvil  has,  with  the  parish  of  Aberdare,  and  the  village  of  Coedycymmer, 
in  the  adjoining  parish  of  Vaynor,  county  of  Brecknock,  been  constituted 
a  borough  by  the  late  act  for  amending  the  representation  of  the  people, 
with  the  privilege  of  returning  one  member  to  Parliament.  It  has  also 
been  made  a  polling  place  in  the  election  of  knights  for  the  shire.  The 
parish,  together  with  the  parishes  of  Aberdare  and  Gellygaer,  is  under  the 
superintendence  of  a  stipendiary  police  magistrate,  appointed  by  act  of 
parhament  of  the  10th  of  George  IV.,  with  a  salary  of  600l.  per  annum, 
one  half  of  which  is  under  the  provisions  of  that  act  levied  on  the  several 
furnaces  in  the  three  parishes,  and  the  other  half  by  a  rate  on  the  inhabitants 
of  the  parish  of  Merthyr  Tydvil  alone.  The  petty  Sessions  for  the 
upper  division  of  the  hundred  of  Caerphilly  are  held  in  the  town.  A 
Court  of  requests  for  the  recovery  of  debts  not  exceeding  5L,  under 
an  act  obtained  in  the  49th  George  III.,  is  held  in  the  town,  on  the 
second  Thursday  in  every  month,  before  an  unlimited  number  of  com¬ 
missioners,  of  whom,  in  giving  judgment,  the  senior  commissioner  present 
has  the  casting  vote.  Its  jurisdiction  extends  over  the  parishes  of  Aberdare, 
Gellygaer,  Llanwonno,  Merthyr  Tydvil,  and  Ystradd-yvodog,  in  the  county 
of  Glamorgan  ;  the  parishes  of  Llangynider,  Penderin,  and  Vaino,  in  the 
county  of  Brecknock  and  parish  of  Bedwelty,  Monmouthshire. 

A  Philosophical  society,  and  several  Book-clubs  are  established.  The  old 
Church  has  been  taken  down,  and  a  new  one  recently  built.  The 
living  is  a  rectory ;  Marquess  of  Bute,  patron.  Here  are  also  a  chapel 
of  ease,  several  dissenting  chapels,  and  a  theatre.  Merthyr  contains 
three  market  places,  all  of  which  are  well  supplied  twice  a  week.  The 
state  of  education  is  advancing  rapidly  in  this  neighbourhood ;  a  very 
great  proportion  of  the  young  can  read,  and  many  of  them  can  write.  On 
anniversary  days,  those  who  belong  to  Sunday  schools  walk  in  procession  to 
the  number  of  5000  to  6000.  The  members  of  the  temperance  societies 
are  very  numerous,  and  also  the  odd  fellows,  both  of  which  fraternities 
delight  in  walking  as  often  as  possible  in  public  procession,  on  which  occa¬ 
sions  they  appear  quite  as  respectable  as  we  see  them  on  festival  days  in 
England.  In  the  houses  of  the  workmen  there  is  a  marked  improvement ; 
most  of  them  have  good  oak  chests  of  drawers,  bright  as  silver,  cupboards, 
with  a  display  of  fancy  china  cups  and  glasses ;  some  of  tbe  younger  women 
have  a  veneered  work-box  ;  —and  all  these  little  things  display  an  attention 
to  the  lesser  comforts  and  luxuries  of  life,  of  which,  a  few  years  ago,  they 
had  no  idea.  On  the  whole,  I  should  say  there  is  a  decided  improvement 
in  the  general  condition  and  circumstances  of  our  workmen ;  but  you  must 
bear  in  mind  that  these  are  very  flourishing  times. 

About  3  m.  N.  of  Merthyr  Tydvil,  i  m.  out  of  the  old  road,  over  the 
mountains  to  Brecon,  is  the  very  ancient  castle  of  Morlais,  upon  the  top  of 
a  mountain,  much  dismantled  and  spread  about.  This  fortress  is  reported 
to  have  been  the  seat  of  the  kings  of  Brecon,  and  was  demolished  by  the 
parliamentary  army  in  the  17th  century.  [See  Pont-y-Prydd.] 

The  principal  Inns  are  the  Castle  Hotel,  and  Bush. 

A  direction  from  Newbridge  may  be  taken  to  Brecon,  through  the 
parish  of  Ystrad-y-fodwg  to  Pont-nedd-Fychan.  The  scenery  from 
the  bridge  which  crosses  the  Rontha  Fawr  at  its  confluence  with  the  TafF, 
up  to  the  salmon-leap,  distant  2  m.,  is  highly  interesting,  singular,  and  im¬ 
pressive.  About  ^  m.  before  you  arrive  at  it  there  is  a  tremendous  alpine 


422 


MERTHFR  TYDVIL. 


bridge.  For  about  1 1  m.  above  the  waterfall;,  the  Rontha  Fawr  becomes 
broad  and  shallow.  Tlie  road  on  the  r.  bank  only  leads  to  some  coal-pits^ 
the  traveller  to  pursue  his  way  to  Ystrad-y-fodwg,  is  obliged  to  ford  at 
this  place.  A  rugged  road  then  continues  on  the  1.  side  of  the  river.  At 
the  distance  of  1  m.  there  is  a  second  fall  in  the  river.  i  m,  further  is  a 
third  fallj  larger  and  more  grand  than  the  former.  Presently  a  new  scene 
is  presented^  by  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers  Rontha  Fawr  and  Rontha 
Fychan.  There  is  a  bridge  over  the  Rontha  Fawr  highly  ornamental  to  the 
prospect.  From  this  spot  the  road  turns  to  the  1.  up  a  steep  till  you  gain 
the  direct  road  from  Llantrissaint  through  these  wilds ;  on  which  turn 
due  N.,  when  the  mountain  scenery  of  Ystrad-y-fodwg  breaks  upon  the 
view.  There  is  here  a  gate/’  says  Mr.  Malkin,  which  marks  the  en¬ 
trance  of  the  parish  ;  and  the  way  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  rocky  ridge,  grand 
in  its  elevation,  and  most  whimsical  in  the  eccentricity  of  its  shapes. 
Towers  of  limestone  occasionally  start  up,  which  overhang  the  road,  while 
a  pleasing,  though  not  rich,  valley  on  the  1.  softens  the  general  dreariness. 
The  descent  down  a  long  hill  brings  the  traveller  to  a  little  brook,  abounding 
wdth  fish,  which  joins  the  Rontha  Fawr,  a  little  way  to  the  e.  ;  and  at  a 
very  short  distance  from  the  brook,  after  descending  another  hill,  you  cross 
a  bridge  over  that  river,  which  has  disappeared  since  its  junction  with  the 
Rontha  Fach  ;  but  from  this  place  the  sound  of  it  is  never  lost,  though 
frequently  out  of  sight,  till  you  arrive  close  by  its  source  at  the  top  of  the 
parish,  distant  10  m.  Hereabouts,  and  for  some  miles  to  come,  there  is  a 
degree  of  luxuriance  in  the  valley,  infinitely  beyond  what  my  entrance  on 
the  district  led  me  to  expect.”  The  next  object  of  interest  is  a  substantial 
farm-house,  called  Llwyn-y-Pia,  standing  in  a  most  pleasing  solitude, 
where  is  an  uncommon  tall  and  large  oak.  A  second  bridge  over  the  Rontha, 
on  the  other  side  of  which  the  road  winds  to  the  1.,  furnishes  a  most  inter¬ 
esting  point  of  view.  The  peasantry  here  are  wretchedly  accommodated. 
About  1  m.  from  the  bridge  is  the  miserable  church  of  Ystrad-y-fodwg. 
There  is  no  collected  village  in  the  parish,  nor  any  public  resting-place  for 
man  or  horse.  Passing  the  church,  the  fields  and  meadows  become  nar¬ 
rower  and  less  fertile  ;  the  rocks  and  hills  bolder  and  more  fantastic.  The 
front  of  this  narrowing  dell  is  filled  up  by  a  single  cliff,  high  and  broad  at 
the  top.  Instead  of  passing  in  front  of  this  eminence,  or  crossing  the  river, 
the  traveller  who  can  enjoy  the  grandeur  of  scenery,  as  seen  from  elevated 
stations,  should  pursue  a  track  to  the  r.  scarcely  visible.  This  mountain 
being  the  highest  in  Glamorganshire,  the  views  on  the  ascent  and  from 
the  summit  cannot  fail  to  repay  the  toil.” 

The  upper  part  of  Ystrad-y-fodwg  parish  is  as  untamely  wild,”  says 
Mr.  Malkin,  as  any  thing  which  can  be  conceived  ;  and  the  few  who 
have  taken  the  pains  to  explore  the  scattered  magnificence  of  S.  lYales, 
agree  in  recommending  this  untried  route  to  the  English  traveller,  as  one  of 
the  most  curious  and  striking  in  the  Principality,  not  excepting  the  more 
known  and  frequented  tour  of  the  n.  counties.  This  parish  exhibits^such 
scenes  of  untouched  nature  as  the  imagination  would  find  it  difficul  to 
surpass  ;  and  yet  the  existence  of  the  place  is  scarcely  known  to  the  English 
traveller.  Hanging  over  the  steep  descent,  you  have  immediately  below 
you  Llyn-fawr,  the  largest  lake  in  Glamorganshire.  It  has  abundance  of 
fish,  and  qualities  of  wild  fowl.  Upon  the  lofty  and  perpendicular  crag 
above  the  lake  called  Craig-y- Llyn-fawr,  there  are  two  rude  conical  pillars 
of  stone,  in  form  of  a  truncated  stone,  rising  out  of  a  large  earn  or  heap  of 
stones.  A  stranger  has  considerable  difficulty  in  descending  a  narrow  path, 
worn  upon  the  side  of  an  almost  perpendicular  declivity.  It  happened  that 


MERTHYR  TYDVIL. 


423 


we  saw  two  or  three  country  people  on  their  little  mountain  horses^  carrying 
lime  :  their  courtesy  was  signally  displayed  in  riding  on  the  very  edge  of 
the  precipice  (where  one  false  step  might  have  precipitated  them  to  the 
bottom)^  that  they  might  not  interfere  with  our  more  cautious  progress. 
The  way  after  descending  the  mountain  is  rough  and  dreary_,  over  barren 
and  unprofitable  land.”  If  you  cannot  obtain  a  guide  to  conduct  you  over 
the  30m.  route  described  by  Mr.  Malkin,  pursue  the  road  through  Aberdare 
about  20  m.  Take  the  horse  track  upon  the  r.  bank  of  the  Cumno,  and 
not  the  new  turnpike-road.  Just  above  Pont-Nedd-Fychan  there  is  a 
fine  view  of  the  rich  and  beautiful  vale  of  Neath. 

The  OLD  ROAD  from  Merthyr  Tydvil  to  Brecon  may  be  pursued  from 
Morlais  Castell,  near  Geli-Fallog,  over  the  mountains.  Tuff  Fychan 
river,  or  Little  Taff,”  running  on  the  1.  The  winding  down  the  hill 
leads  the  traveller  to  Pont-sticill,  a  bridge  of  one  arch,  crossing  Taff 
Fychan,  after  which  the  mountain  on  the  1.  is  to  be  climbed.  The  two 
summits  of  Mount  Denny  or  Cadair  Arthur,  one  of  the  Brecon  beacons, 
enveloped  in  clouds,  communicate  much  grandeur  to  the  prospect.  Mr. 
Malkin  says  that  these  peaks  may  almost  be  said  to  personify  ubiquity, 
as  they  may  be  seen  from  the  Blorenge,  from  Breiddin  and  the  Glees.  A 
green  lane  to  the  1.  leads  again  to  the  river  side,  here  crossed  by  a  bridge 
of  one  long  narrow  trunk.  Cupel  Glyn  eollwng  is  near  this  spot.  Hence 
the  path  soon  reaches  the  foot  of  Mount  Denny,  and  presents  a  laborious 
ascent.  A  stone  bridge  is  thrown  across  Taff  Fychan;  the  road  then  lies 
up  the  mountain  to  the  r.  close  by  the  river,  now  a  trickling  rill,  passing 
by  its  source.  The  road  on  the  e.  side  of  the  mountain  lies  between  the 
two  perpendicular  and  inaccessible  peaks.  At  the  bottom,  to  the  n.  e.,  is  a 
deep  black  pool.  In  the  vale  below  this  elevation,  at  a  spot  called  Ban- 
uwch-denni,  or  Cadair  Arthur,  resided  Doctor  John  Reece  Davis,  a  learned 
man  in  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  He  published,  in  1592,  a  curious 
and  learned  Latin- Welsh  Grammar,  in  folio.  From  this  place  to  Brecon 
the  country  is  thinly  populated.  Cantref,  a  small  collection  of  houses,  is 
embosomed  in  wood,  and  enriched  with  verdant  meadows,  sloping  to  a 
small  brook.  The  spot  is  overhung  by  a  part  of  Mount  Denny,  over 
shadowing  this  peaceful  retreat.  The  descent  continues  almost  as  far  as 
St.  David’s,  a  kind  of  suburb  to  Brecon,  containing  a  substantial  church. 

The  New  Turnpike-road  to  Merthyr  Tydvil  presents  a  succes¬ 
sion  of  varied  and  interesting  scenery.  The  distances  are  Cefn-coed-cymmcr, 
2a  m. ;  Garawen,  2j  m.  ;  cross  Carr  Brook,  1  m. ;  cross  the  Llysenog 
river,  1  m.;  Capel-nant-dii,  ^  m.  ;  c,yo&'&  Nant-du  Brook,  l  ^m.  The  last 
of  these  tributary  streams  to  the  Taff  Fawr,  is  called  Crew,  1  ^  m. ;  Bryn- 
du,  2  m. ;  cross  the  Tarell  river,  4  m.;  Brecon,  4  m. 

Upon  a  lofty  hill  above  the  Taff,  not  far  from  Merthyr  Tydvil,  stand 
the  remains  of  Castell  Sengennith.  On  the  n.  and  w.  it  is  defended  by 
the  steep  escarpment  of  the  elevated  spot  on  which  it  stands,  and  the  deep 
ravine  through  which  flows  the  lesser  Taff ;  and  on  the  s,  and  e.  sides  by 
a  deep  excavation  cut  in  the  native  rocks ;  a  mode  of  defence  peculiar  to 
Roman  and  British  fortifications.  The  structure  appears  irregular,  ap¬ 
proaching  to  a  pentagonal  shape.  Some  walls,  intersecting  each  other  at 
right  angles,  form  the  advanced  works  without  the  trench.  The  whole 
covered  about  an  acre  of  ground.  Beneath  the  ruins,  almost  buried,  is  a 
large  circular  Gothic  room,  about  SO  ft.  in  diameter,  with  12  flat  arches  ; 
the  roof  is  supported  by  an  umbilical  pillar,  similar  to  the  Chapter  House 
at  Margara.  From  this  circumstance  it  is  supposed  to  be  of  Norman  origin. 

Angling  Stations. —  Glyn- Conan,  on  the  Taff,  7^  ni.,  salmon,  sewin,  and 

e  e  4 


424 


MILFORD. 


trout ;  Llanfaben,  9  between  the  Taff  and  Rumney.  The  vicinity  of 
Merthyr  Tydvil  has  greatly  contributed  to  render  certain  portions  of  the 
romantic  stream  of  the  Taff  unworthy  of  the  angler’s  attention. 

To  Brecon,  18  miles.  Malkin  ;  Manby.  To  Pont-y-Prydd,  12  miles.  Skrine. 

Caerphilly  Castle,  18  miles.  Evans.  Cardiff,  24  miles. 

Pont-Nedd  Fychan,  14  miles. 


MILFORD. 

From  Pembroke,  7  m.  Barber;  Evans ;  Skrine.  I  From  St.  David’s,  25  miles.  Fenton. 

Haverfordwest,  8  miles.  Malkin.  | 

MILFORD  is  a  newly  created  borough^  sea-port,  and  town,  of  very 
recent  origin,  in  the  hundred  of  Rhos,  Pembrokeshire.  It  is  thought  to 
derive  its  appellation  from  a  stream  which  turned  a  mill,  about  a  mile 
distant  from  the  town,  over  which  was  a  ford  before  the  erection  of  a 
bridge.  In  the  year  1784,  the  Hon.  Charles  Francis  Greville,  struck  with 
the  extent  and  security  of  the  Haven  with  its  great  commercial  advantages, 
conceived  the  plan  of  erecting  a  new  town,  and  proceeded  to  put  it  into 
execution  with  great  spirit.  These  sanguine  expectations  were  not,  however, 
realised,  and  instead  of  growing  into  a  city,  it  became  a  quiet,  commonplace 
little  town.  It  has,  however,  retained  its  distinction  as  the  station  for  the  post- 
office  packets  to  Waterford.  Milford  is  very  agreeably  situated  ;  the  principal 
range  of  buildings  occupies  an  elevated  terrace,  the  haven  being  in  front. 
The  ground  for  building  is  let  on  life-leases,  and  laid  out  according  to  a 
regular  plan,  which  arranges  that  the  streets  shall  run  from  e.  to  w.  parallel 
to  each  other,  and  be  intersected  by  others  at  right  angles.  Genteel  re¬ 
sidences  may  be  had  here  at  from  14/.  to  20/.  per  annum,  containing 
dining,  drawing,  and  breakfast-rooms,  seven  or  eight  bed-rooms,  garden, 
kitchen,  and  stabling.  Poor-rates  are  very  low.  There  are  several  schools 
in  the  neighbourhood ;  good  instructions  in  music,  3s.  per  lesson,  in 
dancing  2^.  The  climate  is  nearly  20  degrees  milder  than  in  any  part  of 
England.  The  Church,  a  chapel  of  ease,  was  erected  chiefly  at  the  expense 
of  the  Hon.  Mr.  Greville,  in  1808.  It  is  an  elegant  structure,  consisting 
of  a  nave  and  chancel,  with  a  vaulted  groined  roof  and  side  aisles,  se¬ 
parated  from  the  nave  by  two  rows  of  columns.  The  windows  are  orna¬ 
mented  with  painted  glass.  A  neat  gallery  contains  a  barrel  organ.  A 
vase  of  red  porphyry  brought  from  Egypt  by  Dr.  Pococke,  with  the  top¬ 
gallant-mast  of  L’Orient,  which  bore  the  French  admiral’s  flag,  and  was 
blown  up  at  the  battle  of  Aboukir ;  the  latter  is  intended  to  commemorate 
the  1st  of  August,  and  the  former  is  a  cenotaph  to  Lord  Nelson.  An 
elegant  vase  of  Derbyshire  marble  forms  the  baptismal  font.  The  church 
is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  entered  by  handsome  iron  gates,  between  free¬ 
stone  pillars.  A  little  to  the  e.  are  the  desecrated  remains  of  the  old  Chapel 
of  St.  Catherine,  now  appropriated  to  the  purposes  of  a  powder  magazine. 
The  Hotel  is  a  spacious  building,  affording  every  accommodation  for 
passengers  to  and  from  Waterford.  The  Custom  House  is  neat  and  con¬ 
venient.  The  inns,  shops,  stores,  and  public  buildings  are  confined  to  the 
lowest  streets.  The  markets  are  held  on  Tuesday  and  Saturday  ;  there 
are  no  fairs.  To  this  place  attach  the  advantages  of  mail  coaches,  packets 
to  Ireland,  and  a  commercial  intercourse  with  the  remotest  parts  of  the 
globe.  For  these  Pembrokeshire  is  greatly  indebted  to  the  Hon.  Mr. 
Greville,  who,  in  consequence  of  an  act  of  parliament  (which  enabled  his 
uncle  Sir  Wm.  Hamilton,  lord  of  the  manors  of  Hubberstone  and  Pill,  to 


MILFORD. 


425 


form  quays,  make  roads,  regulate  the  police,  &c.),  he  was,  in  1790? 
trusted  with  the  sole  guardianship  of  the  infant  establishment.  A  Dock¬ 
yard  was  formed  here  after  a  plan  by  Lord  Spencer.  In  this  yard 
Mr.  Barrallier  superintended  the  building  of  three  king’s  ships,  i.  e.  the 
Nautilus,  the  Lavinia,  and  the  Milford  of  74  guns.  This  dock  is  unfor¬ 
tunately  removed  to  Pater  Church,  or  Pembroke  Dock.  This  arrangement 
greatly  depopulated  the  place.  The  jurisdiction  of  the  port  extends  to 
the  whole  haven  and  along  the  entire  coast  from  near  Laugharne,  in  Car¬ 
marthenshire,  to  St.  David’s  Head.  It  is  under  the  control  of  a  lord 
high  admiral  and  a  vice-admiral  of  the  port,  a  harbour-master,  a  super¬ 
intendent  of  quarantine,  and  a  collector  of  the  customs,  an  agent  for  the 
post-office  packets,  and  an  agent  for  Lloyd’s,  who  is  likewise  a  consul  for 
foreign  nations,  are  also  resident  in  the  town.  Some  good  quays  have 
been  constructed,  and  there  are  extensive  warehouses  for  bonding  stores, 
and  two  bonding  yards  for  timber.  Milford  has  been  recently  made  a 
contributary  borough  to  Pembroke  in  returning  one  member  to  Parliament.” 
(^Lewis.') 

The  whale-fishery  was  prosecuted  with  great  success  from  Milford,  but 
has  been  entirely  discontinued.  The  Observatory  is  furnished  with  a  most 
extensive  apparatus  of  instruments  ;  it  was  formerly  superintended  by  Mr. 
Firminger,  who  was  eight  years  sole  assistant  to  Dr.  Maskelyne,  and  now 
under  the  direction  of  the  astronomer  royal  of  Greenwich.  Two  batteries 
have  been  erected  with  seven  guns  each.  Lord  Cawdor  gave  every  1st  of 
August,  a  cup  value  25/.  or  30/.  as  a  prize  to  the  winner  in  a  regatta.  On  the 
w.  side  of  Priory  Pill,  stands  the  old  village  of  Hakin  ;  the  term  signifies  a 
strand.  The  parish  church  of  Milford  is  situated  at  Hubberstone,  between 
which  place  and  Hakin  stands  the  Observatory,  contiguous  to  which  is  the 
Mathematical  School.  The  Society  of  Friends  from  the  island  of  Nantucket, 
who  settled  here  in  consequence  of  an  invitation  from  Mr.  Greville,  proved  a 
valuable  accession  to  his  new  colony.  Mr.  Rotch,  the  principal  of  the  new 
settlers  from  America,  resided  at  Castle  Hall,  built  and  once  inhabited  by 
Governor  Holwell,  who  survived  a  wretched  incarceration  at  Calcutta.  He 
published  a  circumstantial  detail  of  that  scene  of  horror.  The  governor 
quitted  Castle  Hall  some  time  before  his  death  ;  it  was  afterwards  pur¬ 
chased  by  a  wine-merchant  of  Haverfordwest,  who  sold  it  to  Mr.  Rotch. 
To  the  N.  of  this  mansion  upon  a  height  above  Prix  Pill,  stands  Castle  Pill. 
During  the  wars  in  l644,  it  was  considered  a  very  strong  post,  containing  a 
mixture  of  ancient  earth-works  improved  by  later  masonry,  but  it  now 
exhibits  little  of  its  former  importance. 

This  noble  Harbour,  immortalised  by  the  strains  of  our  great  dramatic 
poet,  is  of  an  oblong  figure,  about  10  m.  in  length,  and  from  1  to  2  in  width. 
Admiral  Nelson  considered  this  haven  the  finest  and  most  extensive  har¬ 
bour  in  the  known  world,  and  pronounced  it  capable  of  floating  more  than 
the  whole  navy  of  England  within  its  limits,  with  perfect  safety.  When 
the  late  Vice  Admiral  Sir  C.  Paget,  was  in  command  of  the  squadron 
which  conducted  his  late  Majesty  George  IV.  on  his  way  from  Dublin  in 
1821,  he  was  obliged  to  put  into  this  haven,  after  two  ineffectual  attempts 
to  proceed  round  the  Land’s  End.  It  contains  5  bays,  10  creeks,  and 
13  roads.  Two  forts,  erected  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  on  the  opposite 
points  of  the  entrance,  called  Angle  and  Dale  Block- houses,  are  now 
neglected.  Another  attempt  to  fortify  Milford  Harbour  was  made  in  1757? 
when  20,000/.  was  granted  for  the  erection  of  batteries.  The  whole  of 
this  sum  was  expended  at  P eter stone ;  it  was,  however,  discovered  that 
this  fort  could  not  prevent  a  fleet  of  men  of  war  from  anchoring  at  Dale 


426 


MILFORD. 


Road,  Angle,  or  Hubberstone,  that  both  this  fort  and  the  intended  dock¬ 
yards  are  commanded  by  the  hills  which  overhang  them ;  it  was  admitted 
also  that  a  few  men,  landing  any  where  below,  might,  by  gaining  these 
heights,  take  the  fort  without  any  possibility  of  resistance.  As  a  pic¬ 
turesque  object,  Milford  derives  its  chief  interest  from  its  noble  sheet  of 
water  and  peaceable  shores  rising  in  gentle  elevations  ;  but  it  is  unclothed 
with  wood,  and  unbroken  into  crags  and  precipices.  To  the  s.  the  main 
haven  spreads  into  a  spacious  reach,  having  the  appearance  of  a  finely- 
bounded  lake.  On  the  e.  is  Pria?  Pill,  and  on  the  w.  Priory  Pill,  or  es¬ 
tuary.  The  shores  abound  with  limestone,  which,  affording  a  rich  manure 
(with  coals  and  culm),  is  conveyed  by  water  over  a  portion  of  the  county. 
In  the  shores  of  the  haven  also,  near  its  junction  with  the  open  sea,  are 
many  veins  of  copper  ore,  some  of  which  are  conjectured  to  be  very  rich  ; 
but  none  have  been  explored  with  perseverance.  The  finest  pickled  oysters 
are  sent  from  this  port. 

The  picturesque  beauties  of  Milford  Haven  may  be  seen  to  the  greatest 
advantage  by  taking  a  boat  to  Pembroke.  Proceeding  up  the  harbour, 
this  magnificent  sheet  of  water  is  forked  by  a  peninsula  in  front.  This 
divides  the  great  reach  up  to  Burton  Ferry  from  Down  Pool,  and  forms  an 
interesting  approach  to  Pembroke. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  haven  on  Angle  Point,  is  a  poor  hamlet  where 
are  indifferent  accommodations  for  numerous  passengers  to  and  from 
Ireland.  Here  are  the  ruins  of  a  small  castle  and  nunnery  ;  and  on  the 
opposite  point  of  St.  Ann’s  Head,  a  small  lighthouse  and  block-house. 
About  the  centre  of  the  w.  side  of  the  haven,  is  the  small  village  of  Hub- 
herstone  Haken,  forming,  with  the  opposite  shore  of  the  creek,  what  is 
termed  the  Port  of  Milford. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  haven  from  Pembroke  is  Nayland,  where 
sugars  are  discharged,  and  pay  duty  at  the  custom-house,  Pembroke. 
Here  are  also  some  considerable  salt  works. 

Pyle  Priory  is  situated  in  an  extremely  agreeable  spot,  near  one  of  the 
creeks  which  branch  into  the  channel,  about  1  m.  on  the  north  of  Milford 
Haven.  It  was  founded  about  the  year  1200,  by  Adam  de  Rupe,  Avho 
endowed  it  with  considerable  portions  of  land,  which  were  confirmed  by 
charter  in  the  25th  of  Edward  III.  Of  this  structure  little  now  remains 
except  the  gatehouse  and  some  scattered  mural  fragments.  Several  cot¬ 
tages  attach  to  the  original  building,  erected  fronr  its  original  materials. 
Grose  gives  a  view  of  this  ruin  from  the  n.  side,  under  the  appellation  of 

Hubberstone  Priory.”  It  is  called  by  the  native  inhabitants,  The 
Priory.”  Some  have  entitled  it  ‘‘  the  Priory  of  Prendergast.”  The  village 
of  Pyle,  through  which  now  runs  the  turnpike-road  from  Cardiff  to 
Swansea,  is  situated  to  the  e.  on  the  other  side  of  the  creek.  Near  the 
church  is  Collwyn  Well,  long  celebrated  for  its  medicinal  properties.  Pren¬ 
dergast  is  distant  I  m.  s.  On  the  n.  several  ranges  of  hills  afford  abundance 
of  wood  and  pasturage. 

An  excursion  up  the  Harbour  leads  to  a  fork  of  land  formed  by  the 
confluence  of  the  two  rivers  Cleddy  and  Cleddeu  ;  the  former  takes  a  n.  w., 
the  latter  a  n.e.  direction.  On  this  point  is  Bose  Castle,  an  ancient  seat 
of  the  Owens  ;  and  higher  up,  on  the  estuary  of  the  Cleddeu,  stands 
Picton  Castle,  once  the  seat  of  Lord  IMilford,  now  the  residence  of  Richard 
Bulkeley  P.  Phillips,  Esq.,  constructed  in  the  ancient  style  of  grandeur, 
mingled  with  distorted  modern  alterations,  commanding  a  fine  view  towards 
Landshipping,  where  the  two  rivers  meet  and  jointly  form  Milford  Haven. 
The  plantations  around  are  extensive  and  flourishing.  The  elegant  grounds 


MILFORD. 


427 


of  Slebech  unite  uitli  those  of  Ficton  Castle,  This  elegant_,  substantial, 
and  comparatively  modern  mansion  was  purchased  by  the  late  Nathaniel 
Phillips,  Esq.,  and  is  now  the  property  of  the  Baron  de  Rutzen  by  mar¬ 
riage  with  his  daughter  and  heiress,  Slebech  was  an  ancient  commandery 
of  the  knights  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem.  This  structure  is  quadrangular, 
surrounded  by  plantations,  and  beautifully  situated  on  the  Cleddeu.  High- 
Toch-Wood  fringes  the  banks  of  this  broad  river  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  Here  is  one  of  the  best  modern  houses  in  S.  W ales ;  it  was  erected 
by  the  late  Mr.  Barlowe. 

After  visiting  these  elegant  and  celebrated  retirements,  cross  the  ferry, 
and  pursue  a  path  through  a  very  pleasant  country  by  Cresselly  em¬ 
bosomed  in  a  luxuriant  plantation  of  firs,  to  Carew.  Milford  appears  in¬ 
expressibly  beautiful  from  this  vicinity,  not  only  in  itself,  but  in  those 
numerous  branches  of  the  haven  which  diverge  and  intersect  the  country. 
To  this  circumstance,  Lawrenny  owes  a  large  portion  of  its  beauty.  On 
one  of  these  arms,  in  a  rich  and  beautiful  country,  is  situated  the  noble 
Castle  of  Caj'ew.  Its  ruins  are  among  the  most  sumptuous  and  interesting 
in  the  Principality.  The  walls  of  several  of  the  princely  apartments  and 
chapel  are  still  remaining,  replete  with  elegant  detail.  From  the  towers  an 
extensive  and  pleasing  prospect  is  obtained  of  the  haven  and  surrounding 
country,  which  abounds  with  interesting  scenery,  enlivened  by  numerous 
seats  of  the  neighbouring  gentry.  The  walls  are  very  thick  and  con¬ 
structed  of  solid  masonry.  The  village  of  Carew  is  very  poor.  By  the 
road-side  is  an  embellished  cross,  14  ft.  high.  Pembroke,  4  m. 

On  the  road  to  Haverfordwest  is  a  ferry  over  the  principal  arm  of 
this  harbour.  Proceeding  along  a  high  bank  of  the  haven,  its  expansive 
surface  and  grand  undulating  shores  compose  a  striking  view.  About 
half  way  to  Haverfordwest  a  new  scene  opens,  consisting  of  a  wide  lux¬ 
uriant  valley,  watered  by  a  large  arm  of  Milford  Haven.  The  view  is 
uncommonly  rich  and  extensive.  The  town  is  approached  by  a  laborious 
ascent.  In  pursuit  of  Haverfordwest,  Mr.  Skrine  visited  Lawrenny,  Slebech, 
and  Picton  Castle. 

On  the  way  to  Haverford,  is  Stainton,  once  the  villa  of  Adam  de 
Stainton.  In  the  civil  wars  the  steeple  of  Stainton  Church  was  garrisoned 
with  20  musketeers,  and  some  horsemen  were  stationed  to  cut  off  the 
communication  between  the  Pillfort  and  the  town  of  Haverfordwest. 
Sir  William  Jones  was  a  scholar  at  this  place.  Proceed  to  Rhos  Market,  a 
village  but  of  mean  appearance,  lying  upon  the  edge  of  a  cheerful,  well- 
wooded  vale,  watered  by  a  small  stream.  Here  Sir  Richard  W alter  pos¬ 
sessed  a  mansion,  the  remains  of  which  indicate  its  former  importance. 
His  daughter.  Miss  Lucy  Walter,  resided  here ;  she  was  mother  to  the 
unfortunate  Duke  of  Monmouth.  Dr.  Zachary  Williams  was  a  native  of 
this  place.  He  was  fatlier  to  the  blind  lady  of  that  name  who  found  a 
home  under  Dr.  Johnson’s  roof.  Hence  take  the  road  leading  to  Johnston, 
the  property  of  Lord  Kensington  and  residence  of  Thomas  Bowen,  Esq. 
The  late  lord  was  an  ardent  sportsman,  and  is  said  to  have  vaulted  into  his 
saddle,  without  assistance,  at  the  age  of  86.  He  sat  in  parliament  for  Ha¬ 
verfordwest  10  or  11  years.  5  m.  further  is  Haverfordwest,  Maudlin's 
Bridge  and  Portefield.  On  the  r.,  after  passing  the  bridge,  there  are  some 
ruins,  now  nearly  concealed  by  cottages.  To  the  1.  a  little  way  up  the 
hollow,  at  the  foot  of  a  common,  is  the  noted  Caradog’s  Well.  This  formed 
an  extreme  limit  of  the  province  assigned  to  the  Flemings.  The  following 
brief  account  of  the  settlement  of  these  emigrants  conveys  the  substance 
of  all  that  has  been  collected  respecting  them.  Henry  I.,  as  well  as 


428 


MOLD. 


William  his  father,  out  of  respect  to  his  queen  Maud,  who  was  daughter 
of  Baldwin,  Earl  of  Flanders,  having  admitted  into  England  great  numbers 
of  Flemings  who,  by  the  inundations  in  their  own  country,  were  com¬ 
pelled  to  seek  new  habitations,  and  whom  others  followed  in  such  swarms 
as  to  become  burdensome  and  dangerous  to  the  nation,  was  induced  to 
remove  them  from  the  North  of  England,  the  place  of  their  first  footing, 
to  a  part  of  Pembrokeshire  already  taken  possession  of  by  tbe  Normans 
under  Arnulph  de  Montgomery,  about  Pembroke,  Tenby  and  Rhos,  where 
they  could  not  fail  to  prove  a  formidable  accession  to  the  power  already 
employed  to  harass  and  subdue  the  Welsh.”  (^Fenton.^ 

Skokham  Islet  is  about  5  m.  n.w.  of  St.  Anne’s  Plead,  and  distant  2  m 
from  the  nearest  point  of  the  main-land.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  steep  and 
rugged  coast,  containing  about  200  acres  of  land,  part  of  which  is  enclosed 
and  yields  barley,  oats,  and  grass.  There  are  here  several  springs  and  a 
turbary.  The  channel  between  this  island  and  that  of  Gresholme,  extending 
in  a  line  to  St.  Anne’s  Lighthouse,  is  called  the  Wild  Goose  Race. 

Skomar  Isle  is  1-^  m.  n.  of  Skokham,  and  opposite  Hook  Point,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  a  strait  |  m.  wide,  called  Jack's  Sound.  It  con¬ 
tains  700  acres.  Four  thousand  rabbits  are  annually  destroyed  here.  The 
whole  is  let  to  a  resident  tenant. 

To  Haverfordwest,  8  m.  Barber  ;  Evans ;  Skrine.  1  To  Pembroke,  7  miles.  Malkin. 


MOLD. 


From  Caergwrle,  6  miles.  Bingley. 

Ruthin,  10  miles.  Hutton. 

Hawarden,  6  miles.  Warner  ;  Gilpin. 
Chester,  12  m.  Skrine  ;  Pugh’s  1st  visit. 


From  Vale  ofCrucis.  Pennant. 

Back  from  Caergwrle,  6  miles.  Pennant. 
From  Wrexham,  11  miles.  Pugh’s  2d  visit. 


MOLD,  called  in  Welsh  Yr  W yddgrug,  a  lofty  eminence,”  is  a  borough 
and  market-town  in  the  hundred  of  the  same  name,  in  Flintshire,  situated 
upon  a  contracted  yet  fertile  plain,  watered  by  the  Alun,  surrounded  by 
rugged  hills,  and  abounding  with  mineral  treasure.  It  consists  principally 
of  one  long  and  spacious  street,  containing  upwards  of  8000  inhabitants, 
now  the  modern  seat  of  the  Grand  Sessions.  Upon  the  n.  side  of  the  town 
is  a  mount  partly  artificial,  called  by  the  British  Wyddgrug;  by  tbe 
Latins,  Mons  Altus  ;  and  now  Bailey  Hill,  probably  a  corruption  from 
ballium,  being  the  site  of  a  strong  Castle,  once  defended  by  ramparts  and 
urrounded  by  a  deep  foss.  The  only  remains  are  a  few  stones  of  the  keep. 
In  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  it  was  recorded  among  the  possessions  of  Robert 
de  Montalto,  high  steward  of  Chester,  and  was  first  reduced  by  storm  in 
1144,  by  Welsh  forces  under  Ovvain  Gwynedd.  It  subsequently  was 
taken  and  retaken,  destroyed,  rebuilt,  and  destroyed  again.  (See  Wynne’s 
History  of  Wales,  p.  279*)  It  appears  to  have  been  strongly  fortified  by 
great  ditches,  notwithstanding  its  arduous  ascent.  It  is  divided  into  three 
parts  :  the  upper  and  lower  ballium,  and  the  keep  or  donjon.  The  summits 
of  the  two  former  have  been  levelled,  and  are  separated  by  deep  fosses. 
The  keep  was  upon  a  part  greatly  and  artificially  elevated.  The  siege  of 
Mold  is  mentioned  by  the  Welsh  historians  among  tbe  most  splendid 
actions  of  their  annals.  The  bards  of  the  day  made  it  little  inferior  to  the 
siege  of  Troy.  But  all  its  heroic  monuments  and  names  are  lost ;  sic  transit 
mundam.  Sir  Thomas  Mostyn  is  lord  of  the  manor.  The  summit  of 
this  hill  commands  a  short  but  most  exquisite  view  of  the  circumjacent 


MOLD, 


429 

vale  :  and  to  the  w.,  Moel-famma  rises  with  awful  pre-eminence  among  the 
Clwydian  Hills.  On  the  25  th  of  October  1810_,  George  1 1 1,  having  completed 
the  50th  year  of  his  reign^  3000  inhabitants  of  the  counties  of  Flint  and 
Denbigh  assembled  upon  the  summit  of  Moel  Fam'mau,\S^5  ft.,  to  express 
their  loyalty,  by  the  erection  of  a  column  to  commemorate  the  event.  The 
station  commands  a  view  including  Black  Combe  in  Cumberland,  Snow¬ 
don,  Cader  Idris,  the  Wrekin,  and  extends  into  Staffordshire  and  Derby¬ 
shire.  This  erection  of  rough  hewn  stone  was  designed  by  Harrison,  of 
Chester,  already  known  as  the  architect  of  the  Castle,  of  that  city,  and 
other  buildings,  wherein  he  has  displayed  much  classical  taste.  The  first 
stone  was  laid  with  due  formality  by  Lord  Kenyon,  attended  by  most 
of  the  nobility  and  gentry  of  North  Wales. 

The  following  was  written  for  the  purpose  of  inscription  ;  — 

This  stcaie  was  laid  by 
George  Lord  Kenyon, 

Baron  of  Gredington  in  Flintshire, 
he  being  graciously  deputed  by 
His  Royal  Highness,  George,  Prince  of  Wales, 
for  and  in  his  name  to  lay  the  same  ; 
when  the  Right  Hon.  Earl  Grosvenor, 
and  Sir  Watkin  Williams  Wynne,  Bart,, 
were  Lords  Lieutenants  of  the  Counties  of 
Flint  and  Denbigh, 

In  the  Sheriffalty  of 
Richard  Lloyd  of  Fron  Haulog,  and 
Francis  Richard  Price,  of  Bryn-y-Pys, 

Esquires, 

in  the  presence  of  the  nobility  and  gentry, 
and  yeomanry  of  each  county, 
it  being  part  of  the  foundation  of  an 
edifice  to  be  erected  by 
Voluntary  Subscription, 
in  commemoration  of  our 
much  beloved  and  revered  Monarch 
George  the  Third, 

King  over  the  United  Kingdoms  of  Great  Britain 
and  Ireland,  completing  his  fiftieth  year 
of  his  glorious  reign,  on  the  25  Oct. 
in  the  year  of  the  Christian  sera,  1810.” 

Under  the  direction  of  Thomas  Penson,  Architect, 

Several  coins  of  the  reign  of  George  III.  were  deposited  under  the 
ashlar.  The  basement  is  60  ft.  square  ;  the  tower  126  ft.  high  ;  the  style 
Egyptian,  and  the  form  of  the  structure  pyramidal. 

The  Church  of  Mold  is  a  handsome  edifice,  built  in  the  time  of  Henry 
VII.,  and  dedicated  to  St.  Mary.  Before  the  Reformation  it  attached  to 
the  abbey  of  Bustleham  or  Bysham,  in  Berkshire.  The  living  is  a  vicar¬ 
age,  and  has  dependent  on  it  the  chapelries  of  Nerguis  and  Treryddin. 
That  of  Capel-y-Spon  is  extinct.  The  style  of  Mold  church  is  Gothic,  of 
the  l6th  century;  the  windows  are  large,  and  their  arches  obtusely  pointed. 
The  walls,  towards  the  parapet,  are  ornamented  with  figures  of  animals  cut 
in  stone.  It  consists  of  a  nave,  two  side  aisles,  a  chancel,  and  a  tower,  en¬ 
riched  with  sculpture  and  crowned  with  pinnacles.  The  latter  is  more 
modern,  yet  built,  very  judiciously,  in  the  same  style  as  the  rest  of  the 
building.  The  interior  is  extremely  elegant.  The  aisles  are  separated  from 
the  nave  by  clustered  columns,  composed  of  four  round  pilasters,  with  foli¬ 
ated  capitals.  Between  the  arches  are  angelic  figures  presenting  shields, 
charged  with  some  emblem  allusive  to  the  passion  of  Christ,  or  the  arms  of 


430 


MOLD. 


benefactors.  A  mural  monument  has  a  label,  with  a  supporting  angel  on 
one  side,  and  a  bishop  on  the  other,  inscribed :  — 

ROBTUS  PMISSIONE  DIVINA  EPSUE  ASSAY  : 

forming  a  laboured  cenotaph  to  the  memory  of  Robert  Warton,  alias  Purfew. 
He  was  abbot  of  Bermondsey  in  Surrey,  elected  bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  in 
1536,  and  was  a  great  benefactor  to  this  place.  The  arms  of  the  Stanleys, 
who  long  possessed  the  manor,  are  very  frequent.  At  the  e.  end  of  the 
two  aisles  are  three  Gothic  niches,  beautifully  carved.  Those  in  the  s. 
aisle  are  almost  concealed  by  monuments.  In  this  aisle  is  a  superb  monu¬ 
ment  to  R.  Davies,  Esq.  of  Llanerch,  the  celebrated  antiquary,  who  died 
May  22.  1728,  aged  24.  A  finely  carved  figure,  in  a  standing  attitude,  is 
clad  in  a  Roman  costume  ;  Cheere  was  the  sculptor.  A  tombstone  close  to 
the  N.  door  is  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  ingenious  artist,  Wilson.  It 
contains  the  following  simple  inscription  :  — 

The  remains  of 
Richard  Wilson,  Esquire, 

Member  of 

The  Royal  Academy  of  Artists, 

Interred  May  15th,  1782, 

Aged  69. 

The  following  singular  epitaph  to  Dr.  Wynne,  was  composed  by  himself, 
engraved  during  his  lifetime,  and  put  up  here  :  —  “  \Tilliam  Wynne,  of 
Tower,  D.  D.,  some  time  fellow  of  All-Soul’s  College,  Oxford,  and  rector  of 
Llanfechan,  in  this  diocese,  departed  this  life  March  3.  1776,  aged  77*  In 
conformity  to  an  ancient  usage,  from  a  proper  regard  to  decency,  and  a 
concern  for  the  health  of  his  fellow  creatures,  he  was  moved  to  give  parti¬ 
cular  directions  for  being  buried  in  the  adjoining  churchyard,  and  not  in 
the  church  ;  and,  as  he  scorned  flattering  of  others  while  living,  he  has 
taken  care  to  prevent  being  flattered  himself  when  dead,  by  causing  this 
small  memorial  to  be  set  up  in  his  life.  God  be  merciful  to  me  a  sinner  ! 

Heb  DDUW,  Heb  ddim  i.  e.  without  the  Grace  of  God  we  are  des¬ 
titute.  Close  to  the  town  is  a  cotton  twist  factory,  affording  employment 
to  300  hands.  Large  mills  for  spinning  wool  are  in  this  vicinity,  the  pro¬ 
perty  of  Messrs.  Knight  and  Co.  The  Black  Lion  and  Lees  wood  Arms 
afford  good  accommodation.  The  market  is  held  on  Saturday,  and  the 
fairs  on  Feb.  13.,  Mar.  21.,  May  12.,  Aug.  2.,  and  Nov.  22.  There 
are  various  places  of  worship  for  dissenters.  The  county  assizes  are  held 
at  Mold,  for  which  a  new  county-hall,  in  the  old  English  style,  was  erected 
hy  Mr.  Jones  of  Chester  for  3000Z.  By  a  recent  act.  Mold  is  become  a 
borough,  contributary  with  others  in  the  county  in  the  return  of  a  member 
to  parliament. 

Plants  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Mold :  —  In  the  upper  Avood  at 
Tower,  Veronica  Montana :  and  Chrysosplenium  alternifolium.  In  the 
fields  between  the  house,  Fron,  and  the  upper  wood,  Satyrium  viride.  In 
the  meadow  in  front  of  Plasfron,  Polygonum  bistorta.  In  woods  and  hedges, 
between  Mold  and  Nercwys,  Prunus  padus.  Upon  an  old  wall  near  the 
town.  Antirrhinum  cymbalaria.  In  wet  places,  about  2  m.  on  the  n.  side 
of  the  Chester  road,  near  Offa’s  Dike,  Pilularia  globulifera. 

To  Caerwys.  [4  m.  s.  of  Mold  is  Nercwys  Hall,  the  seat  of  Miss  Gifford, 
a  fine  old  mansion,  built  in  l638,  by  John  "Wynne,  Esq.,  and  near  it 
Nercwys  chapel,  with  a  spire  steeple.]  n.  w.  is  Rhual,  2  m.,  the  seat  of  F.  C. 
Philipps,  Esq.  built  in  l634,  by  Evan  Edwards,  in  the  shape  of  a  Roman  II. 
It  contains  a  portrait  of  the  founder  by  Vandyke  ;  two  heads  of  Richard 
Earl  of  Dorset,  and  his  countess,  the  celebrated  Anne  Clifford,  with  seve- 


MOLD. 


431 


ral  highly  finished  family  pictures.  Near  this  place  is  Maes-y-Garmon^ 

the  Field  of  Germanus/’  where,  according  to  Constantius  of  Lyons,  ‘‘ di 
miraculous  victory,  obtained  by  the  Britons  under  Germanus  over  the  Saxons 
and  Piets,  by  suddenly  shouting  the  word  ‘^Alleluia,’  upon  which  the 
enemy  fled  in  great  consternation.’’  It  seems  strange,”  says  Mr.  Rees, 
in  his  ‘’Welsh  Saints,”  “that  Constantius  should  describe  such  miracles 
within  fifty  years  after  the  death  of  the  saint ;  but  this  was  the  age  of  re¬ 
ligious  imposture,  and  stories  could  be  related  at  Lyons  with  perfect  safety, 
of  events  which  took  place  in  an  obscure  corner  of  Britain.  It  does  not 
appear  that  any  of  these  tales  are  found  in  the  Welsh  MSS.;  and  it  was 
the  occurrence  of  the  name  of  Maesgarmon,  in  the  parish  of  Mold,  Flint¬ 
shire,  that  led  Archbishop  Usher  to  fix  upon  that  spot  for  the  ‘Alleluiatic 
Victory.’  That  a  battle  was  fought  there  under  circumstances  which  were 
afterwards  improved  into  a  miracle,  is  not  improbable  ;  and  there  are  names 
of  places  in  that  neighbourhood,  which  show  that  the  district  has  for  some 
reason  or  other,  been  tenacious  of  the  memory  of  Germanus.”  A  pyra¬ 
midal  stone  column  and  inscription,  placed  near  the  spot,  in  1736,  by  the 
late  Nehemiah  Griffith,  Esq.,  of  Rhual,  commemorates  this  doubtful  event. 
Mr.  Pugh  has  devoted  a  print  to  this  monument,  with  Rhual  in  the  back¬ 
ground.  Gwysanney  Hall,  on  the  1.  is  a  fine  old  stone  ejdifice.  It  has  a 
spacious  hall,  and  the  domestic  chapel  remains  in  its  pristine  state.  Pen- 
hedw,  31-  m..  Major  Molineux  Williams  ;  Nannerch,  ^  m.;  Skeifiog,  1  m.; 
Caerwys,  2  m. 

On  the  way  to  Caerwys  may  be  visited  Llyn-y-Pandy  mine,  once  held 
under  lease  from  Lord  Grosvenor,  by  the  late  spirited  and  indefatigable 
miner  and  manufacturer,  John  Wilkinson.  This  vein  contained  one  head 
of  solid  ore,  upwards  of  6  ft  wide;  another  4  ft.  The  width  upon  the 
bottoms,  are  upon  an  average  2  ft.,  for  an  extent  of  80  or  90  yards.  The 
ore  yields  from  16  to  13  cwt.  of  lead  per  ton.  The  smelting-houses  range 
upon  the  side  of  the  river.  A  mill  for  rolling  lead  into  sheets  is  turned 
by  a  water-wheel.  A  great  influx,  supposed  to  be  the  subterraneous  stream 
of  the  Alun,  for  some  time  prevented  the  raising  of  lead  ore  at  this  place, 
but  this  celebrated  iron-master,  unwilling  to  abandon  the  advantages  likely 
to  accrue  from  such  a  mine,  erected  five  steam  engines  in  order  to  eject  the 
intrusive  element,  which,  notwithstanding,  remained  tenant  in  possession, 
and  baffled  all  the  efforts  of  science.  Mr.  Wilkinson,  unwilling  to  quit  the 
field,  brought  fresh  recruits  from  Bersham,  and  erected  a  sixth  steam  engine. 
Further  down  the  river  is' another  lead  mine,  called  Pen-y-Fron.  These  and 
other  works  were  incalculably  rich,  having  one  vein  consisting  of  solid  ore 
from  4  to  5  ft.  thick ;  70  tons  have  sometimes  been  obtained  in  the  course 
of  a  week.  In  these  mines,  impressions  of  fern,  marine  shells  of  pearly 
freshness,  and  fossils  of  various  kinds  occur  in  great  abundance.  The  re¬ 
maining  6  m.  exhibit  a  constant  succession  of  the  most  beautiful  and  ro¬ 
mantic  scenery. 

Two  miles  on  the  Chester  Road  occurs  Ofd's  Dike,  extending  from 
Basingwerk,  Flintshire,  to  Monmouth,  an  ancient  and  famous  boundary 
between  Wales  and  England.  The  traveller  here  would  pass  it  unnoticed, 
if  not  pointed  out,  but  in  some  parts  of  its  course,  it  assumes  a  much  bolder 
aspect.  AU  that  remains  is  a  small  hollow,  which  runs  along  the  cultivated 
fields,  sometimes  not  above  18  inches  deep  in  the  centre,  nor  more  than  20 
yards  wide.  When  the  Romans  made  their  inroads  into  this  island,  about  the 
commencement  of  the  Christian  sera,  many  of  the  Britons  were  said  to  have 
retreated  into  Wales,  at  which  time  the  river  Dee,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Chester,  and  the  Severn  divided  the  two  countries.  All  to  the  e.  was  Eng- 


432 


MOLD. 


land_,  and  to  the  w.  Wales.  This  division  continued  about  600  years^  when 
the  ambitious  OfFa^  coveting  the  fertile  lands  of  his  neighbours,  easily 
raised  a  quarrel  and  an  army.  He  then  drove  them  to  the  mountainous 
w.,  seized  their  property,  formed  this  vast  dike,  and  ordained  that  neither 
English  nor  Welshman  should  pass  it.  Thus  dividing  rather  than  uniting 
men,  he  fostered  rancour  to  the  exclusion  of  harmony,  bloodshed  instead 
of  peace.  A  little  beyond  is  a  road  to  the  1.  to  Euloe  Green. 

To  Caerwys,  Mr.  Pennant  took  the  w.  side  of  the  vale,  a  tract  filled 
with  gentlemen’s  seats,  digressing  a  little  to  the  r.  to  see  the  magnificent 
gates  of  Leeswood,  once  the  seat  of  Sir  George  Wynne,  and  a  little  higher  up 
to  Tower, ihen  the  residence  of  Dr.  William  Wynne,  now  Mrs.  Wardle.  The 
mansion  is  small,  but  one  portion  affords  a  true  specimen  of  the  border-houses 
on  the  confines  of  Scotland  ;  viz.  a  square  tower  of  three  stories.  There 
still  remains  a  staple  in  the  ceiling,  a  memorial  of  the  rudeness  of  the  times. 
During  the  wars  between  the  houses  of  York  and  Lancaster,  this  place  was 
inhabited  by  Reinallt  ap  Gryffydd  ap  Bleddyn,  but  in  the  time  of  Leland, 
by  John  Wynn  ap  Robert.  Descending  into  his  former  road,  Mr.  Pennant 
passed  along  the  course  of  the  Terrig,  sometimes  a  trifling  brook,  but  often 
augmented  into  a  tremendous  swell.  On  quitting  its  channel,  he  went  by 
Leeswood,  or  Coed  Llai.  Farther  on  is  Hartsheath,  beautifully  seated  upon 
rising  ground,  insulated  by  the  vale,  finely  wooded  and  cultivated.  The 
house  commands  an  elegant  view  of  a  valley  divided  by  the  rock  of  Caer- 
gwrle,  rising  out  of  the  bottom,  and  capped  with  a  ruined  castle.  P^urther 
up  the  vale,  stands  Plds  Teg,  a  singular  house  formerly  belonging  to  the 
Trevors,  was  long  occupied  as  a  farm-house,  but  it  was  built  with  great  re¬ 
gularity  and  simple  grandeur  by  Inigo  Jones,  in  16T0.  In  the  centre  is  a 
hall  43  ft.  long  by  23  ft.;  a  spacious  staircase  ;  and,  above,  a  dining-room  of 
the  same  dimensions  as  the  hall,  12  ft.  9  in.  high.  At  each  corner  of 
the  house  Is  a  square  wing  or  tower  ;  in  each  is  a  room  23  ft.  by  19  ft.,  with 
closets  152  ft.  in  circumference.  Wilson,  the  landscape  painter,  was  in¬ 
terred  in  the  churchyard  of  this  parish  near  the  n.  side.  Hence  Mr. 
Pennant  pursued  his  journey  to  Caergwrle.  On  Mr.  Pennant’s  return  from 
Caergwrle,  he  passed  to  Maes  Garmon,  and  thence  towards  Kilken,  visit¬ 
ing  on  his  way,  Hesp-alyn,  the  place  where  the  river  Alun  sinks  under¬ 
ground,  continues  a  subterraneous  course  for  half  a  mile,  and  then  emerges. 
At  2  m.  distance  occurs  the  Church  of  Kilken,  beneath  Moel  Fammau, 
remarkable  for  its  carved  roof,  said  to  have  been  brought  from  Basingwerk 
abbey  on  the  dissolution.  In  this  parish  is  Kilken  Hall,  the  property  of 
Thornes  Mostyn  Edwards,  Esq.,  on  the  side  of  the  turnpike-road  ;  not  far 
distant  is  the  noted  Ffynnon  Leinw,  or  flowing-well.  The  well  is  large 
and  oblong,  with  a  double  wall  round  it.  Its  flux  and  reflux  are  noticed 
by  Camden,  but  this  phenomenon  has  ceased  since  his  time.  It  lies  in  the 
vale  of  Nannercli,  which  extends  one  way  to  Mold,  and  at  the  other  extre¬ 
mity  joins  that  of  Bodfari,  the  inlet  to  the  Vale  of  Clwyd.  Penbedw,  a 
respectable  mansion,  the  residence  of  the  late  Watkin  Williams,  Esq.,  is  a 
great  ornament  to  this  little  valley.  This  gentleman’s  library  contained  some 
remains  of  the  collection  of  Kenelm  Digby,  and  some  illuminated  books. 
In  the  meadows  below  is  part  of  a  Druidic  circle,  and  a  small  tumulus. 
Upon  one  of  the  summits  of  the  mountain,  at  a  great  height  above  the 
house,  is  the  very  strong  British  fortress,  Moel- Arthur ,  encompassed  by 
two  ditches  of  prodigious  depth.  This  is  one  of  that  line  of  fortifications 
which  defended  the  country  of  the  Ordovices  from  the  incursions  of  the 
Romans.  Nannerch  is  a  hamlet  with  a  small  church,  noted  for  little  be¬ 
sides  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  Charlotte  Theophila  Mostyn,  wife  of 


MOLD. 


433 


R.  Mostyn_,  Esq.  Leave  the  church  of  Skeijiog  on  the  r.  At  the  junction 
of  the  vales  of  Nannerch  and  Bodfari,  ascend  to  Caerwys. 

The  direct  Cross  Road  from  Mold  to  Denbigh  lies  by  way  of  Kilken, 
through  Bwlch  FrainO;,  Galasbach,  Rhiwbebyll,  Croesfa^  Llandyrnog,  and 
Whitchurch.  The  Great  Road  by  Rhual,  4  m.  Cross  the  river  Alun. 
Within  1  m.  of  Nannerch,  on  the  1.  is  Penbedw  ;  Nannerch,  Q  m.  Turn¬ 
pike-gate,  4  in.  Caerwys,  1  m.  to  the  r.  ;  Maesmynnan,  Sir  Thomas 
Mostyn,  Bart.,  1  m.;  Bodfari,  m. ;  Pont  Byfydd,  over  theCIwydjSm. 
On  the  1.  is  the  Park,  and  on  the  1.  Lleweney  Hall.  Denbigh,  3^  in. 

To  Holywell  (on  the  r.  is  a  bridle  road  across  the  mountains).  On  the 
highroad  ^Q.BsNorthop  Church,  which  contains  the  monument  to  Lleusi  Llwyd, 
alluded  to  under  the  article  Towyn,  5  m.  Hence  is  a  road  to  Chester,  12  m. 
Advancing  to  Northop,  Lower  Sychdin,  or  Shoughton,  is  on  the  1.;  beyond 
is  Middle  Sychdin  Hill,  at  Northop  on  the  1.  ;  and  further  to  the  1.  see 
Upper  Sychdin  ;  on  the  r.  of  Northop  near  the  sea  is  Kelsterston,  near 
which  is  Top  Fron.  Pass  Halkin  (^Inn,  the  Raven),  2  m.  7  fnr.  (on  the 
1.  Halkin  Hall,  Earl  Grosvenor ;  Pentre  Halkin,  1  m.  (I  m.  beyond  on  the 
1.  Pen-y-Pwlle,  and  i  m.  further,  on  the  1.  Pistyll.')  Holywell,  2  m. 

To  Ruthin,  pass  on  the  1.  Fron,  the  residence  of  the  Rev.  - 

Williams;  strike  up  the  mountain,  and  gaining  the  summit,  you  have  in 
front  Moel  Enllg  and  Moel  Famma,  the  latter  inferior  in  height  to  few  in 
Wales.  On  the  r.  of  the  road  stands  a  rude-looking  arch,  underneath 
which  is  a  stone  called  Careg-carn  March  Arthur,  with  a  cavity  in  it  like 
the  impression  of  a  horse’s  hoof.  The  legend  runs  that  King  Arthur,  when 
hunting,  took  a  leap  from  the  summit  of  Moel  Famma,  and  his  horse 
alighting  upon  this  stone,  impressed  it  with  his  hoof.  Descend  the  hill  to 
Loggerheads,  a  public-house,  which  had  the  twofold  distinction  of  a  sign, 
painted  by  the  incomparable  Wilson,  a  great  admirer  of  the  beauties  around 
this  spot.  Mr.  Pugh  has  attempted  this  subject  with  success  in  his  “  Cam¬ 
bria  Depicta/’  The  heights  above  the  Alen  produce  delightful  landscapes, 
backed  by  towering  mountains.  At  the  distance  of  2  m.  are  extensive  lead- 
mines.  Return  to  the  Loggerheads,  by  the  bed  of  the  river,  where  ob¬ 
serve  its  disappearance,  and  half  a  mile  further,  its  emergence  from  its 
dark  passage. 

The  direct  but  less  interesting  road  is  as  follows  Leave  Fron  to  the  1. 
midway  to  Colomendy ,  2-|-  m.  Tafarn-y-Celin  Gate,  ^  m.,  where  a  road 
from  Caerwys  to  Llangollen  crosses  (an  almost  solitary  stretch  of  4  m.), 
Bwlch  Penharras  is  entered,  to  Lampeter  and  Hall,  H  m.  Further  on  the 
1.,  Plds  Isav,  and  near  Ruthin,  Cae-y-groes,  and  still  further  to  the  r.  Plcis 
Stourbridge.  Ruthin,  24  m. 

To  Hawarden,  proceed  to  Pentre,  1  m.  Cross  WoAt's  Dike,  m., 
with  Buckley  Mountains  on  the  r.,  pass  to  Euloe  Castle,  supposed  to  have 
been  an  outpost  dependent  on  the  castle  of  Mold,  2  m.  This  fortress  lies 
out  of  the  direct  road,  2  m.  n.  w.  of  Hawarden,  buried  in  a  deep  glen  of 
thick  wood,  which  strongly  opposes  the  traveller’s  approach.  It  has  con¬ 
sisted  of  a  tower  guarded  by  a  strong  w^all,  and  a  round  tower  attached  to 
an  oblong  yard.  In  the  year  1157  an  obstinate  battle  was  fought  in  the 
woods  near  this  place,  still  called  Coed  Euloe.  A  large  detachment  of  the 
flower  of  the  second  Henry’s  army,  sent  from  Saltney,  was  surprised  and 
defeated  by  Dafydd  and  Conan,  sons  of  Owain  Gwynedd,  sent,  with  a 
strong  party,  from  their  father’s  camp  at  Basingwerk.  The  W elsh  attacked 
the  English  w^hen  entangled  among  the  woods  and  steeps,  where  a  fierce 
and  dreadful  conflict  ensued.  The  victors  pursued  the  retreating  enemy 
even  to  Henry’s  encampment.  The  king,  on  this  discomfiture,  brought  his 

F  F 


484 


MONMOUTH. 


whole  army  to  the  attack  at  Coleshill^  near  Flint,  but  was  forced  to  retire 
with  additional  disgrace.  The  founder  of  this  castle  is  unknown.  It  has 
been  many  centuries  in  ruins.  Leland  calls  it,  a  ruinous  castle  or  pile.'’ 
From  its  position  in  a  retired  and  thickly-wooded  dingle,  this  venerable 
relic  of  antiquity,  without  a  guide,  cannot  readily  be  discovered.  These 
remains  consist  chiefly  of  a  large  oblong  tower  rounded  at  one  extremity. 
Some  outworks  enclose  a  quadrangular  area,  at  one  angle  of  which  are  the 
remains  of  a  circular  tower.  The  ruins  are  finely  mantled  with  ivy,  and 
present  a  very  picturesque  effect. 


To  Northop,  3  miles.  Biiigley. 

Kuthin,  io  miles.  Bingley  ;  Gilpin;  Pugh. 
Mr.  Hutton  ends  the  account  of  his  Tours 
at  this  place. 

To  Caerwys,  10  miles.  Pennant;  Warner. 


To  Flint,  6  miles.  Skrine, 
Holywell,  10  miles. 
Wrexham,  11  miles. 
Denbigh,  16^  miles. 
Hawarden,  6  miles.  Pugh, 


MONMOUTH, 


Along  the  Wye  from  Tintern,  8  miles.  Barber. 
Back,  from  an  excursion  to  Grosmont.  Barber. 
From  Abergavenny,  16|  miles.  Coxe  ;  Manby. 
Along  the  Wye  from  Ross.  Gilpin;  Skrine. 


From  Ragland,  8  miles.  W^yndham  ;  Skrine. 

Tintern,  by  way  of  Llandogo  and  Trellick, 
9  miles. 


MONMOUTH  (anciently  called  Abermynwy,  since  Trefynwe,  and 
Munnowmouth  or  Monmouth)  is  a  borough  and  market-town,  in  the 
hundred  of  Scenfreth,  Monmouthshire.  This  town,  or  some  spot  in  the 
vicinity,  is  supposed  by  Dr.  Horsley  and  other  antiquaries,  to  be  the  site 
of  a  Roman  station,  the  Blestium  of  Antoninus.  It  was  certainly  one  of 
the  strongholds  occupied  by  the  Saxons  to  support  their  conquests  between 
the  Severn  and  the  Wye,  The  town  appears  to  have  been  fortified  with 
walls  and  a  moat.  In  Leland’s  time  they  were  remaining,  but  dilapidated; 
the  moat  was  entire,  and  the  four  gates  standing,  which  he  distinguishes  by 
the  names  Monk’s  Gate,  Eastern  Gate,  W ygate,  and  Monnow  or  Western 
Gate.  At  present  there  are  no  vestiges  of  three  of  them,  and  but  a  part  of 
the"  moat,  extending  from  the  back  of  Whitecross  Street,  to  the  remains  of 
an  ancient  gateway,  in  the  street  near  the  Ross  turnpike,  and  thence  to  the 
Wye.  Parts  of  two  round  towers  which  flanked  the  e.  gate  are  visible, 
and  the  Monnow  gate  is  entire.  A  Fortress  existed  at  Monmouth  previous 
to  the  Norman  conquest.  It  appears  from  the  Doomsday-book  to  have 
belonged  to  the  king,  whose  successors  assumed  the  surname  of  Monmouth. 
In  the  reign  of  Henry  II.,  John  de  Monmouth  was  the  possessor.  During 
the  distracted  reign  of  that  sovereign,  Monmouth  was  alternately  possessed 
by  the  contending  parties.  The  cause  of  the  Barons  was  warmly  espoused 
by  the  Welsh,  among  whom  the  Earl  of  Leicester  had  recruited  his  army 
previous  to  the  disastrous  battle  of  Evesham.  John  of  Monmouth,  the  sixth 
in  descent  from  Fitz  Baderon,  having  no  male  issue,  was  induced  in  the 
year  1257^  to  resign  the  custody  and  honour  of  possessing  this  demesne  for 
a  lifehold  estate,  to  Prince  Edward,  afterwards  Edward  I.,  and  his  heirs 
for  ever.  It  continued  in  this  family  till  it  came  into  the  possession  of 
John  of  Gaunt,  by  his  marriage  with  Blanche,  daughter  and  heiress  of 
Henry  Duke  of  Lancaster.  The  son  of  John  of  Gaunt  was  Henry  of 
Bolingbroke,  afterwards  Henry  IV.,  during  whose  reign  this  fortress  be¬ 
came  the  birthplace  of  Henry  of  Monmouth,  the  hero  of  Agincourt.  (See  a 
considerable  account  of  this  prince  in  Beauties  of  England,”  vol.  xi.  p.  55.  ; 
Shakspeare’s  Henry  V.  Stowe’s  Britain,”  p.  345. ;  Coxe’s  Tour,” 
p,  311.;  and  Henry’s  “  Great  Britain,”  vol.  ix.  p.  74.)  It  afterwards  de¬ 
scended  by  inheritance,  as  part  of  the  Duchy  of  Lancaster,  to  Henry  VI. 


MONMOUTH. 


435 


By  his  attainder  it  came  to  Edward  IV.^  who  granted  it  to  William 
Lord  Herbert,  afterwards  Earl  of  Pembroke,  but  reverting  again  to  the 
Crown,  it  formed  a  part  of  the  Duchy  of  Lancaster,  which  Henry  VI 1. 
possessed.  Since  that  period  it  has  become  private  property.  Previous  to 
the  conclusion  of  the  17th  century,  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Henry, 
the  first  Duke  of  Beaufort.  His  illustrious  descendant  is  the  present  pro¬ 
prietor.  The  remains  of  this  fortress  stand  upon  the  ridge  of  an  eminence 
on  the  hanks  of  the  Monnow,  to  the  n.  of  the  town,  almost  enveloped  by 
other  buildings.  The  Castle  was  constructed  of  red  gritstone,  forming- 
walls  from  6  to  10  ft.  thick,  filled  up  with  pebbles  and  liquidated  cement 
as  described  by  Vitruvius.  The  chamber  where  Henry  V.  was  born  is 
still  distinguishable,  being  part  of  an  upper  story,  the  beams  of  which  that 
supported  the  floor  still  project  from  the  sides.  Its  dimensions  are  58  ft. 
long  by  24  ft.  broad.  Another  large  apartment,  63  ft.  in  length,  and 
46  ft.  in  breadth,  adjoins,  probably  once  the  baronial  hall.  At  the  n.  e. 
angle  was  a  circular  tower,  6  ft.  in  diameter,  which  contained  the  winding 
staircase  leading  to  the  grand  apartments.  On  the  s.  of  these  ruins  is  a 
domestic  edifice,  constructed  of  materials  taken  from  the  surrounding 
fragments.  It  is  dated  l673,  and  formed  an  occasional  residence  of  the 
Beaufort  family  ;  but  is  now  a  boarding-school  for  young  ladies.  Ves¬ 
tiges  of  the  castle  are  apparent  among  stables  and  out-houses.  Some  vaults 
are  of  an  ancient  character.  They  may  be  attributed  to  Saxon,  if  not  to 
Roman,  workmanship. 

The  present  Parish  Church  occupies  the  site  where  stood  that  of  the 
Priory,  About  the  year  1740,  it  was  partly  taken  down  and  re-constructed 
with  new  galleries.  The  tower  and  lower  part  of  the  spire  are  the  only 
fragments  of  the  ancient  edifice.  The  remains  of  a  Benedictine  priory  lie 
on  the  N.  side  of  St.  Mary’s  Church.  It  was  founded  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  I.,  by  Wihenoc,  Lord  of  Monmouth,  and  was  a  cell  to  the  monastery 
of  St.  Florence,  near  Salmur  in  Anjou.  The  Priory  House  contains  an 
apartment  with  a  fine  window,  which  the  legend  of  the  place  declares  to 
have  been  the  library  of  the  celebrated  historian  Galfredius  Arthurius, 
bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  better  known  by  Geojfrey  of  Monmouth,  who  lived 
about  the  middle  of  the  12th  century.  It  is  supposed  that  he  was  educated 
at  this  place.  He  resigned  his  see,  it  is  said,  to  pursue  his  studies  unmo¬ 
lested,  and  retired  to  the  monastery  of  Abingdon,  of  which  he  was  abbot. 
He  translated  the  history  of  Britain  from  the  British  language  into  Latin, 
a  work  said  to  have  been  discovered  by  Walter  Mapaeus,  while  in  America, 
and  brought  by  him  to  England.  The  veracity  of  Geoffrey  has  been 
doubted  by  Camden  and  others,  but  much  is  certainly  owing  to  him  as  an 
early  historian.  He  acknowledges  that  his  history  was  not  wholly  a  trans¬ 
lation.  The  best  Welsh  critics  think  his  work  is  a  vitiated  translation  of 
the  History  of  the  British  Kings,”  written  by  Tyssilio  or  St.  Teliau, 
Bishop  of  St.  Asaph.  He,  however,  produced  an  exceedingly  entertaining 
work,  abounding  with  traditionary  tales.  It  contains  the  affecting  history 
of  King  Lear,  which  Spenser  transferred  into  his  Faery  Queen,”  and 
from  this  or  a  translation  of  Geoffrey,  probably  Shakspeare  formed  his 
tragedy.  Milton  selected  also  his  beautiful  fiction  of  Sabrina  from  the 
same  author.  (See  Bale’s  ‘^English  Writers;”  Morerfs  ‘‘Historical  Dic¬ 
tionary;”  Gough’s  “  Camden,”  ii.  483.;  Cambrian  Register  for  1795,” 
p.  347.,  and  Coxe’s  “  Monmouthshire,”  p.  294.)  St.  Mary’s  Church  is  a 
ha*ndsome  modern  edifice,  remarkable  for  its  spire,  rising  200  ft.  from  the 
foundation.  The  body  of  the  structure  is  well  proportioned,  and  the 
range  of  columns  separating  the  nave  from  the  aisle,  and  supporting  a^ 

F  F  2 


436 


MONMOUTH. 


horizontal  eiitablature_,  would  have  a  uniform  and  pleasing  effect,  were  it 
not  destroyed  by  a  finely-pointed  e.  window,  with  highly  ornamented 
tracery,  which  produces  a  discordance  of  style.  The  traveller  who  is  fond 
of  prospects  will  ascend  the  tower. 

The  suburbs  of  Monmouth  stretch  beyond  the  Monnow,  and  occupy  the 
site  of  what  was  probably  the  ancient  British  town.  Near  the  bridge  over 
that  stream  stands  St.  Thomas’s  Church,  a  curious  old  structure.  It  is 
now  a  chapel  of  ease  to  St.  Mary’s,  and  Tuesdays  are  appropriated  to  the 
service.  The  circular  shape  of  the  doorways  indicate  a  Saxon  character, 
but  the  more  ancient  parts  may  have  been  British.  The  mouldings  of  the 
arch,  between  the  nave  and  the  chancel  and  the  n.  doorway  of  the  nave, 
excite  particular  attention.  A  Free  School  was  founded  at  Monmouth  in 
the  reign  of  James  I.,  by  W.  Jones,  haberdasher.  Burton,  in  his  His¬ 
tory  of  Wales,  notices  the  founder  of  this  charity  as  follows  :  —  “  W.  Jones 
was  born  at  Monmouth,  and  forced  to  quit  his  country  for  not  being  able 
to  pay  ten  groats.  Coming  to  London,  he  became  first  a  porter,  and  then 
a  factor,  and  going  over  to  Hamburgh,  had  such  a  sale  for  Welsh  cottons, 
that  he  gained  a  very  considerable  estate  in  a  short  time.  He  founded  a 
Free  School  at  Monmouth,  allowing  45/.  yearly  to  the  master,  and  90^* 
salary  to  a  lecturer,  besides  a  stately  Almshouse  for  twenty  poor  people, 
each  having  two  rooms  and  a  garden,  and  Ss.  (5d.  a  week,  all  which  he  left 
to  the  oversight  of  the  company  of  haberdashers  in  London,  who  discharge 
their  trust  therein  to  this  day.”  The  foundation  of  a  school  for  the  edu¬ 
cation  of  infants  was  laid  Sept.  6.  1838.  Near  the  extremity  of  the  town, 
by  the  side  of  the  Monnow,  is  the  County  Gaol,  a  massive  stone  building, 
which,  in  its  plan,  regulations  and  superintendence,  does  high  credit  to 
the  public  spirit  of  the  county.  It  is  built  on  Mr.  Howard’s  plan,  upon 
a  lofty  spot,  in  the  form  of  an  ancient  castle.  The  Bridges  here  are  four 
in  number.  The  first,  across  the  Wye  on  the  road  to  Gloucester,  is  very 
ancient,  with  a  gateway,  and  is  to  be  widened.  There  are  two  bridges  over 
the  Monnow,  one  of  which  is  of  wood  called  Tibb’s,  and  a  fourth  over  the 
little  river  Trothy.  The  market-place  is  ornamented  with  a  modern  Town 
Hall,  built  upon  pillars,  forming  a  handsome  colonnade.  The  front  pre¬ 
sents  a  niche  containing  a  statue  of  Henry  U.,  in  an  awkward  attitude, 
with  an  inscription.  The  Trade  here  is  inconsiderable.  Its  principal 
support  is  derived  from  the  navigation  of  the  Wye,  in  the  trade  between 
Bristol  and  Hereford,  and  intermediate  places.  There  are  some  iron  and 
tin  works  in  the  vicinity,  belonging  to  Whitehouse  and  Co.  In  the  season, 
a  considerable  quantity  of  bark  is  brought  from  the  upper  districts  of  the 
Wye,  and  here  put  up  in  numerous  piles,  to  be  pared  and  cleaned,  pre¬ 
vious  to  their  exportation  to  Chepstow,  for  the  s.  of  England  and  Ireland. 
A  rail  or  tramroad  runs  from  the  Forest  collieries  to  this  place.  A  con¬ 
siderable  part  of  the  thriving  appearance  of  Monmouth  may  be  attributed 
to  numerous  genteel  families,  wlio  are  induced  by  the  amenity  of  the 
situation  to  fix  their  residence  here.  Caps  once  formed  a  considerable  ar¬ 
ticle  of  manufacture.  Shakspeare,  in  his  play  of  Henry  V.,  speaks  of 
Welshmen  doing  goot  service  in  a  garden  where  leeks  did  grow,  wearing 
leeks  in  their  Monmouth  caps.”  Fuller  says,  These  were  the  most  an¬ 
cient,  general,  warm,  and  profitable  covering  of  men’s  heads  in  this  island, 
many  thousands  of  people  being  maintained  thereby.  It  was  enacted, 
13Eliz.  c.  19.,  that  they  should  be  worn  by  all  persons  (some  of  worship 
and  quality  excepted),  on  sabbaths  and  holydays,  on  the  pain  of  forfeiting 
10  groats  for  the  omission.  This  act  was  repealed  39th  of  the  same  reign. 
The  capper’s  chapel  doth  still  remain,  but  on  occasion  of  a  great  plague, 


MONMOUTH. 


43? 

the  trade  was  removed  to  Beaudly  (Bewdley)^  Worcestershire.”  (^Itin. 
vol.  V.  p.  8.)  This  Borough  and  corporate  town  is  governed  by  a  mayor, 
two  bailiffs,  and  common  council  men.  It  sends  one  member  to  parliament, 
in  conjunction  with  the  burgesses  of  Newport  and  Usk.  In  1831,  Mon¬ 
mouth  contained  4916  inhabitants.  The  Market  is  held  on  Saturday; 
the  Fairs  occur  on  Whit  Tuesday,  April  18.,  June  18.,  Sept.  4.,  and  Nov.  22. 
Considerable  improvements  are  in  progress  here.  A  fine  Town  Market 
and  Slaughter  House  underneath,  are  to  be  completed  at  an  expense  of 
8000/.  A  range  of  new  erections  by  different  interests,  is  to  form  a 
Qgiadrant.  Between  these  a  spacious  line  of  road  will  avoid  the  narrow 
and  dangerous  pass  of  Church  Street.  The  Water  Company  have  it  in 
contemplation  to  supply  the  town  with  water.  Five  Reading  Societies  are 
established,  and  gas-lights  are  to  be  introduced.  The  principal  Inns  are 
the  Beaufort  Arms,  King’s  Head,  and  Angel.  Monmouth  is  frequently 
environed  with  aqueous  exhalations,  probably  arising  from  its  low  situation 
and  the  junction  of  three  rivers.  The  Walks  in  the  vicinity  are  extremely 
pleasant,  particularly  Chippenham  Meadow,  an  agreeable  plain,  inclosed  by 
the  town,  the  Wye,  and  the  Monnow,  Monmouth,  from  Tibbs’s  Farm, 
appears  placed  upon  a  semicircular  ridge  ;  near  Tibbs’s  Bridge,  the  scene 
is  wild  and  romantic  ;  from  other  points  it  appears  situated  upon  a  plain  ; 
from  the  banks  of  the  Wye  the  houses  seem  to  rise  upon  the  acclivity  of  a 
hill,  the  church  forming  a  principal  object. 

In  the  parish  of  Stanton,  in  the  vicinity  of  Monmouth,  is  a  remarkably 
high  hill,  called  the  Kymin,  which  rises  from  the  banks  of  the  Wye,  on 
the  Gloucestershire  side  of  the  river.  This  eminence  forms  a  type  of  the 
old  red  sandstone,  a  formation  of  rock  most  fully  developed  along  the 
course  of  the  Wye,  the  Usk,  and  the  Towey.  This  geological  series  con¬ 
tains  beds  of  sandstone,  conglomerate,  and  concretionary  limestone  called 
carnstone.  The  fossils  are  not  numerous  except  at  particular  points  in  the 
tilestone.  In  this  series  occurs  the  singular  fish  Cephalaspis.  A  pleasant 
walk  is  traced  up  to  the  summit  of  the  Kymin,  from  which  a  wonderful 
range  of  prospect  extends  to  a  circumference  of  near  300  m.  At  the  top 
is  a  handsome  circular  pavilion  consisting  of  two  stories :  the  upper  a  ban¬ 
queting  room,  the  lower  a  kitchen.  The  former  has  five  windows,  com¬ 
manding  different  views.  Its  summit  is  also  adorned  with  a  rich  wood 
called  Beaulieu  Grove.  Several  walks  cut  through  it  terminate  at  the  brow 
of  steep  declivities  commanding  great  and  enchanting  views.  This  emi¬ 
nence  has  become  celebrated  from  a  naval  temple  which  was  erected  to 
record  the  eminent  victories  obtained  by  the  English  on  the  seas,  but  par¬ 
ticularly  during  the  American  war.  The  edifice  is  built  upon  the  ridge  of 
a  rock,  and  forms  a  square  of  13  ft.  The  freize,  which  is  continued  round 
it,  is  ornamented  with  medallions  of  the  most  eminent  British  admirals, 
surrounded  with  emblematic  and  appropriate  devices.  In  the  same  parish, 
on  the  edge  of  a  precipitous  declivity  of  limestone  rock,  is  a  rude  fragment 
of  silicious  grit,  called  the  Buckstone,  the  form  of  which  resembles  an  ir¬ 
regular  square  pyramid,  inverted  and  standing  upon  its  point  or  apex.  Its 
circumference  at  top  is  56  ft.,  the  point  on  which  it  rests,  about  .3  ft. 

The  only  road  bearing  positive  marks  of  Roman  origin  is  that  which 
leads  from  the  left  bank  of  the  Wye,  up  the  Kymin,  passes  by  Stanton  in 
Gloucestershire,  and  was  part  of  the  old  way  from  Monmouth  to  Glou¬ 
cester.  At  this  place  are  many  indications  of  a  Roman  settlement ;  the 
name  of  Stanton  proves  the  existence  of  a  Roman  causeway.”  (^Cooce^s 
Monmouth,  Introd.  *22.) 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Monmouth  are  several  antique  mansions  which. 

F  F  3 


MONMOUTH. 


438 

desarve  notice.  About  1  m.  from  the  town^  on  the  1.  of  the  road  to  Rag- 
laiidj  is  Wynastow  House,  Colonel  Dorville^  formerly  the  residence  of  a 
branch  of  the  Herbert  family,  conjectured  to  have  been  built  about  the 
reign  of  Henry  VI.  Its  situation  on  a  gentle  eminence  commands  many 
extensive  views.  There  are  still  remaining  several  original  family  portraits, 
particularly  of  the  late  Mrs.  S  winner  ton,  by  Romney,  The  old  chapel  be¬ 
longing  to  the  mansion,  is  now  applied  to  domestic  use.  Dingestow 
House,  S.  Bosanquet,  Esq.  Treowen,  situated  about  1  m.  further  w.,  to 
the  N,  of  the  road  to  Ragland,  was  once  a  splendid  mansion  built  from 
designs  by  Inigo  Jones;  this  belonged  to  another  scion  from  the  Herbert 
stock.  The  position  of  the  house  and  grounds  is  delightful,  watered  by 
the  meandering  Trothy,  and  still  exhibiting  a  profusion  of  rich  woods. 
Though  occupied  as  a  farm-house,  this  mansion  continues  to  show  many 
marks  of  its  ancient  grandeur  in  the  spacious  and  decorative  style  of  the 
apartments,  in  a  noble  staircase  of  oak,  and  its  ornamented  porch.  Troy 
House,  standing  on  the  Trothy,  within  4  to*  s.  e.  of  Monmouth,  near  the 
road  to  Chepstow,  was  the  residence  of  another  of  the  prolific  Herbert  race. 
Part  of  the  original  structure  is  visible  in  a  Gothic  gateway  ;  but  the  man¬ 
sion  is  of  later  date,  and  now  possessed  by  the  Duke  of  Beaufort.  The 
apartments  contain  a  considerable  number  of  family  pictures,  particularly 
that  of  Edward  Earl  of  Glamorgan,  sixth  Earl  and  second  Marquess  of  Wor¬ 
cester.  In  the  housekeeper’s  room  is  a  curious  oak  Chimney-piece  brought 
from  Ragland  Castle,  carved  with  scriptural  subjects ;  and  in  a  room  on 
the  third  floor  is  another  inlaid  with  mother  of  pearl,  and  ornamented  with 
devices.  Though  designed  by  Inigo  Jones,  the  edifice  has  little  that  can 
recommend  it  to  notice.  The  armour  that  Harry  of  Monmouth  is  said  to 
have  worn  at  the  battle  of  Agincourt  is  still  here,  and  the  cradle  wherein 
he  is  supposed  by  some  to  have  reposed  ;  but  the  freshness  of  the  latter 
bespeaks  it  to  have  been  intended  for  some  of  the  Beaufort  family  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  II.  The  gardens,  now  converted  into  orchards,  were  once 
celebrated  for  their  beauty.  Tydart  House,  T.  Oakley,  Esq.  seated  mid¬ 
way  on  a  declivity  which  leads  from  the  extremity  of  the  common  of 
Monmouth,  is  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its  situation.  At  this  point, 
the  mountains  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Abergavenny  assume  a  fine  position  ; 
the  gentle  swell  of  the  little  Skyrrid  is  peculiarly  elegant,  and  the  craggy 
ridge  of  the  great  Skyrrid  appears  surmounted  by  the  cone  of  the  Sugar- 
loaf  :  below  Monmouth  stretches  along  the  banks  of  the  W ye,  beautifully 
embowered  in  trees  and  backed  by  wooded  eminences,  above  which  towers 
the  bleak  and  rugged  summit  of  the  Little  Howard.  While  at  Monmouth, 
Mr.  Ireland  made  an  excursion  to  Ragland  Castle.  On  quitting  Mon¬ 
mouth,  he  ascended  a  considerable  hill  about  1  m.  from  the  town,  which 
affords  a  most  luxuriant  landscape.  From  this  eminence,  the  rich  valley 
in  which  Monmouth  is  situated,  and  the  beauties  of  the  surrounding 
country,  finely  illustrate  Gray’s  opinion  of  the  charming  situation  of  this 
place,  which  he  rapturously  describes  as  the  delight  of  his  eyes  and  the 
very  seat  of  pleasure.”  The  distance  to  Ragland  by  way  of  M^ynastow, 
is  8  m.  [See  Ragland.] 

Mr.  Gilpin  recommends  the  following  route  to  those  inclined  to  make  a 
tour  from  Monmouth  to  the  source  of  the  'Wye,  and  thence  through  the 
midland  Counties  of  Wales.  From  Ross  to  Hereford  the  great  road 
leaves  the  river,  which  is  scarcely  seen  ;  but  it  may  be  pursued  on  foot, 
along  its  banks.  From  Hereford,  the  road  follows  the  course  of  the  river 
to  the  Hay,  winding  along  its  n.  banks.  Six  miles  from  Hereford  is  Foocley. 
After  which  the  ruins  of  Bradwardine  Castle  appear  soon  in  view.  At  a 


MONMOUTIL 


439 

bridge  near  them  you  cross  the  W ye_,  and  traverse  the  s.  side  of  the  river* 
Leaving  Whitney  Bridge  on  the  r.  you  still  continue  your  course  along  the 
s,  bank,  and  soon  come  in  view  of  the  ruins  of  Clifford  Castle,  where  tra¬ 
dition  informs  us,  the  celebrated  Rosamond  spent  her  early  life.  Soon 
after,  you  arrive  at  the  Hay.  If  you  have  time  for  an  excursion,  you  will 
find  about  half-way  between  Hay  and  Abergavenny,  the  ruins  of  Llan- 
THONY  Priory.  Returning  to  Hay,  continue  your  route  to  Builth,  still  on 
the  s.  side  of  the  river.  Four  miles  beyond  the  Hay,  stands  Maeslough 
House,  Walter  Wilkins,  Esq.,  M.  P.  The  situation  is  in  its  kind  perhaps 
one  of  the  finest  in  Wales.  The  river  encircles  a  part  of  the  grounds,  at 
the  distance  of  ^m.  from  the  house.  The  banks  are  enriched  with  many 
objects,  among  which  two  bridges  with  winding  roads,  and  the  tower  of 
Glasbury  Church,  surrounded  by  wood,  are  conspicuous.  A  distant  country 
equally  enriched,  fills  the  remote  parts  of  the  landscape,  which  is  ter¬ 
minated  by  mountains.  The  bridge  at  Glasbury,  in  this  view,  is  re¬ 
markably  light  and  elegant,  consisting  of  several  arches.  As  you  advance 
to  Builth  the  country  grows  more  grand  and  picturesque.  The  valley  of 
the  Wye  becomes  more  contracted,  and  the  roads  run  at  the  bottom  along 
the  edge  of  the  water.  In  this  wild  and  enchanting  country  stands  Llan- 
goed,  the  house  of  John  Macnamara,  Esq.  A  few  miles  beyond,  reach 
Builth  ;  here  again  cross  the  Wye,  and  continue  along  the  n.  side.  The 
same  grand  scenery  continues  v/ith  lofty  banks,  woody  vales,  a  rocky 
channel,  and  a  rapid  stream.  Soon  after,  come  to  the  sulphureous  springs 
of  Llandrindod,  which  leave  on  the  r.,  and,  crossing  the  Ithon,  reach 
Rhaiadyr.  Hence  you  begin  to  approach  the  source  of  the  Wye,  which 
becomes  more  and  more  insignificant.  Llangurig,  at  the  distance  of  1 2  m. 
from  Rhaiadyr,  is  the  last  village  on  the  banks  of  the  Wye.  Soon  after, 
all  inhabitancy  ceases,  and  you  begin  to  ascend  the  skirts  of  Plinlimmon, 
the  Hill  King’  of  Cambria.  After  a  gradual  rise  of  10  m.  you  arrive 
at  the  sources  of  the  river.  It  is  a  singular  circumstance  that  within  J  m. 
of  the  well-head  of  the  Wye  rises  the  Severn.  As  there  is  nothing  in 
these  inhospitable  regions  to  detain  you  long,  you  will  undoubtedly  soon  be 
inclined  to  return  to  Rhaiadyr.  Hence  Havod  will  certainly  form  a  pow¬ 
erful  attraction.  Thence  may  be  visited,  at  no  great  distance,  Pont-y- 
Mynach,  Aberystwith,  or  whatever  other  object  the  traveller  is  inclined  to 
pursue.”  (For  an  account  of  the  Wye  navigation  to  Chepstow,  see  the 
routes  referred  to  under  the  article  Wye.) 

Five  miles  on  the  road  to  Chepstow  is  the  village  of  Trellech,  supposed 
to  derive  its  name  from  three  Druidic  stones  standing  in  a  field  adjoining 
the  road  near  the  church.  They  are  placed  upright  or  rather  inclining, 
of  different  heights,  from  10  to  1.5  ft.  By  the  natives  they  are  called 
Harold’s  stones.  In  the  village  is  an  earthen  mound  450  ft.  in  diameter, 
encircled  by  a  moat,  and  connected  with  extensive  entrenchments,  which 
is  imagined  to  have  been  a  Roman  work,  and  afterwards  the  site  of  a  castle 
belonging  to  the  earls  of  Clare.  The  village  is  also  remarkable  for  a  cha¬ 
lybeate  well,  which  ])articipates  in  the  properties  of  the  Tunbridge  waters. 
Near  the  Church  (which  deserves  to  be  noticed  for  the  agreeable  proportion 
of  its  Gothic  members  and  its  handsome  spire)  is  a  pedestal  with  a  sun¬ 
dial  supposed  to  be  of  high  antiquity,  yet  probably  not  anterior  to  the 
l6’th  century.  Upon  one  side  of  the  pedestal  are  recorded  the  three  ex¬ 
traordinary  things  for  which  this  place  is  noted.  On  one  side  the  three 
stones  are  represented  in  relief,  with  their  measurements,  i.  e.  8,  10,  and 
14  ft.  high,  above  ‘"‘major  saxis,” beneath,  “  hic  fuit  victor  haroldus.” 
Upon  another  side  is  represented  a  vault :  the  sculptor  intended  it  undoubt- 

F  F  4 


440 


MONMOUTH. 


edly  for  a  tumulus  ;  over  it  magna  mole  below,  o  quot  hic  se- 
PULTA.”  The  third  represents  the  fountain  inscribed  above  maxime 
PONTE,’’  below,  DOM.  MAGD.  PROBIT,  osTENDiT.”  In  this  parish  is  a  re¬ 
markable  tumulus  called  C7'aig~y-Dijrn,  being  60  paces  in  circumference 
and  in  height  about  6  yards.  It  rises  from  an  easy  ascent  and  hollow  upon 
the  top.  This  heap  is  chiefly  formed  of  small  stones  covered  with  turf, 
and  may  properly  be  called  a  carnedd.  Upon  the  top  is  a  large  flat  stone 
of  an  oval  form,  about  3  yards  long,  and  12  inches  thick.  Under  it 
was  found  a  cistvaen,  or  chest  of  stone,  4  ft.  long,  and  3  ft.  broad,  com¬ 
posed  of  seven  stones,  two  at  the  end  and  one  behind.  These  British 
monuments  are  common  in  Wales  ;  but  for  what  use  they  were  erected  is 
not  very  certain.  Perhaps  the  upright  stones  were  only  supporters  of  the 
slab  which  might  have  been  an  altar.  Some  have  thought  the  cell  formed 
by  the  position  of  the  stones  was  designed  to  incarcerate  prisoners.  It  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  burial-place  or  sepulchre  of  some  British  chief, 
before  the  Roman  conquest.  From  this  place  the  road  soon  ascends  the 
Devauden  Hill,  traverses  a  tract  of  forest  through  the  Fedw,  and  called 
Chepstow  Park,  notorious  in  former  times  for  highway  robberies,  and  in 
the  course  of  its  progress  embraces  several  superb  and  extensive  views,  in 
which  the  varieties  of  the  Wye,  hanging  woods,  wild  heathy  mountains, 
and  rich  inclosures  rise  in  splendid  succession.  Through  the  pious  labours 
of  James  Davies,  an  humble  individual,  Devauden  has  been  blessed  with  a 
Chapel  and  National  School.  Of  this  interesting  character,  who  has  been 
the  instrument  in  the  hands  of  God  of  changing  a  moral  wilderness  into  a 
garden  of  the  Lord,  a  memoir  is  published  by  Rivingtons,  affording  a  beau¬ 
tiful  illustration  how  much  may  be  effected  by  individuals  in  the  obscur¬ 
est  walks  of  life,  when  under  the  constraining  influence  of  the  love  of  Christ. 

On  the  road  to  Hereford  a  direction  may  be  taken  to  Grosmont. 
Passing  through  a  charming  country  for  3  m.  on  the  r.,  is  Perthir,  a  very 
ancient  seat  of  the  Herbert  family.  Of  the  castellated  mansion  surrounded 
by  a  moat  and  two  drawbridges,  few  vestiges  appear  in  the  present  di¬ 
minished  and  patched  building ;  yet  some  marks  of  former  magnificence 
meet  the  observer  in  a  long  vaulted  hall,  with  a  music  gallery  at  the  end,  a 
large  Gothic  window  with  stone  compartments,  and  the  massive  oak  beams 
of  a  long  passage.  The  extensive  manors  which  attached  to  Pethir,  are 
said  to  have  extended  as  far  as  Ross.  Perthir  is  the  possession  of  John 
Powell  Lorimor.  Newcastle,  situated  on  this  route,  5  m.  to  the  n.  e.  of 
Llanfair,  derives  its  name  from  a  fortress  once  erected  here,  of  which  only 
a  tumulus,  surrounded  by  a  foss  about  3  ft.  in  circumference,  remains. 
An  ancient  oak  derives  importance,  being  considered  by  these  credulous 
villagers  as  the  rendezvous  of  elfin  spirits.  It  has,  however,  long  been 
hollow,  and  is  quickly  going  to  decay.  A  fynnon  fawr,  or  sacred  fountain, 
at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  is  also  said  to  be  under  miraculous  pro¬ 
tection.  Passing  through  the  village  and  quitting  the  turnpike-road,  at 
the  distance  of  3  m.,  Screnfrith  Castle  is  seen  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Monnow,  in  a  sequestered  spot  environed  by  high  hills.  This  fortress  is 
of  the  simplest  construction  ;  its  area,  a  trapezium  in  form,  is  merely  sur¬ 
rounded  by  a  curtain  wall  with  circular  towers,  covering  each  angle  and  a 
demi-turret  projecting  from  the  middle  of  one  side.  Near  the  centre  of 
the  area  is  a  Juliet  or  high  round  tower  upon  a  mound.  This  formed  the 
keep,  the  door  and  window  apertures  of  which  are  circularly  arched ;  but 
the  exterior  walls  of  the  castle  appear  to  have  been  originally  only  fur¬ 
nished  with  eyelet-holes  or  chinks  for  the  discharge  of  arrows.  Screnfrith 
Castle  is  certainly  of  British  erection,  and  probably  as  ancient  as  any  in 


MONMOUTH. 


441 


Wales.  It  is  generally  approached  from  the  turnpike-road  leading  by 
Llandeilo  Cresseney  to  Abergavenny  at  the  Boot  public-house^  7  no.  from 
Monmouth.  This  fortress  is  seldom  visited  by  travellers  on  account  of 
the  difficulty  of  access  to  it  both  for  carriages  and  horses.  Screnfrith, 
Grosmont  and  White  Castles  formerly  defended  the  lordship  of  Overwent, 
which,  extending  from  the  W ye  to  the  Usk,  nearly  comprised  the  whole 
northern  portion  of  Monmouthshire.  This  tract  of  country,  with  its 
castles,  fell  into  the  hands  of  Brian  Fitz  Count,  Earl  of  Hereford,  who 
came  over  with  the  Conqueror  ;  but  it  was  afterwards  seized  by  Henry  III., 
and  conferred  on  his  favourite  Hubert  de  Burgh.  On  the  disgrace  of  that 
virtuous  and  able  minister,  the  capricious  monarch  granted  the  three 
castles  to  his  son,  the  Earl  of  Lancaster  ;  and  with  Caldecot  Castle,  they 
still  remain  annexed  to  the  Duchy.  The  road  to  Grosmont  lies  through 
tedious  by-lanes,  but  the  scenery  is  most  retired  and  pleasing.  On  the  r., 
the  lively  and  transparent  Monnow  serpentises  through  woods  and  hollows. 
On  the  1.  the  Grmg,  a  huge  and  solitary  mountain,  rears  its  towering 
sides.  Grosmont  Church  is  a  large  and  handsome  Gothic  structure,  with 
a  tower  and  sptie.  The  village  is  now  small,  hut  the  large  causeways 
which  diverge  in  different  directions,  several  feet  high,  and  from  Q  to  12  ft. 
broad,  show  that  it  was  once  a  place  of  considerable  importance.  The 
distances  on  the  direct  great  road  are  Welsh  Newton,  3  m.  3  fur.  JLlcm 
lyaudg,  toU-har,  2m.  1  fur.  (On  the  1.  P.R.  Myners,Esq.)  Wormlow 

Tump  Inn,  3  m.  7  fur.  (On  the  1.,  Bryngwyn,  Ca})tain  Phillips,  and  the 
Meend,  J.  Richard  Symonds,  Esq.)  Cross  in  hand  tollgate,  1  m.  7  fur.  (On 
the  r.  to  Ross,  8^  m  )  Callow,  Inn,  Guys  Head,  |  m.  Red  Hill,  2  m.  1  fur. 
Cross  the  \Uye  to  Hereford,  If  m. 

On  the  Highway,  leaving  the  W ye  upon  the  r.,  and  the  Monnow  on  the 
1.,  a  chain  of  hills  on  each  side,  shuts  both  these  rivers  from  the  view,  but 
the  valleys  are  rich,  and  the  slopes  of  many  eminences  are  clothed  with 
wood.  At  the  6th  m.  cross  the  Garren,  and  observe  the  sheltered  vale 
through  which  the  Monnow  passes,  till  it  pours  its  tributary  waters  into  the 
Wye  about  a  mile  below  Goodrich  Castle.  Pass  the  little  village  of  St. 
Weonards,  and  proceed  for  upwards  of  2  m.  on  the  lower  1.  hand  slopes  of 
Scudamore  Hill.  Soon  after  opens  on  the  1.  hand,  the  extensive  and  beau¬ 
tiful  flat  through  which  the  Worme  directs  its  serpentine  course  to  the 
Monnow.  Parks,  gentlemen’s  seats,  and  villages  ornament  the  picture. 
From  Redhill  descry  the  spire,  towers,  bridge,  &c.,  of  Hereford. 

The  following  route  to  Abergavenny  is  the  Great  Road.  After 
quitting  Monmouth,  pass  the  curious  Old  Bridge  over  the  Monnow,  with  a 
gateway  upon  the  middle.  Ascending  the  hill,  survey  the  scenery  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  town.  Many  seats  are  advantageously  planted  round,  among 
which  is  Troy  House,  the  splendid  mansion  of  the  Dukes  of  Beaufort. 
Nearly  all  the  splendid  ruins  belonging  to  the  present  Duke,  are  kept  in  a 
high  state  of  preservation,  and  much  is  due  to  Mr.  Wyatt,  his  Grace’s 
agent,  for  the  attention  he  bestows  upon  them.  To  Winastow  village  and 
church,  2  m.  Dinastow  and  Dinastow  Cou7't,  2  m.  (On  the  1 ,  W.  Bo- 
sanquet,  Esq.)  Andros,  2  m.  Tregare  and  church,  7  fur.  (Two  m.  s.  of 
this  place  lies  Ragland  Castle.)  In  front  appears  the  Blorenge,  the 
Sugar  Loaf,  and  Skyridd  Fawr  mountains,  which  continue  in  sight  for 
several  miles.  The  Black  Mountains  also  appear,  beyond  which  is  placed 
the  celebrated  Llanthony  Abbey.  Bryngwyn  and  church,  1  m.  7  fur. 
Half  a  mile  further  on  the  1.  to  Chepstow,  l6'^  m. ;  and  ^  m.  beyond  to 
the  1.  to  Usk,  5  m.  On  the  r.,  is  a  handsome  Gothic  gateway,  forming  the 
entrance  to  Clytha  House,  the  seat  of  W.  Jones,  Esq.  On  the  1,  upon  a 


442 


MONMOUTH. 


•wooded  eminence  over  the  road  is  a  castellated  building  of  modern  erection. 
One  m.  to  the  r.,  lies  Llana^'th  Court,  J.  Jones.  Esq.  This  handsome  new 
house  was  built  upon  the  site  of  an  ancient  one.  One  m,  beyond  Clytha 
Castle  is  Pont-y- Goitre,  E.  Bury^  Esq.  In  proceeding  to  Abergavenny^ 
the  hills  which  appeared  in  front,  begin  to  present  an  opening  through 
which  the  Usk  winds.  Llangattock  Inn,  an  excellent  angling  station,  4^  m. 

(On  the  1.,  Llanover,  and  1  m.  on  the  r.,  is  Llansanffraid, - James,  Esq. 

Half  a  mile  further  on  the  L,  Penpergwin  House,  Rev.  J.  Lewis  ;  and 

m.  further,  on  the  1.,  Llanover  House,  Benj.  Waddington,  Esq.)  After 
passing  Colehrook  Park,  containing  an  assemblage  of  rural  beauties,  enter 
the  charming  vale  in  which  Abergavenny  and  Crickhowel  are  situated. 
(On  the  1.  to  Pont-y-Pool,  9  nfi-)  Colehrook  House,  John  Hanbury  Wil¬ 
liams,  Esq.,  on  the  r.,  and  within  -1  m.,  is  Dwywyn  Cottage.  Advancing 
along  the  road,  the  Blorenge  mountain  becomes  a  conspicuous  object,  down 
the  sides  of  which,  upon  three  inclined  planes,  may  be  heard  the  rattling  of 
the  tram-waggons,  laden  with  coals,  limestone,  &c.  Upon  this  mountain, 
which  was  found  so  productive,  that  in  one  instance  the  rent  has  been  ad¬ 
vanced  from  its  original  60/.  to  5000/.  per  year.  This  mountain  bounds 
the  view  on  the  1.,  while  the  Sugar-Loaf  towers  on  the  r.  Abergavenny, 

1  m.  Another  road  may  be  taken  to  Rockjield,  2  m.  (1  m.  from  Rock- 
field  on  the  r.,  is  Perthyr,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Powels,  now  possessed  by 
J.  Powel  Lorymor,  Esq.  ;  and  on  the  road  from  Rockfield,  2  m.  One  m. 
to  the  s.  are  the  small  remains  of  Grace  Dieu,  once  a  small  Cistercian 
Abbey,  founded  in  1229,  by  John  of  Monmouth.  A  farm  called  Pai'kers 
Hue,  corrupted  from  Parc  ’ras  Dieu,  is  the  site  of  the  original  lodge  be¬ 
longing  to  the  park  of  Grace  Dieu.  Some  traces  are  apparent  in  a  few 
fragments  of  hewn  stone  walls  adjoining  the  dairy.  A  fine  avenue  of 
ancient  elms,  on  the  banks  of  the  Trothy,  leads  to  the  remains  of  the  Abbey, 
which  consist  of  part  of  a  barn  and  a  few  detached  fragments  of  walls. 
The  meadows  here  are  exceedingly  rich  with  orchards,  which  yield  cider  of 
the  best  quality.  Llandeilo  Cresseney,  the  seat  of  Sergeant  Taddy,  is  a 
modern  house  built  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  mansion  of  the  Powells,  and 
pleasingly  situateel  in  a  rich  undulating  country,  to  the  s.  of  the  road, 
about  half  way  to  Abergavenny.  The  position  commands  an  interesting 
prospect  of  the  neighbouring  country  ;  and  in  the  home  view,  the  Church 
of  Llandeilo,  with  its  lofty  spire,  forms  a  picturesque  and  leading  object, 
5i  m.  In  an  adjoining  field  belonging  to  a  farm  which  was  formerly  the 
red-deer  park  of  Raglan  Castle,  is  the  site  of  Old  Court,  once  the  residence 
of  Sir  Havid  Gam. 

To  Ragland  Castle,  on  the  way  to  Abergavenny,  is  2  m.  further 
than  the  direct  road,  but  in  the  village  of  Ragland  is  a  good  posting  inn 
called  the  Beaufort  Arms.  Pass  2  m.  through  a  pleasant  valley  to  Wina- 
stow  (from  St.  Wona  and  the  Saxon  Stowe  a  place).  From  the  higher 
grounds  appear  the  Blorenge,  Yscaridd  Fawr,  and  Sugar  Loaf.  Treowen, 

2  m.,  is  a  fine  mansion.  Pass  over  the  Trothy  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill, 
and  enter  the  parish  of  Dingatstow,  in  British,  Llandingat,  the  church  of 
St.  Dingat.  Grace  Dieu  Ahhey  lies  1  m.  to  the  n.,  occupied  as  a  dwelling- 
house.  In  a  field  adjoining  the  road  on  the  1.,  after  passing  the  6th  m., 
stands  the  building  which  enclosed  the  well  that  supplied  Ragland  Castle 
with  water.  A  farm-house  beyond  the  well  is  called  the  Warrage,  being 
the  place  where  the  horses  belonging  to  tlie  Castle  were  kept. 

About  1  m.  on  the  n.  of  Llandeilo  are  the  ruins  of  White  Castle,  or 
Castell-gwyn,  from  Sir  Gwyn  ap  Gwaithfoed,  which  are  very  considerable, 
crowning  the  summit  of  a  ridgy  eminence.  Their  outline  is  irregular. 


MONMOUTH. 


443 


flanked  by  six  irregular  towers  ;  one  is  60  ft.  in  height ;  they  have  ram¬ 
parts^  and  are  pierced  with  eyelets.  Two  advancing  massive  towers  guard 
the  entrance,  which  was  provided  with  a  portcullis  and  drawbridge,  and  ren¬ 
dered  still  more  formidable  by  an  uncommonly  large  outwork  beyond  the 
moat,  which  is  from  14  to  18  ft.  deep,  and  from  40  to  70  ft*  broad.  Its 
antiquity  appears  to  be  at  least  coeval  with  the  first  settlement  of  the  Nor¬ 
mans  in  Gwent,  if  not  more  remote.  Mr.  D.  Williams  thinks  it  not  im¬ 
probable  that  Hameline  de  Baladin  obtained  it  at  the  conquest  of  Uj^per 
Gwent.  It  was  afterwards  possessed  by  the  family  of  Philpot,who  proba¬ 
bly  descended  from  Dyfnwall  ap  Cradock,  lord  of  Upper  Gwent,  who  mar¬ 
ried  the  daughter  of  Hameline.  Llanvapley,  m.  Cefenpendager,  21m. 
(-^  m.  on  the  r.  is  Werndu,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Progers.)  1.  m.  short  of 
Abergavenny,  on  the  r.  is  Tu  T>u,  late  Wm.  Din  woody.  Esq.  Aber¬ 
gavenny,  2|  m. 

On  sailing  down  the  TUye  to  Chepstow,  the  retrospect  is  pleasing; 
including  the  spire  of  the  church,  the  town,  bridge,  and  surrounding 
scenery.  The  hills  opposite  to  Monmouth,  called  the  Kymin  Rocks,  before 
described.  Approaching  the  junction  of  the  Monnow,  with  the  Wye,  the 
side  scenes  of  the  latter  increase  in  richness,  both  of  wood  and  verdure,  with 
pleasing  breaks  in  the  distance.  A  little  below  this  point,  a  small  river, 
called  the  Ti'otliy,  unites  with  the  W ye,  flowing  near  the  mansion  called 
Troy  House,  possessed  by  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  to  whom  it  descended 
from  Sir  Charles  Somerset.  (See  438.)  About  2  m.  below  Monmouth,  on 
the  r.,  appears  the  church  of  Penallt,  on  the  side  of  a  woody  eminence. 
Amid  rich,  beautiful,  and  fertile,  though  hilly,  scenery,  reach  Redbrook, 
which  separates  Monmouth  from  Gloucestershire,  where  is  a  manufactory 
of  iron  and  tin.  Half  a  m.  below,  the  Wye  receives  a  small  stream  called 
Whitebrook.  After  sailing  2  m.  from  Redbrook,  we  come  in  view  of  Wye 
Seal  House;  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r.,  in  a  hollow  vale,  stands  the  hamlet  of 
Whitebrook,  Upon  the  ruins  of  the  iron  works  here,  some  paper-mills  have 
been  erected.  A  considerable  eminence  appears  in  view  a  little  below  upon 
the  same  side,  called  Pen-y-fan  Hill,  which  exhibits  a  May-pole.  Passing 
the  Florence  public-house,  on  the  1.,  reach  the  New  AUeir ;  on  the  r. 
appears  the  neglected  house  of  Pilstone,  humbled  to  the  mere  appendage  of 
a  farm.  Beyond  Whitebrook,  the  river  forms  a  grand  sweep,  flowing  into 
an  abyss,. between  two  ranges  of  lofty  hills,  thickly  overspread  with  woods. 
At  about  the  distance  of  a  mile  stands  St.  Brievels,  upon  an  eminence  above 
the  river.  The  flne  remains  of  this  castle  indicate  that  it  has  been  of  con¬ 
siderable  extent,  and  of  great  strength.  It  was  built  by  Miles,  Earl  of 
Hereford,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  The  custody  of  St,  Brievels,  wdth  the 
Forest  of  Dean,  was  granted  to  John  de  Monmouth,  in  the  18th  year  of 
King  John.  The  Earl  of  Berkeley  is  the  present  constable,  and  the  Duke 
of  Beaufort,  under  whose  direction  the  castle  is  kept  in  repair,  is  lord  of 
the  manor.  The  w.  front  of  the  tower  is  used  as  a  prison.  Hence  the 
views  of  the  surrounding  country  are  extensive  and  beautiful.  There  is  a 
large  distribution  of  bread  here  every  Whitsunday.  Returning  to  the  boat, 
pass  Big's  Wear,  near  which  stands  the  house,  lately  the  residence  of 
General  James  Rooke,  whose  father  captured  Gibraltar.  Opposite,  on  the 
r.,  stand  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  mansion  of  Pilstone,  formerly  the  seat  of 
the  family  of  Perkins. 

Through  a  range  of  beautiful  scenery  pass  the  singular  village  of  Llandogo, 
scattered  among  trees  upon  the  side  of  a  hill.  Here  the  river  forms  a  smooth 
bay,  over  which  the  vessels  glide  or  lay  moored  to  take  their  freight.  The 
undulating  hills  called  the  HudnelVs,  or  Head  Knoll,  form  a  beautiful  back- 


444 


MONMOUTH. 


ground  to  this  charming  scene.  A  little  below  is  Coedithel  Weir,  whence 
drop  pleasantly  down  the  stream  to  another  village  called  Brook  Weir,  half 
way  from  Monmouth  to  Chepstow.  Goods  from  the  former  place  are  here 
shipped  and  conveyed  in  larger  vessels  to  Bristol.  The  tourist  may  land  at 
this  village^  proceed  along  a  lane  called  Caswell  Wood,  and  arrive  at  the 
summit  of  the  passage  hill^  called  Crowstone.  The  distance  is  not  above  a 
mile^  where  he  is  presented  with  a  sudden  pleasing  and  distinct  view  of 
Tintern  Abbey.  After  descending,  he  must  cross  over  at  the  ferry  to  what 
is  called  the  Old  Abbey.  The  first  object  on  turning  the  point  at  Llyn  Weir 
the  little  church  of  Tintern  Parva,  about  1  m.  from  Brook  Weir.  It  is  seated 
only  a  fewyards  from  the  side  of  the  river,  having  a  very  singular  appearance. 
This  village  is  supposed  to  be  the  original  Tintern.  The  river,  in  an  easy 
meandering  course,  soon  introduces  a  view  the  most  picturesque,  including  the 

SPLENDID  AND  VERY  ELEGANT  RUINS  OF  TINTERN  ABBEY, 

(so  called  from  Din  and  Teyrn,  i.e,  a  sovereign’s  fortress),  which  appears  with 
great  effect  from  the  river.  On  approaching  this  venerable  relic,  the  steep 
hills  and  hanging  woods,  the  rolling  stream,  the  nodding  ruin,  the  surviving 
monuments  of  falling  grandeur  and  beauty  in  decay  ;  the  opening  vacancy, 
stillness  and  retirement,  all  aid  the  enthusiasm  of  the  spectator,  who  forgets 
for  a  moment  that  he  is  connected  with  the  busy  world  !  AVho  does  not 
regret  the  wreck  and  desolation  here  made  by  the  first  Henry,  who,  under 
the  pretence  of  religious  zeal,  displayed  the  ravaging  arm  of  an  insensible 
barbarian  ?  The  landlord  at  the  Beaufort  Arms  is  the  loquacious  Cicerone  of 
the  ruin.  This  abbey,  the  glory  of  monastic  ruins  and  gem  of  the  Wye,” 
was  erected  for  monks  of  the  Cistercian  order,  and  founded  in  the  year  1131, 
by  Walter  Fitz  Richard  de  Clare,  who  dedicated  it  to  the  Virgin  Mary.  The 
site  was  granted,  in  the  28th  of  Henry  VIII,,  to  Henry  Earl  of  Worcester, 
and  is  now  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Beaufort.  In  the  ruins  of  Tintern, 
the  original  construction  of  the  church  is  perfectly  defined ;  and  it  is  prin¬ 
cipally  from  this  circumstance  that  they  are  celebrated  as  a  subject  of  curi¬ 
osity  and  contemplation.  From  Tintern,  in  walking  to  the  Abbey,  pass  the 
works  of  an  Iron-foundery,  and  a  train  of  cottages,  completely  ingrafted  on 
the  ruins.  This  disagreeable  and  confined  approach  is  not  calculated  to 
inspire  any  one  with  a  very  high  estimation  of  what  he  is  about  to  view ; 
but  on  throwing  open  the  w.  door  of  the  church,  an  effect  so  majestic  and 
singular  charms  the  spectator,  that  words  cannot  convey  an  adequate  idea  of 
the  scene.  The  walls  are  almost  entire  ;  the  roof  only  is  fallen  in.  “  The 
vault  of  heaven  alone  forms  its  canopy,  and  the  flower  of  the  field  constitutes 
its  pavement,  the  floor  of  enamelled  tiles  having  been  removed  by  the  hands 
of  the  sacrilegious  spoiler.”  Most  of  the  columns  which  divided  the  aisles 
are  still  standing ;  of  those  which  have  dropped  down,  the  bases  remain, 
each  exactly  in  its  place.  In  the  middle  of  the  nave,  four  lofty  arches, 
which  once  supported  the  tower,  rise  above  the  rest ;  they  are  now  reduced 
to  a  narrow  rim  of  stone,  but  completely  preserving  its  form.  The  shapes 
of  the  windows  are  little  altered  ;  some  are  quite  obscured;  others  partially 
shaded  by  tufts  of  ivy ;  and  those  which  are  most  clear,  are  edged  with  its 
slender  tendrils  and  lighter  foliage,  wreathing  about  the  sides  and  the  divi¬ 
sions.  A  true  parasite,  this  creeper  winds  rounds  the  pillars,  clings  to  the  walls, 
and  in  one  of  the  aisles  clusters  at  the  top,  in  bunches  so  thick  and  so  large 
as  to  darken  the  space  below.  The  other  aisles,  and  the  great  nave,  are 
exposed  to  the  sky ;  the  floor  being  entirely  overspread  with  turf.  Monkish 
tombstones,  and  the  monuments  of  benefactors  formerly  appeared  above  the 


MONMOUTH, 


445 


green  sward  :  the  bases  of  the  pillars  rose  out  of  it ;  and  maimed  effigies  and 
sculpture_,  worn  with  age  and  weather,  were  scattered  about,  or  lay  in  heaps. 
Other  shattered  pieces,  though  disjointed  and  mouldering,  occupied  their 
original  places  :  nothing  is  perfect ;  but  memorials  of  every  part  still  subsist ; 
all  certain,  but  all  in  decay ;  and  suggesting,  at  once,  every  idea  which  can 
occur  in  a  seat  of  devotion,  solitude,  and  desolation.  The  removal  of  these 
venerable  relics,”  observes  a  recent  writer,  has  been  blamed  as  ‘  foolish 
and  injurious,  answ^ering  no  purpose.’  However  this  may  be,  the  public  are 
greatly  indebted  to  the  illustrious  proprietor  of  this  ruin  for  his  endeavours 
to  protect  it  from  the  caustic  ravages  of  time.  And  unless  a  tasteful  opu¬ 
lence  now  puts  forth  its  powerful  energies,  these  isles  will  shortly  be  despoiled 
of  those  most  attractive  ornaments,  whose  every  arch  infuses  a  solemn  energy 
as  it  were  into  inanimate  nature  ;  a  sublime  antiquity  breathes  mildly  into 
the  heart ;  and  the  soul  appears  susceptible  of  that  state  of  tranquillity  which 
is  the  perfection  of  every  earthly  wish.”  The  following  sonnet,  lately  pub¬ 
lished,  is  fondly  descriptive  of  this  splendid  ruin  :  — 

“  Full  twenty  years,  like  dreams,  have  pass’d  away 
Since  last  I  look’d  upon  thy  awful  form ; 

And  though  full  many  a  change  I’ ve  known,  yet  warm 
And  fresh  (as  in  life’s  earliest,  brightest  day) 

My  heart  —  that  knows, no  change  —  delights  once  more 
To  feel  the  influence  of  that  beauty  stern 
Which  first  inspired  my  breast,  and  made  it  burn 
With  love  of  nature,  and  of  antique  lore. 

Still  peaceful  —  still  the  same,  dear  holy  pile ! 

Thou  standest  in  thy  majesty —  sublime  — 

As  when  I  frolick’d  in  thy  turf-clad  aisle. 

In  the  sweet  days  of  childhood’s  rosy  prime  ! 

Oh  !  thus  —  till  life  decays  —  with  joy  profound 
Oft  let  me  tread  this  consecrated  ground  !  ” 

This  edifice,  still  beauteous  in  decay,  occupies  a  gentle  eminence  in  the 
middle  of  a  circular  valley,  screened  on  all  sides  by  woody  hills  ;  through 
these  the  river  Wye  winds  its  course;  and  closing  both  on  its  entrance  and 
exit,  they  leave  no  room  for  inclement  blasts  to  enter.  A  more  pleasing 
retreat  could  not  be  found.  The  woods  and  glades  intermixed  ;  the  wind¬ 
ing  of  the  river  ;  the  variety  of  the  ground  ;  the  splendid  ruin,  contrasted 
with  the  objects  of  nature,  and  the  elegant  line  formed  by  the  summits  of 
the  hills,  which  include  the  Avhole ;  make,  altogether,  a  very  enchanting 
piece  of  scenery.  From  the  length  of  the  nave,  the  height  of  the  walls,  the 
aspiring  form  of  the  pointed  arches,  and  the  size  of  the  e.  window,  which 
closes  the  perspective,  the  first  impressions  are  those  of  grandeur  and  sub¬ 
limity  :  but  as  these  emotions  subside,  and  we  descend  from  the  contem¬ 
plation  of  the  whole  to  the  examination  of  the  parts,  we  are  no  less  struck 
with  the  regularity  of  the  plan,  the  lightness  of  the  architecture,  and  the 
delicacy  of  the  ornaments.  We  feel  that  elegance  is  its  characteristic  no 
less  than  grandeur,  and  that  the  whole  is  a  combination  of  the  beautiful  and 
sublime.  This  church  is  cruciform,  and  an  excellent  specimen  of  the  English 
architecture  in  its  greatest  purity.  The  length  of  the  nave  and  choir  is  218  ft., 
their  width  33.  The  length  of  the  transept  is  150  ft.  The  arches  and 
pillars  of  the  two  latter  are  complete;  and  the  frame  of  the  w.  window  is 
in  perfect  preservation  ;  the  design  of  the  tracery  is  extremely  elegant,  and, 
when  decorated  with  painted  glass,  must  have  produced  a  fine  effect.  The 
general  form  of  the  e.  window  is  entire,  but  the  frame  is  much  dilapidated  : 
it  occupies  the  whole  breadth  of  the  choir,  and  is  divided  into  two  large  and 
equal  compartments,  by  a  slender  shaft  not  less  than  50  ft.  in  height,  which 


446 


MONMOUTH. 


has  an  appearance  of  singular  lightness^  and^  in  particular  points  of  view, 
seems  suspended  in  the  air.  Instead  of  dilapidated  fragments,  overspread 
with  weeds  and  choaked  with  brambles,  the  floor  being  covered  with  a  smooth 
turf,  keeps  the  original  level  of  the  church,  exhibits  the  beauty  of  its  pro¬ 
portion,  heightens  the  effect  of  the  grey  stone,  gives  a  relief  to  the  clustered 
pillars,  and  affords  an  easy  access  to  every  part.  Although  the  exterior  ap¬ 
pearance  of  the  ruins  is  not  equal  to  the  inside  view,  yet  in  some  positions, 
particularly  to  the  e.,  they  present  themselves  with  considerable  effect. 
About  4-  m.  from  the  ferry,  down  the  river,  the  ruins  assume  a  new  cha¬ 
racter.  The  grand  e.  window,  wholly  covered  with  shrubs,  and  half  mantled 
with  ivy,  rises  like  the  portal  of  a  majestic  edifice  embowered  with  w'ood. 
Through  this  opening,  and  along  the  vista  of  the  church,  the  clusters  of  ivy, 
which  twine  round  the  pillars,  or  hang  suspended  from  the  arches,  resemble 
tufts  of  trees,  while  the  thick  mantle  of  foliage,  seen  through  the  tracery  of 
the  w.  window,  forms  a  continuation  of  the  perspective,  and  appears  like  an 
interminable  forest.  “  When  we  stood  at  one  end  of  this  awful  piece  of 
ruin,  and  surveyed  the  whole  in  one  view,”  says  the  Rev.  Mr.  Gilpin,  “  the 
elements  of  air  and  earth,  its  only  covering  and  pavement;  and  the  grand 
and  venerable  remains  which  terminated  both,  perfect  enough  to  form  the 
perspective,  yet  broken  enough  to  destroy  the  regularity,  the  eye  was  above 
measure  delighted  with  the  beauty,  the  greatness,  and  novelty  of  the  scene,” 

“  How  many  hearts  have  here  grown  cold 

That  sleep  these  mouldering  stones  among  I 
How  many  beads  have  here  been  told  ! 

How  many  matins  here  been  sung  ! 

“  On  this  rude  stone,  by  time  long  broke, 

I  think  I  see  some  pilgrim  kneel, 

I  think  I  see  the  censor  smoke, 

1  think  I  hear  the  solemn  peal. 

“  But  here  no  more  soft  music  floats, 

No  holy  anthems  chanted  now  ; 

All  hush’d,  except  the  ring-dove’s  notes. 

Low  murm’ring  from  yon  beachen  bough.” 

Sir  Richard  Hoare  asserts  that  this  abbey  (as  to  the  first  coup  d'asil) 
exceeds  every  ruin  he  had  seen  either  in  England  or  Wales.”  The  most 
beautiful  effect,  on  visiting  these  ruins,  is  enjoyed  by  moonlight.  Under 
the  silvery  beams  of  the  pale  orb  of  night,  the  lights  and  shadow^s  are  inde¬ 
scribably  fine,  and  solemnly  grand. 

Up  a  woody  vale,  2  m.  from  Tintern,  through  which  runs  the  CatbrooJv, 
upon  a  pleasant  eminence,  is  a  cold  bath  called  the  JVine  Wells,  from  the  cir¬ 
cumstance  of  being  produced  from  nine  small  springs,  which  rise  within  a 
short  distance  one  from  the  other.  Two  m.  further  w.  is  Trellecli,  where 
there  is  a  fine  chalybeate  spring,  called  the  Virtuous  Well.  Up  a  vale  to  the 
N.w.  of  the  abbey  are  extensive  iron  and  wire  works.  Leaving  this  interesting 
valley,  and  pursuing  the  windings  of  the  river,  take  a  farewell  view  of  the 
lofty  E.  window  of  the  abbey,  obscured  by  varied  foliage.  Pass  Plumb  Weir, 
Stow  Weir.  Reach  Walweir,  with  some  grand  'tvoody  acclivities  on  the  h, 
called  Walweir  Slades.  Nearly  opposite  the  Live  Oak’s  Farm-house,  reach 
Hook  Weir.  An  extensive  range  of  craggy  woodlands,  called  Ban.y-cor, 
next  rises,  forming  the  1.  boundary  of  the  Prior  s  Reach.  The  half-way 
spot  from  Tintern  to  Chepstow  is  called  Live  Oak’s  Troughs  Weir.  High 
on  the  r.  towers  the  sublime  eminence  of  Wind  Cliff,  its  side  shrouded  with 
thick  underwood,  and  its  summit  crowned  with  lofty  firs. 


MONMOUTH. 


447 


A  few  paces  immediately  below  the  summit  of  the  rise  is  an  excavation, 
with  a  wall  in  front  and  a  seat  on  which  the  visitor  can  enjoy,  unawed  by 
fear,  this  interesting  spot  with  perfect  safety,  ease,  and  convenience.  In  the 
foreground  we  look  down  a  declivity  of  200  ft.,  beautifully  intermingled 
with  rock  and  wood  as  far  as  the  Grotto  Cottage;  passing  the  New  Road,  and 
carrying  the  eye  down  the  same  surface  of  wood  and  rock  to  an  extent  of 
200  ft.  more,  we  meet  the  river,  beyond  which  the  peninsular  farm  of  Lan- 
caut  spreads  its  captivating  charms,  bounded  by  the  cliffs,  its  natural  bulwarks, 
compared  with  which  other  objects,  however  grand  in  themselves,  appear 
but  as  a  mere  house  of  cards.  Bringing  the  eye  farther  round  to  the  right, 
the  Twelve  Apostles,  and  St.  Peter’s  Thumb,  the  Lover’s  Leap,  terribly 
sublime,  looking  immediately  down  180  ft.,  upon  a  vast  hollow  of  wood  ; 
the  beautiful  park  and  house  of  Piercefield,  the  fine  cultivated  district  of 
St.  Arvon’s  and  its  neighbourhood,  are  the  attractive  objects  in  this  part  of 
the  view.  Here  the  distance  well  deserves  the  epithet  —  astonishing!  The 
face  of  Nature  probably  affords  not  a  more  magnificent  scene  !  Lancaut  in 
all  its  grandeur ;  the  grounds  of  Piercefield ;  the  castle  and  town  of  Chep¬ 
stow;  the  graceful  windings  of  the  Wye  below,  and  its  conflux  with  the 
Severn;  to  the  1.,  the  Forest  of  Dean;  to  the  r.,  the  rich  marches  and 
picturesque  mountains  of  S.  W ales ;  a  broad  view  of  the  Severn  opening  its 
sea-like  mouth ;  the  conflux  of  the  Avon,  with  ships  at  anchor  in  King 
Road,  and  various  vessels  under  sail ;  Aust  Cliff,  and  the  whole  vale  of 
Berkley,  backed  by  the  wooded  swells  of  Gloucestershire :  the  view  termin¬ 
ating  in  clouds  of  distant  hills,  rising  one  behind  another  until  the  eye 
becomes  unable  to  distinguish  the  earth’s  billowy  surface  from  the  clouds 
themselves.”  (Extracted  from  the  late  Mr.  Heath’s  Account  of  Tintern 
Abbey,  a  writer  to  whose  topographical  and  antiquarian  researches  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood  of  Monmouth  is  greatly  indebted.) 

The  Wye  here  takes  a  most  fantastic  sweep  round  the  fertile  peninsula  of 
Llancaut.  Opposite  to  Walter’s  Weir,  in  Piercefield  Cliffs,  is  a  cavein, 
where  an  unsuccessful  search  was  made  for  lead  ore  by  Col.  Wood,  formerly 
proprietor  of  the  estate.  In  these  cliffs,  just  before  we  arrive  at  Llancaut 
church,  are  twelve  large  projecting  rocks,  bearing  the  names  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles ;  a  thirteenth  is  denominated  St.  Peter's  Thumb.  They  resemble 
the  bastions  of  a  castle,  and  return  a  surprising  reverberation  of  sound.  The 
peninsula  of  Llancaut  contains  two  farms.  Its  little  church  appears  upon 
the  brow,  a  few  yards  from  the  river.  Just  below  is  an  elegant  box,  called 
The  Marine  Cottage,  built  upon  the  site  of  Llancaut  Fish  House,  by  the 
late  Samuel  Stephens,  Esq. 

In  a  charming  situation  is  Wye  Cottage.  In  the  opposite  mead,  on  the 
r.  the  Wye  has  made  a  singular  excavation,  called  Wye  Creek.  At  the  lower 
extremity  of  this  hamlet  the  river  runs  quickly  to  the  r.,  and  produces  the 
extensive  reach  of  Long  Hope,  bounded  by  the  stupendous  white  cliffs  of 
Llancaut  on  the  1.,  and  the  beautiful  groves  of  Piercefield  on  the  r.  At  a 
short  distance  from  whence  the  line  is  broken  is  a  pass  between  the  rocks, 
called  the  Timber  Shoot.  Sir  John  Winter,  of  Lydney,  rode  down  this 
steep  when  pursued  by  Cromwell’s  troops,  whence  he  swam  over  into  Mon¬ 
mouthshire  and  escaped.  Towards  the  end  of  this  reach  an  Alcove  in  the 
wood  appears  on  the  r. ;  it  is  the  object  which  closes  the  s.  point  of  Pierce¬ 
field  Walks.  A  circular  bend  of  the  river  next  discovers  the  noble  ruin  of 
Chepstow  Castle,  placed  upon  the  highest  part  of  an  immense  perpen¬ 
dicular  rock.  This  majestic  relic  of  former  feudal  grandeur  here  assumes 
a  most  imposing  aspect.  The  ancient  Gothic  entrance,  partly  in  ruins  ;  the 
irregular  breaks  and  prominences  in  the  form  of  the  building,  which  is  a 


448 


MONTGOMERY. 


mixture  of  the  Norman  and  Saxon  styles^  are  in  many  parts  overgrown  with 
large  clumps  of  ivy  and  variegated  shrubs ;  sometimes  beautifully  clustered 
among  the  fragments  of  the  castle,  and  again  falling  down  and  enriching 
the  white  and  awful  cliff  below.  The  adjoining  bridge  is  calculated  to  im¬ 
prove  the  general  effect  of  the  landscape,  to  which  must  be  added  the  im¬ 
mense  Tutshill  Cliffs. 


To  Grosmont,  7  miles,  Barber  ;  foot  road,  6  miles. 
Returned  from  Grosmont  to  Monmouth,  thence 
to  Abergavenny,  16^  miles.  Barber. 

Down  the  Wye  to  Gopdrich  Castle,  10  m.  Coxe. 
Along  the  Wye.  Barber  ;  Manby. 

To  Chepstow,  1.5i  miles.  Wyndham. 

Tintern  Abbey,  lOj  miles.  Skrine. 


To  Abergavenny,  by  Clytha,  16  miles.  Skrine. 
Hereford,  18  miles. 

Gloucester,  26  miles. 

Usk,  through  Ragland,  13  m.  :  the  lower  road, 
11  miles. 

Pont-y-Pool,  through  Ragland,  20  miles. 
Ragland,  8  miles. 


MONTGOMERY. 

From  Newtown,  Similes.  Pennant;  Bingley  ;  From  Welshpool,  7|  miles.  Wyndham;  War- 
Pugh.  '  ner. 

Llanfair,  Montgom.,  through  Castell  Caer 
Einion,  12  miles.  Evans;  Skrine. 

MONTGOMERY,  in  M^elsh  Tre  Valdwyn,  so  called  from  Baldwyn,  a 
Norman  adventurer,  and  lieutenant  of  the  Lordships  Marchers  by  the  appoint¬ 
ment  of  William  the  Conqueror,  Roger  de  Montgomery,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury, 
afterwards  took  tlie  castle  and  town,  which  assumed  the  name  of  its  second 
founder.  The  following  year  the  W elsh  gained  the  castle  by  a  coup-de-mam. 
It  was  soon  repaired  by  William  Rufus  ;  but  hearing  the  W elsh  were  insub¬ 
ordinate,  he  left  Normandy,  collected  a  large  army,  and  advanced  with  a  de¬ 
sign  to  resist  their  incursions.  The  W elsh, however, under  Gryffydd  ap  Cynan, 
and  the  sons  of  Bleddin  ap  Cynvyn,  repulsed  him ;  he  then  returned  to  Eng¬ 
land,  leaving  a  garrison  only  at  Montgomery  Castle.  During  this  absence  the 
Welsh  besieged  the  castle,  took  it  by  storm,  gave  no  quarter,  and  levelled  the 
fortress.  At  length  the  Normans  prevailed.  This  fortress  was  then  rebuilt 
by  the  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  but  in  a  century  afterwards  was  again  destroyed. 
Llywelyn  made  a  treaty  with  Henry  III.,  but  having  violated  it,  the 
latter  marched  a  powerful  army,  and  after  a  victorious  campaign,  rebuilt 
the  castle  of  Montgomery  on  a  more  advantageous  site.  When  completed, 
he  confided  the  custody  of  it  to  his  great  justiciary,  Hubert  de  Burgh  ;  the 
W elsh  besieged  it,  but  an  English  army  came  to  its  relief,  and,  according 
to  Lewis,  “  putting  the  greater  number  to  the  sword,  conveyed  the  remainder 
captives  into  the  castle,  where,  by  the  command  of  Hubert,  they  were 
delivered  to  the  executioner,  and  their  heads  sent  as  a  present  to  the  Eng¬ 
lish  monarch.”  Llywelyn  ab  Jorwerth,  enraged  at  these  indignities,  col¬ 
lected  numerous  forces,  and  encamped  near  the  castle.  The  governor,  being 
intimidated,  withdrew,  when  Llywelyn,  having  possession  of  the  place,  in 
retaliation,  put  all  the  garrison  to  the  sword,  and  burnt  the  fortress.  In 
1268,  through  the  mediation  of  Ottoborn,  the  pope’s  legate,  a  peace  was 
concluded  between  the  contending  parties.  The  castle  appears  to  have  been 
in  tbe  possession  of  Roger  Mortimer,  a  Lord  Marcher,  at  the  time  of  his 
decease,  A.  n.  1354,  with  the  hundred  of  Chirbury.  It  passed  into  the 
royal  house  of  York,  and  thence  to  the  crown.  This  fortress  seems  to  have 
been  held  by  the  ancestors  of  Lord  Herbert  of  Chirbury,  as  stewards  of  the 
crown,  and  was  the  principal  residence  of  that  family.  {Life  of  Loj'd 
Herbert,  p.  5.)  During  the  parliamentary  wars  it  was  garrisoned  for  the 
King  by  Lord  Herbert;  but  on  the  approach  of  the  parliamentarian  army, 
he  immediately  surrendered,  and  by  treaty  with  Sir  Thomas  Myddleton, 
the  royal  garrison  was  replaced  by  one  of  republican  soldieiy.  A  short 


MONTGOMERY, 


449 


time  after^  Lord  Byron  advanced  with  4000  soldiers_,  and  compelled  Sir 
Thomas  and  his  army  to  make  a  precipitate  retreat  to  Oswestry,  leaving 
Lord  Herbert  with  a  very  few  men.  It  was  besieged  by  the  king’s  party  ; 
in  the  meantime.  Sir  T.  Myddleton’s  army,  with  reinforcements,  made  a 
countermarch  to  relieve  the  place,  under  the  conduct  of  Brereton,  Meldrum, 
and  Fairfax.  A  general  engagement  succeeded.  The  royalists  amounted 
to  5000,  the  parliamentarians  to  3000.  After  a  dreadful  conflict,  the 
latter  obtained  a  decisive  victory;  500  royalists  were  slain,  and  1400  taken 
prisoners;  the  loss  of  the  parliamentarians  was  about  60  killed,  and  100 
wounded.  {Whitelock,  104.)  This  castle  met  the  fate  of  others,  being  dis¬ 
mantled  by  order  of  parliament.  It  stood  upon  the  extremity  of  a  lofty 
projecting^eminence  on  the  n.  side  of  the  town,  and  is  said  to  have  been  a 
majestic  building.  From  the  remains,  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  either  its 
original  shape  or  extent.  The  present  fragments  consist  of  a  small  part  of 
a  tower  at  the  s.w.  angle,  and  a  few  low  broken  walls.  The  fortress  was 
defended  by  four  deep  fosses,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock.  Not  far  from  the 
castle,  situated  upon  a  hill,  is  a  very  extensive  British  post,  the  approach 
of  which  is  guarded  by  four  deep  dikes,  with  two  or  three  entrances  to  the 
main  work.  At  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  on  the  road  leading  to  Caer-mill 
is  Caer-Jlos,  a  smaller  fortification,  having  on  the  w.  a  raised  artificial  mount. 
This  was  probably  the  site  of  a  castle  originally  erected  by  Baldwyn,  in  the 
Norman  style.  Montgomery  was  defended  by  a  wall,  flanked  with  round 
and  square  bastion  towers,  and  entered  by  four  gates,  respectively  called 
Arthur’s,  Cedewen,  Ceri,  and  Chirbury  Gates,  now  scarcely  to  be  traced  ; 
The  town  has  separate  jurisdiction,  and  is  locally  situated  in  the  lower 
division  of  the  hundred  of  Montgomery,  The  living  is  a  rectory,  valued 
in  the  king’s  hooks  at  l']l.  4.9.  4^c?.  ;  patron,  the  king.  The  resident 
population  of  this  parish  in  1831,  was  1188.  It  has  five  annual  fairs, 
March  ^6.,  first  Thursday  in  May,  June  7-5  Sept.  4.,  Nov,  14.  Market 
on  Tuesday.  Inn,  the  Dragon.  The  borough  of  Montgomery  sends  one 
member  to  parliament  ;  the  bailiffs  are  the  returning  officers.  It  was 
incorporated  in  the  11th  of  Henry  III.,  and  is  governed  by  a  High 
Steward,  2  bailiffs,  12  burgesses,  &c.  Llanidloes,  FYelshpool,  Llanfyllin, 
and  Machynlleth,  in  the  return  of  one  member  to  parliament,  formerly 
ranked  as  con  tributary  boroughs,  but  were  disfranchised  in  1728.  By  a 
recent  act,  they  are  again  permitted  to  share  in  the  return  of  a  member, 
the  elective  franchise  being  extended  to  the  duly  qualified  resident  inha¬ 
bitants.  Here  is  a  small  endowed  School.  The  parish  contains  about 
2000  acres  of  inclosed  and  cultivated  land,  and  the  poor  are  maintained 
in  the  house  of  industry  at  Forden.  The  present  town  is  small,  and 
romantically  situated  in  the  hollow  of  an  eminence  ;  it  is  clean,  chiefly 
built  with  brick,  and  not  inelegant.  Having  no  trade,  and  not  being  a 
thoroughfare  to  any  place  of  eminence,  are  circumstances  which  may  account 
for  the  diminutive  size  of  this  county  town.  The  situation  is  inviting,  on 
account  of  being  in  a  plentiful  and  delightful  country.  From  the  eminence 
above  Montgomery  is  a  fine,  extensive,  and  rich  view  of  the  vale,  finely 
bounded  by  the  Salopian  Hills.  The  Church,  dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas, 
is  a  venerable  cruciform  structure,  in  the  early  English  style,  with  a  tower 
erected  by  Lord  Clive  in  1816,  at  the  expense  of  1700/.  The  chancel  is 
separated  from  the  nave  by  an  exquisitely  carved  screen  and  ancient  rood- 
loft,  removed  from  the  priory  of  Chirbury,  at  the  dissolution  of  that 
establishment.  In  the  s.  transept  is  a  sumptuous  monument  to  the  me¬ 
mory  of  Richard  Herbert,  Esq.,  father  of  the  celebrated  Lord  Herbert, 
of  Chirbury,  and  Magdalene,  his  wife,  in  which  are  two  recumbent  figures 

Q  o 


450 


MONTGOMERY. 


on  an  altar  tomb,  under  a  magnificent  canopy,  once  richly  ornamented.  In 
front  of  the  sarcophagus  are  effigies  of  their  numerous  progeny.  The 
house,  2  m.  s.  w.,  called  Blackhall^  once  the  hospitable  residence  of  this 
family,  stood  below  the  town  ;  a  foss  marks  the  spot.  It  was  consumed  by 
fire  ;  and  the  lodge  in  Lymore  Park,  at  a  short  distance,  was  enlarged  on  this 
occasion  :  it  still  presents  a  venerable  front  of  timber  framework  and  plaster. 
It  is  one  of  the  seats  of  Lord  Clive.  The  chivalrous,  gallant,  philosophic, 
and  whimsical  Edward  Herbert,  first  baron  of  Chirbury,  negotiator,  scholar, 
statesman,  and  soldier,  was  born  at  Montgomery  in  1583.  Abraham  Rees, 
D.D.,  author  of  the  well  known  cyclopaedia  which  bears  his  name,  was  born 
here  in  1743.  He  died  in  1825,  having  obtained  his  degree  at  the  express 
recommendation  of  Robertson  the  historian.  Near  the  site  of  the  castle 
stands  the  county  gaol,  a  strong  modern  stone  building.  In  the  upper  part 
of  the  town  is  erected  the  Guildhall,  a  handsome  edifice,  where  the  sessions 
are  held  alternately  with  Welshpool.  Among  the  various  privileges  claimed 
by  the  burgesses  of  this  place,  is  the  use  of  the  Goging  stool,  or  Cucking 
stool,  perhaps  a  corruption  of  ducking  stool.  The  engine  consisted  of  a  long 
beam,  or  rafter,  that  moved  upon  a  fulcrum,  and  extended  towards  the 
centre  of  a  river  or  pond  ;  upon  the  end  over  the  water  was  affixed  a  chair, 
upon  which  the  culprit  was  compelled  to  sit,  with  her  feet  naked.  Scolds, 
and  disorderly  women  were,  by  this  means,  either  exposed  a  certain  time, 
or  immersed  in  the  water. 

Pursuing  the  banks  of  the  Severn  to  Welshpool,  on  the  1.  of  the  turn¬ 
pike-road  from  Newtown,  is  a  large  Roman  encampment,  called  Caer-fios, 
3  m.  ,*  and  \  m.  farther  is  Caer  House,  the  seat  of  Major  Harrison.  On  the  r. 
occurs  the  workhouse,  erected  at  the  joint  expense  of  eight  contiguous 
parishes.  Half  m.  w.  of  the  river  stands  Garthmill  Hall,  the  seat  of  Mrs. 
H.  R.  Jones,  and  to  r..  Lower  Garthmill,  Edward  Johnes,  Esq.,  M.  D.  ; 
further  tu  the  1.  is  Cefn  Garthmill,  lower  is  Crow  Hall.  Close  to  the 
stream  is  Gian  Severn,  the  seat  of  William  Owen,  Esq.  Here  the  RMw 
falls  into  the  Severn.  Berriew,  or  Aher  RMw,  1  m,,  is  a  large  village,  con¬ 
taining  a  modern  Church,  dedicated  to  Beuno,  and  an  endowed  school.  At 
a  short  distance  is  Vaynor  Park,  a  venerable  seat,  formerly  the  property  of 
the  Price’s  and  Deverux’s,  now  of  Mrs.  Winder.  The  river  Camlet  falls, 
not  far  hence,  into  the  Severn.  The  village  of  Forden  is  3  m.  distant  from 
Berriew ;  it  contains  a  chapel  of  ease  to  Chirbury,  Salop.  At  a  short  distance 
is  Nant  Crihha  Hall,  one  of  the  seats  of  Viscount  Hereford.  About  1  m. 
w.  of  the  Severn  lies  the  mansion  of  Brithdir,  watered  by  the  Luggy,  which 
falls  into  the  Severn.  Edderton  House  next  appears  on  the  e.  of  the  river. 
After  passing  this  place,  the  wooden  bridge  of  Kilkewydd,  2  m.,  next  occurs, 
over  which  is  the  road  from  Chirbury  to  AVelshpool.  Below  this  bridge, 
where  a  small  stream  falls  into  the  Severn,  is  Glayi  Havren,  formerly  the 
property  of  the  Jones’s,  now  of  Miss  Buckley.  Leighton  Hall,  2  m.,  the 
seat  of  Panton  Corbett,  Esq.,  is  seated  upon  the  declivity  of  Mynnydd 
Digoll.  Continuing  to  wind  with  the  meanderings  of  the  stream,  when 
within  J-  m.  from  Welshpool.  Powys  Castle  becomes  distinctly  defined, 
[See  Welshpool.]  In  pursuing  this  route,  and  others  which  lie  upon  the 
banks  of  rivers,  it  is  evident  that  pedestrians,  in  their  researches,  should 
be  like  botanists,  never  out  of  their  way  ;  such  routes,  it  is  true,  are  always 
circuitous,  and  occupy  more  time  than  turnpike-roads,  but  generally  prove 
far  more  interesting. 

Near  one  of  the  remains  of  the  towers  of  the  Castle,  grows  Potentilla 
argentea. 

Many  pleasing  erections  occupy  the  most  attractive  points  in  the  adjacent 


MONTGOMERY. 


45  i 

country,  inhabited  by  families  of  small  independent  fortunes,  who  prefer  this 
neighbourhood  as  a  place  of  retirement.  About  5  m.  from  Montgomery 
is  the  Long  Mountain,  or  Cefn  Digol,  celebrated  as  the  spot  where  Welsh 
liberty  gave  its  expiring  groan.  Here  was  fought  the  last  contested  battle 
between  the  hirelings  of  oppression  and  the  surviving  hordes  of  the  fallen 
principality.  After  the  death  of  Llywelyri,  the  northern  sons  of  Cambria 
elected  Madog,  his  cousin,  for  their  leader.  He  assembled  a  great  armament, 
and  having  gained  several  signal  victories  at  Caernarvon,  Denbigh,  Knochin, 
and  on  the  Marches,  they  were  here  overthrown  in  1294,  by  the  collective 
power  of  the  Lords  Marchers,  after  a  long  contested  engagement. 

Cross  the  Severn,  near  Glanhafren,  Miss  Buckley.  Turn  a  little  out  of 
the  road  to  Powys  Castle,  situated  upon  an  eminence  to  the  1.  [See 
Welshpool.] 

An  act  for  the  Montgomery  canal  was  obtained  34  Geo.  3.  It  unites 
with  a  branch  of  the  Ellesmere  very  near  Llan-y-mynach,  and  there  crosses 
the  river  Ternwy,  where  it  joins  another  branch  of  the  same  canal;  then 
goes  by  Gwern-felu,  where  a  cut  branches  off  to  Guilsjield  and  Welshpool ; 
and  thence  proceeds  nearly  parallel  with  the  Severn,  by  Berriew  to  New¬ 
town  in  Montgomeryshire.  This  canal  is  27  m.  long,  besides  the  cuts, 
and  the  lockage  is  225  ft.  Quarries  of  lime  and  freestone,  slate,  &c.  and 
mines  of  coal,  lead,  and  other  minerals  occur  on  the  borders. 

At  the  distance  of  2L  m.,  on  the  Shrewsbury  road,  stands  Chirhury. 
The  priory  was  founded  in  the  reign  of  King  John  for  monks  of  the  order 
of  St.  Bennet.  The  canons  of  this  monastery  had  a  grant  of  the  tithes  of 
Montgomery  wood  and  a  mill  there.  Hubert  de  Burgh  was  a  benefactor  to  it; 
but  in  the  9th  of  Edward  I.  the  Prior  and  Convent  were  removed  to  Snead. 
At  the  dissolution,  during  the  37th  of  Henry  VIII.  the  king  granted  to  Ed¬ 
ward  Hopton  and  Elizabeth  his  wife,  the  house  and  land  on  which  it  stood, 
and  after  their  deaths  to  their  heirs  for  ever.  During  the  ISth  year  of 
Elizabeth  the  rectory  and  parsonage  of  Chirbury,  belonging  to  the  late  priory, 
was  given  to  augment  the  income  of  the  Grammar-school  of  Shrewsbury. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Camlad,  at  the  beautiful  dingle  of  Marrington,  5  m. 
distant  from  Montgomery,  grows  Impatiens  noli  me  tangere. 

To  Newtown,  the  road  leads  over  Cwm  Hinkin,  leaving  Llandyssul  on  the 
1.  and  thence  to  Brynderwen;  leaving  Dolforwyn  Hall,  Rev.  J.  Pryce,  on  the 
r.  pass  Cilgwrgan  and  thence  to  Newtown,  along  a  beautiful  valley  enriched 
by  the  Severn,  meadows,  and  pastures.  The  hills  on  each  side  are  mostly 
sprinkled  with  wood.  The  way  to  Bishop’s  Castle  lies  through  a  rich  country. 
On  this  road,  a  retrospective  view  of  the  remains  of  the  castle,  the  tower  of 
the  church,  with  trees  concealingthe  inferior  buildings,  becomes  very  interest¬ 
ing.  Pass  Brompton,  with  its  tumulus,  thence  to  the  Court  House,  now  con¬ 
verted  into  that  of  a  farm,  and  take  the  new  road.  Upon  a  summit  5  m.  from 
Montgomery,  a  delightful  survey  may  betaken  of  the  far  distant  mountain¬ 
ous  country  of  Wales.  A  m.  further  is  Red  Court  House.  On  the  r.  Mel- 
lington  Hall,  T.  B.  Browne,  Esq.  Within  2  m.  of  Bishop’s  Castle  is  an 
ancient  encampment  called  Bishop  s  Moat. 

To  Welshpool  (a  little  way  out  of  the  town  is  a  road  to  Berriew,  4  m.). 
After  crossing  the  river  Camlad,  1  m.,  |  m.  further  on  the  road,  Camlad 
Bridge,  ^  m.  (to  the  1.  is  a  splendid  receptacle  of  misery  called  a  House  of 
Industry,  said  to  have  cost  17,000/.  !  On  the  r.  to  Shrewsbury,  20  m.), 
pass  Forden,  3^  m.  (on  the  r.  is  A^ant  Cribba  Hall,  Col.  Davies.  The  seat 
of  Lord  Hereford,  on  thel.  Edderton  House.  Offa’s  Dike  runs  almost  close 
to  this  road  for  1  m.  on  the  r.  passing  close  to  Nant  Cribba.  At  this  place 
its  breadth  is  about  7  yards,  and  height  6’  or  7  ft* ;  the  dike  or  foss  is  on 

G  G  2 


452 


NARBERTH. 


the  Welsh  side.  1^  m.  further  cross  the  Severn,  on  the  r.  Glanhavren,  and 
i  m.  out  of  the  road  to  the  r.  Leighton  Hall.  Within  1  m.  of  Pool,  cross 
the  Montgomery  canal.)  Pool,  from  Forden,  5  m.  Some  delightful  scenes 
occur  on  this  road,  having  the  Breiddin  mountains  in  the  background,  and 
Sabrina  in  the  intermediate  space.  A  road  to  the  1>  leads  to  Powys  Castle. 
j^See  Welshpool.] 


To  Welshpool,  71  Pennant  i  Bingley  ;  Pugh, 
Newtown,  8|  miles.  Evans  ;  Wyndham. 
Bishop’s  Castle,  8i  miles. 

Mr.  Skrineterminated  hisjourney  through 
N.  Wales  at  this  place. 


To  Shrewsbury,  20  miles. 

Wigmore,  12  miles  ;  Hereford,  23  miles.  War¬ 
ner. 


NARBERTH, 

From  Liaugharne,  15 miles.  Donovan  ;  Evans,  j  From  Carew  Castle,  10  miles.  Fenton.  • 

Cilgerran,  16  miles.  Warner.  j  Tenby,  10  miles. 

Haverfordwest,  10  miles.  Wyndham.  1 

NARBERTH,  in  the  hundred  of  the  same  name,  in  Pembrokeshire,  is 
a  newly  created  borough  and  small  ancient  town,  situated  on  a  rivulet  run¬ 
ning  into  the  Cleddeu.  Since  the  establishment  of  a  post-office  and  a  daily 
mail-coach  to  Haverfordwest,  and  the  enclosure  of  its  common,  the  place 
has  increased  rapidly.  In  1831  the  population  was  2589 ;  the  fairs  are 
held  March  21.,  May  13.,  June  4.,  July  5.,  Aug.  10.,  Sept.  26.,  Oct.  25., 
and  Dec.  11.,  for  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  &c.  The  Market  day  is  on 
Thursday.  Inn,  the  White  Hart. 

The  ivied  ruins  of  the  Castle,  though  small,  are  prominent  and  pictu¬ 
resque.  From  the  outlines  of  its  walls  it  seems  to  have  formed  a  large  pile,  ex¬ 
tending  along  a  ridge  towards  the  town.  On  the  first  introduction  of  the 
Normans  into  Pembrokeshire,  under  Arnulph  de  Montgomery,  this  place 
became  the  possession  of  Sir  Stephen  Perrott.  Probably  the  castle  was  not 
built  by  him,  but  in  the  hurry  of  his  defensive  establishment  he  contented 
himself  with  temporary  fortifications  upon  the  summit  of  a  mountain  ridge 
between  Narberth  and  the  village  of  Templeton,  an  elevated  spot  in  a  deep 
forest,  where  slight  vestiges  of  military  works  still  appear.  His  son.  Sir  An¬ 
drew  Perrott  was  the  founder  of  the  church.  He  erected  also  a  castle  and  gar¬ 
risoned  it  with  Flemings,  who  were  new  settlers.  Its  succeeding  possessors 
were  the  Lords  Marchers  in  the  time  of  Edward  III.,  and  Richard  Duke  of 
Y ork,  heir  to  the  last  Roger  Earl  of  March.  The  duke  granted  it  to  the  Bishop 
of  St.  David’s,  and  Griffith  Nicholas,  grandfather  to  Sir  Rhys  ap  Thomas. 
Leland  calls  it  ‘‘a,  praty  pile  of  old  Sir  Reeses,  given  unto  him  by  Henry 
VIII.  There  is  a  poor  village  and  by  it  a  littel  forest.”  It  was  in¬ 
habited,  as  late  as  1657,  by  Richard  Castell.  In  the  4th  year  of  James  II. 
Sir  John  Barlow  obtained  a  patent  for  holding  the  market  and  fairs,  and 
taking  tolls  and  customs.  The  manor,  castle,  and  all  privileges  annexed  to 
them  are  the  property  of  the  Baron  de  Rutzen  of  Slebech  Hall,  obtained  by 
marriage  with  the  heiress  of  the  late  Nathaniel  Phillipps,  Esq.  The 
church  is  parent  to  Robeston-Wathen  and  Murrston,  or  Monkton ;  the 
living  is  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  the  crown.  This  is  a  neat  edifice  in  the  later 
style  of  English  architecture.  A  new  rectory  house  has  been  completed  at 
an  expense  of  1050/. 

On  the  road  to  Haverfordwest  cross  the  Aherewm,  and  pass  through 
the  village  of  Roheston  Watlien,  situated  on  an  eminence,  1  m.  7  fur.  The 
church  is  consolidated  with  that  of  Narberth.  It  has  a  tower,  like  most  of 
the  churches  built  by  the  Normans  and  Flemings.  (On  the  r.  is  Sodston 


NARBERTH. 


453 


House.  On  the  r.  a  road  to  Cardigan,  21  m.)  Descending  from  this  vil¬ 
lage  to  Canaston  Bridge,  cross  the  Cleddeu,  1  m.  1  fur.  and  pursue  the 
turnpike-road  for  a  few  hundred  yards,  turn  to  the  r.  which  leads  to  Ridge¬ 
way,  an  elegant  residence,  lately  of  J.  H.  Foley,  Esq.,  amidst  groves  of  his 
own  planting,  now  of  Mrs.  Foley.  From  this  eminence  the  prospect  is  de¬ 
lightful;  in  front  look  down  upon  the  woods  of  Canaston,  Slebech,  and 
Mynwear,  with  the  rich  farm  of  Canaston;  and,  from  the  lawn  to  the  n.,  view 
the  ruins  of  Llanhuadam  Castle.  Descending  from  Robeston  to  Canaston, 
this  castle  appears  finely  accompanied  with  a  superb  foreground  of  wood  and 
water,  and  backed  by  the  finely  undulating  line  of  the  Precelly  range  of 
hills.  The  village  is  distant  about  2  m.  It  was  the  caput  baronise,”  by 
which  the  bishops  of  St.  David’s  sit  in  parliament,  on  the  r.  of  the  road,  and 
is  situated  upon  a  lofty  ridge  above  the  river  Cleddeu,  consisting  of  a  few 
scattered  houses.  A  little  to  the  1.  on  entering  it,  in  a  meadow,  are  the  re¬ 
mains  of  a  hospitiura,  built  and  endowed  by  Thomas  Beke,  bishop  of  St. 
David’s,  consisting  of  a  detached  building,  which,  though  roofless,  shows 
few  symptoms  of  decay  within.  Turning  short  to  the  r.  enter  the  village, 
pass  Llanhuadain  House,  Francis  Skyrme,  Esq.  The  ruins  of  a  magnificent 
and  castellated  episcopal  palace  that  crowns  the  summit  of  a  steep  wooded 
hill  lie  just  above  the  church. 

The  Castle,  though  seemingly  placed  upon  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  was 
moated,  and  approached  by  a  drawbridge  on  the  s.  side.  The  grand  en¬ 
trance  was  by  a  gateway  of  singular  form,  marked  first  by  the  arch  to  which 
the  gate  was  hung,  next  by  another  arch  much  higher,  and  lastly,  by  an¬ 
other  still  more  projecting  at  the  extreme  height  of  the  wail.  It  lies 
between  two  large  bastions ;  that  to  the  r.  contains  several  rooms  ;  the 
uppermost  has  a  stone  vaulted  roof,  and  is  almost  entire.  The  windows 
have  a  label  moulding  over  them.  The  next  bastion  to  the  r.  of  these  is 
an  octagon,  which  seems  separated  into  two  retiring  apartments,  each  having 
its  water  closet.  The  whole  building  was  of  stone,  and  from  the  remaining 
fragments  seems  to  have  been  extensive  and  sumptuous,  including  a  spa¬ 
cious  area,  in  which  are  the  traces  of  splendid  apartments,  and  also  of 
Bishop  Vaughan’s  elegant  chapel.  From  the  belt  of  the  grassy  slope  without 
the  moat,  on  the  edge  of  the  hill,  is  a  most  enchanting  prospect  of  the  wind¬ 
ings  of  the  Cleddeu,  through  a  luxuriantly  wooded  scene.  Of  late  years  the 
castle  has  been  plundered  to  supply  materials  for  repairing  the  roads  !  A 
large  park  once  surrounded  this  fortress.  Thomas  Beke  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  principal  founder.  Among  the  residents  have  been  Bishop  Hoton, 
about  1.S83,  Bishop  Vaughan,  Bishop  John  Gilbert,  1403  ;  Bishop 
Barlow  who  thought  of  nothing  but  enriching  himself  “  per  fas  et  nefas,” 
stripped  this  castle  of  its  lead,  as  he  did  to  the  palace  of  St.  David’s. 
Under  the  richly  wooded  precipitous  steep  upon  which  the  castle  is  situated, 
occurs  the  parish  church  of  Llanhuadain,  in  a  narrow  dell,  dedicated  to 
Aeddan,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Cleddeu,  and  inclosed  by  woods.  On  look¬ 
ing  up  the  river,  the  bridge,  the  mill  and  mansion  of  Tal-y-bont  happily 
combine  in  forming  a  beautiful  landscape.  The  church,  more  from  its 
situation  than  from  its  dimensions  or  architecture,  becomes  interesting.  A 
tower  imparts  an  air  of  dignity  to  its  exterior  ;  within  a  solitary  old  monu¬ 
ment,  under  a  plain  canopy,  bearing  the  recumbent  effigy  of  a  priest,  well 
executed  in  Nolton  stone,  is  said  to  be  that  of  St.  Hugo.  The  living  is  a 
vicarage ;  the  tithes  are  held  under  lease  for  the  chancellorship,  to  wffiich  it 
was  annexed,  with  the  demesne  of  St.  Cenooc,  by  Bishop  Beke.  St.  Cenox, 
or  Canukes,  was  one  of  the  residences  of  Rhys  Prichard,  who,  upon  the 
rocky  mount  near  the  house,  often  preached  to  an  audience  that  no  church 

G  G  3 


454 


NARBERTH. 


could  contain.  The  mansion  of  Tal-y-hont,  almost  facing  the  church,  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river,  vras  originally  built  and  occupied  by  a  person 
named  Hawkwell,  the  confidential  instrument  of  Bishop  Barlow’s  rapacious 
prelacy.  This  house  has  been  long  deserted,  yet  being  too  good  to  be  taken 
down  is  still  occupied  by  a  tenant. 

Deviate  from  Conaston  Bridge  to  Colby,  once  forming  part  of  the  im¬ 
mense  possessions  of  the  Barlows  of  Slebech,  of  whom  an  heiress  married 
the  late  Sir  William  Hamilton,  who  settled  this  property  by  will  on  his 
nephew  the  Right  Hon.  Charles  Greville.  The  ancient  mansion  has  long 
since  been  taken  down  to  make  room  for  a  farm-house.  In  a  wild  moor 
near  Colby  were  found  several  pieces  of  armour. 

Wiston,  or  Castell  Gwys,  1  m.  further  n.,  is  the  ancient  seat  of  the 
Wogans,  a  family  once  numerous  and  ramified,  but  now  extinct.  The 
Castle,  placed  on  a  commanding  situation,  was  of  great  extent  and  strength  ; 
little  more  than  a  truncated  ruin  of  the  keep  now  remains.  The  present 
mansion  of  Wiston,  part  of  which  is  now  occupied  by  a  farmer,  from  the 
great  thickness  of  its  walls,  and  the  construction  of  an  old  gateway,  appears 
to  be  very  ancient.  This  fine  estate  and  borough,  contributary  to  Pembroke, 
afterwards  became  the  property,  by  purchase,  of  Lord  Cawdor.  From  the 
front  is  an  extensive  prospect  of  the  country  around  Milford  Haven  ;  to  the 
s.  and  N.  mountains  may  be  seen  from  the  ruined  keep  of  the  castle.  The 
church  of  St.  Mary  is  a  small  Norman  edifice  with  a  small  tower. 

Three  miles  n.  w.  to  the  r.  is  the  mansion  of  Pont-y-parc,  embosomed  in 
wood,  once  belonging  to  a  branch  of  the  ancient  family  of  Cilsant,  and  after 
many  descents  from  William  Philipps,  second  son  to  Sir  Thomas  Philipps,  of 
Picton  Castle,  became  the  inheritance  of  Lady  Milford,  and  her  sister  Mrs. 
Jane  Philipps.  Farther  to  the  r.  is  H ay thog,  belonging  to  another  branch 
of  the  same  family.  On  the  same  side  leave  Walton,  a  villa  with  a  church 
which  names  the  parish,  and  formed  part  of  the  vast  endowment  of  the  com- 
mandery  of  Slebech,  the  gift  of  \Talter  de  Wale.  Pursuing  the  main  road 
from  Canaston  Bridge,  pass  Midcounty  1  m.  on  the  1.  seated  on  the  river 
Cieddeu,  Slebech,  R.  Bulkeley  Phillips,  Esq.  ;  2  m.  on  the  r.  is  Wiston. 
(Picton  Castle,  Lord  Cawdor,  lies  2  m.  s.  w.  of  Slebech.)  Deep  Lalce,  6’  fur. 
Scurry  Hill,  1  m.  7  fur.  At  f  m.  pass  the  Milford  river  ;  and  \  m.  fur¬ 
ther  on  the  r.  is  the  road  to  Cardigan,  distant  25i  m. ;  J  m.  beyond,  pass 
the  Cleddy,  enter  Haverfordwest. 

The  road  to  Carew  lies  first  over  a  gradual  ascent  of  hilly  land,  and 
then  across  a  barren  waste.  This  district  abounds  with  inexhaustible  coal¬ 
mines.  Approaching  to  Carew  the  traveller  will  be  captivated  by  charming 
vistas,  and  the  meanaering  branches  of  Milford  Haven,  a  creek  of  which 
flows  past  the  noble  skeleton  of  Carew  Castle. 

To  Tenby  the  road  lies  through  a  tolerably  wooded  country  ;  leaving 
the  collieries  in  the  vicinity  of  Saunder’s-Foot  Bay,  on  the!.,  enter  a  district 
peopled  by  the  descendants  of  the  Flemish  settlers. 

On  the  way  to  Cilgerban,  Mr.  Wyndham  passed  close  to  the  Druidic 
circles  mentioned  by  Camden,  on  the  Cilmaenllwyd  Heath.  He  pursued 
his  route  along  the  foot  of  the  Craig  Cwrw,  one  of  the  Precelly  mountains. 

Sir  Richard  Hoare  strongly  recommends  a  ride  to  a  picturesque  valley 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Narberth,  watered  by  the  Cieddeu  and  crowned  by 
the  towers  of  Llanhuadain  Castle. 


To  Carew,  8  miles.  Donovan. 

Tenby,  9  miles.  Evan.s  ;  Warner. 
Cilgerran,  20  miles.  Wyndham. 
Haverfordwest,  10^  miles. 


To  Pembroke,  12  miles. 
Carmarthen,  23  miles. 
Cardigan,  26  miles. 


455 


NEATH. 


From  Pont-Neath  Vaugban,  32  miles. 

Swansea,  8^  miles.  Wyndliam  ;  Malkin  ; 
Barber. 


From  Briton  Ferry,  2^  miles.  Donovan  ;  Evans ; 
Skrine;  Warner. 

Merthyr  Tydvil,  by  way  of  Pont  Neath 
Vaughan,  25  miles. 


NEATH,  or  Nedd,  the  Nidum  of  Antoninus  is  situated  in  a  pleasing 
rectilinear  valley,  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  navigable  river  Neath,  in 
Glamorganshire-  The  population  in  1831  amounted  to  4043.  The 
Church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Thomas  the  apostle,  but  is  called  a  Chapel  in 
the  grant  of  Richard  de  Granville  to  the  abbey  of  Savigny  ;  the  living  is 
now  a  rectory  ;  the  Marquess  of  Bute,  patron.  The  markets  are  on 
Wednesday.  The  fairs  are  on  Thursday  after  Trinity,  July  31.,  and 
September  12.  This  is  one  of  five  contributary  boroughs,  which  return  a 
member  to  parliament.  The  Corporation  consists  of  a  portreve,  twelve 
aldermen,  and  an  unlimited  number  of  burgesses.  The  parish  contains 
300  acres  of  cultivated  land.  The  petty  sessions  for  the  hundred  of  Neath 
are  holden  here  ;  and  the  midsummer  quarter  sessions  for  the  county  baron 
for  the  recovery  of  small  debts,  on  Tuesday  and  Wednesday  after  Thomas 
Becket.  A  court  is  held  every  month.  It  was  formerly  of  greater 
extent  and  importance  than  at  present,  the  spirit  of  trade  having  not 
diffused  itself  in  elegant  buildings  or  well-paved  streets.  At  Neath  Abbey 
are  very  extensive  iron-works,  from  which  have  been  supplied  powerful 
engines  in  various  parts  of  the  Principality  for  the  manufacture  of  copper 
and  iron,  also  steam  engines  for  foreign  mining  companies.  There  are 
copper  and  tin  works  in  the  vicinity.  Principal  Inns,  Ship  and  Castle,  the 
Angel,  Neath  Arms. 

The  Neath  river  (which  affords  a  good  haven  for  small  vessels)  crossed 
by  a  stone  bridge,  is  the  boundary  of  that  tract  of  country  called  Gower  ; 
it  also  formed  the  w.  boundary  of  the  lordship  of  Glamorgan,  which 
anciently  extended  e.  to  the  river  Usk.  The  latter  district  fell  under  the 
dominion  of  the  Normans  ;  the  circumstances  whereof  are  detailed  in  the 
following  account. 

The  Castle,  now  an  inconsiderable  ruin,  formed  part  of  the  domains  of 
lestyn  ap  Gwrgan,  lord  of  Morganwgor  Glamorgan.  This  chieftain  having 
joined  three  others  in  a  rebellion  against  Rhys  ap  Tewdwr,  prince  of 
S.  Wales,  A.D.  1090,  promised  that,  to  make  the  union  more  binding, 
Enion,  one  of  the  chiefs,  should  marry  lestyn’s  daughter,  provided  he 
procured  assistance  from  the  Normans  to  prosecute  their  hostilities  against 
Rhys.  Robert  Fitzhamon,  an  Anglo-Norman  chieftain,  nearly  related 
to  the  king  of  England,  and  a  baron  of  the  realm,  was  applied  to,  who 
selected  twelve  adherents.  An  army  in  IO9I,  invaded  S.  Wales,  and  laid 
the  country  waste.  Rhys,  though  QO  years  of  age,  met  the  assailants  on 
the  Black  Mountain  near  Brecon,  and  was  slain  in  the  battle.  The  con¬ 
federates  were  successful,  lestyn  kept  his  engagement  with  the  Normans, 
but  neglected  to  fulfil  his  pledge  to  Einion  ;  he  became  insolent  in 
prosperity,  and  treated  his  fellow  traitor  Einion  with  derision.  Einion 
resented  this  faithless  and  ungrateful  conduct,  pursued  the  Normans,  and 
arrived  at  the  sea-shore  when  they  had  already  embarked.  He  waved  his 
mantle  as  a  signal,  which  they  perceived,  and  immediately  returned.  On 
inquiring  the  cause  of  such  extraordinary  recall,  Einion  gave  an  account 

G  Q  4 


456 


NEATH, 


of  the  ill  usage  he  had  sustained^  maintaining  that  a  very  easy  conquest 
might  be  made  of  the  country,  especially  as  the  neighbouring  Welsh  princes 
despised  lestyn’s  treachery  too  much  to  cause  them  to  be  of  his  party. 
The  Normans  perceiving  a  prospect  of  subduing  this  country  with  ease, 
readily  engaged  in  Einion’s  project.  Fitzhamon  assembled  his  forces,  and 
suddenly  deprived  lestyn  of  his  life  and  territory.  He  then  divided  the 
domain,  reserving  to  himself  the  principal  parts  and  the  entire  seigniority 
of  the  whole  :  he  then  gave  the  rest  of  the  province  to  be  held  in  subor¬ 
dinate  fiefs,  to  the  twelve  knights  who  accompanied  him,  leaving  the  rough 
and  barren  mountains  to  the  share  of  Einion.  It  was  necessary  to 
support  a  dominion  thus  acquired  by  the  iron  arm  of  oppression  :  the 
attention,  therefore,  of  the  conquerors  was  directed  to  the  erection  of 
fortresses  on  their  domains,  and  afterwards  to  the  creation  of  religious 
houses.  In  this  manner  were  the  Lordships  Afarc/ier^  established  in  Wales  ; 
possessing,  in  all  cases,  except  the  power  of  granting  pardons  for  treason, 
jura  regalia,  or  rights  of  royalty.  The  lordship  and  castle  of  Neath  were 
allotted  to  Richard  de  Granville,  brother  to  Fitzhamon,  from  whom  de¬ 
scended  the  noble  families  of  Granville  Marquess  of  Bath,  Granville  Duke 
of  Buckingham,  and  Lord  Granville. 

The  ruins  of  Neath  Abbey,  or  Abatty  Glyn  Nedd,  “  the  Abbacy  of  the 
Vale  of  Nedd,”  is  one  of  the  objects  which  distinguish  this  district,  distant 
about  1  m.  w.  of  the  town,  near  the  road  leading  from  Swansea.  This  situation 
must  have  been  delightful,  but  now’,  not  only  the  walls  which  remain,  but 
every  object  around  is  so  impinged  by  the  smoke  of  fires  on  every  side,  that  a 
traveller  approaching  this  vale  at  night  might  imagine  he  was  entering  the 
dominions  of  Pluto.  The  inexhaustible  store  of  coals  with  which  the 
neighbourhood  abounds  has  led  to  the  erection  of  extensive  iron  founderies, 
of  which  the  ore  is  brought  from  the  upper  part  of  the  vale  ;  very  exten¬ 
sive  furnaces  are  established  for  smelting  copper  ore  brought  from  Corn¬ 
wall  and  Wicklow.  ^Vith  respect  to  the  history  of  the  foundation  of 
this  abbey  perhaps  none  more  authentic  can  be  referred  to  than  that 
contained  in  Tanner’s  “  Notitia  Monastica.”  It  w^as  erected  by  Richard  de 
Granville  or  Greenfield,  one  of  Fitzhamon’s  knights ;  the  same  wdio  came 
about  1090  to  assist  Einion  and  lestyn,  against  Rhys  ap  Tewdwr,  prince  of 
S.  Wales,  in  the  reign  of  William  Rufus.  It  was  established  for  monks 
of  the  Cistercian  order,  and  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Trinity.  At  the  dis¬ 
solution  of  monasteries,  the  revenues  were  valued  at  150/.  per  annum. 
The  abbey-house  about  the  year  l650  formed  an  admired  seat  of  the 
Hobby  family.  This  ruin  is  composed  of  rough  stone,  with  lancet 
windows,  which  range  along  the  n.  side  of  a  quadrangle.  The  gates,  hall, 
and  gallery,  still  remain,  having  in  front  of  a  contiguous  room,  the  arms  of 
England,  with  those  of  John  of  Gaunt.  In  this  abbey  the  unfortunate 
Edward  II.  sheltered  himself,  after  his  escape  from  Caerphilly  Castle, 
and  was  here  taken  prisoner.  The  ichnography  of  the  old  church  may 
easily  be  traced.  Among  the  dingy  inhabitants  of  this  abbey  Mr.  Barber 
met  with  an  aged  woman  who  gave  him  an  account  of  the  ruin.  She 
showed  us,”  says  he,  the  nuns’  dining  room,  the  roof  of  which  was 
entire,  supported  by  early  Norman  pillars  and  arches.  From  the  refectory 
we  passed  to  the  dormitory,  and  Avere  shown  a  dungeon,  in  Avhich,  as  the 
legend  of  the  abbey  relates,  offending  nuns  were  confined.” 

In  a  field,  nearly  opposite  the  ruins  of  the  abbey,  lies  a  Avell  sculptured 
effigy  of  an  abbot,  holding  the  model  of  a  church,  intended  probably  to  per¬ 
petuate  tbe  memory  of  a  person  who  built  or  repaired  this  structure.  In 
the  neighbourhood  are  some  v^ery  extensive  works  for  the  manufacture  of 


NEATH.  . 


457 

iron  and  copper.  Here  are  two  immense  blast  furnaces_,  an  iron-foundery_, 
and  an  engine  manufactory.  Two  considerable  copper-works  belong  re¬ 
spectively  to  the  Crown  and  Mines  Royal  Companies.  A  Chemical  work  is 
carried  on^  in  which  are  produced  sugar  of  lead^,  vitriol,  and  the  purest  alum 
in  the  kingdom.  In  addition  to  these  sources  of  wealth,  a  very  productive 
colliery  in  this  neighbourhood  affords  incalculable  advantage  to  all  its  manu¬ 
factures.  A  Canal  also  extends  from  Briton  Ferry  to  Abernant,  where  it 
is  united  by  a  stone  aqueduct  of  eleven  arches  to  the  Swansea  and  Neath 
junction.  The  act  for  this  canal  was  obtained  in  179^  ;  it  passes  through 
a  district  abounding  in  coals,  limestone,  iron  ore,  copper,  lead,  &c.  At  a 
short  distance  from  Neath  is  the  Giioll,  a  castellated  seat  of  the  late  Sir 
Herbert  Mackworth,  occupying  the  summit  of  a  hill  at  the  termination  of  a 
noble  lawn.  The  fine  views  which  this  elevation  commands,  encompassed 
by  hanging  woods  and  extensive  plantations,  shady  walks,  and  picturesque 
cascades,  render  it  a  domain  deservedly  attractive.  It  was  conveyed  by 
marriage  of  his  widow  to  Capel  H anbury  Leigh,  Esq.  of  Pont-y-Pool  park, 
from  whom  it  was  purchased  by  H.  Grant,  Esq.,  the  present  proprietor. 
Near  Neath  is  the  small  neat  church  of  Cadoxton  juxta  Neath,  or  Llangat- 
twg  Glyn  Nedd,  dedicated  to  Cattwg  Ddoeth,  or  the  Wise.  It  contains  a 
singular  epitaph  ;  not  less  than  the  whole  pedigree  of  the  family  of  Williams. 
“  As  long  as  a  Welsh  pedigree”  is  an  old  proverb  completely  verified  in 
the  present  instance  :  a  copy  of  it  in  Mr.  Evans’s  Tour  occupies  four  wide 
8vo  pages.  Lhvchwr  is  a  poor  village  8'm.  distant  from  Neath,  situated  on 
a  river  of  the  same  name,  fordable  at  low  water.  The  outward  walls  of  a 
square  castle  remain,  fortified  by  a  treble  trench  ;  it  was  destroyed  by  Rhys 
ap  Gryffydd  in  1215.  On  theN.E.  side  of  the  town,  is  one  of  the  highest 
mountains  in  S.  Wales,  called  Cefn-y-Bryn^  583  feet  above  low  water 
mark,  on  the  n.  w.  point  of  which  is  a  huge  limestone,  twenty  tons  weight, 
supported  by  six  or  seven  others,  about  4  feet  high,  ranged  circularly.  This 
stupendous  cromlech  is  called  Arthur’s  Stone,  from  the  name  of  the  hero 
who  is  supposed  to  have  erected  it. 

In  the  way  to  Swansea,  cross  the  Neath  and  Clydach  rivers  ;  on  the  r. 
Cwrt  Herbert,  W.  Gronow,  Esq. ;  cross  the  Clydach  river,  on  the  1. 
Neath  Abbey,  ^  m.  Leave  some  copper-works  on  the  1.,  cross  Crymlyn 
Brook,  which  falls  into  Crymlyn  Burrows,  at  a  house  called  Wern-goeh  ; 
near  the  4th  mile,  at  a  short  distance  on  the  r.  is  Gwern  Llwynchwith, 
C.  H.  Smith,  Esq.,  and  Birch  Grove,  Mrs.  Morgan  Morgan  ;  m.  further  on 
the  1.  is  the  village  of  Llansamlet ;  at  the  5  th  m.  cross  the  Tawe,  to  Morriston. 
[See  Swansea.]  In  advancing  to  the  last  place,  a  beautiful  display  of  land., 
scape  is  disclosed  to  view.  A  bold  obtrusive  hill  lies  in  front,  obscured  by 
smoke,  and  studded  with  cottages.  On  the  summit  of  the  hill  is  an 
elegant  villa,  surrounded  by  trees.  At  Llandwr  a  stupendous  steam  engine 
is  erected  for  the  drainage  of  a  valuable  mine.  This  machine  raises 
water  at  the  rate  of  78,000  gallons  in  an  hour.  It  is  said  to  have  cost 
between  4000/.  and  5000/.  The  Swansea  canal  is  crossed  three  times  from 
Morriston, 

On  the  road  to  Briton  Ferry,  having  passed  the  tufted  hills  of  the 
Gnoll,  a  single  stone  monument  occurs,  called  Maen  Llythyrog,  which  may 
be  accounted  one  of  the  remotest  relics  of  antiquity.  Its  inscription  has 
been  read  as  follows:  ‘^'^Bodvacus  hie  jacet  filius  Catotis  Irni  pronepos 
seternali  domo.”  This  is  a  massive  parallelopiped,  upon  an  eminence  to  the 
1.  ;  another  immediately  beyond  appears  in  a  field  close  to  the  road  on  the 
r.  Afterwards  is  seen  the  Eagle  s  Bush,  H.  Evans,  Esq.,  a  beautiful  resi¬ 
dence  situated  on  high  grounds  ;  the  rich  hanging  woods  and  open  groves 


458  NEATH. 

of  Briton  Ferry  attract  considerable  interest,  clothing  a  charming  domain  of 
Lord  Vernon. 

There  is  away  to  Bridgend  over  agrand  and  mountainous  country,  through 
the  parish  of  Llangeinor ^  where  there  are  some  very  curious  caves  of  great 
extent.  This  route  may  be  readily  traced  in  Yates's  four  sheet  map  of  Gla¬ 
morganshire.  Pass  Melincryddan  to  Cringell,  W.  Davies,  Esq.,  2  m.  cross  the 
the  Afon  Fychan  at  Esail  Each,  1  m.  the  summit  of  Eoel  FgnyddaUyheiw^ 
on  the  r.  cross  the  Afon  at  Pont-rhyd-fen,  1  m.  continue  with  Mynydd- 
hychan,  on  the  r.  for  2  m.;  proceed  to  Llangonoyd,  4  m.  and  on  the  borders 
of  the  Llynfi  river  to  Bridgend,  7  m.,  making  the  whole  distance  I'J  m. 
taking  by  the  way  Tondu,  J.  Nichols,  Esq.;  Penglan  and  Court-Colman, 
unoccupied.  Mr.  Warner  left  the  Gnoll  and  pursued  the  canal  2  m.  till  he 
reached  Aherdulds  Forge.  Soon  after  which  occurred  the  pleasing  cascade 
of  Aherdulds  Mill.  A  little  further  may  be  examined  some  astonishing 
operations  of  machinery  at  the  tin-plate  works  of  Ynys-y-geryn.  Melincwrt 
is  a  romantic  village,  5  m.  from  Neath  [see  Swansea],  where  there  is  a  blast¬ 
furnace,  a  smelting-furnace,  and  foundery,  on  an  improved  and  stupendous 
plan.  At  a  short  distance  from  these  works  is  the  celebrated  waterfall  of 
Melincwrt ;  on  the  left,  in  the  line  of  Cefn-hyr-fynydd,  the  Roman  road 
Sarn  Helen  occxirs.  [See  Swansea.]  Here  Mr.  Warner  forded  the  river 
and  continued  along  the  canal  side  for  3  or  4  m.  At  the  distance  of  8  m. 
from  Neath  he  passed  a  productive  colliery,  and  shortly  after  Ahei'pergwm, 
the  seat  of  W.  Williams,  Esq.,  a  fine  old  mansion,  in  grounds  taste¬ 
fully  disposed  commanding  much  interesting  scenery.  Passing  on  ^  m. 
he  crossed  a  railroad,  and  was  afterwards  much  struck  with  the  contour  of 
the  mountain  rising  on  the  n.  e.  called  “"the  Rock  of  the  Lake,” 

referring  to  a  pool  of  water  in  one  of  its  cwms  :  he  then  arrived  at  Pont- 
Nedd-Fychan.  (This  place  may  easily  be  visited  from  Neath,  being  on 
the  direct  road  to  Brecon.  Its  surrounding  scenery  is  so  interesting,” 
says  Mr.  Malkin,  ‘‘  that  those  who  explore  the  celebrated  vale  of  Neath 
should  not  rest  satisfied  without  committing  themselves  to  the  accommo¬ 
dations  of  the  Angel  Inn  for  one  night,  in  order  to  devote  the  following 
day  to  ranging  over  the  beauties  of  the  neighbourhood.” 

From  Neath  to  Brecon  the  distances  are,  to  Newbridge,  6  m.,  Aher- 
pergwm,  3  m.  (on  the  r.,  Aherpergwm  House,  the  residence  of  W.  'Williams, 
Esq.)  Oliver  Cromwell,  who  was  in  some  degree  related  to  an  ancestor  of 
Mr.  Rees  Williams,  the  late  proprietor,  is  said  to  have  halted  at  this  place 
on  his  way  to  Milford  Haven,  and  to  have  despatched  messengers  to  acquaint 
the  family  of  his  arrival.  Receiving  no  encouragement,  he  fired  a  few  shots 
over  the  mansion,  by  way  of  intimidation,  and  departed  without  offering 
any  further  violence.  This  traditional  account  derives  corroboration  from 
the  discovery  of  some  cannon-balls  on  turning  up  the  ground  near  the 
house  in  1831.  Pont-Nedd-Fychan,  3|-  m.  (on  the  1.  Blaensenny  House, 
D.  Morgan,  Esq.)  Cross  the  Parthin.  Ystradfellte,  4^  m.  A  moun¬ 
tainous  district  gives  existence  to  the  Tdff  on  the  r.,  and  the  Senni  on 
the  1.  The  Tre  Beddw  mountain  rises  on  the  r.  Near  Brecon  are  roads 
on  the  1.  to  Llangattock,  23  m.,  and  Llandovery  19  m.  On  the  road  to 
Cardiff,  42^  m.  Cross  the  Usk  to  Brecon.  On  the  way  to  Brecon,  a 
line  might  be  pursued,  which  has,  perhaps,  never  been  taken  into  the  route 
of  any  tourist.  Cross  the  Neath  Canal  and  river,  leaving  Cwrt  Herbert, 
W.  Gronow,  Esq.,  to  the  1.  Cadoxton-juxta- Neath,  1  m.  Turn  to  the  1., 
without  crossing  the  Dulas  river,  leaving  a  forge  on  the  r.  Aherdulds  Mill 
and  cascade,  1  m.  (if  the  Dulas  be  crossed,  see  on  the  banks  of  the  Neath, 
1  m.  out  of  the  way,  a  rolling  mill,  Ynys-y-geryn,  and  Hirwaen  Fawr). 


NEATH. 


459 

Clyn-yr-egroes,  1  m.  Cross  the  Dulas,  where,  on  the  1.,  is  Gelli  Galed, 
Crinant.  Recross  the  Dulas,  1  m.  Cross  the  Tawe  river,  2  m.  (On 
the  r.  Ynyscedwyn.')  Continue  with  the  Swansea  Canal  on  the  1.,  and  close 
to  the  Tawe  river  on  the  r.  Pass  a  furnace  to  Ystradgynlais,  1  m.,  the 
Vale  of  Gynlais  ap  Glewissig,  Prince  of  Gwent,  and  father  of  Saint  Cattwg, 
who  married  Gwladis,  one  of  the  daughters  of  Brychan.  The  Church  is 
low,  dark,  and  small ;  it  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel  only,  flagged  and 
seated,  but  not  ceiled.  Across  the  middle  of  the  aisle  is  a  small  gallery, 
erected  in  1754.  A  plain  white  monument  in  the  chancel  bears  the  names 
of  Richard,  Christopher,  and  John  Portrey.  Near  the  communion  rails, 
on  a  black  stone,  is  recorded  Morgan  Awbrey,  of  Ynyscedwin,  Esq.,  in¬ 
terred  the  19th  June,  l648,  aged  29;,  with  some  verses  bad  enough  to 
raise  a  dead  man  from  his  grave,  or  fire  with  red  resentment  the  wan 
cheek.”  The  first  four  lines  may  serve  as  a  specimen  :  — 

“  This  marble  may  look  sad  and  well  it  may, 

Being  fixed  thus  for  to  display 
A  doleful  fate  which  did  befall 
The  people  here  in  generall.” 

This  spot  is  remarkable  for  the  longevity  of  its  inhabitants.  From  a  list 
of  paupers  dependent  on  the  parish  during  one  quarter,  out  of  the  whole 
number,  consisting  of  28  persons,  ten  exceeded  80  years  ;  four,  70  years; 
four,  60  years  ;  and  five,  50  years. 

A  brook,  called  Graidd,  falls  into  the  Tawe  at  Ysti  adgynlais  ;  and  mid¬ 
way  between  the  Tawe  and  Twrch  rivers,  is  Ynyscedwyn  Awbrey,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Swansea  Canal,  once  the  patrimony  or  acquisition  of  GryfFydd 
Gwyr,  or  Griffith  of  Gower  :  it  afterwards  became  the  inheritance  of  the 
Rev.  Fleming  Gough,  rector  of  Ystradgynlais.  Three  or  four  m.  n.,  upon  the 
Llech  River,  is  Capel  Coelbren,  which  seems  to  have  been  anciently  a  private 
oratory,  erected  by  one  of  the  Herbert’s  of  Cil-y-bebil.  The  present  fabric 
was  rebuilt  in  1799;,  at  the  expense  of  Mr.  Walter  Price,  of  Glynllech. 
There  is  here  an  ancient  inscription  to  the  memory  of  John  Herbert,  who 
died  January  7*  I6OI.  A  Sarn  Helen  runs  along  a  high  ridge,  separating 
the  parish  of  Ystradgynlais  from  Ystradfellte  and  Cadoxtone.  Upon  the 
hills  adjoining  Llywel  and  Carmarthenshire,  several  carneddau,  and  the 
remains  of  two  or  three  small  British  encampments  occur  on  the  s.e. 
Proceeding  up  the  vale,  this  range  of  mountains  is  opposed  by  another  upon 
the  s.  side  of  the  Tawe,  in  some  places  resembling  a  mural  fortification. 
In  this  natural  wall,  near  the  head  of  the  valley  of  Ystradgynlais,  or  Glan- 
twynau,  as  it  is  frequently  called,  is  a  hermitage.  In  this  cell,  Gunleus, 
Prince  of  Glewissig,  is  said  to  have  died  in  the  arms  of  his  son  Cattwg. 
It  is  about  6  ft.  high,  flat-roofed,  and  three  or  four  yards  square.  On  the 
N.  of  the  Tawe,  a  little  below  the  fall  of  the  Tawney,  is  Daren-yr-ogof, 
‘^‘^the  Rock  of  the  Cave  ;  from  this  issues  a  very  strong  stream,  but  not 
equal  in  quantity  to  the  spring  at  Ogmore,  in  Glamorganshire.  Follow  the 
Tawe,  2  m.,  downwards,  then  cross  s.  to  the  Llech,  or  Llechog,  (the  stony) 
a  small  river  between  the  mansion  of  Glynllech  and  Capel  Coelbren. 

Here  a  scene  occurs,”  says  Mr.  Jones,  which  mocks  description;  it  is 
the  waterfall  near  Hen  Rhyd,  in  comparison  of  which,  the  falls  of  the 
Hepste  and  Pyrddin  are  mill-spouts.  This  little  mountain  stream  is  seen 
only  to  advantage  when  swelled  by  rain.  For  some  space  from  the  source 
it  flows  over  a  bed  of  naked  rocks,  till  it  crosses  a  road  from  Ystradfellte 
to  Glynllech,  and  the  Vale  of  Ystradgynlais.  After  passing  w.,  it  is  sud¬ 
denly  lost,  and  the  traveller  is  left  to  observe  a  woody  glen  sweeping  to-* 


460 


NEATH. 


wards  the  Tawe  ;  but  following  the  course  of  the  river,  he  will  be  astonished. 
The  stream  is  first  almost  dashed  into  foam  for  a  few  yards  over  a  rock 
which  interrupts  its  descent,  after  which  it  assumes  a  more  compact  form, 
and  falls  perpendicularly  in  one  unbroken  sheet  of  water,  upwards  of  90  ft.  ; 
it  then  runs  concealed  by  banks  and  trees,  in  a  semicircular  direction  to  the 
Tawe.”  From  Ystradgynlais  to  the  point  where  the  road  crosses  the  Tawe, 
the  distance  is  7  m.  (2  m.  further  diverge  on  thel.  to  Rhyd-y-h7'iew,  7  m.) 
Three  m.  beyond  is  a  road  to  the  1.  to  Defynoc,  4  m.  One  m.  to  the  1. 
where  this  road  diverges  is  Llannlid,  dedicated  to  St.  Illtyd,  who  settled  in 
Britain  with  Bran  Fendigaid,  about  the  year  70.  Three  m.  further  cross 
the  Senni  river,  cross  the  Camlais,  1  m.  (On  thel.  1  m.,  is  Capel  Illtyd  ; 
a  little  beyond  the  road  to  Pont-Nedd-.Fychan,  diverges  on  the  r.) 
Brecon,  7  nr. 

The  turnpike-road  to  Llanelly  and  Kidwelly  from  Neath  is  to 
Llansamlet,  2^  m.  Cross  the  Tawe,  which  bends  on  the  1.  to  the  sea.  A 
road  to  the  1.,  4|  m.,  to  Swansea.  Cross  the  Swansea  Canal,  Llangyfelach 
Churchy  3}y  m.,  dedicated  to  Cyfelach.  An  additional  church  was  recently 
erected  by  John  Dillwyn  Llewelyn,  Esq.,  of  Penllergare.  This  edifice  contains 
500  sittings,  and  cost  upw  ards  of  2000/.  Corse  hion,  3  m.  1  ft.  Fontarddy- 
lais,  4.  m.  Cross  the  Llwghwr,  enter  Carmarthenshire,  wdiere  a  road  to 
Llandeilo-fawr,  14  m.,  occurs  on  the  r.  To  Carmarthen,  17^  m. 
Ll  ANELLY,  6  m.  Kidwelly,  9  ni. 

Sir  R.  Hoare  says  that  a  long  extent  of  the  Roman  causeway  (^Sarii 
Helen)  is  visible,  leading  from  the  station  of  Nidus,  or  Neath,  to  that  of 
the  Gaer,  near  Brecon.  It  deviates  from  the  main  road  at  Ynys-y-Geryn, 
and  takes  the  direction  of  Cefn-hir-fynydd. 

While  at  Neath,  Mr.  Wyndham  made  an  excursion  to  the  Gnoll,  and  to 
the  fall  of  the  Cleddeu  at  Melincwrt.  [See  Swansea.]  From  Neath  he 
traversed  the  dreary  mountain  of  Bettws,  then  joined  the  road  from  Sw^an- 
sea,  and  descended  into  Carmarthenshire. 

Mr.  Webb  recommends  tourists  to  pass  from  Neath  to  Merthyr- 
Tydvil,  as  an  interesting  and  pleasant  road,  and  thence  to  Pont-Neath 
Fychan,  not  forgetting  the  waterfall  on  the  River  Mellte,  by  the  way. 

To  Pont-Neath-Fychan,  the  gentle  course  of  the  river,  with  its  hang¬ 
ing  woods,  and  that  felicity  of  soil,  atmosphere,  and  herbage,  peculiar  to 
the  vales  in  this  exposure,  produce  a  scene  of  pleasure,  with  some  portion 
of  sublimity,  to  which  it  would  be  difficult  for  any  description  to  do  justice. 
The  colliery,  at  some  distance  on  the  r.  is  well  worth  visiting  on  account  of 
the  canal  to  Neath.  At  Ynys-y-Geryn,  bar-iron  is  wrought  into  tin  plates 
from  bars  of  pig-iron  at  a  forge  below.  At  Melincwrt,  there  is  a  magnificent 
cataract  of  the  Clydach,  from  an  elevation  of  80  ft.  With  the  exception  of  the 
Mynach  Falls,  this  is  the  largest  in  S.  Wales,  and,  considered  as  an  enclosed 
scene,  is  unrivalled  in  its  accompaniments.  The  road  from  Melincwwt 
to  Gnoll  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  late  Sir  Herbert  Mackworth,  and  now  of 
H.  Grant,  Esq.,  is  conducted  along  terraces,  where  dense  woods  intervene 
between  the  passenger  and  the  Neath  below. 

The  principal  Angling  Stations  in  the  vicinity  of  Neath,  are  Glyn  Corwg, 
excellent  ;  Blaen  Honddu,  1^  m.  on  the  w.  bank  of  the  Nedd,  in  the  midst 
of  beautiful  scenery  ;  Crinant,  7  m.  on  the  Dulas  ;  Pont- N'edd- Fychan, 
10  m. 

To  Briton  Ferry,  2A  miles.  Malkin;  Barber.  To  Brecon,  a  circuitous  route  of  48  miles  ;  the 

Swansea,  8  miles.  Skrine  ;  Evans ;  Donovan,  direct  road  is  about  SO  miles. 

To  Llandeilo  Fawr,  22  miles.  Wyndham. 


46] 


NEVYN. 

From  Caernarvon,  Similes.  |  From  Criccaith,  13  miles. 

NEVYNj  in  Caernarvonshire^  is  a  small  town,  in  the  hundred  of  Din- 
llaeiij  containing  a  church  dedicated  to  St.  Mary^  and  1726  inhabitants. 
It  has  a  weekly  market  on  Saturdays_,  and  annual  fairs  on  April  ll._,  Aug. 
18.,  and  Oct.  20.  Nevyn  contains  no  manufactures  or  trade  further  than 
the  demands  of  home  consumption  require.  Edward  I.,  after  a  triumphal 
revel  to  celebrate  his  conquest  of  Wales  upon  the  summit  of  Snowdon, 
adjourned  to  conclude  the  ebullitions  of  joy  for  victory,  by  solemn  rites 
upon  the  plains  of  Nevyn.  After  the  manner  of,  and  in  compliment  to, 
Arthur,  he  instituted  a  divertissement  of  tilts,  tournaments,  and  all  the 
paraphernalia  of  the  Round  Table,  probably  with  a  view  to  conciliate  the 
conquered  Welsh.  The  concourse  on  this  occasion  was  prodigious  ;  the 
chief  nobility  of  England,  and  many  foreigners  of  distinction,  w^ere  present 
at  this  proud,  hut  disgraceful  festival.  About  1-^  m.  s.  from  Nevyn,  upon 
the  shore,  is  Forth,  situated  near  a  fine  sandy  hay,  and  defended  from  the 
strong  w.  winds  by  a  narrow  headland,  its  promontory  jutting  far  out  to 
the  sea.  This  is  conjectured  to  have  been  a  harbour  frequented  by  the 
Romans  ;  there  are  vestiges  of  strong  entrenchments  still  visible  in  the 
vicinity.  Some  time  since  a  scheme  was  formed  of  improving  this  un¬ 
frequented  portion  of  the  country,  bringing  part  of  the  great  road  from 
London  to  Ireland,  through  it,  by  a  new  line  from  Merionethshire  across 
the  Traeth-Mawr,  and  constituting  this  port  a  rendezvous  for  packet-vessels 
to  Ireland,  instead  of  Holyhead.  For  this  purpose,  an  act  was  passed  in 
1806,  to  erect  a  pier,  and  other  necessary  works,  and  to  incorporate  a 
company  for  raising  money,  collecting  rates,  &c.  ;  but  on  a  subsequent 
application  to  parliament  for  pecuniary  assistance,  a  denial  was  given,  and 
the  plan,  in  consequence,  has  not  been  executed. 

Four  m.  s.w.  from  Nevyn,  is  Brynodol,  unoccupied  ;  a  respectable  man¬ 
sion,  situated  upon  an  eminence,  commanding  a  most  extensive  view  of  a 
flat  woodless  tract  of  country,  bounded  on  one  side  by  a  range  of  moun¬ 
tains,  among  which  Boduan  and  Cam  Madryn  rise  nobly  in  the  foreground, 
and  beyond  these  the  whole  Snowdonian  chain  ranges  in  majestic  grandeur. 
One  m.  s.  of  this  place  lies  Cefa  Amlwch,  an  old  seat,  unoccupied,  where  is 
a  large  cromlech,  called  Coeton  Arthur.  In  the  contiguous  parish  of 
Llaniestm,  various  Roman  urns  have  been  discovered,  at  different  times. 
About  2  m.  further  s.,  nearer  the  coast,  is  Llanywynodl.  The  Church  is  a 
neat  plain  edifice,  and  was  rebuilt  in  1825,  and  appears  to  have  been  very 
ancient.  Upon  a  column  is  the  following  inscription  :  — 

J.  GWEN  HOEDL  JACET  HIC  750. 

She  is  the  supposed  patroness  of  the  church.  On  another  column  is 
inscribed,  — 

H7EC  ^DES  iEDIFICATA  EST,  A.  D.  M. 

Churches  are  very  numerous  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  roads 
hence  to  Caernarvon  and  Tremadoc  are  good.  [See  Beddgelart.] 

To  Pwllheli,  7  miles. 


462 


NEWBOROUGH. 

From  Aberffraw,  7  miles.  |  From  Caernarvon,  5  mile?. 

NEWBOROUGH,  anciently  Llananno,  though  an  unimportant  town, 
deserves  some  regard,  as  connected  in  its  history  with  Aberffraw.  The 
British  appellation  of  this  place  is  Rhos-htr,  from  its  site  on  the  Moeldraeth 
sands,  near  a  long  dorsal  ridge,  covered  with  heath,  and  extending  to 
Mynydd  Llwydiarth.  Here  also  the  princes  of  N.  Wales  had  a  Llys,  or 
royal  palace,  of  which  there  were  two  others,  viz. ;  Llys  Hinevwr,  and 
Llys  Mathraval,  according  to  the  Welsh  Laws.”  Originally  it  ^vas  a  seat 
of  justice  for  the  comot  of  Menai,  and  continued  as  such  long  after  its  sub¬ 
jection  to  the  crown  of  England.  Edward  I.  annexed  to  it  the  royalties  of 
the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  formed  the  town  into  a  corporate  body;  hence 
the  name.  Newborough  sent  a  representative  to  parliament  in  the  third  year 
of  Henry  VIII.,  and  in  the  1st  of  Edward  VL  ;  this  privilege  was,  hovv- 
ever,  afterwards  transferred  to  Beaumaris.  The  Church  is  dedicated  to 
Arno,  or  Anno,  subsequently,  perhaps,  to  St.  Peter.  Newborough  still 
elects  a  mayor,  recorder,  bailiffs,  &c.,  but  its  ancient  glory  having  long 
since  passed  away,  they  exercise  no  jurisdiction,  hold  no  courts,  nor  transact 
any  public  business,  even  its  weekly  market  is  discontinued.  By  the  census 
of  1801,  the  number  of  inhabitants  was  804.  Some  are  employed  in 
the  manufacturing  of  mats,  nets,  and  cordage,  composed  of  sea-reed  grass, 
called  rhosir-morhesg  ropes  ;  ”  others  in  husbandry,  and  a  few  in  fishing. 
Not  far  from  what  is  considered  to  have  been  the  domestic  chapel  to  the 
royal  palace,  is  an  upright  stone,  bearing  an  inscription,  which  Rowlands 
has  thus  deciphered  :  — 

CUR . FILIUS  CURRICINI  EREXIT  HUNC 

LAPIDEM. 

Probably  it  was  set  up  in  memory  of  a  Danish  chieftain  who  fell  in 
battle.  Newborough  was  the  birthplace  and  residence  of  John  Morgan,  a 
blind  musician,  and  one  of  the  last  who  performed  upon  the  crwth,  a 
musical  instrument  of  six  strings,  the  two  lowest  of  which  were  drones, 
struck  by  the  thumb,  whilst  the  other  four  were  touched  by  a  bow.  Its 
tone  was  a  mellow  tenor,  very  soft,  and  agreeable,  being  much  on  the  same 
principle  with  the  violin,  of  which  it  perhaps  was  the  prototype.  A  man 
named  Williams  was  also  a  maker  and  performer  on  this  instrument.  Both 
these  Crwderos  are  dead,  the  crwth  is  disregarded,  and  the  enthusiastic 
attention  once  paid  to  it,  extinct.  At  Frondeg,  in  this  parish,  is  an  in¬ 
scribed  stone,  mentioned  by  Rowlands.  LJanddwyn  parish  forms  a  kind  of 
peninsula  towards  the  sea,  the  whole  of  which  is  covered  with  meals,  or 
sand-hills.  Upon  a  sandy  flat,  surrounded  by  rocks,  near  the  shore,  was  an 
oratory  of  St.  Dwynwen,  the  daughter  of  Brychan  Urtli,  a  holy  man  who 
lived  in  the  fifth  century.  So  wealthy  was  the  treasury  of  this  shrine,  in 
the  time  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  that  it  became  a  subject  of  very  serious  depre¬ 
datory  quarrel;  and,  in  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.,  the  revenues  formed  one 
of  the  richest  prebends  belonging  to  the  cathedral  of  Bangor.  The  emolu¬ 
ments  from  tithes  were  trifling,  compared  with  the  oblations  elicited  from 
the  people  by  means  of  crosses,  the  bones  of  saints,  for  tune- telling,  wells, 
ordeals  of  purity,  divination  by  fish,  and  other  dotings  of  superstition  and 
ignorance.  Upon  this  very  spot,  it  is  said,  lived  the  notorious  Richard 


NEWBOROUGH.  463 

Kyffin^  Dean  of  Bangor^  and  prebendary  of  this  churchy  when  he  carried 
on  his  clandestine  schemes  against  Richard  III. 

Abermenai  Ferry  lies  almost  opposite  to  Caernarvon  Bar.  It  is  one  of 
five  ferries  sanctioned  by  authority  between  the  island  and  main  land. 
They  were  granted  by  Henry  VIII.  to  Richard  GifFard^  who  let  them^  for 
a  term,  to  William  Bulkeley,  Esq.  This  only  now  remains  in  that  family. 
From  the  circumstances  of  sand-banks,  opposing  tides,  issuing  out  of  two 
seas,  not  one  of  these  passages  can  be  pronounced  safe.  Serious  acci¬ 
dents  have  occurred  at  each.  Tal-y-foel,  or  “  the  Bald  Headland,”  is  one 
of  the  principal  ferries.  The  place  derives  its  name  from  the  elevation  of 
the  coast,  being  higher  than  in  the  vicinity  ;  a  naked,  abrupt  rock  appears 
on  approaching  the  shore. 

In  pursuing  the  circuit  of  this  island,  we  proceed  up  the  w.  bank  of  the 
Menai  io  Llannidariy  or  the  Church  of  St.  Nidan,  once  belonging  to  a  convent 
at  Beddgelart.  It  contains  two  curiosities,  a  relic,  and  an  uncommon 
Slone. 

The  plants  near  Newborough,  are  Ruppia  maritima,  in  ditches  ;  Silene 
maritima,  and  Arenaria  peploides,  near  the  rocks ;  Arenaria  tenuifolia, 
among  the  sand  upon  the  island  ;  Crambe  maritima,  sandy  coast  between 
Lllanddwyn  and  Rhuddgaer  ;  Anthyllis  vulneraria,  var.  scarlet  petals,  upon 
the  sand  banks  ;  Erigeron  acre,  between  this  place  and  Rhudd-gaer ;  Inula 
crithmoides,  salt  marshes. 

Porthamel,  or  Porth-amwyll,  ‘‘  the  Gloomy  Ferry,”  so  called  from  the 
dense  woods  which,  in  former  times,  shaded  the  banks.  It  is  famed  as 
the  place  where  Suetonius  landed  w^hen  he  exterminated  Druidic  domination. 
The  infantry  crossed  by  means  of  flat-bottomed  boats,  near  Pwll-y-Fuwch, 
where  a  low  place  upon  the  beach  is  still  called  Pant-yr-yscaphie,  or  the 
Boat’s  Hollow,  scapha  being  the  term  which  the  Romans  applied  to  their 
small  craft.  The  horse  troops  followed  below  at  the  ford.  A  tumulus  in 
an  adjoining  field  is  supposed  to  be  the  holocaustic  spot  wdiere  the  terrified 
Druids  brandished  their  firebrands,  and  the  infatuated  multitude  were 
committed  to  the  flames  of  their  own  sacrificial  fires.  Upon  the  top  of 
Gwydryn  Hill,  is  a  semicircular  fortified  post  called  Caer  Idris,  surrounded 
by  a  triple  foss  and  vallum  ;  its  name  and  figure  indicate  it  to  be  of  British 
origin.  Moel-y-Don  is  another  of  the  usual  ferries  over  the  Menai.  Lla- 
nedwen  is  chiefly  noticed  as  having  given  birth  to  the  Rev.  Henry  Row¬ 
lands,  author  of  Mona  Antiqua  Restorata.”  His  remains  were  deposited 
under  a  black  slab  of  Anglesea  marble,  in  the  s.  side  of  the  church,  and  the  old 
oak  chair  in  which  he  sat  while  writing  that  wmrk  is  still  preserved  at  Plas 
Gvvyn.  Plds  Coch,  the  residence  of  W.  Bulkeley  Hughes,  Esq.,  M.  P.,  is  a 
mansion  in  the  style  of  the  15th  century,  embowwed  in  a  luxuriant  wood. 
Crossing  the  public  road,  we  enter  the  grounds  of  Plds-Newydd,  the  elegant 
seat  of  the  Marquess  of  Anglesea.  The  style  is  castellated  Gothic.  The  front 
is  semilunar,  and  presents  two  semi-sectagonal  wings.  The  fa(pade  is  re¬ 
lieved  by  octagonal  turrets  on  each  side  the  centre  :  the  respective  wings 
rise  from  the  base  above  the  embattled  parapet.  Between  them  are  two 
slender  Gothic  ones  terminating  in  spires.  A  few  full-length  portraits  are 
here,  by  Hoppner.  The  situation  is  finely  chosen  on  a  curve  of  the  Menai. 
The  edifice  is  surrounded  nearly  with  the  noble  oak.  The  lawn  slopes 
gracefully  to  the  shore,  on  which  a  strong  embattled  wall  is  erected  and 
acts  as  a  check  to  the  encroachments  of  the  watery  element.  The  shores 
of  the  Menai  are  rocky  and  precipitous  ;  the  scenery  bold,  striking,  and 
occasionally  beautifully  picturesque.  Llanfair  Pwl-gwyng-yll  is  situated 
near  the  dangerous  passage  of  the  Swelly  Rocks,  derived  probably  from 


464 


NEWCASTLE  EMLYN. 


pwU,  or  pool,  gwing,  to  wriggle^  and  liyll,  hideous  ;  i.e.  ‘‘a,  hideous  wriggling 
pool,”  allusive  to  the  opposite  whirlpool  in  the  Menai.  Other  conjectures 
as  to  the  derivation  of  this  word  have  been  made  ;  for  instance,  pwU,  a 
pool,  gwyn  rage,  and  gwyll  dark,  i.  e.  the  gloomy  raging  pool.”  Upon  a 
rocky  eminence  near  the  shore  in  this  parish,  is  the  site  of  an  ancient 
British  fortification,  Craig-y-dinas,  opposite  to  which  are  the  Swelly  Rocks ; 
many  are  visible  at  low  water,  between  which  the  sea  runs  with  great  ra- 
pj^dity.  Llandyssilio,  whose  church  is  dedicated  to  Tyssilio,  1  m.  further, 
is  curiously  situated  upon  a  small  rocky  peninsula  jutting  into  the  sea. 
This,  at  high  water,  forms  an  islet  called  Pen-glds,  comprising  a  few  acres 
of  land,  and  affords  pasturage  for  sheep.  A  causeway  unites  it  to  the  op¬ 
posite  beach,  passable  only  at  ebb-tide.  It  is  a  circumstance  almost  pe¬ 
culiar  to  Anglesea  that  most  of  its  seventy-four  parish  churches  are  placed 
not  far  distant  from  the  shore.  In  some,  the  time  of  service  is  adapted  to 
the  state  of  the  waters,  for  when  the  wind  blows  briskly  in  one  direction, 
the  tide  will  set  in  earlier  than  expected,  causing  an  indecorous  breaking  up 
of  the  devotions  of  the  congregation.  This  is  sometimes  the  case  both  at 
this  place  and  at  Llangwyfan  near  Aberfraw.  Mr.  Rowlands  says,  that  he 
met  with  an  extract  from  a  deed  contained  in  a  volume  in  the  possession 
of  Sir  W.  Gryffyth,  whence  it  appears  that  the  natives  of  Llandyssilio  W'^ere 
once  sold  as  an  appendage  of  the  estate  to  which  the  lands  belonged. 
{Mona  Antigua,  p.  122.) 

To  Menai  Bridge,  12  miles. 


NEWCASTLE  EMLYN. 

From  Lampeter,  18|  miles.  Skrine  ;  Malkin.  I  From  Cardigan,  10  miles.  Lipscomb. 

•Cilgerran,  7  miles.  Evans.  | 

NEWCASTLE  EMLYN,  or  Dinas  Emlvn.  This  village  is  partly  in 
Cardiganshire,  partly  in  Carmarthenshire,  on  the  direct  road  from  Car¬ 
digan  to  Lampeter,  and  pleasantly  situated  upon  the  banks  of  the  river 
Teifi,  which  yields  abundance  of  trout:  the  salmon  found  in  it  is  famous 
throughout  Wales.  The  population  of  this  place  was,  in  1801,  854 
inhabitants,  19 1  houses.  Its  Castle  was  rebuilt  by  Sir  Rice  ap  Thomas, 
who  made  it  one  of  his  principal  residences.  Its  situation  is  highly 
picturesque.  The  approach  from  the  town  is  particularly  fine.  The  arched 
gateway  about  14  ft.  high,  supported  by  two  octagon  towers,  exhibits  the 
romantic  character  of  the  country  beyond  to  a  singular  advantage.  But 
what  gives  to  this  spot  a  degree  of  interest  so  peculiarly  its  OAvn,  is  the 
sportive  course  of  the  river  at  this  place.  The  Teifi  enters  the  valley  from 
the  N.E.  and  flows  in  a  straight  line  till  it  arrives  nearly  underneath  the 
castle  ;  it  then  takes  a  sudden  turn,  and,  instead  of  winding  immediately 
round  the  foot  of  the  hill,  darts  back  again  for  a  considerable  way,  in  a 
course  parallel  with  its  first  channel,  and  near  to  it.  It  then  sweeps  round 
majestically  in  front,  leaving  a  long  and  very  beautiful  meadovv  between  it 
and  the  castle,  and  comes  down  again  on  the  opposite  side,  with  features  of 
a  different  character.  Here  its  bed  becomes  impeded  by  rocks,  through 
which  it  furrows  a  deep,  tortuous,  and  noisy  course,  and  rolls  with  much 
impetuosity  under  the  venerable  bridge.  Thus  is  the  castle  almost  sur¬ 
rounded  with  a  magnificent  natural  moat.  This  horse-shoe  bend  is  far  more 
curious  and  striking  than  that  of  the  Wye  or  the  Severn  at  Shrewsbury — 
B.  H.  Malkin.  The  Church  at  Newcastle  is  a  chapel  of  ease  to  Cennarth. 

W.  Griffiths,  a  fisherman  of  this  place,  lately  presented  at  the  Mansion 


NEWCASTLE  EMLYN. 


465 


House,  a  dried  Teifi  salmon  of  the  most  exquisite  quality,  for  which  he 
would  accept  of  no  remuneration  except  a  line  of  acknowledgment  in  the 
lord  mayor’s  own  handwriting.  This  is  the  second  presentation  from  this 
humble  individual  to  the  same  civic  authority.  Inn,  The  Salutation. 

The  turnpike-road  to  Cardigan  lies  through  Aherceri,  11  m.  21  m. 
further  on  the  1.  is  Penwern-fach  and  beyond  is  Blaen  Pant,  William  Owen 
Brigstock,  Esq.  Pont-hirwen,  1  m.  Pant-gwyn,  2  m.  ;  cross  a  brook  which 
falls  into  the  Teifi  on  the  1.  at  Llwyn-y-Grawys,  1^  m.  Llangoedmawr ,  2  m. 
H.  Vaughan,  Esq.  Cardigan,  2  m. 

In  going  TO  Cardigan,  instead  of  crossing  Aherceri,  Mr.  Malkin 
advises  the  tourist  to  take  the  Carmarthenshire  side  of  the  river,  from  the 
bridge,  for  about  3  m.  below,  till  he  comes  to  the  river  Cych,  which  divides 
the  counties  of  Carmarthen  and  Pembroke.  Instead  of  crossing  the  stream, 
a  path  to  the  r.  leads  to  Cenarth,  where  there  is  a  noted  salmon  leap  on  the 
Teifi.  Beyond  is  Stradmore,  J.  N.  Taylor,  Esq. 

To  Aberystwith,  Mr.  Evans  first  visited  the  wmods  of  Henllan,  and 
the  vale  above  Llandyssil,  and  then  turned  towards  the  sea.  Leaving 
Bronwyn  on  the  1.  and  passing  by  Capel  Drindod,  he  reached  a  spot  called 
Craig  Gwyrtheyrn,  where  stood  the  palace  of  Vortigern,  at  present  a  naked 
precipitous  rock.  Passing  the  village  of  Troeth-yr-awr,  he  descended  into  the 
fertile  valley  of  Cwm  Ceri,  bounded  by  wooded  hills.  On  an  angle  formed 
by  the  conflux  of  a  small  rivulet  into  the  Ceri,  on  a  circularly  shaped  hill, 
is  a  British  encampment,  consisting  of  a  double  dike  and  fosse,  called 
Dinas  Ceri.  The  inhabitants  of  this  district  are  poor  and  the  soil  barren 
and  unsheltered.  The  huts  are  chiefly  built  of  mud,  with  chimneys  form.ed 
of  wicker-work.  Passing  Blaenporth,  there  are  some  intrenchments  called 
Castell  Nadolig  or  Yndalig,  said  to  be  a  fortress  erected  by  Earl  Gilbert  and 
his  Flemings,  which  was  taken  and  razed  by  Gryffyd  ap  Rhys,  a.  d.  1113, 
named  Blaen^porth  Gwyrtheyrn.  A  little  below,  on  a  small  creek,  is  the 
hamlet  of  Aherporth.  Skirting  along  the  coast  n.  occurs  a  cove,  called  Traeth 
Saith,  of  uncommon  beauty.  Several  fine  curvatures  beneath  perpendicular 
schistose  rocks,  form  cliffs  nearly  600  ft.  high.  To  the  s.  it  is  sheltered  by 
the  headlands  of  Pen  Bryn  and  Pen  Brybbach,  and  to  the  n.  by  Moel-y- 
badell  and  Inys  Llochdu.  Crossing  Pont-yr-Yanc,  is Llandyssilio  Gogo,  where 
Dafydd  ap  Evan  entertained  the  Earl  of  Richmond  and  his  followers,  which 
the  Earl  (afterwards  Henry  VII.)  acknowledged  by  rich  presents,  par¬ 
ticularly  a  drinking  horn,  formerly  in  the  possession  of  John  Vaughan,  Esq., 
of  Golden  Grove,  Carmarthenshire.  The  Church  is  dedicated  to  St. 
Tyssilio,  and  consists  of  a  nave,  south  aisle,  and  chancel ;  the  living  is  a 
vicarage  in  the  gift  of  the  Bishop  of  St.  David’s.  By  the  w.  door  of  the  nave 
is  a  receptacle  for  holy-water.  Near  a  dilapidated  chapel  in  a  turbary,  was 
dug  up,  about  the  year  1798)  antique  vessel,  somewhat  resembling  a 
coffee-pot,  made  of  bell-metal,  and  9  inches  in  height.  It  was  in  the 
possession  of  David  Lloyd,  Esq.  of  AUt-yr-Odin,  upon  whose  estate  it  was 
found.  Between  Llanllwchaiarn  and  Plan  Ina,  or  Plan  liar,  is  a  harbour 
called  New  Quay.  Crossing  the  mountains,  and  descending  into  the 
vale,  there  is  a  small  inn  called  the  Aberaeron.  Planydiystud  is  a 
poor  village,  with  a  neat  church,  standing  upon  a  high  hill  to  the  s.  e. 
On  the  sea-shore  are  some  ruins,  said  to  be  the  remains  of  a  religious 
house,  but  evidently  those  of  a  castle  built  by  Cadwalladr,  brother  of 
Owain  Gwynedd,  in  1148,  who  gave  this  part  of  Cardiganshire  to  his  son 
Howel.  From  Aberaeron  to  this  place  is  an  extensive  flat  between  the 
sea  and  the  e.  mountains,  famed  for  producing  from  60  to  80  bushels  of 
fine  barley  per  acre.  These  lands  are  dressed  every  three  years  with  the 

H  H 


NEWCASTLE  ExMLYN. 


466 

sea-wreck  in  its  wet  state,  and  are  yearly  under  barley  without  a  single 
intervening  crop.  Two  m.  from  this  village  are  two  rude  upright  stones, 
one  of  them  12  ft.  high.  Passing  over  a  high  ridge  of  land  exhibiting  the 
most  delightful  scenery,  the  Ystwith  occurs,  over  which  is  thrown  a  stone 
bridge  of  one  arch.  Climbing  a  high  slate  hill,  and  descending  into  the 
vale  of  the  Rheidol,  the  traveller  reaches  Aberystwith  over  a  handsome 
stone  bridge.  (J".  Evans.') 

To  Lampeter,  leave  to  the  n.  Cilgwyn  ;  T.  Lloyd,  Esq.  of  Coedmawr, 
is  the  present  proprietor.  Llandyfriog ,  dedicated  to  Tyfriog  or  Tyfrydog, 
2  m.  in  a  romantic  situation.  The  living  is  a  vicarage  in  the  bishopric  of 
St.  David’s.  There  is  another  route  from  Llandyfriog  to  Allt-yr-Odin 
Arms,  by  continuing  upon  Aberbank,  m. ;  here  two  brooks  unite.  Up 
the  first  stream,  pi  m.,  lies  Bronwydd,  a  delightful  situation,  overlooking  a 
well-wooded  vale,  the  seat  of  T.  Lloyd,  Esq.  One  m.  to  the  s.  of  Aber¬ 
bank,  is  Henllan,  i.  e.  Old  Church.  In  this  parish  is  one  of  the  finest 
cascades  on  the  Teifi,  called  Frwdeu  Henllan.  A  dingle  near  the  river 
is  called  Cwm  Iwhwh.  m.  n.  e.  of  Bronwydd  is  Pen- Baili -bach,  the 

seat  of - Davies,  Esq.,  formerly  called  Pen-y-Beili  Bedw,  on  account 

of  a  tumulus  near  it.  Llangynllo  lies  ^  m.  w.  of  the  last  place.  The 
living  is  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  the  freeholders  of  the  parish,  and  dedi¬ 
cated  to  Cynllo  one  of  those  primitive  Christians  by  whom  the  Welsh 
churches  were  originally  founded  before  the  Anglo-Roman  churches  were 
established  ;  for  it  is  an  indisputable  fact  that  the  ancient  Britons  had 
churches  of  their  own,  built  after  a  fashion  of  their  own,  with  sacred  edi¬ 
fices  dedicated  to  their  own  saints,  and  enjoyed  their  own  hierarchy  pre¬ 
vious  to  the  arrival  of  Augustin,  a.  d.  597-  There  is  reason  to  suppose 
that  Heyop  and  Whitton  were  once  subordinate  to  this  church.  Llangunllo 
stands  upon  an  elevated  situation,  commanding  an  extensive  view  down 
the  vale  of  Bronwydd,  across  the  Teifi.  It  consists  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and 
porch.  One  m.  further  n.  e.  i^Felin  Gernos,  the  seat  of  Llewellyn  Parry,  Esq. 
One  m.  from  Aberbank,  upon  the  turnpike-road  at  Pen  Rhiwllan,  and  the 
4th  from  Newcastle,  midway  between  the  turnpike- road  and  the  Teifi,  lies 
Flanfair  Orlwyn,  i.  e.  St.  Mary’s  in  the  Grove.  The  church  is  a  rec¬ 
tory  in  the  gift  of  the  Bishop  of  St.  David’s.  1  ^  m.  further  is  a  place  called 
Horeb  (from  ‘^‘hor”  a  hill,  and  ‘^‘^eb”  to  flow),  whence  rises  the  stream 
Merwydd.  One  m.  further,  cross  the  valley  and  brook  Cerdyn.  Pass  some 
cross-roads  to  Pant-y-Defuid,  2  m.,  where  the  Clettwr  is  crossed.  One  m. 
on  the  r.  down  this  valley  is  Allt-yr-Odin,  the  seat  of  David  Lloyd,  Esq. 

There  is  another  route  from  Llandyfriog  to  Allt-yr-Odin  Arnw,  by 
continuing  upon  the  banks  of  the  river  to  Bangor  or  Banchor,  in  the 
manor  of  Dyfryn  Teifi.  The  church  is  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  the  Bishop 
of  St.  David’s  ;  it  stands  upon  a  steep  eminence  close  by  the  river,  answer¬ 
ing  to  its  name  Ban-chdr.  It  consists  simply  of  a  nave  and  chancel.  Tlie 
font  is  much  carved.  About  |  m.  e.  of  the  church  is  a  circular  moated 
tumulus,  called  Castell  Pistog.  Passing  Penlon  and  Gilfach-wen,  about 
midway  reach  Flandyssul,  distant  from  Bangor  S  m.  This  is  an  extensive 
parish,  there  being  once,  besides  the  mother  church,  six  chapels  of  ease  ; 
each  of  these  stood  in  a  separate  hamlet ;  i.  e.  Faerdre,  Capel  Dewi,  Llandys- 
sulfed,  Borthin,  Llanfair,  and  Capel  Ffraid.  A  manuscript,  purporting  to 
be  a  chronicle  of  two  battles,  was  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Silvanus  Jones,  of 
this  parish,  but  cannot  be  relied  on.  (See  AleyricF s  Cardiganshi? e,  p.  141.) 
The  church  of  Llandyssul  is  dedicated  to  St.  Tyssul,  and  stands  close  to  the 
Teifi  ;  it  is  large  and  handsome,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  chancel,  two  side 
aisles,  and  a  square  tower.  The  living  is  a  vicarage,  in  the  gift  of  the 
Bishop  of  St.  David’s,  worth  about  600/.  per  annum.  In  the  yard  is  an 


NEWCASTLE  EMLYN. 


467 

old  inscribed  stone^  1  ft.  6  in.  long,  1  ft.  2  in.  broad_,  and  about  8  in.  thiclc^ 
upon  which  are  the  following  letters,  velvor  hlim  brche,  in  three  lines. 
The  meaning  of  them  cannot  be  made  out.  It  now  serves  for  part  of  a 
stile  leading  to  the  churchyard  !  Not  far  from  the  church  is  a  hill,  upon 
which  stands  the  ruins  of  a  castle  wall,  called  Castell  Gwynionydd,  or  Yr 
H  en  Castell,  of  which  no  authentic  account  is  preserved.  It  is  supposed 
to  ha^e  been  the  baronial  residence  of  the  lords  of  Gwynionydd.  All  that 
remains  is  a  circularly  moated  tumulus,  with  the  dilapidated  foundation 
of  the  keep.  In  this  parish  is  another  circular  moated  tumulus,  re¬ 
sembling  that  before  mentioned,  now  called  Cil-y-graig,  but  formerly 
Castell  Abereinon,  built  by  Maelgwyn,  in  1205.  There  are  also  here 
four  carneddau,  or  heaps  of  large  stones,  three  lying  near  each  other, 
and  the  fourth  at  a  great  distance  ;  in  one  of  them  were  found  three 
earthen  jars  containing  ashes.  Between  the  public-house  called  Allt-yr- 
Odin  Arms,  and  Allt-yr-Odin,  is  a  ford  called  Rhyd  Owain,  probably  from 
Ovvain  Gwynedd.  1  |  m.  is  a  tumulus  called  Cam  Owen.  Proceeding 
from  Llandyssul,  cross  the  river  Cerdyn  at  Felin-pont-hailwen,  turn  to  the 
r.  proceed  by  Fardre-fawr,  where  a  brook  is  crossed  ;  m.  further  cross  a 
second  brook,  and  soon  after  the  Einon,  where  it  falls  into  the  Cletwr ; 
proceed  up  the  banks  to  a  fish-pond,  on  the  1.,  in  the  grounds  of  Allt-yr- 
Odin,  the  seat  of  David  Lloyd,  Esq.  This  family  is  descended  from  Rhys 
Lloyd,  the  second  son  of  David  ab  Llywelyn  Llywyd,  Esq.,  of  Castell  Hywell. 
Gaining  the  turnpike-road  at  Allt-yr-Odin  Arms,  9^  rn*  from  Newcastle, 
pass  Camnant,  near  a  little  meandering  brook,  from  which  it  takes  its  name, 
and  falls  into  the  Clettwr.  It  formerly  belonged  to  David  ab  Rhys.  Pass 
Blaenhirhant,  2  m.  and  Llanwenog  Church,  1^  m.  Upon  the  banks  of  the 
Teifi  are  two  circular  mounds  of  earth,  one  near  Crug-y-Whyl ;  the  other  lies 
half  way  between  Llan-y-bydder  and  Llanfychan.  A  tumulus,  called  Crug- 
yn-Udon,  being  opened  in  a  field  called  Caebant,  belonging  to  Bwlchmawr, 
an  earthen  glazed  coffin  was  found  containing  bones.  In  a  farm  called 
Crescent  Grove,  adjoining  Bwlchmawr,  was  dug  up,  about  the  year  1800,  two 
broken  hand  millstones,  2  ft.  in  diameter.  Upon  the  farm  pf  T yearn,  is  a 
square  entrenchment,  called  Clawdd  Buarth,  from  its  similitude  to  a  sheep- 
fold.  The  field  in  which  it  stands  was  anciently  termed  Ca’er-faes.  The 
Church  of  Llanwenog  consists  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  s.  aisle,  and  a  high  square 
tower  at  its  w.  end  ;  it  is  dedicated  to  St.  Gwenog.  The  pointed  arch  is  here 
in  its  purest  state;  this  structure,  therefore,  was  probably  erected  in  the  13th 
century;  its  tower  indicates  the  style  of  Henry  VIII.  In  the  side  aisle  the 
pointed  arch  is  flattened,  a  peculiarity  adopted  in  the  time  of  Richard  II., 
which  prevailed  till  that  of  Henry  VIII.  On  the  outside  of  the  w.  wall  of 
this  aisle  is  a  very  ancient  carved  stone,  representing  Christ  and  the  two  Marys. 
The  font  is  large  and  dodecagonal.  Llanfechan,  i.  e.  little  church,  was  for¬ 
merly  a  chapel,  attached  to  Llanwenog,  but  it  was  afterwards  displaced  by  an 
elegant  mansion,  the  residence  of  Admiral  Thomas,  rear  admiral  of  the  red, 
deputy  lieutenant,  and  justice  of  the  peace  for  the  county.  The  grounds  have 
been  planted  with  great  judgment,  and  the  proprietor  is  recorded  as  liberal, 
generous,  and  hospitable.  His  father  was  a  Lloyd  of  the  family  who 
long  had  possession  of  the  estate,  but  changed  his  name  to  Thomas.  In 
the  kitchen  garden  is  an  ancient  inscribed  stone,  about  9  ft*  3  in.  in  height 
above  the  ground,  inscribed  trenacatus  ic  jacet  filius  maglagni.” 
At  15^  m.  reach  Llanwnen,  placed  upon  the  banks  of  the  river  Crannell. 
A  moated  tumulus,  called  Castell-ddu,  wot  far  from  the  church,  evidently  de¬ 
signed  to  protect  the  passage  across  the  river  Crannell,  gives  name  to  a  large 
farm  adjoining.  About  the  year  1802  some  silver  coins  were  dug  up  in  a 

H  H  2 


468  NEWPORT,  MONMOUTHSHIRE. 


field,  on  the  estate  Cefn  Lewtref.  They  were  triangular  with  a  hole  in 
the  centre,  and  each  had  a  circular  inscription,  hut  no  care  was  taken  of 
them.  The  Church  of  Llanwnen  is  small;  it  is  in  the  gift  of  the  Bishop 
of  St.  David’s,  and  subordinate  to  Llansilian.  Not  far  distant  is  Troed~yr- 
awr,  situated  in  a  pleasing  valley.  Pass  Undergrove,  and  reach  Peter  Well, 
on  the  r.,  a  magnificent  mansion,  now  in  ruins,  originally  built  by  Daniel 
Evans,  Esq.,  of  Llechwydd  Derrys,  in  the  parish  of  Llanwnen,  agent  to 
Oliver  Cromwell.  It  was  partly  rebuilt  by  a  Daniel  Evans,  who  married 
Mary,  the  daughter  of  Morgan  Herbert,  Esq.,  of  Havod  Ychdryd;  hut  he 
died  before  it  was  finished,  in  I696.  Colonel  Baily  Wallis  afterwards  be¬ 
came  the  owner.  Lampeter,  ^  m. 

To  Carmarthen  nothing  remarkable  occurs  till  you  have  proceeded 
12  m.,  when  a  noble  eminence  displays  a  rich  valley,  bounded  by  the  Glamor¬ 
ganshire  hills,  the  town  of  Kidwelly  lying  near  the  sea- side,  and  the  fine 
arm  which  receives  the  Towy. 

Angling  Station,  Llangollen,  5  m.,  on  the  Teifi.  Beautiful  sport. 


To  Cardigan,  10  miles.  Malkin;  Skrine. 
Aberystwith,  38  miles.  Evans. 
Carmarthen,  20  miles.  Lipscomb. 


To  Lampeter,  19  miles. 

Newport,  Pern.,  10  miles. 
Llandovery,  19^  miles. 


NEWPORT,  MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

From  Cardiff,  12  miles.  Barber.  From  Caerleon,  3  miles.  Wyndham  •  Skrine  - 

Penhow  Castle,  TJ  miles.  Coxe.  Evans  ;  Donovan  ;  WArner  ;  Manby. 

NEWPORT  is  a  borough,  market-town,  and  parish,  in  the  hundred  of 
Wentloog,  Monmouthshire.  It  is  situated  upon  the  w.  side  of  the  river 
Usk,  which  is  navigable  up  to  the  bridge  for  vessels  of  large  burden.  The 
spring  tides  often  rise  40  feet,  especially  when  there  is  a  brisk  gale  from  the 
w.  s.  w.  A  Canal,  distant  m.  from  the  town,  branches  in  one  direction  1  m. 
beyond  Pont-y-Pool,  where  a  tramroad  from  the  iron-works  at  Blaenavon 
and  the  Varteg  terminates.  Other  railways  lead  to  the  Blorenge.  [See 
Abergavenny.]  This  branch  of  the  canal  is  joined  by  those  of  the  Aberga¬ 
venny  and  Brecon,  1  m.  below  Pont-y-Pool,  which  conveys  iron  from  Nant- 
y~glo,  Llanelly,  &c.  where  coal  is  abundant,  and  extensive  works  for  making 
bar-iron  and  tin  ore  are  carried  on.  The  other  branch  to  the  w.  extends  to 
Crumlin,  12  m.,  is  joined  by  a  tramroad,  which  reaches  to  the  Beaufort 
and  Ebbw  Vale  iron  works.”  Upon  this  line  there  are  extensive  coal  mines. 
The  tramroad  advances  from  1  m.  below  Newport  to  the  newly  built  towns 
of  Tredegar  and  Sirhowy,  distant  24  m.,  passing  through  the  park  of  Sir 
C.  Morgan,  Bart.,  2  m.,  and  up  the  valleys  of  Bassalleg,  parallel  with  the  river 
Ebbw  to  Risca,  where  it  crosses  the  stream  over  a  stone  bridge  of  36 
arches,  each  30  ft.  span.  Hence  it  is  continued  by  the  side  of  the  Sirhowy 
river,  where  ranges  of  mountains  run  upon  each  side.  Twelve  market  boats 
ply  from  Newport  to  Bristol,  two  of  them  being  sloops  of  100  tons  burden. 
In  May,  1822,  a  new  medium  of  conveyance  was  established  to  Bristol  by 
a  company  of  ship-owners  resident  at  Newport,  by  means  of  two  steam- 
packets  which  leave  Bristol  in  the  morning  and  return  the  same  evening. 
In  calm  weather  the  passage  is  made  in  24  hours.  In  September  follow¬ 
ing  another  packet  was  added,  which  leaves  Newport  every  morning,  and 
returns  from  Bristol  every  evening.  The  quantity  of  pig-iron,  castings, 
bar  and  bolt  iron,  tin  plates,  wire,  and  coals,  shipped  from  this  port  exceeds 
that  of  any  other  in  the  Principality.  The  town  is  in  a  state  of  rapidly 
progressive  prosperity.  The  quarter  ending  the  5th  of  July,  1838, 


NEWPORT,  MONMOUTHSHIRE.  469 

amounted  to  141, 507^*  ;  the  corresponding  quarter  of  the  previous  year 
only  to  39,880^.  Much  more  is  expected  on  the  opening  of  the  floating 
dock.  The  port  of  this  place  was  made  free  by  act  of  parliament  in  1821. 
In  1812,  ’this  town  contained  202  houses  and  1135  inhabitants;  in 
1821,  3496  inhabitants;  in  1831,  7062.  A  new  Market  House  has  been 
erected  by  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  who  is  lord  of  the  manor  and  receives 
the  tolls.  The  market  is  held  on  Saturdays  and  Wednesdays.  The  town 
is  governed  by  a  mayor,  recorder,  twelve  aldermen,  and  a  toAvn  clerk.  In 
conjunction  with  Monmouth,  this  place  sends  one  member  for  the  borough 
to  parliament,  and  two  for  the  county.  The  mail-coach  passes  Newport 
from  London  to  Bristol  over  the  old  passage.  There  is  also  a  mail  to  Aber¬ 
gavenny.  Another  coach,  called  the  Monarch,  passes  from  Gloucester,  &c.  to 
Swansea.  The  Hero  runs  from  Newport  through  Monmouth  to  Birming¬ 
ham.  One  through  Newbridge  and  Nant-y-glo  ;  and  another  to  Pont- y- 
Pool  answers  to  the  packets.  Letters  are  conveyed  up  the  hills  by  cross  posts. 

This  town,  called  by  Giraldus,  Novus  Burgus,  arose  out  of  the  declining 
greatness  of  Caerleon,  and  was  denominated  by  the  Welsh,  Castell  Newydd, 
or  Newcastle.  Robert  Earl  of  Gloucester,  natural  son  of  Henry  I.,  obtained 
the  lordship  of  Monmouth  in  right  of  his  wife,  Maud,  daughter  of  Robert 
Fitzhamon,  with  other  possessions.  He  erected  the  castles  of  Bristol,  Car¬ 
diff*  and  Newport.  William,  the  son  of  Robert,  garrisoned  this  castle 
strongly,  in  II7I.  In  the  year  1173,  Henry  II.  had  deprived  Prince 
Jorwerth  ap  Owain  of  a  great  part  of  his  possessions  ;  but  while  Henry  was 
engaged  in  the  French  war  the  Welsh  chieftain  repossessed  himself  of  it. 
Henry  on  his  return  found  him  very  formidable,  and  proposed  peace.  For 
the  sake  of  negotiation  he  offered  a  safe  passage  to  Jorw^erth  and  his  sons;  but 
while  his  oldest  son  Owain  ap  Caradog  was  on  the  road  to  meet  his  father, 
some  soldiers  from  the  garrison  of  Newport  slew  the  young  and  valiant 
chieftain.  If  this  was  done  at  Henry’s  instigation,  it  marks  a  cruel  and 
mistaken  policy.  When  this  account  reached  the  ears  of  Jorwerth  he 
broke  off  the  conference,  and  returned  with  his  younger  son  Howell. 
Roused  by  this  perfidious  act,  the  Welsh  rallied  round  his  standard,  breath¬ 
ing  revenge,  they  carried  fire  and  sword  upon  the  banks  of  the  Severn 
and  the  Wye,  to  the  gates  of  Hereford  and  Gloucester.  The  Castle,  stand¬ 
ing  near  the  foot  of  the  bridge,  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Usk,  is  of  inconsider¬ 
able  dimensions.  The  structure  forms  nearly  a  parallelogram,  and  is  con¬ 
structed  with  rubble,  coigned  with  hewn  stone.  The  side  towards  the  town 
consisted  of  a  plain  wall,  without  any  buttresses,  which  is  removed  in  part 
or  obscured  by  other  buildings.  Towards  the  n.,  in  the  centre,  is  a  square 
tower  forming  the  citadel.  It  was  formerly  flanked  with  small  turrets,  but 
is  now  covered  with  red  pan-tiles.  Beneath  is  a  sally  post,  facing  the  river, 
having  a  pointed  arch  and  grooves  for  a  portcullis.  On  each  side  is  a  massive 
tower,  with  windows  and  eyelets,  in  the  pointed  style.  The  centre  or  square 
tower  contains  the  state  room,  under  a  fine  vaulted  roof.  Adjoining  are  the 
remains  of  the  baronial  hall,  with  decorated  windows  of  rich  stone  tracery. 
The  Castle  came  into  the  possession  of  Richard  de  Clare,  Earl  of  Hereford, 
and  descended  to  the  Les  Despencers.  It  continued  in  this  family  till  the 
attainder  of  Edward,  third  duke  of  Buckingham,  when  the  castle  and  lord- 
ship  were  seized  by  Henry  VIII.  It  w^as  restored  to  Hugh  de  Audley, 
and  came  by  marriage  to  Ralph  Earl  of  Stafford.  Newport  was  once 
surrounded  by  walls,  of  which  no  vestiges  remain.  It  appears  from  Leland 
that  three  gates  were  standing  in  his  time  :  a  large  one  of  stone  occurs  near 
the  bridge  and  castle,  another  near  the  church,  and  a  third  in  the  centre 
of  High  Street,  The  site  of  those  adjoining  the  bridge  and  church  may  be 

H  H  3 


470  NEWPORT,  MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

traced  ;  the  central  one  was  taken  down  about  the  year  1808.  An  old  build¬ 
ing  near  the  spot  where  the  latter  gate  stood,  called  the  Murenger’s  House, 
was  left  standing  till  the  year  181 6.  The  Murenger  was  an  officer  of  conse¬ 
quence,  who  superintended  the  walls,  and  collected  the  tolls  for  keeping  them 
in  repair.  This  edifice,  which  was  ornamented  in  front  with  shields  and 
arms,  carved  in  stone,  over  an  antiquated  doorway,  has  been  taken  down,  and 
a  building  of  one  story  only,  with  a  handsome  freestone  front  and  portico. 

Newport  is  somewhat  irregularly  built.  Commercial  Street  commences 
near  the  bridge,  and  advances  up  a  declivity  called  Stow  Hill,  the  sum¬ 
mit  of  which  is  crowned  with  the  parish  Church  of  St.  Woolas.  The 
principal  Inns  are  the  King’s  Head  and  ITestgate,  which  provide  post- 
horses.  The  Parrot  is  a  commercial  house.  There  are  many  good  shops, 
including  that  of  a  bookseller’s  and  printer’s,  several  breweries,  two  iron 
founderies,  and  a  shot  manufactory.  The  chief  bustle  of  trade  is,  however, 
to  be  found  upon  the  wharfs. 

The  wooden  Bridge,  of  which  a  print  is  given  in  Williams’s  Monmouth¬ 
shire,  was  taken  down,  and  the  present  handsome  one  of  stone  erected  upon 
the  site  of  the  former,  by  the  architect  of  Pont-y-Pridd  and  bis  two  sons. 
Leland  says  ther  was  a  house  of  religion  by  the  key,  beneth  the  bridge.’’ 
(J^m.  iv.  53.)  Tanner  has  conjectured  that  it  was  a  monastery  of  friars 
preachers.  The  remains  are  near  the  river  below  the  bridge,  consisting  of 
several  detached  apartments  ;  the  fratry,  with  its  windows,  and  the  n.  tran¬ 
sept  of  the  conventual  church.  The  gardens  are  yet  bounded  by  the  ori¬ 
ginal  wall.  The  Church,  dedicated  to  Gwynllyw  Filwr,  under  the  name  of 
St.  Woolas,  and  called  by  Leland  St.  Guntle  (Olave,  in  English),  consists 
of  a  lofty  square  tower  (which  serves  as  a  landmark  from  the  channel),  a 
nave,  with  two  aisles,  a  chancel  and  a  small  chapel,  now  used  as  a  ceme¬ 
tery.  This  Church,”  says  Mr.  Barber,  ‘‘exhibits  the  architecture  of  several 
ages  ;  its  nave,  separated  from  the  side  aisles,  by  a  colonnade  of  clumsy 
pillars,  comprehends  the  original  church,  which  is  of  the  oldest  mode  of 
building,  and  may  be  considered  of  a  date  prior  to  the  settlement  of  the 
Normans ;  the  chancel  and  aisles  are  of  a  later  date.  The  doorway,  at 
the  w.  end  of  the  tower,  which  was  the  original  principal  entrance,  has  been 
opened,  and  that  on  the  s.  side  walled  up.  The  entrance  through  St.  Mary’s 
chapel  affords,  in  a  circular  archway,  some  curious  Saxon  carving,  with  several 
hatcheted,  crenellated,  and  billeted  mouldings,  resting  upon  two  capitals  of 
rude  foliage.  This  church  is  heated  by  stoves  and  flues.  The  organ  was 
erected  in  the  year  1819,  purchased  by  voluntary  subscription.  Consi¬ 
derable  additions  and  improvements  have  recently  been  bestowed  upon  it. 
The  church  has  been  lately  coloured  and  washed,  as  the  present  appearance  of 
many  a  musty  tablet  amply  testifles.  It  contains  three  ancient  monuments  : 
one  is  an  armed  knight,  beneath  a  canopy  supported  by  three  pillars,  who 
probably  lived  in  the  time  of  Elizabeth.  Upon  the  floor  of  the  chancel  is 
an  effigiated  grave-stone,  very  ancient.  There  are  also  the  remnants  of  two 
other  monuments  :  one  a  mutilated  knight  in  armour,  anti  a  female  figure, 
apparently  of  the  15th  century  ;  the  other,  a  headless  trunk,  having  the  right 
arm  struck  off  near  the  shoulder,  seems  of  the  earliest  Norman  era.  A 
cenotaph  to  the  memory  of  Mr.  Pratt,  is  inscribed,  “  To  the  memory  of 
Benjamin  Pratt,  Esq.,  of  Great  M^hitley,  Worcestershire,  who  died  at  Blaen- 
avon,  in  this  county.  May  24.  1794,  aged  52  years,  and  lies  interred  at 
Chadsley  in  Worcestershire.  A  native  of  this  country,  though  removed 
from  it  in  early  life,  he  cherished  its  remembrance  with  lively  regard,  and 
his  last  years  were  successfully  employed  in  contributing  to  its  prosperity. 
He  was  principally  concerned  in  establishing  the  iron  works  at  Blaenavon 


NEWPORT,  MONMOUTHSHIRE.  4?! 

and  its  vicinity,  and  was  a  warm  promoter  of  the  Monmouthshire  canal. 
Soundness  of  judgment,  rectitude  of  principle,  and  urbanity  of  manners, 
eminently  conspired  to  form  in  him  the  man  of  business  and  the  gentle¬ 
man.  He  died  with  that  pious  fortitude  which  manifested  in  his  last  mo¬ 
ments  that  he  was  at  peace  with  his  God.”  The  churchyard  affords  a  fine 
prospect  of  the  surrounding  country.  From  this  spot  may  be  seen  the 
wide  expanse  of  the  Bristol  Channel  and  the  Severn,  from  below  Penarth 
Point,  in  Glamorganshire,  to  near  the  New  Passage,  bounded  by  the  lofty 
hills  of  Somerset  and  Gloucestershire,  studded  with  gentlemen’s  seats  and 
villages.  The  entrances  of  the  Bristol  and  Bridgewater  river  may  be 
descried,  with  the  Steep  and  Flat  Holmes,  and  vessels  of  various  sizes  and 
descriptions,  either  under  sail  or  lying  at  anchor.  In  the  foreground  are 
the  levels  of  Wentloog  and  Caldecot,  with  the  estuary  of  the  Usk,  From 
the  w.  end  of  the  cemetery  may  be  seen  the  range  of  mountains  from  Twm- 
Barlwm  to  Pont-y-Pool,  and  another  range  extending  to  the  Blorenge,  with 
the  Little  and  Great  Skyrrid  rising  from  the  vale.  The  town  of  Caerleon 
and  the  tower  of  Christchurch  can  be  seen  only  from  the  summit  of  this 
tower.  The  neat  and  commodious  structure  of  St.  Paul’s,  in  Commercial 
Street,  was  erected  in  1837*  A  most  extensive  and  diversified  view  may 
also  be  seen  from  the  ridge  of  a  hill,  1  m.  w.  of  the  town.  The  pedestrian 
may  pass  the  farm-houses  of  Pen-y-lan  BXidi  Ty-Uwyd,  gain  the  old 
road  from  Bassalleg  to  Caerleon.  The  summit  of  the  contiguous  hill  affords 
a  view  from  Penarth,  below  Cardiff  and  the  mountains  near  Caerphilly,  to 
the  Skyrrid  fawr,  with  the  lowlands  to  the  w.  and  n.  w.,  in  which  the 
Machen  mountain  and  Twm  Barlwm  are  most  conspicious.  To  the  e.  and 
s.s.w.  the  Severn  and  Bristol  Channel  extend  below  the  Holmes,  bounded 
by  the  hills  of  Gloucester  and  Somersetshire.  To  the  Levels  of  Caldecot, 
and  Wentloog  the  land  is  beautifully  diversified,  bounded  on  the  e.n.e.  by 
the  Kemys-major  and  Pencamawr,  and  on  the  n.  by  the  hills  around  Usk. 
The  river,  with  the  towns  of  Newport  and  Caerleon,  and  the  towers  of 
Christchurch  and  St.  Woolas,  rising  above  it,  are  striking  objects.  The 
Levels  of  Caldecot  and  Wentloog,  with  the  towers  of  their  parish  churches, 
may  be  seen  distinctly.  The  equestrian  may  commence  his  excursion  by 
the  line  leading  to  Pont-y~Pool,  turning  on  the  1.  as  soon  as  he  passes  the 
first  toll-gate.  Cross  the  canal,  and  enter  on  the  road  leading  up  the  hill, 
which  continues  to  the  road  from  Newport  to  Risca,  Or  this  excursion  may 
commence  upon  the  Risca  road  from  St.  Woolas’s  church,  and  proceeding 
to  Glaescoed,  where  the  before-mentioned  line  turns  to  the  r.,  passing  along 
the  ridge  of  the  hill ;  the  path  in  the  fields  is  not  obscured  by  hedgerows. 

Six  miles  to  the  s.  e.  of  Newport,  upon  the  shores  of  the  Severn,  is  the 
village  of  Golddiff.  At  this  place  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  Priory, 
founded  by  Robert  de  Chandos  for  Benedictine  monks,  in  the  year  1113. 
At  the  dissolution  it  was  among  the  possessions  of  Eton  College,  valued  at 
144/.  Ss.  Id.  The  site  of  this  once  flourishing  monastery  is  now  occupied 
as  a  farm-house,  built  with  the  materials.  A  bam  upon  the  edge  of  the 
cliff  has  an  antiquated  doorway.  The  cliff  upon  which  these  stand  is  a 
peninsulated  rocky  hill  rising  abruptly  from  the  Severn,  to  the  height  of 
about  60  ft.  In  an  extent  of  l6  m.  this  single  rock  is  the  only  natural 
barrier  on  this  side  against  the  encroachments  of  the  Bristol  Channel ;  the 
remainder  of  this  extent  of  coast  is  guarded  from  inundations  by  artificial 
mounds  of  earth  and  stone,  called  sea  walls.  The  rock  consists  of  lime¬ 
stone  lying  horizontally,  intersected  with  silicious  crystallizations,  above  an 
immense  bed  of  mica.  The  glistening  of  this  substance  when  the  sun 
shines  upon  it  gave  it  its  present  appellation. 

H  II  4 


472 


NEWPORT,  MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

Twm  Barlwm  is  the  highest  mountain  in  this  part  of  Monmouthshire. 
It  is  a  circular  tumulus  or  artificial  mount  of  earth  and  stones,  surrounded 
with  a  deep  fosse,  which  by  some  is  conjectured  to  have  been  a  beacon,  and 
by  others  a  place  of  sepulture.  Tradition  says  that  this  spot  was  devoted  to 
bardic  assemblies.  The  extensive  prospects  from  this  spot,  are  said  to  sur¬ 
pass  the  power  of  language  to  reduce  to  any  specific  or  adequate  description. 
The  whitened  cottages  in  the  district  of  Mynyddusloyne  and  Croespenmaen 
add  to  the  beauty  of  the  russet  appearance  of  the  mountains,  which  raise 
their  summits  in  succession,  reaching  the  confines  of  Glamorgan  and  Bre¬ 
conshire.  The  ascent  is  neither  difficult  nor  tiresome.  A  bridle-road  ex¬ 
tends  nearly  the  whole  way  to  the  summit.  The  best  plan  is  to  pursue  the 
road  towards  Risca,  whence  the  bridge  becomes  an  interesting  object,  and 
where  the  traveller  will  be  directed  the  best  way  to  ascend  the  mountain. 

To  Cardiff,  there  are  two  roads  ;  the  best,  and  that  most  frequented, 
turns  to  the  1.  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  through  Commercial  Street.  At 
the  distance  of  ^  m.  upon  the  r.  is  a  large  house  (with  pointed  roofs  over 
the  windows),  called  the  Friars,  and  below,  close  to  the  road,  near  the 
toll-gate,  is  a  seat  called  Belleviie.  The  tramroad  may  hence  be  seen  ele¬ 
vated  several  yards  from  the  ground,  for  the  length  of  1  m.,  leading  to 
Pillywenlly.  Cross  the  tramroad  which  goes  through  Tredegar  Park.  Near 
the  second  milestone  is  the  river  Ebbw,  which  is  crossed  by  a  stone  bridge 
of  three  arches.  The  road  passes  through  Tredegar  Park,  Sir  Charles 
Morgan,  Bart.,  whose  vast  domain  is  said  to  be  63  m.  in  extent,  including 
83,000  acres.  The  mansion  stands  low,  but  the  entrance  to  it  is  inter¬ 
esting.  The  lodge  is  plain  but  neat.  A  thick  plantation  is  attached  on  each 
side,  the  boughs  of  which  form  a  Gothic  arch  over  the  road.  The  trees  in 
the  park  are  large  and  numerous.  The  Ebbw'  flows  through  the  valley. 
A  large  sheet  of  water  separates  the  lawn  from  the  grounds  on  the  e. 
[See  Cardiff.] 

The  OTHER  ROAD  TO  CARDIFF  passes  by  St.  Woola's  Church,  near 
which  are  some  ancient  remains,  through  Bassalleg.  1|  m.  from  Newport, 
on  the  1.  is  Maes-y-Gaer,  a  large  encampment,  supposed  to  be  Roman.  It 
occupies  the  brow  of  an  eminence  in  Tredegar  Park.  2]  m.  is  the 
picturesque  little  village  of  Bassalleg.^  which  is  entered  by  crossing  the 
Ebbw,  over  a  substantial  stone  bridge.  The  church  stands  upon  an 
eminence  over  the  river,  and  is  neatly  fitted  up.  There  is  another  encamp¬ 
ment  about  1  m.  distant,  upon  Craig-y-saesson.  On  gaining  the  summit 
of  the  hill,  near  a  Roman  road,  4  m.,  the  prospect  becomes  extensive  and 
beautiful ;  with  the  mountain  and  vale  of  Machen  on  the  r.  and  the  Went- 
loog-leml,  bounded  by  the  Bristol  Channel,  on  the  1.  Nearly  opposite 
Peii-y-llan  is  the  mansion  of  Ruperra,  the  seat  of  Charles  Morgan,  Esq. 
It  is  delightfully  situated  upon  an  eminence  crowned  with  lofty  oaks, 
overhanging  the  river  Rumney,  which  separates  the  county  of  Monmouth 
from  Glamorgan.  Further  on  the  r.  is  Michaelston-fedw  and  Cefn-Mably, 
the  residence  of  Col.  Tynte.  1|  m.  further  this  joins  the  lower  road  at  the 
village  of  St.  Mellons. 

d'o  Caerphiely  pursue  the  route  before  described,  to  Bassalleg.  At 
the  distance  of  m.,  turn  to  the  r.  over  a  small  hill  called  the  Garth,  then 
enter  a  pleasingly  sequestered  valley  intermixed  with  wildness  and  cul¬ 
tivation.  Small  farm-houses  and  whitened  cottages  are  scattered  upon  the 
sides  of  the  hills.  Plus  Machen  lies  at  the  entrance  of  the  vale,  upon  a 
gentle  acclivity  on  the  1.,  close  to  the  road.  This  mansion  was  formerly 
the  residence  of  the  Morgan  family.  It  contains  a  circular  apartment,  de¬ 
corated  with  a  rich  stuccoed  ceiling  ;  the  figure  of  Uiana  in  the  centre  is 


NEWPORT,  MONMOUTHSHIRE.  473 

surrounded  with  seats,  churches,  groups,  &c.,  in  twelve  compartments. 
A  pair  of  hand-irons  weighing  300  lb.,  said  to  have  been  employed  in 
roasting  an  ox  whole,  and  the  large  table  upon  which  it  was  served  up,  are 
still  to  be  seen.  It  is  now  occupied  as  a  farm-house.  At  the  village  of 
Machen  or  Mechain,  4  m.,  there  is  a  neat  little  church  containing  a  chapel, 
the  burial-place  of  the  Morgans.  The  public-house,  near  the  toll-gate,  is 
superior  to  those  we  generally  meet  with  in  villages.  From  this  place  there 
are  two  ways  to  Caerphilly.  That  on  the  r.  leads  up  the  vale  by  the  side  of 
the  Rumney,  passing  near  the  iron  and  tin  works  of  Messrs.  Harfords,  Da¬ 
vies,  and  Co.,  who  hold  the  premises  under  lease  from  Tredegar.  Mr.  Plar- 
fords’  residence  is  delightfully  situated  upon  a  slight  eminence,  commanding 
a  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  Cross  the  Rumney  at  Bedwas,  over  a  fine 
stone  bridge  built  by  Edwards.  The  church,  dedicated  to  Barrog  or 
St.  Baruch,  stands  upon  the  side  of  the  mountain  to  the  r.,  opposite  Caer¬ 
philly.  The  other  road  from  Machen  turns  to  the  1.,  crossing  Che  Rumney. 
Pass  the  village  of  Fraethen,  and  ascend  the  hill  opposite  Ruperra,  which 
is  beautifully  wooded.  This  route  is  shorter  and  in  better  repair,  but  not 
so  level.  The  objects  are  more  varied  and  interesting.  (See  a  description 
of  the  vales  of  Fbbw  and  Sirhowy,  under  Pont-y-Pool.) 

Two  roads  lead  from  Newport  to  Caerleon  ;  one  crosses  the  Usk  over 
the  New  Bridge,  and  continues  along  the  turnpike  road  2^  m.,  then  passes 
the  w.  end  of  Christchurch,  descends  to  the  bridge  and  over  the  Usk  to 
Caerleon,  1  m. :  this  is  the  shortest  and  most  frequented.  The  other  winds 
round  Malpas  Pil,  continues  parallel  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Usk,  and 
enters  the  n.  w.  gate  of  Caerleon.  By  this  road  the  distance  is  4^  m.  The 
outset  is  not  interesting,  but  arriving  at  Christchurch  or  Eglwys-y-Drindod, 
a  prospect  grandly  extensive  and  delightful,  suddenly  appears.  From  the 
foreground  descends  a  succession  of  bold  knoUs  or  gentle  swells  covered 
with  plantations.  Beyond  appears  the  majestic  Severn  and  its  barks.  Op¬ 
posite,  the  diversified  shores  of  Somersetshire  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of 
the  intervening  grandeur.  To  the  e.,  Gloucestershire  and  the  neighbouring 
counties  exhibit  a  vast  variety  of  hills,  vales,  lawns,  woods,  hamlets,  and 
villas.  Turning  from  this  gay  assemblage,  the  admirer  of  natural  landscape 
may  descend  among  the  adjoining  plantations  of  Sir  Robert  Salusbury  and 
Mr.  Philips,  to  Caldecot  Level,  a  l^rge  tract  of  land  rescued  from  the  sea  by 
human  power.  Sea  walls  have  been  here  erected  at  a  considerable  expense, 
to  keep  oflP  the  ocean  at  high  tides  and  in  stormy  weather  from  inun¬ 
dating  the  spacious  marshes  in  this  district.  Some  of  these  barriers  are  built 
to  the  height  of  12  or  14  ft.,  falling  back  from  the  sea  by  a  gradual  slope  ; 
each  row  of  stone-facing  recedes  by  a  set-off  of  2  in.  in  every  foot,  the 
masonry  being  flanked  by  a  large  embankment  of  earth.  In  other  parts 
they  are  neither  so  high  nor  so  strong  as  the  level  of  Wentloog  :  they 
are  constructed  of  earth  only.  These  walls  extend  from  the  village  of 
Caldecot,  almost  the  whole  way  to  Gold  Cliff ;  those  of  Wentloog  amount 
to  4986  perches.  These  expensive  works  are  kept  in  repair  by  assessed 
levies  on  the  proprietors  of  the  adjoining  estates.  The  land  has  been 
cut  into  parallel  ditches.  Near  the  w.  extremity  of  this  plain,  rises  the 
peninsulated  promontory  of  Gold  Cliff.  Returning  to  Christchurch,  an 
ordinary  building,  chiefly  Gothic,  with  a  Saxon  arch,  attracts  some  notice. 
In  the  inside  a  Gothic  screen  of  exquisite  workmanship  has  separated  the 
chancel  from  the  nave,  but  is  shamefully  injured.  A  curious  sepulchral 
monument  here  is  deemed  miraculous  on  the  eve  of  the  Ascension,  in  curing 
sick  children.  Mr.  Donovan  deciphers  the  inscription  round  its  edges  as 
follows  :  —  Hie  jacent  Johannes  Colmer  et  Isabella  uxor  ejus  qui  obierunt 


474  NEWPORT,  MONMOUTHSHIRE. 

anno  domini  m.ccclxxvi.  quorum  animabus  propicietur  Deus.  Amen.”  Ac¬ 
cording  to  Mr.  Williams,  it  runs  —  Hie  jacent  Johannes  Colmar  et  Isabella 
uxur  ejus,  qui  obierunt  anno  domini  1376,  quum  aiabus  ppicietur  deus 
amen.”  Mr.  Coxe  reads  instead  of  Isabella”  Elizabetha,  and  instead  of 
propicietur,”  he  has  written  miseretur.”  The  preceding  evening,” 
says  he,  being  the  evening  of  Trinity  Thursday,  we  were  unexpectedly 
present  at  the  visitation  of  a  large  party  of  the  poor  infatuated  people  to 
this  very  tombstone.  A  group  had  assembled  in  the  chancel.  A  young 
man,  of  very  creditable  appearance,  was  stretched  out  upon  the  bare  pave¬ 
ment,  with  his  nightcap  on,  shivering  with  cold,  his  hands  uplifted, 
uttering  a  prayer  for  the  cure  of  some  disorder  under  which  he  laboured. 
During  this  religious  farce,  his  friends  formed  a  circle  round  him  ;  some 
standing,  some  sitting,  some  kneeling ;  but  all  were  equally  intent  in 
watching  the  countenance  and  emotions  of  the  patient  in  expectation  of  the 
progressive  advancement  of  the  miracle  to  be  wrought  in  consequence  of 
this  superstitious  ceremony.”  The  public-house  near  the  church  was  the 
ancient  manse.  A  deep  descent  leads  to  the  antiquated  town  of  Caerleon. 
By  the  lower  road  to  Caerleon  is  Malpas  Church,  which,  though  a 
small  building,  appears  to  be  a  curious  specimen  of  the  Saxon  or  Anglo- 
Norman  architecture.  It  lies  l-|-m.  from  Newport.  It  is  used  at  present 
for  parochial  worship.  This  Church  is  formed  of  unhewn  stone,  is  of  an 
oblong  shape,  and  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel,  but  has  neither  aisle  nor 
steeple.  The  arch  of  the  s.  window,  once  a  doorway,  is  richly  decorated 
and  embossed  with  roses,  in  a  style  similar  to  the  Etruscan.  The  columns 
are  massive,  bearing  with  varied  capitals. 

Mr.  Coxe  made  an  excursion  from  Newport,  in  which  he  passed,  as 
before  described,  to  Cardiff,  but  at  the  half-way  house  between  Newport 
and  Cardiff,  he  turned  to  the  r.,  and  passing  the  church  of  Michaelston^ 
fedw,  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice,  reached  the  frontiers.  Monmouth  is 
separated  from  Glamorgan  by  the  Rumney,  over  which  a  stone  bridge  leads 
to  Cefn  Mabley.  Upon  the  e.  bank  is  an  old  cottage  called  Begwn,  said 
to  have  been  inhabited  by  the  family  of  Kemeys  before  they  removed  to 
Cefn  Mabley.  Near  it  is  a  mill.  Returning  by  Michaelston-fedw  to  the 
half-way  house,  he  proceeded  to  St.  Mellon  s,  where  the  upper  and  lower 
roads  from  Newport  to  Cardiff  unite.  The  Church  is  a  singular  but 
picturesque  edifice,  built  with  ragstone  and  plastered.  The  vaulted 
ceiling  is  not  unworthy  of  notice,  particularly  at  the  e.  extremity  of  the 
chapel,  where  it  is  ornamented  with  curiously  carved  wood.  Three  m. 
from  St.  Mellon’s,  close  to  the  high  road,  is  Rumney  or  Rhymni  Church,  an 
edifice  not  less  than  180  ft.  from  the  tower  to  the  end  of  the  chancel.  The 
tower  is  decorated  with  battlements  and  Gothic  pinnacles.  The  windows 
exhibit  remains  of  painted  glass.  Beyond  the  junction  of  the  upper  and 
lower  road  from  Newport  to  Cardiff,  and  near  Pen-y-PU,  is  Cue  Castell,  a 
small  encampment  of  irregular  figure,  between  an  oval  and  a  polygon.  It 
is  situated  upon  an  abrupt  eminence  near  a  small  stream.  Its  length  is 
scarcely  50  yards,  its  greatest  breadth  40.  The  entrenchments  are  deep  ; 
the  entrance  is  on  the  s.  e.  Another  encampment  overhangs  the  steep 
banks  of  the  Rumney,  i  m.  above  the  bridge,  and  about  300  yards  from 
the  turnpike.  Its  shape  is  almost  like  that  of  a  D.  Connected  with  the 
w.  side  is  a  triangular  outwork.  From  Rumney  bridge,  Mr.  Coxe  re¬ 
turned  to  St.  Mellon’s,  and  pursued  his  journey  along  the  lower  or  new 
turnpike-road  from  Newport  to  Cardiff.  This  road  advances  along  the  side 
of  the  wooded  eminences  which  skirt  the  edge  of  W entloog  Level,  and  over¬ 
looks  the  whole  of  that  fertile  tract  rescued  from  the  sea.  This  plain  is 


475 


NEWPORT,  PEMBROKESHIRE. 


divided  into  pastures,  intersected  with  drains,  and  dotted  with  a  few  white 
cottages,  among  which  rise  the  towers  of  St.  Bride’s,  Marshfield,  and  Pe- 
terstone  churches ;  the  Bristol  channel  beyond  looks  like  a  continuation  of 
the  surface.  Pass  through  Castleton^  which  takes  its  name  from  an  ancient 
castle  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  upon  which  the  encampment  of  Park 

Newydd,  - Collins,  Esq.,  is  situated.  The  only  remains  are  a  barrow 

in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Phillips,  supposed  to  he  the  site  of  the  citadel,  and 
a  stone  barn,  once  a  chapel.  Continue  under  the  walls  of  Gwern-y-Clepoiy 
where,  in  the  midst  of  thickets,  is  Tre  Deg  Erw,  an  old  mansion  once  the 
residence  of  Ifor  Hael,  second  son  of  Llywellyn  ap  Ifor.  The  estate  de¬ 
volved  to  the  family  of  Tredegar.  Continue  on  the  high  road  to  Tredegar 
House,  the  mansion  of  Sir  C.  Morgan,  Bart.,  the  Sir  M^atkin  of  S.  Wales. 
The  grounds  are  extensive  and  diversified,  richly  covered  with  groves  of 
oak  and  Spanish  chestnuts,  remarkable  for  their  age,  size,  and  beauty,  tra¬ 
versed  by  the  torrent  Ebbw.  Cross  a  wooden  bridge  over  this  stream. 
Hence  Mr.  Coxe  returned  to  Newport. 


To  Caerleon,  3  miles.  Coxe;  Barber. 

Cardiff,  12  miles.  Skrine;  Evans;  Donovan; 
Man{)y. 

Caerphilly,  12  miles.  Warner, 
and  from  Pont-y.Pool  and  Usk,  32  miles  ;  fsee 
these  places]  then  from  Newport  to  Caer¬ 
philly,  12  miles.  Wyndham. 


To  Chepstow,  16  miles. 
Abergavenny,  18  miles. 
Bristol,  26  miles.  Cabin,  4s. 
New  Passage,  15  miles. 
Pont-y-  Pool,  9  miles. 

Usk,  11  miles. 


NEWPORT,  PEMBROKESHIRE. 


From  Fishguard, 6im.  Barber;  Evans ;  Wyndham.  |  From  Cilgerran,  8  m.  Malkin  ;  Skrine  ;  Fenton. 

NEWPORT,  or  Tref  Draeth,  a  sea-port,  market  town,  and  parish  in 
the  hundred  of  Cemmaes,  Pembrokeshire,  appears  to  have  contained  several 
streets,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles,  the  names  of  which  indi¬ 
cate  that  it  has  been  a  considerable  place.  It  is  now  irregularly  formed, 
neither  lighted  nor  paved,  and  presents  a  mere  skeleton  of  its  former 
importance.  At  a  distance  its  appearance  is  more  favourable;  interspersed 
with  trees,  the  venerable  ruins  of  its  castle,  and  an  ancient  looking  church, 
form  an  aggregate  of  some  interest.  This  place  originated  in  some 
descendants  of  Martin  de  Tours,  first  lord  of  Cemmaes,  who  erected  this 
territory  into  a  lordship-marcher,  and  whose  son  William  built  a  castle 
here,  which  he  made  the  head  of  his  barony,  and  invested  it  with  many 
privileges.  About  the  beginning  of  the  l6th  century,  Newport  was  very 
populous,  and  carried  on  an  extensive  wmollen  manufactory ;  but  owing 
to  a  great  mortality  which  dealt  out  desolation,  it  decayed,  and  even  its 
market  was  discontinued.  On  account  of  its  salubrity,  Fishguard  became 
a  refuge  from  the  contagion;  and  this  consideration,  in  conjunction  with 
other  advantages,  caused  that  place  to  preserve  a  superiority.  The  harbour 
of  Newport  is  small;  a  bar  of  sand,  extending  1  m.,  is  navigable  only  at 
high  water.  This  port  is  subject  to  the  custom-house  of  Cardigan.  The 
principal  exports  are  corn,  butter,  and  the  produce  of  the  neighbouring 
slate  quarries  ;  the  chief  imports  are  coal,  culm,  and  limestone.  A  herring- 
fishery  exists  here,  but  unproductive  of  much  benefit.  A  salmon  fishery  on 
the  Nevern  is  more  lucrative.  In  1831, the  population  of  New^port  amounted 
to  1738.  Fairs  are  held  here  on  July  27th,  and  October  l6th.  The 
Market,  on  Fridays,  has  revived  ;  the  town  of  late  has  reassumed  an 
increasing  tratle  ;  and  chasms  in  the  streets  are  now  occupied  with  buildings. 
The  Castle,  which  appears  to  have  combined  strength  with  magnificence. 


476  NEWPORT,  PEMBROKESHIRE. 

stands  upon  a  knoll  above  the  town,  at  the  extremity  of  the  principal 
street.  The  grand  entrance  was  by  a  gateway  between  two  large  bastions 
facing  the  n.,  one  of  which  fell  down  some  years  since  ;  within  this  was 
another  gate  having  a  portcullis.  The  area  of  the  castle,  nearly  circular, 
was  about  50  paces  in  diameter,  and  encompassed  with  a  deep  moat.  At 
the  w.  end  are  the  remains  of  a  magnificent  bastion,  and  two  other  large 
ones  on  the  s.  and  s.  e.  The  principal  rooms  probably  occupied  the  s.  e. 
portion  of  the  buildings.  A  subterranean  passage  between  the  town  and  the 
dungeons  of  this  fortress  was  some  years  since  discovered.  Caym  Englyn 
rises  boldly  behind  it,  and  the  Bay,  bounded  by  the  headlands  of  Dinas 
and  Ceibwr,  opens  beautifully  in  front.  The  Church  is  a  cruciform 
structure,  consisting  of  a  nave,  chancel,  and  cross  aisles,  roofed  with  ancient 
oak.  The  nave  is  separated  from  the  chancel  and  side  aisles  by  plain 
pointed  arches.  In  the  chancel,  without  the  communion  rails,  in  the  s. 
wall,  are  two  plain  stone  canopies,  one  covering  a  grave-stone  ;  the  other 
is  vacant.  Oh  the  s.  side  of  the  belfry  there  is  an  elegant  niche,  and  on 
the  w.  side  of  the  entrance-porch  the  ruins  of  a  detached  building,  said 
to  have  been  the  record-office  of  the  town.  At  the  end  of  the  nave  issuing 
from  the  roof  on  the  outside  is  a  richly  wrought  spire  containing  a  bell. 
The  living  is  a  discharged  rectory,  and  the  structure  dedicated  to  St.  Mary. 

To  Fishguard  Mr.  Malkin  pursued  the  horse-path  leading  over  the  w. 
side  of  the  mountain,  to  the  desolate  and  poor  village  of  Llanuchllwydog .  This 
is  a  tedious  route  ;  but  the  descent  to  Picton  bridge  unfolds  some  very 
picturesque  scenery  where  it  is  least  anticipated. 

The  high  road  to  Fishguard  lies  near  the  sea,  leaving  by  the  way  on 
the  r.  Eglwys  Dinas,  2  m.  and  Capel  Llanfihangel,  3  m.  A  mile  further 
cross  the  Gwayn,  which  flows  into  the  sea  on  the  1. 

To  Fishguard  Mr.  Fenton  made  the  following  circuitous  route.  He 
progressed  3  m.  with  Cam  Englyn  on  the  1.,  and  the  sea  on  the  r.,  here  the 
bold  promontory  of  Dinas  and  its  correspondent  headland  of  Ceibwr  straiten 
into  the  Bay  of  Newport.  He  then  advanced  to  a  singular  cluster  of 
cistveini,  which  he  had  prepared  to  explore.  The  group  consisted  of  five, 
ranged  round  a  prostrate  cromlech.  Having  removed,”  says  he,  ‘‘  the  lid 
stones  of  these  cists,  and  digging  down  about  a  foot,  through  fine  mould, 

I  came  to  charcoal,  and  soon  after  discovered  urns  of  the  rudest  pottery, 
some  particles  of  bones,  and  a  quantity  of  black  sea  pebbles.  I  opened  them 
all,  and,  with  a  very  trifling  variation  of  their  contents,  found  them  of  the 
same  character.”  The  conclusion  resulting  from  Mr.  Fenton’s  overthrow 
of  cistveini  and  cromlechau  is  that  the  former  are  decidedly  sepulchral  ;  but, 
respecting  the  latter,  he  does  not  hazard  a  conjecture.  The  farm  near  this 
place  is  called  the  Forest,  which  seems  to  indicate  that  the  tract  w^as  once 
thickly  wooded.  The  Peninsula  of  Dinas  forms  one  large  farm,  and  is 
separated  from  the  continent  by  a  narrow  isthmus,  which  appears  to  have 
been  traversed  by  a  slight  agger  of  earth.  The  extreme  cape  or  ness, 
which  presents  its  bold  front  to  the  ocean,  is  a  cliff  of  immense  altitude  ; 
the  ground  of  the  whole  peninsula  descending  from  it  in  rather  an  inclined 
plane.  The  soil  produces  excellent  crops  of  corn,  the  vegetation  is  rapid, 
and  the  harvest  early.  The  summit  of  Cam  Englyn  affords  a  charming 
prospect  of  the  bays  of  Newport  and  Fishguard,  the  Vale  of  Nevern 
situated  on  one  side,  and  that  of  Gwayn  on  the  other.  It  bears  indications  of 
early  habitation  and  enclosure.  George  Owen  says,  The  high  sharpe 
rocke  over  Newport,  called  Cam  Englyn,  supposed  by  the  vulgar  to  take 
its  appellative  from  a  Cawr  or  giant  of  that  name,  is  a  very  steepe  and 
stony  mountaine,  having  the  toppe  thereof  sharp,  and  all  rockes  shewing 


NEWPORT,  PEMBROKESHIRE.  477 

from  the  e.  and  by  n.  like  the  upper  part  of  the  capital  Greek  omega  (^I). 
The  pasture  of  this  mountaine  was  given  in  common  by  Nicholaus  filius 
Martini,  then  lord  of  Kernes,  to  the  burgesses  of  his  town  of  Newport, 
which  they  enjoy  to  this  day,  with  divers  other  freedomes  and  liberties  to 
them  granted  by  divers  charters  yet  extant  and  faire,  sealed  with  his  scale 
of  the  armes  of  the  saide  lordshipp  of  Kemes,  but  all  of  that  antiquity 
that  they  are  sans  date.  This  mountaine  is  several  miles  in  circuit,  and 
surmounteth  all  other  for  good  sheep  pasture,  both  for  fatting  and 
soundness,  and  especially  commodiouse  in  this,  that  noe  snowe  stayeth  on 
it,  by  reason  of  the  neernes  of  the  sea,  and  that  it  is  watered  with  fine 
and  cleare  springes.  Frenny-fawr ,  the  first  and  most  easterly  point  of  the 
long  Presselly  line,  and  this  the  last  and  most  w..  Cam  Englyn,  stand  as 
captaine  and  lieutenant,  the  one  leading  the  vannegarde,  the  other  following 
the  rere-warde,  among  whom  Cwm  Cerwyn,  being  neere  middway  between 
them,  may  well,  for  his  high  stature  overlooking  the  rest,  clay  me  the  place 
of  standard-bearer.”  Descend  by  Llystyn,  now  a  farm-house,  once  the 
respectable  mansion  of  Rees  Llywelyn  ap  Owain,  one  of  the  four  sons  of 
Llywelyn  ap  Ovv^ain.  Rees  had  Llystin  ;  Evan,  Pentre  Evan  ;  Phillip, 
Panteg  in  Welfrey  ;  and  Owain  possessed  Argoed.  Cross  a  murmuring 
brook,  and  pass  Trewern-Waelod,  a  mansion  of  a  descendant  of  Gwyn- 
fardd  ;  afterwards  it  became  the  property  of  Edward  Warren  Jones,  Esq. 
In  this  route  almost  every  mile  produces  an  ancient  mansion  degradingly 
altered,  deserted,  or  in  ruins  ;  and,  like  its  former  inhabitants,  only  remem¬ 
bered  by  name  ;  these,  within  the  1 8th  century,  formed  a  rendezvous  of 
beauty,  wit,  and  festivity.  Pallida  mors  equo  pulsat  pede.” 

Pentre  Evan  is  next  approached,  now  a  farm-house  :  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  VII.,  Sir  James  ap  Owain  occupied  it  in  the  Cambrian  style  of 
baronial  magnificence.  Nearer  the  mountain  stands  a  Cromlech,  once  consi¬ 
dered  the  largest  in  Wales  (see  p.479)*  The  incumbent  stone  rests  upon  two 
of  columnar  form,  tapering  to  a  point,  with  an  intermediate  one,  which  does 
not  quite  reach  the  s.  end.  The  most  elevated  supporter  is  above  8  ft.  high, 
the  lowest  above  7*  The  top  stone  is  of  immense  size,  and  much  thicker  at 
one  extremity  than  the  other.  It  is  18  ft.  long,  9  broad,  and  3  deep  at  the 
heavier  end.  The  temples  of  the  Druids  were  composed  of  a  circle  of 
stones,  called  kerrig  or  krug,  signifying  a  heap  of  stones.  It  is  highly 
probable,”  says  Mr.  Lewis  (^Cymm.  Trans,  hi.  98*)^  that  from  this  the 
Teutonic  nations  took  their  kirk,  softened  by  the  English  into  church.” 

Leaving  this  Druidic  memorial,  turn  to  the  1.,  and  descending  towards  the 
Nevern,  pass  Argoed,  to  the  pretty  village  of  Felindre  Marshog,  commonly 
called  College ;  it  is  so  named  from  an  ancient  structure,  probably  erected  for 
some  collegiate  purpose  in  the  17th  century,  according  to  an  inscription  on  the 
front  :  it  was  subsequently  converted  into  the  village  inn.  The  great  road 
from  Fishguard  to  Cardigan  passes  by  this  edifice,  and  a  little  beyond  is  a 
tedious  and  laborious  ascent.  To  avoid  this.  Archbp.  Baldwin  and  Giral- 
dus  pursued  a  road  up  the  vale  by  a  bridge  over  the  Duad,  called  Pont-y- 
Baldwyn,  probably  from  this  circumstance.  Above  College  stands  Hen-llys, 
the  manor-house  of  the  lords  of  Cemmaes  for  some  centuries  after  the  disuse 
of  Newport  Castle.  A  modern  farm-house  now  occupies  its  site.  Ad¬ 
joining  Hen-llys  is  Cwmgloyne,  the  only  mansion  in  this  neighbourhood 
which  has  not  been  metamorphosed  into  a  farm-house,  and  stripped  of  its 
surrounding  woods.  Thomas  Lloyd,  Esq.,  a  profound  antiquary,  was  a 
proprietor  of  this  place,  in  whom  an  ancient  family  became  extinct ;  he 
dying  a  bachelor,  left  his  estate  by  will  to  Maurice  Williams,  Esq.  Re¬ 
gaining  the  vale,  pursue  the  road  over  Pont-y-Baldwyn  to  the  ruin  of 


478  NEWPORT,  PEMBROKESHIRE. 

Wenallt.  Higher  up  the  vale,  which  here  contracts  and  assumes  a  roman¬ 
tic  appearance,  on  the  brow  of  a  hill  which  overlooks  the  beauties  below,  is 
another  mansion,  called  Pen-y-hen-glog,  which  once  ranked  among  the 
first  structures  of  the  age.  Among  the  former  possessors  of  this  house 
was  Howel  Gawr.  Hence  ascend  Moel  Eryr,  the  highest  elevation  except 
Cwm  Cerwyn  in  the  whole  Precelly  range.  Its  summit  is  formed  into 
a  perfect  cone  by  a  stupendous  carnedd.  To  the  1.  of  this  mountain, 
taking  an  oblique  direction  along  the  s.  side,  portions  of  the  old  Roman 
road  running  westward  may  he  distinctly  traced  in  various  states,  from 
the  first  process  of  an  open  fosse  to  the  perfectly  raised  pavement.  Its 
course  e.  from  Bwlchgwynt^  through  a  deep  turbary,  upon  the  fiat  above 
in  which  it  is  buried,  is  defined  by  upright  stones.  From  this  height  the 
whole  country  to  St.  David’s  may  be  seen.  The  ancient  Loventium 
lies  to  the  e.  and  Menapia  to  the  w.  This  ancient  road  has  been  erro¬ 
neously  attributed  to  the  Flemings.  From  Moel  Eryr  descend  by  Cilwyn, 
a  chapel  of  ease  to  the  extensive  parish  of  Nevern  ;  it  is  a  very  ancient 
structure.  In  this  neighbourhood  is  the  source  of  the  Gwayn,  rising 
out  of  Precelly  hill  in  the  n.  side  of  Wind  Port.  Descend  into  the  vale, 
where  this  stream,  for  a  short  distance,  after  a  headlong  course  down  the 
falls  of  Gellifawr,  flows  sluggishly  through  moory  meadow  land,  hut  soon 
assumes  the  character  which  it  maintains  of  a  clear  rapid  mountain  river.  In 
this  vale  the  angler  and  artist  may  find  ample  employ ;  the  river  abounds 
with  salmon,  sewin,  and  trout;  and  the  landscape  perpetually  varies  into 
subjects  well  adapted  to  the  pencil.  On  the  borders  of  this  vale  is  Pont 
faen,  an  ancient  mansion  which  belongs  to  John  Philipps  Laugharne,  Esq. 
Cilycithed  was  the  ancient  residence  of  David  Ddu,  who  settled  here  soon 
after  the  Norman  usurpation.  This  estate  was  the  inheritance  of  the  late 
Sir  William  Hamilton,  by  his  first  lady  Miss  Barlow,  and  afterwards  be¬ 
came  the  property  of  his  nephew,  the  Hon.  Robert  Greville.  MormllOy  not 
far  distant,  is  memorable  as  the  spot  where  the  Welsh  mountaineers  made  a 
firm  stand  against  the  Norman  power  ;  it  subsequently  merged  into  the  vast 
estate  of  Orielton.  Gelligelynen  once  was  the  reception  of  the  female  branch 
of  the  houses  of  Picton  and  Wiston,  but  merged  by  marriage  into  Mor- 
ville.  Cronllwyn  was  a  favourite  spot  of  Sir  William  Martin.  Opposite 
on  the  other  side  the  river,  occurs  Court,  a  handsome  modern  mansion  be¬ 
longing  to  John  Gwynn,  Esq.  Adjoining  is  the  church  of  Llanllawer, 
where  is  a  sainted  well,  abundantly  supplied  with  the  purest  water.  Llan- 
uchllwydog  lies  a  little  higher  up  on  the  banks  of  the  Gwayn  ;  the  situation  is 
most  beautifully  retired  and  picturesque.  It  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  Clydawg,  a  regulus  of  the  country,  whose  grave  is  defined  by  tw’^o  up¬ 
right  stones  still  visible  in  the  cemetery.  Both  these  churches  enrich  the 
rectory  of  Dinas.  Llanllawer  mountain  terminates  in  a  rocky  nipple, 
called  the  Maiden’s  Breast,  though  it  seems  not  to  resemble  that  uncon¬ 
taminated  hemisphere,  except  in  mere  rotundity.  Upon  one  side  are  pro¬ 
fusely  scattered  several  Druidic  relics,  such  as  Meini-hirion,  sites  of 
primeval  population,  and  carneddau.  Enter  the  parish  of  Fishguard. 

On  the  road  to  Cardigan,  at  the  distance  of  2  m.,  occurs  the  village  of 
Nevern.  The  old  cross  mentioned  by  Camden  remains  in  the  s.  side  of 
the  churchyard.  It  consists  of  a  single  stone  2  ft.  broad,  18  deep,  and 
13  high,  and  is  neatly  carved  on  each  side,  with  knot-work  of  va¬ 
rious  patterns.  The  summit  is  circular,  charged  with  a  cross ;  below  are 
other  crosses,  and  about  the  centre  is  an  inscription.  On  the  n.  side  of 
the  cemetery  was  another  irregularly  shaped  stone,  2  yards  high,  with  this 
inscription  —  vitatiani  emeriti,  but  is  now  removed.  The  inside  of  the 


NEWPORT,  PEMBROKESHIRE.  479 

church  is  not  paved,  and  frequent  interments  have  elevated  the  interior 
ground  7  or  8  ft.  higher  than  the  area  without. 

This  parish  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  little 
river  of  the  same  name,  which  rises  near  the  mountain  Vrenni  Vawr.  Mr. 
Hansard  says,  ^‘'the  stream  is  well  stocked.”  This  neighbourhood  abounds 
with  Druidic  antiquities.  Sir  Richard  Hoare  thought  the  cromlech,  or 
temple,  at  Pentre  Evan,  in  Nevern,  surpassed  in  size  and  height  any  he  had 
seen  in  Wales  or  England,  Stonehenge  and  Abury  excepted.  It  is  encircled 
by  rude  stones  150  ft.  in  circumference.  Mr.  Malkin,  however,  ascertained 
that  a  similar  structure  at  Dyfryn  House,  on  the  road  from  Cow  bridge  to 
Cardiff  exceeds  this  in  dimension.  Upon  a  hill  above  the  church  is  the 
site  of  Castrum  de  Llanhefer,  mentioned  by  Giraldus.  KXLlech-y  drihedd 
on  the  sea-coast  between  Nevern  and  Cardigan,  is  a  fine  cromlech,  having  a 
furrow  in  the  incumbent  stone.  Behind  the  beautiful  little  river  Nevern 
rises  the  n.  w.  extremity  of  the  Precelly  mountains.  This  high  table  land 
takes  a  direction  from  n.e.  to  s.  w.,  commencing  near  CapelBettws  in  Carmar¬ 
thenshire,  and  terminates  at  Dinas  on  the  sea-coast.  The  ridge  of  this  ele¬ 
vation  is  broken  into  several  distinct  mountains,  opposite  to  those  of  Precelly. 
The  highest  peak  is  Cwni  Cerwyn,  which  forms  a  landmark  at  sea.  On  the 
summit  a  prodigious  extent  of  prospect  is  now  unfolded  to  view.  In  front 
a  wild  hilly  region,  not  undiversified  by  cultivation,  stretches  nearly  to  the 
N.  confines  of  S.  W ales,  where  the  pale  summit  of  Plinlimmon,  in  Mont¬ 
gomeryshire,  is  just  distinguishable  from  the  ethereal  blue.  Beyond 
a  vast  expanse  of  sea  to  the  n.  appears  Bardsey  Island,  and  the  neighbour¬ 
ing  shores  of  Caernarvonshire.  Over  the  miserable  country  about  Fish¬ 
guard  and  St.  David’s,  it  is  said  that,  in  a  clear  atmosphere,  the  mountains 
of  Ireland  may  be  perceived.  On  taking  a  retrospect,  the  whole  of  the 
sterile  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Milford  Haven  appears  in  one  com¬ 
prehensive,  distant  display.  A  road  passes  over  this  ridge  called  the  Flemish 
Way,  but  evidently  the  remains  of  a  Roman  causeway,  which  extended  from 
Maridunum  to  Menapia.  Heaps  of  disintegrated  rock  lie  scattered  about 
the  summits  and  sides,  much  like  those  of  the  Snowdonian  chain.  Pre¬ 
celly  abounds  with  peat,  the  preparation  of  which  furnishes  employment  to 
the  poor.  Numerous  flocks  in  this  district  are  attended  by  shepherds,  who 
shelter  and  sleep  in  the  adjacent  vales.  The  principal  part  of  the  fleecy 
produce  is  sent  in  a  raw  state  out  of  that  very  county  where  the  Flemings 
introduced  the  woollen  manufacture,  and  to  whom  we  owe  this  staple  trade  ! 
Inoculation  for  the  smallpox  is  said  to  have  been  practised  here  from  time 
immemorial,  and  is  performed  much  in  the  ordinary  manner. 

The  village  of  Felindre  is  formed  chiefly  of  mud  cottages,  roofed  with 
thatch.  A  few  miles  out  of  the  road  to  the  1.  are  the  ruins  of  St.  Dog- 
mael’s  Priory.  A  noble  stone  bridge  of  7  arches  announces  the  pleasantly 
situated  sea-port,  borough,  and  market  town  of  Cardigan. 

From  Newport,  Mr.  Skrine  had  the  pleasure  of  quitting  a  dreary  coast  to 
pursue  an  excellent  newly  constructed  road  to  the  1.  of  the  heights  of  Pre¬ 
celly;  thence  he  soon  attained  the  sylvan  well-cultivated  district  surround¬ 
ing  Haverfordwest.  Taking  an  inland  direction,  he  pursued  the  main  road 
through  the  heart  of  Pembrokeshire,  passing  through  the  irregular  town  of 
Narberth,  happily  graced  with  the  picturesque  ruins  of  its  castle.  At  the 
straggling  town  of  St.  Clares,  he  re-entered  the  county  of  Carmarthen,  and 
soon  reached  its  capital,  beautifully  situated  on  the  n.  w.  bank  of  the  Towy, 
which  commands  some  fine  prospects,  and  imparts  to  the  town  a  striking 
and  picturesque  appearance. 

To  Cardigan,  10  miles.  Wyndham  :  Skrine;  Bar-  I  To  Fishguard,  6^  miles.  Malkin  ;  Fenton, 
her;  Evans.  '  [  Newcastle  in  Einlyn,  17  miles. 


480 


NEW  PASSAGE. 


From  Striguil  Castle.  Wyndham. 

Caldecot  Castle,  2  miles.  Barber. 

The  Kev.  W.  Coxe  commences  his  tour  in 
Monmouthshire,  visits  Caldecot  Castle, 
and  returns. 


From  Bristol,  lOf  miles.  Donovan  ;  Evans  ; 
Mr.  Warner  began  both  his  first  and  se. 

cond  walks  here. 

Chepstow,  5  miles.  Skrine. 

Black  Rock  Inn,  2f. 


The  ferry  at  the  NEW  PASSAGE  is  the  principal  entrance  into  Mon¬ 
mouthshire,  from  the  s.  w.  counties.  The  breadth  of  the  water  from  this 
place  to  the  Bristol  coast  at  high  water  is  3^  m. 

The  New  Passage  Inn  is  upon  the  s.  or  Gloucestershire  side  of  the 
Severn.  A  most  enchanting  landscape  is  presented  from  the  windows  of 
this  inn,  which  opens  towards  the  river,  disclosing  the  beautiful  and  diver¬ 
sified  shores  of  Monmouthshire,  with  part  of  Gloucestershire.  Hills  and 
mountains  compose  the  background.  From  a  walk  extending  in  front  of 
the  house  see  Kingroad,  Portshead  Point,  and  the  Isle  of  Denny.  The 
times  when  the  great  boat  departs  from  the  Bristol  coast  is  nearly  on  the 
slack  of  the  flux  and  reflux  of  the  tide.  As  the  course  of  the  river  stretches 
nearly  from  e.  to  w.,  while  the  tide  is  on  the  flood  an  e.  wind  is  most 
favourable,  while  on  the  ebb  a  w.  wind.  But  should  the  wind  be  from  the 
N.  or  s.  it  will  be  necessary  for  the  traveller  to  be  at  the  Passage  an  hour 
previous  to  those  times.  The  state  of  the  tides  may  always  be  known  by 
inquiry  at  Bristol,  where  it  is  nearly  half  an  hour  later.  The  rates  are, 
four-wheeled  carriages,  12^.  two  wheeled,  6^.  a  man  and  horse,  l5.  6d.,  a 
horse  alone,  1.?.,  a  foot  passenger,  Qd.  Small  boats,  capable  of  carrying  a 
private  party,  are  always  ready,  at  the  rate  of  5s.  besides  Qd.  for  each  per¬ 
son.  If  the  traveller  be  necessitated  to  pass  over  this  ferry  at  low  water, 
he  will  have  to  disembark  at  a  short  distance  from  the  usual  landing-place, 
and  be  subjected  to  a  very  slippery  walk  over  a  surface  of  rock  covered  with 
Confervas,  Fuci,  and  other  marine  plants.  There  are  two  shelving  rocks 
connected  with  the  main  land.  The  contiguous  inn  on  the  n.  side  of  the 
river,  is  hence  called  the  Black  Rock  Inn,  but  more  properly  St.  Andrew's. 
This,  as  well  as  the  Aust  or  Old  Passage  ferry,  is  a  monopoly,  and,  like 
all  monopolies,  hostile  to  the  interest  of  the  public.  The  boatmen  are,  of 
course,  rude  in  their  manners,  indifferent  to  the  accommodation  of  the  pas¬ 
sengers,  and  practised  in  the  arts  of  extortion.  The  shore  of  Monmouth¬ 
shire  rises  from  the  edge  of  the  water  in  gentle  acclivities,  richly  wooded, 
and  interspersed  with  fields  of  corn  and  pasture  ;  beyond  are  extensive  ridges 
of  hills,  which  commence  on  the  r.  with  the  Windcliff,  and  are  succeeded  in  * 
a  w.  direction  by  the  wooded  eminences  above  Piercefield,  the  Devaudon, 
and  the  Pencamawr  above  Llanfair,  terminating  at  Christchurch,  1  m.  above 
Caerleon. 

About  i  m.  from  the  Monmouthshire  shore  is  an  islet,  called  Cher- 
riston  Rock,  on  which  Roman  coins  have  been  found.  The  boatman 
can  pass  close  to  this  craggy  eminence,  if  desired,  and  in  the  humour  to  be 
civil.  The  stone  is  used  for  building.  This  ferry  is  memorable  for  the 
escape  of  Charles  I.,  who  being  pursued  by  the  republican  soldiers,  crossed 
the  Severn  to  Chisell  Pill,  on  the  Gloucestershire  side. 

From  the  New  Passage  Inn  may  be  visited  Sudbrook  Encampment,  at  the 
distance  of  1  m.  on  the  shore  to  the  w.,  crowning  the  brow  of  an  eminence 
which  rises  in  an  abrupt  cliff  from  Caldecot  Level.  This  remnant  of 
ancient  dissension,  consisting  of  three  ramparts  and  two  ditches,  forms  a 
semicircle,  the  chord  of  which  is  the  sea-cliff ;  but  it  is  evident  that  part 


NEW  PASSAGE. 


481 


of  the  eminence  has  mouldered  away;  and  most  probably  the  figure  of  the 
fortification  was  once  circular.  E,  of  this  encampment  is  Sudbrook  Chapel^ 
a  small  Gothic  ruin^  which  was  formerly  attached  to  a  mansion  of  Norman 
foundation,  of  which  no  traces  appear  ;  its  remains  have  probably  been 
swept  away  by  the  encroachment  of  the  Severn.  Some  piles  of  hewn  stone 
near  the  ramparts  may  be  its  relics.  The  vicinity  of  Chepstow  abounds 
with  numerous  curiosities.  St.  Pierre’s,  Moin’s  Court,  and  Mathern 
Place,  have  claims  to  attention,  and  may  be  visited  in  the  way.  A  foot¬ 
path,  running  mostly  upon  an  embankment,  leads  from  the  New  Passage, 
across  the  fields  to  St.Pierre^  an  ancient  seat  of  the  Lewis  f3.mily,  descended 
from  Cadifor  the  Great.  This  mansion  exhibits  an  incongruous  mixture, 
in  which  the  modern  sashed  window  is  patched  upon  a  Gothic  structure 
upwards  of  400  years  old  !  An  embattled  gateway,  flanked  with  pentagonal 
towers,  is  still  more  ancient.  In  the  porch  of  the  church  are  two  sepulchral 
stones  which  have  attracted  the  notice  of  antiquaries  ;  one  of  them  bears  an 
inscription  indicating  it  to  be  the  tomb  of  Urien  de  St.  Pierre,  who  lived  in 
the  reign  of  Henry  III. 

Nearly  opposite  this  place  is  the  estuary  of  the  Severn,  which,  after 
traversing  a  space  of  upwards  of  200  miles,  is  here  received  by  the  Bristol 
Channel. 

Crossing  the  park  and  fields  from  St.  Pierre,  and  passing  the  little  valley 
of  Pool  Meyric,  where  a  brook  falls  into  the  Severn,  to  the  r.  stands  Ma¬ 
thern  Palace,  formerly  the  episcopal  seat  of  the  bishops  of  Llandaff.  The 
structure,  which  surrounds  a  quadrangular  court,  raised  by  different  bishops, 
is  situated  in  a  gentle  hilly  country,  pleasingly  diversified  with  wood  and 
pasturage.  Some  specimens  of  dilapidated  grandeur  appear  in  the  e.  window; 
the  entrance  was  through  a  lofty  ornamented  porch,  which  has  been  de¬ 
stroyed,  and  the  building  is  now  attached  to  a  farm.  The  tenant  who 
inhabits  it  is  a  pleasant  guide. 

“  That  court  contains  my  cattle  ;  swine  are  there ; 

Here  fowls  and  fuel  ;  underneath  is  beer. 

Snug  in  that  chamber,  sir,  my  corn  is  kept ; 

My  clover  yonder,  where  a  king  has  slept ; 

My  dame  her  curds  does  in  the  chapel  squeeze  : 

In  chancel  salts  her  chines ;  the  font  holds  cheese. 

There  died  a  bishop  ;  here  his  ghost  walk’d  since, 

Until  our  Joan  did  fairly  scold  it  thence. 

Oft  rosy  churchmen  here  to  ease  resign’d 

On  that  great  dough-trough,  then  a  table  din’d.” 

The  principal  hall  is  32  ft.  by  l6  ft.,  and  20  ft.  high  ;  the  chapel,  when  un¬ 
divided,  was  30  ft.  by  10  ft.  The  wreck  of  a  library  belonging  to  the  see  yet 
remains.  The  road  to  Chepstow  lies  upon  inclosed  lands ;  from  one  part, 
the  Severn  appears  as  two  spacious  lakes.  Hardwick  House,  on  the  r.,  stands 
upon  an  eminence  commanding  a  view  of  the  interesting  country  around. 
There  is  a  Chapel  near  the  mouth  of  the  Wye,  said  to  have  been  erected  in 
the  year  47.  It  has  been  overflowed  by  the  sea,  but  its  remains  are  yet  visible  at 
some  distance  below  the  high-water  mark  ;  a  proof  that  the  ocean  encroaches 
on  the  Monmouthshire  and  Glamorganshire  coasts ;  while  on  the  Flintshire 
and  Cheshire  shores  much  land  has  been  gained  from  the  sea.  In  the  chancel 
of  Mathern,  or  Mertheyrn,  Church  (a  Gothic  structure,  but  of  British  origin), 
is  an  epitaph  on  Theodoric,  King  of  Glamorgan.  It  was  placed  here  by 
Bishop  Godwin,  and  decorated  with  painted  ornaments  and  military  emblems. 

Here  lieth  intombed  the  body  of  Theodoric,  King  of  Moiganuch  or  Gla¬ 
morgan,  commonly  called  St.  Thewdrick,  and  accounted  a  martyr  because 


482 


NEW  PASSAGE. 


he  was  slain  in  a  battle  against  the  Saxons  (being  then  pagans),  and  in  de¬ 
fence  of  the  Christian  religion.  The  battle  was  fought  at  Tintern,  where 
he  obtained  a  great  victory.  He  died  here,  being  on  his  way  homeward, 
three  days  after  the  battle,  having  taken  order  with  Maurice  his  son,  who 
succeeded  him  in  the  kingdom,  “  that  in  the  same  place  he  should  happen 
to  decease,  a  church  should  be  built,  and  his  body  buried  in  the  same ; 
which  was  accordingly  performed,  in  the  year  6*00.’'’  There  is  an  inscrip¬ 
tion  to  the  memory  of  Thomas  Hughes,  Esq.,  of  Moin’s  Court,  clerk  of  the 
crown  for  the  counties  of  Monmouth,  Glamorgan,  Brecon,  and  Radnor,  who 
died  in  1()67.  Upon  a  brass  plate  are  the  effigies  of  Philip  MTUi am s  and  Alicia 
his  wife,  kneeling  upon  each  side  of  an  altar.  Within  a  short  distance  from 
Mathern  is  Moins  Court,  another  deserted  ecclesiastic  mansion.  Its  found¬ 
ation  is  attributed  to  Bishop  Godwin,  occupied  also  as  a  farm-house.  A 
handsome  Gothic  porch,  defended  by  two  lofty  turrets,  is  presented.  Within 
the  court-yard  are  two  Roman  inscribed  stones,  said  by  Gibson  to  have  been 
brought  from  Caerleon.  One  appears  to  have  been  a  votive  altar  ;  the  other 
records  the  repairing  or  rebuilding  of  the  temple  of  Diana  by  T.  H.  Post¬ 
humus  Varus.  Mr.  Wyndham  says  the  most  curious  of  the  inscriptions 
have  been  removed  to  the  House  at  Moin’s  Court.  In  the  orchard  adjoining 
is  the  ground  plot  of  a  court  of  large  dimensions,  anciently  called  Monk’s 
Court.  Mathern  palace  lies  about  200  paces  from  this  place. 

On  the  road  to  Chepstow,  through  the  village  of  St.  Pierre,  a  range  of 
naked  cliffs  appears  to  rise  from  a  tract  of  verdure ;  a  venerable  wood  sha¬ 
dowing  the  brow  of  the  rocks,  in  front  of  which  often  rises  a  forest  of  masts, 
with  waving  pendants.  This  singular  combination  results  from  the  position 
of  Chepstow  and  its  port,  in  an  abrupt  hollow,  inclosed  by  considerable 
eminences  in  every  direction.  The  whole  of  this  scenery  seems  to  unfold 
itself  like  a  map  beneath  the  view  of  the  advancing  traveller. 

There  is  a  footpath  to  Chepstow  from  the  Old  Passage  Inn,  command¬ 
ing  several  good  prospects.  The  Wye  is  often  seen  amidst  a  pleasing  variety 
of  wood  and  culture.  A  mile  on  this  side  the  venerable  town  and  castle 
appear  to  great  advantage.  The  Wye  meanders  close  by,  and  the  houses 
rise  irregularly  one  above  the  other,  backed  by  rich  lands  and  thick  woods. 
Approaching  nearer,  the  prospect  is  entirely  shut  out  by  a  high  wall ;  after 
descending  by  its  side  for  \  m.,  Chepstow  Castle  unexpectedly  appears  in  sight. 

On  the  road  to  Caldecot  Castle  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  encamp¬ 
ment  called  Porthskewydd  Encampment,  supposed  to  have  been  formed  by 
the  Romans  to  cover  their  landing  in  Siluria,  but  is  also  attributed  to  Harold 
during  his  invasion  of  Gwent.  The  village  of  Portskewydd,  or  Porth-yr- 
gewydd,  though  now  nearly  1  m.  from  the  shore,  was  once  washed  by  the 
sea,  and  probably  the  port  to  Caerw  ent,  as  its  name  may  imply ;  but  the 
deviations  of  the  Severn  current  have  reduced  this  once  busy  place  to  a  little 
creek,  now  scarcely  ever  used,  except  in  imminent  danger,  by  the  small  craft 
that  navigate  the  Severn  and  the  Wye.  Leaving  the  Black  Rock  Inn,” 
says  Mr.  Donovan,  our  route  conducted  us  through  a  fine  open  country 
of  singular  beauty ;  ascending  gradually  for  miles  into  hills  and  gentle  emi¬ 
nences  on  the  r. ;  and  sloping  into  a  most  extensive  sweep  of  low  but  fertile 
land,  to  the  broad  bosom  of  the  Severn,  on  the  1.”  Those  travellers  who 
wish  to  avoid  Chepstow  on  their  way  to  Milford,  might  walk  m.  to  Ports¬ 
kewydd,  and  there  meet  horses  and  attendants. 

On  the  road  to  Caerwent  occur  the  villages  Portskewydd,  1  m.,  and 
Crick,  1  i  m.,  whence  a  gentle  rise  leads  to  the  e.  gate  of  Caerwent.  This 
is  the  Via  Julia,  or  ancient  military  way,  formed,  according  to  Camden, 
about  the  year  80.  To  the  r.  is  the  river  Usk,  with  the  village  of  Llanfair 


NEWTOWN. 


483 


and  its  ivied  castle.  The  Rev.  Francis  Humphries^  author  of  Thoughts 
on  Happiness/’  was  rector  of  this  place.  To  the  1.  lies  the  coast  of  Somer¬ 
setshire  and  the  river  Severn. 


The  road  to  Usk  is  tedious  and  uninteresting,  over  wretched  and  rugged 
roads,  through  the  gloomy  forest  of  Wentwood. 


To  Chepstow,  5  miles.  Barber. 

Caldecot  Castle,  2  miles. 

Caerwent,  7^  miles.  Coxe  ;  Warner’s  2d  walk ; 


G.W.  Manbyj  Evans;  Donovan;  Skrine  ; 
Warner. 

To  Usk,  13  miles. 


NEWTOWN. 

From  Llanidloes,  14  miles.  Pugh.  From  Llanfyllin,  19  miles.  Pennant. 

Welshpool,  14  miles.  Skrine;  Bingley.  Back  from  Llanidloes.  Pennant;  Evans. 

Montgomery,  8|  m.  Wyndham;  Evans. 

NEWTOWN,  or  Tbe  Newydi),  a  newly-created  borough  in  the  hun¬ 
dred  of  the  same  name,  and  county  of  Montgomery,  is  situated  on  the  road 
from  Welshpool,  to  Aberystwith,  upon  the  Severn,  by  which  it  is  nearly 
surrounded.  It  contains  several  streets.  The  houses  are  mostly  timber 
framed,  the  intermediate  spaces  being  filled  with  lath  and  plaster,  like  the 
buildings  of  Llanidloes.  It  was  formerly  called  Llanfair  Ynghedewain, 
or  St.  Mary’s  in  the  cantref  of  Cydewain.  The  Church  is  an  ancient 
structure,  dedicated  to  St.  Idloes  ;  the  living  is  a  discharged  rectory,  in  the 
patronage  of  Thomas  Lloyd,  Esq.,  of  Bronwydd,  lord  of  the  manor.  A 
new  church  is  in  contemplation,  towards  the  erection  of  which  4000/. 
are  already  advanced  in  grants  and  subscriptions.  Pugh  says  the  walls  are 
covered  with  small  cards  in  lackered  frames,  containing  portions  of  Scrip¬ 
ture.  There  are  severaTold  knights’  mantles,  suspended  upon  poles.  An 
elegant  screen,  which  separates  the  chancel  from  the  nave,  is  adorned  with 
various  devices.  The  small  altar-piece  over  the  communion  table  contains  a 
picture  painted  by  the  poet  Dyer.  The  antique  Font  and  Screen  are  of  most 
curious  workmanship,  said  to  have  been  brought  from  the  abbey  of  Cwmhir, 
Radnorshire.  The  manufacture  of  flannel,  introduced  half  a  century  since, 
is  now  carried  on  to  a  very  great  extent.  Fifty  factories  have  been  established, 
revolving  50,000  spindles,  working  1200  looms,  and  50  carding  machines, 
propelled  by  water  and  steam.  Upwards  of  3000  persons  are  thus  employed, 
and  1500  pieces  of  the  finest  quality  are  sold  every  alternate  Thursday 
in  a  spacious  erection  opened  Sept.  1832.  Machinery  of  every  description 
is  made  here.  Here  are  a  foundery,  potteries,  tanneries,  and  malt-kilns, 
wharfs,  and  lime-kilns, —  in  short,  Newtown  has  rapidly  become  the  Leeds 
of  Wales.  It  possesses  other  sources  of  inland  commerce,  carried  on  by 
means  of  the  Montgomery  canal,  which  touches  at  Welshpool,  Llan-y-My- 
nach,  Ellesmere,  Chirk,  Ruabon,  Bersham  iron-works,  Gresford,  Chester, 
Liverpool.  The  Markets-  are  on  Tuesday  and  Saturday.  The  fairs  are 
on  the  first  Tuesday  in  February,  the  last  Tuesday  in  March,  the  first 
in  May,  24th  of  June,  last  Tuesday  in  August,  Oct.  24.,  and  Dec.  16’. 
Here  is  a  post-office,  and  a  plain  brick  Town-Hall,  but  no  corporation. 
The  resident  population  of  this  parish  in  1801,  consisting  of  only  one 
township,  called  Dyfryn  Llanfair,  was  990-  1831  it  augmented  to 

4550  inhabitants.  Newtown  is  a  contributary  borough,  uniting  with  others 
in  the  county  in  the  return  of  a  member  to  parliament. 

Newtown  Hall,  Rev.  G.  A.  Evors,  once  the  seat  of  the  Pryses,  is  situated 
in  a  fine  park  adjacent  to  the  town.  This  family  is  descended  from  Elystan 
Glodrydd,  one  of  the  five  royal  tribes,  and  became  possessed  of  this  place 

j  I  2 


484 


NEWTOWN. 


about  the  time  of  Henry  VI.  The  late  owner.  Sir  John  Pryse,  married 
three  wives.  The  first  two  he  embalmed  alld  placed  them  in  his  chamber, 
one  on  each  side  of  his  bed  !  The  third,  however,  admitting  no  rival- 
ship  either  by  the  living  or  dead,  refused  to  supply  their  vocations  till 
their  remains  were  displaced.  He  outlived  the  latter,  to  whom  he  had 
transferred  a  large  portion  of  affection.  He  hoped  that  a  woman  named 
Bridget  Bostock  could  restore  her  to  life,  and  desired  her  to  exert  her  mys¬ 
terious  powers,  but  without  any  desirable  effect. 

The  principal  Inns  are  the  Bear*s  Head  and  Red  Lion. 

On  the  Severn,  distant  4  m.  stand  the  remains  of  Castell  dol-forwyn^ 

the  Castle  of  the  Virgin’s  Meadow,”  stationed  upon  the  summit  of  a 
lofty  cone-shaped  hill,  of  steep  ascent,  commanding  a  view  of  the  contigu¬ 
ous  country.  These  ruins  are  surrounded  by  a  dingle,  whence  rises  a 
small  stream,  which  falls  into  the  Severn,  On  the  accessible  sides  of  the 
hill,  deep  trenches  are  cut  through  solid  rock.  Evans,  in  his  “  Hiss,  de 
Bardis,”  says  it  was  erected  by  Bleddyn  ap  Cynfin,  between  1065  and 
1073  ;  but  Dugdale  dates  it  much  later,  stating  it  was  built  by  Dafydd  ap 
Llywelyn,  about  the  year  1242.  This  fortress  was  quadrangular,  50  yards 
long  and  25  wdde,  but  of  no  great  strength.  A  small  part  of  the  n.  wall, 
with  some  remains  of  the  interior,  are  yet  remaining.  Antiquaries  are  not 
agreed  respecting  the  founder  of  this  structure.  The  Meadow  of  the  Virgin  ” 
is  supposed  to  allude  to  the  story  of  Avren,  the  daughter  of  Locrinus,  son  of 
Brutus,  first  king  of  Britain,  by  Essyllt,  daughter  of  the  king  of  Germany, 
whom  he  had  taken  captive  in  his  wars  against  Humyr,  king  of  the  Huns. 
Locrinus  had,  how^ever,  previously  espoused  himself  to  Gwendolen,  a 
daughter  of  Corineus,  who  entered  the  island  with  Brutus,  and  threatened 
to  besiege  him  with  an  army  should  he  refuse  to  fulfil  his  promise.  Lo¬ 
crinus,  therefore,  concealing  Essyllt,  declared  he  had  sent  her  out  of  the 
kingdom,  and  submitted  to  marry  Gwendolen.  Corineus  died  a  short  time 
afterwards.  Locrinus  then  immediately  divorced  Gwendolen,  and  declared 
Essyllt  his  queen.  When  Locrinus  died,  Gwendolen  assumed  the  govern¬ 
ment,  and  with  unrelenting  cruelty  caused  Essylt  with  her  daughter  Avren, 
whom  she  had  by  Locrinus,  to  be  thrown  into  the  river  and  drowned. 
From  this  circumstance  the  river,  it  is  supposed,  w^as  named  Avren,  after¬ 
wards  Sabrina,  and  lastly  Severn.”  (See  Milton’s  exquisite  description  of 
Sabrina  in  the  Masque  of  Co7nus.') 

The  Roman  station  Caer  Sws  lies  6  m.  w.  from  Newdown,  on  the  Severn. 
It  is  now  an  inconsiderable  hamlet ;  yet  tradition  says,  it  formerly  extended 
from  Aberhavesp  to  Ystrad-faelawg.  The  site  of  the  encampment  is  at 
this  day  discernible  ;  it  is  a  quadrangular  rampart,  about  150  yards  square. 
In  the  s.w.  angle  were  dug  up  some  Roman  bricks,  which  were  used  in  the 
erection  of  a  chimney  in  a  public-house  hard  by.  The  adjacent  inclo¬ 
sures  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles  are  thought  to  represent  the 
numerous  streets  of  which  it  once  consisted,  while  the  hollows  memorialise 
its  ancient  fosses.  On  the  n.  side  are  the  remains  of  the  rampart  Gwyn 
Fynydd  ;  on  the  e.  is  Rhos  Ddiarbed,  the  Marsh  where  no  Quarter  was 
given,”  in  the  parish  of  Llanddinam ;  here,  besides  entrenchments,  there 
is  a  large  barrow  ;  and  at  Cefn  Carnedd,  on  the  w.  side,  are  similar  re¬ 
mains.  Upon  the  s.  side  is  a  vast  conical  mount,  surrounded  by  a  pro¬ 
digious  wide  fosse  ;  at  the  n.  extremity  is  an  oblong  area,  of  various  width, 
its  greatest  diameter  being  about  70  yards.  This  is  defended  on  all  sides 
by  a  lofty  vallum  and  deep  fosse.  In  the  lower  part  is  a  porta,  into  a  large 
rectangular  camp,  200  yards  long,  and  more  than  100  broad.  At  the  other 
extremity,  in  an  opposite  direction,  is  a  similar  entrance;  the  whole  en- 


NEWTOWN. 


485 


compassed  with  a  fosse  and  dike.  Near  Gwynfynnyd  is  easily  traceable  the 
Roman  road^  It  runs  in  a  direction  from  Offer  Sws  to  Meivod; 

vestiges  are  distinctly  visible  as  far  as  the  banks  of  Vyrnwy^  near  Llyssin. 
The  late  Dr.  Worthington  traced  this  sarn  to  Ystrad-fawr,  near  Coed-y- 
Clawdd,  in  the  parish  of  Rhaiadyr-in-Mochnant;  thence  crossing  Rhos-y- 
Brith-dir  to  Pen-y-street_,  it  passed  through  Lam-jwrch^  to  Caer-fach, 
supposed  to  have  been  a  small  Roman  camp  ;  the  terminus  appears  to  have 
been  at  Chester.  Others  are  of  opinion  that  this  road  enters  the  parish  of 
Llanerfyl  on  the  hills  of  the  Drum^  and  passes  through  Cors-y-Fisog^  an 
impassable  bog ;  thence  cross  moors  in  a  direct  line  to  Bwlch-y-drum 
and  Cinniwyll,  where  it  crosses  the  Banwy  below  Neuadd-wen^  and  up 
Craig-y-go,  entering  the  parish  of  Llanfihangel^  at  Rhyd-pont-ystyllod.  Al¬ 
though  covered  with  grass,  it  may  be  easily  traced  in  the  shape  of  a  ridge, 
in  lands  formerly  ploughed  ;  but  the  pavement  lies  below  the  surface. 
Quarries  whence  the  materials  have  been  raised,  and  sites  of  huts,  are  still 
discernible.  (^Cambrian  Itin.)  In  this  rugged  district  are  the  mountains 
of  Carno,  celebrated  as  the  scene  of  the  most  sanguinary  battle  recorded  in 
the  Welsh  annals.  It  occurred  in  1077,  between  Gryffyd  ap  Cynan,  legal 
heir  to  the  throne  of  N.  Wales,  and  Trahaearn  ap  Caradog,  the  assumptive 
monarch.  The  contest  was  fierce,  every  inch  of  ground  being  disputed 
with  valour  and  obstinacy.  After  a  bloody  conflict,  Trahaearn  was  slain, 
his  army  completely  defeated,  and  GryfFydd  put  in  possession  of  the  crown 
his  ancestors  had  worn.  Above  Llanddinam,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  is 
the  remarkable  encampment,  Gaer-fychan,  Little  Fortress,”  indented  by 
several  fosses,  and  probably  of  British  origin.  The  church  of  Llanddinam 
stands  pleasantly  on  an  abrupt  elevation,  which  protrudes  like  a  promontory 
into  the  vale.  A  small  lake  in  this  vicinity  still  retains  the  appellation 
Llyn-yr-afrange,  “  the  Beaver’s  Pool.”  This  seems  to  confirm  the  asser¬ 
tion  of  Giraldus,  that  beavers  in  his  time  found  a  habitat  here.  A  beau¬ 
tiful  road  conducts  the  traveller  to  Llanidloes,  Be7'th  Llwyd,  the  remains 
of  an  ancient  mansion,  occurs  by  the  way. 

From  Newtown  to  Montgomery,  the  incipient  Severn  accompanies  the 
road  nearly  half  way.  Ahermule,  5  m.  from  Newtown,  is  delightfully  situ¬ 
ated  on  the  bank  of  the  Severn,  surrounded  by  hills  and  decorated  by 
woods.  Hence  the  road  gently  ascends,  and  from  the  eminence  a  most  ex¬ 
tensive  and  admirable  view  is  discovered. 

On  his  way  to  Montgomery,  Mr.  Pennant  made  a  considerable  excursion. 
He  first  skirted  a  hilly  country,  chiefly  through  narrow  lanes,  to  see  the 
church  of  Bettws,  lying  in  a  bottom  4  m.  n.  from  Newtown,  and  1  J  m.  n.  w. 
from  Castell  dol-forwyn,  formerly  belonging  to  the  nunnery  of  Llanlugan. 
The  steeple  makes  a  conspicuous  figure.  It  was  built,  according  to  an  in¬ 
scription,  in  1581,  by  its  vicar,  John  Meredyth.  A  portrait  of  him  appears 
on  a  brass  plate  attached  to  a  wall.  The  road  leading  from  Brynderwen 
Bridge  to  Garthmill  is  very  beautiful.  The  high  grounds  on  the  n.  side  are 
richly  planted,  and  the  scenery,  enlivened  by  the  meandering  of  the  river 
Severn  presents,  especially  in  Autumn,  one  of  the  most  pleasing  and  interest¬ 
ing  spectacles  in  this  part  of  the  Principality.  Further  upon  the  top  of  a  hill 
on  the  1.  is  a  considerable  exploratory  mount.  On  the  same  range  is  a  post, 
called  Pen-y-gaer,  surrounded  by  three  trenches.  From  a  hill  called  Cefn~ 
Uppol,  is  a  delightful  view  of  Severn  vale ;  beyond  appears  the  long  extent 
of  Cerri  hills,  Corndon  hill,  Longmynd,  Titterstone,  Glee  hill,  and  the 
rugged  mass  of  Breiddin.  On  the  1.  is  the  house  of  Faenor,  once  the  pro¬ 
perty  of  the  Pryses,  4  m.  n.  e.  from  Bettws,  and  within  1  m.  of  Berriew. 
He  thence  descended  into  the  vale,  crossed  the  Severn,  and  passed  along  the 


486 


NEWTOWN. 


road  by  Roman  camp,  seated  in  the  chapelry  of  Forden.  Beyond,  near 

the  mansion  of  JVant-cribba,  rises  a  great  conoid  rock.  The  base  is  sur¬ 
rounded  by  a  ditch,  leaving  only  a  narrow  pass  of  the  fort.  At  a  distance 
is  another  trench ;  Offas  Dike  lies  about  200  yards  hence.  Enter  a  part  of 
Shropshire,  at  Walcot,  and  keeping  s.  soon  reach  Chirhury,  a  church  and 
village  which  gave  name  to  the  hundred,  and  a  title  to  the  celebrated  chival¬ 
rous  knight,  Edward  Lord  Herbert,  a  man  of  extraordinary  abilities,  and 
great  eccentricity.  Near  this  village  stood  a  priory  of  Benedictines, 
founded  in  the  reign  of  King  John  ;  and  3  m.  further  is  the  town  of  Mont¬ 
gomery.  On  this  road  grows  Dipsacus  pilosus. 

To  Llanidloes,  the  high  road  continues  with  the  river  Severn  on  the 
r.  on  the  way  to  Llandinam.  Leave  on  the  r.  Great  Faenor^  1-^m.  and 
Penestrywad,  1^  m.  About  1  m.  beyond  on  the  r.  is  Abe^'havesp  Hall, 
1  m.  further,  pass  Red  House,  and  1  m.  beyond  on  the  r.  Maes-mawr,  Pryce 
Davies,  Esq.;  Llandinam,  l^m.;  Berth-du,  Maurice  Stephens,  Esq.,  3  m.; 
Pen-rliyddlan,  lim.;  Dolwen,  2  m.  Near  Llanidloes,  2-|  m.  leave  on  the 
r.  Berth-Llwyd,  an  ancient  mansion,  for  centuries  the  residence  of  the 
Llwyds,  collaterally  descended  from  Tudor  Trevor.  On  the  n.  side  of  these 
woods  is  the  small  lake  called  Llyn-Ehyr. 

To  Llanbadarn-fawr,  and  Llandrindod,  pass  Llanbadarn-fynydd, 
12m.;  Llanddewi-Ystradenny ,  74  ^  small  village,  situated  in  a  narrow 

vale  near  the  Ithon,  containing  a  few  houses,  and  a  church,  a  substantial  struc¬ 
ture,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  cbancel,  which  contain  two  small  tablets,  in 
commemoration  of  Philips  and  Burton  ;  the  latter,  an  eccentric  character,  re¬ 
sided  in  an  adjoining  mansion,  and  possessed  a  considerable  estate  in  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood,  which,  to  the  exclusion  of  his  relatives,  he  devised  to  a  wealthy 
provincial.  In  this  district  are  several  vestiges  of  antiquity.  The  caer,  or 
fortification,  which  occupies  the  summit  of  a  high  hill  close  to  the  village, 
was  apparently  a  camp  of  great  extent,  being  inaccessible  on  the  Ithon  side  : 
the  remainder  is  defended  by  two  parallel  intrenchments,  probably  the  work 
of  some  of  the  Mortimers  or  Cadwalladr,  in  the  I2th  century.  Upon  a  hill 
opposite  is  Tomen  Bedd  Ygre,  “  Ugre’s  Grave,”  a  large  tumulus  of  earth  en¬ 
compassed  by  a  small  moat  like  Caer-Sws.  Of  this  description  were  all  the 
monuments  which  the  ancient  Britons  erected  in  honour  of  their  chiefs  or 
great  men.  This  mode  6f  interment  continued  many  ages  before  and  after 
the  introduction  of  Christianity  ;  but,  when  the  custom  of  burying  in 
churches  and  churchyards  became  general,  they  were  discontinued,  and 
afterwards  appropriated  to  criminals.  3^  m.  n.  w.,  upon  a  small  elevation, 
stood  Castell  Cym  aran,  of  which  not  a  fragment  of  the  superstructure 
remains :  the  site  and  moat  are  still  visible.  This  fortress  is  supposed  to 
have  been  erected  by  the  Normans  in  the  11th  century.  It  was  soon  after 
destroyed  by  the  Welsh,  but  again  rebuilt.  Llanbadarn-fawr,  3^  m. 
Llandrindod,  4  m. 

The  road  to  Machynlleth  lies  across  the  Severn  to  Aberhavesp,  3  m.  1  fur. 
(on  the  r.  Aberhavesp  Hall,}!,  Proctor,  Esq.)  Llanwenog,  3  m.  3.  fur,;  Carno, 
44  m.  ;  Pen-y-bont,  J.  C.  Severn,  Esq.,  where  is  an  excellent  inn,  called 
the  Severn  Arms  Hotel,  6  m.  1  fur.  (On  the  r.  is  Dolgadfen,  Mrs.  Griffiths, 
8  m.  from  Penybont,  on  the  r.  is  a  road  to  Dinas-mouddy,  8^  m.)  Penegos, 
and  Church,  9  m.  5  fur.  Machynlleth,  1  m.  5  fur. 

From  Newtown  on  the  road  to  Mallwyd,  nearly  to  Llanwenog,  distant 
7  m.,  is  a  pleasing  district ;  the  vale  of  the  Severn  and  its  attendant 
mountains  lie  on  the  1.  Reaching  Llanwenog,  the  vale  of  Carno  is  seen  on 
the  r.  and  on  the  1.  is  a  succession  of  mountains.  4  m.  further  pass  the 
village  of  Llancarno,  and  thence,  proceeding  7  tM.>  turn  to  the  r.  imme¬ 
diately  on  approaching  a  turnpike-gate,  quitting  the  Machynlleth  road. 


NEWTOWN. 


487 

Descend  into  a  deep^  well-wooded  dell  which  expands  into  a  valley  ;  a 
branch  of  the  river  Dovey  murmurs  along  the  bottom,  the  mountains 
towering  on  each  side  to  a  prodigious  height.  The  pedestrian  would  omit 
much  by  taking  the  carriage  road  to  Machynlleth,  through  the  last- 
mentioned  turnpike-gate,  distant  thence  9  m.,  which  at  Machynlleth  forms 
an  acute  angle  to  Mallwyd.  The  road  next  opens  into  a  fine  expanded 
vale,  bounded  at  some  distance  on  the  s.  w.  by  black  precipices  ;  4  m.  from 
Cemmaes  it  contracts,  and  soon  after  winds  to  the  r.  up  a  steep  ascent, 
whence  the  vale  just  quitted  is  finely  contrasted  with  a  more  wild  and  very 
mountainous  country. 

To  Llanfair  leave  Llanllwchaiarn  on  the  hanks  of  the  Severn  to  the  r. 
proceeding  n.  to  Red  House,  2  m.  (a  little  beyond  is  a  road  which  strikes 
off,  to  Aberhavesp,  3  m.  on  the  1.  ;  to  the  r.  from  this  turning  lies  Castell 
dol-forwyn,  2  m.)  pass  Highgate  on  the  r.  where  keep  to  the  1.  instead  of 
going  directly  forward  to  Bettws,  on  the  Pool  road,  Llidiartaderyn,  },  m. 
(l  m.  further  a  road  branches  to  the  1.  to  Gregynnog,  the  seat  of  Charles 
Hanbury,  Esq.,  a  good  old  family  mansion,  neither  fortunate  in  situation 
nor  elegance,  yet  eminent  as  having  been  the  residence  of  Arthur  Blayney, 
Esq.,  who  may  be  justly  ranked  with  the  Man  of  Ross.  The  door  of  Mr. 
Blayney  was  equally  open  to  the  titled  tourist  as  to  the  wretch  whose 
wanderings  never  knew  the  world’s  regard.”  Patriotism  seemed  in  him  an 
innate  principle.  He  improved  the  roads,  and  the  churches  he  repaired 
and  ornamented.  His  tenants  he  considered  his  friends.  To  each  of  his 
labourers  he  allowed  land  to  support  a  cow  or  two,  and  in  winter,  often 
gratuitously  supplied  them  with  hay.  To  the  poor  his  charities  were 
diffusive  and  liberal,  but  he  rather  sought  the  retiring  subjects  of  distress, 
than  favoured  the  idle,  the  vagrant,  and  the  clamorous. 

Having  passed  2]  m.  a  road  to  the  1.  leads  to  Llanwyddelan,  1  m.,  and 
^m.  further  pass  Malmaison ;  on  the  r.,  1  m.  further,  leave  Plds-siolyn 
on  the  1.  Llanfair,  1  m. 

Castell  dol-forwyn,  stands  upon  the  high  ridge  of  a  hill,  almost  sur¬ 
rounded  by  a  wooded  dingle.  At  the  bottom  runs  a  brook  which  falls  into 
the  Severn,  distant  1  m.  This  fortress  is  very  ruinous,  and  resembles 
much  in  its  masonry  Castell-dinas-bran.  On  two  more  accessible  sides 
are  deep  trenches,  cut  through  the  rock.  It  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
rich  vale  of  the  Severn.  1  m.  s.  e.  is  Aherfechan,  once  inherited  by  the 
Blayneys,  Prices,  and  the  Lloyds. 

The  angling  stations  in  the  vicinity  of  Newtown  are  Aberhavesp,  3  m. 
Bettws,  4  m.  Llanmerewig,  4  m.  Llanwenog,  6|  m. 

To  Montgomery,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Severn,  Llanllwchaiarn 
1  m.  is  a  small  village  with  a  respectable  church,  dedicated  to  Llwchaiarn, 
a  British  saint  of  the  6th  century.  Rev.  D.  Evans,  vicar.  Nearly 
adjoining  is  Rock  House,  the  seat  of  W.  Jones,  Esq.,  a  peculiarly  beautiful 
spot.  The  Montgomery  canal  accompanies  the  Severn  from  Newtown 
for  many  miles.  1  m.  up  the  vale  on  the  r.  is  Dolf organ,  the  residence  of 
John  Edwards,  Esq.  Further  on,  the  village  and  church  of  Llanymerewig 
meet  the  eye ;  and  at  a  little  distance  is  Cwrt,  which  belongs  to  David 
Pugh,  Esq.  In  this  vicinity  is  Gaer,  where  are  the  remains  of  a  fortress. 
Nearly  opposite  to  Llanymerewig,  is  Aher-Bechen,  once  belonging  to  the 
Lloyds,  Descending,  Dol-forwyn,  or  the  Meadow  of  the  Maiden,  next 
occurs.  The  history  of  this  spot,  now  involved  in  fable,  is  said  to  resemble 
that  of  Sabrina.  Here,  upon  the  summit  of  a  conical  hill,  are  the  ruins  of 
Castell  dol-forwyn,  the  Castle  of  the  Virgin’s  Meadow.”  From  the  frag¬ 
ments  of  a  tower,  and  other  scanty  remains  of  this  structure,  it  appears  to 

I  I  4 


488 


NORTHOP. 


have  been  constructed  of  the  thinly  laminated  slate  of  the  country^  similar  to 
that  of  C’astell  Dinas  Bran.  According  to  the  opinion  of  John  Dafydd  Rhys^ 
which  has  been  supported  by  Evans,  it  was  founded  by  Bleddyn-ap-Cynwyn, 
between  the  years  1065  and  1078.  This  fortress  seems  to  have  occupied 
a  quadrangle  of  150  ft.  by  75.  The  walls  are  nearly  4  ft.  in  thickness. 
Dol-forwyn  Hall  is  the  seat  of  the  Rev.  John  Pryce^  rector  of  Bettws ;  the 
village  lies  in  a  valley  about  i  J  m.  n.  w.  from  the  castle.  Four  miles  below 
Newtown,  the  river  Abermule  joins  the  Severn.  Upon  the  adjacent 
eminence  of  BrynJiill,  are  the  remains  of  an  old  fortress.  Gian  Havren, 
the  residence  of  Mrs.  Herbert,  is  beautifully  situated  among  lofty  eminences, 
luxuriantly  clothed  with  wood.  At  HumpliTies  Pennant  was  discovered 
some  ancient  armour.  On  the  r.  bank  of  the  river  is  Castell  Goi^an-du, 
supposed  to  have  been  a  monastery  ;  and  lower  down  the  stream  is  Caer^ 
Howel,  William  Pugh,  Esq.  Montgomery,  2  m. 


To  Montgomery,  8  m.  Pennant ;  Bingley  ;  Pugh. 
Llanidloes,  14  miles.  Pennant  -,  Skrine. 
Llandrindod,  23  miles.  Wyndham. 

Llanfair,  10  miles  Evans. 


To  Mallwyd,  27  miles. 

Bishop’s  Castle,  16  miles. 
Machynlleth,  30  miles.  ^ 
Llanbadarn-fawr,  20  miles. 


NORTHOP. 

ETora  Hawarden,  miles.  Bingley.  j  From  Flint,  3  miles.  Pennant  j  Wyndham. 

Mold,  3  miles.  Bingley.  1 

NORTHOP,  or  Llan-Eurgain,  is  a  village  situated  in  the  midst 
of  finely  varied  and  highly  picturesque  scenery,  in  the  hundred  of  Colesliill, 
and  county  of  Flint.  The  Church  is  spacious  and  embattled,  consisting  of 
a  nave,  chancel,  and  north  aisle ;  the  tower  is  lofty  and  elegant.  The  living 
is  a  rectory  and  vicarage  annexed  to  the  bishopric  of  St.  Asaph,  dedicated 
primarily  to  St.  Eurgain,  daughter  of  Maelgwn  Gwynedd,  and  wife  of 
Elidyr  Mwynfawr.  Another  presents  the  effigy  of  Edwyn  ah  Goronw. 
There  are  also  a  figure  of  a  knight  in  complete  armour,  and  one  of  a  female 
well  sculptured,  having  the  head  surmounted  by  a  beautiful  canopy, 
supposed  to  represent  Lleuci  Llwyd  of  Kimnael.  [See  Totvyn.]  The 
population  of  this  parish,  ‘including  the  townships  of  Caer-fallvvch,  Cil- 
staym,  Golftyn,  Leadbrook- major,  Leadbrook-minor,  Northop,  Sychtyn, 
and  Gwybre,  in  1831  was  3026.  The  Market  is  on  Saturday.  The  fairs 
are  held  March  14.,  July  7-j,  and  October  12.  Here  are  two  schools, 
one  founded  in  l606,  for  the  children  of  the  parish,  and  for  one  boy  from 
each  of  the  parishes  of  Cwm,  Flint,  Holywell,  and  St.  Asaph :  the  other 
for  ten  poor  girls  of  the  parish.  The  Petty  Sessions  are  holden  here  every 
other  month.  It  is  a  post  town.  The  parish  contains  about  13,000  acres, 
good  arable  and  pasture  land,  besides  several  thousand  which  might  be 
brought  into  cultivation,  nearly  the  whole  of  wdiich  is  cultivated.  Monachlog , 

the  Monastery,”  in  the  township  of  Northop,  is  situated  on  Watt's  Dike. 
The  two  Leadbrooks  doubtless  derive  their  names  from  the  old  smelting 
hearths  which  lie  below  Leadbrook  House,  where  the  Romans  smelted  the 
ore,  obtained  from  Halkin  mountain,  and  the  neighbourhood.  A  field  of 
coal  lies  under  most  part  of  the  parish.  In  the  hamlet  of  Caer-fallwch, 
mines  have  been  worked  for  ages,  but  are  now  rapidly  declining.  About 
1  m.  N.  w.  from  the  church,  are  the  moated  ruins  of  Ll{)s  Edwyn.  Edwyn 
was  prince  of  Tegengl,  in  the  middle  of  the  10th  century,  and  one  of  the 
fifteen  tribes  of  N.  Wales.  Northop  is  supposed  to  derive  its  name  from 
being  situated  n.  of  East  or  Queen’s  Hope.  In  the  township  of  Golftyn,  a 
quay  and  pier  have  been  recently  formed  by  the  Irish  Coal  Company, 


PEMBROKE. 


4-89 


The  new  channel  of  the  river  Dee  Company  passes  through  a  portion  of 
this  parish.  W.  Parry,  LL.  D.,  who  was  executed  before  the  door  of  the 
parliament  house,  in  1584,  for  designing  the  death  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
was  a  native  of  Northop.  Not  less  than  seven  places  of  worship  for 
dissenters  are  erected  in  this  parish. 

To  Holywell  on  the  r.  is  Weppra  Hall,  T.  Jones,  Esq.  Pass  Pentremoch 
on  the  1.  with  Upper  Sychden,  Mrs.  Lloyd ;  Middle  Sychden,  Sir  W. 
Wynne;  and  Lower  Sychden,  Rev.  John  Conway  Potter.  Northop, 
22  m.  On  the  r.  is  Upper  Cornice,  Middle  Cornice,  and  Lower  Cornice, 
being  genteel  residences ;  near  the  sea  is  Kelsterston,  John  Edwards,  Esq., 
near  which  at  the  top  of  Y-Fron,  James  Okell,  Esq.  At  the  distance  of 
1  m.  is  a  road  on  the  r.  to  Skeifiog  and  Caerwys  ;  leaving  Berthddau  Park 
on  the  1.  pass  Cyglision,  on  the  r.  to  Halkin.  Inn,  the  Raven,  2  m.  7  fur. 
Below  Halkin  on  the  r.  is  the  residence  of  Col.  Hughes ;  on  the  1.  Halkin 
Hall,  Earl  Grosvenor  ;  and  ^  m.  beyond  is  the  seat  of  Robert  Hughes,  Esq. 
Pentre-Halkin,  with  its  hall  on  the  1.  ;  on  the  r.  is  Helyyenywern.  On  the 
r.  to  Flint,  3  m.  One  mile  beyond,  on  the  1.  is  Pen-y -Pylle,  H.  Humphries, 
Esq. ;  and  i  m.  further  on  the  1.  is  Pistyll,  William  Boardman,  Esq. 
Holywell,  2|  m. 

To  Flint,  3  miles.  Bingley.  I  To  Mold,  3  miles. 

Holy  well,  6  miles.  Bingley.  Chester,  Hi  miles. 

Hawarden,  4i  miles.  Wyndham;  Pennant.  [ 


PEMBROKE. 

From  Carew,4m.  Wy ndh anti ;  Barber  ;  Donovan,  j  From  Tenby,  10  miles.  Evans. 

Miltord,  7  miles.  Malkin.  j  Manorbeer  Castle,  7  miles.  Skrine. 

PEMBROKE  is  a  borough,  market-town,  and  sea-port,  in  the  hundred 
of  Castlemain.  The  name  of  this  place  is  derived  from  Penbroch,  “  the 
Head  of  the  Foam,”  or,  as  others  think,  from  Pen-fro,  a  cape,  or  pro¬ 
montory.  It  occupies  a  singular  projection  of  land,  which  separates  the 
estuary,  the  main  branch  running  on  the  n.  side,  while  the  other  smaller 
branch  bends  to  the  s.  under  the  suburb  of  Monkton.  The  town  consists 
of  one  long  street  along  the  ridge  of  a  hill  adorned  with  slanting  gardens. 
Though  the  county  town,  it  appears  little  more  than  a  village,  without 
bustle  or  business.  It  was  formerly  of  more  consideration,  but  its  com¬ 
merce  and  importance  has  been  transferred  to  Haverfordwest.  The  Nor¬ 
mans  considered  the  natural  advantages  of  its  situation  of  great  import¬ 
ance,  and  employed  all  their  powers  of  ingenuity  to  improve  its  strength. 
It  was  encompassed  by  a  wall,  of  which  on  the  n.  side  are  some  remains, 
very  lofty,  and  flanked  with  numerous  bastions  of  immense  thickness. 
The  s.  side  of  the  wall  is  partly  entire,  but  much  has  been  reduced  to  fur¬ 
nish  materials  for  modern  buildings. 

In  1821  the  town  contained  49^5,  and  in  1831,  6511  inhabitants. 
Jointly  with  Tenby,  Whiston,  and  Milford,  it  returns  one  member  to  parlia¬ 
ment,  the  right  of  election  being,  until  a  recent  act,  vested  in  the  mayors,  2 
bailiffs,  and  sergeants  at  mace,  and  about  1500  burgesses  of  the  three  boroughs. 
This  is  also  constituted  a  polling  place  in  the  election  of  a  knight  for  the 
shire.  The  Market  is  held  on  Saturday  ;  the  Fairs  on  April  12th, 
Trinity  Monday,  July  l6th,  Oct.  10th,  Nov.  SOth,  and  in  the  suburb 
of  Monkton,  on  May  4th,  and  Sept.  25th.  The  principal  Inns  are  the 
Golden  Lion  and  Green  Dragon.  Here  is  a  Grammar  School,  but  it  is 
endowed  with  only  10^.  per  annum.  The  Petty  Sessions  for  the  hundred 


PEMBROKE. 


490 

of  Castle  Martin  are  held  here ;  and  the  mayor  holds  a  court  once  a  fort¬ 
night.  All  the  lands  in  the  three  parishes  of  St.  Mary^  St.  Michael^  and  St. 
Nicholas^  are  inclosed.  This  town  has  given  the  title  of  Earl  to  many 
families;  that  of  Herbert  received  this  dignity  from  Edward  VI.,  with 
whom  it  continues. 

Leland  says  that  The  towne  is  well  waulled  and  hath  iii  gates,  by  est, 
west,  and  north,  of  the  wich  the  est  gate  is  fairest  and  strongest,  having  a 
faire  but  a  compasid  tour  not  rofed,  in  the  entering  whereof  is  a  portcolys, 
ex  solido  ferro.”  Of  these  erections  there  are  now  but  very  imperfect  re¬ 
mains  ;  the  N.  gate,  however,  is  still  in  tolerable  repair. 

The  produce  of  the  country  around  is  plentiful,  which  renders  Pem¬ 
broke  a  cheap  retirement  for  families  of  slender  incomes.  On  the  western 
termination  of  a  widening  ridge,  are  situated  the  ruins  of  the  Castle.  These, 
in  regard  to  extent,  variety  of  architecture,  and  boldness  of  situation,  rank 
among  the  most  splendid  monuments  of  antiquity  in  S.  Wales.  Its  outline 
presents  many  sides,  with  many  bastions  and  projections  of  difiPerent  sizes 
and  forms.  The  style  of  architecture  in  this  fortress  is  a  mixture  of  the 
Norman  with  the  early  Gothic.  The  massive  tower  commanding  the 
water,  the  grand  entrance  from  the  town,  and  the  round  tower,  are  the 
only  parts  in  tolerable  preservation.  It  is  seen  to  the  greatest  advantage  on 
coming  up  with  the  tide.  The  castle  was  divided  into  an  inner  and  outer 
ward ;  in  the  former  were  included  the  keep  and  state  apartments ;  in  the 
latter  the  inferior  buildings  and  offices  for  the  use  of  the  garrison ;  there 
were  some  good  rooms  over  the  entrance  leading  to  the  town.  Leland 
says,  In  the  atter  ward  I  saw  the  chaumbre  wher  king  Henry  VII.  was 
borne,  in  knowledge  whereof  a  chymmeney  is  new  made,  with  the  arms 
and  badges  of  king  Henry  vii.”  This  castle,  standing  upon  a  rock,  is  in 
many  places  45  feet  high,  and  encompassed  with  water.  Its  weakest  side 
was  to  the  town,  defended  only  by  a  dry  ditch,  cut  through  the  solid  rock, 
having  a  semicircular  barbican  to  cover  the  entrance.  The  keep  is  75  ft. 
high  to  the  dome,  l63^  ft.  in  circumference  at  the  base,  and  the  mean 
thickness  of  the  wall  is  about  14  ft.  It  was  divided  into  4  stories,  each 
story  lessening  in  diameter.  It  is  still  covered  in  with  a  vaulted  stone 
roof.  To  the  n.  of  this  tower  is  a  suite  of  apartments  ;  the  fronts  are  com¬ 
posed  of  the  outer  wall  of  the  castle,  apparently  of  a  more  recent  architec¬ 
ture  :  probably  these  rooms  were  appropriated  to  the  Countess  of  Richmond, 
and  her  infant  son.  The  basement  story  of  this  suite  includes  the  door 
that  opened  into  the  staircase  leading  to,  as  Leland  terms  it,  the  mar- 
vellus  vault  caullid  the  Wogan/'  a  corruption  of  Ogof,  a  cave.  This  re¬ 
markable  excavation  in  the  rock  is  nearly  circular,  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
vaulted  roof,  in  diameter  about  77  ft.,  and  was  probably  used  as  a  store¬ 
room.  This  cave  is  remarkable  for  its  echo. 

The  origin  of  this  castle  is  clouded  by  historic  doubt.  Arnulph  de 
Montgomery  appears  to  have  built  a  castle  hereabout  the  year  IO9O,  upon 
an  ancient  British  earthwork.  Pembroke  Castle  is  famous  in  history  for 
the  brave  defence  made  by  its  garrison  in  favour  of  Charles  I.  under  the 
command  of  Poyer  and  Laugharne.  After  its  surrender  to  Cromwell,  in 
1649,  Poyer  was  shot.  The  public  buildings  are  two  churches  wdthin  the 
town,  and  one  in  the  suburbs  ;  the  Town  Hall,  in  which  the  assizes  for  the 
county  are  held  ;  and  the  Custom  House. 

St.  Michael’s  Church,  at  the  e.  end  of  the  town,  bears  indications  of 
great  antiquity.  The  style  of  architecture  is  Norman  ;  the  plan  cruciform, 
having  a  stunted  tower,  the  area  of  which  opens  by  four  arches  into  the  nave  ; 
the  chancel  and  the  transepts  are  of  the  simplest  and  rudest  construction. 


PEMBROKE. 


491 

St. Mary  s  Church  is  stationed  near  the  centre  of  the  town  ;  and  is  somewhat 
naore  ornamental.  In  this  edifice  the  pointed  order  prevails^  and  it  con¬ 
sists  of  navCj  chancel,  and  n.  side  aisle,  with  a  small  chapel  to  the  s. 
Three  arches  are  walled  up,  which  evidently  communicated  with  buildings 
which  do  not  now  exist.  To  St.  Michael’s  was  attached  a  subordinate 
chapel  or  hospitium,  a  little  to  the  e,  of  the  church,  without  the  town’s 
walls.  The  site  is  called  Marian  s  or  Magdalen  s  Chapel.  To  St.  Mary’s 
was  annexed  a  chapel  of  ease  called  St.  Anne's,  n.  w.  of  the  town,  of 
which  scarcely  a  trace  remains.  These  churches  with  Monkton  are  con¬ 
solidated  vicarages.  The  parent  church,  called  St.  Nicholas,  once  stood 
within  the  castle  walls,  which  Arnulph  de  Montgomery  gave,  in  1098, with 
20  caracates  of  land,  to  the  abbey  of  St.  Martin  at  Sayes,  in  Normandy, 
the  origin  of  Monkton  Priory.  The  Priory  Church  was  of  great  extent, 
formed  of  an  admixture  of  the  Saxon  and  pointed  orders.  The  nave  is 
vaulted  with  stone.  The  pointed  arch  which  led  to  the  unroofed  part  now 
forms  the  back  of  the  communion  table.  The  church  is  paved  with  glazed 
bricks,  bearing  arms,  mottos,  and  flowers.  The  modern  font  is  placed 
upon  the  fragment  of  a  beautifully  clustered  column,  a  remnant  of  the  an¬ 
cient  edifice.  The  Mausoleum  of  the  Owens,  and  probably  also  of  the 
Wyrriotts  of  Oriel  ton  and  the  Meyricks  of  Bush,  is  here.  In  the  un¬ 
roofed  chapel  there  are  some  handsome  windows,  a  canopied  recess,  and 
altar-stone  stalls  for  two  priests.  Parallel  to  this,  on  the  n.  side  is  a  build¬ 
ing  of  similar  dimensions,  formerly  connected  with  a  nave  of  the  church. 
The  Prior  s  Mansion,  a  little  to  the  w.  of  the  cemetery,  now  converted 
into  a  farm-house,  is  singularly  formed  of  varied  architecture.  It  is  as¬ 
cended  by  a  flight  of  steps,  at  the  foot  of  which  are  remains  of  very  singular 
pillars.  The  basement  is  vaulted,  and  the  out-buildings,  together  with  the 
walls  that  enclosed  the  whole,  convey  to  the  beholder  an  idea  of  the  prior’s 
great  establishment.  A  Pore  House  of  large  dimensions,  exists  entire. 
Two  chapels  were  appended  to  this  priory  ;  that  dedicated  to  Deiniol  has  a 
tower  and  spire  ;  the  other,  named  Crug-Mahaern,  is  now  in  ruins.  Gilbert 
Strongbow  was  the  first  Earl  of  Pembroke.  (See  a  history  of  the  earldom 
of  this  place  in  Fenton  s  Tour.')  It  was  granted  by  Edward  VI.  to  Sir 
Wm.  Herbert,  then  master  of  the  horse,  and  one  of  the  privy  council,  in 
which  family  it  still  continues. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Holcombe  had  a  large  collection  of  coins  of  the  later  em¬ 
perors  j  and  a  curious  foundation-stone,  with  an  alphabet  of  Saxon  letters 
upon  it  finely  engraven. 

When  at  Pembroke,  Mr.  Wyndham  walked  to  the  ferry,  2  m. ;  whence, 
having  an  order  for  the  custom-house  boat,  he  sailed  for  some  time  about 
the  haven  of  Milford,  and  then,  the  wind  being  contrary,  he  rowed  up  the 
river  with  the  tide  to  Haverfordwest. 

In  the  reign  of  Plenry  I.,  a  colony  of  Flemings,  driven  from  their 
country  by  an  inundation,  were  permitted  to  settle  in  the  w.  neighbourhood 
of  Milford  Haven.  These  were  often  attacked  by  the  Welsh,  but  unsuc¬ 
cessfully.  They  soon  extended  their  territory  over  a  great  part  of  the 
county,  and,  in  conjunction  with  the  Normans,  carried  their  arms  as  far  as 
Llanstephan.  Camden  calls  this  district  ‘‘  Little  England  hey ond'W dies 
and  the  difference  of  appearance,  customs,  and  language,  between  the  inha¬ 
bitants  of  S.  Pembrokeshire  and  their  neighbours,  is  strikingly  obvious  at 
present.  Both  sexes  among  the  Flemings  distinguish  themselves  by  wear¬ 
ing  a  short  cloak  called  Gawr  Wittle.  In  Carmarthenshire,  the  tourist  will 
scarcely  meet  a  peasant  who  speaks  a  word  of  English  ;  but  in  an  hour’s 
ride,  towards  Pembroke,  he  will  find  it  universally  spoken.  The  men,  tall 


PEMBROKE. 


and  well  made,  evidently  incline  more  to  the  English  than  the  Welsh  cha¬ 
racter  j  yet  they  possess  some  distinct  personal  traits. 

Crossing  a  ridgy  mountain  on  the  road  to  Haverfordwest,  Milford 
Haven  presents  to  view  a  noble  sheet  of  water. 

AN  EXCURSION  IN  THE  HUNDRED  OF  ST.  MARTIN, 

By  B.  Fenton,  Esq. 

Quitting  the  magnificent  ruins  of  Pembroke,  pass  through  Monkton, 
from  the  height  of  which  an  admirable  view  may  be  obtained.  Reach 
Dry  Burrows,  a  furzy  moor  covered  with  tumuli.  To  the  1.  of  this  death- 
devoted  waste,  upon  rising  ground,  stands  Orielton,  probably  inhabited  by 
a  person  called  Oriel,  a  name  now  nearly  obsolete.  In  the  time  of 
Henry  II.  it  was  possessed  by  the  family  of  Wyrriott,  who  held  it  till  the 
reign  of  Elizabeth,  when  Sir  Hugh  Owen,  knight,  married  the  sole  heiress. 
His  son,  by  marrying  his  cousin,  the  heiress  of  Bodeon,  Anglesea,  was  de¬ 
scended  from  Hwva  ap  Cynddellw,  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes  of  N.  Wales. 
By  the  death  of  Sir  Hugh  Owen,  the  house  of  Orielton  has  changed  its  master, 
the  late  baronet  having  by  will  bequeathed  his  name  and  fortune  to  his 
kinsman,  John  Lord,  Esq.  Here  turn  to  the  r.  passing  Castleton,  though 
now  but  a  farm-house,  was  once  the  residence  of  one  of  the  earliest  Ad- 
venae,  named  Castle,  whose  daughter  and  sole  heiress  Mabel,  married  Sir 
Stephen  Perrott.  Still  here  and  there  observe  faint  remains  of  tumuli. 
From  this  height  to  the  r.  is  seen  the  navigation  from  Pennarraouth,  up  to 
the  town  of  Pembroke.  The  coast  here  is  famous  for  oysters  of  superior  ex¬ 
cellence,  in  inexhaustible  quantities.  Descend  by  Henllaii,  anciently  in¬ 
habited  by  the  descendants  of  Gwynfardd  Dyfed.  Hence  to  Pwll-y-crochon 
churchyard,  situated  upon  a  small  creek  of  Milford  Haven,  in  which  a 
memorable  skirmish  took  place  between  the  royal  and  parliamentary  forces. 
Upon  one  of  the  corner  stones  of  the  n.  aisle  is  an  inscription  to  the  memory 
of  Ralph  Beneger,  the  rehuilder  of  the  church,  whose  remains  are  interred 
on  the  s.  side  between  the  door  and  the  belfry,  where  may  be  seen  his 
effigy  in  a  canonical  habit,  under  an  arched  canopy.  The  Benegers,  now 
extinct,  were  the  original  proprietors  of  Benegerstown  (afterwards  con¬ 
tracted  to  Bangestori),  and  of  considerable  eminence  in  this  neighbourhood. 
The  parish  church  of  Bkoscrowther  is  dignified  with  a  handsome  tower,  and 
the  interior  contains  two  or  three  figures  of  ecclesiastics  tolerably  sculptured. 
Distant  A  m.  stands  Eastington,  or  vulgarly  Iseston,  long  the  residence  of  the 
family  of  Meares.  Before  the  conquest,  a  branch  of  the  royal  family  of  W ales 
flourished  here  in  the  person  of  Jestyn,  grandson  of  Howel  Dda.  It  seems 
to  have  been  castellated,  though  little  of  the  original  building  exists.  The 
Eerrots  inhabited  this  mansion  for  some  centuries,  till  it  merged  into  Ha- 
roldstone,  near  Haverfordwest.  Not  far  from  the  church,  there  is  a  well, 
arched  over,  formerly  called  St.  Degmens,  or  Decuman’s,  to  which  great 
virtues  have  been  ascribed.  Skirting  the  Angle  Bay,  reach  the  village  of 
that  name,  so  called  from  being  somewhat  placed  hi  angulo.  It  is  large, 
and  bears  marks  of  its  former  consequence.  The  Sherhornes  were  the  an¬ 
cient  lords  of  the  village.  The  church  is  a  respectable  fabric,  but  contains 
nothing  remarkable.  A  belfry  seems  to  have  stood  on  the  s.  side.  Against 
the  s.  wall  there  is  a  handsome  monument  of  the  late  Brigadier  Ferrars. 
Against  the  wall  in  the  inside,  is  a  small  sculptured  figure  of  a  man,  in  a 
ludicrous  attitude.  In  the  cemetery  is  the  effigy  of  a  priest,  almost  covered. 
In  the  N.  E.  corner,  built  over  a  vault,  is  a  neat  little  building,  probably 


PEMBROKE. 


4-93 

once  an  oratory.  This  church  was  one  of  Giraldus’s  benefices^  and  without 
doubt  rich.  To  the  n.  of  a  little  brook  running  behind  the  churchyard^ 
are  the  remains  of  a  considerable  building  with  a  square  tower  called  the 
Castle,  said  to  have  been  the  principal  residence  of  the  Sherbornes,  now  an 
Inn.  The  appendage  of  a  large  pigeon-house  stands  in  a  field.  To  the 
s.  w  of  the  churchyard  are  seen  the  ruins  of  a  handsome  erection  like  a 
religious  structure.  Three  sisters^  it  is  said^  built  each  a  house,  of  which 
this  was  one,  the  castle  was  another,  and  the  third  a  mansion  a  little  way 
out  of  the  village  to  the  s.  e.,  called  the  Hall.  To  the  w.  of  the  village,  in 
a  field,  may  be  traced  the  site  of  a  chapel.  The  cemetery  extended  to  the 
shore.  Hence  along  the  coast  is  the  Block  House,  a  singular  building  reared 
upon  the  very  edge  of  a  horrid  precipice  overhanging  the  sea,  fronting  an¬ 
other,  upon  the  Dale  side  of  Milford.  The  masonry  of  these  erections  is 
excellent.  Owen  ascribes  them  to  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.,  Morris  to  the 
reign  of  Elizabeth,  and  Fenton  thinks  they  were  formed  by  the  Romans  for 
the  security  of  the  harbour,  there  being  traces  of  a  Roman  road  which  led  from 
Menapia,  or  Menevia,  near  St.  David’s,  coastwise  to  Dale,  where  the  oppo¬ 
site  Block  House  stands.  (See  Mr.  Fenton’s  Tour,  p.  404.)  To  the  s.w. 
of  the  Block  House  was  Sheep  Island,  insulated  at  full  sea.  The  point  of 
peninsular  land  to  which  it  adjoins  is  separated  from  the  main  land  by  a 
very  deep  fosse.  Leaving  on  the  1.  what  was  once  Bangeston,  cross  an  ex¬ 
tensive  tract  called  Newton  Burrows,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  a  crom¬ 
lech,  resting  upon  two  upright  stones,  the  third  being  overturned.  After 
traversing  this  extensive  sandy  tract,  thickly  stocked  with  rabbits,  descend 
by  Corston  House  to  Stembj'idge,  the  w.  limit  of  the  privileges  of  Pembroke 
under  its  original  charter.  Corson  or  Corsetown,  so  called  from  being  situated 
above  Castle  Martin  Gorse.  About  the  year  1791  this  bog  was  enclosed  ; 
and  though  the  soil  is  the  rich  deposit  of  ages,  requiring  no  manure,  yet  it  is 
neglected.  Ascend  to  the  village  of  Castle  Martin,  where  is  the  site  of  an 
ancient  British  earthwork.  At  two  angles  of  the  irregular  square  are  yet 
discoverable  the  truncated  remains  of  bastions.  The  church  is  situated  to 
the  N.  w.  in  a  very  sequestered  hollow  ;  it  has  a  tower,  hut  the  aisles  are 
ruinated.  Moor  lies  on  the  1.  In  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century  it 
was  the  principal  mansion  in  this  part  of  the  district.  Its  form  is  irregular ; 
there  are  many  ruinous  and  extensive  out-huildings.  A  little  further  on  is 
Merion  Court,  the  head  of  a  manor  now  belonging  to  Lord  Cawdor.  Some 
part  of  the  masonry  is  highly  finished.  In  the  village  is  an  upright  stone 
to  which  cattle  taken  in  trespass,  it  is  said,  were  tied.  To  the  n.  e.  of  the 
village,  upon  a  knoll,  is  a  large  British  circular  Camp,  encompassed  by  3 
aggers.  The  2  outer  are  nearly  levelled,  the  inner  is  almost  entire.  Hence 
the  road  passes  in  front  of  Brownslade,  the  w.  extremity  of  Lord  Cawdor’s 
immense  property ;  a  place  affording  a  specimen  of  farming  on  an  enlarged 
scale  ;  in  short,  every  feature  indicates  a  superior  style  of  management. 

Proceeding  in  the  same  direction,  and  following  the  coast,  come  to  Bul- 
liver,  where  a  strong  earthwork  occupies  a  tongue  of  land  projecting  into 
the  valley,  commanding  a  little  bay  below  it,  evidently  the  work  of  invaders. 
The  camp  is  inclosed  by  fosses  of  considerable  depth  on  the  land  side.  Nearer 
the  sea  is  Linney,  an  old  mansion,  once  the  property  of  the  Rows,  a 
family  now  extinct.  Pass  Linney  Head,  and  forward  to  the  Head  of 
Man,  a  promontory  of  vast  height,  tremendously  overhanging  its  base.  A 
little  E.  occurs  another  Danish  camp,  upon  the  outer  agger  of  which  is  a 
small  tumulus.  From  this  point  catch  a  fine  view  of  an  insular  pyramidal 
rock,  called  Pennyholt  Stock  (perhaps  from  Pennau  hollt),  standing  at  the 
entrance  of  a  small  bay,  formed  by  huge  cliffs  of  singular  stratification. 


PEMBROKE. 


494 

The  Wash  (so  called  from  being  covered  by  the  sea  at  high  tides)  is  a 
shelving  ledge  of  rock^  where  parties  resort  to  shoot  the  aquatic  birds  which 
frequent  it.  This  employment  is  called  sport.  Can  that  be  sport  which 
inflicts  the  tortures  of  death  Where  is  human  reason  ?  The  spot  most 
remarkable  upon  this  singular  coast  is  the  site  of  a  large  Danish  Camp,  which 
occupies  an  extensive  neck  of  land^  including  a  profound  chasm  called  the 
Caldron, 'whewcQ  the  two  insular  rocks  called  The  Stacks  or  Castles;  these 
are  very  lofty^  and  being  disjointed  from  the  main  land  by  the  continued 
action  of  the  waves^  are  well  disposed  in  the  distance.  The  entrance  into  this 
camp  was  by  a  winding  ascent,  into  which  the  rocks  gradually  slope.  The 
curved  rampart  fortifying  it  towards  the  land,  stretched  from  this  sheltered 
acclivity  to  the  other  side  of  the  isthmus^  where  the  cliffs  enclose  a  large 
space,  in  the  centre  of  which  the  Caldron  yawns  most  horribly.  At  the 
bottom  are  two  natural  arches.  A  little  further  e.  is  another  camp.  In 
this  excursion  notice  several  funnel-shaped  depressions,  incident  to  all  lime¬ 
stone  tracts.  In  the  largest  is  a  plantation  of  ash  trees.  Bosheston  Meer 
is  a  very  small  aperture,  in  the  surface  of  limestone  rock,  which  connects 
with  the  sea  by  a  large  and  winding  funnel.  Instances  have  occurred  when 
this  reservoir  of  water  has  been  impelled  and  agitated  by  the  concurrence 
of  wind  and  tide,  forming  a  column  of  foam,  30  or  40  ft.  above  the  mouth 
of  the  pit,  attended  with  the  sound  of  thunder,  which  has  been  heard  at  the 
distance  of  many  miles.  A  little  beyond  to  the  e.  is  a  fissure  in  the  cliffs, 
not  discoverable  till  you  have  advanced  near  its  edge  called  Huntsman  s 
Leap,  over  which  it  is  said,  two  hunters  in  full  chase  were  carried  !  Ar¬ 
rive  at  the  Horse  Block,  a  fixed  directory  leading  down  to  St.Govans  Chapel 
and  Well,  a  dell  which  leads  to  a  flight  of  limestone  steps  ;  these,  super¬ 
stition  says,  cannot  be  numbered.  Mr.  Fenton  in  his  descent,  counted  52, 
which  agrees  with  Ray,  Itin.  p.  242.  The  chapel  occupies  the  whole 
pass  down  to  the  sea,  being  placed  across  it.  This  structure  measures  20 
ft.  by  12. ;  an  altar  is  formed  of  a  large  slab  of  limestone  raised  upon 
masonry.  On  the  r.  is  a  niche  for  holy  water,  and  in  the  e.  wall  an  arched 
doorway  opening  to  an  excavation  in  the  limestone  rock,  just  large  enough 
to  contain  a  middle  sized  man.  On  the  outside  is  a  small  arched  belfry, 
having  a  hole  in  the  stone  roof  within  for  the  admission  of  a  rope.  De¬ 
scending  several  stone  steps,  arrive  at  the  sainted  Well,  where  crippled 
patients  bathe  their  limbs,  and  leave  their  crutches  as  votive  offerings.  In 
proceeding  downwards,  several  large  fragments,  when  struck  with  a  stone 
are  as  sonorous  as  a  bell.  The  greater  bay,  to  which  this  retreat  opens,  is 
formed  by  a  most  majestic  amphitheatre  of  lofty  and  precipitous  cliffs  ;  the 
more  recessed  cove  where  the  hermitage  is  placed,  exhibits  the  most  pictu¬ 
resque  boundaries,  one  rising  from  the  sea  like  a  pyramid,  and  the  other 
forming  a  long  projection  with  an  arch  through  it.  Scarcely  any  thing  can 
vie  with  the  awful  wildness  of  this  place.  The  magnificent  area  in  which 
this  small  chapel  is  situated  is  a  temple  more  sublimely  grand  and  affecting 
than  all  the  mosques  of  Turkey,  and  all  the  cathedrals  of  France,  Italy, 
and  Spain. 

After  regaining  the  height  on  the  way  to  Stackpool  Court,  pass Poo/, 
a  house  so  named  from  a  small  sheetof  water,  fed  by  a  permanent  spring.  The 
family  of  Adams  once  resided  here,  but  migrated  to  the  banks  of  Milford 
Haven,  leaving  this  to  supply  the  purposes  of  a  farm-house.  Pass  through 
Bosheston ,  where  there  is  a  church  and  a  handsome  glebe-house.  Below  the 
village,  cross  an  arm  of  the  estuary  of  Stackpool,  under  a  tongue  of  land 
on  which  is  a  strong  encampment,  and  ascend  a  gentle  slope  near  the  summit 
of  which  is  a  small  adit  or  cavern  in  the  limestone  rock.  Human  bones 


PEMBROKE. 


495 

and  other  articles  have  been  found  in  the  morass  which  separates  it  from 
the  encampment.  This  neighbourhood  undoubtedly  has  been  the  seat  of 
many  a  sanguinary  contest.  Harold  is  said  to  have  infested  this  coast  and 
to  have  left  rude  monuments  of  his  predatory  victories  thus  inscribed  :  — 

HIC  HAROLDUS  VICTOR  FUIT. 

Of  three  stones,  the  most  e.  stands  in  Stackpool  warren_,  pitched  upon  one  end; 
the  second  surmounts  a  carnedd,  in  a  field  called  Stackpole  Park^  consisting 
of  a  great  mass  of  limestone,  6  ft.  above  the  ground,  5  ft.  in  breadth,  and 
1  ft.  in  thickness ;  it  is  bedded  in  an  almost  circular  mound  of  stones.  The 
third  stone  is  upon  the  same  line,  but  more  w.;  it  is  the  most  elevated,  and 
incrusted  with  a  minute  lichen.  Stackpool  Court  (from  the  Stack  rock  at 
the  mouth  of  Broadhaven),  is  the  elegant  seat  of  Lord  Cawdor.  It  is  placed 
on  the  w.  side  of  the  pool,  on  a  fine  eminence  at  the  edge  of  a  bold  declivity. 
It  bore  originally  a  castellated  form,  but  during  a  whole  century  has  under¬ 
gone  progressive  changes,  and  lost  its  ancient  baronial  character.  In  the 
civil  wars  it  was  fortified  and  garrisoned  for  the  king.  The  walls  were  so 
strong  that  the  ordnance  did  little  execution.  The  present  mansion,  which 
occupies  the  same  site,  is  of  wrought  limestone,  built  by  the  son  of  Sir 
Alexander  Campbell  of  Cawdor  Castle,  in  Scotland,  who  settled  here  on 
marrying  Miss  Lort,  sole  heiress  of  this  extensive  domain.  In  examining 
the  present  structure,  at  a  short  distance,  its  architecture  appears  heavy. 
Lady  Cawdor  has  contributed  to  Mr.  Fenton’s  Tour,  from  her  own  pencil, 
a  charming  view  of  this  vicinity,  taken  near  the  bridge  in  crossing  from  the 
house  to  the  park.  The  mansion  has  two  fronts,  the  principal  one  facing  the 
pleasure  ground,  the  other  opening  to  a  fine  piece  of  water.  Enter  the 
latter  from  a  broad  terrace  extending  to  the  whole  length ;  and,  after  de¬ 
scending  a  flight  of  steps,  it  continues  to  the  extent  of  a  spacious  conserva¬ 
tory.  The  house  is  formed  into  many  fine  apartments,  and  the  library  is 
large.  In  one  room,  containing  family  pictures,  is  a  whole  length  of  Lord 
Cawdor  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  and  another  of  Lady  Cawdor  by  Sir  Wm. 
Beechy.  The  offices  are  well  arranged,  and  the  stables  form  a  detached 
large  quadrangular  building.  Of  Stackpool,”  says  Mr.  Fenton,  without 
straining  a  compliment,  there  are  few  places  which  display  more  magnificence 
without,  or  more  sumptuous  hospitality  and  elegant  comforts  within.  But 
to  sum  up  the  importance  of  this  place,  be  it  known  that  it  stands  in  the 
midst  of  a  property  of  15,000  acres  of  most  valuable  land!  Opposite  is 
the  park,  well  stocked  with  deer,  deformed  by  some  barren  sand-banks,  and 
at  presetit  deficient  in  wood.  The  borders  of  the  lake  and  the  pleasure 
grounds  are,  however,  richly  wooded.  Between  the  park  and  the  sea  there 
is  a  warren  formed  of  mountains  of  sand  consolidated  by  that  valuable  plant 
morhesg  (Juncus  maritimus),  sea  or  mat  rushes.  The  lake  is  abundantly 
stocked  with  wild  fowl,  which  collect  at  a  call,  and  consent  to  be  fed  like 
barn-door  poultry.  It  is  evident  that  the  commoners  of  nature  would  have 
no  aversion  to  man,  were  he  uniformly  kind  to  them.  M.  Bougainville 
relates,  that  on  his  arrival  at  the  Malouine  or  Falkland  islands,  which  were 
not  inhabited  by  man,  all  the  animals  came  about  himself  and  companions; 
the  birds  settling  upon  their  heads  and  shoulders,  and  the  quadrupeds 
running  about  their  feet.  Forester  relates  several  similar  circumstances 
which  occurred  at  Duskey  Bay,  in  New  Zealand .  (See  an  Account  of  his 
Voyage  with  Captain  Cook,  vol.  i.  p.  128.)  Passing  along  the  park,  enter 
the  pleasant  village  of  Stackpool,  where  the  ancient  lords’  vassals  resided. 
Hence  descend  to  a  vale  on  the  r.,  where  a  private  gate  leads  through  a 


496 


PEMBROKE. 


woody  avenue  to  the  church  of  Cheriton,  or  Stackpole  Elidur,  from  its 
founder.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  a  sequestered  dell ;  is  a  plain  building, 
with  a  tower,  consists  of  a  nave  and  chancel,  having  two  small  aisles  on  the 
s.  side.  On  the  n.  side  of  the  chancel,  under  a  wrought  canopy  of  stone, 
lies  a  cross-legged  knight,  said  to  represent  Elidur  de  Stackpole,  the  first 
possessor  of  Stackpole,  the  same  whom  Giraldus  mentions,  who  took  the 
cross  at  the  time  that  the  Archbishop  Baldwin  made  his  transit  through  the 
country.  Ascend  to  St.  Petrox,  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  Lord  Cawdor.  The 
church  is  small,  but  very  light  and  neat.  The  only  conspicuous  monument 
is  a  handsome  mural  marble  tablet  to  a  Lady  Jane  Mansell,  wife  first  of  Sir 
Roger  Lort,  and  afterwards  of  Sir  Edward  Mansel,  of  Muddlescombe,  Bart., 
in  the  county  of  Carmarthen.  The  rectors  of  this  place  have  been  observed 
to  live  to  a  great  age.  Return  by  way  of  Furston.  A  little  way  before 
entering  the  town  of  Pembroke,  pass  the  ruins  of  Grove,  once  a  respectable 
mansion.  (See  its  history  in  Fenton’s  Tour,  425.) 

To  Tenby  pass  the  e.  gate,  mentioned  by  Leland  as  having  a  barbican 
and  portcullis  of  solid  iron,  now  nearly  obliterated,  A  few  hundred  yards 
without  this  gate,  at  the  junction  of  two  roads,  is  the  site  of  the  hospital 
dedicated  to  St.  Mary  Magdalen,  corruptly  named  Marians  Chapel.  Turn 
to  the  1.,  taking  the  road  to  Holland,  the  seat  of  Major-General  Adams, 
leaving  to  the  r.  tlfe  ruins  of  a  large  building.  From  this  road,  in  the  retro¬ 
spect,  is  a  most  picturesque  view  of  Pembroke.  The  object  of  this  deviation 
from  the  main  road,  called  the  Ridgeway,  is  to  visit  the  Church  of  Nash, 
which  contains  the  remains  of  one  of  the  ancient  crusaders.  The  effigy  of  a 
knight  of  the  cross  lies  amidst  the  rubbish  of  a  ruined  aisle.  The  sculpture 
is  good,  and  the  wire  armour  well  executed ;  the  face  is  entirely  broken  off, 
and  no  name  can  be  discovered.  Regain  the  Ridgeway  road  at  Llamphey, 
or  Llanfedd,  a  straggling  village  with  a  church  and  cross.  The  former  is 
dignified  with  a  handsome  tower ;  Rev.  J.  B.  Byers,  vicar.  A  modern  tablet 
bears  the  name  of  Oriel.  A  handsome  pew,  with  a  fire-place  in  it,  belongs 
to  the  house  of  Portclew.  Below  the  village  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient 
and  Episcopal  Palace  of  the  bishops  of  St.  David’s.  The  grandeur  and  extent 
of  this  place  is  ascribed  to  Gower,  but  much  contributed  to  by  Hoton,  who 
died  here  in  1309-  The  next  occupier  was  Bishop  Rawlins,  who  attended 
Sir  Rhys  ap  Thomas  to  the  tournament  at  Carew  Castle.  But  the  pecu¬ 
lating  Barlow,  in  38  Henry  VIII.,  alienated  his  manor  in  favour  of  Richard 
Devereux,  and  here  the  early  days  of  the  unfortune  Earl  of  Essex  were 
passed.  Llamphey  Court  is  entered  by  an  arched  gateway,  with  a  niche 
over  it.  Come  next  to  a  square  tower,  evidently  a  porter’s  lodge.  A  paved 
path  then  leads  by  a  flight  of  steps  to  a  room  called  the  red  chamber,  the 
floor  of  which  is  of  stucco.  A  little  way  to  the  r.  is  the  chapel ;  the  e. 
window  still  exhibiting  most  elegant  tracery.  A  little  further,  in  a  projec¬ 
tion  to  the  r.,  occur  some  of  the  great  rooms,  ascended  by  a  staircase  from 
without,  terminated  on  the  n.  side  with  an  open  parapet,  and  under  them 
the  kitchen,  pointed  at  top  and  ribbed.  Separated  by  several  ruined  apart¬ 
ments  vaulted  beneath,  to  the  w.  ascend  by  a  ladder  into  a  larger  and  grander 
room  than  the  former,  the  door  and  window  casings  of  which  are  of  free¬ 
stone  ;  and  at  one  end  a  door  opens  to  a  retiring  chamber.  To  the  e.  of 
the  chapel,  which  looks  into  it,  is  a  large  paddock,  once  forming  the  gardens 
and  orchards,  in  which  is  still  a  small  fish-pond.  It  had  a  warren  and 
park.  The  n.  wall  of  the  great  barn  or  granary,  attributed  to  Bishop 
Vaughan,  still  exists.  The  beacon  for  alarm  in  case  of  an  invasion  is  placed 
upon  an  ancient  tumulus  near  Llamphey.  Hodgeston,  a  village  with  a  church, 
lies  on  the  r.  This  interesting  road  over  the  Ridgevvay  has  been  justly 


PENMACHNO. 


497 


celebrated.  Its  course  lies  over  high  ground,  with  a  fall  on  each  side, 
commanding  a  view,  on  one  hand,  of  the  whole  mountainous  tract  of  Pem¬ 
brokeshire,  in  all  its  gradations  of  a  well-cultivated  country,  Laurenny, 
Carew,  Cresselly,  JefFreyston,  and  the  creeks  of  Milford;  on  the  other- 
hand  the  ocean  and  Lundy;  at  a  distance  the  turretted  pride  of  Manorbeer, 
and  the  lofty  spire  of  Tenby.  Manorbeer  might  conveniently  be  visited 
by  deviating  hence  from  the  main  road.  [See  Tenby.]  Regaining  the 
Ridgeway,  on  the  1.  the  cheerful  looking  village  of  St.  Florence  (Tregoyn) 
opens  to  view ;  to  visit  which  turn  out  of  the  road  down  a  narrow  lane. 
Many  of  the  houses  are  in  ruins.  The  living  is  a  rectoral  sinecure  appro¬ 
priated  to  St.  John’s  College,  Cambridge  ;  the  rector  is  patron  of  the  vicarage. 
The  church  is  a  very  substantial  building,  with  a  tower.  In  the  chancel  is 
an  epitaph  to  the  Rev.  Robert  Rudd,  and  another  to  an  ancestor  of  the  pre¬ 
sent  possessor,  O.  H.  Williams,  Esq.,  of  Ivy  Tower.  The  vicarage  house 
has  a  detached  building  near  it,  used  as  a  stable,  which  appears  to  have 
formed  a  portion  of  some  monastic  edifice.  The  earls  of  Pembroke  had  a 
walled  park  here  that  may  still  be  traced.  Ascend  the  hill,  and  again  fall 
into  the  excellent  road  from  which  a  deviation  was  made ;  pursue  it  a  little 
farther,  and  pass  Trellwyn,  or  Treflyne^  a  mansion  once  belonging  to  Gwil- 
lim  ap  Evan  ap  Owain,  of  the  great  house  of  Pentre  Evan  in  Cemmaes.  It 
accompanied  the  possessions  of  Manorbeer,  and  is  now  the  property  of  Lord 
Milford.  In  the  time  of  the  civil  wars  it  was  garrisoned  for  the  king,  and 
was  the  Earl  of  Carbery’s  head  station,  but  was  surrendered  on  quarter  of 
life  and  liberty.  Leaving  Trellwyn,  turn  to  the  r.  out  of  the  road  to  Tenby, 
through  winding  lanes,  to  view  the  village  of  Penally.  The  church  consists 
©f  a  nave  with  vaulted  roof,  in  which  is  a  screen  of  elegant  workmanship. 
In  the  s.  aisle,  under  a  plain  canopy,  is  an  ancient  altar-tomb,  having,  in 
alto  relievo,  two  heads,  a  cross  below,  and  a  rude  inscription.  In  the  area 
of  the  little  steeple  is  a  stone  coffin,  richly  overlaid  with  curious  fretwork. 
It  is  certain  that  this  was  not  its  original  destination.  The  elegance  of  exe¬ 
cution  indicates  that  it  once  contained  the  remains  of  some  distinguished  per¬ 
sonage.  In  the  cemetery  is  a  beautiful  shaft  of  an  ancient  cross,  covered 
with  rich  tracery.  In  a  field  a  little  n.  of  the  church  are  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  structure.  The  house  in  which  the  clergyman  resides  appears  to 
have  been  a  dignified  mansion  of  great  extent.  To  the  e.  and  s.  e.  of  this 
village,  as  far  as  Lidstip^  the  country  was  formerly  thickly  studded  with 
houses,  most  of  which  were  surrounded  with  a  court.  Returning  towards 
Tenby,  notice  the  conical  round  tower  on  the  Penally  side  of  the  back 
water  ;  at  the  base  it  is  scarcely  10  ft.  in  diameter,  about  20  ft.  high,  and 
divided  into  two  stories.  Some  have  thought  this  building  once  formed  a 
pharos,  some  a  hermitage,  and  others  a  landmark.  Now  enter  Tenby,  beau¬ 
tiful  in  every  stage  of  its  approximation. 

An  interesting  Excursion  may  be  made  to  Laurenny  and  Benton  castles, 
up  the  river ;  also  to  Milford  and  Pyle  Priory  on  the  Llaven. 


To  Milford,  7  miles.  Skrine  ;  Barber  ;  Evans. 
Tenby,  10  miles,  Malkin;  Fenton. 
Manorbeer  Castle,  6  miles.  Donovan. 


To  Pembroke  Ferry,  2  miles  ;  thence  to  Haver¬ 
fordwest,  by  water,  15  miles.  Wyndham. 
Haverfordwest,  by  the  turnpike-road  10  miles. 


PENMACHNO. 

From  Llanrwst,  7  miles.  Bingley. 

PENMACHNO  (the  head  of  the  Machno),  in  the  hundred  of  Nani 
Conwy,  Caernarvonshire,  is  a  singular  village  built  in  a  circle  round  the 

K  K 


PENMACHNO. 


498 

churchy  the  living  of  which  is  a  perpetual  curacy;,  in  the  patronage  of  Sir 
R.  W.  Vaughan,  Bart.  In  1831  the  population  of  the  parish  was  984. 
Fairs  are  held  April  17*,  August  18,,  and  October  20th. 

The  grandeur  and  wildness  of  the  surrounding  scenery  having  brought 
many  visitants,  Robert  Roberts,  who  keeps  the  public-house  here,  has  muclr 
improved  bis  accommodations,  and  seems  anxious  to  give  satisfaction.  He 
frequently  acts  as  a  guide,  and  is  well  qualified. 

A  mile  w.  from  the  village  is  a  cwm,  in  which  is  a  fall  of  about  60  ft. 
of  one  unbroken  sheet,  called  Rhaiadyr  Gldscwm,  rushing  through  a  narrow 
sluice,  and  under  a  plat  which  crosses  the  road,  into  a  woody  dingle  ;  but 
an  object  of  greater  attraction  lies  on  the  road. 

To  Llanrwst  near  Pont-y-Pandu,  at  the  fulling-mill,  2  m.,  the  scenery 
is  most  magnificent.  A  little  lower  is  the  junction  of  the  Machno  and  the 
Conwy.  Still  lower  occurs  Rliaiadyr-y-Grmyllwyd^  the  Fall  of  the  Grey 
Rock.”  The  alpine  scenery  for  a  mile  along  the  river,  is  the  most  bold  and 
sublime  that  can  be  conceived.  Follow  the  Conwy  to  its  junction  with  the 
Lledan.  The  prospect  during  the  whole  of  this  space  is  fine  beyond 
description.  Near  this  spot  is  a  very  deep,  broad  sheet  of  water,  called 
Llyn-yr-Afranc,  the  BeaveFs  Pool,”  formerly  frequented  by  those 
animals.  Hence  that  noble  riven  rock  which  soars  to  the  clouds,  called 
Craig -garreg-y-Gwalch,  the  Hawke’s  Rock,”  assumes  a  grand  and  majestic 
appearance.  Doiwyddelan  Castle  lies  about  3  m.  w.  of  this  place.  The 
precipitous  sides  of  Moel  Siabod,  are  close  to  it.  Near  Bettws-y-Coed  is 
Pont-y-Pair ,  a  bridge  over  the  Llugwy.  One  mile  and  a  half  further  up 
this  pass  is  the  fall  o!l  Rhaiadyr- y-Wenol.  The  valley  next  opens  into  a 
luxuriant  expanse  ornamented  with  handsome  villas,  farm-houses,  and  the 
town  of  Llanwrst,  The  road  now  leads  through  the  fine  woods  of  Gwydir 
Strangers  who  have  leisure,  v/ould  be  gratified  by  a  walk  to  the  heights 
above  the  mansion,  which  affords  fine  prospects  of  Snowdon  and  other 
high  mountains,  and  some  fine  lakes.  The  portion  of  the  original  struc¬ 
ture  still  remaining  contains  some  furniture  made  of  the  Drudical  oaks 
of  ancient  times;  also  the  cradle  which  nurtured  Sir  John  and  Sir  Richard 
Wynne  is  still  to  be  seen.  The  grounds  contain  a  good  collection  of 
plants.  On  the  way  look  at  the  chapel  in  the  wood.  This  domain  is 
now  the  property  of  Lord  Willoughby  D’Eresby,  the  highly  respected 
lord  lieutenant  of  the  county,  who  possesses  it  in  right  of  his  lady. 
Among  the  real  benefactors  of  the  Principality,  few  have  devoted  their 
attention  with  greater  zeal  and  more  flattering  success  than  this  scien¬ 
tific  nobleman,  whose  researches  derive  their  origin  from  the  patriotic 
wish  of  benefitting  his  country,  by  bringing  into  general  notice  its  un¬ 
heeded  treasures,  and  by  accommodating  its  neglected  capabilities  to  the 
increased  and  increasing  progress  of  the  arts,  manufactures  and  commerce 
of  the  empire.  With  these  exalted  views  his  lordship  has  perfected  a 
machine  for  rendering  peat  a  substitute  for  charcoal  prepared  from  wood, 
whereby  not  only  a  considerable  diminution  of  expense,  as  compared  with 
the  consumption  of  common  charcoal  will  be  saved,  but  a  material  emitting 
an  increased  intensity  of  heat  with  an  equal  durability  of  combustion  will 
be  ensured  to  the  resources  of  the  manufacturer.  Llanrwst. 

To  Festiniog,  miles.  Binglcy.  1  To  Llanrwst,  7  miles.  Pugh. 


499 


PENMORFA 

From  Pont  Aberglasllyn,  5i  miles.  Pennant.  I  From  Beddgelart,  7  miles. 

Llanllyfni,  11  miles.  Warner.  j  Tremadoc,  1  mile.  Pugh. 

PENMORFA,  in  the  hundred  of  Yfionydd,  Caernarvonshire,  is  a  small 
wood-clad  village  at  the  head  of  some  low  marshy  meadows,  romantically 
situated  on  the  w.  bank  of  Traeth  Mawr,  under  the  frowning  Hebog,  a 
vast  mountain  which  intersects  the  vale  of  Beddgelart.  Had  the  projected 
communication  been  adopted  across  the  peninsula,  this  place  might  have 
risen  into  importance,  but  in  its  present  state  the  Church  is  the  only  object 
that  can  divert  the  traveller  from  a  more  important  route.  The  living  is  a 
discharged  rectory  dedicated  to  St.  Beuno ;  the  Bishop  of  Bangor  patron. 
In  1831  the  population  of  the  parish  amounted  to  750.  A  small 
monument  commemorates  the  valour  of  Sir  John  Owen,  lord  of  Clenneney , 
a  demesne  in  the  vicinity.  After  Sir  John’s  defeat  at  Caernarvon  Castle,  he 
was  conveyed  to  Windsor,  where  were  already  confined  the  Earl  of  Holland, 
the  Lords  Goring,  Loughborough,  Capel,  and  Major  General  Langhorn,  for 
having  espoused  the  same  cause.  During  their  confinement  the  king  was 
beheaded,  and  they  were  ordered  for  trial.  [Supp.  286  and  289-]  The 
antiquary  will  visit  Dolbenmaen,  to  see  a  circular  tower  of  British  workman¬ 
ship,  apparently  a  signal  post  to  other  fortresses.  Ystym  Cegid  presents 
three  Cromlechs,  nearly  contiguous  ;  above  Penrnorfa  is  a  small  Druidic  circle, 
much  deranged ;  and  upon  Bwlch  Craigwen  is  one  larger,  and  more  entire, 
composed  of  38  upright  stones.  The  former  resembles  the  Bridestones,” 
near  Biddulph  in  Staffordshire,  and  the  latter  that  grand  bardic  circle  at 
Rolrict,  Oxfordshire. 

At  a  short  distance  from  Penrnorfa,  to  the  s.e.  are  two  small  inlets  of  the 
sea  called  Traeth-mawr,  and  Traeth-bach,  or  bychan.  Across  the  former, 
at  ebb  tide,  is  a  ford  on  the  road  to  Tan-y-bwlch;  and  another  over  the 
latter  J^to  Harlech.  These  save  very  circuitous  routes,  for  otherwise  the 
traveller  must  go  round  to  the  bridge  over  the  Glas-llyn,  near  Beddgelart. 
Passing  these  sands  is  often  attended  with  danger,  oAving  to  a  stream 
running  across  the  middle  of  each,  which  when  swelled  by  mountain 
torrents,  contain  sometimes  an  unusual  depth  of  water,  the  beds  being  left 
unequal  in  various  places  by  the  opposing  tide.  To  a  stranger  a  guide  is 
essentially  necessary  ;  and  under  the  most  favourable  circumstances  these 
fords  are  attended  with  inconvenience.  At  the  conflux  of  the  two  estuaries 
with  the  ocean  is  a  small  detached  sand-bank  called  Gest,  between  which 
and  the  two  traeths  there  is  a  deep  channel. 

Eastward  of  this  place  is  a  lofty  rocky  mountain,  called  Llallth  Gwyn,  or 
White  Hill,  whence  an  extensive  view  opens  stretching  over  the  village  of 
Penrnorfa,  the  bay  of  Caernarvon,  the  contiguous  mountains,  and  the  ocean. 

On  the  way  to  Caernarvon,  Drws-y-Coed,  the  Door  of  the  Wood,” 
may  be  passed.  This  route  commands  a  charming  prospect  of  the  gigantic 
Snowdon,  and  his  two  sons,  Cryh-y-Distyl  on  the  r.,  and  Cryb  Goch  on  the 
1.,  through  a  vista  8  m.  long.  In  this  direction  occur  the  celebrated  lakes 
of  Llynniau  Nantle,  in  a  romantic  vale,  each  nearly  1  m.  long  divided  by 
an  isthmus,  20  yards  wide.  On  the  r.,  by  the  lakes,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Cadair,  is  a  small  old  house,  where  Edward  I.  delighted  with  the  spot, 
frequently  spent  a  fortnight  at  a  time.  It  was  at  Drws-y-Coed  whence 
Wilson  took  his  excellent  drawing  of  Snowdon  ;  but  being  remotely  situated 
it  is  only  visited  by  ardent  tourists.  Pennant  remarks  that  the  com- 
pletest  view  of  Snowdon  is  from  this  place.”  Mr.  Hutton,  in  quoting  this 

K  K  2 


500 


PEN-Y-BONT. 


passage  from  Pennant_,  remarks  that  the  man  who  becomes  an  author, 
exhibits  his  own  folly,”  but  does  not  further  explain  his  meaning.  He 
adds,  however,  that  he  could  not  rest  without  a  sight  of  this  unfrequented 
spot,  though  it  cost  him  a  walk  of  SO  m.  In  this  day’s  excursion  from 
Caernarvon,  he  says,  I  had  Q  m.  to  walk  from  Drws-y^  Coed,  after  the 
sun  was  set.  It  was  dark  ere  I  reached  Caernarvon,  and  was  completely 
jaded.  Those  who  have  not  acted  like  me,  will  be  inclined  to  say,  He 
has  exhibited  his  own  folly.”  1  can  only  reply  in  Irish,  Every  man  has 
his  hobby-horse,  and  I  ride  mine  while  I  walk  on  foot.”  The  water  from 
the  copper  works  of  Drws-y-Coed  is  said  to  have  injured  the  fish  in  these 
lakes,  but  there  are  two  smaller  ones  in  the  mountain,  called  Llyn  Cwm 
Silin  and  Llyn-Cwm-Dylin,  more  favourable  for  angling.  A  large  quantity 
of  slate  is  quarried  in  this  parish,  and  in  that  of  Llandwrog ,  which  are 
carted  to  Caernarvon,  and  thence  exported.  Craig~y -Dinas  is  a  piece  of 
ground  of  a  circular  form,  about  70  yards  in  diameter.  It  is  steep  next 
the  Llyfni,  and  two  mounds  run  on  the  opposite  side,  leaving  a  ditch 
between.  It  is  supposed  to  be  an  old  military  position.  The  tradition  of 
the  parish  says,  that  once  a  town  stood  there,  with  a  church,  and  there  is 
undiscovered  money.  The  poet  Michael  Pritchard  was  born  here  about 
1710,  and  died  in  1731,  aged  22.  Mr.  Owen  says  that  St.  Rhediw  was  buried 
at  this  place.  His  well,  his  seat,  the  mark  of  his  thumb,  &c.  are  still  shown. 

To  Harlech  the  mouth  of  the  Traeth  mawr  and  Traeth  fach  is  crossed 
by  a  boat  at  the  ferry. 

Upon  the  coast  near  Penmorfa  grows  Cheiranthus  sinuatus. 

To  Criccaeth,  3  miles.  Pennant ;  Bingley.  I  To  Tremadoc,  1  mile.  Pugh. 

Harlech,  7  miles.  Warner.  [ 


PEN-Y-BONT. 

From  Kington,  16  miles.  |  From  Rhaiadyr,  10  miles. 

PEN-Y-BONT,  a  village  in  Radnorshire,  on  the  high  road  from 
London  to  Aberystwith,  is  situated  on  the  Ithon.  It  was  anciently  called 
Rhyd-y-clivon  ;  but  it  took  its  present  name  from  the  first  bridge  that  was 
erected  over  that  river.  About  the  year  1760,  John  Price,  Esq.,  built 
here  an  inn  and  several  houses.  He  also  established  the  Radnorshire  bank, 
which,  being  the  only  one  within  a  large  circumference  of  country,  for 
many  years  centered  in  itself  the  monetary  circulation  of  Radnorshire  and 
the  adjoining  counties,  and  was  productive  of  much  wealth  to  the  enter¬ 
prising  proprietor,  who  served  the  office  of  high  sheriff,  and  died  much 
respected.  Pen-y-bont  is  a  very  thriving  and  agreeable  village,  ornamented 
by  a  handsome  suspension  bridge.  On  the  e.  is  a  very  large  and  com¬ 
modious  new  inn  nearly  completed  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  called  the 

Severn  Arms  Hotel,”  to  the  s.  of  which  across  the  river,  the  residence  of 
the  Rev.  L.  P.  Jones,  rector  of  Llanbadarn-fawr,  embosomed  in  trees, 
forms  a  pleasing  object.  On  the  w.  of  the  bridge,  lies  Pen-y-bont  Hall, 
the  residence  of  J.  C.  Severn,  Esq.,  late  M.  P.  for  Fowey,  who  married 
the  only  daughter  of  Mr.  Price,  and  whose  grounds,  woods,  and  plantations 
are  seen  to  a  great  extent  from  the  hotel,  as  are  also  the  serrated  chain  of 
the  Llandegley  Rocks,  and  the  massive  rounder  outline  of  Radnor  forest. 
Six  m.  from  Pen-y-bont  is  Devanner  Park,  formerly  the  residence  of 
the  Fowler  family,  and  now  the  property  of  Mr.  Severn. 

To  Builth,  10  miles.  1  To  New  Radnor,  9  miles. 

Llandrindod,  3  miles.  | 


501 


PONT-AR-DULAS. 

From  Llanelly,  6  miles,  Malkin.  J  J'rom  Swansea,  9  miles.  Skrsne. 

PONT-AR-DULAS^  Carmarthenshire.  The  bridge  over  the  little  river 
Dulas,  which  here  joins  the  Lwcliwr^,  separates  the  counties  of  Carmarthen 
and  Glamorgan.  The  breadth  and  importance  of  the  larger  river  and  the 
engaging  character  of  the  scenery  with  the  lengthened  reach  of  the  vale 
down  to  Burry  river,  which  is  the  mouth  of  the  Lwchwr,  distinguished  by 
a  different  name,  render  this  house  a  desirable  place  for  strangers  to  stop  at, 
particularly  as  the  accommodations  are  good. 

The  road  to  the  1.  by  Newbridge,  Bryn-y-Maen,  and  Llannon,  through 
a  country  rather  rugged,  is  the  course  which  the  mail  takes  from  Gla¬ 
morganshire  to  Carmarthen.  The  situation  of  Llannon  is  elevated,  and 
the  view  from  the  churchyard  extensive ;  but  there  is  nothing,  says 
Mr.  Malkin,  in  this  extent  of  country  to  repay  the  labour  of  passing  over 
it.  Not  so  between  Pont-ar-dulas  and  Llandeilo-fawr.  To  Llan- 
dyhie  the  road,  for  the  most  part,  runs  on  high  ground,  and  is  traced  along 
the  ridge  of  a  hill,  overlooking  a  valley  on  each  side,  with  hanging  woods, 
cultivated  fields,  and  enclosures  thickly  planted.  Towards  the  n.e.,  the 
black  mountains  raise  their  heads  above  the  tops  of  the  fruitful  hills  which 
line  the  vale  of  Lwchwr.  After  passing  a  common,  come  down  upon 
the  upper  vale  of  Lwchwr,  and  overlook  a  great  part  of  the  rich  country 
towards  Llandeilo-fawr.  A  little  beyond,  the  Lwchwr  is  to  be  forded, 
which  is  here  a  slender  and  shallow  stream,  except  after  heavy  rain,  when 
it  is  rapid  and  dangerous.  The  village  of  Llandybie  is  far  from  mean. 
There  are  few  rides  more  various  and  pleasing  than  from  Llandybie  to 
Llandeilo-fawr.  The  traveller  must  not  be  diverted  from  exploring 
Castell-careg-cennin  ;  but  the  path  is  wild,  and  difficult  to  find  without  a 
guide.  [See  Llandeilo-fawr.] 

The  road  to  Llanelly  lies  principally  along  the  banks  of  the  Lwchwr, 
passing  Llangynch  on  the  r. 

To  Llandeilo-fawr,  14  miles.  Malkin.  |  To  Llanelly,  16  miles.  Skrine.  ♦ 


PONT  NEATH  VAUGHAN. 

From  Abergavenny,  18i  miles.  I  From  Neath,  12^  miles. 

Brecon,  18  miles.  1  Glyn  Neath,  or  Lamb  and  Flag,  2  miles.  | 

PONT  NEATH  VAUGHAN,  or  Pont  ar  Nedd  Fychan,  the  Bridge 
on  the  Lesser  Neath,”  is  a  collection  of  poor  cottages,  upon  the  s.  edge  of 
Brecknockshire,  in  the  parish  of  Ystradfellte,  and  hundred  of  Devynoc. 
There  are  8  fairs  held  annually  in  this  little  village  ;  i  e.  on  the  first  Sa¬ 
turdays  after  March  12^,  May  12.,  July  5.,  Aug.  26.,  Sept.  21.,  Nov. 
14. ;  and  a  small  weekly  market  for  butchers’  meat,  meal,  and  other  neces¬ 
saries  for  the  inhabitants.  It  contains  a  homely  public-house,  where  a 
guide  may  be  procured.  The  reader  should  be  informed  that  the  distance 
from  this  place  to  the  Bridgewater  Arms,  in  the  vale  of  TafF,  is  30  m. 
between  which  places  there  is  no  accommodation  ;  and  therefore,  a  long 

K  K  3 


502 


PONT  NEATH  VAUGHAN. 


day  witli  suitable  provisions  are  necessary  for  tlie  performance.  The  vil¬ 
lage  of  Pont  Neath  Vaughan  stands  at  the  head  of  the  valley^  at  the  con¬ 
fluence  of  five  rivers^  each  contributing  by  its  rocks,  woods,  and  waterfalls, 
to  the  aggregate  of  grandeur  and  magnificence  here  concentrated  in  one 
focus.  The  Nedd  is  the  principal  river  ;  its  double  head  is  mentioned 
by  Drayton.  One  branch  rises  at  the  distance  of  some  miles  due  n.  but 
the  Nedd  Fychan  branch  rises  far  to  the  n.  e.  upon  Mount  Denny,  and 
after  dividing  the  counties  of  Brecon  and  Glamorgan,  joins  its  sister  stream 
at  this  village.  The  other  tributaries  are  the  Mellte,  the  Hepste,  and 
Dringarth,  which  join  the  first  in  its  way  from  Ban  Gyhyj'ych  (a  moun¬ 
tain),  and  Maen  Llia  (a  large  stone),  and  fall  into  the  Perddyn,  which  here 
enters  the  Nedd  river.  At  this  place  are  some  considerable  coal-wmrks, 
belonging  to  Lord  Vernon  and  Mr.  Jones,  of  Pont-y-Pool.  In  some 
places  the  vein  is  9^  feet  perpendicular  measure.  The  entry  into  the 
mountain  is  made  by  levels  or  adits,  whence  the  coal  is  drawn  by  a  horse. 
The  cascades  in  every  direction  within  3  or  4  m.  of  this  place  are  so  nume¬ 
rous  that  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  visit  them  all.  Nedd,  Mellte,  Drin- 
gartli,  and  Perddyn,  have  each  of  them  one,  besides  a  wonderful  cavern 
through  which  the  Mellte  flows.  The  Hepste  forms  five.  Mr.  Malkin 
selected  those  of  the  Dringarth,  Hepste,  and  Mellte,  as  developing  the 
boldest  and  most  characteristic  features,  and  suiting  best  the  course  he 
meant  to  pursue.  In  order  to  explore  the  beauties  of  these  rivers,  he  ad¬ 
vises  that  the  Merthyr  Tydvil  road  be  followed  till  it  lead  to  a  grand  pass, 
forming  as  sublime  and  romantic  a  scene  as  can  be  conceived.  This  pass 
from  Pont  Neath  Vaughan  to  Merthyr,  is  called  Craig -y- Dinas,  from  its 
inaccessible  situation  ;  but  it  cannot  be  supposed  to  have  ever  been  a  military 
station.  The  summit  is  so  extremely  contracted  by  the  vale  of  Mellte,  and 
the  precipitous  rocks  on  the  banks  of  the  Sychryd,  that  there  is  no  room 
for  any  body  of  men.  In  the  course  of  time  the  rock  will  be  diminished 
much,  for  human  labour  is  continually  employed  in  excavating  it,  by 
which  a  considerable  quantity  of  limestone  is  procured,  and  a  vein  of 
most  excellent  fire-clay,  the  Argillum  Lucargillum,  nearly  20  ft.  in  thick¬ 
ness  has  been  discovered  here.  This  pass  forms,  with  the  Byrthin  and  its 
wildly  overgrown  banks,  and  concomitant  impending  cliffs,  and  woods,  one 
of  the  finest  scenes  in  Wales.  The  acclivity  on  the  1.  is  completely  clothed 
with  magnificent  timber,  contrasted  with  the  rougher  growth,  and  some¬ 
times  naked  pinnacles  of  the  opposing  ridge.  The  Brecon  road  above  it 
is  intercepted  by  the  wood  ;  while  the  front  is  occupied  by  an  immensely 
high,  abrupt,  and  rugged  crag,  nearly  perpendicular.  The  Merthyr  Tydvil 
road  here  makes  nearly  a  right  angle  with  that  of  Brecon,  over  the  hill ; 
but  the  visitor  of  the  cascades  has  to  climb  this  difficult  and  awful  rock. 
Having  reached  the  top  of  the  craig,  in  crossing  to  the  r.  you  look  down 
upon  a  dingle,  through  which  the  Mellte  river  flows,  and  opposite  you  have 
a  waterfall.  The  little  brook  Sychryd,  or  dry  ford,  which  falls  into  the 
united  streams  of  the  Mellte  and  Hepste  at  the  foot  of  Craig-y-Dinas,  here 
divides  the  counties  of  Brecon  and  Glamorgan.  It  is  impossible  to  resist 
the  temptation  of  a  short  walk  up  the  brook  on  the’ Glamorgan  side  to  take 
a  view  of  the  Bwa  Maen,  or  Bow  of  Stone.  Mr.  Warner,  wEo  first  de¬ 
scribed  this  scenery,  has  given  a  faithful  print  of  this  singular  phenomenon. 

This  rock,”  says  he,  "As  a  huge  mass  of  the  calcareous  kind,  taking  an 
excellent  polish,  and  when  burnt  is  good  lime.  It  consists  of  several  strata 
of  marble  in  the  rock  disposed  in  directions  most  whimsical  and  uncommon. 
The  rock,  which  protrudes  itself  from  the  parent  mountain,  presents  a  flat 
face  beautifully  variegated  and  ornamented  with  trees  and  shrubs.  The 


PONT  NEATPI  VAUGHAN. 


1)03 


form  of  Bwa  Maen  approaches  to  that  of  a  quarter  of  a  circle,  and  its 
various  strata,  preserve  the  direction  of  this  outline.  The  height  may  be  90 
or  100  ft.  and  the  breadth  70  or  80  ft.  The  curvature  k  formed  by  a  sweep 
made  in  the  strata  from  the  L  to  the  r. :  these  continue  their  circular  form 
till  they  reach  the  top  of  the  rock,  when  they  assume  a  different  one,  and 
drop  suddenly  to  the  earth  in  a  vertical  direction.  On  the  r.  of  the  curved 
strata  the  limestone  is  thrown  out  by  a  fault,  and  is  replaced  by  the  coal 
and  iron-stone  measures,  on  the  1.  also  the  rock  is  limestone.’'  The  inqui¬ 
sitive  spirit  of  Mr.  Warner  however,  did  not  penetrate  every  recess  in  this 
rock,  for  Mr.  Theoph.  Jones  says,  that  in  this  part  of  the  rock  is  a  large  and 
extensive  cavern,  called  by  the  inhabitants  Y-ffwrn,  ‘  the  Oven ;  ’  in  this 
the  sheep  and  goats  frequently  shelter.  The  rocky  bank  on  the  r.”  con¬ 
tinues  Mr.  Warner,  ascending  abruptly  from  the  brook,  is  clothed  with 
wood  from  the  top  to  the  bottom  :  on  the  1.  a  similar  elevation  appears 
more  rude  and  bare  than  its  opposite  neighbour,  exposing  a  flat  face  of 
stratified  rock,  crowned  with  a  noble  mantle  of  trees  ;  while  at  its  feet  a 
roaring  cataract  tumbles  from  fragment  to  fragment,  and  is  separated  from 
the  mighty  detached  mass  of  rock  called  Bwa  Maen.  From  the  circum¬ 
stance  of  a  rainy  season  arose  much  of  the  beauty  of  this  scenery  ;  the  tor¬ 
rents  \vhich  fell  during  the  night,  and  the  showers  which  poured  down 
during  the  morning,  had  given  a  character  of  fury  to  this  mountain  stream, 
of  which  it  is  entirely  divested  in  dry  weather.  Even  in  moderate  seasons 
the  brook  itself  disappears,  and  entering  into  a  hole  in  the  rock,  about  150 
yards  above  the  curved  strata,  it  becomes  invisible  for  about  ^  m.  and  then 
falls  from  another  aperture  into  the  Mellte,  a  little  below  Dinas  bridge. 
Leaving  this  sublime  scene,  we  ascended  the  steep  hill  on  the  r.  and  passed 
over  the  head  of  Bwa  Maen,  whence  we  had  a  singular  bird’s  eye  view  of 
the  thundering  torrent  and  the  rocky  glen  through  which  it  poured  its  im¬ 
petuous  waters.  Hence  we  again  scrambled  down  a  precipitous  declivity  to 
the  margin  of  the  same  brook  in  order  to  see  from  the  most  favourable  station, 
an  immense  perpendicular  limestone  rock  finely  spotted  with  vegetation, 
the  Sychryd  river  roaring  at  its  foot.  A  lofty  crag  is  detached  from  the 
precipice  called  Ystrol  Gwyddones,  or  the  Chair  of  the  Witch.”  At  the 
upper  end  of  the  common,  Mr.  Malkin  informs  us,  there  is  a  farm¬ 
house  above  the  Hepste,  whence  the  view  down  the  vale  of  Nedd  to  Swan¬ 
sea  and  the  Mumbles  is  very  grand  and  extensive.  Beyond  occurs  the 
confluence  of  the  Hepste  and  Mellte.  The  bed  of  the  former  is  of  im¬ 
mense  depth  immediately  below ;  and  the  two  streams  are  separated  by  a 
rich,  turfy,  well-wooded  promontory,  forming  a  frontispiece  to  the  view. 
Hence  look  up  the  course  of  the  united  rivers  ;  the  roaring  of  the  Hepste 
cascades  is  heard  at  a  considerable  distance,  as  they  are  approached  from 
the  upper  grounds.  On  arriving  at  the  edge  of  the  dingle,  the  great  fall 
bursts  at  once  upon  the  view  :  it  consists  of  one  broad  sheet  of  water  pro¬ 
jecting  over  an  abrupt  ledge  of  rock,  to  the  depth  of  50  ft.  The  distance 
of  this  cascade,  from  the  junction  of  the  two  dingles,  with  their  streams,  is 
less  than  ^  m.,  so  that  both  these  objects  can  be  embraced  at  once  from  the 
higher  ground.  The  descent,  by  which  to  examine  the  fall  more  minutely, 
is  down  a  rugged  and  steep  rock,  which  forms  the  boldest  feature  in  the 
dingle  at  the  bottom,  but  affords  a  very  abrupt  and  hazardous  passage. 
The  road  afterwards,  strange  as.it  may  seem,  lies  behind,  or  under  the  cas¬ 
cade  ;  for  such  is  the  rapidity  of  the  torrent,  that  the  interwoven  sheet  is 
thrown  out  so  far  as  to  leave  a  clear  passage,  at  all  times  wide  enough  for 
a  horse-path  between  the  falling  river  and  the  rock.  This  path  is  formed 

K  K  4 


504 


PONT  NEATH  VAUGHAN. 


by  a  rude  natural  ledge  of  half  worn  stone^  covered  with  nioss_,  at  about 
one  third  of  the  height  from  the  bottom  of  the  precipice.  Its  breadth  is 
about  3  ft.j  and  constitutes  the  only  projection  upon  the  surface.  The 
stone^  however^  shelves  a  little  inwards  from  the  topmost  edge_,  and  the 
water  is  so  projected  forwards,  that  the  two  elements  unite  in  forming  a 
roof  or  canopy  over  the  head  of  the  passenger.  Mr.  Warner  says,  he  sought 
a  shelter  under  this  river  from  a  shower  of  rain.  The  effect  of  sunshine 
on  a  fine  day  is  both  grand  and  beautiful.  After  passing  this  cascade  and 
skirting  the  side  of  the  dingle  for  a  few  steps,  in  front  of  the  majestic  rock 
before  de  cended,  the  tourist  comes  upon  another  cataract,  and  a  large  ca¬ 
vern  under  the  opposite  bank  close  by.  Three  more  follow  in  immediate 
succession,  and  all  four  within  an  eighth  part  of  a  mile  from  the  first.  The 
most  considerable  of  these  is  about  25  ft.  in  height,  and  the  smallest  about 
10.  The  latter  is  the  largest.  These  four  are  all  seen  at  once;  but  owing 
to  a  bend  of  the  river,  the  great  cascade,  though  so  near,  is  not  seen  even 
from  the  first  of  these.  The  whole  of  this  dingle  is  profusely  overgrown 
with  wood  of  various  kinds.  From  the  last  of  these  falls,  the  scarcely 
discernible  path  winds  round  the  front  of  that  promontory,  which  separates 
the  two  dingles  and  their  rivers.  The  country  people  drive  cattle  this  way  and 
under  the  Hepste  cascade,  when  they  have  occasion  to  pass  from  the  Mellte  to 
then,  side  of  the  Hepste.  Having  gained  the  high  ground,  and  passed  two 
or  three  stony  and  unproductive  fields,  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  not  to  be 
descended,  discloses  the  great  fall  of  the  Mellte,  which  is  broader  than  that 
of  the  Hepste,  and  70  ft.  high  ;  it  differs  from  the  other  in  character;  it 
projects  as  suddenly,  and  carries  a  larger  volume  of  water  with  more  vio¬ 
lence.  It  is  consequently  more  awful  and  tremendous,  but  unaccompanied 
by  those  circumstances  of  variety  and  beauty  which  adorn  and  enliven  its 
rival.  The  cascade  is  inaccessible  from  below.  The  great  curiosity  of  this 
river,  singularly  and  sublimely  characterised  in  the  catalogue  of  British 
scenery,  is  a  stupendous  cavern  called  Porth-yr-ogof,  between  the  cascade 
and  y stradfellte,  through  the  dark  hollow  of  which  the  Mellte  runs  for  a 
space  of  I  m.  The  descent  from  the  upper  land  to  the  bed  of  the  river  is 
by  no  means  difficult,  nor  does  it  at  the  first  view  present  any  thing  beyond 
a  quiet  rural  landscape  ;  but  as  the  guide  wound  cautiously  to  thel.  rather 
in  a  retrograde  direction,  we  suddenly  found  ourselves  at  the  mouth  of  the 
cavern,  the  opening  of  which  is  about  43  ft.  wide,  and  19  ft. high.  Through 
this  the  Mellte  river  rolls  in  a  sinuous  course,  wearing  its  channel  through 
the  rock,  deeply  perforated  into  fathomless  pools,  whence  it  issues  into  day¬ 
light,  after  a  subterraneous  passage  of  at  least  800  yards.  There  is  a  prac¬ 
ticable  passage  through  it ;  but  the  attempt  would  be  imprudent.  It  is 
necessary  to  carry  lights ;  and  if  they  should  be  extinguished  by  the  damp 
vapour,  the  difficulty  and  danger  would  become  very  great.  My  guide 
had  been  through  several  times,  and  was  ready  to  undertake  it  again.  lUe 
penetrated  about  a  hundred  yards,  as  far  as  the  glimmering  of  day  from 
the  mouth  directed  us  ;  and  this  specimen  of  Stygian  horror  was  amply 
sufficient  to  satisfy  all  rational  curiosity.  There  is  a  passage  to  the  r. 
through  which  also  it  is  necessary  to  take  lights,  which,  having  pursued  for 
a  short  space,  we  arrive  at  a  very  considerable  area,  excavated  to  a  great 
height,  and  partially  illuminated  by  an  aperture  at  the  top.  The  effect  is 
most  striking,  and  stupendous.  On  quitting  the  cavern,  the  Mellte,  finding 
its  way  into  it  through  deep  and  narrow  gullets,  worn  between  the  rocks, 
is  crossed  at  the  entrance,  when  a  regular  and  beaten  path  winds  gradually 
and  pleasingly  along  the  w.  bank,  with  the  little  village  of  Ystradfellte,  in 
the  distance,  and  green  meadows  delightfully  quiet  and  rural,  in  the  fore- 


PONT  NEATH  VAUGHAN. 


505 


ground.  The  village  consists  of  a  few  miserable  cottages,  most  of  them 
ruinous,  and  inhabited  by  a  ragged  and  barefooted  peasantry.  There  are 
several  other  fine  cataracts  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Fish  directly  under 
the  various  falls.  There  is  abundance  of  trout,  &c.  in  this  wild  but  hos¬ 
pitable  neighbourhood.  The  spring  of  the  year  affords  the  most  diversion, 
as  in  dry  summers  the  rapid  streams  become  very  shallow.  At  such  times 
a  bottom  of  single  stallion’s  hair,  a  very  fine  light  hook,  and  a  tough  brand¬ 
ling  thrown  out  like  the  artificial  fly,  will  be  very  successful.  Artificial 
flies — the  blue,  the  red,  and  the  brown, — the  oil  fly,  and  the  sky 
blue.” 

The  road  hence  to  Brecon,  leads  over  mountains,  most  dreary,  wild,  and 
desolate,  till  within  the  distance  of  3  or  4  m.  The  hills  are  covered  with 
unvaried  turf,  affording  excellent  sheep-walks,  but  rising  one  above  the 
other,  without  a  single  twig  to  relieve  the  wearied  eye.  The  only  object  of 
interest  is  another  fall  of  the  Mellte,  about  2  m,  n.  of  the  Ystradfellte. 
The  angular  direction  in  which  the  river  projects  is  wild  and  romantic.  It 
is  now  at  no  great  distance  from  its  source,  and  very  shallow,  rippling  over 
loose  fragments  of  rock  ;  but  unaccompanied  with  wood,  or  any  other  pic¬ 
turesque  details.  After  this  the  road  and  prospect  became  toilsome  and 
unsightly,  till,  on  crossing  the  w.  side  of  the  Beacons,  at  a  considerable 
height,  but  through  a  cleft,  with  lofty  ridges  on  each  side,  the  flat  country 
of  Brecknockshire  towards  the  n.  with  part  of  Radnorshire,  extensive,  fruit¬ 
ful,  and  improved,  is  unfolded.  Proceeding  from  Pont  Neath  Vaughan, 
upwards,  against  the  course  of  the  Neath,  the  Perddyn  falls  into  that  river 
from  the  w.  In  a  walk  from  the  village,  Mr.  W arner  discovered  on  each 
side  of  the  river,  several  mounds  of  earth  and  stones,  some  of  them  2  or  3 
yards  long,  others  4  or  5,  and  one  yard  high,  placed  at  equal  distances  and 
in  parallel  lines,  probably  the  remains  of  mineral  works.  In  proceeding 
further  he  reached  a  black  precipice  in  the  shape  of  an  amphitheatre.  The 
r.  side  of  this  chasm  is  fringed  with  the  mountain  ash,  willow,  &c.,  while  on 
the  1.  is  presented  a  face  of  naked  rock.  In  the  centre,  the  river  rushes 
through  a  narrow  gloomy  glen,  and  falls  from  an  elevation  of  70  or  80  ft. 
in  one  grand  unbroken  sheet  of  water,  an  oak  throwing  its  wavy  head  over 
the  stream  at  the  point  whence  the  water  is  precipitated  down  the  face  of 
the  rock.  This  cataract  is  called  Ysgwd- Einon-Gam. 

Sir  Herbert  Mackworth  was  formerly  proprietor  of  this  district.  He 
admired  this  waterfall  exceedingly,  and  had  formed  a  road  to  it.  On  pass¬ 
ing  along  it  a  thorn  stuck  into  his  finger,  inflammation  and  mortification 
succeeded,  which  put  an  end  to  his  life  in  a  few  days. 

Just  below  the  junction  of  the  Perddyn  and  the  Nedd,  is  another  water¬ 
fall,  called  Ysgwd  Gwlndis.  After  the  junction  of  the  Perddyn,  the  Neath 
enters  Glamorganshire,  and  runs  first  s.  and  then  w.  About  2  m.  above 
the  union  of  these  streams  near  a  bridge  called  Pont-Rhyd-y-Cnau,  or  Nut- 
ford  Bridge,  to  which  we  descend  by  declivities,  upon  the  n.  bank  of  the 
Nedd  river  is  a  remarkable  rock,  which  seems  to  have  separated  from  the 
contiguous  mountain.  It  is  called  Drugarn,  Drwyddgarn,  or  the  Druid’s 
Rock.  This,  and  several  other  romantic  dells  in  the  vale  of  Ystradgynlais, 
has  never  been  explored  by  travellers.  Penderyn,  or  Pen-y-Daren,  is  a 
parish  town  in  an  isolated  situation  upon  the  very  summit  of  a  rock,  high 
and  exposed,  about  2  m.  e.  of  Pont  Neath  Vaughan.  At  the  w.  end  of  the 
church  is  a  clumsy  tower  with  two  bells  ;  Rev.  C.  Mayberry,  rector.  Hir^ 
waun  Wrgan,  where  the  battle  was  fought  between  lestyn  ap  Gwrgan  and 
Rhys  apTewdwr,  in  which  the  latter  was  defeated,  is  situated  within  this 
parish.  Almost  the  whole  district  of  Penderyn  bears  memorials  of  this  con- 


506 


PONT-Y-MYNACH. 


flict.  Bodgwigiad,  anciently  B6d-waun-y-gad_,  the  Mansion  of  the  Field 
of  Battle ;  ”  a  hill  also  runs  across  the  parish,  called  Cefn  Cadlan, 
studded  with  carneddau.  Of  these  one  is  12  or  14  yards  round,  having  a 
fosse  or  ditch  about  it ;  the  other  is  above  30  yards  in  circumference,  and  9 
ft.  high.  There  are  also  at  least  40  or  50  smaller  heaps  of  stones  in  the 
fields  adjoining  the  hill ;  but,”  says  the  historian  of  Breconshire,  ^‘let  the 
traveller  be  cautious  how  he  decides  ;  for  he  who  is  not  very  profoundly 
versed  in  antiquarian  lore,  and,  of  course,  armed  with  infallibility,  may 
mistake  an  old  sheep-fold,  the  site  of  a  camp,  or  the  agger  formed  by  the 
industry  of  a  farmer  in  clearing  his  ground,  for  a  funeral  barrow.^’  The 
value  of  lands  in  this  neighbourhood  has  been  considerably  enhanced  by  the 
population  brought  by  the  Hiruoaun  Iron  Wo7'ks.  A  furnace  was  constructed 
in  1758,  by  Messrs.  Mayberry  and  Wilkins,  for  smelting  iron  ore.  The 
forges  and  rolling-mill  have  been  erected  by  the  present  proprietors, 
Messrs.  Bouzer,  Overton,  and  Oliver,  who  have  made  various  improvements  ; 
as  an  additional  furnace,  a  powerful  steam-engine,  and  fineries,  capable  of 
manufacturing  100  tons  of  bar-iron  or  more  per  week.  The  iron  is  con¬ 
veyed  along  tramroads  to  the  head  of  the  Neath  canal,  thence  in  barges  to 
Neath,  and  there  shipped.  A  new  turnpike-road  has  been  made  through 
the  Vale  of  Aberdare,  to  unite  the  Neath  and  Cardiff  road.  Another 
branch  joins  the  road  from  Brecon  to  Merthyr,  about  5  m.  from  the  former 
place,  forming  a  communication  between  Swansea  and  Brecon,  nearly 
7  m.  shorter  than  through  Merthyr. 

To  Neath  the  towing  path  along  the  canal  affords  a  very  agreeable 
walk,  enlivened  by  a  change  of  fields,  woods,  and  rising  hills.  Through 
this  glen  likewise  runs  the  river  Nedd,  which  in  rainy  seasons  is  a  furious 
torrent.  At  the  distance  of  6  m.  the  canal  is  conducted  across  the  river  by 
an  aqueduct  of  5  arches.  In  this  space  it  descends  through  14  locks. 
Proceeding  2  m.  the  glen  suddenly  narrows,  so  as  to  leave  room  only  for 
the  canal,  river,  and  road.  The  glen,  presently  opening,  displays  a  fine 
view  towards  Neath.  Within  5  m.  of  Neath,  see  the  Fall  of  the  Clydach, 
at  Melincwrt.  A  fine  sketch  is  given  of  it  by  Laporte  in  Malkin’s 
work. 


To  Neath,  12^  miles. 
Brecon,  11  miles. 


To  Merthyr  Tydvil,  by  way  of  Aberdare,  13  miles. 


PONT-Y-MYNACH. 


From  Tregaron,  18  miles.' 

Havod,  4  miles.  Malkin  ;  Warner’s  1st  and 
2d  walks ;  Lipscomb. 


From  Aberystwith,  Hi  miles,  Skrine  ;  Aikin  ; 
Evans  ;  Barber. 

Strata  Florida,  10  miles.  Wyndham. 


PONT-Y-MYNACH,  or  Pont-ar-Fynach,  vulgarly  called  the  Devil’s 
Bridge,  Cardiganshire,  consists  of  a  single  arch  between  20  and  SO  ft.  in 
the  chord,  thrown  over  another  of  less  span  than  20  ft.,  beneath  wdiich 
is  a  dark  and  tremendous  chasm.  The  lower  arch  is  said  to  have  been 
thrown  across  by  the  monks  of  Ystrad-^flur,  or  Strata  Florida  Abbey, 
about  the  year  1087;  but  as  that  institution  w’as  not  founded  till  ll64,  this 
must  be  an  anachronism.  The  present  bridge  was  erected  in  1753,  at  the 
expense  of  the  county.  The  iron  balustrades  wmre  added  by  Mr.  Johnes, 
in  1814.  'When  Mr.  Hutton  visited  this  place  in  1787,  he  descended  the 
bank  and  reached  the  under  bridge,  about  6  ft.  below  the  upper.  A  first 
descent  may  be  made  to  the  r.,  after  passing  the  bridge  from  the  Havod 


rONT-Y-MYNACH. 


507 

Arms  to  the  bottom  of  the  aperture^  through  which  the  impetuous  Mynach 
urges  its  furious  course.  The  depth  from  the  present  bridge  to  the  bed  of 
the  river  is  114  ft.  On  regaining  the  road^  the  second  descent  lies  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  yards  on  the  other  side  of  the  bridge^  where  may  be 
viewed  the  four  concatenated  falls  of  the  Mynach,  from  the  point  of  a  rock 
in  front.  This  truly  Acherontic  stream^  which  forces  itself  through  masses 
of  opposing  rocks^  tearing  deep  cavities  for  the  deposition  of  its  unfathom¬ 
able  waters,  and  thickening  the  misty  gloom  of  a  recess  impervious  to 
sunshine,  is  equalled  only  by  the  cataract  of  Narni.  The  first  fall  occurs 
about  50  yards  below  the  bridge.  The  river  is  here  confined  to  a  narrow 
channel  by  lofty  precipitous  rocks  ;  and  from  the  deep  inclination  of  its 
bed,  is  thrown  with  great  violence  over  a  rock  about  20  ft.  in  height,  into 
a  black  pool  beneath.  Scarcely  has  the  water  been  forced  from  this  foaming 
receptacle,  when  it  is  projected  from  another  precipice  of  not  less  than 
60  ft.  into  a  similar  reservoir  :  from  this  it  hurries  to  a  third  fall  of  20  ft., 
and  shortly  after,  is  precipitated  in  an  unbroken  cataract  full  100  ft.  in 
perpendicular  height.  From  this  spot,  with  the  assistance  of  a  guide, 
from  the  contiguous  inn,  may  be  visited  the  Fall  of  the  Rheidol,  the 
approach  to  which  is  difficult,  and  entirely  impracticable  during  heavy 
rains.  This  is  generally  considered  the  finest  portion  of  this  scenery. 
The  basin  into  which  this  cataract  falls  is  agitated  like  a  sea  by  the 
violence  of  the  shock  ;  the  rocks  which  lie  across  the  channel  are  enormous  ; 
the  hue  of  the  waters  dark ;  the  hills  aspire  to  the  clouds  ;  and  the  foam 
and  roar  of  the  torrent  adds  to  the  gloom  profound.  Opposite  this  stu¬ 
pendous  object,  upon  a  precipice  of  forests,  at  the  height  of  upwards  of 
150  yards,  stands  the  Havod  Arms  Inn.  From  the  ordinary  station  it  is 
seen  with  considerable  effect,  in  four  separate  cascades.  The  perpendicular 
descent  of  this  cataract  is  not  less  than  210  ft.  1  have  seen,"  says 
l\Ir.  Barber,  waterfalls  more  picturesquely  grand  than  the  cataract  of  the 
Mynach  ;  but  none  more  awfully  so,  not  even  excepting  the  celebrated 
falls  of  Lodore  and  Scaleforce,  in  Cumberland.”  The  cascades  on  the 
two  rivers  are  not  within  sight  of  each  other ;  nor  is  Pont-y-Mynach  seen 
from  the  falls.  After  repassing  the  bridge,  a  fourth  descent  may  be  made 
at  the  side  of  the  Mynach  falls,  to  the  Robber’s  Cave,  at  the  jet  of  the 
lowest  fall.  Nothing  extraordinary  attaches  to  it  except  an  uncommon 
tradition.  About  the  middle  of  the  15th  century,  it  was  inhabited  by  two 
men  and  a  woman  known  by  the  epithet  ‘‘  Plant  Matt,”  or  Matthew^s 
children.  The  father  kept  a  public  house  at  Tregaron.  These  persons 
were  notorious  robbers.  The  entrance  to  the  cave  admitting  but  one  at 
a  time,  they  were  able  to  defend  it  against  hundreds.  Here  they  lived 
several  years,  but  at  length  being  found  guilty  of  committing  murder,  they 
were  taken  and  executed.  The  four  cascades,  taken  thus  in  detail,  impress 
the  mind  more  strongly  than  before  with  the  gigantic  measurement  of 
their  proportions,  because  here  the  unfathomed  pools  between  each  are 
obvious  to  the  eye.  The  second  fall  of  (iO  ft.  is  extremely  grand.  From  a 
bow-window  of  the  principal  room  at  the  Havod  Arms,  the  scene  is  in¬ 
expressibly  fine.  All  the  principal  features  of  the  junction  of  the  llheidol 
and  Mynach  may  be  seen  at  one  view  ;  the  cataracts  of  the  former  are  in 
front.  A  descent  to  the  falls  of  the  latter  may  be  made  by  winding 
behind  the  house  almost  as  far  as  a  spot  called  Llyn  Fate’s  Cave,  a  tra¬ 
ditional  personage  said  to  have  followed  the  vocation  of  Plant  Matt,  and 
to  have  made  this  a  retreat  from  the  pursuit  of  justice.  The  Havod 
Arms  is  a  posting  house.  One  wonder  yet  remains,  —  The  Parsons  Bridge, 
- — a  scene  both  sublime  and  horrible.  It  is  on  the  llheidol,  but  further  up. 


508 


PONT-Y-MYNACH. 


There  are  two  ways  to  it,  either  through  Yshytty  Cenfaen  churchyard,  or 
by  climbing  the  precipice  from  the  foot  of  the  Rheidol,  and  descending  at 
the  place  upon  the  opposite  side,  whence  alone  it  can  be  sketched.  It  is  so 
called  from  being  the  common  footway  for  the  villagers  to  Yspytty  Church, 
Mr.  Newell  has  given  an  excellent  print  of  this  scene.  His  station  was 
below  the  bridge,  so  far  behind  the  ridgy  rock  upon  which  the  bridge  rests, 
as  to  disclose  three  jets  of  the  river  above.  Move  till  you  lose  sight  of 
the  post,  at  the  right  end  of  the  bridge.  (^Scenery  of  Wales,  p.  86.) 

From  the  Havod  Arms,  Mr.  Lipscomb  made  an  excursion  to  Plin- 
LiMMON.  The  essential  parts  of  his  narrative  are  contained  in  the  following 
description.  Having  ascended  from  the  summit  of  the  hills  opposite  Pont- 
y-Mynach,  passed  to  a  higher  point,  entered  upon  a  road  enclosed  between 
two  hedges.  Passed  Yyshytty  Cenfaen,  where  the  church  seemed  to  be 
without  bells ;  a  large  unhewn  stone,  about  7  ft.  high,  stood  on  the  n.  side 
of  the  yard.  Ascended  the  side  of  the  mountains,  with  here  and  there  a 
farm  or  cottage.  The  Rheidol  winds  on  the  1.,  among  boggy  ground. 
Crossed  the  Castell  which  unites  with  the  Rheidol  below.  Here  saw  a 
cottage  entirely  formed  of  turf,  the  door  was  of  wicker-work.  It  ap¬ 
peared  the  common  habitation  of  the  peasant’s  family,  including  his  ducks, 
dogs,  and  fowls.  Ascending  the  steep  side  of  another  mountain,  came  to 
the  banks  of  the  river  Duliw,  which  runs  in  a  contrary  direction  to  the 
Rheidol,  and  separates  the  county  of  Cardigan  from  that  of  Montgomery. 
This  spot,  though  elevated  high  above  the  tops  of  the  neighbouring 
mountains,  is  called  the  foot  of  Plinlimmon.  Mr.  Lipscomb  expected  to 
have  here  obtained  a  guide  at  a  cottage  near  this  stream,  but  he  found  only 
five  children  at  home,  not  one  of  whom  could  speak  English.  Con¬ 
templating  therefore  the  danger  of  passing  this  boggy  mountain  without  a 
guide,  he  turned  his  steps  back  to  the  Havod  Arms.  But,  after  proceeding 
about  a  mile,  he  met  a  shepherd  with  whom  he  engaged  to  attend  him  to 
the  summit.  In  less  than  an  hour,  they  arrived  at  the  basis  of  the  cone 
which  forms  the  cap  of  Plinlimmon,  noticing  by  the  way  the  birthplaces  of 
the  Severn  or  Havren,  the  Wye  and  Rheidol,  The  surface  of  the  lower 
part  of  the  mountain  is  covered  with  mossy  turf  and  heath,  broken  by 
extensive  bogs ;  he  then  reached  a  district  overspread  with  stones,  which 
rendered  the  ascent  difficult.  The  summit  was,  however,  soon  attained, 
but  it  was  enveloped  in  an  impenetrable  thick  fog.  A  rude  pyramid  of 
loose  stones  has  been  formed  at  the  e.  end  of  the  peak.  Our  traveller 
therefore  returned  with  the  shepherd  to  his  hut,  which  presented  a  me¬ 
lancholy  specimen  of  poverty,  dirtiness,  and  indolence.  There  appeared 
not  one  single  comfort,  scarcely  a  pane  of  glass  in  a  small  window,  and  not 
a  chair  to  sit  upon.  Even  the  fire  of  turf  produced  almost  suffocation. 
And  yet  this  man  had  a  hundred  sheep  upon  the  mountains,  and  paid  no 
rent. 

The  road  to  Havod  lies  upon  the  steep  bank  of  the  Mynach,  com¬ 
manding  a  fine  view  of  the  glen  and  its  romantic  bridge.  Then  ascending 
the  Cwmystwith  hill,  from  its  summit  is  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  whole 
range  of  the  N.  Wallian  mountains,  stretching  from  the  English  counties 
to  the  great  bay  of  Cardigan.  A  parting  view  of  the  Mynach’s  glen  may 
now  be  taken,  and  a  descent  made  to  the  vale  of  Ystwith,  when  some  stone 
walls  and  plantations  announce  the  approach  to  Havod.  Pass  a  common 
gate  with  an  ordinary  cottage  lodge,  by  degrees  a  scene  of  sylvan  beauty 
opens  in  the  descent,  which,  after  traversing  a  barren  mountain,  is  invested 
with  the  effect  of  enchantment.  Both  sides  of  the  mountains  which  bound 
the  crystalline  Ystwith  are  covered  from  top  to  bottom  with  plantations  of 


PONT-Y-MYNACH. 


509 


luxuriant  oak_,  intermixed  with  birch  and  ash.  Passing  through  some 
arable  land,  a  handsome  park-gate  with  a  lodge,  ushers  the  visitor  to  a 
view  of  the  church,  proudly  elevated  among  trees  on  the  r.  A  thick 
wood  is  now  entered,  producing  all  the  obscurity  of  sylvan  shades.  Far 
below  rolls  the  Ystwith  ;  the  scene  begins  to  open ;  and  a  turn  to  the  r. 
leads  to  a  sight  of  the  mansion,  accompanied  with  unrivalled  appendages 
of  beauty.  Tickets  for  visiting  the  grounds  at  Havod  are  usually  granted 
at  the  inn  at  Pont-y-Mynach  ;  but  during  the  progress  of  the  present  im¬ 
provements,  admission  is  not  attainable.  [See  Havod,  388.] 

To  Aberystwith  Mr.  Malkin  turned  off  to  the  r.  from  the  great  road, 
and  after  winding  down  one  of  the  vast  dingles  into  the  vale  of  Rheidol,  a 
narrow  foot  bridge  conveyed  him  across  the  river,  just  below  a  cascade. 
After  a  varied  and  interesting  walk,  a  bold  fall  of  the  river  of  considerable 
height  occurs,  to  which  an  adjoining  mill  gives  additional  character. 
Passing  near  Fronfraith  House,  the  seat  of  Sir  Thomas  Bonsai,  is  the 
village  of  Llaribadarn-fawr,  once  a  bishop’s  see,  founded  by  St.  Padern  the 
Great.  In  the  time  of  Giraldus  there  was  an  abbey,  the  existence  of  which 
may  still  be  traced  in  the  form  and  architecture  of  the  present  parish 
church,  which  retains  many  indications  of  great  antiquity.  It  is  large  and 
built  as  a  cross,  with  a  nave  and  chancel,  in  the  oldest  Gothic  style.  Llan- 
badarn-fawr,  then  a  city,  was  destroyed  by  the  Danes  in  the  year  9^7^  in 
the  reign  of  Meredydd  ap  Owain. 

The  turnpike-road  to  Aberystwith  lies  over  a  ridge  of  hills, Exhibiting 
a  general  view  of  the  vale.  Except  the  village  of  Eskynald,  there  is 
little  appearance  of  an  inhabited  country.  About  3  m.  from  Aberystwith 
appears  a  fine  sea  view,  including  the  mountain  of  Cader  Idris,  and  the 
abrupt  summits  of  the  Merionethshire  hills.  A  bridge  of  four  arches  is 
seen  over  the  Rheidol,  at  about  a  mile  from  its  influx  into  the  sea,  and  not 
far  from  it  is  Plds-grug.  Upon  the  nearer  side  of  the  river  is  Llan- 
badarn-fawr,  with  its  ancient  church,  formerly  a  cathedral. 

To  Machynlleth  Mr.  Warner  engaged  a  guide,  and  pursuing  a  bridle 
road  to  the  1.,  descended  to  a  hamlet  called  Pont  Erwyd,  or  Wide  Bridge, 
over  the  river  Rheidol.  At  the  distance  of  10  m.  from  Pont-y-Mynach, 
he  passed  the  foot  of  Plinlimmon  by  the  side  of  two  large  lead  mines  and 
one  of  copper.  On  climbing  a  steep  hill,  the  head  of  Cader  Idris  and  the 
summit  of  Snowdon  become  visible,  wdth  their  thousand  subject  hills. 
Afterwards,  a  boggy  bottom  continued  within  3  m.  of  Machynlleth,  where 
a  rugged  carriage  road  leads  to  the  town. 

To  Llanidloes  cross  Pont-y-Mynach,  and  for  some  time  follow  the 
course  of  the  Rheidol  on  the  1.  Pass  through  the  village  of  Ysbytty  Cenfaen, 
a  chapel  of  ease  to  Llanhadarn-fawr,  and  a  perpetual  curacy  in  the  gift  of 
the  landholders.  This  sacred  edifice  consists  simply  of  a  nave.  There  is 
a  monument  of  black  marble  to  the  memory  of  Thomas  Hughes,  of  Tyn-y- 
Llywn.  In  the  yard  are  four  large  stones,  forming  the  segment  of  a  circle. 
The  largest  measures  11  ft.  above  ground,  5  ft.  6  in.  broad,  and  about 
2  ft.  thick.  Two  of  the  others  form  gate-posts.  These  are  probably  part 
of  a  Druidic  circle,  the  it;st  of  which  were  broken  to  form  the  chapel. 
The  name  Ysbytty  was  given  in  consequence  of  being  one  of  the  ancient 
hospitia  of  the  monks  of  Strata  Florida  Abbey ;  and  Cenfaen,  i.  e.  Stone 
Ridge,  may  allude  to  these  ancient  pillars.  Near  the  3d  mile  pass  a  house 
called  Pen-rhiw  Goch.  The  road  then  winds  into  Cwm  Ergyr,  crossing  the 
Dyfryn  Castell  at  its  entrance,  for  nearly  4  m.  While  in  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood  of  Pont-y-Mynach,  the  curious  traveller  should  make  an  ex¬ 
cursion  to  Pont  Erwyd,  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Castell  and  Rheidol, 


510 


PONT-Y-POOL. 


in  a  deep  and  narrow  dingle,  lying  a  little  to  the  1.  of  Yshytty  Cenfaen,  at 
the  distance  of  about  4  m.  This  dingle  possesses  more  wildness  than  the 
scenery  about  Pont-y-Mynach,  without  its  rich  and  varied  beauties.  A 
rude  bridge  is  thrown  from  rock  to  rock  over  a  chasm,  though  different  in 
form,  scarcely  less  repulsive  in  its  aspect  than  that  under  Pont-y-Mynach. 
Mr.  Charles  Long,  of  the  Treasury,  leaped  over  this  fissure,  and  cleared  it 
in  perfect  safety.  Wind  round  the  foot  of  Plinlim3ion-fawr.  In 
proceeding,  hills  beyond  hills  appear  in  endless  succession.  About  the 
7th  m.  enter  Montgomeryshire,  at  Stedfa-gurig,  where  a  guide  may  be 
generally  but  not  always  procured  to  Plinlimmon,  distant  about  3  m.,  over 
a  small  brook;  then  following  the  Wye,  which  rises  far  distant,  proceed 
through  a  continuation  of  alpine  scenery  to  Llangurig,  where  the  vale  of 
the  Wye  begins  to  expand.  This  place  offers  no  accommodation  to  the 
traveller.  The  tower  of  the  church  is  ancient ;  its  font  is  remarkable  for 
tracery  and  elegance.  The  rest  of  the  interior  presents  a  mixture  of 
meanness  and  negligence ;  yet  this  is  the  mother  of  seven  other  churches, 
and  the  parish  is  20  m.  in  extent.  The  patron  saint  is  Curig  Lwyd,  whose 
crosier  was  preserved  in  the  neighbouring  church  of  St.  Harmon’s,  in  the 
time  of  Giraldus  Cambrensis.  In  advancing  to  Llanidloes,  the  soil  is  better 
than  that  which  is  remote.  Native  woods  of  oak  and  birch,  fine  fields  of 
oats,  rye,  and  barley,  occur.  The  vale  leading  to  Llanidloes  contains 
many  charming  spots.  The  flannel  manufactory  occupies  in  this  country 
an  abundance  of  hands. 

Back  to  Aberystwith,  1  li  m.  Aikin  ;  Newell.  |  To  Llanbadarn-fawr,  12  miles.  Wyndhara. 

To  Havod,  4  miles.  Barber;  Evans;  Skrine.  1  Llanidloes,  31  miles. 

Aberystwith,  Hi  miles.  Malkin;  Warner’s  2d  1  Bhaiadyr,  18  miles, 
walk ;  Lipscornb. 

Machynlleth,  20  miles.  Warner.  Over  Plin¬ 
limmon,  17  miles. 


PONT-Y-POOL. 


.  From  Newport,  Mon.,  9  miles.  Wyndbam. 


From  Caerphilly  Castle,  through  Newport,  22  m. 
Skrine. 


PONT-Y-POOL,  near  Usk,  in  Monmouthshire,  is  an  irregularly  built 
town  on  one  side  of  a  steep  hill,  overhanging  the  Avon  Llwyd,  or  Torfaen 
river ;  which,  though  usually  but  a  rivulet,  in  times  of  heavy  rains  swells 
into  a  torrent.  This  stream  originates  in  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  Mynydd 
Maen,  flows  by  this  place,  passes  under  the  canal,  and  joins  the  river  Usk 
in  the  valley  beneath,  on  the  slope  of  a  declivity,  under  impending  hills.  It 
is  the  principal  mart  for  the  inhabitants  of  the  mountains,  and  its  market 
on  Saturday  is  well  supplied.  Inn,  —  The  Red  Lion,  where  a  chaise  and 
good  horses  are  kept.  The  name  of  Pont-y-Pool  is  modern,  supposed  to 
be  derived  from  a  bridge  thrown  over  a  large  reservoir,  which  supplies  water 
for  a  forge  ;  but  is  really  a  corruption  of  Pont-ap-Howell,”  or  Howell’s 
Bridge.  The  place  in  its  appearance  is  disordesed  and  straggling,  contain¬ 
ing,  in  1831,  10,280  inhabitants.  Several  neat  habitations  and  numerous 
shops,  present  an  appearance  of  thriving  prosperity.  The  London  Mail  is 
conveyed  to  Pont-y-Pool,  from  the  post-office  at  Newport  by  a  postman 
every  day,  arrives  at  9  A.ai.  and  returns  at  2  p.3i.  This  place  arose  from 
the  small  village  of  Trefddun  or  Treveddin,  and  owes  its  increase  to  the 
neighbouring  iron  works  established  by  the  Hanbiiry  family  ;  but  it  has 
been  chiefly  noted  for  the  japan  manufactory  called  Pont-y-Pool  ware,  the 


PONT-Y-POOL. 


511 


invention  of  Thomas  Allgood  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.,  and  gradually 
perfected  by  his  descendants.  This  trade  has  declined  exceedingly  since 
the  improvements  of  Baskerville  and  Taylor,  of  Birmingham,  who  at  one 
period  nearly  monopolised  this  branch  of  traffic.  The  Hanburys  formerly 
occupied  Hanbury  Hall,  in  Worcestershire.  Capel  Hanhury,  a  branch  of 
this  family,  purchased  an  estate  at  Pont-y-Pool,  and  first  founded  the  iron¬ 
works.  He  possessed  landed  property  in  the  parish  of  Kidderminster, 
Worcestershire,  where  he  and  his  family  resided.  He  died  in  1704,  aged 
79j>  and  was  buried  in  Kidderminster  church.  (See  a  further  account  of  this 
family  in  Cooces  Monmouthshire,  p.  236,  &c.,  and  270,  &c.)  The  head  of 
Pont-y-Pool  Canal  is  1  m.  from  the  town,  and  12  from  Newport.  It  is  the 
means  of  transit  for  goods  manufactured  here,  and  the  produce  of  the 
Blaenavon  and  Varteg  iron- works,  which  are  conveyed  to  the  canal  upon  a 
railway  and  thence  to  Newport,  whence  they  may  be  shipped  in  the  Usk 
and  exported  to  any  part  of  the  world.  The  Avon  Llwyd  furnishes  this  canal 
with  a  constant  supply  of  water.  The  parish  church  of  Pont-y-Pool,  called 
Trefeddyn,  is  situated  on  an  eminence  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town ;  a  neat 
gravel  walk  ascends  to  it  through  plantations  of  forest  trees,  begun  at  the 
expense  of  Mrs.  Evans.  The  church  consists  of  a  square  tower  of  stone, 
with  whitewashed  battlements,  a  nave,  a  n.  aisle,  and  a  chancel,  separated 
by  a  pointed  arch.  At  the  e.  extremity  of  the  nave  is  a  small  chapel,  the 
cemetery  of  the  Hanburys.  A  handsome  Chapel  of  Ease  is  situated  near 
the  entrance  into  the  town  on  the  s.,  close  to  the  road  and  opposite  the  house 
of  Watkin  George,  Esq.  There  is  also  a  Chapel  of  Ease  near  the  residence 
of  Capel  Hanbury  Leigh,  Esq.  The  hills  and  valleys  near  the  town  are 
finely  wooded,  and  the  buildings  are  respectable.  The  contiguous  villages 
of  Pont~y~Moyle,  Trostnant,  and  Trefeddyn,  render  the  place  extensive  and 
populous.  The  town  is  surrounded  on  all  sides,  except  to  the  s.,  by  high 
mountains,  so  that  the  high  roads  from  Brecon,  Abergavenny,  Monmouth, 
Usk,  Caerleon  and  Newport,  all  unite  near  the  town,  and  form  one  entrance. 
The  park  is  pleasantly  situated,  forming  part  of  the  hill  called  Moel,  or 
Moyl,  descending  to  the  river.  The  aspect  to  the  s.  and  s.w.,  facing  the 
town  of  Pont-y-Pool  and  the  villages  of  Trostnant  and  Pont-y-Moyle,  is 
beautiful.  It  is  finely  wooded  with  oak  and  other  forest  trees.  The  prin¬ 
cipal  entrance  is  at  the  bottom  of  a  gentle  declivity  near  the  village  of  Pont- 
y-Moyle,  through  a  large  pair  of  Gothic  iron  gates  of  curious  workmanship, 
A  handsome  lodge  introduces  us  to  an  extensive  lawn  leading  to  the  house. 
The  park  is  charmingly  diversified.  From  a  summer-house,  on  an  eminence 
near  the  s.  extremity  of  the  chain  of  hills  extending  from  the  park  to  the 
Blorenge,  may  be  seen  a  gratifying  and  almost  boundless  prospect.  The 
mansion  was  begun  by  Major  Hanbury  towards  the  end  of  the  17th  century, 
and  finished  by  his  son  Capel.  The  present  proprietor,  Capel  Hanbury 
Leigh,  Esq.  has  made  some  judicious  and  considerable  alterations.  Many 
portraits  are  here  of  the  family,  i.  e.  three  of  Major  Hanbury,  at  different 
periods;  his  second  wife  and  son  Capel,  two  of  the  Hon.  Mrs. Hanbury, 
eldest  daughter  of  Lord  Viscount  Tracey,  and  wife  of  Capel ;  a  f  in.  crayons 
of  the  late  John  Hanbury,  Esq. ;  another  of  his  wife,  since  Mrs.  Stoughton  ; 
two  of  Sir  Charles  Hanbury  Williams.  A  fine  whole  length  of  Sir  John 
Hanbury,  Knt.  of  Kilmarsh,  Northamptonshire.  An  old  man  in  a  blue 
night-cap  is  the  portrait  of  Mr.  Williams,  of  Caerleon,  the  friend  and  bene¬ 
factor  of  Major  Hanbury.  In  the  dining-room,  Sarah,  Duchess  of  Marl¬ 
borough,  sitting  with  her  daughter  Anne ;  Blenheim  House  appears  in  the 
background.  John  Duke  of  Marlborough,  sitting,  with  a  truncheon  in  his 
hand;  Frederick  II.,  king  of  Prussia;  Earl  of  Stafford,  by  Vandyke ;  Sir 


512 


PONT-Y-POOL. 


Robert  Walpole,,  and  Sir  Thomas  Winnington,  of  Stanford  Court.  There 
are  also  two  charming  pictures  by  Morillo,,  representing  two  groups  of 
boys ;  an  Esculapius,  writings  by  Vandyke,  and  a  man  in  armour,  brought 
by  Mrs.  Leigh  from  Gnoll  Castle.  The  Library  is  a  large  room,  in  which 
a  chimney  with  a  fire-place  on  each  side  stands  in  the  middle.  The 
collection  is  large  and  valuable,  but  badly  arranged.  The  improvements 
which  have  been  made  in  agriculture  upon  the  estates  of  C.  H.  Leigh, 
Esq.  near  Pont-y-Pool,  are  equal  to  any  in  the  county.  The  iron  and 
tin  works  of  Messrs.  Leigh  and  Co.  are  numerous  and  extensive.  The 
iron  ore  and  coals  are  found  in  great  abundance  in  the  mountains  of 
Mynydd  Maen  and  Mynnydd-y-Crtb.  After  the  iron  ore  has  been  smelted 
at  the  furnaces  between  the  two  mountains  at  the  s.  w.  of  the  town,  it  is 
conveyed  to  the  other  works  to  be  wrought  into  blooms,  rolled  into  bars,  and 
lastly  thin  plates,  which  are  afterwards  plated  with  tin.  The  whole  of  this 
process,  from  the  mine  where  the  ore  is  found  to  the  completing  of  the  tin 
plates,  may  be  seen  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours,  and  within  the  space  of 
3  m.  The  process  of  extracting  tar  from  coals  is  carried  on  near  these 
furnaces.  The  works  for  carrying  on  the  finishing  process  are  at  Pont- 
y- Moyle  near  the  entrance  to  the  town  from  Newport,  Usk,  and  Abergavenny. 
The  machinery  is  propelled  by  water  from  Avon  Llwyd,  conveyed  across  the 
river.  The  same  water  puts  in  motion  other  mills  near  the  junction  of  the 
two  canals.  The  entrance  to  the  works  at  Pont-y- Moyle  is  by  a  gateway 
between  octangular  offices  on  each  side.  The  whole  of  the  buildings  for  the 
agents  and  clerks  give  much  liveliness  to  the  place.  The  narrow  defile  be¬ 
tween  the  mountains  of  Mynydd  Maen  and  Cefn  Crib,  to  the  w.  afford  an 
excellent  road  to  Cbumlin,  m.  on  the  way  to  Caerphilly  and  other  places; 
and  the  vale  of  the  Avon  Llwyd  affords  room  for  the  tramroad,  leading  from 
the  iron-works  at  Blaenavon  and  the  Varteg. 

To  Abergavenny,  the  turnpike-road  passes  by  Tont-y -Moyle.  Cross 
the  Avon  Llwyd,  near  the  entrance  to  the  park,  and  proceed  up  to  the 
turnpike-gate,  where  the  road  falls  into  that  leading  from  Newport.  The 
situation  of  the  gatekeeper’s  house  commands  some  extensive  views  to  the 
E.  and  s.,  including  the  Bristol  Channel  and  Somersetshire  hills.  Pass  on 
the  1.  some  highly  cultivated  lands,  with  a  large  farm-house  upon  a  knoll 
in  front.  Cross  the  Abergavenny  and  Brecon  Canal,  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  is  the  church  of  Llanjiliangel,  Pont-y-Moyle,  and  a  farm-yard  called 
Great  Monkwood,  formerly  a  religious  house,  belonging  to  the  abbey  of 
Tintern.  1§  m.  further  the  road  divides,  the  one  passing  straight  down  the 
valley  leads  to  Usk,  by  Monk’s  Wood  and  Chapel ;  the  other  to  Abergavenny 
lies  to  the  1.  to  Mamhilad,  where  is  a  chapel  of  ease  to  Llanover.  The 
cemetery  contains  12  large  yew-trees.  There  is  a  little  public-house  opposite. 
The  road  continues  rectilinear,  affording  some  fine  views  of  the  valley  on  the 
r.  watered  by  the  Usk.  At  the  foot  of  a  steep  descent,  cross  the  brook 
called  Rhyd-y-Meirch,  which  falls  into  the  Usk  below,  near  the  seat  of 
B.  Waddington,  Esq.  at  Llanover,  which  stands  not  far  from  the  road,  but 
is  almost  totally  hid  by  a  thick  plantation  of  larch.  To  Abergavenny  4  m. 
In  the  succeeding  mile,  a  vale  on  the  r.  opens,  and  at  the  distance  of  2  m.  is 
the  little  village  of  Llanelen,  where  the  road  crosses  the  Usk  over  a  wooden 
bridge,  which,  though  20  feet  above  the  usual  surface  of  the  stream,  is 
sometimes  overflowed. 

There  is  another  road  to  Abergavenny  from  Pont-y-Pool  without  cross¬ 
ing  the  river  till  at  the  w.  end  of  the  town,  where  there  are  two  stone 
bridges.  The  pedestrian,  in  case  of  heavy  rain,  will  do  well  to  take  this 
road,  as  the  elevated  bridge,  over  which  the  tramroad  runs  from  the  Blorenge 


PONT-Y-POOL. 


513 


to  Abergavenny^  would  afford  a  safe  passage  ;  but  the  old  bridge  and  road 
below^  which  is  the  only  way  which  carriages  can  pass,  is  often  overflowed 
as  at  Llanelen.  Agreeable  accommodations  may  be  had  at  the  Blue  Bell. 
By  proceeding  over  the  old  bridge  at  Llanelen,  the  road  soon  joins  that  lead¬ 
ing  from  Usk  and  Monmouth,  1  m.  from  Abergavenny.  By  proceeding  the 
other  way,  the  traveller  is  brought  to  the  foot  of  the  Blorenge  Mountain, 
amid  the  smoke  of  lime-kilns  and  rattle  of  tram- waggons,  and  unless  he  has 
occasion  to  call  at  Abergavenny  he  may  pursue  his  route  to  Crickhowel, 
Brecon,  or  any  of  the  adjacent  iron- works. 

To  Abergavenny  by  the  Varteg  and  Blaenavon  Iron-works,  leave 
the  upper  end  of  the  town  to  the  n.  crossing  the  canal,  and  proceeding  by 
Newydd,  the  road  again  crosses  the  canal,  not  far  from  its  termination, 
where  it  is  met  by  the  railroad,  and  continues  up  the  side  of  the  valley  with 
the  river  underneath.  At  1:1  m.  distance  the  road  crosses  the  After  Sychan, 
a  stream  issuing  down  a  dingle  from  the  hills  and  falling  into  the  Avon 
Llwyd.  At  this  place  there  is  a  small  village  with  two  public-houses  ;  1 J  m. 
further  are  the  Varteg  Iron-works.  The  furnaces  are  upon  the  hill  to  the 
1.  Blaenavon^  2^  m.  lies  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  near  the  ter¬ 
mination  of  the  valley.  [See  p.  20.]  The  route  this  way  is  not  much  longer 
than  the  other,  and  it  affords  the  traveller  an  extensive  prospect  of  the  moun¬ 
tainous  district,  with  the  iron-works.  When  upon  the  hill  1]  m.  beyond 
these  works,  the  summit  of  the  Blorenge  may  be  gained  by  keeping  to  the  1, 
The  new  works  on  the  other  side  may  be  visited ;  or  if  the  traveller  choose 
to  take  a  subterraneous  drive  through  the  mountain,  he  undoubtedly  may  be 
accommodated. 

To  Usk  proceed  along  the  same  road  first  mentioned  to  Abergavenny. 

To  Newport  and  Caerleon,  the  same  way  as  above,  to  the  turnpike-gate 
where  the  road  proceeds  over  the  Brecon  and  Avergavenny  Canal,  with  the 
Avon  Llwyd  on  the  r.  until  the  road  descends  to  the  village  of  Llantarnam, 
4  m.  To  Caerleon  from  the  gate  upon  the  hill,  3  m.  The  pedestrian  may 
choose  the  towing  path  of  the  canal,  on  account  of  its  being  level,  but  it  is 
not  shorter. 

To  Crumlin,  Caerphilly,  Tredegar  Iron-works,  Merthyr  Tydvil. 
The  road  leads  over  the  canal  towards  the  mountains  on  the  w.,  having 
gained  the  defile  between  the  two  mountains,  near  the  furnaces  and  coal- 
works  of  Capel  Hanbury  Leigh,  Esq.,  and  are  called  the  Pont-y-Pool 
Iron-works.  Here  are  three  furnaces  in  blast,  and  one  out ;  two  blown 
with  hot  air,  and  one  with  cold.  The  make  of  the  three  furnaces  is  about 
200  tons  per  week.  The  hot  air  pigs  are  sold  chiefly  for  foundery  purposes, 
and  the  cold  air  iron  is  used  by  Mr.  Leigh  for  tin  plates,  of  which  he  has 
been  for  a  long  time  past  a  very  eminent  maker.  The  yield  of  the  iron¬ 
stone  at  these  works  is  about  30  per  cent. :  but  Mr.  Leigh  imports  large 
quantities  of  the  richer  ores  from  Lancashire  and  Cornwall  for  the  im¬ 
provement  of  the  quality  of  his  iron.  In  this  defile  there  are  two  large 
reservoirs  for  supplying  the  canal  at  Pont-y-Pool,  having  the  appearance 
of  lakes.  The  road  crosses  from  the  r.  to  the  1.  side  of  the  defile  between 
the  reservoirs.  A  little  beyond  the  second  the  road  begins  to  descend 
to  the  valley  of  Crumlin,  near  the  head  of  the  other  branch  of  the  canal 
from  Newport,  which  is  also  supplied  with  water  falling  down  the  defile. 
Crumlin  is  a  small  village  with  two  public-houses,  and  the  cottages  much 
scattered.  But  there  are  extensive  collieries  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  an 
iron  foundery  at  Llankilleth,  a  little  way  up  the  valley  to  the  r.  upon  the 
side  of  the  tramroad,  where  there  is  another  large  reservoir.  To  the  1. 
the  passage  for  the  canal  appears  to  have  been  cut  out  of  the  rock  over- 

L  L 


514 


PRESTEIGN. 


hanging  the  river  Ebbw,  which  is  crossed  by  a  stone  bridge^  the  road  pro¬ 
ceeding  directly  up  the  hill  leads  to  Croespenmaen,  the  Argoed,  Bedwelty, 
and  the  road  leading  to  Tredegar  ;  hut  on  account  of  its  unevenness^  is  not 
frequently  used^  except  to  Penmaen  and  its  vicinity.  The  best  and  most 
FREQUENTED  ROAD_,  tums  on  the  1.  down  on  the  side  of  the  river  to  New- 
bridge,  where  there  is  another  public-house  with  good  accommodations. 
The  road  here  takes  a  turn  up  another  defile,  amid  tramroads  and  coal- 
works,  and  proceeds  across  the  country  in  nearly  a  right  line  to  the  valley  of 
the  Sirhowy  river,  where  it  joins  the  tramroad,  leading  to  the  Tredegar 
and  Sirhowy  iron-works.  At  Tredegar  five  furnaces  are  in  operation,  all 
blown  with  cold  air ;  the  Tredegar  Iron  Company  are  building  two  others, 
and  contemplate  the  erection  of  two  more,  making  nine  altogether.  They 
now  produce  400  to  450  tons  cast  iron  weekly,  which  is  nearly  all  made 
into  bars,  rails,  and  rods ;  of  these  they  make  about  330  tons  per  week. 
Turning  to  the  r.  there  is  a  good  carriage  road,  which  runs  parallel  all 
the  way.  This  is  the  best  road  from  Pont-y-Pool  to  Tredegar  and  Mer¬ 
thyr  Tydvil.  Nearly  opposite,  upon  the  hill  to  the  1.  is  Penllwyn,  a  large 
old  mansion,  surrounded  with  high  sycamore  trees,  now  occupied  as  a  farm¬ 
house.  m.  further  is  a  lodge,  leading  up  to  Plds-y- Bedwelty,  an  old  man¬ 
sion.  Opposite,  upon  the  other  side  the  river  to  the  r.,  is  Woodfield  Cottage, 
the  seat  of  J.  Hodder  Moggridge,  Esq.,  the  proprietor.  Argoed,  with  a  good 
inn,  1^  m.  and  several  collieries  in  the  rear.  The  process  of  extracting  tar 
from  coal  may  be  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  A  little  way  from 
the  Argoed  Inn,  on  the  1.  the  road  turns  up  a  hill  to  Bedwelty  Church,  near 
which  a  Boman  causeway  leads  along  the  summit  towards  Tredegar  works. 
Argoed  to  Tredegar,  6^  m.  From  Tredegar  to  Merthyr  Tydvil,  7  ni. 

To  Caerphilly  the  road  takes  a  different  direction  from  the  place  where 
the  turnpike-road  from  Pont-y-Prydd  crosses  the  Sirhowy,  and  enters  on 
the  tramroad,  by  turning  to  the  1.  and  passing  near  the  branch  of  the 
tramroad,  towards  Penllwyn  House,  leading  to  Geligaer,  we  soon  enter 
the  vale  of  the  Rumney  river,  finely  wooded  all  the  way,  6  m.  Another 
road  is  frequently  taken  by  pedestrians,  and  equestrians,  which  turns  to 
the  1.  by  the  side  of  the  tramroad  leading  to  Newport,  f  m.  down  to  Geli- 
y-Groes,  where  there  is  a  public-house.  The  traveller  may  hence  pursue  the 
route  before  mentioned,  or  ascend  the  mountains  to  the  r.  in  a  slanting 
direction.  Proceeding  in  nearly  a  r.  line,  he  will  arrive  in  sight  of  the 
castle  and  town  of  Caerphilly,  having  the  vale  of  the  river  Rumney  on  the 
r.  and  that  of  Sirhowy  on  the  1.  Descending  the  hill  by  Bedwas  Church,  he 
will  cross  the  Rumney  to  Caerphilly,  distant  from  Geli-y-Groes,  5  m. 

To  Abergavenny,  10^  miles.  j  To  Caerphilly,  lOV  miles. 

Newport,  9  miles.  CardifF,  20  miles. 

Merthyr  Tydvil,  22  miles  by  Crumlin.  | 


PRESTEIGN. 

From  Khaiadyr,  thence  to  Pen-y-bont,  Caer  From  Hereford,  25  miles.  Lipscomb. 

Ditches,  or  Caer  C.tradoc,  near  Clun,  and  Kington,  7  miles.  Lipscomb’s  return, 

down  thevrie  ol  Teme,  about  50  miles. 

Skrine. 

PRESTEIGN,  or  Llan  Andras  (the  church  of  St.  Andrew),  the  county 
town  of  Radnorshire,  is  beautifully  situated  in  a  rich  valley  on  the  Lug, 
a  river  celebrated  for  its  pleasant  trout  and  grayling  fishing,  and  is  distant 
from  London  151  miles.  In  1831  the  population  of  this  parish  was  2^82. 
The  market  is  on  Saturday,  the  fairs  on  Saturday  before  Feb.  13.,  May  Q., 
Oct.  13.  and  14.,  and  December  11th. 


PRESTEIGN. 


515 


This  parisbj  which  is  partly  in  the  hundred  of  Wigmore  and  partly  in 
the  hundred  and  county  of  Radnor^,  is  a  borough  by  prescription,  and  jointly 
with  those  of  New  Radnor,  Knighton,  Rhaiadyr,  Cefn-llys,  and  Cnwclas, 
returns  one  member  to  parliament.  The  living  is  a  rectory  and  vicarage 
united,  to  which  is  annexed  the  chapelry  of  Discoed  ;  the  Earl  of  Oxford 
patron.  The  Church,  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  contains  some 
monuments  and  tablets  inscribed  with  the  names  of  Owen,  Price,  Davies, 
and  Parsons,  and  there  is  a  finely  wrought  piece  of  tapestry,  in  good  pre¬ 
servation,  representing  Christ’s  entry  into  Jerusalem.  It  was  worked  by 
some  ladies  of  the  name  of  Taylor,  then  residing  at  Little  Brampton,  near 
Presteign.  Over  the  great  chancel  window  on  the  exterior,  upon  a  stone  is 
inscribed  P.  L.  1244,”  which  have  been  supposed  to  mean  ^^Martin,  the 
Pope’s  Legate.”  This  appears  to  be  an  error,  as  Richard  Martine,  according 
to  Browne  (Willis's  Survey,  p.  115.),  was  consecrated  July  1.  1482.  He 
was  an  extraordinary  benefactor  to  the  town,  and  obtained  for  it  great  pri¬ 
vileges  and  a  market.  The  cemetery  contains  little  besides  the  rude  fore¬ 
fathers  of  the  hamlet.  The  rectory  is  worth  at  least  1 000/.  per  annum. 
The  Free  School  was  founded  by  John  Beddoes,  Esq.,  in  the  reign  of 
Queen  Elizabeth,  and  is  endowed  with  140/.  per  annum.  The  assizes  and 
quarter  sessions  are  held  in  Presteign,  and  the  county  courts  here  and  at 
New  Radnor  alternately.  The  Shire  Hall  is  a  handsome  structure  situated  in 
Broad  Street.  This  is  the  largest  town  in  the  county.  It  rose  into  eminence 
under  the  patronage  of  Martin,  Bishop  of  St.  David’s,  about  the  close  of 
the  thirteenth  century  ;  and  as  New  Radnor  declined,  Presteign  became  the 
capital.  The  letters  M.  P.  L.,  before  alluded  to,  may  probably  mean  ‘^Mar- 
tinus  posuit  lapidem,”  referring  to  the  latter  bishop.  A  beautiful  little 
eminence,  formerly  the  site  of  the  castle  of  Presteign,  was  called  Warden 
presented  to  the  inhabitants  by  Lord  Oxford. 

Principal  Inns  :  Radnorshire  Arms  ;  Castle. 

Wapley  Encampment  lies  at  the  distance  of  3  m.  to  the  s.  e.,  situated 
on  a  towering  eminence  1100  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  ascent 
should  be  commenced  at  Weohley  Ash,  2  m.  from  Presteign  on  the  Kington 
road.  The  prospect  it  commands  renders  it,  independent  of  its  antiquity, 
an  object  worthy  of  attention.  To  the  s.  e.  is  a  stretch  as  far  as  May  Hill, 
in  Gloucestershire.  The  city  of  Hereford  lies  a  little  to  the  r.  of  it,  but  is 
intercepted  by  a  range  of  hills  which  terminates  in  the  promontory  of  Lady- 
lift.  To  the  s.  are  the  Skyrrids  in  Monmouthshire,  and  the  Black  Mountains. 
On  the  s.  w.  the  Brecon  Beacons,  the  highest  eminence  in  South  ^Tales, 
are  distinguished  by  their  notched  appearance.  Robin  flood’s  Butts,  a 
detached  wooded  summit,  stands  in  the  middle  of  a  rich  plain  on  the  s.  side 
of  the  hill  The  Earl  of  Oxford’s  seat  at  Eywood,  is  seen  in  the  valley 
below,  among  rich  woods  and  plantations.  On  the  n.  side,  the  town  of 
Presteign  with  the  castle  and  village  of  Stapleton  lie  at  the  foot,  A  high 
hill  near  Llanidloes  (probably  Biga  Mountain)  peeps  over  some  intervening 
elevations  ;  the  Stretton  Flills  and  Wenlock  Edge,  the  Brown  Clee  Hills  and 
Titters  tone,  all  in  Shropshire,  are  distinctly  seen,  and  an  opening  to  the  n.  e. 
affords  a  glimpse  of  Ridgeley  Park,  in  Staffordsiiire.  The  Camp  on  the 
summit  is  irregularly  oval,  the  entrance  was  from  the  s.,  but  several  breaches 
have  been  made  in  the  works.  From  the  entrance  to  the  n.  w.  side,  there 
are  four  ditches,  three  at  the  s.  e.  angle,  and  thence  to  the  n.  e.  angle  are 
five,  with  large  spaces  of  ground  between  them.  The  n.  side  is  inaccessible, 
and  has  therefore  only  one  vallum,  which  runs  along  the  brow  of  Combe  Hill. 
A  reservoir  still  exists,  in  which  is  a  constant  supply  of  water,  14  or  15 
feet  deep.  It  is  supposed  that  this  fortification  was  thrown  up  by  the 

L  L  5 


516 


PRESTEIGN. 


Romans_,  soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  Christian  era^  and  that 
Caractacus  had  previously  occupied  it  with  a  very  formidable  train.  Some 
coins  were  found  here  not  many  years  since.  The  wall  enclosing  the 
Warren  is  4  m.  round  ;  this,  with  the  contiguous  estate,  is  the  property  of 
the  Earl  of  Oxford.  Returning  from  this  encampment,  descend  the  hill, 
and  regain  the  turnpike-road  ;  take  a  track  to  the  village  of  Nash,  where 
pass  a  stream,  and  reach  Presteign  through  a  romantic  valley.  The  whole 
of  Combe  hill  is  a  rabbit  warren.  The  wall  inclosing  it  is  4  m.  round.  The 
return  to  Presteign  may  be  varied  by  descending  a  steep  path  through  a 
wood  on  the  n.  side,  and  falling  into  the  Leominster  road  at  the  village  of 
Combe.  On  the  1.  is  the  seat  of  T.  B.  Ricketts,  Esq.  Cross  the  Endwell. 
and  keep  the  turnpike- road  across Rroac?  Heath  (Mrs.  Stephens)  to  Presteign. 

Near  this  town  is  a  place  called  the  King's  Turning,  meaning,  as  is 
generally  imagined,  King  Charles’s  Turning,  there  being  in  one  of  the 
old  registers  of  the  parish  the  following  note  :  —  In  the  time  of  Oliver 
Cromwell,  Nicholas  Taylor,  Esq.  lived  at  the  Lower  Heath  in  this  parish, 
and  when  King  Charles  I.  fled  before  Oliver  Cromwell,  then  in  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood  of  Hereford,  he  dined  and  slept  at  the  Unicorn  Inn  at  Leominster 
the  first  day,  and  the  next  two  nights  he  slept  at  Mr.  Taylor’s  (a  short  dis¬ 
tance  from  the  King’s  Turning,)  from  thence  he  rode  over  the  hills  to  New¬ 
town,  and  so  on  to  Chester.” 

Stapleton  Castle  lies  1  m.  n.  e.  of  Presteign  on  the  road  to  Leintwardine. 
Although  dignified  with  the  name  of  castle,  it  has  the  appearance  more  of 
a  deserted  mansion  of  the  l6th  and  17th  centuries,  than  a  place  of  great 
strength.  Its  picturesque  situation  on  a  rock,  and  the  view  from  it  of  the 
valley  of  the  Lug,  and  Radnor  Forest  in  the  background,  render  it  an  object 
of  interest.  Stapleton  Castle  was,  until  lately,  the  property  of  the  Earl 
of  Oxford,  and  was  formerly  a  seat  of  the  Cornwalls. 

On  the  ROAD  to  Knighton,  Boultihrooke,  1  m.,  the  seat  of  the  Right 
Honourable  Sir  H.  J.  Brydges,  Bart.  Norton,  1  m.,  on  the  1.  is  the  seat  of 
Richard  Price,  M.  P.,  for  the  boroughs  of  New  Radnor,  Presteign,  &c. 

From  Norton  the  road  winds  over  a  high  hill,  from  whence  is  an  ex¬ 
tensive  view  of  wild  uncultivated  mountain  and  moorland.  Cross  OfFa’s 
Hike  to  Knighton,  4  m. 

The  TURNPIKE-ROAD  to  New  Radnor  Ues  through  the  romantic  valley  of 
Knill,  which  is  entered  at  Corton.  2  m.  from  Presteign  pass  by  Nash  Lime 
Rocks.  There  is  not,”  says  Mr.  Murchison,  perhaps,  in  Great  Britain,  a 
finer  mass  of  altered  and  crystalline  limestone  than  that  exhibited  at  Nash 
Scar,  the  principal  cliff  of  which  rises  to  the  height  of  200  or  300  ft.  above 
the  adjoining  valley  of  Knill  and  Presteign.”  The  kilns  here  supply  a  great 
part  of  the  county  of  Radnor  and  no  inconsiderable  portion  of  Herefordshire 
with  lime  of  the  best  quality  for  agricultural  purposes.  m.  further  on 
the  1.  is  Knill  Church  and  Court,  the  seat  of  Sir  John  'VFalsham,  Bart.,  one 
of  the  assistant  poor  law  commissioners.  Sir  Samuel  and  Lady  Romilly 
are  buried  in  this  church.  Pass  under  Berva  \Uood.  On  the  top  of  this 
Hill  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  encampment,  erected  on  the  line  of  Offa’s 
Hike,  f  m.  cross  the  Endwell  or  Somergil,  which  rises  in  Radnor  Forest 
and  falls  into  the  Lug,  3  m.  below  Presteign.  lUalton,  2  m.  Here  the 
road  joins  the  Cheltenham  and  Hereford  road  to  Aberystwith.  The  tra¬ 
velling  on  this  line  is  considerable  during  the  season  in  which  Aberystwith 
is  resorted  to  ;  the  Cheltenham  and  Aberystwith  mail  runs  daily  throughout 
the  year,  and  there  are  other  coaches  during  the  summer.  From  Walton, 
the  tower  of  Old  Radnor  church  on  the  1.  forms  a  pretty  object  in  the 
landscape.  Harpton  Court,  1  m.,  on  the  1.  of  the  road,  is  the  residence 


PRESTEIGN. 


517 

of  the  Right  Honourable  T.  F,  Lewis^  late  chief  commissioner  of  the  poor 
laws^  and  formerly  the  member  for  the  county.  On  the  r.  is  Downton, 
lately  the  residence  of  Sir  William  Cockburn_,  Bart.  New  Radnor,  1  m. 

There  is  a  nearer  bridle  road  to  New  Radnor  from  Presteign  along 
the  old  turnpike-road,  under  Warden  Walks,  by  Beggar^s  Bush  and  Kin- 
nerton  ;  but  the  road  just  described  by  Knill  is  recommended  to  all  tourists, 
and  the  route  through  New  Radnor  to  Pen-y-bont,  Rbaiadyr,  and  Aber- 
ystwith,  will  be  found  much  more  interesting  than  the  one  lately  formed 
from  Presteign  to  Pen-y-bont  by  Whitton  and  Blethvaiigh  ,•  but  the  latter  is 
3  m.  nearer,  although  the  road  is  not  so  good. 

To  Leominster  and  Ludlow,  pass  Combe,  m,;  pass  by  a  large  sheet  of 
water  in  Shobdon  Park,  the  seat  of  Lord  Bateman,  through  the  pretty  vil¬ 
lage  of  Shobden  to  Mortimer’s  Cross,  8  m.  from  Presteign.  The  road  to 
Leominster  branches  off  to  the  r.  through  Kingsland.  Mortimer  s  Cross  is 
rendered  famous  in  history  from  its  vicinity  to  the  spot  on  which  Edward 
Duke  of  York  (afterwards  King  Edward  IV.),  encountered  the  forces  of 
Henry  VI.,  under  the  command  of  Jasper  Earl  of  Pembroke.  To 
Ludlow,  cross  the  Lug,  pass  Croft  Castle,  once  the  seat  of  Thomas  Johnes, 
Esq.  of  Havod,  but  now  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Davis,  the  widow  of  Somerset 
Davis,  Esq.  From  Yarpole,  1  m.  distant,  enjoy  a  retrospect  of  the  build¬ 
ings  and  grounds.  3  m.  from  Ludlow  is  Richard’s  Castle,  a  place  of  great 
antiquity  and  importance  in  the  time  of  the  Normans.  The  approach  to 
Ludlow,  on  this  route  from  Presteign,  is  far  from  striking  ;  neither  the 
castle,  the  church,  nor  the  river  appear  to  advantage. 

To  Ludlow,  from  Presteign,  at  the  foot  of  Combe  Hill,  2  m.,  upon  which 
is  an  ancient  fortification  already  noticed,  pass  the  genteel  villas  of  Broad 
Heath,  Mrs.  Stephens,  and  Combe,  T.  B.  Ricketts,  Esq.  The  village  of 
Kinsham,  and  Kinsham  Court,  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Countess  Dowager 
of  Oxford,  are  on  the  1.,  now  the  property  of  the  Hon.  R.  E.  Plunkett,  is 
situated  on  the  river  Lug,  about  3  m.  e.  of  Presteign.  The  house  presents 
no  attraction,  but  the  view  from  the  terrace-walk  looking  down  the  river, 
is  romantic  in  the  extreme.  Though  not  very  extensive,  there  is,  perhaps, 
no  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Presteign,  which  will  bear  a  comparison 
with  this.  The  prospect  from  the  churchyard  in  the  contrary  direction, 
looking  up  the  valley  of  Knill,  is  also  very  beautiful.  There  is  one  charm 
about  Kinsham  which  remains  to  be  noticed.  This  place  was  formerly  a 
seat  of  Lord  Oxford  ;  and  Lord  Byron  spent  some  considerable  time  here. 
It  was  a  favourite  spot  of  that  poet,  and  it  is  said  he  had  at  one  time  an  in¬ 
tention  of  making  it  his  residence.  Brand  Hill,  dihold  craggy  eminence,  now 
darkens  the  road.  Pass  Shobden  Court,  the  mansion  of  Viscount  Bateman  ; 
then  cross  a  bridge,  and  through  the  village  to  Mortimer’s  Cross,  where  an  inn 
affords  good  accommodation. 

Another  and  more  interesting  route  to  Ludlow,  lies  by  way  of  Stapleton 
Castle,  1  m.  Willey,  1|  m.  Lingen  Castle,  \\vc\.  Dickendale,  l^m. 
Wigmore,  1:^  m.  (On  the  1.  is  Wigmore  Hall,  Rev.  J.  Simpkinson  ;  and 
2  m.  on  the  r.  of  Wigmore,  is  Croft  Castle f)  Lenthall,  1  ^  m.  Elton, 
l^m.  Aston,  ^  m.  (Two  m.  on  the  1.  is  Hownton  Castle;  Mary’s  Knoll, 

1  m.)  Cross  the  Teme  immediately  before  entering  the  beautifully  ro¬ 
mantic  town  of  Jmdlow,  2  m.  The  approach  this  way  is  attractive  and 
grand.  The  bold  tow^ers  of  the  Castle  reared  upon  an  eminence,  and  the 
Church  upon  still  higher  ground,  add  greatly  to  the  concomitant  scenery. 
A  bold  sweep  of  the  river  terminated  by  Ludford  Bridge,  will  not  fail  to 
arrest  attention.  Having  descended  the  alpine  path  of  Whitcliff,  the  change 
of  scenery  becomes  highly  interesting. 

I  L  3 


518 


PRESTEIGN. 


From  Presteign  to  Pen-y-bont  and  Aberystwith,  there  is  a  new  and  well 
planned  road‘ which  has  been  recently  made  through  the  vales  of  Whitton  and 
Blethvaugh,  three  miles  shorter  than  that  through  New  Radnor,  the  latter 
being  18  m.  from  Presteign  to  Pen-y-bont,  whereas  the  new  line  through 
Whitton  is  only  15.  Leaving  Presteign  by  the  w.  gate,  the  tourist  sees  on 
his  r.  Boultihroohe,  the  neat  and  elegant  mansion  of  Sir  H.  J.  Brydges, 
Bart.,  and  a  little  to  the  w.  the  fine  rising  grounds  and  plantations  of 
Impton,  the  beautiful  residence  of  Richard  Price,  Esq.  M.  P.  About 
1^  m.  from  the  town,  the  road  crosses  the  river  Lug  to  the  village  of  Whit¬ 
ton  4  m.,  the  church  of  which  is  small,  but  sufficient  for  the  wants  of  the 
population.  The  parish  Church  of  Pilleth,  1  m.  is  close  to  an  old  mansion 
(now  attached  to  a  farm,  of  which  the  Right  Hon.  T.  F.  Lewis  is  the  pro¬ 
prietor),  supposed  to  have  been  a  religious  house  belonging  to  Monaughty, 
1  m.  further.  This  latter  place,  so  called  from  Mynach-ty,  the  Monk’s 
House,”  must  have  been,  at  one  time,  an  important  and  extensive  establish¬ 
ment,  removed  probably,  from  Ahhey-cwm-Mr.  The  house  seems  entire,  and 
is  inhabited  by  Mr.  Rea,  the  respectable  tenant  of  Richard  Price,  Esq.  M.  P. 
Its  large  rooms,  dark  panels,  and  numerous  blocked  up  windows,  tell  of  its 
importance  in  days  lang  syne,”  This  narrow  valley,  which  once  echoed 
the  hymns  of  praise  from  two  religious  houses  within  a  mile  of  each  other, 
was  also  filled  with  the  groans,  and  crimsoned  with  the  blood  of  hundreds, 
on  June  12.  1402.  On  that  day  the  celebrated  Welsh  chieftain  Owain 
Glyndwr  defeated  the  men  of  Herefordshire,  with  great  slaughter,  and  took 
their  commander.  Sir  Edmund  Mortimer,  and  many  others  of  note,  prison¬ 
ers.  Near  Monaughty  was  Owain  s  Camp^  the  traces  of  which  are  still 
visible  ;  and  near  Whitton,  2  m.  distant,  is  the  earthwork,  supposed  to  have 
been  thrown  up  by  Mortimer:  and  between  both,  adjoining  the  r*oad  at 
Pilleth,  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Lug,  are  two  tumuli,  which  cover  the  slain. 
At  Monaughty,  the  road  diverges  to  the  1.  up  the  vale  of  Bleddfa  (pro¬ 
nounced  Blethvaugh),  passing  near  the  church,  where  slight  vestiges  of  an 
encampment  are  to  be  seen,  and  in  which  have  been  found  one  or  two  can¬ 
non  balls.  From  this  village,  8  m.  the  road  ascends  gently  to  a  pass,  over 
a  portion  of  Radnor  Forest,  and  descends  as  gradually  into  the  parish  of 
Llanvihangel  Rhydithon.  Here  the  traveller  may  be  said  to  enter  upon 
a  new  country,  leaving  the  deep  and  picturesque  vales  of  Whitton  and 
Bleddfa  behind,  the  whole  of  M^est  Radnorshire,  with  the  Brecon  and  Car¬ 
diganshire  hills,  in  the  distance  suddenly  lies  before  him.  The  next 
interesting  object  that  presents  itself,  is  the  new  church  of  Llanvihangel 
Rhydithon,  12  m.,  which  is  erected  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  was  rebuilt 
in  1838.  This  neat  and  commodious  edifice  is  situated  on  an  eminence 
by  the  road-side,  and  is  seen  to  much  advantage  in  approaching  it  from  the 
E.  Hence  to  Pen-y-bont  3  m. 

The  nearest  road  to  Ludlow  (but  which  is  impracticable  for  any  car¬ 
riage)  lies  by  way  of  Stapleton  Castle,  1  m.  Lingen,  3  m.  ’NFigmore, 
3  m.  Leinthal  Pearls,  1|^  m.  Elton,  1|:  m.  Aston,  ^  m.  (2  m.  on  the  1. 
is  Dowmton  Castle,  the  residence  of  the  late  Thomas  Andrew  Knight,  Esq. 
president  of  the  Horticultural  Society.)  St.  Mary’s  Knoll,  1  m.  from 
whence  there  is  a  fine  view  to  the  e.  Cross  the  Teme. 

Fishing  Station.  —  Discoed,  2  ^  m.  near  the  Lug. 


To  Leominster,  14  miles. 

I.udlow,  by  Mortimer’s  Cross,  19  miles.  Lips  ■ 
comb’s  return. 

•  - - ,  by  Wigmore,  15  miles. 

New  Radnor,  8  miles.  Lipscomb. 

Kington,  7  miles. 


To  Knighton,  6  miles. 

Rhaiadyr,  through  New  Radnor,  28  miles. 
Harford,  by  Lyonshall,  25  miles. 
Worcester,  40  miles. 

Aberystwitii,  62 miles. 


519 


PYLE. 

From  Newton,  5  miles.  Donovan.  From  Cow'bridge,  13  iniles.  Wyndhain  ;  Skrine; 

Margam  Park,  3  miles.  Barber  ;  Malkin.  Warner. 

PYLEj  in  the  hundred  of  Newcastle^  Glamorganshire^  is  a  cbapelry  to 
the  vicarage  of  Cynfeg_,  in  the  patronage  of  the  crown.  In  1801  the  po¬ 
pulation  of  this  parish  was  406.  There  is  a  spring  of  cold  water  near  the 
chapeh  called  CoUwyn  Well,  once  famed  for  medicinal  virtues. 

Pyle  Inn,  in  Glamorganshire^  is  a  magnificent  house,  built  by  Mr.  Talbot 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  public,  in  a  retired  situation  and  beautiful 

country,  6  m.  n.  w.  of  Bridgend  in  Glamorganshire,  kept  by - Marment. 

Mr.  Warner  says  the  house  makes  up  40  beds.  The  landlord  is  truly 
attentive  to  his  guests,  and  full  of  anecdote.  A  good  garden  and  shrubbery 
are  attached  to  the  house,  whence  is  a  fine  sea  view.  An  eminent  aged 
harper  resided  near  this  place.  The  church  at  Pyle  is  handsome. 

When  at  Pyle,  Mr.  Wyndham  made  a  little  walking  excursion  to  Cynfeg 
or  Mawdlam.  On  his  return  he  followed  the  brook,  which  is  an  excellent 
fishing  stream,  and  runs  from  the  ruins  towards  the  inn.  He  was  much 
surprised  with  the  uncommon  strength  of  a  spring  which  rose  like  a  spout 
from  a  small  pool  adjoining  to  the  rivulet.  In  approaching  Margam  along 
a  lane,  he  noticed  one  of  the  pillars  mentioned  by  Camden,  standing  up¬ 
right.  The  following  inscription  was  perfectly  legible:  —  Punpeius  Car 
Antopius.”  The  Castle  of  Cynfeg,  one  of  Fitzhamon’s  residences,  stood 
upon  a  mount;  but  it  has  been  so  enveloped  in  sand,  that  there  are  scarcely 
any  traces  remaining  of  it.  Cynfeg  Pool  is  said  to  be  unfathomable. 

Newton  Nottage  is  a  commodious  and  agreeable  bathing-place,  with  a 
fine  shore.  Merthyr  Mawr  is  a  well-wooded,  pretty  spot,  on  the  w.  bank 
of  Ogmore  river.  On  the  e.  side,  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Ewenny 
and  Ogmore,  William  de  Londre,  after  having  obtained  the  lordship  of 
Ogmore,  built  a  strong  castle.  Its  remains,  though  of  no  great  magnitude, 
are  interesting.  Near  this  place  there  are  several  pits,  like  those  in  Gower, 
hedged  round.  At  Tythegstone,  on  the  estate  of  Henry  Knight,  Esq., 
there  is  a  demolished  cromlech,  with  a  heap  of  stones  thrown  over  it. 
The  top  stone  is  visible.  Laleston  will  be  thought  interesting  to  the  anti¬ 
quary,  as  connected  with  the  improvement,  if  not  the  introduction  of  castle 
architecture,  and  probably  the  Gothic,  into  Glamorganshire. 

On  the  road  to  Margam  about  1  m.  beyond  Pyle  are  two  curious  relics 
of  ancient  British  sculpture,  these  form  a  foot  bridge  over  a  rivulet  on  the 
r.  side  of  the  public  road.  The  current  passes  close  by  a  farm-house 
called  Cwrt-y- Dafydd,  The  village  of  Margam  continues  in  view  a  con¬ 
siderable  part  of  the  road ;  it  lies  in  a  bottom,  under  a  finely-wooded  range 
of  mountain,  forming  a  picture  of  rural  beauty.  Leaving  the  village  a  few 
score  paces  to  the  1.  a  plain  carriage  road  leads  to  Margam  Park,  C.  R. 
Mansell  Talbot,  Esq.  The  park  is  about  5  m.  in  circumference.  The  plea¬ 
sure  and  ornamental  grounds  contain  a  finely  conspicuous  conse  vatory 
in  the  Doric  style,  380  by  82  ft.,  in  which  is  one  of  the  finest  collec¬ 
tions  of  orange  trees  in  the  kingdom.  There  is  no  mansion  attached  to  the 
park.  Here  is  an  ancient  Saxon  church,  restored  at  great  cost  and  with 
equal  taste,  and  containing  some  splendid  monuments  of  the  Mansell  family. 
From  the  road,  10  m.  in  extent  from  Pyle  to  Briton  Ferry,  there  is  scarcely 

L  L  4 


520 


RADNOR. 


any  thing  visible^  except  a  long  tract  of  sand.  This  remark  applies  to  the 
coastside  only.  The  inland  surface  is  verdant  and  beautiful. 

To  Bridgend,  5^  miles.  Malkin.  To  Cowbridge,  12^  miles.  Barber. 

Margam,  3^“  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Donovan;  Ewenny  Abbey,  6i  miles. 

Skrine  ;  Warner. 


RADNOR. 

From  Hay,  17  miles.  Malkin.  I  From  Presteign,  7  miles.  Skrine. 

Knighton,  9  miles.  Wyndham.  ] 

RADNOR  (NEW),  or  Maes-yfed-newydd^Is  a  borough  and  parish  hav¬ 
ing  separate  jurisdiction,  which  has  long  been  reduced  to  a  village,  containing 
but  very  few  houses,  and  those  few  ill  arranged,  situated  in  a  district  called 
the  Liberties  of  the  Town,  Radnorshire.  In  1831  the  population  of  the 
borough  and  township  was  472.  The  Market  has  also  been  discontinued. 
The  fairs  are  held  on  Tuesday  before  Holy  Thursday,  Tuesday  after  Tri¬ 
nity  Sunday,  Aug.  14.,  Oct.  28.,  and  29-  The  parish  contains  3750  acres. 
This  village  is  placed  near  the  brook  Somergill,  at  the  entrance  of  the  pass 
from  the  mountainous  part  of  the  county  to  the  fertile  vale  of  Radnor. 
We  are  informed  by  Caradog  that  about  the  year  990,  Meredydd  ah  Owain 
destroyed  the  town  of  Radnor  in  a  ferocious  contest  with  his  nephew,  who 
had  been  assisting  the  English  to  ravage  S.  Wales.  There  are  still  some 
remains  of  its  castle  upon  an  eminence  commanding  the  town  ;  and  about 
the  year  1773,  on  its  site,  six  or  seven  small  pointed  arches  of  good  masonry 
were  discovered, with  several  ancient  instruments.  The  entrenchments  ai-e 
nearly  entire.  The  outer  ward,  called  Baili  Glas,  or  the  Green  Court  Yard, 
is  still  distinct  from  the  keep.  About  1788,  when  the  turnpike-road  was 
made,  some  workmen  discovered  among  the  rubbish  several  cannon  balls, 
and  two  battle  axes.  The  building  was  demolished  by  the  parliamentary 
forces  in  the  civil  wars.  The  site  of  the  town  walls,  and  the  moat  are 
visible,  particularly  on  the  w.  and  s.  sides.  The  area  of  the  town  enclosed 
was  an  oblong  square,  containing  about  twenty-six  acres  of  ground.  It 
seems  to  have  been  laid  out  into  three  longitudinal  streets,  called  High 
Street,  Broad  Street,  and  W ater  Street,  intersected  by  five  transverse  ones. 
Several  of  these  have  no  buildings,  and  some  of  them  are  only  footpaths. 
Its  decline  may  be  ascribed  first  to  its  ceasing  to  be  kept  fortified  and  gar¬ 
risoned  as  a  frontier  town,  its  proximity  to  Presteign  and  Kington,  its 
cold  situation  and  scarcity  of  fuel.  As  this  place  declined,  Presteign  im¬ 
proved,  and  became  the  principal  town  in  the  county.  Old  Radnor  was 
burnt  about  the  close  of  the  12th  century  ;  about  a  century  after,  in  the 
time  of  the  rebellion  against  Henry  IV.,  New  Radnor  shared  the  same  fate, 
and  has  never  been  restored.  The  Town  Hall  and  Prison  are  opposite  one 
to  the  other,  in  Broad  Street.  The  Corporation  consists  of  a  bailiff,  twenty- 
five  capital  burgesses,  two  aldermen,  a  recorder,  coroner,  town-clerk,  and 
other  officers.  The  bailiff’s  courts  and  petit  sessions  are  regularly  holden 
every  Monday ;  and  the  quarter  sessions  for  the  borough  on  the  Monday  in 
the  second  week  after  Epiphany,  Easter,  July  T.,  and  Michaelmas.  The 
Sheriff’s  county  courts  for  the  recovery  of  small  debts  under  406“.,  are  held 
here  alternately  with  Presteign.  A  representative  for  the  borough  is  chosen 
by  the  burgesses  of  New  Radnor,  in  conjunction  with  the  contributaries 
Presteign,  Knighton,  PJiaiadyr,  Cefn  Llys,  and  Cnwclas.  The  Church  stands 
upon  an  eminence  just  below  the  castle.  It  is  a  small  edifice  consisting  of 


RADNOR. 


521 


a  nave,  a  side  aisle,  on  the  s.  side,  and  a  chancel.  It  has  a  tower  contain¬ 
ing  four  large  hells,  a  smaller  one,  and  a  clock.  The  side  aisle  is  separated 
from  the  nave  by  five  octagon  pillars  and  pointed  arches.  The  tower  and 
considerable  part  of  the  church,  were  erected  upon  a  portion  of  wall  which 
was  probably  part  of  a  former  church,  supposed  to  be  coeval  with  the 
castle.  Leland  says,  there  is  an  olde  churche  stondynge  now  as  a  chapell 
by  the  Castle.  Not  very  farre  thens  is  the  new  Paroche  Church  buildyd 
by  one  William  Backefield  and  Flora  his  wyfe.”  The  tower  was  originally 
higher.  Inn^  The  Cross.  It  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  could 
procure  a  slight  breakfast,  or  even  provender  for  our  horses  ;  and  when 
obtained  we  were  required  to  pay  for  them  like  Englishmen.”  (^Lipscomb.) 
The  Forest  of  Radnor  rises  immediately  from  the  n.  of  the  town  to  a  very 
considerable  height.  From  a  prominent  part  of  this  eminence,  which  is 
opposite  to  a  place  called  the  Wimble,  are  very  extensive  prospects. 
Upp)er  Downton,  a  modern  built  seat  of  Sir  W.  Colborn,  1  m.  s.  e.  from 
the  town.  Harpton  Court,  Right  Hon.  Thomas  Frankland  Lewis,  1  m.  s. 
of  the  last.  Water -break-its-neck,  a  celebrated  cataract  of  70  ft.  in  height, 
is  situated  2  m.  w.  of  the  town,  and  much  visited  by  travellers.  A  path 
along  the  side  of  a  steep  mountain,  with  a  brook,  rolling  below,  leads  to 
the  entrance  of  the  chasm.  The  grandeur  of  the  scene  is  much  heightened 
by  an  insulated  mass  of  rock  20  ft.  high,  standing  erect  above  the  great 
waterfall.  The  spring  rises  at  no  great  distance  from  the  cascade,  and  at 
some  seasons  is  nearly  dry.  The  road  to  Radnor  may  be  regained  by 
pursuing  a  narrow  path  on  the  side  of  this  alpine  ridge,  where  it  enters  an 
enclosed  country  under  the  promontory  of  Llandegle  Rocks,  which  resem¬ 
ble  Crockern  Torr  and  Brent  Torr,  in  Cornwall  and  Devonshire  ;  there  is 
a  path  over  the  hills  to  Pen-y~bont,  but  the  general  course  is  to  return  to 
Radnor.  There  is  an  intrenched  dike.  Ditch  Bank,  at  the  w.  extremity  of 
the  parish,  1  m.  from  the  town,  which  was  continued  from  one  side  of  the 
narrow  vale  to  the  other.  Tradition  preserves  the  remembrance  of  a  battle, 
fought  at  a  short  distance  e.  ;  the  spot  is  called  War  Close. 

Old  Radnor,  or  Maes-y-fed-hen,  is  a  station  3  m.  s.,  supposed  by 
Camden,  to  have  been  the  Magnos  of  Antoninus,  and  garrisoned  by  the 
Phaciensian  regiment,  in  the  reign  of  Theodosius  the  Younger.  Its  decline 
is  dated  from  the  rebellion  of  Owain  Glyndwr,  who  destroyed  the  castle 
and  ravaged  all  the  surrounding  district.  Horsley  denies  that  it  is  of 
Roman  origin.  The  Church  is  a  venerable  edifice,  with  a  large  tower  and 
six  bells.  It  is  built  upon  a  rock,  whence  it  has  been  called  Pen-y-graig, 
the  Summit  of  a  Rock.”  It  is  a  large  stone  building,  consisting  of  a  nave 
and  chancel,  with  some  monuments  to  the  memory  of  the  family  at  Harp- 
ton  Court.  The  font  is  noticed  on  account  of  the  largeness  of  its  bowl,  and 
some  external  carving.  A  curious  screen  richly  carved  in  wood,  contrary 
to  the  usual  custom  of  church  architecture,  extends  across  the  nave,  and 
two  side  aisles.  This  district  abounds  with  lime.  The  geological  form¬ 
ations  of  the  county  chiefly  belong  to  the  Silurian  system,  lately  discovered 
and  described  by  Mr.  Murchison ;  on  the  w.  side  of  the  county,  however, 
the  slate  rocks  of  the  Cambrian  system  make  their  appearance  at  Llan¬ 
degle,  Old  Radnor,  and  other  places.  Trap  and  other  igneous  rocks  have 
much  disturbed  the  adjacent  members  of  the  Silurian  system,  presenting  in¬ 
teresting  geological  phenomena.  The  mineral  waters  of  Llandrindod  and 
Llandegley  probably  owe  their  origin  to  these  outbreaks.  Although  the 
newest  formations  of  the  county  consist  of  the  members  of  the  Silurian  sys¬ 
tem,  and  are  therefore  of  older  date  than  the  carboniferous  strata,  various 
attempts  have  from  time  to  time  been  made,  and  are  still  carried  on,  for  the 


522 


RAGLAND. 


search  of  coal  at  Llandegley,  Weythall  Common,  near  Old  Radnor,  &c.  and 
the  deluded  inhabitants,  stimulated  by  the  assertions  of  ignorant  or  design¬ 
ing  engineers  and  colliers,  are  induced  to  employ  their  time  and  capital  in 
this  hopeless  speculation.  Lime  of  the  best  quality  occurs  at  Old  Radnor 
and  Nash,  near  Presteign.”  Five  specimens  of  iron  ore,  of  different  kinds, 
have  been  recently  obtained  in  the  parish  of  Gladestry,  Radnorshire. 

On  the  great  road  to  Rhaiadyr,  at  1^  m.  over  the  Mynd-Mountain  is 
the  little  village  of  Llanvihangel-nant-melin,  the  most  beautiful  village  in 
the  county,  m.  2  m.  to  the  n.  w.  is  a  mineral  well  called  Blaen  Edw^ 
and  between  the  mountains  to  the  r.  the  cascade  called  Water -hreak~its- 
neck.  This  vicinity  is  rural  and  well  wooded.  Thus  far  the  road  between 
New  Radnor  and  Builth  is  retraced.  The  road  towards  Rhaiadyr,  how¬ 
ever,  separates  on  the  r.  Pass  by  Elanerch  and  Forest  of  Radnor  to 
Gwern  V  Arglwydd,  2  m.  1  fur.  Cross  an  open  country  to  Llandegle, 
2  m,,  a  village  consisting  of  but  few  houses,  but  those  are  interestingly 
placed.  A  painted  post  on  the  r.  points  to  Llandegle  Wells,  a  sulphu¬ 
reous  vitriolic  water,  which  rises  in  a  field  near  the  road.  A  little  way 
further,  just  by  Falden,  cross  the  small  river  Carnau  which  falls  into  the 
Ithon  a  little  below.  Pen-y-bont,  1  m.  7  fur.  This  village  is  situated  in 
Radnorshire,  on  the  high  road  from  London  to  Aberystwith.  [See  p.  500.] 
About  4  rn.  to  the  s.  w.  is  Llandrindod.  On  the  direct  road  to¬ 
wards  Rhaiadyr  beyond  Pen-y-bont  is  Cefn,  or  the  Court  House  Hill. 
Camden  says  that  there  were  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  fortress  when  he 
wrote,  upon  a  bank  of  the  Ithon,  which  almost  surrounds  the  house,  except 
on  one  side,  where  it  lies  open  to  the  common.  This  is  an  admirable 
situation  of  defence,  and  before  the  invention  of  modern  artillery,  must 
have  been  almost  impregnable.  Close  by  is  Llanbadarn-fawr.  The 
country  here  is  dreary,  but  improves  as  you  reach  the  parish  of  JVantmel, 
Honey  Brook,’"  5^-  m.,  the  church  of  which  forms  an  interesting  object 
from  several  points  of  view.  Between  Llanbadarn-fawr  and  Nantmel,  the 
road  crosses  the  Clywedog,  another  tributary  to  the  Ithon,  which  rises 
above  Abbey -cwm-Mr,  in  a  delightful  and  fertile  dell,  about  7  m.  to  the 
N.  E.  Hendre  Each,  m.  is  the  only  spot  worth  attention  before  the 
approach  to  Rhaiadyr.  The  descent  to  it  is  truly  grand. 

The  Great  Road  to  Builth  lies  through  Llanvihangel-nant-melin,  2  m. 
5  f .  (on  the  r.  to  Rhaiadyr,  l6|  m.  ;  and  Aberystwith,  45f  m). —  Cross 
the  Eddw  river  which  falls  into  the  Wye,  to  Boilyhuchan,  4^  m..  New- 
house,  5  fur.,  Pen-y-groes,  ^  m.  Cross  the  Wye  to  Builth,  3  m.  1  fur. 

Fishing  Stations. —  Gwiller,  2  m.,  near  the  source  of  the  Somergill,  ex¬ 
cellent;  Llanvihangel-nant-melin,  2]y  m. ;  Old  Radnor,  2\  m.,  on  the 
SomergiU  and  Hendwell,  both  celebrated  for  their  trout  and  eels. 

To  Rhaiadyr,  19  miles.  Malkin;  Lipscomb.  To  Builth,  miles.  Skrine. 

Hay,  through  Glascwra  and  New  Church,  17  Kington,  6|  miles, 
miles.  Wyndham. 


RAGLAND. 

From  Usk,  5  miles.  Coxe;  Barber  ;  Skrine.  j  From  Abergavenny,  10  m.  Wyndham;  Evans. 

RAGLAND,  in  Monmouthshire,  is  a  village  which  lies  mid-way  on  the 
road  from  Monmouth  to  Abergavenny.  (^Eoccursions,  p.  325.)  The  Rev. 
Mr.  Gilpin  says,  that  from  the  venerable  castle,  the  views  are  extensive, 
the  roads  inclosed,  and  the  country  rich.  The  distances  are  skirted  by  the 


RAGLAND. 


523 


Brecknock  Hills  ;  among  which  the  Skyrrid  makes  a  remarkable  appearance. 
These  elevations  are  little  more  than  gentle  swellings,  cultivated  to  the 
summit.  For  many  miles  they  keep  their  station  in  a  distant  range  on  each 
side  ;  but  by  degrees  they  begin  to  close  in,  approximating  more  and 
more,  leaving  a  narrow  pass  between  them,  through  which  an  extensive 
country  appears.  Through  this  pass  we  hoped  the  progress  of  our  route 
would  lead  us,  as  it  seemed  to  open  into  a  fair  and  beautiful  country.  It 
led  us  first  to  Abergavenny.  The  particular  details  are  these,  according  to 
my  notes  taken  on  the  spot:  1-i-  m.  out  of  Ragland,  tame  and  common-place  ; 
2  m.  the  Skyrrid  on  the  r.  of  the  foreground  presents  a  very  magnificent 
aspect,  and  is  a  curious  novelty  in  the  scene.  The  Sugar-loaf  in  the  clouds 
behind  rises  very  sharply.  The  foreground  opens,  and  forms  a  very  inte¬ 
resting  view.  A  ridge  of  hills  is  close  to  the  middle-ground.” 

The  Castle  is  situated  amidst  the  lowland  part  of  the  county,  and  may 
be  visited  from  Chepstow,  Monmouth,  Abergavenny  and  Usk,  with  perfect 
ease.  The  remains  of  this  once  magnificent  edifice  stand  upon  a  gentle 
eminence  near  the  village.  At  some  distance  the  ruins  appear  but  a  shape¬ 
less  mass,  half  hid  by  intervening  trees ;  on  a  nearer  approach,  they  assume 
a  more  distinct  form,  and  present  an  assemblage  highly  beautiful  and  grand. 
The  Citadel  or  Keep,  originally  called  Twr  Melyn-y-Gwent,  or  Yellow 
Tower  of  Gwent,  is  a  detached  building  to  the  s.  of  the  castle,  half 
demolished,  but  was  hexagonal,  five  stories  high,  defended  by  bastions, 
surrounded  with  a  moat,  and  connected  with  the  castle  by  a  drawbridge. 
A  stone  staircase  leads  to  the  top  of  a  remaining  tower,  whence  may  be 
seen  the  contiguous  outworks,  the  majestic  ruins  of  the  castle,  and  an 
extensive  tract  of  country,  hounded  by  distant  hills  and  mountains,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Abergavenny.  The  citadel  was  surrounded  with  raised 
walks ;  in  the  walls  with  which  they  were  bounded  are  vestiges  of  niches, 
once  containing  statues.  The  shell  of  the  castle  incloses  two  courts,  each  of 
which  communicate  with  the  terrace  by  means  of  a  gateway,  and  a  bridge 
carried  over  the  moat.  The  edifice  was  faced  with  hewn  freestone,  which 
has  received  little  injury  from  time,  and  gives  an  elegant  appearance  to  the 
ruins.  The  principal  entrance  is  the  most  magnificent ;  it  is  formed  by  a 
Gothic  portal,  fianked  with  two  massive  towers  ;  one  is  beautifully  tufted 
with  ivy,  the  other  is  entirely  covered.  At  a  short  distance  on  the  r.  appears 
a  third  tower,  lower  in  height,  almost  without  ivy,  with  a  machiolated 
summit.  The  porch  which  leads  into  the  first  court  contains  grooves  for 
portcullises,  and  was  once  paved.  The  e.  and  n.  sides  contained  a  range 
of  culinary  offices,  among  which  the  kitchen  is  remarkable  for  the  size  of 
the  fire-place  ;  the  s.  side  seems  to  have  formed  a  grand  suite  of  apartments. 
The  bow  window  of  the  hall  at  the  s.  w.  extremity  of  the  court  is  finely 
canopied  with  ivy.  The  stately  hall  which  divides  the  two  courts  seems  of 
the  time  of  Elizabeth.  It  was  the  great  banqueting  room  of  the  castle. 
At  one  end  are  the  arms  of  the  first  Marquis  of  VYorcester.  Underneath 
is  the  family  motto— ‘‘Mutare  vel  timere  sperno.”  (I  scorn  either  to  change 
or  fear.)  To  the  n.  of  the  hall  are  ranges  of  offices,  which  appear  to  have 
been  butteries :  beyond  are  traces  of  splendid  apartments.  In  the  walls 
above  are  two  chimney-pieces  in  high  preservation,  with  elegant  mouldings. 
The  w.  door  of  the  hall  led  into  the  Chapel,  which  is  dilapidated,  but  its 
situation  is  identified  by  some  of  the  flying  columns,  rising  from  grotesque 
heads,  which  supported  the  roof.  At  the  upper  end  are  two  rude  whole- 
length  figures  in  stone,  several  yards  above  the  ground.  Beyond  the 
foundations  of  the  chapel  is  the  area  of  the  second  court,  skirted  with  a 
range  of  buildings,  which  at  the  time  of  the  siege  formed  the  barracks  of 


524 


RAGLAND. 


the  garrison.  Not  the  smallest  traces  remain  of  the  marble  fountain,  which 
once  occupied  the  centre  of  the  area.  The  vaults  and  subterraneous  cells 
under  the  hall^  courts,  and  surrounding  apartments  are  considerable.  From 
the  second  court,  a  bridge  thrown  across  the  moat  leads  to  the  platform, 
or  Terrace,  which  almost  surrounds  the  citadel ;  the  s.  w.  side  is  still  per¬ 
fect,  and  forms  a  very  broad  walk  about  SOO  ft.  in  length,  commanding 
a  pleasing  and  extensive  view.  At  one  extremity  stood  an  ancient  elm, 
measuring  near  the  foot  26  ft.  in  circumference,  probably  one  which  sur¬ 
vived  the  other  portion  of  a  row.  Tradition  points  this  out  as  the  scene  of 
many  a  conference  between  the  monarch  and  his  venerable  entertainers. 
The  shape  of  the  outwo7'ks  and  their  dimensions  may  be  traced  by  the 
remains  of  bastions,  hornworks,  trenches,  and  ramparts. 

A  curious  account  of  the  ancient  state  of  the  castle  is  given  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Jones,  formerly  minister  of  Ragland:  —  In  a  direct  line  were  three 
gates;  the  first  of  brick,  from  which,  at  the  distance  of  180  ft.,  by  the 
ascent  of  many  steps,  was  the  White  Gate,  built  of  square  stone,  150  ft. 
from  the  castle.  At  some  distance,  on  the  1.  side,  stands  the  tower 
Melyn-y-Gwent,  The  Yellow  Tower  of  Gwent;  which  for  height,  strength, 
and  neatness,  surpassed  most,  if  not  every  other,  tower  in  England  or 
Wales.  It  had  six  outsides;  that  is,  it  was  of  a  hexagonal  form,  each 
32  ft.  broad,  the  walls  10  ft.  thick,  all  made  of  square  stone,  well  built,  in 
height  five  stories,  and  commanded  a  delightful  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  Its  battlements  being  but  8  in.  thick,  were  soon  broken  by  the 
shot  of  great  guns ;  but  the  tower  itself  received  little  or  no  damage  from 
bullets  of  18  or  20  lb.  weight,  at  the  rate  of  sixty  shot  a  day.  This  tower 
was  joined  to  the  castle  by  a  sumptuous  arched  bridge,  encompassed  about 
with  an  out- wall,  with  six  arched  turrets,  with  battlements,  all  of  square 
stone,  adjoining  to  a  deep  moat  30  ft.  broad,  wherein  was  placed  an  arti¬ 
ficial  water-work,  which  spouted  up  to  the  height  of  the  castle.  Next  unto 
it  was  a  pleasant  walk,  set  forth  with  several  figures  of  the  Roman  Empe¬ 
rors,  in  arches  of  divers  varieties  of  shell-work.  Within  the  walls  and 
the  green  adjoining  (then  the  bowling-green,  being  12  ft.  higher  than 
the  walk,)  on  the  r.  hand,  was  a  garden  plat,  answerable  in  proportion 
to  the  tower.  Next  unto  this  plat  stood  the  stables  and  barns,  lately 
built  like  a  small  town.  The  castle  gate  hath  a  fair  square  tower  on  each 
side,  with  battlements,  having  four  arched  rooms  one  above  the  other, 
conjoined  over  the  gates  with  two  arches,  one  above  the  other.  Within 
this  gate  was  the  Pitched  Stone  Court,  120  ft.  long  and  58  ft.  broad. 
On  the  r.  side  thereof  was  the  Closet  Tower ;  like  the  former,  it  had 
three  arched  rooms,  of  1 8  ft.  in  the  clear  inside  in  every  way.  Straight 
forward  was  the  way  to  the  Kitchen  Tower,  of  six  outsides,  each  25  ft. 
broad  ;  the  kitchen  25  ft.  in  the  clear  inside,  and  about  20  ft.  high,  having 
two  chimnies,  besides  the  boiler.  The  wet  larder  under  it  arched,  of  the 
same  dimensions,  and  the  room  above  likewise  done.  About  the  middle  of  this 
pitched  stone  court  was  the  passage  into  the  Stately  Hall,  66  ft.  Jong,  and 
28  ft,  broad,  having  a  rare  geometrical  roof,  built  with  Irish  oak,  with  a 
large  cupola  on  the  top  for  light,  besides  a  compass  vundow,  l6  ft.  high  in 
the  light,  and  as  much  in  compass,  with  two  or  three  large  windows  more 
at  the  upper  end.  On  the  r.  side  was  the  way  to  the  Parlour,  being  49  ft. 
long,  and  21  ft.  broad,  which  was  noted  as  well  for  the  fair  inside  wains- 
coats,  and  curious  carved  figures,  as  also  for  the  rare  and  artificial  stone¬ 
work  of  the  fiat  arch,  in  a  large  and  fair  compass  window  on  the  s.  side, 
beaten  down  by  the  enemy’s  great  guns,  and  two  great  windows  at  each 
end.  Before  the  entrance  into  the  parlour,  on  the  r.  side,  were  the  stairs 


RAGLAND. 


525 


to  the  Dining  Room,  of  the  same  proportion  as  the  parlour.  On  the 
other  side  was  the  door  to  the  Gallery,  126  ft.  long^  having  many  fair 
windows,  but  the  most  pleasant  was  the  window  at  the  farthest  end. 
That  part  of  the  castle  standing  out  like  a  tower,  being  about  60  ft. 
high,  was  the  most  pleasant  for  aspect.  Under  the  stairs  was  the  way  to 
the  Beer  Cellar,  ft.  long,  and  15  ft.  broad.  Then  to  the  Wme  Cellar, 
43 ft.  long,  and  l6,}  ft.  broad.  There  were  three  cellars  more,  one  as 
large  as  the  former,  all  well  arched.  At  the  low'er  end  of  the  hall  was  the 
Buttery,  32  ft.  long,  and  18  ft.  broad ;  next  unto  it  the  Pantry,  of  like 
size.  At  the  entrance  of  the  hall,  straight  forward  by  the  Chapel,  40  ft.  long. 
On  the  1.  hand  was  a  large  Court,  100  ft.  long,  and  60  ft.  broad,  particu¬ 
larly  arched  and  carved  like  the  paved  court,  very  remarkable  not  only  for 
the  curious  carved  stone-work  of  the  walls  and  windows,  but  also  for  the 
pleasant  Marble  Fountain  in  the  midst  thereof,  called  The  White  Horse, 
continually  running  with  clear  water.  Thence  through  a  fair  gate,  under 
a  large  square  tower,  artificially  arched  with  carved  stone  works.  Over  a 
bridge  40  ft.  long,  with  two  arches,  is  the  way  to  the  Bowling  Green, 
260  ft.  long,  and  77  ft«  broad,  much  admired  by  his  late  majesty  (King 
Charles  I.)  for  its  situation  w.,  now  towards  Abergavenny,  and  the  meadows 
towards  Chepstow  was  a  most  charming  prospect.  At  the  w.  end  stood  a 
large  oak,  with  large  boughs,  affording  a  fine  shade  in  summer.  Near 
which  was  the  way  to  the  Grand  Terrace  Walks,  and  pleasant  gardens,  and 
fair  built  summer-houses,  with  delightful  walks,  430  ft.  long  ;  beneath 
which  was  situated  a  very  large  Fish-Pond,  of  many  acres  of  land,  orna¬ 
mented  in  several  parts,  with  divers  artificial  islands  and  walks;  near  which 
stood  a  charming  Orchard,  400  ft.  long,  and  100  ft.  broad,  planted  with 
the  choicest  fruit  trees.  There  were  many  towers  besides  the  Tower  Melyn, 
all  of  square  stone,  one  whereof  was  placed  on  corbels,  i.  c.  on  the  out¬ 
side,  having  several  turrets,  one  above  the  other,  and  four  in  the  gateway 
leading  to  the  great  park,  which  had  adjoining  to  it  a  Warren,  and  several 
large  and  well  stocked  fish-ponds.  The  Park  was  thick,  planted  with  fine 
maiden  oaks,  and  large  beech  trees,  and  richly  stocked  with  all  kinds  of  deer.'’ 

The  earliest  style  perceivable  in  the  building  is  not  anterior  to  the 
reign  of  Henry  V.,  and  the  more  modern  as  late  as  the  era  of  Charles  I.; 
the  fashion  of  the  arches,  doors,  and  windows,  and  the  style  of  the  orna¬ 
ments,  are  progressively  of  the  intermediate  ages.  Its  construction  may 
be  ascribed  principally  to  Sir  William  ap  Thomas,  and  his  son  the  Earl 
of  Pembroke.  Additions  were  made  by  the  Earls  of  Worcester;  but  the 
citadel  and  outworks  were  probably  added  by  the  Marquess  of  Worcester, 
who  last  resided  in  this  sumptuous  mansion.  The  first  marquess  supported 
here  a  garrison  of  800  men;  and  on  the  surrender  of  the  castle,  besides 
his  own  family  and  friends,  the  officers  alone  were  no  less  than  4  colonels, 
82  captains,  I6  lieutenants,  6  cornets,  4  ensigns,  and  4  quartermasters, 
besides  52  esquires  and  gentlemen.  The  demesnes  of  the  castle  corre¬ 
sponded  with  the  magnitude  of  the  establishment.  Besides  the  gardens  and 
pleasure  grounds  adjoining  the  mansion,  the  farms  were  numerous  and 
well  conditioned.  The  meadows  around  Llandenny  were  appropriated  to 
the  Dairy  ;  an  extensive  tract  formed  the  Home  Park,  and  the  Red  Deer 
Park  stretched  beyond  Llandeilo  Cressenny,  In  the  thirteenth  century, 
the  family  of  Clare  seem  to  have  possessed  a  castle  at  Ragland.  According 
to  Dugdale,  Richard  Strongbow,  the  last  male  of  this  puissant  line,  gave, 
in  the  reign  of  Henry  II.,  the  castle  and  manor  of  Ragland,  in  the  county 
of  Monmouth,  to  Walter  Bloet,  whose  daughter  brought  it  to  Sir  James 
Berkeley.  It  does  not,  however,  seem  to  have  continued  in  the  possession 


526 


RAGLAND. 


of  the  Berkeleys_,  for  Sir  William  ap  Thomas^  son  of  Maud^  daughter  of 
Sir  John  Morley^  by  Thomas  ap  Gwilym  ap  Jenkin^  who  was  seated  at 
LlansanflPraid,  was  proprietor  in  the  reign  of  Henry  V.  His  eldest  son, 
William,  was  created  by  Edward  IV.,  Lord  of  Ragland,  Chepstow,  and 
Gower,  and  was  commanded  to  assume  the  surname  of  Herbert,  in  honour 
of  his  ancestor,  Herbert  Fitz-Henry,  who  was  chamberlain  to  Henry  I. 
Edward  IV.  entrusted  him  with  the  custody  of  the  Earl  of  Richmond, 
afterwards  Henry  VII.,  who  v/as  detained  in  the  castle  of  Ragland  for  some 
time.  In  1469  Lord  Herbert  was  created  Earl  of  Pembroke,  and  exerted 
himself  by  raising  an  army  of  Welshmen  to  oppose  the  Lancastrians  under 
the  Earl  of  W arwick.  Being  taken  prisoner  at  the  battle  of  Danes  Moor, 
he  was  beheaded  at  Banbury.  He  met  his  fate  with  the  most  noble  forti¬ 
tude  and  resignation.  His  eldest  son  William  inherited  his  titles  and 
estates.  Dying  in  1491  without  male  issue,  his  daughter  and  heiress, 
Elizabeth,  conveyed  to  her  husband.  Sir  Charles  Somerset,  the  castle  of 
Ragland  and  other  estates.  He  w'^as  natural  son  of  Henry  Beaufort,  Duke 
of  Somerset,  w^ho  was  beheaded  in  1463,  for  his  adherence  to  the  house  of 
Lancaster.  After  being  engaged  in  many  important  affairs  of  state  dur¬ 
ing  the  reigns  of  Henry  VII.  and  VIII.,  he  died  in  1526  full  of  ho¬ 
nours,  in  an  advanced  age,  and  was  buried  in  the  chapel  of  Windsor. 
Ragland  Castle  continued  to  be  the  principal  residence  of  his  posterity. 
His  descent  from  royalty  entitled  him  to  assume  the  arms  of  England, 
which  are  still  borne  by  his  illustrious  descendant,  the  present  Duke  of 
Beaufort.  Ragland  Castle  is  greatly  distinguished  in  the  annals  of  English 
history,  from  the  siege  which  it  withstood  against  the  parliamentary  army, 
under  the  command  of  Fairfax.  It  was  valiantly  defended  by  Henry,  first 
Marquess  of  Worcester,  and,  notwithstanding  its  extensive  outworks  and 
scanty  garrison,  had  the  honour  of  being  almost  the  last  fortress  in  the 
kingdom  reduced  by  the  republican  troops.  Henry,  fifth  earl,  and  first 
Marquess  of  Worcester,  was  born  in  1562,  and  summoned  to  the  first 
parliament  of  King  James.  He  was  created  Marquess  of  W orcester  in 
l642.  During  the  civil  commotions,  Charles  I.  made  several  visits  to 
Ragland  Castle,  and  was  entertained  with  becoming  magnificence.  At  one 
time  the  king  being  apprehensive  lest  the  stores  of  the  garrison  should  be 
consumed  by  his  suite,  empowered  him  to  exact  from  the  country  such 
provisions  as  were  necessary  for  his  remuneration.  I  humbly  thank 
your  majesty,”  he  answered,  but  my  castle  wmuld  not  long  stand  if  it 
leaned  upon  the  country  ;  I  had  rather  be  brought  to  a  morsel  of  bread, 
than  that  any  morsels  of  bread  should  be  exacted  from  others.”  Soon 
after  the  king’s  retreat  from  Monmouthshire,  the  castle  was  slightly  in¬ 
vested  by  Sir  Trevor  'Williams,  and  threatened  by  Colonel  Morgan,  who 
advanced  from  M^orcester  at  the  head  of  a  formidable  detachment.  The 
aged  marquess  refused  to  surrender  after  two  successive  summonses.  Sir 
Thomas  Fairfax  came  from  Bath,  the  approaches  were  carried  on  with 
great  vigour,  the  marquess  was  compelled  to  surrender,  and  was  carried 
prisoner  to  London,  where  he  died,  aged  85.  His  estates  valued  at 
20,000k  a  year,  w'ere  confiscated.  On  the  restoration,  these  estates  were 
recovered  by  the  family  ;  but  Ragland  Castle  had  been  dismantled  by  the 
parliamentary  army.  The  numerous  tenants  in  the  vicinity  also  conveyed 
away  the  stone  for  the  construction  of  farm-houses,  barns,  &c.  Not  less  than 
twenty-three  staircases  were  taken  down  by  these  devastators  ;  but  the  Duke 
of  Beaufort  had  no  sooner  succeeded  to  the  estate,  than  he  ordered  that  a 
stone  should  not  be  removed  from  its  situation.  A  fine  library  was 
destroyed  here  by  the  infamously  ignorant  soldiery  of  Cromwell.  The 


RAGLAND. 


527 

exquisite  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  mountains  around  Abergavenny^  as 
seen  from  the  vicinity  of  Ragland  Castle^  can  scarcely  be  exceeded.  The 
hand  of  man  has  aided  time  in  heightening  the  general  effect  of  this 
ancient  structure,  by  clothing  some  portions  with  ivy,  judiciously  pruned 
when  too  luxuriant,  intermixed  with  roses,  jessamine,  and  other  sweet¬ 
smelling  parasitical  plants.  In  surveying  this  proud  monument  of  feudal 
splendour  and  magnificence,  the  very  genius  of  chivalry  seems  to  present 
himself  amidst  the  venerable  remains  with  a  sternness  and  majesty  of  air 
and  feature  which  show  what  he  once  has  been,  and  a  mixture  of  disdain 
for  the  degenerate  posterity  that  robbed  him  of  his  honours.  Amidst  such 
a  scene,  the  manly  exercises  of  knighthood  recur  to  the  imagination  in  their 
full  pomp  and  solemnity  ;  while  every  patriot  feeling  beats  at  the  remem¬ 
brance  of  the  generous  virtues  which  were  nursed  in  these  schools  of  forti¬ 
tude,  honour,  courtesy,  and  wit,  the  mansions  of  our  ancient  nobility.” 
(^DallawayJ)  The  Church  of  Ragland,  dedicated  to  St.  David,  is  a  neat 
stone  building,  in  the  pointed  Norman  style,  with  a  square  embattled  tower, 
and  stands  in  the  middle  of  the  village.  A  chapel  on  the  n.  side  of  the 
chancel  was  formerly  a  cemetery  of  the  Beaufort  family,  and  several  of  the 
earls  of  Worcester  are  here  interred.  The  first  was  William,  third  Earl  of 
Worcester,  who  in  1549  succeeded  his  father  Henry,  at  the  age  of  22,  in 
his  honours  and  estates.  He  died  on  the  21st  of  February,  1588,  and  was 
buried  at  Ragland,  but  there  are  no  traces  of  his  monument.  The  second 
Earl  of  Worcester  interred  here  was  Edward,  son  of  the  preceding.  He 
died  in  London,  and  his  corpse  was  conveyed  to  Ragland,  March  SO  1628. 
Two  headless  and  mutilated  alabaster  figures  of  a  man,  with  a  collar  of  the 
garter,  and  of  a  woman,  some  irons  from  which  the  banners  were  suspen¬ 
ded,  an  ancient  helmet,  a  portcullis,  and  the  crest  of  the  Beaufort  family, 
were  almost  all  that  remained  of  a  splendid  monument  to  the  memory 
of  this  personage.  The  third  whose  ashes  repose  in  this  church  is  Edward, 
the  sixth  Earl,  and  second  Marquess  of  Worcester,  who  is  very  eminent  in 
the  history  of  those  times.  In  addition  to  his  hereditary  titles,  he  was 
created  Earl  of  Glamorgan.  In  the  latter  part  of  his  life  he  left  off  all 
interference  in  state  affairs,  and  devoted  himself  to  literary  pursuits.  In 
1663  he  published  ‘'‘A  Century  of  the  Names  and  Scantlings  of  such 
Inventions  as  I  can  at  present  call  to  mind  to  have  tried  and  perfected.” 
Captain  Savory,  the  reputed  inventor  of  the  steam  engine,  appears  to  have 
gained  this  wonderful  machine  from  the  marquess’s  sixty-eighth  article  in 
the  Century  of  Scantlings.”  Dr.  Desaguliers  says  that  Savery,  in  order  to 
conceal  his  original,  bought  up  the  marquess’s  books,  and  burnt  them. 
Probably  it  is  on  this  account  that  this  work  is  extremely  scarce.  It  is, 
however,  given  in  the  J  8th  volume  of  the  Gentleman’s  Magazine,  and  has 
since  been  frequently  reprinted.  (See  Fosbrooke’s  Ragland  Tour,”  pub¬ 
lished  by  Farror,  Monmouth.) 

Four  m.  s.  w.  from  Ragland  stands  Cefntilla,  rendered  remarkable  from 
having  been  the  head-quarters  of  General  Thomas  Fairfax  during  the 
siege  of  the  castle.  Cefntilla  is  a  large  freestone  edifice,  of  a  dark  stucco 
colour,  with  a  spacious  court,  formerly  inclosed  by  a  high  wall.  The 
state-room  measures  10  yards  by  6i.  At  the  upper  end  is  an  elegant  fire¬ 
place  bearing  the  date  l6l6.  Pursuing  the  road  from  Ragland  to  Usk, 
3  m.  at  a  public-house  called  Taylor’s  Hall,  a  lane  on  the  1.  leads  directly 
to  it. 

On  the  road  to  Chepstow  a  long  ascent  occurs,  from  the  summit  of 
which  is  an  extensive  view  over  the  central  parts  of  Monmouthshire,  an 
undulating  tract  of  uncommon  fertility  and  high  cultivation.  Another 


528 


RAGLAND. 


considerable  height  about  3  m.  further  commands  a  similar  view^  from 
which  at  a  short  distance  is  the  summit  of  Devauden,  a  remarkable  eleva¬ 
tion^  whence  a  most  extensive  view  may  be  had^  not  only  over  the  country 
N.  but  in  the  opposite  direction_,  over  the  British  channel  and  its  opposing 
shores.  The  Chapel  of  Devauden  is  an  unpretending  oblong  building, 
having  an  entrance  porch  surmounted  by  a  tower  with  one  bell.  To 
those  who  knew  it  as  a  school-room  it  was  a  matter  of  astonishment  to  see 
what  the  taste  and  judgment  of  the  architect  Mr.  Wyatt  could  effect.  A 
permanent  endowment  was  raised  by  the  publication  of  a  memoir  of  James 
Davies,  who  affords  a  remarkable  instance  how  those  in  humble  circum¬ 
stances  may  become  eminently  serviceable  in  the  promotion  of  Christian 
knowledge,  and  a  blessing  to  the  neighbourhood  wherein  their  lot  is 
cast ;  as  poor  yet  making  many  rich !  ”  Descending  into  an  agreeable 
valley,  the  opposite  hills  of  which  are  clothed  with  wild  forest  trees,  the 
decayed  town  of  Shire  Newtown  occupies  the  summit  of  a  high  hill 
bordering  the  vale.  Passing  about  half  way  towards  the  village  of  Cne/r, 
turn  off  the  road  to  visit  Wrunston,  an  ecclesiastical  ruin  concealed  in  a 
sequestered  thicket.  The  picturesque  remnant  of  a  small  chapel  is  the 
only  existing  part.  From  Crick  occurs  an  old  Roman  causeway. 

From  Ragland  Castle,  Mr.  Skrine  pursued  the  Chepstow  road  for  the 
purpose  of  ascending  the  high  ridge  of  Devauden,  and  contemplating  the 
charming  prospects  thence.  On  this  summit  he  fell  in  with  the  road  to 
Monmouth,  which  he  reached  after  a  descent  of  3  m. 

On  the  way  to  Abergavenny,  at  the  distance  of  3  m.  is  Cwrt  Robert. 
At  the  fourth  mile  a  grand  valley  opens  to  the  1.  consisting  of  woody 
knolls,  rich  meadows,  and  mountainous  background.  A  road  to  the  r.  leads 
to  Llanarth  Court,  the  seat  of  W.  Jones,  Esq.,  a  handsome  modern  struc¬ 
ture,  presenting  an  elegant  portico,  resembling  that  of  the  temple  of  Pa?stum. 
It  stands  upon  a  gentle  declivity.  In  descending  to  the  direct  road,  on  the 
r.  is  Clytha  House.  This  domain  exhibits  some  very  fine  park  scenery  with 
a  grand  range  of  mountains  in  front,  opening  beyond  the  Clytha.  The 
architect  was  Mr.  Edward  Haycock  of  Shrewsbury,  who  has  exhibited  simi¬ 
lar  good  taste  in  the  erection  of  the  Infirmary  there,  Hodnet  Rectory,  the 
seat  of  the  late  Bishop  Heber,  Orleton,  &c.  On  the  1.  is  a  ridge  with  rich 
cultivated  knolls  behind  the  Usk.  In  front  is  wide  marshy  meadow,  yet  full 
of  scattered  patches  of  wood.  Upon  an  eminence  on  the  1.  is  an  erection 
called  Clytha  Castle,  being  a  mausoleum  to  the  memory  of  the  heiress  of 
the  house  of  Tredegar,  who  with  her  hand  bestowed  a  splendid  fortune 
on  the  present  proprietor  of  Clytha  House.  The  entrance  to  the  grounds  is 
through  a  beautiful  light  Gothic  archway.  [See  Abergavenny,  p.  19-]  The 
clear  winding  stream  of  the  Usk,  here  opens,  amidst  a  rich  vale  of  land.  On 
the  1.  is  Pant-y-Goytre  House,  the  residence  of  E.  Bury,  Esq.,  backed  by  a 
little  hill  beautifully  wooded.  Llansanffraid  House,  on  the  r.,  is  the  seat 
of  James  Green,  Esq.  This  spot  is  remarkable  as  the  mansion  of  Thomas 
ap  Gwilym  ap  Jenkin,  from  whom  the  earls  of  Pembroke,  Powis,  and 
Caernarvon,  are  descended  by  the  male,  and  the  Dukes  of  Beaufort  by 
the  female  line.  He  died  here,  and  was  buried  in  the  church.  The  view 
from  the  lawn  is  extremely  pleasing;  it  commands  an  undulating  tract, 
rising  from  the  banks  of  the  Usk,  bounded  by  a  chain  of  fertile  emi¬ 
nences,  and  backed  by  hills  and  mountains.  Mr.  Fosbrooke  says,  At  the 
third  mile  from  Abergavenny,  a  grand  amphitheatrical  ridge  of  hill  fronts 
the  eye.  In  the  middle  distance  the  ridge  is  broken  by  a  long  elevation ; 
underneath  is  a  broad  expansive  valley.  At  the  second  m.  the  mountainous 
side  screen  becomes  uncommonly  grand  and  bold.  1  m.  a  close  distance 


RIIAIADYR. 


529 


of  mountains ;  beyond_,  wild  foreground,  and  rich  meadows  in  gentle 
knolls.”  On  the  1.  across  the  Usk  is  Llcmover  House,  the  seat  of  Benjamin 
W addington.  Esq. 


To  Caerwent,  13  miles.  Bingley  ;  Barber. 
Abergavenny,  10  miles.  Coxe, 


To  Striguil  Castle,  by  way  of  Usk,  U  m.  Evans, 
Monmouth,  8  miles.  Wyndhamj  Skrine. 


RHAIADYR. 


From  Radnor,  19  miles.  M  ilkin  ;  Lipscomb. 
Builth,  14  miles.  Barber;  Warner. 


From  Havod,  17  miles.  Skrine. 
Font-y-Mynach,  18  miles. 


RHAIADYR,  or  Rhaiadyr  Gwy,  signifying  the  fall  of  the  Wye,  was 
formerly  the  principal  village  in  the  hundred  of  Rhaiadyr,  Radnorshire. 
The  population  of  the  parish  in  1831  was  669.  The  Market  is  on  Wed¬ 
nesday;  the  Fairs  on  the  5th  and  27th  of  Aug.,  Sept.  26.,  Oct.  14.,  Dec.  3.; 
besides  three  great  markets  in  May.  The  town  lies  in  a  valley  surrounded 
by  hills,  and  contains  four  streets,  which  intersect  at  right  angles  ;  the  town- 
hall  standing  in  the  centre.  In  the  year  457  Vortigern  being  discomfited 
by  Hengist,  whom  he  had  invited  to  his  assistance  against  the  Piets  and 
Scots,  took  shelter  in  the  fastnesses  of  this  neighbourhood.  There  are 
several  earns  or  barrows  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place ;  the  most  remarkable 
of  which  is  that  of  Tommen- Saint  Ffraid,  on  the  w.  s.  w.  side  of  the  town, 
in  the  parish  of  Cwm-y-dauddwr,  supposed  to  be  the  cemetery  of  Saint 
Ffraid,  the  tutelary  saint  of  that  parish,  to  whom  notless  than  eighteen  churches 
and  chapels  are  dedicated  in  the  Principality.  She  is  better  known  by  the 
names  of  St.  Bridget  or  Bride,  was  of  British  descent,  and  the  date  of  her 
birth  is  placed  by  Archbishop  Usher  in  the  year  453.  In  her  native  country  her 
celebrity  appears  to  have  been  exceeded  only  by  that  of  the  great  apostle  of 
Ireland  himself.  On  the  w.n.w.  side  formerly  stood  a  castle,  built  about 
A.D.  1178  by  Rhys  ap  Gryffydd,  to  check  the  incursions  of  the  Normans. 
In  1194  Prince  Rhys  was  surprised  and  taken  prisoner  by  his  unnatural 
sons.  During  this  confinement  the  sons  of  Cadwallon  ap  Madog  of  Mael- 
ienydd  besieged  and  took  Rhaiadyr  Gwy  Castle.  In  1231  Prince  Llewelyn 
of  N.  Wales,  after  burning  Montgomery  Castle  to  the  ground,  marched  to 
Rhaiadyr,  and  subjected  its  castle  to  the  same  fate ;  not  a  vestige  of  which 
remains  except  the  fosse.  The  Tower  or  citadel  stood  in  a  direct  line  be¬ 
tween  the  Castle  and  Gaol,  overlooking  the  river.  The  Mount  adjacent  still 
retains  the  name  of  Tower  Hill.  Near  the  Bridge  the  Dominicans,  or  Black 
Friars,  who  came  into  England  in  1221,  had  a  religious  house,  which  was 
suppressed,  with  others,  in  the  31st  year  of  Henry  VIII.  The  Church  is 
a  plain  but  neat  edifice,  rebuilt  in  1733,  and  the  tower  in  1783.  It  is  a 
very  venerable  structure,  built  in  the  form  of  an  oblong  square,  with  a 
quadrangular  stone  tower  and  turrets.  The  internal  part  consists  of  a  nave 
and  chancel.  In  remote  times  this  town  was  much  more  extensive  and 
the  Old  Church  more  spacious  than  the  present  structure.  At  Ce/h  Ceido, 
about  ^  m.  from  Rhaiadyr,  bearing  e.n.e., 'are  two  small  tumuli,  and  a 
tract  of  land  called  Pant-yr-Eglwys,  where,  according  to  tradition,  stood  a 
church  ;  the  borough  is  said  to  have  extended  to  that  place.  The  presby- 
terians  and  methodists  have  each  a  meeting-house.  The  School  is  endowed 
for  educating  a  limited  number  of  poor  children.  Tlie  School  House  was 
built  by  subscription  in  the  year  1793.  The  town  is  governed  by  a  bailiff, 
who  is  annually  elected  at  the  court-leet.  It  is  exempt  from  the  payment 
of  county  rates.  The  Town  Hall  is  a  very  handsome  building.  The  great 
Sessions  for  the  county  were  held  here.  The  Gaol  was  upon  the  spot  where 


M  M 


530 


RHAIADYR. 


now  stands  the  presbyterian  chapel.  The  great  iron  bars  in  the  windows  still 
remain.  The  place  for  the  execution  of  criminals  was  on  the  n.  end  of  the 
town,  near  a  house  called  Pen-y-Maes.  The  County  Court  was  alternately 
held  at  New  Radnor  and  Rhaiadyr,  but  was  removed  from  the  latter  place 
to  the  town  of  Presteign  by  34  &  35  Henry  VIII.  A  woollen  manufactory 
is  carried  on  here  and  in  the  neighbourhood,  in  which  carding  engines  and 
spinning  machines  are  used.  The  post  comes  in  and  returns  three  times  a 
week.  A  stage  coach  passes  through  this  place  on  the  road  from  London  to 
Aberystwith  during  the  summer.  The  s.  side  of  Rhaiadyr-bridge  affords  a 
very  characteristic  view  of  local  features.  The  arch  of  the  bridge  is  elegant, 
and  the  picturesque  line  of  the  river  furnishes  a  most  agreeable  mo7'geau. 
Mr.  Malkin  has  given  this  scene  in  his  erudite  quarto,  as  drawn  and  en¬ 
graved  by  Laporte ;  and  it  occurs  also  in  Ireland’s  Wye,  taken  below  the 
bridge.  Over  the  bridge  passes  the  high  road  to  Aberystwith.  The  prin¬ 
cipal  Inns  at  this  place  are  the  Red  Lion  and  Royal  Oak,  where  are  post- 
chaises.  Of  one  of  them  [not  distinguished]  Mr.  Skrine  says,  though  small 
and  rustic,  it  is  sufficiently  commodious ;  and,  what  would  render  any  fare 
agreeable,  the  civilities  of  the  people  were  native  and  sincere.”  There  is 
excellent  fishing  above  Rhaiadyr.  The  river  abounds  with  fine  trout,  and 
in  the  summer  season  it  is  much  resorted  to  by  the  lovers  of  the  piscatory 
art.  In  the  neighbourhood  occurs  Llyn  Gwyn,  a  piece  of  water  of  consider¬ 
able  size,  affording  perch,  trout,  and  eels. 

At  the  distance  of  7  m.  n.e.  of  Rhaiadyr  was  a  religious  house,  called 
Ahhcy-Cwm-Hh',  but  now  a  heap  of  ruins.  The  valley  in  which  it  stood  is 
delightful.  The  hills  around  appear  extremely  grand,  forming  an  amphi¬ 
theatre  round  the  rich  bottom,  wherein  this  venerable  monastery  stood.  Its 
situation  upon  a  fertile  bank  of  the  Clewedog,  abounding  in  beautiful  and 
sublime  objects,  was  exceedingly  calculated  to  inspire  religious  ideas.  The 
hill  on  the  n.,  is  1511  yards  high,  with  a  gradual  ascent  on  one  side  called 
the  Park,  formerly  9  ra-  in  circumference,  and  stocked  with  above  300  deer. 
An  old  gate  and  some  pales  are  still  visible,  with  two  foundations  of  deer- 
houses.  To  the  s.  is  another  hill,  1751  yards  in  height,  called  Birch  Hill, 
from  the  great  quantity  of  birch  timber  which  nearly  covers  the  side  front¬ 
ing  the  remains  of  the  abbey.  To  complete  the  circle,  Wenalt  rises  on  the 
w.,  and  Beddugreu  on  the  e.  According  to  Leland,  Abbey-Cwm-Hir  was 
founded  by  Cadwallon  ap  Madog,  in  1143,  for  sixty  Cistercian  monks, 
but  never  finished.  The  remaining  walls  are  very  considerable,  forming  an 
area  of  255  ft.  by  73.  Perhaps  the  refectory  may  be  traced,  where  some 
apertures  appear  in  the  n.  side,  about  2  ft.  from  the  ground.  The  monks’ 
habitations  are  supposed  to  have  been  on  the  n.e.  side;  probably  the  same 
which  Leland  calls  the  third  unfinished  part.  Thomas  Hodges  Fowler, 
Esq.,  is  the  present  proprietor  of  this  ruin.  Besides  the  specimens  of  the 
architecture  of  this  abbey,  which  the  tradition  of  the  country  says  were  car¬ 
ried  to  Leandiloes,  some  mutilated  remains  may  still  be  found  about  the 
dwelling  and  outhouses  of  the  farm,  and  particularly  about  the  contiguous 
chapel,  founded  by  Sir  Williarh  Fowler  in  l680.  A  small  monument  appears 
in  this  edifice  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Sir  Hans  Fowler,  Bart. 
The  present  church  at  Llanhister  was  originally  dedicated  to  Cynllo,  with 
those  of  Llangynllo  and  Nantmel,  all  of  which  are  churches  of  the  first  or 
oldest  foundation,  L  e.  previous  to  the  arrival  of  Augustine.  It  is  reported 
to  have  been  erected  with  stones  purloined  from  this  abbey.  This  has  been 
the  case  respecting  Faenor,  as  appears  evident  from  the  building,  distant 
1  m.  from  the  former.  The  most  perfect  Cai'neddau  in  the  county  of 
Radnor  are  near  Abbey  Cwm  Hir,  and  on  Gwastedyn  Hill,  near  Rhaiadyr. 


HHAIADYR. 


531 


These  consist  of  stones  to  the  amount  of  thirty  or  forty  cart  loads,  thrown 
clown  promiscuously  to  form  a  earn,  erected  by  the  Britons  in  commemo¬ 
ration  of  their  hero  or  chieftain,  who  fell  in  battle.  These  heaps  are  found 
in  various  situations  and  of  different  dimensions  ;  but  the  largest  does  not 
much  exceed  60  ft.  in  diameter,  and  about  7  ft.  deep  in  the  middle,  where 
the  earn  is  always  most  protuberant,  to  conceal  the  chest,  or  stone  coffin, 
which  is  usually  found  in  this  part,  covered  with  a  large  stone.  It  fre¬ 
quently  happens  that  a  circular  range  of  large  ones  are  pitched  perpendicu¬ 
larly  on  the  outside  of  the  heap,  while  the  stones  contained  within  are  piled 
loosely  in  circles  about  the  tomb,  and  the  interstices  filled  up  with  lesser  ones. 
Some  of  the  earns  are  covered  with  earth,  almost  conical,  and  approach  near 
the  form  of  a  tumulus.  In  many  of  these  earns  the  stones  bear  marks  of 
ignition,  being  remarkably  red  and  brittle,  by  the  action  of  fire,  and  some 
are  in  a  great  measure  vitrified.  To  a  perfect  earn  there  is  always  a  large 
stone  placed  endwise,  wdthin  10,  20,  30,  40,  or  50  yards  of  it,  and  such  as 
are  without  them  at  present  may  have  been  deprived  of  them.  There  is 
also  some  distinction  to  be  observed,  i.  e.  the  tumulus  and  earn  appearing 
together,  prove  that  the  interred  was  an  ancient  chief ;  while  the  sepulchres 
of  the  commonalty  are  always  found  upon  the  hills,  in  a  small  declivity  and 
hollow  of  an  oblong  form,  with  the  earth  heaped  like  a  small  hillock.  When 
these  are  opened,  a  stratum  of  ashes,  blackish  or  red  burnt  earth,  is  dis¬ 
covered.  A  traveller  seldom  passes  over  a  barren  hill  in  Wales  without 
perceiving  a  Gwyddfa,  or  some  memorial  of  the  ancient  Britons.  (^Evans’s 
Cambrian  Itinerary,') 

Llandrindod  Wells  are  distant  8  m.  from  this  place. 

Paine  s  Castle  is  situated  in  a  small  hamlet  of  that  name,  containing  some 
good  houses.  It  is  supposed  to  have  received  its  name  from  Paganus,  a 
Norman  who  founded  the  castle.  These  remains  are  very  inconsiderable, 
a  few  loose  fragments  of  the  outer  walls  serve  to  show  merely  that  a  build¬ 
ing  once  existed. 

Castell  Tinbott,  Tibbot,  or  Timboth,  is  situated  upon  a  steep  hill  called 
Crogen,  above  the  river  Ython,  in  the  parish  of  Llananna,  and  3  m.  from 
Abbey-Cwm-Hir.  The  remnant  of  this  castle  consists  only  of  a  fragment  of 
a  thick  wall.  The  original  building  was  destroyed  by  Llywelyn  ap  Gryffydd, 
1260. 

The  ROAD  INTO  Cardiganshire  may  be  taken  either  circuitously  through 
Cwm  Elian,  or  directly  by  the  turnpike  near  Llyn  Gwyn.  Neither  can  be 
relinquished  without  loss.  The  former  is  the  most  engaging,  but  ample 
time  is  necessary,  and  it  can  only  be  pursued  on  foot. 

Keeping  along  the  turnpike-road  for  a  short  space,  a  by-path  to  the  1. 
leads  to  the  banks  of  the  romantic  Elian.  By  crossing  the  fields,  the  country 
is  better  seen.  Not  far  off  the  Elian  joins  the  Clarwen  and  the  Clarwy, 
already  united.  Further  in  the  valley,  there  is  a  retired  and  neat  chapel  by 
the  road-side,  not  far  from  a  good  house.  The  scene  becomes  confined,  the 
rocks  of  slate  and  limestone  rising  gradually  higher.  The  principal  mansion 
in  Cwmland  belonged  to  Thomas  Groves,  Esq.,  a  Wiltshire  gentleman,  who 
purchased  10,000  almost  worthless  acres,  which  he  converted  into  a 
paradise.  This  estate  is  called  Cwm  Elian,  distant  from  Rhaiadyr  5  m., 
and  was  the  summer  residence  of  the  proprietor.  The  approach  to  it 
is  over  a  handsome  wooden  bridge  leading  to  a  fine  verdant  lawn,  which 
stretches  from  the  house  and  forms  a  curve  with  the  river  Elian,  uniting  a 
singular  combination  of  natural  and  artificial  beauties,  of  wild  scenery  and 
elegant  ornament ;  a  foaming  river,  rugged  rocks,  precipices,  and  lofty 

mm2 


RHAIADYR. 


mountains^  contrasted  with  rich  meadows,  neat  enclosures^  and  elegant  build¬ 
ings.  In  pursuing  the  Elian  through  this  domain,  its  various  beauties 
are  very  striking,  particularly  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  the  house, 
where  the  pedestrian  crosses  a  rude  alpine  bridge,  formed  of  the  branches  of 
trees,  thrown  from  rock  to  rock,  under  which  the  Elian  dashes  at  the  depth 
of  30  ft.  This  spot  is  well  described  by  Mr.  Bowles,  in  his  poem  of 

Coombe  Elian.”  There  is  no  longer  a  worn  path  to  lead  to  the  great  road. 
A  guide  is  necessary  in  this  route,  to  whom  the  traveller  must  trust. 

The  DIRECT  ROAD  ascends  by  a  long  and  steep  pitch  of  2  m.  into  a  bold 
and  hilly  region,  disparted  by  precipices,  mountain  rising  above  moun¬ 
tain.  The  Wye,  in  its  infancy,  forms  a  predominant  feature  on  the  r.  By 
deviating  across  the  heath,  to  the  1.  may  be  gained  a  view  of  Llyn  Gwyn, 
an  eminently  picturesque  lake,  containing  perch,  trout,  and  eels.  Beyond 
is  an  immense  reach  of  the  Wye.  On  returning  to  the  road  the  W ye  above 
becomes  the  object.  After  another  ascent  of  a  mile,  we  view  the  innumer¬ 
able  mountains  of  Cardiganshire,  enlivened  only  by  the  purple  heath.  The 
road  then  lies  down  a  precipitous  descent,  finding  the  Elian  in  the  bottom. 
It  is  here  that  the  more  intrepid  traveller  may  meet  the  less  adventurous  of 
his  party  who  have  taken  the  direct  high  road,  or  his  horses  and  servants, 
if  so  happily  accommodated.  Here  the  three  counties  meet.  The  road  to 
Havod  is  distant  from  this  point  9  ni.,  upon  terraces  hanging  on  the  sides 
of  mountains,  across  a  most  wild  and  barren  tract.  The  Elian  here  mingles 
with  the  scene  of  desolation,  and  becomes  a  mere  brook,  where  it  is  crossed 
near  its  source.  The  mountains  on  the  1.  are  rugged,  and  overspread  with 
treacherous  bogs.  Anon  the  traveller  finds  himself  impending  over  the 
Ystwyth,  at  the  height  of  full  200  ft.  An  insulated  mountain,  terminating 
in  a  craggy  precipice,  rises  abruptly  from  the  bed  of  the  river,  to  the  height, 
it  is  said,  of  220  yards.  On  descending,  the  traveller,  instead  of  entering 
upon  a  more  level  country,  finds  himself  at  the  base  of  Plinlimmon.  There 
is  an  elegant  stone  bridge  over  the  Ystwyth,  built  for  public  accommodation 
by  Baldwyn  of  Bath,  at  the  expense  of  Mr.  Johnes. 

The  lead  mines  of  Cwnn- Ystwyth  lie  on  the  r.  of  the  river  Ystwyth,  and 
their  entrance  is  just  above  the  road.  “  Beyond  the  lead  mines,”  says 
Mr.  Malkin,  the  smoothness  of  the  road,  a  narrow  stripe  of  cultivation 
by  the  Ystwyth,  on  which,  however  poor,  the  bewildered  eye  fixes  as  a 
resting  place,  a  hill  in  front,  crowned  with  the  novel  ornament  of  a  plant¬ 
ation,  bespeak  the  approach  to  objects  more  cheerful,  to  a  scene  of  brilliant 
enchantment,  prepared  behind  the  shifting  caverns  and  magic-struck,  abodes, 
wEich  seem  only  placed  there  to  heighten  the  effect,  and  be  withdrawn.  I 
do  not  know  that  I  was  ever  sensible  of  more  pleasure  or  relief,  than  on  the 
unexpected  sight  of  that  woody  hill,  at  my  first  visit.  The  road  turning 
suddenly  on  the  r.  leads  up  to  Pentre  Brunant  Inn,  one  of  the  most 
wretched  and  destitute  imaginable,  in  a  situation  which  challenges  the 
residence  of  a  nobleman  ;  yet  are  the  attractions  of  the  vicinity  such,  that 
many  parties  are  induced  to  bear  with  the  privations  of  the  place  for  days 
together,  while  they  explore  occasionally  the  vdld,  and  sometimes  the 
cultivated  beauties  surrounding  them.  The  entrance  to  Havod,  by  this 
approach  is  at  the  shepherd’s  cot,  on  the  hill  to  the  s.  The  descent  by  the 
footpath  from  Pentre  Brunant  Inn  is  steep  and  romantic.  The  foot-bridge 
across  the  stream  affords  a  scene  of  picturesque  and  entangled  wildness.” 
[See  Havod,  p.  271.] 

From  Rhaiadyr,  Mr.  Skrine  proceeded  towards  Pen-y-bont,  at  which  in¬ 
teresting  spot  he  croseed  the  Ithon,  and  pursuing  a  rugged  track  over  a 


RHAIADYR. 


533 


wild  range  of  hills^  he  entered  a  deep  romantic  vale^  through  which  the 
Teme  winds,  Great  and  memorable/’  says  this  author_,  ‘‘^are  the  remains 
of  antiquity  to  he  found  in  this  district  ;  the  Camp  of  Caractacus  being  yet 
in  high  preservation  upon  the  hills  towards  Chin,  and  that  of  CcBsar  may  easily 
be  traced  upon  an  eminence  impending  over  the  valley.  Offas  Dike  also 
passes  by  Knighton^  extending  from  the  mouth  of  the  Dee,  in  a  slanting 
direction  across  the  kingdom.  In  this  vale  stands  Brampton  Brian,  an  old 
seat  of  the  Oxford  family,  once  surrounded  by  fine  woods ;  but  the 
ruthless  axe  has  despoiled  it  of  these  sylvan  honours.  He  then  reached  the 
very  beautifully  situated  little  town  of  Presteign. 

To  Aberystwith  cross  the  Wye,  the  intersection  of  which  is  through 
Builth,  Hay,  Hereford,  &c.  to  Bentre  Br unant  Inn,  in  Cvom  Ystwith,  14^  m. 
2  m.  w.  of  the  road,  is  Rhydoldog,  John  Oliver,  Esq.  From  Cwm  Ystwith, 
Havod  lies  2  m.  on  the  1.  and  Pont-y-Mynaoh,  4  m.  (2  m.  beyond  Cwm 
Ystwith,  on  the  r.  the  road  diverges  to  this  place).  Picadilly,  13^  m.  (l  m. 
on  the  1.  Nanteos,  Pryse  Pryse,  Esq.  M.  P.,  Aberystwith,  1  m.  7  fur.  in 
all  29  m.  5  fur.  A  new  road  from  Rhaiadyr  to  Aberystwith  has  been  re¬ 
cently  formed,  not  nearer,  nor  so  wild  in  its  scenery,  but  more  level. 

The  road  hence  to  Pont-y-Mynach,  exhibits  a  scene  which  will  for¬ 
cibly  arrest  the  attention  of  the  stranger.  For  the  first  3  m.  there  is  a  con¬ 
tinued  ascent.  A  new  road,  to  avoid  the  labour  of  ascending  the  emi¬ 
nence  of  Cwmtoyddwr,  is  now  open  for  the  accommodation  of  the  public, 
to  the  extent  of  7  m.,  through  a  picturesque  and  romantic  vale ;  but  the 
trouble  of  gainijig  the  summit  is  amply  compensated  by  the  charming 
scene  which  constantly  presents  itself,  on  turning  round  to  observe  the 
splendid  retrospect  in  which  the  town  of  Rhaiadyr,  and  Vaga’s  lovely 
stream,  winding  through  a  fertile  vale  below,  combine  to  form  a  land¬ 
scape  of  the  most  inexpressible  beauty.  From  the  summit  we  are  pre¬ 
sented  with  a  contrast  really  awful ;  the  winding  road,  after  a  descent  into 
the  valley  of  about  1  m.,  hangs  on  the  shelving  sides  of  steep,  smooth, 
and  lofty  mountains,  well  clothed  with  verdure,  spotted  with  flocks  of  sheep, 
and  herds  of  cattle ;  and  these  sometimes  at  such  a  giddy  height  that 
makes  one  dread,  lest  the  unsure  ground  should  slide  beneath  their  feet,  and 
send  them  down  a  living  ruin  to  the  deeps  below.”  This  scenery  continues 
for  some  miles  through  the  valley,  with  only  now  and  then  the  intervention 
of  a  shepherd’s  cot,  till  a  short  turn  of  the  road  unexpectedly  leads  over  a 
handsome  modern  stone  bridge  which  pleases  the  stranger  in  a  degree  pro¬ 
portioned  to  his  surprise  at  meeting  abruptly  with  so  elegant  an  accommo¬ 
dation,  in  the  midst  of  a  district  frightfully  barren  and  bewildered.  The 
road  now  winds  under  craggy  precipices,  and  passes  close  to  some  old  lead 
mines  :  this,  too,  is  no  small  novelty  in  so  dreary  a  spot ;  but  all  seems  in 
unison,  for  the  engine  wheel  and  other  apparatus  used  in  the  process,  bear 
evident  marks  of  having  been  constructed  when  the  science  of  mechanics 
was  in  an  infant  state,  and  are  consequently  susceptible  of  great  improve¬ 
ment.  The  dingy  scrofa,  impending  above  the  high  road,  chokes  the  river 
into  which  it  falls,  and  which  now  runs  broad  and  shallow  through  the  vale, 
exhibiting  to  the  admiring  spectator  the  magnitude  of  the  excavations  into 
the  bowels  of  the  rock,  while  the  powder-blasted  gloomy  crags,  that  scowl 
above  the  aperture,  convey  no  bad  idea  of  the  sulphureous  soil  of  Milton’s 
nether  world.^’  There  are  a  few  cottages  erected  for  the  workmen  at  this 
place,  where  they  are  nearly  secluded  from  the  world.  The  curious  ob¬ 
server,  who  has  never  before  seen  a  similar  work,  will  be  highly  gratified 
ill  examining  the  various  forms  in  which  the  ore  is  found  in  its  native 

M  M  3 


534 


RHAIADYR. 


element ;  and  will  probably  be  surprised  at  the  appearance  and  dimensions 
of  the  sbaft_,  through  which  the  miners  say  they  have  completely  perforated 
the  mountain^  and  have  formed  an  accessible  subterraneous  passage  all  the 
way.  From  these  mines  the  road  continues  through  the  glen  a  short  way 
further,  when,  winding  round  the  mountain  on  the  r.  “  the  crisped  heads 
of  Havod’s  woods,’’  breaks  suddenly  into  view.  To  the  r.,  the  road  to 
Aberystwith  ascends  the  verdant  hills  ;  below  them,  the  little  church  of 
Eglwys  Newydd  presents  its  modest  front,  half  buried  in  oaks,  seated  on  a 
little  knoll  ;  in  front,  the  woody  valley,  with  the  Ystwyth  in  its  bottom, 
opens  before  us,  crowned  on  the  1.  with  sloping  lofty  hills  ;  while,  in  the 
midst,  a  smooth  mound,  half  concealed  with  oaks,  rises  among  the  shades, 
and  seems  designed  by  nature  as  a  centre.”  Just  below  the  spot  whence 
this  view  is  taken,  stands  an  Inn,  with  a  few  cottages,  called  Pentref,  or 
more  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  Cwm  Ystwyth,  in  which  parish  it  is 
situated.  This  is  the  mid-way  between  Rhaiadyr  and  Aberystwith,  being 
exactly  15  m.  from  each  ;  and  is  the  only  house  upon  that  road  where  any 
sort  of  accommodations  can  be  met  with,  except  at  the  Havod  Arms,  3  m. 
further.  Pursuing  the  post-road,  from  Cwm  Ystwyth,  the  line  of  which  is 
to  the  r.  of  Havod,  a  small  elevation  leads  to  the  summit  of  a  chain  of 
mountains  of  considerable  extent,  whose  summits  terminate  in  so  many 
irregular  and  various  shapes,  and  form  so  undulating  an  horizon,  that  a 
warm  imagination  might  almost  conceive  the  mountains  to  be  impelled  by 
a  sujiernatural  storm,  in  immense  waves,  and  broken  swells.  These  scenes 
serve  as  a  prelude  to  the  expectation  of  the  stranger,  in  approaching  Pont- 
y-Mynach,  where,  if  he  has  travelled  a  long  and  dreary  stage,  he  will  meet 
with  comfortable  refreshment  at  the  Havod  Arms,  a  neat  and  pleasant 
inn,  fitted  up  on  a  small  but  genteel  scale,  and  affording  such  accommo¬ 
dation  of  good  beds  and  hospitable  entertainment  as  can  scarcely  be  expec¬ 
ted  in  so  remote  a  situation.  Considerable  improvements  are  in  progress 
here. 

To  Builth,  travellers  upon  the  Wye,  will  observe  that  it  receives  a 
considerable  supply  of  water  from  the  Elian  and  Clarwen,  which  unite  at 
the  distance  of  4  m.  from  their  conflux  with  our  river,  and  fall  into  the 
Wye  1  m.  below  Rhaiadyr  ;  8  m.  lower  a  copious  stream  called  the  Ither 
(which  in  its  course  receives  the  Dulas  and  Cammaron'),  makes  a  considerable 
addition  to  the  Wye.  From  the  brow  of  a  hill  about  2  m.  before  we  reach 
the  town  of  Builth,  the  scenery  is  peculiarly  beautiful ;  the  river  spreads 
itself  into  a  bay,  exhibiting  many  naked  rocks  in  its  bed  and  agreeable  breaks. 
The  river  Irfon  falls  into  the  Wye  about  im.  above  the  town,  receiving  at  a 
short  distance  from  its  junction,  the  brook  called  the  Wheffrey,  which  rises 
upon  the  Breconshire  Hills.  Upon  the  e.  side  of  the  W ye,  says  Mr. 
Newell,  “  lies  a  fine  and  beautiful  country,  but  without  local  objects  of  any 
decided  character.  There  are  two  or  three  detached  scenes  very  striking ; 
i.  e.  Cwm  Elian,  the  Vale  of  Edwy,  and  the  dingle  of  the  Machwy.  I 
mention  the  last  upon  the  authority  of  Malkin,  for  I  tried  in  vain  to  find 
it.  He  describes  it  as  a  wild  and  savage  spot,  with  a  tradition  attached  to 
it,  of  an  ancient  prince,  v;ho  had  a  castle  there,  and  used  to  gratify  his 
ferocious  spirit  by  hurling  his  prisoners  from  the  top  of  the  rock  into  a 
dismal  pool  below.  Aher  Edwy  you  must  see  while  at  Builth,  and  sketch 
the  water-mill  there.  Malkin  has  inserted  in  his  work  an  excellent  sketch 
of  it  by  Laporte.  The  whole  spot  is  exceedingly  romantic,  and  worth  a 
walk  of  3  m.  Take  it  from  the  bank  below  the  wooden  bridge.  Station  : 
bring  the  top  of  the  mill-wheel  exactly  under  the  further  slant  line  of  the 


RHYDDLAN. 


535 


mill,  and  let  the  outline  of  the  first  distant  hill  meet  the  roof.  T.  Jones, 
the  landscape  painter,  pupil  of  Wilson,  was  a  native  of  this  village. 

Fishing  Station.  —  Elan,  5  m.;  a  very  good  little  river. 


To  Havod,  17  miles.  Malkin;  Warner’s  1st  and 
2d  walk  ;  Lipscomb. 

Presteign,  from  an  excursion  to  Caractacus’s 
camp,  upon  the  hills  towards  Clun  ;  thence 
down  the  valeof  Teme  to  Knighton.  Skrine. 
Aberystwith,  291  miles. 


To  New  Radnor,  18  miles. 
Llandrindod,  13  miles. 
Pont-y-Mynach,  18  miles. 
Llanidloes,  1 1  miles. 
Builth,  14.  miles. 


RHYDDLAN. 

From  Holywell,  11  miles.  Pugh.  From  Abergele,  5  miles.  Skrine. 

St.  Asaph,  ,3  miles.  Bingley  ;  Warner.  Diserth,  2^  miles.  Pennant. 

RHYDDLAN,  a  borough,  sea-port,  and  parish  in  Flintshire,  lies  in  a 
flat,  on  the  e.  bank  of  the  river  Clwyd,  about  2  m.  from  its  influx  into  the 
sea.  It  is  here  so  wide  as  to  allow  vessels  of  fifty  tons  burden  to  pass  up 
as  high  as  the  bridge.  Though  now  a  very  insignificant  village,  Rhyddlan 
was  once  a  place  of  great  importance,  of  which,  however,  no  trace  is  left,  ex¬ 
cept  the  ruins  of  its  castle.  From  a  port,  about  2  m.  from  this  place,  where 
the  river  discharges  itself  into  the  sea,  much  corn  and  timber  are  annually 
exported.  The  population  of  this  parish,  including  the  chapelry  of  Rhyl, 
in  1831,  amounted  to  1506.  The  fairs  are  held  Feb.  2.,  March  25.,  Sept.  8. 
The  burgesses  contribute  towards  electing  a  member  for  the  borough  of 
Flint;  those  who  are  qualified  inhabit  the  village  and  that  part  of  the 
parish  called  Rhyddlan  Franchise,  which  extends  above  1  m.  from  this 
place.  Below  the  town  is  a  large  marsh,  called  Morva  Rhyddlan,  the  marsh 
of  Rhyddlan,  where,  in  795,  was  fought  a  dreadful  battle  betwixt  the 
Welsh,  under  their  leader  Caradog,  and  the  Saxon  forces  under  Offa,  king 
of  Mercia.  The  W elsh  were  routed,  and  their  commander  slain  ;  in  ad¬ 
dition  to  this  severe  loss,  the  Saxon  prince  cruelly  ordered  all  the  men  and 
children,  who  unfortunately  fell  into  his  hands  to  be  massacred,  the  women 
only  escaping  his  fury.  The  memory  of  this  tragical  event  has  been 
handed  down  to  posterity  in  a  ballad  called  Morva  Rhyddlan,’^  the  air  of 
which  is  most  tenderly  plaintive,  [See  the  ‘‘Welsh  Harper, by  J.  Parry, 
Esq.,  (Bardd  Alaw)  decidedly  the  best  collection  of  Cambrian  melodies 
hitherto  published.]  This  common  lying  near  the  town,  between  St. 
Asaph  and  the  sea,  contains  about  27,000  acres  of  a  rich  sandy  loam, 
whereof  500  acres  were  appointed  by  an  act  of  inclosure  to  be  sold  to¬ 
wards  defraying  the  expenses  of  securing  the  whole  marsh,  by  an  embank¬ 
ment,  from  the  encroachments  of  the  sea,  which  committed  some  ravages  on 
Tywyn  Abergele,  a  neighbouring  waste.  The  embankment  is  nearly  8  m. 
in  length,  and  of  various  dimensions,  according  to  the  force  of  the  tide.  In 
August  1799,  about  It  m.  of  it  had  been  completed,  in  the  most  difficult 
part,  measuring  80  ft.  at  the  base,  7  ft.  at  the  top,  and  8  ft.  deep.  Some 
parts  of  the  allotment  sell  for  301.  an  acre,  and  some  for  351.  The  Castle 
is  of  red  stone,  nearly  square,  having  six  towers,  two  at  each  of  two  oppo¬ 
site  corners,  and  only  one  at  each  of  the  others.  Three  of  them  on  the 
N.  w.  side,  remain  tolerably  entire.  It  had  a  double  ditch  on  the  n.,  and  a 
strong  wall  and  fosse  all  round.  In  this  wall  is  a  tower  still  standing,  called 
Twr-y-Silod,  or  Twr-y-Brennin,  The  principal  entrance  was  from  the 
N.w.  between  two  rounders.  Opposite  to  these  are  two  very  much  shat¬ 
tered,  but  the  remainder  are  tolerably  entire.  Powell  and  Camden  say  it 
was  built  by  Llywelyn  ap  Sitsyllt,  at  the  commencement  of  the  11th  century, 
who  made  it  his  place  of  residence  ;  others  say  it  was  erected  by  Robert  de 

M  31  4 


536  RHYDDLAN. 

Rodelentj  but  soon  after  burnt  by  Gryffydd  ap  Cynan^  prince  of  Wales 
Henry  II.  subsequently  rebuilt  or  fortified  this  castle^  in  which  Giraldus, 
Cambrensis  says  he  was  nobly  entertained.  Queen  Eleanor  was  also  de¬ 
livered  of  a  princess  here  in  1283.  Northumberland  seized  this  fortress 
in  139Q,  previous  to  the  deposition  of  Richard  II.,  who  dined  here  on  his 
way  to  Flint  Castle.  In  Archaelogia,”  p.32.,  is  a  copy  of  the  roll  of  the  ex¬ 
penses  of  Edward  I.  at  Rhyddlan  Castle,  in  the  10th  and  11th  years  of  his 
reign.  Of  this  place  only  one  solitary  Gothic  window  remains.  On  a  pri¬ 
vate  house  the  following  inscription  appears: —  This  fragment  is  the  re¬ 
mains  of  the  building  where  King  Edward  I.  held  his  parliament,  a.d.  1283, 
in  which  was  passed  the  statute  of  Rhyddlan,  securing  to  the  Principality 
its  judicial  rights  and  independence.’’  There  is  another  old  house  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  castle,  where  tradition  says  the  king  resided.  It  is  at  present 
the  property  of  the  crown.  During  the  civil  war,  in  the  time  of  Charles  I., 
Rhyddlan  Castle  was  occupied  by  the  royalists,  but  after  a  short  siege  the 
garrison  surrendered  to  general  Mytton,  July,  l646;  in  the  following  De¬ 
cember  it  w^as  dismantled  by  order  of  parliament.  To  the  s.  of  the  castle 
is  shown  a  mount,  called  Tuthill,  whence,  it  is  said,  the  castle  was  battered ; 
but  it  appears  a  more  ancient  fortification,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  deep 
ditch,  including  the  abbey.  Not  far  distant  once  stood  a  house  of  Black 
Friars,  founded  some  time  before  1268.  The  Bridge  consists  of  two 
arches,  built  or  rebuilt  in  1595,  bearing  the  arms  of  Hughes,  bishop  of  St. 
Asaph,  on  one  of  the  battlements.  The  Clwyd  is  navigable  up  to  this  place, 
and  at  its  mouth  is  the  port,  at  the  Verryd,  where  small  vessels  lie  to  take 
in  corn,  timber  and  other  produce.  The  tide  flows  as  high  as  the  bridge, 
and  admits  boats  of  about  seventy  tons  burden,  called  flats,  up  to  the  quay. 
The  Church  has  nothing  remarkable  about  it,  except  an  ancient  grave-ston 
a  cross  fleure  and  sword,  A  little  beyond  the  priory,  Mr.  Pennant  de¬ 
scended  the  bank,  and  fording  the  Clwyd,  soon  reached  St.  Asaph  ;  in 
which  approach  the  handsome  extensive  bridge,  the  little  town,  and  the 
cathedral  mingled  with  trees,  form  a  most  agreeable  view. 

To  Abergele  there  is  a  bridle  causeway  5  m.  in  length,  across  ^lorva 
Rhyddlan. 

To  Conwy  Ferry  the  road  lies  principally  over  the  hills,  commanding 
fine  sea  prospects,  till  the  mountain  of  Penmaenross  occurs,  in  winding 
round  wdiich,  the  magnificent  ruin  of  Conwy  Castle  breaks  into  sight,  backed 
by  the  vast  mountains  of  Caernarvonshire.  Instead  of  crossing  the  ferry, 
Mr.  Skrine  proceeded  12  m.  further  along  the  bank  of  the  Conwy  to  Llanrwst. 

On  the  r.  of  the  road  from  Rhyddlan  to  Diserth  lies  Bodryddan,  the 
residence  of  the  dean  of  St.  Asaph,  who  endeavoured  to  rouse  the  farmers  of 
the  parish  of  Rhyddlan  out  of  their  lethargy.  He  gave  five  guineas  for  the 
best  crop  of  turnips  ;  and  three  guineas  for  the  best  crop  of  wheat  upon  a 
fallow,  manured  only  with  lime  compost.  All  of  the  competitors  partook  of 
the  feast,  on  the  day  of  decision  j  and  the  victors,  beside  their  premiums, 
had  the  honourable  distinction  of  being  crowned  with  a  wreath  of  Ceres  by 
one  of  the  ladies  present. 

Plants. — In  the  churchyard  grow  Salvia  verbenica,  and  Anethum  foeni- 
culum.  In  Rhyddlan  marsh,  Rotbollia  incurvata  ;  in  ditches,  Potamoge- 
ton  gramineum  ;  in  ditches  on  the  n.  w.  side,  Lemna  gibba;  about  this 
marsh  and  on  sand-banks  near  the  shore,  Arunda  arenaria.  On  hedge- 
banks  betwixt  and  the  sea,  near  the  stone  house,  Lepidium  latifolium.  In  a 
salt-water  ditch  by  the  road-side  leading  to  St.  Asaph,  Aster  tripolium. 

Angling  Station, —  Cwm,  3  m. 

To  Conwy  Ferry,  16  miles.  Skrine.  I  Back  to  St.  Asaph.  Bingley. 

St.  Asaph,  5  miles.  Pennant  j  Pugh.  | 


537 


RHYL. 

From  Abergele,  5  miles.  I  From  Holywell,  13  miles. 

Chester,  30  miles.  |  St.  Asaph,  5  miles. 

RHYL  is  a  township  situated  in  the  parish  of  Rhyddlan_,  hundred  of 
Prestatyn,  and  county  of  Flint.  In  1820  this  place  consisted  of  only  a  few 
detached  edifices  ;  but  owing  to  the  amenity  of  its  position  on  the  coast  of  the 
Irish  sea,  commanding  some  smooth  and  firm  sand  of  several  miles  extent, 
Rhyl  has  become  a  place  of  considerable  attraction,  and  is  fast  acquiring 
the  character  and  convenience  of  a  town.  Its  claims  upon  the  tourist  and 
the  visitor  will  no  longer  be  restricted  to  the  excellency  of  its  beach,  and 
the  clear  purity  of  its  atmosphere,  but  will  include  the  more  substantial  en¬ 
joyments  resulting  from  good  hotels,  to  say  nothing  of  bowling-greens  and 
billiard-tables.  To  add  to  its  accommodations  and  attractions  we  find  has 
been  the  aim  of  Mr.  Robert  Jones,  late  of  Manchester,  as  the  splendid  hotel 
now  in  course  of  erection  will  testify.  The  site  selected  is  well  adapted  to 
gratify  the  guests,  being  close  upon  the  beach,  adjacent  to  the  embankment, 
and  commanding  a  full  and  bold  view  of  the  Snowdonian  Hills  and  sur¬ 
rounding  scenery.  The  balcony  on  the  third  story  will  exhibit  not  only  the 
whole  range  of  the  hill  country,”  but  Holyhead  Bay,  Liverpool,  the 
Channel,  and  the  Isle  of  Man.  The  interior  accommodations  of  this  hotel, 
we  are  informed,  are  to  be  on  the  first  scale,  including  baths  of  every  kind 
and  principle,  a  species  of  accommodation  of  which  our  hotels  are  too  fre¬ 
quently  destitute.” 

This  interesting  locality  commands  some  fine  views  of  the  most  pic¬ 
turesque  portions  of  the  vale  of  Clwyd,  Llanddulas  Bay,  Ormeshead,  the 
Isle  of  Anglesa,  and  mountains  of  Cumberland. 

At  the  For-ryd  pier,  about  1  m.  distant,  steam- vessels  land  passengers 
daily.  The  retirement  of  its  situation  and  various  local  advantages  render 
Rhyl  extremely  suitable  to  families  whose  object  is  to  obtain  the  benefit  of 
sea-air  and  bathing,  without  the  usual  bustle  and  fatigue  experienced  at 
more  fashionable  watering-places. 

To  Rhycldlan,  Smiles. 


ROSS. 

Mr.  Gilpin  begins  his  description  of  the  Wye  at  |  From  Newnham,  9  miles.  Skrine. 

Ross.  See  also  Wye.  Hereford,  14^  miles.  Lipscomb. 

From  Goodrich  Castle,  4  miles.  Barber. 

ROSS  is  a  rural  deanery  in  the  hundred  of  Grey  tree  and  diocese  and 
county  of  Hereford.  It  is  the  central  town  between  Gloucester,  Hereford, 
Monmouth,  and  Ledbury.  In  1801  this  place  contained  2347  inhabitants, 
in  1831,  3072.  The  bold  irregularities  of  ground,  and  the  strong  fertility 
of  soil,  so  congenial  to  tlie  growth  of  oak  and  culture  of  orcharding,  have 
contributed  to  render  the  approach  to  Ross  extremely  gratifying.  The 
Market  House  is  in  the  style  of  Saxon  architecture  peculiar  to  the  reign  of 
James  I.,  by  John  Abel,  who  erected  similar  buildings  at  Hereford  and 
Leominster.  At  its  w.  end  is  a. bust  of  Charles  II.  badly  preserved.  But 
the  greatest  boast  of  this  town  is  the  honour  of  having  produced  that  pattern 


538 


ROSS. 


of  benevolence^  John  Kyrie,  Esq.  characterised  by  Pope^  and  invested  with 
deathless  fame  under  the  title  of  the  Man  of  Ross.  John  Kyrle  was  horn 
at  Whitehouse,  in  the  parish  of  Dymock^  in  the  county  of  Hereford^  in  l637y 
served  the  office  of  Sheriff  for  the  county  in  1683^  and  died  in  1724.  From 
an  income  of  only  300/.  a  year,  this  good  man  appears  to  have  derived 
happiness,  and  to  have  diffused  innumerable  benefits  to  those  around  him. 
His  usual  dress  was  a  suit  of  brown  dittos,  and  a  King  William’s  wig.  His 
attention  was  directed  to  horticulture  and  planting.  With  a  spade  upon  his 
shoulder  and  a  glass  bottle  of  liquor  in  his  hand,  he  walked  from  his  field 
and  back  to  his  house,  several  times  a  day.  Mr.  Kyrle  was  not  denominated 
the  Man  of  Ross”  from  the  poem  of  Pope  :  it  was  an  appellation  given 
to  him  by  a  country  friend.  The  house  where  he  resided  was,  after  his 
death,  converted  to  an  inn,  now  a  druggist’s  shop.  It  was  Kyrle  who  pro¬ 
duced  the  fine  broad  Causeway  at  the  w.  end  of  the  town.  He  enclosed  a 
field  near  the  churchyard,  called  the  Prospect,  whence  is  a  delightful  bird’s- 
eye  view.  The  reservoir  of  water  which  he  constructed  is  filled  up,  but 
the  sun-dial  which  he  placed  upon  the  wall  remains.  This  fountain  was 
supplied  from  the  river  by  an  engine  below.  It  contained  upwards  of  550 
hogsheads  conveyed  to  the  houses  in  the  streets.  This  fountain  became 
disused,  the  wall  was  taken  down  in  179^,  and  the  hollow  filled  up.  This 
terrace,  of  very  considerable  altitude,  seems  almost  to  overhang  the  river 
Wye,  which  wantons  below  in  a  variety  of  pleasing  sweeps  ;  stretching  into 
a  fine  semicircle,  with  each  of  its  extremities  uniformly  reverted,  immediately 
under  the  eye,  in  a  most  luxuriant  vale,  embellished,  among  other  objects, 
with  the  castles  of  Wilton  and  Bridstow,  and  terminated  in  the  distance  by 
the  mountains  of  Pembrokeshire.  The  road  made  from  Ross  to  Mr.  Kyrle’s 
farm  is  called  Kyrle  s  Walk,  extending  nearly  1  m.  along  the  banks  of  the 
Wye.  At  the  end  of  this  walk  is  a  summer-house,  built  by  his  relative, 
Mr.  Vandervort  Kyrle,  upon  which  were  painted  these  words  :  Si  non 

tibi  non  ibi the  index  of  which  evidently  pointed  to  the  towering  wood 
of  Penyard.  In  a  remote  and  retired  part  of  this  wood  are  the  ruins  of  a 
castle,  or,  with  more  probability,  from  their  secluded  situation,  a  monastery. 
The  tolls  of  all  corn  brought  to  Ross  market,  had  been  given  by  one  of  the 
townsmen  to  the  poor.  Mr.  Kyrle  was  the  last  person  who  received  and 
distributed  this  charity ;  for  the  lord  of  the  manor  contested  it  as  his  own 
perpetual  right,  and  the  gift  was  discontinued.  Rudhall’ s  Almshouse  stood 
close  to  Kyrle’s  garden-door.  The  spare  food  of  his  table  was  taken  thither 
every  day.  He  bequeathed  to  the  Blue  Coat  School  40/.  and  some  of  his  old 
workmen  were  legatees  in  his  will.  He  had  a  closet  stored  with  drugs  ; 
he  and  his  kinswoman  and  housekeeper.  Miss  Judith  Bubb,  prepared  and 
gave  medicines  to  all  the  sick  poor,  and  attended  their  funerals.  This 
custom  is  not  extinct.  People  here  go  without  invitation  as  a  mark  of  respect 
to  the  deceased.  That  Mr.  Kyrle’s  religion  was  that  of  the  heart  will  further 
appear  from  the  following  well  authenticated  anecdotes.  In  the  parochial 
walk,  the  junction  of  Ross  with  Weston,  commences  at  the  stool  of  an  oak 
which  grew  over  a  spring,  in  a  little  meadow  called  the  Flaxridye  in  Pen- 
yard.  This  spring  was  venerated  of  old,  and  formerly  boiled  out,  but  is  now 
a  silent  rivulet.  This  tree  was  called  the  Gospel  Oak,  and  the  practice  of 
reading  in  the  annual  perambulation  a  portion  of  the  Holy  Gospel  by  the 
minister  of  Ross  is  continued  at  this  spot  to  the  present  time.  The  Flax- 
riclge,  consecrated  by  the  observance  of  ages,  while  it  confirms  to  the  memory 
the  identity  of  this  boundary,  allures  the  mind  to  contemplation.  Skreened 
by  the  mountain  groves,  the  grassy  dell  at  one  end  rises  to  the  mazy  path 
and  on  the  other  greets  the  opening  vale.  In  this  lone  sublimity,  and  be- 


ROSS. 


539 

neath  this  oak,  rested  the  Man  of  Ross  with  the  parishioners  and  boys  of  the 
Blue  Coat  School,  on  the  31st  of  May,  I709.  The  minister  being  vested, 
the  company  reverently  uncovered  as  he  unclasped  the  sacred  volume.  As 
the  reading  proceeded,  Mr.  Kyrle  was  observed  to  raise  his  hat  to  conceal 
his  tears  !  The  portion  of  Scripture  was  nearly  the  whole  of  the  4th  chapter 
of  the  Gospel  according  to  St.John;  and  the  scenery  seemed  to  associate 
with  the  subject,  which  was  the  discourse  of  our  Lord  with  the  woman  of 
Samaria.  The  procession  had  provisions  in  a  basket  with  bottles  of  cyder, 
hut  Mr.  Kyrle  dipped  a  wooden  vessel  in  the  well  and  drank  of  the  spring. 
One  of  the  churchwardens  expressed  a  fear  that  Mr.  Kyrle  might  take  cold. 
“  No,”  replied  the  good  old  man,  what  we  have  just  been  listening  to  has 
made  by  heart  warm  !”  It  is  evident,  from  the  beautiful  spirit  manifested 
in  a  life  of  beneficence,  that  this  amiable  character  enjoyed  within  him  a 
well  of  water  springing  up  into  everlasting  life.”  The  church  contains  a 
nave  and  two  side  aisles,  with  a  lofty  roof  and  beautiful  spire.  The  e.  window 
is  of  painted  glass.  Several  fine  monuments  are  to  the  memory  of  the 
Rudhalls  of  Rudhall ;  a  figure  in  Roman  costume  to  General  William  Rud- 
hall,  who  defended  Hereford  ;  and  a  bust  to  Thomas  Westfaling,  Esq.  The 
epitaph,  in  elegant  Latinity,  was  written  by  the  late  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph. 
Here  is  a  stone  coffin  which  contained,  it  is  supposed,  the  remains  of  an 
abbot.  The  trees  in  the  yard  were  planted  by  Mr.  Kyrle  in  l685.  The 
great  bell  was  his  gift,  and  bears  his  name.  It  was  cast  at  Gloucester  in 
1695.  The  spot  of  Kyrle’s  interment  was,  by  his  desire,  at  the  feet  of  his 
dear  friend  Dr.  Whiting.  There  was  no  inscription  till  Mr.  W alter  Kyrle 
placed  a  flat  stone,  in  I76O.  But  in  1776  Lady  Betty  Dupplin  constructed  a 
handsome  memorial  of  his  worth,  thus  inscribed: — This  monument  was 
erected  in  memory  of  Mr.  John  Kyrle,  commonly  called  ^  the  Man  of  Ross.’  ” 
The  bust  in  relief  was  executed  from  a  portrait  taken  at  the  age  of  60.  At 
the  bottom  are  his  arms.  He  was  borne  to  his  grave  by  his  workmen,  fol¬ 
lowed  by  the  whole  population  of  Ross.  This  affecting  solemnity  took  place 
November  20.  1724.  Though  the  church  has  since  been  newly  pewed, 
the  seat  once  occupied  by  Kyrle  was  not  disturbed,  but  remains  in  its  ori¬ 
ginal  state.  In  the  churchyard  is  a  cross  commemorating  the  ravages  of 
the  plague.  Pope  has  made  some  errors  in  respect  to  Kyrle.  The  Alms¬ 
house  was  founded  by  the  Westfaling  family.  The  Charity  School  was  en¬ 
dowed  by  Mr.  Walter  Scott.  Mr.  Kyrle  died  unmarried.  His  income  did 
not  exceed  300/.  a  year.  Ross  has  produced  several  eminent  men,  and 
among  the  women  one  pre-eminently  great,  whose  praise  no  poet  ever  sung. 
Jane  Furney,  the  daughter  of  Mr.  Merrick  of  Ross,  and  widow  of  a  mercer, 
was  a  Christian  of  the  old  school,  her  life  a  ladder  which  she  daily  lengthened 
till  it  reached  to  heaven.  The  altar,  the  pulpit,  the  organ,  the  Blue  Coat 
School,  all  whisper  her  concealed  name.  The  workhouse  and  garden  were 
her  sole  gift.  ‘‘  Her  register  records  her  with  her  poor,”  and  it  is  thus  that 
she  sought  to  be  recorded.  Her  pious  spirit  fled  December,  1730,  and  the 
unlettered  floor  enshrines  its  mortal  appendage. 

The  Blue  Coal  School  was  established  in  1709,  by  Dr.  Charles  Whitling, 
rector  of  Ross,  and  the  gentry  of  the  county.  Walter  Scott,  in  1786,  left 
to  this  charity  200/.  per  annum  for  educating  and  clothing  30  boys  and  30 
girls,  now  decayed,  and  the  funds  lost.  Other  charities  exist.  Rhuddal’s, 
for  3  men  and  3  women  ;  Webb’s  Hospital,  4^.  6d.  a  week  for  5  persons; 
Pye’s  Hospital  for  5  ;  Perrock’s  Hospital  receives  4  poor  persons;  James 
Baker,  Esq.,  late  of  London,  bequeathed  upwards  of  20,000/.  for  charitable 
purposes.  His  memory  is  recorded  on  a  fine  tombstone  in  the  churchyard. 

A  School-house,  called  St.  Mary’s,”  in  the  churchyard,  was  lately 


540 


ROSS. 


rebuilt  One  Webb,  of  Llanwern,  founded  an  Hospital  in  l6l2,  for  7  poor 
people.  Attempts  have  been  made  to  bring  into  repute  a  Mineral  Spring, 
The  spirited  and  improving  inhabitants  of  this  town^  to  their  lasting  honour 
be  it  spoken,  recently  presented  a  petition  to  parliament  stating  it  to  be 
their  deliberate  opinion  that  those  provincial  assemblies  of  the  people,  called 
wakes,  qx  feasts,  as  now  constituted,  are  detrimental  to  the  good  manners 
and  morals  of  society  ;  that  they  encourage  individually  lawless  and  de¬ 
praved  habits,  thwart  the  objects  of  a  sound  and  religious  education,  often 
lead  to  the  maiming  of  the  body,  or  the  total  deprivation  of  life,  in  nowise 
affording  a  salutary  recreation  to  the  mind,  and  too  commonly  injuring  the 
object  of  the  divine  appointment  of  the  Lord’s  day.  The  address  was  signed 
by  all  the  leading  clergy,  gentry,  magistrates,  and  a  vast  number  of  farmers 
of  the  neighbourhood,  and  bears  evident  testimony  that  this  interesting  town 
partakes  largely  of  the  genuine  spirit  of  the  far-famed  Man  of  Ross. 

Sailing  to  Monmouth  we  pass  Wilton  Castle,  Mrs.  Guy  Hill,  on  the  r. 
and  Kyrle’s  Terrace  on  the  1.  m.  The  key-stones  of  Wilton  Bridge  lock 
curiously  one  into  the  other.  Upon  an  eminence  to  the  1.  is  The  Hill,  a 
handsome  brick  building,  K.  Evans,  Esq.  of  Leidet  House,  near  Monmouth. 
Walford,  Rev.  T.  D.  Fosbrooke,  who  has  illustrated  the  neighbourhood  by  his 
antiquarian  researches,  1  m.  Beyond  the  church  is  Walford  Court,  anciently 
belonging  to  the  Kyrles.  Reach  Goodrich  Rope,  a  horse  ferry,  1  m.  Inn, 
the  Ferry-house,  4^  m. 

The  earliest  authenticated  accounts  of  Goodrich  Castle  are  dated  1204; 
when  W.  Marshall,  earl  of  Pembroke,  had  a  grant  of  it  from  King  John. 
It  afterwards  was  inhabited  by  the  Talbot  family.  During  the  civil  wars 
the  king’s  party  and  the  parliamentary  forces  alternately  obtained  possession 
of  it.  It  was  then  sold  to  Thomas  Griffin,  Esq  ,  Vice  Admiral  of  the  White, 
whose  second  son,  the  Rev.  Dr.  Griffin,  of  Hadnock,  succeeded  to  it.  It 
then,  by  marriage,  became  the  property  of  Major  Marriott,  of  Newton,  Mon¬ 
mouth,  its  present  owner,  having  been  purchased  with  the  manor  from  the 
Duke  of  Kent’s  trustees.  The  following  directions  are  from  the  2d  No.  of 
Bonner’s  Itinerary,”  which  contains  ten  excellent  views  of  the  castle, 
abbey,  &c.  Having  crossed  the  river  at  the  ferry-boat,  and  a  stile  upon  the 
1.  proceed  to  the  r.  to  the  upper  end  of  the  close ;  and  in  the  next  meadow, 
a  wicker  style  conducts  you  by  a  plain  path  to  the  top  of  a  steep  wood,  when 
the  great  w.  tower  of  the  inner  ballium  breaks  into  view.  Its  appearance 
is  venerable  and  interesting,  but  it  is  rapidly  yielding  to  the  ravages  of  time. 
On  the  r.  of  this  tower  is  the  square  keep,  called  MacbetJis  Tower,  said  to 
have  been  built  by  an  Irish  commander  of  that  name,  as  a  ransom  for  him¬ 
self  and  son,  who  were  taken  prisoners  in  Ireland,  and  brought  hither.  From 
the  broken  part  to  which  the  ground  leads  on  its  r.,  is  a  descent  into  the 
inner  ballium,  through  a  breach,  by  some  stone  steps.  The  door  leads  to 
the  dungeon.  Below  this  and  Macbeth’s  Tower  are  the  small  remains  of 
the  s.w.  wall  of  the  inner  ballium,  attached  to  the  s.  tower,  which  is  finely 
hooded  with  ivy.  The  great  buttress,  which  it  covers,  is  the  chimney-place. 
The  openings  beyond  and  broken  projections  of  the  angle  belong  to  the  n., 
or  Ladies’  Tower.  The  ground  below  is  the  outer  ballium.  A  station  to 
the  r.,  parallel  with  the  former,  facing  the  great  tower  produces  a  view  in 
front  of  the  South  Tower  of  the  inner  ballium,  with  the  w.  and  e.  towers 
as  they  flank  its  walls.  This  tower  is  bedecked  with  ivy  and  propped  by 
angular  buttresses.  The  w.  tower  from  this  station  presents  a  chasm  not 
seen  from  the  former.  The  broken  parts  upon  the  summit  of  the  s.e.  wall, 
were  the  barracks;  the  higher  projecting  part  adjoining  is  the  tower,  which 
flanks  it  on  the  e.,  and  contains  the  chapel.  The  top  of  this  and  that  of 


ROSS. 


t 


541 


the  watch-house^  v/as  the  situation  of  the  corps  de  garde.  The  bridge  and 
castle  gate  are  defended  upon  each  side  by  this  and  another  tower  at  the 
E.  angle  ;  the  former  has  one  semicircular  arch^  and  another  acutely  pointed. 
The  top  is  the  level  of  the  ground  in  the  inner  ballium_,  and  the  bottom  of 
the  pier  is  the  depth  of  the  fosse_,  graffe^  or  ditch  of  the  ballium,  which  is 
hewn  out  of  the  rock  to  the  breadth  of  20  yards_,  on  the  s.  and  s.  e.  From 
some  trees  seen  above  the  highest  part  of  the  castle,  may  be  taken  an 
inside  view  from  the  w.  of  the  inner  ballium.  After  the  castle  gate,  that 
which  is  pointed  was  the  only  entrance  to  the  inner  ballium,  its  strong 
hinges  still  remain  ;  over  it  is  the  warden’s  apartment.  The  large  opening 
is  the  N.  w.  window  of  the  chapel,  in  the  earliest  Saracenic  style.  From  a 
doorway  in  this  part  is  seen  the  inside,  without  a  roof.  There  is  a  large 
projecting  fire-place  for  a  room  over  it,  and  below  a  cellar,  with  brackets 
which  supported  the  floors,  and  a  place  for  holy  water  in  the  chapel.  The 
octagon  contains  a  staircase  which  leads  to  the  apartments  over  the  chapel 
and  gate.  The  top  of  it  is  the  watch  tower,  rising  above  the  other 
buildings.  An  inside  view  from  the  e.  of  the  inner  ballium,  presents  an 
opening  in  front,  through  which  the  rock,  &c.  is  seen  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  fosse  ;  this  is  the  effect  of  decay.  It  was  the  station  from  wdiich 
the  last  description  was  made.  Proceed  to  the  inner  ballium,  and  enter 
the  door  of  the  Keep  or  Macbeth’s  Tower,  which  is  a  prominent  part  of 
the  building.  The  windows  are  Saxon ;  the  frames,  pillars,  with  round 
shafts,  have  their  usual  bases  and  caps.  Below  the  upper  window  is  a 
chevron  work  or  zigzag  ornament,  continued  upon  a  fillet  all  round.  The 
top  is  imperfect,  but  the  whole  bears  indications  of  the  12th  century.  The 
chapel  appears  to  have  been  fitted  up  at  a  much  later  period.  It  answers 
completely  to  the  description  of  an  ancient  keep  ;  this  part  was  likewise 
the  citadel  or  last  retreat  of  the  garrison,  generally  built  square,  of  several 
stories,  and  the  walls  of  an  extraordinary  thickness.  Inside  of  the  n.w. 
wall  is  a  hole  broken  through.  Nothing  remains  but  the  square  area,  the 
fire-places,  and  the  brackets  which  supported  the  floors.  On  the  s.  e.  is  a 
door  which  descends  to  a  vaulted  room  under  ground,  and  appears  to  have 
been  the  dungeon  ;  it  has  another  door  which  leads  to  it  by  a  deep  fall, 
and  a  third  which  is  seen  about  the  midway  of  the  broken  stone  steps 
leading  to  the  apartments  in  the  s.  tower,  to  the  parapet  of  the  s.  w.  wall, 
now  decayed.  The  door,  at  the  foot  of  the  steps,  leads  to  the  under  parts 
of  the  s.  tower,  the  whole  of  which  is  connected  with  a  range  of  apart¬ 
ments  on  the  1.,  which  appear  to  have  been  either  the  barracks  and  lodgings 
for  the  garrison  and  artificers,  or  granaries,  storehouses,  &;c.,  unconnected 
with  the  other  apartments  which  were  for  the  baron  or  governor  and 
family.  The  three  small  doors  near  the  corner  lead  to  the  privies,  where 
is  a  deep  vault  belonging  to  them.  The  s.  wall  is  garreted,  but  much 
broken  ;  the  openings  are  narrow  windows  and  chinks,  or  cross  loop-holes. 
The  inner  wall  of  these  barracks  may  still  be  traced.  The  great  pointed 
doorway  is  the  entrance  to  the  great  hall,  the  building  above  it  is  the  walls 
of  the  great  w.  tower.  On  viewing  the  inside  of  the  Ladies’  Tower  from 
the  S.E.,  the  apartment  on  the  1.  appears  to  have  been  the  kitchen,  by  the 
doors  descending  into  the  offices,  cellars,  &c.  of  that  tower,  in  which  the 
octagon  pillar  and  two  sharp-pointed  Saracenic  arches,  springing  from  cor¬ 
responding  brackets,  which  project  from  the  side  walls,  form  a  great  con¬ 
trast  to  the  more  ancient  parts  of  the  building.  The  track  from  this 
station  proceeds  to  the  s.w.  window,  whence  a  most  cheerful  view  is  pre¬ 
sented  over  the  Wye,  with  the  village  of  Walford,  its  handsome  church, 
and  shingled  spire,  Walford  court-house,  and  the  surrounding  woods  and 


542 


ROSS. 


hills.  The  terminating  objects  are  the  bold  coppices  of  Penyard  Cha&e 
and  Parkj  and  to  the  r.  those  of  Bishop’s  W ood^  &c.  Hence  tlirough  the 
inner  ballium  gate,  the  track  leads  to  the  door  and  narrow  passage  of  the 
two  watch-houses.  Proceeding  over  the  bridge_,  you  enter  upon  the  bar¬ 
bican  now  nearly  level  with  the  ground.  From  this  station  may  be  taken 
a  general  view  of  the  castle^  taking  in  front  the  fosse,  and  on  the  1.,  the 
s.  tower,  with  the  square  part  attached  to  it,  and  the  keep  rising  beyond, 
over  the  s.  w.  wall  of  the  inner  ballium,  which  is  from  7  to  10  ft.  thick. 
The  foremost  projecting  part  is  the  e.  tower,  flanking  the  s.  e.  wall,  and 
contains  the  chapel.  The  broken  loop-hole  was  a  window  to  the  cellar 
below  it.  Upon  the  level  surface  of  the  bridge  is  the  pit  of  the  draw¬ 
bridge,  near  the  castle-gate.  This  gate  has  sliding  grooves  for  a  portcullis. 
Re-enter  the  inner  ballium,  within  which  were  the  barracks  and  lodgings 
for  the  garrison  and  artificers,  wells,  granaries,  store- houses,  and  chapel. 
Next  visit  the  great  hall,  on  entering  which  immediately  on  the  1.  are 
stone  steps  leading  to  the  upper  part  of  the  great  w.  tower,  &c.,*  proceed 
through  a  small  door,  and  looking  up,  only  plain  walls  are  to  be  seen, 
except  fire-places  and  brackets  for  the  two  floors.  A  breach  in  the  n.  w,  wall 
allows  a  passage  to  the  outer  ballium.  Returning,  there  are  two  small 
doors  in  the  partition  wall,  besides  one  to  pass  through,  leading  to  the 
Great  Hall.  There  is  here  a  large  fire-place  and  three  slender  windows, 
with  cross  mullions,  in  the  n.w.  wall.  In  the  n.e.  wall  is  a  small  door 
leading  to  the  kitchen,  and  another  to  the  offices  under  the  Ladies’  Tower. 
Hence  proceed  back  to  the  door  you  entered  by  the  kitchen  on  the  1., 
looking  through  the  breach  as  you  pass.  Thence  into  the  cellars  of  the 
Ladies’  Tower,  where  is  the  octagon  pillar  with  its  arches,  and  pendent 
ivy.  Proceed  through  a  broken  part  of  the  North  Tower,  at  the  angle  of 
the  outer  ballium,  whence  is  a  view  of  the  breach  made  at  the  Ladies’ 
Tower  of  the  inner  ballium.  Colonel  Birch  is  said  to  have  battered  the 
part,  through  which  is  seen  an  octagonal  pillar,  with  trees  in  the  court 
over-topping  the  walls.  Up  the  river  I  m.  is  a  boat-house,  where  parties 
meet  with  the  most  respectful  attention.  Beyond  occurs 

GOODRICH  COURT, 

THE  SEAT  OF  SIR  SAMUEL  RUSH  MEVRICK,  K.  H. 

Formerly  the  residence  of  Dr.  Meyrich,  author  of  an  elaborate  work  on  the 

history  of  armour. 

The  whole  is  constructed  in  the  style  which  prevailed  from  the  close  of 
Edward  I.,  to  the  commencement  of  Edward  III,,  forming  a  unique 
and  most  interesting  feature,  admirably  harmonising  with  this  beautiful 
locality,  while  at  the  same  time  it  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  reception 
of  one  of  the  most  splendid  collections  of  armour  in  Europe.  The 
material  of  this  edifice  is  red  sandstone,  and  the  erection  reflects  great 
credit  on  the  architectural  taste  and  abilities  of  Edward  Blore,„Esq.  The 
first  stone  was  laid  by  Llywelyn  Meyrick,  Esq.,  April  23.  1838.  The  fol¬ 
lowing  is  a  summary  of  the  chief  attractions  contained  within,  as  minutely 
detailed  in  the  Wye  Tour”  of  the  Rev.  T.  D.  Fosbrooke,  a  pamphlet 
published  hy  Farrar  of  Ross,  which  every  visitor  should  procure.  Good¬ 
rich  Court  is  approached  by  a  drawbridge  from  the  warder’s  terrace.  Ad¬ 
vancing  through  the  gateway,  the  banquetting  hall,  with  portions  of  the 
E.  tower  to  the  1.,  and  the  keep  tower  on  the  r.,  appear.  Notice  the 


ROSS. 


543 


bronze  knocker  designed  by  Giovanni  di  Bologna^  representing  the  encounter 
of  Sampson  with  the  Philistines.  The  Entrance  Hall  is  adorned  with 
stags’  horns  and  ancient  weapons.  An  oriel  window,,  superbly  fitted  up 
with  painted  glass,,  represents  the  figure  of  Meurig  ab  Llywelyn  of  Bo- 
dorgan,  with  the  family  arms.  The  lamp  in  the  staircase  was  dug  out  of 
the  ruins  of  Herculaneum.  To  the  1.  occurs  Henry  Vi's  Gallery,  the 
walls  of  scarlet^  and  terminating  with  a  recessed  groined  arch.  The  cornice 
of  the  Asiatic  Armoury  is  taken  from  the  Alhambra.  Here  the  mounted 
figure  of  an  Indian  Rajah  on  his  Arabian  steed^  produces  a  powerful  effect 
on  the  mind  of  the  visitor.  Figures  on  horseback,,  and  others  standing, 
exhibit  varieties  of  Indian  and  Persian  armour.  Hindoo  deities  and  several 
rare  Chinese  curiosities  are  arranged  in  glass  cases.  Next  in  order  is  the 
South  Sea  Room,  containing  rude  weapons,  feathered  clothes,  &c.  of  the 
islanders  of  the  Pacific.  This  apartment  is  quitted  for  another  portion  of 
Henry  Vi's  Gallery,  106  ft.  in  length.  A  painted  glass  window  represents 
St.  George  in  fluted  armour,  dated  1517.  The  most  magnificent  suit  of 
armour  perhaps  in  existence  occurs  on  a  figure  in  a  niche  on  the  right 
hand.  It  was  made  for  the  Duke  of  Ferrara,  to  whom  Tasso  dedicated 
his  Jerusalem  Delivered.”  Folding  doors  open  to  the  Banqueting  Hall, 
in  length  50  ft.  Through  an  oriel  window  is  a  charming  view  of  the 
Castle,  Wye,  and  valley  of  Lea  Bailey.  This  apartment  is  painted  crimson, 
powdered  with  gold  fleurs-de-lis.  Among  the  portraits  is  an  excellent 
picture  of  Philip  II.  by  Coallo.  Also  a  spirited  portrait  of  Sir  Samuel, 
by  Briggs ;  and  another  of  his  son,  in  a  thunder  storm,  by  Westall. 
Folding  doors  lead  to  the  Hastilude  Chamber,  in  which  tournament  armour 
is  so  arranged  as  to  give  a  complete  representation  of  a  joust,  with  all  the 
varieties  of  hasting  harness,”  from  Henry  VI.  to  Elizabeth  inclusive. 
Next  is  opened  the  Grand  Armoury ,  86  ft.  in  length:  the  roof,  floor,  and 
gallery  on  three  sides,  are  of  oak.  Ten  glass  cases  contain  the  more 
curious  and  rare  specimens  of  armour.  Above  are  emblazoned  banners  of 
Edward  II.,  his  son,  and  eight  knights  holding  lands  in  Herefordshire. 
Ten  suits  of  armour,  on  horseback,  in  niches,  and  several  on  foot  from 
Edward  III.  to  James  II.  This  assemblage  forms  the  most  compre¬ 
hensive  and  instructive  collection  of  the  kind  in  the  whole  world.  A 
passage  from  the  Armoury  leads  to  the  Ante  Chapel,  in  which  are  two 
Welsh  monumental  inscriptions  of  the  6th  century.  Three  steps  lead  to 
the  Chapel  fitted  up  in  the  Romish  style. 

The  foregoing  is  a  list  of  all  the  apartments  shown  to  the  public.  The 
Dining  Room  is  in  keeping  with  the  exterior  of  the  building,  and  contains 
a  valuable  collection  of  paintings  by  Dutch  and  English  artists.  The 
Breakfast  Room  is  furnished  in  the  gorgeous  style  of  Queen  Anne’s  time. 
In  the  Drawing  Room,  the  roof  of  which  is  groined  with  gilt  bosses,  the 
style  of  Edward  II.  is  again  preserved.  The  Doucean  Museum  is  a  most 
splendid  and  valuable  collection  of  works  of  art,  antiquities,  and  scientific 
objects,  bequeathed  by  that  eminent  antiquary,  the  late  Francis  Douce,  Esq. 
Among  the  upper  apartments  is  Sir  Geliy  s  (Gethley’s)  Chamber,  so  called 
after  that  ancestor  of  Sir  Samuel,  who  first  settled  in  Herefordshire.  This 
room  is  decorated  with  the  most  exquisite  panelling  taken  from  a  house  at 
Malines  in  which  Rubens  used  to  paint.  James  I.’s  Room,  Charles  I. ’s  Room, 
Charles  II. ’s  Gallery,  William  Ill.’s  Room,  Prince’s  Chamber  and  Greek 
Room,  contain  each  some  specimens  of  beautiful  and  rare  productions  of 
taste.  By  the  kind  permission  of  the  worthy  proprietor,  free  access  to 
this  interesting  mansion  is  cheerfully  accorded  to  the  public  at  all  times. 

Flanesford  (now  called  Goodrich)  Priory,  is  situated  in  a  fertile  vale. 


544 


ROSS. 


about  4  m.  below  the  castle.  It  was  a  monastery  of  black  canons  regular 
of  St.  Augustine_,  founded  1347,  by  Sir  Richard  Talbot.  It  is  now  used 
as  a  barn. 

After  contemplating  these  venerable  remains  of  antiquity^  the  beauties  of 
the  surrounding  country  are  worth  exploring,  and  may  be  accomplished  in 
an  easy  walk.  By  descending  thence  to  the  river  and  bending  a  course 
along  its  banks  for  about  f  m..  Copped  Wood  Hill  is  presented.  The  ascent 
will  be  relieved  by  a  perpetual  change  of  scenery.  The  n.  extremity 
should  be  first  attained,  where  the  current  of  the  river  dashes  against 
the  base  of  the  rock,  whence  it  glides  in  a  horse-shoe  course  of  5  m.,  and 
revisits  the  hill  again  at  its  s.  extremity,  at  the  distance  only  of  1  m. 
across  the  neck  of  land.  Penyard  Park  and  Chase,  form  a  noble  back 
scenery.  Mr.  Osborne  purchased  it  from  J.  Partridge,  Esq.,  who  resides 
at  Bishop’s  Wood  House.  Here  the  prospect,  intersected  by  small  groves 
and  thickets,  diversified  with  rock,  neat  cottages,  and  detached  enclosures, 
presents  a  striking  peculiarity  of  style.  If  vou  proceed  a  little  further 
to  a  small  white  building,  formerly  the  residence  of  a  rabbit  warrener,  you 
command  a  view  of  the  counties  of  Hereford,  Monmouth,  Salop,  W or- 
cester,  and  Gloucester,  in  England ;  and  those  of  Glamorgan,  Brecon,  and 
Radnor,  in  Wales.  The  less  distant  parts  of  the  picture  are  enriched  by 
the  village  of  Rure-dean,  3  m.  to  the  e.  in  the  forest  of  Dean,  appearing 
hence  on  the  summit  of  a  beautiful  lawn  winged  by  firs  and  forest  oaks, 
with  the  river  at  its  foot.  To  the  n.  appears  the  spire  of  Ross,  rising  out 
of  lofty  elms.  In  the  circle,  nearer  to  view,  are  the  villages  of  Whitchurch, 
Goodrich,  Croose,  Pen  creek,  and  Walford.  For  a  mile  in  length,  the 
surface  of  this  hill  is  nearly  level,  exceedingly  pleasant  and  safe,  whether 
on  foot  or  on  horseback.  Proceeding  along  the  path,  you  have  in  view  the 
half-modernised  mansion,  venerable  woods,  and  hanging  gardens  of  Court 
Field,  W.  Vaughan,  Esq.  Henry,  prince  of  Wales,  born  1388  at  Mon¬ 
mouth  Castle,  and  therefore  called  Harry  of  Monmouth,  passed  his  child¬ 
hood  here.  His  cradle  is  now  to  be  seen  at  Troy  House,  the  seat  of  the 
Duke  of  Beaufort.  From  the  excellent  quarry  of  this  place,  the  stone  was 
supplied  to  build  the  bridge  at  Bristol ;  hence  an  interesting  view  may  be 
seen  of  Bishop’s  Wood,  where  was  formerly  an  iron  foundery.  Here,  and  at 
the  New  Weir,  business  seems  to  have  found  a  convenient  situation  even 
in  retirement.  The  village  of  Lidhrook,  whence  the  city  and  greatest  part 
of  the  county  of  Hereford  are  supplied  with  coal ;  the  churches  of  Welsh 
and  English  Bicknor,  and  Stanton;  and  Forest  of  Dean,  contribute  to 
enrich  the  view.  On  arriving  at  the  extremity,  which  is  bounded  by  the 
river,  a  range  of  massy  and  stupendous  rocks,  on  the  summit  of  the 
opposite  shore,  excites  an  awful  admiration.  The  largest  and  most  ele¬ 
vated  of  these  rocks  is  called  Symo7id's  Yatt  or  Gate,  and  is  often  visited  by 
large  parties  in  the  summer  months,  for  the  sake  of  the  extraordinary 
prospects  from  it.  Welsh  Bicknor  Church,  at  the  distance  of  about  m. 
from  Court  Field,  is  visited  by  the  antiquary  on  account  of  a  sepulchral 
effigy,  said  to  represent  the  Countess  of  Salisbury,  who  nursed  Henry  V. 
Mr.  Coxe  concludes  his  history  of  the  proprietors  of  this  manor  with  the 
following  anecdote  of  the  vigorous  old  age  of  an  ancestor  of  the  present 
possessor.  Walking  one  day  with  his  son,  who  had  been  long  married 
without  issue,  he  challenged  him  to  leap  over  a  gate.  The  son  attempted 
it  without  success ;  on  which  the  old  gentleman  vaulted  over  it  with  great 
agility,  adding,  As  I  have  cleared  the  gate  for  you,  so  I  must  even  provide 
you  with  an  heir.”  And  he  fulfilled  his  proposal  by  espousing,  at  the  age 
of  75,  Agatha,  daughter  of  John  Berrington,  Esq.,  of  Cowame  Court, 


ROSS. 


545 


Herefordshire,  by  whom  he  left  a  son  and  three  daughters.  In  Goodrich 
Church,  s.  of  the  castle,  are  deposited  the  remains  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Swift, 

.  grandfather  of  Dean  Swift,  and  vicar  of  the  parish  for  34  years.  A  silver 
chalice  used  in  this  church  was  presented  by  the  dean  in  the  year  1726. 
Passing  down  the  river,  a  rich  and  extensive  view  of  the  Forest  of 
Dean,  whence  Rure-dean  Church  happily  breaks  upon  the  eye.  Here  the 
Wye  in  a  long  and  serpentine  reach,  appears  in  perspective,  affording  a 
pleasing  termination  to  the  scenery  ;  its  banks  are  screened  on  the  s.  by  an 
extensive  coppice  wood,  and  on  the  n.  by  fertile  meadows  rising  towards 
Bishops  Wood,  from  which  a  considerable  iron  furnace  in  tliis  vicinity 
derives  its  name.  From  Lidbrook  large  quantities  of  coal  are  sent  to  Ross 
and  Hereford.  The  stone  quarries  in  this  neighbourhood  supplied  ma¬ 
terials  for  building  the  bridge  at  Bristol.  Passing  down  the  river,  the 
next  object  which  attracts  notice  is  Courtfield,  the  seat  of  the  Vaughans. 
[See  Wye.]  The  picturesque  village  of  Welsh  Bicknor  presents  itself 
in  a  rich  valley  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Wye,  happily  overshaded  by  a 
thicket  of  woods  ranged  in  a  grand  and  circular  sweep.  These  are  called 
Hawkwood  and  Packwood,  extending  1  m.  along  the  bank  of  the  river. 
The  village  church  and  parsonage  house  here  group  in  a  form  peculiarly 
beautiful  and  interesting.  In  the  body  of  the  church,  fronting  the  reading- 
desk,  is  a  recumbent  whole-length  female  figure  well  sculptured,  in  a 
darkish- coloured  stone,  said  to  represent  the  Countess  of  Salisbury  before 
mentioned.  At  English  Bicknor  are  traces  of  a  castellated  mansion.  A 
little  below,  the  W ye  is  bounded  on  the  opposite  shore  by  a  long  range  of 
hills  clothed  with  verdure,  and  diversified  by  a  rich  and  broken  soil  of  a 
warm  and  reddish  hue.  Approaching  the  foot  of  Coldwell  Rocks,  6j  m.,  a 
scene  sublime  and  majestic  is  presented.  The  grand  prominences  are  over¬ 
hung  with  richly  varied  tufts  of  oak  and  shrubs,  occasionally  contrasted 
and  relieved  by  deep  and  shadowy  dells  formed  by  the  various  lime-kilns 
on  their  surface.  Close  to  the  river,  beneath  the  shade  of  a  dark  wood 
near  Coldwell,  appears  a  monumental  stone,  to  a  young  man  who  perished 
there.  The  inscription  informs  the  passenger  that  his  name  was  John 
Whitehead  Warre,  who  was  unfortunately  drowned  near  the  spot  while 
bathing,  even  in  sight  of  his  parents,  brother,  and  sisters,  on  Sept,  the  14th, 
1804,  in  the  l6th  year  of  his  age.  The  monument  is  professedly  erected 
as  a  beacon  to  warn  the  unwary,  and  conveys  ideas  of  deep  regret  that 
the  means  used  by  the  Humane  Society  were  not  known  when  the  accident 
happened  ;  but  for  the  benefit  of  others  we  are  informed  that  an  apparatus 
with  directions,  are  now  lodged  in  the  church  of  Coldwell.  The  deceased 
was  born  at  Oporto,  Feb.  14.  1789^  soil  of  James  Warre,  of  London  and 
of  Somersetshire,  merchant.  The  epitaph  is  long  and  badly  written. 
Here  Mr.  Ireland  quitted  the  barge  to  ascend  these  majestic  rocks.  The 
task,  though  arduous,  should  not,  he  says,  deter  the  traveller  from  pursuing 
this  course,  as  he  will  avoid  a  dull  and  uninteresting  passage  upon  the 
water  of  3  m.  From  the  summit,  Goodrich  Castle  breaks  suddenly  on  the 
eye.  The  New  Wear  and  adjoining  waterfall,  with  the  surrounding  heathy 
hills,  afford  a  rich  combination  of  objects.  Upon  the  r.  bank  is  Rock- 
lands,  the  seat  of  H.  W.  Ross,  Esq.,  who  purchased  it.  The  village  of 
Whitchurch  in  the  centre  of  the  vale  beneath,  with  the  vast  hills  beyond, 
give  a  termination  to  this  reach  of  the  river.  Here  is  a  second  ferry  called 
Ham-Hunt' s  Ropje,  which,  though  7  ni.  distant  from  that  at  Goodrich  by 
water,  is  only  1]  m.  by  land.  At  the  bottom  of  Sgmond's  Yatt,  the  com¬ 
pany  usually  disembark,  mount  the  summit,  and  descending  on  the  other 
side,  join  the  boat  at  the  New  Wear.  From  the  top  of  Symond’s  Yatt, 

N  N 


546 


ROSS. 


not  less  than  500  ft.  in  height  above  the  surface  of  the  water^  the  spectator 
enjoys  a  singular  view  of  the  numerous  mazes  of  the  Wye,  and  looks  down 
on  the  river,  watering  each  side  of  the  narrow  and  precipitous  peninsula 
upon  which  it  stands.  Descending  to  the  New  Wear,  hy  the  same  kind  of 
rugged  course  as  that  by  which  the  Coldwell  rocks  are  attained,  the  fatigue 
is  amply  repaid  by  an  abundance  of  beautiful  views,  which  appear  through 
the  breaks  in  the  rocks  or  openings  of  the  woods.  Some  travellers  do  not 
ascend  to  the  summit,  preferring  the  navigation,  because  unwilling  to  lose 
the  beauties  of  the  ever  shifting  scenery  and  a  succession  of  home  scenes 
upon  the  hanks  beneath,  to  the  boundless  expanse  of  prospect  from  above. 

Adjoining  to  Whitchurch  is  King  Arthur’s  Plain,  or  the  Great  Doward, 
an  extensive  stratified  limestone  mountain.  The  Little  Doward  is  a  British 
camp,  with  an  entrenchment  separated  by  a  small  valley,  in  which  lies  a 
singularly  picturesque  estate,  called  the  Kiln  House  Farm,  To  the  embold¬ 
ened  traveller  the  summits  of  these  hills  afford  ample  variety  of  the  beautiful 
and  sublime.  At  a  spot  adjoining  to  the  wood  upon  the  extremity  of  this  valley 
is  a  cavern  bearing  the  name  King  Arthur  s  Hall.  Many  fabulous  tales  attach 
to  this  excavation ;  the  truth  is,  that  it  was  once  a  rich  mine  of  iron  ore,  which 
supplied  the  contiguous  furnaces.  A  detached  cluster  of  rocks  called  St. 
Martins,  or  the  Three  Sisters,  skirt  the  river  in  passing  down,  near  which 
at  a  short  reach  called  St.  Martin’s  Well,  the  stream  is  supposed  to  be 
deeper  than  in  any  other  part.  At  the  extremity  of  this  reach,  from  a  beautiful 
vale.  King  Arthur’s  Plain  again  presents  itself,  assuming  a  castellated  form. 

We  now  arrive  at  New  Weir,  4]  m.  on  the  r.  and  pass  the  only  lock  on 
the  Wye.  The  iron  works  were  erected  here  about  l687,  by  George 
White.  Next  occurs  the  Leys  House,  a  delightful  residence  of  Mr.  Meek. 
The  Wye,  sweeping  to  the  r.,  exhibits  the  newly-built  residence  called  Vaga 
Cottage  ;  and  about  2  m.  short  of  Monmouth  is  situated  upon  the  edge  of 
the  forest  of  Dean,  and  stands  upon  the  brow  of  a  hill,  commanding  a  de¬ 
lightful  view  of  the  meandering  W ye.  Hence  a  road  runs  parallel  with  the 
river  along  the  base  of  the  hills  to  Monmouth.  A  distant  view  of  the  bridge 
and  town  of  Monmouth  soon  appears,  with  the  solitary  church  of  Diocon 
upon  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river. 

The  DIRECT  ROAD  TO  GooDRiCH  Ferry  is  SL  retired  and  pleasant  ride  of 
little  more  than  3  m.  in  a  s.  direction.  For  a  few  paces  from  the  town, 
the  road  veers  rather  to  the  1.  leaving  that  which  leads  to  Monmouth  on  the 
r.  it  is  afterwards  direct.  At  the  distance  of  about  2  m.  from  Ross,  upon 
an  eminence  on  the  r.,  stands  a  handsome  mansion  called  Hill  Court,  the 
residence  of  K.  Evans,  Esq.  From  the  spot  before  the  gate  of  the  pleasure 
grounds  Goodrich  Castle  is  seen  upon  an  eminence,  gracefully  clothed  with 
wood.  On  a  nearer  approach,  the  majesty  of  the  castle  upon  its  rocky  preci¬ 
pice  strikes  the  observer  with  an  idea  of  awful  grandeur  !  The  ferry-house 
upon  the  opposite  side  affords  wholesome  refreshment,  a  guide  to  the  castle, 
and  a  pleasure-boat.  Previous  to  crossing  the  water  it  would  be  well  worth 
the  time  and  trouble  to  walk  along  the  meadows,  up  the  stream  |  m.  whence 
may  be  seen  the  elevation  and  aspect  of  the  castle  on  the  s.  e.  bank  of  the 
Wye,  standing  upon  the  extremity  of  its  own  promontory,  the  river  winding 
gracefully  in  a  serpentine  direction,  until  it  sweeps  along  its  base,  and 
retires  by  that  of  Copped-wood  Hill. 

About  3  m.  to  the  e.  from  Ross,  and  nearly  1  m.  to  the  s.  of  the  road  lead¬ 
ing  TO  Gloucester,  is  Rose,  or  May,  or  Bury  Hill  [Hoaie  says  Bolitree], 
the  undoubted  site  of  the  Ariconium  of  Antoninus,  which  Camden  and 
other  antiquaries  have  placed  at  Ken  Chester  ;  but  which  Horseley,  on  un¬ 
questionable  grounds,  removes  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Ross.  Mr.  Foshrooke 
says,  To  show  the  care  taken  even  in  the  narrow  district  of  Ross,  there 


ROSS. 


547 


was  a  station  called  Bury  Hill  in  Weston  parish  ;  a  camp  in  Penyard  Chase, 
and  a  British  track-way  runs  behind  Old  Hill  to  the  ford  at  Goodrich, 
where  it  terminates  in  a  meadow.  On  the  final  conquest  by  the  Romans, 
this  part  of  the  country  was  part  of  the  province  of  Britannia  Secunda, 
under  the  government  of  a  president  residing  at  Caerleon.  When  the 
Britons  resumed  their  independence  in  the  time  of  Honorius  and  Con¬ 
stantins,  one  Caradog  was  king  in  these  parts.  About  2  m.  from  Perry- 
stone,  separated  by  the  Wye,  is  a  mansion  called  Cradock ;  but  legendary 
accounts  have  assigned  it  to  one  of  the  knights  of  Arthur’s  Round  Table, 
called  Cradock  Freich  Fras.  Except  the  foundations  of  rude  stones,  the 
palaces  of  British  kings  consisted  of  basket-work.”  (^Sammes  Britannia 
p.  213.  Wye  Tour,  v.)  Traversing  a  well  cultivated  district,  where  numer¬ 
ous  gentle  hills  are  clothed  with  apple  orchards,  at  the  distance  of  6  m.  over 
a  bad  road,  a  heathy  eminence  is  gained,  whence  the  great  plain  of  Gloucester 
appears,  stretching  to  an  immense  distance  in  every  direction.  At  the  ex¬ 
tremity  of  this  fine  vale  rise  the  towers  and  spires  of  Gloucester,  faintly 
distinguished  from  the  Cotteswold  Hills,  the  high  continuous  summits  of 
which  are  strongly  contrasted  by  the  broken  form  of  the  Malvern  Hills  far 
distant  on  the  1. 

On  the  turnpike-road  to  Monmouth  cross  the  Wye  to  Wilton,  ^m.  (on 
the  r.  is  the  road  to  Hereford,  134*)  ;  Upper  Weir  7  fur. ;  Lower  Weir,  5 
fur.;  to  Pencraig,  1  m.  3  fur.  From  this  place  is  a  very  magnificent  view. 
The  distant  church  of  Ross,  its  neighbouring  woods  and  hills,  the  meandering 
stream  of  the  Wye,  all  combine  to  form  the  fascinating  scene.  Amidst  a  va¬ 
riety  of  enchanting  prospects  which  the  distance  from  one  bend  of  the  river 
to  another  produces,  Goodrich  Castle,  upon  the  summit  of  a  bold  promontory 
clothed  with  wood,  presents  its  aspiring  battlements.  About  1  m.  below  the 
fortress  are  the  remains  of  Goodrich  Priory.  Good^nch  Cross,  1  m.  1  fur.  (on 
the  1.  is  the  residence  of  the  Rev.  M.  H.  Jones,  and  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
castle,)  ;  to  Old  Ford,  across  the  river  Garron,  the  course  of  which  on  to  the 
1.  is  to  the  Wye,  ^  m. ;  Whitchurch,  1  m.  1  fur.  Genarew  and  church.  Major 
Marriott  and  Rev.E.  Perks,  vicar;  1  m,  1  fur.  Bixton  and  Church,  1  m.  1  fur.. 
Miss  Griffin  ;  Monmouth,  1  m., — in  the  whole  10  m.  3  fur.  The  ride  over 
Wilton  bridge  is  beautiful.  TTere  not  the  approach  to  Goodrich  Castle  too 
interesting  to  be  given  up,  parties  taking  the  tour  down  the  Wye  would 
see  the  country  to  a  much  greater  advantage  by  forwarding  their  boats  to 
Ross,  pursuing  this  route,  and  embarking  at  Goodrich  ;  there  being  no 
variety  or  object  worthy  of  notice  for  nearly  4  m.  after  passing  Wilton 
Castle.  At  Pencraig  Hill  occurs  an  uncommonly  fine  landscape.  The 
Wye  meanders  along  the  vale,  passing  Goodrich  Castle  on  the  r.,  with  an 
extent  of  hill,  vale,  wood,  and  water,  that  baffles  description.  The  castles 
of  Wilton  and  Goodrich  should  be  visited,  first  sleeping  at  Monmouth  ; 
the  next  day  Tintern  Abbey  and  Chepstow. 

The  distance  from  Ross  to  Chepstow,  in  a  straight  line,  is  not  more  than 
l6i  miles  ;  but  owing  to  the  sinuosity  of  the  river,  the  voyage  by  water  is 
nearly  43  miles.  The  boats  descend  with  the  current,  and  are  towed  back 
by  men  :  this  laborious  task  may  account  for  the  expensive  hire  of  a  boat, 
which,  it  is  said,  amounts  to  three  guineas  ;  a  large  boat  four  guineas  ;  the 
wages  to  each  man  amounts  to  l6^.  Inns.  —  The  newly  erected  Hotel  at  the 
N.  of  the  town,  in  the  castellated  form,  not  only  affords  accommodations  of 
the  highest  order,  but  adds  greatly  to  the  picturesque  effect  of  the  road  from 
Hereford.  The  King’s  Head  is  also  an  excellent  posting-house.  Swan. 

To  Monmouth,  upon  the  Wye,  25  miles.  Gilpin  ;  I  To  Gloucester,  16a  miles.  Barber. 

Skrine.  Goodrich  Castle,  4.J  miles. 

Monmouth,  the  turnpike-road,  10^  miles.  (  Ledbury,  12^  miles. 

N  N  2 


348 


RUABON. 

From  Wrexham,  5A  miles.  Wyndbam.  From  Llangollen,  7  miles.  Pennant;  Gilpin; 

Chirk,  miles.  Skrine;  Bingley.  Pugh. 

RUABON,  or  Rhiw-Fabon,  a  village  in  the  hundred  of  Bromfield, 
Denbighshire,  is  pleasantly  situated  upon  rising  ground.  The  Church  is  a 
good  building,  presumed  to  have  been  founded  by  Mahon,  a  brother  of 
Llywelyn.  Here  are.  several  marble  monuments,  which  deserve  notice. 
One  to  the  memory  of  the  first  Sir  Watkin  Williams  M^ynn,  of  'whom  a 
fall  from  his  horse  deprived  the  world  of  a  valuable  citizen,  on  the  26th  of 
Sept.  1749;.  aged  41  years.  Rysbrack  has  preserved  his  figure  in  a  graceful 
attitude  ;  clad  in  a  loose  robe,  and  his  hands  outspread  as  if  in  the  act  of 
a  Idressing  an  assembly.  On  one  side  is  the  likeness  of  his  son,  and  on  the 
other  that  of  his  daughter,  both  kneeling,  their  hands  placed  upon  their 
breasts  ;  and  the  late  Dr.  King  has  expressed  the  qualities  of  his  mind  in  a 
long  Latin  inscription,  certainly  not  more  lavish  of  praise  than  he  merited 
both  as  a  member  of  the  senate  and  a  true  patriot. 

A  friend  to  truth  !  of  soul  sincere. 

In  action  faithful,  and  in  honour  clear! 

Who  broke  no  promise,  served  no  private  end, 

Who  gain’d  no  title,  and  who  lost  no  friend  !” 

The  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Sir  \Uatkin  \Uilliams  Wynn, 
Bart.,  and  another  to  his  wife.  Lady  Rennetta,  by  Nollekens,  prove  that  the 
art  of  sculpture  maintains  considerable  importance  in  this  kingdom.  The 
latter  represents  that  amiable  female  in  the  character  of  Hope,  standing  and 
reclining  her  elbow  upon  an  urn,  with  the  accompaniment  of  an  anchor. 
The  features,  the  attitude,  and  the  drapery,  are  exquisitely  fine.  The  figure 
is  placed  upon  a  pedestal  in  the  shape  of  a  Roman  altar  upon  which  is  the 
following  inscription  : Sacred  to  the  memory  of  the  Right  Honourable 
Lady  Rennetta  Williams  Wynn  (third  daughter  of  Charles  Duke  of 
Beaufort,  and  Elizabeth  his  wife,  daughter  of  John  Berkeley  of  Stoke,  in 
Gloucestershire,  Esq.)  Born  Mar.  26.  1748;  married  to  Sir  W.  W.  \Uynn, 
Bart.,  April  IS.,  and  died  July  24.,  1769»  aged  21  years.”  A  mural  monu¬ 
ment  for  Henry  Wynn,  Esq.  10th  son  of  Sir  John  Wynn  of  Gwydir,  who 
died  in  1671)  represents  a  personage  clad  in  a  full  bottomed  coat,  short 
skirts,  with  square-toed  boots.  Two  accompanying  figures,  Sir  John  Wynn, 
of  Wynnstay,  Bart.,  and  Jane  his  wife,  both  in  a  supplicating  posture,  are 
badly  executed.  Sir  John  Wynn,  son  of  the  before-mentioned  Sir  John 
Wynn,  lies  beneath,  with  his  wife  the  heiress  of  Wattstay.  He  died  at  the 
age  of  9I)  in  the  year  I7I8.  In  a  chapel  on  the  s.  side  of  the  communion 
table  is  an  altar-tomb,  upon  which  lie  two  recumbent  figures ;  one  repre¬ 
sents  a  man  clad  in  armour,  a  helmet  supporting  his  liead,  with  a  collar 
marked  S.  S. ;  the  other  a  female  resting  upon  a  mantle.  Round  the  edge 
of  the  sarcophagus,  a  Latin  inscription  indicates  that  these  commemorate 
John  ap  Elis  Eyton,  Esq.,  who  died  in  1526,  and  Elizabeth  Calfley,  his 
wife,  who  died  in  1524.  The  living  of  Ruabon  is  a  vicarage,  the  Bishop 
of  St.  Asaph,  patron.  The  late  Sir  Watkin  presented  the  church  with  a 
handsome  organ,  and  a  marble  font  upon  a  tripod  of  great  elegance.  In 
1801  the  population  of  the  parish  was  4483  ;  in  1831,  9685.  The  Mar¬ 
ket  is  on  Monday,  the  Fairs  are  the  last  Friday  in  February,  May  22., 
and  Nov.  20.  The  petty  Sessions  for  the  division  of  Ruabon  are  held 
here. 


RUABON. 


549 


Dr.  David  Powell,  who  translated  into  English  the  History  of  Wales, 
originally  drawn  up  by  Caradoc  of  Llancarfan,  with  a  continuation  by 
Humphrey  Llwyd,  was  a  native  and  held  the  vicarage  of  this  place  with 
Llanvyllin.  He  was  instituted  to  Ruabon  in  the  year  1571?  and  edited 
the  works  of  Giraldus,  subjoining  annotations.  He  published  also  a  treatise 
entitled  De  Britannica  Historia  recte  intelligenda,’’  and  dying  in  1590, 
left  for  posterity  a  large  collection  of  Welsh  manuscripts.  He  was  ap¬ 
pointed  chaplain  to  Sir  Henry  Sydney,  and  interred  here;  a  small  mural 
monument  marks  the  spot. 

At  this  place  is  a  comfortable  Inn,  whence  the  park  gate  of  Wynnstay 
is  seen,  the  seat  of  Sir  Watkin  Williams  Wynn,  Bart,,  whose  patriotic  and 
devoted  attachment  to  national  objects  has  never  been  surpassed.  With 
permission,  the  traveller  may  examine  its  varied  and  magnificent  improve¬ 
ments.  The  avenue  is  formed  of  oaks,  elms,  beeches,  chestnuts,  and 
planes,  which  extend  1  m.  One  oak,  called  the  King,”  measures  30  ft. 
in  circumference.  A  carriage  road  leads  into  a  spacious  lawn,  upon  which 
stands  Wynnstay  Hall.  Raised  at  different  periods  and  in  various  styles 
of  architecture,  this  mansion  cannot  be  placed  in  competition  with  many 
elegant  and  more  stately  structures.  The  interior  of  the  new  part  contains 
several  spacious  apartments,  in  which  are  some  good  portraits  of  the 
Wynns,  the  Williams’s,  the  Seymours,  &c.  A  head  of  Sir  Richard 
Wynn,  gentleman  of  the  berlchamber  to  Charles  II.,  by  Vandyke,  is  much 
admired.  A  half-length  figure  of  the  last  Sir  John  Wynn,  by  Godfrey 
Kneller,  reminds  us  of  Walpole’s  remark,  that  where  he  offered  one 
picture  to  fame,  he  sacrificed  twenty  to  lucre.”  An  engraving  of  this  is  given 
in  Yorke’s  Royal  Tribes.”  Adjoining  the  house  is  a  neat  small  build¬ 
ing  fitted  up  as  a  theatre,  by  the  late  proprietor,  and  was  opened  for  a  week 
during  the  Christmas  holidays  in  every  year.  The  present  owner  has,  how¬ 
ever,  happily  divested  the  room  of  its  Thespian  ornaments,  and  appropriated 
it  to  an  Agricultural  Meeting,  as  an  auxiliary  to  the  society  at  Wrexham. 
An  annual  show  of  cattle  is  held  at  Wynnstay,  where  premiums  are  ad¬ 
judged  for  the  best  of  every  species  of  stock,  for  ploughing  the  greatest 
number  of  acres  with  two  horses  abreast,  without  a  driver,  &:c.  This 
agrestian  fete  is  held  in  the  month  of  September,  when  a  numerous  and 
respectable  assemblage  of  practical  agriculturists  attend.  From  500  to  700 
visitors  have  the  honour  of  dining  with  Sir  Watkin,  and  others  at  the  same 
time  enjoy  a  most  cordial  welcome  at  his  princely  board.  This  magnificent 
domain  was  anciently  the  residence  of  Madog  ap  Gryffydd  Maelor,  lord 
of  Bromfield,  and  founder  of  Vale  Crucis  Abbey. 

The  Park,  from  a  portion  of  the  ancient  rampart,  called  Watt’s  Dike, 
running  through  this  part  of  the  estate,  was  denominated  Wattstay  ;  but 
when  the  heiress  of  the  property,  a  daughter  of  Eyton  Evans,  married 
Sir  John  Wynn,  the  new  proprietor  enclosed  the  grounds  with  a  lofty  stone 
wall  in  1678,  forming  them  into  a  park  8  m.  in  circumference  ;  the  name 
was  changed  to  Wynnstay.  Though  the  surface  of  the  ground  is  not 
greatly  diversified,  yet  being  well  wooded,  and  aided  much  by  the  interpo¬ 
sition  of  art,  the  spot  possesses  advantages  which  render  it  delightful. 
Both  the  near  and  distant  views  are  distinct,  and  extremely  fine,  especially 
towards  the  Berwyn  chain  of  mountains,  with  the  majestic  natural  breach 
in  it  beyond  Llangollen,  through  which,  in  turbulent  grandeur,  rolls  the 
rapid  Dee.  The  recent  improvements  consist  of  baths,  new  plantations, 
and  a  fine  sheet  of  water.  Under  the  direction  of  John  Evans,  Esq.,  of 
Llwyn-y-groes  (wlio  published  a  nine-sheet  map  of  N.  Wales,  made  from 
actual  surveys),  the  waters  of  the  small  brook  Belan,  and  some  other  rills. 


550 


RUABON. 


were  so  united  as  to  form  a  considerable  torrent^  dashing  over  artificial 
rock-workj  covered  with  moss  and  lichens^  assuming  the  appearance  of  a 
natural  cascade,  similar  to  one  in  the  Marquess  of  Lansdowne’s  park  at 
Caine.  Hence  the  stream  winds  through  the  Bath  or  Belan  grounds  form¬ 
ing  the  beautiful  lake  now  skirted  with  lofty  woods,  where  formerly  some 
stinted  hawthorns  were  almost  tlie  sole  possessors  of  the  soil.  To  those 
who  can  remember  its  then  rude  and  rugged  state,,  the  change  must  appear 
the  work  of  some  potent  enchanter,  whose  only  spells,  however,  were 
industry  and  munificence,  guided  by  the  faculty  of  taste.  (See  the  Bees,” 
a  poem,  by  Dr.  Evans,  son  of  the  topographic  surveyor,  printed  at  Shrews¬ 
bury,  in  1806.)  To  this  park  trees  of  a  large  size  w^ere  brought  by  adequate 
machinery,  from  a  considerable  distance,  without  regard  to  their  size  or  the 
season  of  the  year.  One  precaution  only  w^as  regarded,  to  bring  with  the 
tree  as  much  as  possible  of  the  surrounding  earth.  Similar  experiments 
have  succeeded  by  Mr.  Richardson,  at  Brierley,  near  Bradford,  Yorkshire, 
and  by  Mr.  Smith,  at  Stoke  Park,  Wilts.  A  herd  of  Buffaloes,  some 
Chinese  cattle,  and  pigs  rough  with  curled  hair,  have  been  frequently  in 
the  park.  The  principal  features  of  this  domain  are  the  lake,  surrounded 
by  a  semicircular  amphitheatre  of  wood,  and  terminated  by  the  Column,  seen 
from  a  seat  near  the  rustic  bridge;  adjoining  which  are  a  hawthorn  measuring 
6  ft.  in  girth,  at  5  ft.  from  the  ground;  the  sequestered  retreat  of  the  marhle 
Bath,  supplied  by  two  lion-head  fountains ;  the  smooth  lawn,  affording 
varied  glimpses  of  the  water,  animated  by  numerous  wild  fowl ;  a  Gothic 
seat  upon  an  eminence  well  disposed  to  display  the  objects  of  water,  lawns, 
interspersed  with  stately  timber-trees,  and,  at  the  end  of  the  vale,  the 
tower  of  Ruabon  church  ;  the  vista  of  the  waterfall,  beyond  which  appear 
forest  above  forest,  to  the  more  distant  mountains.  The  column  is  100  ft. 
high,  the  base  l6  ft.,  built  with  freestone.  Round  the  entablature  is  a  gallery, 
with  a  circular  iron  balustrade,  9  ft*  high,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  a 
handsome  urn  in  bronze.  The  plinth  is  wreathed  with  oak  leaves  descend¬ 
ing  from  the  beaks  of  eagles.  A  door  opens,  and  a  flight  of  spiral  steps  leads 
to  a  gallery  above,  whence  is  an  extensive  prospect.  This  monument, 
from  a  design  of  Wyatt,  is  the  pious  offering  of  maternal  affection  in 
memory  of  the  son  of  the  Sir  Watkin  Williams  Wynn,  whom  Dr.  King 
eulogised,  and  father  of  the  present  baronet.  On  the  lower  part  of  the  ceno¬ 
taph  is  the  following  concise  but  emphatic  inscription  : — 

FiLio  OPTIMO 
MATEREHEUI  SUPERSTES. 

This  column  is  highly  and  tastefully  finished,  rising  from  a  spacious  stone 
pavement,  surrounded  by  a  neat  lawn,  enclosed  by  majestic  oaks,  other  trees 
of  inferior  magnitude  and  appropriate  shrubs.  Though  not  seen  from  the 
house  it  is  visible  from  various  parts  of  the  surrounding  country.  Upon  a 
more  enlarged  scale  is  the  New  Drive,  5  m.  in  extent,  conducted  over  lofty 
elevations,  to  a  rotundo  or  Tower,  intended  to  commemorate  the  heroes 
belonging  to  tlie  Cambrian  Legion  of  ancient  Britons,  who  fell  in  their 
country’s  cause,  under  the  command  of  Sir  Watkin,  in  the  Irish  rebellion 
of  1798.  This  station  affords  a  magnificent  display  of  mountain,  wood, 
and  meanderings  of  the  deeply  imbedded  Dee.  Descend  to  the  charming 
Nant-y-Belan,  or  Dingle  of  the  Martin,  upon  a  level  with  the  river. 
The  captivating  scenery  of  this  spot  excited  the  admiration  of  the  tasteful 
Lyttleton.  It  certainly  contains  many  exquisite  beauties.  A  deep  ravine 
overhung  by  the  precipitous  sides  of  ragged  rocks,  contains  the  Dee,  fringed, 
for  a  space,  with  woods,  terminating  a  mad  career  in  a  profound  pool  of 


RUABON. 


551 


black  stagnant  waters.  From  a  rock  at  the  end  of  the  dingle  is  a  fine  view 
to  the  w.  of  of  the  ruins  of  Dinas  Bran^  seated  upon  its  conic  mountain  ; 
and  the  town  of  Llangollen  appears  to  lie  at  the  extremity  of  the  vale,  the 
scene  being  closed  by  the  distant  British  alps.  The  turnpike-road  runs  for 
about  2  m.  upon  the  bank  made  by  forming  Clawdd  Offa,  or  Offa’s  Dike. 
It  is  here  10  ft.  high,  and  broad  enough  to  admit  two  carriages,  for  a  long 
space  of  ground  called  Llwyh7'-y-Cath,  or  the  Cat’s  Path.  Near  this  road 
is  a  remarkable  tumulus,  besides  a  fine  view  of  the  Dee,  in  its  course 
through  a  delightful  valley.  After  having  viewed  the  obelisk,  mansion, 
bath,  &c.,  the  Dee  may  be  crossed,  on  the  bounds  of  the  park,  whence 
Chirk  Castle,  a  grand  and  venerable  pile,  is  shortly  attained.  Advanc¬ 
ing  S  m,  on  the  Wrexham  road,  appears  Erddig,  the  elegant  domain  of 
Simon  Yorke,  Esq,  Here  anciently  resided  a  descendant  of  Tudor  Trevor. 
Joshua  Edisbury,  Esq.  erected  the  present  structure.  The  estate,  under  a 
decree  of  chancery,  was  purchased  by  John  Meller,  Esq.,  who  bequeathed 
it  to  the  grandfather  of  the  present  owner.  This  mansion  has  recently  been 
enlarged  and  modernised,  under  the  skilful  hand  of  W yatt.  The  plan  of 
the  old  building,  however,  marred  the  new.  The  saloon  and  other  apart¬ 
ments  contain  some  valuable  paintings,  and  the  library  is  enriched  by  Welsh 
manuscripts,  including  the  Seabright  collection.  The  approach  from  the 
Ruabon  road,  is  rendered  strikingly  beautiful,  by  a  dense  wood,  overhanging 
a  banquetting  room,  disposed  upon  the  edge  of  a  murmuring  brook  ;  this, 
after  having  embellished  some  other  parts  of  the  domain,  skirts  a  spacious 
lawn  of  peculiar  beauty.  The  grounds  are  laid  out  with  considerable  taste, 
but  the  efforts  of  art  are  conspicuous.  A  portion  of  Watt’s  Dike  extends 
across  this  estate,  running  along  one  side  of  a  bank  between  the  two  valleys 
by  which  this  property  is  bounded.  Not  far  distant  are  fragments  of  a 
cemented  wall,  and  foundations  of  others,  the  remains  of  a  fort,  probably 
constructed  by  the  Saxons  under  the  direction  of  Offa,  to  defend  their  line 
of  demarcation.  This  work  consists  of  several  deep  entrenchments  sur¬ 
rounding  an  area  of  a  pentagonal  form,  apparently  the  site  of  a  bastion  ; 
and  at  the  verge  is  an  artificial  mount,  upon  which  probably  W'as  a  tower. 
Philip  Yorke,  Esq.  was  a  man  of  social  habits,  and  possessed  of  considerable 
talent.  His  History  of  the  Five  Royal  Tribes  of  Wales,”  is  a  work 
abounding  with  so  much  information  that  the  reader  cannot  help  wishing 
that  he  had  written  his  intended  Stemmata  or  Fifteen  Tribes.  His  Crude 
Ditties,”  printed  at  Wrexham,  in  4to,  do  him  less  honour.  A  terrible 
conflict  took  place  in  this  vicinity  about  the  year  ll6T,  between  the  English 
and  Welsh.  The  latter  were  commanded  by  Owain  Cyfeiliog,  prince  of 
Powys,  who  was  the  conqueror.  This  victory  produced  the  poem  called 
Hildas  Owain,  composed  by  the  hero  himself.  This,  in  the  original,  ranks 
with  the  best  Pindaric  ode  of  the  Grecian  school.  It  has  been  clothed  in 
an  English  dress  by  the  Rev.  Richard  Williams  of  Vron,  and  appears  in 
Pennant’s  Tours,  8vo,  vol.  iii.  p.  93. 

The  district  to  the  1.  of  the  road  from  Ruabon  to  Wrexham  abounds 
with  valuable  mines,  and  considerable  works  are  carried  on  at  Acre- 
vnir,  in  which  several  hundred  men  are  employed  by  the  British  Iron  Com¬ 
pany.  There  are  numerous  blast  furnaces  and  forges  in  other  parts  of 
the  parish,  for  the  manufacture  of  iron  ;  also  a  pottery  for  coarse  earthen¬ 
ware.  The  iron  ore  dug  in  the  adjacent  hills  is  exceedingly  rich,  gene¬ 
rating,  when  blended  wdth  a  portion  of  the  furnace  ore  from  Lancashire, 
an  iron  of  most  excellent  quality.  The  coal  is  procured  close  to  the  works 
from  pits  210  yards  in  depth.  Almost  every  thing  is  done  by  the  aid 
of  steam-engines  of  various  powers.  Bersham  iron  works,  2  m.  distant 

N  N  4 


553r 


RUTHIN. 


from  Wrexham_,  belonged  to  the  late  celebrated  enterprising  John  Wil¬ 
kinson,  Esq.^  better  known  as  the  father  of  the  iron  trade ;  but  the  pro¬ 
perty  was  after  his  death  vested  in  the  hands  of  trustees,  for  the  benefit 
of  his  children.  These  works  are  situated  at  Pont-y-Penca,  near  Ec- 
clusham,  consisting  of  forges,  slitting,  rolling,  and  stamping  mills,  &c.  with 
a  large  cannon  foundery.  The  various  processes  in  preparing  these  instru¬ 
ments  of  death  are  very  curious.  Besides  cannon  and  mortars,  these 
works  produce  wheels,  cogs,  bars,  pipes,  cylinders,  rollers,  columns, 
pistons,  &c.  &c.  Sheet  iron  is  made  and  manufactured  into  furnace 
boilers,  steam  caissons,  and  various  articles  which  were  formerly  made 
of  copper.  Wire  of  every  dimension  is  also  here  produced.  Mr.  Smith, 
amongst  many  striking  illustrations  of  character,  gives  the  following  anec¬ 
dote  of  Mr.  Wilkinson  :  —  ‘^‘^This  clever  and  ingenious  machinist  was  so  far 
back  as  17.Q9)  on  the  eve  of  that  important  discovery  which  is  effecting  a 
rapid  and  extraordinary  revolution  in  all  our  commercial  relations.  ^  I 
worked,’  said  Mr.  Wilkinson,  at  a  forge  in  the  north.  My  master  gave 
me  12^.  a  week.  I  was  content.  They  raised  me  to  146'.:  I  did  not  ask 
them  for  it.  They  went  on  to  16^. — 18^.:  I  never  asked  them  for  the 
advance.  They  gave  me  a  guinea  a  week.  I  said  to  myself,  if  I  am 
worth  a  guinea  a  week  to  you,  I  am  worth  more  to  myself.  I  left  them.* 
He  first  brought  into  action  the  steam  engine  blast,  at  his  works  near 
Wrexham.  ‘  I  grew  tired  of  my  leather  bellows,’  said  he,  in  his  old 
age,  to  a  young  friend,  and  I  w^as  determined  to  make  iron  ones.  Every¬ 
body  laughed  at  me  ;  but  I  did  it,  and  then  they  all  cried,  M^ho  could 
have  thought  it  }  ’  To  the  same  gentleman,  in  1799?  tie  said,  You  will 
live  to  see  waggons  drawn  hy  steam,  1  would  have  made  such  a  waggon 
for  myself  if  I  had  had  time.’” 

A  little  to  the  1.  after  passing  through  the  turnpike  to  Wrexham,  the 
traveller  may  visit  Caer-ddin,  called  Garthen,  seated  upon  the  summit  of  a 
hill,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of  Maelor  Gymraeg,  or  Bromfield, 
and  part  of  Maelor  Saesoneg  or  English  Maelor,  mostly  flat  and  wooded. 
This  Caer  includes  four  acres  of  ground,  protected  by  deep  ditches.  The 
inner  dike  is  made  of  loose  stones,  with  a  wall  of  vast  thickness  on  the 
top.  Within  the  area  are  many  vestiges  of  buildings.  It  lies  about  200 
yards  upon  the  outside  of  Offa’s  Dike  ;  upon  the  top  of  this  entrenchment 
the  turnpike-road  is  formed  for  a  considerable  way.  Watt’s  Dike  leads 
direct  to  Erddig. 


To  Wrexham,  Similes.  Pugh  ;  Bingley;  Skrine; 
Pennant. 

Chirk  Castle,  4i  miles.  Wyndham. 

To  and  from  Bangor  Iscoed,  by  way  of  Overton, 
20  miles.  Bingley. 


To  Oswestry,  9f  miles.  Gilpin. 
W'hitchurch,  18  miles. 
Llangollen,  7  miles. 
Denbigh,  28  miles. 


RUTHIN. 


From  Llanrhaiadyr,  4i  miles.  Pennant;  Bingley. 
Mold,  10  miles.  Bingley;  Gilpin;  Pugh. 
Denbigh,  8  miles.  Wyndham;  Pennant; 
Aikin  ;  Hutton  ;  Pugh. 


From  Bala,  22  miles.  Warner. 
Back  from  Denbigh.  Gilpin. 
St.  Asaph,  14  miles. 

Wrexham,  18  miles. 


RUTHIN,  Rhudd-ddin,  or  Rhuthyn,  a  borough  and  market  towm  like 
Denbigh  and  St.  Asaph,  is  situated  upon  the  summit  and  slope  of  a  con¬ 
siderable  hill,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  vale  of  the  Clwyd,  ivhich  runs 
through  the  place,  but  is  an  inconsiderable  stream,  serving  for  the  purpose 
of  turning  mills.  This  is  an  assize  town,  and  is  in  the  hundred  of 
Rhuddyn,  Denbighshire,  having  evidently  originated  with  the  Castle  called 


RUTHIN. 


553 


Rhyddin^  or  the  Red  Fortress^  from  the  colour  of  the  stone  with  which 
it  is  constructed.  Edward  I.  is  said  to  have  erected  the  present  building_, 
yet  the  Welsh  name  Castell-coch-yn-Gwernfor  seems  to  indicate  that 
there  was  a  stronghold  anterior  to  that  reign.  Camden^  however^  asserts 
that  both  the  castle  and  town  were  built  by  Roger  Grey.  Its  history  affords 
few  interesting  incidents.  During  a  fair  holden  at  Ruthin  in  the  year 
1400_,  Owain  Glyndwr  entered  it  with  a  small  army,  assailed  the  fortress 
without  success,  and  after  pillaging  the  inhabitants  and  burning  the  town, 
retreated  to  the  mountains.  From  the  family  of  the  Greys,  it  devolved  to 
Richard  Earl  of  Kent,  who  sold  it  to  Henry  VII.  It  was  granted  to 
Dudley  Earl  of  Warwick,  by  Queen  Elizabeth.  In  the  time  of  Charles  I. 
the  castle  was  held  for  the  king  till  the  year  1645-6  ;  but  after  sustaining 
a  siege  from  the  middle  of  February  to  the  middle  of  April,  it  was  given 
up  to  General  Mytton,  who  received  the  thanks  of  the  House  of  Parlia¬ 
ment.  Colonel  Mason  was  appointed  permanent  governor,  but  soon  after 
the  castle  was  ordered  to  be  dismantled.  Its  situation  was  not  upon  the 
summit,  but  upon  the  side  of  the  hill  fronting  the  vale  to  the  w.  Camden 
says  that  during  the  reign  of  Henry  VII.,  through  neglect,  it  became  roofless. 
The  dilapidations  seem  to  have  been  repaired,  for  the  same  author  subse¬ 
quently  represents  it  as  a  stately  and  beautiful  castle.’"  It  is  described 
by  honest  Churchyard  as  it  appeared  in  the  l6th  century  as  follows:  — 

“  This  castle  stands,  on  rocke  much  like  red  bricke  ; 

The  dykes  are  cut,  with  toole  through  stonie  cragge  ■ 

The  towers  are  hye,  the  walles  are  large  and  thicke, 

The  worke  it  selfe,  would  shake  a  subjects  bagge, 

If  he  were  bent,  to  buyld  the  like  agayne  : 

It  rests  on  mount,  and  looks  ore  wood  and  playne  ; 

It  had  great  store,  of  chambers  finely  wrought, 

That  tyme  alone,  to  great  decay  had  brought. 

It  shewes  within,  by  dubble  walles  and  waies, 

A  deep  device,  did  first  erect  the  same  : 

It  makes  our  worlde,  to  thinke  on  elder  daies, 

Because  the  worke,  was  formde  in  such  a  frame. 

One  tower  or  wall,  the  other  answers  right. 

As  though  at  call,  each  thing  should  please  the  sight ; 

The  rocke  wrought  round,  where  every  tower  doth  stand. 

Set  forth  full  fine,  by  head,  by  hart  and  hand,” 

The  poor  remains  of  this  once  proud  pile,  consist  of  a  few  fragments  of 
towers  and  fallen  walls,  reduced  nearly  to  the  foundations.  A  beautiful 
castellated  structure,  harmonising  tastefully  with  the  ancient  remains,  has 
been  recently  erected  within  the  ruins  of  the  old  castle,  commanding  rich 
and  extensive  prospects.  While  the  work  was  in  progress,  under  the  su¬ 
perintendence  of  the  Hon.  Frederick  West,  some  remains  of  the  e.  entrance 
into  the  ancient  castle-yard  were  discovered.  On  removing  some  rubbish 
to  the  depth  of  2  or  3  ft.,  the  workmen  came  to  the  head  of  a  staircase, 
composed  of  a  flight  of  14  steps  of  red  stone.  At  the  bottom  a  very  flne 
specimen  of  the  multiplied  acute  Gothic  arch  of  the  days  of  the  first  Edward 
appeared,  forming  a  series  of  six  declining  arches,  communicating  with  an 
apartment  leading  to  one  of  the  towers,  which  flanked  the  entrance.  The 
dimensions  of  the  room,  which  is  also  arched,  are  4  yards  in  length,  and 
about  7  ft.  wide,  leading  through  a  Gothic  doorway,  to  the  spiral  staircase 
of  the  tower.  The  niche  for  the  admission  of  light  to  the  ascent  is  in 
excellent  preservation,  and  the  steps,  18  in  number,  are  perfect.  Ruthin 
is  described  as  having  been  a  populous  place,  with  the  best  market  in  the 


554 


RUTHIN. 


vale.  It  is  at  present  a  considerable  town^  containing,  according  to  the 
return  under  the  population  act  of  1801,  1115  inhabitants;  in  1831  it 
amounted  to  3376.  Several  gentlemen’s  seats  adorn  the  suburbs.  It  has 
two  well  supplied  markets  in  the  week  —  on  Monday  for  corn,  and  Saturday 
for  provisions. 

It  is  one  of  the  contributary  boroughs  with  Denbigh,  Holt,  and  Wrex¬ 
ham,  in  returning  one  member  to  parliament.  This  is  a  polling  place  in 
the  election  of  knights  of  the  shire.  The  corporation  consists  of  2  aider- 
men,  l6  common  councilmen,  and  an  unlimited  number  of  burgesses. 
Besides  the  hundred  there  is  also  the  lordship  of  Ruthin,  a  manorial  right 
which  is  vested  in  the  family  at  Chirk  Castle,  who  appoint  a  steward  to  it. 
The  Church,  though  only  a  chapel  to  Llanrhydd,  is  a  spacious  structure, 
anciently  conventual,  and  belonging  to  the  religious  house  of  monks  deno¬ 
minated  Bons  Hommes.  It  was  changed  into  a  collegiate  chapter,  a.  n. 
1310,  by  John  de  Grey,  who  formed  an  establishment  of  7  regular  canons, 
endowing  it  with  valuable  lands  and  numerous  privileges.  The  apartments 
for  the  canons  were  connected  with  the  church  by  a  cloister,  of  which  a 
remaining  portion  has  been  converted  into  a  residence  for  the  Warden, 
now  the  venerable  Archdeacon  Newcomb,  author  of  Memoirs  of  Dr. 
Goodman,^’  and  of  the  histories  of  Denbigh  and  Ruthin.  The  roof  of  the 
church  is  admired  for  its  curious  workmanship,  consisting  of  small  squares 
with  various  sculpture,  bearing  the  workmen’s  names.  Near  the  w.  win¬ 
dow  of  the  N.  aisle,  which  was  once  the  nave,  the  squares  are  painted  in  imi¬ 
tation  of  those  which  are  carved.  The  painter’s  name  was  Davies,  and  differ¬ 
ence  is  very  rarely  discovered.  John  de  Grey,  the  founder,  was  probably 
buried  here,  but  there  is  nothing  commemorative  of  him.  The  barony  of  Grey 
de  Ruthin  is  at  present  enjoyed  by  Barbara,  daughter  of  H.  E.  Gould,  Esq. 
who  as  nineteenth  baron  assumed  the  name  and  arms  of  Yelverton,  and  who 
died  in  1810.  The  only  monument  worthy  of  notice  is  to  the  memory  of  Dr. 
Gabriel  Goodman  upon  which  his  likeness  is  elegantly  represented  by  a  mar¬ 
ble  bust.  He  was  a  native  of  the  place,  distinguished  for  various  learning,  but 
particularly  eminent  as  a  linguist.  Queen  Elizabeth  promoted  him  to  the 
deanery  of  Westminster,  and  he  was  appointed  to  assist  in  translating  the 
Scriptures.  The  first  epistle  to  the  Corinthians  is  said  to  have  been  wholly  his 
performance  :  he  was  also  a  chief  promoter  of  Bishop  Morgan’s  Welsh  trans¬ 
lation.  He  died  Dean  of  Westminster  after  40  years’  incumbency,  July  17. 
l601,aged  73.  He  supported  Camden  on  his  travels,  who,  through  the  dean’s 
interest,  was  made  under-master  of  Westminster  school.  He  founded  the 
free-school  here,  and  his  philanthropy  continues  to  live  in  Christ’s  Hospital 
for  the  aged  poor.  The  Town  Hall,  standing  near  the  market-place,  is  a 
substantial  building,  and  has  tolerable  apartments  for  holding  the  great 
sessions,  this  place  being  preferred  to  Denbigh  as  being  more  central.  The 
County  Hall  is  an  elegant  modern  erection,  fronted  with  white  stone,  and 
bearing  ample  testimony  to  the  good  taste  of  Mr.  Turner.  The  Free 
School  is  a  good  structure,  and  the  endowment  respectable.  From  this 
establishment  young  men  are  sometimes  admitted  into  orders  without 
having  graduated  at  any  university.  The  head-mastership  is  in  the  gift 
of  Jesus  College,  Oxford.  A  National  School  is  supported  by  voluntary  sub¬ 
scription.  The  County  Gaol  is  a  handsome  edifice,  designed  by  Mr.  Joseph 
Turner  of  Chester,  and  built  in  1775.  It  has  been  lately  much  extended. 
The  apartments  for  debtors  are  separated  from  the  felons  by  a  lofty  wall  ; 
the  yards  are  spacious,  and  supplied  with  baths.  Even  the  condemned 
cells  bear  marks  of  humane  attention,  being  upon  a  level  with  the  ground, 
dry,  airy,  and  light.  The  House  of  Correction  adjoins. 


RUTHIN. 


555 


Several  characters  of  eminence  were  natives  of  Ruthin^  among  whom 
may  be  mentioned  Edward  Thelwall,  tutor  to  Lord  Herbert  of  Cherbury 
Bishops  Goodman  and  Parry  ;  and  Sir  Eubule  Thelwal),  principal  and 
second  founder  of  Jesus  College,  Oxford. 

Inns:  The  White  Lion  is  a  large  inn  ;  the  Cross  Foxes  will  be  found 
comfortable. 

The  Vale  of  Clwyd,  which  is  entered  at  Ruthin,  has  been  deservedly 
celebrated  by  all  travellers.  It  may  be  chiefly  considered  as  a  rich  scene 
of  cultivation,  but  it  abounds  also  with  picturesque  beauty.  It  is  very  ex¬ 
tensive,  not  less  than  24  m.  in  length,  and  6,  *7,  and  sometimes  8  in  breadth. 
It  is  almost  every  where  screened  by  lofty  mountains,  which  are  com  ¬ 
monly  ploughed  at  the  base,  and  pastured  at  the  summit.  Within  these 
bold  limits  the  vale  forms  one  large  segment  of  a  circle,  varied  only  in 
different  parts  by  little  mountain  recesses,  which  break  the  regularity  of  the 
sweep.  The  area  of  this  grand  scene  is  in  some  parts  open  and  extended, 
affording  the  most  amusing  distances :  in  other  parts  it  is  full  of  little 
knolls,  and  hillocks,  and  thickly  planted  with  wood.  The  great  deficiency  it 
sustains  is  that  of  water.  Many  little  rivulets  find  their  way  through  it ; 
particularly  the  Clwyd,  whence  it  takes  its  name  ;  but  none  of  them  is 
equivalent  to  the  scene.  The  Clwyd  itself  is  but  a  diminutive  stream. 
At  one  end  indeed  the  vale  is  open  to  the  sea,  but  the  other  is  lost  in  moun¬ 
tains.  About  Ruthin  the  scene  is  woody,  and  continues  so  nearly  6  m.  fur¬ 
ther,  as  far  as  Denbigh.  The  view  here  becomes  more  extensive,  and 
opens  towards  St.  Asaph,  upon  a  wide  and  open  flat  called  Rhuddlan  Marshy 
from  a  castle  of  that  name,  which  formerly  guarded  its  confines.  The 
Vale  of  Clwyd  is  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  church  tower.  Towards 
the  end  it  appears  level  as  far  as  Rhyddlan,  distant  17  m.  The  mountains 
on  the  E.  are  very  high,  but  diminish  as  they  approach  the  sea.  Those 
on  the  w.  side  are  covered  with  wood,  but  the  level  of  the  plain  contains  the 
greatest  profusion  of  trees.  The  shallow  stream  which  names  the  vale, 
meanders  centrically  in  silence,  through  this  charming  expanse. 

One  m.  e.  of  Ruthin,  near  Llanrhydd  is  Bathafarn,  formerly  a  park 
belonging  to  the  Greys,  and  afterwards  of  the  Thelwalls.  The  house  stands 
at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  called  Moel-fenlli.  These  grounds  are  in  a  fine  state  of 
cultivation  and  well  wooded. 

Near  Ruthin  is  the  neat  little  village  of  Fynnon  St.  Dyfnog,  remark¬ 
able  for  a  well  said  to  posses  marvellous  properties  in  the  cure  of  the  rheu¬ 
matism.  Passing  through  the  churchyard  and  thence  by  an  alms-house, 
to  a  plantation  of  trees  with  a  broad  gravel  walk,  deeply  shaded,  the  foun¬ 
tain  is  observable,  enclosed  in  an  angular  shaped  wall,  forming  a  bath  of 
considerable  size.  A  subterraneous  passage  leads  thence  into  the  pleasure- 
grounds  belonging  to  the  seat  of  Major  Wylyn. 

A  rude  block  of  limestone,  called  Maen  Huail,  occurs  in  the  vicinity  of 
Ruthin.  Here  tradition  informs  us  Prince  Arthur  beheaded  his  rival 
Huail,  brother  to  Gilder  the  historian. 

To  Cerig-y-Drudion,  pass  over  a  large  common,  and  a  hill  called 
Colledfa.  Lord  Bagot  caused  this  common  to  be  divided  into  different 
allotments  for  cultivation.  On  the  1.  is  Pool  Park,  his  lordship’s  summer 
residence,  situated  in  a  pleasant  wooded  dell.  Some  chestnut  trees  here  are 
remarkably  large.  Towards  Clogcainog  the  scenery  improves,  and  some 
glimpses  may  be  caughtof  Moel  Enlly,  Moel-y-Famma,  &c.  Clogcainog  l^m. 
is  a  poor  village  church  had  once  a  finely  painted  window.  A  cottage  belong¬ 
ing  to  Lord  Bagot  is  placed  in  a  beautiful  sylvan  valley.  Upon  the  moun¬ 
tain  near  a  farm  called  Maes-y-Tyddin  Uchav,  are  two  stones  mentioned  by 


RUTHIN. 


556 

Camden,  one  of  which  is  inscribed  “Amillin  Tovisatoc.”  An  uninterest¬ 
ing  road  of  7  ni.  conducts  us  to  Llanvihangel.  A  handsome  arch  of  a  large 
span  here  crosses  the  Alwen.  The  church  is  remarkably  narrow.  Cerig- 
y-Drudion,  2  m. 

On  the  road  to  Caerwys,  at  the  distance  of  1  m.  on  the  r.  is  a  road  to 
Plds  Ward,  close  to  the  river  Clwyd ;  I  m.  on  thel.  to  Llanrhaiadyr,  3  m.; 
leave  immediately  Rhyd-y-cul-gwyn  ;  proceeding  |  m.  on  the  r.  is  Gland- 
wyd  :  a  little  across  the  Clwyd  lies  Llajiychen  ;  continue  to  the  1.  of  the  Clwyd 
to  Llanychen  1  m.,  turn  to  the  r.  over  the  Clwyd  to  Careg  Llwydion,  the 
residence  of  Mr.  Edwards,  who  some  years  hack,  erected  thirteen  cottages 
within  1  m.  of  his  residence.  They  have  upper  stories  for  bed-rooms;  and 
a  skilling  at  each  end  one  for  a  cow-house,  the  other  for  a  milk-room.  They 
are  slated,  whitewashed,  and  many  of  them  ornamented  with  sham  windows 
and  balustrades.  One  cottage  has  six  acres  of  land  annexed  to  it,  which 
maintains  two  cows,  a  calf  and  a  pig  ;  besides  some  in  tillage ;  rent  97  5^.  A 
second  has  four  acres,  maintaining  two  cows,  and  a  pony  ;  rent  87  These 
were  the  rents  in  1799*  A  third  with  two  acres,  keeping  one  cow,  and  one 
pony.  It  should  be  remembered  that  a  cottager’s  stock  should  be  a  milch 
cow,  a  calf  in  rearing,  and  a  pig;  ponies  should  be  dispensed  with,  because 
people  in  health  can  bear  walking.  The  Welsh,  however,  are  particularly  par¬ 
tial  to  easy  sitting  on  horseback;  they  had  much  rather  be  carried  than  carry. 
It  is  an  indulgence  which  the  women  seem  to  enjoy  by  custom.  You  con¬ 
tinually  meet  on  the  road  ill  clad  women,  mounted  upon  good  ponies,  but 
rarely  any  travelling  on  foot.  To  Llandyrnogy  1  m.  from  this  place,  cross 
to  the  r.  m.  to  Llangwyfen^  and  thence  by  a  mountainous  road  to  Caer¬ 
wys,  4  m.  or  continue  from  IJandyrnog,  by  Penrhyn,  1  m.  on  1.  Ashpool 
on  r.  1  m.  to  Gynas,  near  Bodfari,  1  J  m.  where  you  fall  into  the  road  from 
Denbigh  to  Caerwys.  Hwlkin  and  the  Grove,  on  the  r. 

On  the  road  to  Mold,  at  the  distance  of  1  m.  from  Ruthin,  the  traveller 
ascends  Bwlch  Pen  Barras,  being  part  of  a  vast  chain  of  mountains  which 
terminate  the  beautiful  and  extended  vale  of  Clwyd. 

The  road  to  Denbigh  skirts  the  w.  side  of  the  vale,  which  the  termi¬ 
nation  of  the  5th  m.  branches  into  two.  That  to  the  r.  is  the  new,  that 
on  the  1.  the  old  road.  From  the  latter  the  town  of  Denbigh  and  its  castle, 
situate  on  the  lofty  summit  of  an  inclined  plane,  makes  a  grand  appearance. 
The  hill  upon  which  it  stands  is  a  limestone  rock,  the  more  remarkable 
on  account  of  being  the  only  one  in  the  vale.  This  fortress  being  much 
broken,  no  good  view  can  be  obtained  of  the  whole ;  yet  even  taken  sepa¬ 
rately  the  parts  are  beautiful,  particularly  the  gate  of  the  inner  castle,  which 
is  a  noble  fragment.  The  best  views  of  this  ruin  are  from  the  parks. 
The  descent  of  the  hills  towards  Wrexham  overlooks  the  extensive  level  of 
the  vale  royal  of  Chester.  At  the  foot  OfFa’s  Dike  is  very  visible  upon  each 
side  of  the  road.  The  artist,  says  Mr.  Pugh,  should  view  Cyffylliog,  on  the 
way  to  Denbigh ;  within  1  m.  of  which  village,  at  Pontuchel,  the  scenery 
is  uncommonly  grand.  He  will  find  some  interesting  vistas  by  following 
the  rocky  bed  of  the  river  from  the  mill  to  the  public  road.  I  would  advise 
him  to  mount  the  hills,  and  keeping  the  vale  of  Clwyd  in  sight,  he  will  pass 
over  some  fine  dingles  to  Denbigh.” 

To  Corwen,  Mr.  Pennant  visited  the  neat  little  mother  church  of  Llan- 
rhydd.  In  it  is  the  monument  of  John  Thelwall,  Esq.,  of  Bathafarn,  and 
his  wife,  kneeling  at  an  altar ;  with  their  sons  and  daughters.  A  bust  of 
St.  Ambrose  is  admirably  sculptured.  The  vale  now  becoms  narrow,  and 
almost  closes  with  the  parish  of  Llanfair.  If  the  extremity  be  placed  at 
Pont  Newydd,  there  cannot  be  a  more  beautiful  finish,  where  the  bridge, 


RUTHIN. 


557 


near  the  junction  of  the  Clwyd  and  the  Hespin,  and  a  lofty  hill  clothed  with 
hanging  woods^  terminate  the  view.  Went  over  part  of  the  Coed  Mar  chan, 
a  large  naked  common,  noted  for  a  quarry  of  coarse  red  and  white  marble. 
Descended  into  the  narrow  vale  of  Nant-clwyd;  and  for  some  time  rode  over 
dreary  commons.  Upon  one  is  a  small  encampment,  with  a  single  fosse, 
called  Caer  Senial.  Near  this  place  entered  Merionethshire,  and  visited 
Caer  Drewyn,  another  post,  in  full  view  of  the  beautiful  vales  of  Glyndwr- 
dwy  and  Edeirnion,  watered  by  the  Dee.  It  lies  upon  the  steep  acclivity  of 
a  hill;  is  of  a  circular  form,  and  about  m.  in  circumference.  The  de¬ 
fence  consisted  of  a  single  wall,  mostly  in  ruins.  Not  far  hence,  near  Gwy- 
ddelwern,  is  a  place  called  Saith  Maachog.  This  post,  or  fastness,  of  Caer 
Drewyn  is  but  one  of  the  chain  which  begins  at  Diserth,  and  is  continued 
along  the  Clwydian  Hills  into  the  mountains  of  Yale.  These  were  tempo¬ 
rary  retreats  of  the  inhabitants  in  time  of  war,  or  sudden  invasions.  De¬ 
scended  and  found  the  usual  ford  of  the  Dee  to  Corwen  impassable,  gained 
again  the  Ruthin  road,  upon  a  common  marked  with  Tumuli.  Passed  near 
the  house  of  Ricg,  memorable  as  the  spot  where  Gryffydd  ap  Cynan,  king 
of  Wales,  soon  after  his  victory  at  Carno,  in  1077^  was  treacherously  sur¬ 
prised.  In  after  times  this  place  became  the  property  of  Owain  Brogyntyn, 
natural  son  of  Madog  ap  Meredydd,  a  prince  of  Powys.  Crossed  the  Dee, 
upon  a  very  handsome  bridge  of  six  arches. 

To  St.  Asaph,  the  mountains  which  form  the  vale  retire  into  recesses. 
Their  tops  are  commonly  smooth,  their  bases  woody,  but  their  shapes  and 
lines  are  greatly  varied,  though  the  vale  itself  makes  only  one  large  curve. 
Approaching  the  end  of  the  vale,  after  passing  through  a  space  of  more  than 
20  m.,  the  mountains  draw  nearer,  till  they  insensibly  close ;  the  whole 
finishing  in  a  noble  bay  of  cultivation.  Ascending  the  higher  grounds,  a 
grand  retrospect  may  be  taken.  Its  bosom,  interspersed  with  lawns,  cot¬ 
tages,  and  groves ;  the  hills  on  each  side  retiring  one  after  another ;  till  at 
St.  Asaph  the  whole  landscape  blends  with  the  sea.  In  a  clear  day  the 
castle  of  Denbigh,  and  the  tower  of  St.  Asaph,  enrich  the  view. 

To  Llangollen,  pass  Plds  Newydd,  D.  Shuckforth,  Esq.;  and  Garth 
Gynnan,  Colonel  Richard  Kenrick ;  on  the  r.  3  m.  7  fur.  Craigfechan 
1  j  m  ,  Rhos,  2  m.,  Llandegle,  an  interesting  village,  possessing  mineral 
waters,  ]  m.  1  fur.  Near  this  place  is  an  old  mansion,  the  property  of  Sir 
Thomas  Mostyn,  Bart.,  called  Bodidris,  from  Idris,  son  of  Llywelyn  Aur- 
dorchog,  then  lord  of  Yale.  This  house  is  situated  in  two  counties,  i.  e.  Den¬ 
bigh  and  Flint.  It  contains  a  canopied  state-bed,  called  Gwely  Cant  Punt 
(hundred  pounds  bed),  presented  by  Queen  Elizabeth  to  the  ancient  family 
of  Lloyd,  from  which  Sir  Thomas  was  maternally  descended.  The  furni¬ 
ture  and  a  cradle  are  of  the  same  age.  Tafarn  Dowyrch,  1  ]  m.  ;  Pentre 
Bwlch  Turnpike,  1  m.  through  Bwlch-y-Rhiw  Felin,  1  m.,  where,  in  the 
6th  century,  Gwell  and  Sawyl,  two  sons  of  the  bard  and  prince,  Llywarch 
Hen,  lost  their  lives  in  a  battle  fought  to  expel  the  Saxons  and  Irish  out  of 
this  part  of  the  country.  On  r.  Crib-yn-oernant ;  leave  on  1.  Tan-y- 
Bwlch  and  Moel  Eglwys  Eagle  {^Craig  Eglwyseg  lies  2  m.  to  the  1.)  Tyn-y- 
pystl,  l|^m.  and  Vron  Favor,  ^  m.  on  1.  From  a  summit  upon  this  road, 
is  a  fine  view  of  Castell  Dinas  Bran.  Pass  the  Pillar  of  Eliseg,  in  a  mea¬ 
dow  on  1.  Vale  Crucis  Abbey,  1  m.  Pentre  Felin,  1  m.  1  fur.  (on  1.  Din- 
bren  Hall,  Rev.  Edward  Roberts).  Llangollen,  1  m.  1  fur. 

While  at  Ruthin,  a  highly  interesting  excursion  may  be  undertaken, 
i^.scend  the  hills  on  the  road  to  Chester,  and  passing  the  Loggerheads,  turn 
to  the  r.  across  the  stratified  rocks  of  Llanferres.  If  the  tourist  has  not 
visited  Moel-y-Famma,  it  would  be  advisable  to  ascend  that  mountain  in 


558 


RUTHIN. 


this  excursion.  In  the  church  at  Llanarmon  are  some  singularly  curious 
monuments.  One  upon  the  outside  is  commemorative  of  the  celebrated 
Garmon  or  Germanus^  bishop  of  Auxerre^  who  contributed  with  St.  Lupus^ 
to  defeat  the  Saxons  and  Picts^  near  Mold.  In  the  church  is  the  tomb  of 
the  grandson  of  Unyr  ab  Moriddig,  ah  Sandde  Hardd^  wdth  his  figure  re¬ 
cumbent.  Near  this  is  a  very  rich  gypsum  monument,  most  profusely 
ornamented  with  coats  of  arms_,  to  the  memory  of  Efan  Llwyd  of  Bod 
Idris,  Esq.  a  captain  in  the  service  of  Charles  I.  He  died  in  Anglesea, 
April  7-  1637,  and  his  remains  were  deposited  here  with  those  of  his 
ancestors.  Several  urns  have  been  found  in  this  neighbourhood  which 
abounds  with  tumuli.  The  northern  nations,  as  well  as  the  Druids,  were  per¬ 
suaded  that  whatever  mechanical  implements  were  used  by  the  deceased 
during  his  life,  would  be  wanted  in  the  next.  Such  effects  were  therefore 
carefully  deposited  with  their  bodies.  Hence  many  singular  articles  of  un¬ 
known  use,  have  been  found  in  these  tumuli.  Near  the  village  is  a  syca¬ 
more  with  foliage  of  a  beautiful  bright  gold  colour.  From  this  place  the 
walk  directly  over  the  hills  to  Ruthin  is  uncommonly  pleasing  ;  the  various 
objects  in  the  vale  are  highly  interesting.  From  the  summit  we  survey  an 
immensity  of  mountain  and  of  wood,  till  the  eye  reaches  the  unrivalled 
Vale  of  Clwyd.  On  quitting  the  hill,  the  footpath  leads  us  to  the  edge  of 
an  immense  abrupt  inclined  plane  of  turf.  Still  descending  along  the  con¬ 
cave  side  of  this  hollow,  through  a  small  farm-yard,  we  approach  a  sylvan 
scene,  the  most  retired  and  tranquil  that  can  be  conceived,  where  peace 
appears  to  reign,  and  where  luxury  has  no  fascinations.  At  the  lower  ex¬ 
tremity  of  a  beautiful  la^n  adjoining  the  farm-yard,  a  railed  fence  and  gate 
lead  to  a  picturesque  moss-covered  cottage.  A  few  yards  further,  occurs 
Plas-y-Nant,  surrounded  by  enchanting  beauties.  This  little  Elysium 
owes  its  existence  to  Thelwall  Price,  of  Bathafarn  Park,  Esq.  who  formed  it 
about  the  year  1763,  when  the  estate  came  into  the  possession  of  the  late 
Rev.  Doctor  Carter  Thelwall,  of  Redburn,  Lincolnshire.  Then  it  devolved 
to  Lord  William  Beauclerk  on  his  marriage  with  Miss  Carter,  the  only 
daughter  and  heiress  of  the  Doctor.  She  followed  the  admirable  example  of 
her  good  father  and  mother,  but  died  a  few  years  after  her  marriage.  The 
estate  became  afterwards  the  property  of  the  Rev.  Butler  Clough,  by  purchase.. 

Plds  Llanrhydd,  a  neat  residence  with  beautiful  gardens  and  pleasure 
grounds.  The  little  church  contains  a  curious  old  mural  monument  to  John 
Thelwall  oi  Bathafern,  and  his  wife  kneeling  before  an  altar.  Behind  are  ten 
sons  and  four  daughters,  also  kneeling.  Re-enter  Ruthin  along  a  narrow 
sandy  entrance. 

Mobile  at  Ruthin,  visit  Craig  Eyarth,  distant  2  m.  following  the  river. 
Mr.  Pugh  says,  Though  the  pictures  are  not  very  numerous,  yet  they  are 
good.  The  artist  should  advance  as  far  as  the  mill.  The  wood  above  the 
river  may  afford  him  some  amusement,  but  when  he  is  inclined  to  return  to 
Ruthin,  and  wishes  to  vary  the  prospects,  it  will  be  advisable  for  him  to 
direct  his  course  towards  the  road,  and  turn  up  through  the  wood  called 
Coed-y-Gawen  to  the  top  of  Coed  Marchan,  a  barren  rocky  mountain, 
whence  there  is  a  delightful  view  of  the  vale.” 


To  St.  Asaph,  14 miles.  Gil[)in, 

Cerrig-y-Drudion,  13  miles.  Pugh. 
Llangollen,  15  miles.  Bingley;  Pugh. 
Llanrhaiadyr,  4|  miles.  Pugh. 


To  Mold,  10  miles.  Hutton. 

Denbigh,  8  miles.  Warner;  Gilpin. 
Wrexham,  18  miles.  Wyndham. 
Corwen,  12  miles.  Pennant  ;  Aikin. 


559 


SNOWDONIA. 

AN  EXCURSION  IN  THE  VICINITY  OF  SNOWDON, 

By  the  Rev.  J.  Evans. 

We  were  in  the  midst  of  Snowdonia,  a  range  of  mountains  from  Conwy 
to  the  sea  at  Aberdaron,  in  a  direction  nearly  from  n.  e.  to  n.  w.  ;  and,  un¬ 
like  other  mountains,  they  are  pile  upon  pile,  or  groups  of  cliffs  as  they 
gradually  ascend  from  each  extremity  to  the  centre.  Snowdon,  the  common 
escarpment,  or  declivity,  fronts  the  Menai,  aird  ranges  in  a  parallel  line 
with  it.  The  escarpment  of  particular  mountains  generally  depends  on  the 
inclination  of  the  strata.  The  principal  are  Carnedd  Dafydd,  Carnedd 
Llywelyn,  Trefaen,  Moel  Siahod,  the  two  Glyders,  the  two  Llyders,  Moel 
Llyfni,  and  Moel-mynydd-nant ;  all  emulous  to  support  their  superior  and 
father  Snowdon  ;  yet  his  proud  peaks  of  Crib-y-pistyll,  and  Y-W yddfa, 
appear  scarcely  to  outrival  some  of  the  summits  which  surround  them. 
Carnedd  Llywelyn  ranges  next,  and  Moel- Siahod,  the  third  iia  eminence  to 
Snowdon.  The  rocks  which  compose  the  higher  part  of  the  chain  are  prin¬ 
cipally  porphyry,  granite,  and  granitel  of  Kirwan  ;  the  secondary  rocks  are 
chiefly  horneblende,  schiller-spar,  toad- stone,  rowley-rag,  whinstone, 
schistose  mica,  schistose  clay,  mixtures  of  quartz,  felspar  and  mica,  with 
argillaceous  schistus  in  all  its  varieties.  On  the  w.  side  are  many  basaltic 
columns,  incumbent  upon  a  bed  of  hornstone,  or  chertz ;  also  large  coarse 
crystals,  cubic  pyrites,  and  various  mineral  bodies,  are  frequently  found  in 
the  fissures.  In  the  poem  of  ‘Caernarvon  Bay,”  Mr.  Lloyd  says,  that  ‘‘  the 
uncommon  Snowdonia  (so  denominated,  like  the  Armenian  Niphates,  and 
the  Tartarian  Imaus,  from  its  snowy  summits)  consists  of  such  a  variety  of 
mineral  substances,  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  give  them  a  distinctive 
character,  as  they  begin  so  high  as  the  calcareous,  and  descend  so  low  in  the 
system  as  the  softest  argile.  Llanberis  mine  produces  a  remarkable  kind 
of  quartz,  being  of  a  bright  ruby.  Snowdon  is  considered  by  geologists  to 
he  a  type  of  the  clay  slate  and  Grauwacke  slate  system.  The  rocks  of 
which  this  mountain  is  composed  consist  of  variously  coloured  and 
indurated  slate,  coarse  quartzose  aggregates,  flinty  slates,  and  various 
metamorphic  rocks,  evidently  stratified.  On  the  summit  Mr.  Phillips  found 
zoophyta,  terehratula,  leptaena,  and.  spirifera,  like  those  at  Tintagel  in 
Cornwall.  The  intelligent  geologist  will  of  course,  be  highly  delighted 
by  a  ramble  over  these  romantic  hills  ;  hut  however  imperative  their 
charms  may  be,  it  is  hoped  he  will  not  overlook  those  of  the  less  aspiring 
but  not  less  deserving  Anglesea.  The  amazing  diversity  of  substances 
which  that  British  wonder  and  king  of  mines  called  Parys  Mountain 
produces,  will  highly  gratify  his  mind  :  but  let  not  his  thirst  for  know¬ 
ledge  be  therewith  satiated,  for  every  mile  along  the  coast  or  through 
the  interior  of  this  extraordinary  island  will  amply  reward  his  labour 
by  an  almost  infinite  variety  of  specimens.”  In  the  schistose  rocks  are  seve¬ 
ral  slate  quarries  ;  very  considerable  ones  near  Dolbadarn;  some  in  Llandei- 
niolen  ;  some  in  Llanberis ;  a  few  in  Llan  Michael ;  and  very  large  ones  at 
Cilgwyr  ;  the  products  of  all  which  are  brought  to  Caernarvon,  and  thence 
shipped.  Those  of  Mr.  Pennant  are  at  Dolawen  ;  and  there  is  a  quarry  of 
the  Novaculite  of  Kirwan,  varieties  of  2d  and  3d  of  that  species,  near  Cwm 
Idwal,  where  great  quantities  of  hones  are  cut,  and  annually  sent  to  London, 


560 


SNOWDONIA. 


and  Dublin.  Leaving  the  two  Llyders^  which  form  the  e.  boundary  of  Nant 
PeriS;  the  road  lies  through  a  dingle^  called  Caunant-yr-^Esgar  up  a  con¬ 
siderable  ascent  of  loose  stones_,  which  render  the  footing  difficult  ;  yet  this 
is  the  easiest  and  most  eligible  pass  to  the  Sons  of  Snowdon.”  Here  is  the 
small  lake  of  Llyn-y-Cwm,  famous^  according  to  Giraldus^  for  trout,  perch, 
and  eel,  all  of  which,  according  to  his  statement,  were  monocular  ;  at  present 
there  are  no  fish  in  the  lake,  probably  owing  to  a  communication  with  some 
mineral  strata  being  opened  by  an  earthquake  about  the  year  1764,  which 
happened  during  a  violent  thunder-storm.  This  is  certain,  that  arsenic  and 
cupreous  particles  are  abundantly  diffused  in  its  waters.  Here  are  Subularia 
aquatica,  Isoetes  lacustris.  Lobelia  dortmanna ;  and  at  a  little  distance  the 
Ilubus  saxatilis,  Juncus  triglumis,  Hieracium  alpinum,  Solidago  virgaurea 
/3,  and  Piantago  maritima.  Passing  by  Rhiw,  the  celebrated  Glyder  Favor 
is  presented.  Here  once  grew  Woodsia  hyperborea,  supposed  to  be  now 
extinct,  in  this  place.  The  prospect  is  singularly  fine  from  the  summit  of 
the  Glyder :  Snowdon,  with  his  biforked  head,  is  seen  thence  to  advantage. 
The  varied  vales  of  Nant  Peris  and  Nant  Francon,  the  Meiiai,  and  the 
island  of  Anglesea  are  all  in  full  view.  Upon  a  small  plain  on  its  summit, 
huge  fragments  of  stone,  in  grotesque  shapes,  lie  in  all  directions ;  some  of 
them  of  many  tons  weight.  They  are  weather  beaten,  and  by  time  become 
cellular,  and  of  a  grey  colour.  Part  of  this  mountain  the  people  call  Carnedd- 
y-Gwynt,  “  the  Residence  of  tempests.”  The  vicinity  of  the  Glyder,  between 
Llyn-y-Cwm  and  Llyn  Idwal,  abounds  with  a  variety  of  rare  and  curious 
plants  ;  on  this  account  frequently  styled  the  Botanic  Garden  of  Snowdon. 
Amidst  a  numerous  assemblage,  the  following  grow  upon  Hysfa  Bengham 
and  TrygyfylcM  rocks  :  Geum  rivale,  Juniperus  communis  (var.  /3.),  Solidago 
virgaurea,  Thalictrum  minus,  T.  alpinum,  Arenaria  verna  /3.  Rhodiola  rosea, 
in  great  plenty.  Scolopendrium  vulgare,  Statice  armeria,  Sedum  rupestre, 
Sphragnium  alpinum,  Cistopteris  dentata.  Lichen  crassus,  Swertia  perennis, 
Thlaspi  hirtum,  Myrica  gale,  Anthericum  serotinum,  Cerastium  alpinum, 
Draba  incana,  and  Veronica  hybrida.  Another  part  of  this  mountain  forms 
a  dreadful  precipice,  named  Clogvoyn-du-ymhell-y-Glyder,  awfully  im¬ 
pending  its  dark  crags  over  the  baleful  waters  of  Llyn  Idwal,  the  Avernus 
of  the  Britons  !  The  shepherds  believe  it  to  be  the  haunt  of  demons.  A 
little  farther  on  the  1.  is  a  horrid  fissure  in  the  rock,  called  Twll~du,  or  the 
Black  Cleft.  It  is  an  open  gap  in  a  huge  dark  precipice  ;  in  depth  about 
.^00  ft.  and  6  wide,  extending  in  length  a  considerable  way.  Through  its 
bottom  rush  violently  the  waters  of  Llyn-y-cwnn,  of  which  there  is  a  striking 
delineation  in  G.  Nicholson’s  Eight  Views  in  the  County  of  Caernarvon,” 
Dickinson,  B  jnd  Street.  On  the  rocks  appear  the  Saxifraga  nivalis,  the  rare 
Anthericum  serotinum,  Lichen  islandicus,  L.  tartarius,  L.  omphaloides. 
Any  fisherman,  possessing  even  the  most  ordinary  skill,  will  find  sport  to 
satiety  on  one  or  other  of  these  lakes,  or  streams  flowing  out  of  them. 
Angle  in  the  pool  at  the  bottom  of  the  fall. 

The  two  Glyders  are  connected  by  a  long  narrow  strip  of  land,  called 
Y-waen-oer ,  or  the  Cold  Mountain  Flat.  On  one  side,  in  a  deep  hollow, 
is  Llyn-y-Boch  Llwyd,  and  on  the  other  at  the  foot  of  the  Trifaen,  Llyn 
Ogwen.  The  Trifaen  is  a  conical  hill  of  singular  appearance,  rising  from 
the  rugged  and  uncouth  stones  which  lie  upon  its  sides.  It  introduces  you  to 
the  Glijder-bach,  out  of  which  it  is  supposed  by  some  to  have  been  origin¬ 
ally  formed.  The  area  of  the  summit  of  the  little  Glyder  is  covered  with 
columnar  ipasses,  some  confusedly  piled  together,  others  flat,  and  others 
erect,  stones  lying  horizontally  upon  them.  One  stone,  about  25  ft.  long, 
and  15  wide,  is  poised  upon  a  large  upright  one,  serving  as  a  fulcrum,  so 


SNOWDONIA. 


561 


that  a  small  weight  at  the  extremity  will  move  the  opposite  end.  Some  upon 
the  summit  are  equal  to  those  of  Stonehenge.  How  these  came  here^  and 
from  what  cause,  is  a  question  which  involves  difficulty.  [See  Capel 
CuRiG.]  The  side  of  this  mountain,  and  Moel  Siabod  opposite,  form 
the  long  narrow  vale  of  Dyffryn  Mymhr,  in  which  are  the  twa  small  lakes 
called  Llyniau  Mymhr.  These  occupy  the  entrance  of  the  vale,  at  the  extre¬ 
mity  of  which  stands  the  small  village  and  Church  of  Capel  Curig. 
Winding  round  the  base  of  the  lofty  Siabod^  to  the  s.  the  fine  lake  of  Llyn- 
y-Gwynant  stretches  along  the  vale,  singularly  environed  with  thick  woods, 
exhibiting  the  hoary  spray  of  its  numerous  waterfalls,  which  rush  down 
the  rocks  to  great  advantage.  This  lake  is  about  ^  m.  in  length,  nearly 
filling  the  valley.  Adjoining  this  water  are  the  ruins  of  a  small  chapel, 
erected  and  endowed  by  John  Williams,  goldsmith,  of  London.  Born  in  this 
retirement,  this  person  went  in  early  life  to  the  metropolis  to  try  his  fortune, 
accumulated  a  considerable  property,  and  retired  to  his  native  place  to  pass 
the  remainder  of  his  days.  A  broad  stream  connects  this  with  Llyn-y- 
Dinas,  of  equal  extent,  still  confined  by  mountain  barriers,  with  a  narrow 
strip  of  grass  land  on  one  side.  This  is  the  much  admired  and  varied 
JVant  Gwynant.  In  this  vale  is  Plas  Gwynant,  Daniel  Vawdrey,  Esq. 
The  vast  mountains  which  surround  it,  its  transparent  lakes,  the  numerous 
streams  which  water  verdant  meads,  the  wild  Afo7i-glds-Uyn  tumbling  down 
the  side  of  Snowdon  from  the  lofty  Fynnon-lds,  its  picturesque  fall,  and  the 
pendant  diversified  woods,  combine  to  entitle  it  to  the  appellation  Resi¬ 
dence  of  Beauty f  Near  the  upper  part  of  the  vale  are  two  immense 
fragments  of  rock,  one  of  which  is  in  shape  like  the  gable  of  a  large  house. 
In  this  neighbourhood  rises  the  remarkable  elevation  of  Dinas  Emrys,  or 
Merddin  Emrys,  clothed  on  all  sides  with  wood,  which  makes  a  distin¬ 
guished  figure  in  British  story.  The  sides  are  very  steep,  and  two  large 
ramparts  of  stone  are  still  visible.  Here  hapless  Vortigern  is  said  to  have 
secured  himself  after  the  disasters  which  followed  his  impolitic  treaty. 
Near  this  place  is  Cell-y-Dewiniaid,  the  Cell  of  the  Diviners.”  In 
Drayton’s  Poly-olbion,  song  10,  and  in  Seldon’s  Notes,  may  be  found  an 
account  of  Merddin  Emrys.  Matthew  of  Westminster  has  given  a  long  detail 
in  the  life  of  Vortigern,  and  a  description  of  Merlin’s  prophecies.  Those  in 
prose  were  translated  into  Latin  by  Geoffry  of  Monmouth  ;  and  an  English 
edition,  4to,  was  published  in  London,  l641.  Merddin  appears  to  have 
been  an  able  mathematician,  astronomer,  and  poet,  qualifications  sufficient  to 
obtain  in  days  of  general  ignorance,  the  name  of  magician.  He  probably 
was  bard  and  councillor  to  Vortigern,  as  he  was  subsequently  to  Ambrosius, 
who  honoured  him  with  the  distinction  of  his  own  name.  Near  the  walls 
of  a  farm-house  in  this  vale  grows  the  Fumaria  claviculata.  I  have 
now,”  continues  Mr.  Evans,  traversed  one  of  the  most  wonderful  parts, 
and  most  worthy  of  observation,  in  the  three  kingdoms,  which,  in  point  of 
romantic  scenery  and  variety  of  productions,  is  not  perhaps  to  be  equalled 
by  the  boasted  wonders  of  the  Rhetian  alps.  The  views  are  grand,  pictu¬ 
resque,  and  pleasing,  exhibiting  a  rich  variety,  both  of  the  sublime  and 
beautiful.  Here  is  nothing  so  diminutive  in  the  scale  as  art;  but  pure 
simple  nature,  wildly  and  capriciously  sporting,  in  the  formation  of  her 
‘  gigantic  productions,  grotesque  rocks,  towering  hills,  and  extensive  lakes, 
agreeably  interspersed  and  lying  in  their  bosoms  ;  whence  the  most  limpid 
brooks  and  romantic  streams  roll  their  waters  down  the  sides  of  mountains, 
meander  in  pleasing  murmurs  through  the  vales,  or  fall  in  beautiful  cascades 
over  rocky  weirs.  The  manners  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  alpine  tract  par¬ 
take  of  the  nature  of  the  country.  They  .may  be  rude,  but  (hey  are 

0  0 


562 


ST.  ASAPH. 


generous  :  the  severity  of  their  sky  renders  them  hardy;  while  the  pastoral 
life  mingles  a  degree  of  softness  in  their  character.  These  alpine  Britons, 
who  have  seen  no  better  houses  than  their  own  self-built  huts,  no  other 
country  besides  their  native  rocks,  and  no  other  sky  but  their  own  at¬ 
mosphere,  darkened  by  clouds  and  deluged  by  storms,  conceive  the  whole 
world  to  be  in  like  manner  formed  of  the  same  rough  materials.  The 
heavens  do  not,  however,  here,  always  put  on  those  unfriendly  appear  ¬ 
ances.  The  tempest  does  not  always  rage,  nor  the  forked  lightnings  con¬ 
tinually  strike  the  mountain’s  brow.  The  storms  subside,  the  sky  becomes 
serene,  and  the  cheering  sun  again  exhilarates  the  dreary  scenes  with  his 
enlivening  beams.  Such  are  the  Cambrian’s  head,  and  such  his  heart : 
kindness  succeeds  to  anger,  and  generosity  to  savage  fury.  Boldness  and 
intrepidity  are  characteristics  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  country.  (^The  liev. 
J.  Evans’s  Tour  in  North  Wales.) 

A  considerable  vein  of  copper  ore  was  discovered  a  few  years  ago  in 
Cwm-glds-llyn,  ‘‘  the  Hollow  of  the  Blue  Pool,”  near  the  feet  of  Clogwyn- 
y-Garnedd.  It  is,  however,  far  less  valuable  than  the  Llanberis  mine.  The 
proprietors  have  made  a  tolerably  good  sledge-path  from  the  Beddgelart 
road,  near  Llyn  Cwellyn,  to  Bwlch  Glas,  a  hollow  just  below  the  highest 
point  of  Snowdon,  whence  there  is  a  winding  road  down  to  the  mine.  Two 
partners  in  this  concern  formed  a  mountain  horse-path  from  Gorphwysfa 
beyond  Llanberis,  to  the  mine,  which  renders  the  ascent  to  the  summit  of 
Snowdon  from  Capel  Curig  and  the  village  of  Llanberis  perfectly  easy. 
(^Bingley.) 

Y-Meini  Hirion  is  situated  about  a  mile  from  Braich-y- Dinas,  and  is 
perhaps  one  of  the  most  remarkable  monuments  in  all  Snowdonia.  It  is 
a  circular  intrenchment  80  feet  in  diameter,  with  10  stones  on  the  outside 
placed  upon  their  ends  ;  the  whole  enclosed  by  a  wall.  Near  this  are  four 
other  small  circles,  and  the  remains  of  a  cromlech.  This  region  appears  to 
have  been  much  inhabited,  for  there  are  many  remains  of  small  buildings, 
such  as  may  have  suited  the  simplicity  of  former  ages. 


ST.  ASAPH. 


From  Rhuddlat),  3  miles.  Pennant;  Pugh. 
Denbigh,  65  miles.  Bingley  ;  Skrine. 
Holywell  10  miles.  Bingley. 

Abergele’,  7  miles.  Aikin ;  Wyndham. 


From  Aber  Conwy,  18  miles.  Hutton. 
Caerwys,  7  miles.  Warner. 
Diserth,  5  miles.  Bingley. 
Ruthin,  12  miles.  Gilpin. 


1 


ST.  ASAPH,  in  Flintshire,  being  a  bishop’s  see,  has  the  appellation  of  a 
city.  It  is  situated  between  the  streams  of  the  Clwyd  and  the  Elwy,  in 
the  most  fertile  part  of  the  vale.  It  was  originally  called  Elan  Elwy,  the 
Church  upon  the  Elwy and,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  hill  upon  which 
it  stands  being  named  Bryn  Paulin,  it  has  been  conjectured  that  the  Roman 
general  Paulinus  encamped  here  when  proceeding  to  Mona.  Standing  upon 
the  side  of  an  elevation,  the  summit  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  cathedral, 
the  appearance  of  St.  Asaph  is  bold,  and  the  plantations  in  which  it  is  now 
embosomed,  produce  an  umbrageous  effect  most  pleasing  to  the  eye.  The 
houses  are  mostly  of  brick,  small,  yet  neat.  Its  population  in  1801  amounted 
to  1515  inhabitants ;  in  1831  to  3144.  A  handsome  stone  bridge  of  five 
arches,  at  one  end  of  the  principal  street,  leads  over  the  Elwy ;  and  another, 
of  more  recent  construction,  to  the  e.  of  the  cathedral,  passes  over  the  Clwyd. 
This  city  appears,  from  its  ecclesiastical  history,  to  be  very  ancient.  Cyn- 
deyrn  Garthwys  ap  Owain,  ap  Urien  Reged,  known  in  Scotland  better  by 


0 


ST.  ASAPH. 


563 


the  name  Kentigern^  who  was  driven  from  his  see  at  Glasgow^  fled  to  this 
place^  and  was  patronised  by  Cadwallon,  uncle  to  Maelgwyn  Gwynedd,  who 
assigned  him  this  spot,  where  he  built  the  church  about  the  year  560,  and 
founded  a  college.  Being  recalled  to  his  native  country,  he  nominated  a 
pious  scholar  called  Asaor  Asaph,  grandson  of  Pabbo-post-Prydain,  his  suc¬ 
cessor.  He  died  in  596,  and  was  buried  in  it.  After  the  Norman  conquest 
the  outrages  that  were  committed  deterred  the  bishops  from  making  it  a 
place  of  residence,  and  the  revenues  escheated  to  the  crown.  About  the 
middle  of  the  12th  century  a  clergyman  named  Gilbert  was  consecrated  to 
the  see,  and  succeeded  by  Galfrid  ap  Arthur,  commonly  called  Geoffry  of 
Monmouth.  In  1247  the  bishops  of  St.  Asaph  and  Bangor  were  driven 
from  their  dioceses,  in  the  wars  carried  on  against  the  Welsh  by  the  princes 
of  the  Anglo-Norman  dynasty. 

The  original  Church  was  formed  of  wood,  and  dedicated  to  the  primitive 
patrons  or  British  saints  Cyndeyrn,  or  St.  Kentigern,  and  Asaf.  The  former, 
observes  Mr.  Rees  in  his  very  able  Essay  on  the  Welsh  Saints,  “  according 
to  Bonedd  y  Saint,  was  the  son  of  O^vain  ah  Urien  Rheged  and  Dwynwen 
the  daughter  of  Llewddyn  Lueddog,  of  Dinas  Eiddyn,  in  the  north.'' 
Another  edifice  was  constructed  of  stone,  which  w^as  consumed  by  fire  in 
1283,  but  was  quickly  repaired.  In  1402  the  cathedral,  canon’s  houses, 
and  episcopal  palace  were  again  consumed.  The  bishop,  John  Trevor,  after¬ 
wards  joined  Glyndwr,  and  appeared  in  arms  with  him  in  1409-  After¬ 
wards  the  church  lay  dilapidated  for  nearly  eighty  years,  when  it  was  rebuilt 
by  the  bounty  of  Bishop  Redman,  assisted  by  voluntary  contributions.  This 
work  forms  the  present  structure,  except  the  choir,  which  was  erected  out 
of  a  fund  vested  in  the  hands  of  the  dean  and  chapter.  Bishop  Hughes,  a 
descendant  from  the  tribe  of  Marchudd,  was  a  great  benefactor  both  to  the 
place  and  see.  He  died  in  l600.  He  bequeathed  land  for  founding  a  free 
grammar  school.  His  successor  was  the  learned  William  Morgan,  an  emi¬ 
nent  linguist  and  divine.  He  died  in  l604.  He  was  the  principal  trans¬ 
lator  of  the  Welsh  Bible  printed  in  1588,  and  assisted  in  the  English 
version,  commonly  called  Queen  Elizabeth’s  Bible.”  Dr.  Isaac  Barrow 
repaired  the  cathedral,  and  founded  an  almshouse  for  eight  poor  widows 
The  excellent  Dr.  Wm.  Beveridge  held  this  see  in  th6  beginning  of  the 
17th  century.  Pursue  the  ecclesiastical  history  of  this  place  in  Godwin 

De  Presulibus,”  and  Willis’s  ‘‘  Cathedrals,”  or  his  History  of  St. 
Asaph.” 

The  Cathedral  is  a  neat,  plain  cruciform  structure ;  its  e.  end  lighted  by 
a  large  window  in  the  pointed  style,  copied  from  one  in  the  ruins  of  Tintern 
Abbey.  The  painted  glass  is  the  performance  of  the  late  ingenious  Eggin- 
ton,  of  Birmingham ;  the  expense  was  defrayed  by  Bishop  Bagot  and  the 
nobility  and  gentry  of  the  county,  many  of  whose  arms  are  emblazoned  on 
the  margin.  The  building  consists  of  a  choir,  recently  enlarged  by  the  ad¬ 
dition  of  the  broad  aisle,  a  nave,  two  aisles,  and  a  transept ;  with  a  low 
heavy  square  tower  in  the  centre,  raised  upon  four  lofty  Gothic  arches. 
Length  from  e.  to  w.  179  ft. ;  from  the  w.  door  to  the  choir  II9  ft. ;  the 
choir  60  ft. ;  of  the  cross  aisles  or  transept,  from  n.  to  s,,  108  ft.  Breadth 
of  the  nave  and  side  aisles  68  ft. ;  height  of  the  nave  6O  ft. ;  of  the  central 
tower  93  ft. ;  square  of  the  tower  30  ft.  A  new  organ  has  been  erected. 
The  monuments  are  inconsiderable.  An  altar-tomb  supporting  a  recumbent 
figure,  clad  in  episcopal  robes,  commemorates  the  munificent  prelate  Dafydd 
ap  Owain,  who  died  in  1512.  In  1829  a  monument  of  white  marble  w^as 
erected,  by  a  subscription  of  600?.,  to  the  memory  of  Dean  Shipley.  It  is 
a  full-length  figure,  in  canonicals,  in  a  sitting  posture,  executed  by  Ter- 

o  o  2 


564 


ST.  ASAPH. 


nouth.  There  is  also  an  altar-tomb  monument^  which  memorialises  the 
departure  of  Bishop  Luxmore  in  1830.  In  the  churchyard_,  near  the  w. 
door,  is  a  plain  tomb  over  the  remains  of  Bishop  Isaac  Barrow,  who  died 
in  1680.  He  was  tutor  to  the  great  mathematician  and  divine  Dr.  Isaac 
Barrow,  his  nephew.  The  chapter  is  composed  of  the  Dean,  the  Arch¬ 
deacon,  who  is  the  Bishop,  the  Precentor,  Chancellor,  Treasurer,  three 
Prebendaries,  and  seven  cursal  Canons.  Besides  these,  four  vicars  choral, 
four  singing  men,  four  choristers,  and  an  organist  are  appended.  The  tower 
of  the  cathedral  commands  a  most  extensive  prospect  of  the  vale  of  Clwyd 
in  every  direction.  6  m.  to  the  n.  is  the  Irish  sea.  The  country  towards 
the  shore  appears  bare,  but  the  opposite  point  produces  a  most  agreeable 
contrast.  The  present  prelate  of  St.  Asaph  is  the  Right  Rev.  W.  Carey, 

D.  D.,  translated  from  the  see  of  Exeter  in  1830.  The  diocese  contains 
135  churches  and  chapels;  its  revenue  is  charged  in  the  Queen’s  books, 
187^.  11^*  8<i. ;  but  its  present  value  is  estimated  at  5300k  per  annum. 
This  diocese  is  to  he  united  with  that  of  Bangor,  except  the  part  in  Salop, 
and  those  parts  of  Montgomery  now  in  the  dioceses  of  St.  David’s  and  Here¬ 
ford.  The  episcopal  palace  was  for  a  long  time  very  unfit  for  the  habit¬ 
ation  of  a  diocesan  ;  but  Bishop  Lewis  Bagot  rebuilt  a  considerable  part  of 
it  upon  an  enlarged  plan.  It  was  lately  rebuilt  upon  a  more  extensive  scale, 
in  an  appropriate  style,  by  the  present  prelate.  The  parish  church  stands 
at  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  and  is  adapted  for  performing  the  service  in 
the  Welsh  language,  both  for  the  town  and  country  ;  the  cathedral  not  being 
used  for  that  language,  the  higher  ranks  appear  there.  This  church  is  a 
small  structure,  without  a  tower,  erected,  it  is  supposed,  in  1524. 

The  episcopal  palace  is  a  large  and  convenient  building,  and  the 
deanery  stands  due  w.  from  the  cathedral,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Elwy,  which  flows  under  the  bishop’s  garden.  During  the  protectorship 
of  Cromwell,  the  post  road  lying  through  this  place,  the  palace  and  cathe¬ 
dral  were  much  injured  by  the  postmaster.  He  had  his  office  in  the 
former,  and  made  great  havoc  in  the  choir  of  the  cathedral,  using  the  font 
as  a  trough  for  watering  his  horses  ;  and  in  order  to  vent  his  spleen  on  the 
clergy,  tied  up  calves  in  the  bishop’s  throne.  A  few  months  since,  in  the 
palace  gardens,  a  fine  large  melon  was  cut,  weighing  101b.,  of  a  quality 
rarely  to  be  met  with.  In  the  same  gardens  are  also  cultivated  to  perfec¬ 
tion  the  Knight's  Elton  Strawberries,  which  are  well  deserving  the  notice 
of  all  who  are  desirous  of  having  such  choice  fruit  as  they  produce.  In 
September,  1836,  they  were  recommended  to  the  gardener  there  as  being 
late  bearers  when  all  others  had  ceased.  They  w^ere  planted  the  same 
month,  but  did  not  bear  fruit  the  first  season  ;  afterwards,  however,  to  the 
astonishment  of  every  witness,  they  produced  fruit  of  a  quality  beyond 
description,  and  of  an  immense  size.  Inn.  The  White  Lion  is  a  posting 
house.  Several  tourists  have  made  excursions  from  this  place  to  Rhuddlan 
Diserth,  and  Denbigh. 

Vinca  minor  grows  in  hedges,  by  the  road-side  near  Eig-y-Frdn,  in  this 
neighbourhood.  At  Cefn  Meiriadog  occurs  barytes,  united  with  vitriolic 
acid,  and  between  St.  Asaph  and  Holywell  with  carbonic  acid,  forming  the 
matrix  both  of  the  sulphate  of  zinc  and  that  of  lead.  Here  also  are  some 
magnificent  natural  caverns.  The  principal  seats  in  this  vicinity  are  Bod- 
ryddan,  dean  of  St.  Asaph.  Two  m.  on  the  r.  of  which  is  Pengwern,  Sir 

E.  Pryse  Lloyd,  Bart.  Bbddelwyddan,  Sir  J.  Williams,  Bart.  ;  and  Kinmel 
Park,  Colonel  Hughes. 

The  road  to  Holywell  lies  across  the  n.  boundary  of  the  vale,  through 
a  country  moderately  fertile  and  populous,  but  uninteresting.  On  a  large 


ST.  ASAPH. 


.565 


common  the  high  road  may  be  left  to  the  r.^  for  the  sake  of  a  visit  to 
Downing,  once  the  seat  of  Mr.  Pennant,  the  celebrated  naturalist ;  the 
situation  is  beautiful,  is  adorned  with  fine  timber,  and  descends  in  a  gentle 
slope  to  the  banks  of  the  Dee.  From  an  eminence  about  2  m.  distant,  on 
the  Holywell  road,  from  the  side  of  a  hill,  a  fine  portion  of  the  vale  of 
Clwyd  may  be  seen.  On  the  s.  appears  Denbigh,  with  the  fragments  of 
its  castle  crowning  the  summit  of  an  isolated  hill.  On  the  n.  the  fallen 
remains  of  Rhuddlan.  The  intervening  space  is  diversified  by  luxuriant 
fields,  meadows,  woods,  and  water,  upon  which  are  scattered  cottages, 
herds,  and  flocks.  The  backgrounds  are  composed  of  perpendicular  rocks 
and  dark  receding  mountains ;  on  the  road  is  a  fine  view  of  the  broad 
estuary  of  the  Dee.  On  the  further  side  the  Cheshire  coast  may  he  seen, 
and  the  long  row  of  good  houses  which  forms  the  fashionable  watering 
place  of  Parkgate. 

The  scenery  from  St.  Asaph  to  Denbigu,  along  the  Vale  of  Clwyd,  is 
not  interesting.  The  depression  of  the  road,  and  great  width  of  the  vale, 
produce  no  prospects,  except  at  a  woody  dell,  3  m.  distant  from  St.  Asaph, 
where  some  villas  on  the  r.,  among  trees,  afford  picturesque  beauties. 
The  followtng  is  preferable  :  — Leave  the  Deanery  on  the  r.,  and  enter  the 
Conwy  road,  which  presently  quit,  taking  that  which  branches  on  the 
1.  to  Denbigh.  On  the  1.  is  Boddelwyddan,  2  m.,  the  seat  of  Sir  John 
Williams,  Bart.,  rebuilt  by  its  late  proprietor,  in  the  English  castellated 
style.  Further,  1  m.,  is  Kinmel,  the  handsome  residence  of  Colonel 
Hughes.  Both  these  domains  command  very  fine  prospects.  Return  into 
the  road  by  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  pass  to  Font  Newydd,  Sg  m.  on 
the  river  Elwy.  Mr.  Pugh  has  given  a  very  interesting  view  of  a  contigu¬ 
ous  dell  watered  by  this  river.  {Tour,  p. 382.)  It  is  expedient,”  says  he, 
to  descend  to  the  bridge  and  mill  below,  then  follow  the  river  towards  the 
hills,  under  a  beautiful  wood,  whence  are  scenes  that  would  interest  a 
Salvator.”  Return  hence  to  the  caves  made  by  Edward  Lloyd,  Esq.,  of 
Cefn,  1  m.  From  the  high  grounds  of  Fids  Galltmaenan,  J.  L.  Salusbury, 
Esq.,  li  m.,  the  scenery  is  very  interesting.  Though  it  may  not  equal  the 
picturesque  glens  of  Merionethshire,  it  excels  every  thing  that  I  have  seen 
in  the  county  of  Montgomery.  This  scenery  lies  something  less  than  3  m. 
from  St.  Asaph  and  Denbigh.  The  architecture  of  the  ancient  mansion  of 
Fojchall  indicates  the  age  of  Elizabeth,  the  windows  being  square,  with 
stone  munnions.  On  entering  Denbigh,  the  castle,  though  a  ruin,  possesses 
uncommon  grandeur. 

Mr.  Pennant  pursued  a  different  route.  The  following  is  his  descrip¬ 
tion  :  —  The  road  from  St.  Asaph  (to  Denbigh),  along  the  common  called 
the  Row,  is  extremely  beautiful.  The  Elwy  runs  beneath  lofty  banks, 
finely  wooded.  At  its  extremity  is  Pont-yr..allt-Gdch,  a  handsome  bridge, 
of  one  lofty  arch,  85  ft.  in  diameter.  The  Elwy  here  takes  another  direc¬ 
tion,  running  w.  and  then  n.  along  most  romantic  dingles,  varied  with 
meadows,  woods,  and  cavernous  rocks.  Y-fynnon-fair,  “  Our  Lady’s 
Well,”  is  a  fine  spring,  inclosed  in  an  angular  wall,  formerly  roofed  ;  and 
the  ruins  of  a  cross-shaped  chapel,  finely  overgrown  with  ivy,  are  in  a  deep 
wooded  bottom,  not  far  distant  from  the  bridge.  A  fine  view  of  these 
picturesque  glens  is  obtained  from  Pencraig,  in  the  grounds  of  Galt-faennan. 
At  Llannerch,  about  ^  m.  to  the  e.  of  the  bridge,  admire  the  charming 
prospect  of  the  Vale  of  Clwyd.  From  TremeircMon-green  is  a  fine  view 
of  the  whole  vale  of  the  w.  boundary,  and  the  lofty  tract  of  Snowdon. 
The  middle,  from  end  to  end,  is  enriched  with  towns  and  castles  ;  among 
which  rises  supreme  the  rock  of  Denbigh,  topped  with  its  great  fortress. 

o  o  3 


566 


ST.  ASAPH. 


In  TrenQeirchion  Church  is  the  mutilated  tomb  of  Sir  Robert  Pounderling. 
Under  a  handsome  Gothic  arch  lies  a  figure  of  Dafydd  Ddu,  or  The 
Black/’  of  Hiraddug.  Underneath  is  inscribed,  Hie  jacet  David  ap 
Roderick  ap  Madog.”  In  the  bottom,  not  far  distant,  lies,  half  buried  in 
•woods,  the  singular  house  of  Bachygraig.  It  consists  of  a  vast  hall  and 
parlour  :  the  rest  of  this  structure  rises  into  six  wonderful  stories,  including 
the  cupola,  and  forms,  from  the  second  floor,  the  figure  of  a  pyramid. 
The  bricks  are  admirable,  and  appear  to  have  been  made  in  Holland.  It 
was  built  by  Sir  Richard  Clough,  an  eminent  merchant,  in  the  reign  of 
Queen  Elizabeth,  who  arose  from  a  menial  situation  at  Denbigh ;  apprenticed 
to  Sir  Thomas  Gresham,  he  became  a  distinguished  merchant  in  Antwerp, 
where  he  died.  His  heart  was  transmitted  in  an  urn  to  England,  and 
deposited  in  Whitchurch.  The  initials  of  his  name  are  in  iron,  upon  the 
front  of  the  edifice,  with  the  date  1567-  It  was  the  property  of  Mrs. 
Piozzi,  but  occupied  only  for  farming  purposes.  In  this  house  were 
tolerably  good  portraits  of  Oliver  Cromwell,  the  Pretender,  Sir  Hugh 
Myddleton,  &c.  Mr.  Pennant  here  crossed  the  Clwyd  upon  Font-y-Cam- 
hull,  and  turning  to  the  1.,  again  passed  over  at  Pont  Rhy  fydd,  in  order  to 
search  in  the  parish  of  Bodfari,  for  the  ancient  Roman  station  Varis,  but 
without  success.  Caerwys  was  probably  its  site.  Bodfari  may  signify 
a  township  belonging  to  the  station  Varis;  it  is  an  excellent  angling  station. 
The  sole  remaining  antiquity  is  a  British  post  upon  a  hill  to  the  1.,  called 
Moel-y-Gaer,  “the  Hill  of  the  Camp.”  The  district  about 
is  singularly  fine,  consisting  of  detached  hills,  clothed  with  timber ;  a 
charming  extent  of  meadows,  and  the  lofty  mountain,  Moel-y-parc, 
skirted  with  trees,  contrasting  itself  to  the  softer  part  of  the  scenery.  This 
place  has  been  called  Llys  Maes  Mynan,  where  Llywelyn  ap  GryfFyd,  last 
Prince  of  Wales,  resided  in  a  house,  the  foundation  of  which  was, 
some  years  since,  to  be  seen  in  an  adjacent  meadow.  Quit  the  turnpike- 
road  on  the  L,  ford  the  Wheler,  and  after  crossing  the  Clwyd,  reach 
Llewenny,  Upon  this  spot  is  said  to  have  resided,  about  the  year  720, 
March weithian,  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes,  or  nobility  of  N.  Wales.  This 
place,  notwithstanding  its  flat  situation,  commands  most  pleasing  views  of 
the  mountains  on  each  side  of  the  vale.  The  late  Hon.  Thomas  Fitz- 
Maurice,  in  order  to  encourage  his  tenants  in  Ireland  to  promote  the 
national  manufacture,  received  his  rents  in  brown  linen,  which  he  brought 
over  to  the  bleaching-house  which  he  had  erected  here  for  the  purpose, 
about  the  year  1780,  at  the  expense  of  upwards  of  20,000/.  ;  it  is  con¬ 
sidered  the  most  elegant  structure  of  the  kind  in  Europe.  For  some  time, 
about  4000  pieces  were  annually  imported  and  bleached,  and  the  honourable 
manufacturer,  heedless  of  peerage,  coronets,  and  blood,  regularly  attended 
Chester  fairs  in  person,  changing  the  dignity  of  a  brother  of  the  most 
noble  the  Marquis  of  Lansdowne  into  a  linen-draper.  He  acted  thus,  in 
order  that  the  spirit  of  trade  and  manufacture  should  triumph  over  the 
dregs  of  the  feudal  system  ;  and  that  the  prejudices  of  the  "Welsh  gentry 
in  favour  of  long  pedigrees  of  ancestry,  to  the  utter  neglect  and  contempt 
of  the  more  laudable  pursuits  of  agriculture  and  commerce,  should  be  anni¬ 
hilated.  He  was  convinced  that  he  derived  more  true  honour  from  the 
title  over  his  linen  shop  at  Chester,  i.  e.,  “  Bally  mote  Manufacture,”  than 
from  the  most  pompous  motto,  in  French  or  Latin,  upon  his  escutcheon. 
These  works  were  carried  on  by  Mr.  Dumbell,  from  Warrington,  where 
muslins,  ginghams,  and  other  cotton  goods,  diapers,  and  other  linens,  were 
finished  ready  for  sale.  Whitchurch  or  St.  Marcellus,  the  parish  church 
of  Denbigh,  lies  about  1^  m.  w.  of  this  house.  In  the  hedges  of  a  wood 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


567 


near  the  turnpike- road  to  Denbigh  grows  Campanula  Trachelium,  and  in 
a  wet  ditch,  upon  the  r.  side  of  the  road,  Mentha  Acutafoh'a. 

To  Conwy,  16  m.  Four  m.  on  the  r.  is  Kinmel,  Llan  St.  Sior,  St. 
George’s^  f  m.;  Abergele,  2  m.  ;  Llandulas,  2^  m. ;  Ferryhouse,  8  m.  ; 
Conwy,  ^  m.  The  road  is  hilly,  but  hard  and  good,  and  the  surrounding 
country  pleasant. 

To  Rhuddlan  the  scenery  is  very  pleasing.  When  distant  1  m.  from 
St.  Asaph,  on  taking  a  retrospect,  the  single  streeted  little  city  is  seen  to 
occupy  the  slope  of  the  hill,  at  the  summit  of  which  stands  the  cathedral; 
the  intermingled  trees  and  houses,  with  the  little  river  Clwyd  flowing  at 
the  bottom,  under  a  majestic  bridge  of  five  arches,  form  a  very  beautiful 
scene.  In  a  hedge  close  to  the  river,  about  100  yards  above  the  ford,  at 
Rhyd-y-Ddae-Dwfr,  on  the  e.  side  of  the  river,  grows  Stellaria  nemorum. 
Pengwern  on  the  1.,  2  m. 

To  Abergele  cross  the  river  Elwy,  close  to  the  town,  the  course  of 
which  is  to  the  Clwyd.  Pass  the  Deanery,  which  has  been  lately  restored 
by  the  present  Dean,  the  very  Rev.  C.  Scott  Luxmore.  Hence  to  Brin- 
y-celin,  on  the  r.  to  Cross  Foxes,  on  the  1.,  2  m.  A  mile  beyond,  on  the 
r.,  is  Kinmel  House  and  park,  the  seat  of  Colonel  Hughes.  Llan  St, 
Sior,  or  St.  George’s,  2  m.  Abergele,  2  m. 


To  Denbigh,  6i  miles,  fennant  j  Bingley  ;  Hut¬ 
ton  ;  Pugh. 

Abergele,  7  miles.  Skrine  ;  Bingley. 


To  Holywell,  10  miles.  Aikin. 

Rhuddlan,  3  miles.  Warner  ;  Pugh. 
Crucis  Abbey,  25  miles.  Gilpin. 


ST.  DAVID’S. 

From  Haverfordwest,  16 miles.  Barber;  Evans;  I  From  Fishguard,  16  miles.  Malkin;  Fenton 
Wyndham;  Skrine.  | 

ST.  DAVID’S,  a  city  and  parish  in  Pembrokeshire,  is  situated  upon  the 
most  w.  part  of  the  county,  near  the  promontory  called  St.  David’s  Head, 
called  by  the  Welsh  Ty-Ddewi,  by  the  Romans  Menevia.  St.  David’s 
consisted  formerly  of  five  streets,  but  is  now  reduced  in  appearance  to  a 
mere  village  ;  the  houses,  with  very  few  exceptions,  besides  those  of  the 
clergy,  being  small  and  meanly  built.  Its  population  in  1831,  amounted 
to  2388  inhabitants.  It  is  probable  that  the  Roman  Menapia  did  not  stand 
on  the  site  of  the  present  city  ;  for  pious  devotees  always  choose  recluse 
situations.  The  elaborate  Dr.  Stukeley,  in  his  Medallic  History  of  Ca- 
rausius,  has  published  a  series  of  engravings  representing  medals  in  eluci¬ 
dation  of  his  subject.  Several  of  these  were  struck  at  the  place  of  Carau- 
sius’s  birth  ;  and  Aurelius  Victor  applies  to  him  the  epithet  “  Civis  Me- 
napiffi.”  Not  far  from  Porthmawr,  the  probable  site  of  Old  Menapia,  there 
is  a  place  named  Carawswdig.  Mr.  Fenton  has  ably  defended  his  country¬ 
man  Carausius  against  the  panegyrists  of  Maximilian  and  Dioclesian,  and 
declares  that  however  “  vilissime  natus  ”  he  might  have  been,  the  greater 
was  his  merit  in  triumphing  over  natural  impediments ;  and  every  candid 
mind  will  allow  that  he  is  a  less  noble  character  who  inherits  honours, 
originally  conferred  as  the  reward  of  atrocity,  than  he  who,  by  asserting 
his  native  dignity,  adds  brilliancy  to  honours  and  titles  of  his  own  acquir¬ 
ing.  Most  writers  agree  that  a  religious  establishment  was  formed  here  by 
St.  Padrig  or  Patrick,  prior  to  the  time  of  St.  David.  All  the  pedigrees 
agree  that  the  latter  was  the  son  of  a  prince  of  Cardiganshire,  of  the  ancient 
regal  line  of  Cunedda  Wledig.  Some  state  that  he  was  the  son  of  Xanthus, 

o  o  4 


568 


ST.  DAVID’S, 


son  of  Ceredig,  lord  of  Ceredigion,  and  Non,  daughter  of  Gynyr,  of 
Caergawh,  Pembrokeshire.  (See  Myvyr.  Arch.  ii.  38.  41.)  Discovering  a 
studious  inclination,  he  was  sent  early  to  Menevia,  called  also  Mynyw  or  Me» 
new-hen.  The  term  Menevia  is  derived  from  Main-aw,^^  a  narrow  water,” 
frith,  or  strait.  (See  Mon.  Ant.  193.)  Menevia  was  afterwards  named 
Ty  Ddewi,  “  David’s  House,”  answering  to  the  present  St.  David’s,  which 
was  a  seminary  of  learning  and  nursery  of  saints.  After  some  years,  David 
left  Menevia,  and  settled  in  the  Isle  of  Wight,  attracted  thither  by  the 
learning  and  sanctity  of  Paulinus,  disciple  of  St.  Germanus.  Others  say  he 
went  to  Ty-gwyn,  Daf,  or  Whitland  Abbey  in  Carmarthenshire,  a  cele¬ 
brated  college,  where,  in  the  10th  century,  were  composed  the  laws  of 
Hywel  Dda.  He,  however,  returned  to  Menevia,  where  he  settled  in  a  con¬ 
vent  which  he  founded.  He  drew  hither  Teilo,  Padarn,  Aeddan,  alias 
Madog,  Ismael,  Cgnwyl,  and  other  illustrious  personages.  Each  member  of 
this  institution  laboured  daily,  according  to  the  apostle’s  injunction, — If 
any  man  work  not,  neither  should  he  eat.”  They  employed  no  animal  in 
servitude,  each  performing  his  enjoined  task.  Having  concluded  the  labours 
of  the  field,  they  returned  to  the  monastery,  where  they  spent  the  remain¬ 
der  of  the  day  in  reading  and  writing.  In  the  evening,  at  the  sound  of 
a  bell,  they  repaired  to  church,  where  they  remained  till  the  stars  appeared. 
They  then  went  to  the  refectory,  eating  sparingly  of  bread,  with  roots  or 
herbs  seasoned  with  salt,  and  quenching  their  thirst  with  milk  and  water. 
After  supper,  they  continued  about  three  hours  employed  in  watchings, 
prayers,  and  genuflections.  During  this  time  they  were  not  permitted  to 
expectorate,  sneeze,’ or  slumber.  After  a  short  repose,  they  rose  at  cock- 
crowing,  continuing  in  prayer  till  day  appeared.  In  the  early  period  of  this 
institution  David  met  with  great  annoyance  from  Boia,  whose  castle  over¬ 
looked  the  vale  ;  but  the  amiable  inoffensiveness  of  the  saint  so  much 
wrought  upon  and  softened  the  pagan  tyrant,  that  he  not  only  withheld  all 
persecution,  but  ultimately  settled  the  vale  and  other  lands  upon  the  mo¬ 
nastery.  St.  David  afterwards  travelled  to  Rome  and  Jerusalem,  attended 
by  Teilo  and  Padarn,  his  inseparable  companions.  (See  Myvyr.  A7'ch..  ii.  6l.) 
Soon  after  the  return  of  these  pilgrims,  Dubricius  (Dyfrig)  Archbishop  of 
Caerleon,  convened  a  synod  at  IJanddewi-hrefi,  or  suppressing  the  Pelagian 
heresy,  which  at  that  time  prevailed  exceedingly.  It  is  said  that  David,  by 
his  great  knowledge  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  and  a  resistless  torrent  of  elo¬ 
quence,  eradicated  the  errors  of  Pelagius,  whose  doctrines  were  the  follow¬ 
ing  :  —  That  Adam  would  have  died,  even  if  he  had  not  sinned.  That 
the  consequences  of  Adam  and  Eve’s  sin  were  confined  to  themselves. 
That  we  derive  no  contamination  from  their  fall,  but  are  born  pure  and  un¬ 
spotted.  That  when  mankind  err  they  are  capable  of  repentance  and 
amendment,  and  of  arriving  to  the  highest  degrees  of  piety  and  virtue,  by  the 
use  of  their  own  natural  faculties  and  powers.  That  a  man  may  live  free 
from  sin  in  this  life.  That  the  general  resurrection  does  not  follow  in 
virtue  of  Christ’s  resurrection,”  &c.  The  founder  of  this  sect  was  a  native 
of  Wales,  called  Morgan,  rendered  Pelagius  in  Greek.  During  this  period 
of  heresy  and  distraction,  Dubricius,  broken  with  age  and  infirmity,  and  un¬ 
equal  to  the  task  of  governing  the  church  resigning  his  charge  to  David, 
retired  to  Bardsey  Island.  (See  Peter  s  Hanes  Crefydd,  p.  l62,)  David 
then  translated  to  his  favourite  Menevia  the  archiepiscopal  see  from  Caer- 
leon-ar-Wysc,  the  Urbs  Legionum  super  Oscam  ”  of  the  Latins,  now 
Carleon  in  Monmouthshire,  then  a  large  and  populous  city,  the  seat  of 
royalty.  David  was  the  first  of  twenty-six  archbishops  of  Menevia  ;  the 
last  was  Sampson,  who,  during  the  raging  of  the  plague  in  the  10th  cen- 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


569 

tury  transferred  the  archiepiscopal  power  of  this  place  to  Dol  in  Bretagne. 
In  the  12th  century  it  began  to  be  subject  to  the  see  of  Canterbury.  On 
the  death  of  bishop  Rhyddmarch,  in  the  year  1098,  instruction  ceased  at 
this  establishment.  Archbishop  David  died  here  about  the  year  544,  after 
he  had  filled  the  metropolitan  chair  of  W ales  for  Oo  years.  His  remains 
lie  in  his  own  cathedral.  About  500  years  after  his  death  he  was  canonised 
by  Pope  Calixtus  II.  Bishop  Ferrar  was  a  martyr  in  the  cause  of  protest- 
antism  at  Carmarthen  in  the  l6th  century  ;  Dr.  Richard  Davies  also  was  an 
unflinching  opposer  of  Romish  intolerance.  The  latter  assisted  in  trans¬ 
lating  Parker’s,  or  the  Bishop’s  Bible  into  English,  and  co-operated  with 
William  Salusbury  in  publishing  the  first  New  Testament  in  Welsh.  The 
persecuted  ashes  of  the  former  were  barbarously  scattered  about,  and  the 
remains  of  the  latter  lie  in  the  chancel  of  Abergwili  church.  Robert  Lowth, 
prebendary  of  Durham,  who  was  eminently  distinguished  for  his  learning 
and  amiable  manners,  was  elevated  to  this  see  in  1766,  and  subsequently 
to  that  of  London.  Dr.  George  Bull,  appointed  in  1704,  and  Dr.  Samuel 
Horsley  in  1788,  were  eminent  prelates  of  this  see.  The  late  Bishop 
Burgess  projected  and  formed  a  Society  for  promoting  Christian  Know¬ 
ledge  and  Church  Union  ”  in  his  diocese ;  its  objects  were  to  distribute 
bibles  and  common -prayer  books  at  reduced  prices  ;  to  circulate  Welsh  and 
English  religious  tracts  gratis  among  the  poor  ;  to  establish  libraries  for  the 
use  of  the  clergy  of  the  diocese ;  to  facilitate  the  means  of  educating  young 
men  intended  for  the  ministry  of  the  Church  of  England  in  the  diocese  ; 
to  encourage  the  establishment  of  English  schools  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor ; 
and  to  promote  the  institution  of  Sunday  schools.  These  purposes  to  be 
carried  into  effect  by  annual  subscriptions,  1st.  For  general  purposes  ; 
2d.  For  exhibitions  ;  Sd.  For  the  building  at  Llanddewi-Brefi  ;  for  the 
college  library ;  and  for  supporting  superannuated  curates. 

The  episcopal  establishment  of  St.  David’s  is  an  impressive  instance  of  the 
perishable  nature  of  every  thing  human ;  once  seven  suffragans  were  included 
within  its  metropolitan  pale ;  viz.  Worcester,  Hereford,  Llandaff,  Bangor, 
St.  Asaph,  Llanbadarn,  and  Margam.  St.  David’s,  though  now  only  a  remnant 
of  what  it  once  was,  still  retains  a  strong  outline  of  its  former  magnificence. 
Including  the  divines  who  have  since  succeeded  to  this  bishopric,  this  see 
has  had  the  most  numerous  prelacy  in  the  kingdom,  among  whom  were 
twenty-six  archbishops.  The  original  city  was  finely  situated  upon  a  sloping 
ground  facing  the  sea,  at  the  distance  of  2  m.  High  Street,  in  which  the 
Cross  stands,  and  where  once  markets  were  held,  was  of  considerable  extent. 
From  this  cross  the  gateway  to  the  episcopal  buildings  appear  in  a  low  situ¬ 
ation.  The  body  of  the  Cathedral  is  hidden,  but  the  tower  and  part  of  the 
palace  are  visible.  The  country  in  the  distance  is  wild,  exposed,  and  cheerless. 
Here  small  and  mean  farm-houses,  extensive  but  unprofitable  sheep-walks, 
rocky  hills,  neglected  valleys,  large  enclosures  separated  by  broken  walls, 
and  a  soil  which  is  every  where  utterly  insufficient  to  conceal  its  nakedness 
and  deformity  strike  the  eye.  A  craggy  eminence  on  the  1.,  is  the  n.  extremity 
of  Ramsey  Island,  separated  from  the  main  land  by  a  sound  of  about  1  m. 
in  breadth.  Two  smaller  islands,  visible  in  the  distance,  form  part  of  a 
cluster  called  the  Bishop  and  his  Clerks,”  and  contribute  to  render  the 
navigation  difficult  and  hazardous.  The  Close  includes  within  its  em¬ 
battled  wall  the  venerable  cathedral,  the  episcopal  palace,  the  houses  of 
some  of  the  dignitaries,  with  skeletons  of  several  in  ruins ;  it  was  in 
circuit  1200  yards,  and  had  a  walk  round,  with  a  crenelled  parapet.  The 
entrance  was  by  four  gateways.  This  enclosure  was  rich  in  buildings, 
and  even  in  decay,  as  it  suddenly  breaks  upon  the  view,  from  the  entrance 


570 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


above  the  valley,  forms  a  most  striking  coup  d’ociL  The  Tower  Gate,  through 
which  is  the  principal  entrance  into  the  Close,  and  which  leads  from  the  town, 
and  connects  with  all  the  main  roads  from  the  interior,  consists  of  a  large 
octagonal  tower,  60  ft.  in  height,  with  a  rich  doorway  facing  the  e.  end  of 
the  church,  and  opening  into  the  churchyard.  This  building  formed  the 
consistory  court,  and  the  record  office  of  the  see.  The  opposite  wing, 
consisting  likewise  of  a  tower,  is  connected  with  the  other  by  a  range  of 
buildings  extending  over  the  gateway,  where  are  the  council  chamber  and 
other  large  apartments,  supposed  to  have  been  appropriated  to  the  mayor 
of  the  town.  Under  these  were  the  porter’s  lodge  on  one  side  the  gateway  ; 
on  the  other  a  prison  with  a  dungeon  in  the  centre,  having  no  other 
entrance  than  a  circular  opening  in  the  floor,  surmounted  by  a  strong 
grating  of  iron.  A  paved  road  without  the  churchyard  wall  leads  straight 
from  this  entrance  to  the  house  of  the  precentor,  which  adjoins  the  s.  wall 
of  the  Close,  and  consists  of  a  handsome  hall,  containing  commodious 
rooms  and  excellent  offices.  The  house  is  recessed  within  a  court;  the  prin¬ 
cipal  rooms  were  built  by  Archdeacon  Holcombe,  and  occupy  a  front  looking 
upon  the  Merry  Vale,  which  opens  to  a  terrace  raised  by  Chanter  Davies, 
about  the  year  1730.  To  the  s.,  extending  to  the  Close  wall,  occurs  the 
Chanter’s  orchard,  containing  a  fish-pond,  once  an  appendage  to  the  palace. 
These  are  divided  from  the  precentor’s  gardens  and  the  prebendal  grounds  of 
Aberarth  by  the  road  leading  to  Patrick’s  Gate.  At  the  s.  w.  angle  of  the 
iaid  orchard  which  the  river  skirts,  there  is  an  arched  bridge  and  square 
tower  projecting  from  the  Close  wall.  This  erection  is  called  Pont-cerwyn~ 
Ddewi,  the  Bridge  of  David’s  brewing  Vat.”  The  Bishop's  Palace  oc¬ 
cupied  a  square  area  on  the  w.  side  of  the  river,  and  exhibits  a  ruin  of 
prodigious  extent  in  tbe  early  style  of  pointed  architecture,  with  superb 
decorations.  The  grand  entrance  is  through  a  beautiful  gateway  now  in 
ruins  ;  and  adjoining  was  the  porter’s  lodge  opening  into  a  spacious  qua¬ 
drangle.  Directly  opposite  was  an  elegant  porch  and  flight  of  steps  leading 
into  the  Great  Hall,  the  arch  of  which  affords  a  rare  example  of  an  inverted 
ogee  sweep  ;  and  above  it  are  two  niches  richly  wrought,  each  containing 
statues.  This  magnificent  room  is  Q6  ft.  by  33  ft.,  and  is  lighted  by  lofty 
side  windows,  among  which  is  a  curious  circular  one  at  the  s.  end,  adorned 
with  rich  mullions  and  tracery.  At  the  s.  w.  end  of  the  hall  was  a  spacious 
drawing-room  ;  and  more  to  the  w.,  a  range  of  buildings  once  probably  the 
royal  bed-chambers.  The  Chapel,  the  tower  and  spire  of  which  built  with 
freestone,  are  still  standing,  is  connected  with  the  drawing-room  by  a  door, 
and  with  the  outer  court  by  a  staircase  and  porch.  The  n.e.  side  of  the 
quadrangle  was  entirely  appropriated  to  the  bishop.  This  hall  measured 
67  ft.  by  25  ft.,  and  was  entered  by  a  handsome  porch  and  a  flight  of  steps 
from  the  court.  At  the  n.  end  was  a  large  drawing-room,  and  more  n.  a 
chapel  extended  to  the  porter’s  lodge.  To  the  e.  facing  the  church,  was  a 
range  of  buildings  for  the  bishop’s  bedchambers,  and  other  private  rooms. 
At  the  s.  end  of  the  Bishop’s  Hall  was  the  kitchen,  an  oblong  square 
36  ft.  by  28  ft.,  having  a  low  pillar  in  the  centre,  from  which  issued  four 
groins,  forming  circular  divisions,  each  terminating  in  chimnies.  The 
rooms  within  were  lofty,  the  exterior  walls  were  7  ft.  higher,  forming  a 
parapet  round  the  buildings,  consisting  of  a  succession  of  arches  wrought 
of  chequered  purple  and  yellow  freestone ;  the  sweep  of  each  arch  was 
enriched  with  fretwork.  This  style  of  architecture  characterises  the 
buildings  ascribed  to  Bishop  Gower,  observable  in  Swansea  Castle  and 
parts  of  the  old  palace  of  Llamphey.  The  defaced  statues  of  Edward  III. 
and  his  Queen  Philippa,  are  placed  over  the  doorway  of  the  principal 


ST.  DAVID’S, 


571 


porch.  The  basement  story  is  made  up  of  curious  and  spacious  vaults. 
Opposite  the  n.  e.  side  of  the  episcopal  quadrangle,,  and  separated  hy  the 
avenue  from  Porthgwyn,,  or  the  Whitegate,  is  the  house  of  the  archdeacon 
of  St.  David’s.  It  is  situated  within  a  court  entered  hy  a  covered  gateway, 
and  was  chiefly  rebuilt  during  the  episcopacy  of  Bishop  Watson.  Farther 
on  the  N.  in  the  same  line,  is  the  residence  of  the  archdeacon  of  Brecon  ; 
it  is  within  a  court,  and  is  approached  through  a  gateway.  Over  the  door 
are  escutcheons  which  indicate  the  age  of  Henry  VII.  I'he  architect  was 
W.  Walter,  then  archdeacon  of  Brecon  ;  being  charged  with  having  begun 
what  he  could  not  complete,  when  this  structure  was  completed,  he  in¬ 
scribed  on  various  parts  of  the  building  the  following  laconic  reply  —  Cre- 
dite  operibus.”  Farther,  in  the  same  direction,  occurs  the  Chancellor  s 
House,  recessed  within  a  court  containing  sundry  offices,  a  spacious  hall, 
in  which  is  a  dais  or  raised  floor  at  the  end  ;  this  noble  apartment  is  backed 
by  hanging  gardens.  To  the  e.  of  the  chancellor’s  house  and  divided  from 
it  hy  the  road  leading  to  Bunning’s  Gate,  is  the  archdeacon  of  Cardigan  s 
ground;  the  house  is  now  a  heap  of  ruins.  To  the  s.  of  this  stands  the 
Treasurers  House,  with  its  offices  and  grounds.  It  underwent  much 
reparation  during  the  episcopacy  of  Dr.  Clavering  ;  it  has  since  been  com¬ 
pressed  into  a  convenient  modern  mansion.  A  house  annexed  to  the 
prebend  of  St.  Nicholas,  Penyfoes,  occupies  the  space  adjoining  the  bridge, 
crossing  which  enter  the  quadrangle  of  the  cloisters  by  a  door  from  without. 
The  Cloisters  were  attached  to  the  n.  side  of  the  nave  of  the  cathedral. 
The  w.  cloister  was  formerly  occupied  by  a  Free  School  and  Library, 
afterwards  removed  to  the  audit-room,  and  lastly  to  the  chapter-house. 
The  basement  wall  of  the  chapel  of  St,  Mary’s  College,  forms  the  n.  side 
of  the  cloisters,  from  which  by  a  grand  ascent  of  steps  under  and 
through  the  first  story  of  a  square  tower  groined  at  the  w.  end,  there 
was  a  fine  entrance  into  the  chapel.  This  collegiate  chantry  was  conjointly 
founded  by  John  of  Gaunt,  Duke  of  Lancaster,  Blanche,  his  wife,  and  Bishop 
Adam  Hoton,  by  the  latter  of  whom  it  was  endowed  with  the  advowson 
of  several  churches,  for  the  maintenance  of  a  master  and  seven  fellows. 
This  college  stood  to  the  n.  of  the  cloister,  and  was  hounded  on  the  w. 
by  the  river  Alun.  Its  fine  remains  indicate  that  the  structure  once 
ranked  in  the  first  class  of  elegance  and  true  proportion.  The  chapel  from 
E.  to  w.,  is  69  ft.  in  length,  in  breadth  23  ft.  9  the  height  of  the 

side  walls  45  ft. ;  the  height  of  the  tower  is  70  ft.  The  whole  building 
was  constructed  over  a  curious  crypt,  afterwards  converted  into  a  charnel- 
house,  through  which  flows  a  rill  of  water.  Opposite  to  this  precinct,  and 
divided  by  a  narrow  passage  only,  is  the  vicar’s  ground. 

The  erections  thus  described,  compose  the  ruins  of  the  Outer-close,  the  inner 
contains  the  cemetery  and  more  immediate  precinct  of  the  Cathedral.  This 
venerable  structure,  from  some  superstitious  attachment  probably  to  the  spot, 
was  erected  on  damp  boggy  ground.  The  fabric  rose  much  under  the  aus¬ 
pices  of  Peter  de  Leia,  who,  to  make  room  for  his  enlargements,  excavated 
the  hill  till  he  hared  the  spring  which  saturates  the  soil.  This  origo  mali,” 
now  choked  up  with  rubbish,  became  the  miraculous  Pistyll-Ddewi.  The 
cathedral  is  cruciform,  having  the  transepts  nearly  in  the  centre,  upon 
which  rises  the  great  tower-wall.  The  principal  entrance,  never  open  but 
on  days  of  ceremonious  procession,  is  at  the  w.  end  of  the  nave,  and  is 
called  the  Bishop’s  Door  ;  that  which  is  more  frequented  occurs  on  the 
s.  side  by  a  porch  with  a  richly  painted  doorway  ;  in  the  outer  division 
of  the  architrave  there  are  small  statues,  and  over  the  arch  are  three 
of  larger  dimensions.  Opposite  this  entrance  is  another  door.  The  whole 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


572 

is  divided  into  a  nave  with  two  side  aisles^  a  choir  occupying  the  area  of 
the  steeple^  a  n.  and  s.  transept  and  cliancel^  having  a  n.  and  s.  aisle 
co-extensive  with  it,  and  the  chapels  to  the  e.  except  the  Ladies"  Chapel. 
The  length  of  the  whole  building  within  the  walls,  is  307  ft. ;  that  of  the 
nave  to  the  entrance  into  the  choir  128h  ft.  ;  the  choir  and  chancel  up  to 
the  high  altar,  98-^  ft. ;  breadth  of  the  nave  within,  69^  ft. ;  each  tran¬ 
sept  47  ft.  by  33.  The  entrance  into  the  cathedral  from  the  w.  end,  is 
awfully  striking.  The  nave  is  finely  proportioned,  yet  simple,  separated 
from  the  side  aisles  by  two  rows  of  arches,  five  Saxon  and  one  pointed, 
near  the  w.  end.  The  architecture  of  this  portion  is  chiefly  of  the  Saxon 
style,  and  of  that  age  when  it  merged  into  the  early  pointed  or  English 
order.  Some  of  the  arches  of  the  gallery  are  also  Saxon,  but  the  greater 
number  are  Norman  or  Gothic.  The  several  architraves  to  the  lower  and 
upper  arches  abound  with  an  infinite  variety  of  diagonals,  frets,  and  fo¬ 
liage.  The  age  of  the  nave  may  be  attributed  to  the  reign  of  John  ;  but  the 
rood-loft  bespeaks  the  era  of  the  third  Edward,  and  affords  a  very  fine  spe¬ 
cimen  of  this  portion  of  an  ancient  cathedral,  whether  elegance  of  design 
or  richness  of  execution  be  regarded.  The  elaborate  and  beautiful  roof  of 
the  nave  is  composed  of  Irish  oak,  said  to  be  proof  against  worms  and 
never  approached  by  a  spider  ;  but  it  has  partaken  of  the  general  decay, 
and  many  of  the  smaller  decorations  have  fallen  from  their  places.  This 
roof  has  been  evidently  substituted  instead  of  original  groins  found  to  be 
giving  way  and  therefore  lowered.  Under  the  fifth  arch  from  the  nave, 
from  the  w.,  is  the  monument  of  Bishop  Morgan,  which  had  been  con¬ 
cealed  for  a  century  amongst  the  pews.  This  tomb  is  enriched  with 
statues  of  the  apostles,  the  Bishop’s  arms,  and  an  exquisite  basso  relievo  of 
the  Resurrection.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  s.  aisle,  under  an  arch  of 
singular  construction,  is  the  effigy  of  Geoffery  Canton.  Under  the  rood- 
loft,  covered  with  a  ground  canopy,  are  three  recumbent  effigies.  The 
principal  figure  is  Bishop  Gower.  The  next  is  said  to  be  that  of  Chancellor 
Stradling,  1539  j  on  the  n,  side  of  the  porch  is  an  effigy  of  Treasurer 
John  Lewis,  1541.  The  choir  is  unusually  lofty,  occupying  the  whole 
area  of  the  tower,  and  is  based  upon  immense  arches  of  various  orders. 
The  eye  will  be  irresistibly  attracted  by  the  very  rich  and  elegant  design 
of  the  E.  window.  The  high  altar  is  approached  by  a  gradual  ascent. 
The  floor  is  paved  with  ornamental  tiles,  and  the  roof  of  wood  is  painted 
and  enriched  wdth  the  arms  of  benefactors.  In  this  choir  are  28  stalls  for 
dignitaries,  under  the  seats  of  which  is  grotesque  carved  work.  The 
Bishop’s  throne  stands  at  the  s.e.  angle  of  the  choir,  and  is  said  to  be  un¬ 
equalled  in  its  execution  except  by  that  at  Exeter.  Almost  opposite  is  the 
moveable  pulpit,  standing  upon  a  stone  in  the  pavement.  Beyond  the 
screen  which  separates  the  choir  from  the  chancel,  and  exactly  opposite  the 
entrance  to  it,  is  an  altar-tomb  not  unlike  that  of  Prince  Arthur  at  Wor¬ 
cester,  which  memorialises  Edmon  Tudor,  who  was  the  eldest  son  of  Owain 
Tudor,  by  Queen  Catherine,  dowager  of  Henry  V.  Pie  w^as  buried  at 
Grey  Friars,  Carmarthen,  whence  his  remains  were  removed,  and  the 
monument  brought  hither.  On  the  n.  side  of  this  tomb  is  the  shrine  of 
St.  David,  of  simple  construction  ;  its  ornaments  consist  of  one  row  of  four 
quatrefoil  openings,  upon  a  plain  tomb.  Upon  the  opposite  side  are  the 
effigies  of  bishops  Anselm  and  Jorwerth.  Towards  the  centre  of  the 
chancel,  under  plain  recesses  backed  with  elegant  wood-Avork  screens,  are 
the  monuments  of  Rhys  ap  Gryffgdd,  Prince  of  S.  Wales,  and  his  son, 
Rhys  Griig.  Their  effigies  are  in  freestone,  spiritedly  sculptured.  The 
one  on  the  s.  side  represents  a  figure  rather  advanced  in  years,  in  a 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


573 


recumbent  attitude^  thus  attired: — upon  the  head  is  a  singularly  shaped 
helmet,  terminating  gradually  in  a  sharp  edge  at  the  top,  and  without  vizier  ; 
the  lower  part  composed  of  ring  armour,  which  envelopes  the  neck  down 
to  the  shoulders,  and  forms  a  gorget.  Below  it  is  a  breastplate  with  an 
engrailed  border.  To  a  handsome  belt  is  suspended  a  long  sword  ;  the 
thighs,  legs,  and  feet  of  this  effigy  are  covered  with  plates  of  iron  ;  on  the 
heel  are  also  spurs.  A  lion  rampant  is  sculptured  on  the  breastplate,  and 
there  is  an  animal  of  the  same  species  at  the  feet.  With  the  life  of  Rhys, 
the  principality  of  S.  Wales  terminated.  While  he  lived,  curtailed  and 
diminished  as  was  his  power,  yet  did  that  power  continue  formidable.  He 
was  distinguished  both  as  an  invincible  warrior  and  profound  politician. 
Within  the  communion  rails  is  the  monument  of  Treasurer  Lloyd,  of  Mil- 
field,  Cardiganshire ;  and  in  the  wall  a  marble  tablet  commemorates 
Chancellor  Needham.  About  the  year  1720,  there  were  five  bells  in  the 
tower,  one  weighing  about  4  cwt.,  tolled  to  prayers.  The  n.  transept  is  a 
plain  undignified  building,  a  small  portion  of  which  is  separated  by  a  screen 
said  to  have  formed  a  penitentiary.  Under  a  canopy  is  a  plain  tomb  having 
on  each  side  two  quatrefoil  perforations  and  recessed  niches  between.  The 
floor  is  peopled  with  modern  gravestones,  which  have  superseded  those  of 
more  ancient  date.  The  s.  transept  is  named  the  Chanter’s  or  St.  David’s 
Chapel.  The  present  ruinous  part  of  this  structure,  which  in  1717  was 
in  good  repair,  suffered  during  the  great  rebellion  exceedingly,  when  the 
lead  was  spoliated.  The  portions  now  unroofed,  consist  of  two  side  aisles 
of  the  chancel  and  the  lady’s  chapel ;  Bishop  Vaughan’s  chapel  and  the 
vestibule  have  their  roofs  entire.  Two  opposite  doors  lead  from  the  chancel 
to  the  unroofed  aisles.  In  the  n.  aisle  facing  the  door  by  which  you  enter 
it,  is  a  considerable  flight  of  steps,  forming  an  ascent  to  what  once  con¬ 
stituted  the  chapter-house,  but  which  is  now  used  as  a  School.  Under 
this  school  is  a  room  of  the  same  dimensions,  with  an  elegantly  groined  roof. 
The  side  aisles  retained  marks  of  groined  roofs,  windows  of  fine. proportion, 
and  other  decorations.  Bishop  Vaughan  s  Chapel  ranks  among  the  most 
perfect  specimens  of  the  florid  pointed  style  ;  the  roof  is  of  freestone  and 
in  fine  preservation.  At  the  e.  end  are  two  most  beautiful  niches  marking 
the  site  of  the  altar  between  them.  On  each  side  is  an  oblique  aperture 
through  the  wall  into  the  other  chapel,  perhaps  used  in  days  of  ignorance, 
for  the  purpose  of  confession.  In  the  n.  and  s.  entrances  were  finely- 
carved  open  screens.  This  prelate  was  interred  under  a  plain  marble  tomb; 
his  effigy  and  an  inscription  are  engraved  upon  a  brass  plate.  The  roof  of 
the  vestibule  to  this  chapel,  in  one  of  the  intersections  of  its  ribs,  contains  an 
escutcheon  bearing  the  arms  of  Sir  Rhys  ap  Thomas,  within  the  garter. 
Our  Lady's  Chapel,  completed  by  Bishop  David  Martin,  was  a  singular 

structure,  of  which  a  few  scattered  fragments  yet  remain  upon  the  floor. 

In  the  N.  aisle,  at  the  back  of  David’s  shrine,  observe  a  square  niche  be¬ 
tween  two  quatrefoil  openings  as  on  the  other  side,  having  arched  niches 
below.  On  the  s.  side  under  a  rich  stone  pavilion  highly  ornamented  with 
})innacled  buttresses,  is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  Bishop  David 

Martin  ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  a  recess.  Just  at  the  n.  entrance  of 

Vaughan’s  chapel  there  is  an  effigy  of  an  ecclesiastic,  much  weather-beaten, 
supposed  to  represent  Archdeacon  John  Hiot,  1419-  On  the  n.  side,  near 
the  end  .where  Sir  John  Wogan  founded  a  chantry,  under  two  sculptured 
arches,  are  the  effigies  of  a  crusader  and  priest.  On  the  n.  side  of  the 
s.  aisle,  at  the  entrance  into  the  chapel,  is  also  the  mutilated  figure  of  a 
Crusader,  and  lower  down  on  the  same  side,  is  the  effigy  of  a  priest.  On 
the  s.  side  of  this  aisle  there  are  three  canopied  monuments  ;  that  con- 


574 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


taining  the  figure  of  a  priest  may  be  to  the  memory  of  Giraldus.  An 
ancient  building  on  the  s.  side  of  the  cemetery  appears  to  have  served  as  a 
store-room  of  materials  for  the  use  of  the  church.  After  the  destruction 
of  the  school  and  library  over  the  w.  cloister,  the  upper  story  was  fitted  up 
and  supplied  its  place  for  two  centuries.  It  was  subsequently  converted 
into  a  chapter-house  and  audit-room  by  the  late  Archdeacon  Holcomhe, 
who,  from  an  ill-directed  zeal  for  innovation,  produced  painful  memorials 
of  his  total  deficiency  in  architectural  taste.  It  was  moreover  injudiciously 
placed,  and  intercepted  a  view  of  the  finest  side  of  the  church,  from  the 
tower  gate  of  the  palace.  (See  the  history  of  the  dilapidations  and  reno¬ 
vations  of  this  see  in  Fentons  Pembrokeshire,  pp.  91  — 108.)  On  Bishop 
Gower  this  intelligent  historian  bestows  the  highest  encomiums.  The  palaces 
and  manor  houses  belonging  to  this  see  were  as  follow:  —  St.  David’s, 
Trefdyn,  about  6  m.  from  the  former;  the  castles  of  Llawhaden,  and  Llam- 
phey,  all  in  Pembrokeshire ;  Llandygwy,  in  Cardiganshire  :  Llanddewi,  and 
the  small  manor  of  Bran  (manorium  exile),  since  called  Aber-bran-fach, 
situated  near  the  junction  of  the  river  Bran  and  Usk,  in  Brecnockshire ;  also 
the  granges  of  Castrum  Pontii,  corrupted  into  Punch  Castle,  in  Pembroke¬ 
shire.  The  splendour  of  St.  David’s  was  extinguished  by  the  rapacity  of 
Bishop  Barlow,  who  committed  every  kind  of  spoil  and  depredation,  stripped 
the  palace  and  castle  of  Llawhaden  of  their  leaden  roofs,  and  alienated  the 
lands.  He  also  endeavoured  to  remove  the  see  to  Carmarthen,  and  suc¬ 
ceeded  in  changing  the  residence  of  the  bishops  to  the  vicinity  of  that 
town,  leaving  not  one  of  the  ancient  palaces  habitable.  Dr.  Ferrar  com¬ 
menced  his  visitation  at  the  cathedral,  determined  to  resist  the  enormities 
and  irregularities  there  practised.  He  fell  a  victim  to  the  creatures  whose 
peculation  and  crimes  he  had  detected,  and  who  never  rested  till  they  de¬ 
posed  him  from  his  bishopric,  and  brought  him  a  martyr  to  the  stake. 
Bishop  Milborn,  in  order  to  turn  the  little  that  was  left  to  account,  pro¬ 
cured  a  licence  from  Archbishop  Abbott,  l6l6,  to  demolish  Llanhaden 
Castle.  The  hall,  chapel,  cellar,  kitchen,  and  bakehouse  of  St.  David’s 
palace  were  the  only  roofed  portions  that  remained.  Dr.  Richard  Davies, 
during  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  was  also  an  excessive  dilapidator,  and 
Bishop  Lucy  filled  his  cathedral  with  non-residents.  Bishop  Watson  en¬ 
deavoured  to  remedy  these  evils,  but  sunk  under  the  herculean  task. 
Among  the  benefactors  to  this  cathedral,  Robert  Tally  repaired  the  choir 
and  renovated  the  stalls.  Bishop  John  Morgan  tvecied.  the  bishop’s  throne; 
Dr.  Owen  Poole  constructed  the  roof  of  the  nave.  Bishop  Ottley  actively 
promoted  the  advancement  of  the  see,  and  archdeacon  Holcombe  was  not 
the  least  of  the  benefactors  of  this  ecclesiastical  establishment.  He  ar¬ 
ranged  the  present  interior  of  the  Precentor’s  House.  To  the  exterior  he 
added  a  new  facade  which  overlooks  the  gardens,  repaired  the  terraces, 
superadding  a  shrubbery  and  conservatory.  The  space  without  the  walls 
he  opened,  and  tastefully  laid  out  in  gardens.  He  also  renewed  the  ancient 
vivarium  or  fish-pond.  His  house  was  not  only  open  to  the  clergy  and  his 
neighbours,  but  to  every  decent  stranger.  The  antiquary  and  tourist  never 
had  to  regret  the  want  of  a  good  inn,  unless  they  possessed  that  churlishness 
which  could  decline  an  invitation  offered  with  a  fascinating  frankness. 
His  plans,  however,  did  not  succeed.  His  taste  and  judgment  were  not 
equal  to  his  passion  for  building,  as  appears  in  the  repairs  made  by  him  in 
the  exterior  of  the  w.  front  of  the  church,  which  do  not  harmonise  with 
the  ancient  style  of  the  cathedral.  He  conceived  a  plan  of  repairing  and 
decorating  the  whole,  as  well  as  of  restoring  St.  Mary’s  College.  He 
instituted  a  subscription  and  took  infinite  pains  in  promoting  it.  His  dc- 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


575 

meslic  affairs  in  the  mean  time  were  neglected,  large  expenses  incurred^ 
and  his  difficulties  accumulated.  The  fund  he  had  raised  became  ex¬ 
hausted,  subscriptions  stagnated,  and  his  misfortunes  crowded  so  rapidly 
upon  him,  that  he  w^as  compelled  to  quit  the  object  of  his  anxious  soli¬ 
citude,  where  he  had  fondly  flattered  himself  he  should  have  ended  his 
days.  With  this  removal  his  happiness  perished,  and  he  fell  a  victim  to 
domestic  misery,  to  mortifying  reflection,  and  disappointed  hope.  In 
Mr.  Archdeacon  Davies,  the  present  residentiary  of  St.  David’s,  a  bene¬ 
factor,  perhaps,  exists  no  way  inferior  to  any  of  his  predecessors  ;  such  dis¬ 
positions  added  to  a  handsome  private  fortune,  a  taste  for  literature  and 
polished  society,  have  proved  a  blessing  to  the  district.  The  fame  of  this 
celebrated  sanctuary  was  so  extraordinary  that  princes  came  barefooted  to 
its  shrine  ;  its  riches  were  so  great,  and  the  offerings  to  it  so  abundant, 
that  the  monks  are  said  to  have  divided  them  every  week.  It  was  once  the 
British  Loretto,  now  the  Palmyra  of  Saxon  antiquity  ! 

Nor  was  the  sanctity  of  St.  David’s  confined  to  the  limits  of  the  close  or 
city,  but  the  whole  parish,  called  Plwy  v-ty-Ddewi,  “  the  Parish  of  the 
House  of  David,”  was  thickly  strewed  with  chapels,  crosses,  or  sainted  wells. 
A  college,  founded  by  bishop  Houghton,  a.d.  1388,  is  situated  on  the  n.  side 
of  the  cathedral.  Its  architecture  is  Gothic,  and  the  remaining  shell  of 
the  chapel  bespeaks  its  former  magnificence.  The  modern  ecclesiastical 
establishment  of  St.  David’s  consists  of  the  bishop,  six  residentiary  canons, 
four  archdeacons,  and  several  minor  canons.  The  present  Bishop  is  the 
Right  Rev.  J.  Banks  Jenkinson,  whose  residence  is  at  Ahergwili,  near 
Carmarthen,  a  central  and  agreeable  district  of  his  Lordship’s  diocese. 
The  cathedral,  however,  and  its  appendages  are  kept  in  excellent  order, 
and  divine  service  is  performed  in  this  remote  corner,  with  all  the 
decorum  of  the  proudest  and  most  frequented  choirs.  Mr.  Manby,  who 
wrote  a  history  of  the  parish  and  an  account  of  its  antiquities,  says  of 
St.  David’s,  —  ‘‘  The  air  is  extremely  pure,  and  the  inhabitants  live  long. 
The  winters  are  not  so  cold  as  in  more  inland  parts.  This  results 
from  its  situation  lying  exposed  to  the  sea  from  every  point  but  from 
the  E.  The  soil,  aided  by  frequent  and  tempestuous  winds  is  dry,  especially 
in  winter,  which  renders  the  air  healthy,  insomuch  that  an  apothecary 
could  never  live  in  this  district  by  his  profession  ;  it  has  therefore  been 
found  necessary  to  attach  some  ecclesiastical  preferment  to  the  practice 
of  physic,  as  an  inducement  for  a  medical  professor  to  reside  there.  The 
trees  here  only  flourish  when  screened  from  the  Atlantic,  the  tops  of  which 
bend  from  the  blast,  and  hedges  yield  in  the  same  way  from  the  s.  w. 
Mr.  Manby’s  residence  was  about  1  m.  e.  of  St.  David’s,  near  Carnochaa  j 

a  situation,”  he  observes,  “  well  adapted  to  a  mind  softened  by  sorrow, 
and  a  heart  filled  with  anguish ;  affording  the  indulgence  of  seclusion,  yet 
the  greatest  variety  of  contrasted  and  enchanting  scenes.  In  the  front  of 
this  delightful  spot  is  St.  Bride’s  Bay.  On  the  s.  extremity  of  Carnochan 
farm  are  some  rich  traces  of  ancient  fortification.  The  present  plain  is 
60  yards  by  100,  rendered  impregnable  by  nature  and  art.  About  half 
its  width  is  crossed  by  an  impassable  ditch,  formed  by  nature,  of  con¬ 
siderable  breadth,  with  nearly  perpendicular  sides  to  the  level  of  the  sea  ; 
the  whole  flanked  by  four  parallel  ramparts  :  at  the  end  of  the  ditch,  under 
the  remainder  of  the  peninsula,  is  a  perforation  sufficiently  large  to  admit 
of  a  walk  through  the  rock.” 

Inn,  the  Red  Lion.  The  remains  of  Capel  Non  and  Copel  Stinan 
still  exist.  The  former  is  situated  upon  the  edge  of  the  cliffs  s.  of  the 
cathedral  almost  a  mile,  near  a  redundant  spring  arched  over.  The 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


576 

ruined  site  of  a  house  at  the  upper  end  of  the  field  leading  to  this 
chapelj  was  probably  inhabited  by  the  person  deputed  to  take  care  of  the 
spring.  St.  Justinian’s  Chapel^  the  work  it  is  said  of  Bishop  Vaughan, 
exhibits  remains  of  a  uniform  neat  building.  Here  those  who  frequented 
the  Island  of  Ramsey  usually  prayed  for  a  safe  passage.  Near  Porthclais, 
where  stood  Capel-y-Pistyll,  nothing  remains  but  a  sainted  Well.  Upon 
this  spot  tradition  says  David  was  born  and  baptized.  Near  Porthmawr 
and  the  Precentor’s  house  were  other  chapels ;  two  others  were  called  Hen¬ 
ry  nwents  ;  one  was  situated  by  Gwi'hyd,  the  other  near  Cwmwdig. 
t  ,The  united  labours  of  Mr.  Coxe  and  Mr.  Lemon  have  ascertained  that 
the  Via  Julia  terminated  here.  The  11th  of  Richard’s  Itinerary  and  the 
12th  and  14th  of  that  of  Antonine,  trace  it  across  the  Severn  through 
Caerwent  and  Caerleon.  From  Bath  it  advanced  by  Weston,  leaving  the 
church  to  the  n.,  and  instead  of  pursuing  the  road  at  the  end  of  the  village 
towards  Lansdown,  continued  straight  through  the  valley,  now  an  obscure 
path,  till  it  joined  the  road  to  N.  Stoke.  It  ascended  the  hill,  leaving 
Ralston  beacon  on  the  1.,  and  passing  under  the  British  post  on  a  brow, 
entered  the  village  of  North  Stoke,  where  it  is  named  the  Foss-road ;  but 
keeping  on  the  edge  of  the  hill,  and  leaving  the  village  to  the  r.,  the  Via 
Julia  descended  to  the  present  upper  turnpike-road,  with  which  it  united 
about  ^  m.  before  it  reached  Bitton,  where,  near  the  confluence  of  the 
Boyd  with  the  Avon,  occurred  the  station  Trajectus.  From  Bitton  it 
continued  with  the  present  upper  Bristol  turnpike  as  far  as  St.  George’s, 
near  Bristol ;  thence  it  crossed  the  flat  ground,  leaving  St.  Paul’s  about  a 
furlong  to  the  1.,  and  joined  the  road  to  Redlands,  about  a  furlong  from 
Stoke  Croft  turnpike.  After  passing  Redland  Court,  it  advanced  nearly  in 
the  line  of  a  small  road,  which  still  partly  exists,  leaving  the  present  main 
road  to  the  r.,  and  ascending  Durdham  Down,  it  extended  to  the  hill  near 
the  lime-kiln  house.  The  Roman  street,  now  crossing  the  road  from  Clif¬ 
ton  to  Redland,  near  the  tree  on  which  is  placed  a  direction -post,  is  toler¬ 
ably  conspicuous,  until  it  falls  into  the  turnpike  from  Shirehampton,  which 
it  crosses  also  at  the  very  spot  where  it  is  joined  by  the  road  from  Wells. 
From  this  place  it  still  continues  highly  raised,  and  visible  over  the 
remainder  of  Durdham  Down  ;  then  progressing  between  Durdham  lodge 
and  stable,  it  crosses  a  field  or  two,  leaving  another  house  called  Pigeon 
Pie ;  a  few  yards  to  the  1.  the  Via  Julia  continues  under  the  wall  of  Sneed 
Park,  ascends  the  hill,  and  gently  descending,  enters  the  ancient  station  of 
Abone  or  Sea-mills.  Paved  remains  of  the  road  still  exist,  passing  a  farm¬ 
house  of  Lord  de  Clifford.  It  then  runs  through  some  enclosures,  enters 
the  Shirehampton  turnpike,  near  the  termination  of  that  nobleman’s 
grounds  ;  and,  continuing  between  the  Inn  on  King’s  Weston  Hill  and 
Lord  de  Clifford’s  house,  descends  between  the  mansion  and  stables,  and 
passing  by  Madam  farm  till  it  joins  the  Severn.  Hence  proceeded  the 
passage  into  W ales ;  part  of  the  pavement  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
to  Caerwent  (Venta  Silurum)  existed  not  many  years  since.  The  place 
of  disembarkation  appears  to  have  been  Caldecot  Pill;  yet  no  causeway  is 
observable  between  this  place  and  Caerwent  before  the  Nevern  is  crossed 
in  the  vicinity  of  that  town. 

Mr.  Coxe  has  conjectured  that  from  Caldecot  Pill  the  Via  Julia  took  the 
direction  of  a  broadway  to  a  place  called  Tump;  he  says  its  course  is  lost 
in  Caldecot,  but  re-appears  beyond  the  church,  op.posite  the  ruins  of  the 
castle,  and  forms  the  by-road  to  Caerwent.  It  there  advances  over  a  rock, 
in  a  straight  line,  more  than  a  mile,  when  it  is  interrupted  by  several  lime¬ 
kilns.  From  this  place  to  the  Nevern  no  farther  traces  have  been  discovered. 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


577 

Between  tlie  brook  and  the  e.  gate^  vestiges  of  an  ancient  road  are  per¬ 
ceptible^  particularly  at  Cafs  Ash,  a  public-house  on  the  1.  of  the  high  road, 
2  m.  from  Caerleon  ;  hence  a  branch  led  to  Usk,  on  the  r.  bank  of  that 
river,  where  Mr.  Coxe  and  Mr.  Evans  traced  its  course.  From  the  w. 
gate  of  Caerleon,  it  extended  parallel  to  the  walls  ;  then  turned  at  right 
angles  to  the  w.,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  turned  at 
right  angles,  and  afterwards  continued  s.  for  a  short  distance.  On  this 
line  were  discovered  two  sepulchral  stones,  bearing  Roman  inscriptions. 
One  was  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Butler,  of  Caerleon.  The  Via  Julia  then 
resumed  a  w.  direction,  proceeded  under  the  encampment  of  the  Lodge, 
crossed  a  brook  near  some  old  walls,  and  suddenly  took  a  s.  course  ;  it 
then  continued  in  a  straight  line  for  about  a  mile,  passing  near  two  spots 
where  sepulchral  inscriptions  were  discovered,  and  lastly  formed  a  bend 
round  the  Pill.  (^Cooces  Monmouthshire,  In  trod.  21.) 

While  at  St.  David’s,  Mr.  Fenton  explored  the  neighbourhood  of  Porth- 
mawr  for  the  station  of  the  Roman  Menevia.  After  surveying  a  small 
circular  earth-work,  which  he  recollected  seeing  when  1  m.  from  the  town, 
and  passing  by  Trefarchan,  he  left  Penarthyr  to  the  1.,  and  entered  the 
sandy  tract  called  the  Burrows,  probably  where  Menapia  is  buried ;  but  he 
traversed  them  in  different  directions  down  to  Porthmawr,  without  success. 
The  traveller  may  now  cross  a  small  rill  to  the  promontory  called  St. 
David’s  Head,  a  wild  and  secluded  scene,  open  to  the  ocean,  and  extremely 
turbulent  from  the  confluence  of  islands  and  subaqueous  rocks.  Cam 
Lludw  presents  a  sublime  front  at  the  entrance.  At  the  foot  of  the  moun¬ 
tain  lies  the  celebrated  rocking-stone,  now  thrown  from  its  former  state  of 
equilibrium.  In  every  direction  occur  ancient  enclosures  of  various  shape 
and  dimension.  Pass  a  rampart  of  loose  stones  extending  across  the  ridge 
from  one  shore  to  the  other ;  a  little  farther  on  is  a  cromlech,  consisting  of 
a  flat  stone  resting  upon  another  perpendicular  one.  Passing  this,  come 
to  a  vast  earth-work  called  Clawdd-y-Milwyr,  the  Fence  of  the  Sol¬ 
diers,”  a  rampart  of  loose  stones  of  great  breadth  and  height.  Within 
is  a  curious  hollow  amidst  the  rude  shelter  afforded  by  the  broken  heights 
of  Old  Octopitarum  towards  the  sea,  and  some  smaller  points  of  rock 
towards  the  entrance.  On  the  land  side  are  seven  or  eight  circles,  formed 
by  a  line  of  rude  stones  with  an  entrance  to  each.  The  immediate  head 
here  projects  into  the  sea.  At  low  water,  from  a  ledge  of  rocks  at  its  base, 
gain  a  fine  view  of  this  tremendous  and  picturesque  cape.  Here  the  tra¬ 
veller  may  select  from  the  loose  grit  and  spar,  washed  from  the  interstices 
of  the  rock,  large  and  beautiful  crystals;  they  are  superior  to  those  of  St. 
Vincent’s  rocks,  and  capable  of  a  higher  polish  than  any  in  the  kingdom. 
Pursuing  this  rocky  descent,  there  is  on  the  way  a  remarkable  natural 
cavern  called  Ogov  Geivyr,  the  Cave  of  the  Goats,”  where  sheep  in 
winter  seek  shelter.  Returning,  Mr.  Fenton  searched  again  for  old  Me¬ 
napia  among  the  burrows,  in  vain.  In  shelter  of  a  land  rock  stands  the 
farm-house  Carawswdic  or  Crosswoodig,  perhaps  once  the  haunt  of 
Carausius  ;  thence  take  a  pleasing  round  by  Justinian’s  Chapel  to  view 
Ramsey,  the  islands,  and  Bride’s  Bay,  enlivened  by  coasters  at  anchor,  and 
other  vessels  under  weigh.  Turn  to  the  1.  and  after  passing  Rhosson,  leave 
Clegyr  Boia  to  the  r.,  the  capital  of  the  district  usurped  by  the  petty  Re- 
gulus,  from  whom  the  place  derives  its  name.  Boia’s  camp  overhung  the 
vale  through  which  the  Alan  winded,  after  washing  the  cathedral  walls. 
From  this  spot  the  pagan  tyrant  overlooked  the  anchorite’s  calm  retirement, 
with  invidious  malignity.  (See  p.  568.)  A  circular  earth-work  of  con¬ 
siderable  height  still  marks  the  passage  into  his  territories,  A  more 

p  p 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


578 

successful  usurper  named  landed  at  a  little  creek  called  from  him 

Forth- Leschiy  and  put  Boia  to  death.  Hence  to  Porthclais,  where  the 
river  Alun,  which  rises  at  Llandygige  in  the  same  parish^  falls  into  the  sea. 
A  pier  of  most  durable  masonry  was  constructed  here  at  an  early  period. 
This  is  the  nearest  accessible  creek  to  St.  David’s. 

Ramsey  Island  is  separated  from  the  coast  by  a  narrow  strait.  Visitors 
generally  take  a  boat  at  the  little  harbour  of  St.  David’s_,  and  cross  the 
sound  between  the  island  and  the  main  land ;  this  sound  is  now  1  m.  in 
width,  though  it  was  formerly  only  a  small  fretum.  The  isle  is  elevated, 
at  its  extremities  rise  two  mountains  of  great  height,  producing  a  very 
grand  effect.  From  a  cove  where  the  boat  is  usually  moored,  ascend  by  a 
flight  of  irregular  rocky  steps,  and  pass  over  a  grassy  slope  to  the  plain. 
Across  the  narrowest  part  of  the  island  between  the  two  mountains  is  the 
Organ,  a  place  so  called  from  the  noise  of  the  birds  which  frequent  these 
cliffs.  The  Peregrine  Falcon  has  long  been  an  inhabitant  of  this  island. 
Passing  over  a  heath,  to  the  n.  of  the  larger  mountain,  appears  the  Choir, 
a  lofty  amphitheatre  of  rocks,  precipitous,  and  thickly  inhabited  by  birds. 
Mr.  Fenton  ascended  the  extreme  points  of  the  great  mountain  at  the  s.  e. 
end  of  the  island,  which  terminate  in  carneddau.  Smaller  ones  upon  the 
lower  mountain  are  here  discernible.  Observe  on  the  sides  of  the  hill 
beneath  lines  of  ancient  inclosure,  an  interesting  view  of  the  whole 
island,  indented  into  bays.  The  Bishop  and  his  Clerks,  the  city  and 
cathedral  of  St.  David’s,  St.  David’s  Head,  the  Sound,  Bride’s  Bay,  and 
the  whole  county  of  Pembroke  to  tbe  Precelly  Hills,  are  clearly  seen  from 
this  lofty  eminence.  There  is  much  arable  and  pasture  land  upon  this 
island,  which  is  abundantly  supplied  with  fresh  water,  insomuch  that  the 
principal  stream  being  collected  into  a  dam,  turns  a  corn-mill.  Its  broadest 
part  is  about  1  m.,  its  mean  length  S  m.  in  extent.  The  herbage  is  very 
sweet :  Dutch  clover  predominates,  intermixed  with  thyme ;  hence  the 
cheese  made  here  is  considered  excellent.  On  the  s.  e.  corner  of  the  island 
appears  a  stratum  indicative  of  coal.  Rats  have  nearly  overpowered  the 
rabbits,  which  were  once  very  numerous ;  the  puffins  are  not  numerous. 
The  old  farm-house  is  now  in  ruins  ;  in  digging  the  foundation,  several 
stone  coffins  were  discovered.  Devanus,  with  Faganus,  was  sent  by  Eleu- 
therius  to  preach  the  gospel  in  Britain,  a.  d.  186,  and  after  his  pious  la¬ 
bours,  the  former  retired  here  to  end  his  days.  The  site  of  a  chapel,  once 
sacred  to  Devanus,  occurs  in  a  hollow  to  the  w.  of  the  house,  near  which 
ripples  a  small  stream.  Another  sacred  structure  dedicated  to  Justinian 
probably  was  situated  not  far  distant.  At  the  e.  end  of  the  island  of  Ram¬ 
sey,  slightly  detached,  are  two  isles,  Ynys-y-Byry,  “  the  Kite’s  Island  the 
other,  Ynys^y-Cantwr,  “  the  Precentor’s  Island,”  which  present  high  craggy 
cliffs,  produce  a  thick  matted  herbage,  and  are  stocked  with  rabbits,  puf¬ 
fins,  elygogs,  gulls,  and  other  sea-fowl.  There  are  seven  insulated  rocks 
called  the  Bishop  and  his  Clerks,  where  a  great  quantity  of  sea-birds  are 
annually  reared.  The  eggs  are  by  some  esteemed  a  luxury,  but  they  are 
chiefly  shipped  to  Bristol,  and  sold  for  the  purpose  of  clarifying  wines. 
Upon  one  of  these  rocks,  in  the  little  hollow  towards  the  centre,  there  is  a 
grove  of  the  Lavatera  arborea,  growing  very  luxuriantly.  The  rocks  called 
the  Smalls  are  nearer  the  coast  of  Pembrokeshire  than  any  other,  though 
distant  7  leagues,  and  may  therefore  be  noticed  here.  They  are  placed  at 
various  distances  from  each  other,  amounting  at  least  to  twenty ;  some 
appear  at  high  tide,  and  others  at  low  water  ;  other  hidden  rocks  extend 
in  length  from  s.  w.  to  n.  e.  more  than  2  m.,  and  in  breadth  more  than 
one ;  other  rocks  lie  at  the  distance  of  6  m.  from  the  Smalls,  called  Hats 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


579 

and  Barrels,  from  their  having  those  appearances  at  certain  times  of  the 
tide  ;  there  is  good  navigation  between.  To  obviate  the  disasters  arising 
from  this  dangerous  space  of  ocean,  "which  covered  the  coast  every  winter 
with  wrecks,  Mr.  John  Philips,  of  Liverpool,  a  native  of  Cardiganshire, 
projected  a  lighthouse,  in  the  year  1783,  the  execution  of  which  was  under¬ 
taken  by  Mr.  H.  Whitesides,  of  Liverpool,  who  continued  to  have  the 
management  and  superintendence  of  this  patriotic  work.  It  is  erected 
upon  a  rock,  which  in  fair  weather  is  about  5  ft.  above  high  water  ;  but 
in  storms  the  sea  runs  over  it,  between  the  eight  pillars  which  support 
the  lantern,  and  which  are  from  15  to  20  ft.  deep  ;  one  in  the  centre  is 
strengthened  by  oblique  stays,  and  was  finished  in  1775.  Some  consider¬ 
able  inconvenience  was  discovered  from  the  circumstance  of  three  of  these 
pillars  being  constructed  of  iron,  in  consequence  of  which  they  were  not 
affected  in  the  same  way  by  the  atmosphere.  In  the  winter  of  1776  it 
therefore  was  not  lighted.  In  1777?  Mr.  Whitesides  put  his  own  work  to 
the  test,  and  the  fabric  had  to  withstand  all  the  violence  that  winds  and 
waves  could  offer. 

A  dike  or  hollow  way  called  Foes  Gyrig,  or  Foes-y-Mynach,  stretches 
from  the  Irish  sea,  near  Penherry  to  Caerhudie  on  Bride’s  Bay,  and  is  still 
visible,  particularly  to  the  e.  of  the  farm  of  Mynydd-duu.  According  to  the 
Bodleian  MSS  referred  to  by  Mr.  Fenton,  Canon  Lewis,  writing  to  Browne 
Willis  in  171 9^  says,  Some  old  people  told  me  that  they  had  heard  a 
tradition  that  the  monks  belonging  to  St.  David’s  were  not  permitted  to  go 
beyond  this  boundary ;  but  I  rather  conjecture  that  the  land  to  the  s.  w.  of 
this  ditch,  in  which  St.  David’s  is  included,  had  some  extraordinary  pri¬ 
vileges  of  sanctuary.”  At  the  southern  end  of  the  intervening  sound,  is  a 
dangerous  reef  of  rocks,  denominated  ‘^‘^The  Bitches,”  and  in  the  middle  of  it 
is  a  rock,  much  dreaded,  called  The  Horse,”  which  is  covered  at  high  water. 
The  ruins  of  the  Church  and  part  of  the  Abbey  still  remain. 

To  Milford,  on  an  exploratory  route,  pass  by  a  mound  beyond  the  town, 
where  anciently  stood  a  cross.  Descend  into  a  small  valley  called  Clegyr, 
falling  from  the  moor  called  ihe  Ddyfrog ;  it  was  given  to  St.  David’s  by  Rhys 
ap  Tewdwr  mawr,  but  is  now  mostly  under  water.  Near  the  beach  of  a 
small  creek,  named  Caerbudie,  is  a  mill  turned  by  a  stream  which  there 
falls  into  the  sea.  Immense  fragments  of  a  curiously  granulated  and  co¬ 
loured  marble  cover  the  hill  just  above,  and  other  surrounding  places.  Upon 
a  projecting  point  of  the  cliffs  to  the  r.  of  this  vale  are  several  lines  of  in- 
trenchments,  perhaps  thrown  up  to  repel  the  piratical  Danes.  Hence  ad¬ 
vancing  2  m.  through  a  good  corn  country  to  Llunrhian,  where  was  founded 
an  hospitium  to  which  a  prebend  was  annexed.,  Here  pass  part  of  a  road 
constantly  irrigated  from  the  Nine  Wells.  Proceed  to  Llanuwas,  a  little 
to  the  r.,  the  demesne  of  Gilbert  Harries,  Esq.,  extending  from  the  vale  of 
the  Nine  Wells  to  the  estuary  of  Solfach.  This  is  a  beautiful  summer 
situation,  commanding  a  most  charming  view  of  the  islands  and  mountains 
in  the  rear  of  St.  David’s,  and  the  whole  extent  of  Bride ’s  Bay,  which  ap¬ 
pears  almost  encircled  by  land,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  vast  lake. 
Upon  a  peninsular  projection  is  an  encampment  formed  of  three  ramparts  of 
earth,  having  a  bow  towards  the  land  side,  and  a  covered  way,  sinking  down 
to  a  little  creek,  sheltered  by  this  headland.  Within  the  ramparts  is  an 
extensive  grassy  area,  enclosing  two  large  stones  in  the  centre.  In  the  space 
between  the  outer  vallum,  there  are  many  little  hollows,  formerly  the  sites  of 
huts.  On  the  declivity  of  a  hill  facing  the  creek,  there  is  the  foundation  of 
an  old  wall  or  pavement.  Descend  to  Solfach,  where  about  the  year  1800  a 
new  town  began  to  spring  up.  The  estuary  of  the  river  Solfach  forms  a 

p  p  2 


580 


ST.  DAVID’S, 


curious  inlet  between  two  high  hills.  This  clear  trout  stream  has  its  source 
in  Gwayn-y-barry,  and  running  by  Llanrhian^  receives  a  tributary  near 
Llechmeylir^  and  so  by  Garbed  and  Carveriog;  then  turnings,  after  a  course 
of  5  or  6  m.  discharges  itself  here  itno  the  ocean.  The  harbour  affords  ex¬ 
cellent  shelter  for  shippings  but  the  entrance  is  dangerous^  a  large  pyramidal 
rock,  which  divides  the  passage,  leaving  a  narrow  opening  on  each  side. 
About  30  vessels  belong  to  this  port,  from  20  to  250  tons.  There  is,  how¬ 
ever,  little  trade :  corn  in  winter  for  Bristol ;  limestone  and  culm  for  ma¬ 
nure,  and  firing  from  Milford  ;  these  form  its  principal  articles  of  traffic. 
Solfach  is  divided  into  an  upper  and  lower  town,  both  of  which  are  increas¬ 
ing,  yet  without  any  regard  to  plan  or  accommodation.  The  upper  town 
commands  a  most  delightful  view  of  Bride’s  Bay,  and  is  an  airy  healthy 
situation.  The  lower  town,  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a  street,  has  two 
lime-kilns  placed  in  the  centre.  The  principal  shops  and  warehouses  are 
situated  here.  Houses  in  the  valley  have  lately  increased  much ;  they 
have  beautiful  hanging  gardens  appended,  both  behind  and  in  front  next 
the  river.  The  fences  are  mostly  of  alder,  which  grows  here  with  great  lux- 
uriancy.  Few  places  have  a  more  picturesque  or  cheerful  appearance.  The 
hills  which  bound  this  interesting  valley  w'ere  formerly  well  wmoded,  as  the 
name  of  a  farm,  Gwar-y-coed,  upon  the  summit  of  one  of  them,  indicates. 
Higher  up  the  vale  are  seen  some  stunted  oaks,  the  remnant,  perhaps,  of  a 
numerous  family.  The  harbour  of  Solfach  is  bounded  by  a  curious  ridge, 
called  Gribin,  separating  it  from  the  inlet  of  Gwadan  on  the  opposite  side. 
It  rises  to  a  sharp  summit,  and  continues  of  the  same  breadth  for  a  mile, 
appearing  to  have  had  its  whole  extent  covered  with  encampments.  Cross 
the  river,  and  by  a  steep  ascent  over  the  Gribin  reach  the  little  vale  through 
which  the  small  brook  Gwadan  ripples,  abounding  with  trout.  A  little 
beyond,  to  the  r.  of  the  road,  lies  the  small  church  of  St.Elveis,  or  Llanail- 
fyw,  dedicated,  as  the  name  imports,  to  Ailfyw,  wdio  flourished  at  the  close  of 
the  5th  century.  The  whole  parish  consisting  only  of  2  or  3  farms. 
Upon  a  point  of  land  projecting  into  the  sea,  are  several  adits,  and  other 
appearances  of  works  formerly  carried  on  in  search  of  silver.  Upon  the  farm 
of  Llechfaen  in  this  parish  there  is  a  large  cromlech.  A  little  farther  reach 
Punch  or  Point  Castle,  or  Castrum  Pontii,  once  a  principal  grange  belong¬ 
ing  to  St.  David’s.  Close  to  the  house  is  a  tumulus,  or  exploratory  castelet. 
Leave  Broadway,  or  rather  Brawd-ty.  Near  the  church  is  an  ancient  man¬ 
sion  of  great  respectability,  but  now  deserted,  belonging  to  a  family  of  Jones, 
whose  ancestry  was  of  the  Herbert  lineage.  Llether,  another  respectable 
mansion,  at  a  short  distance,  is  also  deserted.  Descend  to  Newgale  beach, 
passing  the  manor  house  of  Newgale,  or,  correctly,  Newvill.  These  sands 
at  the  lowest  ebb  are  about  3  m.  in  extent,  having  a  beautifully  smooth  and 
firm  surface.  The  shore  is  composed  of  pebbles.  Tradition  relates  that  a  great 
part  of  the  immense  tract  of  Bride’s  Bay  was  dry  land ;  and  in  the  ancient 
deeds  of  the  house  of  Brawdy,  great  possessions  are  referred  to  in  this  di¬ 
rection,  now  no  longer  to  be  seen.  After  a  delightful  ride  along  the  sands, 
Mr.  Fenton  reached  the  height  of  the  surrounding  ground,  where  a  portion 
of  old  road  runs  parallel  with  the  new  for  several  yards,  probably  a  part  of 
that  which  extended  from  old  Menapia  along  the  coast  to  Dale  on  Milford 
H  aven.  Turn  to  the  1.  and  fall  in  with  the  inconsiderable  ruins  of  Caradog’s 
Chapel,  which,  with  that  of  Hilton,  was  subordinate  to  the  mother  church  of 
Roch.  Giraldus  and  Capgrave  have  said  much  of  the  sanctity  of  Caradog. 
This  pious  recluse  was  a  Welshman  of  a  respectable  family  in  Breconshire, 
who,  early  in  life,  entered  into  the  service  of  Rhj's,  Prince  of  S.  Wales,  and 
was  employed  to  keep  hounds,  but  he  neglected  them,  and  was  threatened 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


581 


with  loss  of  life  and  limb  :  this  induced  him  to  betake  himself  to  an  eremi¬ 
tical  life  near  Llandaff ;  he  then  withdrew  to  the  island  of  Ary  (probably 
Barry),  which,  being  infested  by  pirates,  he  quitted  it,  and  was  established  at 
St.  Ismael’s  in  Roos,  where  he  remained  till  his  death,  in  1124,  and  was  in¬ 
terred  in  St.  Andrew’s  chapel,  St.  David’s.  Visit  Roch  Castle,  which  commands 
a  most  extensive  view  by  sea  and  land.  The  first  possessor  of  this  fortress 
appears  to  have  been  Adam  de  Rupe,  the  founder  also  of  Pill  Priory.  Roch 
Castle  is  situated  on  the  s.w.  extremity  of  an  inland  rocky  ridge,  which  runs 
nearly  e.  and  w.  to  the  n.  of  the  church  of  St.  Mar'y  de  Rupe.  This  castle, 
at  a  distance  appears  an  inconsiderable  turret,  but,  if  more  closely  examined, 
is  larger  than  could  have  been  imagined.  Though  originally  built  for  defence, 
yet  its  freestone  window  cases,  spacious  fire-places  and  general  arrangement, 
shows  that  it  has  been  a  habitable  mansion.  It  had  S  stories,  each  con¬ 
sisting  of  one  large  apartment,  perhaps  divided  into  2  with  smaller  apart¬ 
ments  in  the  s.  projection,  having  elegantly  groined  roofs  and  handsome 
oriel  windows.  The  average  thickness  of  the  walls  was  5  ft.  10  in.  It 
was  inhabited  prior  to  the  reign  of  Henry  VI.,  about  which  time  the  great 
possessions  of  the  family  of  La  Roche,  lords  of  this  castle,  became  the  herit¬ 
age  of  two  co-heiresses  ;  one  of  whom  married  Lord  Ferrers,  the  other  Sir 
Thomas  Longeville,  who  soon  after  sold  the  property.  In  the  civil  wars  it 
was  garrisoned  for  the  king,  and  experienced  a  smart  siege  under  the  com¬ 
mand  of  Captain  Francis  Edwards  of  Summerhill.  This  castle  is  now  the 
property  of  J.  S.  Stokes,  Esq.  The  prospect  from  it  includes  the  islands  off 
St.  David’s,  and  those  bounding  Bride’s  Bay,  to  the  sea,  upon  the  e.  side  of 
Pembrokeshire,  lost  in  the  horizon  off  Gowerland.  The  Church  is  a  plain 
building,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  chancel,  separated  by  a  low  arch.  It  has 
one  wdndow  on  the  n.  side,  wrought  with  stone  tracery.  The  entrance  is  by 
a  porch,  having  a  roof  ribbed  with  stone,  arched  and  chequered ;  and  a 
very  ancient  doorway.  The  interior  has  pews  properly  ranged,  is  neat  and 
decent.  Upon  the  s.  wall  is  an  elegant  monument  of  artificial  stone,  repre¬ 
senting  a  female  figure  with  a  book  in  her  hand ;  it  was  erected  to  the  me¬ 
mory  of  the  Rev.  John  Grant,  rector  of  Nolton,  and  47  years  vicar  of  the 
church,  and  Elizabeth  his  wife  ;  parents  of  the  Rev.  Moses  Grant,  who 
succeeded  to  the  living.  The  new  settlers  in  VFales  distinguished  their 
churches  with  steeples  ;  Pill  Priory,  however,  forms  an  exception.  Quitting 
Roche  Castle  arrive  at  the  seat  of  its  proprietor.  Cyffern,  John  S.  Stokes, 
Esq.,  is  a  handsome  modern  mansion,  situated  on  rising  ground,  and  com¬ 
mands  views  of  Haverfordwest,  Picton-Castle,  and  some  reaches  of  Milford 
Haven.  To  the  w.  Bride’s  Bay  and  Roch  Castle.  Following  Newgale 
River  a  few  miles  up  the  vale,  under  naked  hills,  near  the  beach,  occurs 
Trecoed,  a  term  which  imports  that  the  faces  of  these  summits  were  once 
clothed.  This  river  formed  a  boundary  between  the  English  and  Welsh, 
between  Dewisland  and  Rhos.  It  rises  in  a  moor  near  Trethyog,  in  St. 
Edrin’s  parish,  passing  Castle  Vilia,  Tankardston,  and  Eweston,  receives  a 
tributary  from  the  e.  before  it  reaches  Roch  Mill,  and  falls  from  under 
Newgale  Bridge  into  the  sea. 

Ascend  the  interesting  elevation  of  Plumhstone  Mountain.  Having  at¬ 
tained  the  brow  of  this  eminence,  Mr.  Fenton  explored  a  considerable  rocky 
region  which  is  broken  into  several  irregular  masses;  among  these  he  disr 
covered  three  rocking  stones,  and  a  cromlech.  The  summit  of  this  mountain¬ 
ous  ridge  presents  a  pleasing  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  Plere  are  two 
circles,  the  outer  edge  consisting  of  a  belt  of  small  stones,  raised  like  the  turf 
ridges  round  the  Druidic  barrows  on  the  Wiltshire  downs.  Further  on  come 
to  a  small  explored  carnedd,  near  which  were  large  circles  of  stones.  To  the 

p  p  3 


582 


ST,  DAVID’S. 


s.  E.  of  this  spot  is  an  excavation  having  the  appearance  of  a  circus.  Beyond 
a  beacon^  covering  an  ancient  carnedd,  appears  a  very  large  earthen  tumulus_, 
and  further  on  occur  others  of  the  same  kind.  Descend  from  this  sunimit_, 
and  pursue  the  road  by  Roheston,  or  Robertson  West,  once  the  residence  of  a 
family  named  Robertson,  now  extinct.  In  the  vale  below  stand  the  village 
and  church  of  Camros  dedicated  to  Ismael,  once  a  suffragan  bishop  of 
Menavia.  He  was  the  founder  of  St.  Ishmael  near  Kidwelly,  also  of  Camros, 
Usmaston,  Rosemarket,  St.  Ishmael’s,  and  E,  Haroldson,  Pembrokshire. 
Opposite,  after  crossing  a  brook  which  falls  into  the  Cleddau,  come  to  the 
neat  mansion  of  Hugh  Webb  Bowen,  Esq.  prettily  embosomed  in  wood. 
Almost  in  front  of  the  house  stands  an  immense  mound,  now  converted  into 
a  shrubbery.  Regaining  the  principal  route  by  the  sea-coast,  pass  by 
Summerhill,  once  the  residence  of  a  respectable  branch  of  the  family  of  Ed¬ 
wards,  descended  from  Tudor  Trevor.  Mr.  Fenton  then  passed  Hilton,  to 
the  1.,  and  continued  his  route  by  the  coast,  sinking  down  to  the  little  creek 
of  Notion,  noted  for  a  purplish  stone  used  in  the  construction  of  tomb¬ 
stones,  troughs,  steps,  and  flags.  Culm  is  shipped  from  this  place  in  the 
summer  months.  Ascend  the  hill  on  the  s.  side  of  the  creek  towards  the 
church  of  Notion,  or  Knowelton ;  patron,  Madog.  The  glebe  house  bears 
great  indications  of  antiquity.  To  the  r.  of  the  entrance  into  the  church, 
on  the  outside,  facing  the  fence,  appears  the  mutilated  effigies  of  a  crusader, 
much  disflgured  with  whitewash.  It  has  been  removed  in  some  iconoclastic 
age  from  its  appropriate  niche,  and  every  record  destroyed.  A  family  named 
Grant,  from  Scotland,  in  the  time  of  the  unfortunate  Mary,  settled  in  the 
village  mansion,  whose  descendant  since  occupied  part  of  the  property.  On 
the  N.  side  of  the  church  was  the  old  manor-house.  The  property  of  Nolton 
was  vested  in  the  family  of  Crowe,  but  being  forfeited,  it  was  purchased 
by  the  City  of  London,  under  a  quit  rent  to  the  crown ;  Mr.  Cozens  then 
possessed  it ;  it  afterwards  devolved  to  Thomas  Kymer,  Esq.  who  sold  it  to 
Mr.  Barlowe,  of  Llawrenny.  In  this  parish  is  the  village  of  Druidston, 
near  which,  on  the  road  leading  froin  Fishguard  to  Dale,  occurs  an  inclosure 
of  nearly  one  acre,  called  Druidston  Chapet.  The  stones  which  composed 
this  circle  were  removed  in  1740.  The  traveller  who  wishes  to  make  Ha¬ 
verfordwest  a  station,  should  proceed  along  the  high  road  by  Pethajn  Bridge; 
but  if  inclined  to  examine  the  features  of  the  country  in  the  route  of  Mr. 
Fenton’s  exploratory  excursion,  he  will  advance  to  Harotdston,  situated  on 
the  edge  of  a  hill  forming  one  side  of  a  sequestered  dingle  planted  with  ash. 
At  Stember,  nor  far  distant,  there  is  a  grove  of  the  choicest  trees  intermixed 
with  evergreens.  A  little  further  occurs  a  stone  on  the  r.  of  the  road, 
without  inscription.  The  sands  of  Broad  Haven  have  become  a  favourite 
resort  for  bathing,  where  many  little  villas  are  scattered  about  for  that  pur¬ 
pose.  Being  7  m.  from  Haverfordwest,  many  of  the  fashionables  of  that 
place  pass  a  considerable  part  of  the  summer  here.  The  air  is  remarkably 
salubrious.  The  sea  receiving  no  influx  of  fresh  w'ater  is  excellently  adapted 
for  bathing  either  in  machines  on  the  fine  hard  sands,  or  in  the  retired 
coves  under  the  romantic  and  high  cliffs  of  Druidston.  Some  frequenters 
of  this  spot  have  yachts  to  sail  about  the  bay,  which  abounds  with  the  turbot, 
sole,  and  dorey.  Hence  to  Littte  Haven,  separated  by  a  narrow  rocky  pro¬ 
jection.  This  haven  affords  shelter  for  small  vessels  frequenting  it  in  sum¬ 
mer  to  ship  the  culm  raised  near  in  great  quantities.  Ascend  the  heights  of 
Howetstone  or  Harotdston,  On  a  point  of  land  stretching  into  the  valley 
which  runs  up  from  the  sea  towards  Walton  West,  is  a  strong  earthwork 
encampment,  well  adapted  to  repel  an  invading  enemy.  Higher  up  the 
valley,  in  the  same  chain,  is  Watwyns  Castle,  or  Castell  Guatchmai.  This 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


583 


Walwyn  is  said  to  have  been  the  cousin  of  Arthur_,  and  of  gigantic  stature.  A 
mound  of  earth  form  the  site  of  the  fortification.  Gualchmai^  driven  from 
Galway,  was  wrecked  upon  this  coast  and  here  buried.  This  spot  gives 
name  to  a  comot  in  the  hundred,  including  six  parishes  to  the  w.  Soon 
after  the  Restoration,  a  stranger  came  into  this  neighbourhood,  who  ap¬ 
peared  continually  dejected,  shunned  society,  and  evaded  every  inquiry. 
He  remained  day  and  night  in  the  church  porch.  The  neighbourhood 
carried  him  provisions.  His  manners  were  those  of  a  gentleman.  Charity, 
however,  relaxed  ;  he  was  neglected,  and,  at  length,  found  dead  in  the  porch. 
He  was  suspected  to  be  the  Wogan,  who  sat  as  one  of  Charles’s  judges. 
Further  on  occurs  Ramas,  or  Roman  s  Castle.  A  rich  and  well  cultivated 
country  introduces  the  church  of  Talbenny,  and  passing  Pearson,  once  the 
residence  of  a  family  of  the  name  of  Mears,  reach  07'landon,  formerly  called 
Humprey,  the  seat  of  J.  P.  Laugharne,  Esq.  Touch  at  Marloes,  a  long, 
straggling,  poor  village.  In  this  place  resided  Sir  William  de  Marloes,  a 
noble  foreigner.  The  inhabitants  live  chiefly  by  fishing  for  lobsters  and 
crabs.  Marloes  Mere  abounds  with  leeches.  In  winter  it  is  nearly  covered 
with  water,  but  in  summer  the  greater  part  is  dry,  and  affords  support  to 
the  cattle  of  the  village  householders,  of  whom  each  has  his  cow  and  garden. 
Their  manners  are  simple,  they  seldom  vary  their  mode  of  life,  or  go  far 
from  home.  Their  desires  seem  happily  contracted ;  they  are  industrious 
and  happy.  They  spin  hemp,  and  make  lobster  pots.  From  a  knoll  here, 
forget  not  to  notice  the  fine  assemblage  of  Bride’s  Bay,  St.  David’s  twin 
mountains,  and  the  islets  of  Ramsey,  Skomar,  Skokham,  Gatholm,  at  a 
great  distance  Gresholm,  and  faintly  in  the  horizon,  the  lighthouse  upon 
the  Smalls.  The  nearer  striking  objects  are  the  stack  of  St.  Bride’s,  and 
the  rocks  called  Towers.  To  the  r.  Musslewick,  formerly  the  residence  of 
a  Flemish  chieftain.  In  the  opposite  side  of  the  promontory  there  is  a 
small  cove  under  high  rocks,  called  Runaway’s  CU,  or  retreat.  Stop  at  Dale, 
where  is  a  handsome  mansion  called  The  Castle,  J.  L.  Phillips,  Esq.,  for¬ 
merly  the  property  of  John  Lloyd,  Esq.  of  Mabus,  in  Cardiganshire,  who 
married  the  heiress. 

Modern  Dale  is  ruinous  and  deserted  ;  in  the  time  of  De  Vale,  its  ancient 
lord,  it  was  a  borough,  having  a  castle,  market,  and  other  privileges.  The 
bay  and  roadstead  of  Dale  is  defended  from  all  winds  except  the  e.  and  s.  e. 
where  small  vessels  ride  in  two  or  three  fathoms  at  low  water.  Near  this 
place  the  Earl  of  Richmond,  afterwards  Henry  VII.,  landed  with  a  rein¬ 
forcement  from  France,  and  joined  by  Rhys  ap  Thomas  and  others,  they 
repaired  to  Bosworth  Field ;  to  this  assistance  he  was  chiefly  indebted  for 
the  crown  of  England.  These  foreign  levies  introduced  the  minor  plague 
in  the  year  1483,  which  continued  to  rage  for  nearly  two  months.  Its 
visits  were  repeated  in  1485,  1506,  151 7^  1528,  and  1591*  It  ai)peared 
in  the  summer  months,  and  its  force  varied.  In  1517  it  proved  fatal  in 
three  hours  from  its  first  seizure,  and  in  1528,  in  six  hours.  At  its  last  re¬ 
turn  it  carried  off  9^0  persons  in  Shrewsbury  alone.  It  affected  the  Eng¬ 
lish  only,  and  no  other  people,  not  even  the  Scots.  Cross  the  rising  ground 
to  the  s..  of  Dale  to  inspect  the  point  upon  which  the  blockhouse  stands; 
a  building  opposite,  and  similar  to  that  on  Nangle  Point.  The  ridge  is 
called  Gwaedig.  Proceed  along  the  coast  to  the  Lighthouses  upon  St, 
Ann  s  Head,  opened  in  1800  to  supersede  the  old  ones.  The  present  are 
lighted  on  the  principle  of  the  Argand  lamp  ;  the  light  of  the  former  was 
derived  from  coals.  The  low  lighthouse  is  15  ft.  high,  and  the  lantern  is 
150  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  high  lighthouse  is  42  ft.  high,  and 
elevated  195  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  is  the  nearest  continent 

p  p  4 


684 


ST.  DAVID’S. 


to  the  islets  of  SkoJeham  and  Skomar.  Their  names  indicate  a  Danish 
origin.  A  MS.  account  of  these  islands  was  lost  by  fire  in  the  Cottonian 
library,  which  renders  the  ancient  history  of  them  very  imperfect.  Skokham, 
the  farthest  from  land,  ond  about  5  m,  from  St.  Ann’s  Head,  is  the  pro¬ 
perty  of  John  Lloyd  Phillips,  Esq.  It  contains  200  a.  2  Rh,  2  p.  and  is  now 
rented  for  100/.  per  annum.  The  rabbits  form  a  principal  article  of  profit. 
It  contains  pasture  and  arable  land,  is  partly  inclosed,  and  well  supplied  with 
water.  There  is  a  dwelling-house  up  the  isle,  and  when  the  inhabitants 
communicate  with  the  main  land,  they  make  a  smoke.  Skomar  is  much 
larger,  containing  700  aores.  It  is  divided  from  the  main  land  by  the  fretum 
called  Jack’s  Sound.  It  has  next  to  the  strait,  an  almost  peninsular  point, 
called  by  old  Leland,  Little  Scalmey.  Like  Skokham,  Skomar,  consists  of 
arable  and  pasture  land,  abounds  with  rabbits,  and  is  well  supplied  with  ex¬ 
cellent  water.  Return  along  the  summit  of  the  cliffs  near  Dale,  agreeably 
fringed  with  wood  to  the  water’s  edge.  Pass  by  Crabhole,  an  ancient  mansion, 
stationed  upon  an  estuary,  once  inhabited  by  Philip  de  Crabhall,  whose 
daughter  married  Laugharne  of  St,  Bride’s ;  pass  also  Filhatch,  another 
venerable  house  once  belonging  to  a  family  of  that  name.  Cross  Mal~ 
lock  Bridge.  Mr.  Fenton  visited  St.  Bride’s,  formerly  the  residence  of  John 
de  St.  Bride’s,  whose  daughter  enriched  the  family  of  Laugharne,  who, 
leaving  Cornwall,  settled  in  Pembrokeshire.  Some  remains  of  the  mansion 
still  exist.  St.  Bride  s  Church,  dedicated  to  saint  Ffraid,  more  generally 
known  by  the  name  of  St.  Bridget  and  St.  Bride.  Not  less  than  eighteen 
churches  and  chapels  in  M^ales  are  consecrated  to  her  memory ;  Arch¬ 
bishop  Usher  places  the  date  of  her  birth  in  the  year  453.  This  benefice 
is  a  rectory  in  the  gift  of  the  family  of  Orlandon  ;  St.  Bride’s  and  Fobston 
alternately  :  the  structure  presents  a  very  dignified  appearance,  having  a 
tower  and  side  aisles.  On  the  exterior  is  an  effigy,  and  the  remains 
of  two  others.  In  the  little  creek  which  almost  touches  the  churchyard 
wall,  there  was  formerly  a  great  herring  fishery ;  a  small  chapel  was 
erected  for  the  use  of  the  mariners.  Many  stone  coffins  may  still  be  seen 
projecting  out  of  earth  partly  washed  away  by  the  sea.  Upon  the  slope  of 
the  ascent  to  the  w.  of  St.  Bride’s  Church,  stands  St.  Bride  s  Hill,  the  seat 
of  Charles  Phillips,  Esq.  the  proprietor  of  St.  Bride’s,  commanding  a  most 
charnjing  view  over  the  bay,  and  the  opposite  coast,  backed  and  skirted  by 
a  thrrdng  plantation,  open  to  a  beautiful  lawn  of  great  extent.  The  penin¬ 
sular  point  of  land  forming  one  side  of  the  fretum  is  converted  into 
a  deer  park,  resembling  Lord  Bulkeley’s,  at  Penmon,  Repassing  Mullock 
Bridge,  on  the  way  to  Milford,  leave  St-  Ishmael’s,  to  the  r.  pass  Butter  Hill, 
the  residence  of  Mr.  Roche,  supposed  to  have  been  a  grange  to  the  priory  of 
Pill.  On  the  way  to  Milford,  cross  an  estuary  which  runs  up  into  the  land 
as  far  almost  as  Hasguard,  a  place  once  possessed  by  a  noble  Norman,  or 
Flemish  advena.  The  Church  is  an  humble  structure,  containing  nothing 
remarkable  except  a  gravestone  to  Katharine  Barrett,  wife  of  Dr.  Rowland 
Meyrick,  bishop  of  Bangor,  1598.  Herbrandston,  with  its  old  church  and 
truncated  tower,  a  little  to  the  r.  does  not  merit  a  deviation  from  the  path. 
The  church  is  rude  and  simple,  the  chancel  of  which  contains  a  plain  stone, 
bearing  an  embossed  head  of  an  ecclesiastic,  without  inscription.  In  a 
small  creek  at  the  bottom  of  the  little  dingle  it  is  said  the  Flemings  first 
landed.  By  Neeston,  take  the  road  to  Gellyswick,  which  affords  a  fine 
view  of  the  haven’s  mouth,  lighthouses,  &c.  afterwards  pass  the  village  of 
Hubherston  and  church,  with  a  vaulted  roof  and  lofty  tower.  The  village 
is  interspersed  with  trees,  and  near  the  church  are  ruins  of  houses.  One  rn. 
further,  after  resuming  the  main  road,  pass  a  newly  erected  mansion  on  the 


ST.  DONAT’S. 


585 


1.  built  on  the  site  of  the  old  chapel  of  St.  Botolph,  by  Mr.  Le  Hunt^  from 
Ireland.  Descend  into  a  little  valley  at  the  extremity  of  Hubberston  Pill, 
near  1  m.  from  the  estuary,  where  suddenly  appear  the  small  remains  of 
Priory  Pill.  Little  besides  the  e.  side  of  part  of  the  tower  wall  is  stand¬ 
ing.  This  structure  was  cruciform,  and  the  tower  in  the  centre  supported 
by  arches,  of  which  only  one  remains.  Priory  Pill  was  founded  by  Adam 
de  Rupe,  and  now  forms  part  of  the  inheritance  of  the  Right  Hon.  Charles 
Greville,  as  representative  of  his  uncle,  the  late  Sir  William  Hamilton. 
Several  gravestones  were  discovered  in  an  adjoining  garden. 

To  Fishguard,  16  miles.  Barber;  Evans ;  Skrine.  To  Haverfordwest,  16  miles.  Malkin. 

Fishguard,  by  way  of  Y-Maen  Sigl,  20  miles.  Milford,  a  circuitous  route.  Fenton, 
Wyndham. 


ST.  DONAT’S. 

From  Dunraven,  .5  miles.  Barber:  Malkin.  ]  From  Cowbridge,  6  miles.  Wyndham:  Skrine; 

I  Warner. 

ST.  DONAT’S  is  a  parish  in  the  hundred  of  Ogmore,  Glamorganshire, 
situated  on  the  Bristol  Channel,  having  a  bold,  rocky,  and  dangerous  shore. 
In  1801,  the  population  amounted  to  198,  in  1831,  to  151  inhabitants. 
The  Castle  is  the  most  prominent  object,  situated  upon  a  gentle  eminence. 
According  to  Caradoc,  this  castle  was  apportioned  to  Sir  William  I’Es- 
terling,  alias  Stradling,  by  Fitzhamon  on  the  conquest  of  Glamorgan. 
The  Stradlings  held  it  6’84  years,  but  becoming  extinct,  the  estate  in  1738, 
passed  from  Sir  Edward  Stradling,  Bart.,  to  Mr.  Fontaine  Tyrwhitt,  and 
is  now  the  property  of  Thomas  Tyrwhitt  Drake,  Esq.,  grand-nephew  of 
that  gentleman.  This  fortress  was  defended  by  a  dike,  and  in  some  places 
by  a  triple  wall.  It  is  a  large  turreted  edifice,  but  void  of  taste.  Of  the 
original  structure  little  remains,  and  the  additions,  at  different  periods,  form 
an  irregular  whole.  This  object  is  so  much  intercepted  by  high  trees  as 
only  to  be  seen  advantageously  from  some  heights  in  the  adjoining  park  : 
on  one  of  them  stands  a  watch-tower,  a  lofty  building,  the  view  from 
which,  over  the  channel,  and  to  the  distant  Somerset  and  Devonshire  hills, 
presents  a  grand  variety  of  objects.  The  most  interesting  portions  of  this 
structure  are  the  principal  court,  which  is  polygonal,  and  disproportionately 
low.  It  is  ornamented  with  a  few  small  round  recesses  in  the  walls,  within 
which  are  the  busts  of  Roman  emperors  and  empresses,  which  seem  to  have 
been  painted  and  gilt.  The  state  apartments  are  also  much  ornamented, 
and  contain  several  specimens  of  heavy  wood-work,  in  the  style  of  the 
reigns  of  Elizabeth  and  James.  It  had  a  park  and  gardens  well  stocked 
with  deer,  facing  the  Severn.  These,  though  now  much  neglected,  exhibit 
a  specimen  of  the  formal  style  of  laying  out  grounds  in  the  17th  century, 
consisting  of  a  series  of  hanging  terraces,  separated  by  stone  walls,  and 
connected  by  flights  of  steps,  ascending  gradually  from  the  shore  to  the 
mansion.  Between  the  eminence  on  which  the  castle  stands  and  the  park, 
there  is  a  little  dell  planted  with  elms,  where  immediately  under  the  castle, 
is  a  small  Church  beautifully  situated  and  dedicated  to  Dunwyd,  a  British 
saint,  which  exhibits  many  indications  of  age  and  decay.  In  the  cemetery 
is  a  light  elegant  cross  of  elaborate  design  and  execution.  In  its  pos¬ 
thumous  vestibule  are  two  monuments.  One  represents  an  ecclesiastic,  the 
head  covered  with  a  cowl,  reclining  upon  a  cushion,  and  the  feet  resting  on 


586 


ST.  DONAT’S. 


two  globes^  with  the  following  inscription:  —  William  :  de  :  Rhchllo  r 
gyt  ;  ici  :  Deu  :  de  sa  :  alme  ;  eyt  :  merce  which  may  be  rendered 
thus:  —  “  William;  de  Richelieu  lies  interred  here,  the  Lord  have  mercy  on 
his  soul."  The  other  is  a  mummy-like  figure,  with  this  inscription  :  — ■ 
Nepatract :  statuetur,  liceturque  suhjacet."  At  the  e.  end  is  a  shrine 
and  chapel,  both  in  ruins,  and  behind  the  altar  is  a  figure  of  Prince  Richard 
Hopkins,  in  excellent  sculpture,  the  head  broken  off.  In  a  niche  of  the 
E.  wall,  are  the  broken  remains  of  a  statue  of  Howel  Dda.  Underneath, 
in  basso-relievo,  is  the  figure  of  a  woman  leaning  upon  her  hand.  Near 
this  is  a  small  figure  in  a  kneeling  posture  placed  on  a  niche,  under  which 
is  a  benitier  or  basin  for  holy  water.  In  a  small  sepulchral  chapel  be¬ 
longing  to  the  owner  of  the  castle,  some  monuments  of  the  Stradlings  and 
an  elegant  sarcophagus  of  white  marble,  to  the  memory  of  the  last  of  that 
name,  who  died  abroad.  There  are  also  several  paintings  of  the  15th  cen¬ 
tury,  commemorating  different  members  of  that  family.  A  charity  school 
here  is  benevolently  and  laudably  supported  by  the  lord  of  the  manor. 

The  coast  of  St.  Donat’s  is  low  and  tame,  but  about  a  league  further  to  the 
w.,  it  assumes  a  bold  character,  and  continues  for  several  miles,  being  remark¬ 
able  for  its  interesting  excavations.  Two  of  the  most  extraordinary  are 
called  The  Cave,  and  The  Wind  Hole.  The  former  is  a  long  passage  running 
parallel  to  the  shore,  with  an  arched  roof  supported  by  columns  of  rock, 
resembling  a  magnificent  piazza.  The  entrance  from  the  s.  is  grand,  but 
can  only  be  entered  at  low  water,  and  there  is  an  awful  gloom  and  stillness 
which  the  guide  takes  care  to  interrupt  by  thundering  reverberations  from 
his  voice.  The  Wind  Hole  is  a  much  larger  excavation,  extending  at 
right  angles  to  the  shore.  It  has  gained  its  name  from  some  apertures 
in  the  summit  of  the  cliff.  When  a  fresh  wind  blows  upon  the  shore,  it 
rushes  up  these  vents  with  great  violence.  There  is  a  third  called  Fair^ 
Cave,  which,  from  the  petrifactions  and  grotesque  shapes  which  the  strata 
assume,  is  considered  the  most  curious. 

On  the  road  to  Cowbridge  is  Llantwit  Major,  or  Llanilltyd  fhwr,  2  m.,, 
a  poor  village,  but  celebrated  in  British  history  as  having  been  the  seat  of 
a  college  founded  by  St  Illtyd,  in  the  year  508,  of  which  there  are  some 
remains.  In  1881,  the  population  of  the  parish  was  1076,  including  the 
villages  of  Boverton  and  Sigginston,  and  the  hamlets  ef  Frampton  Ham_, 
Llech  Mawr,  and  Pwll-yr-Llech.  The  Market  is  held  on  Friday,  and  the 
Fair,  June  28.  The  strata  is  blue  limestone,  covered  with  a  rich  clayey 
mould.  The  pasturage  is  fine,  and  the  tillage  land  perhaps  the  best  im 
S.  Wales.  The  Church  was  built  about  the  year  508.  Its  revenues  once' 
supported  a  considerable  monastery  and  seminary  of  learning.  Fitzhamon 
removed  the  establishment  to  Tewkesbury,  and  Henry  VIII.  annexed  its. 
revenues  to  the  see  of  Gloucester.  Boverton,  1  m.  distant,  was  probably 
the  Bovium  of  Antoninus,  through  which  the  Julia  Strata  passed  l^m. 
from  Boverton  :  by  the  sea-shore,  upon  the  lofty  cliffs  commanding  the 
Bristol  channel,  are  two  Roman  camps.  One  is  called  the  Castle  Ditches,. 
The  numerous  broad  and  direct  roads  towards  Llantwit  Major,  the  inter¬ 
esting  streets  and  lanes  which  still  exist,  the  uncommon  size  of  its  church 
and  yard,  and  the  number  of  human  skulls  dug  up  in  the  adjoining  gardens 
and  fields^  prove  it  to  have  been  a  place  of  great  population  and  eminence. 
The  Town  Hall  still  remains ;  the  ascent  is  by  two  flights  of  steps.  Over 
the  edifice  is  a  bell.  The  Gaol  has  been  demolished,  but  the  name  of 
Gallows-way  is  still  retained.  The  house  belonging  to  the  rectorial  tithes 
is  still  a  respectable  building,  having  hanging  gardens  descending  towards 
the  church.  At  Llantwit  are  two  contiguous  churches.  Below  the  old 


ST.  DONAT’S. 


587 


structure  is  an  ancient  building  called  the  Lady’s  Chapel,,  nearly  dilapidated. 
The  new  church  contains  three  aisles,,  and  has  a  handsome  altar-piece.  In 
the  middle  of  the  old  one  are  two  curious  monumental  stones  brought 
in  l*J30,  from  a  place  called  the  Great  House,  where  a  church  formerly 
stood.  In  the  vestry  is  a  gigantic  figure  of  Prince  Richard  Hopkins,  in  the 
costume  of  the  reign  of  Henry  V.  (See  ArchcBologia,  vol.  vi.  p.  22.  et  seg.) 
Near  this  statue  is  the  bust  of  a  child,  and  near  the  altar  a  figure  kneeling. 
In  the  yard  lies  part  of  an  ancient  cross,  and  another  stone  by  the  s.  door  of 
the  church.  In  1789^  Mr.  Edward  Williams  (the  self-taught  genius  and 
antiquary  of  Wales),  led  by  traditional  history,  undertook  the  raising  of  an 
immense  Monumental  Cross,  not  noticed  by  any  author,  which  he  erected 
against  the  wall  of  the  church  porch,  where  it  originally  stood.  His  own 
account  appears  in  Carlisle’s  Wales,  under  the  article  Llan  lUtyd  Fawr. 
This  stone  is  inscribed  —  In  nomine  Di  Summi  incipit  crux  Salvatoris 
quae  preparavit  Samsoni  Apati  pro  anima  sua  et  pro  anima  Juthahelo  rex 
fit  Artmali.  Tegat  crux  me.”  The  height  of  the  stone  is  9  ft.  ; 
breadth,  1  ft.  7  in.  at  the  top,  and  2  ft.  4  in.  at  the  bottom  ;  thickness,  1  ft. 
S  in.  Near  this  place  is  the  ancient  port  of  Colhugh,  formerly  Colhow,  in 
the  time  of  Henry  VIII.  The  foundation  of  the  pier,  and  the  piles  of 
wood  which  formed  its  defence  on  the  w.  side,  are  still  visible  at  low  water; 
but  the  sea  has  made  great  encroachments  on  this  side.  The  seminary  of 
Lantwit  flourished  so  much  under  the  protection  of  Illtyd,  that  its  pupils 
exceeded  2000,  who  occupied  400  houses  and  7  halls.  According  to  the 
Regisirum  Landumnse^  Illtyd,  or  Illtutus,  having  built  a  church  and  after¬ 
wards  a  mnnastery  at  Llantwit,  under  the  patronage  of  Meirchion,  a  chief¬ 
tain  of  Glamorgan,  opened  a  school  which  was  filled  with  a  large  number 
of  disciples.  Gildas,  the  historian,  David  of  Caerleon  and  St.  David’s ; 
Paulinus,  bishop  of  Leon  ;  Samson,  archbishop  of  Dol ;  Talhaiarn,  the 
bard;  and  the  famous  Taliesin,  are  said  to  have  received  their  education 
here.  But  as  some  of  those  whose  names  are  enumerated,  are  also  known 
to  have  studied  elsewhere,  it  may  be  inferred  that  it  was  not  an  unusual 
practice  to  migrate  from  one  college  to  another.  The  ruins  of  the  school- 
house  are  in  a  garden  on  the  n.  side  of  the  churchyard,  and  the  monastery, 
halls,  and  other  buildings  stood  upon  a  place  called  Hill  Head,  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  Tithe-barn.  The  chantry  house  is  nearly  opposite  to  the 
church-porch.  There  are  here  many  decent  shops,  three  or  four  bakers, 
three  schools,  and  other  remnants  of  its  former  consequence.  There  are 
vestiges  of  several  Roman  camps  in  this  vicinity.  The  gateway  of  the 
monastery  of  St.  Illtyd  is  still  standing.  In  the  churchyard  a  large  stone 
may  be  seen  with  three  several  inscriptions,  one  of  them  purporting  that 
it  was  the  fiross  of  Illtutus  and  Samson,  another  that  Samson  raised  the 
cross  for  his  soul,  and  the  third  that  one  Samuel  was  the  carver.  A  fac¬ 
simile  of  the  last  inscription  is  given  in  Turner’s  Vindication  of  the  Ancient 
British  Poems  ;  also  of  another  cross  which  has  but  one  inscription,  as 
given  above.,  This  is  longer  and  more  legible  than  those  on  its  neighbour, 
stating  that  it  was  prepared  by  Samson  for  his  soul,  and  for  the  souls  of 
Juthaelthe  king,  and  Arthmael.  The  old  parish-book  of  Llanmaes  records 
many  examples  of  extraordinary  longevity.  It  is  a  remark  founded  on 
experience,  that  those  parts  of  our  island  which  are  not  mountainous,  but 
diversified  by  moderate  inequalities,  having  sufficient  descents  from  rivers, 
brooks,  and  rain  water,  on  a  dry,  rocky  bottom,  with  a  healthy  and  con¬ 
siderably  fertile  soil,  where  vegetation  is  vigorous,  afford  the  most  numerous 
and  remarkable  eases  of  longevity.  Such  a  country  is  the  southern  part  or 
vale  of  Glamorgan  ;  open,  but  not  a  dead  flat.  To  the  n.  and  n.  e.  the  vale 


588 


ST.  DONAT’S. 


is'  well  sheltered  by  mountains^  from  sharp  winds.  To  the  s.  it  has  the  dry 
rocky  shores  of  the  Bristol  Channel,  without  any  fens.  Of  the  same 
character,  in  most  particulars,  are  the  counties  of  Flint  and  Denbigh  in 
N.  Wales.  Here  is  habitually  less  malt  liquor  drank  than  in  any  part  of  the 
kingdom,  and  less  animal  food  eaten.  Their  diet  consists  chiefly  of  good 
wheaten  bread,  cheese,  butter,  and  milk.  They  use  also  large  quantities  of 
vegetables,  and  many  kinds  of  food  prepared  from  apples,  gooseberries,  and 
other  fruits.  Flummery,  made  with  oat-meal,  is  used  almost  daily.  Their 
drink  is  in  general  water,  or  milk  and  water.  Herb  broth  is  much  used  by  the 
common  people.  It  may  be  considered  as  the  Welsh  soupe  maigre,  being 
water  thickened  somewhat  with  oatmeal,  to  which  they  add  large  quantities 
of  such  herbs  as  may  be  at  hand,  or  in  season.  They  make  it  savoury 
with  salt,  put  in  a  little  butter,  and  eat  bread  with  it.  In  Gower  they  eat 
chiefly  barley  bread.  All  these  habits  are  favourable  to  health  and  long 
life.”  (^B.  E.  Malkin.')  Great  Frampton,  1  m.  Llanvihangel,  2  m. 

Llandough,  or  Llandocha  Castle,  1  m.,  presents  a  beautiful  situation  on 
a  small  scale.  The  road  from  the  village  under  the  wood  to  Cowbbidgb 
by  the  mill,  whether  the  surrounding  foliage  be  made  vocal  by  the  night¬ 
ingales  in  the  spring,  or  recommended  to  the  eye  by  the  varied  tints  of 
autumn,  retains  very  superior  and  undiminished  attractions. 

Llanhletliian,  Llan  Bleddian,  or  St.  Quintin’ s  Castle,  1^  m.,  re¬ 
markable  for  the  size  of  its  trout  and  eels.  This  fortress  appears  to  have 
been  of  considerable  strength.  Its  leading  feature  is  a  ponderous  gateway, 
now  converted  into  a  barn.  This  castle  is  said  to  have  been  built  prior  to 
the  arrival  of  Fitz  Hamon.  It  fell  to  the  share  of  Sir  Robert  St.  Quintin, 
on  the  division  of  Glamorgan  ;  but  it  passed  from  his  descendants  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  III.,  and  is  now  the  residence  of  Hugh  Entwisle,  Esq. 
The  village  occupies  the  foot  and  side  of  a  steep  hill,  with  much  wood  in¬ 
terspersed  among  the  houses,  which  causes  it  to  be  remarkably  rural  and 
picturesque,  while  Sir  Robert  Llyncli  Blosses  little  villa  adds  to  its  gaiety. 
It  is  with  Llanblethian  that  Mr.  Malkin’s  Description  of  the  Scenery,  &c. 
of  S.  Wales”  ends,  a  work  containing  a  rich  accession  of  historical  and 
biographical  information,  which  every  one  curious  in  what  relates  to  this 
interesting  part  of  our  island,  should  possess.  To  Cowbridge,  1  m. 

To  Bridgend  pass  Marcross,  where  is  an  ancient  cromlech  called  the 
Old  Church,  the  inhabitants  believing  that  these  rude  structures  were  once 
places  of  worship.  There  are  other  specimens  of  antiquity  in  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood,  particularly  a  monastic  ruin,  with  immense  barns  and  granaries  ; 
and  an  ancient  armoury.  Monknash,  ^-m.  St.  Brides  Major,  on  the 
Ogmore,  celebrated  for  its  fine  salmon,  8  m.  From  this  place  may 
be  visited  Eanraven  Castle,  1  m.,  which  occupies  the  site  of  an  an¬ 
cient  fortress.  A  modern  structure  was  built  in  'the  pointed  style,  by 
F.  Wyndham,  Esq.,  afterwards  the  property  of  the  Hon.  H.  W.  Wyndham 
Quin,  who  married  Miss  Wyndham.  This  residence  is  situated  upon  a 
lofty  sea  promontory,  of  100  feet  in  height,  commanding  extensive  pro¬ 
spects.  Caradoc  says,  that  ‘‘  William  de  Londres,  lord  of  Ogmore,  won  the 
lordships  of  Kydwelhy  and  Carnewihion  in  Carmarthenshire  from  the 
Welsh,  and  gave  the  castle  and  manor  of  Dunraven  to  his  servant  Sir 
Arnold  Butler.”  After  continuing  long  in  the  possession  of  his  descendants, 
it  at  length  fell  to  the  Vaughans,  the  last  of  whom,  tradition  says,  was  so 
unprincipled  that  he  set  up  lights  and  employed  other  devices  to  mislead 
seamen,  so  that  their  vessels  might  be  wrecked  on  his  manor.  Tradition 
further  says,  that  his  crimes  did  not  escape  punishment,  for  that  three  of 
his  sons  were  drowned  in  one  day  in  the  following  manner.  Within  sight 


ST.  DONAT’S. 


589 

of  the  house  is  a  rock  called  the  Swiscar,  which  is  dry  only  at  low  water. 
To  this  place  two  of  Vaughan’s  sons  went  in  a  boat  for  diversion  but 
neglecting  to  fasten  their  vessel,  it  was  washed  away  as  the  tide  rose,  and 
they  were  left  in  this  state  to  the  horrors  of  death.  They  were  seen  from 
the  house,  but  as  no  other  vessel  was  in  the  neighbourhood  no  assistance 
could  be  lent.  During  the  confusion  of  those  in  the  house  an  infant  brother 
was  left  alone,  who  fell  into  a  vessel  of  whey  and  was  drowned  also.  These 
events  were  universally  regarded  as  judgments,  and  Mr.  Vaughan  was  so 
impressed  by  them,  that  he  became  disgusted  with  the  place  and  sold  it  im¬ 
mediately  to  an  ancestor  of  the  late  Thomas  Wyndham,  Esq.  of  Dunraven 
Castle. 

Ogmore  Castle  lies  nearly  2  m.  n.  w.  of  St.  Bride’s,  and  may  be  conve¬ 
niently  visited  on  the  road  to  Ewenny.  Its  remains  are  inconsiderable,  con¬ 
sisting  of  a  keep  and  some  outer  walls.  Caradoc  says  that  the  manor  and 
castle  of  Ogmore  were  given  to  William  de  Londres  by  Fitzhamon;  so 
that  its  foundation  may  be  dated  prior  to  the  Norman  conquest.  The 
manor  courts  are  still  held  in  a  thatched  hovel  near  it.  This  place  seems  to 
have  been  entire  when  Leland  wrote  his  ‘‘  Itinerary  he  calls  it  Ogor 
Castle.  At  a  short  distance  s.  e.  of  the  castle  are  several  pits  or  shallows 
filled  with  water,  said  to  have  sunk  spontaneously  ;  one  of  them  is  deemed 
unfathomable  ;  it  is  circular,  measuring  about  7  ft.  in  diameter.  Accord¬ 
ing  to  the  custom  of  the  times,  a  religious  institution  followed  the  acqui¬ 
sition  of  power.  William  de  Londres,  or  his  descendant  John,  h\n\.t  Ewenny 
Priory. 

Near  the  point  where  the  Ewenny  river  falls  into  the  Ogmore,  there  is  a 
curious  phenomenon.  The  land  above  this  spot  is  one  continued  down, 
■which  here  abruptly  falls  to  the  vale.  From  the  foot  of  this  down  issues 
a  large  body  of  water,  exceeding  in  quantity  that  into  which  it  flows.  It 
foams  and  boils  under  the  hill,  as  though  it  met  with  great  interruptions, 
and  forms  two  streams,  which  act  alternately  in  the  velocity  of  their  motions. 

Ewenny  Priory,  Colonel  Turberville,  2  m.,  from  Ogmore  Castle,  and 
about  the  same  distance  from  St.  Bride’s.  The  strong  embattled  walls  and 
towers  which  appear  among  the  ruins  of  this  priory,  indicate  that  it  was  not 
less  intended  as  a  place  of  security  than  of  religious  rites.  The  hall  of  the 
house  is  a  gloomy  apartment  in  which  are  several  racks,  which  seem  to 
have  been  the  depositaries  of  arms.  This  is  the  most  perfect  specimen  of 
the  ancient  monastery  to  be  met  with,  but  the  dilapidations  committing  on 
this  venerable  remnant  of  monastic  life  may  probably  rob  Glamorganshire  of 
its  proudest  antiquarian  honours,  A  well  planted  park  and  handsome  man¬ 
sion  are  immediately  under  the  eye,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  The  Church 
is  very  massive,  of  a  cruciform  shape,  in  which  unornamented  heavy  arches 
rest  on  short  bulky  columns  of  rude  workmanship.  The  columns,  plain 
capital,  and  circular  arches  denote  it  of  the  earliest  Norman  architecture. 
Every  admirer  of  Saxon  antiquity  will  be  highly  gratified  in  examining  the 
simple  and  original  architecture  of  this  church.  The  broken  pavement, 
formed  of  glazed  earthen  tiles,  marked  with  devices,  still  to  be  seen  in  some 
places,  is  ancient  and  curious.  Several  monuments  adorn  the  walls  of  the 
chancel,  now  engrossed  as  a  cemetery  for  the  principal  gentry  in  the  vicinity. 

The  simple  groined  roof  of  the  choir,  and  the  neglected  tombstone  of  its 
founder,  hearing  this  inscription  in  old  characters,  claim,’’ says  Sir  Richard 
Hoare,  particular  attention.’’ 

ICI  GIST  MORICE  DE  LUNDRES  LE  FVNDUR  DEU  LI  RENDE  SUN  LABUR.  AM. 
In  the  s.  transept  is  an  ancient  altar-tomb,  supporting  the  mutilated  effigy 


ST.  DONAT’S. 


590 

of  a  knight  in  armour,  bearing  a  shield  on  his  left  arm.  The  personage  to 
whom  this  sepulchral  memorial  was  erected,  has  never  yet  been  clearly 
ascertained,  and  has  been  vulgularly  attributed  by  the  whole  tribe  of  modern 
tourists  to  Peganus  de  Tuberville,  lord  of  Coity.  A  happy  gleam  of  sun¬ 
shine,  a  pail  of  water,  and  a  broom,  enabled  me  to  ascertain  the  true  original 
of  this  effigy,  which  was  intended  probably  to  commemorate  a  friend  and 
follower  of  Morice  de  Lundres  : 

SIRE  ROGER  DE  REMI.  GIST  ISCI. 

DEU  DE  SON  ALME  EIT  MERCI,  AM. 

The  orthography  and  character  of  the  letters  fix  the  date  of  this  monument 
to  the  same  period  with  the  preceding.  The  church  contains  many  other 
more  modern  inscriptions  to  the  memory  of  the  Came  family,  who  were 
possessors  of  this  estate,  one  of  which,  more  stately  than  the  rest,  bears  a 
long  inscription  in  antiquated  verse  upon  its  base,  and  in  front  these  lines  : 

“  Here  lys  Ewenny’s  hope,  Ewenny’s  pride, 

In  him  both  flourish’d,  and  in  him  both  dyd. 

Death  having  seis’d  him,  linger’d  loath  to  be, 

The  ruine  of  tliis  worthy  family.” 

There  is  a  square  camp  upon  the  hill  above  this  place. 

Ewenny  is  an  excellent  angling  station,  but  permission  must  be  obtained 
from  the  gallant  proprietor,  who  it  is  said  never  refuses  it  to  the  fair  angler. 
Bridgend,  m. 

To  Oowbridge,  6  miles.  Barber  ;  Malkin.  I  To  Pyle  Inn,  11  miles.  Skrine  j  Warner. 

Dunraven  Castle,  5  miles.  Wyndham  j  Evans,  j 


SWANSEA. 


From  Bristol,  by  water.  Barber. 

Llandeilo-fawr,  23  miles.  Barber. 

An  excursion  to  Llandeilo  Fawr,  and  Llan¬ 
dovery.  Malkin. 


From  Neath,  8  m.  Skrine  ;  Evans  j  Donovan;  ' 
Carmarthen,  26  miles.  Warner. 

Britton  Ferry,  5  miles.  Wyndham. 

Back  from  Penrice  Castle,  12  miles.  Skrine. 


SWANSEA  (anciently  Aber-tawy),  Eglwys  Fair,  is  an  improving, 
irregularly  built  borough  town.  It  forms  the  metropolis  of  Glamor¬ 
ganshire,  and  its  interior  appearance  excels  that  of  most  Welsh  bo¬ 
roughs.  It  is  governed  by  a  portreeve,  recorder,  12  aldermen,  2  com¬ 
mon  attorneys  or  chamberlains,  a  town  clerk,  two  serjeants  at  mace, 
and  an  unlimited  number  of  burgesses.  Together  with  6  other  con- 
tributary  boroughs,  it  returns  one  member  to  parliament.  Its  length,, 
including  the  suburbs,  is  nearly  1^  m. ;  in  breadth  it  is  not  more  than 
\  m.  The  streets  are  numerous,  lighted  with  gas,  and  contain  a  large 
proportion  of  weU-built  houses  occupied  by  opulent  individuals.  It  is 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  river  Tawe  with  the  Bristol  channel,  and 
near  the  centre  of  a  beautiful  bay.  In  1821,  the  population  amounted  to 
10,255,  in  1831  to  13,6’94  inhabitants,  now  about  20,000.  A  mail-coach 
to  London,  through  Bristol  and  Bath,  passes  through  to  Milford  every 
morning.  Packets  sail  regularly  to  Dublin,  Waterford,  and  Cork,  and 
twice  or  thrice  a  week  to  Ilfracombe;  fares,  for  the  latter,  10^.  6d.  To 
Bristol,  four  times  a  week,  125.  The  Collegian  Coach  leaves  the  Castle 
Hotel  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  returning  the  alternate 
days.  A  covered  car  to  Carmarthen  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays.  The 


SWANSEA. 


591 

Lllanelly  Mail  leaves  tlie  Castle  Hotel  every  evening.  The  Markets  are 
held  on  Wednesday  and  Saturday  in  an  extensive  and  ^ivell  constructed 
range  of  building  for  the  purpose,  occupying  a  space  of  about  4  acres  of  land. 
Fish,  flesh,  and  fow^l  are  here  to  be  had  at  a  much  more  reasonable  cost  than 
in  any  market  in  England.  The  fairs  are  held  on  the  second  Saturday  in  May, 
July  2.,  Aug.  15.,  Oct.  8.  Swansea  has  long  been  a  winter  residence  of 
the  neighbouring  gentry,  and  a  favourite  resort  in  the  summer  for  bathing  ; 
but  its  increasing  opulence  arises  principally  from  the  prosperity  of  its 
manufactures  and  commerce.  It  is  in  the  district  of  Glamorgan  called 
Gower.  Its  local  advantages  are  great,  and  its  natural  facilities  for 
trade  and  commerce  not  often  exceeded  ;  its  situation  is  favourable  to  com¬ 
mercial  success,  and  the  population  it  contains  may  be  said,  with  truth,  to 
consist  of  “"tens  of  thousands.”  Yet  this  place  is  about  twenty  years 
behind  hand  even  with  itself,  if  we  compare  what  it  is  with  what  it  ought 
to  be,  or  what  it  easily  could  be  rendered.  All  this  seems  to  result  chiefly 
from  want  of  unanimity,  and  partly  for  want  of  capital.  It  must  be  ob¬ 
vious  that  the  former,  if  persevered  in,  is  not  very  likely  to  offer  encou¬ 
ragement  to  the  introduction  of  the  latter  requisite,  which  cannot  well  be 
successful  under  the  present  suicidal  system  which  is  pursued  in  public 
affairs.  The  inhabitants  might  possess  most  easily  a  capital  dry  harbour, 
excellent  docks,  a  well  kept  pier,  and  a  flourishing  revenue.  They  have  a 
ruinous  pier-wall,  they  possess  a  paucity  of  funds,  and  a  dangerous 
harbour  lies  under  their  town.  They  should  command,  by  means  of 
bridges,  a  short  and  desirable  route,  by  which  to  communicate  with  their 
neighbours.  They  have  nothing  of  the  sort,  except  indeed  the  worst  con¬ 
trived  and  ill-conducted  expedient, — a  ferry,  over  which  neither  man, 
beast,  nor  carriage  can  pass  with  safety  or  comfort,  is  to  be  considered  equi¬ 
valent  to  a  far  better  and  very  easily  acquired  mode  of  transit.  In  all  these 
and  many  other  desiderata,  want  of  unanimity  may  be  traced  as  ever  busy  to 
frustrate  and  mar  enterprise,  and  to  avert  success.”  {^Cambrian.')  A  very  flou¬ 
rishing  pottery  has  long  been  carried  on  here,  on  the  plan  of  Mr.  Wedgwood; 
also  an  iron  foundery,  roperies,  extensive  breweries,  and  much  ship-build¬ 
ing.  The  Copper  Works  lie  at  l^m.  distance  from  the  town,  so  that  the 
atmosphere  does  not  suffer  by  immediate  impregnation.  At  one  of  them  it 
is  said  that  not  less  than  40,000  tons  of  coal  are  consumed  annually.  The 
largest  sale  of  copper  ore  that  ever  took  place  in  the  kingdom  recently 
occurred  at  Swansea,  the  whole  realising  the  sum  of  50,66l/.  10^.  This 
is  the  most  considerable  seaport  in  Wales,  and  employs  a  great  extent  of 
shipping,  but  has  no  foreign  trade.  It  supplies  Cornwall  with  coals,  and 
receives  thence  copper  ore.  The  Harbour  of  Swansea  is  formed  by  two 
stone  piers  extending  upwards  of  6OO  yards  into  the  sea,  leaving  a  space 
of  75  yards  between  them  for  the  entrance.  A  Lighthouse  and  Watch 
Tower  are  erected  on  the  West  Pier.  The  Bay  of  Swansea  is  a  delightful 
object,  whether  viewed  towards  the  sea,  or  from  a  boat  at  the  entrance. 
It  has  often  been  compared  to  that  of  Naples,  affording  abundant  gra¬ 
tification  to  those  who  are  fond  of  aquatic  excursions.  The  Quay  or  Strand 
forms  a  very  busy  scene.  The  Burrows  (which  command  a  pleasing 
view  of  the  ocean,  pier,  and  shipping),  form  the  fashionable  pro¬ 
menade,  and  contain  some  good  lodging-houses.  Sailing  matches  and 

horse  races  are  here  held  annually.  This  is  the  native  place  of  the  ce¬ 
lebrated  Beau  Nash  of  Bath.  The  principal  feature  of  the  Castle  is  a 
massive  quadrangular  tower,  remarkable  for  a  range  of  light  circular 
arches  surrounding  the  top  and  supporting  a  parapet,  which  forms  a  con¬ 
nection  with  turrets  at  each  angle.  This  parapet  affords  a  pleasing  bird’s 


SWANSEA. 


592 

eye  view  of  the  town  and  surrounding  country.  The  tenantable  parts  are 
converted  into  a  poor-house  and  gaol^  principally  appropriated  to  the  con¬ 
finement  of  debtors.  This  Gothic  structure  has  been  so  far  metamorphosed 
in  its  application  to  these  purposes  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  trace  the 
original  plan  of  the  building  ;  but  the  large  apartment  used  for  Romish 
worship  has  been  either  the  baronial  hall  or  the  chapel.  The  lofty  tower 
affords  a  grand  panoramic  view  of  the  town  and  its  environs.  This  castle 
was  built  A.  D.  1099:>  by  Henry  Beaumont_,  earl  of  TV^arwick,  a  Norman 
leader  who  conquered  Gowerland  (a  tract  of  country  bounded  by  the 
Neath  and  Lwchwr  rivers)  from  the  Welsh;  but  it  was  soon  after  besieged 
by  Gryffydd  ap  Rhys  ap  Theodore_,  a  native  chief,  and  a  great  part  of  the 
outbuildings  destroyed.  It  is  now  the  property  of  the  duke  of  Beaufort, 
lord  paramount  of  Gower.  The  parish  Church  of  Swansea,  dedicated  to 
St.  Mary,  and  capable  of  accommodating  1300  persons,  contains  some  very 
ancient  monuments.  That  of  St.  Thomas  is  extinct.  Another  church  in 
the  town  consecrated  to  St.  John,  and  containing  800  sittings,  was  formerly 
a  chapel  belonging  to  the  knights  of  Jerusalem  ;  the  parish  attached  to 
this  sacred  edifice  lies  1  m.  beyond  the  town,  and  extends  only  1  m.  further. 
Here  are  still  the  remains  of  the  suppressed  hospital  of  St.  David’s,  founded 
by  Eleanor,  only  daughter  and  heiress  of  William  de  Bruce,  who  married 
John  Lord  Mountrath.  A  New  Church  is  in  contemplation,  of  which  the 
endowment  is  secured  and  the  expenses  of  the  repairs  will  be  defrayed  from 
the  rent  of  pews.  It  is  to  contain  1200  sittings,  400  of  which  are  to  be 
appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  poor.  The  only  mineral  spring  in  the  county 
of  Glamorgan  is  at  Swansea.  It  has  an  acid  styptic  taste  like  alum,  though 
the  predominant  salt  is  vitriolic.  South  Wales  can  now  vie  with  England 
in  a  Scientific  Institution,  patronised  by  her  most  gracious  Majesty  our 
youthful  queen.  The  favourable  auspices  under  which  it  has  been  es¬ 
tablished  cannot  but  operate  most  favourably  in  advancing  the  interests 
and  general  utility  of  the  society.  Arrangements  are  now  contemplated 
for  the  erection  of  a  structure  answerable  to  the  importance  of  the  in¬ 
stitution.  In  addition  to  its  great  usefulness,  it  will  unquestionably  present 
the  finest  specimen  of  Greek  architecture  in  all  Wales.  Among  the  scien¬ 
tific  and  literary  institutions  of  this  borough  town,  the  Cymreigyddion 
Society  holds  a  conspicuous  place ;  patron,  W.  Williams,  Esq.,  of  Aber- 
pergwn.  Addresses  in  Welsh  and  English  are  delivered,  and  the  various 
prizes  for  the  successful  compositions  in  poetry  and  prose  are  awarded 
according  to  the  decision  of  the  judges.  A  religious  Tract  Society  is 
established.  The  Swansea  and  Neath  Horticultural  Society  bestows  prize  me¬ 
dals  on  the  successful  competitors.  The  progress  of  a  Clothing  Society  for 
Swansea  and  its  neighbourhood  is  an  evidence  of  the  growing  prudence  of 
the  working  classes.  The  Bathing  House  lies  ^  m.  from  the  town,  upon 
the  beach.  As  a  watering  place,  Swansea  has  the  advantage  of  a  fine  level 
sandy  shore.  The  vicinity  affords  a  great  number  of  agreeable  walks  and 
rides,  though  the  town,  owing  to  the  neglect  of  the  public  authorities,  is  in 
winter  by  no  means  so  cleanly  as  it  formerly  was.  Here  are  also  pumps 
for  partial  bathing,  and  shower-baths.  A  newspaper  is  printed  here  by 
Messrs.  Murray  and  Rees,  called  The  Cambrian,  and  General  Weekly 
Advertiser  for  the  Principality  of  Wales,”  which  has  the  largest  circulation 
among  the  M^elsh  papers.  A  Swansea  Guide  is  published.  There  are 
two  circulating  libraries  here ;  that  of  the  Misses  Jenkins,  called  the 
Glamorgan  Library,”  contains  many  historical  and  philosophical  works. 
Daily  papers  and  monthly  publications  may  also  be  seen.  The  Theatre  is 
small  but  commodious. 


SWANSEA. 


593 

Inns  :  The  Mackworth  Arms,  Ivy  Bush,  Wheat  Sheaf,  Old  Ivy  Bush. 
At  the  George  in  Wind  Street,  are  a  good  and  well  frequented  ball-court 
and  billiard  table,  and  at  the  Fountain  and  Red  Lion,  Strand,  are  others. 
Market  on  Saturday. 

The  interesting  Vale  of  Towy  might  be  conveniently  made  an  object 
in  a  route  from  this  place,  the  best  accommodations  being  afforded  at 
Trecastle.  There  is  no  angling  in  this  river  lower  than  the  neighbourhood 
of  Lanciwg,  the  copper  and  coal  works  having  poisoned  the  waters  to  a 
considerable  distance  from  its  mouth. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  town  is  a  place  whimsically  called  The 
W^orld’s  End,”  commanding  the  beautiful  scenery  of  Mount  Fleasant^ 
where  are  some  excellent  houses,  built  for  the  accommodation  of  strangers. 
The  pleasure-ground  consists  of  a  garden  of  about  four  acres,  laid  out  in 
grass  parterres,  shrubberies,  plantations  of  forest  trees,  with  an  extent  of 
800  yards  of  gravel  walks.  A  grand  esplanade,  facing  the  s.,  40  ft.  wide, 
the  length  250  yards,  commanding  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  bay,  piers, 
and  shipping.  On  the  e.,  n.,  and  w.  sides,  gravelled  avenues  of  more  than 
1100  yards,  include  eight  acres  of  ground,  and  a  walk  of  nearly  1-^  m. 
A  little  beyond  is  Heathjield  Lodge.)  occupied  by  C.  R.  Jones,  Esq.,  a 
handsome  villa,  surrounded  by  pleasure  grounds,  whence  a  most  attractive 
view  of  the  adjacent  country  may  be  obtained. 

From  the  united  researches  of  M.  de  laBeche  and  Mr.  Logan,  we  learn 
that  this  neighbourhood,  for  a  considerable  distance  around  us,  at  a  remote 
geological  epoch,  but  subsequent  to  the  deposition  of  the  new  red  sandstone, 
formed  the  bottom  of  a  great  lake  or  strait ;  that  a  powerful  current  from 
the  N.  rolled  down,  from  land  that  existed  there,  great  quantities  of  shingle, 
and  spread  it  over  the  bosom  of  the  deep  ;  that  ages  passed  away,  and  the 
waters  again  became  dry  land,  the  profound  abyss  rose  up  into  mountains, 
and  bore  its  pebbles  with  it,  where  they  still  rest,  although  from  the  highest 
summits  the  smaller  have  again  been  washed  down,  leaving  only  the  larger 
and  more  immoveable  to  record  their  former  entire  and  deep  submersion. 
During  the  progress  of  elevation,  portions  of  this  sea,  it  would  seem,  had 
been  enclosed,  and  formed  lakes  ;  these  at  length  burst  their  barriers,  their 
beds  were  furrowed  deeply  by  river  channels,  and  they  likewise  became 
hills  ;  there  they  now  stand,  records,  read  by  the  geologist,  of  the  dark 
ages  of  far  remote  antiquity,  when  no  human  eye  beheld  the  mighty 
changes,  and  no  historian  lived  to  relate  them. 

But  a  still  more  extraordinary  fact  has  been  brought  to  light  by  Mr. 
Logan,  which  must  be  regarded  in  the  light  of  a  geological  discovery  of 
more  than  local  interest.  He  has  ascertained  that  the  upper  beds  of  these 
carboniferous  strata  abound  in  rolled  pebbles  of  coal  itself,  implying  the 
prior  existence  of  land,  containing  beds  of  perfectly  formed  coal.  If  the 
enormous  periods  of  time,  which  all  geologists  admit  to  be  requisite  for  the 
conversion  of  vegetable  matter  into  coal,  are  granted,  these  pebbles  can 
scarcely  be  referred  to  the  earlier  beds,  even  allowing  for  the  hitherto  un¬ 
suspected  thickness  which  Ave  believe  Mr.  Logan  has  ascertained  that  the 
carboniferous  group  in  this  basin  exhibits  ;  for  indejiendent  of  the  fact  he 
mentions,  that  the  earlier  stratification  presents  no  disturbance  that  would 
admit  of  its  fragments  being  embedded  in  the  upper  seams,  we  believe  there 
occur  no  instances  in  which  water-worn  portions  of  one  formation  are 
found  embedded  in  that  immediately  succeeding  in  the  geological  series. 
The  most  remarkable  conglomerate  rocks  are  some  of  the  upper  beds  of 
the  Silurian  group,  the  old  red  sandstone,  and  the  earlier  beds  of  the  new 
red  sandstone  ;  now,  in  the  first,  we  find  the  pebbles  to  consist  of  the 

Q  Q 


SVYANSEA. 


594 

quartzose  matter  of  the  granite  and  other  oldest  rocks,  while  the  detritus  of 
the  mountain  limestone,  with  its  characteristic  fossils,  do  not  appear  in  the 
subsequent  formations  until  we  come  to  the  red  marl  beds  overlying  the 
carboniferous  series. 

In  the  last  Report  of  the  Swansea  Institution  is  contained  a  succinct 
account  of  Mr.  Troughton’s  patent  process  for  arresting  the  issue  of 
mephitic  vapours  in  the  smelting  of  copper ;  some  notice  of  Mr.  L.  LI. 
Dillwyn’s  researches  in  fossil  phytology  ;  an  account  of  two  newly  dis¬ 
covered  bone  caverns  in  Gower ;  an  allusion  to  a  unique  collection  of 
mineral  substances  formed  in  the  flues  and  furnaces  of  the  copper-works  ; 
a  description,  with  three  engravings,  of  an  elaborate  machine  for  measuring 
the  direction  and  force  of  the  wind ;  a  notice  of  the  application  of  photo¬ 
graphy  to  the  self-registration  of  meteorological  instruments,  and  remarks 
on  the  action  of  the  tide  gauge. 

“  Within  the  last  three  years,  Mr.  George  Crane,  of  the  Yniscedwyn  Iron 
Works,  has  discovered  that,  by  using  heated  air,  he  can  melt  iron  ores  with 
anthracite  coal.  In  order  to  form  some  idea  of  its  value  and  national 
importance,  it  need  only  be  stated  that  it  has  added  to  the  available 
resources  of  this  kingdom,  for  the  purposes  of  its  iron  trade,  a  district  60 
to  70  m.  long,  by  6  to  8  miles  broad,  abounding  with  the  anthracite  or 
carbon  coal,  lime,  and  ironstone  ;  it  has  already  trebled  the  value  of  this 
extensive  mineral  property.  The  third  annual  report  of  the  Swansea 
Philosophical  Literary  Institution,  for  the  year  1837,  in  allusion  to  Mr. 
Crane’s  discovery,  states  :  —  ^  The  benefits  likely  to  arise  from  this  valu¬ 
able  discovery  will  be  most  extensively  felt,  but  it  will  no  where  be  found 
of  more  immense  importance  than  in  our  own  neighbourhood  ;  for  it  will 
be  the  means  of  opening  to  commercial  enterprise  a  portion  of  our  extensive 
coal  fields,  which,  though  abounding  in  the  metal  pronounced  the  most 
useful  to  man,  has  hitherto  been  excluded  from  the  influence  of  that 
ingenuity  by’  which  he  moulds  it  to  his  will.’ 

Mr.  Crane  has  three  furnaces  in  blast,  all  blown  with  heated  air,  and  is 
about  to  erect  two  more.  To  clearly  show  the  superior  strength  of  iron 
made  with  anthracite  coal  alone,  a  pig  was  broken  by  one  of  his  men 
for  inspection.  The  man  took  the  first  he  could  lay  hold  of,  and 
placing  it  flat  on  the  ground,  struck  it  53  blows  with  a  sledge-hammer, 
about  20lbs.  to  22  lbs.  weight,  but  was  not  able  to  break  it.  The  strongest 
pigs  of  iron  made  in  the  ordinary  way,  may  be  broken  by  from  three  to 
six  blows.  This  iron  of  Mr.  Crane’s  is  so  rich  and  soft,  as  well  as  strong, 
that  it  flattened,  or  rather  plated,  under  the  action  of  the  hammer,  and 
shelled  off*  in  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  shilling.  Before  the  pig  could  be 
broken,  it  had  to  be  cut  with  a  chisel. 

Mr,  Crane  has  two  furnaces  at  work,  in  which  he  uses  three  fourths  of 
bituminous  and  one  fourth  of  anthracite  coal ;  and  it  is  really  astonishing 
to  see  the  anthracite  coal  coming  out  of  these  furnaces  quite  uninjured,  even 
after  having  been  exposed  for  five  days  to  the  intense  heat  required  for  the 
smelting  of  iron. 

“  Mr.  Crane  has  yet  only  one  small  cupola  furnace,  in  wdiich  he  uses  an¬ 
thracite  exclusively  ;  for  firing  the  other  two  he  uses,  as  before  remarked, 
three  fourths  of  bituminous  and  one  fourth  of  anthracite  coal;  and  by  consum¬ 
ing  anthracite  in  this  comparatively  small  proportion,  he  efl’ects  a  saving  of 
12^,  to  13^.  per  ton  in  the  cost  of  making  iron,  and  very  materially  improves 
its  quality.  His  furnaces  also  yield  a  better  produce,  in  proportions  of  35 
to  50  per  cent.  His  small  cupola  furnace,  No,  2.,  from  which,  when 
using  cold  air  and  coke,  he  could  obtain  only  20  to  22  tons  of  cast  iron  per 


SWANSEA. 


595 

week^  by  being  fired  with  anthracite  coal  alone_,  and  blown  with  hotair,  has 
produced,  on  an  average  of  many  months,  35  tons  per  week,  and  the  larger 
furnaces,  in  which  he  uses  the  proportions  before  stated,  have  increased  ; 
the  No.  1.  from  34  to  35  tons  up  to  45  to  49  tons,  and  the  No.  3  from  50 
to  55,  up  to  65  to  80  tons  per  week.  All  his  furnaces  are  very  small,  and 
his  blowing  machinery  not  so  good  as  it  ought  to  be  ;  hence  his  very  limited 
produce. 

The  quality  of  this  iron  is  very  highly  spoken  of.  Mr.  Crane  has  re¬ 
ceived  assurances  from  several  parties  who  had  used  it  for  various  purposes, 
that,  ‘  for  bars  it  had  given  great  satisfaction  ;  for  foundery  work  it  was 
admirable  ;  ’  that  in  re-melting  it  was  found  very  fluid,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  very  strong,’  —  a  union  of  qualities  most  desirable,  but  rarely  to  be 
met  with. 

With  respect  to  the  economy  of  this  new  process,  Mr.  Crane  has,  on  the 
average  of  several  months,  produced  the  ton  of  cast  iron  with  the  before 
unheard-of  small  quantity  of  27  cwt.  of  coal,  and  he  entertains  the  greatest 
confidence  that  he  will  be  able  to  reduce  the  quantity  still  further,  —  say  to 
22  cwt.  His  main  bed  of  anthracite  coal  is  18  ft.  thick. 

The  maturing  of  this  most  important  plan  has  cost  much  time,  money, 
and  anxiety,  and  it  is  to.be  hoped  he  will  be  most  amply  repaid  for  his 
valuable  services. 

This  new  feature  in  the  iron  trade  soon  attracted  the  attention  of  capi¬ 
talists,  both  here  and  in  London  ;  and  the  counties  of  Pembroke,  Car¬ 
marthen,  and  the  w.  part  of  Glamorgan,  give  fair  promise  soon,  at  least,  to 
rival  Monmouthshire,  and  the  e.  part  of  Glamorgan,  in  the  manufacture  of 
iron.  I  will  first  enumerate  the  works  already  in  operation  in  the  Swansea 
and  Neath  districts,  and  then  inform  you  of  the  extent  to  which  new 
establishments  are  being  erected,  and  others  contemplated. 

^^The  Maesteg  Iron  Works  are  worked  by  Messrs.  Robert  Smith  and  Co., 
with  bituminous  coal  and  hot  hair  ;  they  have  two  furnaces  at  work,  pro¬ 
ducing  from  180  to  200  tons  per  w^eek  of  cast  iron.  A  part  of  this  they 
make  into  malleable  iron,  but  I  am  not  aware  of  the  exact  quantity  ;  — 
perhaps  about  6O  to  70  tons  per  week. 

The  Ystal-y-fera  works,  near  Swansea,  are  also  being  erected  by  a 
Liverpool  company,  at  the  head  of  which  stands  Sir  Thomas  Brancker. 
This  company  is  building  four  furnaces,  and  they  intend  four  more. 
Their  fuel  is  all  of  anthracite  kind. 

The  Gwendraeth  is  a  new  work  about  to  be  established  by  a  London 
company  near  Swansea.  Fourteen  new  iron  works,  of  from  two  to  eight  fur¬ 
naces  each,  are  erecting,  and  about  to  be  erected,  in  the  anthracite  district, 
the  existence  of  which  will  be  solely  attributable  to  Mr.  Crane’s  invaluable 
discovery. 

The  aggregate  number  of  furnaces  in  blast  in  S.  Wales  is  122  ;  out  of 
blast  7  j  building  31  ;  and  contemplated  9I  i  and  allowing  for  twelve  works 
likely  to  beerected  soon,  only  five  furnaces  each,  or  6O  in  all;  we  thus  find  that 
probably  within  the  next  five  years  the  number  of  furnaces  in  S.  W ales  will 
be  doubled,  and  number  244.  Allowing  an  average  produce  of  80  tons 
per  week  for  each  furnace,  we  have  the  astounding  quantity  of  1,015,040, 
or,  in  round  numbers,  1,000,000  tons  of  cast-iron  produced  in  this  district 
alone  —  a  quantity  equal  to  that  produced  last  year  (1838)  in  the  whole  of 
Great  Britain.’"  (^Cambrian.') 

A  large  tract  of  country  n.  of  Swansea  abounds  with  coal,  copper,  and 
iron  works,  the  operations  of  which  are  much  facilitated  by  a  canal  pass¬ 
ing  among  them.  The  dismal  gloom  of  the  manufactories  hanging  over 

Q  Q  2 


SWANSEA. 


596 

the  river  Towy  k  pleasingly  constrasted  by  the  whitened  walls  of  their 
appendant  villages^  emerging  from  the  dark  sides  of  the  hills  which  rise 
above  the  river.  Conspicuous  above  the  other  resorts  of  the  manufacturers 
is  Morriston,  a  neat  newly  created  village.  On  the  e.  side  of  the  river, 
within  the  parish  of  St.  Mary,  is  a  small  hamlet,  called  St.  Thomas.  The 
remains  of  the  chapel  are  scarcely  discernible,  being  almost  entirely  washed 
away.  The  Rhyddings,  li  m.,  is  a  pleasing  marine  residence,  and  com¬ 
mands  an  extensive  view  of  the  bay.  Some  travellers  have  asserted  that 
this  spot  is  famed  for  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  shells,  which  account 
is  incorrect,  there  being  none.  In  Langford  Bay^  between  Caswell  Bay 
and  the  Mumbles,  there  are  many. 

Oystermouth  Castle,  which  commands  a  delightful  prospect  of  the  sur¬ 
rounding  country,  is  situated  upon  an  eminence  near  Swansea  on  the  coast 
of  Glamorganshire.  The  principal  walls  of  this  ruin  are  not  much  injured 
by  time,  and  most  of  the  apartments  may  .'be  readily  distinguished ;  the 
general  figure  is  polygonal,  and  the  ramparts  are  conspicuously  lofty,  but 
unflanked  by  towers,  except  at  the  entrance ;  a  profusion  of  ivy  over¬ 
spreading  the  ruin  rather  conceals  than  adorns  it.  The  entrance  is  at  the 
s.  E.  end,  which  forms  a  projection  and  breaks  the  square.  On  a  level 
with  the  wall  on  the  e.  side  is  the  keep,  whence  the  prospect  is  extremely 
fine.  Oystermouth  church.  All  Saints,  is  a  fine  object  from  many  situa¬ 
tions,  as  well  as  the  village  of  the  same  name.  The  latter  lying  along  the 
bottom  of  a  high  limestone  rock  loses  all  sight  of  the  sun  for  upwards  of 
three  months  in  the  year.  This  structure  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected 
by  the  Norman  Beaumonts,  who  conquered  Gowerland,  and  has  almost  ever 
since  remained  the  property  of  that  family.  This  rural  village  is  chiefly 
inhabited  by  fishermen.  A  tramroad  is  formed  from  Swansea.  A  car 
capable  of  containing  I6  people,  drawn  by  one  horse  on  this  road,  generally 
goes  twice  a  day.  Not  far  from  the  village  of  Oystermouth,  the  bay  ter¬ 
minates  in  the  Mumbles  Head,  a  large  circular  mass  of  rock  gradually 
rising  to  a  point,  and  crowned  with  a  lighthouse  built  in  1794.  Conti¬ 
guous,  and  along  the  coast,  is  some  fine  rock  scenery,  particularly  in  the 
beautiful  bay  of  Caswell. 

From  some  high  eminences  behind  Oystermouth,  an  extensive  view  is 
obtained  over  the  peninsula  of  Gower,  and  the  two  noble  bays  of  Swansea 
and  Carmarthen,  which  its  projection  divides  :  the  general  aspect  of  the 
peninsula  is  wild  and  dreary.  Not  far  distant,  near  the  little  bay  of  Ox- 
wich,  are  the  ruins  of  Penarth  Castle,  a  fortress  built  soon  after  the  con¬ 
quest  of  Gowerland  ;  the  access  to  it  is  extremely  difficult,  arising  from 
the  deep  loose  sand  banks  which  surround  it.  Two  round  tow^ers  and 
some  fragments  of  an  embattled  wall  are  all  tliat  remain.  On  the  oppo¬ 
site  side  of  the  bay  stands  the  picturesque  rain  of  Penrice  Castle,  Sir 
C.  Cole,  so  called  after  the  family  of  Penrice,  of  Norman  extrac¬ 
tion,  w’ho  settled  here  in  the  reign  of  Edward  I.  Its  ruins  appear  to 
have  been  magnificent.  This  fortress  is  within  the  precincts  of  an  exten¬ 
sive  domain  belonging  to  the  Talbot  family,  and  occupies  a  great  portion 
of  the  peninsula.  Upon  this  domain  is  erected  an  elegant  villa,  with  all 
the  appendant  beauties  of  wood  and  lawn,  lake  and  promenade.  The 
whole  demesne  seems  as  if  it  were  recently  the  complete  improvement  of  a 
wilderness,  having  a  bold  marine  view  through  the  valley  eastw^ard.  The 
unexpected  appearance  of  flowers  in  great  variety  (planted  in  the  crevices 
of  the  rocks,  or  between  segments  of  them,  where  nothing  so  luxuriant 
could  be  supposed  to  vegetate,)  surprises  the  spectator  in  various  places. 
After  passing  the  shrubbery,  to  enter  the  garden,  a  heap  of  large  unpo- 


SWANSEA. 


597 

lished  stones,  thrown  together  in  a  kind  of  regular  confusion,  composes 
the  covering  and  sides  of  the  door.  Out  of  the  river  or  lake,  (which  de¬ 
scends  into  the  sea,  and  was  lately  formed  out  of  the  lap  of  the  valley, 
abounding  with  fish  from  the  ocean,)  several  little  islands  are  seen  to 
advantage.  In  June  the  large  thorn  near  the  stables,  which  is  then  in 
flower,  has  a  fine  effect  contrasted  wdth  the  verdant  scenery  around.  A 
very  ancient  marble  monument  or  tomb  of  one  of  the  emperors,  decorated 
with  images  of  the  Graces  and  Mercury,  finely  sculptured,  is  placed  under 
the  shade  of  one  of  the  trees,  in  the  avenue  to  the  garden  on  the  r.  hand 
side.  The  late  Thomas  Mansel  Talbot,  Esq.,  erected  a  neat,  spacious  brick 
building  for  the  accommodation  of  the  incumbent  of  the  living  of  Oxwich, 
the  church  of  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  Illtyd.  It  is  delightfully  situated 
on  the  shore  near  the  sea,  commanding  a  prospect  of  its  extensive  surface. 
Indeed  he  w^as  author  of  most  of  the  improvements  upon  the  estate. 
About  tV  m.  from  the  house  is  a  marshy  piece  of  ground,  called  Oxwich 
Marshy  (lying  in  the  parishes  of  Oxwich,  Pen  Rhys,  and  Nicholaston,) 
formerly  overflowed  by  the  sea,  at  high  water,  but  lately  recovered  by 
means  of  a  mud  sea-wall,  at  the  expense  of  Mr.  Talbot.  A  large  ditch  is  also 
cut  round  the  n.  side,  for  the  purpose  of  drainage,  which  empties  itself  by 
means  of  iron  flood  gates,  into  the  pill  communicating  with  the  ocean  ;  and 
a  further  precaution  is  taken  by  carrying  a  wide  channel  through  the 
marsh.  This  ground,  consisting  of  nearly  200  acres,  is  now  become  an 
excellent  pasture  for  cattle  and  horses  j  before  the  sea  was  excluded,  it  w'as 
remarkably  healthy  for  sheep,  but  now  if  suffered  to  feed  there  they  are 
said  to  be  invariably  infested  with  the  rot. 

About  3  m.  N,  of  Penrice,  upon  a  mountain  called  Cwm  Bryn,  near 
Llanrhidian,  (i.  e.  the  Church  of  Rhidian,’^  a  member  of  the  college  of 
Cenydd,  at  Llangenydd,  in  Gower,)  is  a  tabular  monument  or  cromlech, 
called  Arthur’’ s  Stone  :  it  consists  of  a  huge  flat  block,  supposed  to  weigh 
near  20  tons,  supported  upon  six  or  seven  others  about  5  ft.  in  height;  the 
smaller  stones  are  placed  in  a  circle.  Beneath,  a  spring  ebhs  and  flow's  with 
the  tide,  celebrated  as  a  Ffynnon-Fair,  or  Lady’s  Well.  A  few  miles 
farther,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Llwchwr,  is  Castell  Llwchwr,  described  as  a 
place  of  considerable  strength,  and  as  being  still  entire  and  partially  in¬ 
habited.  The  difficulty  of  access,  and  its  detached  situation,  prevent  most 
travellers  from  visiting  it;  similar  reasons  also  prevent  them  from  examining 
a  curiosity  at  Wormhead  Point,  a  bold  promontory  jutting  far  into  the 
sea,  and  divided  from  the  main  land  at  high  water  by  the  sea  overflowing  its 
low  isthmus.  Near  the  extremity  is  a  cleft  in  the  ground,  into  w'hich,  if 
dust  or  sand  be  thrown,  it  will  be  returned  back  into  the  air ;  and  a  person 
applying  his  ear  to  the  crevice,  will  hear  a  deep  noise,  like  the  blowing  of 
a  large  pair  of  bellow's ;  this  effect  is  attributed  to  the  concussions  of  the 
waves  of  the  sea  atnong  the  caverns  of  the  cliff*. 

Penrice,  or  Pen  Rhys,  is  a  remarkably  neat  well  sheltered  village,  situate 
on  Oxwich  Bay,  in  the  Bristol  Channel.  In  1801  the  population  of  this 
parish  was  289-  The  church,  dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  is  a  perpetual  curacy, 
not  in  charge  ;  the  patron  Lord  Vernon.  It  stands  close  to  the  village,  is  re¬ 
markably  neat,  and  at  a  distance  is  a  pleasing  object.  Blessings  on  those  old 
grey  fabrics  that  stand  on  many  a  hill,  as  in  many  a  lowly  hollow,  all  over  this 
beloved  country  ;  for  as  much  as  we  reprobate  that  system  of  private  or  poli¬ 
tical  patronage  by  which  unqualified,  unholy,  and  unchristian  men  have  some¬ 
times  been  thrust  into  their  ancient  pulpits,  lam  of  SirWalter Scott’s  opinion, 
that  no  places  are  so  congenial  to  the  holy  simplicity  of  Christian  worship 
as  they  are.  They  have  an  air  of  antiquity  about  them  —  a  shaded  sanctity, 

Q  Q  3 


598 


SWANSEA. 


and  stand  so  venerably  amid  the  most  English  scenes^  and  the  tombs  of 
generations  of  tbe  dead^  that  we  cannot  enter  them  without  having  our 
imagination  and  our  hearts  powerfully  impressed  with  every  feeling  and 
thought  that  can  make  us  love  our  country,  and  yet  feel  that  it  is  not  our 
abiding  place.  Those  antique  churches,  those  low  massy  doors,  were  raised 
in  days  that  are  long  gone  by  :  around  those  walls,  nay,  beneath  our  feet, 
sleep  those  who,  in  their  generations,  helped,  each  in  his  little  sphere,  to 
build  up  England  to  her  present  pitch  and  greatness.  We  catch  glimpses  of 
that  deep  veneration,  of  that  unambitious  simplicity  of  mind  and  manner, 
that  we  would  fain  hold  fast  amid  our  growing  knowledge,  and  its  inevitable 
remodelling  of  the  whole  framework  of  society.  We  are  made  to  feel 
earnestly  the  desire  to  pluck  the  spirit  of  faith,  the  integrity  of  character, 
and  the  whole  heart  of  love  to  kin  and  country,  out  of  the  ignorance  and  blind 
subjection  of  the  past.  Therefore  it  is  that  I  have  always  loved  the  village 
church  ;  that  I  have  delighted  to  stroll  far  through  the  summer  fields  ;  and 
hear  still  onward  its  bells  ringing  happily  ;  to  enter  and  sit  down  amongst 
its  rustic  congregation,  better  pleased  with  their  murmur  of  responses,  and 
their  artless  but  earnest  chant,  than  with  all  the  splendour  and  parade  of  more 
lofty  fabrics.”  (^W,Howitt.')  There  was  formerly  a  market  at  Penrice. 
The  fairs  are  held  May  17-,  July  1'^.,  September  17.,  December  5.,  and  old 
St.  Andrew’s  day.  The  ancient  market-place,  where  the  pedlars  and  hawkers 
expose  their  goods  on  fair-days,  is  still  standing.  The  parish  contains  1847 
acres  of  land.  Near  the  village  is  an  old  entrenchment.  A  house  called  the 
Sanctuary,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  village,  is  said  to  have  belonged  to 
the  manor  of  Millwood,  or  St.John’s,  the  property  of  the  knights  of  St.  John 
of  Jerusalem. 

On  the  road  to  Carmarthen  there  is  little  to  amuse ;  yet  some  pleasing 
spots  occur  by  the  way.  Font-ar-Dulas  lies  upon  the  Dulas,  at  the  distance 
of  9  •  This  bridge  is  a  ruinous  antiquated  structure  of  four  arches,  two  of 

which  are  dissimilar  to  the  others.  This  river  produces  sewin  in  great  per¬ 
fection  during  the  summer  months.  About  4|-  m.  beyond  is  Llannon,  a  small 
village  standing  upon  the  brow  of  a  lofty  eminence,  with  a  neat  respectable 
looking  church.  Within  S  m.  of  Carmarthen  occurs  a  remarkable  cwm  or 
glen  of  an  awful  depth,  through  which  a  current  raves.  The  whole  of  this 
is  seen  from  the  main  road.  The  vale  of  Towy  next  opens  in  captivating 
beauty.  The  distances  are  as  follow  : — To  Cwmhwrla  Bridge^  1  m.  1  fur.  (on 
the  1.  to  LI  well  wr,  7  m.)  Pentregethyiiy  3  fur.  ;  Melin  Cadleg,  1  m.  7  fur.  cross 
the  river  Llan  just  above  a  paper-mill ;  Co7'seinon,  with  its  elegant  and 
beautiful  churcbes,  1  m.  3  fur.  (on  the  r.  to  Neath  10  m.  ;  about  1  m.  further 
cross  the  Liu,  which  falls  into  the  Burry  river  on  the  1.)  Cyman-llecli,  2  m. 
4  fur.  Pont-ar-Dulas,  1  m.  5  fur.  Cross  the  Llwchwr  river,  which  falls 
into  the  Burry  on  the  1.  (on  the  1.  to  Llanelly,  6  m.)  Felin  Forest,  5  fur.  (on 
the  r.  is  Forest  Hall,  Arthur  Davis,  Esq.,  a  road  to  the  r.  to  Llandeilo-fawr, 
15  m.  About  ^  m.  further  cross  the  Gwilly,  which  runs  to  the  Llwchwr  on 
the  1.)  Cenhrenlwyd,  1  m.  3  fur.  Bi'yn-y-maen,  6  fur.  Llannoii,  1  m.  4  fur. 
Pontyberem,  3  m.  7  for.  (cross  the  river).  Llangyndeyryi ,  3  m.  6’  fur.  (Cross 
the  Trwduay,  which  runs  on  the  1.  to  Kidwelly.  P’wduay,  1  m.  1  fur.)  1  m. 
further  a  road  lies  on  the  1.  to  Llanelly,  10m.)  Pontyberem,,  2  m.  (Cross 
the  river.  About  1  m.  further  is  a  road  to  Neath,  on  the  r. ;  and  4m. 
further  on  the  1.  to  Kidwelly,  8  m.  About  4  m.  further  cross  the  Towy 
river,  which  on  the  r.  runs  from  Llandeilo-fawr,  and  on  the  1.  into  the  sea.) 
The  Lower  Road  lies  through  Llanelly  and  Kidwelly. 

The  road  to  Neath  is  attained  by  crossing  the  Towy  by  an  exceedingly 
good  ferry ;  passing  a  region  of  furnaces,  and  traversing  a  considerable  hill. 


SWANSEA. 


599 


But  a  MORE  PLEASING^  tliough  circular  route  is  described  as  follows.  Cilfay 
Hill  rises  directly  from  the  beach,  in  a  conical  form,  and  affords  a  better 
view  of  Swansea  than  can  be  taken  from  any  other  spot.  Morriston,  m., 
is  now  a  considerable  place,  with  a  population  of  about  1000  inhabitants.  It 
has  a  new  Church,  with  two  dissenting  chapels.  Sir  John  Morris’s  exten¬ 
sive  copper-works  are  here.  Clasmont  is  the  seat  of  the  honourable  Baro¬ 
net,  and  one  of  the  first  residences  in  the  county.  About  1  m.  n.  e.  from 
this  spot  is  Wychtree  Bridge,  over  the  river  Towy,  built  by  Edwards.  It 
contains  only  one  arch,  95  f.  in  the  span,  20  f.  in  altitude,  with  two  cy¬ 
linders  over  each  of  the  haunches.  Gwern  Llwynwhyth,  C.  H.  Smith,  Esq., 
is  a  handsome  house. 

The  Swansea  canal  is  worth  observing,  and  the  walk  by  the  side  of  it  is 
pleasant.  The  head  at  Hennoyadd,  in  Breconshire,  is  S72  f.  above  the 
level  of  the  Towy  at  Swansea  Bar;  there  are  36  locks  upon  it  in  the  space 
of  l6  m.,  and  several  aqueducts. 

From  Morriston  there  is  a  very  beautiful  ride  w.  to  Pont-ar-Dulas, 
through  a  rich  and  well  inhabited  country.  The  leading  object  of  attraction 
is  Penllergare,  3^  m.,  a  modern  house  in  a  good  style.  The  country  e.  be¬ 
tween  Morriston  and  Neath  is  miserably  disfigured  by  the  operations  of 
the  works  ;  yet  the  first  view  of  Gnoll  Castle,  H.  Grant,  Esq=,  occupying  an 
eminence  above  the  town  of  Neath,  backed  by  higher  hills  and  extensive 
plantations,  is  highly  favourable  to  the  display  of  that  splendid  seat. 


AN  EXCURSION  IN  THE  DISTRICT  OF  GOWER,  OR  GWYR, 

Inhabited  by  a  colony  of  Flemings,  who  settled  there  in  the  reign  of  Henry  I. 

On  the  road  leading  down  to  Penrice  Castle  is  Sketty  Hall,  on  an  eminence 
commanding  the  whole  of  Swansea  Bay.  This  is  the  elegant  retreat  of 
Lewis  Weston  Dillwyn,  Esq.  F.  11.  S.,  F.L.S.,  and  President  of  the  Royal 
Institution  of  S.  Wales.  Oystermouth  Castle  is  a  majestic  ruin,  in  a  bold 
situation  near  the  coast,  commanding  a  delightful  prospect  of  the  country 
with  Mumbles  Point  close  at  hand.  This  building  is  a  good  specimen  of  the 
Gothic.  The  village  is  singularly  situated  under  the  shadow  of  a  high 
limestone  rock.  Above  Oystermouth  there  is  a  lodging-house  called  Thistle 
Boon,  with  an  extensive  view  over  the  whole  of  Gower,  and  the  two  bays  of 
Carmarthen  and  Swansea.  Between  Oystermouth  and  Newton  are  found 
the  Papaver  dubium,  and  Gentiana  pneumonanthe.  The  rocky  scenery  of 
Caswell  Bay  is  grand,  and  should  be  visited  at  low  water.  Pwll-du  Head 
affords  similar  objects,  with  the  addition  of  a  very  pretty  dingle  up  the 
country.  From  this  place  it  should  be  an  object  to  keep  along  the  sea-shore 
as  much  as  possible  to  Oocwich  Point,  so  as  to  have  a  complete  view  of  Ox- 
wich  Bay,  with  its  grand  shores,  caverns,  and  promontories.  Penmaen  is 
situated  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  called  Cefn-y-Bryn,  one  of  the  highest 
in  S.  Wales,  on  which  there  is  a  huge  cromlech,  called  King  Arthur  s  Stone, 
or  the  Stone  of  Sketty.  This  immense  mass  of  lapis  inolaris  is  supported 
by  several  others,  similar  to  those  near  Dyffryn  House.  This  has  also  a  heap 
of  stones  thrown  round  it.  It  is  conjectured  to  be  the  largest  in  Wales, 
the  horizontal  stone  weighing  upwards  of  20  tons. 

Penrice,  or  Pen-Rhys,  Castle  is  the  seat  of  C.  R.  M.  Talbot,  Esq.,  con¬ 
sisting  of  a  small  modern  villa,  built  under  the  nodding  towers  of  the  ancient 
fortress.  Before  the  invention  of  gunpowder  the  number  of  castles  erected, 

Q  Q  4 


600 


SWANSEA. 


chiefly  as  places  of  security was  very  great ;  but  since  few  have  been  built_, 
and  these  have  not  been  as  places  of  defence.  There  were  1100  castles  built 
in  England  between  the  years  1140  and  1154.  A  fine  Gothic  window  is 
nearly  all  that  remains  of  Oocwich  Castle.  The  origin  of  this  castellated  edi¬ 
fice  is  attributed  to  Sir  Rice  Mansell,  in  the  l6th  century.  The  village  is 
remarkably  neat  and  pretty.  The  new  parsonage-house  is  beautifully  situ¬ 
ated  on  the  beach,  at  the  w.  side  of  the  bay.  At  Port  Einion  Point  there 
is  a  high  precipice  immediately  over  the  sea,  near  the  top  of  which  is  a  most 
stupendous  cleft.  The  village  of  Port  Einion  is  a  decent,  retired,  and  rural 
spot,  noted  for  its  fine  oysters.  Rhos-sili  Bay  presents  a  marine  view  of  the  w. 
side,  across  the  great  bay  of  Carmarthen  to  Caldy  Island.  The  Down  con¬ 
tains  4  carneddau.  Worm  s  Head  forms  the  extremity  of  the  peninsula.  It 
should  be  visited  at  low  water,  for  the  sake  of  examining  its  curious  rocks. 
The  eligugs  visit  this  promontory  early  in  April,  and  prepare  for  the  busi¬ 
ness  of  incubation  in  May;  in  July  their  young  are  fledged,  and  early  in 
August  the  whole  flock  emigrate.  To  the  s.  e.  of  Llanmadog  there  is  a 
high  hill,  bearing  evident  vestiges  of  a  Roman  encampment ;  hence  is  a 
fine  view  over  Carmarthen  Bay,  the  bold  promontory  of  ATorm’s  Head  lying 
immediately  below.  The  village  of  Cheriton  is  neat  and  pleasant,  situated 
on  the  confluence  of  the  Barry  and  Llwchwr ;  it  affords  much  sport  to  the 
angler.  Penclawdd  is  not  less  rurally  placed,  under  a  hill,  looking  across 
the  Burry  to  the  coast  of  Carmarthen.  There  are  coal  and  copper  works  here, 
as  well  as  at  Castell  Llwchwr,  a  poor  village,  containing  the  shell  of  a  square 
castle,  fortified  by  a  double  trench.  The  churchyard  is  beautifully  planted. 
[See  p.  457.]  Gellhyr  is  the  principal  object  of  interest  on  the  return  to 
Swansea.  The  circuit  of  Gower  is  between  40  and  50  m.  In  point  of 
landscape  it  affords  less  than  most  parts  of  Glamorgan  ;  but  the  origin  and 
habits  of  the  people,  the  antiquities  and  curiosities,  render  it  highly  worthy 
of  an  attentive  examination.  It  abounds  in  many  places  with  deep  pits.  The 
E.  side  is  remarkably  fruitful  and  well  cultivated.  Whitford  Point  lies  8  m. 
N.N.E.  of  Worm’s  Head,  which  stretches  out,  for  more  than  1  m.,  in  a  line 
of  sand-hills,  forming  the  most  n.  point  of  the  peninsula.  To  the  e. 
of  Whitford  Point  there  is  a  well- sheltered  haven,  which  Avill  admit  vessels 
of  200  tons.  The  river  Burry  falls  into  this  haven.  Mr.  Ayton,  after 
making  this  excursion  in  the  peninsula  of  Gower,  hastened  back  from  Whit¬ 
ford  Point  to  Rhds-sili,  where  the  chaise  was  waiting  to  return  to  Swansea. 
(R.  H.  Malkin.^  The  s.w.  part  of  Gower  is  inhabited  by  the  successors 
of  a  colony  of  Flemings,  who  do  not  understand  the  M^elsh  language. 
They  are  distinguished  by  their  dialect  and  provincial  dress,  and  rarely 
intermarry  with  the  Welsh.  They  wear  what  is  called  a  whittle,  made 
of  fine  wool,  and  dyed  scarlet.  It  is  nearly  a  yard  square,  with  a  fringe 
at  bottom,  called  Ddrums.  This  garment  is  thrown  across  the  shoulders, 
and  fastened  with  a  pin  or  brooch.  Anciently  it  was  fastened  with  the 
prickle  of  the  blackthorn.  Some  of  the  old  women  retain  this  fastening. 
This  cloak  is  'worn  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Fishguard,  where  there  is  a 
colony  of  the  same  people. 

Mr.  Donovan  says  that  little  coasting  excursions  by  sea  to  Oxwich,  Pen- 
rice,  W orm’s  Head,  and  other  places  on  the  shores  of  the  promontory  of 
Gower,  are  sometimes  undertaken  by  parties  of  pleasure  from  Swansea 
during  the  finer  months  of  summer.  Boats  and  seamen  may  commonly  be 
hired  in  the  town  for  such  expeditions.  This  diligent  and  ingenious  natu¬ 
ralist  remarks  also  that  the  lighthouse  rock  is  only  accessible  on  foot  at  low 
water.  In  one  exposed  spot  the  substance  of  the  rock  is  a  brittle  calcareous 
spar,  confusedly  crystallised  in  angulated  pyramids,  diaphanous,  of  a  some- 


601 


TAN-Y.BWLCH. 


what  variable  opazine  colour ;  the  fracture  glassy,  aud,  as  usual,  with  spars 
breaking  into  rhombs.  Being  incapable  of  much  resistance  to  the  action  of 
the  waves,  this  extremity  of  the  rock  is  worn  into  the  form  of  a  rude  natural 
arch,  through  which  the  lighthouse,  in  one  particular  point,  is  distinctly 
seen.  A  small  battery  of  four  18-pounders  is  mounted  upon  the  highest  pin¬ 
nacle  of  the  eminence  above.  Hence  there  is  an  easy  descent  along  the  hill 
to  Oystermouth.  Crumllyn  Bog  lies  2  m.  e.  of  the  ferry  across  the  Towy, 
running  4  m.  in  a  direction  parallel  with  the  old  road  between  Neath  and 
Swansea.  None  but  botanists  traverse  this  morass ;  but  to  those  it  supplies 
abundant  amusement.  The  antiquity  of  the  Glamorgan  cottages  is  very 

apparent;  their  pointed  doorways  prove  them  to  be  as  ancient  as  their 
castles. 


The  principal  Angling  Stations  near  Swansea:  —  Ilston,  m.,  a  beauti¬ 
ful  rural  village,  winding  through  a  charming  dell,  and  watered  by  a  rivulet 
called  Pennarth  Pill ;  LTandeilo,  on  the  Llwchwr.  Good  trout,  &c.;. 

Llanrliidian,  on  the  Burry,  1 1  m. ;  Rhwngdwy  ClydacJi^  7  ;  Cheriton,l6  m., 

on  the  Burry  and  Llwchwr ;  Pont-ar~Dulas,  10  m.  To  the  n.  are  seven 
good  trout  streams,  and  abundance  of  game.  Few’^places  in  S.  Wales  are 
so  attractive  to  the  sportsman. 


To  Oystermouth  Castle,  4^  miles.  Wyndham  ; 
Malkin. 

Carmarthen,  26  miles.  Donovan. 

Llwchwr,  7  miles.  Evans  ;  Barber. 

The  Rev.  Richard  Warner  ended  his  2d  Walk 
through  Wales  at  this  place. 


To  Pont-ar-Dulas,  9  miles.  Skrine. 
Neath,  8  miles. 

Briton  Ferry,  5  miles. 

Cardift;  39  miles. 


TAN-Y-BWLCH. 


From  Beddgelart,  10  miles.  Bingley  ;  Pugh. 

Maentwrog,  mile.  Aikin;  Pennant; 
Warner. 

Festiniog,  3  miles.  Hutton. 

Harlech,  10  miles.  Evans. 


From  Dolgelly,  17  miles.  Wyndham. 

Back  from  Harlech,  13  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Skrine ; 
Pennant. 

From  Barmouth,  by  DOlgelly  and  Falls,  28  miles. 
Pont  Aberglasllyn,  6^  miles.  Skrine. 


TAN-Y-BWLCH,  Below  the  Pass,”  is  situated  on  an  eminence  on 
the  N.  w.  side  of  the  Vale  of  Maentwrog,  improved  chiefly  through  the 
munificence  of  the  late  W.  Oakley,  Esq.  Unfortunately  for  his  surviving 
friends  and  neighbours  this  gentleman  suddenly  paid  the  debt  of  nature  in 
August,  1811.  In  recording  some  memorial  to  his  name  we  confess 
ourselves  equally  incompetent  to  portray  the  harmony  of  features,  the 
grace  and  dignity  of  his  form,  and  the  amiable  qualities  of  the  mind  of 
this  gentleman,  as  we  are  to  estimate  the  loss  which  the  inhabitants  of  the 
‘  The  Happy  Vale  ’  have  sustained  by  his  death.  The  excellent  roads 
formed  under  his  direction  through  a  district  formerly  impassable,  are 
knovm  to  every  traveller ;  the  wastes  which  he  embanked  and  fertilised  ; 
the  barren  eminences  which  he  planted ;  and,  above  all,  the  delightful 
exhibitions  of  nature,  in  bold  and  picturesque  scenery,  which  his  taste  de¬ 
veloped  and  adorned,  have  afibrded  themes  of  rapture  to  every  visitor  ;  his 
beneficence  has  bettered  the  condition,  and  made  happy  the  dwelling  of 
many  a  rustic  ;  and  the  remembrance  of  his  private  goodness  will  long  live 
in  the  bosoms  of  his  relatives  and  friends.”  (^Shrewshui'y  Chronicle.')  Bids 
Tan-y-Bwlch,  W.  G.  Oakley,  Esq.,  is  romantically  situated  upon  the  n.w. 
extremity  of  the  vale,  embowered  with  woods,  which  occupy  the  steep 
rocks  behind,  and  wave  to  the  breeze  high  above  the  mansion.  All  visitors 


602 


TAN-Y-BWLCH. 


at  the  hotel  are  permitted  to  view  this  terrace^  which  presents  a  range  of 
panoramic  scenery  rarely  surpassed  in  splendour  and  interest.  If  a  per¬ 
son,”  says  Wyndham,  could  live  upon  a  landscape,  he  would  scarcely 
desire  a  more  eligible  spot  than  this.”  The  Oakley  Arms  is  an  elegant 
hotel,  where  the  traveller  will  find  the  best  accommodation. 

Through  the  contiguous  vale  winds  the  Dwyryd,  navigable  as  far  as  the 
village  ;  and  high  upon  a  terrace,  beneath  a  profusion  of  spreading  groves, 
stands  the  handsome  mansion  of  Plds  Tan-y-BwlcJi,  which  gives  and 
receives  lustre  from  the  surrounding  scenery.  After  tracing  the  vale  to 
Festiniog,  the  traveller  may  visit  the  fall  of  Khaiadyr-ddu,  or  the  Black 
Cataract ;  it  lies  in  the  recess  of  a  narrow  glen,  where  a  large  stream, 
dashing  over  high  precipitous  dark  rocks,  shaded  by  thick  wood,  presents  a 
very  picturesque  object,  and  forms  an  additional  ornament.  Mr.  Pennant 
remarks  of  this  scenery  as  follows  : —  Rode  up  the  vale,  and  dismounting, 
met  the  course  of  the  Cynfael,  which  tumbles  along  the  bottom  of  a  deep 
chasm,  darkened  by  trees,  which  overspread  the  whole.”  Distant  ^  m.  is 
the  Haven  Fall,  equal  to  the  former  in  beauty  and  grandeur.  It  consists 
of  six  various  descents  of  SO  ft.  nearly.  The  effect  of  the  whole  is  ro¬ 
mantically  sublime.  Other  cataracts  of  inferior  interest  occur  in  the  neigh¬ 
bourhood,  to  which  a  guide  may  be  obtained. 

A  rapid  ascent  from  Tan-y-Bwlch  to  Pont  Aberglasllyn,  adorned 
with  oaken  groves  ;  a  brook  on  the  1.  and  a  bold  acclivity  on  the  r.  lead 
to  an  eminence  whence  Crugcaith  Castle  is  perceptible  on  one  side,  and 
Snowdon  on  the  other.  The  soil  for  many  miles  is  poor  and  gravelly,  and 
the  rocks  appear  of  an  ochreous  colour,  occasioned  by  the  combination  of 
iron,  with  a  solution  of  which  they  are  impregnated.  Slate  is  here  of  the 
finest  colour  and  compact  in  texture.  In  the  bogs  grow  abundance  of  the 
Narthecium  ossifragum,  and  Dutch  Myrtle.  Transitions  of  scenery  on 
this  tract  are  rapid,  occasioned  by  the  sinuosity  of  the  road  among  masses 
of  rock  ;  the  prevailing  character  is  craggy  fore-ground,  having  naked  and 
lofty  mountains  in  the  distance.  Come  in  sight  of  T^'aeth  Mawr,  where  a 
level  tract  of  marshes,  extending  to  |  the  vicinity  of  Pont  Aberglasllyn, 
forms  an  irregular  shore.  Turning  through  an  angle  of  the  road,  the 
scenery  becomes  inexpressibly  grand.  Snowdon  towers  above  the  surround¬ 
ing  mountains  ;  precipitous  rocks,  vast,  irregular,  and  impending,  overhang 
the  path.  Sterile  as  is  this  district,  some  scattered  cottages  appear,  in 
sheltered  recesses.  Enter  a  narrow  pass,  railed  on  the  declivity,  where  oaks 
diversify  the  rocks.  Traeth  Mawr  appears  enclosed  on  every  side  by  majestic 
crags,  amidst  which  descend  to  Pont  Aberglasllyn. 

The  distance  from  Tan-y-Bwlch  to  Beddgelart,  along  the  road,  is 
not  more  than  8  m.,  of  which  the  greater  part  is  uninteresting  ;  Mr.  Aikin 
determined  therefore  to  explore  the  windings  of  the  coast,  and  found  great 
reason  to  be  satisfied  with  his  deviation  from  the  direct  route.  Quitting 
the  inn,  he  proceeded  beneath  woods  which  embower  Plcis  Tan-y-Bwlch  to 
the  edge  of  the  Traeth  Fychan,  which  being  land-locked  and  bounded 
by  steep  cliffs,  presents  a  sheet  of  water  beautifully  bordered  by  a  line  of 
woods,  and  studded  with  isles,  almost  realising  to  the  eye  the  most  celebrated 
English  and  Irish  lakes,  at  their  best  points  of  observation.  After  walking 
above  a  mile  on  its  banks,  he  ascended  from  the  Traeth  in  a  n.  w.  direction, 
and  from  an  elevated  part  of  the  road  came  suddenly  upon  a  grand  view 
of  Traeth  Mawr,  Traeth  Fychan,  and  Fach,  the  entrance  of  Maentwrog 
Vale,  some  lofty  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  Snowdon,  and  Harlech  castle, 
which,  though  4  m.  distant,  was  rendered  more  visible  by  a  light  mist 
prevailing  in  that  quarter.  In  the  marshy  pools  on  the  shore  of  the  estuary 


TENBY. 


603 


grows  Nymphaea  alba ;  in  pools  and  ditches  of  marshes  washed  by  the 
tide,  Ruppia  maritima.  Hence  Mr.  Aikin  proceeded  through  the  scattered 
and  populous  hamlet  of  Minfordd  to  the  edge  of  Traeth  Mawr,  and 
thence  crossed  a  large  extent  of  salt  marshes,  which  are  overflowed  by  the 
sea  at  high-water  :  at  the  extremity  of  these  he  forded  a  river,  and  gaining 
dry  land,  walked  through  many  fine  meadows,  till  he  arrived  at  Pont  Aber- 
glasllyn.  A  conveyance  runs  on  this  line  of  road  from  the  Oakley  Arms 
Hotel. 


Back  from  Harlech,  10  miles  ;  thence  to  Dolgelly, 
17  miles.  Skrine. 

To  Dolwyddelan  Castle,  21  miles.  Pennant. 


Maentwrog,  im.  Bingley;  Wyndham;  Skrine; 
Pugh, 

To  Pont  Aberglasllyn,  6im.  Warner;  Wyndham. 
Beddgelart,  10  miles. 


TENBY. 

From  Laugharne,  14  miles.  Barber;  Skrine.  I  From  Manorbeer  Castle,  5|  miles.  Do’ovan. 

Pembroke,  10  miles.  Malkin  ;  Fenton.  (  Narberth,  10  miles.  Evans  ;  Warner. 

TENBY,  or  Dinbych-y-Pyscoed,  is  a  borough,  sea-port,  and  market 
town,  in  the  hundred  of  Narberth,  Pembrokeshire  ;  a  watering-place  per¬ 
haps  unrivalled  for  the  beauty  of  its  bay  and  convenience  of  sea-bathing. 
The  town  stretches  along  the  e.  and  w.  sides  of  an  irregularly  formed  penin¬ 
sula,  towering  above  the  sea  in  bold  and  craggy  precipices.  Tenby,  once  an 
important  fortress  and  a  port  of  considerable  commercial  consequence,  became 
a  poor  neglected  fishing-town.  Hence  the  spirit  of  trade  has  not  destroyed 
many  remains  of  former  times.  Its  attractions,  however,  as  a  delightful  resi¬ 
dence,  rescued  it  from  oblivion.  In  1796,  Tenby  was  almost  deserted  ;  since 
that  period,  however,  it  has  become  a  favourite  resort  of  the  fashionable  world. 
To  the  painter's  eye,  the  beautifully  coloured  masses  of  rock  in  this  neigh¬ 
bourhood,  the  various  effects  of  light  and  shade  produced  by  the  assemblage 
of  bays  and  promontories,  specimens  of  singular  architecture,  and  the 
entrance  and  departure  of  vessels  into  the  harbour,  are  objects  highly  inter¬ 
esting.  The  naturalist  also  will  be  engaged  by  the  productions  of  the  rocks, 
the  sands,  and  shores.  Not  less  than  one  half  of  the  British  collection  of 
600  varieties  have  been  found  on  this  coast,  on  which  many  valuable  shells, 
generally  considered  foreign,  have  also  been  found ;  and  the  antiquarian 
who  finds  a  gratification  in  tracing  the  origin  and  progress  of  his  rude 
forefathers,  may  find  ample  employment  during  the  survey  of  the  various 
fragments  and  inscriptions  which  abound  in  this  vicinity. 

Inns.  —  The  Coburg,  and  Jenkins’s  hotels,  the  Lion,  Ball,  Anchor,  &c., 
afford  the  best  accommodations  to  families  and  temporary  residents.  Good 
private  lodgings  may  be  procured  in  every  part  of  the  town  ;  also  respect¬ 
able  private  houses  ready  furnished  are  attainable.  There  are  at  Tenby  a 
small  theatre,  bowling-green,  billiard- table,  a  public  card  and  assembly-room, 
besides  a  private  reading-room  and  subscription  library.  Balls  and  concerts 
occasionally  take  place  here  under  the  direction  of  a  master  of  the  ceremo¬ 
nies.  Saddle  horses  may  be  hired  on  easy  terms,  at  several  places  in  the 
town.  The  sands  afford  delightful  promenades.  The  Milford  mail  passes 
daily  through  Narberth,  distant  from  Tenby  10  m.,  about  .5  p.m.  There 
is  also  a  coach  through  Gloucester  and  Brecon,  as  far  as  Carmarthen.  The 
season  here  commences  in  May  and  continues  till  the  latter  end  of  October. 
Tenby  is  a  most  delightful  summer  retreat,  and  every  year  increases  in 
publicity  and  convenience.  The  town  is  governed  by  a  mayor,  two  justices, 


604 


TENBY. 


town-clerk^  a  council,  and  an  indefinite  number  of  aldermen  and  burgesses, 
who,  in  conjunction  with  the  boroughs  of  Pembroke  and  Whiston,  return 
one  member  to  parliament.  Milford  is  now  added  to  that  district  of  bo¬ 
roughs,  while  Tenby  retains  its  ancient  right  with  unaltered  limits.  Quar¬ 
terly  Courts  of  Sessions  are  held.  Tenby  is  indebted  to  the  spirit  and 
liberality  of  Sir  M^illiam  Paxton,  who  remedied  the  want  of  water.  That 
worthy  knight  purchased  a  considerable  property  here,  part  of  the  ancient 
possession  of  the  Whites,  and  the  many  improvements  he  made  evinced 
his  partiality  for  the  place.  The  most  conspicuous  instance  of  his  munifi¬ 
cence  is  the  erection  of  the  Public  Baths,  after  the  design  of  Mr.  Cockerell. 
This  building  was  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  visitors  with 
the  most  convenient  means  of  bathing,  either  for  health  or  pleasure,  in 
all  seasons,  and  at  any  hour.  The  water  of  large  reservoirs  is  changed  every 
tide,  by  the  return  of  which  the  different  baths  are  supplied.  The  pre¬ 
mises  are  inclosed  and  roofed.  One  pleasure  bath  is  appropriated  to  ladies, 
and  another  to  gentlemen,  with  dressing-rooms  to  each  ;  and  four  private 
cold  baths  are  for  single  persons.  Several  warm  and  vapour  baths,  with  dress¬ 
ing-rooms,  with  an  apparatus  for  heating  them,  and  a  cupping-room,  are  fitted 
up  with  the  latest  improvements.  Bed-rooms  are  provided  in  the  bathing- 
house  for  invalids.  A  handsome  room  for  the  bathers,  their  friends,  and 
company  to  assemble  in,  commands  a  view  of  the  sea  and  harbour ;  it  is 
provided  with  refreshments,  so  as  to  form  a  fashionable  morning  lounge.  An 
excellent  carriage  road  leads  to  the  bath-house,  and  there  is  a  spacious  vesti¬ 
bule  for  servants.  The  exterior  of  the  building  is  neat,  and  pleasantly 
situated  adjoining  Castle  Hill,  on  the  outside  of  the  harbour.  ^Yithin 
appears  the  busy  scene  of  traffic ;  without,  the  varying  expanse  of  ocean. 
The  bathing  machines  are  the  property  of  the  innkeepers  ;  the  terms  I5. 
each  time,  and  6d.  the  guide.  The  water  is  always  remarkably  clear,  and 
the  bottom  excellent.  The  trade  of  Tenby  consists  of  coal  and  culm,  and 
the  oyster  and  trawl  fisheries.  The  fish  are  chiefly  shipped  to  Liverpool 
and  Bristol ;  some  are  pickled  and  sent  in  jars  to  London  and  other  places. 
The  trawl  fishery  carried  on  from  April  to  October,  by  about  fifteen  smacks 
of  thirty  tons  each,  afford  an  abundant  supply  to  the  various  surrounding 
marts,  and  to  those  of  Bristol  and  Bath.  The  Markets  take  place  on 
Wednesdays  and  Saturdays.  The  Fairs  occur  on  May  4.,  Whit-Tuesday, 
July  31.,  Oct.  2.,  Dec.  4.  The  Borough  Prison  is  a  neat  edifice  used  only 
as  a  place  of  temporary  confinement.  The  Quay  is  generally  well  line, 
with  vessels,  and  the  tout -ensemble  indicates  an  air  of  opulence.  The 
Views  from  Tenby  are  various,  pleasing,  and  diversified.  The  n.  e.  em¬ 
braces  the  whole  of  Carmarthen  Bay,  including  part  of  the  Pembrokeshire 
coast  from  Tenby  to  Eare  Wear;  the  whole  of  the  Carmarthenshire  coast 
from  the  latter  place  to  the  Burry  river,  and  part  of  the  Glamorganshire 
coast,  from  the  Burry  to  Worm’s  Head.  The  distance  across  is  from  15  m. 
to  25  m.  A  line  of  slate  and  limestone  cliffs,  varying  from  100  to  200  ft. 
in  altitude,  extends  n.  from  the  town,  forming  numerous  small  bays  and 
promontories,  till  bending  e.  it  terminates  nearly  2  m.  distant  at  Monkstone. 
Beyond  this  point  the  coast  again  recedes  and  forms  a  bay  at  Saunders’  Foot. 
The  coast  is  seen  next  at  Turpen  Point ;  extending  e.,  it  retires  from  sight 
towards  the  Burry  Holmes,  and  the  low  parts  of  Gower.  The  Carmar¬ 
thenshire  Van  and  other  mountains,  break  the  horizon  40  m.  distant.  The 
Aberavon  Hills,  near  Neath,  and  the  smoke  from  copper-works  beyond 
Swansea  are  visible  ;  and  in  clear  weather  appear  the  town  and  castle  of 
Kidwelly.  Beyond  Penclawdd  the  land  becomes  more  pleasingly  elevated, 
and  terminates  in  Worm’s  Head  Point.  Further  on,  the  Devonshire  moun- 


TENBY. 


605 


tains  are  faintly  distinguishable,  3  leagues  distant.  On  the  other  side,  Caldy 
and  St.  Margaret’s  islands  form  the  w.  horn  of  Carmarthen  Bay.  These 
continue  the  horizon  to  Giltar  Point,  2  m.  w.  of  Tenby.  On  the  shore,  are 
the  church  and  village  of  Penally. 

The  Town  of  Tenby  has  been  fortified  with  walls  and  gates ;  one  lead¬ 
ing  to  Carmarthen  is  encircled  with  an  embattled  but  open  roofed  tower, 
after  the  manner  of  one  at  Pembroke.  The  extent  of  the  wall  on  the  land 
side,  which  encloses  only  a  part  of  the  town,  is  512  yards,  and  the  height 
about  21  ft.  ;  this  is  furnished  with  embrazures,  and  flanked  by  two  square 
and  five  semicircular  towers.  The  s.  wall,  erected  upon  a  rock,  rises  77  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  at  high  water  :  and  through  one  of  the  semicir¬ 
cular  bastions,  now  fitted  up  as  a  depot  for  government  stores,  is  an  entrance 
into  the  town,  by  a  passage  called  Southgate,  formerly  defended  by  an  iron 
porcullis.  Northgate,  having  fallen  into  decay,  has  been  removed  ;  hence 
the  Old  Town,  and  Norton  or  Northtown,  form  one  continued  street, 
about  m.  in  length.  Besides  these  gateways,  there  are  two  more  on  the 
sea-side,  one  leading  to  the  pier,  and  the  other  to  the  south  sand.  (See  Mr. 
Norris’s  Etchings  of  Tenby,  including  many  ancient  Edifices,  now  de¬ 
stroyed,  a  work  illustrating  the  most  striking  peculiarities  in  early  Flemish 
architecture,  containing  a  short  account  of  the  town  and  principal  buildings 
in  its  neighbourhood.”  This  work  consists  of  forty  prints ;  1/.  II5.  6V., 
Booth,  1812.)  This  beach,  nearly  3  m.  long,  affords  either  an  agreeable 
walk  or  ride,  being  so  perfectly  firm,  spacious,  smooth,  and  easy,  that  horse¬ 
races  occasionally  take  place  on  it.  Upon  a  rock  over  these  sands  is  a  battery 
of  18  pounders,  commanding  the  whole  extent  to  the  w.,  and  protecting 
the  entrance  through  the  sounds  between  the  isle  of  St.  Margaret  and  the 
main.  Another  hatte^'y  of  two  guns,  of  the  same  calibre,  is  placed  on  the 
noble  peninsular  knoll,  called  Castle  Hill.  This  covers  the  pier,  and  bounds 
the  E.  extremity  of  these  sands;  and  is  calculated  either  to  defend  the  ship¬ 
ping  in  the^road,  or  to  flank  the  fire  of  the  other  battery.  To  the  n.  in  front 
of  the  town,  is  another  excellent  beach,  where  are  bathing  machines.  High 
above  these  sands,  and  adjoining  Shaw’s  hotel,  the  company  chiefly  pro¬ 
menade. 

The  Castle  of  Tenby  was  probably  erected  by  the  Flemings.  In  the 
year  1151,  Meredyth  and  Rhys,  sons  of  Gryffyd  ap  Rhys,  obtained  pos¬ 
session  of  it.  The  former  died  two  years  after,  aged  25  ;  the  latter  in 
1196*  Maelgwn,  the  son  of  Rhys,  reduced  the  castle,  and  destroyed  the 
town  in  1188.  This  fortress  was  soon  after  rebuilt,  and  the  town  restored. 
At  present  the  broken  walls  which  remain  appear  towards  the  extremity  of 
the  cliff,  projecting  boldly  into  the  sea.  The  s.  wall  is  entirely  demolished, 
but  the  N.  one  remains,  consisting  of  a  spacious  hall,  102  ft.  by  20,  supposed 
to  have  been  built  by  Sir  John  Perrot.  Above  and  below  are  grand  apart¬ 
ments,  to  which  are  attached  extensive  offices.  Over  the  gateway,  at  the 
w.  end,  are  the  arms  of  England,  and  of  the  dukes  of  Lancaster  and  Carew  ; 
contiguous  is  another  spacious  room  of  80  ft.  by  30.  Below,  it  is  said, 
are  some  large  natural  caverns. 

The  Religious  establishments  of  the  town  and  suburbs  have  been  numer¬ 
ous.  There  was  an  hospital,  or  free  chapel,  of  St.  John’s,  founded  by 
William  de  Valence,  and  Joan,  his  wife.  A  lazar  house  in  the  suburb, 
dedicated  to  St.  Mary  Magdalen,  was  endowed  about  the  year  1236,  by 
Gilbert  Marshal,  with  lands  for  the  relief  of  the  lepers  received  therein. 
An  almshouse  was  commenced  by  Anselm,  successor  in  the  earldom  to 
Gilbert,  but  not  completed.  A  convent  of  Carmelite  friars  was  founded  by 
John  de  Swyncmore,  in  1399^  22d  Richard  II.,  called  St.  Mary’s  College. 


606 


TENBY. 


Of  this  edifice  the  walls  at  the  w.  end  of  the  church  are  supposed  to  be  the 
ruins.  There  was  also  a  chapel  upon  the  pier.  Every  insulated  rock  off 
the  coast  had  also  its  cell  and  anchorite.  That  of  Caldy  was  a  larger 
establishment^  and  a  high  rock_,  s.  of  Castle  Pointy  accessible  by  a  reef  of 
stonesj  at  low  water^  but  separated  at  high  tide^  contains  the  ruins  of  a 
small  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Catherine.  Little  Caldy  contains  another 
dedicated  to  St.  Marga.ret.  The  Church  of  Tenby  is  a  spacious  structure, 
146  ft.  in  length,  and  83  ft.  in  breadth.  Upon  the  tower  is  a  lofty  and 
elegant  spire  of  bath-stone,  painted  white,  to  present  an  object  from  the 
sea  ;  it  can  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  several  leagues,  and  is  considered  to 
be  the  loftiest  in  Wales,  measuring  152  ft.  The  roof  is  supported  by 
arcades,  having  fluted  pillars ;  the  ceiling  is  formed  of  carved  wood,  orna¬ 
mented  at  the  intersection  of  the  ribs  with  various  armorial  bearings  sup¬ 
ported  by  human  figures,  and  projecting  from  pillars  of  wood.  The  altar- 
piece  is  neat,  and  the  steps  to  the  communion-table  are  of  purbeck  stone.  The 
interior  contains  some  fine  old  monuments.  At  the  w.  end  of  the  s.  aisle, 
there  is  one  erected  to  the  memory  of  John  Moore,  Esq.,  said  to  have 
become  passionately  enamoured  at  the  age  of  58.  The  w.  door  presents  a 
curious  specimen  of  mixed  Gothic,  and  the  carved  ceiling  of  the  nave  is 
well  executed.  Under  a  rich  pedimented  arch,  on  one  side  of  the  n.  door, 
is  an  effigy  of  an  emaciated  person,  having  a  winding-sheet  partly  thrown 
over  the  body,  supposed  to  represent  Tully,  Bishop  of  St.  David’s.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  door,  under  an  arch,  is  the  sculpture  of  a  beautiful  female. 
A  monument  is  erected  to  the  memory  of  Thomas  ap  Rees,  of  Scotsborough, 
and  his  family.  On  a  tombstone  upon  the  floor  of  this  aisle  is  inscribed 
the  name  Walter  Vaughan,  4th  January,  1687?  said  to  be  the  Vaughan  of 
Dunraven,  who  hung  out  false  lights  to  mislead  mariners,  &c.  But  the 
memorial  most  worthy  of  notice  is  that  to  the  family  of  White,  under 
the  arch  which  divides  the  s.  aisle  from  the  chancel ;  they  flourished  here 
in  trade  and  opulence  above  a  century.  It  represents  two  recumbent  male 
figures,  habited  in  long  robes,  having  large  pockets  attached  to  the  girdles, 
and  caps  thrown  back. 

An  ancient  edifice,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  w.  entrance,  is  now  used  for 
a  school.  A  flight  of  steps  on  the  outside  leads  to  the  apartment,  near 
which  is  a  small  arch  in  the  style  of  Henry  VII.  ;  and  two  others  occur  in 
an  old  wall  opposite.  These  are  supposed  to  have  formed  the  principal 
entrances  to  St.  Mary  §  College,  once  a  convent  of  Carmelite  friars,  founded 
by  John  de  Swynemore,  a.  d.  1399-  The  remains  of  St.Johns  Chapel 
are  situated  in  a  marshy  spot  200  or  800  yards  from  the  town.  Those 
of  St.  Julian  s  stand  upon  the  pier,  near  its  extremity  ;  it  was  converted 
subsequently  into  a  bath,  and  then  used  as  a  warehouse.  Opposite  the  town 
are  some  wild  masses  of  rock,  which  form  the  Islands  of  St.  Catherine  ; 
and,  more  distant,  those  of  St.  Margaret  and  Caldy.  Eastward  stretch  the 
Norton  Sands,  bounded  by  grand  and  uncommonly  high  cliffs  of  black 
granite  ;  here  are  several  bathing  machines.  Round  the  s.  and  w.  sides  of 
the  town  are  the  White,  or  Whit-sands,  in  many  respects  superior  to  those 
at  Norton.  They  present  a  most  romantic  and  agreeable  walk,  2  m.  in 
length,  either  close  to  the  rocks,  or  by  the  sea-side,  to  Giltar,  a  noble  pro¬ 
montory  of  black  granite.  Mr.  Fenton,  in  company  with  Sir  Richard 
Hoare,  sailed  from  the  pier  of  Tenby  to  Caldy,  landing  in  a  small  creek 
under  the  principal  mansion ;  a  handsome  modern  structure,  near  an  inte¬ 
resting  aggregate  of  ancient  miscellaneous  masonry.  The  tower  of  the 
Priory  church,  crowned  with  a  stone  spire,  still  remains  whole.  All  the 
lower  apartments  of  the  old  mansion,  and  its  offices  are  vaulted.  In  an 


TENBY. 


607 

apartment  which  appears  to  have  formed  the  chancel,  the  tracery  of  the 
great  e.  window,  though  now  closed,  is  observable.  The  refectory,  used  as 
a  kitchen,  contains  a  very  curiously  constructed  arched  roof,  and  many 
doors,  which  perhaps  led  to  the  dormitory.  A  gravestone,  lying  in  a 
neighbouring  garden,  was  taken  from  among  the  ruins  of  the  priory.  The 
inscription  is  much  effaced,  but  Mr.  Fenton  read  distinctly  these  words  :  — 

ORIENT  PRO  ANIM  CADUOCANI, 

commemorating  an  early  prior  named  Cadwgan.  This  edifice  was  pro¬ 
bably  founded  by  Robert,  son  of  Martin  de  Turribus,  soon  after  the  date 
of  the  charter  of  endowment  to  his  abbey  of  St.  Dogmaefs,  to  which  it  was 
annexed.  On  the  r.  of  the  road,  going  down  to  the  beach,  there  is  an 
ancient  chapel.  The  island  is  about  1  m.  long,  and  half  as  broad  ;  it  con¬ 
sists  of  611  acres,  of  which  200  are  inclosed,  and  in  good  cultivation. 
The  w.  carboniferous  end  is  limestone,  and  the  opposite  is  composed  of  a 
red  material.  It  abounds  with  rabbits.  In  the  days  of  William  of 
Worcester,  it  contained  thirty,  in  the  time  of  George  Owen,  only  eight  or 
ten,  houses.  At  the  s.  w.  end  of  the  island  lies  SL  Margaret' s,  or  Little 
Caldy,  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  chapel  belonging  to  the  manor  of 
Manorbeer  and  Penaldy.  At  the  dissolution,  Caldy,  with  the  abbey  of 
St.  Dogmaefs,  was  purchased  by  George  Bradshaw,  Esq. ;  in  Queen 
Elizabeth’s  time,  he  sold  it  to  Walter  Philpin  of  Tenby  ;  it  subsequently 
descended  to  a  family  called  Reeve,  then  to  Williams  of  Cefn  Gorwydd  ; 
was  sold  to  the  Earl  of  Warwick  ;  and,  lastly,  purchased  by  a  Mr.  Kynas- 
ton,  who  resided  there.  Margaret' s  Island,  separated  from  Caldy  by  an 
abrupt  chasm,  is  small  and  rocky,  inhabited  only  by  rabbits. 

The  following  marine  excursion  was  made  by  Mr.  Donovan,  in  one  of 
the  open  pleasure-boats  of  the  place.  It  was  scarcely  twilight  when  he 
doubled  the  point,  which  he  describes  as  inexpressibly  bold  and  romantic, 
when  viewed  from  his  station  in  the  boat.  By  slow  degrees,  the  morning 
mists  shrunk  before  the  day,  disclosing  to  the  w.  the  obtrusive  features  of 
Lidstip  Point,  Stackpool  Head,  and  St.  Goven’s  Head,  faintly  receding 
beyond  ;  in  front,  the  town  of  Tenby,  rising  with  dignity  upon  an  aspiring 
rock.  Ptound  Caldy  Island  he  caught  in  a  trawl-net  many  of  the  Medusae, 
particulalry  the  species  purpura,  and  cruciata.  On  the  s.  w.  side  of  this 
island  are  obtained  oysters  of  uncommon  size.  This  oyster-bed  yields  a 
number  of  asteriads,  echini,  and  other  hostile  tribes.  The  species  most 
injurious  to  the  young  spawn  of  the  oyster  is  the  Echinus  esculentus,  which 
here  attains  to  a  large  size.  The  most  abundant  of  the  Asterias  were  the 
glaciales,  and  the  common  sort ;  the  Papposa,  or  thirteen-rayed  star-fish, 
is  of  a  beautiful  carmine  colour.  Mr.  Donovan  collected  fine  specimens  of 
Asteria  lacertosa,  Sphgea  relata,  and  oculata  ;  also  Cancer  tuberosus,  and 
C.  asper.  Proceeding  up  the  island,  he  found  it  thinly  inhabited,  and  in  a 
meagre  state  of  cultivation.  During  this  excursion,  a  squall  overtook  the 
voyagers,  their  sail  was  torn,  and  an  unlucky  wave  half  filled  the  boat. 
After  being  exposed  to  the  rage  of  contending  elements  in  the  open  sea  for 
nearly  an  hour,  the  wind  fortunately  shifted,  and  a  furious  gust  drove  them 
rapidly  towards  the  rocks,  s.  w.  of  Tenby  ;  towards  evening  the  tide  ebbed, 
and  the  squall  subsided.  On  the  adjacent  shore,  Mr.  Donovan  found 
Telina  depressa,  T.  squalida  of  Solander,  and  T.  fabula  ;  numbers  also  of 
the  shell  Sabella  tubiformis,  living  Neries,  Mya  Prsetenuis,  Solen  ensis,  and 
Voluta  tornatilis.  In  a  geological  view,  the  rocks  of  Tenby  and  island  of 
Caldy  have  been  explored  by  Woodward  Llwyd,  and  Mr.  Adams  of 
Pembroke,  of  whom  the  last  gentleman  unfortunately  perished  by  the  up- 


608 


TENBY. 


setting  of  a  pleasure-boat  with  those  who  were  with  him.  The  Torpedo 
and  oblong  Diodon  have  been  observed  in  this  part  of  the  Severn  sea. 
Among  an  abundance  of  fish  caught  on  the  adjacent  shores  are  the  turbot, 
brill,  soles,  skate,  and  most  of  the  ray  tribe. 

A  FINE  AQUATIC  EXCURSION  is  pointed  out  by  Mr.  Malkin,  from  Tenby 
harbour,  across  Carmarthen  Bay,  passing  Monk’s  Stone,  and  making  either 
Laugharne  at  the  mouth  of  the  Taff,  or  Llanstephan,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Towy,  navigable  as  far  as  Carmarthen  Bridge.  A  party  may  hire  a  skiff 
at  Tenby,  and  accomplish  a  landing  under  Llanstephan  Castle  in  one  tide  ; 
but  they  will  probably  be  obhged  to  find  their  way  by  land  to  Carmarthen, 
notwithstanding  the  assurances  of  the  boatmen  to  the  contrary.  For  those 
who  do  not  participate  in  the  pleasure  of  sailing,  there  is  a  pine  walk  or 
RIDE,  principally  along  the  sands,  from  Tenby  to  Laugharne.  At  a  little 
distance  there  is  an  old  mansion,  of  the  Elizabethan  age,  forming  a  marine 
villa,  close  to  the  sand.  Near  Pendine  there  is  a  natural  cavern  under  the 
road ;  but  so  low,  that  a  person  can  scarcely  stand  upright  at  the  entrance  ; 
the  rill  flowing  through  it  is  inconsiderable.  The  scenery  around  is  verdant, 
woody,  and  agreeable.  The  descent  to  Laugharne  is  highly  romantic  ; 
the  town  is  erected  on  the  edge  of  a  marsh,  in  a  very  low  situation,  open  to 
the  sea,  and  backed  by  very  high  grounds. 

MANOIIBEER. 

Manorbeer  (from  maenawr,’’  a  district,  surrounded  by  a  stone 
boundary,  and  ^‘'pyr,^’  that  shoots  out  in  a  point,  forms  a  headland,)  is  a 
small  village,  wildly  situated  on  the  sea-coast,  s.  w.  of  Tenby,  in  the  hundred 
of  Castle  Martin,  Pembrokshire,  consisting  of  cottages,  of  which  a  great 
number  are  in  ruins.  The  court  of  the  manors  of  Manorbeer  and  Penally 
was  held  at  Longstone.  The  castle,  or  castellated  mansion,  described  by 
Leland,  stands  “^between  two  little  hillettes,”  the  rocky  bases  of  which 
repel  the  fury  of  an  angry  sea.  It  is  a  large  irregular  building,  once  the 
property  of  the  Barri  family,  surrounded  by  a  high  embattled  wall,  having 
no  windows  outwardly,  only  an  eyelet  for  observation,  or  the  discharge  of 
an  occasional  missile  ;  all  the  windows,  from  the  habitable  part,  open  into 
an  inner  court.  The  principal  entrance  was  through  a  very  noble  gate¬ 
way,  protected  by  an  extensive  and  almost  semicircular  court,  having  a 
large  barbican  strongly  walled  and  flanked  with  bastions.  The  ponderous 
towers  and  massive  fragments  of  this  castle  denote  its  original  strength  and 
importance  to  have  been  considerable  ;  yet  now,  happily,  deprived  of  ‘^the 
pride,  pomp,  and  circumstance  of  glorious  war  !  ”  it  exhibits  a  scene  so 
wdld  and  desolate,  as  might  disclaim  all  intercourse  with  man.  Giraldus 
de  Barri,  commonly  surnamed  Camhrensis,  the  celebrated  historian  of 
M/ales,  was  born  at  Manorbeer  Castle,  in  the  12th  century.  He  visited 
Jerusalem,  surveyed  Ireland,  and  travelled  through  most  parts  of  England 
and  Wales,  as  the  secretary  and  adviser  of  Archbishop  Baldwyn,  and  wrote 
descriptions  of  each  country.  He  obtained  the  archdeaconry  of  Brecon, 
was  preferred  to  the  Irish  mitre,  and,  late  in  life,  translated  to  the  episcopal 
chair  of  St.  David,  where  he  died,  and  was  buried  in  the  cathedral  in  the 
year  1215.  On  entering  the  vale  from  the  ridgeway,  there  is  a  cluster  of 
old  walls,  perhaps  the  ruins  of  the  principal  lodge,  leading  through  the 
park  to  the  castle.  Across  another  small  dingle,  upon  a  high  slope,  fronting 
the  s.  side  of  the  castle,  stands  the  Church,  consisting  of  a  tower,  chancel, 
and  nave,  divided  by  one  row  of  rude  pillars.  On  the  n.  side  of  the 
chancel,  under  a  plain  canopy,  is  a  tomb,  bearing  an  effigy  of  Giraldus,  in 


TENBY. 


609 

ring  armour^  with  a  mixture  of  plate.  His  shield  is  charged  with  the 
Barri  arms.  On  the  s.  side  are  the  remains  of  a  chantry  or  collegiate^ 
building. 

Mr.  Warner  passed  to  Carmarthen  by  way  of  Tavarnspite  and  St.  Glare_, 
about  15  m.j  chiefly  by  a  footpath^  which  skirted  the  coast,  and  presented 
a  fine  view  of  Carmarthen  Bay,  the  country  wearing  a  pleasing  character, 
diversifled  by  broad  vales  and  swelling  hills,  increasing  in  richness  and 
beauty. 

To  Pembroke  a  natural  terrace  may  be  pursued,  traced  on  a  ridge  of 
bills,  which  commands  extensive  views,  over  almost  the  whole  of  the  county, 
and  a  great  part  of  the  Bristol  Channel ;  it  should  afterwards  be  quitted  for 
the  sake  of  descending  towards  the  sea-coast,  in  search  of  the  gloomy  re¬ 
mains  of  Manorbeer  Castle,  wildly  situated  between  two  small  bills.  Mr. 
Evans  left  this  fortress  on  the  1.,  and  the  castellated  mansion  of  Carew  on 
the  r.,  and  descended  to  the  ruins  of  Lamphey,  a  palace  once  belonging  to 
the  see  of  St.  David,  and  afterwards  a  seat  of  the  great  Lord  Essex ;  2  m. 
beyond  is  Pembroke.  On  this  road,  also,  is  Stackpool  Court,  In  this  direc¬ 
tion  Manorbeer  Castle  may  be  visited,  at  about  5  m.  from  Tenby,  near  the 
sea. 

On  a  varied  route  to  Cilgerran  Castle,  Mr.  Fenton,  on  quitting  Tenby, 
turning  to  the  r.,  pursued  the  road  which  leads  to  Sander’s  Foot,  3  m.,  pass¬ 
ing  through  the  tract  called  Coedtraeth,  in  Leland’s  time  covered  with  fine 
timber,  of  which  few  traces  now  remain.  To  the  1.,  on  a  conspicuous  emi¬ 
nence,  stands  the  venerable  mansion  of  Cilgetty,  formerly  the  residence  of 
the  family  of  Cannn  ;  afterwards  united  to  that  of  Picton  by  marriage.  Sir 
Thomas  Canon  was  a  man  of  great  wealth,  power,  and  learning,  in  the  reign 
of  James  I.  Here  is  a  small  deer-park  belonging  to  Lord  Picton,  and  a 
valuable  colliery,  tbe  produce  of  which  is  chiefly  shipped  at  Sander’s  Foot. 
Hea  Castle,  or  Hengastell,  once  the  residence  of  David  Williams,  of  Edwins- 
ford,  in  Carmarthenshire,  became  the  property  of  Thomas  Stokes,  Esq.,  in 
right  of  his  first  wife,  in  whom  centred  what  remained  of  the  name  of 
Wogan  and  extensive  domain  of  Wiston.  BonmlV s  Court,  in  sight  of  this 
road,  presents  some  remains  of  baronial  greatness.  It  was  possessed  by  one 
of  the  early  Norman  settlers  of  that  name.  Crossing  some  romantic  dingles, 
near  the  edge  of  the  cliff*  which  separates  Sander’s  h’oot  from  Eare  Wear, 
pass  a  Danish  earthwork,  of  which  the  principal  agger  forms  a  curve  towards 
the  land  side.  Descend  to  Amrotli  Castle  (planites  maritima),  a  tract  of  flat 
land  near  the  sea.  There  is  no  doubt  but  the  sea  has  made  considerable  en¬ 
croachments  here,  as  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Laugharne,  Kidwelly,  and 
the  shores  of  Monmouthshire.  After  every  storm,  when  the  violent  retiring 
of  the  tide  has  washed  away  the  sands,  great  roots  of  trees  have  been  and 
still  are  laid  bare,  with  the  mark  of  the  axe  on  some  of  them.  Mr.  Fenton 
says  he  was  able  to  distinguish,  by  chips  cut  off  from  them,  several  different 
sorts ;  and  here  Coed  traeth,  implying  a  wood  upon  the  sandy  shore  or 
beach,  preserves  its  ancient  name.  Amroth  Castle  was  in  the  15th  century 
a  settlement  of  the  Elliots.  The  most  judiciously  assimilating  additions 
have  been  made,  so  as  to  give  it  every  appendage  of  luxury  and  conveni¬ 
ence;  Even  the  antique  porch  is  nicely  preserved.  The  conservatory  and 
grapery  are  entered  from  the  dining-parlour,  once  a  vault-roofed  ale  cellar, 
or  castle  prison.  A  portion  of  this  vault  remains  unaltered.  From  the 
lawn  is  a  striking  view  of  Tenby.  Proceed  along  a  road  to  the  1.  of  the  lawn, 
from  the  s.  w.,  sheltered  by  a  high  eminence  well  wooded,  which  extends 
through  many  intricate  little  dingles.  Pass  the  church  of  Amroth  (dedicated 
to  Elidyr),  with  a  tower  oddly  disposed  of,  to  Eglwys  Llwyd,  dedicated  alsa 

R  R 


610 


TENBY. 


to  the  same  saint^  situated  upon  a  limestone  rock^  which  has  been  reduced 
on  every  side.  The  quarry  consists  of  horizontal  strata,  black,  beautifully 
veined,  and  variegated  with  fossil  shells.  This  road,  which  is  very  bad  in 
wet  weather,  falls  into  the  highway  leading  from  Narberth  to  Carmarthen, 
at  Prince’s  Gate.  Pass  Blaen  Gwydd-noe,  formerly  a  grange  belonging  to 
he  Abbey  of  Whitland.  Upon  rising  ground  bounding  this  dell,  towards 
the  sea,  are  slight  remains  of  extensive  earthworks,  whence  there  is  a  view 
of  great  extent,  variety,  and  beauty.  Within  \  m.  of  Tavarnspite^  about 
100  yards  out  of  the  road,  in  a  field,  is  a  large  tumulus,  called  Crug~y-swllt. 
Mr.  Fenton  here  mustered  a  number  of  labourers,  who  made  an  opening  in 
the  centre.  An  urn  lay  within  a  few  inches  of  the  outer  sward,  with  its 
mouth  up.  It  was  not  large,  very  rude,  totally  unornamented,  and  bell¬ 
shaped,  containing  ashes  and  some  fragments  of  ill-calcined  bones.  After 
digging  to  the  depth  of  5  ft.,  an  immense  bed  of  charcoal  appeared,  ending 
in  a  large  irregular  cist,  branching  out  in  various  directions,  full  of  ashes 
and  burnt  bones.  The  labourers  growing  tired,  Mr.  Fenton  abandoned  the 
design  of  coming  in  contact  with  the  primary  interment.  A  little  on  the 
s.  E.  of  this  tumulus,  in  the  centre  of  an  oval  enclosure,  formed  by  a  faint 
earthen  agger,  lies,  upon  the  ground,  a  large  flat  stone,  18  ft.  long,  4  ft. 
broad,  and  about  2  ft.  thick,  towards  which  led  a  paved  avenue,  like  an  old 
Roman  road,  still  to  be  traced  as  far  as  the  turnpike.  Tavai'nspite  is  an  inn 
where  post-chaises  are  kept,  and  the  Milford  mail  changes  horses.  The 
original  name  of  this  place  was  Tavarn-Ysbytty,  an  inn  raised  from  the 
ruins  of  an  hospitium,  which  had  been  founded  there  for  the  accommo¬ 
dation  of  the  pilgrim  traveller  to  the  shrine  of  St.  David’s.  To  the  r.  is  a 
great  extent  of  wild  heathy  ground,  inclosed  by  a  wall,  which  skirts  the 
road  for  a  mile.  At  the  e.  extremity  is  a  small  building,  resembling  part 
of  a  square  bastion  or  an  ancient  lodge.  Bleak  and  exposed  as  is  the  inn  at 
Tavarnspite,  yet  on  the  n.  side  it  commands  a  view  over  the  richly  culti¬ 
vated  and  wooded  vales  of  Llanddewi  and  Llanbedr  Telffre,  of  singular 
beauty.  Crossing  the  vale  of  Llanddewi  Telffre  upon  the  summit  of  the 
hill  above  the  church,  and  occupying  a  projecting  point,  is  an  encampment 
in  a  strong  position,  strengthened  by  three  lines  of  circumvalladon  to  the  n. 
and  w.,  on  the  e.  by  a  very  deep  and  precipitous  ravine,  and  on  the  s.  by  a 
single  vallum.  A  little  farther  on  w.,  but  in  the  same  line,  is  another  en¬ 
trenchment  called  Caerau.  A  large  circular  area,  upon  a  high  ridge,  con¬ 
tains  a  single  agger.  Having  proceeded  thus  from  Tenby,  Mr.  Fenton 
recollected  that  he  was  not  far  from  the  supposed  course  of  a  Roman  road, 
which  led  from  the  city  of  Maridunum  (Carmarthen)  through  the  vale  of 
M’’hitland,  and  the  station  of  Ad  Vicessimum  to  Menapia,  near  St.  David’s. 
Mr.  Lewis  of  Henllan  Argoed,  in  this  neighbourhood,  had  promised  to 
show  him  some  portions  of  it.  An  old  road,  in  some  places  intersected  by 
fences,  and  in  others  taken  up,  cannot  be  traced  to  any  extent  in  a  direct 
line.  Detached  fragments  therefore  can  only  be  connected  with  the  compass 
in  one’s  hand.  The  first  portion  is  near  Glanrhyd,  entering  a  boggy  piece  of 
ground  called  Corssched,  and  up  through  Glanrhyd-garden  to  Park-yr- 
Eglwys,  a  field  to  the  n.  of  the  chapel  of  Castell  Dwyran ;  thence  inclining 
N.  till  it  is  lost  in  the  present  high  road  leading  from  Glanrhyd,  without 
those  fields,  taking  a  direct  course  to  the  n.w.  for  a  few  miles,  and  pointing 
exactly  to  the  Ad  Vicessimum.  This  is  called  Fordd  Helen,  and  by  some 
the  road  of  Howel  Dda.  Here  cross  a  part  of  Carmarthenshire  to  Llan- 
dyssilio,  in  George  Owen’s  time  called  Llandyssilio-yn-Nhyved,  i.  e.  in 
Dyfed,  Pembrokeshire.  After  passing  the  uninteresting  tract  of  common 
called  Rhos  Llandyssilio,  where  nothing  worth  notice  occurs,  except  a  soli- 


TENBY. 


611 


tary  Maenhir,  traverse  the  skirts  of  the  unenclosed  waste  called  Llanfrynach 
Common,  in  descending  towards  the  TafF.  Here^  on  the  margin  of  that  river, 
pass  through  a  finely  wooded  vale,  by  an  ancient  place  called  Blaidd  pwll, 
the  Pit  of  the  Wolves,”  vulgarly  Blaith  Bwll;  it  was  formerly  the  residence 
of  the  powerful  Jenkin  Llwyd,  of  Cemmaes  ;  and  though  long  since  de¬ 
serted,  still  retains  its  venerable  forest  trees,  among  which  are  two  remark¬ 
ably  large  sweet  chestnuts.  Pursue  the  vale  not  far  distant  from  the  margin 
of  the  river,  come  to  Llanfrynach,  “  the  church  of  Brynach,”  with  a  glebe- 
house  contiguous.  Not  far  from  the  church,  near  a  farm-house,  is  an  immense 
tumulus.  Following  the  course  of  the  TafF,  reach  the  lead-mines  of  Llan¬ 
frynach,  situated  close  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  once  a  great  work,  now 
dormant ;  they  belong  to  Thomas  Lloyd,  of  Bronwydd.  The  vale  now 
contracts,  and  the  TafF  dwindles  into  an  insignificant  stream.  On  ascending 
to  the  mountain’s  ridge  that  connects  the  Precelly  hills  with  those  of  Car¬ 
marthenshire,  large  quarries  of  slate,  called  Glog,  lie  on  the  1.  Upon  the 
summit  of  the  mountain  are  several  tumuli. 

A  few  hundred  yards  out  of  Pembrokeshire  into  Carmarthenshire  is 
Henfeddau,  the  Old  Graves.”  They  are  lines  of  parallel  ridges  overgrown 
with  heath,  lying  a  little  to  the  r.  of  the  ancient  road  there,  called  Sarnau, 
or  the  pavements.  A  little  to  the  w.  of  this  spot,  on  each  side  of  a  narrow 
dingle,  there  is  a  small  circular  earthwork.  The  old  pavement  exists  in 
many  places.  The  general  bearing  is  from  s.  e.  to  n.  w.  pointing  to  the 
track  right  of  Cwm  cerwyn  near  Fod-fedw,  the  highest  peak  in  the  Precelly 
range,  incorrectly  called  Via  Flandrensia.  Its  progress  is  indicated  by  a  line 
of  tumuli  over  the  mountain  ridge.  Its  appearance  is  mostly  that  of  an 
unfrequented  lane.  A  short  distance  farther  on  to  the  r.  at  the  entrance  of 
the  little  sequestered  Vale  of  Clydda,  is  Bol  lAanerch,  once  a  mansion  of 
some  respectability.  Not  a  vestige  is,  however,  left,  a  neat  farm-house 
having  been  raised  with  the  materials.  On  the  1.  pass  Bwlch-y-groes  meeting¬ 
house.  Proceeding  over  this  open  tract  towards  Clydai  church,  and  before 
reaching  it,  turn  down  the  slope  of  a  hill,  to  a  place  upon  the  s.  side,  called 
Hendref  Cymry,  the  site  of  an  old  British  town,  to  which  a  paved  road 
leads  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  upon  the  n.  side..  Cross  a  brook  to  examine 
Nant-y-Castell,  an  encampment  of  an  oblong  form,  with  rounded  angles, 
and  a  circular  earthwork  adjoining  at  the  e.  end.  Hence  proceed  by 
Clydai,  dedicated  to  the  patron  saint  of  that  name,  to  which  is  attached  a 
prebendal  stall,  in  the  cathedral  church  of  St.  David’s.  After  crossing  a 
romantic  little  valley,  with  a  tributary  to  the  Gych,  running  through  it  called 
the  Cheifiwr,  or  the  Shearer,  proceed  to  Penallt-Cych,  through  charming 
woods  to  a  picturesque  mill  and  bridge  upon  the  river  below  ;  crossing  which, 
ascend  to  Cilrhedyn  Church,  situated  at  the  extremity  of  its  large  parish, 
containing  little  besides  the  glebe-house.  This  edifice  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  and  endowed  by  Cadifor  fawr,  one  of  the  feudal  nobles  of  Dyfed. 
Over  the  entrance  is  a  Greek  inscription.  This  district  abounds  with  all  the 
varieties  of  hill,  dale,  wood,  and  water.  The  majestic  Cych  receives  a 
variety  of  tributary  streams,  and  the  vale  is  infinitely  varied,  each  step  pre¬ 
senting  a  new  and  delightful  picture.  Mr.  Fenton  deviated  hence  to  visit 
Cilrhedyn  upon  the  hill,  conducted  by  a  farmer  over  a  narrow  ridge  of 
mountain,  to  avoid  the  circuity  of  the  main  road,  crossing  a  tributary  to 
the  Cych,  called  the  Pihydd.  llegaining  the  valley  at  a  spot  where  the  river 
occupies  the  entire  space  from  the  base  of  one  hill  to  another,  leaving 
on  one  side  only  a  difficult  path  for  foot  travellers,  he  rode  along  the  rocky 
bed  of  the  river  till  he  came  to  the  junction  of  another  stream  from  the  1. 
Here  his  guide  showed  him  the  object  of  his  pursuit,  namely  Twrn  Cadifor, 

R  R  2 


6l2 


TENBY. 


or  the  Oven  of  Cadifor  Fawr,  lord  of  Blaen  Cych,  the  Region  round 
the  Source.”  At  a  narrow  spot  in  the  continuation  of  the  vale_,  tradition 
says  that  this  powerful  chieftain  erected  a  palace  across  this  barrier  river, 
on  arches  resting  upon  two  counties.  Of  this  superstructure  there  is 
no  trace  except  the  oven,  being  a  slight  excavation,  and  a  small  channel 
formed  in  the  same  rock  ;  on  the  other  side  is  an  old  aqueduct.  Hence 
Mr.  Fenton  retraced  part  of  his  road  to  visit  BlaenhylaUj  a  residence  inha¬ 
bited  by  the  survivors  of  a  r-espectable  family  named  Morgan,  about  the 
year  1750.  Their  possessions  here  were  very  extensive,  w'ell-wooded,  con¬ 
tiguous,  and  finely  circumstanced  in  every  respect.  The  last  of  the  name 
were  brothers,  Wm.  Morgan  and  Maurice  Morgan,  Esqrs.  who  passed  their 
infancy  at  this  place.  The  former  was  a  man  of  strict  honour  and  pleasing 
manners ;  his  mind  was  so  kindly  constituted  that  every  one  loved  him. 
He  was  a  martyr  to  the  gout  during  the  greatest  part  of  his  life,  and  lived 
an  inmate  with  his  friend  the  late  John  Symmons,  Esq.  of  Llanstinan. 
The  latter,  in  addition  to  the  character  of  his  brother,  possessed  a  highly  cul¬ 
tivated  mind,  and  sustained  the  office  of  under  secretary  of  state,  during  the 
power  of  the  Marquess  of  Lansdowne.  He  wrote  an  Essay  on  the  character  of 
FalstafF,  of  which  he  refused  to  give  a  second  edition.  His  executrix  de¬ 
stroyed  all  his  papers,  some  of  which  in  the  walks  of  politics,  metaphysics, 
and  criticism,  would  have  planted  a  permanent  laurel  upon  his  grave. 
‘‘  Maurice  Morgan,’’  says  the  Rev.  Dr.  Symmons,  was  my  friend,  yet  he 
was  the  friend  also  of  his  species.  The  embrace  of  his  mind  was  ample, 
that  of  his  benevolence  unbounded.  His  imagination  was  creative  and 
playful.  On  every  subject  he  thought  acutely  and  deeply,  and  his  ideas 
were  original  and  striking.  His  addresses  were  seductive,  and  however  sin¬ 
gular  his  opinions,  he  never  failed  to  gain  the  assent  of  his  hearer.  Both 
his  public  and  private  life  were  impelled  by  the  same  principles,  —  a  love  of 
liberty  and  virtue.  Though  his  intercourse  with  the  world  was  long,  he 
had  acquired  no  suspicion,  no  narrowness,  no  hardiness,  no  moroseness. 
He  retained  to  the  last  the  cheerfulness  and  sensibility  of  childhood.  The 
tale  of  misery  he  stopped  not  to  investigate,  and  his  fortune,  much  reduced 
by  disinterestedness,  was  instantly  communicated  to  relieve.  Nothing  ever 
broke  the  even  mildness  of  his  temper,  save  the  appearance  of  oppression  or 
of  cruelty.  His  failings  were  few  and  untinctured  with  malignity.  Sus¬ 
ceptible  of  the  impressions  of  praise  he  was  not  nice  with  respect  to  the 
hand  that  tendered  it,  and  yet  he  has  refused  it  when  offered  by  the  public 
in  its  most  honourable  shape.  Though  he  had  often  contemplated  the 
awful  crisis  of  death  with  more  terror  than  should  have  attached  to  the  firm¬ 
ness  of  his  mind,  he  met  his  consummation  without  alarm,  and  expired 
with  serenity  at  Knightsbridge  on  the  ^8th  of  March  1802,  aged  77*  In 
him  the  family  descended  from  Edny fed  Vy chan  became  extinct.  In  the  vale 
below  Blaenbylan,  is  Pwlldu,  famed  for  the  ancient  game  of  Cnapen.  The 
cnapen  was  a  ball  of  hard  wood  made  slippery.  The  competitoi-s  were  nu¬ 
merous,  frequently  amounting  to  1000  or  1500  ;  parish  against  parish,  hun¬ 
dred  against  hundred,  and  sometimes  county  against  county.  The  signal 
for  commencing  the  contest  was  a  great  shout,  and  the  ball  being  hurled 
into  the  air,  was  caught  by  one  of  the  parties,  who  threw  it  towards  the 
point  of  contention.  To  such  a  length  did  the  spirit  of  contest  prevail 
that  it  inflamed  every  bad  passion,  engendered  revenge,  fomented  private 
quarrels,  and  stimulated  even  to  bloodshed  and  murder.  This  sport  has 
long  since  fallen  into  disuse.  Pursuing  this  beautiful  vale  e.  pass  a 
picturesque  fulling  mill,  where  a  mountain  stream  forms  a  singular  cataract 
through  a  fissure  in  the  rock ;  it  descends  afterwards  under  a  rich  hanging 


TENBY. 


613 


wood  of  oaks,  interspersed  with  birch.  A  turn  to  the  1,  by  a  romantic 
winding  ascent  through  thriving  young  plantations,  leads  to  Fynnonau,  an 
elegant  modern  structure,  placed  exposedly  upon  the  summit  of  a  hill,  the 
residence  of  John  Colby,  Esq.  Here  formerly  lived  the  family  of  Maurice  ; 
but  about  the  year  1710^  the  estate  connected  with  it,  merged  into  that  of 
Blaenbylan,  by  marriage.  Leaving  Fynnonau  to  the  L  of  the  road,  and  of  an 
intervening  dingle,  the  handsome  mansion  of  Cylywendeg  suddenly  appears, 
built  by  Morgan  Jones,  Esq.  owner  of  the  Skerry  light-house.  His  esta¬ 
blishment  was  elegant,  but  he  seldom  mingled  with  the  world,  reserving  his 
society  to  his  intimate  friends  and  relations.  The  road  towards  the  barrier 
river  Teiji  lies  nearly  parallel  to  the  Cych,  and  would  amply  repay  an  ad¬ 
mirer  of  nature’s  beauties,  if  traced  to  its  mouth  ;  it  abounds  with  the  most 
enchanting  scenery.  This  route  may  be  pursued  over  high  ground,  and 
affords  a  grand  view  of  the  country  adjacent ;  the  whole  chain  of  the 
Pembrokeshire  hills,  the  greater  portion  of  Cardiganshire,  and  the  richly 
wooded  vale  through  which  flows  the  Teifi.  From  this  height  descend  to 
Llechrhyd  Bridge,  formerly  called  the  Stony  Ford,  the  river  being  seamed 
with  ledges  of  rock.  At  this  pass  was  fought  the  decisive  battle  between 
Rhys  ap  Tewdwr  and  Madog,  Cadwgan,  and  Ryryd,  sons  of  Bleddyn 
ap  Cynfyn,  who,  availing  themselves  of  the  unsettled  state  of  Rhys  ap 
Tewdwr’s  affairs,  after  his  recovery  of  S.  Wales,  entered  into  a  power 
ful  conspiracy  to  dispossess  him  of  it.  The  contest  was  obstinate  and 
bloody.  Rhys  was,  however,  victorious.  Madog  and  Ryryd  were  slain  ; 
Cadwgan  escaped  by  flight.  The  scene  of  this  battle  is  generally  said, 
with  great  improbability,  to  have  been  in  Radnorshire,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Wye,  not  far  from  Builth.  Castell  Maelgwn  is  an  elegant  modern 
structure,  the  residence  of  A.  A.  Gower,  Esq  ,  situated  upon  a  beautiful 
projecting  slope,  lying  between  the  navigable  Teifi,  and  a  retired  pastoral 
stream  that  murmurs  through  a  most  romantic  valley,  diversified  with  rock 
and  wood.  The  intermediate  space,  as  well  as  the  whole  of  the  valley,  form 
tasteful  pleasure  grounds.  The  extensive  iron  and  tin  works  below  the 
house  have  been  discontinued  and  the  buildings  removed.  Maelgwn,  the 
son  of  Rhys  ap  Gryfydd,  formed  a  British  encampment  here,  well  calculated 
to  check  the  growing  power  of  the  Normans  and  Flemings. 

The  river  glides  between  winding  hills,  richly  clad  with  wood,  intercepted 
occasionally  by  masses  of  rock.  After  a  succession  of  delightful  scenery, 
suddenly  the  ruin  of  Cilgerran  appears  in  view,  over  a  fine  foreground  of 
two  projecting  capes.  The  castle  occupies  one  of  those  protruding  points 
into  which  the  hill  on  that  side  is  broken  by  deep  gulleys  :  this  fortress 
consists  of  several  bastions  of  different  forms,  connected  by  curtains  of 
various  lengths  and  in  different  directions. 

The  architectural  remains  of  this  district  are  numerous.  Within  the 
circuit  of  20  m.  from  Tenby  are  Laugharne,  15  m.  Llanstephan,  19  m. 
Kidwelly,  20m.  and  Manorbeek,  5  m.  on  the  shore:  and  upon  the  dif¬ 
ferent  inlets  of  Milford  Flaven,  are  Carey,  7  ni.;  Pembroke  10  m.;  Benton, 
10  m. ;  Llawhaden,  13  m.  Haverfordwest  Castle  and  Priory,  18  m. 
Hubberstone  Priory,  18  m.  Narberth  Castle,  10  m.  Lamphey  Court,  7  ni, 
Picton  Castle,  l6  m.  Stackpool  Court,  15  m. 


To  Lamphey,  8|  miles. 

Manorbeer  Castle,  5  miles.  Barber  ;  Skrine. 
Laugharne,  lOi  miles.  Malkin. 

Mr.  Donovan’s  excursions  end  here. 
Pembroke,  10  miles.  Evans  5  Barber  ;  Skrine ; 
Donovan. 


To  Carmarthen,  26  miles.  Warner. 
Cilgerran,  Fenton. 

Nai'berth,  10  miles. 

Carew,  2  miles.  Barber. 


B  R  3 


614 


TOWYN. 

From  Barmouth,  11  miles.  Pugh.  From  Machynlleth,  14  miles.  Skrine. 

Aberystwith,  12  miles.  Aikin.  Cader  Idris,  Pennant. 

Dolgelly,  16  miles.  Warner. 

TOWYN,  or  Tywyn  (a  strand)  is  a  small  market  town  in  the  hundred 
of  Ystumanner,  Merionethshire,  built  of  coarse  schistose  stone,  commanding 
a  bold  and  unbounded  view  of  the  ocean,  and  backed  by  a  range  of  high 
mountains.  It  is  situated  upon  the  river  Dysynni,  which  here  falls  into  St. 
George’s  Channel,  and  is  well  stocked  with  salmon,  trout,  and  a  vast 
quantity  of  wild  fowl.  In  1801  the  population  of  the  parish  amounted  to 
2092,  in  1831  to  2694.  A  fair  is  held  annually  on  May  13.  This  place 
is  much  frequented  during  the  bathing  season.  The  principal  inn 
is  the  Corbett  Arms.  The  lodging  houses  are  neat  and  comfortable,  and 
the  machines  convenient.  It  is  surrounded,  especially  towards  the  sea,  by 
several  populous  hamlets,  pleasing  villas,  and  comfortable  looking  farm¬ 
houses.  The  soil  is  rocky,  and  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  w.  gales  ; 
yet  all-powerful  industry  has  converted  the  marsh  into  meadows  and 
pastures,  and  overspread  the  sterile  rock  and  bleak  shore  and  waving  corn. 
Of  public  edifices,  the  Church  is  the  most  remarkable  ;  it  is  dedicated  to 
St.  Cadfan,  an  Armorican,  the  son  of  Eneas  Lydewig,  by  Gwen  Teirbron, 
his  mother,  the  daughter  of  Emyr  Llydaw.  Accompanied  by  several 
others  he  came  to  W ales  in  the  6th  century,  to  preach  against  the  Pelagian 
heresy,  and  was  buried  in  the  Isle  of  Enlli.  This  sacred  edifice  contains 
several  good  monuments.  Gwenddydd,  one  of  the  daughters  of  Brychan, 
and  the  wife  of  Cadell  prince  of  Powys,  about  the  middle  of  the  5th 
century,  was  interred  here.  In  the  cemetery  are  the  remains  of  Cadfan,  the 
patron  saint ;  the  monument  consisted  of  three  upright  stones,  which 
supported  a  curious  one  shaped  like  a  wedge,  about  7  ft.  high,  with  a  cross 
and  an  inscription  on  each  side,  in  ancient  British  characters.  This  relic  was 
removed  to  Bod  Talog,  a  distant  wood,  where  it  remained  for  many  years, 
but  was  deposited  in  the  church  through  the  laudable  zeal  of  Edward 
Scott,  Esq.  The  principal  mansions  in  the  parish  are  Ynys-y-Maen-Gwyn, 
and  Bod  Talog,  and  Trefriw.  Cadfan  had,  at  the  n.  e.  end  of  the  church¬ 
yard,  a  free  chapel,  the  walls  of  which  were  existing  in  l620 ;  at  present 
the  green  site  only  remains.  He  lived  about  the  year  520 ;  the  stone 
before  mentioned  is  a  supposed  fragment  of  his  tomb,  and  is  cautiously 
preserved.  On  the  shore  grows  Arunda  arenaria.  About  I  m.  n.  e.  hence 
is  Ynys-maen-gwyn,  the  seat  of  Edward  Corbett,  Esq. 

In  making  an  excursion  to  Talwyn,  cross  a  bridge  of  eight  arches  thrown 
over  the  Dyfi.  Terrific  mountains  encompass  the  traveller  on  every  side  ; 
huge  masses  of  rock  frown  over  the  road,  of  which  detached  fragments  are 
scattered  along  the  sides.  The  Dyflas  forms  a  succession  of  cataract  for  5 
or  6  m.,  save  in  a  few  places  where  it  beautifully  reflects  the  surrounding 
scenery.  Some  tributary  torrents  are  hurled  from  the  summits  of  sur¬ 
rounding  rocks,  where  the  majestic  head  of  Cader  Idris  towers  on  high  as 
the  sentinel  of  the  vicinity.  At  Talwyn  may  be  had  comfortable  ac¬ 
commodations,  and  a  guide  up  the  mountain. 

To  Dolgelly  pass  Ynys-y-maen-gwyn,  1  m,  leave  on  the  1.  a  road  to 
Pont  Fathew,  keep  to  the  r.  a  short  distance,  then  to  the  1.  and  cross  the 
Fathew  river,  2m.,  Dolaugwyn,  on  the  1.  1  m.,  continue  with  the  Fathew  on 


TOWYN. 


615 


the  r.  1^  m. ;  cross  a  brook^  and  soon  after  the  river  again  i  m.^  near  which 
place  another  feeder  falls  into  the  Fathew.  Llyndu  on  the  1.  at  Erwhen- 
grach,  m.  cross  the  Fathew  twice  in  proceeding  to  Bwich-y-gyfyng,  1  ^  m. 
Ahergynolwyn,  m.  Cross  a  strong  feeder  to  the  Dysynni,  1  m.  Tyn-y^ 
Cornel  Isav,  on  the  r. ;  Cedris  on  the  1.  Pont  Cedris^  ^  m.^  where  the  river 
Dysynni  is  crossed.  To  Tal.y-llyn,  m.,,  passing  Maes-y-Pandy.  The 
vale  of  Tal-y-llyiij  though  confined^  is  by  no  means  destitute  of  beauty.  It 
consists  of  rich  meadows,  through  which  flows  a  beautiful  trout  stream, 
issuing  from  the  lake,  and  proceeding  to  the  ocean.  The  valley  is  flanked 
by  lofty  mountains,  and  the  sides  adorned  with  verdant  and  sylvan 
clothing.  The  termination  is  pleasing.  The  lake  here  nearly  fills  the 
valley,  so  as  to  leave  only  a  road  on  one  side.  It  then  contracts  gradually 
into  a  river,  rushing  under  a  bridge  of  one  arch,  through  a  narrow  defile, 
on  one  side  of  which  stands  the  church,  and  upon  the  other  cottages, 
intermingled  with  trees.  Cader  Idris  occurs  on  the  1.  To  Llyn  Dol  Ithel,  2  m., 
Minfordd  on  the  1.,  and  Cildyd  on  the  r.  ^  m.  At  Minfordd,  a  small 
public-house  was  kept  by  Edward  Jones,  a  guide  to  Cader  Idris.  Llyn-tri- 
Graeannyn,  2  m.  Pass  at  1  m.  Bwlch  Coch,  on  the  1.  ;  Dolgelly,  1,^  m. 

To  Dolgelly,  Mr.  Pennant  made  a  more  indirect  route.  Advancing  to 
Allt  Llwyd,  he  gained  a  full  view  of  the  flat  called  Towyn  Meirionydd, 
watered  by  the  Dysynni.  Hence  he  descended  through  fields,  and  crossing 
the  river,  dined  upon  a  great  stone  beneath  the  vast  Craig-y-Deryn,  the 
Rock  of  Birds,”  so  called  from  the  numbers  of  cormorants,  rock  pigeons, 
and  hawks,  which  find  a  habitat  there.  At  the  foot  is  an  immense  line 
of  stones,  extending  some  hundred  yards  from  the  base  of  the  rock.  Here 
the  Towyn  waters  a  fertile  vale,  which  extends  2  m.  further.  Near  its 
terminus  is  a  long  and  high  eminence,  narrow  on  the  summit,  whereon  stood 
the  castle  of  Tyherri,  v/hich  extended  lengthways  over  the  whole  surface. 
The  remaining  walls  are  strong,  but  so  overgrown  with  bushes  as  to  render 
the  survey  very  difficult.  It  lies  in  the  parish  of  Llanvihangel-y- Pennant 
Returned  about  -1-  m.  and  rode  several  miles  along  the  pretty  vale  of 
Tal-y-Uyn,  a  beautiful  lake  about  l  ^  m.  long.  Its  termination  is  very 
picturesque ;  for  it  contracts  gradually  into  the  form  of  a  river,  and  rushes 
through  a  good  stone  arch  into  a  narrow  pass,  having  on  one  side  the 
church,  on  the  other  some  cottages  mingled  with  trees.  This  fine  sheet  of 
water  is  the  property  of  Col.  Vaughan  of  Hengwrt  and  Rug,  who 
purchased  it  for  no  other  purpose  than  that  of  affording  his  friends  the 
enjoyment  of  angling  in  it.  The  stranger  who  has  never  heard  of  this 
generous-hearted  Welshman  is  equally  welcome  to  participate  in  the  sport 
without  begging  a  day’s  fishing.  The  colonel  has  provided  a  boat  for  visitors, 
to  be  had  by  application  at  the  inn.  Flies  used  on  this  lake  are  the  march- 
brown,  blue  dun,  coch-y-bondy,  and  black  gnat.  Three  of  these  should  be 
on  the  foot-line  together,  the  number  always  used  in  lake  fishing.  Two 
gentlemen  killed  in  this  neighbourhood  within  six  days  512  trout,  averaging 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  each.  A  few  miles  beyond  Tall-y-llyn  church, 
the  hills  almost  meet  at  their  bases,  and  change  their  aspect.  No  verdure 
is  now  to  be  seen,  but  a  general  appearance  of  rude  and  savage  nature. 
One  of  the  precipices  is  called  Pen-y-Delyn,  from  some  resemblance  it  bears 
to  a  harp  ;  another  is  styled  Llam~y -Hadron,  or  the  thieves’  leap,  probably 
a  place  of  execution.  On  the  1.  is  the  rugged  height  of  Cader  Idris.  Pass 
near  a  small  lake,  called  Llyntrigraeanyn,  or  Pool  of  the  Three  Grains,  from 
so  many  detached  fragments  of  rock  which  were  precipitated  from  the  neigh¬ 
bouring  mountain  into  the  water  below.  Pass  over  Bwlch  Coch,  and,  after 
descending  a  bad  road,  reach  Dolgelly. 

R  B  4 


616 


TREGARON. 


The  road  to  Aberystwith  lies  close  to  the  sea-side  over  hard  sand,  for 
4  m.  to  the  ferry  of  Aberdovey,  a  retired  watering-place,  and  small  sea¬ 
port,  romantically  situated  under  rocks.  After  crossing  the  Dyfi,  and 
continuing  along  the  shore,  gratified  with  a  view  of  the  troubled  ocean, 
breaking  with  dreadful  fury  over  the  cbfFs,  which  form  the  s.  shore  of 
Carnarvon  Bay,  reach  the  village  of  Forth,  where  this  stupendous  scenery 
is  left ;  the  road  winds  up  an  ascent  with  an  elevation  on  each  side.  Little 
beauty  of  scenery  now  occurs,  the  country  being  naked  and  unpopulous. 

To  Machynlleth,  S  m.  Gn  the  road  near  Tyn-graig  is  a  picturesque 
little  mill.  Descending  to  the  bed  of  the  river,  there  are  some  bold  rocks, 
and  a  waterfall  of  15  ft.  For  5  or  6  m.  the  country  is  uninteresting. 
Within  I  m.  of  Penallt  is  Talgarth,  the  handsome  seat  of  Captain  Thur¬ 
ston  ;  and  in  a  meadow  close  to  the  road-side,  is  a  tumulus  overspread 
with  pine.  Penallt  is  a  little  village  beautifully  situated  upon  an  extensive 
plain,  open  to  the  sea  at  Aberdovey.  Here  lived  the  most  amiable  and 
greatest  beauty  of  North  Wales,  Lleusi  Llwyd,  or  Lucy  Lloyd.  She  was 
beloved  by  Llywelyn  Goch  ab  Meriog,  a  native  bard,  who  gained  her  most 
tender  affections.  In  Llywelyn’s  absence,  her  father,  desirous  of  breaking 
off  the  match,  pretended  that  Llywelyn  had  deserted  her  and  married 
another.  She  fell  down  and  instantly  expired.  The  shock  which  Llywelyn 
received  baffles  description.  He  subsequently  composed  an  elegy  to  her 
memory.  A  recumbent  effigy  of  this  lady  is  now  in  Northop  Church,  in 
Flintshire,  dated  1402.  Cefn  Caer,  the  Back  of  the  Fort,'*’  ^  m.,  was 
once  a  Roman  station.  In  the  walls  of  the  house  and  adjoining  grounds, 
are  many  pieces  of  Roman  tile.  In  an  adjoining  field  are  mural  fragments. 
An  ancient  urn,  containing  gold  coin,  was  found  hero.  Mr.  Vaughan,  the 
historian,  of  Hengwrt,  mentions  a  coin  found  in  this  locality,  bearing  the 
name  Domitian.  Near  this  place  occurred  the  battle  of  Penallt,  in  the  reign 
of  Edward  IV.,  between  William  Earl  of  Pembroke,  and  Thomas  Gryf- 
fydd  ap  Nicholas,  in  which  sanguinary  struggle  the  latter  gained  the  vic¬ 
tory.  One  m.  farther  appears  the  town  of  Machynlleth,  across  some 
beautiful  meadows  through  which  flows  the  Dyfi,  bounded  by  craggy 
eminences  and  rising  grounds. 

Fishing  Station — Llanegrin,  5  m.,  on  the  beautiful  stream  Dysynni. 

To  Dolgelly,  16  miles.  Aikin.  To  Barmouth,  after  an  excursion  round  C&der 

Aberystwith,  12  miles.  Warner.  Idris.  Pennant;  Pugh. 

Back  to  Machylleth,  10  miles.  Skrine. 


TREGARON. 

From  Havod,  10  miles.  Barber  ;  Evans.  From  Lampeter,  10  miles.  Wyndham, 

Aberystwith,  18  miles.  Malkin.  Strata  Florida,  Smiles.  Skrine. 

TREGARON,  or  Tree  Garon,  the  Town  of  Caron,”  in  the  hundred 
of  Penarth,  Cardiganshire,  is  irregularly  constructed,  and  situated  in  an 
abrupt  hollow,  watered  by  the  river  Berwyn,  a  con  tributary  stream  to  the 
Teifi.  i  This  place,  being  agreeably  interspersed  with  trees,  forms  a  pleasing 
relief  to  the  surrounding  sterility.  A  market  is  held  here  every  Tuesday, 
and  fairs  occur  on  the  15th,  l6th,  and  17th  days  of  March  annually. 
About  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century,  Mathew  Evans  kept  here  a 
public-house  ;  he  was  father  of  two  sons  and  a  daughter  called  Plant 
Matt,”  or  Mathew’s  children,  who  lived  in  a  cave  near  Pont-y-Mynach. 
Upon  a  hill  s.  e.  of  the  town,  are  shown  the  ruins  of  Fountain  Gate,  called 


TREGARON. 


617 

Plas  Twm  Sim  Catty,  where  dwelt  the  natural  son  of  Sir  John  Wynne,  of 
Gwydyr.  His  real  name  was  Thomas  Jones.  He  was  esteemed  an  emi¬ 
nent  antiquary  and  poet,  and  flourished  from  a.  d.  1590  to  l630.  During 
one  part  of  his  life  he  lived  in  a  dissolute  manner,  but  afterwards  married, 
and  reformed.  At  Nanteos,  is  an  emblazoned  pedigree  of  the  Corbett  family, 
written  and  painted  by  him.  Tregaron  was  once  a  corporate  town,  but  the 
burgesses  lost  their  charter  by  improper  conduct  at  an  election  in  1742.  At 
a  place  called  Castell  Flemys,  in  this  parish,  is  a  very  large  entrenchment 
in  the  form  of  a  semicircle,  well  defended  on  three  sides  by  a  morass. 
Besides  this  is  another  called  Castell  SunnyJiill,  from  its  proximity  to  that 
farm.  The  parsonage-house  stands  upon  an  eminence  e.  of  the  town,  em¬ 
bosomed  in  fir  trees.  The  Church,  dedicated  to  Caron,  a  bishop  of  the 
7th  century,  stands  upon  an  elevated  rocky  spot  near  the  centre  of  the  town, 
close  to  the  xiwer  Brenig,  over  which  is  a  wooden  bridge.  It  is  a  handsome 
structure,  consisting  of  a  nave  and  chancel.  There  was  in  the  churchyard, 
in  1805,  four  ancient  monumental  stones;  of  which  Mr.  Meyrick  has  given 
figures  in  his  History  of  Cardiganshire,  p.  252.  Upon  a  hill  in  this  parish 
called  Penrhiwflur,  are  three  carneddau,  and  an  embankment  of  raised  earth 
called  Cwys-uch-bannog,  the  Furrow  of  Bannoy’s  Oxen  ;  ”  it  extends  in 
a  straight  line  for  several  miles,  through  the  parish  of  Gwnnws,  or  Llan- 
wnws,  to  the  sea.  Below  the  town  is  a  spring,  where  on  Easter  Sunday 
the  young  men  and  women  repair  to  treat  each  other  with  a  small  white 
loaf,  called  Bara-can,  and  a  draught  of  the  water.  This  district  is  remark¬ 
able  for  the  antique  treasures  which  it  contains. 

On  the  road  to  Pont-y-Mynach,  about  1  m.  n.  of  Tregaron,  are  two 
paved  places  in  form  of  graves,  supposed  to  be  the  sepulchres  of  persons  sub¬ 
jected  to  interment  on  a  cross  road.  1  m.  further  is  the  beautiful  sheet 
called  Maes-'llyn,  the  Lake  of  the  Field,”  where,  says  tradition,  once 
stood  Tregaron.  Midway  between  the  town  and  this  water  is  a  marshy 
bog  of  exeellent  peat.  On  tbe  other  side  is  a  coppice  of  various  trees, 
where  Rubus  Idseus  grows  in  great  abundance.  Not  far  off  in  a  meadow 
below,  is  Fynnon  Elwad,  a  spring  formerly  considered  efficacious  in 
affections  of  the  breast.  At  the  n.  e.  extremity  of  these  hills  is  an  almost 
circular  ascendancy,  very  steep  on  the  w.  side,  where  formerly  grew  a  fine 
grove.  This  eminence  is  called  Benau  Bron-y-Mwyn,  from  the  mines 
formerly  on  the  place.  At  the  n.  end  of  the  parish  of  Caron  is  the  incon¬ 
siderable  village  of  Pont-Rhyd-fendigaid,  the  Blessed  Ford,”  S\  m., 
where  is  a  very  ancient  stone  bridge.  Here  is  an  Inn,  where  the  traveller 
may  learn  the  road  to  the  very  interesting  ruin  of  Strata  Florida,  or 
Ystrad  Flur  Abbey.  It  is  called  by  the  Welsh,  Mynach.log-fawr,  1  m.  to 
the  r.  This  abbey  is  very  retiredly  situated  upon  excellent  meadow  land, 
and  near  the  fresh  and  rapid  Teifi.  Lelaiid  says,  A1  the  montaine 
ground  bytwixt  the  river  Alen  and  Strateflure  longeth  to  Stratefleere,  and 
is  almoste  for  wilde  pastures,  and  breding  ground,  in  so  much  that  everi 
man  there  about  puttith  in  bestes,  as  many  as  they  will  without  paiyng  of 
mony.  Of  the  12  m.  from  Strateflure  to  Llangyric,  8  be  mountainous 
ground  longging  to  Strateflure,  al  for  pasture.  A1  this  6  m.  from  Strate¬ 
flure  towards  Buelth  is  montayne  ground  for  pasture,  and  longgith  to 
Strateflure  Abbay.”  There  are  but  two  or  three  dwellings  in  this  hamlet. 
The  soil  is  well  suited  for  cultivation.  The  church  is  built  in  the  cemetery 
of  the  Abbey,  which  proudly  overtops  its  lesser  rival.  There  is  a  marble 
monument  to  Averina,  the  wife,  and  Dame  Anne  Lloyd,  daughter  of  Wil¬ 
liam  Powell  of  Nanteos.  The  former  was  a  descendant  of  Edwyn,  one  of 
the  fifteen  tribes  of  N.  Wales.  In  the  churchyard  are  some  tombstones. 


618 


TREGARON. 


well  executed.  The  extent  of  the  old  cemetery  is  said  to  be  120  acres, 
and  leaden  coffins  are  frequently  dug  up  within  that  space.  Leland  says, 

The  church  of  Strateflure  is  larg  side  ilid  and  crosse  ilid.  By  is  a  iarg 
cloyster,  the  fratri  and  infirmatori  be  now  mere  mines.  The  coemeteri, 
wherein  the  counteri  about  doth  buri,  is  very  large  and  meanly  waulled  with 
stone  :  in  it  be  xxxix  great  hue  trees  :  the  base  court  or  camp  before  the 
abbay  is  veri  fair  and  large.  Many  hides  thereabout  hath  been  well 
woddid,  as  evidently  by  old  rates  apperith,  but  now  in  them  is  almost  no 
woode.’* 

Tradition  says  that  Dafydd  ab  Gwylym  is  buried  under  one  of  them, 
Ystradjlur  was  most  noted  for  its  celebrated  Abbey.  According  to  Dug- 
dale,  the  present  remains  were  built  by  the  abbot,  in  the  year  1294'.  A 
structure  raised  by  Rhys  ap  Gryffyth  stood  distant  about  2  m.  in  a  s.  w. 
direction,  upon  a  plain  near  the  river  Flur,  where  remains  an  old  build¬ 
ing  now  used  as  a  barn,  called  Hen-my  nachlog,  or  the  old  abbey.  The 
present  structure  was  once  the  chief  depot  of  whatever  was  civilised,  and 
divided  with  the  abbey  of  Conwy  the  honourable  charge  of  depositing  and 
carrying  on  the  records  of  the  principality.  No  other  remains  of  this 
abbey  appear,  except  a  wall  at  the  w,  end  of  its  church,  and  a  beautiful  door¬ 
way  of  finely  proportioned  Norman  architecture.  Prince  Rhys  ab  Gryffyd 
was  buried  at  Ystrad  Flur,  in  the  year  1 196,  but  not  a  single  fragment  of  his 
tomb  or  inscription  is  to  be  found.  This  celebrated  monastery  stood  in  the 
remotest  recess  of  a  mountainous  semicircle,  which  still  appears  an  inviting 
situation.  Some  say  it  was  founded  in  the  time  of  William  the  Conqueror,, 
who,  with  many  of  his  successors,  were  interred  in  the  church  of  this  abbey. 
From  the  dissolution  to  the  present  time,  this  once  proud  edifice  has  been 
rapidly  decaying.  All  that  remains  is  the  w.  entrance  of  the  church,  a  very 
fine  Saxon  arch,  and  a  Gothic  window  of  the  s.  aisle.  Two  silver  seals 
were  found  in  these  ruins,  one  about  1798^  the  other  about  1805,  neither 
of  which  have  been  preserved.  In  the  Gentleman’s  Mag.  for  1752,  vol. 
xxii.,  p.  401.,  are  engravings  of  two  coins  dug  up  at  this  abbey.  In  the 
attacks  which  the  English  monarchs  made  upon  the  territories  of  the  Welsh, 
this  house  often  suffered  great  damage  ;  and  in  the  time  of  Edward  I.,  it  was 
accidentally  burnt  to  the  ground.  Being  rebuilt,  from  this  time  it  con¬ 
tinued  to  flourish,  till  the  dissolution  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  The 
abbey-house  was  formerly  a  spacious  building,  but  is  now  attached  to  a 
farm.  It  is  chiefly  owing  to  the  care  of  the  monks  of  this  place  that  the 
public  now  possess  an  accurate  history  of  Wales  from  the  year  1157  to  the 
defeat  of  Llywelyn,  the  last  reigning  prince  of  Wales.  The  earliest  ac¬ 
count  of  the  kings  of  Britain  was  brought  from  Britany  in  France  by 
Gualter,  archdeacon  of  Oxford,  about  the  year  1100.  It  was  a  MS.  in  the 
British  or  Arraoriean  language,  called  Brut  :  y  :  Brenhined,  which  brought 
the  history  down  to  the  year  700.  There  was  a  copy  of  it  in  the  library  of 
Mr.  Davies  of  Llanerch,  in  Denbighshire.  Geoffery  of  Monmouth’s  his¬ 
tory  is  a  translation  of  this  work.  Caradoc  of  Llancarvan  took  up  the  his¬ 
tory  where  the  author  left  it,  and  continued  it  to  the  year  1157.  Several 
copies  of  Caradoc’s  history  were  preserved  in  this  monastery,  and  the 
monks  carefully  registered  every  remarkable  event  from  that  time  till  the 
final  defeat  of  the  last  prince  of  British  blood,  in  the  year  1282.  A  man¬ 
sion  at  this  place,  was  erected  by  John  Stedman,  Esq.  from  the  ruins  of  the 
abbey.  It  descended  to  Richard  of  that  name,  wdio  died  without  issue. 
His  wife  was  second  daughter  to  Wm.  Powell  of  Nanteos,  and  he  devised 
the  estate  to  his  wife’s  brother.  It  was  subsequently  possessed  by  Captain 
Powell,  of  Nanteos.  The  mountains  in  this  part  of  the  country  are  wild. 


TREGARON. 


619 

and  of  various  character,  yet  abound  in  an  abundance  of  grass  which  rots 
upon  the  ground.  Poa  fluitans,  P.  trivialis,  P.  praelonga,  Triticum  repens, 
Agrostis  palustris,  A.  minima,  Aira  aquatica,  and  Alopecurus  pratensis, 
flourish  exceedingly  in  this  vicinity. 

Fair  Rhos,  1  m.  We  hence  pass  over  a  barren  mountain  to  the  hamlet 
of  Yshytty  Ystwith,  2T  m.,  an  ancient  hospitium  of  the  monks,  endowed  for 
the  refreshment  and  protection  of  travellers.  Yshytty  r  Enwyn  was  an¬ 
other  similar  house  of  reception.  Gain  the  banks  of  the  Ystwith,  and 
cross  this  river  at  Pont-7'hyd-y.groes,  1  m.  Then  enter  the  paradise  of 
Havod,  now  the  domain  of  the  Duke  of  Newcastle.  [See  a  description  of 
this  attractive  spot  under  Pont-y-Mynach.]  Pass  Eglwys-newydd,  near 
Pentre  Brunant  Inn.  Hence  to  the  Havod  Arms  4  m.  If  the  tourist  do 
not  wish  to  visit  the  demesne  of  Havod,  he  may  pass  from  Pont-rhyd-y- 
groes  by  Rhos-y-rhiw,  and  Nant-y-felin,  3  m. 

To  Aberystwith,  cross  the  Teifi,  at  Pont  Einon,  1  m. ;  pass  the  sum¬ 
mit  of  Tyn-y-gwydd  on  the  r.,  leave  the  road  on  the  1.  and  keeping  to  that  to 
the  r.  pass  a  brook  1  m.  and  J  m.  in  the  Camddwr  river  at  Pont  ar  Gamd^ 
dwr.  Cross  a  stream  at  Gwydd-y-Fynnon  which  falls  into  the  Teifi.  Ystrad 
Meh'ig  1 J-  m.  A  castle  of  some  consequence  once  stood  here,  the  remains 
of  which  are  very  inconsiderable.  It  was  built  by  Gilbert  Earl  of  Clare,  and 
was  intended  for  a  kind  of  oiitport,  to  the  castle  at  Aberystwith.  Mael- 
gwyn  possessed  it  in  1207,  but  being  threatened  by  Prince  Llywelyn,  demo¬ 
lished  the  building.  Ystrad  Meirig  is  noted  for  its  excellent  school,  endowed 
for  the  gratuitous  education  of  thirty-two  poor  boys,  natives  of  this  county, 
in  the  Latin  language.  Another  endowment  for  40  boys,  in  the  adjoining 
parish  of  Llanvihangel  Lledrod  has  been  incorporated  with  it.  It  was 
founded  by  Edward  Richards,  an  eminent  Welsh  critic,  an  elegant  pastoral 
poet,  and  a  native  of  this  parish,  born  1714.  It  was  most  ably  conducted  by 
the  Rev.  David  Williams.  Pass  several  solitary  houses  ;  on  the  r.  is  Pen-y- 
Graig,  ^  m. ;  ^  m.  on  the  1.  is  Llanwnws,  1^  m.  In  this  parish  is  a  beau¬ 
tiful  waterfall  of  considerable  height,  surrounded  by  romantic  and  delightful 
scenery,  called  Pwll  Caradog.  In  the  churchyard  of  Llanwnws  is  an  an¬ 
cient  monumental  stone,  supposed  to  commemorate  a  chief  named  Caradog, 
who  lost  his  life  by  rushing  over  the  precipice  in  this  place,  hence  called 
Caradog’s  Pool.  It  stands  about  4  ft.  out  of  the  ground  ;  its  form  is  semi- 
cylindrical  ;  the  flat  side  measures  one  foot  near  the  ground  ;  and  increases  to 
I  ft.  3  inches  towards  the  top.  It  bears  a  cross  and  an  inscription,  nearly 
obliterated,  which  Meyrick  reads  as  follows  :  —  Quicunque  escplicaverit  hoc 
nomen  — jiocit,  hunc  crucem  pro  anima  Hiraidos  filius  CaroP 

Llanafan,  2  m.;  Crosswood,  1  m.  (in  Welsh  Trawscoed'),  formerly  the 
seat  of  Lord  Vaughan,  now  of  the  Earl  of  Lisburne.  This  family  trace  their 
pedigree  to  Callwyn,  a  chieftain,  one  of  the  fifteen  tribes  of  N.  Wales,  who 
lived  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  8  th  century.  Pass  with  the  Ystwyth, 
on  the  1.  to  Aber  Magwyr,  1  m.,  and  Pentre»ddu,  2  m.,  where  quit  the 
Ystwyth.  Pen-y-Wei'n,  |  m.  ;  New  Cross,  i  m.  Pass  a  wooded  estate 
called  Nanteos,  on  the  r.,  1^  m.;  Picadilly,  If  m.  ;  Pen-y~Einas,  an 
ancient  fortification,  on  the  1.  Aberystwith,  If  m. 

To  Lbandoveby,  pass  the  forest  of  Roscob,  and  descending  to  the  vale 
of  the  Irfon,  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  are  the  mineral  springs  called 
Llanwrted  Wells.  They  are  much  frequented  during  the  summer  months, 
and  used  in  cases  wherein  the  waters  of  Harrowgate  are  efficacious.  The 
small  inn  of  Tavarn-y-Prydd  affords  refreshments ;  the  mountain  is  as¬ 
cended  from  the  s.  The  mansion  of  Gian  Bran,  situated  in  a  well  wooded 
park,  is  passed  by  an  easy  descent. 


620 


TREMADOC. 


The  country  to  Llanbedr-pont-Stephan,  or  Lampeter^  is  dreary,  but 
improves  much  in  its  progress.  It  may  be  travelled  on  either  side  of  the 
river  Teifi ;  but  a  stranger  will  prefer  the  e.  side  over  Pont  Llanio  to 
Llan-ddewi  Brefi,  distant  3  m.,  situated  near  the  s.  banks  of  the  river  Teifi, 
and  opposite  Llanio-isav,  where  there  are  some  remains  of  the  Roman  city 
of  Loventium.  The  church  of  Llan-ddewi-Brefi  is  situated  upon  a  gentle 
eminence,  backed  by  high  mountains,  and  surrounded  by  cottages.  Four 
lofty  Gothic  arches,  supporting  a  square  massive  turret,  bespeak  its 
ancient  grandeur.  In  522,  at  a  holy  synod,  held  here,  St.  David  opposed 
the  opinions  of  the  Pelagians.  Dubricius,  archbishop  of  Caerleon,  having 
assisted  at  the  synod,  resigned  his  see  to  St.  David,  and  betook  himself  to 
Babdsey  Island,  to  apply  the  remainder  of  his  life  to  devotion.  A  pro¬ 
digious  petrified  horn  is  shown  at  the  church,  said  to  have  been  deposited 
there  from  that  time  ;  in  the  year  1187,  Bishop  Beck  founded  a  college  on 
the  spot.  Several  Roman  inscriptions  appear  upon  stones,  in  and  about  the 
church  ;  but  at  Caer  Cestish,  the  Field  of  the  Castle,”  a  great  number  have 
at  various  times  been  discovered,  with  coins  and  Roman  bricks.  Dr.  Gibson 
considers  this  to  be  the  Lovantinum  of  Ptolemy,  in  which  opinion  he 
is  supported  by  Horsley.  Yet  this  spot,  the  site  of  a  Roman  town,  and 
once  occupied  by  legions,  is  now  traced  with  difficulty  among  barren  fields 
remote  from  the  habitation  of  man  !  Sic  transit  mundum, 

Lanfair  Clydoge,  m.  Perhaps  no  situation  between  Tregaron  and 
Lampeter  is  more  agreeably  circumstanced  than  Millsjield,  on  the  banks  of 
the  tributary  Mathern.  In  the  parish  of  Cellan,  Bishop  Gibson  notices  a 
remarkable  pillar,  about  l6  ft.  high,  and  3  ft.  broad,  erected  upon  the  top 
of  a  mountain.  Lampeter,  3  m.  A  wild  tract  led  Mr.  Skrine  back  to  the 
banks  of  the  Ystwith,  just  below  Crosswood,  whence  he  passed  Nanteos, 
and  crossed  the  Rheidol  to  the  ancient  town  of  Llanbadarn-fawr. 

Angling  Stations. — Caron-uwch-Clawdel,  or  Strata  Florida,  6  m.  ranks 
among  the  best  angling  stations  in  S.  Wales;  Pont-tre-cefel,  on  the  Teifi, 
is  an  excellent  stream  ;  Trevlyn,  2  m.  on  the  Teifi,  is  considered  to  be  the 
best  salmon,  trout,  and  sewin  river  in  S.  Wales. 


TREMADOC. 


Fi'om  Beddgelavt,  by  Pont  Aberglasllyn,  7  miles 
Pennant ;  Bingley  ;  Skrine. 

Maentwrog,  over  Moel-Wyn-yr-Hydd,  by 
Pont  Aberglasllyn,  12  miles.  Evans. 
Tan-y~Bwlch,  by  Pont  Aberglasllyn,  10  m, 
Wyndham ;  Warner. 


From  Tan-y-Bwlch,  by  the  edge  of  Traeth-mawr; 
to  Pont  Aberglasllyn,  14  miles.  Aikin  ; 
Hutton. 

Penmorfa,  2miles.  Pugh. 


TREMADOC,  a  market-town  and  sea-port  in  the  parish  of  Ynys- 
cyntraiarn,  stands  3  ft.  below  low  water  mark,  upon  a  portion  of  land 
recovered  from  the  w.  side  of  Traeth-mawr,  in  the  promontory  of  Llyn  in 
Caernarvonshire.  The  form  of  Tremadoc  is  oblong,  leaving  in  the  centre  a 
lofty  column ;  on  the  e.  side  is  a  handsome  Market-house,  and  over  it  an 
Assembly-room.  On  the  other  sides  of  the  quadrangular  area  are  ranged  the 
recently  well-built  houses,  the  plan  of  which  when  completed  will  be  a  great 
ornament  to  this  part  of  the  coast.  A  small  Church  built  at  the  expense  of 
Mr.  Madocks,  in  the  later  style  of  English  architecture,  with  a  lofty  spire, 
is  situated  on  one  side  of  an  intended  new  street ;  and  on  the  other  is  a  neat 
place  of  worship  for  protestant  dissenters.  Mr.  Madocks,  by  whom  this 


TREMADOC. 


621 


tract  of  country  was  regenerated^  and  this  new  town  formed,  established  a 
cloth-manufactory,  a  weekly  market,  annual  fairs,  and  a  Bank  for  commercial 
purposes ;  nor  was  he  inattentive  to  the  traveller,  for  the  Madock  Arms  is 
a  respectable  and  comfortable  Inn  and  boarding-house.  A  horse-race 
in  the  spring  of  the  year  brings  an  abundance  of  people  to  the  place.  The 
policy  of  this  institution,  however,  admits  of  animadversion.  At  a  short 
distance  from  the  town  stands  Tan-yr-allt,  John  William  Lloyd,  Esq., 
high  sheriff  for  the  county.  This  mansion  exhibits  considerable  archi¬ 
tectural  taste,  and  is  situated  upon  a  lofty  rock,  amidst  flourishing  planta¬ 
tions,  which,  with  a  singularly  neat  lodge,  form  a  pleasing  and  picturesque 
appearance.  It  commands  a  rich  prospect  of  the  Merionethshire  mountains, 
the  rocky  boundary  of  the  sea,  and  opening  of  St.  George’s  Channel.  The  ivy 
which  overspreads  the  towering  rocks  above  gives  them  the  appearance  of 
mighty  bulwarks.  Mr.  Madocks  planted  more  than  a  million  of  trees,  which 
clothe  the  heretofore  denuded  surfaces  of  the  surrounding  hills. 

In  the  year  1625,  Sir  John  Wynne  of  Gwydir,  conceived  that  to  gain 
both  the  traeths  from  the  sea  was  practicable  by  an  embankment.  He 
solicited  the  assistance  of  his  illustrious  countryman  Sir  Hugh  Myddleton, 
but  the  latter  declined  this  business,  being  engaged  with  his  mines,  the  New 
River  at  London,  and  other  undertakings.  This  great  design  was  undertaken 
by  the  late  W.  A.  Madocks,  Esq.,  of  Tan-yr-allt.  He  first  formed  a  plan 
for  regaining  a  portion  of  land  upon  the  w.  side  of  Traeth-mawr,  which  he 
completed  about  the  year  1800.  This  reclaimed  land  now  produces  most 
luxuriant  crops  of  wheat,  barley,  clover,  &c.  comprising  nearly  I9OO  acres 
of  rich  land  ;  the  appropriate  name  of  Glandwr  is  given  to  it.  Successful 
in  this  enterprise,  Mr.  Madocks  engaged  in  the  more  arduous  task  of 
recovering  the  greater  part  of  the  land  within  the  Traeth-mawr,  by 
extending  an  embankment  across  from  side  to  side.  In  1807,  he  obtained 
a  grant  from  the  crown,  vesting  in  him  and  his  heirs  the  whole  of  these 
sands  from  Pont  Aberglasllyn  to  the  point  at  Gest,  where  lead  ore  has  been 
discovered.  This  bold  design  was  suddenly  commenced  and  as  rapidly 
executed.  The  extent  of  the  line  from  n.  to  s.  is  about  a  mile  ;  the 
breadth  of  the  embankment  at  the  base  from  100  to  400  ft.  diminishing  to 
SO  ft.  at  the  summit,  the  elevation  of  which  is  100  ft.  from  the  foundation. 
Upon  the  e.  side  is  a  turnpike-road,  forming  a  communication  between  the 
counties  of  Caernarvon  and  Merioneth.  In  September,  1810,  this  im¬ 
portant  design  had  proceeded  from  each  extremity  to  within  100  yards  in 
the  centre.  The  filling  up  of  this  small  chasm  was  considered  the  trying 
point,  for  the  tide  flowed  through  it  with  amazing  rapidity  and  tremendous 
force.  A  spirit  of  improvement  has  been  exceedingly  active  in  this  district, 
particularly  with  respect  to  enbankments  and  new  roads.  The  handsome 
villas  Morfa  Lodge  and  TuJiwnt-ir-Bwlch  in  the  immediate  neighbour¬ 
hood  were  erected  by  Mr.  Madocks  ;  to  whom  the  public  are  indebted  also 
for  the  improved  navigation  of  the  bay,  which  now  receives  vessels  of  300 
tons  burden.  His  last  effort  was  the  erection  of  Port  Madoc,  1  m.  from  the 
town,  of  which  the  chief  articles  of  export  are  slates  from  Festiniog,  and 
copper  ore  from  the  neighbouring  mines.  The  chief  imports  consist  of 
timber,  coal,  and  lime.  The  same  spirited  and  indefatigable  individual 
caused  the  erection  of  commodious  quays  and  wharfs  for  the  convenience 
of  landing  and  shipping  merchandise. 

The  road  to  Porth-yn-Llyn  passes  under  Craig  Wen,  or  the  White 
Rock,”  resembling  the  pass  of  Llanberis,  and  continues  equally  tremendous 
for  several  miles,  with  an  arm  of  the  sea  and  Aberglasllyn  river  on  the  r. 

The  rocky  mountain  called  the  Cnucht  or  Nicht  appears  as  if  scooped 


622 


USK. 


by  a  convulsion^  leaving  on  one  side  a  lofty  semicone.  Mr.  Pugh  has  taken 
a  sketch  of  this  scenery.  He  gives  another  of  a  fallen  rock  which  he  met 
with.  This  road^  extending  along  the  n.  side  of  the  Traeth-mawr_,  affords 
a  delightful  ride  when  the  tide  is  high^  from  the  combined  effect  of  a  large 
surface  of  water^  and  the  opposite  scenery  of  the  Merionethshire  coast, 
including  Pont  AhergldsUyn.  There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  the  bridge 
here,  which  is  a  single  arch,  and  its  chord  SO  ft.;  but  the  scenery  around 
is  magnificent.  The  road  to  Beddgelart  winds  most  romantically  along  a 
narrow  defile.  Here  the  dark  perpendicular  cliffs  on  each  side  so  nearly 
approach,  as  only  to  leave  space  for  an  excellent  carriage  road  and  a  rapid 
stream,  formed  by  the  united  torrents  of  the  Colwyn  and  Glas  Llyn.  A 
few  yards  above  is  a  salmon  leap.  Its  elevation  above  the  bed  of  the  river 
is  about  13  ft.,  and  generally  8  or  9  ft.  from  the  surface.  Salmon  ascend 
rivers  at  the  latter  end  of  the  year,  sometimes  as  early  as  the  beginning  of 
October,  to  deposit  their  spawn  on  the  sandy  shallows.  They  have  the 
power  of  springing  to  a  great  height  over  rocks  and  wears.  This  small 
cataract  being  only  a  few  miles  from  the  sea,  is  frequented  by  great  num¬ 
bers  of  salmon  ;  they  are,  however,  prevented  from  advancing  further  by 
nets  placed  for  the  purpose  during  the  months  of  August  and  September. 
Thus  the  fish  are  detained  in  the  still  waters  below,  where  they  are  either 
taken  in  nets,  or  struck  with  harpoons.  The  numerous  prints  published 
of  this  bridge  are  little  more  than  duplicates,  Mr.  Pugh  ascended  the 
summit  above  the  entrance  at  the  pass,  and  found  that  a  downward  pro¬ 
spect  of  the  river,  amongst  wood  and  disintegrated  rocks,  surpassed  any 
thing  he  had  seen  from  the  valleys  below.  Several  attempts  have  been 
made  to  procure  copper  near  Pont  Aberglasllyn,  but  the  ore  is  not  rich. 

On  a  bog  near  this  place  grow  Osmunda  regalis,  and  Myrica  gale ;  and 
on  bank  sides  near  the  bridge,  Senecio  sylvaticus. 

Advancing  to  Beddgelart  this  pass  expands  to  a  little  plain.  On  the 
road  side  occurs  a  stone  called  the  Chair  of  Rhys  Goch  Eryrij'  a  cele¬ 
brated  mountain  bard,  contemporary  with  Owain  Glyndwr.  He  dwelt  at 
Havod-garegog,  at  the  entrance  to  Traeth-mawr  sands,  whence  he  frequently 
walked,  and  sitting  upon  this  stone,  is  said  to  have  composed  many  of  his 
poems.  Having  escaped  the  vengeance  of  the  English,  for  inspiring  his 
countrymen  with  the  love  of  liberty,  and  animating  them  to  a  tedious  and 
gallant  defence  of  their  native  rights,  he  died  about  the  year  1420,  and  was 
interred  at  Beddgelart,  Towards  the  termination  of  this  plain,  on  the  1. 
of  the  road,  appears  the  pleasantly  situated  Beddgelart  Hotel. 

To  Penmorfa,  2  miles.  Pennant;  Bingley.  To  Tan-y-Bwlch,  Smiles ;  to  Aberglasllyn,.  6  miles. 

Beddgelart,  7  miles.  Pont  Aberglasllyn,  1^  m.  Tremadoc,  5  miles.  Bingley  ;  Skrine. 

Wyndham  ;  Aikin ;  Evans  ;  Warner, 


USK. 


From'Caerleon,  7  miles.  Coxe  ;  Barber;  Manby.  I  From  Pont-y-Pooly  6  miles.  Wyndbam. 

Llanfair,  lOi  miles.  Warner.  |  Newport,  Mon.,  over  Pencamawr.  Skrine. 


USK,  called  by  the  Britons,  Brunebadgie  for  Burenbegie,  or  Brynbida  ; 
by  Giraldus,  Castrum  Isca,  is  situated  upon  a  lingula  or  tongue  of  land, 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Olwy  with  the  Usk,  in  the  centre  of  Mon¬ 
mouthshire,  supposed  by  many  to  have  been  the  Burrium  of  the  Romans. 
It  is  a  market-town,  and  the  quarter  sessions  for  the  county  are  held  here. 


USK. 


623 


on  account  of  its  central  situation.  The  four  lines  of  houses  in  this  place 
form  nearly  an  exact  square^  the  area  of  which  is  composed  of  gardens  and 
orchards.  The  Three  Salmons,  the  George,  and  the  King’s  Head  Inns, 
atford  good  accommodation. 

A  stone  bridge  of  five  arches  is  built  across  the  Usk,  from  which  the 
mountains  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Abergavenny  are  seen  with  considerable 
effect :  the  even  ridge  of  the  Blorenge  and  conical  shape  of  the  sugar-loaf, 
are  finely  contrasted  with  the  broken  summit  of  the  Skyrrid,  appearing 
through  an  opening  in  the  circumjacent  hills.  Usk  is  a  place  of  great 
antiquity ;  its  ancient  boundaries  were  of  considerable  extent,  and  may  yet 
be  traced  in  an  imperfect  rampart  in  the  adjoining  fields.  In  digging  wells 
and  making  foundations  for  buildings,  three  ranges  of  pavement  have 
been  discovered.  In  a  field  called  Caeputa,  to  the  s.  of  the  town,  between 
the  church  and  the  turnpike-road,  about  the  year  1796,  a  paved  road  was 
discovered  under  ground  ,*  it  was  9  ft-  broad,  formed  of  hewn  stones  placed 
edgeways,  supposed  to  have  been  a  street  of  the  town.  The  area,  of  which 
the  new  market-house  occupies  the  centre,  has  a  neat  appearance.  Its 
population  in  1831  was  ll6’0.  It  has  no  commerce,  and  only  one  ma¬ 
nufactory  of  japan  ware,  which  was  established  by  Mr.  Edward  Allgood,  of 
Pont-y-Pool,  and  afterwards  conducted  by  his  nephew  Mr.  Hughes.  Most 
of  the  inhabitants  are  employed  in  farming  or  fishing.  The  Usk  abounds 
with  fish.  The  salmon  of  the  Severn,  Wye,  Towy,  and  the  Teifi,  have  been 
praised  in  their  turns  ;  but  epicures  give  the  preference  to  those  caught  in 
the  Usk.  Several  weirs  have  been  established  on  the  river  in  this  vicinity 
for  catching  them  :  there  is  one  at  Trostrey. 

Usk  is  a  borough  town,  and  is  represented  in  conjunction  with  Newport 
and  Monmouth,  by  one  member  of  parliament.  An  agreeable  walk  leads 
under  the  first  arch  of  the  bridge  to  the  Abergavenny  road  through  a 
meadow  planted  with  large  walnut  trees,  by  the  side  of  the  murmuring 
Usk.  The  ruins  of  the  castle  and  its  high  ponderous  ivy-mantled  tower, 
are  here  seen  to  the  best  advantage.  It  stands  upon  an  abrupt  eminence 
to  the  E.  of  the  river,  and  takes  the  circular  bend  of  the  hill.  These  re¬ 
mains  consist  of  the  shell  which  encloses  an  area  and  some  outworks  to 
the  w.,  formed  by  two  straight  converging  walls,  strengthened  at  their  point 
of  union  by  a  round  tower.  At  the  extremity  of  the  s.  wall  is  a  pointed 
gateway,  with  a  groove  for  a  portcullis,  which  formed  the  principal  entrance ; 
the  upper  part  has  been  converted  into  a  farm-house,  with  considerable 
additions.  Like  all  castles  built  at  early  periods,  it  consists  of  straight 
walls,  strengthened  with  round  and  square  towers,  having  on  the  outside 
no  aperture  but  eyelets,  except  such  as  have  been  formed  since  its  erection. 
Several  of  the  apartments  and  a  baronial  hall,  measuring  48  ft.  by  24,  con¬ 
tain  chimneys.  The  founder’s  name  has  not  been  ascertained.  In  1262, 
it  belonged  to  Richard  de  Clare.  It  then  passed  through  different  branches  to 
Edward  IV.,  Richard  III.,  Henry  VII.,  and  William,  first  Earl  of  Pem¬ 
broke.  The  castle  was  purchased  from  Herbert,  Viscount  Windsor,  with 
other  property,  by  Valentine  Morris,  of  Piercefield,  who,  unable  to  pay  the 
deposit,  transferred  it  to  Lord  Clive,  of  whom  it  was  bought  by  the  Duke  of 
Beaufort.  (See  further  Cooce^ s  Monmouthshire,  p.  127 — 131.)  No  castle 
in  Monmouthshire  was  subject  to  more  frequent  assaults  than  that  of  Usk, 
from  the  merciless  Owain  Glyndwr,  who,  after  committing  the  most  out¬ 
rageous  depredations,  was  defeated  here  by  the  royal  troops,  and  driven  into 
the  mountains.  A  singular  bird’s  eye  view  of  Usk  is  seen  from  the  ter¬ 
race,  on  the  outside  of  the  castle,  under  the  ivy-mantled  tower,  which 
overhangs  the  brow  of  the  precipice.  The  town  occupies  a  level,  and  not 


USK. 


624 

a  single  building  seems  to  stand  upon  the  smallest  elevation ;  the  houses 
are  intermixed  with  fields.  The  white  church  of  Llanbadog,  which  stands 
upon  the  opposite  bank^  apparently  included  within  the  precincts  of  the 
town  j  the  river  enhances  the  beauty  of  the  circumjacent  scenery.  The 
Church  is  ancient_,  apparently  of  the  Anglo-Norman  era_,  and  has  been 
much  larger.  The  square  embattled  tower,  which  now  stands  at  the  b. 
end,  was  central,  communicating  with  a  transept  and  choir.  Four  pointed 
arches  separate  the  nave  from  a  n.  aisle  ;  the  windows  are  in  the  orna¬ 
mented  Gothic  or  Norman  style  ;  the  porches  are  in  the  same  style,  but 
not  elegant.  In  the  church  is  a  long  and  narrow  inscribed  brass  plate, 
formerly  chained  to  the  wall,  now  nailed  upon  the  top  of  the  partition  be¬ 
tween  two  pews  near  the  chancel.  Some  have  supposed  this  inscription 
is  a  mixture  of  Latin  and  English,  but  Mr,  Owen  says  the  language  is  a 
dialect  of  Gwent,  used  in  the  middle  ages.  A  copy  appears  of  it  in  Gough’s 
Camden,  vol.  iv.,  p.  115.  From  Harris  it  reads  thus:  — 

“  Nole  clode  yr  ethrode  yar  Ileyn  aduocade  Hawn  hade  llandeyn 
Abaruour  bede  breynt  a  pile  ty  n  ev  aro  ty  hauabe, 

Setiff  sun  o  eir  sinn  a  scadam  yske  eval  huske 

Deke  kummode  doctor  Kymmen  llena  loc  i  Hawn  oleue. 

Thus  translated  :  — 

]\Iark  this  object  of  fame,  to  the  disgrace  of  the  blade ; 

Were  he  not  cover’d,  London  would  be  in  difficulty. 

Then  let  us  consecrate  the  grave  of  Briant  son  of  Llydd, 

Who  in  judgment  was  an  elder; 

Solomon,  profound  of  word  was  be  ; 

And  the  sod  of  Isca  his  bed  of  sleep  ! 

Ardently  he  would  reconcile  the  eloquent,  and  the  wise; 

The  clergy  and  the  laity  would  be  fully  illumined.” 

The  church  belongs  to  the  Priory,  of  which  the  remains  still  exist  on  the 
s.  E.  side  of  the  tower.  A  circular  arched  portal  leads  from  the  church¬ 
yard  through  the  court  to  an  ancient  edifice  formerly  the  property  of  Mrs. 
Jeffery,  which  is  now  a  farm-house.  It  was  a  priory  founded  by  the  earls 
of  Clare  about  1236.  An  apartment  upon  the  first  floor  is  ornamented  with 
thirty  devices  and  emblazoned  coats  of  arms.  There  was  here  a  ‘‘  Divinity 
School,”  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Rev.  John  Saunders.  Part  of 
the  common  Prison,  situated  near  the  bridge,  was  formerly  an  ancient 
chapel ;  the  pointed  or  Norman  doorway,  which  formed  the  s.  entrance,  yet 
remains.  The  artist  will  find  some  good  subjects  for  his  pencil  in  the 
priory  gateway,  bridge,  and  castle.  The  surrounding  scenery  is  also  beau¬ 
tiful.  The  river  which  gives  name  to  this  place  is  a  clear  stream  richly 
skirted  with  wood,  and  the  mountains  which  stretch  towards  Abergavenny 
and  Pont-y-Pool,  form  a  magnificent  background.  The  Usk  has  its  source 
in  the  black  mountains  of  Brecknockshire,  and  entering  Monmouthshire  at 
Llangrunny,  it  flows  in  a  s.  direction,  including  a  beautiful  valley,  rivaling 
the  most  celebrated  Swiss  or  Italian  scenery.  The  river  is  navigable 
for  barges  up  to  Tredonock  bridge.  In  the  vicinity  of  tJsk  are  three 
ancient  encampments.  Craig-y-Gaercyd,  supposed  to  be  Roman,  is  situ¬ 
ated  2  m.  N.  w.  from  Usk,  to  the  e.  of  Pont-y-Pool  road,  upon  the  brow  of  a 
precipice  overhanging  the  r.  bank  of  the  Usk  ;  the  site  is  overgrown  with 
thickets  ;  the  entrenchments  in  many  places  are  30  ft.  deep.  Several 
tumuli  are  within  the  area,  from  15  to  20  ft.  in  height.  Mr.  Coxe  on 
visiting  this  encampment  passed  the  small  torrent  Berddin,  from  which 
some  writers  have  derived  the  name  of  Burrium,  being  placed  at  its  con- 


USK. 


625 


fluence  witli  the  Usk.  Two  other  camps  are  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river^  e.  of  the  high  road  leading  from  Usk  to  Abergavenny.  That  of 
Campwood,  2  m.  from  the  town^  above  the  wild  and  sequestered  common  of 
Gwhelwg,  is  of  an  oval  shape,  inclosed  by  a  single  fosse  and  vallum  700 
yards  in  circumference,  wholly  overgrown  with  wood.  The  encampment 
of  Coed-y-Bunedd  is  formed  upon  the  summit  of  a  commanding  eminence, 
at  the  extremity  of  Clytha  Hills,  5  m.  from  Usk,  and  not  far  from  the  junc¬ 
tion  of  the  Usk  road  with  that  leading  from  Monmouth  to  Abergavenny.  It 
is  480  yards  in  circumference  ;  the  w.  and  n.  sides  are  precipitous,  bounded 
by  one  entrenchment ;  the  other  sides  are  fortified  with  triple  ditches  and 
ramparts.  The  entrance  is  covered  by  a  tumulus,  and  some  foundations  of 
towers  at  each  end  yet  remain.  It  was  originally  strengthened  with  walls. 
Just  beyond  its  n.  extremity,  nearly  upon  the  verge  of  the  eminence,  is  a 
tuft  of  trees,  forming  a  conspicuous  object  from  the  subjacent  country. 
The  w.  side  overhangs  the  Usk,  and  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  n. 
parts  of  the  county.  (^Coooe,  p.  134.) 

In  the  parish  church  of  Tredonock,  upon  the  w.  hank  of  the  Usk,  mid¬ 
way  to  Caerleon,  is  a  Roman  inscription  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  a 
soldier  of  the  second  Augustan  legion.  This  sepulchral  stone  is  3  ft. 
square,  inscribed  d.  m.  jul.  julianus  mil.  leg.  ii.  Aug.  stip.  xviii. 
ARMOR,  xl.  Hic  SITUS  EST  cvRA  AGENTE  AMANDA  coNJUGE.  It  is  rendered 
thus:  “  Diis  manibus,  Julius  Julianus,  miles  legionis  secundae  August®  sti- 
pendiorum  octodecim  armorum  quadraginta  hic  situs  est,  cura  agente  amanda 
conjuge.” 

A  few  fields  e.  from  Usk,  on  the  old  Monmouth  lower  road,  is  a  curious 
antique  Bath,  to  which  have  been  attributed  extraordinary  properties. 

To  Caerleon  cross  the  Usk  to  Llanbadog,  3  fur.  (On  the  r.  Llangybi 
Castle.)  Llangyhi,  m.  (On  the  r.  Caregworth  House.^  Llanhenog^ 
3|  m.  Cross  the  Torfaen  river,  which  falls  into  the  Usk  at  Caerleon. 

On  the  road  to  Abergavenny,’ a  slight  deviation  may  be  made  to  the  1.  to 
Trostrey  House,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  family  of  Hughes,  now  attached  to 
a  farm.  The  church  of  Trostrey  stands  upon  a  gentle  rise  in  the  midst  of 
wood,  remote  from  any  habitation,  and,  in  a  situation  extremely  wild  and 
romantic,  seems  rather  the  solitary  chapel  of  a  hermit  than  the  church  of  a 
cultivated  district.  The  church  of  Kemmys  Commander,  3  m.  is  supposed 
to  derive  the  name  from  Edward  Kemmys,  commander  of  the  army  under 
Hru  de  Baladun  at  the  conquest  of  Upper  Gwent,  and  is  constructed  in  the 
Norman  or  pointed  style.  It  is  small,  its  form  simple,  with  a  low  belfry 
In  the  yard  is  a  singular  phenomenon  ;  within  a  hollow  yew  tree  15  ft.  in. 
girth,  is  enclosed  an  oak  not  less  than  7  ft.  in  circumference.  Keeping 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Usk,  distant  3  m.,  are  the  Trostrey  Iron  Works.  On 
the  direct  turnpike  road  occurs  Bettws  Newydd.  Beyond  this  place  the 
road  forms  a  gentle  rise,  from  which  may  be  caught  a  view  of  the  romantic 
cluster  of  mountains  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Abergavenny.  At  Clytha 
Gateway  the  road  joins  that  from  Ragland.  Clytha  Castle,  2  m.  (On  the 
r.  LlansanfFraid  ;  on  the  other  side  the  river  to  the  1.  is  Llanafer  and  Pont- 
y-Goitre.  A  little  way  beyond  is  seen  Llanafer  House,  B.  Waddington,  Esq.  ; 
Coldhrook  Park,  on  the  r.,  is  delightfully  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Little 
Skyrrid,  in  the  midst  of  grounds  beautifully  diversified  and  richly  clothed 
with  oak,  beech,  and  elm.  It  has  been  the  the  distinguished  residence  of  two 
persons  equally  memorable  in  their  time ;  Sir  Bichard  Herbert  the  intrepid 
soldier  and  flower  of  chivalry,  beheaded  at  Banbury,  1460;  and  Sir  Charles 
Hanbury  Williams,  the  polished  courtier,  and  the  votary  of  wit  and  pleasure. 
The  house  was  originally  an  irregular  edifice,  with  a  tower  at  each  angle ; 

s  s 


WELSHPOOL. 


626 


the  N.  front  with  a  elegant  Doric  portico^  was  constructed  by  Sir  Charles. 
It  contains  some  family  and  other  portraits.  (See  Coxes  Monmouthshire, 
p.  270.)  Join  the  turnpike-road  leading  from  Newport  and  Pont-y-Pool, 
distant  from  Abergavenny  1  m.  The  approach  to  Abergavenny  from  the 
s.  is  extremely  pleasing.  It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a  situation  more 
fortunately  disposed.  It  seems  embosomed  among  hills  formed  to  shelter  or 
to  shade.  The  lofty  mountains  in  the  horizon  are  majestic  and  sublime. 

The  valley  of  Usk  is  equal  to  any  other  in  Wales^,  both  as  to  extent  and 
beauty and  is  much  diversified  between  Abergavenny  and  Brecon. 


To  Ragland,  5  miles.  Coxe;  Barber;  Skrine. 

Abergavenny,  11  miles.  Warner. 

Back  to  Newport,  lOi  miles.  Wyndham. 

To  Caerleon,  71  miles.  Manby. 

Chepstow,  14  miles. 


To  New  Passage,  13|  miles. 
Pencoed  Castle,  2  miles. 
Monmouth,  13  miles. 
Caerwent,  9  miles. 


WELSHPOOL. 


From  Montgomery,  8  miles.  Pennant ;  Bingley ; 
Pugh. 

Shrewsbury,  18  miles.  Evans. 


From  Llan-y-Mynach,  by  canal,  12  m.  Warner. 
Llanfyllin,  12  miles.  Wyndham  ;  Skrine. 
Oswestry,  16  miles. 


WELSHPOOL  is  a  borough,  market,  and  assize  town  on  the  road  from 
Shrewsbury  to  Aberystwith,  in  Montgomeryshire,  so  called  to  distinguish  it 
from  Pool  in  Dorsetshire.  Its  original  appellation  was  Trellyn,  the  Town 
beside  the  Lake ;  ”  a  sheet  of  water,  formerly  upon  the  waste,  but  is  now 
within  the  inclosure  of  Powis  Park,  called  Llyn-du,  or  Llyndy  Pool.  Its 
average  depth  is  300  ft. ;  it  is  commonly  believed  to  be  unfathomable,  and 
respecting  it  there  is  a  prophecy  that  it  will  hereafter  overflow  the  town. 
Welshpool  consists  of  one  long,  wide,  and  spacious  street,  intersected  by 
another  at  right  angles,  besides  several  collateral  ones  of  lesser  breadth.  It 
is  well  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas.  The  houses  are  handsomely  built  with 
brick,  and  characterised  by  a  prevailing  uniformity  and  cleanliness.  The 
manners  and  language  of  the  inhabitants  are  completely  English ;  yet  2  m. 
distant  the  Welsh  language  is  universally  spoken.  This  town,  situate  partly 
in  the  hundreds  of  Pool  and  Cawrse,  lias  exclusive  jurisdiction.  The  resi¬ 
dent  population  of  the  parish  in  the  year  1801  was  2295;  in  1831  it 
amounted  in  the  Upper,  Middle,  and  Lower  divisions  to  4536.  The  Market 
for  provision  is  on  Monday  ;  and  every  alternate  Monday  for  Welsh  flannels, 
which  are  here  manufactured,  but  on  a  scale  much  inferior  to  its  extent 
either  at  Llanidloes  or  Newtown.  The  fairs  are  held  on  the  second  Mon¬ 
day  in  March,  Palm  Monday,  June  5.,  Monday  after  the  10th  of  July, 
Sept.  12.,  and  Nov.  l6.  This  place  is  governed  by  two  bailiffs,  who  act  as 
magistrates,  and  are  chosen  annually;  a  recorder,  town-clerk,  and  burgesses. 
The  Church,  originally  dedicated  to  Cynfelyn,  afterwards  to  St.  Mary,  is 
built  in  the  pointed  style,  but  not  ancient.  It  is  singularly  placed  at  the 
bottom  of  a  hill,  and  the  cemetery  nearly  equals  the  height  of  the  building. 
The  living  is  a  discharged  vicarage,  with  the  perpetual  curacy  of  Butting- 
ton  attached;  the  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  patron.  Among  its  sacramental  orna¬ 
ments  there  is  a  chalice  of  pure  gold,  which  holds  a  quart,  value  170/. 

The  situation  of  the  Church  intended  to  be  erected,  to  commemorate  the 
coming-of-age  of  Lord  Clive,  is  on  a  commanding  eminence,  on  the  w.  side 
of  the  town,  in  a  direct  line  with  the  parish  church.  On  the  w.  and  s.w. 
it  is  bounded  by  Powis  Castle  Park ;  the  castle  forming  a  singularly  grand 
and  imposing  prospect  in  the  distance.  Southward,  a  very  extensive  range 
of  finely  cultivated  country  extends  towards  the  Long  Mountain.  North- 


WELSHPOOL. 


627 

ward  is  a  richly-wooded  rock  called  The  Standard/’  from  whence  the 
stone  is  procured  for  building  the  edifice.  The  structure  will  be  strictly 
Norman  in  its  architecture,  without  much  enrichment  of  ornament.  The 
elevation  is  beautiful  in  design,  its  length  being  80  ft.,  with  a  bold  tower  at 
one  angle.  The  site  is  given  by  the  Earl  of  Powis.  Four  thousand  pounds 
have  been  subscribed  towards  the  erection  of  this  pious  memorial  of  his 
lordship’s  majority. 

According  to  Owen,  Dr.  Wm.  Morgan  was  vicar  of  this  church ;  he  was 
afterwards  preferred  to  Llanrhaiadyr  Mochnant ;  created  Bishop  of  Llan- 
daff  in  1595,  and  translated  to  St.  Asaph  in  I6OI,  where  he  died  in  1604. 
He  was  the  principal  translator  of  the  Welsh  bible,  1588.  This  edition 
was  revised  by  Dr.  Richard  Parry,  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  in  l604,  assisted 
by  Dr.  John  Davies,  and  reprinted  in  1620;  it  is  the  version  now  in  use. 
Here  is  a  small  endowment  for  a  Free  School ;  and  a  National  School  was 
erected  in  1821  for  both  sexes,  on  the  road  to  Newtown,  affording  a  gra¬ 
tuitous  instruction  to  250  children  of  both  sexes.  The  County  Hall  is  a 
new  building,  stationed  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  erected  at  the  expense  of 
a  few  gentlemen,  for  the  purpose  of  easing  the  county  rate,  previously  much 
burdened  by  levies.  The  structure  presents  an  elegant  front,  with  a  colon¬ 
nade  and  pilasters  of  stone.  The  upper  apartments  are  appropriated  to  the 
administration  of  justice.  Beneath  is  a  spacious  Corn  Market,  another  space 
for  the  sale  of  miscellaneous  articles,  and  an  ample  court  for  holding  the 
assizes  or  great  sessions.  The  County  Hall  Room  is  on  the  second  floor, 
measuring  64  ft.  by  25  ft.,  and  18  ft.  high.  A  room  appropriated  to  the 
grand  jury.  The  Severn  is  navigable  for  small  barges  as  far  as  Pool  Stake, 
m.  from  the  town,  and  upwards  of  200  m.  from  its  confluence  with  the 
Bristol  channel.  A  canal  joins  that  of  Ellesmere  near  Hordly,  and  extends 
in  the  opposite  direction  to  Newtown.  The  principal  Inns  are  the  Oak  and 
the  Bear. 

In  ditches  on  the  road  between  Pool  Quay  and  the  turnpike  road  leading 
to  the  town  grows  Huttonia  palustris. 

At  a  short  distance  from  Welshpool  lies  the  pleasing  Vale  of  Cyfeiliog. 
Below  the  Breiddin  Hills  are  the  ruins  of  Strata  Marcella,  or  Ystrad  Mar- 
chell,  a  Cistercian  monastery  founded  by  Owain  Cyfeiliog  in  1170.  Here 
the  botanist  will  find  Pyrus  Aria,  Pteris  crispa.  Cotyledon  lutea,  Sedum 
rupestre,  Papaver  cambricum,  Chlora  perfoliata,  and  Lychnis  Viscaria. 

To  the  N.  of  Welshpool  rises  abruptly  from  the  vale  Moel-y-golfa, 
Craig  Breiddin,  Cefn-y-Gastell,  the  trifid  summits  of  a  rock  more  than  1000 
ft.  in  height.  On  the  highest  peak  the  gratitude  of  the  country  erected  an 
obelisk,  Rodney’s  Pillar,  to  commemorate  the  important  victory  obtained  by 
that  admiral  over  the  French  fleet  in  1782.  The  vale  of  Montgomery  and 
Shrewsbury  extend  beneath,  through  which  the  placid  waters  of  the  Severn 
beautifully  meander.  The  distant  views  are  remarkably  fine,  including  the 
solitary  Wrekin,  upon  the  plain  of  Salop;  the  extensive  chain  of  the  contiguous 
mountains;  the  summits  of  Snowdon  to  the  n.,  and  Cader  Idris  to  the  w. 
Upon  the  Breiddin  Hill  grow  Veronica  hybrida,  Potentilla  rupestris ;  and 
on  the  steepest  parts  Pyrus  Aria.  Near  Rodney’s  Pillar,  Botrychium  Lunaria. 
Its  name  is  taken  from  the  shape  of  its  leaves ;  these,  when  gathered  by 
moonlight,  were  once  thought  to  do  wonders.  Old  Gerard  says,  “  it  will 
loose  locks,  and  make  them  fall  from  the  feet  of  horses  that  do  grase  where 
it  doth  grow.” 

A  m.  N.  E.  of  Welshpool,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Severn,  is  Butting- 
ton,  the  Butdigingtune  of  the  Saxons.  Here,  in  894,  the  Danes,  under 
Hesten,  took  their  station  ;  but  the  generals  of  King  Alfred  instantly  blocked 

s  s  2 


628 


WELSHPOOL. 


them  up  ;  reduced  thus  to  famine  and  despair^  they  attempted  to  force  their 
way  through  the  Saxons^  who  put  them  to  the  sword. 

At  the  distance  of  1  m.^  in  a  conspicuous  situation,  near  the  road  from 
Montgomery^  stands  Powis  Castle,  or  Castell  Coch^  originally  built  of  red 
sandstone.  In  1823  the  entire  building_,  however^  underwent  a  thorough 
repair,  with  extensive  improvements,  on  a  tasteful  and  judicious  plan,  under 
the  direction  of  its  present  proprietor,  Edward  Herbert,  Earl  of  Powis.  The 
principal  entrance  is  a  gateway  between  two  massive  round  towers.  In  front 
two  immense  terraces,  rising  one  above  another,  form  the  ascent  by  means  of 
a  vast  flight  of  steps.  These  are  ornamented  with  vases,  statues,  antique  re¬ 
mains,  &c.  Several  other  towers  are  flanked  with  semicircular  bastions.  In 
the  centre  of  the  building,  tlirough  a  small  court,  is  a  covered  walk  or  colon¬ 
nade.  Opposite,  on  entering,  is  a  figure  of  Hercules ;  and  on  the  1.  is  a 
handsome  staircase,  the  walls  and  ceiling  of  which  were  painted  by  Lan- 
scrome  in  1705.  Upon  the  walls  appear  the  figures  of  Neptune,  Am  phi- 
trite,  Apollo,  Venus,  Aurora,  Poetry,  Painting,  &c.  The  ceiling  represents 
the  coronation  of  Queen  Anne.  At  the  bottom  of  the  staircase,  seated  upon 
a  pedestal  of  3  ft.  in  height,  brought  from  Herculaneum,  is  a  curious  marble 
figure  of  Cybele,  holding  a  globe.  On  the  1.  is  a  room  in  which  is  a  paint¬ 
ing  of  Samson  betrayed  by  the  Philistines,  and  another  of  St.  Catherine,  in 
the  act  of  receiving  a  ring  from  Christ. 

The  dining-room  and  state  bedroom  are  gloomy ;  hut  the  saloon  and  li¬ 
brary  are  delightfully  lighted.  The  view  from  the  former  embraces  the 
richly  wooded  vale  of  the  Severn,  backed  by  the  Breiddin  hills.  The  ter¬ 
race  below  is  a  noble,  though  antiquated  appendage.  These  apartments 
contain  some  valuable  antiques.  The  furniture  in  most  of  the  rooms  is  in 
a  style  of  ancient  elegance ;  and  in  some  of  them  are  remains  of  old  and 
faded  tapestry.  Up  stairs,  in  the  tapestry-room,  over  the  door,  is  a  fine 
painting  of  Cleopatra  dissolving  the  pearl  ;  another,  well  executed,  of  Venus 
and  Cupid ;  and  a  Salutation  of  superior  excellence.  The  tapestry  at  the 
hexagonal  bedchamber  represents  several  parts  of  the  life  of  Nebuchadnezzar. 
In  the  drawing-room  is  a  handsome  plaster  of  Paris  ceiling,  represent¬ 
ing  the  twelve  signs  of  the  zodiac,  with  Phoebus  in  his  chariot.  In  a  small 
breakfast  room  are  several  painted  panels,  with  different  subjects.  In 
the  large  parlour  within  the  dwelling-house  is  a  full-length  picture  of  Roger 
Palmer,  Earl  of  Castlemain,  who  obtained  the  peerage  by  the  influence  of 
his  wife,  a  mistress  of  Charles  II.,  the  notorious  Duchess  of  Cleveland.  He 
is  represented  in  the  act  of  dictating  to  his  secretary.  A  gallery  leading  to  the 
sleeping  rooms  is  adorned  with  family  portraits.  In  one  of  these  the  three 
daughters  of  William  the  second  Marquess  of  Powis,  are  represented,  the  first 
as  Truth  ;  Lady  Throgmorton  appears  as  Charity  ;  Lady  Mary  as  Minerva ; 
and  Justice  is  driving  away  Envy,  Malice,  and  other  vices.  Lady  Mary 
made  a  considerable  figure  in  the  world.  She  engaged  deeply  in  the  Mis¬ 
sissippi  scheme,  endeavoured  to  become  consort  to  the  late  Pretender,  and, 
with  a  noble  adventurer,  retired  to  Spain,  to  search  for  gold  in  the  mines  of 
the  Asturias.  In  a  detached  building,  more  recent  than  the  castle,  is  a  col¬ 
lection  of  60  or  70  pictures.  Some  of  these  are  by  the  first  masters,  Poussin, 
Claude,  Rubens,  Bassano,  Vleiger,  Canaletti,  Cuyp,  &c.  The  Virgin  and 
Child  is  by  Carlo  Dolce  ;  three  owls  by  Rubens;  an  ancient  painting  in  fresco, 
was  brought  from  Pompeii.  The  portrait  of  the  late  Lord  Clive  is  by  Dance. 
In  an  adjoining  closet  is  the  model  of  an  elephant,  covered  with  a  coat  of 
mail,  with  two  Indians  upon  its  back,  brought  from  India.  Gardens  have 
been  laid  out  with  parallel  terraces,  and  squared  slopes.  The  ancient  water¬ 
works  and  clipped  shrubs  are  removed.  The  Park,  formed  of  spacious  and 


WELSHPOOL. 


629 

verdant  lawns^  with  swelling  hills,,  extends  to  the  town,  and  is  excellently 
wooded.  At  the  highest  elevation  is  a  distant  view  of  Plinlimmon,  Cader 
Idris,  Snowdon,  Aranmowddy,  &c.  ;  an  index  points  to  each  of  these  emi¬ 
nences.  A  road  is  tastefully  conducted  to  the  castle,  which  is  occasion¬ 
ally  seen  and  lost  in  the  approach. 

The  most  remote  historical  notice  of  this  place  is  said  to  commence 
about  the  year  1109;,  which  period  Cadwgan  ap  Bleddyn  ap  Cynfyn 
seeking  at  Trallyn,  now  Pool,  an  asylum  from  his  relatives,  began  to 
erect  a  castle,  but  being  treacherously  murdered  by  his  nephew  Madog,  the 
structure  was  left  unfinished.  (See  Wynne,  1S7.)  It  was  continued  by 
Gwynwynwyn,  who  succeeded  his  father  Owain  Cyfeiliog,  in  the  govern¬ 
ment  of  this  part  of  Powisland.  He  was  besieged  in  the  year  1191,  and  re¬ 
signed  the  castle  to  Hubert,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  ;  but  shortly  after, 
Gwynwynwyn  attacked  and  recovered  it.  His  son  GryfFydd  afterwards 
ascended  the  throne  of  Powis,  holding  his  territory  in  capite  from  the  crown, 
under  King  John.  Incensed  at  this  prince’s  unnatural  conduct,  Llywelyn  ap 
lorwerth  took  and  dismantled  this  fortress  in  the  year  1233.  Afterwards  the 
grandson  of  Gwynwynwyn,Owain  ap  Gryffydd,  under  English  protection,  re¬ 
mained  in  possession  of  the  place.  On  his  demise  he  left  his  daughter,  Hawise 
Gadarn,  to  represent  his  right,  whose  claims  were  disputed  on  the  plea  that  no 
female  could  become  heiress  to  the  throne,  a  political  maxim  which  the  British 
monarchs  derived  from  a  code  enacted  by  Pharamond,  king  of  the  Franks. 
Under  these  circumstances,  Hawise  made  the  reigning  monarch  her  friend, 
and  married  John  de  Charlton,  whom  the  king  appointed  Baron  Powis,  and 
Valectus  Domini  Regis.  In  their  posterity  the  barony  and  estates  continued 
for  several  generations.  Sir  John  Grey  of  Heton  in  Northumberland,  by 
his  marriage  with  Jane,  eldest  daughter  of  Lord  Edward  Powis,  next  pos¬ 
sessed  it  as  a  moiety  of  the  estate.  He  unfortunately  fell  at  Baugee  in 
1421.  In  the  29th  year  of  Elizabeth,  Edward  Grey  conj^eyed  by  purchase 
the  lordship  and  castle  of  Powis  to  Sir  Edward^Herbert,  second  son  of  the 
chivalrous  William  Earl  of  Pembroke.  He,  dying,  was  buried  in  the  church 
of  Pool,  and  w^as  succeeded  by  his  son  William.  Peiroy,  Lord  Powis,  on 
the  breaking  out  of  the  civil  war,  declared  in  favour  of  royalty,  but  was 
compelled  to  surrender  to  the  parliamentary  army  under  general  Sir  Thomas 
Myddleton  in  October,  l644.  On  this  event  all  his  fine  estates  were  con¬ 
fiscated,  but  he  obtained  repossession  by  compounding  for  them.  {Towell, 
217-  288.)  This  noble  mansion  still  remains  in  the  possession  of  the  Her¬ 
berts,  being  the  property  of  Edward  Herbert,  son  of  the  late  Edward  Earl 
of  Powis,  who,  in  1784,  married  Henrietta  Antonia  Herbert,  daughter  of 
Henry  Arthur,  Earl  of  Powis,  and  sister  to  George  Edward  Henry  Arthur, 
the  last  earl,  in  whom  the  title  became  extinct.  The  late  earl  was  created  by 
George  III.  May  12.  1804. 

The  road  to  Llanfair  lies  through  a  hilly,  yet  w'ell  cultivated  country. 
Proceeding  2|  m.,  a  house  on  the  r.  under  an  ancient  camp,  is  called  Sylvan, 
and  another,  a  mile  beyond,  Hengwm  ;  on  the  opposite  side  is  Dollarddyn 
Hall;  whence  ^-m.  on  the  road  to  Montgomery,  on  the  1.  is  Castell  Caer- 
Einion.  To  the  r.,  1  m.,  is  Pen-y-Herber, 

On  the  road  to  Llan-y-Mynacii,  distant  9  na.,  pass  the  Breiddin  hills,  to 
the  r.  This  district  is  agreeably  broken  into  gentle  elevations,  well  wooded. 
Pass  by  Garth,  a  seat  of  the  Myttons,  to  Guilsfield  village  and  church, 
pleasingly  situated  under  the  hills.  Thence  6  m.  to  Llandysilio  ;  soon  after 
cross  the  river  Vyrnwy  by  a  ferry.  Lhvyn-y-groes  lies  a  little  to  the  n.  e., 
upon  the  hanks  of  the  Severn,  the  residence  of  the  late  ingenious  Mr.  Evans, 
who  published  a  valuable  9  sheet  map  of  North  Wales ;  or,  at  the  distance 

s  s  3 


630 


WELSHPOOL. 


of  1  m.  from  Llan-y-Mynach^  instead  of  the  direct  road  to  the  ferry,  turn  to 
the  1.  and  go  circuitously  over  the  bridge. 

On  the  road  to  Montgomery,  Powis  Castle  appears  to  great  advantage. 
Proceed  over  a  fine  level  country  surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  distant 
hills.  At  the  distance  of  m.  turn  to  the  1.  and  cross  the  Severn  upon  a 
good  bridge,  to  the  village  of  Leighton.  Proceed  2^m.  to  Forden  ;  on  the 
r.  catch  a  Nantcribba  Hall,  Col.  Davies.  About  2  m.  further 

cross  the  Camlad  river,  over  a  pleasing  tract  of  undulating  country.  A 
'well-built  Inn  is  situated  about  midway.  On  approaching  Montgomery, 
its  ruined  castle,  frowning  even  in  decay,  appears  upon  a  high  rock  ;  and 
upon  a  higher  eminence  are  the  remains  of  Fridd  Faldwyn,  an  ancient 
British  fortification. 

Travellers  who  do  not  pass  hence  to  Llanfatr  frequently  take  Castell  Caer 
Einion  on  a  circuitous  route  to  Montgomery.  It  lies  in  a  s.  w.  direction 
4  m.  distant  from  \Telshpool.  Of  this  Roman  fortress  there  are  few 
remains.  4  m.  in  a  s.  direction  from  these  remains,  is  the  pleasing  village 
of  Berriew,  or  Aber  Rhiw,  the  Junction  of  the  River  Rhiw,”  where  sim¬ 
plicity  seems  combined  with  content  and  plenty.  A  neat  modern  church, 
with  a  square  tower,  surmounted  with  pinnacles,  the  Parsonage,  and  a  ve¬ 
nerable  mansion  at  the  termination  of  an  avenue  of  aged  trees,  the  seat  of 
the  late  Arthur  Blaney,  Esq.,  form  its  principal  attractions.  This  gentleman 
was  a  descendant  from  Broch'vyel  ys  Chythrog  j  also  the  patron  and  friend 
of  a  numerous  tenantry.  The  village  presents  a  cheerful  and  pleasing  ap¬ 
pearance,  containing  several  good  houses  and  neat  whitewashed  cottages. 
It  is  chiefly  in  the  hundred  of  Newtown,  and  partly  in  that  of  Cawrse ;  the 
living  is  in  the  patronage  of  the  Bishop  of  St.  Asaph.  The  church  is  de¬ 
dicated  to  St.  Beuno,  who  is  thought  to  have  been  nearly  allied  to  Cattwg 
and  Kentigern  ;  he  founded  a  religious  society  at  Clynog  Fawr  in  Caer¬ 
narvonshire  about  6l6.  Bettws,  in  Montgomeryshire,  is  consecrated  to  the 
same  British  saint.  His  festival  is  April  21.,  and  a  stone  is  still  standing 
near  the  Severn  to  which  his  name  is  attached,  i.  e.  Maen  Beuno,  1  m.  from 
the  church.  In  1801  the  population  of  this  parish,  consisting  of  the  town¬ 
ships  of  Aber  Rhiw,  Allt  Brithdir,  Bryncamisir,  Cil,  Cil  Cychwyn,  Faenor, 
Fridd,  Garthmill,  Llan  Dinier,  Llifior,  Pen-Rhyn,  and  Trwst  Llywelyn, 
was  2059.  It  is  5  m.  s.  by  w.  from  WelshpooL  Vaenor  Park,  once  the 
seat  of  the  Viscounts  Hereford,  is  now  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Winder. 
The  petty  sessions  for  the  lower  division  of  the  hundred  of  Newtown  are  held 
at  Berriew.  The  poor  are  maintained  by  an  act  of  incorporation  in  32  Geo.  III. 
at  Forden.  This  forms  an  excellent  angling  station.  In  the  township 
of  Allt,  between  the  Welshpool  and  canal,  is  a  tumulus.  On  the  summit 
of  Cefn-yr-allt  are  the  remains  of  a  British  encampment;  another  also  occurs 
near  the  road  leading  to  Castell  Caer  Einion  in  the  township  of  Fridd. 
Bod  Heilin,  the  seat  of  J.  Humphries,  Esq.,  is  romantically  situated  on  a 
well-wooded  eminence,  the  summit  of  which  commands  a  delightful  view  of 
the  vales  of  Severn  and  Montgomery.  The  grounds  of  Glan-Severn  are 
beautifully  laid  out.  The  mansion  is  a  handsome  stone  structure  in  the 
possession  of  W.  Owen,  Esq. 

An  Eisteddvod  was  held  at  Welshpool,  September  8.  1824. 

To  Newtown,  at  Saw  Mill,  1  m.,  cross  the  Montgomery  Canal.  (About 

m.  from  Pool,  on  the  1.  is  a  road  to  Montgomery,  6^  m.)  Pass  Powis 
Castle,  Dise7dh,  and  Belan  on  the  r.,  to  Llwynderw  and  Tyn-y-dol,  H  m. 
Beyond,  2^m.,  is  a  road  on  the  1.  to  a  ferry  across  the  Severn  to  Forden 
Chapel  and  Nantcrihha  ;  the  latter  is  stationed  upon  the  line  of  OfFa’s  Dike, 
Cross  the  IMontgomery  canal,  leaving  Berriew  on  the  r.  Cross  the  Rhiw 


WELSHPOOL. 


631 


to  Efel-fach,  2  m.  Here  is  a  house  belonging  to  Arthur  Davies,  Esq.,  and 
1  m.  on  the  r.  Vaenor  Park,  Mrs.  Winder,  and  Garthmill  Hall,  Mrs.  Jones, 
1  m.  Pass  Llandinier  on  the  r.,  and  Pen-llwyn  with  Plus  Meredith  on  the 
1.  not  far  distant ;  J  m.  further  on  the  r.  Pennant,  Gian  Hafren,  and 
Llwyngodig ;  to  the!.,  on  the  way  to  a  bridge  to  Brynderwen,  3  m.  Cross 
the  Mule  to  Abermule,^m.  Neuaddfraith,  l|^m.  Pennant,  John  Burpley 
Williams,  Esq.  ^  m. ;  Rock  House,  Capt.W.  Jones  ;  Llanllwchaiarn,  1^  m. 
Newtown,  l|m. 

Meandering  with  the  Severn  to  Shrewsbury,  cross  at  Buttington  Bridge. 
(See  p.  627-)  At  this  place  Offas  Dike  reaches  to  the  Severn,  and  re- appears 
some  miles  below  at  Rhetescin.  The  vicinity  of  the  1.  bank  is  ornamented  by 
the  seats  of  Cathroj  Garth,  the  Rev.  Richard  My  tton ;  Trelydan,  Clifton  Jukes, 
Esq.  ;  and  Trawscoed,  Thomas  Lloyd,  Esq.  At  the  Pool  Quay,  a  little  below, 
a  fine  view  is  caught  of  the  Breiddin  mountains.  From  the  elevated  peak 
of  Moel-y-golfa  is  a  most  delightful  prospect.  Hence  are  distinctly  seen  the 
vales  of  the  Severn,  Vyrnwy,  and  Tanet ;  with  Plinlimmon,  Cader  Idris, 
and  Arran-ben-llyn,  the  pointed  tops  of  which  finely  diversify  the  ex¬ 
tensive  horizon.  At  Old  Mills  the  current  is  so  serpentine  as  to  occupy 
the  extent  of  a  mile  within  the  actual  distance  of  50  yards.  Criggion 
Hall,  Valentine  Vickers,  Esq.  2  m.  At  the  small  village  and  beautiful 
angling  station  of  Llandrinio,  6  m.,  one  of  the  roads  from  Llanfyllin 
to  Shrewsbury  crosses  the  Severn  by  a  handsome  stone  bridge  of  three 
arches,  the  first  stone  bridge  which  occurred  over  the  Severn  from  its 
source  upon  Plinlimmon.  At  Cymmerall,  2  m.,  the  Vyrnwy  falls  into 
the  Severn.  Melverley  lies  upon  the  e.  bank  of  the  Vyrnwy,  m.  from 
the  junction  of  that  river  with  the  Severn.  On  the  r.  by  the  high 
road  to  Shrewsbury,  occurs  Loton,  Sir  Baldwyn  Leighton,  Bart. ;  this  and 
the  neighbouring  church  of  the  village  of  Alherbury,  Rev.  Richard  Webster 
Huntley,  supply  objects  which  add  greatly  to  the  beautiful  scenery  of 
the  district.  A  large  square  tower  remains  of  Alberbury  Castle,  built  by 
the  family  of  Fitz-Warin,  in  the  time  of  Richard  I.  The  summit  of 
the  church  tower  is  crowned  with  a  triangular  roof.  Winnington,  in 
this  parish,  was  the  birthplace  of  Thomas  Parr,  who  died  in  1635,  aged 
152  years  and  9  nionths.  Rather  below  Alberbury  and  near  the  river, 
are  the  remains  of  White  Abbey,  founded  by  Fulke  Fitz-Warin.  On  the  n. 
bank  of  the  river  is  Shrawardine,  where  are  a  few  fragments  of  a  castle 
and  fortress,  which  once  belonged  to  John  Fitz-Allan,  of  Clun.  A  little 
to  the  N.  of  the  ruin  is  a  pool  of  considerable  extent.  At  Ford,  on  the 
opposite  bank,  is  a  very  ancient  little  church.  This  village  was  the  re¬ 
sidence  of  the  learned  Rev.  Francis  Leighton.  Montford,  1^  m.,  is  a 
small  village  with  a  plain  modern  stone  church,  situated  upon  a  high 
bank.  Preston  Montford,  on  the  r.,  is  the  beautiful  seat  of  Sir  Francis 
Bryan  Hill,  Bart.  At  Montford-bridge  the  great  road  from  London  to 
Holyhead  crosses  the  Severn.  Shrewsbury,  4  m. 

Angling  Stations.  —  Llandysilio,  8  m,  Llanfyllin,  12  m.  Montgomery, 
7^  m.  Trewern,  4  m. 

To  Llan-y-Mynach,  9miles.  Pennant ;  Bingley.  To  Newton,  14  miles,  Skrine. 

Llanfair,  7f  miles.  Evans.  Cann  Office,  13^  miles.  Pugh, 

Montgomery,  by  Powis  Castle,  8  miles.  Wynd- 

ham  ;  Warner. 


s-  s  4 


632 


WREXHAM. 

From  Ruabon,  5^  miles.  Bingley  ;  Skrine ;  Pen-  I  From  Chester,  12  miles.  Wyndham. 
nant;  Pugh.  1 

WREXHAM  is  a  considerable  market-town^  chiefly  in  the  hundred  of 
Bromfield,  an  enclosed  and  fertile  tract  in  Denbighshire.  It  is  advantage¬ 
ously  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Shrewsbury,  Welshpool,  Oswestry,  and 
Chester  roads,  in  the  centre  of  the  mining  and  manufacturing  districts  of  the 
E.  part  of  the  county. 

Wrexham  is  by  recent  enactment  made  contributary  with  Denbigh,  Holt, 
and  Ruthin,  in  the  return  of  a  parliamentary  representative,  and  is  one  of 
the  polling  places  in  the  election  of  knights  of  the  shire.  By  the  returns 
made  under  the  census  taken  in  1801,  it  contained  2575  inhabitants  ;  in 
1831,  5484. 

Wrexham  appears  to  have  been  an  ancient  town,  being  noticed  in  the  Saxon 
Chronicle  under  the  name  Wrighteleshara,  or  Writtlesbam.  The  town  was 
granted  with  the  lordship  of  Bromfield  and  Yale,  to  Earl  Warren,  in  the 
reign  of  Edward  I.,  and  Leland  describes  it  as  containing  ‘^‘^sum  mercbauntes 
and  good  brokeler  (buckler)  makers.’"  At  present,  the  principal  trade  arises 
from  its  lying  in  the  great  road  from  Shrewsbury  to  Chester.  The  High  Street, 
where  the  Markets  on  Mondays  and  Thursdays  are  held,  is  spacious,  and 
the  buildings  mostly  good.  At  the  upper  end  of  this  street  stands  a  public 
edifice  of  the  Doric  order ;  the  upper  apartment  is  used  as  a  municipal 
Hall,  and  the  piazza  below  as  a  kind  of  diurnal  mart.  Fairs  for  cattle  are 
held  March  23.,  Holy  Thursday,  June  6.,  Sept.  I9.  Wrexham  is  noted  for 
an  Annual  Fair  which  continues  fourteen  days.  The  Welsh  supply  flannels 
of  various  quality,  linsey-woolseys,  coarse  linens,  horses,  sheep,  and  black 
cattle.  Other  dealers  bring  Irish  linens,  Yorkshire  and  other  woollen 
cloths,  with  Manchester,  Sheffield,  and  Birmingham  goods  in  all  their 
varieties.  Five  extensive  areas  are  fitted  up  with  booths  and  temporary 
shops  for  the  accommodation  of  dealers  in  cattle  from  the  neighbouring  and 
distant  parts  of  the  kingdom.  This  public  mart  opens  the  23d  of  March. 
An  Agricultural  Society  was  established  here  in  the  year  179^,  consisting 
of  about  100  members,  under  the  presidency  of  Sir  W.  W.  Wynn,  Bart. 
The  premiums  were  from  one  to  five  guineas,  and  to  proprietors  silver  medals. 
The  Free  Grammar  School  was  endowed  with  18/.  per  annum  by  Valentine 
Broughton,  alderman  of  Chester,  for  the  gratuitous  instruction  of  twelve 
boys.  Certain  lands  were  left  to  the  vicar  and  churchwardens  for  the  use 
of  the  poor,  and  which,  in  1803,  amounted  to  228/.  106r.  2d.  There  is  also 
property  left  to  trustees  by  the  will  of  Dame  Dorothy  Jeffreys,  to  defray 
the  expense  of  a  parochial  school,  for  which  a  commodious  room  was 
erected  by  Sir  W.  W.  W ynn,  Bart. 

The  Church  is  a  most  elegant  structure  ;  and  may  justly  rank  with  the 
cathedrals.  It  forms  one  of  the  seiie7i  wonders  of  Wales  :  these  are  the 
mountain  of  Snowdon,  St.  Winifred’s  Well,  Overton  churchyard,  Gresford 
bells,  Llangollen  Bridge,  Py still  Rhaiadyr,  and  AVrexham  steeple.  This 
church  was  erected  upon  the  site  of  one  destroyed  by  fire,  about  the  year 
1457,  and  exhibits  a  specimen  of  design,  proportion,  and  chaste  decoration 
not  surpassed  by  any  edifice  built  in  the  time  of  Henry  VII.  It  was 


WREXHAM. 


638 


finished  about  the  year  1472^  except  the  tower^  which  was  not  completed  till 
nearly  thirty-four  years  afterwards.  During  the  civil  wars  it  was  converted 
by  the  parliamentarian  forces  into  a  prison.  This  beautiful  edifice  consists  of 
pentagonal  chancel^  two  collateral  aisles^  and  a  lofty  tower.  The  windows 
of  the  aisles  have  a  flat  pointed  arch_,  the  mullions  ornamented  at  top ;  be¬ 
tween  these  are  buttresses,  terminating  in  slender  crocketted  pinnacles.  The 
windows  of  the  clerestory  are  narrower ;  the  arches  rather  incline  to  the 
sharp  pointed  style  ;  and  the  embattled  parapet  has  diminishing  crocketted 
pinnacles,  corresponding  with  those  of  the  aisles.  The  height  of  the  tower 
is  135  ft.,  the  shape  quadrangular,  with  handsomely  set  off  abutments, 
terminating  with  crocketted  pinnacles.  The  summit  is  crowned  by  four 
pierced  lantern  turrets,  rising  24  ft.  above  the  open  wrought  balustrade. 
Statues  of  thirty  saints  are  placed  in  the  niches  of  the  buttresses;  one  of  these 
represents  the  patron,  St.  Giles,  with  a  hind  by  his  side.  The  ceiling  of 
the  roof  is  composed  of  ribs  in  oak  wainscot,  in  imitation  of  the  stone  grained 
work  of  the  antecedent  period.  The  corbels  supporting  the  bearing  timbers 
are  carved,  and  grotesque  heads  with  shields  exhibit  the  arms  of  some  who 
contributed  to  the  erection  of  the  edifice.  At  the  w.  end  of  the  nave  is  a 
grand  receding  pointed  arch,  nearly  the  height  of  the  building,  filled  with  a 
window,  once  ornamented  with  elegantly  painted  glass,  but  injured  and 
defaced.  This  loss  has  been  glaringly  compensated  by  a  few  diminutive 
figures,  &c.  in  the  upper  compartments  of  the  windows  in  the  aisles. 
The  altar-piece  is  peculiarly  beautiful.  A  fine  painting,  representing  the 
Lord’s  Supper,  by  De  Heere,  occupies  the  central  part.  A  picture  by  the 
same  artist,  of  David  playing  on  the  harp  before  Saul,  is  hung  against 
the  wall  in  the  s.  aisle.  These  paintings  were  brought  from  Rome,  and 
presented  by  Elihu  Yale,  Esq.  of  Plds  Gronw,  who  lies  under  a  plain  altar- 
tomb  in  the  cemetery,  bearing  the  following  inscription  :  — 

“  Born  in  America,  in  Europe  bred, 

In  Afric  travell’d,  and  in  Asia  wed, 

Where  long  he  liv’d  and  thriv’d ;  in  London  died. 

Much  good,  some  ill  he  did;  so  hope  all’s  even. 

And  that  his  soul  through  mercy ’s  gone  to  heaven. 

You  that  survive,  and  read,  timely  take  care 
For  this  most  cei’tain  exit  to  prepare  : 

Where  blest  in  peace  the  actions  of  the  just 
Smell  sweet  and  blossom  in  the  mouldering  dust. 


The  eagle  and  pedestal  of  brass,  forming  a  reading-desk,  w'^as  the  donation 
of  John  ap  Gryffydd  ap  Dafydd,  of  Ystifan,  in  this  neighbourhood.  Under 
the  belfry  lies  an  ancient  monument,  rescued  from  rubbish,  when  the  iron 
gates  in  the  churchyard  were  erected.  It  represents  a  knight  in  complete 
armour,  his  legs  extended,  and  resting  upon  a  couchant  dog.  An  emblem¬ 
atic  figure  personifies  a  dragon,  with  a  forked  tail  terminating  in  a  serpent’s 
head.  Upon  the  shield  is  a  lion  rampant,  with  an  inscription,  ‘^Mlic  jacet 
ap  Howel.”  Upon  an  altar-shaped  monument  in  the  chancel  lies  a  full 
robed  figure  of  Hugh  Bellot,  successively  Bishop  of  Bangor  and  Chester, 
who  died  at  Bersham,  near  this  town  in  1596'.  He  was  a  great  linguist, 
and,  in  conjunction  with  other  learned  men,  bore  a  distinguished  part  in 
translating  the  Old  and  New  Testaments  into  English.  Opposite  is  a  monu¬ 
ment  by  Roubiliac  to  Mrs.  Mary  Myddleton,  who  died  April  8.  1747j, 
aged  59,  daughter  of  Sir  Richard  Myddleton,  of  Chirk  Castle  ;  it  was 
■erected  by  Wm.  Lloyd,  Esq.  of  Bias  Power,  her  executor  and  devisee. 
This  fine  production  of  the  chisel  is  calculated  to  arrest  the  attention  of  the 


634 


WREXHAM. 


most  indifferent  observer.  A  most  beautiful  female  form_,  slightly  covered_, 
is  represented  as  in  the  act  of  rising  from  a  bursting  tomb,  roused  by  a 
noise  out  of  sleep.  Consternation  is  mingled  with  dismay  in  this  counte¬ 
nance,  yet  is  surprise  and  delight  most  admirably  mixed.  The  design  is 
evidently  taken  from  1  Cor.  xv.  52.  The  trumpet  shall  sound,  the  dead 
shall  be  raised  incorruptible.”  The  person  this  monument  is  intended  to 
represent  died  a  withered  woman,  but  she  is  judiciously  made  to  arise,  ac¬ 
cording  to  the  scripture  (Phil.  iii.  21.),  full  of  youth  and  beauty.  The 
figure  is  most  interesting  and  graceful,  the  attitude  correct,  and  the  drapery 
chaste.  In  a  word,  the  tout  ensemble  of  this  effigy  is  exquisitely  fine,  and 
may  justly  be  ranked  with  this  artist’s  statue  of  Eloquence  to  John  Duke  of 
Argyle,  in  Westminster  Abbey;  his  Handel  in  Vauxhall  Gardens;  and 
George  I.  in  the  Senate  House  at  Cambridge.  A  medallion  at  the  end  of 
the  N.  aisle,  by  the  same  artist,  contains  two  profile  likenesses,  in  strong 
relievo,  of  the  Rev.  T.  Myddleton,  and  Arabella  Hacker,  his  wife.  The 
drapery  of  this  composition  is  excellent.  Sittings  to  the  extent  of  1500 
have  been  recently  added :  of  these  900  are  free ;  towards  the  expense  of 
which  the  Church  Building  Society  contributed  200/.  The  churchyard  is 
enclosed  with  iron  rails,  and  contains  several  singular  inscriptions.  The 
following  instance  of  brevity  occurs  :  — 

Here  lies  Jane  Shore, 

I  say  no  more  ; 

Who  was  alive 
In  sixty-five. 

The  town  jurisdiction  is  conducted  by  county  magistrates,  who  hold  a 
petty  sessions  monthly.  The  Town  Hall  is  constructed  of  brick,  formerly 
open  on  the  ground  floor,  but  now  enclosed,  used  for  public  meetings,  and  as 
a  depot  for  arms.  The  County  House  of  Correction,  includes  seven  wards 
for  the  classification  of  prisoners,  who  are  allowed  a  certain  portion  of  their 
earnings.  There  are  places  of  worship  for  Baptists,  Independents,  Calvin- 
istic  and  Wesleyan  Methodists,  besides  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel. 

The  Wynnstay  Arms,  and  the  Lion  are  the  principal  inns;  several 
smaller  afford  good  accommodation  to  the  pedestrian.  Great  praise  is  due 
to  the  Wrexham  Horticultural  Society,  not  only  for  the  fine  specimens  of 
fruit  produced  at  their  meetings,  but  for  the  encouragement  given  to  cot¬ 
tagers,  one  of  whom  lately  received  11.?.  for  various  prizes. 

Plants  in  this  neighbourhood  :  —  Aspidium  lobatum  ;  A.  aculeatum  ; 
A.  oreopteris  ;  Ophio-glossum  vulgatum  ;  Equisetum  limosum ;  E.  hyemale. 

At  Wrexham,  Mr.  Edward  Randles,  although  blind,  was  considered  a 
most  skilful  organist.  A  pupil  on  the  harp  of  the  celebrated  Parry,  he 
caught  the  energetic  style  of  his  master.  His  daughter  Elizabeth  at  a  very 
early  age  exhibited  uncommon  talents  for  music.  In  the  year  1800,  at  the 
age  of  two  years,  she  was  ushered  into  public  notice  ;  at  3^  years  she 
had  the  honour  of  performing  before  the  king  and  royal  family.  At 
six  years  this  extraordinary  child  could  play  the  most  complicated  music, 
and  sing  any  thing  laid  before  her  at  first  sight.  During  the  years  1807 
and  1808,  her  friends  conducted  her  on  a  musical  tour  through  most  of  the 
English  counties.  In  London  she  performed  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  and  the  Marchioness  of  Down  shire,  at  the  concert-rooms 
Hanover  Square.  She  retired  for  education,  but  afterwards  applied  her 
abilities  to  the  harp. 

To  Chester,  Mr.  Pennant  called  at  Acton,  1  m.,  then  the  seat  of  his 
friend  Ellis  Yonge,  now  the  property  and  residence  of  Sir  Robert  Henry 


WREXHAM. 


635 


Cunliffe,  Bart.  The  mansion  is  delightfully  situated  upon  an  elevated 
lawn^  amidst  many  woodland  decorations.  It  has  been  considerably  en¬ 
larged  and  modernised^  and  is  surrounded  by  richly  diversified  and  roman¬ 
tic  scenery.  This  place  formerly  belonged  to  the  Jeffereys^  among  whom 
was  the  arbitrary  judge  of  that  name_,  chancellor  of  England. 

Gresford,  3  m._,  or  Croes-ffordd_,  the  Road  of  the  Cross,”  is  a  village  of 
Denbighshire^  remarked  chiefly  on  account  of  its  beautiful  church_,  built 
about  the  same  time  as  that  of  Wrexham,  and  containing  a  fine  set  of  twelve 
bells,  reckoned  one  of  the  wonders  of  Wales.  Beneath  the  church  is  a  de¬ 
lightful  little  valley.  It  is  placed  upon  rising  ground  at  the  end  of  the 
village,  built  of  freestone,  in  length  123  ft.  in  breadth  59  ft.  The  tower 
is  quadrangular  ;  its  height  90  ft*  On  one  side  is  a  fine  statue  of  Henry 
VII.  The  E.  window,  which  measures  21  ft.  by  14,  has  been  ornamented 
with  beautiful  groups  appearing  to  contain  the  history  of  several  saints,  with 
some  figures  of  the  Virgin  Mary  in  the  centre ;  under  each  group  are  sen¬ 
tences  in  her  praise.  The  virgin’s  history  ornaments  the  east  window  of 
the  north  aisle.  The  interior  is  very  neat,  and  has  been  repaired  with 
much  taste  and  judgment.  In  the  n.  aisle  is  a  figure  completely  clothed  in 
mail,  a  surcoat,  and  round  helmet,  with  a  lion  at  his  feet.  His  shield  has 
also  the  figure  of  a  lion  upon  it.  The  following  inscription  is  upon  the 
ledge  of  the  tomb  : — Hie  jacet  Madoc  ap  Llewelyn  ap  Gruff,  obiit  1331.” 
Some  mural  emblems  commemorate  the  Trevors  of  Trefalin.  Among  these 
one  by  Rogerson,  to  Sir  Richard,  in  the  80th  year  of  his  age,  represents 
the  knight  in  armour  kneeling  with  his  wife  Catherine  by  his  side.  A  well 
executed  bust  represents  John  Madocks,  Esq.  who  died  September  23. 
1794.  In  the  chancel  is  a  monument  to  John  Parry,  Esq.  by  Westmacott. 
This  unique  piece  of  sculpture  possesses  peculiar  points  of  elegance.  In 
the  churchyard  are  I9  immense  yew  trees.  The  cemeteries  in  Wales  are 
distinguished  much  by  this  sombre  accompaniment.  Gresford  Lodge  is  a 
low  but  exceedingly  neat  freestone  mansion,  with  a  colonnaded  fa9ade,  situ¬ 
ated  in  that  part  of  the  valley  through  which  flows  the  river  Alun,  hastening 
to  the  Dee.  It  was  the  residence  of  Mrs.  Parry,  relict  of  the  late  J.  Parry, 
Esq.  from  a  design  by  Wyatt;  now  occupied  by  W.  Egerton,  Esq.  At 
the  extremity  of  a  lofty  impendent  declivity,  affording  an  extensive  view  to 
the  N.  and  n.e.,  is  a  peninsulated  field  called  the  Lofts,  once  a  British  post, 
and  defended  by  three  strong  dikes  and  fosses,  cut  across  the  narrow  isthmus 
which  connects  it  with  higher  parts  of  the  parish.  In  one  corner  is  a  vast 
exploratory  mount.  On  two  sides  it  is  inaccessible,  from  the  steepness  of 
the  declivity  ;  and  on  the  s.  which  fronts  Cheshire,  being  of  easier  ascent, 
it  has  been  protected  by  two  or  three  other  dikes,  now  almost  levelled  by  the 
plough.  In  one  corner  of  this  fortress  is  a  vast  exploratory  mount  ;  the 
whole  seems  to  have  been  an  important  station. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Gresford,  is  Upper  Gwersyllt-Hall,  the  seat  of 
Mr.  Atherston.  The  circumjacent  grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out ;  the 
walks  on  the  margin  of  the  Alun  are  highly  romantic,  and  the  views  from 
the  higher  lawn  embrace  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  Hope,  Caergwrle 
castle,  &c.  This  was  the  residence  of  that  distinguished  royalist.  Col.  Robin¬ 
son,  who,  in  the  time  of  Charles  I.,  was  necessitated  to  leave  it ;  but  he 
regained  possession  on  the  restoration  of  Charles  II.  The  usurping  pos¬ 
sessor  rebuilt  and  fitted  it  up  in  a  superior  style.  From  an  epitaph  in 
Gresford  church,  it  appears  he  died  March  15.  I68O.  Jeffery  Shakerly, 
another  patriot,  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  royal  cause,  possessed  the 
Lower  Gwersyllt.  He  commanded  a  regiment  of  cavalry  during  the  civil 
wars,  and  afterwards  bought  this  estate  from  its  contiguity  with  that  of  his 


636 


WREXHAM. 


friend  Col.  Robinson.  Gresford  W.  Egerton,  Esq.;  and  between 

Gresford  and  Pulford^  Trefalen  Hall,  J.  Boydellj  Esq.  Cross  the  river 
Alun.  Darland  Hall,  W.  Snelson^  Esq. ;  contiguous  to  which  is  the  Rec¬ 
tory.  Two  m.  beyond  Pulford^  on  the  r.,  is  Eaton  Hall,  Marquess  of  West¬ 
minster.  This  superb  mansion^  with  the  exception  of  the  vaulted  basement 
story,  and  part  of  the  original  hall,  has  been  lately  re-erected  from  the  de¬ 
signs  of  Porden.  It  is  built  with  alight  coloured  stone,  and  has  two  fronts, 
consisting  of  spacious  centres  of  three  stories  each,  with  octagonal  turrets, 
buttresses  and  pinnacles,  placed  betAveen  large  wings.  The  entrance  to  the 
w.  front  is  under  a  lofty  vaulted  portico,  which  admits  a  carriage.  On  the 
E.  side  is  a  magnificent  flight  of  steps,  terminating  in  three  rich  and  airy 
arches,  which  form  the  middle  of  an  exquisitely  beautiful  vaulted  cloister, 
which  covers  the  whole  centre,  and  unites  the  wings.  The  entrance  to  the 
grand  saloon  is  through  three  arches.  This  splendid  apartment  faces  a 
terrace  350  ft.  long,  whence  a  rich  landscape  appears,  including  the  river 
Dee.  The  prevailing  style  is  Gothic,  of  the  time  of  Edward  III.,  but 
many  deviations  have  been  made.  A  grand  flight  of  steps  leads  from  the 
vaulted  portico  in  the  w.  front,  to  the  great  hall,  which  is  a  spacious  and 
lofty  room,  rising  to  the  height  of  two  stories,  and  having  a  vautled  ceiling, 
ornamented  with  family  devices  at  the  intersection  of  the  ribs  ;  it  is  paved 
with  variegated  marbles,  arranged  in  compartments,  and  has  on  each  side 
four  niches,  Avith  pedestals  and  canopies,  over  ornamented  chimney  pieces, 
between  which  are  pictures  by  West.  The  subjects  are  the  dissolution  of 
the  long  parliament  by  Cromwell,  and  the  landing  of  Charles  II.  The 
saloon  contains  three  large  windows,  the  upper  parts  of  Avhich  are  decorated 
with  the  most  brilliant  specimens  of  painted  glass,  by  Collins,  from  designs 
by  Tresham.  The  dining  and  drawing-rooms  are  very  extensive,  magnifi¬ 
cently  furnished,  containing  much  stained  glass  ;  the  ceilings  are  decorated 
with  fan-shaped  tracery,  and  the  walls  hung  with  pictures  by  the  most 
eminent  masters.  The  library  adjoins,  very  tastefully  fitted  up  with  elabo¬ 
rately  carved  Gothic  book-cases  of  English  oak,  containing  many  ancient 
MSS.,  and  an  extensive  collection  of  classical  and  standard  works.  The 
grounds  have  received  the  congenial  feature  of  modern  gardening.  The 
venerable  avenue  to  the  w.  has  been  extended  to  a  Gothic  lodge  about  2  m. 
distant  from  the  mansion.  There  is  another  lodge,  similar  in  design,  ap¬ 
proached  from  the  turnpike-road.  The  most  advantageous  views  of  this 
seat  are  obtained  from  the  banks  of  the  Dee,  which  intervenes  between  the 
E.  front  and  the  plantations ;  the  other  prospect  occurs  on  the  Alford  road. 

Two  miles  n.  w.  from  W rexham  is  Bersliam  iron  furnace.  [See  Ruabon.] 
Not  far  from  Minera,  where  are  extensive  mines,  about  3  m.  n.  w.  from 
Wrexham,  is  Brymho  Hall,  W.  Legh,  Esq.,  where  the  late  John  Wilkinson, 
Esq.  had  a  farm  of  about  500  acres.  The  situation  is  bleak,  and  the  soil  a 
hungry  clay  upon  a  substratum  of  ochreous  schist.  By  good  tillage  and 
the  application  of  lime,  at  the  rate  of  ten  tons  per  acre,  it  was  greatly  im¬ 
proved.  Thus  he  brought  under  cultivation  150  acres  of  wild  heath.  A 
crowned  head  had  assisted  him  in  making  his  compost  manures ;  OfFa,  king 
of  Mercia,  had  employed  men  to  bring  together  the  soil,  and  Mr.  Wilkinson 
went  to  the  expense  of  forming  it  into  a  compost.  Large  cavities,  in  the 
shape  of  inverted  cones,  vxre  cut  at  convenient  distances,  in  OtFa’s  Dike, 
which  runs  across  Brymbo  farm.  The  cavities  were  filled  up  with  limestone 
and  coal,  and  then  burnt.  While  on  an  excursion  to  Bersham  iron-works, 
Mr.  Pugh  proceeded  thence  to  this  spot,  taking  a  passing  view  of  Bids 
Powe7’,  the  residence  of  Thomas  Fitzhugh,  Esq.,  delightfully  situated, 
from  Brymbo  Flail,  where  Mr.  Pugh  had  the  happiness  of  being  received 


WREXHAM. 


637 

as  a  friend.  Indeed  to  be  an  artist  is  a  sufficient  introduction  to  the  pro¬ 
prietor,  Thomas  Jones^  Esq.  From  this  place  Mr.  Pugh  visited  an  extra¬ 
ordinary  dingle,  called  Nant-y-Fridd,  the  romantic  character  of  which  is 
not  surpassed  by  the  wildest  scenery  of  Merionethshire.  The  side  on  the 
the  r.  for  about  a  mile,  is  coated  by  a  hazel  wood,  bestudded  with  cottages, 
at  the  extremity  of  which  a  scene  opens  which  compeers  with  the  savage 
wildness  of  Nant-Francon.  The  Cegidog  thunders  down  the  rocks  in  three 
successive  falls.  On  his  return  Mr.  Pugh  digressed  from  the  direct  road 
to  visit  the  cot  of  Kate  of  Cymmau,  embosomed  in  the  deep  and  obscure 
shades  of  a  woody  glen.  He  found  her  at  the  age  of  84  possessing  all  her 
faculties  entire  ;  she  lived  according  to  nature,  undertaking  the  culture  of 
a  garden,  and  feasting  upon  its  produce.  Mr.  Pugh  has  given  a  view  of 
Kate’s  cot,  in  which  he  has  introduced  herself  and  her  dog.  (^Tour,  p.331.) 

To  no  one  spot  in  ample  space, 

To  no  one  race  confined, 

Content  is  every  where  at  home. 

That  home’s  the  virtuous  mind  ; 

So  Kate,  whose  independent  soul 
O’er  half  an  acre  reigns, 

Is  truly  great,  compared  with  him 
Who  sighs  for  large  domains. 

Llwyd’s  Poems,  p.  37. 

To  Mold  (on  the  r.  Acton  Park,  Sir  Foster  Cunliffe,  Bart. ;  beyond  is 
Gwersyllt  Park,  and  Rhyddyu  on  the  r.),  pass  Cegidog  Bridge,  4f  m. 
Within  a  mile  of  Caergwrle,  1^  m.,  the  road  leads  through  a  romantic 
glen,  after  which  occurs  a  bridge  of  one  arch,  accompanied  by  rustic 
cottages,  and  overshadowed  with  trees  in  beautiful  style.  The  name 
Caer-gawr-lleng,  the  Camp  of  the  Great  Legion,”  seems  to  indicate  that  it 
was  once  occupied  by  the  Romans.  In  further  confirmation  of  this  con¬ 
jecture,  two  Roman  hypocausts  were  discovered  here.  One  was  6^  yards 
long,  5  yards  broad,  and  about  half  a  yard  high,  encompassed  with  walls. 
The  floor  was  of  brick,  set  in  mortar ;  the  roof,  supported  by  brick  pillars, 
consisted  of  polished  tiles,  which,  at  certain  places,  were  perforated  ;  on 
these  were  laid  brick  conductors,  which  carried  off  the  force  of  the  heat.” 
Some  of  the  tiles  were  inscribed  “  Legio  XX.,”  or  the  20th  legion,  long 
stationed  at  Chester.  Large  beds  of  iron  scoriae  have  been  discovered  near 
Caer  Estyn,  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  Roman  smelting  works  ;  also 
the  vestiges  of  two  roads  ;  one  in  a  direction  to  Hawarden  ;  the  other 
tending  towards  Mold  ;  these  are  traceable  in  several  places.  The  road  is 
very  prominent  in  the  fields  on  this  side  Plds  Teg,  the  venerable  seat  of 
C.  B.  Trevor  Roper,  Esq.,  of  the  Dacre  family.  It  appears  from  these 
circumstances,  therefore,  that  Caergwrle  was  an  outpost  to  the  grand  station 
Deva,  or  Chester.  This  situation  was  subsequently  occupied  by  the 
Britons,  who  built  a  castle  upon  the  summit  of  a  high  rock,  at  a  little 
distance.  The  history  of  this  castle  is  clouded  by  uncertainty.  In  the 
reign  of  Owain  Gwynedd,  it  formed  part  of  the  possessions  of  Gryffydd 
Maelor,  Edward  I.  made  a  grant  of  it  to  Prince  David.  It  was  after- 
w^ards  retaken,  and  the  king  gave  it  to  his  consort  Eleanor,  who  rested  here 
on  her  journey  to  Caernarvon,  the  place  of  her  accouchement  ;  from  this 
circumstance,  the  name  was  changed  to  Queen  Hope.  While  the  queen 
was  here,  or  shortly  afterwards,  this  fortress  was  set  on  fire,  and  the  interior 
of  the  structure  consumed.  The  remains  of  the  castle  consists  of  a 
mutilated  circular  tower,  and  some  fragments  of  walls.  It  does  not  appear 
to  have  ever  been  a  large  structure,  although  the  site  was  uncommonly 


638 


WREXHAM. 


favourable.  Aided  by  the  British  post  Caer  Estyn,  a  station  upon  the 
opposite  elevation_,  formed  of  ditch  and  rampart,  the  castle  was  calculated 
to  defend  this  pass.  The  valley  here  narrows  so  as  to  leave  little  more 
space  than  is  sufficient  to  admit  the  Alun  through  its  romantic  dingles. 
The  country,  however,  opens  in  the  distant  vale,  and  the  river  expands  at 
the  village  of  Gresford.  Nearly  the  whole  of  this  rock  is  conglomerate 
or  that  mixed  kind  of  gritstone,  so  coarse  in  its  texture  as  to  bear  the 
appearance  of  small  pebbles  imbedded  in  mortar.  It  has  been  applied  to 
the  purpose  of  forming  mill-stones,  but  they  are  inferior  to  French  burs. 
The  Red  Lion  Inn,  here,  is  an  old  building,  and  its  exterior  is  unfavour¬ 
able,  but  the  two  sisters  who  keep  the  house  have  rendered  it  elegant 
within.  The  surrounding  hills  consist  of  limestone,  which  is  burnt  upon 
the  spot,  and  mostly  sold  into  Cheshire.  In  the  overlay  of  loose  earth,  are 
numerous  organic  bodies,  called  entrochi  and  astroides.  A  singular  kind 
has  been  found  here,  with  protuberant  joints,  conjectured  to  have  been 
parts  of  the  species  called  Asterias  arborescens,  arborescent  sea  star ;  the 
branches  of  which  resemble  these  substances,  the  shape  being  cylindrical, 
made  up  of  several  articulations. 

On  the  demesne  of  Rhyddyn,  almost  close  to  the  Alun,  are  two  springs 
strongly  impregnated  with  muriate  of  soda,  resembling  the  celebrated  foun¬ 
tain  at  Barrowdale,  near  Keswick,  in  Cumberland.  These  were  formerly 
much  frequented  by  scorbutic  patients.  Here  is  a  fine  old  bridge  over  the 
river  Alun,  where  may  be  had  a  complete  view  of  the  village,  with  good 
angling.  Its  situation  forms  a  slope  to  the  river,  and  has  three  broad 
parallel  streets,  intersected  by  three  others  at  right  angles.  In  the  Church 
are  two  mural  monuments  ;  one  is  decorated  with  two  kneeling  figures. 
Another  commemorates  Sir  John  Trevor,  Knight,  the  conqueror  of  the 
boasted  invincible  Armada,  and  comptroller  of  the  navy  in  the  time  of 
Elizabeth  and  James  I.  The  charter  of  this  place  comprehends  Caergwrle, 
first  granted  by  the  Black  Prince  at  Chester,  1351,  by  which  authority 
the  constable  of  the  castle  is  bound  to  choose  two  bailiffs,  on  Michaelmas 
day.  A  Roman  road  lies  from  the  village  in  the  direction  towards  Mold, 
and  is  visible  in  the  fields  on  this  side  Plds  Teg,  with  an  artificial  mount 
close  to  its  course. 

About  Caergwrle  castle  grow  Plantago  maritima  ;  Fumaria  claviculata. 
Astragalus  hyperglottis,  Carduus  marianus.  West  of  the  castle  upon  a  lofty 
hill,  is  Bryn  Yorkin,  the  paternal  seat  of  Ellis  Yonge^  Esq.,  a  descendant 
of  Tudor  Trevor,  The  form  is  quadrangular,  with  a  square  wing  at  each 
corner,  five  stories  high,  erected  in  l6l0,  probably  by  Inigo  Jones.  The 
village  and  church  of  Hope  lie  about  I  m.  from  the  castle,  on  the  n.  side 
of  the  stream.  Caergwrle  and  Hope  form,  conjointly  with  Flint,  Caerwys, 
Rhuddlan,  Overton,  and  Holywell,  a  prescriptive  borough,  which  send 
one  member  to  parliament.  This  ancient  structure  exhibits  great  regu¬ 
larity,  with  a  portion  of  grandeur  arising  from  simplicity  of  design.  A 
bold  centre  is  presented,  45  ft.  in  length,  and  each  angle  is  flanked  by  a 
square  tower.  Pass  an  ancient  house  called  Ferm,  and  a  little  further, 
Pentrehohin,  At  a  short  distance,  upon  the  opposite  banks  of  the  Alun, 
is  Hart’ s-Heath-Hall,  beautifully  placed  upon  a  gentle  slope,  the  possession 
of  Gwilym  Lloyd  Wardle,  Esq.  It  is  a  large  handsome  modern  square 
mansion,  with  three  fronts,  surrounded  by  fine  plantations.  Pont  Bleuddin^ 
1  m.  This  road  runs  for  2  m.  with  Watt's  Dike  on  the  r.,  viz.,  —  from 
Hope  to  Plas  Newydd. 

On  the  1.  are  Leeswoods ;  one  the  residence  of  J.  WynnEyton,  Esq.; 

the  other  was  once  the  residence  of  George  Wynn,  Esq.,  who  spent  large 


THE  WYE. 


639 


sums  in  the  emhellishments  of  his  gardens  and  grounds.  Exquisitely 
beautiful  iron  gates  occur  in  different  parts  of  the  grounds.  Those  at  the 
entrance  of  the  lawn,  in  front  of  the  house,  are  most  splendid.  From  the 
heights  above  the  house  is  a  most  captivating  prospect  of  Mold  and  its  vale. 
Half  m.  further  is  the  old  mansion  called  Tower,  the  residence  of  E.  W. 
Eyton,  Esq.  On  the  1.,  f  m.,  Trebeirdd. 

To  Ruabon,  at  -1  m.,  cross  Watt’s  Dike,  to  Melin  Puleston,  1  m. 
(Near,  on  the  r,,  Ecclusham  Hall ;  1  m.  beyond  on  the  1.  is  Erddig,  Simon 
Yorke,  Esq.,  a  place  rendered  peculiarly  beautiful  by  rich  overhanging 
woods,  which  are  the  theme  of  universal  admiration.  The  walks  around 
this  building  are  laid  out  with  great  taste  and  elegance.  There  is  a  path 
across  the  park  into  a  road  by  New  Hall  to  Ruabon.  On  the  r.,  Havod- 
y-Bwch  ;  a  little  further  on  the  1.,  Plds  Gronow  ;  1  m.  further,  some  houses 
on  the  r.,  called  Aber-derjin.  The  following  succeed  :  —  on  the  1.,  Havod- 
y-Bwch,  New  Hall ;  on  the  1.  Pentre  Clawdd  ;  on  the  r.  Gardden  Lodge, 
Pen-y-Gardden,  and  further,  Bryn.)  Ruabon,  ro. 

To  Oswestry,  advance  first  to  Melin  Puleston,  1  m.  (1  m.  beyond, 
on  the  1.,  Erddig,  S.  Yorke,  Esq.  ;  Ruabon,  4^  m.  On  the  1.  to  Whit¬ 
church,  18  m:  on  the  r.  to  Llangollen,  6  m.  (Within  1  m.  on  the  r., 
Gardden  Lodge,  and  near  it  Pen-y-Gardden  -,  and  on  1.  of  Ruabon,  Wynn- 
stay,  the  spacious  and  hospitable  residence  of  Sir  Watkin  Williams  Wynn, 
Bart.,  a  stately  pile  of  building,  possessing,  from  its  extent  and  substantial 
elevation,  a  striking  character  of  simple  and  unostentatious  grandeur. 
And  1  m.  beyond  Ruabon  is  Plds  Madog,  beyond  which  Plas  Kynaston.) 
Cross  the  Dee  to  Whitehurst  toll-bar,  2  m.  (On  ther.  to  Llangollen,  6  m.) 
Chirk,  2  m.  (On  the  1.  Bryn  Kinallt,  Lord  Dungannon,  and  1  m.  on  the 
r.  of  Chirk,  Chirk  Castle,  Mrs.  Myddleton  Biddulph. 

About  4  m.  on  the  road  to  Bangor  Iscoed,  is  the  village  of  Marchwiel, 
Townshead  Mainwaring,  Esq.  Its  elegant  little  church,  cased  with  stone, 
was,  in  1788,  ornamented  with  a  painted  window  by  Egginton,  divided 
into  twenty-one  compartments,  containing  the  arms  and  crests  of  the 
families  of  Myddleton  and  York,  with  rich  borders. 


To  Caergwrle,  5  miles.  Bingley. 
Kuabon,  miles.  Wyndliam. 
Bangor  Iscoed,  7  miles. 
Ellesmere,  12  miles. 

Chester,  12  miles. 


To  Ruthin,  18  miles. 
Oswestry,  14  miles. 
Mold,  11  miles.  Pugh. 
Whitchurch,  16  miles. 
Llangollen,  12  miles. 


THE  WYE. 

From  Tintern  Abbey,  Barber.  From  Goodrich  Castle  to  Tintern  Abbey,  Coxe. 

Monmouth,  Coxe.  Hereford,  Warner. 

Mr.  Gilpin  begins  his  description  of  the 
Wye  at  Ross. 

The  wye,  (derived  from  Gwy,  a  liquid,  or  water,)  rises  near  the 
summit  of  Plinlimmon,  and  divides  the  counties  of  Radnor  and  Brecon, 
passing  through  the  middle  of  Herefordshire ;  thence  becoming  a  second 
boundary  between  Monmouthshire  and  Gloucester,  it  falls  into  the  Severn 
below  Chepstow.  It  is  no  small  advantage  to  the  Wye,”  observes  an 
intelligent  foreigner,  that  two  of  the  most  beautiful  ruins  in  the  world 
lie  on  its  banks;  and  never  was  I  more  convinced  than  here,  that  a  prophet 
has  no  honour  in  his  own  country.  How  else  would  so  many  Englishmen 
travel  thousands  of  miles  to  fall  into  ecstasies  at  beauties  of  a  very  inferior 


640 


THE  WYE. 


order  to  these.”  Even  in  its  earliest  stage,  upon  the  hrow  of  Plinlim- 
mon,  this  river  is  marked  with  features  of  the  grand  and  sublime.  The 
country  for  several  miles  is  naked  and  dreary,  one  continued  undulation  of 
hills  forming  the  distance,  the  river  “  making  sweet  music  with  the  ena¬ 
melled  stones."  At  the  distance  of  6  m.  from  its  source,  at  a  village  called 
Ty-n-y-cwm,  the  Wye  receives  a  considerable  swell  from  the  river  Ta- 
reneg.  Here  is  a  wooden  bridge  called  Pont-rhyd-gareg.  Hence  upon 
an  easy  ascent,  a  tolerable  road  leads  to  the  wretched  village  of  Llangurig. 
The  beauties  of  this  situation  can  only  be  communicated  by  the  pencil,  the 
power  of  language  is  inadequate.  4  m.  below  Llangurrig,  in  a  s.  direc¬ 
tion,  the  river  Hernol  empties  itself  into  the  Wye.  Pursuing  the  course 
of  the  stream,  the  Nannerth  rocks,  in  an  extent  of  nearly  3  m.,  form  a  beauti¬ 
ful  screen  to  its  n.  bank.  At  this  spot  the  Wye  takes  an  easy  bend,  and 
the  ascending  road  girts  the  immense  hills  enriched  with  spreading  oaks 
and  underwood.  Beneath,  the  gentle  Marteg  loses  its  sinuous  current  in 
the  broader  channel  of  the  Wye.  Distant  3  m.  is  RhaiadyrGwy,  7  ni. 
from  which  are  the  remains  of  the  once  splendid  Ahhey-cwm-Mi' ;  situated 
amidst  lofty  and  beautiful  hills,  this  venerable  pile  inspires  the  mind  with 
solemn  awe.  Numerous  carneddau  occur  in  this  locality  ;  that  on  Gwas- 
taden  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  county.  The  attractions  of  Llandegle 
will  amply  repay  a  deviation,  were  it  only  to  collect  the  beautiful  quartz 
crystals  which  abound  near  the  church.  The  scenery  is  of  the  most 
lovely  character.  3  m.  further  the  Wye  receives  a  considerable  supply  of 
water  from  the  rivers  Elan  and  Clarwen,  which  unite  at  the  distance  of 
4  m.  from  their  conflux  with  our  river.  Below  this  a  copious  stream  called 
the  Ithon  (which  in  its  course  receives  the  Dulas  and  Cammaron'),  makes 
a  considerable  addition  to  the  Wye.  On  the  former  stream  occurs  Llan¬ 
drindod,  the  wells  of  which  have  attained  deserved  celebrity  for  their  medi¬ 
cinal  properties.  From  the  brow  of  a  hill,  about  2  m.  before  we  reach  the 
town  of  Builth,  the  BuUcBum  Silurum  of  the  Romans,  which  forms  a 
separate  article  in  this  work,  the  scenery  is  peculiarly  beautiful ;  the  river 
spreading  itself  into  a  bay,  exhibits  many  naked  rocks  and  agreeable 
breaks.  Builth  is,  from  the  salubrity  of  its  air  and  the  celebrity  of  its  mine¬ 
ral  waters,  fast  rising  into  importance  among  the  S.  Wales  watering  places. 
Several  new  houses  of  a  better  class  are  now  in  building  ;  and  we  hear  that 
Joseph  Bailey,  Esq.  has  offered  to  present  the  inhabitants  with  a  suspen¬ 
sion  bridge,  over  the  river  Yrfon,  so  as  to  effect  a  more  direct  communica¬ 
tion  between  the  town  and  Park  Wells  by  way  of  that  pleasant  promenade, 
the  Grove,  upon  condition  that  the  inhabitants  shall  subscribe  a  sum  suffi¬ 
cient  for  the  erection  of  the  piers,  and  which  they  will  doubtless  cheerfully 
do.  The  Yrfon  falls  into  the  Wye  about  -l  m,  above  the  town,  receiving 
at  a  short  distance  from  its  junction,  the  brook  called  the  Wheffrey,  which 
rises  upon  the  Breconshire  hills.  Within  1  m.  of  the  bridge  of  Builth 
the  small  river  Dehonw  empties  itself  into  the  W ye.  From  the  ferry  a 
little  below,  a  beautiful  reach  of  the  river  terminates  in  a  view  of  Aheredwy 
Castle,  the  favourite  residence  and  last  retreat  of  Llywelyn  ap  Gruffyth. 
Its  remains  consist  of  little  more  than  a  stone  wall,  at  the  extremity  of 
which  are  the  fragments  of  two  round  towers.  These  rude  specimens  of 
art  are  finely  contrasted  by  the  adjoining  wonderful  productions  of  nature. 
An  immense  range  of  rocks  running  parallel  with  the  river,  exhibits  the 
most  strange  and  fantastic  forms.  These  projections  present  to  the  mind 
the  idea  of  towers  and  castles  rising  out  of  luxuriant  copses,  and  under  a 
declining  sun  a  scene  is  presented  worthy  a  Salvator,  or  of  his  rival  John 
Mortimer,  Near  this  charming  spot,  the  river  Edw  falls  into  our  river. 


THE  WYE. 


641 


In  passing  along  a  similar  kind  of  rock  scenery^  occurs  Llangoed  Castle, 
embowered  in  woods.  Hence  advance  through  a  wood_,  the  breaks  of 
which  allow  glimpses  of  the  river_,  as  far  as  the  village  Swaine,  distant  1  m., 
where  the  Wye  assumes  the  form  of  an  extensive  bay.  At  Gldshury  the 
scenery  may  he  contrasted  with  that  of  Aberedwy  and  Builth  ;  all  around 
the  scenery  assumes  a  placid  air ;  the  river  also  sweetly  harmonising^ 
flows  in  a  tranquil  stream.  In  the  midst  of  this  rich  and  beautiful  val¬ 
ley^  an  elegant  stone  bridge  of  seven  arches  was  thrown  across  the  river^ 
about  the  year  1783,  by  the  family  of  Edwards,  under  the  direction  of 
their  father,  the  architect  of  Pont-y-Prydd.  In  the  winter,  however,  of 
17P4,  it  was  totally  destroyed  by  a  torrent  of  ice  which  poured  down  after 
the  long  frost  in  the  beginning  of  1795.  Approaching  Hay  (to  which 
article  the  reader  will  refer),  pass  its  small  church,  situated  upon  a  high 
bank  of  the  river.  The  purple  hue  of  the  Black  Mountains  generally 
affords  a  good  background  to  the  scenery  around  the  bridge.  These  emi¬ 
nences  extend  14  or  15  m.  towards  a  place  called  Monmouth  Cap,  about 
8  m.  from  Abergavenny. 

On  quitting  Hay,  the  Wye  receives  a  considerable  body  of  water  from 
the  river  Hulas,  across  which  is  a  stone  bridge  of  one  arch.  Thus  as¬ 
sisted,  our  river  here  becomes  navigable  in  the  winter  season.  Hence, 
amidst  a  profusion  of  rich  and  beautiful  scenery,  the  river  quits  Radnor¬ 
shire,  at  a  place  called  Rhydspence.  The  winding  and  mazy  course  of  the 
4Yye,  in  about  2  m.  brings  us  to  the  Whitney.  Then  passing  several 
beautiful  villages  reach  Willersley,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  the  extensive 
range  of  Merbach  hills  affords  from  their  summits,  grand  and  extensive 
views  of  the  surrounding  country,  Brohury  Scar,  also  in  this  neigh¬ 
bourhood,  is  another  grand  object.  Its  principal  attractions  are  the  bold 
and  majestic  roughness  of  its  form,  which  contrast  beautifully  with  the 
views  upon  the  bank  of  the  Wye.  Our  river  glides  in  an  easy  course 
towards  Bradwardin.  This  village  stands  upon  an  easy  ascent,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Wye,  and  appears  in  a  happy  point  of  view  above  the  bridge  ; 
the  N,  side  of  the  river  rises  considerably,  and  is  richly  clothed  with  shrub¬ 
bery.  This  place  gave  birth  and  name  to  the  celebrated  Thomas  Brad¬ 
wardin.  [See  p.  296.]  Passing  with  the  stream  along  a  rich  and  fertile 
country,  reach  Moccas,  the  seat  of  Sir  George  Cornewall,  Bart.,  pleasantly 
situated  upon  an  eminence  on  the  s.  bank.  The  ancient  name  of  this 
place  is  Moches,  which  was  the  property  of  St,  Guthlach,  in  the  city  of 
Hereford.  The  ancient  house  stood  below  the  site  of  the  present,  which  is 
a  modern  structure,  partly  built  from  the  ruin  of  Bradwardin  Castle.  In 
descending  towards  Hereford,  pass  a  variety  of  elegant  villas  rich  in  si¬ 
tuation  and  happily  selected  :  among  these  Belmont  is  peculiarly  worthy  of 
attention.  Quitting  Hereford,  the  Wye  bends  its  course  round  a  point  of 
land  for  2  m.,  when  we  are  again  brought  almost  as  near  to  the  city  as 
when  we  quitted  it.  In  passing  further  down,  the  river  continues  to  take 
circuitous  windings,  but  assumes  an  evener  surface.  Six  m.  from  Hereford 
the  Wye  receives  the  Lug,  one  of  the  three  principal  rivers  in  this  county  : 
it  originates  in  the  mountains  on  the  n.e.  side  of  Radnorshire,  and  running 
E.  through  Herefordshire  to  Leominster,  takes  a  s.e.  direction.  About  t  m. 
distant  from  the  Wye,  this  river  runs  by  the  pleasing  village  of  Mordiford, 
adding  much  to  the  picturesque  scenery  of  the  place.  Upon  the  e.  end  of  the 
church  is  represented  in  plaster,  an  enormous  dragon  or  serpent.  Tradition 
says  that  some  centuries  ago  a  terrible  creature  of  that  species  was  slain  near 
this  place.  Camden  says,  —  ‘^‘^Near  the  conflux  of  the  Lug  and  the  Wye, 
E.,  a  hill  which  they  call  Marclay  Hill,  did,  in  the  year  1575,  rouse  itself 

T  T 


642 


THE  WYE. 


as  it  were  out  of  sleep,  and  for  three  days  together,  shoving  its  prodigious 
body  forward  with  a  horrible,  roaring  noise,  and  overturning  every  thing 
in  its  way,  raised  itself  (to  the  great  astonishment  of  the  beholders),  to  a 
higher  place.”  A  similar  occurrence  on  the  Severn,  almost  within  the 
memory  of  man,  is  recorded  by  the  late  Rev.  J.  G.  Fletcher,  vicar  of  Made- 
ley.  This  relation  of  Camden  will  be  regarded  with  much  interest  by  the 
geologist.  It  is  alluded  to  by  Phillips  in  his  poem  on  Cyder, 

Upon  a  hill  adjoining  the  village,  a  large  stone  house  has  been  erected 
by  Mr.  Hereford,  which  commands  a  most  extensive  view  of  the  sur¬ 
rounding  country.  About  2  m.  below  Mordiford,  pass  a  large  man¬ 
sion  called  Holm  House,  the  ancient  and  noble  seat  of  the  Scudamores, 
and  now  of  Sir  E.  F.  S.  Stanhope,  Bart.  On  this  site  stood  an  abbey  for 
premonstratensian  canons,  founded  by  William  Fitswain,  in  the  begin¬ 
ning  of  the  reign  of  Henry  III.  This  structure  commands  a  beautiful 
prospect  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  called  F'ownhope,  A  little  below 
the  next  bend  of  the  river  Capler  and  Carey  Woods  form  a  rich  screen 
to  the  N.  E.  bank  of  the  Wye.  Near  Brookhampton,  upon  Capler  Wood, 
is  a  very  large  camp  called  Woldhury,  doubly  trenched.  Its  dimensions  are 
inconsiderable  in  width,  but  is  near  long. 

In  1792,  three  acres  of  these  hills  fell  into  the  Wye,  and  altered  its 
course.  On  the  1.  at  Aramstone,  is  a  fine  view  of  the  village  of  King’s 
Caple,  situated  amidst  a  beautiful  assemblage  of  woods.  Below,  upon  the 
opposite  bank,  is  Harewood,  the  residence  of  Sir  HungerfordHoskyns,  Bart., 
situated  in  the  ancient  manor  of  Wormelow,  the  peculiar  customs  of  which 
are  detailed  in  Doomsday-book.  This  place  forms  part  of  the  forest  of 
Harewood,  in  which  Ethel  wold,  king  Edgar’s  minister,  had  a  castle.  It 
was  here  that  Mason  selected  the  scene  for  his  drama  of  Elfrida,  who  thus 
describes  it :  — 

“  How  nobly  does  this  venerable  wood, 

Gilt  with  the  glories  of  the  orient  Sun, 

Embosom  yon  fair  Mansion !  The  soft  air 
Salutes  me  with  most  cool  and  temp’rate  breath  : 

And  as  I  tread,  the  flow’r  besprinkled  lawn 
Sends  up  a  gale  of  fragrance.  I  should  guess. 

If  e’er  content  deign’d  to  visit  mortal  clime, 

This  was  her  place  of  dearest  residence.” 

Hence,  amidst  a  rich  and  woody  country,  reach  the  pleasant  village  of  Sel~ 
lack :  its  church  is  of  singular  construction.  The  e.  window  is  finely  de¬ 
corated  with  stained  glass,  dated  l6S0.  Cradock,”  says  Mr.  Fosbrooke, 
^‘‘is  a  fine  old  mansion,  built  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  by  one  of  the  Scuda¬ 
more  family  ;  it  is  now  the  property  of  Lord  Digby.  Lower  down  is 
Fawley  Court,  erected  about  the  same  time.  It  is  a  venerable  looking 
mansion ;  the  fine  entrance,  great  hall,  and  dining  parlour  are  entire,  and 
well  preserved.  Sir  John  Kyrle,  an  ancestor  of  Pope’s  Man  of  Ross, 
resided  here  in  l635.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  below  Harewood, 
is  a  fine  grove  of  trees  called  Caple  Tump,  where  an  annual  festival  was 
wont  to  be  held  from  all  the  neighbouring  places.  About  4  m.  below 
Sellack  occurs  a  most  beautiful  and  luxuriant  view  of  Ross.  [See  that 
article.]  On  the  approach,  a  fine  amphitheatre  of  trees  called  Asliwood, 
skirts  the  s.  bank  of  the  Wye.  The  hill  to  the  r.  of  the  town  is  called  the 
Chase ;  on  the  1.  is  Penyard  Wood,  upon  which  formerly  stood  a  castle, 
said  to  have  been  destroyed  in  the  civil  wars.  About  1  m.  below  Ross, 
Wilton  Castle  first  attracts  attention,  situated  upon  the  margin  of  the  Wye. 


THE  WYE, 


643 


• 

An  assemblage  of  rich  and  woodland  scenery  forms  the  leading  feature.  The 
keystones  of  Wilton  Bridge  lock  curiously  one  into  the  other.  Near  this 
place  a  dealer  in  corn  erected  a  pleasing  residence  which  he  has  skirted 
with  willows.  At  about  2  m.  below  the  bridge,  the  admirer  of  the  grand 
in  landscape  will  be  highly  gratified  after  ascending  the  hill  on  the  high 
road  to  Monmouth,  whence,  at  a  place  called  Pencraig,  is  a  very  magnifi¬ 
cent  view.  The  distant  church  of  Ross,  its  neighbouring  woods  and  hills, 
the  meandering  stream  of  the  Wye,  all  combine  to  form  the  fascinating 
scene.  Amidst  a  profusion  of  enchanting  views,  which  the  distance  from 
one  bend  of  the  river  to  another  produces,  Goodrich  Castle,  upon  the  sum¬ 
mit  of  a  bold  promontory,  clothed  with  wood  presents  its  aspiring  battlements. 
For  a  detail  of  the  manifold  attractions  of  Goodrich  Court  see  p.542. 

About  1  m.  below  the  castle  are  the  remains  of  Goodrich  Priory.  From 
the  ascent,  approaching  the  village  of  Goodrich,  a  rich  and  extensive  view 
presents  itself  across  the  Forest  of  Dean,  whence  Rurer-dean  Church  hap¬ 
pily  breaks  upon  the  eye.  Here  the  Wye  in  a  long  and  serpentine  reach 
appears  in  perspective,  affording  a  pleasing  terminus  to  the  scenery  :  its 
banks  are  screened  on  the  s.  by  an  extensive  coppice  wood,  and  on  the  n. 
by  fertile  meadows  rising  towards  Bishop’s  Wood,  from  which  a  considerable 
iron  furnace  in  this  vicinity  derives  its  name.  From  Lidbrook  large  quan¬ 
tities  of  coal  are  sent  to  Ross  and  Hereford.  The  stone  quarries  in  this 
neighbourhood  supplied  materials  for  building  the  bridge  at  Bristol.  Passing 
down  the  river,  the  next  object  which  attracts  notice  is  Courtfield,  the  seat  of 
the  Vaughans,  The  picturesque  village  of  Welsh  Bieknor  presents  itself 
in  a  rich  valley  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Wye,  happily  over-shadowed  by  a 
grand  and  circular  range,  composed  of  Hawkwood  and  Packwood,  extend¬ 
ing  about  1  m.  along  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  village  church  and 
parsonage-house  group  in  a  form  peculiarly  beautiful  and  interesting.  In 
the  body  of  the  church,  fronting  the  reading-desk,  is  a  cumbent  whole 
length  female  figure,  well  sculptured  in  a  darkish-coloured  stone.  Tra¬ 
dition  says  it  represents  the  Countess  of  Salusbury,  who  nursed  Henry  V.  in 
this  neighbourhood.  But  the  costume,  according  to  Sir  S.  R.  Meyrick,  is 
anterior  to  the  age  in  which  the  countess  lived,  being  that  which  prevailed 
during  the  reign  of  Edward  I.  A  little  below,  the  Wye  is  bounded  on  the 
opposite  shore  by  a  long  range  of  hills  clothed  with  verdure  and  diversified 
by  a  rich  and  broken  soil  of  a  warm  and  reddish  hue.  Approaching  the  foot 
of  Coldwell  Rocks,  a  scene  sublime  and  majestic  is  presented.  These  are 
craggy  and  weather  beaten  walls  of  sandstone  of  gigantic  dimensions,  perpen¬ 
dicular  or  overhanging,  projecting  abruptly  from  amidst  oaks,  and  hung  with 
rich  festoons  of  ivy.  The  ruin  and  storms  of  ages  have  beaten  and  washed 
them  into  such  fantastic  forms,  that  they  appear  like  some  caprice  of  art. 
Castles  and  towers,  amphitheatres  and  fortifications,  battlements  and 
obelisks,  mock  the  wanderer,  who  fancies  himself  transported  into  the  ruins 
of  a  city  of  some  extinct  race.  Some  of  these  picturesque  masses  are  often 
loosened  by  the  action  of  the  weather,  and  fall  thundering  from  rock  to 
rock  with  a  terrific  plunge  into  the  river,  which  is  here  extremely  deep. 
The  boatmen  showed  me  the  remains  of  one  of  these  blocks,  and  the  monu¬ 
ment  of  an  unfortunate  Portuguese  whom  it  buried  in  its  fall.  This  ex¬ 
traordinary  formation  reaches  for  nearly  eight  miles  to  within  about  three  of 
Monmouth,  where  it  terminates  in  a  solitary  colossal  rock  called  the  Druid’s 
Head.  Seen  from  a  certain  point  it  exhibits  a  fine  antique  profile  of  an 
old  man  sunk  in  deep  sleep.”  (^Fosbrooke’ s  Wye  Tour.)  Close  to  the  river, 
beneath  the  shade  of  a  dark  wood  near  Coldwell,  appears  a  monumental  stone 
to  a  young  man  who  perished  in  the  river.  The  inscription  informs  the 

T  T  2 


6‘44 


THE  WYE. 


passenger  that  his  name  Avas  John  Whitehead  Warre.  [See  p.  545.]  Here 
Mr.  Ireland  quitted  the  barge  to  ascend  these  majestic  rocks.  The  task, 
though  arduous,  should  not,  he  say^,  deter  the  traveller  from  pursuing  this 
course,  as  he  will  avoid  a  dull  and  uninteresting  passage  upon  the  water  of 
3  m.  From  the  summit,  Goodrich  Castle  breaks  suddenly  upon  the  eye. 
The  New  Weir  and  adjoining  waterfall  with  the  surrounding  healthy 
hills,  ajfford  a  rich  combination  of  objects.  The  village  of  Whitchurch,  in 
the  centre  of  the  vale  beneath,  with  the  vast  hills  beyond,  give  a  termina¬ 
tion  to  this  reach  of  the  river.  At  Whitchurch  is  a  second  ferry  called 
Huntsham  Ferry  ;  which,  though  7  m.  distant  from  that  at  Goodrich,  by 
water,  is  little  more  than  1  m.  by  land.  At  the  bottom  of  Symond’s 
Yatt  or  Gate,  the  company  usually  disembark,  mount  the  summit,  and 
descending  on  the  other  side,  join  the  boat  at  the  New  Weir.  From  the 
top  of  Symond’s  Yatt,  which  is  not  less  than  500  ft.  in  height  above  the  sur¬ 
face  of  the  water,  the  spectator  enjoys  a  singular  view  of  the  numerous 
mazes  of  the  Wye,  and  looks  down  on  the  river,  watering  each  side  of  the 
narrow  and  precipitous  peninsula  upon  which  it  stands.  Descending  to 
the  New  Weir  by  the  same  kind  of  rugged  course  as  that  by  which  the 
Coldwell  rocks  are  attained,  the  fatigue  is  amply  repaid  from  an  abundance 
of  beautiful  views,  which  appear  through  the  breaks  iu  the  rocks  or 
openings  of  the  woods.  Mr.  Coxe  did  not  clamber  to  this  summit,  pre¬ 
ferring  the  navigation,  because  he  was  unwilling  to  lose  the  beauties  of  the 
ever-shifting  scenery,  and  a  succession  of  home  scenes  upon  the  banks 
beneath,  to  the  most  boundless  expanse  of  prospect  from  above.  A  little 
below  the  weir,  the  river  scenery  is  terminated  by  what  is  called  King 
Arthur’s  Plain,  or  Doward  Hills.  To  the  emboldened  traveller,  the 
summits  of  these  hills  afford  ample  variety  of  the  beautiful  and  sublime. 
At  a  spot  adjoining  to  the  wood  upon  the  extremity  of  this  hill  is  a  ca¬ 
vern  bearing  the  name  King  Arthur  s  Hall.  Many  fabulous  and  wonderful 
tales  have  been  attached  to  this  cave  ;  the  truth  is  neither  more  nor  less 
than  this,  that  it  was  once  a  rich  mine  of  iron  ore,  which  supplied  the 
contiguous  furnaces.  A  detached  cluster  of  rocks  called  St.  Martin  s  or 
the  Three  Sisters,  skirt  the  river  in  passing  down,  near  which,  at  a  short 
reach  called  St.  Martin’s  Well,  the  stream  is  supposed  to  have  a  greater 
depth  of  water  than  in  any  other  part.  At  the  extremity  of  this  reach, 
from  a  beautiful  vale,  King  Arthur’s  Plain  again  presents  itself,  assuming 
a  castellated  form.  About  2  m.  short  of  Monmouth,  Hadnock  House 
demands  attention.  It  is  situated  upon  the  edge  of  the  Forest  of  Dean, 
and  stands  upon  the  brow  of  a  hill,  commanding  a  delightful  view  of  the 
meandering  ’VYye.  Hence  a  road  runs  parallel  with  the  river,  along  the 
base  of  the  hills,  to  Monmouth.  A  distant  view  of  the  bridge  and  town 
of  Monmouth  soon  appears,  with  the  solitary  church  of  Dixon  upon  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river.  From  Monmouth  Mr.  Ireland  made  an  ex¬ 
cursion  to  Ragland  Castle.  [See  those  places.]  Returning,  he  resumed 
his  passage  down  the  Wye.  The  retrospect  was  pleasing ;  including  the 
spire  of  the  church,  the  town  bridge,  and  surrounding  scenery.  The  many 
beautiful  objects  which  adorn  the  banks  of  the  Wye  between  Ross  and 
Monmouth,  deprive  in  some  degree  the  excursion  from  hence  to  Tintern 
of  that  interest  it  would  otherwise  hold  in  the  tour.  But  by  the  eye  of 
observation,  few  parts  of  the  county  can  be  surveyed  with  indifference  ; 
for  although  this  portion  of  the  river  may  fail  to  afford  the  pleasure  which 
results  from  historic”  reflection,  yet  the  ever-varying  face  of  nature  is 
sure  to  hold  captive  his  attention.  The  thinking  faculties,  aroused  and 
called  into  action  during  the  preceding,  will  now  be  relieved  by  those  pas- 


THE  WYE. 


645 

toral  scenes  which  are  so  peculiarly  calculated  to  attune  or  compose  the 
mind.  The  hill  opposite  to  Monmouth  is  called  the  Kymin,  the  summit 
of  which  is  crowned  by  a  pavilion.  This  spot  commands  a  most  exten¬ 
sive  and  diversified  view.  About  1  m.  further  is  an  immense  large  rock 
called  the  Buck  Stone.  It  is  situated  upon  the  extreme  edge  of  the  hill 
standing  upon  a  point  so  equipoised,  that  by  the  application  of  a  small 
force  it  may  be  shaken. 

Approaching  the  junction  of  the  Monnow  with  the  Wye^  the  side  scenes 
of  the  latter  increase  in  richness  both  of  wood  and  verdure,  with  pleasing 
breaks  in  the  distance.  A  little  below  this  point,  a  small  river,  called  the 
Trothy,  unites  with  the  Wye,  flowing  near  a  respectable  mansion  called 
Troy  House,  possessed  by  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  to  whom  it  descended 
from  Sir  Charles  Somerset.  [See  p.  438.]  Amid  rich,  beautiful,  and  fertile, 
though  hilly  scenery,  reach  Upper  Redbrook,  which  separates  Monmouth  from 
Gloucestershire,  purchased  by  government  from  Lord  Gage,  on  account  of  its 
fine  oak  timber.  At  Lower  Redbrook  is  a  manufactory  of  iron  and  tin, 
whose  fires  gleam  in  red,  blue,  and  yellow,  and  blaze  up  through  lofty 
chimneys,  where  they  assume  at  times  the  form  of  huge  glowing  flowers, 
when  the  fire  and  smoke,  pressed  down  by  the  weight  of  the  atmosphere,  are 
kept  together  in  a  compact  motionless  mass.  These  works  are  set  in  motion 
by  an  immense  water-wheel,  which  again  revolves  two  or  three  of  smaller 
dimensions.  It  has  the  power  of  80  horses,  and  the  whirling  rapidity  of 
its  revolutions,  the  frightful  noise  when  first  set  going,  the  furnaces  around 
vomiting  fire,  the  red-hot  iron,  and  the  half  naked  black  figures  brandish¬ 
ing  hammers  and  other  ponderous  instruments,  and  throwing  around  the 
red  hissing  masses,  form  an  admirable  representation  of  Vulcan’s  smithy.” 
(^Wye  Tour,  p.  43.)  -l  m.  below  this  place  the  Wye  receives  a  small 
stream  called  Whitebrook.  Beyond  this  spot  the  river  forms  a  grand  sweep, 
flowing  into  an  abyss,  between  two  ranges  of  lofty  hills,  thickly  overspread 
with  woods.  At  about  the  distance  of  a  mile  stands  St.  Briavets  Castle, 
upon  an  eminence  above  the  river.  The  remains  of  this  fortress  indicate 
that  it  has  been  of  considerable  extent  and  of  great  strength.  It  was 
built  by  Milo  de  Bohun,  Earl  of  Hereford,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  The 
custody  of  St.  BriaveFs,  with  the  Forest  of  Dean,  was  granted  to  John 
de  Monmouth,  in  the  eighteenth  year  of  King  John.  The  Duke  of  Beau¬ 
fort,  under  whose  direction  the  castle  is  kept  in  repair,  is  lord  of  the  manor. 
The  w.  front  of  the  tower  is  used  as  a  prison.  The  views  of  the  surround¬ 
ing  country  from  these  ruins  are  extensive  and  beautiful.  Returning  to  the 
boat,  pass  Big' s~Weir  Bridge,  one  of  the  most  elegant  specimens  of  the 
kind  in  the  kingdom,  the  cost  of  which  amounted  to  5982Z.  The  form  is 
elliptic,  span  I60  ft.,  the  left  side  stands  in  Gloucestershire,  the  right  in 
Monmouthshire.  The  castings  were  executed  by  Messrs.  Bough  and  Smith, 
of  Enfield,  Middlesex.  The  whole  expense  of  land,  making  road,  toll¬ 
houses,  and  other  appendages,  amounted  to  17;000Z.  Near  this  stands 
the  house  of  Geo.  Rooke,  Esq.,  whose  father  captured  Gibraltar ;  and  on 
the  opposite  side  Pilson  House  appears  in  the  background.  Through  a 
range  of  beautiful  scenery  pass  the  curious  settlement  of  Llandogo,  scattered 
among  trees  upon  the  side  of  a  hill.  Here  the  Wye  makes  a  fine  curve,  of 
which  the  right  screen  is  formed  by  a  very  extensive  and  lofty  hill,  every 
part  is  studded  with  cottages,  from  the  river  to  the  summit  of  this  eleva¬ 
tion.  Nearly  through  the  centre  of  the  hill  that  backs  the  village  is  a  deep 
ravine,  called  Clydden  Shoots,  which,  when  the  hills  are  full,  forms  a  beauti¬ 
ful  cascade.  The  summit  commands  a  very  interesting  view.  Here  the  river 
forms  a  smooth  bay,  over  which  the  vessels  glide,  or  lay  moored  to  take  their 

T  T  3 


646 


THE  WYE. 


freight.  The  tract  of  woodland^  called  the  Hudknolls,  form  a  beautiful 
background  to  this  charming  scene.  Those  who  pass  from  Chepstow  to 
Monmouth  by  St.  Briavers_,  will  be  well  repaid  for  a  walk  to  the  point  ad¬ 
joining  the  Castle^  in  which  the  New  Bridge^  and  country  on  the  opposite 
shore  of  the  Wye,  appear  to  great  advantage.  A  respectable  Inn  affords 
kind  attention  to  visitors  during  their  stay.  A  little  below  gently  flows 
Cai'dithel  Weir,  whence  drop  pleasantly  down  the  stream  to  another  village, 
called  Brock  Weir,  the  fourth  port  on  the  Wye,  half-way  from  Monmouth 
to  Chepstow.  Goods  from  the  former  place  are  here  shipped  and  conveyed 
in  larger  vessels  to  Bristol  and  other  places.  The  village  is  chiefly  inha¬ 
bited  by  watermen,  who  navigate  the  vessels  employed  in  this  trade.  The 
river,  in  an  easy  meandering  course,  soon  introduces  a  view  the  most  pic¬ 
turesque,  including  the  splendid  and  very  elegant  ruins  of  Tintern  Abbey, 
which  appear  with  great  effect  from  the  river.  In  approaching  this  vene¬ 
rable  remain,  the  steep  hills,  the  hanging  woods,  the  rolling  stream,  the 
nodding  ruin,  the  surviving  monuments  of  fallen  grandeur  and  beauty  in 
decay  ;  the  opening  vacancy,  the  stillness  and  retirement, — all  aid  the  en¬ 
thusiasm  of  the  spectator,  who  forgets  for  a  moment  that  he  is  connected 
with  the  busy  world.  The  small  Gothic  gate  at  the  entrance  was  evidently 
an  adjunct  of  the  Abbey. 

Having  passed  much  beautiful  scenery  nearly  in  the  style  of  that  at 
Tintern,  the  e.  bank  of  the  Wye  presents  a  screen  of  rocks  not  unlike 
those  of  Coldwell,  called  the  Thorn  and  Black  Cliffs.  The  Wye  is  here 
disturbed  by  the  influx  of  the  tide,  and  marshy  land  appears  upon  its 
shores.  The  rocks  which  terminate  the  grounds  at  Piercefield  are  next 
approached.  They  are  twelve  in  number,  bearing  the  names  of  The 
Apostles  ;  a  thirteenth  is  denominated  St.  Peter’s  Thumb.  They  resemble 
the  bastions  of  a  castle,  and  return  a  surprising  reverberation  of  sound.  A 
little  lower  pass  the  precipitate  rock  called  the  Lover  s  Leap.  A  circular 
bend  of  the  river  next  discovers  the  noble  ruins  at  Chepstow,  upon  the 
highest  part  of  an  immense  perpendicular  rock.  This  majestic  remain 
is  from  this  point  highly  interesting.  The  ancient  Gothic  entrance, 
partly  in  ruins,  the  irregular  breaks  and  prominences  in  the  form  of  the 
building,  which  is  a  mixture  of  the  Norman  and  Saxon  styles,  are  in  many 
parts  overgrown  with  large  clumps  of  ivy  and  variegated  shrubs  ;  sometimes 
beautifully  clustered  among  the  fragments  of  the  castle,  and  again  falling  down 
and  enriching  the  white  and  awful  cliff  below.  The  adjoining  bridge  is 
calculated  to  add  to  the  general  effect  of  the  landscape.  [See  Chepstow.] 
From  Chepstow,  Piercefield  may  very  conveniently  be  visited;  a  spot  to 
which  nature  has  been  uncommonly  profuse,  not  only  in  the  disposition  of 
the  beautiful  slopes  and  waving  lawns  which  form  the  grounds,  but  in  the 
extensive  and  diversified  scenery  which  strikes  the  eye  from  every  point. 
Mr.  Ireland  in  passing  still  further  down  the  stream  found  that  the  high 
impending  screen  of  rocks  on  each  side  of  the  river  rendered  the  passage 
delightful.  Among  these  he  noticed  particularly  the  Red  Rocks  and 
Hardwick  Cliff,  as  peculiarly  attractive.  In  the  latter  large  apertures 
have  been  dug,  extending  40  or  50  yards  from  the  entrance.  In  this 
vicinity  is  a  remarkable  fine  well  of  water,  which  gives  the  name 
Thornwell  to  a  beautiful  range  of  woods,  adjoining  the  termination  of 
Hardwick  Cliff.  At  Ewan's  Rocks,  about  a  mile  below,  the  Severn  breaks 
extensively  to  view  ;  but  at  the  conflux  of  the  Wye  or  in  the  vicinity  of 
Beachley  (the  old  passage  house)  it  is  seen  to  greater  advantage.  The 
distant  hills  of  Gloucestershire  and  Somersetshire  beautifully  intersect 
each  other  in  varied  tints,  while  intervening  castles,  villages,  and  mansions 


THE  WYE. 


647 

of  the  wealthy  on  the  opposite  shore  richly  diversify  the  whole.  The 
distance  composed  of  Walton  Hills_,  about  10  m.  below^  breaks  harmoniously_, 
forming  a  happy  termination  across  King’s  Road  and  the  Bristol  Channel. 
Hence  groups  of  vessels  constantly  moored  near  the  mouth  of  the  Bristol 
Avoiij  though  at  the  distance  of  3  m.  are  perfectly  distinguishable. 

Archdeacon  Coxe  appears  to  have  been  much  gratified  in  performing 
the  navigation  of  the  Wye.  The  Banks,”  he  says,  for  the  most  part  rise 
abruptly  from  the  edge  of  the  water,  and  are  clothed  with  forests  broken 
into  cliffs.  In  some  places  they  approach  so  near,  that  the  river  occupies 
the  whole  intermediate  space,  and  nothing  is  seen  but  wood,  rock,  and 
water ;  in  others  they  alternately  recede,  and  the  eye  catches  an  occasional 
glimpse  of  hamlets,  ruins,  and  detached  buildings,  partly  seated  on  the 
margin  of  the  stream  and  partly  scattered  on  the  rising  grounds.  The 
general  character  of  the  scenery,  however,  is  wildness  and  solitude ;  and  if 
we  except  the  populous  district  of  Monmouth,  no  river  perhaps  flows  for 
so  long  a  course  through  a  well  cultivated  country,  the  banks  of  which 
exhibit  so  few  habitations.”  Convenient  vessels  adapted  for  holding  eight 
persons  besides  the  boatmen,  provided  with  an  awning,  may  be  had 
at  Hereford  and  Monmouth. 

Mr.  Coxe  dwells  much  on  the  description  of  the  Coldwell  Rocks,  and 
Symond's  Yatt.  The  latter  is  not  less  than  2000  ft.  above  the  water. 
The  river  here  makes  a  singular  turn  ;  and  though  the  direct  distance  by 
land  is  not  more  than  600  yards,  the  course  by  water  exceeds  4  m.  In 
continuing  the  navigation  of  the  Wye  to  Tintern  Abbey,  Mr.  Coxe  parti¬ 
cularly  notices  the  romantic  village  of  Redbrook,  the  church,  and  castle  of 
St.  Briavel’s,  the  beautifully  situated  hamlet  of  Llandogo,  and  Brook's  Weir. 
At  the  latter  place  the  river  exhibits  the  appearance  of  trade  and  activity, 
and  is  the  point  where  the  maritime  and  internal  navigations  form  a  junc¬ 
tion.  Vessels  from  thirty  to  ninety  tons,  from  Bristol  and  the  Somerset¬ 
shire  ports,  frequently  lie  here,  waiting  for  the  tide,  which  seldom  flows  to 
any  considerable  height  above  this  place.  The  usual  practice  is  to  go  from 
Hereford  to  Ross  in  a  carriage,  and  thence  in  a  boat  to  Chepstow  ;  but  the 
beautiful  scenery  on  the  banks  of  the  Wye  is  omitted. 

Mr.  Warner  thinks  there  is  no  mode  of  seeing  the  numerous  and  varied 
beauties  of  this  river  so  satisfactorily  as  by  tracing  its  sinuosities  on  foot  j 
and  the  following  is  the  route  he  pursued  from  Hereford.  Crossed  the 
Wye  at  Castle  Green,  and  struck  through  the  grounds  and  farm-yard  of 
Rotherwas,  the  elegant  family  mansion  of  C.  Bodenham,  Esq.  Dynevor 
Hill  lay  before,  and  the  Roman  encampment,  which  receives  its  name  from 
it,  on  the  1.  Hence  he  took  a  farewell  view  of  Hereford  and  its  neighbour¬ 
hood,  the  adjoining  hills,  and  the  black  mountain,  that  striking  boundary 
to  the  N.  w.,  and  enjoyed  a  diversified  and  sweeping  prospect  to  the  opposite 
point.  Our  approach,”  he  says,  to  Holm  Lacy  was  by  a  gradual 
descent  of  nearly  1  m.  through  a  rich  productive  country.  This  is  one  of 
the  many  mansions  belonging  to  his  grace  the  Duke  of  Norfolk.  The 
older  part  of  it  displays  the  Elizabethan  style.  The  more  modern  part 
was  built  about  the  beginning  of  last  century.  Its  situation  is  quiet 
and  retired,  commanding  a  beautiful,  but  confined,  view  in  front.  Holm 
Lacy  was  for  some  centuries  in  the  ancient  family  of  the  Scudamores, 
whose  ancestor,  St.  Scudamore  (so  called  from  Scutum  amoris  divini," 
which  words  he  took  for  his  motto)  attended  William  the  Conqueror  in  his 
expedition  to  England.  Philip  Scudamore,  a  descendant,  settled  here  in 
the  fourteenth  century.  This  was  the  principal  seat  of  the  family  till  the 
year  1716,  when  the  last  Viscount  Scudamore  dying,  the  estate  vested  in 

T  T  4 


648 


THE  WYE. 


his  only  child,  a  daughter.  By  Charles  Fitzroy  Scudamore,  Esq.,  (her 
second  husband)  she  also  had  a  daughter,  to  whom  the  property  descended. 
This  lady  married  the  Duke  of  Norfolk  in  1771^  added  Holm 

Lacy  to  the  princely  domains  of  that  nobleman.  It  was  the  last  Viscount 
Scudamore  who  rebuilt  the  greatest  part  of  the  manor-house.  He  was  the 
friend  of  Pope,  who  frequently  wooed  the  Muses  here.  The  good  taste  of 
the  Duke  of  Norfolk  allows  the  mansion  to  remain  unaltered.  The  family 
portraits,  and  elaborate  carvings  by  Gibbons,  but  little  inferior  to  those  at 
Petworth  and  Chatsworth,  are  still  a  part  of  their  venerable  ornaments. 
The  apartments  are  decorated  with  many  valuable  paintings  by  Vandyke, 
Jansen,  Holbein,  and  other  artists.  Here  is  a  very  capital  picture,  by 
Hamilton,  of  Solomon  and  the  Queen  of  Sheba;  and  Louis  XIII.  and  his 
Queen,  by  Beaubrun,  an  artist  contemporary  with  Vandyke.  In  the  cabinet 
is  a  sketch  of  the  great  Lord  Stafford,  in  crayons,  from  Vandyke,  by  Pope. 

The  grounds  at  Holm  Lacy  are  very  interesting.  The  old  garden,  on  the 
s.  front,  was  formed  on  the  model  of  Hampton  Court,  in  Middlesex,  and  is 
a  very  spacious  terrace.  The  yew  trees,  originally  clipped  into  grotesque 
shapes,  have  been  left  to  regain  their  foliage.  Ascending  the  hill  into  the 
park,  the  scenery  becomes  more  noble,  and  the  landscape  more  expanded. 
From  the  upper  part  of  it  are  commanding  prospects  of  the  Gloucestershire 
hills,  the  black  mountains  in  Monmouthshire  and  Brecon  ;  those  over  Here¬ 
fordshire  and  Bradwardine,  with  Robin  Hood’s  Butts ;  and  the  Clee  hills 
in  Shropshire.  Near  the  parsonage  house  is  a  remarkable  Pear  Tree,  co¬ 
vering  nearly  -j-  of  an  acre,  and  forming  an  orchard  of  itself,  having  yielded 
for  many  years  from  12  to  l6  hogsheads  of  perry.  It  is  accounted  for  as 
follows  : — A  large  branch  having  been  broke  by  the  wind,  its  head  fell  to 
the  ground,  the  butt  still  adhering  to  the  trunk.  Some  time  after  it  ap¬ 
peared  to  have  struck  into  the  ground,  taken  root,  and  formed  a  scion. 
Willing  to  humour  this  lusus  naturce,  the  incumbent  gave  directions  for 
other  layers  to  be  made  from  the  tree  in  a  similar  manner,  which  became 
rooted,  and  bore  fruit.  Opposite  Holm  Lacy,  at  the  bottom  of  an  extensive 
meadow,  is  a  ferry  to  the  village  of  Fownhope,  Passing  this  place,  about 
m.  to  the  N.,  is  an  ancient  Camp;  and  twice  that  distance,  to  the  n.,  is 
another,  occupying  the  summit  of  an  eminence  called  Capler  Hill;  the  latter 
camp  is  doubly  trenched,  and  called  Woldbury.  This  hill  is  finely  wooded  ; 
the  prospects  from  it  are  extensive  and  rich ;  among  which  the  vagarious 
Wye  forms  a  striking  feature.  Here  the  river  makes  a  capricious  turn  to 
the  s.,  and  leads  the  pedestrian  who  follows  its  banks  a  circuitous  walk  of 
6  m.  to  Fawley  Court,  a  venerable  mansion  of  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
and  anciently  belonged  to  Sir  John  Kyrle,  an  ancestor  to  the  “  Man  of 
Ross.”  To  the  village  of  How  Caple  the  direct  path  is  2  m.  Inclosed  by 
a  reach  of  the  river  below  Fawley  is  Ingeston  House,  an  old  and  spacious 
brick  mansion,  long  the  residence  of  the  Hoskyns  family.  On  the  banks  of 
the  Wye,  nearly  opposite  to  Ingestone,  at  a  place  called  Hole  in  the  Wall, 
are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  building ;  the  site  is  now  partly  occupied  by 
many  cottages.  About  1  m.  lower  down,  on  the  Wye,  is  another  of  the 
ancient  Camps,  which  form  a  chain  upon  the  eminences  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  It  occupies  the  summit  of  Eaton  Hill;  the  entrenchments  are  very 
perfect  and  deep  ;  the  area  is  cultivated.  A  farm-house  at  Eaton  displays 
vestiges  of  an  ancient  mansion ;  the  ground  about  it  is  called  the  Park  of 
Eaton.  Opposite  to  Ross,  on  the  w.  bank  of  the  Wye,  are  the  ruins  of 
Wilton  Castle.  Goodrich  Castle,  the  ancient  family  seat  of  the  Talbots, 
rises  upon  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  at  the  distance  of  4  m.  from 
Wilton;  Proceeding  to  Hensham  Ferry  a  considerable  sweep  of  the  river 


THE  WYE. 


649 


is  leftj  which  contains  no  features  particularly  interesting.  Again  crossing 
the  Wye^  you  turn  immediately  into  a  path  through  the  meadows  on  its 
banks.  Here  the  scene  becomes  truly  majestic. 

The  Coldwell  Rocks,  rising  to  a  towering  height  on  the  r.^  alternately  start 
through  the  thick  woods  which  mantle  their  sides  in  lofty  pointed  crags ;  and 
display  broad  masses  of  their  surface^  relieved  by  creeping  lichens  and  diver¬ 
sified  with  mineral  tinges.  Mr.  Warner’s  course  led  him  up  to  a  steep 
and  winding  ascent  to  the  summit  of  Symond’s  Rock,  a  stupendous  pre¬ 
cipice.  Hence  the  river,  just  crossed,  with  its  contiguous  scenery,  appears 
spread  beneath.  In  an  opposite  direction  are  seen  the  New  Weir  and  iron 
works ;  a  short  and  capricious  turn  of  the  river,  the  Doward  Rocks,  and  a 
huge  insulated  craig,  little  inferior  to  the  cliff  from  which  it  is  seen.  At 
the  New  W eir  it  is  again  necessary  to  cross  the  river  to  follow  its  meanders. 
On  the  r.  for  more  than  m.  continues  a  bold  steep  bank  covered  with  beech 
trees.  The  Doward  Rocks,  constituting  a  very  grand  feature  of  the  Wye, 
now  begin  to  open,  opposite  to  which  is  a  very  fine  echo,  from  near  a 
spreading  beech-tree,  in  the  middle  of  the  meadow.  This  path  leads  to  the 
turnpike-road  from  Ross  to  Monmouth,  which  runs  parallel  with  the  river 
for  some  distance,  commanding  a  glorious  view  of  the  Wye.  Passing  the 
bridge  at  Monmouth  over  the  Wye,  and  turning  into  the  meadows  near  its 
margin,  at  the  distance  of  little  better  than  i  m.,  the  river  makes  another 
grand  sweep  to  the  r.,  and  assumes  a  new  character.  Dismissing  its  rocks 
and  precipices,  it  rolls  through  lofty  sloping  hills,  thickly  covered  with 
waving  woods.  All  here  is  solemn,  still,  and  soothing.  An  agreeable  va¬ 
riety,  however,  soon  occurs  at  the  picturesque  village  of  Redhrook,  a  busy 
scene  enlivened  by  active  industry  in  various  forms.  Whitcbrook,  another 
hamlet,  ornamented  with  the  house  of  Captain  Rooke,  presently  succeeds  ', 
to  the  1.  of  which,  on  a  commanding  elevation,  is  seen  the  village  of  St. 
Briavel’s,  with  its  church  and  castle.  The  singular  village  of  Llandogo, 
which  next  opens,  is  disposed  upon  a  lofty  hill,  the  indented  side  of  which 
is  mantled  with  deep  woods,  with  many  small  cottages  intermingled.  The 
river  next  takes  a  sharp  turn  to  the  1.  to  Cacrdithil,  in  a  descent  of  several 
feet  in  the  distance  of  m.  At  the  populous  village  of  Brookes  Weir,  the 
Severn  hoys  ascend  to  receive  the  lading  of  the  Wye  barges,  where  Mr. 
Warner,  left  for  a  short  time,  the  banks  of  this  river,  to  wind  up  a  narrow 
lane  for  another  mile.  He  then  attained  the  summit  of  a  hill,  from  which 
a  prospect  appeared  of  extraordinary  richness  and  variety  ;  behind,  the  fairy 
region  of  Llandogo,  the  busy  village  of  Brook’s  Weir,  deeply  embosomed 
in  the  wood,  and  the  crystalline  river  studded  with  vessels ;  in  front,  the 
village  of  Tintern,  with  the  diversified  scenery  of  the  dale  in  which  it  stands, 
and  the  lofty  ruins  of  its  abbey.  Descending  the  hill,  and  again  crossing 
the  Wye,  Mr.  W arner  proceeded  to  the  Beaufort  Arms,  which  is  a  comfort¬ 
able  inn . 


To  Monmouth.  Barber  j  Gilpin. 

Goodrich  Castle.  Barber  ;  Coxe. 

Tintern,  from  Hereford,  by  the  banks  of  the 
Wye  to  Wilton  Castle,  £0  miles  ;  i.  e.  to 


Goodrich  Castle,  3  m.  ;  New  Weir,  2  m.  ; 
Doward,  2m. ;  Monmouth,  3m. ;  Redbrook, 
2  m.;  Llandogo,  4  m. ;  Tintern,  4  m. 


PLACES  WHERE  THE  TOURISTS,  WHOSE  ROUTES  HAVE  BEEN  GIVEN,  BEGAN, 

AND  WHERE  THEY  ENDED. 


Mr.  Pennant  commenced  his  Tour  in  Wales,  at  Downing,  his  native  place  and 
residence,  and  ended  at  Caerwys.  His  journey  to  Snowdon  was  made  from  the 
same  place,  and  concluded  at  Abergele.  His  third  excursion  was  also  from  his 
own  fireside,  and  his  account  ends  with  Caer  Caradoc,  near  Church- Stretton, 
Shropshire. 

Mr.  Wyndham  entered  the  Principality  by  the  New  Passage,  to  Chepstow;  pro¬ 
ceeded  to  Tintern,  &c.  ;  and  returning  by  way  of  Monmouth,  revisited  Chepstow. 

Mr.  Aiken  began  his  Tour  at  Shrewsbury,  proceeded  to  Llan-y-mynach,  &c.,  and 
returned  to  Llangollen. 

Mr.  Skrine  commenced  his  Tour  in  S.  Wales  at  Glocester,  and  ended  at  Hay.  He 
entered  on  his  Tour  in  N.  Wales  at  Shrewsbury,  and  concluded  at  Montgomery. 

The  Rev.  R.  Warner  began  both  his  first  and  second  Walks  in  Wales,  at  the  New 
Passage ;  he  ended  his  first  at  Chepstow,  his  second  at  Swansea. 

The  Rev.  W.  Coxe’s  Picture  of  Monmouthshire  begins  at  the  New  Passage,  and 
ends  at  Piercefield. 

The  Rev.  W.  Bingley  commenced  his  Tour  in  N.  Wales  at  Chester,  and  ended  at 
Shrewsbury. 

The  Rev.  J.  Evans  began  his  Tour  through  N.  Wales  at  Shrewsbury,  and  ended  at 
Chirk ;  through  S.  Wales  at  Bristol,  and  ended  at  Beachley-ferry,  near  Chepstow. 

Mr.  Barber  commenced  his  Tour  in  S.  Wales  at  Bristol,  and  ended  at  Glocester. 

Mr.  Hutton  began  his  principal  Tour  at  the  Wrekin,  and  ended  at  Mold. 

Mr.  Malkin  began  his  S.  Wales  at  Cowbridge,  and  ended  at  Llanbithian,  near  the 
same  place. 

Mr.  Donovan  commenced  his  excursions  in  S.  Wales  at  Bristol,  and  terminated 
them  at  Tenby. 

Mr.  Manby  made  an  excursion  from  Clifton  near  Bristol,  through  the  counties  of 
Monmouth,  Glamorgan,  and  Brecon. 

Mr.  Gilpin  set  out  from  Manchester,  making  his  first  remarks  on  North wich,  and 
ended  at  Shrewsbury ;  but  in  his  route  is  omitted  the  Lake  of  Bala,  the  Vale  of 
Festiniog,  and  the  mountain  of  Cader  Idris. 

We  commence  with  Mr.  Lipscomb  at  Worcester,  and  proceed  with  him  through 
S.  Wales  and  the  adjoining  counties  of  England  to  Birmingham,  on  his  return  to 
London. 

Mr.  Meyrick’s  Cardiganshire  does  not  assume  the  form  of  a  Tour,  but  is  a  well 
digested  History. 

Mr.  Jones’s  Breconshire  is  on  the  plan  of  the  former. 

Mr.  Fenton  begins  his  Historical  Tour  at  Fishguard,  and  ends  at  the  same  place. 


INDEX. 


A. 

Abba.Llanda,  401. 

Abbey,  383. 

Abbey-cwm-hlr,  530. 

Abbey  of  Grace  Dieu,  19. 
Abbot’-s  Oak,  306. 

Aber,  1. 

Aber-aeron,  5.  88. 
Aber-angel,  245. 

Aber-arch,  229. 

Aber-arth,  6. 

Aber-avon,  119. 
Aber-avonium,  119. 
Aber-bacljan,  487. 
Aberbank,466. 

Aber-bidno,  387. 
Aber-bran-fawr,  112. 
Aber-castell,  264. 

Aber-cegid,  55. 

Aber-coran,  446. 
Aber-cruchan,  347. 

Aber-dulas  Forge,  458. 
Aber-edw- Castle,  297. 
Aberedw,  121.  123. 
Aber-Edwy,  534. 

Aber.edwy  Castle,  610. 
Aberenig-place,  298. 
AberfFraw,  1 . 41.  302. 
Abergavenny,  10. 
Abergavenny,  Earl  of,  11. 
Abergele,  21. 

Aberglasney,  344. 

Abergwidol,  245. 

Abergwili,  98.  344.  569.  575. 

-  Palace,  140. 

Aberhavesyn  Hall,  486. 
Aberhiriartb,  245. 

- -  Hall,  407. 

Aber-llolwyn,  7. 

Aber-Mcnai  Ferry,  463. 
Abermeurig,  321. 

Abermule,  488. 

Aber-mynach,  245. 
Aber-north,  4&5. 

Aber-sychan,  513. 

Aber-Tei6,  179. 

Aberthin,  223.  228.' 
Abertrinant,  33. 

Aberyscir,  100.  346. 
Aberystwith,  23. 

Ackland,  R.  G.,  288. 

- ,  Col.,  288. 

Acton,  634. 

Adair  Collieries,  403. 

Adams,  family  of,  494. 

— ,  Major.  Gen.,  696. 
Adelaide,  Queen,  139. 

Adoxa,  moschatellina,  176.  242. 
Ad  vigesimum,  285. 

Aeron,  Vale  of,  8.  10.  319. 
JEtheriee,  209. 

Afaleur-pren,  3. 


Afan,  St.,  33. 

Afer-Hafesp,  388. 

Afon^Hiog,  266. 

AfOn-y  parc-mawr,  383. 

Agaria,  172. 

Agate,  377. 

Agatha,  St.,  3.97. 

Agnostus,  120. 

Agrostis  minima,  44. 

- vulgaris,  330. 

Air,  application  of  hot,  594. 
Aira  aquatica,  619. 

- Cfflspitosa,  254. 

- cristata,  238. 

- flexuosa,  325. 

- preecox,  238. 

Alba  domus,  401. 

Albemarle  Park,  342. 
Alberbury,  398.  631. 

Alcffi  arcticffi,  75. 

Aleth-Hen,  360.  364. 
Alexanderstone,  99. 

Allen,  H.,  298. 

- ,  J.,  187. 

Allgood,  T.,  511. 

Alisma  ranunculoides,  310. 

- natans,  326. 

Allt-ddu,  330. 

Allt-fillo-camp,  103. 

Allt-y-gog,  344. 
j  Allt-yr-arvaid,  359. 

Allt-yr-Odin,  317. 

;  Allt-yr-ynys,  13.  20. 

'  Allt-yr-ys-grin,  107. 

Alyn,  370. 

Ambleston,  285. 

Ambrey,  29. 

Amlwch,  34. 

Amroth  Castle.  609. 

Anagallis  tenella,  151. 

Anchusa  sempervirens,  307. 
Andromeda  polyfolia,  174. 
Andros,  441. 

Anethum  fceniculum,  216.  536. 
Angle  Bay,  492. 

- Point,  426. 

Anglcsea,  Island  of,  41.  .559. 

- viewed  from  the  Menai, 

153. 

- ,  Marquess  of,  36.  154. 

Angling,  the  best  in  S.  Wale.s, 
93. 

Anselm,  572. 

Anthemis  mobilis,  278. 
Anthericum  serotinum,  177. 
560. 

Anthyllis  vulneraria,27. 311.[351. 
397. 

Antiquarian,  subject  for  an,  74. 
Antirrhinum  cymbalaria,  430. 

- orontium,  6.5. 

Apostles,  the  Twelve,  447. 
Aqueducts,  203.  366. 

Arabis  hispida,  329, 


Aradr  arsang,  18. 

Aramstoim,  642. 

Aran,  vale  of,  407.  412. 

Arbuti,  416.  • 

Arbutus  alpina,  254. 

Arcadia,  Conwy,  212. 
Archaiology,  Myvyrian,  191. 
Arcb-Druid’s  palace,  161. 
Architecture,  early,  253.  265. 

,  Arenaria  laricifolia,  325. 

- - maritima,  65.  269. 

- peploides,  119. 216.  325.  351. 

463. 

- rubra,  65.  314. 

- tenuifolia,  463. 

- verna,  216.  307.  325.  329. 

- viride,  329. 

Arennigs,  elevation  of,  251, 
ArfFeddoged-y-Gowres,  86. 
Argillum  lucargillum,  502. 
Arglwyddi  Llanbedr,  316. 
Argoed,  514. 

Armeria  statice,  65. 
j  Armour,  beautiful  collection  of, 
!  542. 

I  Arnolds,  former  abode  of,  13. 

j  18. 

Arnulph  de  Montgomery,  452. 
Arran-ben-Ilyn,  374. 

Arran  Fowddwy,  251. 

Arrutyle,  420. 

Arthur,  mythological,  109. 

- ,  Prince,  391.  555. 

Arthur’s  Elall,  644. 

Arthur’s  quoit,  90.  356. 

Arthur’s  round  table,  75.  242. 
Arthur’s  stone,  457.  597.  599. 
Artist,  employ  for  an,  478. 
Arundo  arenaria,  216.  351.  536. 
614. 

Asaph,  St.,  562. 

- ,  well  of,  311 . 

Asaph  us  Buchii,  120. 

Asbestos,  39. 

Ash  Hall,  224. 

Aspidium  aculeatum,  55.  634. 

- lobatum,  634. 

- lonchitis,  329. 

- oreopteris,  634. 

- spinulosum,  2. 

- thalypteris,  55.  525. 

Asplenium  marianus,  55. 

- -  nigrum,  325. 

- scolopendrium,  242. 

- septentrionale,3l4.  325.  329. 

- - viride,  126,  329. 

Asserius  Menevensis,  263. 

Aster  tripohum,  536. 

Asteria  arborescens,  638. 

- lacertosa,  607. 

Asteroides,  638 

Astragalus  hyperglottis, 151.  276. 

- uralensis,  119 

Astronomer’s  Stone,  161. 


INDEX 


652 

Atreina  Hepse,  90. 

Athen’s,  St,  227. 

Atheneum  of  N.  Wales,  171 . 
Atherina  Hepse,  90. 

Atropa  belladonna,  234'.  293. 
Aubrey,  130. 

. — — ,  Maud,  346. 

Audley,  Christiana,  332. 

- ,  Hugh  de,  469. 

Augustine,  530. 

Augustus,  second  legion  of,  318. 
Aust,  or  old  Passage,  201.  480. 
Avena  pubescens,  242. 

Avernus  of  the  Britons,  560. 
Avon-gaseg,  335. 

Avon  Llwyd,  513. 

Avren,  story  of,  484. 

Awbrey,  Morgan,  459. 

Ayton’s  survey  of  Holyhead,  301 . 


B. 


Bacham  river,  242. 
Bach-y-graig,  566. 

Bachwy,  source  of,  388. 

Bacon,  of  IMerthyr,  419. 
Bagillt  Hall,  269.  304.  312. 
Baglan  Hall,  118. 

- Cottage,  228. 

Bagot,  Bisliop  L.,  564. 

Bailey,  Jos.,  103. 

- - ,  Joseph,  640. 

- - ,  Lewis,  140. 

- ,  Sir  Nicholas,  35. 

Bakefield,  W.,  521. 

Baker,  J.,  539. 

Bala,  46. 

- lake,  361. 

Baldwyn,  448. 

Baldwyn,  architect,  272.  532. 
Baladun,  Haineline  de,  10. 
Banc-y-\Vinllan,  31. 

Banditti,  resort  of,  416. 
Bangerton,  492. 

Bangor,  city  of,  52. 

- ,  distant  view  of,  157- 

- ISCOED,  63. 

Bannium,  100. 

Banuwch-denni,  423. 

Bara-can,  617. 

Barallier,  425. 

Bards,  British,  171. 

Bahdsey,  Isle  of,  63. 

Barham,  J.  F.,266. 

Barilla,  preparation  of,  213. 
Barlow,  Bishop,  458.  574. 

- ,  427.  582. 

- ,  Hugh,  290. 

- ,  family  of,  189. 

Bar.mouth,  64. 

Baron  Hill,  38.  72. 

Band,  family'  of,  608,  609. 
Barrow,  Dr.  Isaac,  563,  561. 
Barry,  Isle  of,  128. 

Baruch,  130. 

Barytes,  564. 

Basalt,  varieties  of,  178.  252. 
Basilidian  talisman,  444. 
Basingwerk  Abbey,  306. 

- Castle,  306. 

Bassaleg,  472. 

Bassetts,  inscriptions  to  the,  226. 
Bateman,  Viscount,  517. 

Bath,  ancient,  625. 

Bathafarn,  555. 

Battle,  100. 

Beachley,  67. 

Beacons,  the,  505. 

Beauchamps,  11. 

Beauclerk,  558. 

Beaufort,  Duke  of,  231.  645. 

- furnace,  20. 

Beaulieu  Grove,  437. 
Beaximaris,  67. 

- Bay,  70. 

Beaumont,  H.  E.,  403.  592. 


Beautiful,  instance  of  the,  402. 
Beaver,  the,  205.  256.  335.  402. 
485. 

Bee,  Thomas,  321. 

Beche,  M.  de  la,  593. 

Beke,  Bishop  T.,  98.  453. 

Bed,  a  state,  557. 

- of  the  Tudors,  76. 

Bedd-Poi'us,  250. 

Bedd  Taliesin,  31. 

Bedd-y-cawr,  418. 
Bedd-y-forwyn,  319. 

Beddau,  two  opened,  320. 
Beddau  gwyr  ArduQwy,256,257. 
Beddgelart,  78. 

Eeddoes,  J.,  515. 

Bedwas,  473.  514. 

Bedwelly,  514. 

Begwn,  474. 

Bclin  Mount,  358.  398. 

Bellevue,  472. 

Bellot,  Hugh,  633. 

Beividere,  a,  188. 

Benau-bron-y  mwyn,617. 
Benegers,  family  of,  492. 

Berclos,  monument  of  the,  227. 
Berddllwyd,  388. 

Berkley,  Sir  J.,  525. 
Berllan-dywy,  11,  344. 

Bernard,  401. 

- ,  C.,317. 

Bender,  450.  630. 

Berrington,  J.,  544. 

Beth  Gwrtheryrn,  86. 

Bettws,  etym.  of,  184.  257.  152. 
Bettws  Bledrws,  319. 

- ',  Denbigh,  242. 

- ,  Llanrwst,  383. 

- ,  Newtown,  486.  630. 

Bettws-y.coed,  178.^881. 

Bevan,  Rev,  G.  J.,  231. 

- ,  Elizabeth,  294. 

Beuno,  St.,  85.  305.  498.  630. 
Beveridge,  Bishop,  360.  563. 
Bewper,  226. 

Bible,  Bishop’s,  569. 

- ,  Welsh,  563.  626. 

Bichnor,  English,  545. 

■  ",  Welsh,  544. 

Bichton  Chin,  315. 

Biddulph,  Mrs.  M.,  203.  639. 

Biga  Mountains,  387. 
Bigs-weirT.ridge,  645. 

Birch  Hill,  530. 

Bishop  and  Clerks,  569. 

Bishop’s  Wood,  544. 

Blackball,  450. 

Black- rock  Inn,  480. 

Black  Mountains,  18,  293. 

Blaen,  374. 

Blaen-avon,  20. 

Blaen-avon  Works,  12.  513. 
Blaen-bylan,  612. 
Blaen-gwydd-noe,  610. 
Blaen-gwyrtheyrn, 

Blaeu-havren,  385,  386. 

Blaen  Llyfni  Castle,  17.  107. 
Blaen-pont,  183.  465.  * 
Blaen-porth,  30.  184.  465. 
Blaensenny  House,  458. 

Blaen- Wysg,  345. 

Blaen -y-nant,  335.  337. 
Blakemore,  394.  ■ 

Blanenose,  348. 

Blayney,  Arthur,  487. 

Blcchinuni  boreale,  331. 

Bleddin  ap  Maenarch,  101. 
Bleiddin  ap  Cyuvyn,  448. 

Blestium  of  Antoninus,  13.  391. 

434.  ! 

Block-House,  493.  i 

Bloet  Walter,  525. 

Blorenge,  12.  513. 

Blosse,  Sir  R.  I.,  ,  588.  ' 

Blowing-cylinder,  20.  i 

Boadicea,  41.  | 

Bodavon,  76.  j 

Boddelwyddan,  22.  565.’ 

Bodedern,  271 . 


Bodenham,  C.,  647. 

Bodfach  Llanfyllin,  360. 
Bodfari,  240, 241. 

Bodgwidiad,  506. 

Bod  Heilin,  630, 

Bodiar,  271. 

Bodidris,  369.  557. 

Bodorgan,  303. 

Bod-rhuddlan,  352. 

Bodryddan,  312. 

Bodscallan,  353. 

Bod-Talog,  614. 

Bodweni,  51. 

Bodychan,  270. 

Bodysgallen,  215. 

Boia,  568.  577. 

Bolingbroke,  169.  434. 

Bolton  Hill,  290. 

Bone,  a  singular,  131. 

Bone  caverns  in  Gower,  593. 
Bon-iletf-hCi,  280. 

Bonsai,  Sir  T.,  30. 

Bonvill’s  Court,  609. 

Boot,  ancient,  30. 

Borago  officinalis,  216. 

Borth,  34. 

Borthin,  6. 

Borth-Lloyd,  486. 

Bosanquet,  N.,43S. 

Bo.sanquet,  S.,  19. 
Bosheston-Meer,  494. 

Botanist,  a  treat  for  a,  216. 
Botrychium  lunaria,  267. 
Bougainville,  495. 

Boughrood,  297. 

Boulders,  variety  of,  330. 
Boulston,  288. 

Boultibrook,  516. 

Boverton,  586. 

- Place,  228. 

Bovium  of  Antoninus,  63. 
Bowen,  G.,  210. 

- ,  H.  W.,  282.  582. 

- .  J.,  180.  185. 

- ;  T.,  427. 

Bowen’s,  monument  of,  290. 
Bowles,  the  poet,  532. 

_ J  T.,  99. 

Bow  Street,  406. 

Boydell,  J.  635. 

Bradshaw,  Sir  J.,  182. 
Bradwardine,  296. 

Braich-du,  337. 

Braich-y-dinas,  3. 
Braich-y-pwll,  89. 
Brampton-Brian,  533, 

Bran  river,  346. 

B  r  a  n  -  ap  •  D  y  r  n  w  a  1 . 
Bran-ap-Llyr,  277. 

Brand  Hill,  517. 

Brassica  oleracca,  88.  216.  278, 
Brawd-ty  or  Broadway,  580. 
Break-sea  Point,  129. 
Brecknock,  92. 

- ,  ^'ale  of,  17. 

Breidden  Hills,  357.  398.  418. 
Brennin-fawr,  206. 

Breos,  Will,  de,  2.  99. 

Brereton,  Sir  W.,  267. 

Brew  Sylvanus. 

Brian,  Sir  Guido  de,  40C. 
Bricket  House,  20. 

Bride,  St.,  106. 

Bridestones,  499. 

Bridge,  Ewenny,  228. 

- ,  New  Inn,  228. 

— ,  Parson’s,  5o7. 

Briogenu,  115. 

Bridges,  remarkable,  132.  392. 
Brigstock,  W.  O.,  645. 

Brithdir,  450. 

British  posts,  263  .  465  .  493- 
499. 

- - village,  site  of,  287. 

Briton  Ferry,  118.  2£8. 

Broad  Haven, 582. 

Brocastle,  228. 

Broeh  wel  -  y  r-  C  hy  th  rog,  102 . 630 . 
Brogan, 418. 


INDEX. 


Brogyntyn  Ovvain,  221. 
Brompton,  451. 

Bron-lawr,  3fi4. 

Bron-gwyi),  418. 

Bronwen,  277. 

Bronwydd,  466. 

Bronwyii,  46.5. 

Bronyw,  seat  of,  240. 
Brook-weir,  444. 

Broughton,  Vale  of,  632. 
Brownslade,  493. 

Bruce,  84. 

Brumfield,  Bishop,  332. 

Brun,  Corneliirs  le,  322. 

Br unant,  347. 

Brutus,  484. 

Bryan,  R.,  31.5. 

Brychan  Brcchiniog,  112.  459. 
Brychan  Urth,  462. 

Brydges,  Sir  H.  J.,  516. 

Brymbo  Hall,  636. 

Brynach,  Buarth,  288. 

Brynach,  St.,  287. 

Brynau  Castle,  315. 

Bryn-bella,  240. 

Bryn-Cambric,  315. 
Bryn-Euryn,  23.  242.  352. 
Bryn-Fosydd,  7. 

Bryn-Forchog,  374. 

Bryn-goleu,  321. 

Bryn-gwyn,  160.  441, 
Bryn-kinallt,  364.  639. 

Brynllys  and  Castle,  105. 
Brynodol,  461. 

- Siancyn,  161. 

- tirion,  64. 

Bryn-yr-Eisteddfa,  384. 

Bryum  alpinum,  326. 

- verticillatuin,  59. 

Buckland  House,  17.  234. 
Buckley.  Miss,  450. 

- -  Hill,  293. 

Buck’s  Fool,  494. 

Buckstone,  437. 

Bugaildy,  315. 

Buhr-stone,  2.58. 

Builth,  119.  640. ' 

Bulkeley,  late  Lord,  2.  67.  69.  77. 

- ,  Sir  R.  B.,  67.77. 

- ,  William,  463. 

Bull,  Bishop,  569. 

Bui  liver,  493. 

Burfield,  315. 

Burgess,  Bishop,  569. 

Burgh,  Hubert  de,  441.  448.  451, 
Burleigh,  Lord,  351. 

Burrows,  Major  A.,  383. 

Burry  Ditches,  315. 

Burton  Ferry,  426. 

Bury,  E.,528. 

Bushel, - ,  27. 

Bute,  Marquess  of,  421. 

Butler,  Lady  Eleanor,  362. 

- ,  Sir  Arnold,  588. 

Butomus  umbellatus,  386  ? 
Bwa-maen,  502. 

Bwlch,  Agricla,  370. 
Bwich-careg-y-fran,  256,  257. 
Bwlch -coch,  406.  61.5. 
Bwlch-craig-wen,  499. 
Bwlch-glas,  329. 

Bv/lch-gwynt,  478. 
Bwlch-llyddiad,  279. 

Bwlch  near  Tretower,  17. 
Bwlch-Oerddrws,  24.5.  412. 
Bwlch-pen-y-Bawas,  370.  556. 
Bwlch-y-cwm-brwynos,  329. 
BwIch-y-Ddeufain,  4. 
Bwlch-y-groes,  413. 
Bwlch-y-gwyddy],  177. 
Bwlch-yr-haiarn,  382. 
Bwlch-y-maes-cwm,  329. 
Bwlch-y-rhiw-felin,  369. 
Bychton,  heiress  of,  307. 

Byers,  Rev.  J.  B,,  496. 

Byged,  317. 

Byron,  Lord,  449.  517. 

Byssus,  lolithus,  305. 


)5?j 


c. 

Cadair,  Arthur,  109.  423. 

- Ferwyn,  373. 

-  Gwladus,  ^39. 

- Tronwen,  372. 

Cader  Idris,  253.  406. 

- ,  ascent  of,  246.  251. 

- ,  views  of,  376. 

Cadfan,  St.,  173.  303.  614. 
Cadifor-fawr,  612. 

Cadley,  40.3. 

Cadog,  St.,  312. 

Cadoxton,  457. 

Cadaant,  72. 

-  Island,  299. 

Cadrod,  Itavdd, 40 
Cadwalladr,  24.  41.  455. 
Cadwalladr-ap-Rhys,  401. 
Cadwalton-ap-Madog,  529. 
Cae  Castle,  474. 

Caer-Gastell,  319. 

Cae-mawr,  32. 
Cae-y-crochenydd,  108. 
Cae-yr-y-fynnon,  249. 

Caer,  use  of,  360.  486. 

Caerau,  Fishguard,  260. 
Caer-Caradog,  Glcm.,  116. 
Caer-Cestish,  620. 

Caer-ddin,  or  Garthen,  552. 
Caer-Drewyn,  551. 
Caer-dythel-weir,  646. 
Caer-fallwch,  488. 

Caer-flos,  450. 

Caer-foriog,  265. 

Caer-gai,  49. 

Caer-gwrle,  637. 

Caer  Hall,  383. 

- - House,  450. 

Caer-Hywel,  488. 

Caer  Idris,  263. 

Caer-leb,  161. 

Caerleon,  131.  .568. 
Caernarvon,  70.  144.  148. 
Caernarvonshire,  views  in,  56( 
Caerphilly,  162. 

Caer-Rhun,  215. 

Caer.sarn,  406. 

Caer-Senial,  557. 

Caer-Sv/s,  388.  484. 

Caerwent,  166. 

1  Caer-wyddno,  34. 

'  Caerwys,  171. 
i  Caerynwch,  24,5.  374.  412. 

I  Caesar,  camp  of,  533. 

I  Caleb  fynydd,  Cadrod,  353. 

\  Caldecot  Castle,  169. 

- Church,  170. 

I - Level,  473. 

;  Caldron,  Devil’s,  5. 
i  Caldy,  Isle  of,  606. 

Caledfwlch,  ^8. 

Calethwr,  297. 

Callixtus,  64. 

Callwyn,  619. 

Camlin,  411. 

Carn-nant,  467. 

[  Camp,  Danish,  494. 

Campanula  glomerata,  243. 

-  hederacea, 

- hybrida,  259. 

- latifolia,  178.  243.  307.  380. 

-  rotundifolia,  254.  31.5. 

- ’trachelium,  269.  307. 

Campston,  great,  18. 

Camros,  582. 

Canaston,  109.  189. 

Cancer  tuberosus,  607. 

- asper,  607. 

Candage,  .52. 
Cannant-yr-Esgair,  560. 
Cann-office,  172. 

Canon,  family  of,  609. 
Cantleston,  228. 

Canton,  Geoffrey,  572. 

Cantref,  108.  423. 
Capel-anhelog,  89. 
Capel-Bettws,  113. 


Capcl-Coolbren,  459. ' 
Capel-Cynfelin,  32.  34. 
Capel-curig,  17.5. 
Capel-Ddewi,  355.  403. 
Capel-Drindod,  465. 
Capel-dyffryn-HonddO,  102. 
Capel-Foelas,  256.  381,  382. 
Capel-fynnon-fair,  316, 
Capel-Llanfihangel,  476. 
Capel-Llaniltern,  392. 
Caiiel-nant-ddO,  HO. 
Capel-Fenlline,  228. 
CapeUTump,  642. 

Capel-y-fin,  298. 
Capel-y-gorlles,  40 
Capel-yr-Ywen,  339. 

Cappa-yr.  Wylfa,  23. 

Capper,  Col.,  130. 

Caradog,  achief,.6]9. 

- ,  historian,  227.  414.  580. 

- - ,  plain  of,  335. 

- ,  son  of  Alen,  305. 

- ,  St.,  284. 

Caranog,  St.,  184. 

Carantorius  Fompeius,  415. 
Carausius,  567. 

Cardiff,  124. 

Cardigan,  179. 

- ,  Bay  of,  6.  209. 

Carduus  marianus,  311. 

Careg,  406. 

Careg-cennin,  143.  501. 
Careg-diddos,  49. 

Careg-mawr,  182. 
Careg-y-saeth,  279. 
Careg-y-stumlaeth,  405. 

Carew,  186. 

- Castle,  427. 

Carex  atrata,  325. 

- pauciflora,  386. 

- pendula,  243. 

- pulicaris,  243. 

- strigosa,  242. 

Carey,  Bishop  W.  .564. 
Car-Gwillim-ddO,  2. 
Carmarthen,  138. 

Cam  Lludw,  577. 

Carnau  Meibam  Owain,  287. 
Came,  family  of,  580. 
Carneddau,  remarkable,  3.  31. 
66.  155.  174.  206  22.5.  265 
310.  320.  358.  398.  506.  530.  600. 
Carnedd  Dafydd,  55.  325. 
Carnedd  Llywelyn,  55.  336,  337 
Carnedd-y-Filiast,  338. 
Carn-Englyn,  476. 

Carn-Lludw,  577. 

Carn-madyrn,  86. 

Carn-Mawr,  373. 

Carn-Owain,  467. 

Carn-Twrne,  28.5. 

Carrs,  the,  187. 

Carvings,  474.  618. 

Carwed,  40. 

Castell-aber,  Llienawg,  74. 
Castell-Bran,  222. 
Castell-Bronllys,  233. 
Castell-Cadwgan,  5. 
Castell-caer-einion,  630. 
Castell-caer-Lleion,  3. 
Castell-careg-Cennan,  339.  312. 
Castell-Cedwm,‘_82. 
Castell-cevnddu*  8. 

Castell-crwn,  40. 

Castell-coch,  394. 

Castell-Collon,  348. 
Castell-cv/m-Aran,  486. 
Castell-daybod,  323. 

Castell-ddO,  467. 
Castell-dol-frewyn,  484.  487. 
Castcll-dinas-br^n,  233.  557. 
Castell-dinas-Gortin,'.279. 
Castell-dr^slwyn,  142!  341. 
Castell-Flemys,  285.  617. 
Castell-goed-tref,  319. 
Castell-Goronw,  47. 
Castell-Govan-ddu,  488. 
Castell-gwgan,  86. 
CastelUGualchmai,  582.  . 


6  5  4 


INDEX 


Castell-Gwynionedd,  467. 
Castell-Gwys,  454. 
Castell-Havod,  264. 
Castell-Llangadog,  341. 

Castell  Llvvchwr,  597. 
Castell-Maelgwn,  7.  185.  613. 
Castell- Martin-gorse,  493. 
Castell-mawr,  38. 

Castell- Moeddyii,  185. 
Castell-Morlais,  421. 
Castell-Mwrtach,  258. 
Caslell-Nadolig,  184.  465. 
Castell-piggyn,  142.  334. 
Castell-pistog,  466. 
Castell-Poeth,  263. 

Castell. rh 6s,  6. 

Castell-Richard,  452. 
Castell-rhyd-y-brew,  113. 
Castell-Sengennith,  423. 
Castell-Sunnyhill,  617. 
Castell-Tinbolt,  531. 
Castell-Tyberri,  615. 
Castell-Yndalig,  8.  30.  209. 
Castell-llan-yin-dyfri,  341. 
Castella  House,  224. 

Castle,  a  real  Welsh,  326. 
Castle-bryn-Ainlwg,  315. 

Castle  House,  289. 

Castle- ditches,  586. 

Castlemain,  Lord,  360. 
Castle-Rock,  127. 

Castleton,  475. 

Castletown,  127. 

Castrum  Eestivum,  264. 
Castrum-de-Llanhefr,  479. 
Castrum-  Pontii,'580. 

Caswallan  Llaw-hir,  41.  353. 
Cathedine,  107- 
Catherine,  St.,  Chapel  of,  424. 
Cattwg,  17.  102.  392,  459. 

Cave,  Cynllo’s,  183. 

Cave  Hill,  22. 

Caves,  22.  228.  242.  300.  340. 
£43.  348.  458.  507.  546.  564, 
565.  586.  608.  644. 

Cawdor,  Lord,  340.  347.  425. 
454.  493. 

Cawellyn  Ddu,  409. 

Cecils,  a  seat  of,  13.  20. 
CefFyl-pren,  182. 

Cefn  Amlwch,  13.  20. 
Cefn-Cadfan,  506. 

Cefn-caer,  404. 

Cefn-carnedd,  388.  484. 

Cefn,  cave  of,  242. 

Cefn-ceido,  529. 

Cefn.creini,  381. 

Cefn-faer,  255. 

Cefn-ffordd,  231. 
Cefn-garthmill,  450. 
Cefn-hen-dre,  406. 

Cefntilla,  527. 

Cefn-y-bryn,  457. 
Cefn-y-gastell,  398. 

Cefn-y-dref,  261. 

Cefn-yr-ogo,  22. 

Cegidog,  22. 

Cegin,  source  of  the,  156. 
Ceibwr,  476. 

Cell-worth,  64. 

Ceiriog,  LlansanfFraid-glyn,’364. 
Cellan,  319,  320. 

Cemmaes,  38. 

Cemmaes-bychan,  245. 

Cenarth,  183.  205.  465. 
Cephalaspis,  437. 

Cerastium,  alpinum,  329. 
Cerig-y-druiuon,  190. 
Cernioge,  192. 

Ceunant-mawr,  326. 

Cewidd,  St.,  303. 

Chabert,  P.,  100. 

Chalcedony,  377. 

Chambers,  W.,  354. 

Champney,  Lady  M.,  214. 
Chancery,  7. 

Chandos,  R.  de,  471. 

Chantrey,  sculpture  of,  272. 
Chapel,  St.  Govan’s,  494. 


Charles  I.,  18  .  480  .  516. 

Charles,  Rev.  T.,  47. 

Charlton,  Edw.  de,  360. 

- ,  John  de,  629. 

Chasing,  specimen  of,  379. 
Cheere,  sculptor,  430. 
Cheiranthus  sinuatus,  65. 
Chelidonium  glaucium,  119. 
Chenopodium  mar.,  119.  216. 
Chepstow,  194. 

- Park,  440. 

Cherrystone  Rock,  480. 

Chert,  56. 

Chess,  game  of,  207. 

Child,  Lewis,  188. 

Chirbury,  486. 

Chirk.,  202. 

- Castle,  639. 

p3.rk  203 

Chlora  pprfoliata,  226.  269.  627. 
Chrvsoplenium  alternifolium, 
430. 

Christ-church,  473. 

Christianity,  early,  568. 

Church,  most  ancient  British, 
161.  466. 

Churches,  village,  597. 

- ,  British  and  Norman,  346. 

Cichorium  intybus,  216. 

Cilfay  Hill,  599. 

Cilgerran,  204. 

- Castle,  182. 

Cilgetty,  609. 

Cilgwgan,  6. 

Cilgwgan-fawr,  6. 

Cilgwrgan,  451. 

Ciliau  Park,  8. 

Cilcennyn,  8. 

Cil-maen-llwyd,  401. 
Cil-myn-droed  ddil,  85. 

Cilpyll,  9. 

Cilrhedyn.  611. 

Cilwyn,  478. 

Cilycithod,  478. 

Cineraria  paiustris,  65. 
Cinnamon  Grove,  290. 

Circffia  lutetiana,  278. 

Circle,  Druidic,  263  .  278.  288. 

356.  358.  432. 

Cistanog,  344. 

Cistopteris  dentata,  560. 
Cist-veini,  18.  31.  108.  174.  264, 
265.  476. 

Cistus  guttatus,  302. 

- helianthemurn,  311.  351. 

216. 

- marifolius,  216.  311. 

Clare,  Gilbert,  Earl  of,  139.  619. 

- ,  Richard  de,  469. 

Clarges,  Ladv,  215. 

Clark,  L.  T.,'30. 

Clasmont,  599. 

Clavering,  Bishop,  571. 
Clawdd-Buarth,  467. 

Clawdd  Jlescg,  418. 

Clawdd-Offa,  67.  202.  368.  397. 
Clawdd-y-Mihvr,  577. 

Clay-slate,  46. 

Cledog,  St,  13. 

Clegyr-Boia,  577. 

Clenneny,  499. 

Clifford,  Anne,  430. 

- Castle,  295. 

- ,  Lord,  73. 

Clive,  Lord,  87.  449. 

- ,  Rev.  W.,  399. 

Cloddie  pathion,  383. 
Clogcainog,  555. 
Clogwen-ddu-ymbell-y-Glyder, 
,560. 

Clogwyn-ddCi-’r- Arddu,  159. 
Clogwyn-coch,  325. 

Clough,  Sir  R.,  241.  566. 

Clun,  315.  533. 

Clwyd,  vale  of,  311.  362.  370. 
555. 

Clydach-Noster,  354. 

Clydawg,  478. 

Clydden  Shoots,  645. 


Clynnog-fawr,  85. 
Clyn-yr-egroes,  459. 

Clyro,  297. 

Clytha  House,  19.  441.  528. 
Clywedog,  374. 

Cnapen,  game  of,  612. 

Cneihwr,  611. 

Cnucht,  621. 

Coal,  anthracite,  594. 

Cobham,  Lord,  43. 

Cochlearia  danica,  44.  59. 

- offic.,  27.  57.  65.  216.  325. 

329,  330. 

Cockerell,  architect,  604. 
Coed-Camlas,  289. 

Coed-Edwyn,  171. 

Coed-Euloe,  293. 

Coed-ilhel  Weir,  444. 
Coed-Marchan,  557,  558. 
Coed-mawr,  183. 

Coed'traeth,  609. 
Coed-y-bunedd,  625. 

Coedn,  Arthur,  278.  461. 

Coffins,  265. 

Coins,  246.  468. 

Colby,  454. 

- ,  J.,  613. 

Coldbatch,  315. 

Coldbrook  Park,  442.  625. 
Coldwell  Rocks,  643.  647.  649. 
Cole,  Sir  C.,  596. 

Colhugh,  587. 

Colledfa,  555. 

Collen,  St.,  361. 

Collins,  475.  636. 

Collwyn  ap  Tagno,  73.  229. 277. 

- - well,  519. 

Colmendy,  a,  265.  433. 

Colmer,  John,  474. 

Combe  Hail,  515. 

Composition,  a  fine,  370. 
Conan-ap  Sitsyllt,  224. 

Conan  Milyn,  51. 

Conferva  vagabunda,  408. 
Conflict,  last,  of  Wales,  340. 
Concenn,  364. 

Connah’s,  Quay,  293. 

Conovium,  210.  215. 

Convolvulus  soldanella,  27  216. 
351.  497. 

Conway,  Lord  C.  S.,  187. 

- ,  sir  J.,  311. 

Conwy,  70.  210. 

- ,  falls  of,  382. 

Conyza  squarrosa,  311. 
Coldbrook  House,  16. 

Coldwell  rocks,  545. 

Columbary,  account  of,  265. 
Copa’r’leini,  310. 

Copped-wood  Hill,  544. 
Copper-work,  account  of,  416. 
Copper  mines,  35. 

Coracle,  the,  142.  206. 
Cornu-y-Plinliramon,  386. 
Corbett,  A.,  66. 

1  - ,  Panton,  450. 

Cornwall,  Sir  G.,  295.  641. 
Cornwalls,  516. 

Cornice  ?,  489. 

Cors-Fechno,  32. 

Cors-y-gedol,  65. 

CORWEN,  219. 

Coryglau,  or  coracles,  142.  206. 
344. 

Cottager,  stock  of  a,  556. 
Cotterill,  225. 

Cothi,  scenery  of  the,  348. 
Cotyledon  lutea,  627. 

- umbilicus, 151.  216.  246.  325. 

Counsylth,  293. 

Coup-d’oeil,  striking,  570. 

Court  Field,  545. 

Courtesy,  Welsh,  423. 
COWBRIDGE,  22.3. 

Coytmore  Hywel,  380. 

Crabhall,  P.  de,  584. 

Cradog  ap  Gwillym,  99. 
Cradock,  642. 

- freich  fras,  547. 


INDEX 


655 


Craig  Castle,  311. 

Craig- Arthur,  369. 

Craig- Eyarth,  558. 

Craig-feehan,  369. 

Craig-Ferwyn,  2.55. 
Craig-garreg-y-gsvalch,  498. 
Craig- Gwyttieyrn,  465. 
Craig-Llanwenarth,  16. 

Craig- Willt,  215. 

Craiglais,  25. 

Craig-sebon,  337. 

Craig-Siberi,  215. 

Craig-wen,  621. 

Craig-y-cae,  252,  253. 
Craig-y-deryn,  234.  254.  440. 
Craig-y-diuas,  65.  155.  313.  464. 
.500.  502. 

Craig-y-felin-deirw,  364. 
Craig-y-frwyn,  .369. 
Craig-y-gaercyd,  624. 

Craig-y.go,  173. 

Craig-y-Grybni,  371. 
Craig-y-gwyni,  244. 
Craig-y-llyn-fawr,  422. 
Craig-y-inwyn,  371. 
Craig-yn-auilin,  276. 
Craig-y-parc,  72. 

Craig-y-pistyll,  245. 
Craig-y-Saesson,  472. 
Craig-yr-Usk,  393. 

Crane,  G,,  594. 

Cregrina,  298. 

Creiddian,  216. 

Creselley,  187.  427. 

Cre.'^pigny,  arms  of,  290. 

Crew,  Sylvanus,  379. 

Crib-y  Dde.scil,  325. 
Crib-Ddistyll,  159. 

Crick,  528. 

Crickhowel,  230. 

Cringell,  458. 

Crithmum  marit.,  65.  216.  351. 
Croes-  Ati,  268. 

Croesau,  363. 

Croesford,  383. 

Croes- Gy nvvyl,  347. 
Croes-y-bronbil,  228. 

Croft  Castle,  517. 

Crogen,  531. 

Cromlech,  specimens  of,  86.  155. 
207. 

Cromlech  au,  207.  209.  221.  223. 
225.  233.  264.  285.  356.  397. 
477.  493.  597. 

Cromwell,  Oliver,  564.  566. 
Cronllwyn,  478. 

Cross  in  a  circle,  265. 

- ,  ancient,  322.  414. 

Crowe,  family  of,  582. 

Crow  Castle,  361. 

_  Hall,  450. 

Crowstone,  444. 

Croxall,  Dr.  S.,  232. 
Croyw-ddwr,  316. 

Crugcaith,  229. 

Crug-coe,  8. 

Crug-Hywel,  231. 

Crug-yn  Udon,  467. 
Crug-y-swllt,  610. 

Crug-y-Wbyl,  467. 

Crurnlin-bog,  601. 

Crwth,  the,  462. 

Crybyn,  9. 

Crybyn-yn-oernant,  369. 
Crystals,  beautiful,  577. 
Cucubalus  Olites,  27. 
Cuniberland’s  scale  of  fine  local¬ 
ities,  276. 

Cunedda  Wledig,  567. 

Cunllo,  St.,  183. 

Cunliffe,  Sir  R.  H.,  635. 

Curig,  St.,  175. 

Cwm-biga,  387. 
Cwm-Boch-llwyd,  327. 

Cwm  Bogin,  102. 
Cwm-Brwyniawg,  159. 
Cwm-Bual,  337,  338. 
Cwm-bychan,  279. 

Cwm  Ceri,  465. 


Cwm-cerwyn,  477- 
Cwm-cowarch,  412. 
Cwm-Cothi,  348. 

Cwm-croesor,  256. 
Cwm-cyffreddin,  239. 
Cwm-Cynfelin,  30. 

Cwm-dyli,  178. 

Cwm-dwr,  345,  346, 
Cwrn-Elian,  531. 
Cwm-Gerwyn,  287. 

Cwm-glas,  178. 
Cwm-graig--ddu,  122. 
Cwm-gloyne,  477. 

Cwin-hir,  483. 

Cwm-Idwal,  327. 

Cwm. land,  531. 
Cwm-cwm-morthyn,  256. 
Cwm-llyn  ’e,  245. 
Cwm-Maentwrog,  256. 
Cwm-nant-col,  280. 
Cwm-Nedd,  119. 
Cwm-Rheidol,  32. 

Cwm-Yoy,  13. 
Cwrt-bryn-y-beirdd,  339. 
Cwrt- Henry,  141.  , 

Cwrt-Kobert,  598. 
Cvvrt-Sion-Young,  97. 
Cwrt-y-Dafydd,  519. 
Cwrt-y-gollen,  13.  232. 
Cwtter-yr-Eurychod,  337. 
Cwys-uch-bannog,  617. 
Cyathea  fragilis,  320. 

- incisa,  176. 

Cybi,  St.,  136  299,  300.  356. 
CyfF  Elian,  354. 

Cyff’ern,  .581. 

Cyffin,  Lady,  217. 

Cyffylliog,  240. 

- ,  Vale  of,  627. 

Cyllell-hirion,  3! . 

Cymmer  Abbey,  248.  250.  373. 
Cymmerau,  398. 

Cynbryd,  352. 

Cynddelw,  373.  418. 

Cyndeyrn,  562. 

Cyn.fael,  falls  of,  383. 

Cynllo,  St.,  466. 

Cynoglossum  officinale,  234. 
Cynon,  319. 

Cynog,  St.,  100.  371. 

Cynvrig,  Rwth,  190. 

Cynwyl,  St.,  568. 

- Caio,  347. 

Cynyr,  49. 


D. 

D’Abene,  Sir  J.,  414. 
Daeardor,  instance  of,  49. 
Dafydd,  St.,  shrine  of,  572. 

- ap  Evan,  465. 

- Gwyllym,  118.  618 

- leavan  ap  Einion,  277. 

- Owain,  563. 

Dagger,  an  ancient,  220,  221. 
Daiman,  H.  H.,313. 

Dais,  specimen  of  the,  309. 
Dale,  583. 

Dalecothy,  347. 

Daii-y-graig,  20. 

Dan-y-parc,  17.  232. 

Daphne  laureola,  243. 

Darland  Hall,  636. 
Darran-rh6s-y-careg,  405. 
David,  Archbishop,  569. 
Davies,  Archdeacon,  575. 

- ,  Bishop  R.,  569. 

- ,  Col.,  451.  630. 

- ,  David,  356. 

- ,  Dr.  J.,  370.  411. 

- ,  Rev.  Goronwy,  69. 

- ,  James,  440.  528. 

- ,  Bryce,  486. 

- ,  Rev.  Walter,  322. 

- ,  Robert,  242.  430. 

- ,  W.,  458. 

Davis,  Dr.  J.  R.,  370.  411.:423. 
- ,  Mrs.,  517. 


Davy,  Sir  J.,  113. 

Debacle,  traces  of,  295. 

Dee,  source  of,  374. 

Deed, an  ancient,  19. 

Defeat  of  Henry  II.,  293. 
Defferd,  architect,  271. 
Deiniol,St.,  53. 

Deio  ab  levan  ddtl,  32. 

De  la  Beche,  M.,  quoted,  593. 
De  la  Roche,  or  De  Rupe,  237. 
581. 

Denbigh,  235. 

Depressions  of  the  earth,  singu¬ 
lar,  494.  589. 

Dermis,  Bishop  H.,  53. 
Derri-fach,  14. 

Derri-goch,  321. 

Derry-Ormond,  319. 

Derwenlas,  406. 

Desaguliers,  Dr.,  527. 
Despencer,  Hugh,  236. 
Despencers,  les,  469. 

De  Vale,  583. 

Devanner  Park,  500. 

Devanus,  St.,  578. 

Devaudon,  528. 

- Hill,  440. 

Devereux,  Bryce,  106. 

Devil’s  kitchen  and  pots,  327. 
Devynock  and  Castle,  113.  346. 
Diganwy  and  Castle,  214.  311. 
Digby,  Sir  Kenelrn,  308.  432. 
Dihewyd,  8. 

Dilronw,  derivation  of,  103. 
Dillwyn,  L.  LI.,  594.  599. 

Dinas  Bran,  551. 

Dinas  Ceri,  465. 

Dinas  Dinlle,  151. 

Dinas  Gortin,  64. 

Dinas-Emrys,  80.  561. 

Dinas,  Llandudno,  351. 

Dinas  Mowodwy  243. 

Dinas,  near  Coed-mawr,  335. 
Dinas,  peninsula  of,  476. 

Dinas  Borchellyn,  279. 
Dinas-y-bod,  178. 

Dinastow  and  court,  441. 
Din-bryn,  362. 

Din-bryn  Hall,  369.  557. 
Dingestow  House,  438. 
Dinorben,  Lord,  37. 
Dinorddwig,  150.  156. 

Dinthill,  399. 

Din  woody,  W.,  16. 

Diodon,  608. 

Dip,  an  extensive,  383. 

Dipsacus  pilosus,  486. 

Dirfel  Gadarn,  51. 

Discoed,  315. 

Disgwylfa,  231. 

Dish,  ancient  silver,  33. 
Ditch-bank,  521. 

Dixon,  546.  644. 

Dodd,  Dr.,  95. 

Dog,  remarkable,  293. 

Dogfael  Priory,  182. 

Dolarddin  Hall,  358. 

Dolbadarn  Castle,  325,  326. 
Dol-ben-maen,  85.  499. 
Dolforwyn,  487. 

- -  Hall,  451.  488. 

Dol-Gadfen,  486. 

Dolgelly,  245. 

Dol-Giog,  405. 
Dol-in-Bretagne,  568. 
Dol-Llanerch,  611. 

Dol-llys,  385. 

Dolu,  David,  478. 

Dolwyddelan  Castle,  257.  498. 
Dol-y-Carollwyn,  245. 
Dol-y-maen,  174. 
Dol-y-melynllyn,  247.  250.  257. 
Do!-y-melynllyn  Cottage,  375. 
Dol-y-seren.  50. 

Dorset,  Earl  of,  430. 

Douce,  Francis,  543. 

Doward,  Great,  546. 

- ,  Little,  546. 

-  Hills,  644. 


656 


INDEX. 


Dowlais,  works  at,  419. 
Downing,  307,  308. 

Downton,  Upper,  521. 

Draba  incana,  328.  560. 

Drake,  T.  T.,f585. 

Dringarth  river,  502. 

Dru  de  Baiun,  10. 

Druidic  remains,  279.  239.  454. 

457.  499.  582. 

Druid.s,  modern,  70. 

- - ,  temples  of,  477. 

Druidston,  582. 

Drunkenness,  calamity  attend¬ 
ant  on,  181. 

Drws-Ardudwy,  279. 
Drws-y-coed,  499. 

Drws-y-nant,  249.  374. 
Drwydd-garn,  505. 

Dryas  octopetala,  329. 

Dry  Burrows,  492. 
Drym-y-sarn,  373. 

Dubuisson,  Mr.,  343. 

Dubricius,  St.,  89.  259.  620.  See 
Dyfrig. 

Dudley,  Earl  of  Leicester,  237. 
Dulais  Bay,  flora  of,  121. 
Dumpledale,  289. 

Dungannon,  Lord,  364. 
Dunraven  Castle,  588. 

Dunwyd,  St.,  585. 

Dyfi,  source  of,  375. 

Dwarf  at  Gorslwyd,  75. 
Dwygyfylchi,  3,  4. 

Dwynwyn,  St.,  462. 

Dwywyn  Cottage,  442. 
Dydd-sul-y-saint,  304. 

Dyer,  the  poet,  384. 

Dyfi,  falls  of,  411. 

— ,  furnace,  32. 

- ,  source  of,  412. 

Dyflas  Bridge,  406. 

Dyfrig,  statue  of  St.,  331.  518. 
Dyffi-yn-  Aled,  241.  383,  384. 
Dyffryn-Arth,  321. 
DyfFryn-Ceiriog,  368. 
DyfFryn-Clwyd,  306. 

DyfFryn  House,  225. 
DyfFryn-Membr,  561. 

Dynastow  Court,  19. 

Dynevor,  ancestry  of  Lord,  339.  | 
— Baron,  141. 

- Castle,  141.  340. 

Dyserth,  311. 

Dysynwy,  the  river,  251. 


E. 


Eagle’s  Bush,  228.  457. 
Eastington,  492. 

Eaton  Hall,  636. 

Ebbw  Vale  furnace,  20. 
Edeirnion,  Vale  of,  220.  557. 
Edderton  House,  450. 

Edisbury,  Jos.,  551. 

Ednyfed  ap  Aaron,  254. 

- Vycban,  62. 

Edwal  Fychan,  409. 

Edward  1.,  24. 

Edwards,  Capt.  R.,  581. 

- ,  D.,  architect,  39.  47  .  227. 

339.  402.  416. 

- ,  Evan,  architect,  430. 

- ,  John,  50.  487. 

- ,  Mr.,  556. 

- ,  Ven.  archdeacon,  296. 

_ ,  W.,  architect,  297.  342. 

392. 

Eduowain,  a  chief’s  abode,  253. 
Edwinsford,  342.  348. 

Edwy,  Vale  of,  534. 

Edwyn  of  Tegengl,  488. 

Egeston,  W.,  635. 

Egginton,  5b3.  639. 

Eglwys  ddynas,  476. 

- ,  import  of  the  term,  346. 

Eglwyseg  Rocks,  364. 
Eglwyserw,  185.  207. 


Eglwys-fach,  27.  32.  466. 
Eglwysilan  Mountain,  130. 
Eglwys-newydd,  272.  534. 
Egwest,  Vale  of,  222. 

Eidiol,  31. 

Einion-Glyd,  164. 

Einion-Sais,  19. 

Eisteddfa,  184. 

Eisteddvodau,  171,  172. 

Elaeth,  St.,  35. 

Eleanor,  Queen,  637. 

Elian,  St.,  35.  353,  354. 

Elidyr,  496.  609, 

Eligwys,  600. 

Eliseg„,St.,  pillar  of,  364.  557. 

- ,  valley  and  rocks  of,  369. 

Ellyw,  St.,  354. 

Elm,  gigantic,  223.  225.  524. 

Ely  Cottage,  99. 

Elymus  arenaria,  351.  407. 
Elystan  Glodrydd,  122,. 
Empetrum  nigrum,  128.  246. 
Encampment,  Saxon,  291. 
Energlyn,  164. 

Eniskel,,290. 

Entrochi,  638. 

Entwisle,  Hugh,  588. 
Enwrgareg,  242. 

Epilobium  angustifolium,  325. 
Epipactis  palustris,  151. 
Equisetum  limosum,  634. 

- hyamule,  634. 

Ercall,  High,  134. 

Erddig,  551.  639. 

Erglodd,  32. 

Erigeron  acre,  242.  463. 
Eriophorum  polystachion,  174. 
386. 

Erodium  maritimum,  151.  216. 
Erskine,  Sir  D., 

Erw,  St.,  207. 

Eryngium  maritimum,  119.  216. 
278.  351. 

Eryri,  region  of,  175.  259.  559. 
Esgair  geiliog,  406. 

Esgairvraith  mine,  27. 

Especke,  Walter,  36. 

Essex,  Earl  of,  496. 

Essylt,  484. 

Ethelbald,  233. 

Euloe  Castle,  293.  433. 

- -  green,  432. 

Euonymus  Europseus,  259.  293. 
Euphorbia  Portlandica,  151. 

• - peplis,  27. 

Eurfyl,  St.,  356. 

Evan,  Marg.  Uch.,  326. 

Evans,  Dr.,  284.550, 

- ,  E.  G.,  183. 

- ,  H.,  457. 

- ,  J.,  549. 

- ,  K.,  546. 

- -,  Rev.  Theo.,  183. 

Evors,  Rev.  G.  A.,  483. 

Ewenny  Priory,  117.  589. 

- Chui'ch,  117. 

- Castle,  228. 

Excursions,  centre  of  several,  18. 
Eyton,  J.  ap  Elis,  548. 

- ,  J.  W.,  638. 

- ,  W.,219. 


F. 

Fabianus,  watch  tower  of,  134. 
Fach-ddeilog,  50. 

Faenol,  22.  59.  369. 

Faenor,  530. 

Faganus,  St.,  578. 

Fair-carnau,  320. 

Fairfax,  Gen.,  527. 

Fairy  cave,  586. 

Falcon,  Peregrine,  300.  351  578. 
Fanoleu,  100. 

Fardre-fawr,  467. 

Farthing’s  Hook,  287. 
Fawley-Court,  648. 

Fedw-aeg,  379. 


Felin-fach-inn, 

Felin-ganol,  266. 

Felin-Gernos,  466. 

Felindre  Marshog,  477. 
Felin-person,  32. 

Fenton,  R.,  261.  264. 

Fern-Hill,  288. 

Ferrar,  Bishop,  569. 

Ferrara,  Duke  of,  543. 

Ferrars,  Brigadier,  492. 
Festiniog,  255. 

Festuca  bromoides,  242. 

- duriuscula,  254.  , 

I  - ovina,  254. 

!  - rubra,  2.  325.  329. 

Filbatch,  584. 

Finch,  Hon.  C.,  382. 

Finian  de  Stanedon,  46. 
Fish-diet,  influence  of,  90. 
Fishguard,  258. 

Fittes,  399. 

Fitz.  Allan,  J.,  631. 
Fitz-Baderon,  434. 

Fitz-Count,  Bryan,  441. 
Fitz-Hamon,  R.,  455.  519.  585. 
588. 

Fitz-Herbert,  Peter,  17. 

Fitz  Hugh,  T.,  636. 
Fitz-Maurice,  Hon.  T.,  566. 
Fitz-Osborne,  W.  Earl,  295. 
Fitz-Warin,  Fulke,  631. 
Fitz-Valerine,  291. 

Flag,  Llandeilo  and  Builth,  120. 
341. 

Flanesford  Priory,  543. 
Flemings,  introduction  of,  491. 
Flemingstone,  227. 

Fletherhill,  284. 

Flint,  266. 

Floating  island,  83. 152.  157. 
Flowers,  funereal,  118. 

Floyers,  ancient  abode  of,  13. 
Foelas-Hall,  193.  381,  382. 
Foes-Gurig,  579. 

Foley,  Mrs.,  453. 

Fonmon  Castle,  129.  227. 

Font,  beautiful  Saxon,  93. 
Fontinalis  squamosa,  325. 

Ford  Chapel,  285. 

Fordd  Helen,  610. 

Forden,  450. 

Forest,  Dr,,  execution  of,  221. 

- ,  Brecknock,  346. 

- ,  Roscob,  348. 

- ,  submarine,  181. 

Formation,  ba.saltic,  178. 
Fosbrooke,  Rev.  T.  D.,  527.  542. 
Foster,  Mrs.,  400. 

Four  Crosses,  353. 

Four-Mile  Bridge,  Anglesea,  271. 
Fowl,  wild,  familiarity  of,  495. 
Fowler,  family  of,  500- 

- ,  Sir  W.  and  Sir  H.,  530. 

- ,  T.  H.,  53a 

Fownhope,  648. 

Fraethen,  473. 

Fraid,  St,  529.  584. 

Francis,  St,  73. 

Francton,  Adam,  335. 

Freestone  Hall,  187. 

Fresco  from  Pompeii,  628, 

Friars,  the,  72,  73. 

Frith-ddu,  1. 

Fron,  Denb.,  433. 

- ,  near  Llangollen,  370. 

Fron,  370. 

Fron-fawr,  369. 

Fron-felin,  406. 

Fron-fraith,  SO.  32. 

Fron-y-foel  uchav,  249. 
Frwdeu-hen-llan,  466. 

Fryn-ddu,  385. 

Fuller’s  earth,  309. 

Fumaria  claviculata,  221.  561. 

- lutea,  65. 

Furnaces  in  S.  Wales,  595. 
Furney,  Mrs.  J.,  539. 

Furston,  496. 

Furze,  French,  313. 


INDEX 


657 


Fuseli,  artist,  272. 

Fuwch-wen,  386. 

Fychan,  Edwyfed,  352. 
Fynnon-Beuno,  86. 
Fynnon-Cadfan,  173. 
Fynnon-cegin-Arthur,  156.  324. 
Fynnon-craig-cefFyl,  339. 
Fynnon-darogan,  417, 
Fynnon-ddewi,  30. 

Fynnon  Ddyfnog,  239. 

Fynnon  Degle,  369. 
Fynnon-drewllyd,  123. 
Fynnon-frec,  328. 

Fynnon  Elaeth,  33. 

Fynnon  Elian,  354. 

Fynnon  Elwaad,  276.  617. 
Fynnon  Eurfyl,  357. 
Fynnon-las,  561. 

Fynnon  lleinw,  432. 

Fynnon  Lligwy,  56. 
Fynnon-lleseg,  417. 
Fynnon-maen,  381, 
Fynnon-menyn,  215. 
Fynnon-moel-rhiwen,  324. 
Fynnon-pen-Rhys,  100. 

Fynnon  St.  Dyfnog,  555. 
Fynnon  Tydecho,  174. 
Fynnon-vawr,  246. 
Fynnon-y-groftydd,  417- 
Fynnon-y  clawdd-lleseg,  417. 


G. 

Gaer,  101. 

Gaer,  near  Cwm  Yoy,  13. 

Gaer  Morrice,  320. 

Gaer,  Newtown,  486. 

Gaer,  Pen-y-crug,  346. 

Galfrid  ap  Arthur,  563. 

Gallium  borealc,  176.  325.  335. 
Gam,  Sir  David,  11.  19.  99,  100. 
Garden,  botanic,  560. 

Garengyr,  30. 

Garmon,  St.,  152.  369. 

Garn,  Denb.,  240. 

Garth,  629. 

Garth,  Montg.,  472. 
Garth-Gynnan,  369. 
Garthbrengy,  99. 

Garth  en,  357 
Garthmill-Hall,  450.  484. 
Garth-y-neuadd,  382. 

Gas,  beautiful  jets  of,  165. 

- ,  fatal  exhalation  of,  278. 

Gastayn  church,  107. 

Gateways,  25,  202. 

Gaunt,  John  of,  434. 
Gawr-Wittle,  491. 

Geli-y-groes,  514. 

Gell,  late  Admiral,  17. 

Gell-hlr,  600. 

Gellifawr,  falls  of,  478. 
Gelligelynen,  478. 

Gem,  a  Gothic,  416. 

Genarew,  547. 

Genealogy,  a  Welsh,  239. 
Genista  pilosa,  247. 

Genlis,  Madame,  quoted,  362. 
Gentiana  amarilla,  242.  307. 

—  campestris,  307.  325. 

—  pneumonanthe,  599. 
Geoffrey  of  Monmouth,  435.  563. 
Geological  phenomena,  330.  502. 

597. 

Geology  of  S.  Wales,  593. 
George  IV.,  425. 

Geranium  columbinum,  216. 

—  rotundifolium,  242. 

- - sanguineum,  216.  311.  351. 

Germanus,  St.,  431. 

Geum  nivale,  329.  560, 

Gibson,  Bp.  321. 

Gifford,  Miss,  430. 

Giffard,  J.,  295. 

- ,  R.,  463. 

Gilbert,  Earl,  465. 

Gilbert,  Bp.  J.,4.53. 

Gildas  Nennius,  63. 
Gilfach-wen,  321. 


Gimlet,  a  rock  so  called,  230. 
Giovanni  di  Bologna,  513, 
Giraldus  de  Barri,  261.  574.  608. 
Giraldus,  effigy  of,  608. 
Glamorgan,  vale  of,  587. 
Glan-Bran,  and  park,  347.  619. 
Gladdaeth,  214. 

Glandwyd,  556. 

Glanfred,  31. 

Glangwna,  84.  1.52. 

Glan-havren,  450.  488. 
Glan-Conwy,  383. 

Glan-m6r,  355. 

Glanramal,  347. 

Glan-y-groes,  406. 

Glan-y-llyn,  49. 

Glan-yr-Avon,  373. 

Glasbury,  105.  296.  298.  641. 
Glas-Llyn,  386.  405. 

Glass,  painted,  .57.  103.  310.  353. 

361.  376.  474.  563.  636.  639.  642. 
Glasyrah,  406. 

Glaucium  luteum,  27.  151.  216, 
325. 

Glaux  maritima,  65.  151.  216. 

- phceniceum,  216. 

Gloddaeth,  214. 

Glol,  310. 

Glyder-bach,  176. 

Glyder  fawr,  176.  177-  324.  327. 
Glyn,  410. 

Glyn-ceiriog,  364.  367,  368. 
Glyndwrdwy,  557. 

Glyndwry  Park,  222. 

Glyndwr,  Dwain,  254.  367,  368, 
Glyn  Dyfrdwy,  367. 

Glyn,  Jeffery,  54. 

Glyn-havren,  386. 

Glyn-Llygwy,  382. 

Glyn-mawr,  250. 

Glynn,  J.,  85. 

Glynne,  Serjeant,  292. 

- ,  Sir  John,  292,  293. 

- ,  Sir  Stephen,  293. 

- ,  William,  85. 

Gnaphalium  dioicum,  177.  254. 
Gnoll,  Briton  Ferry,  119. 

- -  Castle,  456. 

- Glam.  457. 

Gogerddan,  27.  30.  33.  406, 
Goging  stool,  450. 

Gogarth,  32.  150,  216.  218. 
Goldcliffe,  471.  473. 

Golden  Grove,  135.  141.  143.  340, 
Golf-tyn,  488. 

Golwg-y-byd,  143. 

Goodman,  Dr.  Gabriel,  330.  554. 
Goodrich  Castle,  540.  643. 

- Court,  337.  542. 

- Cross,  337.  547. 

- -  Priory,  642. 

Gorid  Bridge,  266. 

Goronw  ab  Heilyn,  397. 

- ,  Edwin  ap,  269.  321. 

Goronw  of  Is  Cenin,  339.  343. 
Gorseddau,  278. 

Gors-fochno,  30. 

Gorslwyd,  75. 

Gortin,  279. 

Gothens,  family  of,  379. 

Gothic,  florid,  pointed,  573. 

- style,  331. 

- ,  modern,  272. 

Gough,  R.  F.,  459. 

Govan,  St.,  494. 

Gower,  599. 

Gower,  A.  A.,  185.  613. 

- ,  Bishop,  574. 

Grace  Dieu  Abbey,  442. 

Graig,  Mon.  441. 

Grammitis  Ceterarch,  153. 
Granite,  black,  606. 

Grant,  family  of,  582. 

- ,  H.,  228.  457. 

- ,  Rev.  John,  581. 

Granville,  families  of,  456. 

Grave,  Taliesin’s,  31. 

Gray,  lion.  W.  13.,  130.  225. 
Gredifael,  60. 


I  Green  Bridge,  142.  461. 
Greenfield,  228. 

Greenhill,  232. 

Green  Haven,  390. 

Gregynnog, 487- 
Gresford,"635. 

Greville,  family  of,  15. 

- Hon.  C.  F.,  424.  585. 

- Hon.  R.  478. 

- Right  Hon.  C.,  454. 

Grey,  Hon.  W.  Booth,  130. 

- ,  John  de,  554. 

— ,  Lord,  de  Ruthin,  367. 

- ,  Lady  D.  J.,  63. 

- ,  Sir  J.,  629. 

Griffin,  Dr.,  540. 

- ,  Miss,  547. 

Griffith,  Holland,  40. 

- ,  Hugh  D.,  372. 

- ,  J.  W.,240. 

■ - ,  William,  464. 

Grogwynion,  32. 

Gronant  Moor,  310. 

Grongar  Hill,  340. 

Gronow,  W.,  457. 

Grosmont,  269.  440. 

Grosvenor,  Mr.,  350. 

Group,  Silurian,  593. 

Grouting,  Roman,  236. 
Grwyne-fawr,  17. 

Gryffyd,  family  of,  333. 

- ,  Grugg,  73. 

- ,  Gwyr,  459. 

- ,  Maelor,  418. 

• - ,  Piers,  57. 

- ,  Sir  William,  464. 

- ,  W.,  464. 

Gryffyth  ap  Cynan,  262.  357.  366. 
448.  536. 

- ,  ap  Madog,  366. 

- ,  ab  Llewelyn,  322. 

- ,  ab  Rhys,  23.  45.  139.  465, 

Guest,  Lady  Charlotte,  21. 

- Sir  John,  21. 

Gunter,  Sir  Peter,  104. 

Gurrey,  348. 

Gurry.fach,  341. 

Gwaedig,  ridge  of,  583. 
Gwaen-yn-og,  240. 

Gwaen-yskir,  310. 

Gwalter,  31. 

Gwaldus’s  chair,  377. 
Gwalchmai,  583. 

Gwallawg,  34. 

Gwanos,  174. 

Gwayn,  478. 

Gwdderig,  stream,  347. 
Gwdhwglas,  3. 

- ap  Rhys  goch,  40. 

Gwely,  or  couch,  31. 
Gwenteirbron,  614. 

Gwendraeth  fach  and  fawr,  313. 

- - Works,  595. 

Gwenfardd  Dyfed,  492. 
Gwenffrwd,  102. 

Gwenog,  St.,  467. 

Gwern-ddu,  418. 

Gwern-Degle,  369. 
Gwern-Einion,  280. 
Gwern-llwynwhyth,  457.  599. 
Gwernvale,  17.  232,  233. 
Gwernville  Common,  399. 
Gwern-y-cleppoi,  127.  475. 
Gwern-y-fign,  398. 

Gwern-y-fod,  298. 
Gweiryd-ap.Rhys-goch,  40. 
Gwerful  Hael,  378. 

Gwespyr,  310. 

Gwillim,  Thomas  ap,  11. 
Gwindy,  270. 

Gwiniaid,  39. 

Gwitheryn,  305.  381. 

Gwrtheyrn,  31. 

Gwydir,  218  .  380.  382.  498. 
Gwyddyl  Ffichti,  419. 
Gwydryn-hill,  463. 

Gwyn  ap  Gwaithfoed,  Sir,  442. 
Gwyn  fynydd,  388. 

- ,  J.,  17. 


u  u 


6.58 


INDEX 


Gwyn,  Judge,  122. 
Gwyndy,  270. 

Gwynett,  Miss,  130. 
Gwynllyw  Filwr,  470. 
Gwynrie,  Col., 5. 

- ,  Rice,  300. 

- - ,  T.  H.,  106. 

Gwynnes  of  Moel  Ivor,  6. 

- of  Glknbran,  342. 

Gwynns,  tombs  of,  100.  294- 
Gynin,  banks  of,  142. 

Gyrn  Moelfra,  361. 


H. 


Ha-au-rian,  386. 

Hadnock  House,  644. 
Hafod-ynys,  239. 

Hakin,  291. 

Halkin  Hall,  433. 

Hall,  R.,  223. 

Hallelujah  victory,  152.  369. 
Hameline  de  Baladin,  443. 
Hamet,  Sir  B.,  7.  183. 
Ham-Hunt’s  Rope,  545. 
Hamilton,  Sir  W.,  454.  478.  584. 
Hanbury,  Capel,  511. 

- - ,  Hon.  Mrs.,  511. 

- - ,  Major,  511, 

- ,  Sir  J.,  511. 

Hand-irons, 

Harewood,  642. 

Harford,  C.  H.,  64. 

Harfords  &  Co.,  473. 

Harlech,  276. 

- - ,  views  from,  278. 

Harmestone,  290. 

Harness,  hasting,  543. 

Harold,  495. 

—  Sande,  557. 

— ’s  stones,  284.  439. 

Harpton  Court,  516. 

Harries,  Gilbert,  579. 

- ,  J.,  265. 

Harrington,  Lady,  13. 

Harris,  Howel,  104,  105. 
Harrison,  architect,  429. 

- ,  Major,  286.  450. 

Hartsheath,  432. 

- Hall,  638. 

Hasguard,584. 

Hatterel  Hill,  13.  391. 

Havering,  J.  de,  145. 
Haverfordwest,  280. 

Havod,  271, 

Havod  Arms  Inn,  275.  388. 
Havod-yr-abad,  369. 

Hawarden  (pronounced  Har¬ 
den),  291. 

- Park,  293. 

Hawel  Sele,  248. 

Hawkins,  Sir  J.,  102. 

Hay,  294. 

Haycock,  E.,  architect,  528. 
Haywards,  284. 

Hazel-beach,  187. 

Hazledine,  58. 

Head. of  Man,  493. 

Heath,  Charles,  447. 

Heathfield  Lodge,  286.  593. 
Hebog  mountain,  499. 

Hedd  Molwynog,  239. 

Helena,  220. 

Helleborus  viridis,  243. 
Hen-allt,  418. 

Hen-dinas,  261. 

Hendre,  242. 

Hendre-Forrion,  249. 
Hendre-Rhys-Gethen,  380. 
Hendre- wachod,  384. 
Hen-eglwys,  62. 

Hen-fynyw,  185. 

Hen-feddau,  611. 

Hen-gaer,  30. 

Hen-gastell,  609. 

Kengist,  31. 

ITcn-gwm,  358. 


Hengwrt,  250. 

Hengwrt-uchaf,  50. 

Henllan,  465. 

Henllan  Owain,  207. 
Henllan-Pemb.  492. 

Henllan  Place,  240.  242. 
Hen-noyadd,  599. 

Hen-sol  Castle,  223. 

Henry  ap^-Harry,  306. 

Henry’s  Moat,  287. 

Henslow,  Professor,  quoted,45. 
Hepst^,  cascades  of,  503. 

Herbert,  Baron  Edward,  450. 

- ,  Lady  B.,  69. 

- ,  Lord,  of  Chirbury,  448. 

486. 

— — ,  descendants  of,  134. 

- ,  Morgan,  272.  468. 

- ,  Mrs.,  488. 

- ,  Richard,  449. 

- ,  Sir  J.,  effigy  of, 231. 

- ,  Sir  R.,  11.  16.  625. 

- ,  Sir  W.  ap  Thomas,  11. 

- ,  W.,  Earl  of  Pembroke,  277. 

- ,  W.,  of  Havod,  271. 

Herberts,  125.  357.  438.  459.  526. 
Herbrandstone,  290.  584. 
Hereford,  Viscount,  450. 
Hermitage,  232. 

Heylin,  Dr.  P.,  398. 

Hieraceum  alpinum,  330. 

- murorum,  325.  366. 

High-Toch-Wood,  427. 

Hilary’s  Chapel,  236. 

Hill,  Anthony,  129. 

-  Court,  546. 

- House,  17. 

— — ,  Mrs.  Guy,  540. 

- ,  Sir  F.  B.,  631. 

- ,  Sir  Henry,  399. 

Hilton,  582. 

Hiot,  J.,  Archd.,  573. 

Hippurus  vulgari.s,  310. 

Hildas,  the,  57.  221.  340. 
Hirwaun-fawr,  458. 

- works,  506. 

Hobby,  family  of,  456. 
Hodgeston,  496. 

Holcomb,  Archd.,  570.  574. 
Holland,  496. 

Holm,  import  of,  74. 

Holm  House,  642. 

Holme  Lacy,  647. 

Hoi  well.  Gov.,  425. 

Holyhead,  298. 

Holywvell,  304. 

HonddO,  13. 

Hopkins,  Miss,  13. 

Horn,  a  fossil,  620. 

Horsley,  Bp.,  569. 

Hospitia,  112,  Ysbytty. 
Hoskyns,  Sir  H.,  642. 

Hoton,  Bp.,  Adam,  265.  575. 
How  Caple,  648. 

Howard,  Mrs.  Mary,  283. 
Howell  ap  Jorwerth,  409.  469. 
510? 

- ap  Rhys,  231. 

- Dha,  141.  225.  262.  401.  586. 

Howell  y  Fwyall,  Sir,  229. 
Huail,  555. 

Hubberstone  Haken,  426. 

-  Priory,  290.  584. 

Hudnell’s,  443.  645. 
Hughes,'’Bp.,  536.  563. 

- ,  Col.,  22.  564. 

- ,  David,  69. 

- ,  family  of,  94. 

- ,  Gayner,  51. 

- ,  H.,  374. 

- ,  Joanna,  94. 

— J.,  of  Gwernmeth,  320. 

- ,  Mrs.,  Llangoed,  72. 

- ,  Rev.  E.,  35. 

- ,  Rev.  J.,  24. 

- ■,  Thomas,  482. 

Hugo,  St,  45k 
Humfries,  W.,  360. 

Humphries,  J.,  630. 


Humphries,  Mrs.,  418. 

- ,  Pennant,  48ffi 

- ,  R.  M.,  178. 

Humulus  lupulus,  314. 
Huntingdon,  Countess  of,  104. 
Hunt,  Le,  585. 

Huntley,  Rev.  R.  W.,  631. 
Huntsman’s  Leap,  491. 

Huttonia  palustris,  627. 

Hutton,  Mr.,  tourist,  60. 

Hwfa  ap  Cunddelw,  299. 
Hwlfordd,  R  de,  28k 
Hygra,  387. 

Hymenophyllum  Tunbridgense, 
252.  325. 

- Wilsoni,  325. 

Hypericum  androsasmum,  119. 

- elodes,  151. 

- montanum,  3. 

- pulchrum,  119. 

Hypnum  riparium,  305. 

Hywell,  17.  41.  488.  668. 

- Hoel  ap  Einion  Llyghir, 

366. 


I. 

lago,  uncle  to  Howel,  409. 
Idloes,  St.,  384. 

Idris,  369.  557. 

Idwal,  327. 

levan  ab  Bedo  Gwyne,  357. 

Ifor  Bach,  or  Petel,  394. 

-  Hael,  127.  475. 

I  fan  Eglwys,  294. 

Illtyd,  St,  18.110.  373.587. 
Ingo,  tomb  of,  280. 

Ingoch,  trout  so  called,  10. 
Institution,  Swansea,  594. 

- ,  Flint,  307. 

Intrenchments,  British  :  — 
Allt-fillo,  103. 

Coed-fenni,  101. 

Moel-Fenlli,  370. 

Pen-y-crug,  101. 

Pen-yr-heol  Einion,  104. 
Pwl-y-lewrw,  104. 
Twyn-y-Gaer,  113. 

- ,  ancient,  163.  461.  467.  474. 

Inula  crithmoides,  463. 
Inundations,  71.  73. 

Inys  Cefni,  62. 

Iron,  produce  of,  420. 

- ,  fusion  of,  594. 

Isca  Silurum,  131. 

Isles,  Hilbree,  307. 

Ismael,  568.  581. 

Isoetes  lacustris,  325.  560. 
Is-y-gareg,  404. 


J. 

Jack’s  Sound,  428. 

James, - ,  442. 

- ,  W.  M.,  94. 

Jasper,  Duke  of  Bedford,  331. 
Jasper,  specimens  of,  377. 
Jeffreys,  Dame  Dor.,  63k 
Jenkin,  Thomas  ap  Gwilym, 
528. 

Jenkins,  Sir  Leoline,  223. 

- ,  Llewelyn,  392. 

Jenkinson,  Bishop  J.  B.,  575. 
Jersey,  Earl  of,  118. 

Jesse,  root  of,  delineated,  239. 
376. 

Jestyn,  492. 

- ap  Gwrgan,  455.  505. 

Johnes,  Thomas,  181.  271.  532. 

- ,  Ed.,  M.D.,450. 

Johnson,  Dr.  S.,  240. 

Johnston,  290.  427. 

Jones,  Capt,  W.,  487. 

- ,  Capt.,  R.  N.,  357. 

- ,  Col.,  66. 

- ,  C.  R.,  593. 

- ,  Foulke,  330. 


INDEX 


659 


Jones,  Hugh,  50. 

- ,  Inigo,  438. 

- ,  J.,  442. 

- ,  John,  Nant  Eds,  322. 

- ,  Maurice,  376. 

- ,  Mrs.,  Llanrhaiadyr,  377. 

- - ,  Mrs.,  Brecon,  99. 

- ,  Mrs.  Catherine,  370. 

- ,  Mrs.  H.  ,R.,  450. 

— ,  Owen,  191. 

- ,  Rev.  M.  H.,  547. 

■ - ,  Robert,  Fonmon,  129. 

- - ,  Sir  W.,  207.  427. 

- ,  Sir  Thomas,  397. 

- ,  T.,  artist,  303.  535. 

- ,  W.,  441.  528. 

- ,  W.  E.,  441. 

Joneses  of  Ty-glyn,  6.  8. 

Jordan,  Mr.,  Durnpledale,  289. 
Jorwerth,  572. 

- ap  Owain,  469. 

Judgment,  instance  of  retribu¬ 
tive,  588. 

Julius  Julianus,  137. 

Juncus  glaucus,  278. 

- squamosus,  329. 

- triglumus,  560. 

Jungermannia  alpina,  254. 

- asplenoides,  305. 

- julacea,  254. 

- -  minium,  254. 

Juniperus  communis,  216.  329. 
Jupupania,  derivation  of,  128. 

K. 

Kate  of  Cymmau,  638. 

Kemeys,  family  of,  137.  359. 474. 
625. 

Kenfig  or  Cynfeg-Castle,  519. 
Kennedy,  J.,  174. 

Kenrick,  Col.  R.,  557. 
Kensington,  Lord,  427. 
Kentigern,  563. 

Kenyon,  Lord,  429. 

Kerry,  315. 

Keymer,  Mr.,  314. 

Kidwelly,  312. 

Kilhen  Hall,  432,  433. 
Kilhewydd,  450. 

Kinmell  Park,  22.  564. 
Kinnerton  Chapel,  315. 
Kinsham  Court,  517. 

Kinsley  Wood,  314. 

Kirk,  derivation  of,  477. 

Knight,  Thos.  Andrew,  514. 

• - ,  effigy  of  a,  496. 

Knighton,  314. 

Knights  Templars,  189. 

- ,  chapel  of,  306. 

Knill,  516. 

Knox,  W.,  260. 

Knucklas,  315. 

KyfFyn,  Dean,  53. 

Kyffyns,  family  of,  360.  See 
Cyffin. 

Kymin,  437. 

Kymmer  Abbey,  63. 

Kynaston’s  Cave,  399. 

Kyrle,  J.,  538. 

- ,  Sir  J.,  642. 

L. 

Labrus  tinea,  or  gwiniad,  39. 
Lacerta  aquatica,  110. 

Lacy,  H.  Earl  of  Lincoln,  236. 

- ,  Walter  de,  390. 

Llain-y-Sebedau,  265. 

Laleston,  519. 

Lampeter,  249.  316. 

Lamphey,  496. 

Landshipping  Quay,  188.  289. 
Langland,  228. 

Lathrma  squamaria,  243. 

La  Roche,  289. 

Lavatera  arborea,  5'!  8. 

Lawes,  D.,  355. 

Lee,  Herbert,  129. 

Leeches,  prey  of,  357. 


Leeds,  Duke  of,  322. 

Leeswood  Hall,  371. 

Leeswoods,  638. 

Legh,  W.,  636. 

Le  Hunt,  585. 

- ,  family  of,  282. 

- ,  Mr.,  287. 

- ,  Sir  John,  231. 

Leigh,  C.  H.,  16.  170.  457.  511. 
Leighton,  630. 

— — ,  family  of,  398. 

- Hall,  450. 

■ - ,  Rev.  F.,  631. 

Leland,  quoted,  312. 

Lemna  gibba,  536. 

Lenthall,  J.  Cyffin,  383. 
Lepidium  latifolium,  536. 
Lepraria  iolithus,  305. 

Leschi,  577. 

L’Esterling,  585. 

L’Estrange,  family  of,  399. 
Lettardston,  286. 

Lewis,  Col.,  8. 

- ,  Geo.,  234. 

- ,  family  of,  164. 

- ,  J.,  antiquary,  261. 

- ,  J.  H.  H.,  72. 

- ,  Rev.  J.,  442. 

- ,  Right  Hon.  F.  F.,  517. 

- ,  Sir  J.,  183. 

- ,  Sir  Watkin,  284. 

Leybourn,  William  de,  229. 
Ley’s  House,  546. 

Lichen  carulescens,  59. 

- fuscus,  59. 

- islandicus,  560. 

- lanatus,  .59. 

- omphaloides,  560. 

- paschalis,  254. 

- probesceius,  229, 

Lidbrook,  .544. 

Lidiart-y-Barwn,  244. 

Lidstep,  497. 

Lighthouse,  St.  Ann’s,  583. 

- ,  Skerries,  39.  Roman,  307- 

Ligustrum  vulgare,  259.^216. 351. 
Lime  Grove,  56.  217. 

Lime  and  sandstone,  alternation 
of,  397. 

- ,  carbonates  of,  172.  268.  494. 

- rocks,  115.  516. 

Limestone,  sulphureous,  521. 
Linn ey- Head,  493. 

Lisburne,  Dorothy  Dowager 
Lady,  9. 

- ,  Earl  of,  27.  32.  619. 

- ,  cemetery  of,  33. 

Little-Hall,  31.5. 

Lithospermum  purpuro-emru- 
leum,  242. 

Llan,  the  prefix,  designates 
churches  of  British  origin. 


346.  360.  417. 

Llan-Aeron,  8. 

Llanafan,  28.  32. 

Llanafer  House,  625. 

Llan- Anno,  323.  462. 
Llanarch, 185. 

Llan-Armon,  557.  368.  370. 
Llan-arth,  19,  20. 

IJan-arth  Court,  442.  528. 
Llan-Asaf,  310. 
Llan-Badarn-fawr,  7-  322. 
Llan-Badarn-fynydd,  486. 
Llan.  Badarn-Odwyn,  9,  10. 
Llan-Badarn-tref-eglwys,  6. 
Llanbadog,  136. 
Llan-Badrig,  39. 

Llan-Bedr,  Mer.,  249. 
Llan-Bedr-cennyn,  383. 
Llan-Beris,  177.  323. 
Llan-Beulan,  355. 
Llanbister,  323.  530. 
Llan-Bleiddian,  226.  228. 
Llancarfan,  227. 

Llancarno,  486. 

Llancaut,  447. 
Llan-craf-nant,  383. 
Llan-Cynfelyn,  32. 

u  u  2 


Llandaff,  331. 
Llan-Ddewi-Ystradenny,  486. 
Llan-Ddewi-brefi,  323.  .568.  620, 
Llan-Ddewi-’r-cwm,  103. 
Llan-Deiniol,  7. 

Llan-dinam,  486. 

Llan-ddowror,  400. 
Llan-Dderfel,  372. 
Llan-ddulas,  352. 

Llan-Degai,  333. 

Llan-Degle,  369.  522.  5,57.  640. 
Llandeilo-Cresseney,  19. 
Llandeilo-Grabau,  297. 
Llandeilo-fawr,  339. 
Llan-denny,  525. 

Llan-Dew  or  Dduw,  99. 
Llan-Ddewi-aber-Arth,  630. 
Llan-Ddewi-brefi,  320. 
Llangynllo,  466. 

Llan-Ddingad,  345. 
Llan-Ddoged,  383. 

Llan-dogo, 443. 

Llandovery,  344, 
Llan-Dyssilio,  59. 

Llan-Egwest,  364. 

Lian-Egwest  Abbey,  369. 
Llan-Egryn,  66. 

Llan-Elly,  20.  354. 

Llan-Elen,  512. 

Llan-Elian,  353. 

Llanerch  Park,  312. 
Llanerchymor,  309. 
Llanerchymedd,  355. 
Llan-Drindod,  348,  349. 
Llan-Drindod  Hall,  350. 
Llan-Drinio,  398.631, 
Llan-Drillo,  23.  352. 
Llan-Drillo-yn-Rh6s,  353. 
Llan-Dudno,  218.  334.  3.50. 
Llandyfaelog,  102. 

Llan-dybie,  501. 

Llan-Tyfridog,  356.,  or  Ty- 
friog,  466. 

Llandyfalle,  103. 

Llanfrothen,  84. 

Llan-Dygwy,  183. 

Llan-Dwrnog  or  dyrnog,  .5.56. 
Llan-Dysilio-gogo,  30.  59.  184. 

399.  464,  465. 

Llan-Dyssul,  466. 

Llan-ddft, 315. 

Llan-Elian,  353. 

Llan-Elly,  354. 

Llan-faelog,  349. 

Llanfaes,  41. 

- ,  Ang.,  2. 

- Priory,  334. 

Llanfair,  249. 

- Waterdine,  315. 

Llanfair-caer-Einion,  356. 
Llanfair-fechan,  3.  122.  358. 
Llanfair-iscoed,  358. 

Llan  feirian,  303. 

Llan-ferras,  370. 
Llan-pwl-gwyn-gwyll,  463. 
Llanfair-Talhaiarn,  239. 
Llanfihangel-crug-corneu,  13. 
LlANFIHANGEL  -  RHYD  -  ITHON, 

394. 

Llanfihangel-geneu-’r-glyn,  31. 
Llanfihangel-tre-  ’r-bardd,  356. 
Llanfihangel-ystrad,  9. 
Llanfihangel-y-Pennant,  85. 
Llanfilian,  320. 

Llan-Fillo,  103. 

Llanfoist  House.  12.  20. 
Llan-Frynach,  611. 

Llan-fawr,  405. 

Llan-fechan,  465. 

Llanfyllin,  360. 

Hangar,  52. 

Llan-Gadwalladr,  303. 
Llangammarch,  122. 

Llanganten,  121. 

Llan-Gcdwyn  Hall,  360. 
Llan-geinor,  4.58. 

Llan-genne  fynnon  Geneu,  232.- 
Llan-Gennych,  .501. 

Llan-gerniw,  239, 


660 


INDEX 


Llan-Gattock  or  Gadog,  341. 
371. 

Llan-Gadog-Cresseny,  342. 
Llan-Gynog,  103.371. 
Llan-gefni,  303. 

Llan  llawer,  478. 

Llangoed,  439. 

- Castle,  124.  298.  041. 

Ivlangoed-mawr,  183.  465.^ 
LiLAn-Gollen,  and  Vale  of,  222. 
361. 

Llangorse  Pool,  17.  107. 
Llan-Gorwen,  24. 

Llangroneg,  8. 

Llan-grwyne,  20. 

Llangua,  view  from,  18. 
Llan-Gurig,  387. 

Llan-gwm,  289. 

Llan-Gwyfen,  303.  464.  556. 
Ldan-Gwynodl,  88.  461. 
Llan-Ga'nog,  371. 

JLlan-  Gybi,  90.  319. 

Lilan  Castle,  136.  625. 
Llanhaiarn,  373. 

Llanhuadain,  453. 

Llanhyfer,  208. 

Llan-Idloes,  384. 

Llan-Iestyn,  75.  461, 
Llan-Illtyi),  249,  250.  373. 
Lilan-IUyd-fawr,  586. 
Llanio-isaf,  318. 
Llan-Llwchaiarn,  184.  465.  487. 
Ldan-Llechid,  334. 

Llan-Llwyd,  315. 

Llan-Llyr,  9.  321. 323. 
jLlan-Madog,  600. 

Lilan-Nidan,  161.  463. 
Llannerch,  242.  522.  565. 
Llan-Non,  6.  30.  142.  501. 
Llanover  House,  529. 
Llan-Padrig,  89. 
LiLan-Rhaiadyr,  376. 

Lean  -  Rhyiadyr-  yn-Moch- 
NANT,  377. 

Llan-rhydd,  556. 
Llan-Rhuddlad,  40. 
Llan-Rhystud,  6.  30.  321.  556. 
Llan-Rheithion,  265. 
Llanrwst,  379. 

Llan  St.  Si6r,  567. 

Llan-Samled,  457. 

Llan-Sannan,  241.  383. 
Llan-san-Ffraid  House,  528. 
Llan-san-Fraid,  Card.,  6.  30. 
Llan-Sawyl,  342. 

Llan-spyddyd,  346. 

Lean- Stephan,  140.  389. 
Llan-Stinian,  286. 

Llantarnam,  135. 

Llan-Tegwyn,  410. 

Leanthony  Abbey,  390. 
Lean-tri-saint,  391. 
Llantryddid  Park,  226. 

Llantwit  major,  228. 
Llan-Vauglian, 

Llanvihangel,  556. 
Llanvihangel-y-Creuddin,  33. 
Leanvihangee  -  Rhyd  -  Ithon, 
394.  518. 

Llannwas,  579. 
Llan-uwchaiaron,  8. 
Llan-uwch-llwydog,  476.  478, 
Llan-uwch-llyn,  50.  375. 
Llan-wdden  levan,4G4. 
Llan-wenarth  Hill,  16. 
Llan-wenog,  407. 

Llan-wern,  169-. 

- House,  202.’ 

Llan-wnnen,  317. 

Llanwnws,  28. 

Llan-wrth-rhydd,  122. 
Llan-wrtyd,  619. 

I.lan-wydalus,  8.' 
Llan-y-blodwel,  378. 
Llan-y-chaiarn  Castle,  30.  341. 
Llan-y-cil,  46.  49. 

Llan-y-faeii,  339. 
Llan-y-fFowddwy,  413. 
Llan-y-fydd,  384. 


Llan-y-granwydden,  357. 
Llan-y-lladron,  615. 
Llan-y-wern,  103. 
Llan-ym-Dyfrig  Castle,  341. 
Lean-y.Mynach,  396. 
Llan-yn-genedle,  2"1. 
Llan-Ystyndvvy,  229. 
Leaugharne,  400.  584. 

Llavan  Sands,  1.  5.  71. 

Lie’  Careg,  313. 
Llech-gwen-farwyd,  271. 
Llechid,  daughter  of  Ithel  Hael, 
334. 

Llecli-Idris,  250,  253. 
Llech-Meylir,  265. 
Llech-Trufin,  265. 

Llech-vaen,  580. 
Llech-wey-isaf,  4. 
Llech-wedd-garth,  372. 
Llech-y-blaiz,  210. 
Llech-y-dribedd,  479. 
Llech-gowres,  209. 

Lleier,  85. 

Lleiniog  Castle,  70. 
Lletty-synod,  3^ 

Lleusi  Llwyd,  616.7 
Llewelinus  ap  Hoel,  99. 
Llewellyn,  T.  J.,  119. 

- ,  J.  D.,  99. 

Llewenny  Hall,  239 — 241. 

Lloyd,  409. 

- ,  Bell,  51.  362.  373. 

- ,  David,  465, 

- ,  Edward,  31. 

- ,  H.,  344. 

- ,  Hon.  T.  Pryse,  229. 

- ,  J.,  32.  121.  364. 

- ,  Milltield,  573. 

- ,  Mrs.,  241.  489. 

- ,  Mabus,  583. 

- •,  Rhys,  descendant  of,  122. 

- ,  Sir  E.  P.,  564. 

- ,  Sir  Herbert,  317. 

- ,  T.,  84.  466,  477.  483.  611. 

- Van  Evan,  49. 

Lloyde,  Hugh,  6. 
Lluest,_Cadwgan,  220. 

Lluryd  works,  7. 

Lewchwr,  18.  355,  402.  457. 
Llwchaiarn,  487. 

Llwybyr-Elise,  375. 
Llwybyr-Madyn,  254. 
Llwybyr-Helen,  250. 

Llwyd,  Capt.  Efan,  558. 

- ,  Jones,  344. 

- ,  Sir  G.,  62. 

- ,  Lleusi,  488. 

- ,  Miss  Angharad,  172. 

- ,  Woodward,  607. 

Llwydiarth,  360. 

- ,  family  of,  174. 

Llwyd-Siac,  seat  of,  9. 

Llwyds,  486. 

- ,  origin  of,  241. 

- of  Cwm-bychan,  279. 

Llwyn,  418. 

Llwyn-dyris,  183. 

Llwyn-gwern,  406. 

Llwyn-gwair,  209. 
Llwyw-Llanfyllin,  360. 
Llwyw-rhinault,  323. 
Llwyw-y-pia,  422. 
Llwyw-y..groes,  629. 
Llyn-aeddwen,  10. 

Llyn-aled,  242. 

Llyn-alwen,  242.  1 
Llynas  Point,  354. 

Llyn-moelfre,  242. 

Llyn-bodlyn,  279. 
Llyn-bochlwyd,  337. 
Llyn.bugeilyn,*386. 
Llyn-cadaw-yr-aiir-frychin,  84,! 
Llyn-cadifer,  173. 

Ely n- Conwy,  193.  256. 
Llyn-conglog,  256. 
Llyn-Cwellyn,  82.  153. 
Llyn-cwm-Howel,  66. 
Llyn-cwm-dylyn,  500. 
Llyn-cwm-llwch,  110. 


Llyn-ddu-bach,  193.  256.  "J 
Llyn.ddh-yr-Arddwy,  329. 
Llyn-fawr,  422. 

Llyn-frydan,  fach  and  fawr,  29. 
Llyn-geirionydd,  382. 

Llyn-glas,  31. 

Llyn-Govan,  30. 

Llyn-gron,  29. 

Llyn-gwyn,  531. 

Llyn-gynon,  29. 

Llyn-hilon  pool,  298. 

Llyn-hir,  29.  357. 
I.lyniau-cregenan,  253. 
Llyniau-Mymbyr,  382.  561. 
Llyniau-Nantlle,  83. 

Llyn-Idwal,  179. 

Llyn-Irddin,  279. 
Llyn-Llwydaw,  329. 
Llyn-Llymbrin,  375. 
Llyn-Mingil,  250. 

Llyn-Ogwen,  179.  337. 
Llyn-Peris,  326. 

Llyn-Safaddan,  107.  234. 
Llyn-Rathlyn,  251. 
Llyn-tal-y-llyn,  383. 

Llyn-tegid,  362.  374. 
Llyn-tegwedd-uchaf,  and  LI.  t. 
vawr,  410. 

Llyn-tegwn  iichaf,  66. 
Llyn-Teifi,  2.9. 
Llyn-tri-graeanen,  251.  406. 
Llyn-y-bugail,  357. 

Llyn-y-cae,  252. 

Llyn-y-c6ch,  329. 

Llyn-y-cwm,  560.  327. 
Llyn-y-cwm-bychan,  279. 
Llyn-y-cwm  glas,  328. 
Llyn-y.granwydden,  357- 
Llyn-y-morwynion,  194.  257- 
Llyn-y-Nadroedd,  329. 
Llyn-yn-Mochnant,  377. 
Llyn-y-pandy,  431. 
Llyn-y-pisgoed,  257. 
Llyn-yr-Afrange,  485.  498. 
Llyn-yr-Avanc,  256 
Llyn-yr-Alarch,  265. 
Llyn-yr-ogof,  238. 

Llyn-y-van,  113. 

Llys-Bradwyn,  253.  287. 
Llys-ddfilas,  38. 

Llys-Edwyn,  269.  488. 

Lly'sfan,  353. 

Llys-tyn,  477. 

Llyvyry  Ficker,  345. 

Llywarch  ap  Bran,  40. 

- hen,  52.  373.  404.  557.  '  ' 

Llywel,  114. 

Llywellyn  ap  GrvfTyd,  2,  352. 
360.  380.  397.  531.  566.  640. 

- ap  Jorwerth,  24.  55.  73.  211. 

302.  380.  418. 

-  ap  Sitsyllt,  535. 

- Goch,  616. 

Lly  welyn,  J.  D.,  460. 

Lobelia  centrifugus,  254. 

- crassus,  560. 

- dortmanna,  177.  251.  325. 

- fragilis,  254. 

- tartareus,  560. 

Localities,  fine,  276. 

Locusta  erratica,  264. 

Lodge  Park,  34. 

Logan,  Mr.,  593. 

Londres,  William  de,  588,  589. 
Longevity,  175.  233.  587. 
Long-hope,  447. 

Long  House,  cromlech  near, 264. 
Long  Mynd,  315. 

Longtown,  13. 

Loton,  398. 

Lordships  Marcher.s,  156. 

L’ Orient,  mast  of,  424. 

Lort,  496. 

Lorymor,  J.  P.,  442. 

Lowth,  Bishop,  569. 

Lupus,  St.,  369. 

- ,  Hugh,  53.  70.  74. 

Lusus  naturcC,  648. 

Luxmore,  Bp.,  563. 


INDEX 


66’ 1 


Lysimachia  thyrsifloraj  216. 
Lysimachia  vulgaris,  151. 
Lythrum  hyssopifolia,  314. 
—  Lycium, 

- salicaria,  314. 

Lyttleton,  Lord,  408.  550. 


M. 


Mabinogion,  the,  21. 

Mabon,  548. 

Mabus,  321. 

Machen,  vale  of,  472,  473. 

Mach  no,  beauties  of  the,  256. 
Machwy,  dingle  of,  297. 
Machynlleth,  403. 
Mackworth,  Sir  H.,  457.  505. 
Macnamara,  A.,  124. 

- - ,  J.,  296. 

- ,  Mrs.,  296. 

Mactra  lutraria,  400. 

Maddocks,  J.,  635. 

- ,  Mr.,  91.  247. 

- - ,  W.  A.,  621. 

Madog,  80.  102.  111.  145. 

- ap  Gryffydd,  365. 

- -  ap  Llewelyn,  635. 

- ap  Meredydd,  418. 

Maelgwn  Gwynedd,  214.  277. 
488. 

- ab  Rhys,  24.  299.  605. 

Maelor-Gymraeg,  552. 
Maelor-Saesoneg,  552. 

Maen,  Denb.,  380. 
Maen-Achwynfn,  309. 

Maenan,  379.  383. 

Maen,  Arthur  Wood,  32.  275. 
Maen-clochog,  277. 

Maenest,  or  Mannest,  235. 
IVIaen-hlr,  use  of,  100.  263. 
Maen-Huail,  555. 

Maen-llltyd,  106.  235. 

Maen-llia,  110. 

Maen-llythyrog,  415.  457. 
Maen-Madog,  111- 
Maen-sigyl,  286.  351. 
Maen-y-Gwyr,  210. 
Maen-y-morwynion,  100.  346. 

See  Llech. 

Maen-y.prenfol,  322. 
Maentwrog,  407. 

Maesbury,  397. 

Maes  Caradog,  335.  337. 

- near  Lampeter,  347. 

Maeslough  Castle,  124.  296.  439. 
Maes-’llyn,  617. 

Maes-mynan,  566. 

Maes-raawr,  234.  388.  486.  501. 
Maes-mynis,  103. 

Maes-mynnan,  433. 
Maes-Newydd,  32. 
Maes-Rhos-Rhyfel,  62. 

Maesteg  works,  595. 
Maes-y-gaer,  472. 
Maes-y-Garmon,  431. 
Maes-y-Mynach,;9. 
Maes-y-Nenedd,  66. 

Magic,  semblance  of,  191. 
Maglona,  403. 

Mainwaring,  T.,  639. 

Majendie,  Ur.,  54. 

Malandina  Abbey,  307. 
Malachite,  351. 

Malenfant,  family  of,  290. 
Malldraeth,  303. 

Malloch  Bridge,  584. 

Malpas  Church,  474. 

Mallwyd,  411. 

Mam-Gymrei,  241. 

Manarawan,  261.  266. 
Manganese,  89. 

Manorabon,  340. 

Manorbeer,  608. 

Mansell,  family  of,  519. 

- - ,  Sir  E.,  496. 

- ,  Sir  Rice,  414. 

Mantles,  ancient,  4S3. 


Manuscripts,  at  Llannerch,  242. 

- ,  Seabright,  551. 

- ,  Welsh,  38.  72.  76.  309.  360. 

584. 

Mapeeus,  Walter,  435. 

Maple,  peculiarity  of,  306. 
Mara-mota,  99. 

Marble,  39.  46.  579. 
March-lyn-mawr,  338. 
Marchudd,  73. 

Marchweithian,  241. 

Marchwiel,  639. 

Marclay  Hill,  41. 

Marcross,  588. 

Margam,  413. 

- Abbey,  414. 

- Hill,  il9. 

- Park,  415.  519. 

Margaret,mother  of  PlenryVIL, 
304. 

- of  Anjou,  277. 

- Uch  Evan,  326. 

Maridunum  of  Ptolemy,  138. 
Marion,  311. 

Marl,  353. 

Marl,  46. 

Marloes-mere,  583, 

- ,  Sir  W.  de,  583. 

Marriott,  Major,  540.547. 
Mari'ow,  Col.,  292. 

Marshall,  Gilbert,  605. 

- ,  Bp.  John,  332. 

- ,  W.,  Earl  of  Pembroke, 

540. 

Martel,  seat  of,  285. 

Marten,  Henry,  195. 

Marthry,  264. 

- fair  of,  266. 

Martin,  Bp.  David,  207.  515. 
573. 

- -  de  Turribus,  182. 

- ,  Sir  W.,  478. 

- ,  St,, 400. 

- ,  Lord  of  Kernes,  477. 

Maskelyne,  Dr.,  425. 

Massacre,  cruel,  31. 

Mather,  Trevor,  365. 

Mathern  Church,  481. 
Matkorn-ych-Ddewi,  321. 
Mathraval,  418. 

Matthews,  Christopher,  332. 

- ,  Hester,  405. 

Matthias,  Sir  H.,  288. 

Maud  de  St.  "Valeri,  295. 

- ,  Queen,  428. 

Maurice,  Dr.  H.,  62. 

Mawddach,  fall  of,  375. 
Mawrgan,  413. 

Mayberry,  Rev.  C.,  505. 
Mediolanum,  417. 

Medusa  cruciata,  6  ,<7. 

- -  purpurea,  607. 

Meek,  Mr.,  546. 

Meini-Gwyr,  401. 

Meini  hirion,  3.  17.  40.  100.  164 
261.  263.  271.  278,  279.  467. 
562.  See  Maen. 

Meirchion,  587. 

Meirion  Court,  493. 

Meivod,  417. 

Melampyrum  sylvaticum,  65. 
119. 

Melica  nutans,  242. 

- caerulea,'174. 

Melin-cwm-Rheiddol,  28. 
Melin-cwrt,  458.  460.  ^ 
Melin-dwr,  32. 

Melin-felindre,  336. 
Melin-Gryffydd,  225. 

Melin  Lodge,  32. 

Meller,  J.,.551. 

Mellington  Hall,  451. 

Mellte,  502. 

Menai,  scenery  of,  153. 

- Bridge,  58.  153. 

Menapia,  478.  567.  577. 

Menevia,  567.  577. 

Mentha  acutifolia,  567. 

- viridis,  204. 


Merddin  or  Merlin,  561. 
Meredydd  ap  Cynan,  357.  374. 

- -  ap  Meirchion,  238. 

- ab  Owain,  520. 

- -  Rhys,  389. 

Merlins,  Welsh,  360. 

Merlin’s  Bridge,  290. 
Merlin-Emrys,  80. 

Merrick,  Mr.,  539. 
Merthyr-mawr,  519. 

Merthyr  Tydvil,  419. 

Mervyn,  41. 

Mesur-y-Dorth,  205. 

Metheglin,  73. 

Meum  Athamanta,  246. 

Meurig  ab  Llewellyn,  543. 
Meverley,  398. 

Meyrick,  Cath.  Barrett,  215.  218. 
504.  577.  584.  644. 

- ,  Dr.  E.,  47. 

Miarth,  233. 

Mica,  bed  of,  472. 

- schist,  46. 

Michael  Church,  Escley,  13. 

- Pritchard,  500. 

Michaelston-fedw,  472. 

Micnant,  257. 

Midcounty,  454. 

Middleton  Hall,  141.  341.  344. 
Miles,  Earl  of  Hereford,  443. 
Milford,  424. 

- ,  Lady,  454. 

- ,  Lord,  188.  287.  497. 

Millar,  J.,  17. 

Millfield,  316. 

Millingchamp,  Rev.  B.,  183. 
Millsfield,  620. 

Millstone,  an  ancient,  31b. 
Milltir  Geirig,  373. 

Milo  de  Bohun,  645. 

Minfordd,  373.  406.  603, 

Mitton,  399. 

Moccas  Court,  296.  641. 

Moel,  Arthur,  432. 
Moel-ben-ddu,  412. 
Moel-ben-twrch,  86.  357. 
Moel-cwm  Safnllwyd,  373. 
Moel-ddh-mawr,  372. 
Moel-eglwys,  369. 

Moel-Eryr,  287.  478. 
Moel-famma,  429. 

Moel-Faban,  334. 

Moel-Fenlli,  370. 

Moel-Gwdion,  469. 

Moel-lvor,  6.  30. 
Moel-Hiraddug,  311. 
Moel-hebog,  409. 

Moel-Siabod,  176.  383.  498. 

561. 

Moel-Trigarn,  206. 

Moel-wyn,  257.  410. 
Moel-wyn-Gwyn,  256. 
Moel-wyn-yr-  Hydd,  256. 
Moel-y-ci,  335. 
Moel-y-cyng-hirion,  329. 
Moel-y-don,  42.  463. 
Moel-y-gaer,  240. 

Moel-y-golfa,  398,  399. 

Moel  .y-parc,  566. 
Moel-yr-thrwm,  248. 

Moel-ynys,  34. 

Moggridge,  J.  H.,  514. 

Mold,  428. 

Morning,  296. 

Monacella,  St.,  372. 

Monastery,  specimen  of,  392. 
589. 

Monaughty,  518. 

Monkton,  *492. 

Monkwood,  Great,  512. 
Monmouth,  434. 

- Cap,  12. 

- ,  John,  Bp.  of,  332. 

- ,  John  de,  434. 

Monod-mawr  and  back,  257. 
Montacute,  W.  E.,  236. 
Montague,  Sir  W.,  197. 
Montault,  family  of,  291. 
Montford  Bridge,  399. 


INDEX 


662 


Montgomery,  448. 

- - ,  Arnulph  de,  428. 

- Canal,  451. 

- ,  Roger  de,  448. 

Monuments,  druidic,  225.  263. 
Monuchdenny,  93. 

Moore,  493. 

- ,  John,  606. 

- - ,  Mrs,  Ann,  395. 

- ,  Richard,  395. 

Morda,  396. 

Mordeford,  641. 

Morfa,  7. 

- Rhyddlan,  535. 

Morfa-mawr,  30. 

Morgan,  alias  Pelagius,  568. 

- ,  Bp.,  53.  563. 

- ,  Capt.,  310. 

- ,  Col.,  526. 

- ,  family  of,  472.  612. 

- - ,  John,  462. 

- ,  Lancelot,  97. 

- ,  Maurice,  612. 

- - ,  Meredith,  97. 

- ,  Mrs.,  457. 

- - ,  Sir  Charles,  21.  128.  468. 

472.  475. 

— — ,  William,  D.D.,  378. 

- - ,  W.,  612. 

Morley,  Sir  John,  526. 

Morris,  Col.,  198. 

- ,  Lewis,  322. 

- ,  Sir  J.,  599. 

- Valentine,  200.  623. 

Mortimer,  Roger,  448. 
Mortimer’s  Cross,  517. 

Morton,  Bp.  of  Ely,  97. 

Morville,  478. 

Mostyn,  C.  T.,  432. 

— ,  E.  M.  L.,  65.  278. 

- ,  Hon.  M.  L.,  212.  351. 

- ,  Lord,  361. 

- ,  R.,  433. 

- ,  Sir  Piers,  310. 

- ,  Sir  Roger,  309. 

- ,  Sir  T.,  428.  557. 

Mostyns,  monuments  to,  304. 

- ,  portraits  of,  309. 

Motto,  a  striking,  307. 

Mount  Denny,  423. 

Mount  Pleasant,  87. 

- ,  Swansea,  593. 

Mountrath,  J.,  Lord,  592. 

Mount  Severn,  385. 

Mumbles  Head,  596,  599. 
Murchison,  R.  I.,  iii.,  521. 
Murenger,  office  of,  470. 

Mya  pratensis,  607. 

Mya  margaratifera,  212. 
Myddleton,  Mrs.  M.,633. 

- ,  Rev.  T.,  634. 

- ,  Sir  Hugh,  27.  566. 

- ,  Sir  T.,  202.  448. 

Myllin,  St.  360. 

Myfyr,  a,  353. 

Mynach,  falls  of,  the,  507. 
Mynach-log-fawr,  28. 

Mynach  ty,  30. 

Mynarch,  17. 

Mynwent-Twmas,  316. 

Mynydd- Aberavon,  228. 
Mynydd-bychan,  238. 
Mynydd-cary-goch,  403. 
Mynydd-ddu,  345,  346. 
Mynydd-Dormini,  415. 
Mynydd-Llwyd,  359. 
Mynydd-moel,  253,  254. 
Mynydd-penbre,  355. 
Mynydd-pen-y-fal,  14. 
Mynydd-vawr,  313. 
Mynydd-fychan,  313. 
Mynydd-y-gareg,  10.  307. 
Mynydd-y-drum,  357. 

Myrica  gale,  410.  560.  622. 
Myrtle,  Dutch,  602. 

Mytton,  J.,  of  Halston,  411. 

- ,  Major-Gen.,  236.  277.  292. 

552. 


N. 

Nails,  recommended  by  M.  Pic¬ 
tet,  160. 

Nannau  Hall,  248.  374. 
Nannerch,  431. 

Nant-clwyd,  557. 
Nant-cribba'Hall,  450.  630. 
Nant-eos,  7.  28.  533. 

Nant-eirio,  32. 

Nant-garw,  225.  394. 
Nant-gnwlle,  9. 

Nant-gwynant,  79.  337.  561. 
Nant-Helygog,  374. 

Nant-llyn,  242. 

Nant  Mill,  83. 

Nantperis,  152. 

Nant-y-bach,  364. 

Nant-y-belan,  550. 

Nant-y-brace,  385. 

Nant-y-castell,  611. 

Nant-y~fridd,  637. 

Nant-y-glo,  20. 
Nant-y-Gwrtheryrn,  86. 
Nant-y-lleian,  32. 
Nant-y-mynach,  324. 
Nant-y-Noch,  258.  269. 
Narberth,  452. 

Narthecium  ossifragum,  251, 252. 
Nash,  mansion  of.  289,  516. 

- Scar,  516. 

Neale,  Sir  W.,  292. 

Neath,  455. 

- -  Abbey,  456. 

Nedd,  river,  502. 

Needham,  Chancellor,  573. 
Neeston,  584. 

Nefydd  Hardd,  176.  257.  380. 
Nefyn,  87. 

Nelson,  Lord,  424. 

Nembhard,  Mrs.,  383. 

Neottia  spiralis,  151. 

Nercwys  Hall,  430. 

Neries,  specimens  of  living,  607. 
Ness  Cliff,  399. 

Neuadd-wen,  357. 

Nevern,  208.  478. 

Nevill,  R.  I.,  355. 

Nevilles,  monuments  of  the,  11,. 
Nevyn,  461. 

Newborough,  462. 

- ,  Lord,  383. 

Newbridge,  398.  514. 

Newcastle  Emlyn,  464. 
Newcastle,  440. 

- ,  Duke  of,  24.  27. 

- ,  Little,  285. 

New  House,  189. 

New  Inn,  290.  401. 

Newmarch,  Bernard,  93.  100. 
Newmarket,  310. 

New  Moat,  287. 

New  Passage  House,  201. 
Newport,  Mon.,  468. 

Newport,  Pemb.,  266.  475. 

New  Quay,  399.  465. 

Newton  Down,  116. 

Newton  Park,  118.  141. 
Newtown,  483. 

- Hall,  483. 

Neyland,  187. 

Nicholas,  Griffith,  452. 

Nichols,  .T.,  458. 

Nicholson,  Bp.,  339. 

- ,  G.,  560. 

Nidum  of  Antoninus,  455. 
Nobility,  the  first  martyrs  of  the 
Englisli,  13. 

Nolton,  582. 

Norman  style,  instances  of,  136. 
331.  414. 

Norris,  artist,  605. 

Norton,  315. 

Novaculite  of  Kirwan,  559. 
Noyadd,  30. 

Nymphsea  lutea,  259. 

- alba,  27.  326.  407,  408.  410. 

603. 


O. 

Oak,  inclosed  in  yew,  625. 

- ,  druidical,  498. 

Oakley,  Mrs. ,  409. 

- ,  W.,  601. 

_ ,  W.  G.,  409.  601. 

Oasis,  an,  112. 

Octopitarum,  577. 

Ode,  Welsh,  551. 

CEnanthe  crocata,  242. 

- - pimpinelloides,  2. 

Offa,  535. 

Offa’s  Dike,  368.  486.  551.  625. 

See  Clawdd  Offa,  431.  533. 

Ogee  sweep,  inverted,  570.  .. 
Ogmore  Castle,  117. 

- ,  Salmon  of,  116. 

Ogov,  caverns  so  called,  22.  397.^ 

- Geifyr,  577. 

- Owain,  254. 

Ogwen  Bank,  178.  336. 

Ogwen,  character  of,  335. 

Old  Abbey,  444. 

Old  Beau  Pres,  226. 

Oldcastle,  13. 

- ,  Sir  John,  13.  306.  374. 

Old  Court,  19.  442. 

Old  Passage  Ferry,  480. 

Olwen  Hill,  317. 

Onslow,  399. 

Ophioglossum  vidgatum,  44. 
Orangery,  an  extensive,  415.  519. 
Ordovices,  slaughter  of,  41.  311. 
Organ,  a  natural,  578. 

Oriel,  496. 

Orielton,  478.  492. 

Origanum  vulgare,  216. 
Orlandson,  583. 

Ormeshead,  Great,  5,  214.  350. 

- ,  Little,  218. 

Orobanche  major,  151. 

- minor,  216. 

Orobus  sylvaticus,  119.  216,247. 
380. 

Osmund’s  Air,  3.  71. 

Osmunda  regalis,  410.  622. 
Ottley,  Bp.,  574. 

Oudoceus,  St.,  331. 

Ouzel,  black,  329. 

Owain  ap  Caradog,  139.  469. 

- ap  Gryfydd,  629. 

- ap  Madog,  398. 

- Cyfeiliog,  551. 

_ Glyndwr,  146.  219.  222.  277. 

296.  332. 404.  518.  521.  553.  623. 

- ,  Goch,  326. 

- Gwynedd,  139.  229.  293.  316. 

379.  433. 

- ,  Sir  James  ap,  477. 

Owen,  Col.,  286. 

- - ,  Goronw,  76. 

- ,  Rice  Jones,  374. 

- ,  R.  Godolphin,  280. 

- ,  Sir  Hugh,  260.  492. 

- - ,  Sir  John,  85.  146.  286.  289. 

- - ,  Sir  W.,  289. 

- ,  Tudor,  60.  62. 

- ,  Williiun,  450. 

Owens,  family  of,  40.  491. 
Oxford,  Earl  of,  219.  515. 
Oxwich,  597. 

- - -  Point,  599. 

Oy^stermouth,  596.  599. 

Oysters,  fishery  of,  288.  607. 


P. 

Pabell  Llywarch  Hen,  373. 
Pabbo-post-Prydain,  563. 
Padarn,  or  Paternus,  St.,  322. 
326.  568. 

Padarn,  St.,  7.  10. 

Pagan,  Sir  R.,  359. 

Paget,  Sir  C.,  425. 

Paine’s  Castle,  531. 


INDEX. 


663 


Paintings  by  Bassano,'  628.  —  [ 
Beaub^run,  648. — Beechey,i495. 

Briggs,  543 _ _  Canaletti,  628. 

Carlo  Dolce,  628.  —  Claude, 
628. — Coallo,  543.  —  Corregio, 
100. — Cuyp,  628. — Dance,  628. 
— De  Here,  633.  —  Dyer,  483. 
—  Fuseli,  126.  272. — Hamilton, 
648.  —  Holbein,  125,  648.  — 
Hoppner,  463. — Ibbetson,  125. 
Jansen,  648.  —  Kneller,  Sir 
G.,  549.  —  Lanscroine,  628.  — 
Morillo,  512.  —  Mytens,  309. 

— Paillou,  308 _ Poussin,  628. 

—  Reynolds,  495.  —  Romney, 
125. — Rubens, 543.628. — Valen¬ 
tine,  293.  —  Vandyke,  154.  308. 
430.  512.  649.  648.  —  Vleiger, 
628.  — West,  636.  —  Westall, 
543.— Wilson, ■■83.  85.  126.  430. 

- - ,  Flemish,  7.  33. 

— —  of  15th  century,  586. 

- in  Cardiff  Castle,  125.  293. 

- at  Nant-eos,  7. 

Palmer,  Roger,  628. 

Panelling,  elaborate,  543. 

Pant  Hovvel  Dhu,  uchaf,  228. 
Panton,  Jones,  354. 

- ,  Paul,  38. 

Pantons  of  Bagillt,  38. 

- ,  cemetery  of,  76. 

Pant-y-Kendy,  140. 
Pant-y-goytre  House,  528. 
Pant-yr-yscaphie,  463. 

Papaver  cambricum,  325.  329. 

- dubium,  599. 

Papposa,  607. 

Parc,  mansion  of,  121. 
Parc-y-Fan,  164. 

Park  newydd,  475. 

- - Lodge,  32. 

- - Wells,  Builth,  121. 

Parkgate,  565. 

Parr,  Thomas,  631. 

Parry,  Bishop,  370. 

- ,  H.,  84. 

- ,  J.  (Bardd  Alaw),  535. 

- - ,  Mrs.,  635. 

- ,  the  regicide,  489. 

Parrys,  former  abode  of,  8. 
Pary’s  Mountain  and  Mine,  35. 
Pascal,  Bp.,  332. 

Pass  of  Llanberis,  325. 

Paulinus,  562,  563. 

Pauncefote,  J.,  231. 

Paxton,  A.  F.,  341.  344. 

- - ,  Sir  W.,  604. 

Pearl-fishery,  212. 

Peat,  compression  of,  498. 
Pelagius,  568. 

Pembroke,  489. 
Pem-bryn-pellau,  31. 
Pempwnton,  315. 

Pen-allt,  Card.,  323.  404. 
Pen-allt,  Mon.,  443. 

Penally,  497. 

Pen-Anglas,  263. 

Pen-bedw,  431,432. 

Pen-bree  Hill,  314. 

Pen-bryn,  Card.,  322. 
Pen-caer.Gybi,  299. 
Pen-cae-mawr,  359. 

Pen-capel,  263. 

Pen-cerig-calch,  232. 
Pen-clawdd,  600. 

Pen-coed  Castle,  168. 

Pen-craig,  321.  547.  643. 
Pen-dar,  414. 

Pendinas,  24. 

Pendine,  608. 

Pen-y-dinas,  322. 

Penegos,  486. 

Penfordd,  Herbert,  358. 
Pen-glas,  30.  464. 

Pengwern,  364.  564. 
Pen-Gwerwyn,  190. 

Penhow  Castle,  168. 

Peniarth,  66. 

Pen-llwyn,  514. 


Pen-maciino,  256.  497. 

Penmaen,  599. 

Pen-maen-bach,  4. 
Pen-maen-mawr,  3,  4. 158.  21G. 
Pen-maen-rhos,  353.536. 
Penmon  Church,  77. 

- Park  and  Priory,  74. 

Penmorfa,  499. 

Penmynydd,  60. 

Pen-nant,  97. 

Pennant,  G.  H.  D.,  57.  217. 

- ,  David,  307,  308. 

- ,  Mrs.,  304. 

- ,  Thomas,  304.  308. 

- ,  Sir  Hugh,  277. 

Pennant-igi-isav,  244. 
Pennant-Melangel,  372. 
Pennants,  304. 

Pennardd  Castle,  596. 

Penoyre,  W.,  294. 

Penpont,  97. 113. 

- ,  Br.,97. 

Penporchell-isaf,  238. 

Pen-rhos  Bradwen,  271. 
Pen-rhos  Hall,  40.  271. 

Penrhyn,  Lord,  57.  334. 

- Castle,  57.  217. 

- quarries,  335. 

Penrice  Castle,  596. 

Penton-las,  32. 

Pentraeth,  354. 

Pentre,  17.  20. 

Pentre-brunant  Inn,  271. 532. 
Pentre-dolau-Honddu,  103. 
Pentre-Evan,  477.  497. 

Pentref,  534. 

Pentre,  Nant-francon,  337. 
Pentre-Halkin,  269. 

Pentre -yr-bont,  7. 

Pentyrch,  392. 

Penwern,  321. 

Penyard- chase  and  park,  544. 
Pen-y-bawn,  172. 
Pen.y-ben-glog,  478. 
Pen-y-bont,  321.  373.  486.  500. 
522.  532. : 

Pen-y-bont-pren,  32. 
Pen-y-coed,  353. 

Pen-y-crug,  101.  346. 
Pen-y-darren  Works,  21.  419. 
Pen-y-fan  Hill,  443. 

Pen-y-fron,  431. 

Pen-y-gadair,  253. 

Pen-y-gaer,  9.  86.  486. 
Pen-y-garn,  31. 

Pen-y-graig,  245. 
Pen-y-graig-ddu,  6. 

Penyholt  Stock,  493. 

Pen-y-  Herber,  629. 

Pen-y-lan,  344. 

Pen-y-parc,  22. 

Pen-yr-allt,  404. 

Pen-y-sarn,  31. 

Pen-ystrywiad  Church,  388. 
Pen-y-wen-allt,  183. 
Pen-y-wern,  33. 

Pen-y-goes,  254. 

Perks,  Rev.  E.,  547. 

Perrot,  Sir  Andrew,  452. 

- ,  Sir  John,  288.  605. 

- ,  Stephen,  452. 

- ,  Peter,  189. 

Perth  ir,  440. 

Petre,  Lord,  306. 

- ,  W.,  12.  17. 

Peterstonesuper  Elwy,  226.  426. 

-  Court,  17. 

Pharos,  an  ancient,  299.  307. 
Phascum  montanum,  329. 
Philipps,  Sir  R.  B.  P.,  188. 
Philips,  Catherine,  181. 

- ,  Charles,  584. 

- ,  Dr.  J.,  183. 

- ,  E.,288. 

- ,  J.  L.,  583,  584. 

- ,  J.,  579. 

- ,  Lady,  283. 

- ,  Nath.,  427.  452. 

- ,  R.  B.,288.  426, 


Philips,  Sir  Thos  ,  454. 

- ,  Thos.,  298. 

Pholas  Candida,  181. 

Pibgorn,  the  ancient,  44. 

Picton  Bridge,  476. 

Picton  Castle,  188.  426.  454. 

- ,  Lord,  609. 

- ,  Sir  Thomas,  138.  284.  478. 

609. 

Piercefield,  646. 

Pigeon’s  Ford,  184. 

Pigsty,  genuine  Welsh,  223. 
Pig-y.fran,  564. 

Pillars,  4.  193.  620.  See  Meini 
hirion. 

- umbilical,  426. 

Pilleth,  518. 

Pillgwenlly,  472. 

Pill  Priory,  585. 

Pilstone  House,  443. 

Pilularia  globulifera,  337. 

Pinus  Sylvestris,  181. 

Piozzi,  Mrs.,  240. 

Pipton  Chapel,  105. 

Piscina,  ancient,  26.5.  289. 

Piscosi  amnes,  398.  et  passim. 
Pistyll-Ddewi,  571. 
Pistyll-.Rhaiadyr,  378. 
Pistyll-y-Cain,  247,  248.  2C0.  375. 
Plague,  ravages  of,  583. 

Plantago  maritima,  27.  151.  216. 
638. 

- "coronopus,  27.  151.  216. 

Plant  Matt,  507. 

Plants,  assemblage  of  rare,  177. 
560. 

- near  Briton  Ferry,  119, 

- near  Caernarvon,  151. 

- of  Anglesea,  44. 

Plas-Captain,  310. 

Plas  Cilconnyn,  8. 

Plas-ddraw,  240. 
Plas-gallt-maenan,  565. 
Plas-goch,  463. 

Plas-grug,  33. 

Plas-godreant,  59. 

Plas-gwyn,  72.  354. 
Plas-gwynant,  561. 

Plas-gwynn,  161. 

Plas-hen,  229. 

Plas-isaf,  433. 

Plas-machen,  472. 

Plas-Madog,  367.  383. 
Plas-mawr,  212. 

Plas-newydd,  39.  154.  362.  463. 
Plas-newydd,  Deni.,  382.  557. 
Plas-Power,  636. 
Plas-Stourbridge,  433. 
Plas-tan-y-bwlch,  601. 

Plas-teg,  432.  637. 

Plas..uchaf,  256. 

Plas-Ward,  556. 
Plas-y-Bedwelty,  514. 
Plas-y-nant,  84.  558. 

Plinlimmon,  ascent  of,  385. 

- ,  view  from,  387. 

- ,  excursion  to,  508, 

Plumbstone  Mountain,  284.  581. 
Plunkett,  Hon.  R.  E.,  517. 
Plwyf-y-groes,  266. 

Plymouth  works,  419. 

- ,  Earl  of,  172. 

Poa  alpina,  330. 

- csesia,  329. 

- fluitans,  619. 

- maritima,  310. 

Pococke,  Dr.,  424. 

Poet,  a  subject  for  a,  346. 

Point  Castle,  580. 

Poll-tax  Inn,  288. 

Polygoniurn  bistorta,  430. 

- viviparum,  325. 

Poly  podium  arvonicum,  329. 

- filix  foemina,  151. 

- - -  lonchitis,  325. 

- ore-opteris,  151. 

- phegopteris,  176.  325. 

- -  vulgare,  216. 

Polytrichum  unigerum,  254. 


INDEX 


664 

Pons,  Richard  de,  345. 

Ponsonby,  Hon.  Miss,  363. 
Pont-afon-twymyn,  245. 
Pont-ar-Cothi,  344. 
Pont-ar-Ddulas,  344.  501. 
Pont-ar-Garfa,  247.  250.  375. 
Pont-ar.Gamlan,  247.  250. 
Pont-ar-Lleder,  256. 
Pont-careg-newydd,  242. 
Pont-cerwyn-Ddewi,  570. 
Pont-Dafen,  355. 

Pont-ddd,  249.  255. 
Pont-dol-garrog,  383. 
Pont-Dolanog,  174. 

Pont-  Eden,  250. 

Pont  Fallwyd,  411. 

Pont-faen,  478. 

Pont-gilan,  220. 

Pont-gwyn,  374. 
Pont-Hafod.Peris,  321. 
Pont-hir-gwm,  249. 
Pont-rhyd-y-gareg,  640. 
Pont-Llaino,  319.  321. 
Pont-nedd-Fychan,  or  Pont 
Neath-Vaughan,  111.  421.  458. 
501. 

Pont-newydd,  374.  513.  565. 
Pont-porth-Llwyd,  383. 
Pont-pren-plwya,  28. 
Pont-rhyd-fendigaid,  28.  617. 
Pont-rhyd-hir,  406. 
Pont-rhyd-y-Cnau,  505. 
Pontriffith,  241. 

Pont-uchel,  240.  556. 
Pont-y-Faldwyn,  477. 
Pont-y-Cambull,  566. 
Pont-y-Cennant,  373. 
Pont-y-crydd,  410. 
Pont-y-Cyssylltau,  204.  366. 
Pont-y-glyn,  191.  221. 

Pont-y. goitre,  442. 
PoNT-Y-MYNACH,  506.  533. 
Pont-y-moyle,  511. 

Pont-y-nen,  317. 

Pont-y-pandy,  166.  381. 
Pont-y-Pair,  257.  380.  498. 
PONT-Y'-POOL,  20.  510. 

~  16 

Pont-y-prydd,  224.  392. 
Pont-y-pren,  32. 

Pont-y- wal  Hall,  298. 

Pool,  Bp.  Owen,  574. 

- Park,  555. 

Pope,  Alex.,  648. 

Porkington,  410. 

Porphyry,  424. 

Porta  decumana,  128. 

Port-clew,  496. 

Port- Mad og,  621. 

Porto-bello,  394. 

Porth,  461.  616. 

Porthamel,  463. 

Porth-Dynllaen,  87.  91. 
Porth-Leschi,  578. 
Porth-Penrhyn,  55. 
Porth-skewydd,  482. 
Porth-yr-ogof,  111.  504. 
Porth-yn-llyn,  621. 

Porus,  grave  of,  250. 
Potamogeton  gramineum,  536. 
Potash  and  soda,  213. 

Potentilla  argentea,  450. 

- rupestris,  627. 

Potter,  architect,  154. 

— ,  Rev.  J.  C.,  489. 
Pounderling,  Sir  R.,311.  565. 
Powel,  Sir  A.,  11. 

- - ,  Thos.,  102. 

Powels,  seat  of  the,  442. 

- - of  Castle  Madog,  102. 

- - ,  monuments  to,  322. 

- of  Llandeilo  Cresseny,  19. 

Powel,  Dr.  D.,  549. 

- - ,  J.,  94. 

- - ,  M.,  106. 

- ,  Rev.  Rees,  94. 

- ,  Vasavor,  173. 

- ,  W.  E.  of  Nanteos,  33.  617 

- ,  I.  H.,  106. 


Powis,  Earl  of,  135. 315.  371.  400. 

- Castle,  400.  450. 

_  X.,  197. 

Powys,  Hon.  W.,  399. 

Poyer,  Colonel,  189.  490. 
Poyston,  284. 

Pratt,  B.,  470. 

Precelly  Mountain,  185.  479. 
Prediction,  fulfilment  of  a,  221. 
Prendergast,  283.  426. 
Prestattyn,  310. 

Presteign,  514. 

Preston  Montford,  631. 

Price,  D.,  94. 

- ,  G.,  184. 

- ,  J.,  59.  500. 

- ,  Miss,  361. 

- ,  Nicholas,  166. 

- ,  R.,  190. 

- ,  R.  W.,  47. 

- ,  Rev.  R.,  259. 

- ,  Richard,  M.  P.,  518. 

- ,  Sir  Uvedale,  25.  296. 

- ,  Sir  Robert,  25. 

- ,  Thelwall,  558. 

- ,  Thomas,  360. 

Priestholme,  74.  77.  351.  353. 
Priory,  471. 

Priory-Pill,  585. 

Priory,  Brecon,  93. 

Pritchard,  Rhys,  453. 

- ,  Rev.  R.,  345. 

Prix  and  Priory  Pill,  426. 

Proby  Park,  240. 

Progeny,  remarkable,  212. 
Prunus  padus,  430. 

Pryce,  Barringon,  287. 

- ,  Rev.  J.,  438. 

Prys,  Rev.  Ed.,  408. 

Pryse,  Pryse,  M.  P.,  27.  30.  533. 

- ,  Sir  John,  282.  484. 

Pryses,  monuments  of,  322.  483. 
Psalms,  metrical  translation  of, 
408. 

Pwll,  Caradog,  619. 

Pwll-ddu,  599. 

Pwll-glas,  30. 

Pwll-heli,  90. 

Pwll-y-gelanedd,  50. 

Pyle,  228.  519. 

- Priory,  426. 

Pyrus  hybrida,  366. 

- aria,  627. 


Q. 

Quartz,  amorphous,  371. 

- ,  compact,  46.  56. 

- crystals,  79.  369.  640. 

- ,  granular,  46. 

Queen  of  the  lake,  156. 
Quellyns,  82. 

Quentin,  Robt.  St.,  223. 
Quin,  Hon.  H.  W.  W.,  588. 


R. 

Radnor,  New,  520. 

- ,  Old,  521. 

- Forest,  521 . 

Ragland,  19.  522. 

Railway,  Taff-Vale,  126. 

^ - .,  Llanelly,  354. 

Ralph  Beneger,  492. 

Ramas,  583. 

Ramsey  Island,  578. 
Randles,  E.,  musician,  634. 
Ranulph,  19.  306. 
Ranunculus  acris,  329. 

- hederaceus,  151. 

- parviflorus,  302. 

Rasp,  mineralogist,  285. 
Rats,  578. 

Raven-fall,  602. 

Rawlins,  Bishop,  98.  496. 
Redbrook,  645. 

Redemption,  a  work  on,  378. 
Red-court  House,  451. 


Redwall,  286. 

Rees,  Abraham,  D.  D.,  139.  450. 

- ,  Rev.  Rice,  316. 

- ,  Rev.  W.  Jenkins,  316. 

Register,  ancient,  310. 

Reifel,  triple-peaked,  158. 
Reinallt  ap  Gryffydd,  432. 
Rennal’s  Cave,  228. 

Repton,  designs  of,  25. 

Reynolds,  J.,  415. 

Rhaiady'r,  529. 

Rhaiadyr,  the,  378. 
Rhaiadyr-arian,  241. 
Rhaiadyr-cwm,  257. 
Rhaiadyr-cwmwyd,  220. 
Rhaiadyr-ddu,  375.  409.  602, 
Rhaiadyr-dyfnant,  258. 
Rhaiadyr-gias-cwm,  498. 
Rhaiadyr-helygog,  374. 
Rhaiadyr-losgad,  257.  (?) 
Rhaiadyr-mawr,  1. 
Rhaiadyr-oerant,  258. 
Rhaiadyr-riske,  393. 
Rhaiadyr-y-graig-llwyd,  256. 

381.  383.  498. 
Rhaiadyr-y-fuwch,  257. 
Rhaiadyr-y-wenol,  178.  382.  498. 
Rhain  Dremrudd,  102. 

Rhamnus  catharticus,  243. 
Rhath,  284.  288. 

Rhiw,  89.  560. 

Rhiwedog,  50. 

Rhiwlas,  47.  193. 

Rhiw-waedog,  373. 
Rhiw-y-glyder,  177. 
Rhiw-yr-Ader,  141.  344. 
Rhos-Crowther,  492. 
Rhos-ddiarbed,  388.  484, 
Rhos-ddu,  242. 

Rhos-ferig,  121. 

Rhos-fynach,  352. 
Rhos-haminiog,  6. 

Rhos-market,  427. 

Rhos-nant,  399. 

Rhosson,  577. 

Rhug,  192.  220.  557. 

Rhun  Dremrudd,  419. 
Rhyddarch  ab  levan  Llwyd,  30. 

- ap  Caradog,  261.  321. 

- ap  Tudor,  1-39. 

Rhyddings,  596. 

Rhyddlan,  555,  565. 

- fair,  382. 

- Marsh,  22.  555. 

Rhyd-fendigaid,  276. 
Rhyd-fechan,  30. 
Rhyd-hir-uchaf,  30. 
Rhyd-Marsh,  310. 

Rhyd-oldog,  533. 

Rhyd-Owain,  317.  467. 
Rhyd-Sarn,  128. 

Rhyd-y-blew,  24. 

Rhyd-y-bont,  302. 
Rhyd-y-gul-gwyn,  556. 
Rhyd-y-gof-isaf,  321. 
Rhyd-y-pandy,  9. 
Rhyd-y-pennau,  406. 

Rhyl,  537. 

Rhys  ap  Gryffydd,2S.529.572.618. 
Rhys  ap  Llewellyn  ap  Hwlkin, 
270. 

- ap  Owain,  321. 

- ap  Tew  Dwr,  or  Theodor, 

141.  341.  401.  505. 

- - ap  Thomas,  Sir,  139.  186. 

341.  452.  496.  583. 

- Coch-o’r-Eryri,  176. 

- Fychan,  24.  163. 

- Grug,  572. 

- - Goch  Eryri,  84. 

- Meredydd,  389. 

- Pritchard,  345. 

- -  Vawr  ab  Meredydd,  193. 

Ribes  grossularia,  242. 

- uva  crispa,  151.  242. 

Rice,  Hon.  Frances  Rice,  339. 
Richard  II.  betrayed,  352. 

- ,  Edward,  28. 

Richard’s  Castle,  517. 


INDEX 


Richards,  Lord  Chief  Baron,  1 
374. 

- ,  Ed.,  Welsh  critic,  619. 

Richelieu,  W.  de,  586. 

Rickeston,  266. 

Ricketts,  T.  B.,  516. 

Rivers,  banks  of,  8. 

Road,  ancient,  Cat’s  Ash,  577. 
Roath,  Cardiff,  126. 

Roberts,  Mary,  64. 

- ,  Owen,  77. 

- ,  Rev.  Peter,  369. 

Robeston  Hall,  290. 

Wathen,  452. 

Robin  Ddd,  bard,  171. 

Roche’s  Castle,  581. 

Roche,  Mr.  584. 

Rock  House,  487. 
Rocking-stones,  see  Maensigyl. 
Rocklands,  545. 

Rocks,  composition  of,  46. 

Rodd,  T.,  94. 

Rodelaiit,  R.  de,  536. 

Roderig  Mwynog,  57. 

Rodney,  Lord,  399.  357. 

- ,  Hon.  W.,  13. 

Rofts,  the,  635. 

Rolben,  16. 

Rolrict,  499. 

Roman  altar,  482. 

- amphitheatre,  133. 

- arx  speculatoria,  108.  110. 

133. 

- aqueduct,  367. 

- bath,  108. 

- bracelets,  40. 

- bricks,  484. 

- bullse,  268. 

- camps,  13. 18.  100—128.  131. 

136.  140.  150,  151.  156.  264. 
285.  638.  How  distinguished, 
346. 

- castra  tertiata,  167. 

- - -  causeway,  63.  388.514. 

- coins,  108.  144.  171.  153. 

277,  278.  318,  319.  360.  370. 
403,  404.  491. 

- hbulffi,  268. 

- hypocausts,  637. 

- inscriptions,  18.  52. 108.  137. 

264.  319.  346.  414.  478.482.  519. 
576.  625. 

- lamps,  215. 

- - miliary,  114.  403. 

-  mines,  308.  349.  397. 

—  pavement,  167. 

- porcelain,  215.  318. 

- roads,  1.50.  286.  318.  323. 

346.  349.  610.  Vide  Sarn 
and  Via. 

- shaft  and  capital,  168. 

- shield,  215. 

- smelting  works,  163. 

- stations,  18.  576. 

- street,  576. 

- stylus,  268. 

- terminus,  132. 

- tomb,  .597. 

- tools,  397. 

- urns,  215. 

- utensils,  35.  319. 

—  vases,  215. 

- villa,  285. 

- walls,  151. 

Romantic,  instance  of  the,  298. 
Romilly,  Sir  S.  and  Lady,  516. 
Rooke,  G.,  645. 

Roper,  C.  B.  T.,  637. 

Rosa  spinosissima,  151.  216.  351. 
397. 

Rosamond,  Fair,  295. 

Rose  Castle,  426. 

Ross,  H.  W.,  545. 

Ross,  537. 

Rotch,  Mr.,  425. 

Rotherwas,  647. 

Rotbollia  incurvata,  536. 

Round  table,  Arthur’s,  133. 
Routes  of  Tourists,  650. 


Row  Common,  565. 

Rowland,  Rev.  Dan.,  9. 
Rowlands,  Rev.  H.,  463. 

Rows,  family  of,  493. 

Rowton  Castle,  399. 

Ruabon,  548. 

Rual,  430. 

Rubex  saxatilis,  216.  329.  560. 
Rubia  peregrina,  216. 

Rubus  cresius,  276.  413.  559. 

- chamEeraorus,  151.  220.  246. 

- idEeus,  276.  380. 

Rudd,  Rev.  R.,  497. 

Rudhalls,  Gen.  W.,539. 

Ruin,  largest  in  Britain,  162. 
Rumex  digynus,  176.  252.  329. 

- marit.,  310. 

Rumney  Church,  127. 

- furnaces,  21. 

Rupe,  Adam  de,  426.  585. 
Ruperra,  127.  472. 

Ruppia  maritima,  79.  408.  463. 
603. 

Ruthin,  552. 

Rutzen,  Baron  de,  427.452. 
Ryewallis,  Abbot,  404.  • 


S. 


Sabella  tubiformis,  Adfyw,  580. 
607. 

Saint  Asaph,  562. 

- Afan  Buallt,  33. 

- Botolph,  584. 

- Briavel’s,  443. 

- Briavel’s  Castle,  645. 

- Bride’s  Bay,  290. 

- Bride’s  Hill,  584. 

- Bride’s  major,  588. 

- Clare,  142.  401.  479. 

- David’s,  567. 

- David’s  Head,  577. 

- Dogwell,  or  Dogfael,  285. 

- Donats,  585. 

- Elian’s  Point,  299. 

- Florence,  497. 

-  George’s,  226. 

— —  Ishmael’s,  584. 

- John’s  Mount,  Br.  99. 

- Lythan’s  Down,  128. 

- Leonard’s  Rathe,  290. 

-  Mellon’s, 472. 

- Nicholas,  263. 

- Petrox,  496. 

— -  Pierre,  481. 

-  Quintin’s  castle,  228. 

Saith  Maachog,  557. 

Salicornia  herbacea,  65.  216.  269. 
351. 

Salix  herbacea,  330. 

Salmon,  142.  183.  622. 

Salusbury,  Countess  of,  544.  643. 

- ,  Capt.,  222. 

- ,  Col.  W.,  236. 

- ,  J.,  237.  308. 

- ,  R.,  168. 

- ,  Sir  T.  R..  169. 

- ,  Sir  R.  202. 

Salusburys,  portraits  of,  239. 
Salvia  Verbenaca,  119.  216.  314. 
351.536. 

Sambucus  ebulus,  259.  278. 
Samolus  valerandi,  151. 
Samwell,  David,  240. 

Sanctuary,  the,  402.  598. 

Sands,  Lavan,  1. 

Sandstone,  367- 
Sanicula  Europa,  119. 

Saponaria  officinalis,  307. 
Sarnau,  611. 

Sarn  Badrig,  65. 

Sarn  Cynfelin,  34. 

Sarn  Helen,  100.  110.  143.  255. 

264.  323. 

Sarn  Swsan,  388. 

Sarn-yr-avanc, 335. 

Satyrium  viride,  430. 

X  X 


665 

Savage  scenery,  instance  of,  297. 
Savery,  Capt.,  527. 

Sawyl,557. 

Saxa  sedilia,  366. 

Saxifraga  azoides,  329. 

- caespitosa,  327. 

- granulata,  242. 

- nivalis,  177.  329.  413.  560. 

• - oppositifolium,  329. 

—  palmata,  327. 

- - stellaris,  2.  254.  311.  329. 

- tridactylites,  216. 

Saxon  alphabet,  491. 

- pillars,  339.  519. 

- ,  specimens  of,  474.  589. 

Scenery,  remarkable,  8.  123.  126. 

205.  498.  502.  569. 

Schist,  chloritic,  301. 

Schoenus  compressus,  310. 

- nigricans,  329.  386. 

School,  a  circulating,  89. 

Scilla  verna,  27.  216. 

Scilly,  Isle  of,  130. 

Scirpus  lacustris,  386. 

- maritimus,  310. 

- palustris,  386. 

Scleranthus  perennis,  221. 
Scolopendrum  vulgare,560. 
ScorisD,  ancient  lead,  360. 

Scott,  Walter,  .539. 

Scourdeld,  W.  H.,  287. 
Scourfields,  family  of,  287. 
Screens,  ancient,  6.  32,  33.  473. 
521. 

Screnfrith  Castle,  440. 
Scrophularia  venialis,  216. 
Scudamore  Hill,  441. 

- ,  family  of,  641.  647. 

Sculpture,  ancient,  572.  585. 
Sculptures  by  Flaxman,  94.  — 
Nollekins,  548.  —  Roubiliac, 
633.  —  Rysbrack,  548.  —  Ter- 
nouth,  563. — Thomas,  94. — 
Tyley,  94.  —  Westmacott,  69. 
334,  635. 

Sea,  ravages  of,  584.  609. 
Sea-lock,  126. 

Sealey-Ham,  286. 

Sedum  Anglicum,  151.  216. 

—  reflexum,  2. 

- rupestre,  3.  325.  327.  560. 

627. 

- sexangulare,  151. 

- telephium,  151.  210.  254. 

Seethrog- House,  235. 

Segontium,  144.  151. 

Segrwyd,  242. 

Seiriol,  St.,  74. 

Sellack,  642. 

Selly  Hall,  315 
Senecio  syl  vatic  us,  622. 

- -  tenuifolius,  242.  307. 

Sengenneth  Castle,  423. 

Serpent,  fabulous  account  of, 
308. 

Serpentine,  91.  176. 

Serratula  alpinum,  329. 

- latifolium,  329. 

Severn,  course  of,  386.  485. 

- ,  J.  C.,  500. 

Sewen,  116. 

Shells,  44.  596.  603.  607. 
Sherbornes,  492. 

Shields,  ancient,  7.  79. 

Shipley,  Dean,  563. 

Shire  Newtown,  528. 

Shobden  Court,  .517. 
Shrawardine,  399. 

Shrewsbury,  399.583. 
Schuckforth,  D.,  557. 

Siddons,  Mrs.,  96. 

Signal-staff,  351. 

Silene  acaulis,  151.  325. 

- Anglica,  151. 

- maritima,  151.  216.  351 

- nutans,  216. 

Silurian  princes,  33. 

Sirhowy  Works,  21. 

Sison  verticillatum,  128. 


6*66 


INDEX. 


Sisymbrium  monense,  216.  _ 
.Sisymbrium  tenuifolium,  278. 
Skeffington,  53. 

Skeletons,  397. 

Skerries  I.ighthouse,  39. 

Sketch,  an  interesting,  204. 
Sketty  Hall,  599. 

Skiborry,  315. 

Skokham,  583. 

- Islet,  428. 

Skomar,  428.  584. 

Skreen,  297. 

Skyrme,  Francis,  453. 

Skyrrid,  ascent  of,  15. 
Skyrrid-fach,  16.., 
Skyrrid-mawr,  18.  523. 

Slate,  mode  of  obtaining,  330. 

335.  371. 

- ,  apparatus  for  preparing, 

336. 

Slough,  a  singular,  357. 

Slwch,  Brec.,  97. 

Sraaragdite,  521. 

Smith,  C.  H.,  457. 

- ,  T.  A.,326. 

- &  Co.,  595. 

Smurton,  285. 

Snelson,  W.,  635. 

Snowdon,  80.  559. 

- ,  excursions  to,  80.  158. 

- ■,  inhabitants  of,  561. 

- ,  fine  view  of,  565. 

Society,  Gwyneddigion,  171. 

- ,  Cymmrodorion,  172. 

Sodston  House,  452. 

Solen  genus,  species  of,  400. 

- ensis,  607. 

Solers,  family  of,  106. 

Solfach,  290.  580. 

Solidago  virgaurea,  314. 

Sound,  remarkable  interruption 
of,  323. 

South,  Dr.,  378. 

Sparganiura  natans,  325, 326. 

- simplex,  326. 

Sparrow,  W.  W.,  72. 

Spencer,  Lord,  425. 

Spenser,  an  error  of,  374.  391. 
Spergula  subulata,  238. 243. 

- nodosa,  151. 

Sphagnum  alpinura,  254.  560. 
Sphsca  relata  and  oculata,  607. 
Spirea  filipendula,  216.351. 
Springs,  121,  122.  141.  156.  285. 

See  Fynnon. 

Spudder  Bridge,  314. 
Spytty-Evan,  381. 

Stachys  arvensis,  151. 

Stackpool  Court,  495. 

Stacks,  N.  and  S.,  300.  494. 
Stainton,  427. 

Stalagmite,  32. 

Stanley,  Sir  T.,  40.  304. 
Stanhope,  Sir  E.  F.  S.,  642. 
Stapleton  Castle,  516. 

Statice  arraeria,  27.  269. 

- reticulata,  307. 

Steatite,  521. 

Steddfa-gareg,  387. 

Steele,  Sir  R.,  140. 

Stella ria  nemorum,  567. 
Stembridge,  493. 

Stephen,  bridge  erected  by,  317. 
Stephens,  Mrs.,  517. 

Stepney,  Sir  J.,  354. 

Stepneys,  family  of,  283. 

_ ,  J.  S.,  581- 

- T.  609. 

Stones,  monumental,  112.  See 
Maen. 

Strachy,  355. 

Stradling,  Chancellor,  572. 

- ,  Sir  E.,  585. 

Stradmore,  183.  465. 
Strangeways,  Mrs.,  360. 

Street,  399. 

Streetland,  285. 

Striguel  Castle,  359. 

Strongbow,  Gilbert,  23. 


Structure,  ecclesiastical,  most 
magnificent  in  Wales,  85. 
Strawberries,  Elton,  564. 

Stuart,  house  of,  303. 

Stukeley,  Dr.,  567. 

Sublime,  instance  of  the,  502. 
Subterranean  gallery,  154. 
Subularia  aquatica,  177. 
Sudbrook  encampment,  170.480. 

- Chapel,  481 . 

Suetonius  Paulinus,  41. 
Sugar-loaf,  ascent  of,  14.  523. 
Superstition  instanced,  474. 
Swansea,  590. 

Swertia  perennis,  560. 

Swift,  Dean,  and  Rev.  T.,  545. 
Swinnerton,  438. 

Swynemore,  J.  de,  606. 
Sycamore,  peculiarity  of,  306. 
Sychden,  Upper,  Middle,  and 
Lower,  433.  489. 

Sychnant,  216. 

- ,  chasm  of,  4. 

Symmons,  Margaret,  285. 

- ,  family  of,  286. 

- ,  Yatt,  544.  644.  647. 

Sytsylt  ap  Dyfnwald,  11. 
Sympuvium,  111. 


T. 

Taddy,  Serjeant,  19. 
Tafarn-y-bwlch,  185.  287. 
Tafarn-dowyrch,  369. 
Tafarn-fach,  32. 

Tafarn.newydd,  412. 
Tafarn-spite,  30.  610. 

Taibach,  416. 

Talach-ddh,  103. 

Talbot,  C.  R.  M.,  414.  519. 

- ,  Lord,  223. 

- ,  Sir  R.,  544. 

- ,  T.  Mansell,  415.  597. 

- ,  family  of,  540. 

Talgarth,  105.  233.  616. 

Taliesin,  31.  191.  217- 
Taliaris,  342. 

Talley,  Monastery  of,  342. 

- Church,  318. 

Tal-sarn,  or  Tal-y-sarn,  8.  321. 
TaUy-bont,  32.  323.  334.  406. 
Tal-y-gareg,  404. 

TaUy-foel,  463. 

Tal-y-fynnonau,  249. 
Tal-y-llychan,  342. 

Tal-y.llyn,  251.323. 

- ,  Vale  of,  615. 

Tanat,  river,  372. 
Tan-ben-y-gefn,  161. 
Tan-y-fordd,  7. 

Tan-y-bwlch,  369.  601. 
Tan-yr-allt,  64. 

Tapestry,  ancient,  198.  628. 
Taste,  impure,  332.  376. 

Tawe,  source  of  the,  113. 

- ,  Yale  of,  339,  340. 

Taylor,  J.  N.,  465. 

Tegfan,  St,  263. 

Teifi,  attractions  of  the,  314. 
Teilo,  St.,  331.  339.  568. 

Telford,  T.,  engineer,  203.  213. 
366. 

Tellina  depressa,  400.  607. 

- fabula,  400.  607. 

- squalida,  400.  607. 

Temple  Bar,  30. 

- ,  druid,  287. 

Temples,  druidic,  7.  338.  349. 
Templeton,  189. 

Temperance  instanced,  302.  588. 
Tenby,  603. 

Teredo  Nivalis,  181. 

Testament,  first  Welsh  New, 
569. 

Tewdwr,  Rhys  ap,  455.  613.  See 
Rhys. 

Thalictrum  minus,  56.  176.  216. 
252.  254.  311.  329. 


Thelwall,  Dr.  C.,  558. 

— ,  John,  556.  558. 

- ,  Sir  Eubule,  555. 

Thistle  Boon,  599. 

Thlaspi  alpestre,  380, 

- hirtum,  560. 

Thomas,  sculptor,  94. 

- ,  Rees  Goring,  354. 

- ,  Sir  William  ap,  525. 

- ,  Thomas,  372. 

Thomson,  J.  D.,  20. 

— — ,  the  poet,  223. 

Thorn  Cliffs,  646. 

- Hill,  beauties  of,  127* 

Thurston,  Capt.,  616. 

Thymus  acinos,  238. 

Tiers  Cross,  290. 

Timber-shoot,  447. 

Tintern  Abbey,  444. 
Tintern-parva,  444. 
Tir-y-mynach,  323. 

Toadstown,  208. 

Todeny,  Ralph  de,  295. 
Tomenydd,  or  tombs,  290. 
333. 

Tomen-Llanio,  143.  149.  319. 
Tomen-beth-Ugre,  486. 
Tomen-llas,  32. 

Tomen- Saint- Ffraid,  529. 
Tomen-y-fardre,  370. 

Tomen.  y-mur,  251.  255. 
Tomen-y-Rhodwydd,  369. 
Torgodi,  or  Savelian  char,  153. 
Tormentilla  reptans,  380. 
Torques,  a  golden,  278. 

Torthau,  cerniogau,  263. 
Touchett,  Counsellor,  9. 
Tournament,  186. 

Tours,  Martin  de,  266.  475. 
Tower,  430. 

- ,  Llangollen,  362. 

Towyn,  614. 

Towyn-y-badau,  263. 
Towyn-y-capel,  302. 
Traeth-bychan,  256.  499. 
Traethgoch,  45.  75. 

- ,  llavan,  358. 

- ,  mawr,  geology  of,  330. 

- ,  yr-awr-garth,  465. 

Trams  at  Blaenavon,  12. 
Trawscoed  Park,  28. 
Trawsfynnydd,  248.  255. 
Trebarried,  103. 

Tre-bordd,  59. 

Tre-castle,  113.  345. 

Tre-cwm,  286. 

Tredegar  Park,  128. 

- iron-works,  21. 

Tre-deg-erw,  475. 

Tre-derwen  Hall,  399. 
Tre-donoch,  625. 

Tre-dwsten,  233. 

Trefalen  Hall,  635. 

Tref-Asser,  263. 

Tref-Culhwch,  263. 
Tref-Ednyfed,  264. 

Tref-garn,  284. 

Tref-garn  Rocks,  285. 
Tref-figan,  coffins  at,  265. 
Pref-filan,  9.  321. 

Tref  friw,  213. 

Tre.f,  Den.,  3.  379.  381. 

Tref-Seri  Castle,  234. 
Tref-Trahern,  99. 
Tref-y-clawdd.  See  Knighton. 
Tref-fynnon.  See  Holywdl. 
Tre- Gunter,  94.  104 
Tre-gare,  441. 

Tre-ganwy,  214. 

Tre-garnedd,  61. 

Tregaron,  616. 

Tre-goed,  298. 

Tre-llwyn,  497. 

Trellyfan,  208. 

Tre-Madoc,  620. 

Tre-maen,  SO. 

Tre-Mostyn,  309. 

Tre-Mostyn,  Cliff  at,  309. 
Tref-Nannau,  418. 


INDEX 


667 


Tre-Owen,  438.  442. 

Tre-’r-ddol,  406. 

Tre-’r-dryws,  161. 
Tre-’r-drwr-bach,  161. 
Tre-’r.ufFydd,  208. 

Tre-tower,  17.  233.  234. 
Tre-uddin,  397. 

Trevecca,  104. 

Trevor,  Bp.  John,  361.  563. 

- Hall,  366. 

- ,  Sir  John,  364.  638. 

- Tudor,  364.  366.  582. 

Trevors,  43k 

- of  Trefalin,  635. 

Tre-wern-waelod,  477. 
Tre-’r-Gastell,  73. 

Trewyn,  13. 

Tre-y-caerau,  86. 

Tre-beirdd,  6^9. 
Tri-crug-Aeron,  8. 

Tri-faen,  179.  327.  337. 

Trifolium  glomeratum,  238.  243. 
Triglochin  maritimum,  27.  151. 
Trilobites,  120. 

Trillo’s  Chapel,  352. 

Triticum  repens,  619. 
Trost-nant,  511. 

Trout,  monocular,  327. 
Trygyfylchi  Rocks,  560. 
Trysclwyn,  35. 

Tucker,  Dr.  Joseph,  400. 

- ,  family  of,  286. 

- ,  W.  E.,  286. 

Ta-dda,  443. 

Tudor,  Catherine,  241. 

- ,  Edmon,  572. 

- ,  Lloyd,  418. 

Tudors  of  Pen-mynydd,  333. 
Tudwr,  Owain,  352. 

Tully,  Bishop,  264.  606. 

Tumuli,  8.  33.  311.  318.  440. 

- ,  examinations  of,  264.  286. 

288.  369.  610. 

Tunnel,  immense,  12. 

Turdus  torquatus,  329. 

Turritis  hirsuta,  243. 

Twisleton,  G.,  85. 

Twl-ddu,  176.  327.  560. 

Twm  Barlwm,  472. 
Twrn-Cadifor,  611. 

Twrog,  St.,  40L 
Tyberri,  615. 

Tycam,  467. 

Ty-Ddewi.  See  St.  David. 
Tydecho,  St.,  411. 

Ty-ddb,  330. 

Tyddyn  Tydyr,  191. 
Tyddyn-uchaf,  241. 

Tyfry,  72. 

Ty-glyn,  8. 

Tygwy,  St.,  180. 

Tygroes  Penmaen,  353. 

Ty-hir,  242. 

Ty-isaf,  383. 

Ty-mawr,  8.  245. 

Ty-newydd,  30. 

Ty-’n-Cornel,  32. 

Tynte,  Colonel,  472. 

Ty-’n-’twll,  24k 
Tyn-y-caeau,  221.  228. 
Tyn-y-groes,  383. 

Tyn  y-pistyll,  369. 

Tyn-y.rh6s,  245. 

Tyrrau-mawr,  253. 

Tyrden,  242. 

Tyrwhitt,  F.,  585. 

Tyssilio,  St.,  435.  465. 

Tyssul,  St,  466. 

Tythegstone,  519. 

Ty-wyn,  Abergele,  535. 


U. 

Uch  Evan,  Margaret,  156. 
Uchtred,  sons  of,  389. 
Ugre,  grave  of,  486. 
Ultra-pontem,  136. 


Unyr  ab  Morddig,  556. 

Up  Rossal,  399. 

Upton,  290. 

Urban,  Bp.,  331. 

Urbs  legionum  super  Oscam, 
568. 

Urian  Reged,  343. 

Urns,  discovery  of,  184. 

UsK,  622. 

- ,  source  of  the,  345. 

- ,  characteristics  of,  346. 

- ,  Vale  of,  17.  137. 

Uspont,  Robert,  418. 


V. 

Vaccinium  myrtillus,  276. 

- oxycoccus,  151. 

- uliginosum,  380. 

- vitis-idaea,  254. 

Vaenor  Park,  630. 

Vaga  Cottage,  546. 

Vag-vawr,  244. 

Vale  and  valley,  distinction  of, 
137. 

Vale  Crucis,  364. 

- of  Clwyd,  240. 

Valence,  William  de,  605. 

Vales,  Welsh  and  English,  com¬ 
pared,  360. 

Van,  17. 

Vandyke,  186.430. 

Vanne,  C.,  169. 

Varis,  station  of,  566. 

Varus,  Posthumus,  482. 

Vases,  beautiful,  415. 

Vaughan,  Bp.,  53.  453,  573.  277. 

- ,  Col.,  615.  254.277. 

- ,  Col.  G.  H.,  192. 

— -,  Harry,  9. 

- ,  J.,  465. 

- ,  Margaret,  380. 

- ,  Mrs.  Mary,  360. 

- ,  Rowland,  49.  380. 

- ,  Sir  Roger,  11.  234. 

- ,  Sir  R.  W.,  374.  498. 

- ,  Walter,  606. 

- ,  W.,  544. 

- ,  W.,  artist,  379. 

Vaughans,  Traewn,  286. 

- of  Golden  Grove,  340. 

- of  Dunraven,  58k 

- of  Courtfield,  643  . 

Velindre,  Lampeter,  9.321. 

- ,  Newport,  Pern.,  479. 

Venni  Vach,  96. 

Venta  Silurum,  See  Coerwent. 
Verbena  officinalis,  259. 

Vernon,  Lord,  502. 597. 

Veronica  hybrida,  560. 

- montana,  242.  430. 

- spicata,  3.  311. 

Vessel,  antique,  465. 

Via  Julia,  100.  168.  482.576,577. 
Vickers,  V.,  631. 

Victoria  Iron-works,  20. 
Victorious,  son  of,  107. 

Victory,  Alleluiatic,  431. 

Views,  striking,  204.  405.  515. 
561. 

Vinca  minor,  564. 

Viola  alpina,  329. 

- lutea,  405. 

Vitis-idsea,  386 
Volcanic  phenomena,  309. 
Voluta  tornatilis,  607. 

Vortigern,  80.  86.  5£9-  561. 
Vychan,  Ednyfed,  612. 

- ,  Morris,  246. 

Vyrnwy,  river,  396.  418. 


W. 

Waddington,  512.  529. 
- ,  B.,  442.  625. 


Wakes,  evils  of,  540. 

Walbec,  Moll,  297. 

WalbeofFs,  family  of,  99.  106. 
Walcot,  486. 

- House,  315. 

Walcots  of  Builth,  120. 

Wale,  Walter  de,  454. 

Walford  and  Court,  .540. 
Wallingford,  Brian  de,  11. 
W^allis,  Col.  Bailey,  468. 

Wails,  Roman  mode  of  erecting, 
151. 

Walsh  am.  Sir  J.,  516. 

Walter,  Architect,  571. 

- de  Mannie,  46. 

- ,  Lucy,  427. 

- ,  Sir  Richard,  427. 

Walton,  4.54. 

Wapley  Camj),  view  from,  515. 
Wardle,  C.  L.,  638. 

- ,  Col.,  90. 

Warre,  J.  W.,  545. 

Warren,  30. 

- ,  Bp.,  54. 

- ,  John,  Earl,  632. 

—  ,  the,  358.  " 

War  ton,  Robert,  430. 

Wash,  the,  Pemb.,  494. 

Water,  momentum  of,  398. 
Water-break-its-neck,  521. 
Waterfalls  in  the  vicinity  of 
Dolgelly,  247.  See  Pistyll. 
Watkins,  Mrs.  P.,  94. 

— -  J.  of  Tregoed,  294. 

Watt’s  Dike,  306. 

Waun  Govilon,  20. 

Webb  of  Llanwern,  540. 

Well,  an  immolating,  242. 

- ,  Caradog’s,  427. 

- ,  Collwyn,  426.  519. 

- ,  Goblin,  235. 

- ,  Helen’s,  144. 

- ,  Llandegle,  522. 

- ,  Nell’s  Point,  128. 

- ,  St.  Degmen’s,  492.  See 

Fynnon. 

Wellington,  Mr.,  295. 

Wells.  See  Fynnon. 

Welsh  gentry,  ancient  seats,  279. 
Welshpool,  626. 

Wen-allt,  478. 

Went-loog  level,  127. 

Wentwood,  forest  of,  168.  359. 
Weppra  Hall,  489. 

Werfill  Brook,  30. 

Wern-ddu,  11. 

Westfaling,  T.,  539. 
Westminster,  Marquess  of,  636. 
Wyfair,  312. 

Wild-goose  race,  428. 
Whitchurch,  54k  566. 

White,  effect  of,  on  buildings, 
139. 

- ,  family  of,  606. 

Whitebrook,  443. 

White  Castle,  442. 

W’hiteford,  310. 

White  House,  the,  19. 
Whitesides,  H.,  579. 
Whitethorne  Hill,  130. 

Whitford  Point,  600. 

Whitland,  400. 

- Abbey,  401. 

Whitling,  Dr.  C.,  539. 

Whyte,  family  of,  73. 

Wihenoc,  Lord,  435. 

Wilkes,  J.,  lines  by,  49. 

Wilkins,  Walter,  391.  See  Win- 
ter* 

Wilkinson,  J.,  431.  552.  636. 
William  ap  Howel,  62. 

- de  Londre,  5lk 

Williams,  Martyn,  418. 

- ,  Archbishop,  212.  334. 

- - ,  Col.,  318. 

- ,D.,  443. 

- ,  Dr.  D.,  310. 

- ,  Dr.  Zachary,  427. 

- ,  Dr.  W.,  223. 


668 


INDEX 


Williams,  Edward,  587. 

- ,  Edward,  the  poet,  227 

- ,  Jane,  75. 

- ,  J.  H.,  442. 

- ,  Rev.  R.,  551. 

- ,  Lady,  72. 

- ,  Parry,  97. 

- ,  Penry,  113. 

- ,  Philip,  99. 

- ,  Philip  and  Alicia,  482. 

- ,  Rev.  W.,  D  D.,  223. 

- ,  Richard,  370.  384, 

- ,  Sir  C.  H  ,  16.  132.  625. 

- ,  Sir  Edward,  296. 

- ,  Sir  J.  H  ,  .342. 

- ,  Sir  J.,  564. 

- ,  Sir  R  ,  84. 

- ,  Sir  Trevor,  526. 

- ,  William,  72  223.  592. 

- ,  Watkin,  432. 

Williamses  of  Parc..ar.Yrfon,121. 

- ,  pedigree  of,  457. 

Willoughby  D’Eresby,  Lord, 
218.  380.  498. 

Wilsford,  Sir  T.,  74. 

Wilson,  R.,  artist,  126.  430,  433. 
Wilton,  547. 

- Castle,  540.  642. 

Winastow,  442. 

WindclifFe,  446. 

Winder,  Mrs.,  450.  630. 
Windhole,  the,  586, 

Windport,  478. 

Wingfield,  Col.  J.,  87.  399. 
Winifred,  St.,  239.  305.  381. 
Winter,  Walter  de,  99.  439. 
Wiston,  454. 

Wistons,  478. 

Withy  Bush,  Lodge,  284. 

Wnion,  source  of,  412. 

Wogan,  Sir  J.,  573. 

Wogans,  monuments  of,  288. 
454- 

Woldbury,  642. 

Wolf’s  Castle,  286. 

Wonders  of  Wales,  632. 

Wood,  Col.,  97.  105. 

- ,  Mrs.,  1.30. 

- ,  W.,  224. 

Woode,  epitaph  on  Owen,  303. 
Woodfield  Cottage,  514. 

Woodsia  hyperborea,  560. 
Woodstock,  288. 

Worcester,  first  Marquess,  526. 
— ,  second  Marquess,  527. 

- ,  first  Earl  of,  527. 

Works,  Bershara,  551. 

- ,  Blaenavon, 12. 

— ,  British  Iron  Company,  551. 


Works,  Dowlais,  21.  419. 

- ,  Ebbw  Vale,  20.  1) 

- ,  Gwendraeth,  595. 

- ,  Hirwaun,  165. 

- ,  Lanelly,  20. 

- ,  Lower  Redbrook,  645, 

- ,  Maesteg,  595. 

- ,  Melin  Gryffydd,  394. 

- ,  Nant-y-glo,  20. 

- ,  Pen-y-darran,  21. 

- ,  Pont-y-pool,  513. 

- ,  Rumney,  21. 

- ,  Sirhowy,  21. 

- ,  Tredegar,  21. 

- ,  Trostrey,  625. 

- ,  Victoria,  20. 

- ,  Ystal-y-fera,  595. 

- ,  Ynyscedwyn,  594. 

Worthington,  Dr.,  485.  378. 
Wrexham,  632. 

Wrig^ht, - ,290. 

Wrunstone,  528. 

Wyatt,  B.,  57.  72.  217. 

- ,  S.,  designs  by,  22.  57.  72. 

551.  550. 

Wyche  elm,  gigantic,  225. 
Wyche-tree  Bridge,  599. 

Wye,  the  river,  639.  646. 

- Cottage,  447. 

- Creek,  447. 

- Seal  House,  443. 

Wylyn,  Major,  555. 

W’ynastow  House,  438. 
Wyndhara,  F.,  588, 

Wynn,  Dame  Sarah,  379. 

- ,  G.,  638. 

- ,  Henry,  548. 

- ,  John,  244. 

- ,  John  ap  Robert,  432. 

- ,  Lady  R.,  549. 

- ,  Maurice,  241. 

- ,  first  Sir  W.  W.,  548. 

- ,  second  Sir  W.  W.  639. 

- ,  Sir  J.  and  Lady,  548. 

- ,  Sir  J.,  father  to  the  fore¬ 
going,  548. 

- ,  T.,  Bodfuan,  85. 

Wynne,  C.  W.  G.,  88. 

- ,  Dr.  W.,  430. 

- ,  E.,  76. 

- ,  John, 430. 

- ,  Mary,  380. 

- ,  R.  212. 

- ,  Sir  George,  432. 

- ,  Sirs  J.  and  R.,  498.  621. 

- ,  Sir  W.,  489. 

- ,  Watkin,  Edwards,  377. 

- ,  William,  53. 

- ,  family  of,  381. 


THE  END. 


London : 

Printed  by  A.  Spoitiswoode, 
Ncw-Strect-Squarc. 


Wynnes,  family  of,  380. 
Wyrriotts  of  Orielton,  491. 


Y. 

Yale,  Castle,  and  view  of,  369. 

-  Elihu,  633. 

Y-ben-glog,  56. 

Y-bron, 

Y-Gastell,  258.  ; 

Ychdryd,  271. 

Y-Clawdd-coch,  159. 
Y-ddeu-faen,  215. 

Yew-trees,  large,  411.  635. 
Y-felinwen,  302. 

Y-fynnon-fair,  565. 

Y-gaer-fawr,  7. 

Y-Gym-Wynas,  255. 

Y-meini  Hirion,  .562. 

Ynys  Hettws,  177- 
Ynyscedwyn  works,  594. 
Ynys-y-geryn,  4-58. 
Ynys-y-maen-gwyn,  66.  614.  . 
Ynys-y-moel-Rhoniaid,  39. 
Yorke,  S.,  551.  639. 

Ycude,  Thomas,  367. 

Yr-ala,  337. 

Yrfon,  scenery  of  the,  122. 
Yr.hfen-Gastell,  150. 
Yr-hen-llys,  239. 

Yr-Wyddfa,  159.  329. 

Ysbytty  Cenfaen,  509,  510. 
Ysbytty-Efan,  193. 
Ysbytty-Ystwith,  274. 

Ysgollion  duon,  56. 

Ysgwd  Gwlndis,  505. 
Ysgwd-Einon-Gam,  505. 

Ysgwd  river,  374.  505. 
Ystal-y-fera,  595. 

Ystrad,  319. 

Ystrad-Alun,  370. 

Ystrad-enny,  223. 

Ystrad-felltS.  458. 

Ystrad-flur,  618. 

Ystrad-ffin,  348.  389. 

Ystrad- Llanfihangel,  9. 
Ystrad-Meirig,  28.  276.  318.  619. 
Ystrad-Owen,  228. 
Ystrad-Teilo,  321. 
Ystrad-y-fodwg,  42-2. 

Ystwith,  scene  upon  the,  271. 
Ystym-Cegid,  499. 

Y-Vanner,  248. 


Z, 

Zannichellia  palustris,  151. 
Zeus  faber,  90. 


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